September 2016

SOUTHWEST THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2016

SEPTEMBER 2016

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Digital Extras

WATCH: San Antonio: The Saga The façade of the San Fernando Cathedral comes alive when artist Xavier De Richemont presents this colorful 24-minute light show. [“Adventure In,” page 73].

WATCH: Global Research Dr. Paul Alan Cox [“The Storied Man,” page 54] details his work around the world with Alzheimer’s, ALS and Parkinson’s disease at TEDxJacksonHole.

This digital edition of Southwest: The Magazine is sponsored by

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF MAIN PLAZA CONSERVANCY (SAN FERNANDO CATHEDRAL)

WATCH: High Note Carrie Underwood [“Star Turn,” page 48] performs her hit single, “Church Bells,” at Ryman Auditorium [“The 10 Best Places to See Live Music,” page 51] for the Grand Ole Opry.

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OF DATING

THE POLITICS 64% OF DATING

% of singles who64% want to date others with similar political opinions and beliefs

64% 64%

16%

17%

67%

Yes, but I gave it another chance

Yes, and I have no desire to go on another date with them

No, everyone is entitled to their opinion

M: I’m good at having a conversa-

tion if I’m interested in somebody, and I was interested in her. We had a great conversation. I don’t think either of us wanted to leave.

Strong political opinions are usually:

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16%

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A big turn-on! Who cares? I’m dating Talking politics is this person, not sexy. running against them for office.

17%

Yes, but I gave it another chance

16%

Yes, but I gave it another 16% chance Yes, but I gave it another chance

67%

Yes, and I have no No, everyone is desire to go on entitled to their another date with opinion Yes, andthem I have no No, everyone is 17% 67% desire to go on entitled to their another date with opinion Yes, and I have no No, everyone is them desire to go on entitled to their

17%

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THE POLITICS

67%

opinion

Strong political opinions are usually: Strong political Strong political opinions are are opinions usually: usually:

24%

20%

55%

24% 20% 55% A big-turn off. Strong A big turn-on! Who cares? I’m dating opinions, especially politics is this person, not A big-turn off. Strong Talking A big turn-on!

Who cares?

I’m dating political ones, are running against opinions, especially Talkingsexy. politics is this person, not them political are against them A big-turn off.ones, Strong A big sexy. turn-on! running Who cares?

I’m dating obnoxious. for office. for person, office. not opinions,obnoxious. especially Talking politics is this political ones, are sexy. running against them obnoxious. for office.

24%

20%

55%

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September 2016

73

Your Adventure In San Antonio

48 Star Turn

The bright lights and adoring fans are still exhilarating, but for country megastar Carrie Underwood, there are now a few more things to focus on.

54 The Storied Man

From the rain forests of the South Pacific to the buttes of Wyoming, ethnobotanist Paul Cox probes the planet to decipher some of humanity’s worst diseases.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID SUCSY/ISTOCK

Explore the burgeoning South Texas city’s funkier side, with world-class cuisine and kaleidoscopic works of art.

Grab a seat at Casa Rio and sip a margarita along the famed River Walk.

6 southwest september 2016

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CONTENTS September 2016

37 48

54 In Every Issue 14 16 18 20 22 26 28

Gary’s Greeting Saludos de Gary Our Star The A-List You Made Our Day From the Editor Feedback

Play 90 96 100 102 103 104 105 105 106 110 112 114 116

Fun! Advertiser Directory Products and Services Spotlight Flight Service Heart of the Community International Travel Beverages Inflight Entertainment Rapid Rewards Terminal Maps Route Map One Question

31 Number 32 Eat 34 Drink

Work 37 Solution 38 Startup

Features 41 My Mom, the Sports Fanatic 48 Star Turn 51 The 10 Best Places to See Live Music 54 The Storied Man 73 Your Adventure In San Antonio 83 Promotional Series: Focus on Men’s Health

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDEE ST. NICHOLAS (COVER), AYA BRACKETT (OCTOPUS), STEVE JENNINGS (CARRIE UNDERWOOD), LINDSAY LINTON (PAUL COX), ILLUSTRATION BY BENEDETTO CRISTOFANI

32

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September 2016 EDITORIAL editorial director Jay Heinrichs creative director Kevin de Miranda senior editor JK Nickell senior art director David W. Radabaugh editors Ben Marshall Bradford Pearson associate editors Melissa Flandreau Austin W. G. Morton junior designers Desiree Espada Alina Keohavong Kim Thwaits editorial interns Samantha Stutsman contributors Jonathan Bartlett, Alison Bonaguro, Aya Brackett, Nick Cabrera, Benedetto Cristofani, Daniel Fishel, Jenny Hart, Lindsay Linton, Michael J. Mooney web development, pace interactive Jason Dalton, Carolyn Eckstein, Chad Hayton EDITORIAL INQUIRIES Write to Southwest: The Magazine 2811 McKinney Ave., Suite 360, Dallas, TX 75204, or email letters@southwestmag.com.

SOUTHWEST INQUIRIES For comments or questions directed at Southwest Airlines that don’t pertain to the magazine, write to Southwest Airlines Customer Relations P.O. Box 36647, Dallas, TX 75235-1647, or visit the “Contact Us” page at Southwest.com.

ceo & owner Bonnie McElveen-Hunter chairman emeritus Eugene Johnston secretary-treasurer Patricia M. McConnell president Craig Waller chief operating officer & chief financial officer Leigh Ann Klee

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Gary’s Greeting

Connecting People and Communities All told, our 2015 corporate monetary, in-kind, and ticket donations totaled more than $19 million. And while we’re proud to provide monetary resources and tickets to deserving organizations, we also seek out ways to personally engage in the causes that matter most to the communities we serve.

In 2014, we launched the Heart of the Community program to promote social, economic, and wellness initiatives throughout our communities. This first-of-its-kind program focuses on revitalizing public spaces through the community-based approach of “placemaking,” which is made possible by our partnership with the pioneering nonprofit Project for Public Spaces. Last year,

we supported workshops where residents contributed to transforming underutilized spaces into dynamic gathering spots in Albuquerque, New Mexico; Jacksonville, Florida; Milwaukee; Ft. Myers, Florida; St. Louis; and Portland, Maine. In Portland, residents fought to save a historic town square, now a place filled with music and dancing where the community comes together. (You can read about our St. Louis project on page 104.)

Heart of the Community is a signature part of our broader efforts to connect People and strengthen local communities through our charitable giving, core business, and environmental initiatives.

We extend our Hearts into these communities in a number of ways, including our primary areas of focus: Volunteerism (more than 145,000 hours in 2015!), Families Facing Serious Illness, Disaster Preparedness and Response, Military and Family Members, Placemaking, and the Environment.

We’re also spending a lot of time on the concept of resiliency. Our outreach efforts focus on connecting People and bringing them back together, especially during tragedies or challenging events.

We believe the most resilient communities are the ones with the strongest connections.

Southwest was built on relationships, so it only makes sense that we would spread our wings as wide as they will go and share our Heart and our Purpose with everyone we meet—both in the air and on the ground.

Gary Kelly Chairman, President, and CEO Southwest Airlines

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

At Southwest, our Purpose is to connect People to the important moments in their lives through friendly, reliable, and low-cost air travel. As an airline, the concept of building connections is a passionate pursuit that doesn’t just apply to the places we fly. In fact, some of our best work is done on the ground in the communities where we work, live, and serve. We proudly display our Servant’s Hearts in a variety of ways across our route system. After all, we’re not just your favorite airline—our 50,000-plus Southwest Family Members are your neighbors and friends.

Last year alone, we gave 38,936 tickets and more than $3 million in monetary contributions to nonprofit organizations.

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Saludos de Gary

Conectando a las Personas y a las Comunidades En total, durante 2015, nuestras donaciones monetarias, en especie y en boletos sumaron más de $19 millones de dólares.

Y, si bien nos enorgullece aportar apoyo monetario y boletos para las organizaciones meritorias, también buscamos maneras de involucrarnos personalmente en las causas más importantes para las comunidades en las que servimos.

En 2014, lanzamos el programa Corazón de la Comunidad para promover iniciativas sociales, económicas y de bienestar en nuestras comunidades.

Este programa –el primero de su tipo– se enfoca en revitalizar espacios públicos a través de un enfoque de placemaking o “creación de lugares”, basado en la comunidad, el cual ha sido posible a través de nuestra asociación con la organización sin fines de lucro pionera en esta materia, Project for Public Spaces. El año pasado apoyamos talleres en los que los residentes contribuyeron a transformar espacios

desaprovechados en dinámicos puntos de encuentro en Albuquerque, Nuevo México; Jacksonville, Florida; Milwaukee; Ft. Myers, Florida; St. Louis; y Portland, Maine. En Portland, los residentes lucharon por salvar una histórica plaza de la ciudad, que ahora es un lugar lleno de música y baile, donde la comunidad se reúne. (Puede leer sobre nuestro proyecto de St. Louis en la página 104).

El programa Corazón de la Comunidad es una parte distintiva de nuestros esfuerzos más amplios para conectar a las Personas y fortalecer las comunidades locales a través de nuestras donaciones benéficas, nuestras actividades principales, y nuestras iniciativas medioambientales. Extendemos nuestros Corazones a estas comunidades en diferentes formas, incluyendo nuestras principales áreas de enfoque: Voluntariado (¡más de 145,000 horas en 2015!), Familias que Enfrentan una Enfermedad Grave, Preparación y Respuesta Ante Desastres, Militares y Familiares, Placemaking, y el Medio Ambiente.

Asimismo, estamos invirtiendo una gran cantidad de tiempo en el concepto de resiliencia. Nuestros esfuerzos de difusión se centran en conectar a las Personas y unirlas de nuevo, especialmente durante tragedias o acontecimientos desafiantes. Creemos que las comunidades más resilientes son las que tienen las conexiones más fuertes.

Southwest se basa en las relaciones, por lo que tiene sentido que extendamos nuestras alas tanto como sea posible y compartamos nuestro Corazón y nuestro Propósito con todos los que conocemos, tanto en el aire como en la tierra.

Gary Kelly Presidente de la Junta Directiva, Director Ejecutivo y Presidente Southwest Airlines

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

En Southwest, nuestro Propósito es conectar a las Personas con los momentos importantes en sus vidas a través de vuelos amigables, confiables y de bajo costo.

Como aerolínea, el concepto de crear conexiones se convierte en una búsqueda apasionada que no solamente se pone en práctica en los lugares a los que volamos.

De hecho, parte de nuestro trabajo más importante se realiza en tierra, en las comunidades en las que trabajamos, vivimos y servimos, donde mostramos con orgullo nuestros Corazones Serviciales en diferentes maneras, a lo largo y ancho de nuestro sistema de rutas. Después de todo, no somos solamente su aerolínea favorita: nuestros más de 50,000 Miembros de la Familia Southwest son sus vecinos y amigos.

Tan solo el año pasado, apoyamos a distintas organizaciones sin fines de lucro con 38,936 boletos y más de $3 millones de dólares en contribuciones monetarias.

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Our Star

“My grandfather taught me how to earn respect, establish goals, and build relationships.”

—DEANTE GREEN, RAMP AGENT SUPERVISOR When DeAnte Green joined Southwest from AirTran Airways four years ago, he fervently adopted the Company’s Culture. A beloved Leader, DeAnte says he learned how to treat people from his grandfather. Whether it’s bringing in doughnuts or ensuring his Employees have the resources they need, DeAnte lives the Southwest Way. In fact, his favorite part of being an Atlanta-based Ramp Agent Supervisor is when storms roll in and his Team comes together to solve problems. On and off the clock, DeAnte feels called to serve and recently donated to his hometown of Flint, Michigan, to support the city during its water crisis. DeAnte exemplifies Southwest’s rally cry: one Team, all Heart. —Jessie Wellman, Communication & Outreach THE REEL DEAL “I love fishing. My grandparents taught me when I was three, and it’s been passed on through the family for generations.”

FLORIDA FUN “Ft. Lauderdale is my favorite city to visit. It has a great vibe and a little bit of everything— beaches, dancing, casinos.”

To thank DeAnte for his work and dedication, Penn & Teller is proud to give him two tickets to see the show in Las Vegas. Congratulations, DeAnte!

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY HAROLD DANIELS

SL AM DUNK “Michael Jordan is the greatest basketball player of all time. There is no one like him and never will be.”

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The A-List

“Get outside of your comfort zone. It’s good to take chances and challenge yourself.”

—JAMES TAYLOR, ENGINEER, STAY-LITE LIGHTING Four years ago, James Taylor took a Southwest flight after his original travel plans fell through—and he hasn’t looked back.

An avid skydiver, James can handle high stakes and adrenaline rushes, but when it comes to business trips, he prefers to keep things stress-free. That’s where Rapid Rewards comes in. James loves bringing his wife and son on longer trips, which his Rapid Rewards points and Companion Pass status make possible.

Southwest’s no change fees also make maintaining a work-life balance easy. And if his last meeting of the day is canceled?

No problem. James can hop on an earlier flight and be home even sooner. We’re so glad you took the jump with Southwest, James! —Tess England, Customer Relations/Rapid Rewards PASS IT ON “A little understanding goes a long way. If you have the opportunity to help someone, it makes flying better for everyone.”

SAME DIFFERENCE

“Whether you’re a first-time flier or you fly every week, Southwest gives first-class service without the cost or stress.”

HIGH REGARD “If you’re ever in Milwaukee, visit Skydive Midwest for an experience—and views—that will blow your mind.”

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You Made Our Day WANT TO SHARE YOUR STORY? Have you witnessed an over-the-top act of Southwest Airlines Employee kindness?

Let us know at Southwest.com/ contact-us.

I recently flew Southwest—my first time—with family out to Santa Cruz, California. When we went to the San Jose airport for our return flight, I realized I had forgotten to give my son back his car keys, which he needed to get home to San Francisco. The other family members were returning a rental car and dropping someone else off for a later flight, so I knew they would be at the airport soon.

At our gate, I asked operations agent Gregg Lynn if Southwest could hold the keys for my

GET EXCITED!

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ILLUSTRATION BY LEVI HASTINGS

Dear Southwest,

son down at the entrance. Gregg asked when the other flight was, and then said he would be glad to give my son the keys since his break was at that time. Gregg then gave me his personal number and told me to have my son text him when he arrived. We also discovered we had another family member’s computer power cord, and Gregg was willing to deliver that, too. My son was reluctant to carry out this plan, but his aunt and I were insistent that, up to this point, we had been impressed with Southwest. We saw something unique about the atmosphere, and we trusted that Gregg, as a Southwest employee, would do as he said. Sure enough, my son texted and said he had the keys and the power cord.

Keep up the vision you have for your company and continue to encourage your employees who make flying with Southwest enjoyable. —Marie Medonis

22 SOUTHWEST SEPTEMBER 2016

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flight isn’t just transportation—it’s an amazing experience! Many thanks to you, Southwest, for employing one very helpful and kind employee!

—Jeffrey Grude FIRST-TIME FLIER

While traveling from Nashville to Amarillo, Texas, I lost my iPhone.

Despite searching the plane with help from the flight staff, the phone was nowhere to be found. I filed a lost item report online and activated the phone’s lost device features, hoping that if it was found and airplane mode was turned off, I would be contacted. Fortunately, I got a call from a wonderful flight attendant named Patricia Stanford. She had found my phone and figured out how to turn off airplane mode so she could notify me. She was nice enough to overnight the iPhone to me with her own money. To top it off, when I received the phone, I found a few bags of peanuts, pilot wings, a luggage tag, and a certificate for first-time fliers that congratulated my iPhone on its first Southwest flight (along with a note about the connections it had made). Patricia’s sense of humor, thoughtfulness, and willingness to go the extra mile are what make Southwest great. She is the reason I’ll be a Southwest customer for years to come. —Jared Brown HAT STOP

I was traveling to Boise, Idaho, with stops in Kansas City, Missouri, and Oakland, California. My son, Aidan, loves the Royals, especially since they won the World Series last year.

I asked if I could get off the plane in K.C. to buy a hat for Aidan, but the layover was too short, so getting off wasn’t possible. Flight attendant Lesly Stephens overheard me say what I wanted to do and offered to go. I was so pleasantly surprised by her willingness to help me. Well, Lesly got the hat, and the next day Aidan was in heaven with his new Royals gear! On what other airline would someone offer to do this?

Thank you, SWA! —Kevin Cahill

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from the editor

COME SEE US.

from the editor

PILLOW TALK

My wife made me the wisest advice ever.

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My cabin in New Hampshire contains one of my most valued possessions: a pillow my wife, Dorothy, needlepointed for me right after our honeymoon. It says, “SHUT UP AND READ.” I try to follow its wisdom every day, and usually succeed only with the reading part.

While “shut up and read” might not make an inspiring campaign for the American Library Association, Dorothy and I thought it might be useful advice when we had kids of our own. Now fully grown, our kids indeed turned out to be great readers. As for the shutting up part, well, let’s just say they both take after me.

That pillow really speaks to me these contentious days. While you can find plenty of books telling us how to listen, most of them miss the critical first part: shutting up. This means more than closing our mouths. It also means silencing the voices that shout in our heads whenever we encounter something foreign, distasteful, or against our unchallenged beliefs.

On page 54 you can read about Paul Cox, an ethnobotanist who has shut up in strange places, learning new languages and hearing the stories of local healers to find cures for our deadliest diseases. Rather than listen uncritically, he subjects what he hears to rigorous science. True listening, Paul teaches us, requires thinking and testing.

People like him who have perfected the difficult art of shutting up strike me as society’s most productive people, and they also seem the most spiritually evolved. Paul, a devout Mormon, finds more than cures in faraway places. He says he also finds the sacred. I like to think that, with enough practice, someday I too can shut up long enough to hear—not just the rowdy lyrics of the human condition but the strange music of the universe.

Jay Heinrichs EDITORIAL DIRECTOR @JAYHEINRICHS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DESIREE ESPADA (PILLOW)

Dear Reader,

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feedback DANIEL STEIGER

Talk to Us Send your letters to 2811 McKinney Ave., Suite 360, Dallas, TX 75204. For comments or questions directed at Southwest Airlines that don’t pertain to the magazine, please visit the “Contact Us” page at Southwest.com.

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Dear Editor,

“The Promise” [July 2016] came at a time when I needed it most. I was returning home after being with my daughter, and when I opened the magazine, there was the story. My return to California was both to go home, and to say goodbye to my foster mother (adopted by me), who filled the love gap for those who didn’t have the love they deserved as children or young adults. Just when I needed the encouragement to deal with the situation, I read “The Promise.” Two hours after arriving at the hospital, I was privileged to be at her bedside for her last moments. Thank you for providing such support.

Elzetta Southworth-Coley WARNER SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA

/We’re glad that Eva Holland’s story about scattering her mother’s ashes in Canyonlands National Park could help a little, Elzetta. May your life continue to be filled with love.

A STATUE’S HUG

On a recent flight, I read “The Marble Connection” by Wendy Lewis [July 2016]. I found it admirable that she would take the risk she did at that vulnerable point in her life. I found myself on the verge of tears as I read about the lady who approached her at the end of the article. I’ve received similar support at several points in my life, but have also had the honor of being able to help others who have come across my path. The article brought home how much we all need each other and how important it is that more of us take an outward step to help others. Thank you for printing such an inspiring story.

Charles Sampler CUMMING, GEORGIA

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PLAY Number

24

It would take days to play every hole of golf in Jacksonville.

A little birdie told us that you’d need nearly a month to take a swing at the 70-plus courses located in and around this forefriendly city. (And that’s only if you hit the links from 7 a.m. to sunset and reach the 18th every four hours.) Navigating those 1,300 holes would lead you from historic Hyde Park Golf Club— where legends like Ben Hogan and Byron Nelson have made the rounds—to picturesque Ponte Vedra Beach, where you can brave TPC Sawgrass’ notorious 17th. So go ahead and clear your schedule. We just hope you’ve been working on your long game.

GREEN WITH ENV Y If you’re wiped out by the time you reach the back nine, head to the World Golf Hall of Fame in nearby St. Augustine to see how the masters did it.

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/ WASHINGTON, D.C. Grilled eggplant, roasted tomatoes, and the North African chili pepper paste harissa help balance Kapnos’ octopus.

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Ravi Kapur needed to recalibrate. In 2011, after more than a decade cooking at some of San Francisco’s finest restaurants, he left the kitchen to spend time with his newborn son. One day, he tossed a handful of golden raisins into a pan, followed by red onion and a little ginger. “These curried raisins were so good that I knew I needed them on something, and octopus seemed like the perfect dancing partner” he says.

So when he opened his first restaurant—the Hawaiianinspired Liholiho Yacht Club—in 2015, he joined the raisins and roasted octopus with briny Castelvetrano olives and creamy butterball potatoes. The result is a sweet-tart dish that draws from a cupboard of eclectic culinary worlds and, at least on paper, makes little sense.

For Kapur, that’s the idea.

“This dish doesn’t sound traditional, but why not?”

/ NEW ORLEANS

Helmed by a James Beard winner, La Petite Grocery lends a Southern flair with chow-chow relish.

/ ST. LOUIS

Público’s Latininspired take is grilled over a wood fire, and then paired with acidic Veracruz sauce, chorizo, and paprika.

/ ATLANTA

Korean flavors like gochujang and miso dominate the charred Spanish octopus at The Optimist.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GREG POWERS (KAPNOS), LA PETITE GROCERY, PÚBLICO AND ANDREA SMITH (THE OPTIMIST)

Octopus

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WORK Solution

important data that help us understand what’s fundamentally of value to us.”

Describe what it means to be “hooked.”

“When we’re hooked, we treat our emotions as fact, and we let them direct our actions. An example is someone who says, ‘I feel like a fraud, so I may as well shut up.’ As a result, he doesn’t contribute to the conversation at hand.”

Walk This Why

Harvard psychologist Susan David wants you to get in touch with your emotions—but probably not in the way you think.

Test your emotional IQ by taking the quiz at susandavid.com.

ILLUSTRATION BY BENEDETTO CRISTOFANI

F1_solution_kt.indd 37

What is emotional agility?

“It’s the ability to be with yourself, to be with your inner chatter, to be with your emotions in a way that’s courageous, compassionate, and curious,” says David, author of Emotional Agility: Get Unstuck, Embrace Change, and Thrive in Work and Life. “Courageous because some of these emotions require us to face up to our own inadequacies.

Compassionate because you have to be able to treat yourself kindly and not be overly critical. And curious because our thoughts and emotions contain

How can we unhook?

“Many of us try to unhook from our emotions by bottling—we minimize emotions or try to rationalize them. On the surface, this looks very productive.

However, our emotions are one of the core ways we communicate with ourselves, so by casting them aside we shut down an important source of information. In order to truly unhook and become emotionally agile, you have to be able to acknowledge your emotions without being controlled by them.”

What else can we do to be more emotionally agile?

“Ask yourself, ‘Am I operating from a place of being intentional and connected to what’s truly important to me?’ When your sense of what’s important to you is front and center, you’re less likely to be negatively impacted by what everyone else is doing or saying. I call it ‘walking your why.’” september 2016 southwest 37

8/4/16 12:27 PM

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With Tribute’s concierge package ($125), a team member does the legwork for you, from collecting videos to editing the final product.

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Here’s how co-founder Andrew Horn describes the collaborative keepsake service: Tribute was inspired by the best gift I’ve received. For my 26th birthday, my girlfriend asked my closest friends and family members to each submit a video saying why they loved me—it took her hours to put together. Tribute turns that 10-hour process into a 10-minute one, and with our basic package ($25), there are just three steps. First, at Tribute.co, you add a photo, prompts, and the email addresses of everyone you want to participate. Then, those people visit a custom Tribute page and submit a video from their phone or computer. The third step is to compile and share. The videos flow into our custom video editor, which lets you rearrange them and add music. When the video is complete, you can share your MP4 file or choose from two other delivery options: a USB ($20) or a video greeting card ($50).

To connect someone to their community— to show people what they mean to others— it really is the most beautiful gift on earth.

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Point of View

My Mom, the Sports Fanatic

Despite long hours and tight budgets, my mother always found time for sports—and me. / BY MICHAEL J. MOONEY

I

n the parking lot, young women wearing yellow Brazil jerseys danced to the beat of samba drums. My mother and I weaved through the crowd, past families who had traveled thousands of miles to be here.

They linked arms and swayed, singing through the warm summer rain. As we walked toward the stadium, then through the gates and into the halls behind the seats, their chants reverberated across the pitch: “Olé, olé olé olé, Brazil! Brazil!”

My mom was flustered by the chaos. We’d already gotten lost in a part of the city we never visited, and now I was hurdling puddles, wearing a plastic poncho over the Homer Simpson T-shirt she’d bought me. More than anything, my mother was worried that I’d somehow be disappointed by the day.

ILLUSTRATION BY DANIEL FISHEL

F2_essay_KT.indd 41

Inside, the Dutch fans had already set up. There were massive flags—big enough to cover seven or eight rows of seats—and men and women marching back and forth in the tunnels with scarves and banners, all wearing the Netherlands’ traditional bright orange and chanting as loud as the Brazilians were singing.

Some of them wore oversized curly wigs, also bright orange. It was 1994, I was 13, and I had never seen such a spectacle.

This was a World Cup game, a quarterfinal match at the Cotton Bowl in Dallas, and as far as I was concerned, it was the most important event in history. I grew up the only child of a single mother, and though my mom worked hard, we didn’t have a lot of money. But knowing soccer was my favorite sport, and knowing World Cup september 2016 southwest 41

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games would be played 40 miles away, she entered a ticket lottery.

When her number came up for the quarterfinal, she paid face value: $300 for two seats in the 13th row.

This is what we did instead of taking a vacation that year.

My mom watched a lot of sports growing up. In the ’50s, she was a Yankees fan and rooted for Roger Maris. In the ’60s, she got into college basketball. Then it was ice hockey. Then boxing.

When I was young and watching Mike Tyson saw through his opposition, she had stories about watching Muhammad Ali fight George Foreman, broadcast live from Zaire. “Ali came out with the rope-a-dope,” she explained.

“It just wore Foreman out.” Later, after a company she worked for

together—whether it was watching in the living room, or her sitting on the sidelines during games and practices. Even with a tight budget, she always found the money for jerseys or cleats.

There were life lessons, of course. Once, when she heard me taunting an opponent in that singsongy voice kids sometimes employ, she immediately stopped it and forced me to apologize. She reminded me often that being

a “sore winner” is just as bad as being a sore loser. She told me that as long as I tried my best, it didn’t matter who won or lost.

When I was 10, she started playing an early version of fantasy football with some of the guys from her office. Rosters were filled out with ink and paper and everyone got the stats out of the newspaper, and then translated them into fantasy points. I was fascinated by what seemed like

In the 13 years I played sports, I can count the number of games she missed on one hand. was bought by a firm in St. Louis and she didn’t like the new management, she rooted against all St. Louis teams for years.

It’s not clear if I first liked sports because of her, or if she liked sports even more after having a son. On playgrounds and in parks and streets, I played a lot of football and baseball and basketball, but I didn’t like anything as much as I liked soccer. And even if, like most people of her generation, she thought the game was strange and foreign, she recognized the chance to bond. Looking back, I know now that she felt guilty about working long hours.

Sports were a way to spend time

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a competition of sports knowledge, and we went over her team together every week. Mondays and Tuesdays in the fall meant folded up newspapers and a legal pad full of scribbled names and numbers, and she’d take hours deliberating her choices. Her two favorite players were Jerry Rice and a high-scoring kicker named Pete Stoyanovich, who went on to become the kicking double in Ace Ventura, Pet Detective.

She was typically reserved, calm.

Except when a game was on. She’d get so carried away, wincing theatrically when a ball sliced foul; stopping mid-conversation to yell “Get him!

Get him!” as a defensive end chased a quarterback; putting both of her little fists in the air and shouting in a startlingly deep voice when our team finally scored. No matter what else was going on in the world, in those moments that’s all there was.

As a teenager, I was less fun to watch sports with. I took everything too seriously, and I would sometimes Shhh her during the games.

The soccer field that day looked like the greenest green either of us had ever seen.

(Teenagers are not great people; I’ve since apologized.) Still, in the 13 years I played sports, I can count the number of games she missed on one hand.

When I went away to college— to the University of Texas—she started rooting for the Longhorns.

We talked on the phone every Sunday, and during football season she never failed to mention what she thought of the game that week.

When I became a writer, she excitedly followed along, asking all about my encounters with Tim Tebow and J.J. Watt. She bought newspapers and magazines the first day they came out—and awkwardly showed the clerk my byline while explaining that she was my mother.

When she got sick last year, I wanted to take care of her the way

she’d taken care of me. There were scary moments, nights in the ICU, and long hospital stays. It made me feel guilty for not having spent enough time with her. She wasn’t always up to talking, but when she was, we talked a lot about sports.

She’d ask for updates on my fantasy teams and praise my receiver-heavy strategy. “But none of them are as good as Jerry Rice was,” she said.

When you’re surrounded by tubes and beeping machines, even the arbitrary distractions in life seem important.

She’s been feeling better recently.

Not long ago we were having lunch at one of those restaurants with 20 different games on at all times, and we started talking about that World Cup game. How she had been nervous about driving so far and

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studied a map all morning. How the Brazilian singing and the Dutch chanting actually seemed to blend together. How the soccer field that day looked like the greenest green either of us had ever seen.

She told me she couldn’t believe her good luck at the time, winning the lottery for the best tickets. She told me she couldn’t believe the prices either, but that she never regretted buying them.

We talked about the beautiful footwork of the Brazilian team, with one-named superstars like Romario and Bebeto and Dunga, and the elegant long game of the Netherlands. It was hard to root for either team over the other, but we were sitting in a section of Brazil fans, so we cheered along with them. After the rain let up, she even started singing along. The first half ended with the score 0-0.

The second half was completely different. Brazil scored twice, then the Netherlands came back to tie it. With less than 10 minutes to play, a Brazilian defender named Branco sent a free kick screaming around a wall of defenders and past the keeper for the winning goal. My mom stood up, put both of her fists in the air, and yelled, and we talked about that moment the whole way home. That night, commentators said it was probably the tournament’s best game.

We both remember it so clearly, down to the shirt I was wearing that day. Our memories seem to build upon one another. As we sat there talking about it, I could see her transported to another time and place. She smiled and we came to the same conclusion: It was a good vacation.

Michael J. Mooney is a New York Times best-selling author. He writes for ESPN the Magazine, Rolling Stone, GQ, and Texas Monthly. His stories have appeared Monthly in multiple editions of The Best American Sports Writing.

STAND UP TO CANCER IS A PROGRAM OF THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY FOUNDATION (EIF), A 501(C)(3) CHARITABLE ORGANIZATION. IMAGES FROM THE STAND UP TO CANCER 2012 AND 2014 SHOWS. THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION FOR CANCER RESEARCH (AACR) IS STAND UP TO CANCER’S SCIENTIFIC PARTNER.

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8/3/16 11:01 AM

Carrie’s new Sunday Night Football theme song debuts this month.

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star turn Ten years after winning American Idol, the chart-topping, arena-packing girl from small town Oklahoma has proven her staying power. The only person left to convince of Carrie Underwood’s superstar bona fides? Herself. /STORY AND MUSIC PICKS

BY ALISON BONAGURO

EVERY NIGHT, before Carrie Underwood slips into her concert outfit and readies herself under the arena stage, she kisses her 18-month-old son Isaiah goodnight and puts him to bed.

Once she grabs ahold of the mic—in Chicago or Phoenix or Kansas City or Houston—she looks out at the sea of fans, their screams a welcoming symphony, and kicks things into gear with “Renegade Runaway.” But first, she has to talk herself up in order to “get out on stage and be Carrie Underwood.”

“When the lights go down, and everybody is cheering, and I’m underneath the stage, standing on the lift, I definitely get an adrenaline rush,” she says. “I like knowing numbers, so I’ll tell myself, ‘16,000 people came out here tonight. They paid their hard-earned money. They’re here, they’re excited, and you’ve got this.’ I talk myself up so that when the lights are on me, I’m off to a running start.”

Carrie has played more than 500 shows since winning American Idol in 2005, so it would seem she has officially got this. And yet, she’s still very much that quiet girl from Checotah, Oklahoma, who needs a pep talk before she can be the star of her own sold-out concerts.

On this year’s Storyteller tour, she’s making close to 100 stops in nearly 100 cities, but her roots as a performer go all the way back to singing in church at 3 years old. She’s played every kind of stage, from the 10-by-10 wooden platforms of county fairs to the center stages of the arenas she frequents today. In between, there have also been laid-back amphitheaters where she tells stories and connects one-on-one with fans. (Although, she admits, a rowdy arena crowd feeding her 90 minutes of energy is good for her soul.)

The gift she has for making any stage feel like home comes from singing in church choirs and school plays, and when

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Carrie at age 3

“I was always the entertainment.

At family reunions, my parents were always so proud —almost embarrassingly so— and they’d be like, ‘Carrie, sing.’

That all helped get me used to being in front of people.”

Alison Bonaguro writes for Men’s Health, Women’s Health Health, and CMT.com.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF RANDEE ST.NICHOLAS (PREVIOUS PAGE) AND CARRIE UNDERWOOD

she joined a band as a teenager, playing bars in nearby Fort Smith, Arkansas (her mom shuttled her the hour each way). Her live shows now pull something from every single one of those performances. “I don’t necessarily remember the first time I took a stage, because I was always the entertainment. At family reunions, my parents were always so proud—almost embarrassingly so—and they’d be like, ‘Carrie, sing.’

That all helped get me used to being in front of people.”

Once she’d honed her craft, she did some time on the fair and fest circuit.

When she was around 15, the Underwoods would joke that Carrie opened for superstar country band Diamond Rio at a fest

in Arkansas. “But I totally didn’t open for Diamond Rio. I’d go on at noon and they’d play that night.”

Her only pre-show ritual back then was to climb into the ruffled satin skirt and vest her mother sewed for her (and cowgirl boots—there were always cowgirl boots), and then curl her blond hair until she had a head full of uniform ringlets. Now that she’s older, a little wiser, all she insists on is a goodnight kiss from Isaiah and a backstage prayer with her band every night.

During those early years, Carrie was doing more than just blossoming into a country singer. She was turning into a genuine country fan. She saw her first concert—Alan Jackson and Faith Hill at a fair—when she was 10. Next came a handful of shows by Bryan White, a fellow Okie who peaked in the mid ’90s, right when she was learning what it meant to really get behind an artist. “I was a member of his fan club … I had the posters, I had a membership card, I had a pillowcase. I’m pretty sure that pillowcase is still floating around some place.”

With her touring schedule, it’s tough to find time to fangirl like she used to. But in the past few years she’s managed to catch Garth Brooks, Coldplay, Bon Jovi, and Keith Urban. Her pillowcase days are likely behind her, though.

Instead, she’s turned her affection elsewhere. Her baby Isaiah, often rocking his Carrie Underwood All Access T-shirt, will be on the road with her through November. Just like other parents, her Instagram is filled with his every move—Isaiah watching Disney cartoons, Isaiah snuggling on the tour bus, Isaiah asleep in the studio with his dad (the Nashville Predators’ Mike Fisher).

And like those other parents, Carrie is always searching for that elusive, perfect balance. “I want to be a great mom, a great artist, and a great entertainer. We’re all about trying to figure it out,” she says, “and make sure that nothing is suffering.”

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PHOTO COURTESY OF MICHAEL GOLDMAN FOR DENVER ARTS & VENUES (RED ROCKS)

the 10 best places to see live music These jaw-dropping venues are a destination unto themselves.

RED ROCKS

morrison, colorado Since 1941, Red Rocks has considered Mother Nature its architect, for it was she who put this acoustic wonder together at 6,450 feet above sea level.

Wear shoes comfortable enough for a little climbing.

ENCORE Drive up to

Golden and order a Fat Randy’s IPA at Holidaily Brewing Co., the state’s lone gluten-free brewery.

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Bluegrass Underground mcminnville, tennessee

Only 600 people can attend each show, because that’s all the Volcano Chamber can hold. Softly lit by an antique crystal chandelier, these mountain music concerts go down in the Cumberland Caverns, 333 feet below the surface. What’s unearthed is some of the purest bluegrass around. encore If you’re in town on a Saturday, check out Mud Bums for the low-country boil.

RYMAN AUDITORIUM

RAVINIA FESTIVAL

The music here can bring you a little closer to the Lord: The Ryman was built in 1892 as the Union Gospel Tabernacle. Every show is made a bit more colorful due to light filtering through the stained glass windows, and you’ll find your seat in an honestto-God church pew.

Come armed for a picnic. The lawn at this gem on Chicago’s coveted north shore holds about 13,000 people, who flock to see a wide range of music, from Lauryn Hill and John Fogerty to a Winnie the Pooh kids concert series. The venue sits in a wooded area, and speakers and lights are nestled into the trees, so you'll relish every note.

nashville, tennessee

encore Just two blocks down Broadway, Merchants serves up fried green tomatoes with house pimento cheese.

highland park, illinois

encore Movie buffs should swing by two homes in the neighborhood, from Risky Business and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off.

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Masonic Amphitheatre

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF BLUEGRASS UNDERGROUND, GRANADA THEATER, AND CHUCK ALMAREZ (MASONIC AMPHITHEATRE)

clifton forge, virginia

How’s this for homework? Designed by architecture students at Virginia Tech University, the venue's seating is woven into the landscape, and the metal-clad acoustic shell arching across the stage was sculpted to project sound. encore In Covington, take an Insta-worthy shot at the LOVEwork art installation at Humpback Bridge.

GRANADA THEATER

THE RAVE

You’ll find it hard to believe this legendary 1946 Art Deco building got its start as a movie house, because the stage seems built for sound. And the plush seats mean you can enjoy the show— and cocktails— in total comfort.

The result of modern sound engineering harmonizing with a 90-year-old landmark, the Eagles Ballroom at the Rave—in the heart of the oft-overlooked Milwaukee music scene—boasts a 25,000-square-foot oval wooden dance floor and a stunning domed ceiling to match.

dallas, texas

encore Grab a ribeye-and-Whiz cheesesteak and a frozen mai tai at the Truck Yard.

milwaukee, wisconsin

encore Make time for the heavenly pork chop sandwich at Elsa’s on the Park.

GORGE AMPHITHEATRE

george, washington Thanks to breathtaking views of rivers, mountain ranges, and vineyards, you’ll be bowled over before you even hear the first song. encore Book a desert yurt at Cave B Inn, a short walk away.

MUSIC FARM CHARLESTON

CONCERTS AT WENTE VINEYARDS

Smack in the middle of downtown, this 1857 railroad storage depot has been renovated and reimagined for fans of hip hop, rock, reggae, country, and everything in between. It’s standing room only, but underage guests are welcome, so bring the whole family.

You know what pairs nicely with wine?

Acoustic guitars. The naturally stunning performance space at this northern California winery attracts classic A-list artists like Diana Ross and Jackson Browne, and the white tablecloth sunset dinners on the lawn aren’t bad either.

encore Check in at the legendary Mills House Wyndham Grand Hotel, or at least grab a drink in its Fountain Courtyard.

encore Head into downtown Livermore for a croissant doughnut at the always open Donut Wheel.

charleston, south carolina

livermore, california

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issue 09 2016 / page 55

flying foxes, caribbean monkeys, a tiny laboratory in a wyoming cabin, and a young

mormon missionary

who became a samoan chief before pursuing one of life’s greatest

medical mysteries. *

The Storied Man

by Jay Heinrichs illustration by Jonathan Bartlett

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paul alan cox

arrived alone on the remote Samoan island of Savaii when he was all of 19 years old. a devout mormon sent by the church on a mission, he settled in Fatuvalu, a traditional village on the northern coast with fewer than 200 people.

One day, a high chief named Aumalosi came to visit from nearby Letui village. The chief, who didn’t speak English, sat down in Paul’s hut and began uttering what seemed like strange noises, breaking down the Samoan language syllable by syllable and gesturing for Paul to repeat them.

The chief came back day after day, month after month, walking the 4 miles each way, and the syllables turned into long passages. Paul learned that Aumalosi was reciting local proverbs and excerpts of speeches from high chiefs.

One afternoon when Aumalosi arrived at Paul’s hut, the young American was prone on his mat, very sick. By then, Paul could speak enough Samoan to apologize for being unable to do the lesson.

“I did not come for the lesson,” Aumalosi replied. He emptied the contents of a woven coconut-leaf basket onto the mat: condensed milk, tinned peaches, gingersnap cookies, and other imported delicacies. “Perhaps you are sick because you are not used to our food,” he said. Aumalosi had gone to the local district store and spent all his money on food the American could eat.

“I have spent much of the last 40 years trying to pay back the contents of that coconut basket,” Paul, now 63, says. The unorthodox path inspired by this quest includes—incongruously—establishing a national park, launching a cosmetics line,* line, and earning international acclaim for his contributions to medicine.

Paul left Samoa after two years and returned to his studies at Brigham Young University, graduating valedictorian with a degree in philosophy and botany. He went on to earn degrees in ecology and biology at the University of Wales and Harvard (where he also twice won the Bowdoin Prize for essay writing, a feat earlier accomplished by Ralph Waldo Emerson). While at Harvard, a professor recognized Paul’s unusual background and

Paul struck a deal with NuSkin to produce cosmetics (plant oils for skin care, mostly) based on indigenous knowledge.

Proceeds go to his nonprofit, Seacology.

encouraged him to pursue ethnobotany, a field that requires expertise in plant science, anthropology, and languages (along with the faith that people who have lived off the same land for thousands of years must know something about their environment). Quickly becoming a star in the field, he taught for 14 years at BYU, until the king of Sweden appointed him to a prestigious chair at Uppsala University.

Today he makes his home in Jackson, Wyoming, where he and his team at the Institute for EthnoMedicine conduct groundbreaking research in an unassuming residential cabin. When I visited in April, I watched Paul speak snippets of Mandarin to a pair of Taiwanese tourists, and Spanish to a Mexican waiter. He interpreted an unreleased Swedish documentary film and explained the Samoan concept of time using snatches of Samoan phrases.

When I asked how many languages he speaks, he lost count past a dozen or so, and then he told a story.

He was working with the Minangkabau hill tribes in Indonesia, trying to learn their language, when a group took him to the place where their ancestral queen lived. In his best Minangkabauan he told them, “Surely your queen had a beautiful palace.” Suddenly, everybody was laughing; one guy was hyperventilating. It turns out he had complimented the ancient queen on her private parts. “No matter what language

56 southwest september 2016

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Paul (center) and his team at their cabin in Jackson, Wyoming.

From left: James Metcalf, Rachael Dunlop, Sandra Banack, and James Powell.

it is, I always screw up,” he says.

When visiting indigenous people for the first time, Paul believes, you should assume the role of a puppy that just made a mess on the rug.

“The second we walk into a village we’re messing up their culture. We just don’t understand it. But people don’t kill the puppy that soiled the carpet. They teach it.”

In 1985, back in Samoa doing research, Paul watched as a healer brewed a tea from the bark of the mamala tree and used it to treat hepatitis. Paul sent the tea to researchers at the National Cancer Institute, who found that its powerful antiviral qualities could relieve the infection in T-cells. It PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDSAY LINTON

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This was the origin of Paul’s nonprofit, Seacology. Years later, supermodel Christie Brinkley held a fundraiser for him in New York. Afterward, paparazzi appeared. “I’m really sorry,” Paul told her.

“These guys follow ethnobotanists everywhere.”

became one of the leading drugs used to treat HIV/ AIDS, and Paul negotiated a deal to ensure that part of the profits go to the Samoan people. He then worked with the U.S. Congress and the government of American Samoa to create the United States’ 50th national park.

Later, he brought his wife and four young children to Samoa. They stayed for a year, living without plumbing or electricity in a fale, or thatch hut.

They were supposed to blend in, but while they were there the villagers faced a terrible dilemma: The government required the island to build a new school, whose construction would cost $50,000.

The only way to pay for the school was to sell their 30,000-acre forest to loggers. Paul convinced the chiefs to halt the logging while he made a quick trip back to the States to raise the money. The school was built, the forest preserved.* preserved.

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Savaii declared him a chief, a title that comes with the name Nafanua, after a goddess who first saved the island’s forests. Objective ethnobotanists aren’t supposed to get themselves declared chiefs, any more than faithful Mormons are supposed to be given the names of goddesses. But Paul has defied convention at every turn.

In 1997, the Nafanua published a page-turning book about the experience titled, appropriately, Nafanua.

That same year he was awarded the Goldman Environmental Prize, known as the “Green Nobel,” and TIME named him one of its 11 “Heroes of Medicine.”

Still, the biggest challenge of his career lay ahead.

The Poison That Gave Us Air

For decades, researchers had been flummoxed by a deadly illness suffered by as many as a quarter of the Chamorro people of Guam. Shortly after World War II, doctors began reporting that the people were coming down with a strange combination of Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s, and ALS (or Lou Gehrig’s disease).

The Chamorros themselves called it lytico-bodig, “listless paralysis.”

They were suffering at a rate up to a hundred times higher than the rate of ALS elsewhere. Neurologists tried for five decades to identify the cause, ruling out genetics.

When Paul learned of the disease, he immediately thought of a possible trigger: flying foxes, giant fruit bats with wing spans reaching up to 5 feet. (Paul had studied their role in pollinating rain forests for his doctoral dissertation at Harvard.) He knew that they inhabited the island of Guam; that the bats eat vast quantities of seeds from cycads, a tropical plant that dates back to the dinosaurs; and that natives of the Pacific islands have been eating these bats for millennia. Perhaps a toxin in those seeds was bioaccumulating, building up in

the bats the way pesticides do in the environment.

Neurologists hadn’t explored this relationship, so Paul did what comes naturally: He and two other scientists, Sandra Banack and Susan Murch, flew to Guam and talked to the Chamorros themselves. They wrote the names of local foods on 3-by-5 cards, and then asked the interviewees to sort the cards in order of their favorites. Flying foxes consistently landed at the top of the pile. Not only did the people eat bats, they said they were delicious.

For centuries, the bats had been a sustainable food, until Americans came to Guam after the war, bringing guns. Since the bats have no natural predators, they simply circled their home tree when startled by gunfire, making them easy to pick off. The Chamorros started consuming them in such numbers that soon the bats began to disappear.

Paul and his colleagues suspected that the flying foxes themselves weren’t to blame for the high rates of disease. The real source, they thought, lay in what the bats were eating. Cycad seeds contain high concentrations of an amino acid called BMAA, produced by cyanobacteria within the plant’s roots.

Also known as blue-green algae, cyanobacteria have been around 3.5 billion years, growing in deserts, oceans, lakes, and even in some car radiators and air conditioning filters. They’re probably the chief reason our atmosphere changed two billion years ago, in what scientists grandly call the Great Oxygenation Event, enabling the evolution of oxygen-breathing species like flying foxes and humans.

But BMAA is also a potent neurotoxin; if taken in massive amounts, it can cause paralysis or death, while the more insidious effects happen slowly. To begin at the beginning of the food chain, it goes like this: The cycads live in synergy with cyanobacteria in the roots. Cyanobacteria produce BMAA, which gets taken up in the cycad seeds. Bats eat the

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seeds, concentrating the BMAA. Chamorros eat the bats.

Still: How could BMAA cause lytico-bodig?

As the bats vanished from Guam, the Chamorros began importing them from other islands. These imported bats, they confided to Sandra Banack, didn’t taste as good—nor did they contain high levels of BMAA. A decade or two after the native bats began declining, so did the disease.

Paul and Sandra reasoned that BMAA was causing a slow breakdown in the proteins of the central nervous system. Analysis of victims’ brain and nerve tissues had revealed the exact same defects as victims of ALS, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s, including tangled-up proteins. (Medical researchers call them “tangle diseases,” and they’re related to a host of incurable neuronal ailments, including Lewy body dementia, Pick’s disease, and supranuclear palsy.) If the scientists could isolate the process behind lytico-bodig, then they just might find a hint at a remedy for one of them.

Possibly even all of them.

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As a boy, Paul grew up hiking and climbing in the wilds of the American West. His grandfather was a lifelong conservationist; his mother a fisheries biologist and administrator for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; his father a U.S. Fish and Wildlife agent, national park ranger, and state park superintendent. Paul was so taken by the wilderness that his childhood hero was Glenn Exum, the legendary climber who pioneered a route—now called the Exum Ridge—up part of the Grand Teton in Wyoming. One of Paul’s favorite stories: While charting a course through the mountains, Exum reached a spot where he couldn’t descend safely, and where the only move he could make was a leap to an uncertain hold. In other words, a leap

of faith. “It’s a trope I think of a lot,” Paul says today. “I work with a lowpercent odds of success.”

Following the revelations in Guam, Paul and his colleagues collaborated with Australian researchers and discovered that BMAA displaces a key amino acid, L-serine, in nerve proteins. Paul wondered if L-serine—a natural component of sweet potatoes, tofu, and even bacon—could offer some sort of clue. So he traveled to a place that was free of tangle diseases and met directly with the people.

The villagers of Ogimi, on the Japanese island of Okinawa, boast a higher percentage of centenarians than anywhere else in the world. (“Hundred-year-old women walking as gracefully as ballerinas,” Paul says.) He learned that their diet, based on tofu and seaweed, contained extraordinary doses of L-serine. He seemed to be on the right track, but lithe centenarians don’t actually prove anything.

Cue the monkeys.

Outnumbering people on the Caribbean island of St. Kitts, vervet monkeys were introduced from Africa by slavers several centuries ago.

A biomedical facility on the island maintains monkeys for research, and Paul’s team organized a study to examine the effects of BMAA and L-serine. For 44 days, a group of vervets received bananas after their regular meal. Some of the fruit contained BMAA, some L-serine, some BMAA with L-serine, and some contained rice flour as a control.

After 140 days, tissue samples from the monkeys’ brains and central nervous systems got sent to the Brain Endowment Bank at the University of Miami’s School of Medicine. Sure enough, the tissues with the BMAAfed monkeys revealed brain tangles and beta-amyloid plaques, sticky gunk formed from the membranes around destroyed nerve cells—classic hallmarks of Alzheimer’s. “I was speechless,” Paul says. What’s more, the vervets given L-serine and BMAA showed just half the symptoms of

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the monkeys given BMAA alone. The team repeated the experiment with twice the monkeys and got the same result. What they saw in the slides looked exactly like the brain tissue of the Chamorro patients.

“Our sense was that this disease might represent a neurological Rosetta Stone,” Paul says. “And if we could figure out what was going on in this village, you might get a deep understanding of the diseases.” All of the tangle diseases are characterized by “misfolding” proteins in the nerve cells—the proteins tau and amyloid for Alzheimer’s, and other proteins for each of the other neuronal diseases. So in other words, by figuring out just one disease—learning what caused the protein to misfold—they might learn the mechanism behind the misfolding proteins in the other diseases. Thus, the vervet slides showing misfolded tau—a sure sign of Alzheimer’s—was their Rosetta Stone. They could see it on the molecular level. BMAA was homing in on the proteins, swapping itself for one of the 20 amino acids

In our culture, doctors think of the body as a machine.

But what if the illness is the machine? and killing the nerve cells. And that amino acid is L-serine.

Why L-serine in the diets of vervets and Okinawans seems to slow or stop the misfolding remains a mystery. (Fruit flies given BMAA become paralyzed, while they’re more likely to remain normal if given L-serine.) One possibility is a

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flooding-the-field hypothesis: Plentiful L-serine in the blood increases the odds that that amino acid, rather than BMAA, will get inserted into the protein.

Paul thinks another phenomenon may be at play: L-serine somehow sends up an alert, serving as a kind of vaccine.

Your Body May Not Be a Google Car

Different people have different paradigms for illness, Paul says. And our own paradigms tend to change. In Fiji, you may be sick because you failed to respect your ancestors. In Samoa, maybe you’re not getting along with your family, or maybe you’re angry about something and it’s affecting your health. In our culture, doctors and researchers like to think about the body as a machine.

A disease is a kind of malfunction of that machine, so you cure the disease by fixing the machine.

This paradigm may help explain medical science’s focus on genetics.

Our genes are considered our software, our DNA like the programming in a highly advanced Google car. Understand the code and you can understand a problem with the machine. But what if our body isn’t a machine?

A real machine is relatively predictable. Take one that makes gummy bears in a candy factory. It bangs out one identical gummy bear after another; the manufacturer can predict even the tiniest variability in size and weight. Our bodies are not like that. We’re unpredictable.

Besides, Paul says, “Other cultures don’t have this reductionist view of our souls being separate from our bodies.” He believes the soul is not a line of code.

“So,” he says, “I decided that neurodegenerative illnesses are not malfunctions of the machine. They are the machine.” After all, each disease tends to do exactly the same thing to the protein in nerve cells, over and over. Then he thought: What if

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we could disrupt those machines?

He points out that most researchers believe that Alzheimer’s is caused by beta amyloid, the main ingredient in the plaques that form in patients’ brains. A minority say that the disease is caused by tau, the protein that collapses into tangles. “What if they’re both wrong?” Paul asks.

“What if this neuropathology is not the cause, but the symptom?”

In other words, what if the tangle

diseases involved a gene-environment interaction that caused a switch to be turned on or off ?

Imagine, say, BMAA turning the switch on, causing a cascade of disruptions in the nerve protein, and L-serine turns the switch off. Imagine if a lifetime diet of L-serine, like that of the Ogimi residents in Okinawa, caused the switch to stick permanently in the off position, and you never get the disease?

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Paul, however, doesn’t present this notion as science just yet. “It’s just total baloney by me.”

The Lake Effect

After Paul’s group began publishing their findings, he heard from a leading ALS researcher at Dartmouth College’s Geisel School of Medicine. Elijah Stommel had discovered that a disproportionate number of patients lived on a New Hampshire lake that, like many bodies of water around the world, contained blooms of bluegreen algae—cyanobacteria.

Other researchers began reporting clusters in Biscayne Bay, off Miami, and among oyster farmers in France.

In one scene from the Swedish documentary film that Paul showed me in Jackson, he stands in the stark white desert of Qatar with a canteen. He pours some water onto the ground and— voila!—a blue-green circle of BMAA-packed cyanobacteria appears. As the Earth’s climate changes, scientists say warmthloving blue-green algal blooms are becoming increasingly common. Pollution and fertilizer runoff also cause the blooms, fuzzy clumps you can pull out of the water. And as the blooms increase, so do the rates of neuronal diseases. Evidence is mounting that patients’ genes are interacting with the environment to trigger these diseases.

Each of us has a genetic makeup that helps predict the diseases we may suffer from, so most research gets directed at determining which of those genes are involved in which diseases.

Several individual genes have already been implicated in ALS. The problem is, genes aren’t the only factor. In fact, 90 percent of ALS patients have no family connection to the disease.

Besides, genes are not fate.

Elements in the environment can

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turn genes on and off. The ALS genes discovered so far, for example, only affect a tiny fraction of ALS patients. What’s more, their discovery only moves researchers a very little way toward a remedy.

Environmental factors are hard to pin down, though, especially with tangle diseases. “We’re saying there’s a 10-, maybe 30-year window from when you’re exposed to when the disease pops up,” Sandra Banack says. “How do you study an environment toxin for 10 to 30 years before you get sick?

Epidemiologically, it’s a very difficult problem to study environmental triggers. So it’s just easier to work with genetics.”

In other words, focusing almost exclusively on genetic research follows the same protocol as the drunk looking for his car keys under the street light: That’s the only place he can see. Paul and his team are trying to shine a light in a different direction.

The Untangled Diet

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I was sitting at the conference table with Paul in his Jackson lab when he received an email from the Miami brain bank. It was big news: The tissues of the vervet monkeys fed BMAA revealed the second piece of the Rosetta Stone.

Besides showing the tangles and plaques of Alzheimer’s, they also displayed microglial activation in the central nervous system—a precursor to ALS. Here was further proof that the tangle diseases were being triggered by the same environmental factors.

Skeptical ALS researchers had told Paul’s team that their theories about BMAA and L-serine were well and good, but what about the spinal cord, the part of the nervous system where ALS does its worst work? Here was clear evidence for the first time.

Sandra Banack walked in, and when Paul told her the news, she

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sprinted over and hugged him.

“This is it!” she shouted. “This is proof!”

Will the critics be convinced?

“I could have the angel Gabriel come in and they still won’t be convinced,” Paul replied.

Still, the proof-gathering continues. The Food and Drug Administration approved a human trial in 2012 to test the safety of L-serine for ALS patients. (The FDA saw little risk since L-serine has been a part of the human diet for millennia—one of the key advantages of ethnobotany.) Next will come a phase two trial to determine whether L-serine relieves symptoms in early-onset ALS patients.

If that works (and there is no guarantee), then Paul will ask the FDA to recommend L-serine as a supplement for patients. After that: a trial with hundreds of patients, “and probably some pharmaceutical company will license the patent,” he says. Meanwhile, you can buy L-serine on Amazon.

I asked Sandra whether their team takes it, and she walked me back to an alcove with a sink, a stove, and a large tub of sparkling white powder. Heating up a teakettle, she stirred a spoonful of L-serine into a coffee cup and handed it over. It tasted a little like aspartame. “We’re all taking it,” she said.

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Late one night, Paul invited me to have ice cream at his home atop a butte overlooking the Tetons, the same mountains where his childhood hero took a literal leap of faith and managed to find a hold. Paul began another story, which, when you listen to enough of them, you realize they tend to begin and end with the sacred.

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for the sacred, and so when people tell me the frigate bird is sacred, I get that.”

He continued with what at first seemed like a non sequitur: “I was on the coast of Guadalcanal with people who worship the waki mani mani, which is a boy with the head of a fish who walks on the water. This was my Albert Schweitzer phase. He wrote that he wouldn’t even brush the ants off his arms, because they had the right to be there and he didn’t.

“So I’m climbing this big tree, and I had a local guy from the village with me. This great big fluorescent spider drops on my arm; it’s orange, like safety yellow orange, and I’m in my Schweitzer phase so I won’t brush him off. I say to my buddy from the village, ‘What do you call this?’ And he looks at it and he says, ‘Well, in my language we call it … death.’”

He laughed and dished out a generous bowl of ice cream.

“After a couple days the villagers say, ‘Why don’t you come with us?’ So we hike and we hike, and we swim this river and then we climb this mountain, and as we get near to the top, everybody falls silent. We get up there, and it’s a graveyard. They had taken cement and carried it on their backs, and they had stuck metal cups and forks and knives in the cement to mark the graves.

Nobody’s talking. We just stood there for a bit. This is important to these people. They had taken me to this special place, and I was really moved.”

He didn’t have to tell the moral. It has to do with understanding that the truth lies somewhere between science and story, listening and laboratory, body and soul.

Jay Heinrichs is the editorial director of this magazine. He is the bestselling author of Thank You for Arguing: What Aristotle, Lincoln, and Homer Simpson Can Teach Us About the Art of Persuasion.

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your adventure in

San Antonio

BY B E N MARS HALL

For a place that’s long been associated with a losing battle, today’s Alamo City is a win any way you slice it.

Want world-class cuisine? Affordable family fun? Rich history and tradition around every river bend? Well, mission accomplished. But first, tell us more about you.

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San Antonio HISTORY BUFFS Discover Lone Star legends, landmarks, and lore

Witte Museum This Smithsonian affiliate boasts one of the most comprehensive collections of early Texas art in the state. Fort Sam Houston Built in 1876, the base’s Quadrangle (free and open to the public) was once a supply depot for the U.S. Army. Institute of Texan Cultures Examine the stories and traditions of Texas’ earliest settlers in Texans One and All.

set in stone The missions were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015.

HERE TO STAY

HOTEL EMMA This 19th-century brewhouse turned boutique hotel in the Pearl District boasts 146 rooms, each with historical and luxurious touches.

THE CRYSTAL RIVER INN Indulge in spa packages, murder mystery weekends, or breakfast in bed at this romantic San Marcos retreat, built in 1883.

MENGER HOTEL A few friendly ghosts take up residence at this stately 157-yearold stay, which sits adjacent to the Alamo and just steps from the River Walk.

Visit Storied Structures

We aren’t saying forget the Alamo completely—just remember to venture a bit south to see her less crowded sister missions: Concepción, San José, San Juan, and Espada (above). You’ll need a full afternoon to hit all four, and biking the Mission Reach is the way to do it. Completed in 2013, this 8-mile extension of the River Walk includes trails, pedestrian bridges, pavilions, and portals to each of the centuries-old compounds. Guided tours and religious services are offered at each location, and San José’s mariachi Mass on Sunday afternoon is a Mission City must.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY F11PHOTO/ISTOCK (PREVIOUS PAGE), BOB HOWEN (MISSION), NICOLE FRANZEN (HOTEL EMMA), SAN MARCOS CVB (THE CRYSTAL RIVER INN) AND MENGER HOTEL

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San Antonio FOODIES reinventing the meal Chef Sohocki’s old-school approach to food is unmatched in the city.

Paramour S.A.’s swanky— and very first—rooftop bar just turned one.

Celebrate with a spicy, citrusy Jax Hammer cocktail.

Alamo Beer Co. Owner Eugene Simor sold beer out of his wife’s minivan before he opened this $8 million brewery to the public last year.

Local Coffee This San Antonio institution has four locations and its own roasting facility, Merit Roasting Co.

Indulge in Gourmet Fare

For the truest taste of San Antonio, make your way to a quiet corner of the River Walk near Pecan Street. Inside Restaurant Gwendolyn, chef Michael Sohocki’s unwavering food philosophy is on full display: All perishable items come from within 150 miles of his kitchen, a prep space that’s void of modern cooking techniques or gadgets. In a nod to pre-Industrial Revolution practices, Sohocki and his crew trade in blenders, microwaves, and deep fryers—anything with a plug—for mortars and pestles and hand-cranked meat grinders. The result? An upscale, prix-fixe menu that expertly showcases the region’s bounty.

BUDGET BITES

Where to break bread, not the bank L A GLORIA Chef Johnny Hernandez spent years researching Mexican street foods, and it shows—particularly in his rendition of a traditional tlayuda, a Oaxacan pizza.

FEAST The menu at this playful Southtown spot is mostly small plates, which makes it easy to share. Just please don’t touch our jack cheese mac.

HOT JOY This hip locale mixes and matches Tex-Mex and Asian flavors (think tater tot chaat and smoked brisket dan dan noodles) with surprising success.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANCISCO CORTEZ/RAMIREZWEBDESIGN.COM (RESTAURANT GWENDOLYN), JONATHAN ALONZO (LA GLORIA), AND CHRISTOPHER PEREZ (FEAST); COURTESY OF HOT JOY

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Grand Style and Cuisine of Consequence.

Visible history meets South Texas grandeur, punctuated with civilities that imbue your stay with delicious surprise. Once a 19th century Brewhouse, and now a landmark 146-room boutique hotel, Hotel Emma lives against the

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moments writ large and intimate.

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San Antonio CULTURE HOUNDS true colors De Richemont collaborated with local scholars to ensure the authenticity of the story.

CREATING A SCENE

BRISCOE WESTERN ART MUSEUM This River Walk gem weaves together the stories of individuals who shaped the American West, from cowboys to Native Americans.

MCNAY ART MUSEUM The state’s first modern art museum houses work by van Gogh, O’Keeffe, Picasso, and others.

Second Thursdays feature free admission, live music, food trucks, and beer.

See the Lights

Four nights a week, the story of San Antonio is splashed across the facade of San Fernando Cathedral during a mesmerizing, 24-minute light show. San Antonio: The Saga, the brainchild of French artist Xavier de Richemont, details key historic events (like the Battle of the Alamo) and figures (from Native American chiefs to Spurs players) set to a soundtrack of church hymns, beating drums, Spanish flamenco, and twangy guitars.

Shows are free and happen Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings at 9, 9:30, and 10.

Crisscross these culture-filled enclaves

WIMBERLEY GL ASSWORKS Watch as artists form 2,000-degree molten glass into one-of-akind pieces during free glassblowing demos in this San Marcos shop.

La Villita Historic Arts Village This charming stretch along the river is dotted with distinctive galleries, shops, and restaurants. Pearl District Architecture fiends will find plenty of eye candy at this energetic redevelopment project north of downtown. Market Square Take home authentic Mexican pottery, handcrafted leather goods, and tasty treats from this three-block outdoor plaza.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GILES PARSCALE (MCNAY ART MUSEUM); COURTESY OF XAVIER DE RICHEMONT (SAN FERNANDO CATHEDRAL), BRISCOE WESTERN ART MUSEUM, AND WIMBERLEY GLASSWORKS

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San Antonio FAMILY TRAVELERS PLAY STATIONS

Ditch those electronics for some fun in the sun WIMBERLEY ZIPLINE Cruise over canyons, creeks, and meadows in the heart of Hill Country on a series of 10 cables ranging in length from 150 to 900 feet.

KIDDIE PARK Snag a spot in line for the hand-carved carousel and the old-fashioned Ferris wheel at America’s oldest children’s amusement park.

MORGAN’S WONDERL AND This completely wheelchair-accessible theme park is the first in the world geared toward—and free for—individuals with special cognitive and physical needs.

stem-ulate your mind Tots can learn about science, technology, and engineering alongside Baxter the robot.

El Paraiso Ice Cream This family-run shop pumps out 10,000 tasty paletas (Mexicanstyle popsicles) a day.

Rio Vista Park Rent a tube or kayak and brave three exhilarating drops at Rio Vista Falls Dam in San Marcos.

Cascade Caverns Literally deep in the heart of Texas, this alluring limestone underworld stays at a cool 64 degrees year-round.

Keep the Kiddos Engaged

With so many things to build, solve, dream up, and discover at San Antonio’s new children’s museum, pint-size prodigies may find it difficult to, well, do it all. The DoSeum, which opened last year near Brackenridge Park, boasts two stories of hands-on, high-tech exhibits and an additional 39,000 square feet of outdoor space.

Youngins can write, record, and animate their own stories using 2D and 3D elements; crack codes and access secret spaces by solving math problems in Spy Academy; and interact with a robot named Baxter. Parents, don’t feel left out: You can play too.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KRISTIN DRAVES (WIMBERLEY ZIPLINE); COURTESY OF THE DOSEUM, KIDDIE PARK, AND MORGAN’S WONDERLAND

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GROW A FULLER, THICKER HEAD OF HAIR

Battery-operated and portable, Capillus hats let you treat your hair loss while maintaining your normal, on-the-go lifestyle.

If the thought of losing your hair makes you want to lose your mind, you’re not alone. The American Hair Loss Association has found that two-thirds of American men experience hair loss by age 35. But before you resign yourself to hiding under a ball cap for the rest of your life, consider this: What if, instead of covering your thinning hair, a hat could actually help to regrow it?

Capillus laser therapy caps do exactly that. The FDA-cleared hats are lined with low-level lasers that increase blood flow to the scalp, strengthen preexisting hair, and stimulate hair follicle regrowth. Simply wearing the batterypowered cap for 30 minutes every other day helps to slow, stop, and potentially reverse hair loss.

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF CAPILLUS, LLC

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The FDA-Cleared, physician-recommended cap that’s clinically proven to regrow hair – affordably and easily - is available now for men and women directly on our online store. Capillus laser therapy caps prevent progression of hair loss and regrow thinning hair. Hand-made individually in the USA, the Capillus82 is

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FOCUS ON MEN’S HEALTH

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

of the head, of course, and perhaps the face and the chest, as well. Very rarely do we hear of anyone pining after thicker back hair, or complimenting another on the unruly bits that sprout out of unexpected places. (“Nice beard,” sure. “Nice hairy knuckles,” not so much.) If you are unhappy with unwanted body hair, solutions do exist.

Hair removal has been a regular practice for millennia (ancient Egyptians created their own waxes out of beeswax and sugar), yet some still hold a stigma against male waxing. Why? Mostly due to misconceptions and fear of the unknown.

“My first time getting waxed was a little uncomfortable. It’s nerve-inducing to go into an environment where you’ll feel exposed,” admits Clark Gillespie, 43. “But after my second visit, I realized a few minutes of slight discomfort

resulted in over a month of no-fuss STAY STRONG, smoothness—I was completely sold.”

ENERGETIC, AND Clark’s been a regular at LunchBOX ACTIVE AS YOU AGE (A WAXING SALON) in Boise, Idaho, for the past three years.

No matter how healthy your “Waxing relieves me of stress and lifestyle, aging eventually gets the gives me self-confidence,” Clark best of everyone. You may have less says. “I don’t have to second-guess energy or strength than you used to, my body hair situation before a date, have inexplicably gained a few extra or before going shirtless at the pool. pounds, or have allowed stress to It helps me to relax and have a bettake a physical and mental toll. ter time. I also get my nose waxed While the effects of aging are and I breathe so much easier while certainly no one’s fault, that doesn’t sleeping because of it.” mean you have to sit idly by. Mdrive, “More and more men are a brand of testosterone supplements becoming loyal guests at our designed for men looking to salons nationwide,” says Jamie increase strength, stamina, and Dillon, LunchBOX’s marketing and overall vitality, can help bring you media director. “Some are athletes back to your prime. who wax because it makes them There are different products feel more aerodynamic or keeps depending on your specific need them cooler. Others are older men (an increase in stamina to make who pop in so they don’t have to it through a triathlon versus an fuss with tweezers or trimmers. increase in stamina just to make We welcome everyone.” it through the day), but the “hero

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LUNCHBOX

Aside from the aesthetic benefits of hair removal, many athletes have practical reasons to wax: Smooth skin is easier to treat when wounds occur, is more comfortable under tight-fitting athletic wear, and can provide a performance advantage (think aerodynamics).

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This is not an offer to sell or solicitation of an offer to buy. Offers are only made in states where we have complied with applicable law and an offer to sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy a franchise shall be made solely by a Franchise Disclosure Document.

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FOCUS ON MEN’S HEALTH

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Mdrive naturally boosts testosterone levels to help maximize athletic performance.

acidic chemical that has been linked to allergies, mouth ulcers, and canker sores. And yet it does an exemplary job whitening teeth, removing tough stains, breaking down plaque, preventing cavities, and eradicating bad breath.

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Studies suggest maintaining a healthy mouth may help ward off other medical issues.

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ingredient” in all of Mdrive’s YOU’RE NEVER formulas is an herb called KSM-66 FULLY DRESSED ashwagandha.

WITHOUT A SMILE “Ashwagandha is an eastern Indian form of ginseng,” explains One of the most attractive features Ron Pannuzzo, brand director of a man can have is a winning smile, Mdrive’s parent company, Dreamand it starts with good oral hygiene.

Brands. “It’s a powerful adaptogen Daily brushing and flossing is a [a natural substance that helps the great (and necessary) foundation, body adapt to stress], which results but anyone serious about eliminatin lowered levels of cortisol, aka the ing bad breath and preventing gum stress hormone.” Pannuzzo says he disease needs to take a step further. often gets feedback from athletes The CloSYS Oral Health System that feel a noticeable improvement —a line of dental products that in recovery—not just after exercise, includes toothpastes, rinses, and but during it, as well. sprays—is designed to keep your Clinical studies on KSM-66 have teeth white and mouth fresh while shown tremendous results. Among seriously maintaining oral wellness. studies on healthy men, the suppleThe products contain Cloralstan, a ments have shown to decrease body buffered, water-based solution that fat by 16.1 percent, increase arm has regulated amounts of chlorine muscle size by 17.1 percent, and redioxide and chlorite. Cloralstan is duce overall stress by nearly a third. safe to consume (the same compoMdrive is absolutely not a steroid nents are used to sanitize food and and the formulas contain nothing purify drinking water), but powerof the sort; the brand thoroughly ful enough to kill 99 percent of promotes healthy testosterone levels. bad bacteria within seconds.

And that’s all you need to positively The non-irritating, non-staining affect your energy, stamina, products are especially handy for strength, lean muscle, body fat, anyone with oral sensitivity. focus, and sex drive. With Mdrive CloSYS’s toothpaste is one of by your side, aging doesn’t stand the only products on the market a chance. that does not contain sulfates, an 88 southwest september 2016

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Fun!

Quick Study

BY DO U G PE TE RSON 1

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Crossword Answers on page 95

35 37 38

Across

25 Short note to a

48 Grandson of

1 5

32 Adjust a

49 55 56 57 59

9 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 23 24

Really impressed Salt Lake City college athletes Emirate on the Persian Gulf Sow’s mate Letters on a wedding invitation Shopping list entries Uneaten part of a pear Spiced Indian tea Goes to the polls One-hit wonder, for example Former Israeli leader Golda Paranormal showman Geller

cyberbuddy camera lens

33 Oxen’s harness 34 Bouncers check 36 37 39 40 41 42 43 47

them Cruise vessel Place for a strike In addition Sock-in-the-gut sound “What’s the big ___?”

More peculiar Longtime Tic Tac Dough host Tip jar drop-in

60 61 62 63 64

Adam and Eve Decisive time In the hold, say Competent Informal D.C. title Early video game company Bird on the Canadian dollar Lose steam Until now Give temporarily Make the first bet

Down

Once Upon a Time network 2 “Speak!” response 3 “Duke of ___” (1962 No. 1 hit) 4 Invented 1

39 41 42 44 45 46 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 58

Spiny ocean creature Concert souvenir that often lists tour dates ___-Picone (fashion label) Meat skewer Having variety Ideal world Letter after alpha Cry from the pews Mag. edition Mermaids’ realms Iditarod sled puller “In that case ...”

Not at all, slangily Doctor Who genre Birthday balloon material Fair-hiring letters Original SNL cast member Radner Short-lived ’50s Ford model Ticked off Commercial creators Glee star ___ Michele Reaches the sum of “You didn’t fool me!” ___ about (approximately) “That’s enough!”

Cookware coating Have in mind Citi Field squad Fresh Effects skin care brand Like a skyscraper Double-reed instrument Klutzy entrance Roll call reply Petting zoo sound Branch of Buddhism

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We love a good celebración.

It’s National Hispanic Heritage Month, and we think a big celebration is in order. We hope you’ll join us in honoring and appreciating this important month. We’ll worry about getting the confetti out of the carpet later.

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For more brain-training games from Gareth Moore, visit brainedup.com.

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How-To / Fill in the blank squares so that the numbers 1 to 9 appear once in every row, column, and 3-by-3 box.

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Easy

U R C S H E I A N S A I D K M N E E N W I T

T S H I R T

E V A N

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D I V E R S E

U T O P I A

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Spotlight LIGHTENED LOAD

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Southwest’s Cargo Teams have transported everything from laptops and classroom supplies to clothing that’s fit for the first day of school. They take pride in knowing that retailers and freight forwarders have come to expect—and depend on—their reliable service. (And, of course, our Cargo Teams are equally proud to play a small part in our Customers’ success.)

“Our Teams work hard to showcase

their commitment to our Cargo Customers by exceeding expectations through our world-renowned Hospitality, Customer Service, and reliable service,” says Matt Buckley, Southwest’s Vice President of Cargo & Charters.

When you choose Southwest Cargo to ship your products, you can expect the same Customer Service that you count on as a passenger. Our Teams refuse to deliver anything less than the stellar Hospitality and reliability that consistently earn industry recognition.

What’s next for our Cargo Teams? The upcoming holiday season. That shopping stretch might not officially start until November, but we’re already working to ensure merchandise is in place by the time you hit your favorite stores. It truly takes a Warrior Spirit to gear up for these shopping seasons, but don’t worry: We’re up to the challenge.

To learn more about Southwest Cargo, visit swacargo.com.

—Dan Landson

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

Southwest’s Cargo Teams always go the extra mile for their Customers.

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Flight Service

Please abide by public announcements from Flight Attendants concerning electronic devices.

En todos los casos, por favor rígete por los anuncios públicos y las solicitudes de los Sobrecargos con respecto a todos los aparatos electrónicos.

Inflight Entertainment

Flight Service

Inflight Entertainment

Permitted Pueden usarse dentro del avión

Permitted

Wifi

Always Permitted

Never Permitted

Smart Phones

Pacemakers

Two-Way Radios

Tablets or E-readers

Hearing Aids

Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices

Small portable electronic devices (PEDs) such as tablets, e-readers, and smartphones weighing less than Wifi Entertainment 2 poundsInflight may be used in AIRPLANE Inflight Entertainment mode at all times on domestic flights, unless a Crew Member indicates otherwise. A small PED may be held in hand, attached to a person, or placed Wifi in clothing or a seatback pocket.

Devices andWifiaccessories may not block Movies access to the aisle. Large PEDs such as laptops weighing 2 pounds or more must be stowed under the seat or in an overhead bin for taxi, takeoff, and Movies landing. It is recommended that laptops be placed in a case when stowed Messaging Movies under the seat. On international flights, all PEDs must be turned off during taxi, takeoff, and landing at airports outside the U.S. and its territories.

Please use Messaging headphones for all audio and video.

Siempre puedes usar dispositivos elecInflight Entertainment trónicos portátiles y pequeños (PEDs) Messaging TV tales como tabletas, lectores electrónicos y teléfonos inteligentes que pesen menos de 2 libras TV en modo AVIÓN en los vuelos domésticos, excepto si un

Movies

Messaging

Laptop Computers

TV

Wifi

Inflight Entertainment

TV

NFL Redzone

Smart Phones

Movies

Audio Players Reproductores Two-Way Radios de audio

Pacemakers

Tablets or Smartphones Tablets orPacemakers E-readers E-readers (in (in AIRPLANE AIRPLANE mode) mode) Tabletas o lectoTeléfonos Tablets or E-readers Hearing Aids res electrónicos inteligentes (en modo AVIÓN) (en modo AVIÓN) Flight Service

Tablets or E-readers

Satellite Radio Radio por satélite

Hearing Aids Radios Two-Way

Smart Phones

Electronic Cigarettes and

DVD/CD Players Reproductores de DVD/CD

Smoking Devices Video Camcorders Videocámaras

Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices

Digital Cameras Cámaras Electronic Cigarettes and digitales Smoking Devices

Hearing Aids Laptop Computers

Bluetooth Devices Remote-Controlled Toys Dispositivos Bluetooth

GPS Receivers GPS

Laptop Computers Laptop Computers Computadoras Permitted Flight Service portátiles Laptop Computers

Remote-Controlled Toys

Always Permitted

NFL Redzone

Flight Service

Smart Phones Always Permitted

Hand-Held Never Permitted Electronic Remote-Controlled Toys Games Juegos electrónicos Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers portátiles

Pacemakers

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

Two-Way Radios

Always Permitted Pueden usarse en todo momento dentro del avión Permitted Inflight Entertainment

Wifi

Never Permitted Flight Service

NFL Redzone

Never Permitted Electronic nerve stimulators and other implanted medical devices are also permitted. Dispositivos Inflight Entertainment de estimulación electrónica de los nerWifi Permitted viosMessaging y otros aparatos médicos implan-Tablets or E-readers Pacemakers Smart Phones Pacemakers Pacemakers Two-Way Radios tados también son permitidos.

Marcapasos

Permitted

Always Permitted

Smart Phones

por la pista, durante el despegue y el aterrizaje. Se recomienda que las computadoras portátiles se guarden Always Permitted Permitted en un estuche debajo del Never asiento.

En los vuelos internacionales, todos los PEDs deben permanecer apagados mientras el avión avanza por la pista, durante el despegue y el aterrizaje en Never Permitted aeropuertos fuera de los EE. UU. y sus territorios.

Por favor usa auriculares Pacemakers Two-Way Radios Never Permitted para cualquier sonido o video.

Miembro de la Tripulación indica lo contrario. Puedes tener un PED pequeño en la mano, llevarlo encima, en la Permitted Service Flight ropa o en un bolsillo en el respaldo Flight Service del asiento. Los dispositivos y accesorios no pueden bloquear el acceso al pasillo. Los PEDs grandes como computadoras portátiles que pesen 2 libras Permitted Always Permitted o más deben de ser guardados debajo del asiento o en los compartimentos Smart Phones Permitted Always Permitted superiores mientras el avión avanza

Remote-Controlled Toys

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

NFL Redzone

Flight Service

Movies

Inflight Entertainment

Hearing Aids

Wifi

t Laptop Computers

Flight Service

Electronic Cigarettes and

Laptop Computers

Movies

Smart Phones

Permitted

Always Permitted

NoiseCanceling Headphones Auriculares que aislan el ruido

Never Permitted

Sometimes Permitted Pueden usarse en ocasiones dentro del avión

NFL Redzone

TV

Never Permitted

Electronic Cigarettes and Electronic Smoking Devices Watches Relojes electrónicos

Permitted

Smart Phones

Smoking Devices Laptop Computers TV Tablets or E-readers Hearing Aids We understand you may want to document your travel on Southwest Airlines. Want to photograph and/or Permitted Always Permitted record Southwest Airlines Customers or Employees?

Movies Let them knowFlight first!

The use of cameras and mobile Tablets or E-readers Messaging Service devices is permitted onboard to capture personal Remote-Controlled Toys events but can never interfere with the safety of a flight and should always respect others’ privacy.

Messaging

Electric Shavers Rasuradoras eléctricas Flight Service

Hearing AidsRadios Hearing Aids Two-Way Auxiliares auditivos

Flight Service

Wifi

Movies

Tablets or E-readers

Always Permitted

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

Pacemakers

Messaging

Pacemakers

Two-Way Radios

Remote-Controlled Toys Electronic and Entendemos queCigarettes es posible que desees documentar Smoking Devices tu viaje en Southwest Airlines. ¿Quieres fotografiar Never Permitted y / o grabar Clientes o Empleados de Southwest Smart Phones Pacemakers Airlines? ¡Hazles saber primero!

El uso de cámaras y Two-Way Radios Hearing Aids Electronic Cigarettes and Devices para capturar dispositivos móviles se permiteSmoking a bordo eventos personales, pero nunca debe interferir con la seguridad de un vuelo y siempre debe respetar la Toys Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers privacidadRemote-Controlled de los demás.

Two-Way Radios

Tablets or E-readers

Remote-Controlled Toys

Hearing Aids

Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

Remote-Controlled Toys

Never Permitted Nunca pueden usarse dentro del avión Always TV Permitted

Never Laptop Permitted Computers

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

Never Permitted

Always Permitted

Devices capable of transmitting data, unless otherwise noted, are never permitted. Nunca Tablets son orpermitidos los Messaging E-readers NFL Redzone dispositivos con capacidad para transTV NFL Redzone Smart Phones Pacemakers mitir datos, excepto que se especifique Pacemakers Two-Way Radios lo contrario.

TV

Hearing Aids

Laptop Computers

Tablets or Electronic E-readers Cigarettes and Smoking Devices

Hearing Aids

Electronic Cigarettes and Radio Receivers Television or AM/FM Smoking Devices

Hearing Aids

Two-Way Radios

Two-Way Radios (Walkie-Talkies) or Scanners Radios emisores/receptores (walkie-talkies)

NFL Redzone Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices

Laptop Computers

Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices Cigarrillos electrónicos y Remote-Controlled Toys dispositivos para fumar

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers Televisión o radios de AM/ FM

RemoteControlled Toys Juguetes de control remoto

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

CREW INTERFERENCE Federal law prohibits any Passenger from assaulting, threatening, or intimidating a Crew Member or interfering with a Crew Member’s duties. La ley federal prohíbe que los pasajeros ataquen, amenacen o intimiden a los Miembros de la Tripulación o que interfieran con los deberes de un Miembro de la Tripulación.

DISABILITY ASSISTANCE Southwest Airlines offers assistance to Customers with disabilities upon request. Southwest Airlines siempre ofrece asistencia para sus Clientes con discapacidades que así lo soliciten.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES Cellphones and pagers may be used at the gate and after landing.

Los teléfonos y localizadores pueden ser usados en la puerta y después de aterrizar.

CARRYON BAGGAGE Customers are limited to one (1) bag per person, plus one (1) additional personal item. El límite es de una (1) maleta por persona y un (1) artículo personal.

LOST AN ITEM ONBOARD A FLIGHT? Visit the Customer Service page on Southwest.com to report a lost item.

Visita la página de Servicio al Cliente en Southwest.com para reportar un objeto perdido.

PETS All pets must stay inside their carriers and under the seat for the duration of the flight. Todas las mascotas deben permanecer dentro de sus jaulas y debajo del asiento durante todo el vuelo.

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Customers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages not purchased onboard. Alcoholic beverages will not be served to anyone under the age of 21. We reserve the right to refuse the sale of alcoholic beverages to anyone. Se prohíbe que los Clientes consuman bebidas alcohólicas si no fueron compradas a bordo. No serviremos bebidas alcohólicas a las personas menores de 21 años de edad. Nos reservamos el derecho de negar la venta de bebidas alcohólicas a cualquier persona.

PERSONAL DEVICES Unapproved personal devices (e.g., Knee Defender, infant slings) may not be attached to any part of the aircraft. Dispositivos personales no aprobados (coo por ejemplo “defensores de rodillas” o mantas portabebés) no pueden sujetarse a ninguna parte de la aeronave.

SEPTEMBER 2016 SOUTHWEST

103

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers

NFL Redzone Remote-Controlled Toys

Laptop Computers

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Remote-Controlled Toys

8/2/16 6:31 PM

Heart of the Community FLIPPED SCRIPT

A Grand Revival

Steeped in history, St. Louis’ Strauss Park gets a new look.

Across from the Fox Theatre in St. Louis is a quaint urban park named for 1970s redevelopment pioneer Leon Strauss. Despite its location in the heart of Grand Center, the city’s arts and cultural district, Strauss Park was a quiet and easily overlooked public space for years. But thanks to a Southwest Airlines Heart of the Community grant, the park has become a bustling center of community activity.

Home to a thriving theater district in the early 20th century, Grand Center fell into eventual disrepair after World War II. In 1981, Strauss and several business partners formed Fox Associates in order to purchase, renovate, and reopen the Fabulous Fox Theatre to the public. Thanks to Strauss and his team, the area now houses more than 40 world-class arts and cultural organizations that have brought new life both to the neighborhood and the city.

The Heart of the Community grant has helped us expand on this work and create a place where people can connect with the vibrant arts scene in

Grand Center. We started by bringing together business owners, representatives of area organizations, and residents to talk about what the park could be. Based on their ideas, we’ve designed a space where new entry paths and landscaping invite in visitors and locals, while colorful, comfortable seating encourages them to linger. Our music and dance performers now have an extended stage area that also serves as a place to sit and relax.

Since the rededication of Strauss Park in June, it has been the perfect venue for music festivals, jam sessions, picnics, and simply enjoying the outdoors.

We like to think that Leon Strauss would be proud of what’s happening in the park that bears his name— and that he’d see every connection, collaboration, and celebration taking place as another step in fulfilling his vision for St. Louis.

—Michelle Stevens, Vice President for Grand Center Inc. In 2014, Southwest launched the Heart of the Community program, which awards grants to create public spaces in the hearts of communities served by the airline. To date, the program has supported 18 innovative and transformative projects. To learn more, visit pps. org/Heart-of-the-Community.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIANE ANDERSON

New activities and landscaping at Strauss Park have prompted an influx of excited visitors.

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International Travel & Beverages

Customs & Immigration 1

This Space For Offical Use Only

2. Free of duty imports: passengers entering the country by sea or by air may import goods of duty, additional to their personal baggage, as long as they prove their value with an invoice or receipt and such amount does not exceed 300 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency or 75 US dollars when the entry is by land.

Alcoholic beverages, shredded tobacco or automobile fuel cannot be imported as part of the duty free exemption.

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO. 1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110,148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term “family” is defined as “members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption.”

1 Family Name

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Middle Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination

(b) City

During the vacation periods of Holy week, summer and winter, Mexican Nationals entering the country by land may import, under duty exemption, items of up to 300 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency provided that such people do not live along the border strip or border region. The starting and ending dates of such periods can be consulted directly with customs personnel or at www. aduanas.gob.mx.

6 Passport number 7 Country of Residence

trip prior to U.S. arrival

11 I am (We are) bringing

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects: (b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products: (c) disease agents, cell cultures, snails: (d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture: 12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock:

Yes

No

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

No No No No No

Yes

No

Yes

No

(such as touching or handling)

13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments

over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse)

14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise: (articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise

I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else, but not items mailed to the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: $ VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is: $

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

Signature

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

Please read the instructions prior to filling this form: Every passenger or head of household must provide the following information.

1 Last name(s) Nationality

Mexican laws establish among others the following penalties and sanctions related to the importation of goods into the country: • Omission to declare whether coming in or out of the Mexico´s customs amounts of cash, in domestic or foreign checks, payment orders or any other documents receivable in an aggregate amount exceeding the equivalent of 10,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency, which action will be punishable with a fine of 20 to 40% of the exceeding amount and the corresponding criminal penalties will be applied.

• Introduction into or extraction of goods from Mexico, using deceitful methods to hide items, when their imports or exports is prohibited, restricted or because foreign trade duties must be paid, will be punishable with fines ranging, to 70 or 100%, of the commercial value of merchandise.

• Omission of the total or partial payment of foreign trade duties. When failure consist of only a duty omission and the goods do not exceed 3,000 US dollars or its equivalent In domestic or foreign currency, the penalty will consist of up to 116% of the commercial value of the items. Once the duties have been paid, the Customs Authority will make the items available to the passenger.

• If the corresponding documentation required by the Customs Law prove that the merchandise was properly submitted for proper customs procedures in order to enter the country, is not exhibited, a precautionary seizure of the non declared goods as well as the corresponding vehicle, in case the passengers entered the country by land, will proceed.

• For non declared items which do not comply with regulations and restrictions other than duties, abandonment can be declared once the corresponding fine is paid.

Issue on 2013. Please look up for changes in this information when you are visiting us again at customs desk or at www.aduanas.gob.mx Date (month/day/year)

Welcome to Mexico

Name(s)

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.



for passengers coming from abroad

Passengers may import items to their personal baggage without requiring the services of a customs agent by paying a global rate of 16%, provided that the total amount, excluding the duty free exemption, does not exceed 3,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency as long as an invoice, proof of payment or any other document that proves the commercial value of the items is provided.

INFRACTIONS AND SANCTIONS

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name 10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

sat.gob.mx

aduanas.gob.mx

U.S. Customs Declaration Form*

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (or one Passenger per family with the same address) bound for the U.S. How to complete this form: • Complete before arrival in the U.S. • Write in English, in capital letters.

• Be sure to include the street name and number, city, and state of your address in the U.S. • If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country.

• Lines 5 and 6 may be left blank if not using a passport.

• On Line 9, enter WN for Southwest, followed by your specific flight number.

• Please read both sides of the declaration.

• Sign at the “X.”

Mexican Customs Declaration Form

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (or one Passenger per family with the same address) on flights bound for Mexico.

How to complete this form: • Complete sections 1–6.

• Once completed, sign and date the form.

Liquor $5

3

Customs Declaration

PAYMENT OF DUTIES

• Duties can be paid using the form “Pago de contribuciones al comercio exterior” (Foreign trade tax payment).

• The total value of computer equipment, added to the rest of the items above cannot exceed 4,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency.

• Items subject to compliance, regulations other than payment of duties (permits, certificates, and notifications) cannot be imported.

• In order to determine the tax basis, the duty free exemptions mentioned in number 2 could be deducted from the value of the items.

(c) State

5 Passport issued by (country)

8 Countries visited on this

2

Cheers!

Date of birth

Day

Month

Year

Passport number

2

VISITORS T Number of days you will stay in Mexico RESIDENTS OF MEXICO Number of days you stayed abroad

3

Number of family members traveling with you Number of luggage pieces (bags and packages) you bring with you Missing luggage or luggage to be imported by cargo (pieces) (See Notification 1 of this form)

4 MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION Mark with an X the means of transportation Maritime Vessel No.

Ground Transport No.

Air Flight No.

5 Carrying money in cash, receivables or a combination of both is legal; however, not declaring the total amount when more than the equivalent of 10,000 US dollars is carried may be subject to administrative or criminal penalties.

Are you carrying amounts in cash, documents receivable (checks, promissory notes, payment orders, etc.) or a combination of them, the combined total of which exceeds 10,000 US dollars or their equivalent in national or foreign currency?

No If you have answered Yes, please declare the total amount in US dollars

Yes

• • • •

Dewar’s® Scotch Jack Daniel’s® Wild Turkey® Tanqueray® Gin

Beer $5 • Bud Light® • Miller Lite® • Dos Equis® Special Lager • Leinenkugel’s® Oktoberfest • Fat Tire®

• • • •

Bacardi® Rum Baileys® Irish Cream Finlandia® Vodka Sauza® Gold Tequila

Wine $5 • Hacienda Chardonnay • Carmenet Cabernet Sauvignon

$

If you answer Yes, you must also fill out the “Declaración de internación o extracción de cantidades en efectivo y/o documento por cobrar” (Customs Declaration for the import/export of cash, receivables or equivalent documents), which you can request from the customs personnel in charge at the entry ports to Mexico or download it from the Customs Internet Site: www.aduanas.gob.mx

Mexican Immigration Form

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (including children) who are not citizens of Mexico, on flights bound for Mexico.

How to complete this form: • Complete sections 1–14 on the top portion of the form and sections 1–10 on the bottom portion of the form.

• Once completed, sign and date the top portion of the form.

• Sections on the form titled “USO OFICIAL” are for use by Mexican Immigration officials and should not be filled out by Passengers.

What to do with this form: • The form will be separated as Passengers proceed through Mexican Customs.

• Make sure to retain the bottom portion of the form, which serves as your visa while in Mexico. It must be surrendered at time of checkin for your return flight. Passengers unable to present this form at time of departure will be fined

by Mexican Immigration. * Go to cbp.gov to download, fill out, and print this form before your next international flight.

Complimentary Beverages • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Coca-Cola® Coke Zero™ Diet Coke® Sprite® Sprite Zero™ Dr Pepper® Diet Dr Pepper® Seagram’s® Ginger Ale Seagram’s® Tonic Water Seagram’s® Seltzer Water Mr & Mrs T® Bloody Mary Mix Mr & Mrs T® Margarita Mix Tomato Juice

• Minute Maid® Cranberry Apple Cocktail • Minute Maid® Orange Juice • Minute Maid® Apple Juice • Community® coffee • Community® decaf instant coffee • Tea • Hot Chocolate • Noncarbonated Purified Drinking Water * Creamer available

Valid Southwest Airlines Rapid Rewards® drink coupons, as shown here, are printed with expiration dates and the Member’s (or issuing group’s) name. Business Select® drink coupons are valid for same-day use only. Valid Rapid Rewards and Business Select drink coupons will be accepted onboard for beer, wine, and liquor.

Recycling

We’re happy to take care of any recyclable items, including plastic bottles, coffee cups, newspapers, and food containers.

SEPTEMBER 2016 SOUTHWEST

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Inflight Entertainment Portal

Getting Connected: iOS To connect to our entertainment portal using your iOS device*, follow the instructions below. For more information about inflight entertainment options, see the menu located in the seatback pocket.

Connect to Southwest WiFi

1. Tap the Settings icon.

2. Tap the WiFi icon.

3. Tap the On/Off button and 4. Tap SouthwestWiFi in turn WiFi On. the list of WiFi networks and confirm connection.

Launch the entertainment portal

The entertainment portal is your direct source for our inflight entertainment options.

5. Tap the Safari icon.

6. Our entertainment portal 7. Select your entertainment should load automatically. If option and enjoy. not, click the address bar and type in southwestwifi.com.

More Information: • Content and services are offered on WiFi-enabled aircraft only. We cannot guarantee that connecting flights will be WiFi-enabled.

• Service on flights to/from destinations outside the contiguous U.S. may not currently be available for the entire flight.

• Movies and select TV content require download of the free AirTime Player app.

• Pricing information can be found on the Inflight Entertainment Portal.

• In order to provide a top-notch WiFi experience, we prohibit access to certain high-bandwidth applications and websites, including Netflix, HBO Go, and VoIP. We also prohibit access to certain obscene or offensive content.

*Instructions shown on an iPhone® 6. Your iOS device may vary slightly.

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Getting Connected: Android

™

To connect to our entertainment portal using your Android device**, follow the instructions below. For more information about inflight entertainment options, see the menu located in the seatback pocket.

Connect to Southwest WiFi

1. Tap the Settings icon.

2. Tap the WiFi icon.

3. Tap the On/Off button and 4. Tap SouthwestWiFi in turn WiFi On. the list of WiFi networks and confirm connection.

Launch the entertainment portal

The entertainment portal is your direct source for our inflight entertainment options.

5. Tap the Internet icon.

6. Our entertainment portal 7. Select your entertainment should load automatically. If option and enjoy. not, click the address bar and type in southwestwifi.com.

**Instructions shown on Samsung Galaxy SÂŽ 6. Your Android device may vary slightly.

SEPTEMBER 2016 SOUTHWEST

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Inflight Entertainment Portal

Getting Connected: Laptops To connect to our entertainment portal using your Mac or PC laptop*, follow the instructions below. For more information about inflight entertainment options, see the menu located in the seatback pocket.

Connect to Southwest WiFi MAC

PC

1. Click the WiFi icon.

MAC

PC

2. Select SouthwestWiFi from the list of WiFi networks by clicking on it and confirm connection.

Launch the entertainment portal

The entertainment portal is your direct source for our inflight entertainment options.

MAC

PC

3. Open your preferred Web browser.

MAC & PC

MAC & PC

4. Our entertainment portal should load automatically. If not, click the address bar and type in southwestwifi.com.

More Information: • Content and services are offered on WiFi-enabled aircraft

only. We cannot guarantee that connecting flights will be WiFi-enabled.

• Service on flights to/from destinations outside the contiguous U.S. may not currently be available for the entire flight.

• Pricing information can be found on the Inflight Entertainment Portal.

• In order to provide a top-notch WiFi experience, we prohibit access to certain high-bandwidth applications and websites, including Netflix, HBO Go, and VoIP. We also prohibit access to certain obscene or offensive content.

5. Select your entertainment option and enjoy.

*The appearance of content on your laptop may vary slightly.

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Turn check-in time into tee time.

With EarlyBird, we’ll take care of check-in for you.

All EarlyBird Check-InÂŽ purchases are nonrefundable. Purchasers are automatically checked in 36 hours in advance and can obtain their boarding position within 24 hours. Customer must retrieve boarding pass and be present in the gate area ten minutes prior to departure or reservations may be cancelled. Learn more at Southwest.com/earlybird.

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Rapid Rewards

Rapid Rewards.®

The name says it all.

What makes Rapid Rewards so great? With unlimited reward seats and no blackout dates, you can use your points to fly any day of the year, and if a seat’s available, it’s yours. Plus, your points won’t expire.* When you reach tier status, you’ll enjoy the same great benefits of Rapid Rewards, along with a whole lot more!

A-List tier benefits

A-List Gary Kelly 378076624

A-List Preferred Gary Kelly 378076624

Companion Pass Gary Kelly 378076624

• Priority boarding • Fly By® priority check-in and security lane access** • 25% point-earning bonus

A-List Preferred tier benefits All the benefits of A-List, plus: • 100% point-earning bonus • Free Inflight WiFi (available only on WiFi-enabled aircraft)

Companion Pass Earn Companion Pass and you can choose one person to fly free*** with you for an entire year! ***Does not include taxes and fees from $5.60 one-way.

Enroll now

Earn even faster with the Rapid Rewards Credit Card.

Premier Card Exclusive Benefits: • Earn 2 points per $1 spent on Southwest Airlines® and Rapid Rewards® Hotel and Car Rental Partner purchases.

• Earn 1 point per $1 spent on all other purchases.

• Earn bonus points after your Cardmember Anniversary.

• Redeem points for international flights, cruises, hotel stays, rental cars, gift cards, and access to exclusive events.

Visit Southwest.com/inflight to learn more.

Southwest Airlines Rapid Rewards Visa Credit Cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Offer subject to change. See Southwest.com/inflight for pricing and rewards details. All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms.

It’s free and easy to join Rapid Rewards.

Sign up now at Southwest.com/enroll.

*Points don’t expire as long as you have flight or Partner earning activity every 24 months. **For a complete list of available Fly By locations, visit Southwest.com/flyby. All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms. ©2016 Southwest Airlines Co.

110 SOUTHWEST SEPTEMBER 2016

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Earn faster with our Partners.

From dining to driving, making purchases with our Partners gives you even more ways to earn points doing things you normally do. How easy is that?

Hotels Paint the town red, then turn in at your favorite hotel. Book on Southwest.com® with Rapid Rewards® Partners and receive up to 750 points per qualifying stay.^ Visit Southwest.com/hotels to book now.

Earn from 1,000 to 10,000 points per night for every hotel stay booked through Rocketmiles.

Visit rocketmiles.com/southwest to book now.

Rental Cars

Shop & Dine

Speed up the earning with your next car rental.

Earn 600 points per qualifying rental.^

From haute couture to haute cuisine, you can earn Rapid Rewards Points with every dollar you spend.

Earn 3 points per $1 spent. Join Rapid Rewards Dining for free today at rapidrewardsdining.com.

Rapid Rewards Members can earn 1,000 points per order of $29.99 or more.

Visit 1800flowers.com/rapidrewards.

Visit Southwest.com/car-rentals to book now.

Rapid Rewa Re rds Shopping®

Earn Rapid Rewards Points for shopping with many of your favorite online retailers!

Visit rrshopping.southwest.com to learn more.

To view a full list of Partners, visit Southwest.com/partners.

Earn up to 22 points per $1 spent on tickets to your favorite sports, concert, and theater events.

Visit scorebig.com/southwest to get started.

To learn how to earn more points with our current promotions, visit Southwest.com/promotions.

Earn 2,000 Rapid Rewards bonus points when you join the 4 Seasons wine club – plus 3 complimentary bottles.

Learn more at laithwaiteswine.com/southwest.

Make your points go further.

Close to a reward flight but need a few more points? You can buy points for yourself, give them as a gift, or transfer points from your Rapid Rewards account to another Member—all from one location.

Visit Southwest.com/pointscenter to get started.

^Potential to earn additional points depending on applicable promotion. All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms. ©2016 Southwest Airlines Co.

SEPTEMBER 2016 SOUTHWEST

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Terminal Maps

International Connections

For departure times and gate numbers, check airport monitors or ask a Gate Agent.

Atlanta (ATL)

Baltimore (BWI)

Chicago (MDW)

Denver (DEN)

Houston (HOU)

Los Angeles (LAX)

Orlando (MCO)

Domestic North Terminal and International Terminal

Main Terminal, between Concourses A and C

Main Terminal

Main Terminal

Main Terminal

Terminal 2 (International) and Terminal 1 (Domestic)

Terminal A

DOMESTIC DEPARTURES

Concourse C

Concourses A, B, and C

Concourses A and B

Concourse C

Central Concourse and West Concourse

Terminal 1

Airside 2

INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURES

Concourse C

Concourses A, B, and C

Concourses A and B

Concourse C

Central Concourse and West Concourse

Terminal 2

Airside 2

TICKET COUNTERS

INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS

RECHECK LOCATION

From Nassau and Oranjestad: Concourse C From other destinations: Concourse F

Concourse F

From Cancún, Montego Bay, Punta Cana, and San José: Concourse E

From Montego Bay: Airside 1 or 4 Concourse A

Concourse A

West Concourse

Terminal 2

Concourse A, lower level

Main Terminal

Main Terminal, lower level

Lower level outside of Customs

From other destinations: Concourse A, B, or C For arrivals from Cancún, Montego Bay, Punta Cana, and San José: Concourse E

From other destinations: Airside 2

For arrivals from Montego Bay: Airsides 1 and 4

Connecting to an International Flight • Go directly to the Southwest departure gate.

• Checked bags will be transferred automatically.

• You should not have to leave the secure part of the airport.

Connecting from an International Flight • Depending on point of departure, Customers may have to clear U.S. Immigration before collecting checked baggage from the baggage carousel.

• You will then proceed through customs to clear checked and carryon baggage.

• Customers traveling from some countries go through the customs process before returning to the United States.

• If you have checked baggage, proceed to the Southwest recheck desk or ticket counter to check your bags for the final portion of your trip.

• Customers traveling internationally into the United States with a connecting flight may carry liquids in carryon baggage, provided they were purchased in duty-free shops and placed in secure, tamper-evident bags.

• Proceed to your departure gate. If you do not have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, you must obtain one at the ticket counter or at kiosks near the Southwest recheck desk before proceeding to your gate.

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Hartsfield–Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL)

International Terminal

Legend Southwest Gates and Counters Security Baggage Claim Ticket Counter Concourse designation

Lower Level

Domestic North Terminal

MARTA Station

Baltimore-Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport (BWI)

Orlando International Airport (MCO)

Lower Level

Level 2

Terminal A Level 3

Main Terminal

Terminal B

International Arrivals International Arrivals

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)

William P. Hobby Airport (HOU)

International Arrivals Upper Level

Lower Level Upper Level

Upper Level Upper Level

Lower Level

West Concourse

Lower Level

Upper Level Lower Level

Main Terminal Central Concourse

Denver International Airport (DEN)

Midway International Airport (MDW) Lower Level

Main Terminal

Level 5

Level 5 Level 6

Level 6

Main Terminal

Lower Level

Level 5

SEPTEMBER 2016 SOUTHWEST

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Route Map

Where We Fly PACIFIC TIME

MOUNTAIN TIME

SEATTLE/TACOMA

CENTRAL TIME

SPOKANE

PORTLAND

BOISE

MINNEAPOLIS/ ST. PAUL

GRAND RAPIDS MILWAUKEE

RENO/TAHOE

DES MOINES

SALT LAKE CITY

SACRAMENTO OAKLAND SAN FRANCISCO (SFO) SAN JOSE

CHICAGO (MIDWAY)

OMAHA INDIANAPOLIS DAYTON

DENVER KANSAS CITY

ST. LOUIS

LOUISVILLE

LAS VEGAS WICHITA BURBANK LOS ANGELES (LAX) LONG BEACH

ONTARIO

ALBUQUERQUE

ORANGE COUNTY

NASHVILLE TULSA

AMARILLO

SAN DIEGO

OKLAHOMA CITY PHOENIX

LITTLE ROCK

LUBBOCK

TUCSON

MEMPHIS

BIRMINGHAM DALLAS (LOVE FIELD)

EL PASO

MIDLAND/ODESSA

AUSTIN HOUSTON (HOBBY) SAN ANTONIO

PENSACOLA

NEW ORLEANS

CORPUS CHRISTI

HARLINGEN/SOUTH PADRE ISLAND

CABO SAN LUCAS/LOS CABOS

CANCÚ CANC ÚN PUERTO VALLARTA

You’re on Your Way

You can get to a number of other cities via Southwest destinations. Travel to Santa Fe via Albuquerque, Palm Springs via Ontario, Galveston via Houston, and more.

While we fly nationwide, service between some cities/ airports is not offered. Be sure to check our flight schedule.

MEXICO CITY BELIZE CITY

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travel with backup

EASTERN TIME ATLANTIC TIME PORTLAND MANCHESTER ROCHESTER GRAND RAPIDS

FLINT DETROIT

ALBANY

BUFFALO/ NIAGARA FALLS

LONG ISLAND/ISLIP NEW YORK (LAGUARDIA) NEW YORK (NEWARK)

CLEVELAND AKRON/ CANTON

BOSTON LOGAN PROVIDENCE HARTFORD/SPRINGFIELD

PHILADELPHIA

PITTSBURGH

BALTIMORE/WASHINGTON (BWI) WASHINGTON, D.C. (DULLES) WASHINGTON, D.C. (REAGAN NATIONAL)

COLUMBUS DAYTON

RICHMOND NORFOLK/VIRGINIA BEACH

RALEIGH/DURHAM CHARLOTTE GREENVILLE-SPARTANBURG

ATLANTA

PANAMA CITY BEACH

CHARLESTON

JACKSONVILLE ORLANDO

Southwest proudly serves more than 90 destinations. Book your next trip on Southwest.com.

TAMPA FT. MYERS/NAPLES

WEST PALM BEACH FT. LAUDERDALE (MIAMI AREA) NASSAU

SAN JUAN PUNTA CANA

MONTEGO BAY

BELIZE CITY

ARUBA

SHOP.AMERICANTOURISTER.COM

LIBERIA

SAN JOSÉ

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One Question

Lionel Richie, what’s your fondest memory as a performer?

The closing ceremonies of the 1984 Summer Olympics, in Los Angeles. I performed “All Night Long,” and it was just an out-of-body experience. You had 100,000 people in the Coliseum, and a billion, billion-and-a-half people watching around the world. It was the performance that changed my career.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAMELA LITTKY/CPI SYNDICATION

Starting September 21 in Las Vegas, see Lionel Richie: All the Hits at The Axis at Planet Hollywood.

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