Stay+Play Ignacio Maza’s posh picks for unique retreats.
BOUTIQUES & BATHS
it remains a bustling commercial district. Walk the length of Istlikal Cadessi, Istanbul’s premier pedestrian avenue, or ride the vintage tram to experience the city. Witness whirling dervishes perform at Mevlevi Monastery and wander around the up-and-coming Karakoy neighborhood. Continue uphill through a bohemian neighborhood of galleries and cafés to reach the Galata Tower, built by the Genoese more than 700 years ago. Ride the elevator to the top of the tower and take in some of the best views of Istanbul. A short drive away, Dolmabahçe Palace is Turkey’s version of Versailles. This opulent royal residence marks the beginning of the fall of the Ottoman dynasty; it opened in 1856 and nearly bankrupted the Sultan. A guided visit will take you through colossal halls and sumptuous interiors. I was struck by the grand, Baccarat crystal-designed staircase and the ceremonial hall, which could accommodate more than 2,000 guests beneath the world’s largest chandelier.
Across the Bosphorus, you’ll discover the Asian side of Istanbul—quieter, suburban, and off-the-beaten path. Explore neighborhoods with time-honored wooden houses, enjoy a traditional meal, or stroll the seaside to catch a glimpse of the old city and Leander’s Tower, sentinel of the strait. Don’t miss Beylerbeyi Palace, the summer residence of the Sultans and a must for history buffs. Istanbul is also a shopper’s Mecca. For antiques, head to the Ҫ Çukurcuma district for Ottoman treasures and 20th-century finds. If you’re on the hunt for highend and elegant pieces, visit the shops at Nişantasi and Bebek. And nothing beats haggling in the Grand Bazaar. Still, no visit to Istanbul is complete without experiencing a Turkish bath, the centuries-old ritual. One of the best and most impressive is Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami, also built by the brilliant architect Sinan. And please do not worry. The famous Topkapi dagger which entranced me as child is still safely on display at the palace treasury, waiting for your visit.
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Opposite: The ornate interior of the Hagia Sophia mosque, originally built in 537 as a Christian cathedral.
For sheer splendor, stay at Ciragan Palace Kempinski, a five-star hotel amid a former Ottoman palace and located right on the Bosphorus. Situated on a hill and surrounded by acres of historic gardens, Swissotel The Bosphorus Istanbul offers extensive facilities and diverse guestroom options, including spacious, two-story apartments. Newcomer Raffles Istanbul is a modern, luxurious high-rise in the heart of the Zorlu Center. Istanbul’s next-generation luxury bazaar is where fashion, fine dining, and the arts converge. The intimate Shangri-La Istanbul has earned a loyal following for its impeccable service, fine dining, and guestrooms overlooking the Bosphorus. Located in the fashionable Sisli district, Park Hyatt Istanbul- Maçka Palas, in the fashionable Nişantaşi District, combines contemporary design with the building’s Art Deco style.
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