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A LETTER FROM THE FAMILY
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t a time when the world seems especially chaotic, spending time with loved ones is more important than ever. Regardless of what is going on in the news, home will always be a place to reconnect with what matters most. As a family run business, we’re proud to have created a store that feels like an extension of our home. Our family has grown to include a dedicated and knowledgeable staff who all share the passion that first inspired us to open almost 40 years ago. And we hope that passion comes across each time you step into NAGI Jewelers.
We are in the business of celebrating life’s most special moments and take joy in helping you find the perfect gift for every occasion, big or small. We hope this magazine will provide you with inspiration for your next celebration. Inside you’ll find a selection of our favorite new trends, profiles of a few of our most talented designers, and spotlights on other people, places and products we love. We look forward to showing you even more in person and welcoming you into our home away from home at 828 High Ridge Road. — Nagi, Liz and Jeff Osta
8 2 8 H I G H R I D G E R D S TA M F O R D , C T W W W. N AG I J E W E L E R S . C O M
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CONTENTS
ISSUE
14 NO.
TRENDS
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TURN BACK TIME
Retro-inspired watches —
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RAT PACK REVIVAL Gentlemanly accessories
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TRENDS
SPOTLIGHT
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LONG ON STYLE
Dramatic drop earrings
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HOOP DREAMS
Everyday staples with a twist
A SMARTER SMARTWATCH
Tag Heuer’s Connected Modular —
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ONE PERFECT THING Breitling’s Superocean Heritage II
EXPRESS YOURSELF
Pendants & charms with personality —
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THE BOLD & THE BEAUTIFUL The season’s best bracelets —
INTO THE BLUE
FEATURE 20
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Q&A
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DREAM WEAVER
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ON HIS OWN TIME
A guide to buying your son’s first watch
Mattioli’s diamond bands
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WITH THIS RING
David Yurman celebrates 35 years of cable
SPOTLIGHT ONE PERFECT THING
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Custom engagement rings
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LA DOLCE VITA
A look at the life and work of designer Marco Bicego
Jewels in shades of sea & sky
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ONCE ON THIS ISLAND
The story behind the world’s most fabulous pearls
With design star Lika Behar
SPOTLIGHT
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THE THRILL OF THE HUNT Nagi Osta’s passion for estate jewelry
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PERFECT GIFT
NAGI MAGAZINE PUBLISHED FOR NAGI Jewelers 828 High Ridge Road - Stamford CT 06905 - WWW. NAGIJEWELERS.COM - INFO@NAGIJEWELERS.COM - all inquiries (203) 964-0551 PUBLISHED BY Synersea + The Jewelry Journal - 18 East 41 st Street - New York, NY 10017 - www.thej-journal.com - adv@thej-journal.com - www.synersea.com - all inquiries (212) 847-1336 EDITOR IN CHIEF Edoardo Cela - MANAGING EDITOR Kareem Rasheed - ART DIRECTOR Paul Recalde - DESIGN CONCEPT Valeria Romeo - SPECIAL THANKS The Osta Family and their staff PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PLEASE CONTACT THE STORE FOR CURRENT PRICING AND AVAILABILITY. No person, organization or party can copy or re-produce the content on this magazine or any part of this publication without a written consent from the publisher. The content in the magazine is made available on the terms and condition that the publisher, editors, contributors and related parties: shall have no responsibility for any action or omission by any other contributor, consultant, editor or related party and disclaim any and all liability and responsibility to any person or party, be they a purchaser, reader, advertiser or consumer of this publication or not in regards to the consequences and outcomes of anything done or omitted being in reliance whether partly or solely on the contents of this publication and related website and products, are not responsible in any way for the actions or results taken any person, organization or any party on basis of reading information, or contributions in this publication, website or related product.
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TRENDS
LONG ON STYLE
In classic white diamonds or vivid colored gems, dramatic drop earrings are guaranteed to make a statement. Clockwise from top left: DOVES Diamonds and white gold; $5,780, JANE TAYLOR Yellow sapphires, turquoise, white and London blue topaz in yellow gold; $2, 510, SIMON G Diamonds and white gold; $3,740, NAGI Druzy quarts geodes, fire opals and diamonds in yellow gold; $4,705. 4
H OOP DREAMS
TRENDS
ARMENTA White Sapphire, Diamond, Oxidized Silver and Yellow Gold; $2,150
These riffs on an everyday staple are anything but basic.
MARCO BICEGO Yellow Gold; $1,410
DANA KELLIN Grey Diamonds, Sapphire and Yellow Gold; $1,575
HEARTS ON FIRE Diamonds and Yellow Gold; $2,500 5
TRENDS
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MARCO BICEGO Jaipur 18K yellow gold two stone stud earrings with topaz and amethyst; $845.00 MONICA RICH KOSANN Sterling silver tassel, ball, and toggle necklace with white sapphires; $695.00
XPRESS YOURSELF MIX AND MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE TO CREATE A FAVORITE PIECE.
KABANA Kalo mati 14k yellow gold blue evil eye diamond pendant with turquoise inlay; $1,930.00
NAGI Gregg ruth emerald & diamond round halo stud earrings 18K white gold; $2,150.00
NAGI Yellow gold keepsake bottle with dog paw and wing; $799
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ANNE SPORTUN Diamonds and yellow gold; $1,575
TRENDS
HEARTS ON FIRE Diamonds and white gold; $2,990
MONICA RICH KOSANN Sterling silver locket with rose-cut rock crystal; $520
ROBERTO COIN Yellow gold with diamonds; $620
QEELIN Black and white diamonds in white gold; $3,995
DOVES Rutilated quartz, mother of pearl and brown diamonds in rose gold; $4,770
1884 COLLECTION Ancient Roman coin with diamonds; $3,700
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TRENDS
THE BOLD & THE BEAUTIFUL
Clockwise from top left: ROBERTO COIN Yellow gold with diamonds, $4,750; DAVID YURMAN Sterling silver, $650; NAGI Yellow and white gold with diamonds, $8,960; MONICA RICH KOSANN Rock crystal and sterling silver, $535
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TRENDS
This season’s best bracelets are a study in contrasts: chunky chain links or delicate, refined silhouettes.
Clockwise from top left: HULCHI BELLUNI Diamonds and yellow gold, $2,780; ARMENTA Blackened-silver and yellow gold, $1,180; ROBERTO DEMEGLIO Ceramic with champagne diamonds and rose gold, $2,580; MIKIMOTO Akoya pearls and yellow gold, $750.
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TRENDS
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NTO THE BLUE
MARCO BICEGO Aquamarine and yellow gold necklace; $2,180
DANA KELLIN Tanzanite and yellow gold earrings; $1,190
NAGI Sapphire, diamond and white gold ring; $4,450
ANNE SPORTUN Blue lapis beaded wrap bracelet & necklace 34” B098G-LAPIS; $480.00
JANE TAYLOR London blue topaz and white gold cuff; $3,100
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FROM AQUAMARINES TO TANZANITES, GEMS IN SHADES OF SEA AND SKY CHANNEL SUMMER YEAR ROUND.
SPOTLIGHT
NE PERFECT THING MATTIOLI’S TAKE ON EVERYDAY DIAMONDS
Since 1860, Mattioli has been known for jewelry with a distinctly Italian sense of effortless chic. In Mattioli’s Torino workshops, even the most exceptional stones are imbued with a laid-back, dolce vita ease. The brand’s latest creation is a prime example — brilliant diamond rings that stretch around the finger like an elastic band. Called the xBand, the rings are equipped with a titanium spring that makes for incredibly comfortable wearing. The design’s clean lines belie the complex mechanism at work within the band, which allows the ring to adjust to any fluctuations in a woman’s finger size. The xBand expands, contracts, and moves with you. Available with six different sizes of round brilliant-cut diamonds, they’re the jewelry equivalent of your favorite pair of jeans: they work with everything.
MATTIOLI Diamond XBands; from $2,950
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SPOTLIGHT
Q&A
Yellow gold and diamond ear cuffs; $2,090
WITH DESIGN STAR LIKA BEHAR
Yellow gold, oxidized silver and diamond ring; $2,420
All of Lika Behar’s jewelry is produced at her studio in Istanbul, Turkey, a historic city at the nexus of East and West. She channels her hometown’s heritage into pieces that marry ancient techniques with a distinctly modern edge, combining lustrous 24-karat gold, patinated sterling silver and a medley of unique colored gems in jewels with an organic, handhewn charm. Get to know the woman behind this singular collection.
Oxidized silver, yellow gold and laboradite cuff; $2,090
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Yellow gold, milky aquamarine and diamond earrings; $2,970
SPOTLIGHT
Can you tell us about your background?
I grew up in Istanbul in a family of jewelers. I came to the United States for college and studied political science and economics, and I have an MBA in international finance. After a three year stint in banking and over 20 years in the fashion industry, I started to design jewelry at age 49. I think this was always my calling but I stumbled into it fairly late in life. What is your earliest memory of jewelry?
I remember I had a gold bangle with a tiny turquoise on it, given to me by my grandfather as a very little girl. I outgrew it of course and when I couldn’t take it off my dad had to saw it off my wrist. Of course it didn’t hurt me physically, but I was traumatized nonetheless. I remember crying for days; I must have been four or five. Was there a particular experience that made you want to start designing jewelry?
I always loved it but it was a dear childhood friend that insisted for months that I could do it professionally. I also had a fabulous industry mentor who encouraged me, Myriam Gumuchian of Gumuchian. What was the first piece you ever made?
A 24-karat gold snake ring. I wear it everyday as it reminds me of renewal, the shedding of my old skin and renewing it with a fresh skin — like me leaving the fashion industry and following my passion to start working on jewelry.
Yellow gold and diamond earrings; $2,690
A lot of your work references motifs from antiquity, what is it about those pieces and that period that inspires you?
I love the simplicity, the beauty and the purity of ancient Greek and Roman jewelry. You do a lot of work with 24-karat gold, what do you find so special about this particular material?
It is a soft, malleable form and has a beautiful golden glow that can only be achieved with pure gold. Plated just doesn’t work for me. 24-karat bends and takes the shape of your finger unlike anything else; it’s extremely comfortable and becomes a part of you. Do you design with a specific woman in mind?
She appreciates fine art, loves uniqueness and stands out. She is confident and accomplished. Where do you live most of the year?
I split my time between New York City, Istanbul and my weekend home in Connecticut. I frequently travel the country to make personal appearances at the fine stores that carry my work. What do you do for fun outside of work?
I love international travel, the theater, music. And I am an avid cook.
Yellow gold, oxidized silver and blue moonstone ring; $770
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TRENDS
TURN BACK TIME THE BEST NEW WATCHES LOOK TO THE PAST FOR INSPIRATION. THE RESULT ? WINNING RETRO STYLE.
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BAUME & MERCIER Clifton Automatic in stainless steel with alligator strap, $2,850
SHINOLA Runwell Chronograph in stainless steel with leather strap, $750
LONGINES Legend Diver in stainless steel with Kevlar strap, $2,300
VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY Infantry in stainless steel with leather strap, $395
TRENDS
RAT PACK REVIVAL GENTLEMANLY EXTRAS WITH TIMELESS SWAGGER
DEAKIN & FRANCIS Sterling silver and enamel cufflinks; $305
DAVID YURMAN Onyx, leather and sterling silver bracelet; $495
JAN LESLIE Onyx, carnelian and sterling silver cufflinks; $450
LONGINES Stainless steel watch with alligator strap; $2,350
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TAG HEUER FINDS A BALANCE BETWEEN TRADITION AND TECHNOLOGY
A SMARTER SMARTWATCH
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SPOTLIGHT
Since the release of the Apple Watch in 2015, the watch industry has been abuzz with debates over the advantages of smartwatches versus traditional mechanical timepieces. While both tell the time, the similarities stop there. The craftsmanship and meticulous work that goes into a mechanical watch is an art form unto itself but, for most consumers, that artistry can’t compete with a smartwatch that delivers emails and tracks calories burned. The recent surge in smartwatches from traditional Swiss watchmakers and tech companies alike begs the question: is there a place for watchmaking savoir-faire in the 21st century? Tag Heuer has found an answer in their new Connected Modular watch, the ideal marriage of horology and technology. Tag Heuer’s Connected was one of the first smartwatches to be launched by a storied Swiss brand. While the Connected borrowed the look of Tag Heuer’s iconic Carrera range, the watch’s inner-workings were entirely digitized. The latest generation of Connected watches introduce a new modular design that, in addition to allowing total customization, gives the wearer the choice to switch their smartwatch face for a mechanical movement as easily as one might change their strap. Think of it as Legos for your watch — Tag Heuer provides all the components, how you can combine them is entirely up to you. “This is a Swiss watch that not only connects you to the future, but to eternity thanks to its simple and smart modular design,” says Jean-Claude Biver, Tag Heuer’s CEO. “This watch is at the forefront of the latest technologies available in Silicon Valley and, at the same time, a genuine Swiss-made watch.”
THIS WATCH IS AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE LATEST TECHNOLOGIES AVAILABLE IN SILICON VALLEY AND, AT THE SAME TIME, A GENUINE SWISS-MADE WATCH.
The Connected smartwatch features an Intel processor and software developed with Google, including built in GPS, Android Pay capabilities, and numerous apps that do everything from play music to remind you of upcoming appointments. One can choose from 30 different dial options or even design one’s own, selecting the colors, numerals, etc. Beyond that, the new modular design allows one to customize the strap, buckle, lugs and case. The choices abound: 56 different cases from titanium to rose gold, 18 different straps from rubber to ceramic, and much, much more. What makes the Connected Modular especially unique is the ability to swap the smartwatch component for a classic Tag Heuer mechanical movement. The mechanical options even include a tourbillon, the pinnacle of watchmaking virtuosity. By purchasing this one additional module, your smartwatch can transform into a traditional wristwatch with just a couple clicks. It’s the epitome of modern luxury — all the heritage and craft of a Tag Heuer watch alongside the ease and function of the latest technology. Offering the best of both worlds, and near infinite options for customization, it’s one watch that truly has something for everybody.
Tag Heuer Connected Modular; from $2,200, prices vary for custom options
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SPOTLIGHT
ONE PERFECT THING
$6,040
BREITLING’S SUPERLATIVE DIVING WATCH
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reitling has a rich history of creating exemplary sports watches that are beloved by professional athletes and collectors alike. Their latest is a reimagining of their first professional diving watch, the Superocean, originally released in 1957. The new Superocean Heritage II commemorates the 60th anniversary with a sleek update to the iconic design — a steel bezel
filled with high-tech ceramic, a monochromatic dial, and a revival of the original watch’s distinctive hour and minute hands. The selfwinding chronograph movement has a power reserve of 70 hours and the sturdy steel case is water resistant up to 660 feet. Whether or not you foresee a deep-sea dive in your future, the Superocean Heritage II brings that spirit of adventure to the everyday. $6,040.
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FEATURE
LA DOLCE VITA
A LOOK AT THE LIFE AND WORK OF DESIGNER MARCO BICEGO BY KAREEM RASHED
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FEATURE
Italy has a long, storied heritage of exquisite jewelry, from ancient Roman intaglios to heavy-hitting houses like Bulgari and Buccellati and niche designers such as Attilio Codognato. The country’s deep reverence for craft and quality has bred generations of acclaimed jewelers and artisans. So it was all the more unusual when, in 2000, Marco Bicego debuted his first collection with a fresh, distinctive point-of-view and aesthetic unlike anything else being made in Italy. Bicego’s jewelry is crafted in the province of Vicenza, the historical epicenter
of Italy’s jewelry industry, using age-old techniques to produce pieces that are rooted in tradition but designed for the modern woman. His wholly original signatures— delicate coils of spun gold wire, radiant hand-etched finishes quickly gathered a cult following of discerning women with a taste for understated elegance. In the following years, Bicego has grown to become one of the most exciting voices in the international jewelry scene. We caught up with Marco to learn about his life in Italy and the world he has created.
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FEATURE
Yellow gold and diamond ring; $4,500
How did you come to launch your collection? Jewelry truly runs in my blood. My father, Guiseppe Bicego, founded a gold chain business in Vicenza that evolved into quite a successful company. I grew up spending every summer at my father’s atelier where I would watch the expert craftsmen at work and try my hand at making striking objects of my own. After many years apprenticing and working with my father, that’s when I decided to debut my own collection in 2000.
How is Italy and your Italian heritage reflected in your work? The inspiration behind the creation of my jewelry is rooted in my Venetian heritage. All of my collections are still handcrafted by goldsmiths in my atelier in Italy. This Italian tradition of handcraftsmanship and these techniques are passed down from older generations of Italian artisans; it is a knowledge and expertise that cannot be found elsewhere. That passion for craftsmanship breathes life into each of my designs.
What was the first piece you designed? The first collection I designed for the brand was Marrakech, which was recognized for its timeless elegance and contemporary flavor. The Marrakech collection is crafted using a coiling technique. It is made from a thick strand of gold which is then tightly wound with 18K gold “thread.” The resulting coil can be manipulated into various shapes and finishes. The coil today is now a very sentimental design for me and is an integral aesthetic of the brand.
How did you first start doing the hand-engraving that has become your signature? Having spent every summer at my father’s goldsmithing atelier in Vicenza, the gold capitol of the world, I learned the art of hand-engraving under master craftsmen. Our hand-engraving is done with a tool called a “bulino”, in which the craftsmen scratches hundreds of textured grooves on the surface, giving the finished piece an almost molten gold appearance. This finish is so special because it inevitably means each piece is oneof-a-kind and unique.
Yellow gold bracelet with diamond clasp; $6,030 22
Yellow gold earrings; $2,520
FEATURE
Can you tell us a bit about your home? I live a ten minute drive away from our factory in Trissino, Italy. Much like our factory, the design of my home is modern with clean lines and filled with contemporary art. Being that my family and I all share a passion for sports, when we built the house I made certain to include a tennis court and a soccer field for the kids and myself to enjoy on the weekends.
What are your favorite things to do in your hometown?
Yellow and white gold bracelet; $4,990
I am a big football [soccer] fan – I try to play with my family or attend as many matches as I can. When in Trissino, I love cooking at home with my family. My perfect weekend at home would be very simple: some tennis and soccer with my family and friends during the day leading into a big feast with delicious food and a bottle — or two! — of Franciacorta for the evening. I love to be surrounded by my family and friends; sport and food is always a great catalyst for the two. Venice is also in close proximity to Trissino, so when I am not working or spending time at home, I enjoy driving to Venice to visit the museums and restaurants. In the area where we live, there is so much culture all around us so we try and take it in as much as we can.
Is your family at all involved in the business?
“THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE CREATION OF MY JEWELRY IS ROOTED IN MY VENETIAN HERITAGE. ALL OF MY COLLECTIONS ARE STILL HAND-CRAFTED BY GOLDSMITHS IN MY ATELIER IN ITALY.”
My wife Valentina is very much involved in the business. She is not only my muse, but works in multiple areas of the brand as well. As for my three children, time will tell. They have so many passions of their own and my wife and I believe they should follow their own ambitions. I would love to see them follow in my footsteps as I did with my father, but I would be just as happy to see them follow their heart and pursue their own dreams and aspirations.
Yellow gold and diamond ring; $2,720 24
FEATURE
MARCO BICEGO VISITS NAGI MARCO BICEGO WAS AT NAGI’S FOR A WONDERFUL EVENING DEDICATED TO CRAFTSMANSHIP AND JEWELRY TO ENTERTAIN OUR CUSTOMERS AND GUESTS
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FEATURE
WITH THIS RING WHEN SHOPPING FOR AN ENGAGEMENT RING, CONSIDER GOING CUSTOM-MADE.
NAGI Oval Brilliant 2.00 carat engagement ring 18K white gold; $2,795.00
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roposing marriage is a daunting endeavor, finding the perfect engagement ring only complicates matters. This one band of diamonds and metal is meant to symbolize your love for the woman that you hope to spend the rest of your life with. And, in a practical sense, it also has to be something that she’ll want to wear every single day. More than any other piece of jewelry, an engagement ring is the one item most women have spent hours, if not years, dreaming about. Fulfilling that dream is a pretty tall order. Add to that the stress of staying within budget and keeping everything under wraps until you’re ready to pop the question and it’s enough to make the most steelnerved guy start sweating.
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HEARTS ON FIRE 1.25 carat round brilliant-cut diamond in white gold; $8,800
Thankfully, NAGI Jewelers has resources to help you navigate the road to your ideal engagement ring. In addition to a diverse selection of readymade rings, NAGI offers the unique ability to design a custom piece at no additional cost — an invaluable opportunity to create a one-of-a-kind ring that will dazzle her without breaking the bank. The process is streamlined and efficient, making what can be a harrowing experience as easy as possible.
FEATURE The process begins by sitting down with Nagi Osta or one of the experts on staff and getting a crash course in understanding diamonds: cut, color, clarity and carat weight. From there, you’ll get a primer on basic designs: halo, solitaire, diamonds on the side, etc. After discussing what your estimated budget is, you’ll be presented with various options for stones and metals. “I’ll ask about what he thinks she wants,” says Osta. “A smaller stone that is perfectly colorless and has fewer inclusions? Or a larger stone that maybe isn’t completely colorless? I try to make it as practical and transparent as possible. I’ll show him two stones to compare. I’m not going to try to convince someone that they need to get a flawless diamond because, in reality,
THE PROCESS BEGINS BY SITTING DOWN WITH NAGI HIMSELF, OR ONE OF THE EXPERTS ON STAFF, AND GETTING A CRASH COURSE IN UNDERSTANDING DIAMONDS: CUT, COLOR, CLARITY AND CARAT WEIGHT.
NAGI Point of Love ring in rose gold with 1 carat cushion-cut diamond and hidden ruby; $3,190
HEARTS ON FIRE 0.5 carat princess-cut diamond in platinum; price upon request.
who is actually going to be looking at it under a loupe [a jeweler’s microscope]?” All of the diamonds carried at NAGI Jewelers are natural and of exceptional quality, so there’s no chance of choosing a bad stone. As you survey your options, you’ll be educated on what to consider when choosing your diamond — how different cuts can affect the stone’s brilliance, how variations in the diamond’s composition alter the price. Once a diamond and design have been chosen, the NAGI team will create a digital rendering for you to approve via email. It will then be translated into a wax model for you to sign off on. After that, the metal will be cast and, finally, the stones will be set. While your future fiancée will undoubtedly have her own opinions on the ring’s design, in Osta’s experience halo rings, featuring a center stone surrounded by pavé diamonds, are the most popular. In addition to providing a beautiful frame for the main diamond, halos have the added benefit of creating an optical illusion to make smaller center stones appear larger. But more than a diamond’s size or cut, Osta advises that the most important thing is: “Listen to her. Ask her questions. You have one mouth and two ears for a reason.” Words of wisdom to follow long after she says yes.
NAGI 5ct D VVS carat ideal-cut diamond in platinum; $136,000
The prices for rings pictured in this story are not inclusive of the center stone.
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DREAM WEAVER A NEW BOOK CELEBRATES DAVID YURMAN’S SIGNATURE CABLE DESIGNS
FEATURE
Crossover cuff in sterling silver and yellow gold; $2,100
Wellesley Link earrings in sterling silver and diamonds; $1,250
C
oco Chanel had her little black jacket; Emilio Pucci had his psychedelic prints. For David Yurman, it has always been about cable. Yurman’s cable bracelet — you likely know the one, twisted cords of sterling silver or gold that effortlessly wrap around the wrist — is a modern icon and the piece that made him a household name. When it was created, in 1982, it instantly resonated with women across the country and eventually around the world. Cable’s seemingly simple design lends itself to infinite variations, and it’s a motif that continues to weave throughout Yurman’s collections to this day.
FOR DAVID YURMAN, IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT CABLE.
To mark the cable bracelet’s 35th anniversary, David and his wife and partner, Sybil, have released a coffee table tome celebrating cable as a symbol of their relationship and the brand they’ve created. As they write in the book’s foreword: “Just as cable requires at least two elements twisting together to create a harmonious tension, so does love and marriage and building a company. Cable is intertwined with us from the earliest days…this book shines a spotlight on cable’s importance as the very basis of our language, of our love of design, and our love of one another.”
Opposite: Hampton Cable necklace in sterling silver; $2,950
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Eternal Inspiration From the new book David Yurman: Cable — a collage of personal photos depicting David and Sybil Yurman alongside sketches of Yurman’s early designs.
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FEATURE
W
hen David and Sybil first met in the 1960’s, they were both working as artists — he as a sculptor, working primarily with metal, and she as a painter. Through David’s work as a sculptor, he became fluent in the language of metal and learned how to coax its form. When he began experimenting with jewelry, he approached it with a new, distinctly American point of view. Rather than following the prevailing trends set by big European houses at the time, he embraced clean, geometric lines to create jewelry that wasn’t reserved for galas and formal events. It was a novel concept: artfullydesigned fine jewelry that could be worn casually. Cable embodied this ethos and provided an aesthetic common ground for David and Sybil to collaborate. Cable is in many ways as primary as the circle or the square — it’s a motif that appears across disciplines, cultures, eras. Indeed, cable has been depicted by ancient civilizations from the Egyptians to the Chinese to the Pre-Columbians in South America.
Hampton Cable ring in yellow gold; $3,950
Helena bracelet in sterling silver, yellow gold and diamonds; $2,150
Wellesly Link ring in sterling silver and diamonds; $850
THE NEW PURE FORM COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS CABLE’S SCULPTURAL QUALITIES, CONTRASTED WITH DOMES OF SMOOTH, FLUID METAL.
It’s that universal, timeless appeal that has made the Yurman’s cable such a wild success. Since that first bracelet, the cable motif has been dotted with everything from citrines to rubies, been supersized and thinned down, and reworked into collection after collection of jewelry that is unmistakably Yurman. The new Pure Form collection highlights cable’s sculptural qualities, contrasted with domes of smooth, fluid metal. In Stax, cable gets layered and remixed with a variety of different textures: chains, faceted stones, polished and matte finishes. As part of the Wellesley Link collection, cable alternates with graphic oval links to form eye-catching chains. Even after 35 years, Yurman manages to find surprising, compelling ways to reimagine his signature design — with results that keep his many avid collectors lusting. Whether it’s the iconic bracelet that started it all or one of the more recent riffs on that classic, owning a piece of David Yurman cable is owning a piece of design history. As Sybil writes in the book: “It isn’t about one piece of jewelry. It’s about a lifestyle and ease, a casualness… playfulness, zaniness, and beauty.” Who couldn’t use a bit more of that in their life? David Yurman: Cable is published by Rizzoli and available in bookstores nationwide.
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FEATURE
ON HIS OWN TIME WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING YOUR SON HIS FIRST WATCH
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watch is undoubtedly one of the most personal possessions a man has in his life. You look at it countless times a day, you wear it day in, day out — it lives on your wrist and, in many ways, becomes a part of you. It’s that intimacy that makes watches such a special gift. They’re a thoughtful, significant way to commemorate all of life’s biggest moments: coming of age, graduation, marriage. And unlike so many other gifts, a watch is guaranteed to stand the test of time. Patek Phillipe has a slogan perfectly summarizing that sentiment: you never own a watch, you merely look after it for the next generation.
SHINOLA Runwell Sport chronograph in stainless steel with leather strap; $875
BREITLING Transocean Day-Date in stainless steel; $5,800
TISSOT T-Classics Tradition in stainless steel with leather strap; $300
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FEATURE
Whether new or vintage, opt for a style that will endure — remember that he may be passing it on to his own son someday.
Buying your son his first watch, then, is a particularly weighted purchase. How do you choose something that he’ll love, that feels representative of him, and that he’ll cherish for years to come? The easiest route may be to involve your son in the purchase; investigating the options and learning about timepieces can certainly be an opportunity to bond and perhaps even a chance to spark a new, shared passion with your son. By weighing his choices and developing his own opinions, your son may find the watch ultimately chosen all the more meaningful. Another thing to consider is your son’s personality and interests, where you see him going in life. Is he an athlete? Consider a chronograph that he can use to time his games. Does he love travel? Maybe go for a watch with a dual time function, so he’ll always have a reminder of what time it is back home. Does he have aspirations of becoming a doctor? Rather than a leather strap, go for a metal bracelet that will withstand the continuous hand-washing required in medicine. Or you can choose to go a more sentimental route: a vintage piece from the year he was born, or the same model as your own first watch. Looking to pre-owned and vintage pieces will often yield a number of unique and rare finds. Whether new or vintage, opt for a style that will endure — remember that he may be passing it on to his own son someday. Regardless of your budget, the perfect watch is out there. The search is part of the fun.
TAG HEUER Aquaracer in stainless steel; $2,250
PATEK PHILIPPE antique ref. 2562 in yellow gold with leather strap; $5,995
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ONCE ON THIS ISLAND The story behind the world’s most fabulous pearls
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ong before humans discovered diamonds, pearls were the world’s first precious gem. For centuries, these natural marvels have bewitched us with their magical combination of ethereal color and rich, radiant luster — pearls’ unique appearance led the Ancient Greeks to believe they were the teardrops of the gods, a token of heavenly powers bestowed upon a lucky few on earth. It was not until Kokichi Mikimoto and his pioneering of cultured pearls that anyone ever really understood how pearls came to be. By harnessing nature, Mikimoto was able to control and craft the development of pearls whose quality surpassed anything that had been seen before. And thanks to Mikimoto’s ingenuity, exquisite pearls are no longer a rarefied luxury reserved for the highest strata of society; he made them attainable for women from all walks of life. Today, the world’s most
coveted pearls still come from the same Japanese island where Mikimoto first began his business over 100 years ago. To understand the importance of Mikimoto’s impact on pearls as we know them today, one has to look back to history. From Cleopatra to Queen Elizabeth, pearls have historically been worn by and symbolized royalty, aristocracy and the world’s most powerful women. Traditionally, pearls were only available according to the whims of nature, making them incredibly hard to come by. Pearls are formed when a foreign object, like a grain of sand or a stray piece of shell, enters an oyster’s shell. As a defense against this intruder, the oyster coats the object in layer after layer of nacre, the iridescent substance that pearls are made of. Given this process, there’s no guarantee of the size, shape, color or regularity of the pearls an oyster produces. So, before Mikimoto, it could take decades to harvest enough pearls to make just one necklace. And even at that, the pearls would never be perfectly round or necessarily match.
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Kokichi Mikimoto was born in 1858 in the Japanese seaside town of Toba, whose greatest export was natural pearls. Given that the world’s pearl supply was nowhere near the global demand, Toba’s pearl-producing oyster population was rapidly depleting. Mikimoto observed the high prices pearls were fetching but also the vast fluctuations in natural pearls’ quality, as many of them were misshapen and underdeveloped. He had an idea — what if he could grow the perfect pearl, on demand, rather than waiting to see what was harvested? After many trials and errors, he discovered a method of inserting a piece of shell into Akoya oysters that produced perfectly round, lustrous pearls that rivaled their natural counterparts. By 1896 he had patented his method and developed his own pearl farm on an island close by his hometown.
Known as Pearl Island, the site where Mikimoto first planted the seeds of what would become an international empire is still a working pearl farm today. The island has been transformed into a destination dedicated to all things pearl. Roughly four hours from Tokyo, Pearl Island houses a museum featuring historic antique jewelry as well as a diverse collection of important objects, such as a reproduction of the Philadelphia Liberty Bell made with 12,250 pearls and 366 diamonds, created for the 1939 World’s Fair. There are pearl-diving demonstrations, illustrating the elaborate method used to harvest pearls prior to Mikimoto’s invention of culturing.
From top: Akoya pearl and diamond earrings; $4,000, Akoya pearl and diamond earrings; $3,500 Opposite South Sea pearl necklace; $7,900, Akoya pearl and diamond ring; $1,850, Akoya pearl strand with diamond rondelles; $7,680
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The majority of Mikimoto’s Akoya pearls, still regarded as the very best quality in the world, are farmed in Ago Bay, about 45 minutes south of Pearl Island. It is here that oysters are prepared according to Mikimoto’s original method and placed beneath the ocean’s surface, where they begin the natural process of creating pearls. Each May, after two years in the ocean, the oysters are harvested and their pearls are collected. Each pearl is then meticulously evaluated based on five factors: luster, shape, surface perfection, color and size. This evaluation ensures that every necklace or pair of earrings is comprised of perfectly matched pearls. Every piece of Mikimoto jewelry is carefully
hand-crafted in the brand’s Japanese ateliers, exclusively handled by experts trained to work with these incredibly delicate gems. In 1905, Kokichi Mikimoto famously declared: “I would like to adorn the necks of all women around the world with pearls.” Because of Mikimoto’s innovation and experimentation, over 100 years later that dream no longer seems so far-fetched. Mikimoto fans range from silver screen legends Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly to contemporary trendsetters as varied as Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama. Whether it’s a classic strand of pure white Akoyas or a modernist pair of earrings made of deep gray South Seas, pearls are still as mesmerizing as ever.
SPOTLIGHT
THE THRILL OF
THE HUNT NAGI JEWELERS’ ARTFULLY CURATED ESTATE COLLECTION TRANSCENDS TRENDS
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agi Osta’s passion for antiques began at an early age. Growing up in Lebanon, Osta was first exposed to treasures from the past by his father, an antique dealer who primarily worked with ancient Egyptian and Roman artifacts. Though Osta didn’t plan on going into the family business, much less jewelry, some years after he had moved to the United States he had an epiphany. “I was in my twenties, working in the restaurant business and I really did not like it. One day, I just woke up in the middle of the night and thought ‘I want to work with jewelry’. I hadn’t realized how much it interested it me,” Osta recalls. After years of studying to become a gemologist, he embarked on his own as a jeweler. From the very beginning, he dedicated himself to collecting antique and estate jewels, developing a keen eye for rare, exceptional finds. Today, estate jewelry is a significant part of NAGI Jewelers’ offerings, and it continues be a topic that is dear to Osta. “You may find two pieces that have a lot of similarities, but for the most part all estate pieces are oneof-a-kind. They were created before we had the ability to produce 200 or 2,000 pieces at a time, so everything was very well thought out and everything was made by hand.” It’s that artisanal charm and meticulous craftsmanship that Osta looks for when adding to his collection.
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Osta’s interests span across eras, from Victorian to Art Deco and mid-century Retro. When pressed to name a favorite piece, he recalls a few: “I had an Art Deco bracelet with 20 carats of diamonds and emeralds and amazing filigree work that I regret giving up. We sold it to Sotheby’s 25 years ago for $20,000. Another piece I loved was a gorgeous 1940’s diamond necklace with a very unique clasp. And a third is a French ring from the 1940’s with trapezoid and emerald-cut diamonds; my wife Liz has been wearing it for 30 years.” That longevity is part of what makes estate jewelry so incredibly special — regardless of their age, these pieces have an allure that holds up over time. And beyond just being beautiful, antique jewels are a piece of history. As Osta says, “They each tell you about who the women were at the time. How they wore their clothes, how they wore their hair…” Some examples currently available include a Victorian brooch that converts into a pendant featuring a medley of rose- and old-mine-cut diamonds and a bold 1970’s freeform cuff in yellow gold and sterling silver by Robert Lee Morris. Rather than shopping at antique shows, like most estate jewelry dealers, Osta prefers to let pieces come to him. “I think it makes the pieces even more special, because we get to know the stories behind them. Because of where we are in the Northeast, between New York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania there’s a lot of history and a lot of jewelry that’s been moving around for the past 300 years.”
SPOTLIGHT
When he’s first presented with an estate piece, Osta looks to authenticate it and verify the quality. He’ll take time to research and study the piece, but ultimately Osta is looking for jewels that have character. When it comes to refurbishing an estate piece, Osta says: “My first choice is always to restore it and keep it historically accurate, but I also love recycling and redesigning older pieces.” One such example is a circa 1860 ring comprised of what Osta describes as “three castles soldered together with diamonds on top.” After determining that the diamonds were damaged and judging that the overall style was a bit too opulent for today, he spent six months restoring it and redesigning it, replacing the diamonds with three emeralds. It was still a definite statement piece, but modernized. “A lady came in, saw it, and started jumping up and down. It was her dream ring. It would’ve been a shame to have scrapped it.” As any antique jewelry lover can attest, there’s a particular thrill in finding a one-of-a-kind piece that comes with its own history. Contemporary designs offer lots to love, but there’s something special about stumbling upon a piece that you won’t see anywhere else. More often than not, it isn’t something you were looking for or even thought you wanted. But that’s precisely what makes collecting estate jewels so special: you never know what will speak to you. Perusing the estate collection at Nagi can yield everything from an Art Nouveau cameo to a 1960’s cocktail ring. Take a look, get inspired and, if you’re lucky, you may be able to add the next chapter in one of these unique pieces’ stories.
Victorian diamond, sterling silver and rose gold pendant; $2,320
Art Deco diamond, emerald and white gold bracelet; $3,960
Custom bracelet made of vintage yellow gold chains and diamond tennis bracelet; price upon request
Estate freshwater pearl and yellow gold brooch; $890
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SPOTLIGHT
PERFECT GIFT HEARTS ON FIRE 3 Prong Hearts on Fire Martini diamond stud earrings in white gold; $1,250.00
MARCO BICEGO Paradise double drop color gemstone earrings; $770.00
ROBERTO DEMEGLIO Aura 1 row bracelet in 18K rose gold plated ceramic; $330.00
ROBERTO COIN 18k white gold 30MM inside outside diamond hoop earrings; $3,100.00 ROBERTO DEMEGLIO Aura 1 row bracelet in 18K yellow gold plated ceramic; $330.00
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