TK4 White Truffles by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

tasting kitchen #4 • nov 2012

Hong Kong & Macau Central Macau

White Truffles 白松露，厨房里的鑽石

Amber Center Stage 中央舞台

Haute Chocolate 頂級藝術巧克力饗宴

starter

The flavors and aromas of Brittany blue lobster, celeriac mash, foie gras and shaved white truffle intermingle and intensify in The Tasting Room's covered glass bowls until the guests themselves lift the lids to breathe in the complex bouquet. 法国布列塔尼蓝龙虾、芹菜根蓉、鹅肝酱，铺上少许白松露薄片，御膳房特制的玻璃盖碗使这些美味及香气交织而愈加浓郁。只要掀开盖子，立刻香气扑鼻。

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

editor’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. It’s truffle season, and in this, our fourth issue,

n o v

we’re serving up white truffle

2 0 1 2

w h i t e

dishes from cover to cover,

•

I s s u e

# 4

t r u f f l e s

Tasting Kitchen 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

all prepared by some of Hong Kong and Macau’s most talented chefs.

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Our starter is a luxurious combination of lobster, foie gras and truffles.

Mark Hammons

Our entrée selections pair the

Group Managing Director & Co-Publisher mhammons@igniteasia.com

famously aromatic fungus with eggs and quail and cheese and ravioli. Save room for dessert – it’s a cream-and-truffles-and-

Jenny Man Group General Manager & Co-Publisher jman@igniteasia.com

biscotto extravaganza created especially for Tasting Kitchen. Truffle season doesn’t last long, so it feels right to binge a little. But man cannot live on truffles alone. We’ve also got chocolate, a deconstructed daiquiri, mulled wine, Japanese kaiseki, dreamy good tempura with sake, salmon six ways with Aquavit, and some of the very best French food in Asia, cooked by a Dutchman. It’s an issue filled to bursting with delicious food and drink. Enjoy!

Jeff Hammons

Jean Alberti

Editor at Large

Chef at Large

jhammons@macau.com

jalberti@macau.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Director of Photography

Art Director

Mamie Chen

Kennis Yuen

Executive Editor

Production Manager

Helene Wong

Anita Leong

Chinese Editor

Circulation Manager

Yvonne Cheong

Jorge Vincent Ao

Editorial Coordinator

Distribution Executive

Crystal Tai, Inara Sim

Ivan Lam

Editors

Accountant

Group Advertising sales@igniteasia.com Hong kong Office

Macau Office

Stanley Lau

Gerard William Whitty

Asst. Sales Director

on our cover The Alba white truffle on the cover was photographed at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Hong Kong. 封面的阿爾巴白松露之后攝於香港 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon法国餐廳。

on page 8

Asst. Sales Director

+852 5159 0267

+853 6279 2238

slau@igniteasia.com

gwhitty@igniteasia.com

Subscriptions subscriptions@igniteasia.com

Alba white truffles with ovoli mushrooms (阿爾巴白松露之后与Ovoli蘑菇), by Chef Umberto Bombana.

Photographs by David Hartung

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

A member of Ignite Media Group (Hong Kong) Limited

contents A Moveable Feast 10 • Peerless Baccarat 12 • Retro Modern 14 • ‘Tis The Season 16 Years of Experience, Moments of Delight 18 • Heaven-Sent Tempura 20 • Center Stage 24 • The Exalted Alba Madonna 28 Fantastic Northern Flavors 40 • Haute Chocolate 46 • Seductive Deconstruction 54 • Restaurants 58

10 12

18 20

24 58

40 8

| TASTING KITCHEN |

46 november 2012

SINGLE MALT

SCOTCH WHISKY

november 2012

SKILLFULLY CRAFTED. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

| TASTING KITCHEN |

inspired living

移动式盛宴

a moveable feast Valcucine turns tidiness into an art form

Italian haute kitchen designers Valcucine have created the dream galley for compact urban living spaces. Their new Logica System is the epitome of sleek, efficient kitchen design, featuring drawers that glide out at a touch, deceptively spacious cabinets and cupboards, sliding countertops and an ultraclean, space-enhancing look. When you’re done cooking, all the pots and pans and plates and silverware can disappear in a flash, leaving nothing but artful tidiness. Available at Mooi Living Group www.mooi.hk 意大利顶级厨房设计品牌 Valcucine，为都市小而美的生活空间打造梦幻厨房。新推出的 Logica System 展现了时髦、高效率厨房设计的精髓，包括只要轻触就会滑开的抽屉，隐身的宽敞橱柜，滑动式流理台，营造出一尘不染、光可鉴人的偌大空间。料理完毕，所有锅碗瓢盆、餐具、银器瞬间消失，犹剩巧妙收纳后一丝不苟的干净整洁。有兴趣者请洽 Mooi Living Group www.mooi.hk。

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

caption november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

inspired living

无与伦比的巴卡拉

peerless baccarat Wine has never tasted better

from each wine the very best that it has

巴卡拉水晶最新的酒庄系列推出独具匠心

tures an extraordinary “universal” wine

to offer. “The glass expresses the com-

的「通用型」酒杯，充分彰显红酒、白酒

glass, made to enhance the experience

plexity of the wine’s terroir and its aro-

等各种葡萄酒的细腻口感，将品酒体验提

of any wine, red or white. Resembling a

mas,” says renowned sommelier Philippe

升至更高境界。此款酒杯外型有如一朵沉睡

sleeping tulip bloom, the glass’s broadly

Faure-Brac. “And the shape of the glass

闭阖的郁金香，宽大的凹面杯底、内倾的杯

concave base, inwardly angled sides and

is wonderful on your lips.” Though it

壁、烟囱状的垂直杯口，出自于侍酒大师

vertical chimney were designed by mas-

can’t make bad wine taste great, Bacca-

和葡萄酒权威 Bruno Quenioux 的精雕细琢，

ter sommelier and wine authority Bruno

rat’s inspired new wine glass can make

任何酒款的魅惑芬芳因而表露无遗。巴卡

Quenioux to draw out subtleties, to coax

great wine taste even better.

拉的最新力作得以让美酒佳酿更醇、更香。

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

Photograph courtesy of Baccarat

Baccarat’s new Château Collection fea-

inspired living

复古新时尚

retro modern

Leicht’s timeless kitchens combine modern aesthetics and retro styling

Retro forms and colors have been enjoy-

复古风格与色系近年再度席卷全球设

ing a renaissance in the design world.

计圈。德国奢华厨房品牌 Leicht 正是

Among luxury kitchen designers, Leicht is

其中引领风骚的佼佼者，揉合复古色

leading the way, combining retro colors

调与摩登设计，开创绝美风华及极致

with modern designs to create kitchens

格调兼具的经典厨房。 Leicht 今年推

of timeless beauty and style. This year,

出三个全新色系，宛若带领消费者重

the German company has introduced

回 50、60 及 70 年代：石油（活力蓝）、

three new colors which hark back to the

番红花（暖亮橘）及姜黄（陈稳的芥

fifties, sixties and seventies: petrol (an

末色，如图）。 Leicht 以其尊爵品质、

energizing blue), saffron (a warm, matt

简洁而前卫的设计经年傲视业界，这

orange) and curcuma (a serene mus-

次透过风格别具与令人舒畅的色系，

tard hue, pictured here). Long known

让厨房成为每个家庭的「心」之所在。

for su perior quality, clean forms and cutting-edge design, Leicht uses carefulwelcoming colors to turn a kitchen into the true heart of any home.

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

Photographs courtesy of Leicht

ly considered splashes of these special,

november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

tasting news

Peak Café Bar

佳节纷至欢庆气氛浓

As temperatures begin to dip and the

随着天气开始转凉，年末各大节日的脚步

winter holidays approach, there is one

也逐渐接近，冬日里来上一杯暖呼呼的「香

drink that captures the spirit of the

料酒 (mulled wine)」再适合不过了。港

season better than any other: mulled

中环 Soho 区的山顶餐厅 Peak Café Bar

wine. Beginning in November, the Peak

十一月起将供应这款味道满点与浓浓节日

Café Bar in Soho will be serving its

气氛相得益彰的特制香料酒。

delicious rendition of this classic holiday beverage.

香料酒在德国称为 Glüwhein，在北欧光是名称就有 gløgg、glögg 及 glögi 等数

Especially popular in northern

种，受欢迎的程度可见一斑。在英国，香

Europe, mulled wine is called Glüwhein

料酒更是因为在文豪狄更斯知名小说「小

in Germany and gløgg , glögg or glögi

气财神」内多次提及而奠定特殊地位，成

in the Nordic countries. In England, the

为岁末年终不可或缺的传统酒品。

drink’s status as an essential holiday

山顶餐厅的特制香料酒揉合红酒、白

tradition was helped along by the drink’s

兰地、水果、肉桂及丁香等多种香味而

appearance in Charles Dickens’ famous

成。趁热喝下 , 口感微辣 , 打从心里暖起

tale, A Christmas Carol.

来 , 浓郁的欢庆氛围令人雀跃。如果要以

The Peak Café Bar’s version is prepared with an aromatic blend of red

一种酒来形容年末佳节 , 那绝对非香料酒

Served warm, it is a spicy, festive, heartcheering drink. If the holidays were a liquid, they would be mulled wine – drink and be merry! | TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

The taste of the holidays 岁末节庆的滋味

莫属 - 喝了令人欢乐无穷。

wine, brandy, fruit, cinnamon and cloves.

Photographs courtesy of Peak Café Bar

’Tis the Season

/dining/peakcafebar

Peak Café Bar G/F,

9-13 Shelley Street, Soho, Central, Hong Kong 中環蘇豪些利街 9-13 號地下 Bars and Lounges 11:00 - 2:00 Mon – Fri; 9:00 - 2:00 Sat; 9:00 – 00:00 Sun & PH HKD 100-300 A Smart Causal q +852 2140 6877

november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

Grilled Australian lobster with sea urchin sauce 澳洲烤龙虾佐以海胆酱

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

精彩时刻源于炉火纯青的手艺

Years of Experience, Moments of Delight Very few chefs master the art of Japanese kaiseki . Mizumi’s Chef Hiroshi Kagata is one of them. Since becoming the new Chef de Cuisine at Wynn Macau’s signature Japanese restaurant earlier this year, Chef Hiro has been preparing a monthly kaiseki menu. “Kaiseki courses are made up of small, artfully presented dishes that complement each other to produce a well-balanced harmony of taste,” says Chef Hiro. The dishes, always seasonal, are masterfully crafted to balance taste, texture and presentation. Chef Hiro has nearly three decades of experience in the kitchen, including a stint at Kyoto’s 300-year-old Gion Toriimoto Restaurant, where laborintensive old-world techniques are still

Mizumi at Wynn Macau

standard. The Kyoto style, says Chef Hiro,

永利澳门「泓」日本料理

is traditional and simple, and focuses on optimizing flavor and creating an elegant

精通怀石料理的厨师犹如凤毛麟角，澳门

「泓」除了怀石料理，尚有多种令人垂

experience.

永利酒店首屈一指的「泓」日本餐厅主厨

涎的美食值得一探究竟：肉色红润、入口

“I enjoy working with Kyoto-style

加贺田浩正是其中的佼佼者。他于今年初

即化的喜知次鱼，每周两次由日本新鲜直

light sauces and Japanese herbs such

入主「泓」之后，每月推出精心准备的怀

送；主厨特制炙烧龙虾佐海胆酱汁、味道

as yuzu, kinome, oba, myoga, wasabi,

石套餐。

绝妙的寿司及新鲜满点的生鱼片、铁板烧

sudachi and others,” he says. “Each

他说：「怀石料理由多道精致小巧的菜

以及原汁原味的日式炉端烧。

ingredient has a wonderfully seasonal

式组成，相互映衬，交织而成的美味需拿

quality and flavor.”

捏精巧。」怀石料理以时令菜色为主，精

料理厨艺。加贺主厨多年炉火纯青的功夫，

雕细琢之下，不论是味道、份量及整体呈

淬练出的是让造访「泓」的饕客们心满意

现均恰到好处。

足、一尝难忘的美味时刻。

In addition to the kaiseki, there are many other delicious reasons to plan a meal at Mizumi: the red and amazingly tender kinki fish, flown in fresh from

加贺田浩厨师的专业生涯将近三十年，

Japan twice weekly; Chef Hiro’s grilled

曾于一家有三百多年历史的京都料理餐厅「祇园鸟居本」内工作，在严格承袭传统

lobster served with sea urchin sauce;

的环境下历练多年。加贺介绍京都风格崇

extraordinary sushi and fresh sashimi;

尚传统，一切简单至上，旨在烘托食材原

teppanyaki; and authentic robatayaki.

本的美味，营造雅致的用餐体验。

It takes years to master traditional

不经多年努力则无法造就绝佳的日本

他说：「我特别喜欢京都风味淡雅的酱

Japanese cooking techniques – years of

汁，使用柚子、木芽、紫苏叶、茗荷、芥

experience that Chef Hiro translates into

末及酢橘等各种日本当地的野菜时蔬。每

moments of delight and pleasure for his

款当令食材都有令人难忘的季节特性和美

customers at Mizumi.

妙滋味。」

Mizumi「泓」日本料理 Wynn

Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE 永利酒店外港填海區仙德麗街 5 Japanese q +853 8986 3663 17:30–23:30 Wed–Mon MOP 1,250 +10% service charge A Casual Elegant /dining/mizumi

november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

sponsored feature

Over the years, branches have opened up all over the world, in Los Angeles, Singapore, Manila, Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Bali, Hong Kong and Macau. At StarWorld Hotel, Inagiku Chef de Cuisine Lee Ging Wa Weng is the expert tempura maker. Born and raised in Hong Kong, Weng was a youngster when he developed a fascination with Japanese cuisine. As an apprentice, he began by washing rice and cutting vegetables, and then worked his way through every step of training to become a Japanese chef. He has been cooking for 27 years, and it’s clear that he still has the same dedication, drive and attention to detail for which Japanese chefs are famous. “I learned all the basics from a Japanese

Inagiku at StarWorld Hotel 稻菊於澳门星际酒店

chef,” says Chef Weng. “My skills are truly Japanese.” The secret to Inagiku’s famous tempura, says Weng, lies in the oil. At Inagiku, rather than using plain canola oil, they use supreme grade Nagano white sesame oil, refined by a traditional process of pressing and filtering called tamashibori. The batter,

sake pairing Paired with Chef Weng’s Sashimi Platter Otokoyama Jumai Daiginjo 清酒

男山純米大吟釀

Nothing goes into this magnificent sake from Hokkaido’s Otokoyama (Man’s Mountain) brewery but pure well water, polished rice, and koji, the alchemical mold that ferments the rice and makes sake possible. The resulting elixir presents a seductive nose, runs like liquid velvet on the tongue and delivers a harmonious medley of rice, sweet potato and melon flavors. No distilled alcohol is added. A little added alcohol isn’t necessarily a bad thing – in very fine sakes, it functions like the alcohol in perfumes, helping to set free the complex aromas of the liquid. Nevertheless, there is something profoundly satisfying about the purity of this sake. The clean taste and crisp finish are perfect with sashimi. Dishes with stronger flavors might overpower the subtle effects, but, really, there’s never a wrong time to drink something this good. 北海道清酒「男山」酿制过程除了顶级纯井水、精白米以及制作清酒不可或缺、让白米发酵的「麴菌」外 , 其他一概不加。酿制完成的清酒 , 清香扑鼻而来 , 丝绒般的口感滑过舌尖 , 带出白米、地瓜及密瓜三种味道的完美结合 , 其中不加一滴蒸馏酒精。其实顶级清酒加一点也无妨 , 就像在香水里加入酒精一般 , 可以让多种味道混和的香味完全释放。不过，男山清酒口感的确纯粹 , 带给人极大的满足感。甘纯的口感及爽口的后味可说是生鱼片的绝配 , 搭配其他味道较重的餐点可能就尝不出如此细微的口感。不过话说回来 , 这么棒的酒不管什么时候喝 , 都是一大享受。

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

made from cold water and wheat flour, is mixed with chopsticks for only a few seconds, keeping it light and fluffy. Vegetables and seafood are dipped in the batter, giving them a thin, almost transparent coating, before being dropped, one at a time, into the hot oil, which must be kept at exactly 350° F. The frying must be precisely timed to avoid the limp blandness that results from undercooking and the loss of flavor and texture that comes with overcooking. It’s a delicate process that demands meticulous attention to detail. Dip the best ingredients in carefully prepared batter, fry them in top-quality oil at just the right temperature, for exactly the right amount of time, and the result is crisp, golden, heaven-sent tempura. Weng explains that the first rule for eating tempura is to enjoy it while it’s piping hot. The second rule is to avoid the dashi-mirin-soy dipping sauce which can make the batter soft and mushy. Instead, stick solely to freshly squeezed lemon juice and salt flakes, which help the true flavors of the seafood and vegetables to shine. Following his advice, you dip each piece into the lemon juice and sprinkle it with salt. Each bite is warm and crackly – beneath the exterior of light-as-air batter, the vegetables are vibrant and crunchy, the shrimp plump, sweet, and juicy. Tempura fanatics say you haven’t had the real thing until you’ve eaten at Inagiku. After you’ve tried Chef Weng’s mouthwatering offerings, it’s likely that you’ll agree – there is no substitute.

Handmade tofu, garnished with ginger, pine needles and a chrysanthemum 手工制作的豆腐以姜，松针和菊花点缀

学徒开始，洗米切菜练基本功，27 年来一步一脚印，同時处处可见身为日本料理师傅向来的全神贯注、对於细节锱铢必较的精神。「我的基本功都是向日本师傅学的，技术百分之百纯日式。」主厨说稻菊威名远播的天妇罗，个中诀窍就在炸油。稻菊不使用一般的芥花油，而是日本长野县所产，坚持遵循古法酿造的顶级白芝麻油。该酿法称为「tamashibori ( 玉绞り )」，为经过挤压及过滤等程序的传统酿造方式。稻菊的炸粉则是由冷水及小麦粉混和而成，用筷子迅速搅拌数秒，保持轻薄松盈。将各式蔬菜及海鲜轻裹炸粉，附上一

层轻薄近乎透明的面衣，一次一个下锅油炸。油温需维持在华氏 350 度 ( 约摄氏 180 度 )，油炸时间也要绝对控制，避免时间过短食物不熟无味，过久又会失去原味及口感，处理过程中各个细节都需全神贯注，马虎不得。最佳食材裹上精心准备的炸粉，放入最顶级的炸油中，油温一度不差，油炸时间精无误，呈现出来的便是酥脆、色泽金黄的天妇罗。主厨也分享了吃天妇罗的秘诀：第一，起锅后要趁热品尝。第二，舍弃柴鱼高汤、味霖及酱油调製而成的沾酱，沾了只是让面衣又软又烂，在食用前仅需现挤几滴柠檬汁，撒点晶盐，就能带出海鲜及蔬菜的原味。

天妇罗爱好者总说，没去过稻菊就其地位无可取不算吃过真正的天妇罗代。试过荣师傅令人流口水的佳作，你再也同意不过了。

Inagiku 稻菊日本料理 Japanese 5/F, StarWorld Hotel Macau Avenida da Amizade 星際酒店友誼大馬路五樓 q +853 8290 8668 12:00–14:30, 18:00–23:00 A Casual Chic 5

/dining/inagiku

november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

中央舞台领衔主演

center stage Amber’s Richard Ekkebus keeps the spotlight on his ingredients

Chef Ekkebus roasts Wagyu beef over a wood fire and serves it with seasonal greens and Cévennes onions prepared eight different ways. 主厨Ekkebus使用柴火炙烤顶极和牛，搭配季节时蔬及Cévennes甜洋葱八吃。

“Seafood really takes center stage in

my kitchen,” says Amber Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus. “I was born and raised by the sea, fishing and cooking my catch immediately, so the notion of exceptionally fresh ingredients is wired into my hard drive.” Using only the finest and freshest ingredients is a benchmark that Richard has set for himself and his team at Amber, the signature restaurant at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong. “Over time I have become much more product-driven,” says Richard. “I think when you have access to exceptional ingredients you have an obligation to protect the genius of these ingredients, and that is what we are doing on a daily basis. Technique is important as well, but it’s there as a support. It’s never to show off or to impress diners with fancy and complicated cooking skills.” Never compromising on quality has paid off for Amber, which opened seven years ago and has since earned two Michelin stars and become one of Asia’s most celebrated finedining destinations. People come from all over to indulge in Richard’s signature dishes, like his Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster jelly with cauliflower, caviar and crispy seaweed waffles. The combination of land and sea is something Richard says has always intrigued him about Chinese cuisine, and the two meet seamlessly in this dish. “The cauliflower is earthy and sweet and has a complex texture and flavor alongside the sea urchin. The seaweed crackers add a crispy element that contrasts with the creaminess of the dish,” he says. “I think every good dish should have a crispy element.” Dutch-born, trained in France, Richard

Amber 餐饮总监 Richard Ekkebus 表示：「海鲜是我厨房里的主角。在海边出生长大，要吃什么现钓现煮，新鲜至上这四个字一直刻在我脑海中。」 Richard 及团队非最佳、最新鲜的食材不用，也因为对品质的坚持，Amber 成为香港置地文华东方酒店的招牌餐厅。「我一直非常注重食材」，Richard 自我分析 :「既然使用顶级食材 , 自然有义务要保存珍贵的原味精华 , 这也正是我们每天努力的目标。」他强调 :「技术固然重要 , 但应该用之为辅 , 一味炫耀华丽或用繁复的技巧来取悦客人只会喧宾夺主 , 绝对不可取。」 Amber 开业至今七年 , 因对于质量从不妥协 , 现已摘下两颗米其林星 , 跃升为亚洲首屈一指的顶级餐厅之一。各地饕客不远千里而来 , 就为了一尝 Richard 名震四方的各式菜肴。如他的北海道海胆龙虾冻佐椰花菜、鱼子酱及酥炸海藻。这道名菜灵感来自中菜，海陆两大元素搭配的天衣无缝。他自豪地说道 :「椰花菜带有土壤的甜味 , 与海胆多层次的口感相得益彰 , 而炸海藻的酥脆刚好又与这道菜的奶油口感形成对比。我觉得每道好菜都必需有酥脆口感的搭配。」 Richard 在荷兰出生 , 于法国接受专业训练 , 现在长居香港 , 使用的都是邻近农场直送的顶级新鲜食材。他说 :「我们用了许多日式食材 , 但烹饪技巧及每道菜的味道可都是原汁原味的法式风格。」香港各方文化荟萃 , 在此生活及工作 , 反倒让 Richard 想念家乡的味道。从小在祖父母的餐厅长大 , 注定从此要踏上厨师一途。他说「: 香港的美食很专注 , 不论是以味道或是口感为重 , 关键都在料理本身。现在我觉得我的菜也更讲究突出精髓。」「与其用一些时下流行的新兴作法，我倒喜欢尝试用传统方式将味道提升到不

“You have an obligation to protect the genius of your ingredients. 厨师有义务保存食材原味的精华。”

上：北海道海胆龙虾冻佐鱼子酱及金箔;下:搭配和牛的cévennes甜洋葱八食,或以醋渍、或煎成酥球、或入刺山柑酱 ,又或拌入芥末籽酱；下：搭配和牛的Cévennes甜洋葱，或以醋渍、和入面团煎煮、混和果酱佐刺山柑，又或沾浸带籽芥末酱，风味各不相同

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now takes advantage of Hong Kong’s crossroads location to source the most exceptional fresh ingredients from the region. “We work with a lot of Japanese ingredients but our techniques and flavor profile are definitely 100 percent French.” Living and working in this cultural crossroads has inspired Richard to get back to his roots, where a childhood spent in his grandparents’ restaurant prepared him for a life in the kitchen. “Hong Kong food is very focused. It’s all about the essence of the dish, whether that is taste-driven or texturally-driven. So I think my food has become much more focused since I’ve been here.” “Now I look at how I can enhance the flavor of what I’m cooking, using more traditional methods instead of what is fashionable. I love to roast over a wood fire – it brings an element of extreme heat and an intense smoky flavor, which can really change the dynamics of a dish.” A perfect example is his Wagyu beef from Japan, cooked over low heat so the richly marbled fat is not lost, and then caramelized over the open wood fire. “When you braise and roast you have two totally different textures and I like that playfulness in a dish,” Richard says. He serves the meltingly tender meat with delicately flavored sweet Cévennes onions from France, prepared eight different ways. Richard believes that perseverance and consistency are the qualities that make a restaurant successful. “You have to hold on to your principles and stay loyal to what you feel the restaurant is known for.” But he doesn’t let that pressure weigh him down. “I create my own pressure. It’s not a guide or a list that motivates me. The drive within myself is the only thing I need to reckon with every day.” Learn more about San Pellegrino at www.jebsenfinewines.com.

同层次。我喜欢烧柴火来炙烤－透过极高温及浓烈烟熏味道可让料理脱胎换骨。」 Richard 拿手的和牛料理便是最佳证明，先用低温煎过保留丰富油花，后以柴火炙烤至表面焦亮金黄。他分析：「文火炖与炙烤出来的口感截然不同，我喜欢在单一道菜里融合多种玩法。」入口即化的顶极和牛搭配以八种方式调制，滋味丰富的法国 Cévennes 甜洋葱一起享用，可谓绝配。 Richard 深信坚持品质及长期维持高水平是餐厅生意兴隆的不二法则。「一定要坚持原则，为餐厅的品质把关。」他并没有因此而被压的喘不过气。 Richard 强调：「美食指南或餐厅排行不是我的目标。我会给自己压力 , 每天达到自己订的标准才是我必修的功课。」

Amber

Amber Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus

/dining/amber

French Contemporary The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 中環皇后大道中 15 號置地廣場置地文華東方酒店 7 樓 Lunch: 12:00–14:30 Mon-Fri, 12:00–14:00 Sat-Sun & PH, Dinner: 18:30–22:30 Mon-Sun & PH HKD 500+ A Smart Casual q +852 2132 0066 5

7/F

Upper left: Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster jelly, topped with caviar and edible gold flakes; lower left: the Cévennes onions served with the Wagyu beef are variously pickled in vinegar, cooked in bread dough, mixed in marmalade with capers, and doused with grain mustard.

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The exalted alba madonna For many chefs and diners, the autumn appearance of the white truffle, or Alba Madonna, is the highest of high points on the culinary calendar The world’s most seductive ingredient is a lumpy subterranean fungus. In appearance homely at best, the white truffle doesn’t win any beauty pageants. But it does inspire passion, and devotion. What the white truffle lacks in looks it makes up for with character—with delicate, unforgettable flavor, and a fragrance that is just about as impossible to describe as it is to resist. Struggling to characterize the extraordinary aroma of the white truffle, people sometimes resort to words that sound more like warnings than endorsements: Intense. Earthy, garlicky. Pungent. Arrogant. Like cabbage on steroids. Chef Umberto Bombana of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana tells a story about a dishwasher he worked with in Italy who, after becoming anxious about a dangerous gas leak in the kitchen, was prepared to evacuate the restaurant—but no, that wasn’t necessary, he was just smelling the truffles. “It’s a very strong, powerful smell,” says Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Exécutif of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. “But the taste is different from the smell. The taste for me is smoother, very unique. I think sometimes the smell can be a little bit overpowering but the taste actually makes the balance.” A first sniff makes some people tentative. But after they’ve had a truffle experience, after they’ve surrendered, people begin to experience that strong scent as a kind of siren call. And then they start expressing their ardency with adjectives like these: Mouthwatering. Beguiling. Sublime.

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Such is the potency of the white truffle that just a few flakes shaved onto a simple dish of egg or buttered pasta is enough to transform it into a masterpiece of aroma and flavor. Because cooking diminishes the aroma, chefs usually prefer to shave the raw truffle directly onto a dish. With a truffle dish, says Chef Bombana, the goal is to create “a good platform for the truffle to dominate and exalt itself.” “We can’t play too much with the white truffle,” says Guillaume Gaillot, Chef de Cuisine of The Tasting Room. “To get the best of it, stay simple.” Chef Elzer agrees: “The most important thing is to respect the truffles.” The best white truffles come from the forests of Piedmont, near the town of Alba in northern Italy, where the red soil and rainy summers make for perfect growing conditions. In August, the truffles begin growing underground, among the roots of various hardwood trees. When they are ripe, at some point from October to December, trained dogs can smell them under the soil. Chemists and cultivators have tried, but so far nobody has been able to duplicate the magic of the wild white Alba truffles. Limited availability and high demand have made them one of the world’s most expensive ingredients. This season, a kilogram of white truffles is selling for around HKD 45,000. No other seasonal ingredient is as highly anticipated. “There is nothing else like truffles,” says Chef Bombana. “With each truffle season, you know another year has passed.”

超群绝伦白松露对大多数西餐大厨及饕客们来说，白松露之后 Alba Madonna 出现的秋季，是美食日历中至高无上、万众期待的一个季节。

这款生长于地下的块状真菌其貌不扬，却是全球最诱人的食材之一，且外表越普通越好。白松露虽然貌不惊人，却能令人为之狂热、心生向往：其细腻的滋味一尝难忘，香气浓郁，魅力诱人难挡。白松露独特的香气言语难以形容，令饕客伤透脑筋都找不到合适的词汇，形容时，不仅听起来没有加分，还常叫人望而生畏：浓烈、土质、大蒜味、呛鼻及霸道，根本像是在形容打了类固醇的卷心菜。8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 意大利餐厅主厨 Umberto Bombana 在此也分享了一则小故事，曾有位意大利的洗碗工工作到一半乍闻大量瓦斯的气味，大为慌张立刻准备逃命 —— 不过却是场小小的误会，原来那是松露的味道。法式餐厅 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 行政主厨 Olivier Elzer 就形容：「那是很浓、很强烈的气味，不过吃下去的滋味与闻起来的又完全不同，非常滑顺、独一无二。有时气味或许过重，但一尝味道后便又觉得搭配得恰到好处。」第一次闻到松露的香气可能会让有些人犹豫，可是一旦品尝过松露的滋味后，便会拜倒在其美妙的滋味下，而强烈的香气反倒变成一种难以抗拒的呼唤。食客如此形容对松露爱不释手的程度：垂涎三尺、心醉神迷、超群绝伦！简单的蛋奶意大利面只要缀上数片白松露

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薄片，立即变身为一道香气扑鼻及美味满分的佳肴。松露香气在烹饪过程中容易消散，因此厨师偏好起锅后铺上数片现削松露即可。主厨 Bombana 点出松露餐制作之要诀，在于创造出「能让松露领衔主演、发光发热的舞台」。 The Tasting Room 御膳房行政主厨 Guillaume Gaillot 表示：「使用白松露不用玩花招，要让美味发挥到极致的不二法则就是一切从简。」主厨 Elzer 也异口同声说道：「尊重松露的原味才是关键所在。」意大利北部小镇 Alba 附近的 Piedmont 森林出产全球品质最佳的白松露之后 Alba Madonna，当地的红土及夏季多雨正是白松露的最佳温床。每年八月，松露于地下成形，错落分布于多种硬木树种的树根之间，约在十月至十二月间长成，所在位置需仰赖训练有素的松露犬灵敏的嗅觉才能找到。化学及农育专家多年来想方设法，仍是无法以人工培育出可以比拟野生白松露的育种。数量稀少，市场需求极高，让白松露堂而皇之成为全球最昂贵的食材之一。今年的松露季又到了，一公斤白松露售价便高达港币四万五千元，耀眼程度令其他当季食材瞠乎其后。主厨 Bombana 便赞叹：「松露是独一无二的。每每迎接松露季的到来，就代表着在满心期待下又度过了一年。」

Chef Umberto Bombana’s “Egg Al Piatto” with burrata, mushroom, and white truffle 主厨Umberto Bombana的「Egg Al Piatto」煎蛋巧妙搭配 burrata起司、蘑菇及白松露

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The Alba white truffle – rare, fragrant, coveted, loved, and inimitable. 阿尔巴白松露之后－珍贵，香浓，集万千宠爱于一身，无法人工培植

“I always recommend to my team to use two or three truffles. It’s nice to start shaving with one and then pick another one. Because all the truffles taste a little bit different. This one can be stronger than that one. So I think it’s interesting to give you a little taste of each.” “我总建议我的厨师们一次使用两到三颗松露。一颗用完再用另外一颗。每颗松露的味道都有些微不同,有的较浓、有的较淡。让客人尝试其中微妙的区别。”

Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Exécutif of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Alba white truffle on “ratte” potato and foie gras rolls salad, garnished with pink and black radishes and edible flowers Alba白松露之后伴鹅肝卷配小黑萝卜及可食用的鲜花瓣沙津

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“You have to be creative while respecting the simplicity. It’s not ‘I put this, I put that ... oh I’m a genius.’ You have to truly understand the product and you have to respect the product. Because I think the truffle is the real actor. You cannot kill the ingredient. To be creative, you have to do it in a way that leaves the truffle aroma. Don’t cover the aroma. And usually simple is the best.”

“一切必须简单至上，同时又要巧思独具。东摆一块，西放一条，人人就都能成为天才厨师了吗？可没这么容易，一定要百分之百掌握食材，尊重食材。松露就是舞台的主角，不好好使用就太浪费了。一定要发挥创意，保留而非掩盖了松露的香气。简单通常就是美味的不二法门。”

Chef Umberto Bombana of Hong Kong’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Porcini mushroom risotto with aromatic Piedmont cheese, parsley, and white truffle Porcini牛肝菌菇炖饭，搭配香气四溢的Piedmont起司、巴西里及白松露

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“If you cook the white truffle, all the flavor will disappear. The best for the white really is to add it last minute on top of your dish. You can get creative with the ingredients underneath and with the seasonings and the sauce.” “煮过的白松露会香味全失,最好在起锅前的一刻再加入, 才能保持香气与滋味。陪村食材、调味及酱汁可以发挥巧思，创意搭配。”

Guillaume Gaillot, Chef de Cuisine of The Tasting Room Ravioli of soumaintrain cheese and hazelnut with artichoke velouté sauce and shimeji mushrooms, topped with artichoke chips and white truffle Soumaintrain起司及榛果意大利饺佐洋蓟奶油酱配茶树菇,缀以朝鲜蓟脆薄片及白松露

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Salmon A S Tways ING 40 | Tsix

KITCHEN |

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tasting notes

无懈可击的北欧美味

fantastic northern flavors The Nordic cuisine at FINDS makes for one of Hong Kong’s most interesting menus

all chefs remember the dish that stopped them in their tracks and made them fall in love with food. For Jaakko Sorsa, Executive Chef at FINDS in Hong Kong, it was his Grandmother Ida’s meatballs. “Her meatballs tasted so much better than everyone else’s. I was a very picky eater but her dishes I adored.” Ida’s meatball recipe has now been incorporated into Chef Jaakko’s menu at his restaurant FINDS in Tsim Sha Tsui’s Luxe Manor. Jaakko is Finnish, and the name of

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tasting notes

“ People in Hong Kong are very adventurous when it comes to food.” “ 香港人喜欢鲜，尤其是美食，总是一马当先。他们很爱北欧菜。”

Seared scallops served with artichoke risotto, roasted gold root, and rocket puree 煎扇贝佐洋蓟炖饭、烤金根及芝麻菜泥

the restaurant is an acronym that honors the Scandinavian origins of the food—Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden. “Here’s a great dish to introduce you to Nordic tastes,” says Jaakko. “Salmon six ways.” Salmon any way is a treat. Six ways all at once is joy on a plate. If you tend towards indecision, if the six tantalizing, intriguingly varied options make it hard to know where to start, be assured: you can’t go wrong. There’s cold-smoked, a mousse, pickled, gravad lax, roe, and a piece seared with peppercorn and fennel. Each one is lovely and interesting in its own way, and to eat them all, one after the next, amounts to a kind of salmon seminar, a demonstration of all the different flavors and effects a talented chef can summon from a single ingredient. “Cooking with salmon is like cooking

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with tomatoes or potatoes,” says Jaakko. “It’s such a versatile ingredient that you can use it for practically anything.” And he does: there are 18 different salmon dishes on Jaakko’s menu. “At home, everything follows the seasons. We gather and prepare natural products from the land. My childhood summers were spent on my grandmother’s island in the Lakeland—fishing, curing and smoking the fish, and picking mushrooms from the forest.” By keeping a careful eye on what nature has to offer, cooking seasonally, and updating age-old Nordic dishes, Jaakko has created one of the most interesting menus in Hong Kong. Great Nordic flavors rule here: North Sea mussels, Danish herring, ‘Finn’ fries, Greenland shrimp—even smoked reindeer from Lapland. Jaakko says

it’s a surprisingly popular dish on the menu. “People in Hong Kong are very adventurous when it comes to food,” he says. Fresh root vegetables are among Jaakko’s favorite ingredients. “I love artichokes,” he says. ”They have such a sweet, deep richness that adds a real earthiness to a dish.” He puts his into a creamy risotto and serves it with roasted gold root and seared scallops with hazelnut butter. The scallops, along with all the seafood on the menu, have been sustainably sourced. In 2011, FINDS became the first Western-cuisine restaurant in Hong Kong to join the WWF’s Ocean-Friendly Menu Program. “We’re small but loud protectors of the sea,” Jaakko says proudly. “We fully support ethical sourcing practices and we use nothing on the WWF’s red list.” To make dessert, Jaakko upends a large dish of yellow berries into a pot with sugar and water. “Buckthorn berries,” he says. “They grow wild on the islands in Finland. Full of sea minerals and very good for you. Strong, tart flavor. But it takes skill to cook with them.” Jaakko transforms the berries into gelatinous little yellow cubes with an acidic bite. They make a perfect accompaniment to his sweet, white chocolate parfait. Jaakko’s fantastic Nordic flavors come straight at you, clean and clear. No matter what the dish is, you always feel he is helping you discover something basic and true about each ingredient. Eating his food is to be transported away from subtropical Hong Kong to a northern land of pine forests and cold water lakes, of salmon and root vegetables and buckthorn berries. It’s a very satisfying trip to take.

tasting notes Wine Pairing Linie Aquavit 利尼阿誇維特燒酒 Norwegian Linie aquavit is a strong, dry liquor, distilled from fermented potatoes and flavored with caraway, aniseed and other herbs. Linie is the Norwegian word for line and this aquavit is famously aged on ships that travel from Europe to Australia and back, twice crossing the equatorial line. Stored in oak casks previously used for sherry, the aquavit follows the motion of the waves, and, over time, is imbued with a warm golden color and the mellow flavors of oak and sherry. At FINDS, the aquavit is served in chilled cups carved from Finnish stone. It pairs perfectly with Chef Jaakko’s smoked salmon. 挪威产的利尼阿夸维特烧酒浓烈芬芳，含糖量低，由马铃薯发酵后蒸馏，并加入葛缕子丶洋茴香及其他多种香草酿制而成。利尼 (Linie) 在挪威语中发音接近「航线」，而此款阿夸维特烧酒的陈酿正是在往返欧洲及澳洲的船上完成，因两次横跨赤道线而闻名于世。陈酿中的阿夸维特与各式香草被放置于原本用来储放雪利酒的橡木酒桶中，乘风踏浪，长时间下来酝出的酒色呈温暖的金黄，味道芳醇带有橡树及雪利酒香。「FINDS」餐厅里，阿夸维特烧酒被倒入冰冻过的芬兰石刻酒杯里饮用，再搭配加寇 • 索沙主厨的特制熏鲑鱼，可说是人生一大享受。

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CHEF PROFILE

Jaakko Sorsa Executive Chef at FINDS, Hong Kong

如果能一窥您家里的冰箱，最有可能找到些什么？我的芥末收藏－我收集了世界各地大约 15 种的芥末。我家冰箱前身其实就是 FINDS 的香槟冷藏箱。我家里没有冰冻箱，只买新鲜的食材 , 然后马上加以烹调。

If we peeked in your home refrigerator, what would we find? My mustard collection—I have about fifteen mustards from all around the world. My home fridge is actually an old champagne fridge from FINDS. I don’t have a freezer at home, I just buy things fresh and use everything right away.

哪三样食材是您的厨房里最不能或缺的？烟熏桶丶用来准备高汤的 100 公升大蒸汽锅

What are the top three things you can’t work without in the kitchen? A smoking bin. A 100-liter braising steam pot to prepare stocks. And a gravad lax knife.

以及切熏鲑鱼的专用刀。假如您参加厨神比赛，以什么食材为主题对您来说最有信心？鲑鱼。

If you competed in Iron Chef, which “theme ingredient” competition would you never lose? Salmon. What qualities do you need to become a good chef? You must never take shortcuts. Be patient, try again and again, and always improve yourself. Keep yourself challenged and keep learning. What was your worst kitchen disaster? It happened when I was the head chef at a big seafood restaurant at the Fairmont in Bermuda. The hotel was full, but a hurricane kept the planes full of ingredients from arriving from the US. It’s amazing what you can come up with when you have to. Tell us about the most interesting meal you’ve ever cooked. For whom and where? In February 2011, I was invited to prepare a modern Finnish dinner for Princess Takamado in Tokyo. I chose local ingredients, meat and vegetables and seafood from the Tsujiki fishmarket, and prepared it all the Nordic way, like amaebi shrimps cold-smoked with Finnish wood. How would you describe your cooking philosophy? Clean and honest flavors.

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november 2012

您认为要成为一位出色的厨师最重要的素质是什么？绝对不要挑捷径丶要有耐心丶一试再试，持续提升自己的厨艺。不断给自己挑战，永远虚心学习。 What was your best culinary experience? New ones happen all the time. Before coming to Asia, my best experience was probably my first visit to Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco. But then, a few years ago, I discovered Yunnan cuisine for the first time and that was another great experience. What is your opinion of organic products? Nowadays organic food is sold in designer malls in fancy packaging. It has become the food of the elite. It’s too expensive. It should be a human right to enjoy clean food, just like it used to be a few decades ago, when most food was organic. How were you inspired to become a chef? While watching my grandmother cook, I started to wonder: Why does her food taste so much better than other people’s food? I started to pay attention to small techniques, like how she built the base for stews and soups. It’s all about attention to details and taking care of the ingredients—that’s what elevates good cooking to great cooking.

作为国际知名大厨，您经历过最糟糕的场面是什么？以前在百慕达费尔蒙一家大型海鲜餐厅担任总厨时，有件让我记忆深刻的事。当时酒店订房全满，但运送食材的飞机却因飓风困在美国。不过也是在这种毫无后路的时候，才能激发出人的潜能，真的很神奇。您最有趣的烹饪经历是什么？ 2011 年 2 月我获邀到东京为宪仁亲王妃久子呈献当代芬兰菜。我以北欧料理的方式烹调了日本当地的食材丶肉丶蔬菜以及筑地市场采买的海鲜，比如用芬兰木冷熏的日本甜虾等菜色。能与我们分享一下您的烹饪哲学吗？简单清新丶保留食材原始风味。您最好的美食体验是哪一次？一直都有新的最好体验。来亚洲前，最棒的一次是在法国当代名厨艾伦 · 杜卡斯 (Alain Ducasse) 于摩洛哥的路易十五餐厅 (Louis XV)。但几年后，我首次尝到云南菜，非常惊艳，算又一次的绝佳体验。

tasting notes

Small cubes of tart buckthorn berry jelly accent blocks of creamy white chocolate parfait. 白巧克力芭菲缀酸酸的浆果果冻，小巧易食

每个大厨的记忆中都有一道让他们回味再三并从此爱上美食的料理。对於香港「FINDS」北欧餐厅主厨加寇 • 索沙 (Jaakko Sorsa) 来说，他最喜欢的菜肴就是祖母义妲的肉丸子。「祖母的肉丸子就是比别人家的好吃，真的没法比。我的嘴巴很挑剔，但她做的菜总让我大呼过瘾。」理所当然，索沙亦使祖母的肉丸成为了 FINDS 的招牌菜色之一。索沙出身於芬兰，他的餐厅位於香港蒂乐文娜公馆酒店 (Tsim Sha Tsui’s Luxe Manor)， FINDS 五个字母由北欧芬兰 (Finland) 丶冰岛 (Iceland) 丶挪威 (Norway) 丶丹麦 (Denmark) 及瑞典 (Sweden) 五国字首组合而成，彰显的正是北欧斯堪地纳维亚半岛正统的风味料理。索沙向我介绍：「要品尝北欧料理可以从这道『鲑鱼六吃』开始。」其实鲑鱼（又称三文鱼）怎么烹调我都爱吃，更不用说是六吃，真可说是一大享受。如果你不知道如何选菜，或者如果一鱼六吃让你觉得不知该从何下手，千万不要担心：这道料理绝对不会错！只见精美如画的盘中有烟熏式丶做

成慕丝的丶用醋腌制的丶盐渍的鲑鱼片，晶莹的鲑鱼籽酱以及加入胡椒粒和茴香的煎鲑鱼片，看上去赏心悦目，风味独具。能够一次尝尽六种不同美味，简直有如鲑鱼大观一般，叫人满足不已，同时也展现主厨妙手生花般的厨艺，单一食材也能尽显其各种不同风格与滋味。谈到鲑鱼，索沙表示：「鲑鱼风貌多元，就像蕃茄或马铃薯一样，任何烹饪方式都能入菜。」他的确所言非虚，「FINDS」菜单上有多达 18 种不同的鲑鱼料理！「在我家乡，一切都跟着四季时令走，我们会在各个季节摘采不同的天然食材。记得小时候的夏天都会在祖母位於湖泊区的小岛家中度过，要么钓鱼丶腌鱼或熏鱼，要么到森林去采磨菇。」也就是如此，索沙坚持挑选大自然赋予的新鲜食材丶烹调时令蔬果，并将历史悠久的北欧菜色加以创新，造就出全香港最有趣的菜色之一。全北欧风味料理飨宴就在 FINDS ：北海淡菜丶丹麦鲱鱼丶芬兰薯条丶格陵兰虾，甚至是拉普兰烟熏麋鹿肉也名列其中。香港饕客对北欧菜的回响之大，也让索沙惊喜不已。

他说：「香港人勇于尝鲜，尤其是美食，总是一马当先。他们很爱北欧菜。」新鲜冬季根茎类蔬菜是索沙最爱的食材之一。他说：「我很喜欢洋蓟，味道非常丰富，略带甜味，还可以为料理添加一些大地的味道。」他把洋蓟放入奶油味十足的炖饭中，加上烤金根 ( 红景天 ) 及香煎扇贝，缀以榛果牛油，这又是一道风味佳肴。扇贝以及菜单上所有的海鲜都是以尊重海洋永续生态的方式捕捞而来。FINDS 也在 2011 年，领先香港所有西式餐厅，加入世界自然基金会 (WWF) 的海洋永续生态友善菜单计划。索沙自豪地表示：「我们虽然是家小餐厅，但是会高调提倡保护海洋生态的重要性。我们百分百支持永续捕捞，名列基金会红色名单的食材我们一律不用。」接下来要制作点心，索沙准备了装好水及糖的锅子，倒入一大盘金色浆果。他说：「这种莓果在芬兰各岛上俯拾即有，内涵海洋矿物质，对人体极有益处。味涩而浓，要做成甜点可就需要一点技巧了。」索沙将煮过的浆果冷却后做成酸酸的黄色方形果冻，与香甜的白巧克力芭菲形成绝配。索沙美妙的北欧料理直接而清纯。不管眼前端上来的是什么菜色，索沙似乎都能让宾客感受每种食材最真实的原味。享受他的料理让我感觉如远离亚热带的香港，置身於松树及冷水湖环绕的北方大地。这是一趟让我心满意足的美食之旅。

Finds Nordic The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 尖沙咀金巴利道 39 號帝樂文娜公館 1 樓 q +852 2522 9318 Mon–Thurs 18:30–00:00 Fri–Sat 18:30–02:00; Sun 18:30–23:00 HKD 300-500 A Casual Chic 1/F

/dining/FINDS

november 2012

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顶级艺术巧克力飨宴

A praline-feathered Na’vi Warrior, Chocolate Kong and other edible wonders

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november 2012

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t’s all edible – every last bit, every

Chapter Pastry Competition. “Realistically,

ear, every finger, feather, flipper

no one really buys a chocolate showpiece.

and spear. These sculptures are made of chocolate – lots of chocolate and pralines

They’re extremely hard to make and to transport.”

and margarine and cocoa butter, along with

Chocolate showpieces are the pastry

lots of expertise, ingenuity and hard work.

world’s equivalent of the audacious designs

Pastry teams spend weeks planning and

seen on haute couture fashion runways. Just

designing. Days tempering, molding, and

as elements of high fashion designs trickle

sculpting. Hours revising and repairing. The

down into ready-to-wear garments, pastry

resulting showpieces are guaranteed to draw

showpiece designs also influence the work

gasps of wonder and admiration.

done in cake shops and confectionary stores. “Any pastry competition is an opportunity

Does anyone actually get to eat these masterpieces? “Sometimes maybe,” says Regis Monges,

to bring techniques to the next level. We don’t make showpieces for the commercial

executive pastry chef of the Grand Hyatt

aspect,” says Regis. “We grow and the

Macau and a judge at the recent Macau 6th

profession grows.”

眼见所及通通都可以吃，耳朵、手指、羽毛、

第六届澳门糕点大赛评审之一，Regis 表示：「艺

脚蹼和长矛，没有不能吃的。这一个个栩栩如

术巧克力做工繁复、搬运困难，不会有人真要

生的雕像全都以巧克力制作－大量的巧克力、

买回家的。」

果仁糖、乳玛琳及可可油，再加上无限创意及

是糕点界前卫大胆设计的试金石。一如高级

糕点团队历经数周设计与安排，多日捏塑、

订制服的时尚元素对成衣设计的影响，艺术

铸型与雕琢，数时的微调及修整，才能成就如

巧克力斧凿的痕迹也可见于一般蛋糕及甜点

此令人屏息且惊艳不已的完美成果。

店中。

真的有人舍得将这些巧夺天工的艺术品吃下肚吗？「还是会啊」，澳门君悦大酒店糕点行政主厨 Regis Monges 笑着说。最近，他获邀担任

艺术巧克力如同伸展台上的高级订制服，

妙手生花的技巧，更需要极大的心力才能完成。

「糕点比赛正是提升技术层次的绝佳机会。我们制作艺术巧克力不为任何商业目的。」 Regis 强调 :「我们希望的是带动整体糕点业界一同成长。」

“Desire” (欲望) by Sands Macao Pastry Sous Chef Poon Ka Tung (潘嘉通)

“Bathing” (沐浴) by City of Dreams’ Sous Chef Lai Chu (黎柱)

“Vogue” (时尚) by Wynn Macau’s Andrew Tan Chu Hap (李永成)

“Instinct and Intuition” 本能与直觉) by Grand Hyatt Macau’s Demi Chef Allan V. Salve (The title page lizard is part of this same showpiece. / 封面蜥蜴正是同作品的一部分)

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november 2012

1 2 3 4

november 2012

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African Avatar” (非洲阿凡达) by Galaxy Macau’s Jaime Punzalan

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november 2012

“Born to Be Wild” (天生狂野) by IFT’s Pastry Artisan Ronald Grindulo Gonzales

november 2012

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november 2012

“Prayer” (祈祷) by The Venetian Macao’s Sun Qing Ye (孙青野)

november 2012

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november 2012

World Class

穿越时空的诱惑

seductive deconstruction China Rouge is one of the sexiest bars in Asia

november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

World Class

Molecular Strawberry Daiquiri 草莓分子德基利雞尾酒 by Roy Kong, China Rouge Bar Manager 红伶吧经理Roy 特制 Zacapa Rum 朗姆酒 Cointreau 君度橙酒 Gomme Syrup 糖浆 Lime 青柠 Strawberry 草莓 Ice 冰块

Pour rum, Cointreau and Gomme syrup into a shaker with ice. Shake well and pour into a Martini glass. Prepare the lime juice foam by whisking with an electric blender. Place the foam on top of the cocktail in the Martini glass. Prepare the strawberry caviar. Serve the caviar with a spoon, apart from the cocktail. Enjoy. 将朗姆酒丶君度橙酒及糖浆倒入摇酒器内，撤底摇均再倒入马提尼酒杯内。用搅拌器把青柠汁制成泡沫，把泡沫放於马提尼酒杯内的鸡尾酒上。准备草莓汁珍珠，可将草莓汁珍珠分开放置。请享用吧 !

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| TASTING KITCHEN |

Live music, top quality drinks, free snacks, great views, and a cigar room. 5 Bar

16/F q +853 8290 8698 17:00–02:00 Mon-Thu & Sun 17:00–03:00 Fri-Sat A Casual Chic

november 2012

A unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau. 以撲克為主題，最具有澳門特色的主題餐廳。 5 International

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Morton‘s The Steakhouse

5 Western

Whisky Bar

Poker Café

The Tasting Room 膳房

Excellent contemporary European cuisine by Chef Guillaume Gaillot: every delicious ingredient on the plate has a sense of purpose. 當代歐陸料理出自主廚 Guillaume Gaillot 之手，任一食材都是不可或缺的完美存在。 5 European Contemporary

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Divino Patio

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佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)˙Fat Siu Lau 2

Century old ClassiC

百年經典葡菜

he history of this famous restaurant spans over four generations and more than a century. Fat Siu Lau opened its first branch in 2006, Fat Siu Lau 2 is situated in the bar street area, next to MGM Grand, with its bright red unique color scheme and huge windows providing enchanting views of the nearby lake. Fat Siu Lau 3, on the other hand, is located in Taipa village near Galaxy Macau with a green European motif. It can cater for private parties up to 100 persons. Menu highlights include perennial favorites like roast pigeon (prepared to a 105-year-old secret recipe), curry crab, African chicken and grilled prawns.

要

數澳門歷史悠久及著名的葡式餐廳，「佛笑樓」應該是當之無愧了。餐廳開業至現在已超過一個世紀，當中經過了四代人的悉心經營。遐邇馳名的燒乳鴿，是佛笑樓的招牌菜，采用祖傳秘方炮制。其他經典菜式有咖喱炒蟹、非洲雞、扒魔鬼大蝦。為了迎合發展，佛笑樓在2006年於酒吧街開了佛笑樓2，裝潢以紅色為主調，可透過玻璃望向海傍景色。而佛笑樓3更位於仔著名的手信及美食街——地堡街，与剛開業的澳門銀河為鄰。餐廳以清新綠色為主調，可舉行多達100人的私人派對。 | TASTING KITCHEN | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2

佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店) Fat Siu Lau 2 Avn. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Edf. Vista Magnifica Court, Macau (Opposite of Kun Ian Statue)

Fat Siu Lau 2 佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)

澳門孫逸仙大馬路帝景苑 (觀音像對面) Tel: (853) 2872 2922

Curry Crab 葡式咖喱蟹

Other branches 其他分店佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau Rua da Felicidade No.64, Macau 澳門褔隆新街64號 Tel: (853) 2857 3580 佛笑樓 3 Fat Siu Lau 3 Rua Do Regedor 181-185 R/C, Taipa 仔地堡街 181-185號地下 Tel: (853) 2882 5257

*新濠天地有免費穿梭巴士直到地堡街

Roast pigeon 燒乳鴿

TK" Where to Find TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

Macau Hotels

Altira Macau 澳門新濠鋒 Banyan Tree Macau 澳門悅榕莊 COD, Crown Tower 澳門皇冠渡假酒店 COD, Grand Hyatt 君悅酒店 COD, Hard Rock Hotel Galaxy Macau 澳門銀河酒店 Grand Emperor Hotel 英皇娛樂酒店 Grand Lapa 澳門金麗華酒店 Grand Lisboa 澳門新葡京 Grand Waldo 澳門金都酒店 Hotel Lisboa 葡京酒店 Hotel Okura Macau 澳門大倉酒店 Hotel San Tiago 澳門聖地牙哥古堡酒店 L'Arc 澳門凱旋門 Lan Kwai Fong 澳門蘭桂坊酒店 Landmark 置地廣場酒店 Mandarin Oriental 澳門文華東方酒店 MGM Macau 澳門美高梅酒店 Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT 望廈迎賓館 Rocks Hotel 萊斯酒店 Sofitel 澳門十六浦索菲特大酒店 StarWorld Hotel 星際酒店 Waldo Hotel 澳門華都酒店 Westin Resort Macau 澳門威斯汀酒店 Wynn Macau 永利澳門

HOTEL RESTAURANTS

Aurora 奧羅拉 Aux Beaux Arts 寶雅座 Bambu 渢竹 Beijing Kitchen 滿堂彩 Belcanção 嗚詩餐廳 Belon 貝隆 Bene 班尼意大利餐廳 Café Bela Vista 薈景閣咖啡廳 Café Deco 峄景餐廳 Café Lan 蘭苑咖啡廳 City Café, COD Conrad Lobby Lounge 康萊德大堂酒廊 Copa Steakhouse 高雅扒房 Edo Restaurant 江户日本料理 Feast 盛宴餐廳 Festiva 群芳 Fogosamba 巴西扒房 Fortune Inn Restaurant 富臨軒 Golden Court 金沙角 Gosto 葡軒 Grand Emperor Court 皇廷閣 Hard Rock Café Il Teatro 帝雅廷意大利餐廳 Imperial Court 金殿堂 Inagiku 稻菊 Jade Garden 蘇浙匯 Kam Lai Heen 金麗軒 Kings of Kings 帝皇殿 Kira 吉良 L'Arc Lounge 凱旋廊 La Paloma Lan 嵐 Laurel 丹桂軒 Lei Garden 利苑 Madeira Portuguese 小島 Majestic Robatayaki 貴族炉端燒 Mandarin Oriental Lobby McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM 咖啡餅店 Mistral 海風餐廳 MJ Café Monsoon 季風 Morton's Steakhouse Myung Ga Korean Restaurant 名家韓國餐廳 Naam Thai 灆泰國菜餐廳 Nagomi 和大堂酒廊 Old Shanghai 老上海

| TASTING KITCHEN |

Osgatos Pak Lok 百樂潮州 Palms 喜柏大堂酒廊 Patisserie Petrus 碧翠軒 Ping 御品居 Pink Grill 闊董 Rain Restaurant 雨 Rossio 盛事 Royal Orchid 秀蘭小館 Russian Room 魚子屋 Saffron 尚坊 Shanghainese 456 四五六 Spice Garden 香草園 Square 8 食八方 Temptations 品味坊 Tenmasa 天政 Terrace 和庭餐廳 Terrazza 庭園地中海餐廳 The Chinese Restaurant 凱旋軒 The Hotness 巴渝食府 The Royal Kitchen 御廚 The Tasting Room 御膳坊 Toei Delights 東瀛十八番 Treasure Palace 喜迎樓 Tsui Wah 翠華 Varanda 怡心閣 Vergnano Italian 葦嘉勞意大利 Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐廳 Windows Restaurant 華屋 Xin 鮮 Yamazato 山里 Ying 帝影 Zi Yat Heen 紫逸軒

HOTEL BARS & LOUNGES

Bar Azul 名贵酒吧 Cascades 水簾 Florian Bar 洛欣吧 Macallan Whiskey Bar & Lounge 麥卡倫威士忌吧 Pearl Lounge 水明珠 R Bar 樂吧 Rendezvous 大堂吧 Sakazuki 清酒盃 Spectra Bar The Crystal Piano 水晶綱琴 Vasco 乘風廊 Vida Rica Bar 御苑酒廊 Wave 浪淘 Whisky Bar 品味吧 Windor Lounge 溫莎廊

RESTAURANTS

360° Café 旅轉餐廳 A Lorcha 船屋葡國餐廳 A Petisqueira 葡國美食天地 Akasaka Café 赤板 Albergue 1601 婆仔屋餐廳 Andrew's Café - University of Macau 安德魯咖啡廊 Antica Trattoria 經典意大利餐廳 Antonio Restaurant 安東尼奧餐廳 Banza 百性餐廳 Café Litoral 海灣咖啡屋 Camoes Restaurant 賈梅士葡國餐廳 Clube Militar de Macau 澳門陸軍俱樂部 Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa 木偶葡國餐廳 Fat Siu Lau 佛笑樓 Henri's Galley 美心亨利餐廳 Hero Chinese Restaurant 川粵食府 La Bonne Heure 良辰餐廳 La Cucina 我的意大利廚房 Lord Stow's Bakery - Coloane 安德魯咖啡廊 Lua Azul 南湖明月 Macau Dynasty Café 澳門皇朝咖啡 Men Mung Seafood 名門海鮮火 Miramar Restaurant 澳門海景正宗葡國餐廳

november 2012

O Porto Interior Restaurante 內港餐廳 Old Taipa Tavern 好客鄉莊 Pizzeria Toscana 比薩薄餅店 Portal Wine Bar 大門酒吧 Restaurant Litoral 海灣餐廳 Restaurante Escada 大堂街八號葡國餐廳 Restaurante Espaco Lisboa 里斯本地帶餐廳 Restaurante Fernando 法蘭度餐廳 Talay Thai Restaurant 廚泰餐廳 The Corner's 角落餐廳 The Roadhouse 酒吧

CLUBHOUSES

Caesars Golf 凱撒高爾夫 French Wine Institute 法國紅酒學會 La Baie du Noble 海名居 La Cite 寰宇天下 Lake View Tower 湖畔名門 Macau Golf & Country Club 澳門高爾夫球鄉村俱樂部 Macau International Airport lounge 機場貴賓室 Macau Jockey Club 澳門賽馬會會所 Manhattan 曼克頓 Millennium Court 世紀豪庭 Nova City 豪庭都會 Ocean Garden clubhouse 海洋會所 One Central Clubhouse 壹號湖畔 Tenis Civil 文員網球會 The Buckingham 皇族 The Pacifica Garden 海茵怡居 The Praia 海擎天 The Residencia 君悅灣

COFFEE SHOPS

Café Ou Mun 澳門咖啡 Cuppa Coffee 卡巴咖啡店 CUPPACOFFEE

Illy Coffee Pacific Coffee - Galaxy, COD, SCC & The Residencia Singing Bean coffee 音樂豆咖啡 Starbucks 星巴克 - 全澳 5 間分店

HEALTH & SPA

Altira Spa 澄 Banyan Tree - Spa 悅榕莊 Bodhi Spa 康萊德菩提水療 Crown - The Spa 皇冠 · 漾日水療中心 Four Season - Spa 四季酒店 Grand Lapa Spa 金麗華 Isala Spa 君悅 · 怡水療中心 Malo Clinic Spa 馬瀧綜合康健醫療中心 Mandarin Oriental - The Spa 文華東方 Rock Spa - Hard Rock · 騰水療中心 Royal Thai Spa 英皇水療 Shine Spa 喜來登炫逸水療中心 Six Senses Spa 美高梅 The Spa at Encore 萬利理療康體中心 The Spa at Wynn 永利澳門理療康體中心

HONG Kong Restaurants

208 Duecento Otto Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant 阿一海景飯店 Amber Angel's Share Bo Innovation 廚魔 Bourbon Caprice Carpaccio Pasta Pizza Vino Casa Lisboa Cépage Chilli Fagara 麻辣燙 Club @28

Cuisine Cuisine (IFC) 國金軒 Cuisine Cuisine at the Mira 國金軒 Da Ping Huo 四川菜大平伙 Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Double Happiness Café Dynasty (Wan Chai) 滿福樓 Feast Felix FINDS

Fish Bar & Grill 魚吧 Flutes Champagne and Cocktail bar Fook Lam Moon (Wan Chai) Forum Restaurant 富臨飯店 Fu Ho Restaurant (Tsim Sha Tsui) 富豪酒家 Gaddi's 吉地士 Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gingko house 銀杏館 Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Hard Rock Café Hoi King Heen 海景軒 Hyde Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar Island Tang Isola Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Kudos L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Lei Garden (IFC) Lung King Heen Mask of Si Chuen Ming Court 明閣 mini dans la ville Mirror Nagahama No. 1 Ramen 長浜 No.1 拉麵 Nicholini's One-Thirtyone Petrus Pierre Portobello Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Sahara Mezz Bar Sashay café and wine bar SCIROCCO

Sevva Shui Hu Ju 水滸居 Spasso Italian bar Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon 嘉麟樓 Starz Wine Bar Studio City Bar & Café Sugar (Bar.Deck.Lounge) Summer Palace 夏宮 Sushi Kuu 壽司喰 T'ang Court 唐閣 Thai Orchids Café & Bar 泰 ‧ 蘭花 The Press Room The Quarterdeck Hong Kong The Square 翠玉軒 Tim's Kitchen 桃花源小廚 Wagyu Kaiseki Den Yan Toh Heen 欣圖軒 Yardbird Yat Tung Heen (Wan chai) 逸東軒 ( 灣仔 ) Yorkshire Pudding

TK In Transit Air Macau 澳門航空 Avis 華國租車服務有限公司 Burgeon Rent a car 百路達自動車租賃 Jet Asia 私人飛機 Macau Jet 國際商務航空 Sky Shuttle 空中快線直升機 Turbojet 噴射飛航

dessert

Chef Michele dell'Aquila of Altira Macau's Aurora gives white truffles a prominent role in his Tiramisu Biscotto con Tartufo Bianco, which playfully combines the contrasting flavors and textures of white truffle, soft biscotto, Italian meringue and chocolate sauce, chocolate sorbet, coffee Chantilly cream, and wafers and crumbles of coffee, chocolate and vanilla. 澳门新濠锋酒店「Aurora」意式餐厅主厨Michele dell'Aquila的松露酥饼「Biscotto con Tartufo Bianco」以白松露为主，巧妙结合了味道及口感各有千秋的多种食材－－白松露、意式酥饼、意式蛋白霜、巧克力酱、巧克力冰糕、咖啡鲜奶油、咖啡碎片、巧克力及香草。

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012

| TASTING KITCHEN |

november 2012