November 2017

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SOUTHWEST THE MAGAZINE

This is Jeff Zlotnik. / When we were kids, he screamed at me, bullied me, and made me feel small. Now he’s earning acclaim for teaching meditation and the art of compassion. / What changed? / eric steuer’s story begins on page 74. /

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For more than fifty years at the University of California San Diego, our students have discovered the logic of the nonsensical. In fact, it’s life’s oddities that continue to spark their insatiable curiosity to question. To create. To grow. And to continue nurturing that freewheeling curiosity, we must strive to become a true living-learning community. Together we can reenvision our campus to better meet the evolving needs of our students. From student housing and academic buildings to a new educational and cultural facility

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Promotion

DAT I N G  R E A L CO N N E C T I O N S

DATING ROI

Technology has made dating more complicated and impersonal. Hiring a matchmaker might be the smartest investment you could make in your personal life. At first, Larry Chiarelli, director at a tech start up, thought he was doing all he needed. Sign up on multiple dating websites. Meet lots of women. Eventually, the right one would come along – except she never did. So he decided to bring in the professionals and hired It’s Just Lunch. IJL’s matchmakers got to know him and his preferences. They selected his dates, arranged schedules, and even made the restaurant reservations. Dating 

became stress-free and fun. Larry was a practical guy and didn’t believe in love-at-first-sight, but that was until IJL introduced him to Ping.

so I could feel some breathing room. I needed to slow things down to speed them up. IJL fit that criteria perfectly for me.

What was your dating life like before joining It’s Just Lunch? Lawrence: Chaotic! I was meeting a lot of women but not the right women for me. Online dating was time consuming and stressful. I needed someone to help out, to relieve me of the dating busy work

Ping: I was very busy with work when I discovered IJL. I was seeing different people I mostly met through friends and by attending events. Online dating seemed so time consuming so I was never willing to invest what little time I had into something so hit and miss.

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 It's Just Lunch Clients LAWRENCE CHIARELLI Regional Sales Director: Tech start up EDUC: BS, Bloomsburg Univ INTERESTS: Golf, running, travel PING MA Owner of RollingPing:Custom Cakes EDUC: MS, Columbia Univ INTERESTS: Travel, wine, jogging with dog

I used to tell my friends: Who has time for online dating…browsing through profiles all night when I could be doing something else with my time." Why did you decide to join It’s Just Lunch? L: A good friend of mine mentioned that IJL may be a good resource for meeting women who were a better match for me. Plus, joining would let me get back some time in my life that was sorely lacking.

P: I fly frequently for work and for fun, and when I saw It’s Just Lunch in the airline magazine, it was as if the matchmaker was talking to me! One day after a particularly long flight and wanting to snuggle with someone and watch a movie, I decided it couldn't hurt to give it a try. What did you enjoy most about the It's Just Lunch process? L: Having someone doing all the work to select and schedule a date. It was like I had my own personal dating concierge to take care of all the details. All I had to do was be on time for my date and be myself. It really was a stress-free experience.

P: The stress-free experience! I had a professional matchmaker to select matches and set up restaurant reservations for me. All I needed to do was to show up and focus on getting to know my date.

What was it like working with the It's Just Lunch matchmakers? L: Easy and convenient. At the time the company I was working for was going through a merger so I was away from home quite a bit in all day meetings. I’d finish my day and there would be a

voicemail from my matchmaker telling me about my next match. I’d call back, get the details and run through my availability. The next thing I knew I was in front of an interesting woman having a great conversation. P: Stress-free and fun! Exactly what I needed because dating can be so frustrating. I always looked forward to meeting my next match.

Do you have any advice for singles who want to meet that special someone? L: I often ask my clients: Would you rather drive across the country in a Toyota Corolla or a BMW 5 series? They always say the 5 series. You get what you pay for. Investing in yourself and your future with someone special means investing in the right matchmaking service. For me that was It’s Just Lunch. P: Invest in your own happiness, it is always worth it. I never would have met Larry if I hadn’t joined It’s Just Lunch. It’s the best decision I've ever made.

IT’S JUST LUNCH SIGNATURE MATCHMAKING PROCESS: 1 Through a series of conversations, we get to know you and your relationship goals. 2 Your match is hand-selected and your date arranged. We’ll even make the restaurant reservations. 3 Meet your date face to face. 4 Call us with feedback after your date. 5 Put your membership on hold if sparks flew. (No sparks? No problem. We’ll get to work arranging your next match.)

The success of It’s Just Lunch is built on creating high quality matches in low pressure situations. In 26 years, they’ve set up millions of first dates. Make meeting someone special a priority. Get in touch at 800-8586526 or www.itsjustlunch.com.

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November 2017

64 Elevate Your Travel Plans

This year, our winter vacations are all about the highest highs and lowest lows, from Colorado’s snow-covered peaks to Death Valley’s stellar stargazing spots.

74 The Bully and the Buddhist

A former schoolyard bully, Jeff Zlotnik found a new identity through Buddhism. A classmate wonders why he changed— and if he remembers the pain he caused.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADAM CROWLEY

Branch out with a stay at the picturesque TreeHouse Point in Issaquah, Washington.

6 Southwest November 2017

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Fat Tire®, New Belgium®, and the bicycle logo are trademarks of New Belgium Brewing Co. ENJOY NEW BELGIUM RESPONSIBLY ©2017 New Belgium Brewing, Fort Collins, CO & Asheville, NC

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CONTENTS November 2017

42

36

53 In Every Issue Gary’s Greeting Saludos de Gary Our Star The A-List Spotlight Community Outreach 26 You Made Our Day 30 From the Editor 14 16 18 20 22 24

R

sapien

by

32 Feedback 92 Fun! 99 Advertiser Directory 115 The Southwest Guide 128 One Question

Play 35 Cop to singing to your canine, track down delicious Filipino cuisine, and shop in the Sooner State.

Work 45 Explore the best spots in New Orleans, meet a Broadway star, and fund your pet project.

Bernie O’Brien’s Tree Sanctuary 53 I never considered the stories behind the trees I tore out of my backyard until I met a man giving a new home to cedars and spruces alike. our cover / Photography by Jason Madara

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK CABRERA (DRINK), JANA CARSON (WOMEN), JASON MADARA (MAN), ILLUSTRATION BY LEVI HASTINGS (TREES)

74

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November 2017 EDITORIAL editorial director Jay Heinrichs creative director Kevin de Miranda editors Tommie Ethington Bradford Pearson associate editor Melissa Flandreau designers Desiree Espada Kim Thwaits junior designer Natalie Perez editorial assistant Kiley Faulkner art intern Daniel Alvarez contributors Nick Cabrera, Chris Gash, Matthew Halverson, Levi Hastings, Andrew Joyce, Jason Madara, Eric Steuer web development, pace interactive Jason Dalton, Carolyn Eckstein, Chad Hayton EDITORIAL INQUIRIES Write to Southwest: The Magazine 2811 McKinney Ave., Suite 360, Dallas, TX 75204, or email letters@southwestmag.com. SOUTHWEST INQUIRIES For comments or questions directed at Southwest Airlines that don’t pertain to the magazine, write to Southwest Airlines Customer Relations P.O. Box 36647, Dallas, TX 75235-1647, or visit the “Contact Us” page at Southwest.com.

ceo & owner Bonnie McElveen-Hunter chairman emeritus Eugene Johnston secretary-treasurer Patricia M. McConnell president Jason Whiting chief operating officer & chief financial officer Leigh Ann Klee vice president, production James A. DeCata production manager Greg Onder director of marketing Emily Wright media analyst Courtney Baker

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ADVERTISING publisher Debbie Cooper Dunkin, debbie.dunkin@paceco.com vice president of sales Diane Ciaglia, 732.360.0217, diane.ciaglia@paceco.com advertising services manager Jamie Mostofian, 336.383.5456, jamie.mostofian@paceco.com editor of content marketing Laura Burkehart, 336.383.5631, laura.burkehart@paceco.com art director Kevin Smithey, kevinsmitheydesigns@gmail.com WEST COAST associate publisher Hilary Myrick, 424.228.5241, hilary.myrick@paceco.com SOUTHWEST senior account manager Ellynn Adoue, 940.483.9223, ellynn.adoue@paceco.com Offer Expires 1/15/2018

NEVADA, SOUTHEAST, MID-ATLANTIC senior account manager Traci Pelter, 281.778.6536, traci.pelter@paceco.com MIDWEST, NEW ENGLAND Fox Associates, 800.440.0231 x116, adinfo.swt@foxrep.com

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NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY Diane Ciaglia, 732.360.0217, diane.ciaglia@paceco.com CARIBBEAN, MEXICO, CENTRAL AMERICA Affluentials David Antoniak, 727.466.0433 David@Affluentmedia.com Š 2017 Pace Communications, Inc., 1301 Carolina St., Greensboro, NC 27401. Southwest: The Magazine is published monthly by Pace Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of any material in this publication without written permission of Pace Communications, Inc., is expressly prohibited. The statements, opinions, and information contained in this publication are those of the individual authors, contributors, and advertisers and not of Pace Communications, Inc. or Southwest Airlines Co. Pace Communications, Inc. and Southwest Airlines Co. each disclaim any responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, topicality, or quality of any statements, opinions, or information provided. The appearance of advertisements in Southwest: The Magazine is not a warranty, endorsement, or approval of the products or services advertised or of their effectiveness, quality, or safety. Any liability claims against any author, contributor, or advertiser in respect of damage to persons or property caused or alleged to be caused by the use of the statements, opinions, or information contained in this publication, including any statements, opinions, or information which is incorrect or incomplete, are therefore excluded. Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all advertising material.

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Gary’s Greeting

As part of our ongoing quest to improve the Reliability of our operation and the Hospitality we offer our Customers, we have embarked on a fleet modernization initiative that will take our great airline to new heights. While there are several components to modernizing our fleet, just last month we reached yet another milestone with the launch of a brand new Boeing 737 aircraft called the MAX 8. I’m proud to say that Southwest is the launch customer of Boeing’s newest 737 series aircraft—which marks the fourth new Boeing aircraft type that Southwest has launched.

On Oct. 1, nine MAX 8 aircraft entered scheduled service, and we’ll end the year with 14 MAX 8 aircraft in our fleet. We have a fleet of more than 700 airplanes today, so we’re just getting started. With the introduction of the MAX 8, we simultaneously retired our oldest aircraft type: the Boeing 737-300. The -300 served us well for the past 30-plus years, but we are replacing these aging planes with newer aircraft that are designed to be quieter, more efficient, more reliable, and much more advanced. The Customer Experience on the MAX 8 is, in a word, sweet. Our new

seats feature an adjustable headrest and are the widest economy seat in the 737 market, complete with a lower-profile armrest, advanced cushion support, a raised information pocket, and an elevated rear seat beam that provides additional space under the seat in front of you for personal items. Overall, it means what Customers are asking for most— more personal space! The Boeing Sky Interior, currently on our 737-800s, features modern sculpted sidewalls and window reveals; LED lighting that enhances the sense of spaciousness; and larger, pivoting overhead stowage bins. We incorporated new Flight Attendant–designed galleys, including a third galley onboard, which will allow our Crews to serve you with more ease and working space. Just as importantly, the MAX 8 is expected to bring much improved fuel efficiency to the tune of 14 percent as compared to the -800. That results in fewer carbon emissions in the environment and lower fuel costs, allowing us to stay true to our low-fare brand. The MAX 8 will be primarily dedicated to longer-haul flights to some very exciting destinations, so stay tuned! I can’t wait for you to sit back, relax, and enjoy the MAX 8 on a future Southwest flight.

Gary Kelly Chairman and CEO Southwest Airlines

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

Meet the MAX

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Where the Rockies begin.

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Saludos de Gary

Como parte de nuestra constante búsqueda de mejorar la Confiabilidad de nuestra operación y la Hospitalidad que ofrecemos a nuestros Clientes, hemos emprendido una iniciativa de modernización de la flota que llevará a nuestra gran aerolínea a nuevas alturas. Aunque hay varios temas relacionados con la modernización de nuestra flota, el mes pasado alcanzamos otro hito con el lanzamiento de un nuevo Boeing 737 llamado MAX 8. Estoy orgulloso de decir que Southwest es el cliente de lanzamiento del modelo más nuevo de la serie 737 de Boeing, lo que lo convierte en el cuarto nuevo tipo de avión Boeing que Southwest ha lanzado. El 1 de octubre, nueve aeronaves MAX 8 comenzaron a dar servicio

regular, y para fin de año habremos incorporado 14 aviones MAX 8 a nuestra flota, la cual actualmente consta de más de 700 aviones. Como pueden ver, apenas estamos empezando. Simultáneamente a la introducción del MAX 8, retiramos nuestro tipo de avión más antiguo: el Boeing 737-300. El -300 nos sirvió bien durante los últimos más de 30 años, pero estamos reemplazando los aviones de años por aviones nuevos que han sido diseñados para ser más silenciosos, más eficientes, más confiables y mucho más avanzados. La experiencia del Cliente en el MAX 8 es, en una palabra, placentera. Nuestros nuevos asientos cuentan con un reposacabezas ajustable y son los más amplios de la clase económica en el mercado

de los 737. Poseen un reposabrazos de perfil bajo, un avanzado soporte de acojinamiento, un bolsillo de información elevado y un travesaño elevado en la parte trasera del asiento, lo que brinda espacio adicional para colocar objetos personales debajo del asiento de enfrente. En general, ofrece lo que los Clientes piden con mayor frecuencia ¡más espacio personal! El Sky Interior de Boeing, que actualmente tienen nuestros 737-800s, ofrece modernas paredes laterales y marcos de ventanas; iluminación LED que da mayor sensación de amplitud, y compartimentos giratorios superiores para equipaje. Hemos incorporado nuevas cabinas para la Tripulación, diseñadas por ellos mismos, incluyendo una tercera cabina, lo que permitirá que nuestras Tripulaciones le sirvan con más facilidad y que tengan más espacio de trabajo. Igual de importante, se espera que el MAX 8 aporte una eficiencia de combustible mucho mayor, de alrededor de 14% en comparación con el -800. Esto se traduce en menos emisiones de carbono en el medio ambiente y menores costos de combustible, lo que nos permite permanecer fieles a nuestra marca de bajo costo. El MAX 8 estará dedicado principalmente a vuelos de largo alcance a algunos destinos muy emocionantes, ¡así que permanezcan atentos! No puedo esperar a que se sienten, se relajen y disfruten del MAX 8 en un futuro vuelo de Southwest.

Gary Kelly Presidente de la Junta Directiva y Director Ejecutivo Southwest Airlines

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

Conozca al MAX

16 SOUTHWEST MONTH 2017

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Our Star

“Everyone has the ability to love others more. If we think we are loving enough, we’re failing.” —CHAD VANDER KOOI, CAPTAIN

When Captain Chad Vander Kooi joined Southwest Airlines in 2005, his love for serving others helped him fit in with the Culture from the start. If you’re lucky enough to be on one of Chad’s flights, you’ll likely notice him shaking hands with Passengers, taking wheelchairs down the ramp, hugging Employees, and helping Flight Attendants clean the plane. Chad also enjoys showing kids the buttons, lights, and switches in the cockpit, especially if they’re unaccompanied minors having a tough time traveling alone. Chad, thank you for everything you do to make both Southwest and the world a happier place. —Steph Logue, Communication and Outreach

PIE FIVE “I grew up in Lynden, Washington. Stop by Dutch Mothers restaurant and ask for my aunts, Jane and Marilyn. Their pies are awesome!”

To thank Chad for his work and dedication, Penn & Teller is proud to give him two tickets to see the show in Las Vegas. Congratulations, Chad!

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PASS THE TEST “As Pilots, we go to Dallas each year for three days of training and testing. I appreciate it because I know it’s keeping us prepared for any circumstance we may face.” FAMILY MATTERS “I had the privilege of flying my wife and three kids. I was humbled and proud to show them a little bit of what I do.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ASHLEE DUNCAN

TEAM UP “Southwest is like an aircraft. Every Employee plays an integral role in making our Company fly.”

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The A-List

“If you combine what you’re great at with what you love, you’ll be fulfilled your whole life.” —ROBYN BENINCASA , FIREFIGHTER; FOUNDER, PROJECT ATHENA FOUNDATION Between fighting fires in San Diego, managing a nonprofit, and motivating leaders nationwide, Robyn Benincasa is always on the go. She considers the sky her second home and frequently travels to speaking engagements at company rallies. Robyn’s flights also allow her to support Project Athena, her nonprofit, which helps women who have survived medical or traumatic setbacks live an adventurous dream as part of recovery. Using her Rapid Rewards points, Robyn is able to fly survivors across the country, and she relies on Southwest to get them to their ventures safely. We’re proud to have your back, Robyn! —Claire Daniel, Communication & Outreach WHY SOUTHWEST “When you’re a speaker and you run a nonprofit, you depend on travel. You have to be with an airline that has Southwest’s flexibility.” LET’S TALK “I speak to com-

panies about building successful teams. I want to help them reach their finish lines.”

L ABORS OF LOVE “Find the ‘vein of gold’ within you. It’s important to know what you love and what you’re great at, and then keep searching.” DREAM BIG “My husband and I want to build an animal rescue on land we have in Sedona, Arizona.”

GO FOR A SPIN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK ROGOZIENSKI

Robyn has completed 10 Ironmans and enjoys adventure racing.

20 SOUTHWEST NOVEMBER 2017

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Spotlight

MOVIE MAGIC

Exploring New Worlds with Coco

Adventure awaits with Disney/Pixar’s latest film.

Southwest Airlines is all about transporting People to unexplored destinations where new experiences await. But Southwest takes you home, too. Likewise, Coco promises adventure, welcoming moviegoers to never-before-seen worlds, while underscoring the importance of home. “Coco is about a boy who dreams of becoming a musician,” director Lee Unkrich says. “His journey is exciting and funny, and the world he visits is extraordinary—but the real heart of the story is family. Those relationships are the root of who we are. We’re forever connected to those who came before us.” In the film, aspiring musician Miguel (voiced by Anthony Gonzalez) hopes to follow in the footsteps of his idol, superstar Ernesto de la Cruz (voiced by Benjamin Bratt). But Miguel’s family doesn’t share his love of music—in fact, they’ve banned it—so he finds himself torn between his dream and the

people he loves. The story was inspired by the filmmakers’ extensive travels throughout Mexico. “We visited big cities and rural towns,” Unkrich says. “We went to museums and spent time in gardens and plazas. But the best part for me was the time we spent with the people of Mexico. Families—moms, dads, aunts, uncles, grandparents, and kids of all ages—welcomed us into their homes where we saw firsthand how they interact with each other. We shared meals and listened to music.” As the story took shape, artists and technicians began to create the film’s two distinct worlds: the Land of the Living and the Land of the Dead. Miguel hails from Santa Cecilia, a charming fictional village largely inspired by the filmmakers’ travels. The Land of the Dead, however, is a fantastical, colorful world of towers. “We theorized that it grows as each generation arrives,” Unkrich says. “Each layer reflects an era, from Mesoamerican pyramids to Spanish colonial architecture and so on.” Southwest embraces the vibrant colors with our Coco-themed Boeing 737. As it flies around our system, follow the aircraft using #CocoAndSouthwest. Ahead of the film’s Nov. 22 theatrical debut, tune in to Coco content on WiFi-equipped aircraft via the onboard entertainment portal. —Alyssa Eliasen, Communications

COCO © 2017 DISNEY/PIXAR

Miguel teams up with charming trickster Hector in the Land of the Dead.

22 SOUTHWEST NOVEMBER 2017

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Community Outreach

Reach for the Sky

Southwest Airlines inspires young women to succeed.

At Southwest Airlines, it’s no secret that our People are our recipe for success. We’re constantly looking for innovative ways to build our diverse talent pipeline, and because of the specific education requirements for some of our careers in the fields of science, technology, engineering, and mathematics, it’s imperative to spark an interest at a young age. This year, we worked with two groups to interest more young girls in STEM-related careers. Through a partnership with the USS Midway Museum in San Diego, Southwest created a program that allowed girls participating in Girl Scouts of San Diego and MANA de San Diego Hermanitas to learn more about science, as well as explore career opportunities in aviation. The event, called Operation Wing Scout, took its name from a World War II–era Girl Scouts aviation program. During Operation Wing Scout, the girls experienced classroom instruction, spent time in flight simulators in the Southwest Airlines Flight Academy

Lab, and participated in a panel discussion that featured prominent San Diego women working in the field of aviation. Two girls from the Hermanitas program even created and designed the program’s Wing Scout patch. Our hope is that earning this patch will inspire them to reach for the sky when considering future career opportunities. This past summer, Southwest also joined forces with GenHERation, a network that connects young women and companies. Young women traveled from all over the country to attend GenHERation’s Discovery Days event, which began at Southwest Headquarters in Dallas. These women toured Southwest’s campus, completed a Southwest scavenger hunt, and heard career advice from four of Southwest’s women executive Leaders. “It is a privilege to partner with Southwest because we share a similar mission of connecting people to important experiences in their lives,” GenHERation founder and CEO Katlyn Grasso says. Through efforts like these, we hope to continue inspiring young women to pursue their dreams and start the education needed for STEM-related careers at an early age. —Rachel Barry, Corporate Communication

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEMO CAVADA (GIRLS) AND CODY MIN (INSET)

Girl Scouts of San Diego and MANA de San Diego Hermanitas on the USS Midway, and (inset) Southwest and GenHERation teams at Discovery Days 2017

24 SOUTHWEST NOVEMBER 2017

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YOUR STORY. YOUR PATH. YOUR TIME.

IT’S HERE.

Your future begins at the University of the Incarnate Word. Here you’ll find small classes with personal attention and more than 90 academic programs. With over 95% of students receiving some form of financial aid, you’ll find support to help you become a Cardinal. You’ll find Division I sports and over 90 student organizations all at a university built on a foundation of faith and commitment to service. Most of all, you’ll find a pathway to discover something truly amazing. The power of you. uiw.edu.

DISCOVER THE POWER OF YOU SAN ANTONIO, TX

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You Made Our Day WANT TO SHARE YOUR STORY? Have you witnessed an over-the-top act of Southwest Airlines Employee kindness? Let us know at Southwest.com/ contact-us.

We have flown several airlines over the last four years, and this was a first for her. She has been talking about it all day. Thank you, thank you, thank you for showing my little girl that her dreams of being a pilot can come true. —Erin Cooper

Dear Southwest,

Recently, my daughter was on a flight to Florida with her grandparents to see family. Her father is in the Air Force, and she has always had a love for planes as he is a crew chief. Her grandmother sent me a lovely picture of her sitting in the cockpit with Capt. Sabrina Odsgaard. My daughter has said for about the past year that she wants to be a pilot when she grows up. Your pilot, who just happened to be female, gave her the opportunity to see that her dream can come true!

ILLUSTRATION BY LEVI HASTINGS

BREAKFAST TACO HERO

I was running late for an early flight, but just before joining the security check queue, I decided to grab a breakfast taco. I know I shouldn’t have, but my 6-months-pregnant belly wouldn’t allow me to miss what could be my last opportunity to enjoy savory Texas barbecue for months. Miraculously, I received my taco, made it through security, and, after an Olympic-worthy sprint, found myself in a comfortable aisle seat on the airplane. Eager to devour my taco, I reached into my bag. My beloved egg and sausage angel was nowhere to be found—and neither was my favorite oversized sweater. It hit me that I must have left both items at the security checkpoint. I decided to check with the flight attendant to see if there was a chance I could grab my items, and he told me to check with the gate attendant. Just as I reached him, I heard a voice behind me ask, “What did you leave?” It was first officer Gary Krupsky. I told him it was my sweater and taco, and that

26 SOUTHWEST NOVEMBER 2017

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was all the information he needed. I returned to my seat to pray. Dear God, I won’t ever be late for a flight again, and I definitely won’t stop to order any other delicious food items when I know I’m supposed to hurry if you are only so kind to bring back my taco. For my precious baby, of course. Amen. Just as I was opening my eyes, there was my hero, Gary Krupsky, with a blue sweater in one hand and a sandwich bag in the other. Yes, the taco was totally worth it. I still promise never to be late again. —Domale Keys MARVELOUS GENEROSIT Y

I have the privilege of flying on Southwest quite a bit for work. I have been amused, entertained, and delighted by the staff on a regular basis. Recently, as we were finishing a completely full flight that had been delayed due to weather, a lady came up with a travel pillow that had a rip in it and was leaking the “snow” stuffing. She simply asked if the staff could toss it before it made a bigger mess. Flight attendant Mark Savage recognized it

as a brand they sold in the concourse. He took the pillow, ran to the store that sold them, and came back with a new pillow for the lady. You have an airline that allows its staff the latitude to express their generosity in such small and marvelous ways. Thank you. —Chris Pollinger CARE AND COMPASSION

My 71-year-old mother, my 5-year-old son, and I were flying from Kansas City to Reno with a brief layover in San Diego. As we were waiting to board the last leg of our trip, my mom leaned against me and then collapsed. Before I knew what was happening, the Harbor Police were taking over. Paramedics quickly had her in a wheelchair and on a heart monitor. In my head, if I could just get Mom home everything would be all right. I went to talk with the gate agent when customer service supervisor Jason Khalaf swooped in. He very gently told me that we weren’t going to make this flight, which was about the time the gravity of everything hit me.

Jason said he would do everything he could to help. He booked us flights for the next day, and told me he was going to find us a hotel room. The paramedics explained that Mom needed to be seen by a doctor as they didn’t like what the heart monitor was showing. Jason calmly told me, as I tried to focus, that he was having a hard time finding a room, but if I gave him my number, he would call when he found one. We were taken by ambulance to the UCSD emergency room. Between frantic texts to my husband, father, sister, and boss, I got a call from Jason. He had found us what was probably the last room in San Diego. Thankfully, Mom was released and cleared to fly shortly after he called. Turns out, she is very healthy, but low blood pressure and dehydration make for a lousy combination. Every person I met from that horrible moment when Mom fell until we checked in to the hotel was kind, concerned, and genuinely goodhearted. None so much as Jason. The kind of compassion he showed can’t be taught. —Heather Drew

There are followers. And

LEADERSHIP STARTS HERE

there are leaders. A top 10 International Business program and a top 25 Entrepreneurship program help prepare our students to lead the way in a global economy.

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from the editor

Low beaches or high lakes: Many of our best vacation choices involve elevation. After all, the most beautiful places tend to perch on topographical highs and lows. There’s a lesson in this, I suspect. I got an inkling some years ago while scuba diving in Belize with my daughter, Dorothy Jr. Our dive master took a group of us 60 feet down a spectacular coral reef. Just as we reached the most interesting depths, I checked my air level and discovered I was running low. Reluctantly, I signaled to the master. My profligate use of oxygen cut short a wonderful dive for everyone. I had always seen myself as an extreme-sport kind of guy, boldly seeking outdoor challenges. But the people who were nailing this dive were the laid-back types who could live life one sustained breath at a time. Another lesson came a few years later, when my son and I climbed the highest mountain in New Mexico. After an especially tough climb, we made it to the top. We stood tall on Wheeler Peak’s 13,161foot summit like the manliest of men.

Suddenly, up popped a middle-aged woman wearing a pink tracksuit, followed by three more, all dressed alike. “We’re from Dallas!” they said, adding that they climb Wheeler Peak every year. They got their hair done beforehand, as if this summit were the lawn of a country club. My dive mates and those perfectly coiffed climbers demonstrate an underappreciated skill. While some of us test ourselves at the extremes, these people raise the art of comfort to a sport in itself. They teach us not so much to leave our comfort zones, but to expand those zones. If we follow their lesson, we just might elevate the rest of our lives.

Jay Heinrichs EDITORIAL DIRECTOR @JAYHEINRICHS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PESKYMONKEY/ISTOCK (PALM TREES), CREATIVA IMAGES/ ISTOCK (SKIING)

Dear Reader,

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T:7.5” S:7.5”

At Houston Methodist Cancer Center, we offer patients from around the world treatment options they may not find anywhere else. That’s because our team of nationally recognized specialists are finding new ways to outsmart cancer, while delivering the most advanced treatments and comprehensive care available. From screenings to diagnosis and treatment, every aspect of our cutting-edge cancer care is available so that you can focus on healing, surviving and thriving.

Learn why our cancer care is worth the distance at houstonmethodist.org/cancer-travel or by phone: Domestic Toll Free: 877.790.3627 International: +1.713.441.2340

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T:10.5”

S:10.5”

OUTSMARTING CANCER TAKES LEADING MEDICINE.


feedback

Talk to Us For comments or questions directed at Southwest Airlines that don’t pertain to the magazine, visit Southwest.com/ contact-us.

letters@southwestmag.com facebook.com/ SouthwestMagazine @SouthwestTheMag #SouthwestMag @SouthwestMagazine #SouthwestMag

I was moved to tears by Tommy Tomlinson’s thoughtful presentation of Sybil Jordan Hampton’s story [“The Place Where Sybil Stood Up,” September 2017]. First, I was angry for how she was treated, and I imagined my own daughter being mistreated. Later, I was overjoyed by Sybil’s experience at the reunion and by the change of heart she experienced from many of her classmates. Her grace and strength were conduits for healing and reconciliation. I thought I knew what the Little Rock Nine were all about. Thanks to Tommy and Sybil for adding depth. Wes McDaniel CHANDLER, ARIZONA

/ Thank you, Wes. Tommy’s story shows that people actually can grow. And maybe nations can, too. CONTINUED ON PAGE 33

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DESIREE ESPADA (MAGAZINE)

Dear Editor,

32 Southwest november 2017

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10/10/17 10:36 AM


CONTINUED FROM PAGE 32

HAPPY COINCIDENCE

On a recent flight, I didn’t bring my own reading materials—a rare occurrence—but it worked out when I read the article about Sybil Jordan Hampton. It’s nice to hear the rest of the story. Job well done.

Julie Simmonds NORTH BRANCH, MINNESOTA

/ Feel free to forget your reading

material on every future Southwest flight, Julie!

pursue the translation of photography into my own writing.

Yvonne Contreras DALLAS

/ Ryan is a writer who can hold you to a story. Now, what’s for dinner?

stellar. I appreciated his thoughtful, sensitive, well-chosen words and gave a second copy to a friend who is also an artist and a poet. I knew the words would resonate.

Suzanne D. Johnson CAVE CREEK, ARIZONA

WELL-CHOSEN WORDS

Ryan Bradley’s story, “The Tears of Rose-Lynn Fisher,” got my attention immediately. His writing on what motivates Rose-Lynn and what her work means to her was

/ Thanks for sharing, Suzanne. CORRECTION

In the October 2017 issue, there was an error in the second warm-up Sudoku. The 2 and 3 in the fifth row were transposed. We regret this error.

PAYING IT FORWARD

I read Tommy Tomlinson’s brilliantly written article on Sybil Jordan Hampton and wanted to thank you for keeping our history alive through these stories of struggle to triumph. Her perseverance in the “long game” is truly a strategy and level of maturity to behold. It serves as a great reminder for me to keep challenging the status quo to achieve greater success and equity in the work I do as the head of diversity and inclusion at a leading tech company. A heartfelt thank you to Sybil for enduring her sadness in order to create opportunities for the rest of us.

Meal prep to your doorstep!

L. Brown MORGAN HILL, CALIFORNIA

/ A long game indeed.

Breakfast Bre r akfast re

Dinner

Lunch

CAPTIVATING READ

I stumbled upon Ryan Bradley’s article [“The Tears of Rose-Lynn Fisher,” August 2017] and wanted to applaud him. He has a unique way of captivating an audience, and that’s coming from someone who can read something for two minutes and then daydream about what’s for dinner. Thank you for giving great insight into RoseLynn’s work. It inspired me to

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PLAY Number

51%

of dog owners sing to their dog.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL GULOTTA/STOCKSY

Now that’s puppy love. After surveying 1,500 pet parents, Rover, a startup that connects owners to dog walkers and sitters, discovered that a majority of people croon to their canine companions. “Music makes us happy, so we share that with our dogs,” Rover spokesperson Natasha Ho says. “Even if they don’t have the same appreciation for it, we think of it as something that will show our dogs we love them.” Rover’s research also found that, of those owners who like to serenade their four-legged friends, 24 percent make up their own songs. That kind of creativity deserves a round of appaws.

PART Y ANIMALS Fifty-six percent of dog owners have celebrated their dog’s birthday.

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PLAY Drink

MAKE IT → Combine 1½ ounces Dripping Springs artisan gin, 1½ ounces cucumber cordial*, ¾ ounce lemon juice, ¼ ounce Gamle Ode holiday aquavit, ¼ ounce Hamilton pimento dram, and a dash of salt tincture** in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Shake until frosty, and then strain into a Collins glass. Garnish with cucumber cucumber. *Combine 2 quarts cucumber juice—juiced with the skins on—with 1 pound sugar; stir until sugar dissolves. Add ½ cup vodka, and stir to combine. **Combine 20 grams kosher salt with 80 milliliters warm water; shake until blended. Store in a dasher bottle.

Don’t worry, the drink tastes just as good without the cucumber rose.

ORDE R THIS

The One With Cucumber

In Japanese folklore, the kappa is a mischievous reptilian creature that lurks in rivers and lakes, snacking on unsuspecting children. It can be placated with gifts, though, and its favorite treat—the only thing it enjoys eating more than kids—is a cucumber. At DTO in Galveston, Texas, owner Brad Stringer created The One With Cucumber as “a peace offering to these nasty little beasts.” Gin and cucumber cordial are combined with herb-infused aquavit and spicy Jamaican dram. A dash of salt tincture is a nod to both Galveston’s coastal location and the habitat of the kappa, wherever it may be hiding.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK CABRERA

9/28/17 2:04 PM


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PLAY Eat TRE NDING

Filipino Cuisine

Walk into any Filipino home, and you’ll likely be greeted with a familiar expression: “Kumain ka na ba?” If you don’t speak Tagalog, it roughly translates to “Hey! You eat yet?” And at Bonifacio in Columbus, Ohio, we hope your answer is no. Filipino cuisine is a natural fusion cuisine, combining geographic influences—like flavors from China, India, and Malaysia—with colonial ones from Spain. Nowhere is that amalgam more evident than the restaurant’s monthly kamayan feasts. Verdant banana leaves cover the tables and are topped with piles of lemony chicken inasal, garlicky longganisa sausages, mango salad, crispy pork-studded lumpiang … you get the idea. So, kumain ka na ba?

ISLAND TIME

/ WASHINGTON, D.C.

The line at Bad Saint always snakes down the block, but grab a spot and hope the ukoy—a fried tangle of sweet potatoes and seafood—is on the ever-changing menu.

/ DALY CITY, CA

Kare-kare is a Filipino peanut stew, usually made with oxtail.

/ ST. LOUIS

Guerrilla Street Food translates the country’s traditional flavors into the Belly of the Beast, a rice bowl with pork belly, fish sauce, coconut milk, and chiles.

WANT MORE? Browse the Inflight Entertainment Portal for the best spots to eat, drink, stay, and play in your final destination. It’s free!

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE WONDER JAM (BONIFACIO), AND FARRAH SKEIKY (BAD SAINT)

Start with Chibog’s spring rolls, and then order the bangus sisig, a shredded fish stir-fry. Wash it all down with calamansi juice, a Filipino lemonade.

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76818 Maine • Southwest In-Flight Magazine • November '17 • 7.5" x 10.5" • sjs

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9/27/17 11:01 AM


PLAY Tool

The Right Track

Monitor your activity with this chic accessory. Wearable tech just got a lot more, well, wearable. A fashion-forward take on activity trackers, the Ringly Go Smart Bracelet ($125) means you can keep an eye on your steps without sacrificing style. Along with measuring miles, Ringly Go syncs with more than 100 apps, from Gmail to Snapchat, and allows you to set customizable push notifications.

When important calls, texts, or emails come through, the bracelet will vibrate and its small LED light will illuminate, letting you stay informed without watching your phone. Available in two colorways, Ringly Go also offers meditation exercises through its corresponding app. Talk about a step up.

More Wearable Tech

Motiv The sleek Motiv Ring ($199) lets you measure your heart rate, activity, and sleep. Bellabeat The Leaf Urban ($139), which can be clipped on or worn as a necklace or bracelet, monitors activity, meditation, and more. Tinsel Thanks to the Dipper ($199), a necklace that doubles as headphones, you can listen to tunes without changing your look.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF RINGLY

Visit ringly.com to browse smart bracelets and rings.

40 Southwest november 2017

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Elevate Your Standing Earn your DPA from CBU Online

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PLAY Shop

Wall Hanging amy sanders ceramics This young artist is slowly losing her vision, but continues to create beautiful clay pieces. $42; amysandersart.com

Bourbon Barleywine 405 brewing co.

Prepare for your next soiree at wearethe socialclub.com.

Aged with peaches in oak bourbon barrels, this smallbatch vintage is our favorite. Visit their taproom to pick up a bottle (or two). $15; 405brewing.com

The Love Tee love well handmade

The owners of The Social Club share stylish Sooner State brands.

Erica Smith and Dana Scott view their hair salon–boutique in downtown Norman as an extension of their own homes. “It’s like when you have people over for a dinner party: You want them to feel comfortable and like they’re part of the family,” Dana says. Since joining forces in 2012, the University of Oklahoma alums have grown their small shop and one-chair salon into a space that houses eight stylists, as well as wares that reflect their shared love of entertaining—pick up everything from cheese boards to vintage glassware.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANA CARSON

Found in Oklahoma

Part of the proceeds from this tee benefit New Story, a charity that builds homes for impoverished families. $28; love wellhandmade.com

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10/9/17 5:06 PM


The Only Nationally Ranked Heart Hospital in DFW U.S. News & World Report has again recognized The Heart Hospital Baylor Plano as one of the nation’s best hospitals for Cardiology & Heart Surgery, ranking us 16th in the publication’s 2018 “America’s Best Hospitals” guide. The Heart Hospital has also been honored as high-performing in five important cardiovascular care areas. For you, these recognitions confirm our commitment to providing quality health care and better patient outcomes each day. To find out more about our award-winning care, visit TheHeartHospitalBaylor.com.

The Heart Hospital Baylor Plano

Physicians provide clinical services as members of the medical staff at one of Baylor Scott & White Health’s subsidiary, community or affiliated medical centers and do not provide clinical services as employees or agents of those medical centers or Baylor Scott & White Health. ©2017 Baylor Scott & White Health. BSWTHHBP_14_2017 SOM

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His dream protects millions of kids everyday *

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10/4/17 9:14 AM


WORK Number

36%

of us are more loyal to our co-workers than our bosses. According to a survey of more than 36,000 tech workers conducted by Comparably, our allegiance rests with our cubicle compatriots and not our direct reports or our company. These close ties, which stem from spending more of our time with colleagues, can positively affect office atmosphere. “Company culture isn’t perks or platitudes—it’s people. It’s the energy they bring and how they help each other,” says Comparably co-founder and CEO Jason Nazar. “The largest factor in contributing to a great company culture is the quality of your relationship with your peers.” Talk about working wonders.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIMSA/ISTOCK

THE COMPANY YOU KEEP The survey also found that 26 percent of people socialize with co-workers outside of work at least once a week .

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WORK Takeaway

Alton Fitzgerald White

The Broadway star says rejection is the key to character building, in life and on stage. There have been many times when I’ve auditioned for something I thought I was so right for, but it didn’t work out. As actors, we deal with rejection all the time, and it was important for me to figure out what I learned about myself in the process of preparing for these auditions. Often the prep

for a part I didn’t get led me to sharpen my skills for something else—something that was ultimately the perfect fit for me. And because I had worked so hard on the previous auditions, I already had all of those tools at my fingertips and was totally prepared.

OUT TAKES FEAR FACTOR It sounds odd coming from an actor, but I’ve dealt with shyness my entire life. With acting, you’re in character. Now I’m becoming a public speaker, and trying to motivate people with my own experience, so I can’t go up there and pretend I’m somebody else. RENAISSANCE MAN Joe Morton, who plays Rowan Pope on the show Scandal, was my first musical theater hero. His incredible film and television career inspires me to go beyond theater, too. CIRCLE OF LIFE “They Live in You” will always be my favorite song that we performed in The Lion King. It represents everyone we’ve loved and lost, and the lessons they taught us.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LELUND DUROND THOMPSON

Alton’s new book, My Pride: Mastering Life’s Daily Performance, recounts his record-breaking run as Mufasa in Broadway’s The Lion King.

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5

Your

ISLAND OASIS

is waiting.

Hold your family closer on your very own island. South Padre Island has 34 miles of beautiful white sand and clear emerald water. Along with 5,000 places to stay and countless ways for your family to have fun in the sun. Dive into it at sopadre.com.

Make it yours.

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WORK Trip

RELAX ↙ Grab a pork belly-and-mint sandwich at nearby Cochon Butcher before heading to leafy Lafayette Square to take in the Big Easy’s magnolias and azaleas.

SLEEP ← At Ace Hotel New Orleans, drop your bags upstairs, and then venture to the on-site Three Keys for a free DJ set or jazz performance.

DRINK ↙ Housed in one of downtown’s oldest remaining homes, CellarDoor is the perfect spot to sip on a Vieux Carré, invented just a few blocks away.

EAT ↖ At the seafood-focused Pêche, reach for the fettuccine with spicy ground shrimp (and a side of creamed corn and butter beans to cool off your tongue).

EXPLORE → Visit the Ogden Museum of Southern Art this month to view Prospect.4, a citywide exhibition highlighting New Orleans’ natural environment.

WALKING DISTANCE

New Orleans

Formerly an industrial area, the Warehouse District is now stocked a bit differently. 48 southwest november 2017

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ILLUSTRATION BY ANDREW JOYCE

10/11/17 1:08 PM


WORK Solution

companies and celebrities saw the appeal: Crowdsourcing lets you engage the public without losing creative control. There’s also a built-in publicity launch to the millions of people looking at projects, who can then test your product, give feedback, and help gauge if it’s even buyable.”

Alex’s company, Vann Alexandra, has raised more than $20 million for client campaigns.

What determines if a project will succeed? “Aside from having a solid team and an engaging campaign page, you have to have an existing audience. It can be a strong mailing list or loyal social media followers, but if you don’t already have an invested crowd, you’ll launch to no one and fall flat.”

Back Your Big Idea

Crowdsourcing whiz Alex Daly breaks down the best campaign practices. What is crowdsourcing? “There are different types, but rewards-based crowdfunding is the most common,” says Alex Daly, author of The Crowdsourceress: Get Smart, Get Funded, and Kickstart Your Next Big Idea. “Say you’re raising money to finish a documentary. In return for $15, donors get ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS GASH

F1_solution_kt.indd 49

a copy, or, for $1,000, an associate producer credit.”

Who can benefit from this type of fundraising? “When sites like Indiegogo and Kickstarter began, mom-and-pop creatives were using them because they couldn’t get traditional investors or grants. Then, Fortune 500

Any pointers for building that audience? “There’s the organic way— connecting with people you know will love the project through social media or a newsletter— and an accelerated route that involves advertising. Then, there’s the press. Try to get a few published pieces that offer a sneak peek of your project.” After a campaign succeeds, what’s next? “Update backers every step of the way and aim to get the product out the door as soon as possible, but make sure it’s the best it can be. Also, let those who missed the cutoff still participate. InDemand, an offshoot of Indiegogo, and BackerKit allow you to receive funding even after a campaign is over.” november 2017 Southwest 49

10/2/17 1:33 PM


WORK Startup

MakeSpace also offers protection plans for items in storage. Learn more at makespace.com.

MakeSpace

MAKESPACE BY THE NUMBERS

Here’s how CEO and co-founder Sam Rosen describes the storage company: When Hurricane Sandy hit in 2012, my girlfriend at the time was living in Hoboken, New Jersey, and her place was destroyed. I helped her move what she could save into a traditional storage locker, but I couldn’t find any of the things as soon as we packed up. I thought, Wouldn’t it be cool if we could see inside a storage unit from anywhere? With MakeSpace, customers choose the unit size and storage term, and then get a price quote based on where they live. For a flat rate per man,

we come to their house, pick up and wrap items, and then take them to our storage warehouse where we create a digital catalogue—pictures of their couch, their chair, their boxes. When they want something, they log into their account and can have one or all of their things delivered. With traditional storage companies, you schlep through the facility, there’s heavy lifting, and you forget what’s there. With MakeSpace, we solved these problems by picking up and inventorying items, and avoiding raised rates by locking in prices for entire storage terms.

4

/ cities served by MakeSpace

1 in 10 /

U.S. households rent offsite storage

$20

/ starting cost for deliveries

3 or 12 /

month storage terms

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF MAKESPACE

This tech-savvy service takes the pain out of packing up.

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SOME SEE

A HEART DEFECT.

WE SEE

A LIFETIME OF POTENTIAL.

It wasn’t until shortly after delivery that Laurel’s parents became aware of her serious heart condition. The decision to see Dr. Husain at University Health System was made quickly, and her first successful surgery followed just hours later. Laurel’s parents felt their heartache turn into hope, thanks to the nationally recognized1 heart team of University Children’s Health at South Texas’ only dedicated pediatric congenital heart center. Backed by survival outcomes that far exceed the national average2, we offer an unrivaled combination of experience, technology, and personal touch — ensuring kids like Laurel have the best chance for the brightest future. Learn more at PediatricHeartSouthTexas.com

In partnership with UT Health San Antonio

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One man’s quest to give a second life to trees destined for the chipper / BY MATTHEW HALVERSON

ILLUSTRATION BY LEVI HASTINGS

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nd this,” Bernie O’Brien says, his eyes getting dewy, “is the Joshua Tree.” For an hour now, Bernie has led me on a walking tour of his 5-acre wooded property near Seattle, introducing me to a selection of his favorite trees. Western hemlocks, bigleaf maples, cedars, and Sitka spruces rub shoulders and stretch skyward all over this plot, 38 miles and a ferry ride southwest of the city. Most of those leafy giants were well established when Bernie and his wife, Michelle, bought the place. The rest, though, he dug out of backyards all over the area and brought here in the bed of his ancient red Ford F100. Over there’s what the 56-year-old calls the Spirit Tree, a gnarled noble fir that a family pilfered as a seedling from a state park in southern Washington more than 35 years ago, just months before the park was leveled by the fury of Mount St. Helens. There are the 16 Japanese november 2017 southwest 53

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maples that were set to be bulldozed to make room for a housing development. And then there’s the Placenta Tree, which … you know what, let’s just not. But the Joshua Tree is something different altogether. Bernie told me about this 18-foot Douglas fir— its namesake, how he adopted it, the responsibility he feels to keep it alive—when we met for the first time weeks earlier, and he did it with the somber tone usually

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reserved for discussing a monument. Honestly, it felt a little overthe-top because, come on, we’re talking about a tree. But seeing it now, its spindly branches haloed by the sun on an uncharacteristically clear May day in the Pacific Northwest, I think I get it. I might even get trees, in a way I never have before. HAVE YOU EVER looked at a tree? Really studied the knots and imperfections in its trunk the way

you’d obsess over the blemishes on your face? Gotten so close you could smell its branches, like damp cardboard left to dry and curl in the sun? I hadn’t, at least not before I met Bernie. Which is why I can’t tell you much about the three fruit trees I cut down behind my house in 2010. I was a first-time homeowner, intent on, as a real estate agent would say, making the place my own. Because I’m the son of a man who took as much pride in the exterior of his home as its interior, landscaping was a priority. I had two goals: beautification and increased functionality. Any existing plant life that impeded that plan was expendable. And those three trees—two craggy, lichen-covered plums and an apple—cast too much shadow on my postage stamp–sized yard and would make it impossible to one day play catch with my then-infant son. So they had to go. If only I’d known Bernie back then. By the time I was firing up the chainsaw, he’d been transplanting trees to the property— which he calls the farm, though the only things he harvests are sweat and good intentions—for more than a year. “I don’t know anyone who goes to the lengths Bernie does, of digging out these humongous root balls and then getting them into his truck and planting them on his property,” says Randall Babich, who owns a large parcel of land across the street from Bernie’s. “He’s like the Mother Teresa of trees.” It started with Craigslist. Bernie is a junker, self-professed. The double-hung, wood-framed windows in his house on the farm? They came from an acquaintance’s home that had been gutted for a remodel. He saved a downed tree on its way to the chipper and turned its trunk into a bench for Michelle’s mom to rest on when she takes long walks on his property. In 2009, he stumbled upon an ad for 15 Douglas firs that a woman

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wanted removed from her yard, dead or alive. “It was muddy, dirty work digging them up, but I didn’t care,” Bernie tells me. It’s two weeks after the farm tour, and we’re sitting at the kitchen table in his primary home, a modest, eclectically decorated craftsman in West Seattle. He has broad shoulders, a narrow gap in his teeth, and close-cropped salt-and-pepper hair. He’s a Carhartts–and–T-shirt kind of guy who answers his cell Hi, sweetie every time Michelle calls. Every time. Those trees weren’t just an impulse acquisition; they solved a problem. Bernie and Michelle bought the farm as a weekend retreat—he’s the property manager for a wealthy investor/art collector, and she’s an interior designer—and early on he’d fall asleep there to a chorus of owl hoots and coyote howls. “It made me feel like I was living in a developed ecosystem,” he says. “I was just a visitor.” But months later, a neighbor had her

While we sprint through life, trees amble. So Bernie doesn’t plant a tree where it will look good now, but where it will become part of a bigger tapestry. property logged, and the woods fell silent. Bernie couldn’t replace what was lost, but he could build out his own little forest with other people’s botanical castoffs. So back he went to Craigslist, again and again and again. When I ask him how many trees he’s moved out to the farm, he smiles sheepishly at Michelle, who’s just walked in with a load of groceries. “Come on, man, you ask me that in front of my wife?” Is that a bad question? “We have a joke,” she interjects. “Some people sneak new clothes or new shoes into the house. Bernie

sneaks in new trees.” She lowers her voice in a loving impression of him: “Oh, I don’t know where that new tree came from.” The answer, by the way, is well over a thousand. Since 2009. And he even took one year off after tearing his rotator cuff. Only about a quarter of those transplants were taller than 5 feet, but still: That’s a lot of digging. Most of which he did by himself. IN APRIL 2012, after receiving a tip from one of Bernie’s sisters, a reporter for The Seattle Times wrote about what, by then, had

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evolved from a simple attempt to fortify the farm against the steady march of development to an honest–to–John Muir quest to save doomed trees. The article appeared under the headline “The Human Shovel,” and in the months after it ran, Bernie received 300 emails from Seattleites with trees they needed to off-load. Some were very serious, he says. Others probably just wanted a little help with their yard work.

welled up. He tried to read it to Michelle, but couldn’t finish. Edgell’s son Joshua had been killed by an avalanche while snowboarding in Switzerland in March 2006. At his memorial, she handed out 75 seedlings so friends and family would have something tangible by which to remember him. Of the few that were left after the ceremony, she planted one in a pot in her backyard. Six years later, it was flourishing, but it would eventually

Bernie may only be here temporarily, but he’ll always be able to watch over his trees. Among the serious was Kathy Edgell. “I read about you in the paper the other day and would like to offer you a 5’ douglas fir which is in a large plastic pot,” her email began, innocuously. As Bernie continued to scan it, though, his eyes

need to go into the ground, and her tiny yard was no place for a tree that could one day reach 300 feet. “It would give me a good feeling to give this plant to you,” she wrote. If Edgell got a good vibe about Bernie from the article, the feeling

only intensified after meeting him. “I thought, Oh, gosh, this is the perfect person,” she says now. “He was just so kind.” (The two had lost touch in the years since the original exchange, and when he contacted her to see if she’d speak to me, he also asked for her permission to prune the tree.) The Joshua Tree has more than tripled in size in the five years since Bernie transplanted it, evidence of not only the good growing conditions at his property, but also of his dedication to its health. That first year, the most crucial to its adjustment, he never skipped a watering, even when his schedule forced him to neglect other trees. It’s getting so big now, stretching its long, needled branches up toward the sun, that he’s beginning to think about how he’ll soon have to cut back the nearby western hemlocks to give it room. WHILE WE SPRINT through life, trees amble. So, at the farm, Bernie

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measures time in decades, rather than hours or days. He doesn’t plant a tree where it will look good now, but where it will one day become part of a bigger tapestry. It’s at the heart of a friendly debate that he and Michelle have all the time. “She thinks in terms of two or three years,” he says. “And I say, ‘But, sweetie, you have to think 10 or 20 years from now.’” In 20 years, Bernie will be well into his 70s. But his forest will still be young, and it will outlive him. Which presents a bittersweet dilemma: What will happen to the farm after he’s gone? One of his neighbors has an existentialist mantra: “One man’s plan … ,” which is another way of saying that the next person to own your property might not see it for what you do. Bernie’s plan is to put the property into a trust that will prevent anyone from logging it after he dies. He may only be here temporarily, but he’ll always be able to watch over his trees. ANYONE CAN DIG a tree out of the ground. I know this because I’ve done it. I wasn’t satisfied with just cutting down those two plums and an apple in my backyard— Can’t leave behind anything for the little guy to trip on!—so I tore out the stumps, too. They weren’t so much living things as tasks to complete on my way to landscaping perfection. So I hacked and sawed and excavated until I could wrench them free. And then I threw them on the compost pile. To rip a tree from the only home it’s ever known with the goal of keeping it alive takes a special mix of brute force and delicate coaxing. It takes the right tools and methods; clean, sharp shovels make the best cuts and reduce the chances of an infection weakening the roots. It takes an understanding of the growing season; you want to transplant after the ground thaws but before late spring, when the tree wakes from its dormancy and begins replenishing its energy

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stores. In other words, it takes care—something of which I had none and Bernie has a surplus. He’s not perfect. He estimates that 40 percent of his transplants haven’t survived. And he gets legitimately upset when he does that math. But then I remind him that 100 percent would have been turned to mulch had he not taken them, and he brightens. “I’ve never thought of it that way,” he says. “All of them would have been cut down.” I’ll admit, there were moments as I guided the chainsaw through those trunks that I felt … something. Not really guilt because, as I rationalized it then, I paid for that backyard. Instead, maybe it was a fear of what the neighbors thought; they knew the previous owner, an elderly woman who, decades earlier, had raised two boys in that house. Were they judging me for tampering with her little version of perfection? I pushed away the thought and cracked a beer to celebrate the fruits of my labor. At Bernie O’Brien’s farm all these years later, though, standing among the forest that he inherited and augmented, I couldn’t help but think of that woman and those trees. Maybe they meant nothing to her and her husband. Maybe they planted them without thinking about how big they’d really get. Maybe they hated them. But what if she picked the apples to bake pies that cooled on the kitchen windowsill? What if he loved birds and hung feeders from the plums’ branches? What if their boys played tag back there, chasing each other around the trunks and hiding in the high branches? Not every tree is special. Even Bernie knows that. They all have a history, though, even if we can’t see it. Matthew Halverson has written for Conde Nast Traveler, Seattle Met, and St. Louis Magazine. He lives in Seattle. Share your own arboreal anecdotes with him at matt.halverson@gmail.com.

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Elevate Your Travel Plans

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This winter, explore dramatic depths and reach new heights, from 190' below sea level to 12,998' into the clouds. / by tommie ethington

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-190'

Marvel at Millions of Stars

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STAN MONIZ PHOTOGRAPHY/TANDEMSTOCK.COM

/ Death Valley National Park, California It may seem counterintuitive, but one of the lowest points in the Western Hemisphere is a prime spot for out-of-thisworld stargazing. With its 3 million-plus acres, Death Valley is the largest International Dark Sky Park in the United States. November through April, rangers at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center break out four highpowered telescopes and lead space-related programming. The best time to go? Right around the new moon.

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elevated travel

33'

Uncover an Arts Scene

/ New York City

13'

Submerse Yourself in History

/ Groton, Connecticut

The NYC Subway Art Tour isn’t your typical gallery walk. When above-ground temps dip below freezing, join Bronx native Darryl Reilly as he takes both tourists and New Yorkers on a three-hour trainhopping exploration of the Big Apple’s impressive—but often overlooked—art collection. Embellishing the city’s subway stations, designs range from miniature bronze sculptures to whimsical wall mosaics, and each of the 300-plus works commissioned by the Metropolitan Transportation Authority tell a story.

79'

Revisit the Ice Age

/ Williston, Florida Stalactites and fossils adorn the walls and ceiling of Devil’s Den Spring Spring, a prehistoric cave turned scuba diving training center an hour and a half from Orlando. Snorkel in crystal-clear, 72-degree water, or plunge to its maximum depth 54 feet below.

Helmed by the U.S. Navy, the Submarine Force Library & Museum offers a dive into the depths of the “Silent Service.” Compare scale models, peer through a periscope, and board the decommissioned USS Nautilus, the world’s first operational nuclear-powered submarine.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LCDR R. PRESTON, USN (SUBMARINE)

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249' 230 FIFTH ROOFTOP BAR New York City December through March, enjoy spiced whiskey cocktails and rum-spiked apple cider at this pop-up igloo bar with skyline views.

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The nation’s only cave distillery makes vodka, whiskey, and gin. If you find yourself in Kansas City on the second Saturday of the month, be sure to stop by for a tour.

Accessed via Park City Mountain Resort’s Quittin’ Time run, the world’s only ski-in, skiout distillery delights with whiskey flights, craft beers, and flaky chicken pot pies.

Los Angeles L.A.’s original urban winery celebrates 100 years with tours and wines produced with grapes from the Riboli family’s estate vineyards in Paso Robles, Monterey, and Napa.

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1,213'

Go Spelunking

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Zip Around Underground

/ Louisville Set in a former limestone quarry, Louisville Mega Cavern makes the most of 17 miles of subterranean passageways with an aerial ropes course, a BMX park, and the world’s only fully underground zip line.

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Carol in a Cave

/ Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio A short drive from Columbus, the horseshoe-shaped Ash Cave serves as a backdrop for the park’s annual holiday celebration. On Dec. 9, meet Santa, belt out holiday tunes, and help decorate a snow-covered tree with edible ornaments for wildlife.

1,860' Ditch the Indoor Rink

/ Lake Placid, New York During colder months, the town’s Mirror Lake becomes a natural ice skating rink with panoramic views of the Adirondack Mountains. More than 2 miles of track provide ample room for cross-country skiing, dog sledding, or your own Miracle on Ice moment.

3,000'

Feast Mountainside / Carrabassett Valley, Maine About halfway up Sugarloaf Mountain Resort’s western face, Bullwinkle’s is the ideal spot for a mid-run snack. Saturday nights after the lifts close, an 18-passenger snowcat carries diners up the mountain for the restaurant’s candlelit six-course affair. Seasonal delicacies include elk with elderberry demi-glace and handmade raviolis stuffed with—what else?—Maine lobster.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LOUISVILLE MEGA CAVERN, SUGARLOAF

453'

Tubular soda straws and furry kinkajous— this park’s geological features and fauna evoke visions of another planet. And while the 5,600 acres of tropical dry forest are remarkable, the most impressive thing lies beneath. Terciopelo Cave is one of 42-known caverns and is best experienced during the dry season (November through April). For a small fee, you’ll get admission, gear, and a local guide.

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Bullwinkle’s

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/ Phoenix Arizona Balloon Safaris begin at dawn, but the views are worth the early wake-up call. Once airborne, the 20-passenger balloon (the largest in the country), rises up to 5,000 feet above the illuminated desert, offering glimpses of cactuses, critters, and—on a clear day—views of Flagstaff some 130 miles away. To top it off, the 45-minute flight concludes with a champagne brunch.

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4,800' Explore an Icy Wonderland

/ Lava Beds National Monument, California Of the monument’s nearly 800 “lava tubes,” 20 stay frozen year-round. To experience giant icicles, snowflake-like fringe, and the 50-foot drop into Crystal Ice Cave, Cave snag a coveted spot on one of the rangerled tours, held January through March.

/ Ojo Caliente, New Mexico In the shadow of Pueblo ruins, Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa maintains 11 pools fed by a subterranean volcanic aquifer. Day passes start at $24, so don’t feel guilty about adding on a spa treatment (or two). The salt scrub with blue corn and prickly pear is said to improve circulation and rid the body of impurities.

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6,253'

Soak in a MileHigh Hot Spring

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRETA RYBUS

/ Stanley, Idaho Blink and you might miss it. Three hours from Boise, up State Highway 75 north of Stanley, there is a small pull-off in the middle of a bend near milepost 192. Park and climb down the rocky hillside to where a tub—nicknamed “Boat Box Hot Springs” by the locals—awaits. Fair warning: The water is a steamy 136 degrees, so cool it off with a few buckets from the glacier-fed Salmon River before hopping in.

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8,200'

Traverse the 12,998' “American Alps” Dangle Over the Rockies

/ Breckenridge, Colorado

7,100'

See a ManMade Marvel

/ Puebla, Mexico

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The Great Pyramid of Cholula is the world’s largest-known monument, but until its rediscovery in 1910, it went unnoticed for centuries. The reason? It’s hidden under dirt, thick vegetation, and a Spanish-Colonial church. See an excavated portion, glimpse artifacts at the on-site museum, and trek through 5 miles of underground tunnels.

/ Cascade Mountains, Washington The adrenaline rush that comes from dropping out of a helicopter to shred untouched powder is hard to beat. A little more than three hours from Seattle, North Cascade Heli takes experienced skiers and snowboarders into the backcountry. The price tag is steep but promises seven runs a day and access to 300,000 acres of challenging terrain.

Before Breckenridge Ski Resort built the Imperial Express SuperChair, the highest perChair high-speed quad chairlift in North America, it was a 45-minute hike to the top. Now, you can access those same double-black diamond runs in just under three minutes.

7,236'

Race Down an Olympic Bobsled Chute

/ Park City, Utah Fly down the course that ferried athletes to fame in the 2002 Winter Olympics. At Park, Utah Olympic Park a pro tutors you in techniques and helps your team reach speeds of almost 70 miles an hour.

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From an over-water oasis to a plush treehouse in the forest, these escapes offer the perfect home base for a winter getaway.

208'

3'

Liberty Hotel

Bayou Haven Bed & Breakfast

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7'

The Old Man and The Sea Ocean Villas

/ Savaneta, Aruba This tropical hideaway features three villas suspended on stilts over the Caribbean Sea, and each comes with a private deck, an in-suite wine cooler, and a full breakfast. From $540

/ Boston This swanky Beacon Hill hotel has mastered the art of the flip. Built as the Charles Street Jail in 1851, it housed some of Beantown’s most notorious criminals. Now, the historic catwalk links 298 luxurious rooms, and the former “drunk tank” is the Alibi Bar & Lounge. During the holidays, decked-out Christmas trees hang upside down from the ceiling of the 90-foot rotunda. From $389

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADAM CROWLEY (TREEHOUSE), COURTESY OF THE LODGE AT CHAA CREEK

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elevated travel

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TreeHouse Point

/ Issaquah, Washington Owners Pete and Judy Nelson have built an empire with this rustic retreat and nine seasons of the Animal Planet hit Treehouse Masters. Designed around its botanical host, each of the six fully furnished, aboveground bungalows is distinct. Added perks include yoga classes, fresh-baked blueberry scones, and access to year-round hiking trails. From $290

377'

Chaa Creek Luxury Resort

/ San Ignacio, Belize Named after a Mayan moon goddess, the new two-bedroom Ix Chel Villas boast floorto-ceiling windows and a private veranda in the middle of the rainforest. Pay a visit to the resort’s renowned butterfly sanctuary, cool off in the infinity pool, or dine on fresh fruits and veggies picked from the on-site organic farm. Jonesing for an adventure? Your private butler can coordinate everything from birding expeditions to cave tubing. From $699

1,073'

Winvian Farm

/ Morris, Connecticut With its rotor blades embedded in the ceiling, a restored 1968 Sea King Pelican helicopter serves as the centerpiece for the resort’s 890-square-foot Helicopter Cottage. A wood-burning fireplace and Jacuzzi tub complement original accents, like the pilot and co-pilot seats found in the cockpit. From $549

TreeHouse Point

1,124'

Beckham Creek Cave

/ Parthenon, Arkansas It’s rare to find digs where both stalactites and chandeliers hang from the ceiling, but this four-bedroom, four-bath rental marries its natural surroundings with midcentury modern furnishings, a gourmet kitchen, and rainfall shower heads. Outside, explore the Ozark Mountains on horseback or cast a line at the private catchand-release pond. From $1,200

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/ by eric steuer

/ photography by jason madara

I was a painfully sensitive boy, and his actions had lasting effects on me. He made me aware that there were places I didn’t belong and groups I’d never be a part of. / —eric steuer

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/ When I tell

/ The Bully and the Buddhist /

people that, as a kid, I used to punch people, pick on people, and do those kinds of things, they’re shocked. —jeff zlotnik

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Jeff Zlotnik

Eric Steuer

W

hen I tell my dad that I’m on my way to go hang out with Jeff Zlotnik, he laughs. ¶ “Once, when you were a kid, I asked why you were so scared of Jeff. You said, ‘Because he’s so much bigger than me.’” In reality, I was easily a head taller than Jeff. But he was so confident and aggressive that he may as well have been twice my size. Jeff always loomed large in my life. My earliest memory of him is from kindergarten. It was recess, and a bunch of us were playing in the sandbox. I was busy digging up dirt with a little plastic shovel, making tunnels to push toy vehicles through. I’d loaded up a Fisher-Price trolley with action figure passengers and was having a great time. Out of nowhere, Jeff ran up, swiped the toy from me, and threw it out of the sandbox and into the nearby plants. He smiled, but it was a mean smile—Jeff ’s signature smirk. It was the first time I remember feeling like someone wanted to make me feel bad. I went home and cried to my mom. A few years later, Jeff and I were on a soccer team together. During a game, he kicked the ball to me—a rare thing. I wasn’t exactly well-known for my athletic prowess, and Jeff ’s vote of confidence made me feel especially good. But at the last second, I reflexively stopped short of capturing the ball and let it sail past my feet—right into the clutches of a forward on the other team. I knew what was going to happen next, and it did:

Jeff screamed at me, calling me an idiot and an oaf. What hurt the most about it was that I kind of agreed with him. Why didn’t I want to win as much as he did? There were other incidents over the years— the time he told me I couldn’t sit with him and his friends at lunch, the time he picked a fistfight with me in the schoolyard over a girl we both liked. Honestly, none of it was too major—just kids’ stuff. But I was a painfully sensitive boy, the kind of born introvert who preferred Star Wars to sports, and Jeff ’s actions had lasting effects on me. He made me aware that there were places I didn’t belong and groups I’d never be a part of. So, while I’d see Jeff frequently throughout the rest of my childhood—at school, sports, temple, Boy Scouts, and even family gatherings, since our moms ended up becoming good friends —I stopped trying to get him to like me. And by the time we got to high school, I really only observed Jeff as an outsider. He joined the football team, while I made music and took drama classes. I had good friends, but I never quite fit in with the cool kids. I marveled at how Jeff and his crew seemed to have things all figured out, how they seemed to be free of the confusion and self-doubt I often felt.

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/

Eric, photographed on Aug. 31, looks at a picture from his childhood.

/

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After 10 years in downtown San Diego, Jeff discovered he needed more space to accommodate the growing community. Late last year, he found a closed 1927 Swedenborgian church for sale in University Heights and decided to go for it. There was one problem—money. The purchase would require nearly half a million dollars as a down payment; meanwhile, Jeff’s programs operate on a shoestring budget and are fully driven by donations. So he turned to Facebook, using the platform to launch a fundraising drive that he hoped would inspire his family,

J

eff greets me with a big hug at the new home of the Dharma Bum Temple, the meditation and Buddhist study center he runs with his partner.

friends, and community members to help make it happen. For three and a half months, he committed himself full-time to the campaign, waking at 6 a.m. to post the first of each day’s many status updates and donation challenges while exercising on a treadmill, and then winding down in the late evening with motivational quotes and messages of gratitude. Jeff worked harder than he ever had before, and on Valentine’s Day of this year the last

PERSONAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF ERIC STEUER AND JEFF ZLOTNIK

Jeff, age 6

t was a surprise, to say the least, when I first learned that Jeff had gotten deeply into Buddhism. We’d been out of college for a few years when I heard a rumor that a woman we’d grown up with had seen Jeff shopping at the mall, fully decked out in an orange monastic robe. A while later, my mom called me with the news that Jeff had moved to Taiwan temporarily and was living at a monastery, devoting himself to meditation and Buddhist study. I was completely dumbfounded. What in the world led to this? Part of me was skeptical. I’m not even sure exactly what I was skeptical of—that Jeff had become some sort of new man, I guess. But I wasn’t alone. At a friend’s wedding around that time, I ran into one of our elementary school teachers, the woman who’d taught me and Jeff to do fractions and write in cursive. We chatted for a bit, and Jeff’s name came up. “I’ve worked with a lot of kids over the years,” she said, “and you can see who they are at their core by the time they get to my class. I don’t buy his ‘peace and love’ stuff one bit.” Over time, I started hearing about various projects Jeff was devoting his life to. After returning home from Taiwan, he opened a temple free to anyone interested in Buddhism. He started The Meditation Initiative, a nonprofit that offers free classes in places like prisons, homeless shelters, VA hospitals, and sober living centers. He organized a coed service fraternity, Delta Beta Tau, for San Diego college students interested in doing volunteer work. Jeff and I eventually started following each other on Facebook, where he posts a steady stream of affirmations, calls for more kindness in the world, and reminders to friends about life’s preciousness. As I followed Jeff online and learned more about his activities, I went from incredulous to intrigued. There was no doubt, it seemed, that Jeff had found his true calling, and that he was all in. On a whim, I sent him an email to ask if he’d be interested in spending some time together. I wanted to hear about his journey. He told me he was glad I’d reached out and that he’d love to reconnect. He invited me to visit him.

Eric, age 6

I

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donation he needed to meet his goal rolled in online. Local media covered the campaign’s incredible success, and numerous fundraising consultants contacted Jeff to tap him for his secrets. “It was the greatest Buddhist practice I’ve ever done in my life,” Jeff says. “Because every single moment, there was something that needed to be done. And all that could be done in that moment was the one thing that was needed.” The temple is beautiful, about 6,000 square feet, with a perfect combination of wide-open convening spaces and small alcoves for reading and intimate discussions. It was important to Jeff to retain the church’s historical and religious features, so the large cross that adorns the entrance and the pews inside the congregation

area remain intact. During my visit, several people from the neighborhood drop in. A longtime resident who read in the newspaper about the temple’s relocation says hello and signs the guest book. A homeless man stops by to relax and ask some questions. Jeff tells him the temple is open to all. He takes me around to meet some of the people currently living in the temple. They’re of all shapes and sizes and walks of life. I talk to a mom in her 50s wearing a tie-dye sweatshirt, and then a guy in his late teens, hunched over a sheet of paper, drawing possible logos for the temple. Jeff tells me that the beauty of this community is that it’s filled with people who are leaders themselves— residents and other community members routinely teach meditation to anyone who shows up. His goal is to be completely dispensable, for it to be possible for the temple to run without him. Jeff’s demeanor is calmer, much looser than what I remember from when we were kids. He smiles a lot and often seems to be on the verge of laughing. He listens intently when people speak, then replies deliberately, always making eye contact. I tell him that while it’s really nice to see him in this environment, it’s also kind of jarring—almost like something out of a dream. He’s not surprised to hear this. “Yeah, I mean when I tell the people here that, as a kid, I used to punch people, pick on people, and do those kinds of things, they’re shocked,” he says. “It’s like, ‘Who, you?’ They can’t believe it.” It’s oddly validating to hear Jeff say this. Because I’d started to second guess myself and wonder if I’d just made up a convenient narrative about him, telling it to myself over and over, adding small details each time, until it was essentially divorced from reality. But the way Jeff describes himself as a kid is remarkably in line with my memories. “It’s weird, I know,” he says with a chuckle. “But you just never know what people are dealing with inside.”

Jeff in high school

Eric in high school

“It’s weird, I know,” Jeff says. “But you just never know what people are dealing with inside.”

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A

fter high school, Jeff went away to college at the University of Arizona. Not long after he arrived, he began looking for a fraternity to join. One house in particular seemed like the best fit—the guys in it were jocks with a reputation for partying hard. But just before he pledged, Jeff ran into a friend from back home who was a couple years older. He suggested that Jeff give his fraternity a look. Beta Theta Pi was known as “the gentleman’s fraternity,” and its members were expected to be polite, respectful, and positive contributors to the local community. While it wasn’t what he had in mind for himself when he got to school, Jeff was drawn to it for some reason, and joined soon after. Through the Beta house, Jeff started doing community work and, in his junior year, began

/

Eric and Jeff, during their senior year of high school

/

volunteering in a group home for teenage girls. The experience was harrowing, and it opened his eyes to the reality that many people do not enjoy anything like the comfortable life he’d always known. Some of the kids had been sexually abused. Others had been helping their parents deal drugs since elementary school. “I’d only seen things like it in movies,” Jeff says. “I realized I hadn’t done much thinking about people that weren’t like me.” Around that same time, Jeff was exposed to Buddhism through a college class. He was surprised by how deeply the teachings resonated with him. “It was all new to me, and it was hard to put into words how much it inspired me,” he says. After graduation, Jeff moved to Philadelphia to begin a career in business consulting. Then, around the time of the dot-com boom, he found his way back to San Diego, where he consulted remotely for tech companies in Silicon Valley. He was good at the work and made a lot of money doing it. He had a nice car and a big loft downtown. He went to trendy restaurants during the week and partied with friends at clubs on the weekends. But a few years into his career, Jeff, then 27, began to notice feelings of emptiness, dissatisfaction, and even depression creeping up. A childhood friend had become casually interested in Buddhism and was occasionally visiting a local temple, Hsi-Fang, to take meditation classes. She remembered that Jeff had talked a lot about his brief introduction to Buddhism back in college. She could tell that Jeff was struggling, that he wasn’t happy despite his successful career. So, one day, she invited him to join her. Jeff loved everything about the temple. The warmth he felt there, and the focus on wisdom, morality, and mindfulness. He told himself he would return immediately for more. “But life got in the way,” he says. “And I didn’t make time to go back.” Then, one night, a few months later, Jeff was out with friends. While waiting in line to get inside a club, a brief but intense wave of sadness and panic

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washed over him. He had something resembling a vision. “It was a flash, just 20 seconds long,” he says. “But I could see every detail of what my entire night was going to be like: I’m going to pay this doorman way too much money so I can get in the VIP section. I’m going to drink too much and chase some girl around. And then I’ll wake up tomorrow and I’ll feel like absolute crap and totally empty.” And that was exactly how that night played out—scene for scene. So, the next morning, nursing a

J

eff spent the next two years going to the temple almost every day, and even moved into a small cottage nearby so he’d be just steps away. He meditated, read, and participated in HsiFang’s community volunteer programs. He felt like he’d found his purpose. Then, at the end of 2004, Jeff’s teacher, the Venerable Yi-Jih, presented him with an opportunity: Move to the temple’s monastery in Taiwan to study there. Without hesitation, Jeff packed up and lived for the next

/

He listened to people tell him that he’d hurt them. He didn’t make excuses; he just heard them out. wicked hangover and knowing he wanted something greater out of life, Jeff decided to return to HsiFang Temple for another visit.

What we lacked in experience, we made up for with an entrepreneurial spirit to fulfill a growing need in our community.

Franchisees Meagan and Brian Van Dyck with their family

year at Fo Guang Shan, Taiwan’s largest Buddhist monastery and the home to one of the area’s largest philanthropic organizations.

/

The monks and nuns Jeff lived with at Fo Guang Shan devoted themselves fully to practicing kindness and performing charity. “There’s this notion that Buddhist practice is all about sitting under a tree, smoking dope, and talking about the infinite levels of the universe,” he says. “But they were the hardest-working people I’d ever seen in my life. They put me on a path to be as compassionate in each moment as possible.” Eventually Yi-Jih told Jeff it was time to go back home. “She said I needed to figure out how to integrate what I’d learned there into the culture where I grew up.” Jeff returned to San Diego on a mission to use Buddhist teachings to help alleviate suffering in the people around him. He started volunteering in prisons and juvenile detention centers. He took over a gift shop called Buddha for You and sold Buddhist books and meditation supplies. He led meditation classes and began building

They did all their homework Meagan worked in human resources. Brian worked as an oil and gas drilling consultant overseeing drilling locations in Texas. Between the two of them, neither of the Van Dycks had a résumé of expertise in the field of educational child care. Nor did they have entrepreneurial experience running an independently owned and operated business. But what they lacked in experience, they made up for with a zealous spirit and in doing all their homework to fulfill a growing need in their community. With highlighters and post-it notes in hand, Meagan read the 222-page Texas state child care standards… four times. “I’m a rule follower,” said Meagan. “So I wanted to know the state regulations in our industry so we could exceed expectations. Some might be surprised to know we’re self-taught, but if you judged a book by its cover, you’d think we know exactly what we’re doing, because we do. Because we did all our homework, we have confidence parents are looking for.”

The couple researched seven different franchise concepts over six months before deciding to open a school with Kiddie Academy. Kiddie Academy is a professional, award-winning and accredited child care company, and the franchisor also met a personal standard: the organization aligned with Meagan and Brian’s values, ethics and commitment to their community. The Van Dyck’s chose to build their community in a “small, big town” near Texas A&M University at the Kiddie Academy of College Station. Meagan and Brian were aware of the challenges of venturing into an unknown-for-them industry, but knew they would succeed with the support of Kiddie Academy, their experienced and knowledgeable franchisor. Brian says parents often tell them, “this is where y’all belong.” Learn about Kiddie Academy at www.FranchiseKA.com or by calling 410-777-5352.

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a community at the Dharma Bum Temple. He was driven. “I knew I was still a powerful person, someone who wanted to win,” he says. “But there’s nothing to win in Buddhism. So, I figured I’d use that part of my personality to make positive change, after having affected people negatively for a long time.”

A

few years ago, at our 20-year high school reunion, Jeff had what he calls a come-to-Jesus moment. He arrived alone at the downtown San Diego hotel ballroom that hosted the gathering. For weeks, he’d been looking forward to seeing what had become of our old classmates. Early on in the night, someone Jeff had picked on pretty badly in high school walked up to him. “Hey, I saw on Facebook that you’re doing all this Buddhist stuff, and it’s really great,” she said. “But can you tell me why you were so mean

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to me when we were kids?” Another woman approached next, beer in hand. She took a

others. Most people were fascinated by it. Some seemed amused. I heard one woman, who Jeff had

/

“You kept looking at me,” the boy said hesitantly. “And I felt like you were looking right into my head.”

/

breath and downed a big sip. She wanted to know the same thing. Ultimately, Jeff’s night turned into a series of conversations on this theme. He listened to people tell him that he’d hurt them. He didn’t make excuses; he just heard them out. And then he apologized as openly and honestly as he could. I walked from group to group that night, hearing all kinds of people talk to each other about how strange and surprising it was that Jeff Zlotnik—yes, Jeff Zlotnik —now devoted his life to Buddhism, meditation, and helping

been particularly awful to, say she was “so proud” of him. I admired her grace, but for some reason, it also aggravated me. I didn’t want her to accept his apology so easily. Later in the evening, Jeff took me aside and told me he was sorry if he’d ever hurt my feelings. I told him I appreciated the apology, but that it was unnecessary—that I barely remembered any of it. But the truth is that the apology made me feel small, like the fact that I still cared at all about this ancient junk really just meant that Jeff continued to have

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an unreasonable, embarrassing amount of power over me. A couple times when I’ve gotten together with Jeff this year, he’s brought up the conversations he had at our reunion. He talks about them in a way that suggests, at least to me, that while he knows they were important to people, he might not fully grasp just how life-changing they likely were. “I was surprised that anyone knew as much as they did about what

I’d been up to,” Jeff says to me one day in the small library inside the Dharma Bum Temple. “I didn’t expect they would care.” “But of course they care,” I tell him. And then I think to myself that if they’re anything like me, they’ve been paying too close attention to his story over the past few years, hoping that learning more about the path he chose might help them glean some kind of understanding about

themselves. The next time I see Jeff, he shares a memory he’s ashamed of. When we were 15, he and some other boys roughed up a kid, someone we’d all known since we were little. They pushed and shoved him around, laughing at him in front of a bunch of other kids. Recently, he came in to the temple, briefly, just to look around. He and Jeff had a light, friendly chat—almost as if there were no awkward history between them. At the time, Jeff didn’t think too much of it. But after further consideration, he has another take. “I understand why he came in to see me,” Jeff says. “So he could see that me being mean to him wasn’t about his worth; it was about mine. It wasn’t him; it was me.”

T

ypically, when jeff travels to deliver his talks at schools, jails, hospitals, and treatment centers, he wears a dress shirt, slacks, and a vest. He calls this his “professional look,” and it’s designed to put people at ease. “I want everyone to know that I’m no different than them,” he says. “If I show up in robes, it might make people who aren’t familiar with this stuff feel like it’s foreign or strange, or like I think I’m holier than thou.” Jeff spends a lot of his time these days with young people, going into high schools to talk about the benefits of meditation. He says kids in the 15- to 18-year-old range are his favorite to work with. Because they’re dealing with so much new stress and complexity in their lives, they have so much to gain by learning to focus and improve their emotional well-being. He tells me about a recent visit to a school just a few miles north of where we grew up. From the floor of the auditorium, Jeff spoke to a large group of students about anger and his experiences discovering meditation. Jeff is a natural when it comes to public speaking,

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and he’s had tons of practice. The kids listened attentively. Soon, he noticed a boy sitting off to the side, slightly apart from the rest of the group. Something about him felt familiar. “Just the look in his eye, the body language,” Jeff says. “I could tell he was angry and really suffering.” Jeff shifted his focus, making frequent eye contact with the boy as he spoke to the gathering. He felt like he might be able to help with whatever the

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kid was going through—and, consequently, maybe save some of the people in the boy’s life from being affected by his acting out. “All of a sudden, I had this memory from when I was in school,” Jeff says. “I could see myself going up and tearing out these plants that one of my teachers had in the front of her classroom. For no good reason— just to get a reaction.” After the talk, the boy stayed behind and approached Jeff for a

one-on-one. “You kept looking at me,” the boy said hesitantly. “And I felt like you were looking right into my head.” “I know exactly who you are,” Jeff laughed. “Because I am you.”

J

eff and I hang out again, this time in San Francisco, where I live with my wife and son. He’s come up north to officiate a friend’s wedding in Yosemite. Unfortunately, there’s been a fire in the area, and the nuptials have been postponed. Since he’s got a free evening, we get tea and walk around town, talking. He’s as busy as ever. Things are feeling more settled with the temple’s relocation, and lots of new people are stopping by. The Meditation Initiative is getting calls from groups all over San Diego. School’s back in session, and Delta Beta Tau’s latest pledges are taking on new volunteer projects around the city. As usual, our discussion eventually leads back to the old days. I tell him that I recently realized I’ve been avoiding talking to him about one important thing: the effect he had on me when we were growing up. I’ve been keeping the details about my own feelings pretty vague, slyly playing the role of an objective outsider whenever we get together to talk. In large part because, quite frankly, I’m not sure that he would even remember any of the specific incidents that I’ve been holding on to so closely for all these years. It’s embarrassing to imagine bringing them up, only to have him reply with a blank look. He encourages me to go through my list, so I do. The sandbox, the soccer field, the schoolyard. Just as I figured, none of them ring a bell. I’m actually relieved, and I tell him that while I know that the events in my memories sound like super small things, they were huge factors in shaping how I felt about myself for a long time. “Looking back on myself as a kid,” he says, “I can tell you that

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anything bad I said or did to you wasn’t actually meant to make you feel any certain way. I was doing it to make myself feel a certain way. Does that make sense?” “Yeah,” I say. “It makes sense.” I share the anecdote about our elementary school teacher, the woman who told me she believed kids were, at their core, pretty much who they’d always be by the time she met them. Jeff winces, and then laughs. “It’d be pretty sad

/

Jeff shares an ice cream cone with Eric’s son, Franklin, in San Francisco this summer.

/

if that was the case, wouldn’t it?” But he quickly follows up with an additional thought. “I am the

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same person, I guess,” he says. “It’s not that my thoughts are necessarily different—it’s that my actions are. Buddhist teachings haven’t changed who I am, but they’ve changed what I do.” He offers his favorite quote by Shunryū Suzuki, the monk who popularized Zen Buddhism in the United States: “You’re all perfect exactly how you are. And you all could use a little improvement.” After dinner at an Indian restaurant with my family in the Mission, we walk to an ice cream shop. Jeff buys a pistachio cone for himself and a strawberry cone for my son, Franklin. He’s 4 years old, just a little younger than Jeff and I were when we first met. The two of them sit on a bench in front of the shop, eating ice cream in the warm night. Franklin looks so sweet, and I find myself thinking about how much I want him to stay this way forever. But I also want something else for him: the power to assert himself and not be so sensitive that he gets bowled over by people who are mean to him. Because people will, of course, be mean to him, and there’s no good reason that these moments should hang around in his head forever. I snap a photo of Jeff and Franklin eating ice cream together. They’ve both got huge smiles— each has found a friend for life. It’s a funny picture, and for me it’s also strange and profound. It’s a picture I could never have imagined when I was growing up. It’s a picture I’ll never let go of. Eric Steuer is a contributing editor at Wired. Share your childhood stories at steusrus@gmail.com.

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E T S A T

Medium 2

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Tool Time BY DOUG PETERSON

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Effective all-natural topicals Our products may help: Relieve Muscle Pain Restore Tired Muscles Relieve Muscle Soreness

32

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USE PROMO CODE SW817

31

48

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OFF YOUR ORDER!

30

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13

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45

12

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37

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40%

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Crossword

46 Business traveler’s

13 Trike rider 18 Weather forecaster's

23 Bridge player’s

purchase 49 Cold feet, so to speak 50 FDR’s successor 51 Not yet sunk 54 Flexible blackjack cards 56 Spot for a mineral scrub 59 Boot camp trainer 62 Computer support? 63 Dark film genre 64 Land once ruled by Cleopatra 65 Broadway backgrounds 66 ___ surgeon 67 Upside-down nines

24 Ken or Lena of

Down

43 Bygone anesthetic 47 Mexican-American,

phenomenon 3 Beauty and the Beast star Watson 4 Objective 5 Suitable for a postcard 6 Kerry or McCain 7 Swedish furniture retailer 8 Garment with cups and straps 9 Equestrian’s seat 10 Lindsay of Mean Girls 11 Where many browsers shop 12 Terrarium plant

48 Topics of debate 49 Ordinary people 51 Goes on to say 52 Priceless? 53 Schindler’s ___ 54 Gobi Desert’s locale 55 Bottom-row PC key 56 “Come Sail Away”

Answers on page 98 Across

1 Regions 6 Triangular sails 10 Didn’t stick around 14 Nightclub performer 15 Gumbo vegetable 16 Do as directed 17 Ocean predator 20 Memorable period

of history

21 Granny 22 Johnson also known

as “The Rock”

declaration Hollywood

25 Folder holder 30 Held a conference 33 Condo division 34 Julius Caesar setting 35 Tearful one 37 Blitzen’s boss 39 Marked a ballot,

maybe

40 Cavill who plays

Superman

41 Do a little

housekeeping

Soothe PMS Pain

42 Parakeet’s home 44 Without a

Relieve Joint Pain

45 Currency in Kobe

guarantee

1 Pain from a strain 2 Waterfall

tool

19 On/off control 23 Davis with 10 Oscar

nominations

24 Stressed out 25 Detail-oriented 26 Totally impressed 27 Napkin material 28 Freight train part 29 “To put it more

clearly ...”

30 Capital of Belarus 31 Like some

coincidences

32 Lovers’ rendezvous 36 Flinch, perhaps 38 Take to a higher

court

for example

band

57 Leader guarded by

the Swiss Guard

58 Graphic ___ 60 Neither partner 61 High-tech film

effects, briefly

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Preserving The Past

Oak Alley Plantation Vacherie, Louisiana

Dedicated to preserving and interpreting 200+ years of history, Oak Alley Plantation invites you to explore 25 historic acres and exhibits, including Slavery at Oak Alley, the “Big House”, the Civil War Tent, and Sugarcane Theater. Visit OakAlleyPlantation.org

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Houmas House Plantation & Gardens Darrow, Louisiana

Crossword Answers Stuck? Try these tips, and tweet us yours @SouthwestTheMag #mycrosswordtips. Start at the top Try answering the opening “Across” clues first; they’ll give you the first letter of many down clues, making those easier to answer. Fill in the blanks The clues that include “___” tend to be easier, so tackle those early on. Tense matters If the clue is in the past tense, for instance, the answer will be, too.

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Be aware of abbreviations If the clue is abbreviated, so will the answer.

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I N A W E

A D D S

F R E E

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I B S L K R A O E A D S H A D W A O L I N I N E T M E C R E D H E A G E A N E T I C H S T A C E S S T R U C I R E G A L S I

E B A Y

F E R N

T Y K E

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ATL • AUS • BNA • BUF • BWI • CMH • DAL • DEN • DFW • EWR • HOU • IAH • JFK • LAX • LGA • MCI • MCO • PHL • PHX • PIT • STL

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SPIRIT OF ARIZONA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SPIRIT

OF

ARIZONA

The Grand Canyon State is a playground for families who love active vacations, thrill-seekers attracted to adventure, and history buffs delighted by the region’s ancient past. Follow the road less traveled, and you’re sure to find experiences that fit exactly what you’re looking for.

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See a performance a thousand years in the making. YELLOW BIRD HOOP DANCER, SCOTTSDALE, AZ

Hit the open road. Discover the Arizona less traveled. ExploreMoreAZ.com or call 1.877.827.6268

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SPIRIT OF ARIZONA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Butterfly Wonderland

Talking Stick Resort

Salt River Fields

ENDLESS ACTIVITIES Arizona’s tribal lands are home to 22 sovereign American Indian populations. These communities welcome travelers to learn about their centuries-old traditions, hear stories that have been passed down for generations, and explore a multitude of natural wonders, all while enjoying modern entertainment and unbeatable recreational offerings. Short on time? You don’t have to leave the Phoenix metropolitan area. The Salt River Pima–Maricopa Indian Community is composed of two tribes: the Pima, or River People, and the Mari-

copa, or People Who Live Toward the Water. Together, they’ve created Talking Stick Resort, a vacationer’s paradise in Scottsdale. Swing by the Talking Stick Visitor Center and Huhugam Ki Museum for insight into the history of the tribes’ lands and culture, and to view artifacts and demonstrations that highlight the community’s artistic prowess in basket weaving and clay pottery. Then, it’s on to Talking Stick Resort for the stylish casino, relaxing spa, trendy dining options, and rotating lineup of hit concerts and shows, all within view of the Sonoran Desert

and surrounding mountains. In Scottsdale, activities abound for every type of traveler. Sports lovers can catch spring training baseball games at Salt River Fields, or practice their swing at Talking Stick Golf Club or the family-friendly Topgolf. Get up close with nature at the OdySea Aquarium, the largest aquarium in the Southwest, or marvel at monarchs and more than 3,000 butterflies at the indoor Butterfly Wonderland. If you’re in need of a little retail therapy, head to The Pavilions at Talking Stick.

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Skeg Tas (Good Day!) Experience the heritage of hospitality of the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community. We invite you to relax, shop, dine, play and stay with us at Talking Stick, a Cultural and Entertainment Destination. Conveniently located just off the 101 freeway, 15 minutes from Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport.

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SPIRIT OF ARIZONA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

MONUMENTAL BEAUTY

Lake Powell

When people think of classic Southwestern landscapes, they often visualize the stunning lands of the Navajo Nation, home to the towering formations of Monument Valley. The reservation is the country’s largest, sharing land across three states and encompassing some of the most intriguing and colorful rock formations in Arizona. Adventurers, artists, photographers, and nature lovers flock here to see all manner of man-made and natural wonders, from the ancient ruins clinging to cliffs at Navajo National Monument to the otherworldly wavelike features of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. Tours on foot or horseback, led by a member of the tribe, are a popular way to see the sights through the eyes of the lands’ caretakers. At Canyon de Chelly National Monument, you can find Navajo families raising livestock and tending farmlands on the longest continuously inhabited area in the Colorado Plateau. The Navajo Nation’s rich history is also on display at the Explore Navajo Interactive Museum, which details everything from the tribe’s ancient past to the contributions of individual veterans to U.S. history, including the famous Navajo Code Talkers of World War II.

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ADVENTURE WONDERLAND The town of Page makes for a great jumping-off point in the northwestern part of Navajo land. If you’re a fan of water sports, rent a Jet Ski, kayak, paddle board, or boat and explore the deep blue reservoir and steep canyon walls of Lake Powell. Want to get a closer look at the engineering that makes Lake Powell possible? Take an all-ages rafting trip near the Glen Canyon Dam, or visit Page’s Powell Museum, where free exhibits highlight the history and geology of the Colorado River, as well native artifacts and local paleontological finds. On your way out, stop by the gift shop to pick up authentic souvenirs.

Both amateur and professional photographers alike will appreciate the area’s stunning photo backdrops. Horseshoe Bend ranks among the most popular photo ops in the state, with a curving ribbon of the Colorado River contrasting against the deep red rocks of the canyon. Antelope Canyon can be harder to navigate, but the picturesque scenery makes it worth the effort. Wander along pinkdirt paths and stare up in amazement as the sun shines through the slot canyon’s twisted sculptural stone walls. Once you’ve seen the reservation by land, consider taking it in from a complete-

Lake Powell

ly different point of view. From Page, you can take airplane or helicopter tours of the surrounding area. See how the sandstone cliffs contrast with the turquoise waters of Lake Powell and the Colorado River, and follow the river all the way

down to the Grand Canyon. If you’re feeling really adventurous, take the leap with a Grand Canyon skydiving experience—the views alone are something you’ll never forget.

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10/6/17 11:27 AM


SPIRIT OF RENO-TAHOE SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SPIRIT

OF

RENO-TAHOE

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF VISITRENOTAHOE.COM

Dazzling in winter, Reno and Lake Tahoe are the ultimate vacation spots. Speed down the Sierra Nevadas at a legendary ski resort, try your luck at the casinos, and find a cozy spot to call home while you’re in town. By Laura Burkehart

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Reno Tahoe is a study in contrast. It’s where America’s largest alpine lake collides with the Biggest Little City in the World. Where you can rock climb in the heart of downtown or rock out on top of a mountain. Work hard and play harder. Here, we don’t do one dimensional. And neither should you.

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9/11/17 12:32 PM 9/20/17 9:47 AM


SPIRIT OF RENO-TAHOE SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Eldorado Resort and Casino

Downtown Reno

Crafts for Christmas

The Silver State’s third-largest city boasts spectacular shows, abundant seasonal activities, and the ever-present draw of the casinos.

DO

During Thanksgiving weekend, Nugget Casino Resort hosts its annual Crafts for Christmas event. Browse more than 100 booths, and take in culinary demonstrations, dance performances, and floral arrangement exhibitions. During the day, local youth bands serenade shoppers with holiday classics, but

at night, singers and television personalities perform in the Celebrity Showroom and Nugget Ballroom. See Martin Nievera on Nov. 18 and comedian Jay Leno on Nov. 25. Another popular holiday event is the Reno Santa Pub Crawl, now in its 17th year. On Dec. 9, don your best red suit and head to downtown Reno to join more than 12,000 revelers in raising money for local schools.

SEE

Each year, the Reno Chamber Orchestra puts on the Nevada Chamber Music Festival at various concert halls and churches throughout the city. Delight in compositions by Bach performed by candlelight, or listen to concertos set against a backdrop of poinsettias and lighted trees.

STAY

Eldorado Resort and Casino offers classic gaming and worldclass entertainment. Running Nov. 21 through Dec. 31, The Unbelievables Christmas extravaganza pulls out all the stops. Enjoy carols and performances by ballroom dancers, magicians, and a variety of circus acts. Other can’t-miss shows include comedians Tim Meadows, Rodney Carrington, and Jo Koy, as well as musical performances by Dwight Yoakam and 98°.

SAVOR

Located downtown in a charming house on the Truckee River, Beaujolais Bistro pairs its homey ambience with fine French-focused cuisine. For starters, order a classic charcuterie plate and the Cerise Buck— the restaurant’s twist on the cocktail includes vodka, cherry cordial, and ginger beer.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DDUB3429 /ISTOCK (DOWNTOWN RENO)

RENO

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Anaheim Majestic Garden Hotel. Conveniently located just minutes from Pluto. The day starts a lot easier when you wake up in our spacious room just minutes from Disneyland® Resort. It gets Majestic with breakfast and a free Dream Machine Shuttle just down the hall. That’s the bright-eyed way to vacation with the family. 900 South Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, CA 92802

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Steps from All Things Tahoe Smack dab in the middle of everything Lake Tahoe is an all-suite resort with doors that open to every adventure imaginable. Free breakfast, two-room suites, and a staff committed to helping you enjoy Tahoe like a local. Visit TahoeResortHotel.com for best rates & packages.

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Save More, Ski More at Diamond Peak Get 50% off a 1-day standard ski/snowboard rental package when you show your airline boarding pass (Arrival destinations of Reno/Tahoe, Sacramento, San Jose or San Francisco dated within the last two weeks.)

Diamond Peak Ski Resort

TAHOE

Majestic mountains, a crystalline blue lake, and top-notch dining and shopping make Lake Tahoe the perfect rustic retreat.

DO

With more than 180 lifts and 500 runs, Reno and Lake Tahoe boast the highest concentration of ski resorts in North America. The best part? Almost all of the resorts are within an hour of Reno-Tahoe International Airport. Activities include skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and sledding, plus other off-slopes fun. Diamond Peak Ski Resort’s new Lakeview run offers some of the best views of the brilliantly blue Lake Tahoe. Enjoy six chairlifts, 30 runs, and a maximum elevation of 8,540 feet. Families will love the beginner terrain parks and kid-friendly prices (children 6 and under ski for free). Born around the holidays? Diamond Peak’s gift to you is a free birthday lift ticket with proof of ID. Although the ski season begins winding down in March, the fun doesn’t have to end. Diamond Peak and other resorts welcome spring with the North Lake Tahoe SnowFest. The 10-day festival includes parades, a snow sculpture contest, and the ever-popular Polar Bear Swim.

10/6/17 9:03 AM


IT’S A VACATION

STAY

Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel, next to Heavenly Village, offers comfortable rooms, views of the lake, and easy access to skiing, dining, and shopping. The hotel’s lofty atrium has a dual-sided fireplace with plenty of seating, and each two-room suite comes with a free breakfast buffet and a nightly happy hour. A twominute walk from the hotel, the Heavenly Scenic Gondola will ferry you to the top of the mountain for panoramic views of the lake, Carson Valley, and nearby Desolation Wilderness. After your ride, head to the Chateau at the Village, where you can dine at one of several restaurants and stock up on souvenirs. Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel

THING

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SAVOR

Enjoy an elegant dinner in a classic lodge setting at Lone Eagle Grille. Gaze over the private beach as the sun sinks into the mountains, and sip on a Winter Spiced Sidecar or a Hot Tahoe Toddy. Either cocktail pairs well with the seared La Belle Farm foie gras.

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Marketplace ADVERTISEMENT

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The Guide

GET IN THIS SCENE

San Diego

1 At Southwestvacations.com®, book your flight to San Diego. 2 Add on ex-

cursions and activities, like a visit to the San Diego Zoo. 3 Take advantage of the city’s natural beauty and visit one of the area’s scenic beaches. DID YOU KNOW? Southwest began serving San Diego on Jan. 31, 1982. IN THIS ISSUE / 116 Travel Tips / 118 Inflight Entertainment / 119 Bevera-

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARLO ACENAS/TANDEMSTOCK.COM

ges / 120 Products and Services / 122 Rapid Rewards® / 124 Go International / 126 Route Map

NOVEMBER 2017 SOUTHWEST

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Travel Tips

Fly Like a Pro

Check out these reminders to enjoy a stress-free travel experience. FURRY FRIENDS

If you’re traveling with a pet, you can’t sit in the bulkhead or exit row seat.

SAY, “CHEESE!”

Please be respectful of Employees and Customers when capturing photos or videos onboard.

We’re continuing to add new, spacious seats across our fleet of 737s. Getting there just got more comfortable.

On a Business Trip? TAKE YOUR PICK With Business Select®, you can be one of the first to board with priority boarding. Pick the seat you want and have room for your carryon bags. Visit Southwest. com/businessselect. CHEERS! If you’re a Business Select Customer, your first drink is on us.* WORK PERKS Business Select Passengers can bypass long lines by taking advantage of our Fly By® priority check-in and security lane access (where available). For a complete list of available Fly By® locations, visit Southwest.com/flyby.

Permitted Pueden usarse dentro del avión Small portable electronic devices (PEDs) such as tablets, e-readers, and smartphones weighing less than 2 pounds may be used in AIRPLANE mode at all times on domestic flights, unless a Crew Member indicates otherwise. A small PED may be held in hand, attached to a person, or placed in clothing or a seatback pocket. Devices and accessories may not block access to the aisle. Large PEDs such as laptops weighing 2 pounds or more must be stowed under the seat or in an overhead bin for taxi, takeoff, and landing. It is recommended that laptops be placed in a case when stowed under the seat. On international flights, all PEDs must be turned off during taxi, takeoff, and landing at airports outside the U.S. and its territories. Please use headphones for all audio and video. Siempre puedes usar dispositivos electrónicos portátiles y pequeños (PEDs) tales como tabletas, lectores electrónicos y teléfonos inteligentes que pesen menos de 2 libras en modo AVIÓN en

los vuelos domésticos, excepto si un Miembro de la Tripulación indica lo contrario. Puedes tener un PED pequeño en la mano, llevarlo encima, en la ropa o en un bolsillo en el respaldo del asiento. Los dispositivos y accesorios no pueden bloquear el acceso al pasillo. Los PEDs grandes como computadoras portátiles que pesen 2 libras o más deben de ser guardados debajo del asiento o en los compartimentos superiores mientras el avión avanza por la pista, durante el despegue y el aterrizaje. Se recomienda que las computadoras portátiles se guarden en un estuche debajo del asiento. En los vuelos internacionales, todos los PEDs deben permanecer apagados mientras el avión avanza por la pista, durante el despegue y el aterrizaje en aeropuertos fuera de los EE. UU. y sus territorios. Por favor usa auriculares para cualquier sonido o video.

Smartphones (in AIRPLANE mode) Teléfonos inteligentes (en modo AVIÓN) Tablets or E-readers (in AIRPLANE mode) Tabletas o lectores electrónicos (en modo AVIÓN) Laptop Computers Computadoras portátiles Audio Players Aparatos de audio DVD/CD Players Reproductores de DVD/CD

Digital Cameras Cámaras digitales GPS Receivers GPS Hand-Held Electronic Games Juegos electrónicos portátiles Satellite Radio Radio por satélite Video Camcorders Videocámaras Bluetooth Devices Dispositivos Bluetooth

Sometimes Permitted

Pueden usarse en ocasiones dentro del avión We understand you may want to document your travel on Southwest Airlines. Want to photograph and/or record Southwest Airlines Customers or Employees? Let them know first! The use of cameras and mobile devices is permitted onboard to capture personal events but can never interfere with the safety of a flight and should always respect others’ privacy. Entendemos que es posible que desees documentar tu viaje en Southwest Airlines. ¿Quieres fotografiar y / o grabar Clientes o Empleados de Southwest Airlines? ¡Hazles saber primero! El uso de cámaras y dispositivos móviles se permite a bordo para capturar eventos personales, pero nunca debe interferir con la seguridad de un vuelo y siempre debe respetar la privacidad de los demás.

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SNACK PACK

For your next trip, try EarlyBird Check-In® ($15 one way**). We’ll automatically check you in and reserve your boarding position 36 hours before your flight. That’s a full 12 hours earlier than our traditional 24-hour check-in.

BEFORE YOU GET UP, REMEMBER ...

Although you can form lines at the back lavatory, you cannot form lines at the front lavatory or gather in the front galley.

We serve complimentary snacks,† but feel free to bring your own food onboard— you just can’t bring your own alcohol to consume onboard.

SMOKE-FREE E-cigarettes are not allowed to be used in the cabin.

* Business Select Customers receive a free premium drink on the day of travel. ** Price is subject to change. † We serve peanuts. Visit Southwest.com® and click on “Special Assistance” at the bottom of the page for more information.

Always Permitted Pueden usarse en todo momento dentro del avión

Never Permitted Nunca pueden

Electronic nerve stimulators and other implanted medical devices are also permitted. Dispositivos de estimulación electrónica de los nervios y otros aparatos médicos

Devices capable of transmitting data, unless otherwise noted, are never permitted. Nunca son permitidos los dispositivos con capacidad para transmitir datos, excepto que se especifique lo contrario.

Two-Way Radios (WalkieTalkies) or Scanners Radios emisores/receptores (walkie-talkies)

PETS

anyone under the age of 21. We reserve the right to refuse the sale of alcoholic beverages to anyone. Se prohíbe que los Clientes consuman bebidas alcohólicas si no fueron compradas a bordo. No serviremos bebidas alcohólicas a las personas menores de 21 años de edad. Nos reservamos el derecho de negar la venta de bebidas alcohólicas a cualquier persona.

CREW INTERFERENCE

Federal law prohibits any Passenger from assaulting, threatening, or intimidating a Crew Member or interfering with a Crew Member’s duties. La ley federal prohíbe que los pasajeros ataquen, amenacen o intimiden a los Miembros de la Tripulación o que interfieran con los deberes de un Miembro de la Tripulación.

implantados también son permitidos.

Electronic Watches Relojes electrónicos

Pacemakers Marcapasos

Noise-Canceling Headphones Auriculares que aislan el ruido

Hearing Aids Aparatos para sordos Electric Shavers Rastrillo eléctrico

DISABILITY ASSISTANCE

Southwest Airlines offers assistance to Customers with disabilities upon request. Southwest Airlines siempre ofrece asistencia para sus Clientes con discapacidades que así lo soliciten. ELECTRONIC DEVICES

Cellphones and pagers may be used at the gate and after landing. Los teléfonos y localizadores pueden ser usados en la puerta y después de aterrizar.

CARRYON BAGGAGE

Customers are limited to one (1) bag per person, plus one (1) additional personal item. El límite es de una (1) maleta por persona y un (1) artículo personal. LOST AN ITEM ONBOARD A FLIGHT?

Visit the Customer Service page on Southwest. com to report a lost item. Visita la página de Servicio al Cliente en Southwest.com para reportar un objeto perdido.

usarse dentro del avión

All pets must stay inside their carriers and under the seat for the duration of the flight. Todas las mascotas deben permanecer dentro de sus jaulas y debajo del asiento durante todo el vuelo. ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

Customers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages not purchased onboard. Alcoholic beverages will not be served to

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers Televisión o radios de AM/FM Remote-Controlled Toys Juguetes de control remoto

Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices not allowed for use in the cabin. No se permite el uso de Cigarrillos Electrónicos y Dispositivos para fumar adentro de la cabina. Samsung Galaxy Note 7 Smartphone PERSONAL DEVICES

Unapproved personal devices (e.g., Knee Defender, infant slings) may not be attached to any part of the aircraft. Dispositivos personales no aprobados (coo por ejemplo “defensores de rodillas” o mantas portabebés) no pueden sujetarse a ninguna parte de la aeronave.

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Inflight Entertainment

Getting Connected

Our entertainment portal is filled with exciting inflight options— from free live TV to exclusive content—for you to enjoy.

Our portal has a new look. Whether you want to catch your favorite TV show or need a restaurant recommendation, we’ve got you covered.

®

HOW TO CONNECT: SOUTHWESTWIFI.COM*

Handheld Devices

Tap the Settings icon, and then choose the WiFi icon. Turn WiFi On with On/Off button.

Tap SouthwestWiFi in the list of WiFi networks and confirm connection. Open your internet browser.

Our entertainment portal should load automatically. If not, click the address bar and type in Southwestwifi.com.

Select your entertainment option and enjoy.

Laptops

Click the WiFi icon.

Select SouthwestWiFi from the list of WiFi networks by clicking on it and confirm connection. Open your internet browser.

Our entertainment portal should load automatically. If not, click the address bar and type in Southwestwifi.com.

Select your entertainment option and enjoy.

* WiFi available only on WiFi-equipped aircraft.

MORE INFORMATION:

• Content and services are offered on WiFi-enabled aircraft only. We cannot guarantee that connecting flights will be WiFi-enabled. • Service on flights to/from destinations outside the contiguous

U.S. may not currently be available for the entire flight. • Movies and select TV content require download of the free AirTime Player app. • Pricing information can be found on the Inflight

Entertainment Portal. • In order to provide top-notch web browsing capabilities to all Customers using WiFi, we limit access to the following online activities due to high bandwidth consumption: telephony

applications (VoIP), device/ system/software updates, and certain video/audio streaming subscription services, applications, and websites.

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Beverages

THIS ONE’S ON US Business Select® Customers receive a free premium drink† on the day of travel.

Dr Pepper THIS BELOVED BEVERAGE dates

back to 1885, when the drink was first served at Morrison’s Old Corner Drugstore in Waco, Texas. The man behind the fizzy sensation? Pharmacist Charles Alderton. And while the origins of Dr Pepper’s name remain a mystery, it’s no secret that the soda’s blend of 23 flavors has been delighting palates ever since.

COMPLIMENTARY BEVERAGES

• Coca-Cola® • Coca-Cola® Zero Sugar • Diet Coke® • Sprite® • Sprite Zero™ • Dr Pepper® • Diet Dr Pepper® • Seagram’s® Ginger Ale • Seagram’s® Tonic Water • Seagram’s® Seltzer Water • Mr & Mrs T® Bloody Mary Mix • Mr & Mrs T® Margarita Mix • Mott’s® Tomato Juice

• Minute Maid® Cranberry Apple Cocktail • Minute Maid® Orange Juice • Minute Maid® Apple Juice • Community® coffee* • Community® decaf instant coffee* • Community® tea • Hot Chocolate • Noncarbonated Purified Drinking Water

* Regular and hazelnut creamer available

LIQUOR $5

• • • • •

Dewar’s® Scotch Jack Daniel’s® Wild Turkey® Tanqueray® Gin Bacardi® Rum

BEER $5

• Bud Light® • Miller Lite® • Dos Equis® Special Lager • Leinenkugel’s® Oktoberfest • Fat Tire®

• Baileys® Irish Cream • Deep Eddy® Vodka • Sauza® Gold Tequila WINE $5

• Carmenet Cabernet Sauvignon • St Roc Sparkling Wine • Whistling Thorn Chenin BlancChardonnay

† You must be 21 years or older to drink alcoholic beverages. According to the U.S. Surgeon General, women who are pregnant or who may become pregnant should not drink alcoholic beverages because of the risk of birth defects. Images of the alcoholic beverage product do not reflect how it is actually served. Customer will not receive a beverage with a cap. In accordance with FAA regulations, Customers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages onboard that are not served by Southwest Airlines.

Valid Southwest Airlines Rapid Rewards® drink coupons, as shown here, are printed with expiration dates and the Member’s (or issuing group’s) name. Business Select® drink coupons are valid for same-day use only. Valid Rapid Rewards and Business Select drink coupons will be accepted onboard for beer, wine, and liquor. Expires Dec 31, 2017

RECYCLING

We’re happy to take care of any recyclable items, including plastic bottles, coffee cups, newspapers, and food containers.

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Products and Services

Need a hand? Southwest can help you when ...

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF WINTERFEST

… you’re ready to set sail. We’re proud to be the official airline partner of the Winterfest Boat Parade, held in Ft. Lauderdale on Dec. 9. During the parade, look out for Southwest’s decorated yacht.

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FOLLOW YOUR DREAMS!

PHOTOGRAPHY © 2017 DISNEY/PIXAR (COCO), BY LUSO/ISTOCK (WINE CORKS)

In Disney/Pixar’s Coco, aspiring musician Miguel dreams of following in his idol’s famous footsteps, but struggles with his family’s inexplicable ban on music. Tune in to Disney/Pixar’s Coco on-demand channel on the entertainment portal for a special sneak peek of the film, which hits U.S. theaters in 3D on Nov. 22.

LOOKING FOR THE PERFECT PINOT?

With Laithwaite’s 4 Seasons wine club, earn 2,000 Rapid Rewards points* and save on 12 bottles of vino. laithwaiteswine. com/southwest

... you’re ready for a new wardrobe. Earn Rapid Rewards® points when you make purchases online from your favorite stores. rapidrewardsshopping.southwest.com

* Earn 2,000 Rapid Rewards bonus points with your purchase of an introductory 4 Seasons wine club case.

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Rapid Rewards

Winter Wanderland We think Rapid Rewards® is the best loyalty program around. Redeem your points for any seat on any day, any time, and get to your next vacation faster.

Earn Points Fast with These Exclusive Credit Card Benefits:

Hotels

Paint the town red, then turn in at your favorite hotel and earn up to 10,000 Rapid Rewards points per night.† Book now at Southwesthotels.com in partnership with Booking.com.

• 2X points on Southwest purchases • 2X points on Rapid Rewards hotel and car rental purchases • 1X point on all other purchases • Bonus points on your Cardmember anniversary • Redeem your points for flights, hotel stays, rental cars, access to exclusive events, and more Visit Southwest.com/inflight to learn more. Southwest Rapid Rewards Visa Credit Cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Offer subject to change. See Southwest.com/applytoday for pricing and rewards details. All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms. Earn from 1,000 to 10,000 points per night for every hotel stay booked through Rocketmiles. Visit rocketmiles.com/southwest to book now.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEKSANDARNAKIC/ISTOCK

The Rapid Rewards® Credit Card

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ENROLL NOW! Not a Rapid Rewards Member? Sign up at Southwest.com/enroll.

A-List Along with priority boarding, A-List Members receive a 25 percent point-earning bonus, Fly By® priority check-in and security lane access (where available)†, a dedicated phone line to answer any questions, and more. Southwest. com/ALstatus

A-List Preferred Want even more perks? As an A-List Preferred Member, you not only get all the perks of being an A-Lister, you also get free inflight WiFi (where available) and a 100 percent point-earning bonus. Southwest.com/ALPstatus

Companion Every time you Pass purchase a flight or redeem points for a flight, Companion Pass lets you choose one person to fly free†† with you for an entire calendar year. Southwest. com/CPstatus

All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms. † For a complete list of available Fly By® locations, visit Southwest. com/flyby. †† Does not include taxes and fees from $5.60 one-way. Visit Southwest.com/rrterms for a complete list of Companion Pass rules.

Rental Cars

Speed up the earning with your next car rental. Earn 600 points per qualifying rental.† Visit Southwest.com/car-rentals to book now.

† Hotels and Rental Cars: Potential to earn additional

Shop, Dine, and More

From haute couture to haute cuisine, you can earn hundreds of Rapid Rewards points with every dollar you spend.

Earn 3 points per $1 spent. Join Rapid Rewards Dining® for free today at rapidrewardsdining.com.

Rapid Rewards Members can earn 1,000 points on an order of $29.99 or more. Visit 1800flowers.com/rapidrewards.

Earn Rapid Rewards points for shopping at hundreds of your favorite online retailers. Visit rrshopping.southwest. com to learn more.

Earn 2,000 Rapid Rewards bonus points when you join the 4 Seasons wine club—plus 3 complimentary bottles. Learn more at laithwaiteswine.com/ southwest.

Make your points go further. Close to a reward flight but need a few more points? You can buy points for yourself, give them as a gift, or transfer points from your Rapid Rewards account to another Member—all from one location. Visit Southwest. com/pointscenter to get started.

points depending on applicable promotion. All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms. ©2017 Southwest Airlines Co.

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Go International

JUST IN TIME El Mangroove is 20 minutes from both Liberia’s airport and the beach town of Playas del Coco.

including Liberia, Costa Rica. Explore the natural beauty, relax oceanside, and soak up la pura vida.

1

RIO CELESTE This striking river snakes through Tenorio Volcano National Park, and following its path makes for a picturesque hike. Rio Celeste’s waterfall might be the main draw, but the wildlife, hanging bridges, and thermal pools will keep you enchanted along the way.

Boarding, Customs, and Immigration 1

This Space For Offical Use Only

2. Free of duty imports: passengers entering the country by sea or by air may import goods of duty, additional to their personal baggage, as long as they prove their value with an invoice or receipt and such amount does not exceed 300 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency or 75 US dollars when the entry is by land. Alcoholic beverages, shredded tobacco or automobile fuel cannot be imported as part of the duty free exemption.

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO. 1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110,148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

During the vacation periods of Holy week, summer and winter, Mexican Nationals entering the country by land may import, under duty exemption, items of up to 300 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency provided that such people do not live along the border strip or border region. The starting and ending dates of such periods can be consulted directly with customs personnel or at www. aduanas.gob.mx.

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term “family” is defined as “members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption.” 1 Family Name

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Middle Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination

(b) City

6 Passport number 7 Country of Residence

trip prior to U.S. arrival

11 I am (We are) bringing

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects: (b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products: (c) disease agents, cell cultures, snails: (d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture: 12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock:

Yes

No

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

No No No No No

Yes

No

(such as touching or handling)

13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments

over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse)

14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

Yes

No

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise

I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else, but not items mailed to the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: $ VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is: $

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

Signature

1 Last name(s) Nationality

Mexican laws establish among others the following penalties and sanctions related to the importation of goods into the country: • Omission to declare whether coming in or out of the Mexico´s customs amounts of cash, in domestic or foreign checks, payment orders or any other documents receivable in an aggregate amount exceeding the equivalent of 10,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency, which action will be punishable with a fine of 20 to 40% of the exceeding amount and the corresponding criminal penalties will be applied. • Introduction into or extraction of goods from Mexico, using deceitful methods to hide items, when their imports or exports is prohibited, restricted or because foreign trade duties must be paid, will be punishable with fines ranging, to 70 or 100%, of the commercial value of merchandise. • Omission of the total or partial payment of foreign trade duties. When failure consist of only a duty omission and the goods do not exceed 3,000 US dollars or its equivalent In domestic or foreign currency, the penalty will consist of up to 116% of the commercial value of the items. Once the duties have been paid, the Customs Authority will make the items available to the passenger. • If the corresponding documentation required by the Customs Law prove that the merchandise was properly submitted for proper customs procedures in order to enter the country, is not exhibited, a precautionary seizure of the non declared goods as well as the corresponding vehicle, in case the passengers entered the country by land, will proceed. • For non declared items which do not comply with regulations and restrictions other than duties, abandonment can be declared once the corresponding fine is paid.

Issue on 2013. Please look up for changes in this information when you are visiting us again at customs desk or at www.aduanas.gob.mx Date (month/day/year)

Welcome to Mexico

Name(s)

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

for passengers coming from abroad

Passengers may import items to their personal baggage without requiring the services of a customs agent by paying a global rate of 16%, provided that the total amount, excluding the duty free exemption, does not exceed 3,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency as long as an invoice, proof of payment or any other document that proves the commercial value of the items is provided.

INFRACTIONS AND SANCTIONS

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name 10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

sat.gob.mx

aduanas.gob.mx

3

Customs Declaration

Please read the instructions prior to filling this form: Every passenger or head of household must provide the following information.

PAYMENT OF DUTIES

• Duties can be paid using the form “Pago de contribuciones al comercio exterior” (Foreign trade tax payment). • The total value of computer equipment, added to the rest of the items above cannot exceed 4,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency. • Items subject to compliance, regulations other than payment of duties (permits, certificates, and notifications) cannot be imported. • In order to determine the tax basis, the duty free exemptions mentioned in number 2 could be deducted from the value of the items.

(c) State

5 Passport issued by (country)

8 Countries visited on this

2

Date of birth

Day

Month

Year

Passport number

2

VISITORS T Number of days you will stay in Mexico RESIDENTS OF MEXICO Number of days you stayed abroad

3

Number of family members traveling with you Number of luggage pieces (bags and packages) you bring with you Missing luggage or luggage to be imported by cargo (pieces) (See Notification 1 of this form)

4 MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION Mark with an X the means of transportation Maritime Vessel No.

Ground Transport No.

Air Flight No.

5 Carrying money in cash, receivables or a combination of both is legal; however, not declaring the total amount when more than the equivalent of 10,000 US dollars is carried may be subject to administrative or criminal penalties. Are you carrying amounts in cash, documents receivable (checks, promissory notes, payment orders, etc.) or a combination of them, the combined total of which exceeds 10,000 US dollars or their equivalent in national or foreign currency?

No If you have answered Yes, please declare the total amount in US dollars

Yes

$

If you answer Yes, you must also fill out the “Declaración de internación o extracción de cantidades en efectivo y/o documento por cobrar” (Customs Declaration for the import/export of cash, receivables or equivalent documents), which you can request from the customs personnel in charge at the entry ports to Mexico or download it from the Customs Internet Site: www.aduanas.gob.mx

U.S. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM*

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (or one Passenger per family with the same address) bound for the U.S. How to complete this form: • Complete before arrival in the U.S. • Write in English, in capital letters. • Be sure to include the street name and number, city, and

state of your address in the U.S. • If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. • Lines 5 and 6 may be left blank if not using a passport. • On Line 9, enter WN for Southwest, followed by your specific flight number. • Please read both sides of the declaration. • Sign at the “X.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY AURORA PHOTOS/OFFSET (RIO CELESTE), CAGAN H. SEKERCIOGLU/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (TOUCAN)

Insider’s Liberia Southwest serves 14 international destinations,

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3

RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA NATIONAL PARK Hot springs,

diverse flora and fauna, hiking trails, waterfalls, and a volcano—there’s no end to what you can explore at this national park northeast of Liberia.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NORBERT ACHTELIK/MITO IMAGES/OFFSET (TAMARINDO), COURTESY OF EL MANGROOVE

2

EL MANGROOVE From whale watching and fishing to river rafting and hiking, opportunities for adventure abound at this swanky beachfront hotel. For added luxury, book El Mangle Suite, which features its own private pool and sun deck.

4 MEXICAN CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (or one Passenger per family with the same address) on flights bound for Mexico. How to complete this form: • Complete sections 1–6. • Once completed, sign and date the form.

MEXICAN IMMIGRATION FORM

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (including children) who are not citizens of Mexico, on flights bound for Mexico. How to complete this form: • Complete sections 1–14 on the top portion of the form and sections 1–10 on the bottom portion of the form. • Once completed, sign and date the top portion of the form.

TAMARINDO About an hour’s drive from the airport, this beach town is known for its surfing. There’s also snorkeling and kayaking, and Las Baulas National Marine Park is a short drive away.

• Sections on the form titled “USO OFICIAL” are for use by Mexican Immigration officials and should not be filled out by Passengers. What to do with this form: • The form will be separated as Passengers proceed through Mexican Customs. • Make sure to retain the bottom portion of the form, which serves as your visa while in Mexico. It must be surrendered

at time of check-in for your return flight. Passengers unable to present this form at time of departure will be fined by Mexican Immigration. * Go to cbp.gov to download, fill out, and print this form before your next international flight.

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Route Map

Your Destination Awaits

Planning your next getaway? It’s a snap at Southwest.com. PACIFIC TIME MOUNTAIN TIME

SEATTLE/TACOMA

CENTRAL TIME

SPOKANE

PORTLAND

BOISE

MINNEAPOLIS/ ST. PAUL

GRAND RAPIDS MILWAUKEE

RENO/TAHOE

DES MOINES

SALT LAKE CITY

SACRAMENTO OAKLAND SAN FRANCISCO (SFO) SAN JOSE

CHICAGO (MIDWAY)

OMAHA INDIANAPOLIS DENVER

KANSAS CITY

ST. LOUIS

LOUISVILLE

LAS VEGAS WICHITA BURBANK LOS ANGELES (LAX) LONG BEACH

YOU’RE ON YOUR WAY You can get to a number of other cities via Southwest destinations. Travel to Santa Fe via Albuquerque, Palm Springs via Ontario/ LA, Galveston via Houston (Hobby), and more. Service between some cities/airports is not offered. * Service to Turks and Caicos begins Nov. 5, pending government approvals.

ONTARIO/LA

ALBUQUERQUE

ORANGE COUNTY

NASHVILLE TULSA

AMARILLO

SAN DIEGO

OKLAHOMA CITY PHOENIX

LITTLE ROCK

LUBBOCK

TUCSON

DALLAS (LOVE FIELD) EL PASO

MEMPHIS

BIRMINGHAM

MIDLAND/ODESSA PENSACOLA AUSTIN HOUSTON (HOBBY)

PANAMA CIT

NEW ORLEANS

SAN ANTONIO CORPUS CHRISTI

FT. MYERS/N

HARLINGEN/SOUTH PADRE ISLAND

CABO SAN LUCAS/LOS CABOS

CANCU CANC UN PUERTO VALLARTA

DALLAS

Kick back and enjoy the fresh air on the Southwest Porch at Klyde Warren Park. Listen up for live music, and dig into a burger from Relish.

MEXICO CITY BELIZE CITY

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Paul Fredrick Kory Ellefsen at Paradysz-Matera 763.647.5131 kellefsen@pmxagency.com 2/20/17

THE BEST PURE COTTON NON-IRON DRESS SHIRT BAR NONE

KANSAS CITY

Advertiser: Contact: Phone: Email: On Sale:

Get creative at Kaleidoscope, a Hallmark Cards space where all materials come from the company’s manufacturing processes. EASTERN TIME ATLANTIC TIME PORTLAND MANCHESTER ROCHESTER FLINT DETROIT

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One Question

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what’s your favorite instrument?

Lee’s selftitled album drops this month.

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I’m a guitar player. My band is on a whole different level, but I hear melodies and nuances and I love to play. Every chance I could, I played on this record—the electric guitar and banjo, as well as some piano, bass, drums, and even a little harmonica. For a long time, all the “A” players in Nashville played on all the records, and it’s still that way 95 percent of the time. Even though they’re the best in the world, it can all start to kind of sound the same. That’s why I’m proud of my guitar playing on this one. Maybe it’s a little less fancy, but it’s identifiable and it sounds like me.

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SAN DIEGO Steven R. Cohen, MD 4510 Executive Drive San Diego, CA 858-453-7224 FacesPlus.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

AUSTIN Jennifer L. Walden, MD 5656 Bee Cave Road Austin, TX 512-328-4100 DrJenniferWalden.com Super Doctors – Texas

BIRMINGHAM, AL James C. Grotting, MD 1 Inverness Center Parkway Birmingham, AL 205-930-1600 GrottingPlasticSurgery.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

SAN FRANCISCO Stephen J. Ronan, MD 3600 Blackhawk Plaza Circle Blackhawk, CA 925-736-5757 BlackhawkPlasticSurgery.com Super Doctors – San Francisco

LOS ANGELES Grant Stevens, MD 4644 Lincoln Boulevard Marina del Rey, CA 877-438-2049 DrGrantStevens.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

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SALT LAKE CITY Brian K. Brzowski, MD Offices locations in: Salt Lake & Ogden, UT 801-997-6080 Brzowski.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

HOUSTON Paul Vitenas, Jr., MD 4208 Richmond Avenue Houston, TX 281-484-0088 DrVitenas.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

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Dr. Brian K. Brzowski Salt Lake City, UT

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RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH

Los Angeles / Santa Monica, CA LOCANDA DEL LAGO 231 Arizona Avenue - 310.451.3525 "Don't miss the Ossobuco alla Milanese"–Gourmet, "There's no better place to peoplewatch than at the outdoor patio"–Frommers. Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, 2015. www.lagosantamonica.com When Lago opened in April 1991, the upscale Italian restaurant quickly established a reputation as having perhaps the only menu in Los Angeles to focus on the cuisine of Bellagio on Lake Como in Northern Italy. Today, celebrating its 24th anniversary, Lago maintains that unique identity and attracts an eclectic crowd of foodies, celebrities, locals and travelers. With its warm, inviting interior, expansive windows and a sidewalk patio overlooking Santa Monica's colorful Third Street Promenade, the restaurant is consistently lauded for imaginative Italian cuisine spotlighting seasonal flavors and the freshest local ingredients. Co-owner West Hooker, who was born in Milan and has lived and worked in Bellagio, presides over the popular restaurant with General Manager Megan Heritage, who has been with Lago since 1996.

Chicago / Downtown Italian Village Restaurants-Visit Italy right in Chicago THE VILLAGE - 312.332.7005 71 W. Monroe Street Chicago's Oldest Family Italian Restaurant–Al Capone was a regular. Guests dine in cozy nooks designed like a small Italian town. Celebrating our 88th anniversary this year. www.italianvillage-chicago.com LA CANTINA - 312.332.7005 A premier Italian Steak and Chop House VIVERE - 312.332.4040 A contemporary restaurant featuring "new" Italian cuisine from all regions of Italy. 2015 Wine Spectator Top Ten Italian Restaurants, 2015 DiRona Award, 2015 Wine Enthusiasts Ultimate Distinction Award.

Disneyworld/Universal/Orlando, FL CHRISTINI'S 7600 Dr. Phillips Boulevard - 407.345.8770 CHRISTINI’S IS ONE OF THE MOST AWARDED ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN THE UNITED STATES. www.christinis.com

Ft. Lauderdale / Boca Raton, FL CASA D’ANGELO Boca Raton: 171 East Palmetto Park Rd. 561.338.1703 Ft. Lauderdale: Sunrise Square Plaza,1201 N. FederalHwy. 954.564.1234 Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence, 2015. Zagat America's Top Restaurants, 2015. Rated as not only one of the best Italian restaurants in Florida, Casa D'Angelo has also been recognized in the industry as one of America's finest Italian restaurants. www.casa-d-angelo.com

232 North Dale Mabry - 813.875.6660 An Old World bliss in the heart of Tampa serving authentic Italian Cuisine since 1984. Every night Guido and Gino Tiozzo welcome you at the door and every lady will leave Donatello with a rose on her hand as a thanks for being there. You’ll see for yourself that hospitality has ancient roots at Donatello. Full Bar, Piano Lounge, Private Rooms. Wine Spectator Award 15 consecutive years, 2000-2015. Editor’s Note: The Finest in Tampa Bay. Try the Filet Mignon, it’s over the top! www.donatellotampa.com

Info 1-800-448-7544

Tampa, FL DONATELLO

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