The J - Issue 5

��

CHIC GIFTS

ACCORDING TO THE EXPERTS THE

NOBLE EMERALD SHINES

NEW RECORD

SALES AT AUCTIONS

www.1884Collection.com - info@1884Collection.com

CONTENTS ISSUE 5 - DECEMBER 2017

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LITTLE GEMS

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GIFT GUIDE

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WISH UPON THE STARS

Some of the top experts in the world of jewelry and watches share their picks for this holiday season.

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ICON

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IN A JEWEL WORLD

Jewels and ornaments by the italian designer Gianfranco Ferré exhibited for the first time, in Turin, Italy.

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Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

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EVENT

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NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

A magical experience, at the Wallace Collection in London hosted by the home of diamonds: De Beer’s.

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rare and unique

EDITOR IN CHIEF Edoardo Cela EDITOR AT LARGE Roxanne Robinson

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INNOVATORS

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MATERIAL WORLD Innovation and creativity meet up in these fine jewelry brands.

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THE TREND

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EMERALD CITY

Super powers and royal appeal: the emerald is back.

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THE ADDRESS

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WINTER DREAMS

Living the Dolce Vita in the Pearl of Dolomites: Cortina d’Ampezzo.

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AUCTION

ART DIRECTOR Valeria Romeo ADVERTISING Gayle Perry CONTRIBUTORS Federica Barbaro, Tanya Dukes, Marion Fasel Rebecca Hammer, Jenny Elizabeth Keul Gaia Passi, Kareem Rasheed Costanza Romagnoli, Emily Selter PUBLISHED BY The Jewelry Journal 18 East 41st Street Suite 1906 New York, NY 10017 USA t. + 1 212 8471336 adv@ thej-journal.com www.thej-journal.com

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For all inquiries please see contacts above

Record prices at Auction soar.

EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER Synersea srl Via Vincenzo Monti 5/a 20123 Milan Italy

COOL & COLLECTED

ON THE COVER: Kwiat 18K white gold diamond and ruby earrings, price upon request at Kwiat.com ON THE EDITORS LETTER: Clockwise from top left: Todd Reed 18k and 14K gold, sterling silver, tourmaline and diamond necklace, price upon request at toddreed.com.

Elena Ghisellini leather handbag, $895 at Bloomingdales, New York. Daniela Villegas earrings, $22,000 at Just One Eye, Los Angeles. René Caovilla Swarovski crystal and chiffon sandals, $1,390.00 at www.ReneCaovilla.com

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MANAGING EDITOR Ilaria Maggi

t. +39 02 48010910 redazione.milano@synersea.it www.synersea.it

The Jewelry Journal is a quarterly publication distributed through a selected network of jewelry retailers and through a mailing list of high net worth individuals and VIPS.

FOR THE

LOVE

OF JEWELRY

Fine Jewelry is always in season, but there is something magical about fine jewelry during the most festive time of the year. Perhaps it is all the glittering lights and ornamentation that adorns our homes and towns that recall the beauty of glittering gems. Like milk and coffee, wine and cheese, the holidays and jewelry just seem to go together.

The team here at The J Jewelry Journal isn’t alone in our love of jewelry when it comes to the spirit of giving – AND receiving! We assembled some of the most recognized jewelry and fashion experts who influence the end client daily with their highly sophisticated points of view. We asked retailers Ken Downing of Neiman Marcus and Marina Larroude of Barneys, digital influencer Tina Craig and jewelry editors such as Brooke Magnaghi and Claudia Mata among others to share some of their favorite jewelry as well as some other fabulous goodies to give and receive. We think you might also be inspired to pick up a bauble or two this December.

We’ve also included some inspiration in stories on the latest megasales from the auction houses that are breaking records daily, one more reason to buy that special piece you’ve been eyeing. Innovation isn’t lost on the world of jewelry as fine jewelers are finding new ways to turn traditional materials on their heads to create exquisite one of a kind jewelry. And what better time to than the holidays to revisit the beauty of the emerald?

In this issue, we also introduced a new section that we hope you will enjoy as much as we do. Little Gems will report on the exciting news, launches and openings of the jewelry business. We are especially excited about our piece on the Hope Diamond with some recently-revealed news on its enigmatic history.

They say that all that glitters may not be gold, but whatever it is, if it shines, you’ll find it here on the pages of The J Jewelry Journal. From our family here at The J, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together and wish you the happiest of seasons!

Editor at Large

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Les Royales Exclusives

CREED BOUTIQUES

N EW YO R K . L AS VE GAS . M IAM I

B E R G D O R F G O O D MAN

H O LT R E N F R E W

CREEDBOUTIQUE.COM

N E I MAN MAR C U S

AVA I L A B L E AT N E I M A N M A R C U S A N D H O LT R E N F R E W

Little gems Supernature Strikes a Chord Nature has been inspiring jewelry designers since time immemorial, but Solange Azagury Partridge’s new collection Supernature is quite an original take on topic. The designer’s starting point was one of her favorite books, the cult classic Supernature written by Dr. Lyall Watson in 1973. It analyzes the world’s wonders in scientific terms. “It’s quite mind blowing,” says Solange. The designer transformed the subject of the publication into a collection with motifs celebrating the five elements Fire, Water, Earth and the Aether, the essence once believed to permeate all space and link us to the universe.

Among the most “striking” pieces are the lightning bolt designs which look like the real thing. The centerpiece of Supernature is a necklace featuring a chunk of labradorite with lightning bolts shooting off of it. “There is quite a lot of iridescence in the stone so it looks like a storm cloud,” says Solange. – Marion Fasel Solange Azagury-Partridge 18K white gold, labradorite and diamond necklace and 18K gold and diamond earrings.

Noah’s Ark as Told

by Van Cleef & Arpels A precious parade of over 60 animals, that go two-by-two, form Van Cleef & Arpel’s latest high jewelry collection. Among the many creatures, there are darling donkeys, rascally raccoons, elegant owls, gorgeous giraffes and beautiful Billy goats. Created over a period of three years, the genesis for the idea started when the French jeweler’s president and CEO, Nicolas Bos, spotted a seventeenth century painting, The Entry of the Animal’s on Noah’s Ark by Jan Brueghel the Elder, at the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles. “It’s a beautiful representation of animals with a lot of a movement and a sense of gracefulness,” explains Bos. “The fact that all the animals were couples was also a starting point.” In order to make the critters look like works of art, they were all made as brooches. “When you create a necklace, bracelet earring or ring you see a piece of jewelry before you see the motif, but for a brooch, you see a sculpture then you understand it can be worn,” says Bos. The final stage of the collection included a creative collaboration with Robert Wilson. The director and visual artist built a little ark suspended above a room with a vitrine for each animal built in the walls. Dramatic lighting and sounds punctuated the exhibition. “Noah’s Ark Inspires Van Cleef & Arpels” has delighted crowds in Paris, Hong Kong and New York over the course of the last year. – MF Diamond raccoon brooch from Noah’s Ark collection.

Fair with Flair Discerning jewelry collectors with deep pockets descended upon New York’s Park Avenue Armory for The European Fine Arts Fair, known as TEFAF, from October 28th through November 1st. TEFAF’s elite roster of exhibitors represents the international cognoscenti of art and design, with museum-worthy wares ranging from Greek antiquities to Old Master paintings, all of which are meticulously vetted and authenticated by TEFAF’s governing committee. Of the 93 exhibitors at this fall’s show, a select group of estate jewelry dealers and contemporary designers included such heavy-hitters as the British royal family favorite Wartski, Monaco-based Veronique Bamps and Chinese artist-jeweler Wallace Chan. A few highlights — Lee Siegelson’s circa 1936 Belperron ruby, rose quartz and enamel floral brooch, featured in one of Diana Vreeland’s legendary “Why Don’t You…” columns for Harper’s Bazaar, Hemmerle’s patinated-copper cuff topped with a gobstopping aquamarine, and A. Aardewerk’s circa 1901 Lalique pendant of plique-à-jour enameled leaves and twigs dotted with pearls. – Kareem Rasheed Belperron brooch, circa 1936.

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Little gems New Facts About the Hope Diamond Revealed

BY MARION FASEL

When Harry Winston gave the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian in 1958, he knew he was donating a treasure people would enjoy for posterity, in fact, it has long been the most popular item in the museum. What Winston may not have known is how important a subject of study the 45.52-carat blue diamond would become.

Around 2010, Richard Kurin, the Under Secretary for History, Art and Culture at the Smithsonian Institute, tried to find historic references to the stone’s dark magic powers prior to when it belonged to Pierre Cartier. He couldn’t.

Thus, it was presumed that the Cartier scion had invented the mythology to lure Evalyn Walsh McLean to buy the stone. It worked and, of course, the jeweler’s fib elevated the mystique of the Hope Diamond forever.

While it may be a disappointment, or perhaps a relief, that the curse is a modern-day myth, the scientists recently discovered something pretty magical that is absolute fact.

Over the last 10 years, scholars—led by Dr. Jeffrey Post, Chair of the Department of Mineral Sciences and curator of the National Gem and Mineral Collection—have pieced together what the Hope Diamond looked like when it was owned by Louis XIV. Throughout its history, the diamond was cut three times.

After the Sun King purchased it in 1673, he had the original 115-carat gem cut down to a 69-carat brilliant-shaped stone.

Then, when it was stolen from the French treasury in 1792, it was cut again to its current size to elude authorities. The stone surfaced in London, around 1839, with the man who gave the diamond its modern name, Henry Philip Hope.

While historians knew Louis XIV’s French Blue was 69-carats, they did not know the exact faceting pattern.

A few years ago, however, a lead cast of it was discovered

by Professor François Farges at the Museum of National d’Histoire Naturelle, in Paris. He also uncovered records

stating that,“The gem wasn’t worn. It was mounted to be observed by diplomats from all over Europe who visited the king,” explains Farges. “It was a political instrument that said France was so rich they could use diamonds at any time to finance a huge army if the country was invaded.”

After Professor Farges shared the findings with Dr. Post, they engaged master lapidary John Hattleberg to faithfully recreate Luis XIXs’ French Blue in cubic zirconia.

Hattleberg also worked with a jeweler to replicate the original gold mounting. When the two parts were put together, it revealed that the gem was cut to create a sun motif— representing the Sun King—that would beam out from the stone toward observers.

“It is not quite as spectacular as taking the DNA from the blood of a mosquito and creating a dinosaur,” says Dr. Post. “I mean it is not like we are going to make Jurassic Park out of this, but on the other hand we have used modern technology to bring back the history of a diamond that no one has seen since Louis XIV owned it in 1792.”

Top: The Hope Diamond set in diamond necklace, made around 1912, for Evalyn Walsh McLean. Photo courtesy.

Bottom: Three simulations of the Hope Diamond show how it looked when it was owned by gem dealer Jean Baptiste Tavernier (far left), the brilliant style Louis XIV had it cut into what was known as the French Blue (center), and the final shape of the stone that was named the Hope Diamond. Photo courtesy of John Bigelow Taylor.

GIFT GUIDE

WISH UPON THE STARS 70 OF THE CLASSIEST GIFTS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON. C O M P I L E D B Y R OX A N N E R O B I N S O N

Here at The Jewelry Journal we love the holidays - what better time to spoil a loved one with a precious piece of jewelry? We asked some of the top experts in the world of jewelry and watches to share their picks for the season.

But as one doesn’t live on jewelry alone, we’ve added some other goodies to pair with your gems and timepieces. Enjoy!

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GIFT GUIDE

_ C I N DY C H AO

T

INA CRAIG FO U N D E R , BAG S N O B .C O M

_ CA R L A_ A M O R I M

_ FENDI

_ M O R GA N L A N E

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_ SA B I N E G ET T Y

I’ve been collecting Cindy’s jewel art for almost 10 years. Owning one of her pieces is like capturing the essence of nature and owning the spirit of beauty. This seashell ring from the Aquatic collection was inspired by Cindy’s snorkeling experience in Phuket. The multilayered ring portrays a blackdiamond starfish overlaying the diamond seashell.

C R OW’ S N E S T

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PA I G E NOV I C K

D E B O R A H PAGA N I

Clockwise from top left: Cindy Chao 18K white gold and diamond ring, price upon request at www.cindychao.com. Carla Amorim 18K earrings, $2,500 at flont.com.

Morgan Lane sleep mask, $110 at Morgan-lane.com. Crow’s Nest 18K rose gold and tsavorite ring, $5,000 at flont.com. Deborah Pagani 18K oxidized white gold and grey diamond ring, $5,300 at flont.com. Paige Novick 18K gold and diamond bracelet, $4,610 at flont.com. Sabine Getty 18K gold and sapphire ring $4,505 at flont.com .Fendi Run Away sunglasses, $520 at Fendi Boutiques nationwide.

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GIFT GUIDE

_ A N DY WA R H O L: T H E I M P O S S I B L E C O L L EC T I O N

K

EN DOWNING S E N I O R V I C E P R E S I D E N T, FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R O F N E I M A N M A R C US

_ STEPHEN WEBSTER

_ E L I Z A B ET H LO C K E

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_ M A R C O B I C EG O

I can’t imagine a more exciting excursion to celebrate the season, than rocking the holidays with rockstar jeweler, Stephen Webster! Traveling to the exotics of Africa in Zambian gem fields, while creatively collaborating with the designer himself as you envision your one of a kind treasure with a 7.2 carat emerald. While some say Merry Christmas, I say; Rock On!

COOMI

_ M A R G OT M C K I N N EY

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FO R NA S ET T I

S H I NO L A

Clockwise from top left: Andy Warhol: The Impossible Collection by Assouline, $845. Stephen Webster custom-made emerald ring experience, $300,000; (product shown is for example only). Coomi sterling silver, 20K gold and diamond earrings, $500. Margot McKinney Jewelry 18K gold, opal, diamond and sapphire ring, $18,500. Shinola The Limited Edition Runwell Turntable, $3,500. Fornasetti Scacco scented candle, $210. Marco Bicego 18K tourmaline, quartz, peridot, rhodolite, garnet, iolite, tanzanite, aquamarine, apatite, topaz, citrine, and amethyst multi-strand necklace. Elizabeth Locke 19K gold, turquoise and diamond ring, $5,950. All available at Neiman Marcus nationwide and NeimanMarcus.com.

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GIFT GUIDE

_ JEMMA WYNNE

B

ROOKE MAGNAGHI

_ T H I E R RY L A S RY

B R A N D C O N S U LTA N T A N D E D I T O R & C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R OF FLONT

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A R A VA RTA N I A N

MIZUKI

_ BEBOE

For me, the Holidays are all about getting into a messy Christmas-cookie-making situation with my kids. We get really silly. But I’ve also been known to nerd out on holiday decorations and obsess over the details of tabletop arrangements. I can’t help myself and this year, I’m clearly thinking pink.

_ I SA B E L M A R A N T

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M A N S U R GAV R I E L

N I NA R U N S D O R F

Clockwise from top left: Jemma Wynne 18K rose gold, sapphire and diamond bracelet, $24,360 at www.jemmawynne.com. Thierry Lasry, Eventually sunglasses, $575 www.thierrylasry.com. Mizuki 14K gold and freshwater pearl earrings, $1,695 at Bergdorf Goodman. Isabel Marant Luliana glitter ankle boots, $950 at www. isabelmarant.com. Nina Runsdorf 18K white gold rubellite and diamond flip ring by special order, price upon request at www.nsrjewelry.com. Mansur Gavriel mini saddle bag $695, at www.mansurgavriel.com. Beboe pre-filled cannabis vaporizer, $60 and cannabis pastilles, $25, at www.beboe.com. Ara Vartanian 18K white gold and diamond bracelet, price upon request, at www.aravartanian.com.

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GIFT GUIDE

C

_ TARA HIRSHBERG

MATA

LAUDIA

C O N T R I B U T I N G J E W E L RY E D I T O R & C O - F O U N D E R O F V E R T LY

_ V E RT LY

_ R E N E E L EW I S

_ LO O G GU I TA R

As a recent Californian transplant, I’m embracing everything about west coast living, like these playful Tara Hirshberg mini surfboard pendants.

_ R ET R O U VA I

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F R E D L E I G H TO N

FOU N D R A E

S T. F R A N K T R AY

T H E N EW B O H E M I A N S

Clockwise from top left: Tara Hirshberg surfboard pendant $940, and necklace $900, at Canary, Dallas. Vertly rose scented lip balm, $20, www.vertlybalm.com.

Renee Lewis antique 18K gold, spinel and quartz earrings, $7,400, at www.Editorialist.com. Retrouvaí 14K yellow gold with diamonds, tiger’s eye and tourmaline compass, $4,905, at Barney’s New York. The New Bohemians book by Justina Blakeney, $30, at www.justinablakeney.com. St. Frank tray, $450, at www.stfrank. com. Foundrae 18K gold, diamond and Champlevé enamel cigar band ring, $2,850, at www.modaoperandi.com. Fred Leighton Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings, price upon request at www.fredleighton.com or 212.288.1872. Loog Guitars kids Pro 3 String Guitar, $199, at www.Maisonette.com.

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GIFT GUIDE

C

ARA BARRETT _

EDITOR HODINKEE

_ CA RT I E R

NO M O S

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M AT T I O L I

BY R E D O

_ P R A DA

Those double-C’s adorn more than just ballet flats and handbags!

Chanel has just added the Code Coco to its watch offerings. This bracelet watch features a clasp modeled after the famous 2.55 purse which can easily transition from night to day. It’s perfect for those looking for something a bit more discreet.

_ JO H N H A R DY

_

_

AU D E M A R S P I GU ET

CHANEL

Clockwise from top left: Nomos Orion 38 gray sapphire crystal case back, calatrava case manual movement watch $2,620 at www.nomos-store.com. Cartier Panthère medium steel watch. $4,600 at www.cartier.com. Byredo room spray, approximately $98 at Byredo.com. John Hardy 18K gold chalcedony, moon quartz and multi-color diamond earrings. $12,300 at John Hardy NYC store. Chanel Code Coco stainless steel watch, $5,000 at select Chanel boutiques.

Audemars Piguet X Carolina Bucci 37mm white gold watch. $51,400 at select Audemars Piguet Boutiques. Prada bag, $1,970. At select Prada boutiques.

Mattioli 18K rose gold and diamond ring, $2860 at JR Dunn Jewelers, Lighthouse FL. 18

GIFT GUIDE

B

RUCE PASK

_ FOX E N

M E N ’ S FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R , BERGDORF GOODMAN AND N E I M A N M A R C US

_ B R U N E L LO C UC I N E L L I

_ SIX SEASONS

BY JO S H UA M C FA D D E N

_ S H A M BA L L A

_ Z EGNA

I love things that promote the idea of community and sharing things that inspire gatherings and togetherness, like cooking a meal for friends and family. For instance, these cookbooks can inspire a great afternoon with a trip to the farmers’ market to buy Brussels sprouts, and are easy to appreciate for any level of chef.

_ JO R G E A D E L E R

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C H R O M E H E A RTS B B Q S ET

ROLEX

Clockwise from top left: Foxen Pinot Noir 2014 Pinot Noir, John Sebastiano Vineyard, $48, www.foxenvineyard.com. Brunello Cucinelli puffer jacket in navy, $2,995. Down-filled puffer jacket in orange, $2,825. Cable-knit sweater, $1,495 at Goodman’s, 800 967 3788. Shamballa Jewels bracelet, price upon request at Goodman’s. Jorge Adeler cufflinks, price upon request at Goodman’s. Rolex vintage oyster perpetual date watch, 18K yellow gold circa 1985, $10,500 at Goodman’s. Chrome Hearts BBQ set, similar styles at Goodman’s. Ermenegildo Zegna record player $2,600 and wireless headphones $650 at Goodman’s. Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables, $21.94 at Amazon.com.

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GIFT GUIDE

_ S P I N E L L I K I LC O L L I N

M

ARINA LARROUDE FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R , B A R N E Y S N E W YO R K

_ S T E P H A N I E W I N D S O R A N T I QU E S

_ DAU P H I N

_ ROLEX

At the top of my wish list this holiday season is Irene Neuwirth’s chrysoprase necklace which she wore to the office. I was obsessed when I saw it! It’s big and substantial yet it’s also delicate and feminine.

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_ H I R OTA K A

GUC C I

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F E R NA N D O JO R G E

ALAÏA

I R E N E N EU W I RT H

Clockwise from top left: Spinelli Kilcollin diamond earrings, $15,900. Stephanie Windsor Antiques Victorian starburst locket, $4,400. Vintage Rolex watch oyster perpetual watch $5,280. Hirotaka yellow gold wire hoop earrings, $780. Irene Neuwirth chrysoprase necklace, $9,170. Alaïa bucket tote bag, $2,660.

Fernando Jorge long stream ring, $5,640. Gucci suede sandals, $1,250. Dauphin large volume ring, $14,850. All items available at Select Barneys New York Stores and Barneys.com.

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GIFT GUIDE

_ CREED

R

OXANNE ROBINSON

_ 1884 N EC K L AC E

R OX A N N E R O B I N S O N , E D I TO R AT L A R G E , T H E J J EW E L RY JO U R NA L A N D F I N E J EW E L RY A N D AC C E S S O R I E S E X P E RT

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P I E R R E H A R DY

EVA F E H R E N

_ CA RT I E R

_ D O RY N WA L L AC H

I’m equal parts visual and olfactory oriented so pleasing scents are just as important to me as beautiful objects. I tend to gravitate to unisex and men’s cologne’s such as this Creed Viking scent and heady, exotic rooms scents like Retour D’Egypte

by Buly. They set the stage for the jewelry I choose.

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B U LGA R I

PAU L A CA D E M A RTO R I

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FRED

A N I TA KO

O F F I C I N E U N I V E R S E L L E B U LY

V E R B R EU I L PA R I S

Clockwise from top left: Creed Viking fragrance, $495 at Creed Boutique, New York and www.neimanmarcus.com. 1884 18K gold, diamond and ancient bronze coin necklace, $3700, at Nagi Jewelers, CT and Louis Anthony Jewelers, PA. Pierre Hardy sandal, $795 at PierreHardy.com. Doryn Wallach 18K gold, agate, black onyx and diamond necklace, at $13,200 at www.dorynwallach.com. Bulgari: The Joy of Gems by Assouline, $250 at Assouline.com. Verbreuil Paris cardholder with Origata packaging, 120 Euros at Verbreuil, Paris. Officine Universelle Buly scented candle, 130 Euros at www.buly1803.com. Anita Ko 18K rose gold and ruby ring, $3,525 at AnitaKo.com. Fred Bracelet 18K rose gold, stainless steel and enamel bracelet, $3120 at Hamilton Jewelers and Bloomingdales nationwide.

Paula Cademartori leather bag, 1,760.00 Euros at Le Bon Marchè, Paris. Résonances de Cartier Panthère 18K yellow gold, black jasper, emerald and diamond bracelet, price upon request, by appointment only at select Cartier boutiques nationwide and 1-800-CARTIER. Eva Fehren 18K blackened white gold and diamond earrings, $17,825 at www.evafehren.com.

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ICON

22

ICON

IN A

JEWEL WORLD JEWELRY CREATIONS AND ADORNMENTS BY ITALIAN DESIGNER GIANFRANCO FERRÉ, EXHIBITED FOR THE FIRST TIME.

BY ILARIA MAGGI

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ICON

“THE JEWEL IS THE MOST IMMEDIATE ELEMENT WHICH ALLOWS TO EXPRESS A DESIRE FOR INNATE AND TIMELESS BEAUTY”. - GF

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ICON

G

ianfranco Ferré had an innate passion for jewels. In his creative imagination, they were not merely adornments to complete a look but often times the starting point and founding element of the dress itself. Gems, enameled metals, painted wood, Murano glass and Swarovski crystals were crafted into necklaces, bracelets and brooches. Not just precious materials, Ferré’s attention to detail was an essential part of his research. In fact, when explaining his unconventional jewelry during an interview he stated: “This matches my innate pleasure for experimentation, which finds expression for instance in the reinterpretation of ‘poor’ materials, historically extraneous to the jewelry culture, such as straw, raffia, wood, leather, net. Or the ones belonging to the industrial culture, like the whole range of metals - foundry iron, copper, bronze – or plexiglass, resin, or even glass paste. These materials are essential to me to give luxury a new, richer, more articulate and fluid connotation, more nuanced and stimulating”.

The designer, who became a fashion icon in the ‘80s after creating the 1978 women’s prêt-à-porter line that bears his name, went on to become Creative Director for Maison Christian Dior from 1989 to 1996. The passionate and often innovative approach he applied to the collections was also extended to accessories, in particular the ornaments, and the care he dedicated to them was never less than his attention

“IN A JEWEL THERE IS A WORLD. OR BETTER, THE WORLD”.

– GF to clothing. Curious and meticulous, he conceived jewelry as the concrete realization of “plenty of references and glances referred to the most disparate horizons, both real and fantastic, which I draw inspiration from. Therefore, I do not feel the slightest difference between “dreaming” a dress or a jewel.

So the impulse to search similar stimulus and suggestions is absolutely similar, in an infinitely heterogeneous dimension, with neither spatial nor temporal borders”.

Approximately 200 jewels and ornaments are on exhibition for the first time, through February 19th, at the exhibit entitled, Gianfranco Ferré. Sotto un’altra luce: Gioielli e ornamenti (Gianfranco Ferré. Under another light: Jewels and Ornament), held in the impressive Salone delle Feste at Palazzo Madama, in Torino. The display is a cross between a cage and a form of protection, with a series of minimalist and essential iron structures that enshrine and set off the beauty of the creations. The show chronicles pieces made for the runway shows between 1980-2007, expressed as accents to his apparel, in some cases shown along with the clothing. It reveals how the materials and jewels invented and built the dress, becoming both its physical substance and soul, in a playful interweaving of materials. To those familiar with his work, this comprehensive approach to structure and form is not surprising, especially since he had a degree in architecture. In the industry and beyond, Gianfranco Ferré rightfully earned his nickname and title as “the architect of fashion”.

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EVENT

N

IGHT AT THE MUSEUM

D

e Beers’ CEO, Francois Delage, knows that it is not enough to merely own precious diamonds, you must also have the right place to wear them. And also to that end, the charming French executive knows how to deliver the goods.

DE BEER’S CELEBRATES THEIR WORKS OF ART AMONGST CLASSICAL ART.

BY ROXANNE ROBINSON

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In November, the CEO hosted a client and press experience that brought several magical ingredients together to create a once in a lifetime luxury experience, hosting a select group of VIPs for a dinner designed specifically by renowned chef Jason Artherton to offer an intimate glance at one of London’s most treasured art attractions, The Wallace Collection. As Delage explained it’s all about forming that bond, “The one-toone relationship and intimate events are essential along the journey to a diamond. For us, expertise needs to meet emotion”.

No doubt the guests arriving at the stately Hertford House, which boasts artwork from Old Masters such as Rembrandt and fanciful Louis 14th furniture which once belonged to Marie Antoinette herself, were feeling some giddiness about having private access to roam the rooms, while sipping their champagne after museum hours. Models mingled with guests, bedecked with De Beers’ most recent Lotus collection, eager to describe the pieces they were wearing.

EVENT

‘‘WE ARE THE HOME OF DIAMONDS, LONDON IS OUR HOME, AND THE WALLACE COLLECTION HERE IS ALSO THE HOME OF INCREDIBLE WORK OF ARTS, RARE TREASURE. WE WANTED TO SHARE THIS UNIQUE EXPERIENCE TO DISPLAY OUR OWN WORKS OF ART!’’.

Delage noted that the grand setting was a natural pairing, “We are the home of diamonds, London is our home, and the Wallace Collection here is also the home of incredible work of arts, rare treasure.

We wanted to share this unique experience to display our own works of art!”.

While the diamonds and art provided a feast for the eyes, the feast for the palette was created by Michelinstar British chef Jason Artherton, who made a rare appearance in the front of the house to welcome guests. After describing the specifically-designed menu, which included white asparagus, a crab soufflé and light fish, he quipped, “My wife asked if I might bring home a diamond bracelet from the event and I said ‘Sure, if you don’t mind me spending the next few years in jail”. Just as the art, Delage sees the likeness

between the exquisite gemstones and haute cuisine.

“Fine diamonds stimulate the senses through their visual appearance, color and inner light. Fine food also appeals to the senses with the balance of visual presentation and quality of the natural products and talent of the chef. It echoes in so many ways what will make a peerlessly beautiful jewel: a magnificent raw material and the talent of the cutter associated to the mastery of selection”. The French CEO added, “Jason is authentic and real like his cuisine which is very fitting with us. I have always been fan of his London restaurants especially Pollen Social. Fine cuisine is the salt of life, isn’t it?”.

While Delage welcomed guests as they were seated for dinner, he remarked on some historic news in the world of art and luxury this week that was punctuated by several record-breaking auctions, in particular, the Da Vinci that sold for $450 million (for more on auctions see pages 38 and 39.) “It has been a good week for all of us, so tonight, we celebrate.” A De Beers diamond definitely has the potential to fetch a hefty price at auction, especially the soothing Lotus diamond necklace with its raw center diamond, surrounded by polished diamonds in a variety of hues, which is totally unique and rare. “It would do well at auction, yet I know that its happy custodian will likely never want to part with it”.

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INNOVATORS

MATERIAL

WORLD NEW COLLECTIONS SHOWCASE GEMS IN UNORTHODOX SETTINGS.

BY EMILY SELTER

I

n 1995, when the jeweler Stefan Hemmerle first placed an important diamond in a setting crafted from iron, the idea to combine a precious stone with an industrial metal was considered pioneering and bold.

Inspired by 19th-century iron jewelry from Berlin, that citizens received from the German government in exchange for donating their gems to fund the War of Liberation against Napoleon, this innovative piece propelled Stefan towards the aesthetic modernization of his family’s historic company. Hemmerle has since gone on to produce coveted pieces of fine jewelry, crafted from the most unlikely of materials, including wood, pebbles and aluminum.

At TEFAF New York, last October, Hemmerle debuted a brooch created with playful materials never-before associated with fine jewelry: a set of wooden sticks from the children’s game Mikado. To create the piece, the jewelers in the company’s Munich workshop carefully crafted a setting out of the sticks and placed a shining 47.29-carat intense blue aquamarine in the center.

28

Larkspur & Hawk ring

Over the years, Hemmerle has continued to turn the concept of fine jewelry on its head, and has garnered a legion of steadfast fans in the process. Clients are enamoured of the company’s signature pieces, from reverse-set diamond earrings to ancient cameos placed in modern brass settings. Today, Hemmerle is among a number of innovative jewelers using unorthodox elements to create jewelry that is distinctive and expressive, but still crafted with exceptional gemstones.

Another jeweler who has embraced the use of unexpected materials in combination with precious stones is Silvia Furnmanovich. Her signature wood marquetry pieces are painstakingly crafted, using ancient techniques, and then set with gems. The Brazilian jeweler debuted her first marquetry collection in 2016 after travelling to Acre, Brazil’s westernmost state. There, she met up with skilled craftsmen, experts in the art of marquetry.

To create the intricate designs, the artisans work with native wood that is salvaged from the forest in the form

INNOVATORS

of fallen tree branches or bark; they then wash and soak the pieces in minerals to bring out their natural colors.

In a whimsical twist, Furmanovich commissioned the craftsmen to create tromp l’oeil wood marquetry renderings of faceted gemstones, and then set them with gold, diamonds, and other jewels.

Natural materials like wood and carbon have become popular among many avant-garde Jewelers, such as London-based Glenn Spiro, who recently presented a set of sleek cuffs made of mahogany; and Roman jeweler Fabio Salini, whose collection of jewels, crafted from carbon fiber set with diamonds and precious gems, are surprisingly lightweight and incredibly wearable.

These artistic and unexpected settings serve as a new way to showcase precious diamonds and gems.

INSPIRED BY 19TH-CENTURY IRON JEWELRY FROM BERLIN, THAT CITIZENS RECEIVED FROM THE GERMAN GOVERNMENT IN EXCHANGE FOR DONATING THEIR GEMS TO FUND THE WAR OF LIBERATION AGAINST NAPOLEON, THIS INNOVATIVE PIECE PROPELLED STEFAN TOWARDS THE AESTHETIC MODERNIZATION OF HIS FAMILY’S HISTORIC COMPANY.

Glen Spiro cuff

Emily Satloff has also stepped into new territory by integrating innovative materials into her designs.

Inspired by Georgian portrait miniatures, in which paintings of a loved one were encased within pieces of jewelry, Emily debuted a collection for her brand, Larkspur & Hawk, in which each design features a miniature painting. To create the tiny works of art, Satloff commissioned an artist to paint an abstract work in colorful enamel and gold leaf that she then cut up and incorporated into her designs. These one-of-a-kind earrings, rings, and necklaces each contain a painting set in gold and accented with colorful gemstones. While the pieces may have been inspired by antique designs, the jewels and the miniature works of art they contain are thoroughly modern.

Jewelers are continually testing boundaries with the types of materials they incorporate into their collections, so we can expect more delightfully tangible innovations in the future. As Hemmerle looks to celebrate its 125th anniversary next year, new concepts are sure to be unveiled in celebration of this milestone year. With their ingenuity, the possibilities are endless.

Sylvia Furmanovich earrings Hemmerle brooch

29

THE TREND

EMERALD

CITY FIT FOR A QUEEN OR KING, THE NOBLE EMERALD IS A GEM FAVORED BY ROYALTY THROUGHOUT HISTORY, NOT ONLY FOR ITS SUPERIOR QUALITY BUT ALSO FOR THE POWER THE STONE IS BELIEVED TO POSSESS.

According to Aristotle, the green-hued precious mineral could improve eyesight and prevent epilepsy. Across the board, cultures such as the ancient Egyptians and the Chinese thought it brought good things to your life: luck, creativity, fertility and fidelity. Super powers aside, emeralds like these – especially sexy new shoulder-grazing earring styles – will give anyone the royal treatment.

BY ROXANNE ROBINSON

YOSSI H A RARI _ 18K gold and emerald slice earrings, $5,185 at www.yossiharari.com.

SYLVA & CI E _ 18K yellow gold, Brazilian emerald earrings, $14,750 at Stanley Korshak, Dallas, TX.

ATE L I ER SWA ROVSKI _ Fine Jewelry 18K gold bracelet with Swarovski-created diamonds and emeralds, price upon request at www.atelierswarovski.com.

30

THE TREND

MA R G E RY H IR S C H EY _ 22K yellow gold earrings with Gemfields Zambian emeralds, $19,300 at ABC Carpet & Home or MargeryHirschey.com.

DI OR FI NE J EW ELRY _

S E L I M MOUZA NNA R _ 18K gold pink gold, enamel, diamond and emerald ring, $1,860.00 at Dover Street Market, New York City.

18K yellow, white and pink gold, diamond, sapphire, emerald and garnet necklace, price upon request, at select Dior boutiques and - 800-929-DIOR.

A NA KH OUR I _

A R A VA RTAN IAN _ 18K gold, emerald and diamond earrings, price upon request at www.aravartanian.com.

18 K gold ring with Gemfields Zambian emeralds, $7,200 at ModaOperandi.com.

PA I G E NOVI CK _ 18K gold and emerald earrings, $2,780 at www.paigenovick.com.

31

WINTER

DREAMS INSIDERS’ TIPS TO DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF CORTINA D’AMPEZZO THIS WINTER, AMONG SKI SLOPES, GOURMET RESTAURANTS, LUXURY BOUTIQUES AND TIMELESS HAUNTS.

BY GAIA PASSI

32

THE ADDRESS

K Rosapetra Spa Resort

nown as the Pearl of the Dolomites: a small jewel nestled in a luminous valley in the midst of some of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Cortina d’Ampezzo will win you over with its snowy peaks that glisten in the sunlight and become tinged with pink at dusk; along with the crowded afternoons in Corso Italia and jet set nightlife, gourmet restaurants and historic night spots. Lovers of that crisp mountain air that can only be found above 2,000 meters will only have to slip on their ski boots and blaze their way down the slopes: Cristallo, Faloria, Cinque Torri, Tofane, each peak has its own story and mysterious, wild beauty.

33

THE ADDRESS

WHERE TO EAT&PARTY IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO GET BORED IN CORTINA: FROM A BEFORE-DINNER APERITIVO TO AFTER-DINNER ACTIVITIES, THE SOCIAL EVENTS CALENDAR IS TANTALIZINGLY FULL. PRE-DINNER

VILLA SANDI BOTTEGA DEL VINO Largo Poste, 30

Before dinner, you must drink at least one Spritz (a typical cocktail from the Veneto, made with Prosecco and Aperol): Villa Sandi is the right spot, a classic meeting place to enjoy a drink and a bite after a day on the slopes, while planning the rest of the evening.

DINNER

SANBRITE Via Alverà The flavors of the vegetable garden and forests and a spectacular view of the Dolomites: SanBrite was opened this summer by Riccardo Gaspari – a young chef from Cortina who studied under Massimo Bottura – and his wife Ludovica. Together, they have created a gourmet chalet that unites love for the mountains with a sophisticated, authentic cuisine.

SanBrite. Credit Stefania Giorgi

AFTER-DINNER

EL CAMINETO

RIFUGIO AVERAU

VIP CLUB

Località Rumerlo

Località Forcella Nuvolau, 9

Corso Italia, 207

At the foot of the Tofane mountains, right off the ski slopes and with a breathtaking panorama, this is one of the most famous restaurants in Cortina: the fireplace (that gives the restaurant its name) is always lit and the atmosphere is elegant and intimate. Their spaghetti with onions has become a cult dish.

In order to really appreciate the splendor of the Dolomites, you have to go to the top: Rifugio Averau can be reached during the day by skis, ski lift, or heliski, and at night on snowmobile, and is famed for its excellent food and unparalleled view. It is also possible to spend the night in their accommodations.

Since 1972, Vip Club is a must of the Cortina nightlife. Open every evening until late, guests can sing and dance around the historic Piano Bar; in the club, piano music is alternated with dj sets, or you can chat around America Bar while sipping delicious cocktails.

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THE ADDRESS

FRANZ KRALER In his five boutiques on Corso di Cortina, Franz Kraler offers the best from the world’s top fashion brands. On Dec. 8, in Corso Italia 119, he inaugurated the largest women’s department store in the Dolomites.

SHOPPING TIME

PAOLETTI DI FOLLINA Via Roma, 25 In this gentlemen’s boutique, open since the early 1980’s, you can find elegant, researched pieces in a country-chic style, all exclusively Made in Italy. Let yourself be guided by the owner herself, known affectionately as “Cicci”, and by her expert shop assistants.

MAGAMAISON Piazzetta San Francesco, 14 A delightful “salon” with a view in a hidden corner in the center of town, here you can find the most beautiful fabric in Cortina: linen table cloths, cashmere throws, pillows and many other decorations for the table and home, a blaze of colors and refined patterns.

ART CORNER CONTINI ARTE Piazza Franceschi, 1 Contini Arte gallery has always been a point of reference for collectors and art enthusiasts, with works by extraordinary contemporary artists such as Manolo Valdés, Igor Mitoraj and Fernando Botero.

December 29th marks the inauguration for the new exhibit, “Depero.

Planning – Drawings for advertising 1920/1928” (Depero. La progettualità – Disegni per la pubblicità 1920/1928), with 50 unpublished designs for advertising projects designed by the artist.

35

THE ADDRESS

WHERE TO SLEEP&RELAX

STARLIGHT ROOM RIFUGIO COL GALLINA In Cortina you can enjoy a night “amongst the stars” by reserving the Starlight Room at Rifugio Col Gallina: a double bedroom immersed in nature, with a glass ceiling and walls to admire the sky, surrounded only by the snow and silence of the mountains.

Thrilling. For other relaxing experiences at high altitude, the Rifugio Lagazuoi offers the highest sauna in the Dolomites, 2.752 meters in altitude; while at Rifugio Scoiattoli on 5 Torri, you can soak in an outdoor pool that is heated with a woodburning stove; at Rifugio Crodo da Lago you can enjoy a Finnish sauna on the banks of Lake Federa. Credit Giacomo Pompanin

ROSAPETRA SPA RESORT Zuel di Sopra, 1 Fir wood, stone and eco-sustainable technology, wood-burning stoves and a refined decor, comfortable spaces: a peaceful oasis that’s perfect for anyone who wants to experience the tranquility of the mountain and enjoy the wellness offered at the spa, with organic cosmetic products and top-notch holistic treatments.

CRISTALLO A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT & SPA Via Rinaldo Menardi, 42 Dominating the Valley since 1901, with majestic art nouveau architecture, the Cristallo hosts celebrated guests from all over the world. This 5-Star luxury hotel is the ideal place for anyone looking to regenerate both body and soul, thanks to the Health Coach service: a personalized program based on a proper diet, physical activity, rest and the right spa treatments.

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THE ADDRESS

LOCATED AT 1124M ALTITUDE, SURROUNDED BY THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PEAKS IN THE DOLOMITES, CORTINA D’AMPEZZO IS A CULT DESTINATION FOR WINTER SPORTS LOVERS. THERE ARE 66 SKI SLOPES (11 OF WHICH ARE BLACK), SPRAWLING OVER 85KM. IN 1956, IT BECAME THE BACKGROUND FOR THE WINTER OLYMPICS, AND TODAY PREPARATIONS ARE UNDERWAY TO HOST THE UPCOMING WORLD CUP IN 2021.

Credit Giacomo Pompanin 37

AUCTION

COOL

& COLLECTED

AUCTION EXPERT ADVICE ON BIDDING IN A RED-HOT MARKET.

BY TANYA DUKES

O

n October 26, in a front of standing-room only crowd at the New York City salesroom of Phillips auction house, a legendary Rolex Daytona once owned

by Paul Newman sold for $17.8 million, setting a new world record for a wristwatch at auction. Less than a month later, on November 13, a René Lalique pendant fetched at least seven times its pre-sale estimate when it sold at Christie’s for $978,480, establishing a new world auction record for Art Nouveau jewelry in the process.

Two days after that, at a Sotheby’s sale in Geneva, a world record price for a fancy light pink diamond was achieved by a Harry Winston ring set with a 33.63 carat solitaire when it sold for $12.8 million. And before the season’s jewelry auctions wind down in December, it’s probable that more unprecedented milestones will be made. As the fortunes of the .001 percent continue to rise, so too does the number of collectors of exceptional jewelry and gemstones. The increasing competition (and accompanying prices) has contributed to bringing a bumper crop of ultra-desirable pieces to auction, “When a market is healthy and strong, people tend to want to use it,” says David Warren, Senior International Jewelry Director for Christie’s. “Super rare pieces are making fabulous prices. There’s a big demand out there.” One such rarity is Le Grand Mazarin, a pink Golconda diamond weighing more than 19 carats that—until its recent November sale— resided in a private collection and had not been seen

38

in public since 1962. Its unique size and color alone would’ve been sufficient to prompt a bidding war, but the piece exemplifies another quality that sends bidders lunging for their paddles: impressive and airtight provenance—that is to say the lot’s chain of custody and ownership. A colorful past that includes a place among the French crown jewels and a bungled theft during the 18th century—all documented in artworks and inventories across the centuries—led Warren, a 41-year member of Christie’s staff, to describe the treasure as “the most historic stone I’ve had the honor of handling.” It sold for $14.9 million to an undisclosed buyer, perhaps to disappear from view for decades to come.

With such high stakes for sellers and potential buyers, “one has to be quite savvy about the market and take professional advice,” says Warren. He insists that the role of Christie’s specialists goes beyond obtaining lots to sell and realizing maximum prices. “We often act like jewelry stock brokers, advising our clients on what they might want to buy or what they shouldn’t buy.” And the services of the auction house’s experts aren’t restricted to those with eight-figure budgets.

“You can have a very special piece for $50,000 or $50 million, depending on the category,” he explains.

In the eyes of some collectors it’s a connection to a beloved personality that gives an added level of allure to an auction. “Famous names attract more buyers” explains Susan Abeles, Director of US Jewelry for Bonhams. In May of this year, an auction of celebrity novelist Jackie Collins’ possessions doubled its presale estimates. Likewise, the 2015 auction of jewelry from the estate of Lauren Bacall “brought significantly stronger prices because of her name, persona and her relationship with the jewelry designer.” The actress was commonly spotted in two stacked yellow gold

AUCTION

‘‘IF A JEWEL HAS BEEN PHOTOGRAPHED [ON A CELEBRITY] OR ASSOCIATED WITH A FAMOUS STORY IT BECOMES A FOCUS POINT OF INTEREST,” SAYS ABELES, DIRECTOR OF US JEWELRY FOR BONHAMS. “IT CAN ADD TO THE CHARM OF THE PIECE”.

and diamond bracelets created by Jean Schlumberger.

One of the pair realized a sale price of $50,000, more than five times its market value estimate. “If a jewel has been photographed [on a celebrity] or associated with a famous story it becomes a focus point of interest,” says Abeles. “It can add to the charm of the piece.” Fans of Zsa Zsa Gabor—or at least her taste in diamonds—can test their luck at acquiring a 66-carat diamond necklace created by Harry Winston that was once owned by the actress. Bonhams will auction the piece on December 4. Estimates for the rivière begin at $1,200,000, though there’s a distinct possibility that the number may spiral higher, especially if multiple buyers are intent on making it theirs, as Abeles’ experience makes clear. “At Bonhams we sold two very similar Van Cleef & Arpels 1943 Danseuse brooches, two years apart,” she says. “The first one fetched $68,500 while the second brought $221,000. The only explanation for dramatic increase was that two bidders wanted the second brooch. It would be hard to replicate that atmosphere and achieve the same or similar results again.” Amid the stark quantitative language of sales estimates and prices realized, the pleasure of using auctions as a vehicle to develop connoisseurship can get lost in the shuffle.

39

AUCTION

“WHEN A MARKET IS HEALTHY AND STRONG, PEOPLE TEND TO WANT TO USE IT,” SAYS DAVID WARREN, SENIOR INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY DIRECTOR FOR CHRISTIE’S. “SUPER RARE PIECES ARE MAKING FABULOUS PRICES. THERE’S A BIG DEMAND OUT THERE”.

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“Jewelry collectors work on their collections like art collectors work on theirs,” explains Frank Everett, Senior Vice President of Sotheby’s Luxury Division.

“A collection is never finished. It’s never done. It can [be] refined”. And no purchase has to be forever.

“After a number of years you might sell something that doesn’t suit your taste anymore,” he says. “If you own a piece but later find a finer example, you might fund your next purchase by selling the earlier one”. If acquiring a jewel with investment potential is a priority, one of the key criteria is its maker. “It’s about the signature. It’s about iconic design. Those things are most important,” says Everett. “Look for pieces from innovators”. He cites an Art Deco Cartier rock crystal and diamond bracelet that Sotheby’s will auction on December 5 as a prime example.

“It’s as rare as a Rothko. They’re not making any more of them. It’s never going to do anything other than appreciate”. Jewelry collectors have a distinctly intimate connection with their acquisitions that most other collectors don’t. That’s a large part of the category’s appeal. “I find jewelry most personal because it’s worn on the body. It’s often given for a special occasion and it’s completely durable. Metal and gemstones last forever. They’re a true legacy you can pass on,” says Everett. “You won’t enjoy stocks and bonds and other investments nearly as much”.

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