TK10 Flavor DNA

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TASTING KITCHEN

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FLAVOR DNA

INDIA

Spice World HONG KONG

Isaan Ingenuity FRANCE

Dark Matter

starter

At Chachawan Isaan restaurant, Executive Chef Adam Cliff debones a duck, chops it up and fries it with its skin and fat. Deep-fried pork skin is added for crunch and texture. The dish is seasoned with roasted and ground dried chili, which offers a fierce heat beautifully balanced by the richness of the duck. Fragrance and freshness is added with Kaffir lime leaves, long leaf coriander and crisp lettuce. 「Chachawan」泰式餐馆主打北泰依善菜式，行政主厨Adam Cliff先为鸭子去骨，把鸭肉切片后与鸭皮 鸭脂同煎，再搭配炸猪皮，增添酥脆口感，随后加入已干烤的磨碎辣椒，让火辣的风味巧妙平衡鸭肉 的丰腴肥美。最后加入泰国青柠叶、长叶胡荽与青翠莴苣叶，让整道菜更加香气十足、清新爽口。

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FLAVOR DNA ISSUE #10

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & CO-PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Jenny Man GROUP GENERAL MANAGER & CO-PUBLISHER jman@tasting-kitchen.com

Jeff Hammons

Jean Alberti

EDITOR AT LARGE jeff@tasting-kitchen.com

CHEF AT LARGE jean@tasting-kitchen.com

sales@tasting-kitchen.com

Joey Cheang

David Hartung

Mary Ng Traverso

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR CHINESE EDITOR

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Yvonne Cheong EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Sarah Dallof Andrew Dembina Margie T. Logarta Jo Mckinnon Lucy Morgan Roland Muksch Kate Nicholson Inara Sim CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Alicia Beebe

GROUP ADVERTISING

SALES DIRECTOR +852 9023 7879 mary@tasting-kitchen.com

ART DIRECTOR

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

PRINTING ABC Digital Printing Co. LTD. 9/F, Long Life Industrial Building 15 Ko Fai Road, Yau Tong Kowloon, Hong Kong

Kennis Yuen PRODUCTION MANAGER

DISTRIBUTION

Allen Sun

Blackstone Concepts Communication

PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT

+ 852 3481 0518

Timothy Tang CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION EXECUTIVE

Rita Ng ACCOUNTANT

TK Director of Photography David Hartung shopped for the spices in his cover photograph at the world’s largest spice market in Old Delhi, India (see more of his photos starting on page 94). From top to bottom: green cardamon, cumin, coriander seeds, large cardamon, cloves, turmeric, chili pepper, nutmeg, star anise, peppercorn and cinnamon. 封面照片由TK摄影总监 David Hartung 采景于全球最大型辣椒市场。由上至下 罗列分别为：绿色小豆蔻，小茴香，芫荽籽，大豆蔻，丁香，姜黄，辣椒， 豆蔻，八角，胡椒，肉桂。读者可于本刊第94页观赏更多的照片。

Photograph by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen 2013.

All rights reserved

Grand Presidential Suite t h e TA J M A H A L , NE W DEL H I

The magnificence of New Delhi, as envisioned by Sir Edwin Lutyens In the corporate, diplomatic, and social whirl of New Delhi, there is really only one address – The Taj Mahal.

Which is why it has long been home to heads of state, business titans, and prominent thought leaders. And one suite, among many exceptional ones, has captured their attention. Inspired by the designs of Sir Edwin Lutyens, the Grand Presidential Suite brings his vision of a magical residence to life. The suite features a generous 3,000 square ft. layout, ornate appointments and splendid views. Guests will no doubt also delight in the outstanding service that is so distinctively Taj.

Taj forever.

THE TAJ M AH AL

•

NEW DELHI

1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi, India 110 011. Call 1.800.111.825 toll free or the hotel directly, 91.11.2302.6162.

Visit tajhotels.com.

Voted 2013 Best Hotel in New Delhi by Travel + Leisure U.S. readers.

contents

14 – 33 T A S T I N G N E W S 34 Molteni, Meet Hong Kong • 36 Silver Space • 40 Gifts for Little Gourmets • 41 Christmas Staples 42 From the Nest of a Phoenix • 46 The Last Supper • 52 G and Tea • 54 Krug and the Culinary Crab 64 Layers of Delight • 70 Cova’s Treasure Trove • 72 Magnificent Tradition • 74 The Perfect Cure

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contents

80 ’Tis the Season • 84 Isaan Ingenuity • 88 Spice • 94 Spice World • 112 Chôm Chôm Nom Nom 118 Sichuan Spice Maestro • 124 A Festive Feast • 128 Primal Pleasure • 132 How Do You Like Them Apples • 136 Old World Charm 138 The Many Guises of Austria’s Grüner Veltliner • 140 Leave It Up to The Chef • 144 Private Dining • 146 Quinoa Lobster Salad • 150 Dark Matter 154 W H E R E T O F I N D T K • 156 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 160 D E S S E R T

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publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

Season’s Greetings – or should I say Seasonings Greetings!

This holiday TK issue is full of spices and flavorings.

We talk to four talented and ambitious chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA – of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom, black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime, lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric.

We take a look at spices in history, and how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story.

Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain.

Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern Indian cuisine.

One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint.

There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings.

Happy Holidays,

MARK HAMMONS

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chef’s note

Greetings from Tasting Kitchen.

Spices are the backbone of any cuisine. In a restaurant kitchen, if you run out of something as simple as white pepper, operations can quickly grind to a halt. People say that food is the spice of life, but we would not have developed a love for food if it were not for spice.

In my hometown of Belfort, France, a gentleman from Pakistan had a store where he sold spices, medicinal herbs and coffee. In the summer he would grind all kinds of mysterious spices, and the town would fill with the smell of cinnamon, anardana or ajwain. My grandmother used to buy saffron from him every Sunday, which she used to make paella.

When I was in culinary school in Strasbourg in the early ‘80s spices were not that common in the French kitchen. You had the usual suspects like black pepper, curry, cinnamon, paprika and a few others but not very much variety.

I started to get interested in spices when I worked in the West Indies, where for over 200 hundred years the Dutch, English and the French dominated the spice trade. To this day you will find spices there that are not available in the West.

My Sous Chef Nigel took me to the spice market on Antigua and later on the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. They were hundreds of spices there: seeds, roots, and powders, each with their own color, texture and smell. I was completely taken aback by the range of spices, all presented in big jute sacks and sold by beautiful women dressed in colorful clothes.

It was a feast for the senses, and I bought so many spices there that my car smelled like curry for the next three years.

JEAN ALBERTI

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tasting news

举杯迎马年

raise a glass to the year of the horse GOING ONCE, going twice, gone! A lucky eight hundred and eighty-eight specially designed bottles of Castiglion del Bosco’s Brunello Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006 vintage will be auctioned off during a charity gala on November 25. They’re the first edition of the Tuscan vineyard’s annual Chinese zodiac series. The to-be-auctioned bottles bear a special label by artist Tian Shuhan, depicting a graceful horse mid-gallop to celebrate 2014’s Year of the Horse.

Vineyard owner and luxury goods designer Massimo Ferragamo will be donating funds raised during the charity gala dinner to the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation.

To up the bidding, Ferragamo and Tian Shuhan will also be signing bottles 1, 8, 18, 28, 38, 68, 88 and 888.

一次，两次，成交！取中文「八八八」 吉 祥 之 意， 意 大 利 Castiglion del

Bosco 酒庄将捐出八百八十八支 2006 年 份 额 外 酿 造 的 Brunello Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 作 为 11 月 25 日的慈善拍卖之用。托斯卡尼酒 庄首度采用中国生肖作为酒标，并邀 请著名画家田书翰先生配合 2014 为中 国生肖之马年的主题，绘制一匹优雅 奔驰的骏马作为酒标专属纪念图案。 酒庄主人，同时也是知名设计师 的 Massimo Ferragamo，将在慈善拍 卖晚会为香港乳癌基金会筹措善款。 为了筹得更高金额，

Ferragamo 和田书翰先生将于编 号 1 号 和 尾 数 为 幸 运 数 字 8 的 8, 18,

28, 38, 68, 88 and 888 等酒标上亲笔 签名。

欢乐佳节马拉松

holiday mirathon WITH SUMPTUOUS holiday menus across three restaurants – Yamm, WHISK and the Michelin-starred Cuisine Cuisine – and sweet treats at COCO cafe and patisserie, The Mira Hotel has your gourmet Christmas, Boxing Day and New Year dining covered. For those celebrating at home or buying for others, COCO has Christmas roasts, hampers and luxurious pastries crafted by Executive Pastry Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher.

Start your New Year’s Eve celebrations under the stars with a BBQ at Vibes and then head to Room One to dance until dawn.

As the celebratory season winds down, get pampered at MiraSpa or check in to the luxurious MiraSpa Suite for a night. The holiday offerings at The Mira Hong Kong would put even the Grinch himself into a festive mood.

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欢 庆 佳 节 的 时 刻 即 将 到 来，The Mira Hong Kong 三 家 餐 厅 Yamm、WHISK 及 米 其 林 星 级餐厅 Cuisine Cuisine 均推出丰盛的佳节特

物篮及奢华糕点 ；除夕夜则可先至 Vibes 餐

餐，COCO 糕饼店更推出各式甜蜜点心，让

松、犒赏自己，或至 MiraSpa Suite 豪华套房

客 人 从 圣 诞 节、 节 礼 日 到 新 年， 再 也 不 用 费 尽 心 思 寻 找 美 食。 若 想 在 家 庆 祝 或 挑 选

入住一晚，为连续假期画下完美句点。 The Mira Hong Kong 琳琅满目的佳节献礼，即使

佳 节 赠 礼，COCO 饼 房 行 政 总 厨 Jean-Marc

是讨厌圣诞节的绿精灵，也会忍不住满心期

Gaucher 精心准备了圣诞烧烤大餐、应景礼

盼节庆到来！

厅享受星空 BBQ，再到 Room One 通宵达旦 热舞狂欢。随后还可选择去 MiraSpa 好好放

tasting news

美「钻」白松露

white diamond dining

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钻石或许是女孩最好的朋友，但在料理界，阿尔 巴白松露才堪称是王冠上的宝石。阿尔巴白松露 人称 「白色钻石」 ， 是来自意大利北部的珍贵极品， 不仅美味，香气更是独特出众，最近一跃成为澳 门新濠锋酒店招牌意大利餐厅「奥罗拉」的本季 主打星。 奥罗拉行政总厨 Michele dell’ Aquila 向来 追求别创新格的意式美馔，这次的白松露特餐同 样巧思独具。 dell’ Aquila 曾在十月与三位才华 洋溢的厨师合作，联手推出阿尔巴白松露巡回盛 宴，因此料理白松露实可谓驾轻就熟。现在由

dell’ Aquila 独自大展厨艺，推出各式各样美味 Full menu for MOP 2,480 per person, a la carte dishes from MOP 228. 丰盛套餐每位澳门币 2,480元，单点白松露 菜式由澳门币228元起 +853 2886 8868.

佳肴，菜式彷如舞台，白松露就是舞台上大放异 彩的焦点。精致菜色包括耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟慢煮有 机鸡蛋佐白松露、奶油意式宽扁面佐三十六个月 帕玛森芝士酱与白松露、布列斯鸡胸蘑菇砂锅佐 白松露及意式玉米粥，甚至盛在玻璃杯中的提拉 米苏也点缀了白松露，让甜点也沾染白松露的馨 香。 奥罗拉的白松露套餐自即日起供应至 2014 年 1 月 12 日。

COURTESY OF AURORA

DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND and chefs like them too. In the culinary world, the Alba white truffle reigns supreme. Known as “white diamonds,” these precious truffles hail from Northern Italy and are as aromatic as they are flavorful. They’re the star of the show this season at Aurora, Altira Macau’s signature Italian restaurant.

The White Truffle at Aurora menu, available until 12 January 2014, furthers the mission of Chef de Cuisine Michele dell’ Aquila to redefine Italian food for guests. He’s right at home thanks to October’s White Alba Truffle Tour during which he worked alongside three other talented chefs. This time around, dell’ Aquila alone shines with his menu featuring a delicious diversity of dishes, each serving as a stage upon which the truffles can enjoy the spotlight: slow-cooked organic egg on Jerusalem artichoke puree with white truffle; tagliolini with butter, 36-month parmesan cheese fondue and white truffle; and Bresse chicken breast and mushroom casserole accompanied by white truffle and Langhe polenta.

The rich truffle flavor even extends into the dessert course with traditional tiramisu served with white truffle.

tasting news

午茶创新意

creative tea MIXOLOGISTS are in their element when competing to develop the next trendy cocktail. High tea wouldn’t seem to be conducive to the same kind of creative oneupsmanship. But then again, why not? Why shouldn’t professional chefs battle to create the next hot high tea? Dilmah encourages creative cooking, thinking and drinking with their Hong Kong & Macau Real High Tea Challenge. The challenge is this: to put together an original menu for a traditional high tea using tea as a main ingredient.

This will be the eighth year of the Real High Tea Challenge, which has been held previously in a number of exotic destinations across the globe. Memorably successful creations from past Challenges include teainfused chai macarons, tea-candied macadamias and lychee and strawberry tea sangria.

Winners receive a seven-day VIP tour of Sri Lanka and as well as a slot to compete in the Real High Tea Global Challenge.

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称职的调酒师能创造出一杯杯新潮、带动流 行的鸡尾酒，而隐身在厨房的下午茶师傅首 重承袭传统作法。但为何下午茶不能有创意？ 难道下午茶师傅就不能标新立异？为了鼓励 制作、思维与饮茶的创新，全球第三大茶叶 公司 Dilmah 于香港和澳门举办下午茶挑战赛。 参赛者必须以茶为主轴，结合传统下午茶精 神和呈现方式，创作出新口味的茶点或茶饮。 下午茶挑战赛已于全球各地不同城市举 办，今年来到第八届，过去几届的得奖者也 创造出许多令人难忘的美味茶点，像是印度 香料奶茶口味马卡龙、茶味坚果、草莓荔枝 到为期七天的斯里兰卡 VIP 之旅，同时晋级 参加在斯里兰卡举办的全球下午茶竞赛，和 来自各地的好手一较高下。

realhightea.dilmahtea.com/2013/hk/

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COURTESY OF DILMAH

红茶口味桑格莉亚。此次挑战赛获胜者可得

tasting news

水彩缤纷 梦幻圣诞

a watercolor christmas THIS HOLIDAY SEASON, recipients of Champagne Drappier’s limited-edition gift set won’t be tearing through the packaging to get to the fine bubbly inside. In fact, admiring the outside of the 2013 Carte d’Or gift set is part of the experience.

Hong Kong’s own Benny Au is the artist behind the eye-catching watercolor on the box of the gift set. His knowledge of paper-making also led to the creation of the limited edition label positioned right above the Champagne house’s iconic yellow and gold bottle label. Just 1,200 sets will find their way into Hong Kong shops.

The packaging is not just beautiful; it’s also symbolic of the process of creating a bottle of Champagne Drappier. The triangular box represents the relationship the winemaker has with the climate and soil. The five color options stand for elements ranging from the rich quince flavor of the Champagne to the chalk soil in Urville, France where the house was started.

2013 年限量版卓皮耶 (Drappier) Carte d’Or 顶级香槟 礼盒于圣诞时期推出，包装赏心悦目令人着迷，爱不 释手。 礼盒上的水彩图案出自香港本地艺术家区德诚之 手，吸睛度十足。卓皮耶也善用他制纸方面的专业， 在酒庄知名的金黄酒标上方附加了限量版的特别标牌。 限量版的包装不只美仑美奂，更可从中一窥卓皮 耶香槟的酿造奥秘。三角形的酒盒代表酿酒人、天气 及土壤三者间密切的关系。可供选择的五种颜色则有 法国 Urville 地区的白垩土、香槟丰富的榲桲果味及酒 庄起家就有的葡萄藤叶等多种意含。 随着佳节脚步接近，2013 年卓皮耶 Carte d’Or 顶 级香槟礼盒也将于香港特定商城上架，限量 1,200 份，

HKD $370 per set www.champagne-drappier.com

我们开始期待收到这份大礼的幸运儿会有多兴奋了 !

天书指南 美食开路

from the page to the plate

“Hong Kong visitors are highly sophisticated visitors and are known to be big foodies. Wherever they travel, they seek out local dishes as a way to explore and experience the unique local culture,” says Markus Tan, Singapore Tourism Board Area Director for Southern China, Hong Kong & Macau.

The Singapore Food Guide, written by HK food critic and blogger KC Koo, covers 15 types of Singaporean cuisine including prawn mee , fried carrot cake, rojak and fried crab. Koo conducted secret taste tests everywhere from humble hawker stands to five-star establishments. His 50 favorites are laid out in the guide, a road map of the country’s most delicious eats.

Available at the Singapore Tourism Board, Causeway Bay 可于新加坡旅游局铜锣湾办事处索取。 www.yoursingapore.com/foodguide

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探险新加坡是种令人愉悦的体验，若能深入街头巷尾， 像个在地人般尝遍市井小吃，更是惊喜连连。现在， 新出版的「新加坡美食天书」让每年到新加坡观光的 五十万香港人有了穿梭大街小巷、满足口腹之欲的绝 佳理由。 新加坡旅游局中国华南、香港及澳门区处长陈振 发说 ： 「香港旅客对美食拥有极高的品味，也同时有一 张挑剔的嘴，无论他们在哪里旅行，都会游走市町街 坊寻访当地美食，当作探索、体验在地文化的方式。 」 由香港知名美食评论家同时也是部落客的 KC Koo 所撰写的「新加坡美食天书」 ，网罗十五大类新加坡美 食，囊括虾面、炒萝卜糕、罗惹、辣炒螃蟹等风味特色。 KC Koo 的足迹踏遍整座花园城市，介绍的觅食点从世

代经营传统小吃摊，以至闻名世界的餐厅饭店，一应 俱全。他在书中推荐的五十多家餐厅小吃，可说是赏 味新加坡的最佳指南。

COURTESY OF DRAPPIER

DISCOVERING SINGAP ORE is fun. Discovering Singapore by snacking, sipping and savoring the country’s wide array of cuisines is even better. Now, the half million Hong Kong residents who visit Singapore every year are free to sink their teeth into the new Singapore Food Guide .

tasting news

纽西兰顶级好酒

new zealand’s best

When you taste wine specifically to judge its quality and come up with a rating, do you always follow a set routine?

Yes, I think that’s very important. For example I always taste wines from 9:00 am. No more than twenty wines at a time. I use the same glasses (Riedel Magnum) and taste in the same spot. I note the color, consider the flavor descriptors and then assess texture and length before considering the wine in holistic terms, for example how does it compare to others in its class, is it good value and what food would I match it with.

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What are the key qualities that separate a great wine from a good wine? Do they assert themselves immediately through a wine’s bouquet and taste, or do you sometimes have to get to know a great wine to appreciate it?

Great wines are usually fairly obvious. They tend to have power (most easily assessed by the wine’s length of flavor), complexity, and an appropriate texture. They also have what I call the “X” factor that is less easily measured, probably slightly subjective but very obvious to me when I experience it. It is true that some wines can grow in stature the more I taste them. That is particularly true of wines that are built for long term cellaring. They can often

COURTESY OF PHOTONEWZEALAND.COM

Wine Master Bob Campbell recently visited the Tasting Room at the City of Dreams in Macau for a dinner featuring some of New Zealand’s greatest wines, each of which he has rated at ninety points or higher. He took time to share with TK his thoughts about what makes a great wine great.

品酒大师 Bob Campbell 最近受邀,一访澳门新濠天地御膳房(Tasting Room)享用晚 宴，对于席间搭配的多款纽西兰顶级葡萄酒惊艳不已，个个拿下九十或更高的分 数。 Bob Campbell 特别接受TK专访，分享美酒之所以不凡的奥妙之处。 品酒时需要评鉴品质好坏打分数，是否有

顶级葡萄酒与一般好酒相比好在哪里？凭

套固定的品评流程？

借自身酒香及味道就能脱颖而出，还是需

没错，那正是重点所在。举例来说，早上九点

要对其有一定了解才能领会？

后我才会开始品酒，一次不能超过二十种酒 ；

顶级美酒妙不可言，最简单的评判方式就是

只用 Riedel Magnum 酒杯，从同样的地方入

看余韵的维持时长、复杂性高，而且质地恰

口品尝。我会注记色泽、思考味道指标，同时

到好处。对此我有特别触角，异常敏感，说

品评酒的质地和余韵，最后再从整体观点来看

来比较难以量测或偏个人主观，但于我而言，

这款酒，例如与同等级其他酒款相较之下表现

确是一试便知高下。不过确实有些酒是喝的

如何、 是否有其价值或可与何种食物搭配等等。

次数多了，分数会越来越高，陈年窖藏酒就 flavor dna

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tasting news

Every wine lover has a certain personality and specific preferences. What are your own unique preferences when it comes to wine?

If you mean wine style I must confess that Pinot Noir is my “desert island wine” with Riesling a close second.

However I appreciate great examples of all wine styles from Champagne to sherry.

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What makes the best New Zealand wines great?

I need to answer that by referencing specific wine types. Sauvignon Blanc: the best are intense, pungently aromatic, have purity and an array of subtle flavors. The best wines have energy. Riesling: power, purity and an exquisite tension between subtle sweetness and knifeedged acidity. Chardonnay: an emphasis on fruit flavor rather than winemaker influence such as oak, buttery characters and yeast autolysis. Must have power and complexity with a silken texture. Pinot Noir: power, a silken texture and an array of flavors that are displayed like the colors on a peacock’s tail. Syrah and blended reds: power, intensity, density, complexity and the ability to age gracefully.

KEVIN JUDD / AUSTIN LANGFORD

be a little hard to assess when first released. Also some wines grow in the glass. That’s particularly true of red wines sealed with a screw cap and very young wines that have lots of potential.

是很好的例子，此酒款若刚上市就被品评确

纽西兰顶级葡萄酒好在哪里？

有难度。另外，也有在玻璃杯中味道更胜一

容我用几个特殊的葡萄酒种来回答。白苏维

筹的酒，瓶盖瓶装、年轻的红酒就是最好的

翁 ：气味强烈、带呛鼻酒香，味道纯粹、蕴

例子，可以说潜力无穷。

含多种细致底味，顶级佳酿能量十足。雷司 令 ：酒精浓度高而纯粹，雅致甜味与刀锋般

葡萄酒爱好者都有独特的个性及特殊喜好。

锐利的酸度带来鲜明对比。夏多内 ：果味大

您是否有特别偏爱的酒？

胜酿酒时掺带的橡木桶、绵密奶香及酵母分

如果是葡萄品种的话黑皮诺绝对是我的第一

解等味道。酒精浓度及复杂性一定要高，同

名，有如「沙漠绿洲」一般的好酒，而雷司

时带有丝般质地。黑皮诺： 浓度高、丝绸质地，

令以些微差距排第二。总的来说各式酒种，

各式味道开展有如孔雀开屏的绚烂色彩。希

从香槟到雪莉，只要是好酒我都爱。

拉及混酿红酒 ：浓度高、味道强、纯度及复 杂性高，越陈越香。

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tasting news

顶级香槟之夜

chef’s table champagne TA S T I N G K I T C H E N F O U N D E R M A R K H A M M O N S

「Tasting Kitchen」 创 办 人 Mark Hammons

welcomed world-renowned Champagne expert Richard Juhlin and G.H. Mumm Chef de Cave Didier Mariott to a special Chef’s Table dinner held on Monday, October 21 at L’Atelier de Robuchon.

Joining the dinner were VIP chefs and hotel managers from the Mandarin Oriental, Island Shangri-la, the Ritz Carlton, Marriott Hotels, W Hotel and The Seasons.

Guests enjoyed a special menu pairing world-class Robuchon dishes with G.H. Mumm Champagnes, i ­n cluding the newly released G.H. Mumm Le Millésime 2006 and G.H. Mumm Brut Sélection C­uvée.

Mr. Juhlin called the cuvée “a youthful, perfectly ­orchestrated Champagne from five of the best Grand Cru villages in Champagne.” The blend achieves power and minerality with Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Aÿ and Bouzy, and Chardonnay from Cramant and Avize. “A blend of reserve wines and specific sugar content succeed in extracting the power and charm of each terroir,” said Mr. Mariott.

十 月 二 十 一 日 于 法 式 餐 厅 L’Atelier de

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Robuchon 设 宴 款 待 全 球 知 名 的 香 槟 专 家 Richard Juhlin 及法国知名品牌 G.H. Mumm 酿酒师 Didier Mariott。 出席宴会的还有来自文华东方酒店、港 岛香格里拉酒店、丽思卡尔顿酒店、万豪酒 店、W 饭店及 The Seasons 的重量级主厨及 经理级大人物。 宾客一边品尝由享誉世界的 Robuchon 主 厨特制的晚宴套餐，一边细评 G.H. Mumm 顶 级 佳 酿， 包 括 新 推 出 的「2006 年 G.H.

Mumm Le Millésime」及「G.H. Mumm Brut Sélection Cuvée 」。后者滋味更让 Juhlin 赞 不绝口 ： 「这款年轻香槟，且可说是香槟区 五大最佳葡萄庄园的完美混酿结晶。 」这款

Avize 酒庄的霞多丽葡萄混酿而成。 Mariott 也称赞道 ： 「当中的甜度充分体验出不同酒 庄各自的风土，实属完美搭配。 」

RED DOG STUDIO

充满泥土芬芳的佳酿分别由 Verzenay，Aÿ 及 Bouzy 酒 庄 的 黑 皮 诺 葡 萄，Cramant 及

花落谁家

DAVID RUANO

and the winners are…

I T ’ S O N E O F T H E H O T T E S T L I S T S to be on and therefore one of the toughest to get on. However, fine-dining foodies can score a seat at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ award ceremony coming up on February 24. Held at Capella Singapore, it’s a full-day event packed with workshops and a forum attended by key industry figures and some of the world’s most eminent chefs. It culminates with the announcement of 2014’s winners in mouthwatering categories like Best Pastry Chef, the One to Watch Award and The S. Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia.

Winners are decided by the votes of 900 international stars of the dining industry including food critics, restaurateurs and chefs. Each gets just seven votes, four of which have to be cast outside of the individual’s home region. The big winners of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants will include not just chefs and restaurants, but also the diners who land soon-to-be coveted reservations.

亚洲料理界公认最难取得、竞争最激烈的 奖项，非 2014 年 2 月 24 日在新加坡嘉佩 乐酒店举办的「亚洲五十最佳餐厅」竞赛 莫属。当天活动包括安排多场研讨会及由 业界指标性人物和知名厨师主持的论坛。 活动最高潮莫过于宣布各个奖项－最佳糕 点师傅、最佳新人奖及圣沛黎洛亚洲最佳 餐厅的幸运得主。 冠军将由九百位来自全球料理界举足 轻重的食评家、餐厅经营者和主厨票选产 生。每位评审手中握有七张选票，其中四 张必须投给来自不同地区、不同国家的入 围者。 这场赛事的赢家，包括将获得亚洲 最佳餐厅荣耀的主厨和餐厅，他们未来的 订位热况可想而知。而众多翘首以待的饕 客也将有一饱口福的大好机会。

www.theworlds50best.com/asia flavor dna

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tasting news

澳洲新美馔

down under dining

David Laris

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想 亲 自 体 验 新 开 幕 的 澳 洲 餐 厅 BellBrook

Bistro Oz by Laris 全新的美味料理？先看看 菜单背面的「囚犯游戏」 。这个游戏的设计 来 自 于 澳 洲 殖 民 历 史， 从 起 点 开 始 逐 步 完 成 所 有 彩 色 的 正 方 格， 一 边 前 进 一 边 避 免 停 在 画 有 脚 镣 的 格 子 上。 如 果 不 巧 停 到 有 脚镣的格子，就必须退回几格并罚酒一杯。 不过，一提到料理和风味，BellBrook 绝 不马虎。仔细阅读菜单和店内黑板上手写的 每日特餐，就能发现这家餐厅与众不同、口 味 道 地 的 澳 洲 菜， 像 是 野 生 塔 斯 马 尼 亚 朝 鲜 蓟 和 澳 洲 鞑 靼 牛 肉。 餐 点 以 小 菜 方 式 小 份量呈盘，让同桌用餐的客人能轻松共享料 理。店内的一切也记录着主厨 David Laris 和 Dining Concepts 对客人的用心。想要品尝美 食也想来点轻松愉悦的气氛，这里统统都有！

COURTESY OF BELLBROOK

2/F, 77 Wyndham Street, Central 香港中环云咸街77号2楼 +852 2530 1600

NEED PROOF that the new Aussie eatery BellBrook, bistro oz by Laris doesn’t take itself too seriously? Look no further than the “Convict Game” printed on the back of the restaurant’s menu. Based on the country’s past as a penal colony, players cross colored squares hoping to avoid the shackles which will send them back several spaces and require them to knock back a shot.

When it comes to food and flavor, though, BellBrook doesn’t play around.

Flip the menu over or look to the dailyspecial blackboards to discover indigenous specialties and other palate-pleasing dishes like wild Tasmanian globe artichokes and Aussie steak tartare. They’re served tapas style, for sharing, as are BellBrook’s Table Salads, Bigger Bites and desserts.

Everything from the food to the colorful tile work to the canning jars in the refrigerator is the work of celebrity chef David Laris (right) and restaurant group Dining Concepts.

Serving delicious food with a sense of fun and laidback charm? Convicted.

欢庆时刻在「金」宵

holiday meals as good as gold With his upcoming holiday menus at Gold by Harlan Goldstein in the LKF Tower, Chef Harlan Goldstein is breaking both eggs and customs.

YOU WON’T FIND ANY TURKEY on the Christmas Eve Dinner menu at Gold by Harlan Goldstein.

Instead, diners will delight in slow-cooked French Christmas Capon served with sausage stuffing, cranberry and natural jus. “A lot of people say you should have turkey but I prefer capon. Cranberry sauce, walnuts, panettone, and eggnog also make me feel festive!”

The alternate main course is one of Chef Harlan Goldstein’s favorites: beef cheek slow-cooked for eighteen hours to give it a “melt in your mouth” sensation. “This is really a mama’s dish, served with spiced sauce to get you in the mood,” he says.

The multi-course meal is reminiscent of Goldstein’s childhood Christmas celebrations which would run late into the night and end “with a very full belly.”

By contrast, says Goldstein, his New Year’s Eve menu features lighter dishes, so that diners can enjoy lots of great wine and Champagne. “You will be able to hit the midnight toast till six in the morning.”

The New Year’s Eve menu sparkles with dishes ranging from sushi-style Spanish blue fin tuna and foie gras to wild mushroom consommé with fresh porcini and black truffle gnocchi. The Spanish Mediterranean flavors promise a satisfying kick start to 2014.

Christmas Eve Dinner 平安夜晚宴 | HK$980 New Year’s Eve Dinner 除夕晚宴 | HK$1,380 Level 2, LKF Tower 33 Wyndham Street, Central Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街33号 LKF Tower 2楼 (852) 2869-9986

火鸡将在 Gold by Harlan Goldstein 的 圣诞大餐中缺席，取而代之的，是嫩 烤法式春鸡镶腊肠佐红莓酱。「许多 人认为圣诞夜少不了火鸡，但我就钟 情于春鸡，伴上红莓酱汁、胡桃、潘 娜 朵 妮 ( 意 式 圣 诞 面 包 )、 甜 蛋 酒， 总能让我沉浸在欢乐愉悦的节庆气氛 中。 」 另 一 道 主 菜 是 主 厨 Harlan Goldstein 的私藏料理之一－红酒炖牛 颊。牛颊在文火中细煮慢炖十八小时，

COURTESY OF GOLD BY HARLAN GOLDSTEIN

Above: Spanish blue fin tuna and foie gras, with beetroot, black ink crumbs and baby cress salad 西班牙蓝鳍吞 拿及鹅肝伴红 菜头、墨汁脆片 及香芹苗沙律 Right: Melt-inYour-Mouth Wagyu Beef Cheek 入口即 溶的牛面颊肉

颊肉充分吸收酱汁的精华，让它拥有 「入口即化」的绵密口感。主厨说： 「牛 颊是妈妈的拿手菜，浓郁的炖煮香气 在空气中弥漫着，宣告圣诞的到来。 」 这份怀旧套餐是主厨 Harlan Goldstein 对小时候圣诞记忆的忠实呈现，保证 每一道作品都精彩绝伦、绝无冷场。 不 同 于 圣 诞 套 餐，Harlan Goldstein 欢庆新年推出的除夕套餐较 为清爽，让用餐者能保留胃口，尽情 「就 享用餐厅精心严选的美酒和香槟。 好像置身于「酒足饭饱，欲罢不能， 不知东方之天际白」之境，享受迎新 的美好时光。 除夕套餐将有黑鲔鱼寿司、鹅肝、 牛干菌黑松露野菇浓汤，让富有西班 牙风味的地中海料理为 2014 年完美 揭开序幕。

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tasting news

绿汀小舍

country cottage oasis

CHRIS WOODYARD and BRONWYN CHEUNG, the

husband and wife team (opposite page) behind Madame Sixty Ate, are welcoming a new member to their culinary family with the launch of Madam S’ate. Located in Elements Shopping Mall, the cuisine is contemporary French with selections designed for all-day eats, leisurely weekend brunches, lovely dinners, and quick coffees and pastries. Heading up the kitchen is New Zealand native George Scott-Toft (left), who has cooked his way through the kitchens of a long list of highly acclaimed restaurants in Sydney, Melbourne and London.

Designed as a play on a country cottage, Madam S’ate aims to provide a homey oasis in the hubbub of bustling Hong Kong. Patrons can relax with a glass of wine from the restaurant’s extensive list on the alfresco courtyard or enjoy a boutique beer or Champagne indoors at the bar. It’s an atmosphere that promises to fool diners into thinking they’re vacationing in the French countryside, if only for a few hours.

Chris Woodyard 和 Bronwyn Cheung 夫 妻 档， 继 Madame Sixty Ate 餐厅之后，新开另一家姐 妹餐厅 Madam S’ate。餐厅位在圆方购物中心， 全日供应法式料理，成为周末早午餐、下午茶、 晚餐最佳新选择。来自纽西兰的主厨 George Scott-Toft，曾任职于许多知名餐厅，国家遍及 悉尼、墨尔本及伦敦。 Madam S’ate 外 观 就 像 间 乡 村 度 假 别 墅， 在熙攘繁忙的香港都会中打造如在家一般舒适、 令人身心放松的绿洲。不论是选择户外雅座小 酌，或是在吧台点杯啤酒或香槟，这里舒服闲 适的空间和气氛可以让人暂时远离尘嚣，仿佛

Roof Deck, Civic Square, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui 香港九龙尖沙咀柯士甸道一号圆方的天台演荟广场 +852 2537 7555, www.sate.com.hk

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COURTESY OF MADAME S’ATE

置身法国乡间别墅般悠闲自在。

tasting news

味觉之周

taste week

Jean-Luc Petitrenaud introduces a new generation of bon vivants to the French art of cooking and eating well.

FRANCE’S CULTURAL PROGRAM to promote

French cuisine and spark an interest in gastronomy was launched in Macau on the 28th of October. Known as La Semaine

du Goût (Taste Week), it was created by French TV personality and food writer Jean-Luc Petitrenaud as a way to educate children and young adults about how to eat well. In the peaceful gardens of The Seasons restaurant, a beautiful space tucked away in a corner of the Macau University of Science and Technology campus, Petitrenaud met with the press to talk about his vision for La Semaine du Goût in the Greater China region.

“When I came up with the idea for La Semaine du Goût twenty-four years ago, the French Prime Minister, Lionel Jospin, told me, ‘Fine – come to Paris. Bring five hundred chefs and artisans and see if it is a success. But if it does not work out, then we scratch it.’”

Petritrenaud’s plan was simple: a chef would visit a school to explain to the children the importance of using good,

La Semaine du Goût in France

fresh ingredients; to encourage them to recognize and taste different produce; and to think carefully about what they

He continues to keep it simple. A

eat. It worked. La Semaine du Goût was a

bread-making class is a hit with a keen

success, and the program has continued

group of middle school children who

“The most important thing is curiosity,”

to grow. Last year in France around 7,000

love working with the sticky dough. “We

says Petitrenaud. “Don’t just eat mindlessly,

chefs delivered classes to schools all over

explain how to make dough but then we

guzzling like an animal. Think, and look and

France.

let the children shape it however they

wonder about what you eat. I want La Se-

like. They really enjoyed it!”

maine du Goût to spark curiosity in its par-

“ T his year we are bringing the

understand the flavor spectrum within one food group.

program to Asia for the first time,” says

In a tasting class, an attentive chef

ticipants, not just for the cuisine of France

Petitrenaud. “We want to see how the

encourages the children to sniff diffferent

but for the food they encounter wherever

children respond and then next year we

coffee beans and to taste chocolate with

they go. You need to eat with your brain

will make the program bigger.”

different levels of cocoa to help them

and heart as well as your mouth.”

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为推广法国料理并推展烹饪，味觉之周 (La Semaine du Goût) 法国饮食教育活动 10 月 28 日在澳门举行，由法国著名电视人 兼美食评论家 Jean-Luc Petitrenaud 主持， 让儿童与年轻人学习饮食的艺术。 JeanLuc Petitrenaud 在澳门科技大学校园 The Seasons 教学餐厅的宁静庭园中，畅谈他 对大中华区味觉之周的看法。 「二十四年前我想到味觉之周这项计 划，和当时法国总理利昂内尔 · 若斯潘谈过。 他说 ：好，到巴黎来吧，带五百位厨师和 工匠来试试看。但如果不成功，这计画就 一笔勾销。」 Petritrenaud 的 计 划 很 简 单 ：由 一 位 厨师造访学校，和孩子解释优质、新鲜食 材的重要，鼓励他们认识、品尝不同食品， 然后仔细思考自己吃了什么。结果计划奏 效，味觉之周很成功，这几年规模持续扩 大，去年法国就有约 7,000 名厨师造访法 国各地的学校。 「今年这项计划第一 Petritrenaud 说 ： 次在亚洲举办，我们希望看到孩子的反应， 然后明年再扩大举办。」 Petritrenaud 依 然 让 计 划 保 持 单 纯。 其中有堂面包课大受中学生欢迎，大家兴 致勃勃地揉捏湿黏的面团。「我们先说明 怎么制作面团，然后让孩子随自己的意思 切割面团。他们都玩得很高兴！」在食品 鉴赏课中，一位厨师鼓励孩子嗅闻咖啡豆， 并品尝可可含量不同的巧克力，让他们了 解一种食物可以有多种不同程度的风味。 「最要紧的是有好奇 Petitrenaud 说 ： 心，吃的时候要用心，不要像动物一样狼 吞虎咽。吃东西时要思考、观察、懂得欣 赏。我希望味觉之周的活动能燃起参与者 的好奇心，不仅是对法国料理，到任何地 方吃任何食物都一样。吃东西不仅要用嘴 Jean-Luc Petitrenaud

巴，也要用脑、用心。」 flavor dna

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inspired living

登陆香港

molteni, meet hong kong THE ANNOUNCEMENT is more than enough

to get any chef’s heart racing: Molteni stoves are now available in Hong Kong and Macau. The ranges combine beauty and durability, with a shiny enamel finish and sleek brass fittings. Since each is designed to the exact specifications of the professional or home chef who will be using it, no two are the same. If the stove is the heart of the kitchen, none beats stronger than a Molteni. 这项消息足以使所有主厨心跳加速 ：高级 炉具品牌 Molteni 已正式登陆香港及澳门。 Molteni 炉具美观与耐用兼具，搪瓷炉面闪 根据专业主厨与家庭厨房实际需求量身订做， 保证独一无二。如果说炉具是厨房的心脏， 那么最强而有力的非 Molteni 莫属！ +852 2915 0250, www.madison-asia.com

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COURTESY OF MOLTENI

耀动人，黄铜配件时尚雅致。每组炉具都是

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Christofle’s Jardin d’Eden flatware

inspired living

银烁时空

silver space Mined from the earth, coating satellites in space and formed into the most exquisite tools for us to dine with, silver is versatile and beautiful. Christofle’s Creative Director Stephane Parmentier talks with TK about his favorite element.

§ 自地底采掘而出，可用来制作太空卫星的涂层，也能幻化为餐桌上的优雅器皿，「银」功能多元，美得令人 屏息。银器顶级品牌Christofle创意总监Stephane Parmentier接受TK专访，畅谈银器让他着迷之处。

What is so special about silver?

Silver has antibacterial properties – it naturally kills germs. It is used in the pharmacy industry for this reason – it’s very hygienic. And it is used in space – lots of satellites are made with silver as it has no contaminants. People don’t realize this same timeless element that is used in tableware is also orbiting the earth. That’s why I like silver. It is beautiful, raw and technical all at the same time – a mysterious material. In my job I can explore all the possibilities silver has to offer.

COURTESY OF CHRISTOFLE / VINCENT THIBERT, DEREK HUDSON

How is eating with silver cutlery a different experience?

You feel a different vibration from silver when you put it in your mouth. It almost has a taste. I don’t know if you have ever drunk Champagne from a silver goblet but the sensation is different – creamy and smooth.

Silver conserves heat very well, so it will keep your food hotter on its journey to your mouth. It also helps to retain the cold, so ice cream eaten from a silver spoon won’t melt as quickly. It is magical!

Is silver difficult to care for?

Some people are afraid to use silver. A hundred years ago we had servants to clean our silver. The new generation may worry that it is difficult to look after but you can put Christofle flatware in the dishwasher – you always could. It’s wonderful when beautiful objects have a function. The combination means you can use them in your life and to use beauty is an idea I love. That is what Christofle is for. You should use silver flatware every day.

Stephane Parmentier

银的特别之处？ 银有抗菌的特性，自然有杀菌效果， 也因其高度卫生，常为制药产业所用。银 连在外太空也不缺席，可用来制作卫星， 屏除所有污染源。很多人可能完全没有想 到，桌上的餐具与围绕地球运转的卫星用 的都是同一种经典材质。银集美丽、天然 未加工及科技于一身，散发不可思议的气 息，让我心醉不已。也因工作关系，我得 以一探银器蕴含的各种可能性。

用银制餐具用餐的不同之处？ 银制餐具放入嘴里产生不一样的振动， 仿若携带独特味道。有用银杯喝过香槟的 话就知道，入口的感觉绵密又滑顺，令人 惊艳。银器的保温及保冷性均无懈可击， 熟食入口前保证温热温度不易流失 ；冰淇 淋用银汤匙大快朵颐时融化速度也较慢， 简直只能用神奇两字形容！

inspired living

Christofle is nearly two hundred years old. How do you draw on all that tradition in the 21st century?

For me modernity and tradition are just two different expressions of the same face.

My interpretation of modernity is eclecticism, a new generosity, sharing, working a different way, having a new approach to things. We are working with the same material we used two hundred years ago – silver. And we are drawing on the know-how and techniques from nearly two centuries of experience. That won’t change. But what we are changing is how we present it. It’s a little like cooking.

With the same ingredients everybody creates their own recipes in their own styles. We want to express that through silver.

Modernity for me is a snapshot of time, of what is happening now. With our designs we keep to our core values of elegance, but we express the period of time through our work. And it is interesting, because you can mix 19th century Christofle pieces with our latest ranges on the same table and it works beautifully. Eclecticism is modern – people enjoy it. I love it when tables feel free, when people can express themselves by playing with how they arrange things.

What’s your favorite piece of cutlery?

I love specific tools for specific jobs, the ones people don’t know about. We have beautiful lobster forks, ice cream spoons with squared edges, delicate strawberry spoons and large rice spoons. These items are like the eccentric members of your family – they have a lot of character. I love this

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extravagance, the decadence of having one spoon for one purpose.

Could you share an example of how Christofle has combined tradition and modernity in one of its designs?

Our biggest revolution is with the Jardin d’Eden range. The blade of the knife is engraved using a laser – this modern technology. But the pattern is reminiscent of baroque style. The elegance is traditional and glorious, with acanthus leaves and a sense of lush foliage in the design. What is really different about this range is that the back of the spoon is engraved. There is a cultural reason for this. In France, when we lay the table we place the spoons with their rounded backs uppermost. This gives us a beautiful surface to play with, so we decorate it. But there is a real challenge to engrave a curved surface and we had to find a state-of-the-art machine to ensure that the engraving was equal all over the area – that is tough to do!

But you have this marriage of cutting edge technology and antique design. The designer understood how to express modernity and tradition in one item.

What is your vision for the future of Christofle – what would you like to see next?

In the future I would like to see flatware that transcends all traditional, religious and cultural boundaries and suits different foods from different countries. This could be the future: something that pleases the whole planet.

和 我 们 分 享 一 下 您 最 爱 的 餐 具。 我喜欢大家还摸不太清楚、有特殊目的性 的工具，像是造型美仑美奂的龙虾叉、边 角正方的冰淇淋匙、精致的草莓匙及大型 的饭匙等，都是属于家中餐具里的异类， 个个风格独具。单只汤匙只为特种目的而 制，这种奢华及气势让我只能说大呼过瘾。 Christofle 结合传统及现代的设计，是否 有实例可分享？ Jardin d’Eden 是我们最具突破性的系 列，刀锋以最新科技雷射所刻制，画的却 是浓浓巴洛克风格的图腾。传统又突显辉 煌历史，上面还有莨苕叶及枝繁叶茂的意 象。系列汤匙背面以雕刻制成，可说是系 列的最大不同。法国的餐桌文化中，汤匙 背面上摆，浑圆的匙杓正可让我们挥洒、 装饰的尽善尽美。但要在弧形的匙杓上雕 刻可没那么容易，技术最先进的机台才能 让表面刻画保持一致，可谓得来不易！但 成果极好，正是最新科技及仿古设计的最 佳结合。设计师于银器中融合现代及传统 于一身，功力了得。

您对 Christofle 的愿景为何，对未来的期 盼？ 我希望餐具在未来能突破传统、宗教 及文化藩篱，一体适用于各国风味不同的 特色料理。这或许是大势所趋 ：一种东西 走遍天下，不管是谁都能取悦。

COURTESY OF CHRISTOFLE / VINCENT THIBERT, LUX PRODUCTIONS

Christofle’s etched silver Graffiti Tray

银器是否难以保养？ 有些人很怕用银器，几百年前还有专 门清理银器的仆人，但时序来到现代，大 家 可 能 担 心 保 养 会 很 麻 烦。 不 过 要 清 洗 Christofle 餐具其实很简单，随时放进洗碗 机就能搞定。器皿赏心悦目，同时功能性强， 可说再完美不过了。美的事物用于日常生 活中，我绝对双手赞成。这正是 Christofle 的理念，银制餐具就该每天使用。

Christofle 有将近两百年的历史。如何将 历年传统与 21 世纪的创新作法完美融合？ 现代这个概念有点像是抓住发生在当 下的吉光片羽。对我而言，就是兼容并蓄， 以海纳百川的心态相互分享、尝试不同的 做事方式及创新手法。我们自前人的秘诀 及技术中汲取经验，两百年来始终如一， 不同之处在于呈现方式。设计保留品牌一 贯优雅的核心风格，又呈现出当代特色。 混搭着品牌的 19 世纪和最新系列餐具，想 来就趣味无限，恣意排列餐具组合，餐桌 上毫无禁锢，正是我所乐见的。

Christofle’s Commodore flatware

inspired living

小美食家之礼

gifts for little gourmets Stylish ideas for the child connoisseur in your life

Fresco Bloom Baby Chair

Mono Kids Smile Set

Tiffany 1837™ Baby Cup

A fully-adjustable throne that will fit in any modern kitchen. 给孩子的宝座，调整方便，风格 时尚，完美融入用餐空间。

The circles at the base of the utensils help little hands grip. 餐具顶端的圆形造型让小手更好抓握。

Swap sippy cups for sophisticated sterling silver. 有了精致的纯银杯，谁还要吸管杯？

£65

HKD41,500

£470. Available exclusively online,

www.mono.de

+852 2845 9853

www.johnlewis.com

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zh.tiffany.com

佳节特色小物

christmas staples Getting into the holiday spirit with beautiful basics

NOËL Annual Ornament, clear

Raynaud “Attraction” Coffee Cup

Start a new tradition of commemorating every Christmas with a special ornament.

Pour hot chocolate into this candy cane-striped cup and drink up the flavors of the season.

今年起，用新巧饰品来为 圣诞节锦上添花吧!

在拐杖糖条纹杯里倒入热呼呼的巧克 力，喝一口洋溢浓浓节庆味的幸福。

HKD1,000,

HKD1,270.

+852 2895 6001

www.baccarat.com

+852 2530 0686

www.heatherandmarch.com

La Maison du Chocolat Holiday Macaron Gift Box The shimmery gold box opens to reveal six macarons – perfect for snacking or tucking underneath the tree. 打开金光闪闪的礼盒，六个美 丽的马卡龙映入眼帘，这是节 庆小点的好选择，也适合摆在 圣诞树下作为甜蜜礼物。 HKD180.

NOËL Courchevel Fir Tree Short on time (or space) this holiday season? Set out this stunning cut crystal pine and consider the decorating done. 没时间（或空间）为佳节作准 备？这株优雅美丽的水晶圣诞 树，省下您装饰的烦恼。 HKD2,900,

+852 2895 6001

www.baccarat.com

+852 2196 8333

www.lamaisonduchocolat.com

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food art

凤巢稀宝

from the nest of a phoenix Illustrations of cinnamon and nutmeg merchants from a 15th century French herbal hint at the central importance of spices in the Medieval European pantry.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, spices from the East were at the heart of

在 15 世纪法国草本志的一幅肉桂及肉豆蔻

fashionable dining in Europe. The combination of sweet and sour

商人图像中，展现了香料于中古世纪欧洲

flavors prevalent today in dishes from China, India and Southeast

餐桌上的不凡地位。中世纪的欧洲，远从

Asia provides insight into the taste palette of upper-class

东方而来的香料可说是餐桌上的亮点，是

medieval Europeans. While all imported spices were highly prized

流行时髦的代名词。现今在中国、印度及

and priced in Medieval Europe – they were used predominately

东南亚一带，常见的甜酸调味为上流阶层

by the upper classes to impress banquet guests – there was

贵客的味蕾带来全新感受。进口的香料在

a hierarchy of importance. Pepper was king. Europeans who

当时备受推崇、所费不赀，成为了上流社

could afford to had been adding it to almost every dish since

会用来宴客的不二之选。各种香料间还有

Ancient Roman times. Also topping the purchase lists of Venetian

排行，胡椒正是其中的王道。自罗马时代

traders, physicians and castle cooks were ginger, cloves, nutmeg,

起，欧洲人可说无胡椒不欢，买得起的几

cinnamon and locally produced saffron.

乎每道菜都要加上这一味。另外姜、丁香、

For Europeans, the origins of most spices were steeped in

肉豆蔻、肉桂及地方所产的番红花也在香

mystery, and this aura of the exotic contributed significantly to

料榜中名列前茅，大受威尼斯商人、医师

their popularity. Arab traders, who controlled the spice routes

或庄园城堡大厨们的青睐。

and dominated exportation during the Middle Ages, actively

当时欧洲人对于大部分香料的来源一

propagated the numerous fantastical tales that European

无所知，而此种异国的神秘感正是让东方

consumers bought into with relish. According to one story,

香料身价不凡、大受欢迎的原因。香料进

giant birds made their nests from huge cinnamon sticks on

出口路径及生意一手抓的中世纪阿拉伯商

cliffs above beaches in India. Cinnamon hunters were said to

人经商有道，大肆以神话故事包装商品，

leave huge hunks of meat on the beach which the birds would

让欧洲贵客们听得津津有味。其中一个故

take back to their nests. The weight of the meat would cause

事讲到印度的巨鸟在海滩边的悬崖上用偌

a nest to collapse and fall to the ground where the sticks could

大肉桂枝筑巢，猎人们意在肉桂，便于海

be collected. Flying snakes, vengeful bats, phoenixes and

滩上摆放大块肉片引诱巨鸟衔叼回巢，趁

human sacrifices to various gods featured in other, ever more

鸟巢承受不住肉块重量翻覆时，捡拾散落

fantastical accounts of spice acquisition.

于地的肉桂枝。其他还有融入飞天大蛇、

Europe. The miniatures featured here, which come from a

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复仇的蝙蝠、凤凰，甚至真人献祭天神等 与香料相关杜撰的奇幻传说。

DEAGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/SCALA, FLORENCE

Medicine, spices and cooking were intertwined in Medieval

food art

15th century French herbal, depict nutmeg and cinnamon

医药、香料及料理三者于中古欧洲可

merchants with their highly profitable produce laid out in

说息息相关，从这 15 世纪法国草本志中的

front of them. Herbals are a group of manuscripts that contain

微型画中即可略知一二，描绘的正是商人

illustrations of plants, animals and minerals, and information

眼前尽是肉豆蔻及肉桂、大发利市的景象。

about natural remedies. The manuals were essential not only

草本志中的手抄页详载了各式植物、动物

for physicians and apothecaries – spices including those used

及矿物的图解以及自然植物疗法的各种资

for cooking were typically sold in apothecary shops – but

讯，不仅被医师及药剂师奉为重要的参考

were also consulted by housekeepers and cooks. Recipes and

来源，也是家管或厨师不可或缺的宝典。

shopping lists for healthful ingredients have been found slipped

内载的食用香料通常能在药草店找得到。

into the back pages of many of the old volumes.

不少草本志旧籍还常能看到前人留下的健 西方医学史家认为，中古世纪以体液

Greek physician Hippocrates. Humoralists taught that the

学说为大宗。此医学理论相传源于古希腊

body contains four humors: black bile, yellow bile, phlegm and

医师西波克拉底 (Hippocrates)，后由罗马

blood. To determine the health of a person, physicians linked

医学专家及哲学家加兰 (Galen) 著述发扬

these humors with the theory of the four elements and with

光大。体液学说相信人体由黑胆汁、黄胆

four distinct temperaments and qualities. In Medieval cooking

汁、黏液及血液组成，医师可借四大元素

every foodstuff, spices included, was assigned a quality. Fish,

相关的脾性及特质来诊断一个人的健康状

for example, was classified as cold and moist, while cinnamon

况。中世纪每种食品以及香料都冠有某种

was hot and dry. To counter any troublesome digestive issues

特质，举例而言，鱼的特质便是阴寒及潮湿，

that might be caused by the phlegmatic fish, dishes featuring

而肉桂是温热及干燥。要解决黏湿鱼类导

seafood were commonly served drowned in a cinnamon-based

致的各式消化问题，就可端出淋上 sauce

sauce called sauce cameline .

cameline 肉桂酱汁的海鲜食用。

It was from the spice trade that the Age of Discovery was

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康食材食谱及采购清单夹杂其后。

dominated by humoralism, a theory credited to the Ancient

香料贸易引发后来的地理大发现时代。

born. European naval fleets grew substantially in the hunt for

欧洲船舰为了追寻以肉桂及肉豆蔻为主的

the sources of spices, cinnamon and nutmeg in particular, and

香料而出海，势力逐渐茁壮，也随之引进

knowledge of new religions, cultures and geography seeped

全新的宗教、文化及地理概念，一点一滴

into the European consciousness. In the late 15th century, the

注入中古世纪的欧洲大陆。 15 世纪末，葡

Portuguese made their way to the native homes of nutmeg (the

萄牙舰队终于远航至肉豆蔻 ( 东帝汶的摩

Moluccas Islands in East Indonesia) and cinnamon (Sri Lanka).

鹿加群岛 ) 及肉桂 ( 斯里兰卡 ) 的故乡，找

They seized control of the market, toppling the monopoly

到阿拉伯商人隐藏数世纪的香料群岛，并

held by the Arab traders who had kept the locations secret

打破其独大局面，取而代之掌控此市场长

for centuries. The Dutch and English took the lands from the

达数百年。 16 世纪则接连易手于荷兰及英

Portuguese in the 1600s and, with direct sea routes to Europe

国，建立航线直抵欧洲，就此揭开了东方

established and the origin myths dispelled, the once rare spices

香料的神秘面纱。从此，一度激发无穷想像、

that had captured the imaginations and furthered the social

促使上流阶层社交流动的珍稀香料也步下

aspirations of the upper classes became commonplace.

殿堂，走入寻常人家。

TK | flavor dna

DEAGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/SCALA, FLORENCE

Western medical thinking in the Middle Ages was

food champions

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巅峰角逐

the last supper At this year’s Restaurant & Bar Hong Kong exhibition, young chefs from all across Asia gathered to compete for the region’s Disciples Escoffier Young Talent Trophy and the right to compete in the global final in France.

FOUR MAKESHIFT KITCHENS stand in the center of a stage at Hong Kong’s convention and exhibition center. Each is outfitted with identical equipment and supplied with identical ingredients. Each is occupied by an intensely concentrated young chef. They’ve been cooking and competing for three days.

Of the eight finalists from eight countries who came to take part in the Asian final of the Disciples Escoffier Young Talent Trophy, only these four remain.

A line of tables flanks the kitchen counters: this is where the team of judges will sit and taste the dishes created by the contestants. An audience of press, chefs and interested passersby sit on benches watching the chefs as they quietly and methodically try to channel the spirit of August Escoffier, the great chef whose landmark 1903 cookbook, Le Guide Culinaire, revolutionized and modernized culinary techniques.

Eyck Zimmer, President of the Disciples Escoffier Delegation Hong Kong, keeps his eyes fixed firmly on the contestants as he explains what it takes to win: “We judge organization, hygiene, wastage, technical skills and precision in their cooking. But the texture and flavor of the food is what separates an exceptional cook from an ordinary one. … You need to have a certain determination. You can’t just compete. You need to want to win.”

The first two rounds of this final saw the competitors making a simple-sounding poached egg mignon in a prawn sauce, then a traditional salmon à la meunière. “Poaching

香港会议展览中心的舞台上搭起了四间活 动厨房，每间都配备了相同的设备和食材， 而每间厨房里都有一位年轻厨师在紧张忙 碌着。细细数来，这已经是他们的第三个 比赛日了。八位来自八个不同地区的选手 在埃科菲青年厨师大赛亚洲区决赛竞争出 线，只剩最后四位精英角逐冠军宝座。 厨房边排了一列桌子，稍后评审就会 坐在这里，品尝参赛菜肴。一列列长凳会 坐满记者、其他厨师与受吸引的路人，欣 赏选手们举止镇定、有条不紊地一展厨艺， 努力发挥奥古斯特 ‧ 埃科菲 (August Escoffier) 的精神。厨艺大师 Escoffier 在 1903 年写出划时代的料理圣经《烹饪指南》(Le Guide Culinaire)，革新料理技术，催生了 现代化烹饪。 Escoffier 的 弟 子 Eyck Zimmer 为 埃 科 菲国际厨师协会香港分会主席，他目不转 睛地盯着选手，同时解释评审标准 ： 「评判 标准是烹饪的条理掌握、卫生、取量、技 巧及精确程度，但想脱颖而出还需靠食物 的口感与风味 , 选手必须有决心，不能只 是志在参加，要渴求胜利。」 决赛前两轮的比试项目是听起来简单 的水波蛋菲力牛排佐鲜虾酱汁，以及传统 的法式香煎三文鱼。有人问为什么选这几 样菜作为考验，埃科菲国际厨师协会东盟 主席 Robert Fontana 表示 ： 「水波蛋听起来 简单，但要做得好不容易，时间必须掌握 得非常精确。他们还得知道怎么煮好朝鲜 蓟、怎么把鱼切片。这些步骤 Escoffier 在 他的书里阐述得很清楚，年轻厨师应该好 好研读，反覆练习传统技巧。」 剩下的四位参赛者现在要烤出恰到好 处的五分熟牛排，中间是多汁的粉红色， 外表焦脆一分不差。另外搭配法式伯那西 flavor dna

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food champions

an egg sounds simple but it is hard to pull off. You have to get the timing exactly right,” says Asian Chairman of Escoffier Robert Fontana when asked why these dishes were selected to test the young chefs. “They also have to know how to prepare an artichoke perfectly, how to fillet a fish. Escoffier set all this out in his Guide. These chefs have to study him and know the traditional techniques backwards and forwards.”

Now, the four remaining contestants must prepare a perfect steak, served medium rare, with a juicy center done nicely pink and the outside cooked just right to produce a dark caramelized crust. The steak is served with a béarnaise sauce, a classic Escoffier recipe requiring the chefs to work with steady hands as they combine egg yolks with a reduction of vinegar and tarragon and then add clarified butter over slow heat – get it wrong and the sauce may not cohere or fail to achieve the perfect creamy consistency.

The scent of searing beef wafts over to the audience as the judges take their seats.

There is a strict time frame. Eyck is unrelenting on punctuality. “Chefs need to make food when guests want it – not when they feel like it. It’s absolutely essential to get the

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timing right. One of the important things to factor in when cooking steak, is the amount of time the meat needs to rest before serving.

The muscle fibers in the meat contract and you need to give them time to relax again, so the meat is tender to eat.”

The chefs slice the meat and hands shake with nerves as they finish their plates.

Macau’s chef whisks his béarnaise to a glossy thickness, tastes and pours. Vietnam’s chef, the only woman remaining in the competition, drags a spoonful of jus in a perfect line across her plate. The dishes are brought out and presented to the chefs who share a plate between two. The first thing they do is to check the warmth of the plates to ensure the food has been served piping hot. Their faces are stern as they sniff, prod and chew the meat. Spectators and competitors look on anxiously.

The contest doesn’t end with the steak.

The final hurdle is for the chefs to prove their pastry-making skills. “Pastry chef is actually a separate discipline,” explains Eyck, himself a pastry chef. “But all chefs need to know how to make basic desserts to a high standard.”

The dish the contestants are preparing for their tough audience is a tarte flan aux

pommes a la bataliere – a layered confection of pastry, sliced apples and creamy rice pudding topped with a delicate meringue. As the contestants set to work, the open kitchen fills with the sweet fragrance of apples frying gently in butter and spicy cinnamon.

The apple tarts are paraded past the judges, then sliced and presented for tasting. The judges are looking for taste and texture, for a fine balance between the crumbly pasty, the silky meringue, the apples with just enough but not too much cinnamon, and the sweet nubbly texture of the rice.

South Korea’s tart is producing murmurs of approval. “Nicely golden,” says one judge.

“He’s put just the right amount of rice pudding on top,” says another. Tempting aromas tease the audience and everybody watches the judges as they taste and think and take notes, before retiring to a back room to discuss their findings.

The four finalists are pale-faced and jittery after a solid three hours of hard and focused cooking. “When I am at work I am part of a team,” says Chris Wong, Hong Kong’s entrant. “I can ask other people in the team for advice and help. But in a competition like this I am all on my own in a strange kitchen.” They all admit to nerves and to their great desire to claim the Young Talent Trophy and to represent Asia while competing at the global final in France, where the great Escoffier once reigned.

Finally the judges appear to announce a winner. South Korea’s Lee Yon Yong has done it with his perfectly balanced tart, which perfectly embodied the light refinement of Escoffier’s classic recipe.

“I cannot believe that I am the victor of this competition. I just used traditional cooking skills,” says the champion. He looks surprised but beams proudly. “My coach told me to focus on taste and basic skills. I know my cooking doesn’t use enough salt, so I taste it.”

And how will he prepare for the global final in France?

“I’ll just keep practicing over and over.

Competitions really stimulate my mind. I love this one.”

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food champions

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(béarnaise) 酱汁，这是 Escoffier 书中的经 典酱汁，将蛋黄拌入香醋与龙蒿汁，然后 用小火边煮边加入澄清奶油，在烹饪过程 中厨师双手必须保持稳定。如果出错，酱 汁可能无法融合或达到完美的稠度。 烧烤牛肉的香味飘到观众席，评审也 纷纷就坐。竞赛有严格的时间要求，Eyck 对遵守时限一事一丝不苟。「厨师要在客人 要求的时间料理完成，而非等到自己满意 ； 要掌握时机，这点非常基本。料理牛肉时， 一定要考虑到牛肉必须在上菜前静置一段 时间。因刚烤好的肉的组织纤维会收缩， 必须松弛一段时间，尝起来才会软嫩。 」 料理完毕后，厨师用颤抖的手切下牛 肉。澳门选手搅拌出一锅充满光泽、美味 的浓稠伯那西酱汁 ；越南代表是比赛中剩 下唯一的女选手，她舀起一杓酱汁，在盘 上画出一道完美的线条。菜肴端上后由两 位评委共同点评一盘，评审第一件事是检 查盘子的温度，确保食物端上时都是热腾 腾的，然后认真严肃地嗅闻、戳刺、咀嚼 牛肉。选手和观众都在一旁紧张地看着。 牛排过后便是比赛最后一关。选手要 展现自己制作糕点的技术。 Eyck 本身就是 一位糕点师傅，他说 ： 「糕点实际上是另外 一门学问，但是所有的厨师都该知道怎么 做出高品质的基本甜点。」 选手接下这些难讨好的评审指派的任 务，制作卡士达苹果挞 (tarte flan aux pommes a la bataliere)。这份糕点有多层次的酥 皮、苹果薄片、香浓布丁馅，加上精巧的 蛋白霜。参赛者着手开始制作，用黄油与 辛香肉桂微煎苹果，甜美的香气溢满了开 放式厨房。 苹果挞在评审间传递轮流检阅，然后 切片品尝。评审注意的是味道与口感，挞 皮要酥脆、蛋白霜要丝滑、苹果的肉桂用 量要合宜，米布丁要有甜甜的颗粒口感， 一切必须拿捏地恰如其分。南韩选手的作 品激起评审低声赞美，一位评审说 ： 「外表 金黄，烤得很漂亮。」另一位说 ： 「他放上 的米布丁分量刚刚好。」诱人的香味挑逗着 每一位观众，评审继续在大家面前品尝、 思考、做笔记，接着聚集到后面的房间开 始讨论。 足足三小时的比赛相当吃重，必须全 神贯注，结束后选手各个脸色苍白、惴惴 不安。香港选手黄翊铭说 ： 「我平常在团队 中工作，可以问团队中其他人的意见或寻

South Korea’s Lee Yon Yong

求帮助。但是在比赛里，一切都要靠自己。」 每个人都承认非常紧张，但同时也非常渴 望夺牌，以代表亚洲到 Escoffier 曾扬威立 万的法国参加世界大赛。 最后评审宣布，南韩选手 Lee Won Yon 的苹果挞完美体现 Escoffier 经典食谱中清 爽优雅的风格，达到完美的平衡，因此获 得最后的优胜。

Lee Won Yon 看起来很惊讶，但也很自 豪，他说 ： 「我真不敢相信自己赢了比赛， 我只用了传统的烹饪技巧。教练要我注意 味道与基本技巧，我知道自己下的盐不够， 所以我会注意尝味道。」 至于他会怎么准备法国的全球总决赛？ 「我会继续一遍又一遍地练习。比赛真 的能激励我，我很喜欢。」 flavor dna

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FEATURE

茶香加琴酒 混调创意

g & tea Beefeater Gin Ambassador Tim Stones explains why gin should be everyone’s very British cup of tea.

“JAMES BOND NEVER DRANK Vodka mar-

tinis – that was a concept invented by Hollywood,” asserts Beefeater Gin Ambassador Tim Stones. “If you read Ian Fleming’s books, you will see that Bond drank Vespers: two parts gin, one vodka and a little Kina Lillet. Gin is the best spirit. James Bond, most bartenders and I will agree on that.”

Stones believes gin can pair with just about anything, that the number of complex flavors in the spirit allow it to meld with chocolate and cream to create a fancy Gin Alexander, or to combine with bitter herbal Campari in the grown-up flavors of a classic Negroni. Beefeater London Dry Gin has always been popular with bartenders and drinkers. Since 2009, Beefeater 24, a premium dry London gin with interesting green tea and sencha tea notes, has been winning new devotees, and accolades like a gold medal at the 2010 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

“This was the brainchild of Beef­eater’s master distiller Desmond Payn­ e,” says

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Stones. “He was inspired by trips he made to Asia, where he often found the local tonic water too sweet to mix with gin for a traditional G and T. He started to use chilled green tea as a mixer, which worked so beautifully that he then decided to add tea as a botanical in his new gin blend. Beefeater 24 has a higher alcohol content than many gins because the delicate flavors of the tea need more stability. The higher the alcohol content, the brighter the botanicals can shine.”

“Tea has thousands of flavor compounds,” says Stones. “Like gin, it works well with all sorts of regular ingredients. Combining tea and gin allows even more scope for mixing drinks.” Stones doesn’t stop at using tea as a mixer – he infuses gin with tea leaves, and makes tea syrups which add beautiful aromas to his cocktails.

The name Beefeater comes from the nickname given to the English soldiers who guard the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. Officially known as Yeomen Warders, Beefeaters wear distinctive midnight

blue and bright red uniforms. In addition to guarding the jewels and any prisoners who may be in the Tower, they look after the welfare of the black ravens that patrol the grounds. Ravens have lived in the Tower for centuries and it is believed that if they ever leave, the British Monarchy and the tower itself will crumble and fall. To avoid this unfortunate outcome, one of the Beefeaters trims the ravens’ wing feathers so they are grounded within the Tower walls.

Beefeater 24 gin comes in an attractive bottle which hints at this exceptional heritage.

The cap is striped to mimic the regular uniform of the Beefeaters. A small raven is visible through the gin on the back of the main label.

The red on the label represents the Black Prince Ruby, the egg-sized gem mounted at the front of the British Monarch’s crown.

“The Beefeaters have their own pub,” says Stones. “It’s inside the Tower grounds not too far from Traitor’s gate.” And what is their favorite drink? “Beefeater gin and tonic of course! They love it!”

spirits

琴酒究竟有何魔力，可以当成属于每个人 的英国茶，英人牌琴酒大使 Tim Stones 为 大家道说分明。 「007 詹姆士 · 庞德其实从来不喝伏特 加马丁尼，那是好莱坞加上去的玩意儿」 ， 英人牌琴酒 (Beefeater Gin) 大使 Tim Stones 讲得斩钉截铁。「在 Ian Fleming 的原著小 说中，庞德喝的是由两份琴酒、一份伏特 加及些许 Kina Lillet 开胃酒调成的 Vespers。 说到最棒的烈酒，琴酒当之无愧，包括庞 德、绝大部分的调酒师及我本人都可以打 包票。 」 琴酒蕴含多种繁复的味道，可与巧克 力及奶油混调出特级的琴酒亚历山大 (Gin Alexander)，或加上带苦味的草本金巴利酒 (Campari)，就是经典成人口味的内格罗尼 (Negroni)，几乎无所不搭。 Beefeater 干琴 酒向来是调酒师及爱酒人士的首选。顶级 干伦敦琴酒「Beefeater 24」散发着引人入 胜的绿茶及煎茶韵味，自 2009 年推出至今

已掳获不少酒迷的心，更曾勇夺 2010 年旧 金山世界烈酒大赛金牌的殊荣，大获业界 人士好评。 说到「Beefeater 24」，Stones 表示： 「这 可是 Beefeater 首席蒸馏师 Desmond Payne 呕心沥血之作。某次亚洲之行，他想做经 典调酒琴通宁 (G and T)，无奈当地的通宁 水味道过甜，而后他突发奇想加入冰绿茶， 调和出的味道让人惊艳，而后才决定在新 酿酒品中加入草本茶类做为引子。正因为 渗入细微的茶味，Beefeater 24 酒精成分也 需较一般琴酒高，才能使酒体稳定。酒精 成分越高，越可衬出内含的草本精华。」 Stones 解释 ： 「茶有数千种复合味道， 就像琴酒一样，与各种成分都能配合的完 美无缺。琴酒配茶更是大大拓展混酒调制 的可能性。」除了拿茶来调酒，他也用琴酒 泡浸茶叶，特制茶茗糖浆，为鸡尾酒增添 一股迷人香气。 品牌取名自专职守卫伦敦塔的皇家珠

MILANG NEGRONI

LAPSANG MARTINEZ Martini glass (马丁尼杯) 45ml Beefeater 24 30ml Sweet Vermouth (甜苦艾酒) 15ml Lapsang Souchong Syrup (正山小种红茶糖浆) Stirred and strained into a chilled martini glass and garnished with lemon twist. 拌搅过筛倒入马丁尼冰杯， 再缀以柠檬片卷即可。

宝屋「御用侍卫 (Yeomen Warder)」的绰号 「Beefeater」。侍卫们一身午夜蓝及亮红制 服，相当显眼。他们的职责，除了负责看 守珠宝及塔内囚犯外，也包括照料长年流 连于塔内的黑渡鸦。渡鸦于塔中历史已有 数百年之久，相传渡鸦若离塔而去，英国 皇室及伦敦塔也将颓圮、一蹶不振。侍卫 中有专人负责修剪渡鸦翅膀上的羽毛，让 其无法飞离塔墙，希望借此永保王室繁荣。 「Beefeater 24」瓶身设计以上述的传 统故事为灵感，造型相当别致。瓶帽呈条 纹状，象征侍卫的制服，透过晶莹剔透的 酒体仔细一看，还能发现瓶身贴标背面有 只小型渡鸭。贴标上红色代表的则是大小 有如鸡蛋一般、镶于王室皇冠正面的「黑 王子红宝石」。Stones 也进一步透露 ： 「御 用侍卫还有专属的酒吧，就在底层、离叛 徒门没多远。」问到他们最爱的酒是甚么？ Stones 胸有成竹的表示 ： 「当然是 Beefeater 琴通宁！那是他们的最爱！」

THAI BALL Highball glass (高球杯) 50ml Beefeater 24 20ml lemon juice (柠檬汁) 20ml homemade syrup of lemon grass and ginger (自制柠檬草及姜糖水) Topped with iced green tea and garnished with a slice of lemon and lemon grass. 倒入些许冰绿茶， 缀以柠檬片及柠檬草即可。

Tumbler (平底酒杯) 45ml Beefeater 24 25ml Sweet Vermouth (甜苦艾酒) 8ml Aperol 8ml Campari (金巴利酒)

Origin Bar 48 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街48号 FLAVOR DNA | TK |

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presented by krug

香槟之王与蟹肉美馔

Krug and the Culinary Crab TK shares crab dishes and chef musings from a newly released book: Krug’s sideways look at the culinary crab.

presented by krug

Mini Boudin of Crab and Couscous in Minestrone of “Kegani” 迷你蟹肉肠及「毛蟹」北非小米鲜蔬汤

Fast food? It is convenient, cheap and sometimes it tastes good ( because of its strong tastes) but it is unhealthy. Who do you consider the world’s best chef(s)/ restaurant? The best chef must have a passion for food, be creative and have a good personality. What is your best recipe? Japanese rice with natto [a fermented soybean]. Your favorite ingredient? Game such as wild hare and woodcock. I would make Braised Hare and Roast Woodcock. Food reviews? Food reviews can accelerate the food quality and service of restaurants. Your own guilty food indulgence? Potato chips. Picky eaters? Each person grows up differently in different environments so they often have a different understanding of taste, needs and requirements. I respect a customer’s needs. Food trends?

Food trends change every one or two years. I don’t follow the popular trends of the times, as I prefer to focus on what is best for my customers in terms of menu design and using fresh ingredients. 速食？方便、便宜，或许味道重的关系吧，但就是不健康。 心目中世界级的最佳厨师或餐厅？顶级厨师要对食物有热 情、有创意，同时个性要好。最棒的食谱？日本米加纳豆 ( 发 酵大豆 )。最爱的食材？像是野兔或山鹬之类的野味，我会 做成炖兔肉或烤山鹬。对美食评论有何意见？可以加速料理 品质及餐厅服务的成长速度。私底下常偷吃什么东西为乐？

不同，吃东西的口味、需求及要求当然也不尽相同。我尊重 每个顾客所需。料理趋势？趋势每一两年都在变，我不会盲 目跟随最新流行，会以顾客所需为出发点来设计最好的菜单 或运用新鲜的食材。

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ANDREW J LOITERTON

洋芋片。碰到挑剔的客人怎么办？每个人成长背景和环境都

Mitsuru Konishi EXECUTIVE CHEF, WAGYU TAKUMI, HONG KONG

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Uwe Opocensky

EXECUTIVE CHEF, MANDARIN ORIENTAL , HONG KONG

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presented by krug

Crab Tacos 蟹肉玉米卷

Fast food? I don’t really like fast food chains but I love simple stuff like roast chicken from Pizza Express. What is your best recipe? I don’t have one and I don’t like to live in the past. The best recipe I have is the one I don’t know yet... The most treasured one is from my grandmother. Your favorite ingredient(s)? Garlic salt and olive oil. Your own guilty food indulgence? I love chocolates – always have and always will! Local wet markets? I love wet markets and I hope HK will do more for them. I wish we could have beautiful markets and food vans like in Europe. There is amazing produce that this region has to give. Picky eaters?

As long as I can, I will accommodate whatever is requested; however, I am not a magician! Food trends? Trends are interesting but they come and go. If they fit into what we are doing that is great. Without trends there would be no change and no new ideas. 速食？连锁速食餐厅不对我的胃口，反倒是 Pizza Express 烤 鸡那样简单的东西比较对味。最棒的食谱？我没有，我也不 喜欢活在过去，最好的食谱我现在尚未找到 … 不过最珍惜的 算是祖母的老食谱。最爱的食材？蒜盐和橄榄油。私底下常 偷吃什么东西为乐？我超爱巧克力，过去如此，以后也不会 变！地方湿货市场如何？我好喜欢湿货市场，也希望香港多 花些心思来发展，类似欧洲的漂亮市集或行动餐车都不错。

ANDREW J LOITERTON

这些地区产出不少品质一流的农产品。碰到挑剔的客人怎么 办？能力范围内，我会尽可能满足顾客需求 ；话是这么说， 我也不是万能魔术师就是啦！料理趋势？趋势来来去去，其 实很有趣，刚好和我们做的不谋而合那当然很棒。可以说没 有趋势就没有变化，也无法萌生新想法了。 flavor dna

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presented by krug

Tourteau, Obsiblue Prawn , Oscietra Caviar , Cauliflower 蟹肉、Obsiblue蓝虾、Oscietra 顶级鱼子​​酱及白花菜

Fast Food? I used to visit fast food chains as a teenager.

However, as I progressed in my career, I realised that what they offer is the exact opposite of my cooking philosophy, which is to present an imaginative and innovative cuisine that celebrates and respects seasonality, terroir and the skills of the world’s best gourmet producers. What is your best recipe? My recipes are always evolving. I enjoy perfecting my dishes day after day, and am in the midst of creating a new dish to incorporate a fantastic seasonal ingredient.

Your favorite ingredient? There are two ingredients I particularly enjoy using: mushrooms and citrus. Mushrooms are an ingredient that I experienced in abundance back in my home country, and working with this ingredient always brings back memories of home. Citrus on the other hand lends a refreshing hint in the taste it adds to dishes as well as the use of it – which is something new for me seeing that this ingredient is more commonly found in Asia. Your own guilty food indulgence? Artisan French cheeses.

师这条路上投注心力越来越多之后，感觉速食店的餐点好 像和自己的料理信念背道而驰。我想要呈现的是带有想像 力的创新菜色，礼赞并且尊重季节时令、各地风土及全球 顶尖美食制造商的专业技术。最棒的食谱为何？我的食谱 无时无刻都在进化当中。每天我都想着如何作到完美，从 中能以最棒的季节食材入菜，创作全新的料理。最爱的食 材？最爱用的两大食材 ：蘑菇和柑橘。我在家乡做菜时总少 不了蘑菇，涵盖面非常丰富，每每用到蘑菇就会让我忆及家 乡。柑橘的话，无论是入菜或单独使用，都能给料理带来清 新的风味，对我来说是新的作法，话说回来柑橘在亚洲也 较常见。私底下常偷吃什么东西为乐？职人手工法式起司。

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速食？青少年时期三不五时会去连锁速食店报到，不过在厨

Julien Royer CHEF DE CUISINE, JAAN, SINGAPORE

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Umberto Bombana

CHEF & OWNER, 8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA, HONG KONG & SHANGHAI

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presented by krug

Crab Meat Salad with Oscietra Caviar 蟹肉沙拉佐 Oscietra 顶级鱼子​​酱

Who do you consider the world’s best chef(s)/restaurant?

For me, I believe that there are many great chefs: I compare them to diamonds – any way you see them, they are beautiful, brilliant. What is your best recipe? Sashimi.

You think this is not a recipe? But let me tell you: three ingredients is one too many. Sashimi you think is easy but you need to have the freshest fish, caught at the right moment; you need to store it correctly; you need to be very skillful to clean the fish; and very skillful to slice the fish. So to me, this is perfection. Your own guilty food indulgence?

I don’t feel guilty. I just accept the consequences. Food trends? All I can say is that often, if a trend goes in one direction – I will go the opposite way. 心目中世界级的最佳厨师或餐厅？世界上有很多厉害的厨 师 ：我喜欢用钻石来比喻－不管从什么角度看都那么美好和 无懈可击。最棒的食谱为何？生鱼片。大家可能想说这哪叫 食谱？不过先听我说 ：光是三种食材就已经够多了。生鱼片

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说来简单，但鱼要绝对新鲜，配合最佳的捕获时间、保存得 当之后，再以娴熟的技巧清洗鱼身及片鱼才行。这才叫完美。 私底下常偷吃什么东西为乐？我都光明正大的吃，一点都不 害臊，也没什么好怕的。料理趋势？可以这么说吧，常常是 现在流行什么，我就偏要反其道而行。

Each featured crab dish is available at the respective chef’s restaurant through the end of 2013. 截至2013年底为止所报导之螃蟹料理于各大主厨的餐厅内均有供应。

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Layers

惊喜层层叠

of Delight

At the Taj Mahal Hotel in New Delhi, India, Varq has earned a reputation as one of Asia’s best restaurants. Executive Chef Amit Chowdhury tickles diners with his eclectic culinary style, combining tradition, elegance, innovation and playfulness.

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tasting destination

Meat Martaban: mutton pieces are combined with red pickled chilies and slow cooked in a ceramic jar to make a meltingly tender stew 风味肉锅：羊肉块加上辛辣红色腌菜，放入陶瓮中炖煮至味道交融，入口即化。

Varqui Crab: a mille feuille concealing delicate morsels of coconut-flavored crab, topped with a delicious tandoori prawn Varqui Crab风味蟹：千层糕镶以精巧的椰子调味蟹肉片，搭配美味的tandoori烤虾。

tasting destination

WELCOMING GUESTS, Executive Chef Amit Chowdhury smiles through a clear bevelled glass window, encased by a black timber lattice frame. He is at the entrance of Varq Indian restaurant, a beautiful space in the Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi. The interior is a stunning blend of traditional and modern. One wall is covered with a bas relief mural painted with vegetable oils back in 1979 by renowned India artist Anjolie Ela Menon. Stylish drum-shaped lampshades, fashioned from hundreds of hand-turned red glass beads, cast a warm light over the dining tables.

“My style of cooking is eclectic, modern Indian cuisine – a mix of authentic Indian tradition and an innovative approach,” says Chef Chowdhury. “The décor of the restaurant reflects that.”

His dishes surprise and delight with unexpected ingredients, innovative cooking techniques and exquisite, witty presentation. “Indian food is a sharing food, served family style. But I was trained to cook European food and I love plated food – it looks superb. So I wondered, ‘Why can’t we plate Indian food too?’”

Chef Chowdhury decided to take traditional dishes and plate them in a modern, elegant manner without compromising his cooking technique or the flavors of the dishes. Four juicy pan-seared prawns are carefully balanced on a disc of saffron rice – a spicy Bengali dish served with hot mustard gravy. Fried edamame beans are dotted around the rice. These beans are a traditional Japanese snack, reinvented by Chef Chowdhury for Varq diners. “Edamame remind me of green peas, crunchy but with a buttery flavor. So I thought, ‘Why can’t we toss these in Indian spices and then have crunchy and buttery flavors too?’”

Chef Chowdhury sometimes gets playful as he experiments. “I created a creamy chickpea soup which is served in a cappuccino cup,” he says. “It looks so realistic one diner said to the waiter: ‘But we didn’t order coffee!’ This soup is very popular now as it is utterly delicious as well as fun to eat.”

Palak Methi Jackfruit: a tri-color tower of juicy jackfruit, spinach and saffron rice topped with shredded leeks and fresh coriander leaves Palak Methi波罗蜜：精选多汁波罗蜜、菠菜及番红花饭做成三色塔，再缀上韭葱片及新鲜胡荽叶。

新德里泰姬玛哈酒店「Varq」印度餐厅环境 优美，透过裱以黑实木格状窗缘的斜面窗 可看到行政主厨 Amit Chowdhury 满脸笑容 站在入口处迎宾。餐厅装潢传统与现代并 重，让人印象深刻。其中一面墙更可看到 印度知名艺术家 Anjolie Ela Menon 在 1979 年以植物性油为原料、挥洒而成的浮雕壁 画作品。鼓状灯罩缀满数百个红色的手工 串珠，造型时尚，在餐桌上映出温暖色调。

Chowdhury 形容自家料理： 「兼容并蓄， 融合道地印度传统及创新手法，是现代风 格的印度美馔。这些元素在餐厅装潢中也 展露无遗。」 他的菜能让人发现意想不到的食材， 令人惊喜，再加上创新技巧和别出心裁的 摆盘，确实有独到之处。他说 ： 「印度菜常 走大家庭风格，让大家一起分享 ；但我受 的是欧洲料理训练，对于盘菜情有独钟， flavor dna

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tasting destination

Executive Chef Amit Chowdhury

Chef Chowdhury also likes to experiment with various kinds of fish. “Sea bass is not a common fish in India, but it has this beautiful flaky quality. People thought they could only get sea bass when they travelled or ate European food. Now they know when they come to Varq they will try something new, but the Indian flavors will always be there. I use scallops and black cod too and think carefully about which Indian spices best complement them. Guests are really tickled.”

This approach appeals to both local and foreign diners. Indian guests can try new ingredients with familiar spices while visitors from abroad experience the flavors of India in a familiar context.

Chef Chowdhury is particularly proud of

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one dish which he cooks in a completely new style. He brings an earthenware jar to the table, the type used by keen home cooks to preserve vegetables. “This is a martaban, a pickle jar,” he explains. “My grandmother used to make pickles and store them in something like this.

But I was inspired to use this receptacle as a cooking pot.” Chunks of flavorful mutton are combined with spicy red pickles and cooked in the jar for over twelve hours. The Meat Martaban that results is a meltingly tender stew with a kick. “All the flavors are sealed in while the dish cooks, so you don’t lose any moisture,” says Chef Chowdhury. “We have taken a home-style method and created something unique. You can’t find a dish like this anywhere other than Varq.”

And what about the name? “Varq means thin layers. It can refer to the thin sheets of beaten, edible silver found on tempting Indian sweets, or the thin layers of beaten gold leaf that dress the ceiling of our restaurant,” says Chef Chowdhury. Delicate flakes of gold or silver varq also appear on some of the dishes. One signature dish – an exquisite concoction of crispy filo pastry layered with fragrant, coconut-flavored crab meat – is called Varqui Crab.

In the context of fine dining, the name Varq has come to mean sophistication. Chef Chowdhury sums it up perfectly: “Varq is a playful mix of upmarket street food with a twist, along with fine dining dishes. There is art on the wall and there is art on the plate.”

Masala Sea Bass: delicate Chilean sea bass steamed with Indian spices, served on a bed of spinach and mushrooms and topped with a delicate chili flower Masala海鲈：精选上等智利海鲈加上印度香料清蒸，以波菜及蘑菇铺盘，鱼肉缀上辣椒花即可上桌。

看起来也赏心悦目。因此我想，『印度料理 加摆盘会擦出什么火花？』」 因此在原本烹饪技巧及料理味道的 前 提 下， 他 开 始 试 以 现 代 典 雅 的 摆 盘 方 式 来 呈 现 传 统 印 度 菜。 四 只 肥 美 多 汁 的 铁 板 炙 烧 明 虾 置 于 弧 状 的 番 红 花 饭 上， 比例恰好－为佐以热芥末肉酱的辣味孟 加 拉 菜。 米 饭 边 缘 还 缀 上 日 式 传 统 下 酒 小点炸毛豆，是主厨专为「Varq」客人设 计的巧思。他说 ： 「看到毛豆就想到豌豆 酥脆绵密的口感，顿时就想到，『何不试 把 毛 豆 加 进 印 度 料 理， 增 添 酥 脆 及 绵 密 的风味？』」 Chowdhury 尝试新作法同时，常常玩 兴大开 ： 「用卡布奇诺咖啡杯来盛奶香鹰嘴 豆浓汤就是我的点子，不留心还真看不出 来，某次真有客人向服务生说 ： 『我们没有

点咖啡啊！』这浓汤现仍大受欢迎，美味 之余乐趣不减。」 不时挖掘料理鱼类的可能性也是主厨 的兴趣之一。提及海鲈他说道 ： 「这在印度 并不常见，鱼肉的薄嫩质地非常讨好。想 到鲈鱼，当地老饕老觉得要出国或去欧洲 餐馆才吃得到，但现在只要来这，尝到新 滋味同时也品味到印度菜的美食精华。我 也常用扇贝和黑鳕鱼搭配精选印度香料， 大大满足饕客们的味蕾。」 「Varq」的融合料理受到当地人及外来 客的一致好评。印度客人能有新味觉体验， 同时沿用旧式香料 ；外国游客则可品尝印 度风味的熟悉食材及菜色。 Chowdhury 还有道拿手的改良料理， 全 新 风 格 让 他 自 豪 不 已。 只 见 他 把 寻 常 家里用来保存蔬菜的陶瓮搬到桌上，接着

解释 ： 「这叫 martaban，专用于腌菜，我 祖母把自制腌菜都放到这种瓮里。但我看 来，这也能当作煮锅。」块块分明的入味 羊肉放进瓮里，加入辛辣的红色腌菜熬煮 十二个小时以上。用「风味肉锅」长时间 炖煮的食材入口即化，带着鲜明后味。主 厨说 ： 「熬煮时美味封存瓮中，保留完整 水份。我们用印度家庭烹饪法孕育出独特 味道，此味只有『Varq』有，别处可吃不 到。」 关于餐厅名字缘由，主厨解释 ： 「字面 指薄层，可代表印度甜点上薄如纸的诱人 食用银箔，也能是装饰餐厅天花板的金箔 叶片。」而在餐厅的招牌菜上也看得到层叠 的精致金银箔片， 「Varq」的人气酥脆千层 糕就缀以多层香气四溢、椰子调味的蟹肉， 名为「Varqui Crab」风味蟹。 flavor dna

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意式珍馐

cova’s treasure trove Renowned for its delicious Italian cakes, chocolates and coffee, Milano gem Cova also serves savory delights to lure guests from the Pasticceria into the Ristorante.

COVA’S ITALIAN MENU PHILOSOPHY originates at the mother establishment

早于 1817 年，COVA 首间餐厅于意大利米兰开业，

in Milan, Italy, open since 1817, where Executive Chef Eduardo Gadda uses

如今则成为行政总厨 Eduardo Gadda 尽展才华的

the best fresh ingredients to cook elegant classics. In collaboration with

地方。坚持只采用最新鲜顶级食材 , 以简约精巧

Gadda, the Cova chefs in Hong Kong serve lovely, robustly-flavored dishes.

手法演译经典意菜。在共同创作下，香港 Cova

tagliata style. Sliced thicker than a typical carpaccio, the complex flavor

主厨及团队紧随此烹调理念，简单原味，不时不食， 呈献道道卖相精致的高级意式佳肴。

of the duck is brought into perfect focus by the accompanying fresh

其 意 式 生 肉 薄 片 carpaccio 尤 其 独 树 一 格，

homemade horseradish sauce, dollops of creamy foie gras, and sweet

采用慢煮鸭胸为食材，并以 tagliata 风格切片，

candied rhubarb. Fresh tomatoes and giant red prawns from the waters off

比一般肉片稍厚，另佐以新鲜自制辣根酱、少许

southern Italy, served head and all atop a pile of perfectly cooked pasta,

绵密鹅肝及蜜渍大黄，配搭独特。红虾鲜蕃茄意

make for an addictive favorite. And a delicious pan-fried Mediterranean

大利面选用新鲜蕃茄，加上意大利南部海域捕捞

white snapper shows off Cova’s philosophy to perfection: the delicate

的大只红虾，搭配煮得恰到好处的意粉，是餐厅

flavor and texture of the flaky white fish are given the spotlight and

极受欢迎的菜色。而香煎地中海白鲷鱼，则更能

allowed to shine.

突显 Cova 追求完美的理念，鲷鱼肉质细嫩，味

Since it’s Cova, there’s never any doubt about the quality of the finale.

All the desserts are scrumptious. Cool sweet granita with cubes of mango

道清鲜，让顾客留下深刻印象。 身处 Cova，压轴的甜点绝对让人翘首期待。

and melon makes a deliciously light and refreshing choice – just light enough

清凉可口的 granita 雪葩加上芒果与甜瓜切丁，甜

so that you’ll easily be able to persuade yourself to stop at the Pasticceria

而不腻，让人餐后意犹未尽 , 必品尝一番才餍足

on your way out.

而归。

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PHOTOS 4 AND 5 COURTESY OF COVA

A rare type of carpaccio features slow-cooked duck breast cut

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Dentice Con Fantasia D’Asparagi, Zabaglione Salato e Crema Al Limone e Capperi Pan-fried Mediterranean White Snapper with Green and White Asparagus and Salty Sabayon & Sour Capers Quenelles 香煎地中海鲷鱼配鲜白露荀及荷兰汁

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Carpaccio Di Petto D’Anitra con Mousse Di Fegato D’Oca, Rafana & Rabararo Slow-cooked Duck Breast Carpaccio with Foie Gras Mousse, served with Candied Rhubarb, Crispy Croutons & Horseradish Sauce 慢煮鸭胸伴鹅肝酱、糖渍大黄配辣根汁

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The elegant dining room of COVA Caffè-Ristorante 优雅的 COVA 意大利餐厅

Spaghettini Con Gamberi Rossi Nella Sua Salsa Spaghettini with Red Prawns, Fresh Tomatoes & Bisque 红虾、鲜蕃茄意大利面

Diplomatica Gianduia & White Chocolate Mousse Mille Foglie 黑白巧克力慕丝千层拿破仑酥

 Biscotto Alle Mandorle, Panna Cotta Di Ricotta,

Cubetti Di Melone & Mango Granita Almond Biscotto Filled with Ricotta Panna Cotta, with Melon, Passion Fruit Aspic & Mango Sherbet 乳清芝士奶冻伴蜜瓜，热情果酱配芒果雪葩

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Yamazato ĺąąé‡Œ

华丽的传统

magnificent tradition At Hotel Okura Macau’s Yamazato, Chef Akira Hayashi draws on centuries of tradition, his grandmother’s Kyoto cooking and a sharp eye for detail.

“MY COOKING STYLE is very traditional,” says

Akira Hayashi, Executive Chef of Japanese Cuisine at Hotel Okura Macau’s signature restaurant Yamazato. “I want to pass these skills on to the next generation – that is very important to me.”

At Yamazato he serves traditional dishes such as steamed Japanese vegetables, an assortment of superb sushi, and brilliantly conceived and executed multi-course kaiseki meals. “To make kaiseki you must have a good imagination. A chef is like an artist, like a designer.”

Chef Akira learned to cook by watching his grandmother in their Kyoto kitchen. “My cooking techniques are from western Japan.

Our food is milder than food from the east.

Tea ceremonies began in the west, and it was important to savor the tea taste, so food was not very strong in flavor.”

When he wants to give an extra burst of flavor to a dish, Chef Akira reaches for the red miso. “The longer the fermentation, the darker the color and the stronger the taste. The intense salty flavor is especially great for fish.”

Underneath the creativity and timehonored skills lies an obsession with detail. Chef Akira personally checks every plate before it leaves for the dining room.

“Everything must be perfect. The most important thing is to think about the person who will eat the dish.”

「我的料理风格非常传统。」澳门大仓酒店 招牌日本料理餐厅「山里」的行政总厨林 彰说道。「我想将这些料理技术传承下去 －这对我而言是非常重要的任务。」 在「山里」除了可以品尝传统的日本 料理如炖煮野菜、寿司定食等，还有别出 心裁、精致华美的怀石料理。「制作怀石 料理必须尽情发挥想像力。因此料理师傅 就如同艺术家和设计师一般。」 总厨是透过观察京都家中的老祖母在 厨房悉心为家人准备餐食而学会料理制作 的。「我的料理技术孕育自关西。西部的 料理口味比东部温和清爽，著名的茶道也 源自西部。 因此怀石料理搭配茶品时，为 不掩盖茶韵，料理多以清淡为主。」 为了料理口味更有层次，总厨选用红 味噌。「腌渍的时间越长，颜色会变得更深， 味道也会更浓烈。丰厚的盐渍口味特别适 合用于制作鱼类料理。」 隐藏在创造力和精湛技术之下的，是 对每一项细节的严格要求。上菜前的例行 检查，主厨从不假他人之手。「最重要的 是让每位来用餐的顾客都尽兴，因此每个 环节都必须尽善尽美。」 flavor dna

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美味腌肉之最

the perfect cure

EDMOND LEONG

SalumiAmo brings the best Italian cured meats to Hong Kong and Macau.

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FROM AS FAR BACK

as the days of the Roman Empire, Italy has had a love affair

with the diverse cured meats known as salumi. From prosciutto crudo and

PROSCIUTTO CRUDO Both prosciutto di S an Daniele and

prosciutto cotto, to salame, mortadella, pancetta, and coppa, the centuries-old

prosciutto di Parma come from the rear

methods of curing meats are a delicious part of Italy’s ancient food heritage.

thighs of local pigs. The legs are rubbed

Mostly made from pork, salumi can also be made from beef, lamb, and other

with salt and then washed, brushed,

meats. Some are salt-cured, smoked and air-dried, while others are preserved in fats or cooked into sausages and pates. SalumiAmo, an Italian initiative to

dried, and left to age for at least twelve months. During the aging process, they lose more than a quarter of their weight

celebrate, share and raise awareness of these specialty cured meats, is making

as the salt soaks up the moisture, giving

its debut in Hong Kong and Macau from 15 November to 6 December 2013. At

the meat a strong, concentrated flavor.

Master Classes and special tasting evenings, Italian Chef Fabio Ugoletti will

/ 圣丹尼耶尔火腿和巴马火腿皆以产地

present some of the finest cured meats and describe the traditional methods

命 名， 取 自 当 地 养 殖 猪 只 的 后 腿 肉， 抹 以 盐 巴 使 其 入 味， 再 冲 洗、 刷 净 多 余 盐

for making them. Guests can sample a variety of salumi at Aqua Spirit, Aqua

分， 悬 挂 风 干 至 少 十 二 个 月。 熟 成 过 程

Armani and GIANDO from 20-22 November; at DiVino, DiVino Patio and

中， 腿 肉 重 量 减 少 约 四 分 之 一， 盐 分 充

Spasso from 27-29 November; at Gaia, Joia and DOMANI Restaurant

分 吸 附 油 脂， 使 肉 片 散 发 出 浓 郁 香 气。

from 4-6 December, and at Aurora at Altira Macau from the 24-27 and 29 November. Venue courtesy of GIANDO restaurant.

§ 说起意大利对腌制

肉品的热情，不得不远朔到罗马帝国时期，这些历经世代更替淬炼创造 出的各式腌肉，通称「salumi」(萨路米)。不论是巴马火腿、熟火腿、萨 拉米香肠、摩德代拉香肠、意大利切片培根和库巴式风干火腿，这些遵 循古法而制的美味肉品，是意大利最珍贵的饮食文化资产。意大利腌肉 最常使用猪肉，有时也用牛、羊或者其他肉类。肉品制法很多种，像是 抹上盐巴腌渍、烟熏风干、浸泡在油中，或碾碎成泥作成腊肠或抹酱。 首届 SalumiAmo，将于十一月十五日到十二月六日在香港和澳门首度隆 重登场，除了赞扬、分享意大利美食，更借此机会让更多人认识这些美 味无比的意大利腌肉。在美食讲座与品评会上，主厨 Fabio Ugoletti 将准 备上等意大利腌肉，并逐步解说制作腌肉的独特秘方。您可于以下时间

EDMON LEONG

与地点亲尝各式美味的意大利腌肉：11月20至22日在 Aqua Spirit、Aqua Armani 和 GIANDO；11月27至29日在 DiVino, DiVino Patio 和 Spasso； 12月4至6日在 Gaia, Joia 和 DOMANI；11月24至27以及29日在澳门新濠

锋酒店奥罗拉餐厅。 flavor dna

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SALAME A mixture of lean pork, fat, salt, pepper and garlic gives salame its typical marbled appearance. The meat is left to ferment before being placed into casings, tied and matured. The ratio of protein to fat, color, taste, texture and size are carefully controlled: each salame is approximately fifteen centimeters long and less than six wide. / 肥 猪 肉 和 瘦 肉 混 合， 盐、 胡 椒、 大蒜交错其间，形成萨拉米香肠典型大理 石纹路。经过灌肠衣、捆绑、熟成后，透 过发酵腌制出独特风味。制作过程中，蛋 白质和脂肪的比例、色泽、香味、口感、

MORTADELLA

尺 寸都必须严谨地监控 ；每条萨拉米香肠 必须是十五公分长、厚度不能超过六公分。

Made from finely-ground, heat-cured pork sausage, Mortadella originated in Bologna and gets its name from the mortar and pestle it was once made with.

Black pepper adds spice to the meat, while pistachios give it texture. To be a true Mortadella, the ratio of pork to fat must be correct and each slice must have an evenly distributed amount of its highly-prized fat lardons. / 摩德代拉香肠是将猪 肉碾碎、加入香料后灌入肠衣并下锅烹煮而成。源自于波隆那，以制作香肠使用的 代拉香肠，肉中油脂比例是不能轻忽的，必须让每片肉片都含有均匀分布的油花。

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EDMON LEONG

研钵和杵命名。黑胡椒使香肠充满香气，开心果带出它微脆的口感。道地的摩德

PROSCIUTTO COTTO Prosciutto cotto is the cooked variety of prosciutto, and is renowned for its velvety texture and sweet, aromatic flavor. Prime, deboned pork thigh is massaged with salt, pepper, bay leaves and juniper and steamed in a special rounded mold. The skin is left on the meat to lock in the moisture and flavors. / Prosciutto cotto 指煮过的火腿， 以柔软滑顺的口感和香甜芬芳的味道而闻名。帕马火腿使用去骨猪大腿肉，保留猪皮 以锁住油脂和香气，浸入以盐巴、胡椒、月桂叶和松子混合的香料充分按摩，接着放 入特殊的圆锅熬煮而成。

欢乐迎佳节

’tis the season Christmas is the season to share great

Christmas Pudding With Brandy Sauce

food with great company and restaurants

Festiva: Executive Sous Chef Daniel Sheen

at Galaxy Macau™ are getting into

Festiva Chef Daniel Sheen uses a 100-year-old recipe to make his Christmas

the spirit with holiday menus that

pudding, but has given it a little twist to make it deliciously moist and even

showcase their signature Christmas

tastier. He soaks the dried fruits for six months before Christmas and adds

dishes. Celebrate the festive season and

alcohol every week to retain and intensify the flavors. Flavored with nutmeg,

satisfy every holiday craving with classic

cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and apple, Chef Sheen says cooking with passion and

Christmas dishes at Galaxy Macau.

love is the secret to a wonderful Christmas pudding.

河 ™」综合渡假城推出经典圣诞

「澳

圣诞布丁配白兰地汁

大餐，与您同庆欢乐佳节。圣诞节最适合

群芳餐厅 : 行政总厨戴宏翱

与亲朋好友共享美味佳肴，渡假城内各家

行政总厨戴宏翱以流传百年的作法制作圣诞布丁，并稍加变化，使之更湿润美味。

餐厅秉持欢度圣诞的精神，推出各式招牌

在圣诞节前六个月，他就开始浸泡水果干，并且每个礼拜都多加点酒以保存并

圣诞餐点，菜色多元，佳节美馔应有尽

强化水果的味道，之后再加入肉豆蔻、肉桂、丁香、生姜、苹果等配料。总厨

有，定能满足每一个食客欢度假期的渴望。

认为，对甜点抱持着爱与热情，就是做出美味圣诞布丁的关键秘方。

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sponsored feature

Home-Smoked Salmon Carpaccio, Almond and Dill Pesto, Arugula, and Lemon Oil Foam Terrazza: Chef de Cuisine Gleb Snegin Salmon can be found on the tables of many Italian families at Christmas. For this dish, Chef Gleb Snegin smokes the salmon with real pinewood, which gives it a slightly sweet, smoky flavor that contrasts beautifully with the bitterness of the arugula and crunchy almonds. To slice perfect carpaccio, says Chef Snegin, you need a perfectly sharpened knife, strong and steady hands, and a precise eye. 自制烟熏三文鱼薄片配杏仁刁草酱、火箭菜及柠檬油泡沫 庭园意大利餐厅 : 总厨格雷宝 三文鱼是圣诞节许多意大利家庭的桌上佳肴。为了这道菜，总厨格雷宝特别选 用纯正松木熏制三文鱼，使三文鱼带有微甜的烟熏味，再配上微苦的芝麻菜及 香脆的杏仁。总厨表示，要切好熏三文鱼薄片，除了刀子要锋利，手要稳且够力， 眼睛判断下刀位置也得精确才行。 flavor dna

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Cod Fish Fillet With Cod Fish Tongue Rice and Coriander Gosto: Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil Cod fish is the most common ingredient on Portuguese tables at Christmas time, and tradition demands that it must be served with cabbage, egg and baked potatoes. Gosto Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil has created a dish that represents the season and gives diners the enjoyment of classic Portuguese comfort food. Portuguese cuisine perfectly combines garlic, olive oil and coriander, and this delicious trio of ingredients is cooked sous-vide with the cod fish, sealing in all the flavors and aromas and ensuring the perfect texture. 特色马介休 葡轩 ：总厨马俊杰 马介休是葡萄牙在圣诞节时最常见的食材，传统上通常搭配包心菜、蛋与烤马 铃薯。总厨马俊杰设计的这道佳肴不仅带出了佳节氛围，更让食客享受到令人 大呼满足的经典葡萄牙美食。这道葡萄牙料理选用大蒜、橄榄油和香菜，再将 这三种食材与马介休一起真空低温烹调，封存所有的滋味与香气，口感绝佳。

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Christmas Chocolate Yule Log Cascades: Pastry Chef de Cuisine Grosse Smita Since medieval times, it has been a tradition to bake Yule Log cakes for Christmas Eve. Chef Grosse Smita prepares her Yule Log the old-fashioned way, with chocolate as the main ingredient, but favors a more contemporary presentation. Rich and chocolaty, flavored with festive gingerbread crumbs, the Yule Log is paired with a creamy vanilla sauce or a sweet-sour raspberry coulis. 圣诞节日蛋糕 COURTESY OF GALAXY

水帘 ：糕饼总厨殷柏维 从中世纪时期开始，在圣诞节前夕烤圣诞树头蛋糕成为一个传统习俗。糕饼总 厨殷柏维以朱古力为主原料，采用传统方式烘培，但外表展现现代美。朱古力 味浓郁，撒上充满节庆气氛的姜饼面包屑，再搭配香滑的云尼拿酱或酸甜的覆 盆子酱，滋味满分。

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Executive Chef Adam Cliff

tasting notes

泰正宗依善菜

Isaan ingenuity Chachawan Executive Chef Adam Cliff revels in the native flavors of authentics food.

THAILAND’S RURAL NORTHEASTERN REGION

is called Isaan. Bordered by Laos and the Mekong River to the north and east, and

by Cambodia to the south, it is a flat, hot region dominated by rice paddies and big skies. Isaan’s farmers keep enough rice to feed their families and then sell the surplus to buy other food. Money is tight. Most Isaan people can’t buy large quantities of meat or vegetables, and so their self-sufficient cuisine relies on a repertoire of strong, salty, sour, and spicy seasonings to flavor dishes accompanied by plenty of rice.

Chachawan Executive Chef Adam Cliff delights in the native flavors and ingredients of Isaan. “Sourness is provided by Thai limes,” he explains. “They are sharper than any other limes I have tasted. If you swallow their juice unsweetened it makes the glands in your neck wince.” Together with the astringent Thai limes, Isaan cuisine uses different chilies for different flavor purposes.

“Isaan cuisine uses six or seven different fresh chilies,” explains Cliff. “Some deliver a kick, others are more floral.”

Fresh herbs feature frequently in Isaan dishes. “It’s a very adaptable cuisine,” says Cliff. “Instead of going to a shop … the people of Isaan walk down the street or wander into their jungle to collect a bouquet of herbs and cook with them.” Thailand’s

在泰国东北，大片乡地被称「依善 (Isaan)」 区， 气 候 温 热， 地 势 平 坦， 放 眼 尽 是 稻 田及广阔天空。依善农家务农首要填饱肚 子， 多 余 农 获 才 另 行 贩 售 来 购 买 其 他 食 物。因手头不宽裕，依善人大多无法大量 买进肉类或蔬菜，故地方菜色使用咸、酸、 辣 等 重 口 味 调 配， 增 添 菜 肴 的 风 味 来 下 饭。 香港「Chachawan」泰式餐馆行政总厨 Adam Cliff 对依善菜的独特风味及食材情 有独钟 ： 「依善菜的酸来自泰国莱姆，味道 是我尝过最酸最呛的，只喝果汁不稀释， 绝对酸到让你颈部抽搐。除了莱姆，依善 料理也善用多种辣椒营造味道。」他强调 ： 「至少六到七种辣椒，有些带辣劲，其他则 偏花香气息。」 依善菜也常见新鲜草本植物。总厨表 示： 「依善料理因地制宜，适应性强，当 地人通常在路边或丛林中采集草木，放入 料理烹煮。」因雨季甚长，辣椒肥厚，而 野生植物汁多、个头大，却不对 Cliff 的胃 口： 「植物含水量高，味道就稀释了，反 而是干季的植物味道浓郁，适合入菜烹调 依善料理。」 依善菜常用高良姜、鲜姜黄及柠檬草等 草本植物来调和肉类的特有骚味。Cliff 进 一步说明 ： 「依善文化中，鸡鸭或猪都在家 放养，喂食及成长都与别国如澳洲或法国 等大相径庭，因而味道更强也偏浓重。」但 肉骚味反而是亮点 ： 「吃依善菜就要这味， 在肉骚和花香草本气味间取得巧妙平衡。

Khao Niew 28: steamed Thai Sticky Rice 蒸泰国糯米饭

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Gai Yung 158: chicken thigh marinated for 24 hours in garlic, pepper, and coriander; then grilled till crispy; served with jhim jeaw 24小时以蒜头、胡椒、辣椒、芫荽 腌制的鸡腿，佐以Jhim Jeaw酱

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long wet season swells the chilies and makes the wild herbs plump and juicy. Cliff thinks this is not such a great thing: “The problem is that the flavor becomes diluted by the amount of water in the plants. In the dry season the herbs have the intensity you need when cooking Isaan dishes.”

Herbs like galangal, fresh turmeric and lemongrass are used to complement a musky quality in the meat. “Chickens, pigs and ducks are raised in the house in Isaan culture. Their feed and upkeep is very different than for animals raised, say, in Australia or France. Their flavor is stronger and more intense.” But Cliff does not feel the muskiness of the meat is a negative; quite the reverse: “You need it. Isaan dishes need that interplay between musky meat and floral herbs. I have actually struggled using meats that lacked that muskiness – we couldn’t hit the proper flavor notes.”

Cliff has an instinctive understanding of how spices interact with the ingredients they season. One point he highlights is the role of fat in a dish. His chopped duck salad is given some heat with dried, roasted, and ground chili peppers, and then fragranced with kaffir lime leaves, long leaf coriander, and spring onions. “This dish has a roundness to it. The fat from the duck coats your mouth and helps mute the heat of the chili.

There’s a meatiness and spiciness which is very satisfying.”

By contrast, his classic papaya salad is prepared without any oil whatsoever. Long shreds of fresh green papaya are mixed with sliced red chilies and tiny whole peanuts, sourced from Thailand for their firm, dry texture. The dressing combines richly sweet

palm sugar with sharp Thai lime. “I like to serve this salad with a grilled chicken dish on the side,” says Cliff. “It just needs that fat from the chicken, to give you a satisfying mouth feel.”

The palm sugar Cliff uses is a subject close to his heart. He favors organic, which comes as a pure, smooth paste. “Natural palm sugar has a caramel flavor that lingers on the palate. It has a more gentle sweetness, like molasses. We don’t want the sweet notes coming up too loudly. Artificial white sugar has a harshness that damages the other flavors in a dish.”

But the main event in Isaan food is the sticky rice. “Sticky rice is what is grown in the Isaan region. It takes longer to digest than jasmine rice as there is more starch in it, so it makes the perfect meal after a long

day working on the farm, and goes perfectly with robustly flavored Isaan dishes.” Sticky rice can also be used to add texture and flavor to dipping sauces. “I take uncooked rice, toast it off in a pan, then grind it to a powder,” says Cliff. “The resulting flour is used to add body to dishes and is more flavorful than plain rice flour. My grilled chicken has toasted rice powder in its dipping sauce.”

To get an authentic Isaan flavor, Cliff sources 85 percent of his ingredients directly from Thailand. “We have one or two deliveries a day. The most expensive ingredients that I buy are Thai limes – I air freight them in and they are really heavy! Some people use bottled lime juice or local limes but I say you can’t skimp. You need that perfect sourness to create a true Isaan dish.”

处理不带骚味的肉倒让我施展不开，找不 到恰好味道。」 总厨对于香料如何画龙点睛有敏锐直觉， 菜中油脂是注重地方之一。如切片鸭肉沙 拉佐以干烤的磨碎胡椒增加了入口的灼热 感，再加上青柠叶、长叶胡荽及青葱增添 气味。他形容 ： 「这菜吃来口感圆润，鸭肉 油脂覆住口腔，正好作为胡椒呛辣口感的 缓冲，肉汁满溢同时又带辣呛口感，着实 叫人心满意足。」 Cliff 的青木瓜沙拉则走清淡路线，鲜青 木瓜刨成长丝，加上切片红辣椒及泰国干 硬扎实的特有小型花生，酱汁用甜腻的棕 榈糖及爽呛的泰国莱姆调制。「青木瓜沙拉 搭配烤鸡再适合不过，搭配鸡肉肉汁享用， 绝对大呼过瘾。」所用的棕榈糖可说是总厨 的心头好，含有机成分且带纯净滑顺的浓 稠质感。他说 ： 「天然的棕榈糖带些许焦糖 味，停在味蕾久久不去，但甜度不会太过， 就像糖蜜般温和，如此甜味才不至喧宾夺 主。人工白糖细致不够，会破坏料理的其 他美味。」 而依善菜主角非米饭莫属，总厨解释 ： 「依善地区的糯米内含淀粉比例高，相较茉 莉米需要更多消化时间，正好适合整天务 农的体力所需，与重口味的依善菜也是绝 配。」糯米运用得当，也可让沾酱口感及味 道更为丰富，Cliff 不吝分享 ： 「米粒直接 放平底锅干烘后，磨成糯米粉，可增加料 理的整体份量，比一般白米粉味道更多元， 像我的特制烤鸡就可搭配加入糯米粉的沾 酱品尝。」 Cliff 为求原汁原味，高达百分之八十五 的食材都由泰国直送。他说 ： 「一天进货一 到两次，而泰国莱姆重量重，又用空运， 花费最多！有人为方便用罐装莱姆汁或本 地产的莱姆，于我而言这钱可省不得。毕 竟没有恰好的酸味，又哪来正宗的依善菜 呢？」

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tasting notes

Bombay Dreams Head Chef Devi Singh’s fragrant dishes are food for the Gods.

Head Chef Devi Singh

tasting notes

Murgh Aur Hare Pyaz ki Shammi 香煎鸡肉饼

“EVERY REGION OF INDIA uses spices in its

cooking,” says Bombay Dreams Head Chef Devi Singh, surrounded by jars filled with powders, sticks and seeds. “We don’t eat bland food!”

Indian cooking uses both fresh herbs and dried spices. Beyond adding flavor to dishes, spices and herbs are also believed to have medicinal qualities – they warm the body, aid digestion and ward off disease. “We use spices in medicines as well as cooking,” explains Chef Singh. “White peppercorns are a component of cough syrup and cardamom is a key ingredient of skin cream.”

Fresh herbs feature in dishes that are cooked quickly and eaten immediately. Dried whole spices are added to stews, where they linger over a gentle heat for several hours, slowly releasing their sweet aromas. These whole spices can also be ground to a powder and toasted in oil, which is then used to cook meat or vegetables, adding a fragrant kick.

A large hot plate, known as a tawa, is sizzling loudly in Singh’s kitchen. On it he is searing small patties of ground chicken and bell pepper – Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki Shammi. “This is typical Northern Indian

street food,” says Singh. “The patties themselves are fresh tasting and just have a little ginger, garlic and white pepper to season them. But we serve them with a sauce made from fresh green herbs and green chilies – that’s where the flavor comes from.” The sauce is a blend of mint, coriander, green chili and lemon juice. Bright green, the texture of mayonnaise, it tastes light but assertive with chili heat.

Nearby, bubbling quietly on the stove, is a Kashmiri delicacy called Lamb Rogan Josh – chunks of juicy lamb slow-cooked in a rich, thick sauce, flavored with an array of whole dried spices. “Dried spices need time to release their flavor, so we cook this dish over a low fire for a long time,” says Singh.

Rogan Josh means “warming” – it’s a perfect dish for the chilly, mountainous reaches of Kashmir. A heady mix of whole chilies, cinnamon, cumin seeds, bay leaf, mace and two different types of cardamom produces the rich, spicy heat.

The two types of cardamom are very different in appearance. Small cardamom is a faded green, caper-shaped pod, which when cooked produces a scent like young

Bombay Dreams 主厨 Devi Singh 置身在一 罐罐香料粉末、条梗、种子之间，告诉我们： 「印度每个地区烹调都会使用香料，我们不 吃平淡无味的食物！」 印度料理同时使用新鲜香草与干燥香 料，除了增添菜肴风味，据信也有温暖身 体、帮助消化和祛除疾病的功效，颇具药 用价值。 Singh 解释 ： 「香料既能入菜也能 入药，白胡椒粒可以用于止咳糖浆，小豆 蔻更是护肤霜的重要成分。」 现炒现吃的菜式中会加入新鲜香草， 炖煮菜色则加入整粒未研磨的干燥香料， 以文火炖上几个小时，慢慢释放芳香的气 味。整颗香料也可以磨成粉，放入油中加 热，用来烹煮肉类或蔬菜，增添诱人香气。 在 Singh 的厨房重地，大型铁板 (tawa) 烧得滋滋作响，上面烤着填入鸡蓉和甜椒 的小馅饼 (Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki Shammi)。Singh 说明： 「这是经典的北印度小吃， 味道清新，只用一点姜、蒜、白胡椒调味， 但同时会附上新鲜绿色香草与绿辣椒做的 沾酱，吃起来滋味十足。」酱料混合了薄荷、 芫荽、绿辣椒及柠檬汁，调配好的酱汁呈 现鲜绿色，质地如同蛋黄酱，滋味清爽但 火辣十足。 旁 边 炉 上 静 静 冒 着 泡 泡 的， 是 一 道 喀 什 米 尔 名 菜 － 小 羊 肉 香 料 咖 喱 (Lamb flavor dna

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Lamb Rogan Josh 辣椒洋葱煮羊肉

branches burning on a fire. It is placed whole into the curry and cooked slowly to liberate its pure, fresh fragrance. Large cardamom is a withered black pod. “This one we crush,” explains Singh. “We want the seeds from the inside.” The large cardamom seeds have a faint menthol taste and a mild numbing effect on the mouth.

One of the Bombay Dreams chefs has chipped loose a fragment from a large black salt crystal. As he pounds it to grey powder in a pestle, it releases a sulfurous scent, the smell of natural hot springs, pungent and verging on overpowering. “We call it black salt,” says Singh. “It smells a bit like eggs but it is really good for the stomach and it delivers a special flavor to the food – better than table salt.”

He uses the black salt in the Hyderabad dish Mirch Baingan Ka Salan – young eggplant simmered in rich peanut and almond gravy, fragranced with a mix of whole and powdered dried spices. To make the sauce, cumin seeds, mustard seeds and fenugreek are fried in a little oil. “Once you hear the seeds start to pop, it is time to add the vegetables,” says Singh. Further flavor

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is provided by a mix of fifteen spices known as Garam Masala and another mysterious powder with a queer, darkly sour taste that Singh describes as “sweet-sour powder.”

These different flavors meld together and complement each other. The sulfurous salt presents as a rich smoky note, the sweet-sour powder amplifies the quiet floral notes of the fenugreek and mustard and complements the smoky scent of the cumin. Finally Sing adds a little coconut milk, and the sweetness creates a final glorious flavor harmony.

From the kitchen, Singh fetches a pullao – a clay pot filled with perfect grains of basmati rice, sweet carrots and al dente cauliflower, all topped with strands of bright yellow saffron. Harvested from the centre of a crocus flower, just a few strands are sufficient to perfume a whole dish.

“We use a lot of different spices in our cooking,” says Singh. “You need to understand the individual aromas of the spices and then know how to combine them to create wonderful dishes. Different regions favor different spices but there is one that you find in every Indian kitchen. It’s the true flavor of India.”

Rogan Josh)。浓郁醇厚的酱汁中，加进好 几种整粒的干燥香料，放入大块鲜美多汁 的小羊肉，细火慢炖。 Singh 解 释 ： 「干燥香料要煮一段时 间才能释放风味，所以这道菜会以小火炖 上很长一段时间。」「Rogan Josh」的意思 是「变暖」，很适合喀什米尔寒冷的山陵 地区，整枝辣椒、肉桂、整粒小茴香籽、 月桂叶、肉豆蔻皮、两种不同的豆蔻，混 合在一起，那馥郁辛辣的香气，令人闻了 飘飘欲仙。 这道菜里的两种豆蔻外表大异其趣， 小豆蔻是浅绿色的豆荚，形状像酸豆，烹 煮后会放出燃烧的气味。烹煮时，整粒放 入咖喱中慢炖，释放纯净、清新的香味。 大豆蔻则是外表干瘪的黑色豆荚，Singh 解释道 ： 「这种香料要磨碎，只取里面的种 子。」大豆蔻子有淡淡的薄荷味，吃在嘴里 有点麻麻的。 Bombay Dreams 的厨师从一大块黑色 结晶盐上削下几粒，接着用槌子把盐块研 磨成灰色粉末，散发出一股硫磺气味，闻 起来像天然温泉， 味道相当刺激， 近乎刺鼻。 Singh 说 ： 「这叫黑盐，闻起来有点像鸡蛋 的味道，不过它对胃很好，而且能赋予料 理独特的风味，比精盐好用。」 Singh 将黑盐运用在一道海得拉巴的 料 理 中， 这 道 菜 叫 Mirch Baingan Ka Salan，用浓郁的花生杏仁肉汁煨茄子，并加 入各种整粒与粉状的干燥香料赋予菜式芬 芳气息。要做酱汁，首先用点油来炒小茴 香子、芥末籽、葫芦巴，Singh 告诉我们： 「听 到种子爆开的声音，就表示可以加入蔬菜 了。」 接下来再加入混和十五种香料的印度 综 合 香 料 粉 Garam Masala， 另 加 一 种 奇 特、带酸味的深色粉末，Singh 说这叫「酸 甜粉」。各种不同的香气共冶一炉，却能 彼此融合，相得益彰。硫磺味的盐富含烟 熏香气，酸甜粉强化了葫芦巴和芥末籽温 和的花香，并让小茴香的烟熏味更加圆满。 最后，Singh 还加了一点椰奶，用甜味打 造圆融顺口的整体风味，奏出和谐的最终 章。 「我们在烹调时使用非常多不同的香 料，你要先了解每种香料独特的香气，才 能找到搭配方法，做出一道好菜。不同地 区偏好不同香料，但有种味道每家印度厨 房都找得到－那就是印度的纯正风味。」

Saffron Pulao: clay pot filled with basmati rice, sweet carrots and cauliflower, topped with strands of saffron 藏红花饭(Saffron Pulao)：印度香米搭配红萝卜、外软内韧的花椰菜，上头点缀藏红花丝，以陶锅盛装

“ You need to understand the individual aromas of the spices and then know how to combine them to create wonderful dishes. 你要先了解每种香 料独特的香气，才能 找到搭配方法，做出 一道好菜。 ”

Tandoori Nisha: prawns marinated in yoghurt, lemon juice and spices and then grilled in the belly of a clay tandoor oven 香料窑烤虎虾 (Tandoori Nisha)：虎虾以酸奶、柠檬汁及香料腌制，并于泥制窑炉内烧烤

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香料王国

S pice �orld In Old Delhi, India, TK Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan take a walk along Khari Baoli Street to visit the world’s largest spice market.

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A BLUE HAZE HANGS ABO VE THE TREES on a crisp Delhi

德里一大清早，天气尚凉，树上方笼罩一片

morning. People hug arms to bodies against the slight

蓝色薄雾，只见路上行人纷纷以手环绕胸前，

winter chill. Along the pavement, heaps of flower heads

抵御那冬日寒意。人行道上，成堆花束在塑

are piled high on plastic sheets, burnt orange and deep red

胶布上叠得老高，也可看到褐橘及深红金盏

marigolds alternating with the flat grey concrete that peeps

花交替，顺着灰色的斑驳土墙直趋隔壁摊位

through between each flower vendor’s space. A faint scent

一窥究竟。阵阵玫瑰芳香令人晕眩，稍加缓

of roses softens the air.

解了空气中的紧绷气氛。

Customers push their way between the vendors, eyeing

市集四处摩肩擦踵，客人在摊贩间穿梭，

the flowers keenly. The flower sellers have only a few hours

眼中只有想要寻找的花。花贩时间不多，无

before the shuttered shops behind them will open their

不大声贩售，因再过数小时，后方商店就要

doors and the street will fill with traders, all making their way to the suffocating lanes of Gadodia, the world’s largest wholesale spice market.

Three monkeys gambol along a plait of cables, traversing Khari Baoli, a busy street in Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk district. Beneath them the road is packed with people moving sack loads of spices: rickshaws are piled high, men haul trolleys, porters known as coolie wallahs lug hessian sacks on their shoulders or

开张，届时街道将满是贸

Some sacks have split already, revealing dried chilies, their bright red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light of the alley.

balance stacks of boxes on their heads.

易商，全世界最大的香料 批 发 市 场「Gadodia」 周 边大街小巷都将挤得水泄 不通。 三只猴子在绳索编成 的缆线上跳跃，在旧德里 Chandni Chowk 城 区 繁 忙 的大街 Khari Baoli 上方玩 得不亦乐乎。底下的人们 正忙着将一袋袋香料搬进 搬出 ：人力车上早已堆满 货物、男人拉着拖车前行、

An ox with horns painted the colors of the Indian flag

苦力则扛起脚夫的工作，将大捆麻袋放在肩

lumbers past. A horse wearing blinkers pulls a cart loaded

上、或把箱子巧妙层层堆在头顶，使命必达。

with rice.

同时一只牛角画上印度国旗颜色的大公牛缓

The street fills with the sounds of horns, shouts and cries as each worker forces his way through the cars, draft

步经过，另一头则见一匹戴着眼罩的马儿使 劲拖着堆满白米袋的轮车。

animals and bicycles, all fighting to get to the same place.

街道上喇叭声、搬运工穿梭车阵的吆喝

A man gives directions in Hindi: “The spice market is after

声此起彼落，他们的目的地和一旁的驼兽与

the second tree on the left.” A dark-walled lane leads into

搬运脚踏车都一样是香料市场。有个好心人

a central courtyard encircled by four floors of shops. Each

用印度话帮忙报路 ： 「过左边第二棵树就可

property is filled from floor to ceiling with sacks. Coolie

以到市场了。」沿着满是暗黑砖墙的小巷往

wallahs ferry the sacks inside and pile them up, carrying bill

前不久，便来到了空旷的广场，四周俱是四

hooks to steady the loads and cutlasses to slice them open.

层楼建筑，在各店家内都可发现香料袋直从

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Some sacks have split already, revealing dried chilies, their

地板堆到天花板。苦力把麻袋搬进店里，先

bright red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light of

用小镰刀袈着袋子保持重心，随即就以小刀

the alley. A porter wanders past, covered in yellow dust.

把麻袋划开。有些麻袋原就已裂开，露出其

As he walks by, the sack he is carrying puffs small clouds

内的干燥香料，亮红及橘黄色泽在巷弄中幽

of turmeric into the heavy air. Its sour stench catches in

暗光线下熠熠发光。此时有个身上满是黄色

the throats of the porters and traders, and a rhythmic

粉尘的脚夫路过，肩上麻袋不时喷出姜黄粉

cacophony of coughing breaks out. A wounded sack sits

末，酸呛味让一旁的搬运工及商人不只闻得

forlornly outside a shop, slowly shedding chilies onto the

难受，还呛到喉咙，引发一阵阵咳嗽，声音

dusty earth.

如有韵律般久久不消。商店门外还有包破烂

Most of the customers in Gadodia are wholesale spice

的麻袋，躺在路边无人答理，只见香料在尘

traders, buying in bulk and distributing

土飞扬中缓缓流泄而出。

to s h o p s a l l ove r I n d i a . S o m e a re exporters, collecting spices that will travel across the world. Others are here for a joyful reason: to buy large quantities of ingredients for wedding banquets. “It is wedding season here in India between November and March,” says the brother of a brideto-be. “We invite a thousand people to a celebration lasting several days, so we have to cook a lot of food for our

来「Gadodia」的客人中，

有些麻袋原就已

以香料批发贸易商为众多， 大量采购后再分卖到全印

裂开，露出其内 的干燥香料，亮 红及橘黄色泽在 巷弄中幽暗光线 下熠熠发光。

guests. We are buying twenty kilograms

度的商店，而市场也能看 到出口商的身影，欲物色 香料卖到世界各地。有的 则是为了令人欢欣的理由 到此一访 ：为婚宴购入大 量的食材。现场有位准新 娘的哥哥就说 ： 「十一月到 三月间正是印度的结婚旺 季，上千名宾客将受邀参

of hot chili powder and five kilograms of cumin. It’s a lot

加连续多天的庆祝仪式，自然要准备的食物

cheaper here than anywhere else.”

也相当可观。我们今天要买整整二十公斤的

The haze clears as a piercing winter sun burns through scant cloud. Coats are shed. The coolie wallahs’ foreheads

辣椒粉和五公斤的莳萝，到这边买最划算了。 」 穿透稀薄云层，天际洒下刺眼冬阳，薄

are studded with sweat. From nearby Fatehpuri Masjid,

雾逐渐消散。人们脱掉外套，苦力的额头也

a mullah sings the call to prayer. One of the shops in the

开始渗满汗珠。邻近的 Fatehpuri Masjid 清

market fills with hungry workers and shopkeepers, queuing

真寺中，传来教长毛拉唱催祷颂的声音。市

to buy hot naan bread, fresh from the tandoor. Coolie

场一间店里立刻塞满饥肠辘辘的工人及店老

wallahs squat against the walls, or recline on top of carts

板，排队要买坦都烤炉刚出炉的烤饼。苦力

to eat, listening to the pulsing beat of motorbike horns and

们或蹲在墙边，或倚着拖车进食，传进耳里

to the shouts of their co-workers as they file past carrying

的不是摩托车震耳欲聋的喇叭声，就是其他

their loads.

工人排队准备搬货大声嚷嚷的叫声。

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On Khari Baoli Road a stall sells bright green leaves

KhariBaoli 大 街 上 有 个 摊 贩 专 卖 亮 绿

the shape of upturned hearts. The stallholder paints a leaf

色叶子包成的小点，形状像是凸起的爱心。

with a pink paste, scatters it with flakes of tobacco and

店家手法俐落，拿起一片叶子涂上粉红色

chips of cardamom and areca nut, and then folds the leaf

的膏状物、洒上烟草片、小豆蔻和槟榔籽，

into a triangle. This is paan , a treat that is chewed. The

包成三角形就大功告成。这种用来嚼的点

leaf is from the betel vine, renowned for its psychoactive

心 当 地 人 称 之 为「paan」。 拿 来 包 的 槟 榔

properties. The areca nut and tobacco promote alertness.

叶可以提神，槟榔籽及烟草则有醒脑的效

“Paan is very popular with the coolie wallahs,” says the

果。店家表示 ： 「paan 在苦力阶级里很流行，

stallholder. “They chew it and spit out

嚼一嚼会吐出红色的槟榔

streams of red liquid. The ingredients

汁，里面包的都是刺激精

have a stimulant effect on the mind.

But if you have too much paan, it can make you go crazy. The coolie wallahs need it though, as they work hard for many hours. Paan helps them to keep working.”

The coolie wallahs continue their work inside the market. Out on the street, smart shop fronts display spices which have travelled to Delhi from Gujarat, South Kerala, Rajasthan and

The jewel colors of turmeric, chili, cardamom and mace shine amongst the multiple browns of cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon.

神效果的成份，吃太多的 话可能会疯掉，不过苦力 每天都要辛苦工作好几个 小 时， 嚼 着 paan 可 让 他

from every corner of India. Some have

苦 力 仍 埋 头 苦 干。 大 街 另一头整洁的店头则摆 着 来 自 Gujarat、South Kerala 及 Rajasthan 等 印 度 各 地 而 来 的 香 料。 有些长途跋涉的程度超

乎想像，某家老板介绍 ： 「我们家绿豆蔻可

from Iran,” explains a shopkeeper.

是从伊朗来的。」

In the back of one shop an assistant wearing a plastic

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市场里，满身大汗的

had an even longer journey. “Our green cardamom comes

glove shapes bowls of ground spices into neat dunes.

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们活力持久。」

旁边店里可以看到助理戴着塑胶手套， 在店后方整理地上纷乱的成堆香料，分门别

The jewel colors of turmeric, chili, cardamom and mace

类后有咖啡色系的莳萝、肉豆蔻及肉桂小

shine amongst the multiple browns of cumin, nutmeg and

山，正好衬出姜黄、番椒、小豆蔻及豆蔻的

cinnamon. The shop front is festooned with a garland of

珠宝色泽。店门前装饰着金盏花圈，并交叉

marigold flowers, interlaced with coiled, shiny green mango

缀着盘卷、散发亮绿色调的芒果叶。当问及

leaves. “The flowers?” says the shopkeeper. “We hang

门口花饰，店老板解释 ： 「挂花可以带来好运，

them outside to attract luck. It’s good for our business.”

助我们生意兴隆。」

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越菜「新」鲜尝

chôm chôm nom nom Vietnamese chef Peter Cuong Franklin packs layered flavors into every morsel of his delicious Bia Hoi dishes.

“FISH SAUCE from South Vietnam is

considered the best in the world,” says Chôm Chôm Executive Chef Peter Cuong Franklin.

He’s using some to prepare a sweet-sharp dipping sauce for a chicken skewer. “I use a brand which has only three ingredients – anchovies, salt and water. The anchovies are layered with salt in large barrels and left to ferment for about seven months, and then the mixture is pressed to release a clear, pungent liquid.” The first pressing has a pure anchovy flavor, perfect for dipping sauces.

Further pressings are saltier and the flavor of the fish becomes less distinct.

The dipping sauce Chef Franklin is making has five key ingredients: fish sauce, sugar, garlic, chilies and lime juice. This time he also adds shredded kaffir lime leaves. “I like to inject flavor into my food from all directions,” he says. Kaffir lime leaves are used twice in his skewered chicken. They’re placed inside the chicken so they influence it from within and also shredded and mixed in the dipping sauce to add their unique scent to the crisp outside of the meat. Additional flavor is added alongside the dish’s delivery system: the chicken skewer is pierced by a spear of lemongrass, which releases its light

Chôm Chôm ( 意为红毛丹 ) 越式餐厅行政 主厨 Peter Cuong Franklin 一边用鱼露调制 鸡肉串烧的酸甜沾酱，一边说 ： 「越南南部 的鱼露是世界最顶级的，我用的牌子只有 三种材料－鱼、盐、水。鱼与盐一层层叠 在大桶里腌制，静置发酵七个月，压榨桶 内的混合物，就得到澄清、风味鲜甜的汁 液。」初榨鱼露的 鱼味最纯正，做沾酱非 常合适，之后再榨的味道就比较咸，鱼味 也较淡。 Franklin 主厨制作的沾酱有五种主要 原料，包括鱼露、糖、蒜、辣椒及柠檬汁， 这次他还加入切碎的泰国柠檬叶。他说： 「我 喜欢调制各种不同风味的料理。」这道鸡肉 串烧以两种手法运用泰国柠檬叶，一种是 放在鸡肉里，让风味由内而外散发，另一 种是切细丝伴入酱中，沾在鸡肉香脆的外 皮上，散发柠檬叶独特的清香。甚至使用 的器材也有巧思，串住鸡肉用的是香茅叶， 烧烤时会释放些许香茅油，让风味更上一 层楼。最后再洒上青辣椒，便大功告成。 这道菜散发越南料理独特风味，带着花香， 清新爽口。 Franklin 说 ： 「越南是农业社会，种植 的作物无所不包，经常使用新鲜蔬菜与香 草就是越南菜的一大特色。」相较之下，印 度料理则使用大量干燥的香草与香料，经 过捣碎、烘烤，再用油煎，释放带烟熏味

“ I like to inject flavor into my food from all directions. 我喜欢调制各种不同 风味的料理。”

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oils during cooking. For a final kick, sliced green chili is scattered over the surface of the meat. The scent is distinctively Vietnamese – floral, light and fresh.

“Vietnam is an agricultural society where you can grow everything,” says Franklin. “One of the key flavor points of Vietnamese cooking is the frequent use of fresh vegetables and herbs.” He contrasts it with the cuisine of India, which uses a lot of dry herbs and spices, pounded, toasted, and

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then cooked in oil to release their smoky rich flavors. When questioned about the similarity between Thai and Vietnamese cooking styles, Franklin is quick to counter: “Thai cooking is more in your face with spices. We use similar ingredients but Thais punch people in the face with flavor. We try to create more of a balance. We do use chilies but not so they kill the other flavors. We don’t use as many ingredients, we use fewer spices, and we cook in water so our cuisine is lighter. You

can clearly taste the individual components in Vietnamese cooking.”

Chôm Chôm is an intimate restaurant at the foot of trendy Peel Street. It has a small outside space where diners can relax and people-watch. The food is unfussy and based on Bia Hoi, the concept of snacks that accompany beer. One such snack Franklin has prepared is a plate of deep fried chicken wings called VFC – a Vietnamese take on Kentucky Fried Chicken. He takes care to

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的浓郁香气。泰国料理与越南料理的烹调 方式是否类似？ Franklin 一口否定。「泰 国菜的香料味道比较直接，我们用的食材 类似，但泰国菜有股扑鼻而来的浓重香味。 越南菜讲求均衡和谐，虽然用辣椒，但不 会掩盖其他味道。食材不是愈多愈好，我 们用的香料比较少，而且用水煮，所以口 感比较清爽。越南菜里每一种材料的味道 你都吃得到。」 Chôm Chôm 气氛温馨，位于时髦的卑 利街转角，一隅户外空间让客人放松，坐

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看行人熙来攘往。 Chôm Chôm 的餐点不 会过分精致，以搭配新鲜啤酒的小吃 ( 越 南文称为 Bia Hoi) 为主轴，例如其中一道 是越式炸鸡翅，这是越南版的肯德基炸鸡， 经 Franklin 用各种手法尝起来更丰富有味。 首先选用鸡翅，这是一只鸡味道最鲜美的 部位，然后再下功夫让鸡肉美味升级。「我 们一层层添加风味，首先用鱼露、芫荽籽、 大蒜腌制，不只是浸泡，更要连骨头都入味。 接下来裹粉，粉也调了味。我裹的是米粉， 比较清爽也更香脆，另外在粉中加入红椒

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Chicken and Lemongrass Skewer 香茅鸡肉串烧

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Grilled Eggplant with Crab Meat 蟹肉烤茄子 魚

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Cha Cha Hanoi 炸龙利鱼柳

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kitchen conversations

“ Chinese and French are two of the greatest cuisines in the world. But we just took the best things from them. We still retain very Vietnamese characteristics in our cooking.

中菜和法国菜 是世界两大料理， 但我们只撷取两种 料理的精华，我们 的烹调方式仍然极 富越南特色。”

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fill the chicken with flavor whichever way he can. He uses wings, which are the most flavorful part of the bird and then he sets to work, making them even tastier. “We layer flavor. First we brine in fish sauce coriander seeds and garlic. This goes beyond marinating – it puts the flavor right into the bones. Then, when we bread the chicken, I get some flavor in there too. I use rice flour as it is lighter and makes for a crispier crumb but I season the flour with paprika and spices. After frying the wings we shake them in Vietnamese vinaigrette made with fresh lime and garlic. The wings are then served with a wedge of lime so you can squeeze that to add even more freshness.”

Franklin notes the two main external influences on Vietnamese cuisine: China, which shares a border with the country to the north; and France, which ruled the colony for six decades. “Those are the two of the greatest cuisines in the world. But we just took the best things from them. We still retain very Vietnamese characteristics in our cooking.”

To demonstrate, he brings out a beautiful sole dish the color of sunshine, lying on a bed of cool white rice noodles and bearing strands of feathery green dill. The faint aniseed scent of the dill and the delicate floral notes of turmeric rise enticingly from

the plate. “Turmeric root has a fresh taste, a subtle floral taste and a color more in the direction of saffron. We pound the root and use it to infuse oil. To make the fish dish we first fry it in brown butter, a technique learned from the French, but we mix the brown butter with turmeric oil. There is dill in this dish which is a very French ingredient. No one else in the Southeast Asia region cooks with dill. Then we add lime juice and onion. The use of citrus in this dish is classic Vietnamese, giving that fresh flavor.

It is a perfect harmony of the two cultures.”

The idea that there is an “authentic” way to cook Vietnamese dishes irritates Franklin, as he feels it misses the point of regional variations and the use of seasonal ingredients. But he also hates the word “fusion” and doesn’t want to be labeled as “modern” either as it carries with it the expectation of something molecular – smoke and bangs and foams. If you have to pigeonhole him, then you may describe his cooking style as “new Vietnamese cuisine.” “New shows we are looking at the cuisine and approaching it a slightly different way,” he says. “But you need to understand the core components of the dishes. You need to understand how people eat and why they eat that way. There are some things you can’t mess with. Some things are OK to change – some things aren’t.”

粉及香料。鸡翅炸完，再洒上越式香醋， 醋里加了新鲜莱姆和大蒜。最后附上莱姆 片，吃的时候挤点汁，口味更清爽不腻。」 Franklin 指出越菜受到两大外来文化影 响，一个是和越南北部接壤的中国，一个 是殖民越南六十年的法国。「这两国创造 了世界两大料理，但我们只撷取两种料理 的精华，我们的烹调方式仍然极富越南特 色。」 为了说明，他端出一道龙利鱼柳，鱼 身的颜色如阳光般迷人，底下铺了冰凉的 米粉，饰以几缕青翠欲滴的莳萝。盘中散 发出莳萝淡淡的八角味，以及姜黄优雅的 花香味，十 分 诱 人。「 姜 黄 根 味 道 清 新， 并带有微妙的花香，色彩类似藏红花。我 们磨碎姜黄根，浸入油里。这道鱼首先在 焦化牛油里煎过，焦化牛油是法式料理的 材料，但我们还加了姜黄油。搭配的莳萝

也十分富有法国风味，其他东南亚国家的 料理都看不到。然后加上莱姆汁和洋葱， 在菜肴中加入柑橘类也是经典的越菜特色， 可以让风味更清新。这道菜完美的融合了 两种文化。」有人提出越菜的「正宗」烹调 方式，Franklin 相当不以为然，他觉得这忽 略了地方特色与使用当令食材的要点。另 一方面，他也不喜欢「融合」这个词，也 不希望让人贴上「现代」的标签，因为这 仿佛预设了料理中会出现烟雾、爆炸、泡 沫等分子料理的元素。如果你一定要将他 的烹饪手法分类，或许可以称之为「新越 南料理 。」 Franklin 说 ： 「新代表我们用不同的方 式，来思考、处理越南菜。但你必须了解 越菜的核心，除了知道怎么吃，也要知道 背后的道理。世事存在皆有规律，有的事 可以改变，有些则要维持原则。」

Vietnamese Fried Chicken 越式炸鸡

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川菜香辣达人

�ichuan S pice

Maestro

He Jiang Executive Chef Zhao Li knows how to bring the heat with Sichuan’s spices, but says there is a lot more to the cuisine than the famous fire.

La Zi Chicken 歌樂山辣子雞

tasting notes

Executive Chef Zhao Li 行政主厨赵力

Braised Sliced Fish with Homemade Sichuan Sauce 老壇子魚片

“SICHUAN CUISINE is the only one in the

world that uses red peppercorns,” says He Jiang Executive Chef Zhao Li. A native of the province, he has been cooking professionally in the distinctive Sichuan style for nearly two decades and is a master of the spices and other ingredients that make up the cuisine’s flavor DNA. Indigenous to China’s landlocked western region and also known as Sichuan pepper, flower pepper or fagara, the red peppercorn is not closely related to black and white peppercorns, nor is it a pepper. It adds a unique layer of experience to a number of Sichuan dishes by causing a tonguetingling sensation – má in Mandarin – and an accompanying slight numbing of the lips.

In its younger, unripe green form, it is also used to add sourness to certain selections.

As proud as he is of Sichuan’s star spice, it’s also clear that Chef Li would like to change the popular impression that all Sichuan dishes abound in fiery chili peppers

Chef Li’s experience is invaluable when it comes to procuring top quality ingredients like the pickled vegetables he sources from Sichuan’s fertile Mount Emei region. 赵师傅多年经验练就了好眼力，像是四川肥 沃峨嵋山区所产的泡菜等顶级食材品质的优 劣与否，在他的眼皮子底下均无所遁形。 and lip-numbing red peppercorn. He says the cuisine features about a thousand combinations of ingredients. “Each dish we serve has its own unique flavor.”

In an effort to share a wide repertoire of Sichuan dishes with guests, He Jiang has updated its menu three times since opening in 2011. According to Chef Li, about sixty percent of the cuisine is not spicy at all. He points to recurring items

川菜餐厅「合江小镇」行政主厨赵力运用 各式香料裕如，带出的四川辣劲让人大呼 过瘾。不过师傅强调，川菜的诀窍可不只 是火候。 知名川菜餐厅「合江小镇」行政主厨 赵力自豪说道 ： 「四川料理是全世界唯一用 到花椒的菜系。」身为道地的四川人，赵师 傅已钻研川菜近二十个年头，对于各式香 料及川菜专属特殊食材的掌握已达炉火纯 青的境界。 flavor dna

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Clockwise from top: red chilli paste; white peppercorn; broad bean paste; unripe flower peppercorn; center – dried flower peppercorn 顺时钟从上而下：辣椒酱、白胡椒、豆瓣酱、半熟花椒；中间：干花椒

on the menu like the mildly seasoned roast duck and the camphor-smoked pigeon. And his Là Z J (Chicken with Chilies), though smothered in heaps of dry red chilies and Sichuan peppercorns that look ready to burst into flame, does not overwhelm. Chef Li keeps small chunks of leg and shoulder meat tender and moist with a marinade that includes a splash of baijiu liquor.

The chicken is deep-fried and then mixed with chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, cashew nuts, ground chili and other seasonings.

His version is a refined, slightly milder, less oily version of the classic dish served everywhere in Sichuan.

Most of He Jiang’s dishes are based on traditional Sichuan recipes, with Chef Li making expert alterations here and there.

Deep-fried Sichuan style spare ribs are made traditionally, but are accompanied

by Western touches like small potato croquettes and diced bell pepper and onion. A homemade Sichuan sauce served with braised fish is a complex crimson broth

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laced with large red and small green chilies, and with sliced pickled cabbage that adds salt, vinegar and crunch to contrast with the tender fish. In Sichuan, local freshwater catfish is often used. Chef Li makes the dish with Dover sole.

Chef Li’s experience is invaluable when it comes to procuring top quality ingredients like the pickled vegetables he sources from Sichuan’s fertile Mount Emei region. The delicacies are steeped in spiced vinaigrette in large traditional earthenware jars until mealtime when they are portioned into glass dishes. The mixture of sliced carrots, broccoli stems and white cabbage provides a splash of color on the table.

Spice expertise also helps when it comes to selecting Sichuan peppercorns. Chef Li knows just which plump young green ones are right for the job, and when working with ripe red fagara, he avoids the brightest specimens since they can be bitter. He cooks with three varieties of chilies, another basic flavor that characterizes Sichuan cuisine.

First is the classic Sichuanese short broad z dàn ji o variety, served fresh, dry or pickled and green. Second, the thinner and slightly longer xi o m là. And finally, the larger, less fiery èr j ng tiáo pepper.

Other essentials for Li include his housemade crimson chili paste and the deep vermillion broad bean paste which he says captures the soul of Sichuan cuisine. It’s made with beans, chili peppers, salt and a variety of other secret seasonings.

He always keeps the seasons in mind as he plans menus, featuring warming dishes in the winter and emphasizing sour ingredients in his summer dishes to help bolster appetites depleted by the heat.

Among Chef Li’s favorite dishes, both served at He Jiang, are the Sichuan classic mápó tòfu, a dish of spicy bean curd mixed with minced pork; and sliced pork fried with chili peppers. His mother fried the pork without the bean paste, but he includes it.

A chef willing and able to go beyond mom’s cooking – that’s a confident chef.

tasting notes

花椒，或称川椒，生长于中国大西部 内陆地区，与黑胡椒或白胡椒其实并无特 殊关联，甚至不属胡椒种类。许多四川菜 加入花椒调味，会带来舌头酥麻的特殊口 感 ( 就是中文讲的「麻」)，甚至连嘴唇也 会产生轻微麻痹感。在花椒尚未成熟，还 呈绿色时也常入菜，为特定几道料理增添 酸度。 赵师傅虽以四川的招牌花椒为荣，但 也想注入创新元素，打破川菜就等于喷火 辣味及花椒酥麻口感的既定印象。他说川 菜有上千种食材组合，相当丰富，「上桌的 每道菜都有自己独一无二的风味。」 为了让更多人品尝到四川料理博大精 深的美味，合江小镇自 2011 年开张至今 已经更新过三次菜单。主厨透露，其中有 六成都不是麻辣料理。菜单上重复出现的 人气菜色，像是调味恰好的烤鸭及樟木熏 烤乳鸽口味都相当温和。赵师傅的招牌辣 子鸡以大把大把的干红椒及四川花椒焖煮， 看似热辣十足，吃来却味道适中，不会让 人辣到嘴巴发痛。主厨特地精选小块腿肉 及肩肉浸至加入少许白酒的卤汁中入味，

让质地变得温湿软嫩，鸡肉经油炸后加入 干椒、四川花椒、腰果、辣椒粉及其他调 味料拌匀即可。赵师傅的改良版本比起一 般四川馆子的辣子鸡要清爽，吃来味道较 为温和，也更加精致。 合江小镇的菜色大部分以传统川菜作 法为本，再由主厨以精准眼光微调后而成。 四川酥炸肋排仿古法制作，但佐以小颗马 铃薯球、柿子椒及洋葱丁，增添一丝西式 风情。搭配炖鱼的自家制四川酱汁一般以 大条红辣椒及小条青辣椒为主原料，再放 入四川泡菜中的高丽菜切片添加咸醋风味 及口感，用味道繁复的大红汤汁衬托细嫩 的鱼肉。相较川蜀地方常见当地捕捉的新 鲜淡水鲶鱼，赵师傅选用的是比目鱼。 赵师傅多年经验练就了好眼力，像是 四川肥沃峨嵋山区所产的泡菜等顶级食材 品质的优劣与否，在他的眼皮子底下均无 所遁形。四川泡菜平常浸于满是辣味油醋 的大型老陶瓮中，吃饭时才视所需切片装 盘。泡菜中的红萝卜片、花椰菜根跟高丽 菜的色彩跃然桌上，增色不少。 主厨丰富的香料知识让他在挑选花椒

入菜时无往不利，像是肥厚的青绿半熟花 椒该怎么选，或如何避开光泽度最高的红 色花椒才不会太苦等等。他常用的三种辣 椒也是川菜基本调味的重要食材，包括地 道的四川子弹椒，体型短胖，可直接干吃 或半熟腌渍使用 ；第二种是偏薄、长形的 小米辣 ；最后是体型较大、辣度较低的二 金条。其他主厨的得力帮手还包括自家制 的大红辣椒酱及朱红色的辣豆瓣酱，后者 以蚕豆、辣椒、盐及多种调味秘方制成， 是川菜的灵魂所在。 赵师傅构思菜单时也非常重视季节更 迭带来的影响，冬天主打暖胃美食，而夏 季则加强料理中的酸味，唤醒饕客褥热天 气下尽失的胃口。 主厨自己最爱的两道菜在合江小镇都 吃 得 到， 有 辣 味 豆 腐 及 绞 肉， 加 入 猪 肉 片及辣椒拌炒而成的经典四川麻婆豆腐。 另一道炸猪肉赵师傅选用了有别于自己 母亲的做法，加进豆瓣酱增添风味。身为 一个厨师，敢于翻新老妈子的烹饪做法， 足以代表对自己的厨艺有十成的把握，信 心满满。

Deep-fried Spare Ribs, Sichuan Style 川香麻辣烧骨

Phad Kraprao Kae: Grilled Lamb, Garlic, Chili, Hot Basil 泰式烤羊扒

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佳节飨宴

a festive feast Spice up your Christmas at Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron CHRISTMAS AT SAFFRON is set to be a spicy affair. “Thai food is famous around the world for its use of fresh and dried spices and herbs. We’re using lots of turmeric, chili, hot basil and curry paste,” says Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungiaroenkijkul.

The Christmas menus, available on the 24th and 25th of December, feature traditional Thai dishes with festive twists and Chef Gina’s own unique touch. She says she likes to get creative and to see what she can do with Thai traditions. “Thai food begins with basic pastes and basic sauces, and I use them as a base. Then I like to experiment and try different things.”

The four-course lunch set menu features Thai favorites Tom Yum Goong soup and whole steamed grouper with a chili and lime dressing. “This is a very traditional dish to eat for Thai celebrations,” says Chef Gina.

The dinner menu is a festive buffet with an extensive selection of seafood on ice, appetizers, soups and salads, and a choice of mains cooked to order. Top picks include lobster with saffron curry, grilled lamb marinated in garlic chili and hot basil, fried snapper with mango sauce, and turkey with green curry.

“Christmas is a celebration,” says Chef Gina.

“It’s important to share special dishes.”

[CAPTION] 1. Pla Tord Yum Mamuang 泰式烤鱼 Fried Fish, Mango, Shallot, Spring Onion 2. Gaeng Saffron Goong Mungkorn 招 牌红咖喱龙虾 Lobster, Red Curry, Kaffir Lime 3. Phad Kraprao Kae 泰式烤羊扒 Grilled Lamb, Garlic, Chili, Hot Basil

Pla Tord Yum Mamuang: Fried Fish, Mango, Shallot, Spring Onion 泰式烤鱼

「尚坊 (Saffron)」的圣诞大餐香辣十足，让 人大呼过瘾。来自泰国的主厨 Gina Pungiaroenkijkul 自信满满表示 ： 「泰式料理以运 用各式新鲜干燥的香料及草本植物闻名于 世。这次我们大量使用了姜黄、番椒、打 抛酱和咖喱酱。」 圣诞套餐将于 12 月 24 日及 25 日限时 推出，除了传统泰式美味，另有佳节限定 佳肴及主厨 Gina 匠心独具的创意料理。她 脑袋充满新的点子，希望能与传统泰国菜 激荡出美味的火花 ： 「酱膏及酱汁是泰国菜 的基础，我也以此为出发点，大胆试验不 同的作法。」

午间套餐四道料理中，有最受欢迎的 人气料理泰式酸辣汤及缀以番椒和莱姆酱 汁的清蒸石斑。 Gina 说 ： 「泰国人在欢庆 佳节时都会选择这道传统料理。」 晚间套餐则是圣诞节限定的自助美 食 吧 ，各 式 铺 在 冰 块 上 的 海 鲜 、开 胃 菜 、 汤 品 及 沙 拉 应 有 尽 有， 还 有 供 单 点 的 多 种 主 餐， 包 括 招 牌 红 咖 喱 龙 虾、 蒜 香 辣 椒 烹 调 的 泰 式 烤 羊 扒、 泰 式 烤 鱼 佐芒果酱汁及绿咖喱火鸡等令人食欲 大开的美食。 Gina 开心的说 ： 「圣诞节是值得欢庆 的时刻，当然要一起分享特别的美味。」 flavor dna

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sponsored feature

“ Christmas is a celebration.

It’s important to share special dishes. 圣诞节是值得欢庆的时刻， 当然要一起分享特别的美味。

”

Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungiaroenkijkul

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Gaeng Saffron Goong Mungkorn: Lobster, Red Curry, Kaffir Lime 招牌红咖喱龙虾

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顶级牛排 快意滋味

primal pleasure At the Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau, The Kitchen is the place to go for a prime time steak fix.

Grade 5 Tomahawk Steak from Australia 澳洲五级Tomahawk 牛扒

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FOR THE DEDICATED CARNIVORE, there’s nothing quite like the primal pleasure provoked by the sight of a big fat juicy steak. At The Kitchen, on the third floor of the Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau, diners enjoy their meat deluxe style: only the best of the best steaks are on offer, from USDA prime to Australian wagyu to the highest grade cuts of Japanese Kagoshima beef.

Great cuts of meat are just the beginning.

At The Kitchen, the man behind the meat is Chef Wong Chi Leong. After twenty-one years in the business, he knows everything there is to know about cooking the perfect steak. “Temperature control is the most important thing to worry about when you cook a steak,” he says. “The oven should be red hot and the steak should be cold when it hits the grill.”

Chef Wong mans two ovens in the restaurant’s open kitchen – a raging fire keeps one at the highest temperature while a smaller fire burns in the other. The steaks are quickly seared in the hot oven to secure the

对无肉不欢的人来说，看到肥美多汁的大 块牛扒，足以挑起他们难掩的兴奋热情。 位于澳门新葡京酒店三楼的「大厨」餐厅， 精选出 USDA 特级澳洲和牛与日本鹿儿岛 和牛等顶级肉品，吸引饕客来场奢华的牛 扒飨宴。 选用上好牛肉只是个开始，已从事餐饮 业 21 年的「大厨」主厨黄志亮更清楚如何 才能烤制出完美牛扒。他说 ： 「烤牛扒最重 要是控制温度，烤箱要热得发烫，而牛扒 放上烤架时应该是冷的。」 在「大厨」的开放式厨房里，黄主厨一 人照顾两台烤炉，其中一台火力猛烈，温 度极高，而另一台则维持小火。先用大火 烤炉高温封锁牛扒肉汁，接着再以小火烤 炉继续烤到客人指定的熟度。 「大厨」所选肉品都由酒店西餐行政总 厨林国新从市场或向供应商亲自挑选。他 说： 「健康饲养的牛只，油花呈现漂亮的大 理石分布，口感非常软嫩。要挑最好的牛肉， 我从不假手他人。」 「大厨」的澳洲 Tomahawk 牛扒分量惊 人，肉香十足，滋味丰腴浓郁，对喜欢吃 肉的食客来说是一道梦幻餐点，或许两人

Grade 5 Tomahawk Steak from Australia 澳洲五级Tomahawk 牛扒

Deluxe Assorted Sashimi 特級刺身拼盤

feature

Pizza with Caviar, Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese 鱼子酱薄饼配烟三文鱼及忌廉芝士

juices, and then finished off and cooked to customers’ preferences over the smaller fire.

All the meat served at The Kitchen has been personally selected by Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau’s Executive Chef of Western Cuisine, Chef Andy Lam. “Healthily-fed cattle produce lovely marbling of the fat which makes the beef much more tender,” he says. “I trust no one but myself to pick out the best cuts.”

The Kitchen’s Australian Tomahawk is a dramatically large, bone-in steak with a big, rich flavor – a hungry meat eater’s dream, or maybe a dream for two. Cut from between the short rib and the rib eye, the 38-oz steak is not found in many restaurants.

“Not many suppliers have the ability or the equipment to make this cut of meat so it’s pretty unique,” says Chef Andy. “It can be difficult to cook because of its size and the bone,” adds Chef Wong.

For those taking a steak break, The

Kitchen’s deluxe sashimi platter is made from the freshest seasonal seafood, including blue fin tuna, lobster, yellowtail, striped jack, botan shrimp and sea urchin.

A new range of pizzas is also on offer.

One decadent option is topped with smoked salmon, cream cheese and caviar.

For Chef Wong, though, it’s all about the steaks. To get the most out of them, Wong recommends just a smattering of Japanese sea salt and ground white pepper to draw out the natural flavors of the steaks. “We want to respect the original flavors and that’s what we want our customers to taste,” he says.

“Too much seasoning will destroy the flavor of the beef.”

Chef Wong recommends letting a steak rest for about three minutes before serving, so the juices that have been drawn to the surface can relax back into the meat. Then all that’s left to do is tuck in. “Seeing customers enjoying my food makes me so happy.”

合吃也绰绰有余。牛肉取自牛小排及肋眼 之间的部位，重达 38 盎司，在一般餐厅并 不多见。林国新解释： 「这道牛扒非常特别， 因为有能力或设备供应的餐厅不多，而且 分量多又带骨，烤起来不容易。而足量带 骨的牛扒也增添了菜式的烹煮难度。」 除了牛扒，「大厨」也供应各式豪华刺 身，使用最新鲜的食材，包括蓝鳍金枪鱼、 龙虾、油甘鱼、缟 、牡丹虾、北紫海胆 等节令海鲜。此外更新推出鱼子酱薄饼， 饼皮上撒满烟三文鱼，忌廉芝士和鱼子酱， 滋味非常。 但对黄主厨来说，牛扒还是重头戏。要 享受牛扒最鲜美的滋味，他建议只要撒上 日本海盐并磨些白胡椒，就能引出牛肉的 天然风味。他说： 「我们希望保留牛肉原味， 也希望客人能尝到原汁原味。调味过度会 破坏牛肉的风味。」 主厨建议牛扒烤好后放三分钟再上菜， 让提升到表面的肉汁可以再吸收回到肉中， 接下来就可以大快朵颐了。「看到客人吃 得开心，我真的很高兴。」 flavor dna

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想来杯苹果酒吗?!

how do you like them apples A self-described cider nerd, Megan Broberg creates her Appleman cider using winemaking techniques.

She was recently in Hong Kong to launch new rosewater and sencha tea-flavored ciders.

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MEGAN BROBERG is as effervescent as the cider she makes. A former winemaker who has brought her knowledge and love of sparkling wine production to the orchard, she bubbles with enthusiasm as she talks about her move from grapes to apples and the science involved in creating a product that is all about pleasure.

“The first thing you want is the fruit in its pure and intact state,” she explains. “That’s difficult with apples as they are delicate.”

To ensure the fruit stays in peak condition, Broberg needs to keep oxygen out of the equation: “To extract the juice I use a beautiful press with carbon dioxide and nitrogen pumped over it so it is a completely oxygen-free environment. The white juice is extracted and then pumped directly into a tanker.”

Apples are temperamental things. Not only does a sniff of oxygen turn their juice an unappealing brown, but the levels of natural yeasts and sugars they contain mean that their environment needs to be kept cool, lest they start fermenting by themselves.

The juice in the tanker is kept at around five degrees as it is driven to the winery, where it

is pumped into another tank, cooled and left to settle for a couple of days.

Broberg wanted to capture the pure essence of the fruit in her cider, and to make a drink that was not just a one-sip wonder. “I found there was not enough consideration of the palate in cider making – how it feels, the texture in the mouth, the sensation of the acid and whether or not it has a finish.

A lot of other ciders have no finish, so you have a sip and it is apple-y and then it just drops away.”

Her scientific background and her own admission that she is “a nerd, who spends a lot of time in the lab” helped her to achieve her pure apple ideal. “A colder ferment will allow more fruit through, so the perfect yeast to use is one similar to that used with Chardonnay grapes. The high acidity levels of the fruit coupled with the need for a colder ferment means a sparkling wine yeast is ideal.” This style of cider is a long way from beer, where the yeast is encouraged by brewers to participate actively in the palate of flavors.

“I needed to find yeast with a completely neutral taste,” says Broberg. “I didn’t want

anything getting in the way of the fresh, delicious apples.”

A byproduct of the fermentation process does get in the way of a pure, clean flavor.

“Hydrogen sulphide – H2S – is a hazard of this particular cider-making style,” explains Broberg. “And it smells of rotten eggs – it really reeks!” Luckily she has some secret winemaker’s tricks up her sleeve that remove the stink and leave the cider smelling just of apples. Or of apples and roses. One of two new flavors just released in Hong Kong is made with a dash of rosewater for extra freshness. This cider is a beautiful pink liquid, the color of dawn. It’s off dry quality makes it the perfect aperitif, or a great foil for spice, as the slight sugariness helps to cool the latent heat of the chili peppers found in many spicy dishes.

Broberg’s flagship cider pairs a secret ingredient with the apples. With a little arm twisting, she relents and shares: “It’s one percent pear. I put it in just to give it a tiny bit more sweetness and depth.”

She shies away from using cider apples – the small, tough-skinned, sour fruits traditionally favored in more rustic blends.

Megan Broberg 的个性就像她酿造的苹果酒 一样生气勃勃。她过去曾担任酿酒师，将 专业知识与对气泡酒的热爱带到果园，以 满满的热情，滔滔不绝地畅谈如何从葡萄 转攻苹果，以及创造这瓶让人开怀畅饮的 苹果酒背后运用了什么技术。 她说 ： 「首先水果须保持纯净无瑕，这 很有难度，因为苹果是种脆弱的水果。」 为了让水果保持最佳状态，必须除去 氧气 ： 「我用一种很棒的榨汁机抽取果汁， 在里面打入二氧化碳和氮气，完全消除其 中的氧气。机器榨出白色的果汁，然后直 接注入桶中。」 苹果不好照顾，除了接触一点氧气，果 汁便会变成不漂亮的棕色之外，更因为含有 天然酵母和糖份，所以必须处于低温环境， 以免果汁自行发酵。桶中苹果汁的温度必须 保持在摄氏五度，一路运往酿造场，输入另 一个桶中，冷藏、静置沉淀一两天。

Broberg 想 在 苹 果 酒 中 保 留 苹 果 的 精 华，希望能让人喝完仍感受到芳香余韵。 「我发现过去酿造苹果酒没有仔细斟酌风 味，无论是质地、口感、酸度表现，是否 有尾韵等等，都不够留意。很多苹果酒没 有尾韵，刚喝一口可以尝到苹果味，然后 味道就消失了。」 Broberg 拥有科学研究背景，她也说自 己是个「研究狂，一天到晚泡在实验室」， 这些条件帮助她成功追求纯粹的苹果风味。 「苹果酒发酵要用比较多水果，所以最适合 使用夏多内葡萄用的酵母。苹果酸度高， 又必须在低温下发酵，所以气泡类葡萄酒 酵母最适合。」这种苹果酒和啤酒相当不同， 不像啤酒酿造商积极突显啤酒中的酵母风 味。 Broberg 说 ： 「我必须找到味道纯中性 的酵母，我不想让清新、芬芳的苹果中渗 入一点杂味。」 苹果纯粹清新的味道还会受到发酵的

副产品影响。 Broberg 解释： 「硫化氢（H2S） 对于我特殊的苹果酒酿造方法会造成一大 问题，闻起来就像臭鸡蛋，真的很臭！」 幸好她有酿酒师的秘密法宝，可以去除臭 味，只留下苹果的清香，或留下玫瑰的香 气－玫瑰新口味刚在香港推出，酒色呈现 美丽的粉红，就像曙光的颜色，加入玫瑰水， 更添清新气息。喝起来则略带甜度，是完 美的开胃酒，也适合搭配辛香食物，酒中 轻微的甜味能平衡辛辣料理中红辣椒的热 劲。 Broberg 的顶级苹果酒中还加入一种秘 方，经我们略为施压，她也大方透露 ： 「其 中有百分之一的梨子汁，能增添一点甜味 和层次。」 提到使用的苹果，她则避重就轻。酿 造用的是个头小、皮粗带酸味的苹果，传 统上用于较朴实的酒。「我用的所有水果 都是餐桌上的食用水果，生长在新南斯威

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“All the fruit I use is table fruit, grown in New South Wales,” she explains. “It is better for the cider I want to make.” She uses a very un-rustic technique to extract the juices from these premium fruits: a ‘reverse osmosis’ machine, so hi-tech it makes the Large Hadron Collider sound like a caveman’s flint knife. “It is a prohibitively expensive machine,” she laughs, “so I just hire it. I don’t think any winery could actually afford to use one.”

Regularly used in winemaking to lower alcohol levels, Broberg uses reverse osmosis to extract water from the apple and pear juices, leaving a rich, syrupy fruit reduction which adds to the palate feel she is seeking in her blend. “This more intense fresh juice gives a coating to the mouth which creates texture. And I think you can taste the pear more intensely too. There are a lot of aromatics in there.”

Broberg has been making Appleman cider now for over a year, and has come up with a cider that has a delicate, pure flavor with a delicious fizz. “I keep blending and blending on taste alone, and I keep coming back to the same formula. So I think I’ve got it right now.”

“ I found there was not enough consideration of the palate in cider making – how it feels, the texture in the mouth, the sensation of the acid and whether or not it has a finish.”

尔州。这类苹果比较适合我想酿的苹果酒。」 从这些优质水果萃取果汁的技术就毫不朴 实了－ Broberg 采用逆渗透机，和这台机 器相较之下，大型强子对撞机就像穴居人 的打火石。 Broberg 笑着说 ： 「这台机器非 常昂贵，我只能租用。我想没有一家酿酒 厂买得起。」 逆渗透机在酿酒中通常用来降低酒精 浓度，Broberg 则用来抽取苹果汁与梨子汁 中的水分，留下浓郁、糖浆般的浓缩果汁， 以达到她所追求的质地。「这种比较浓郁 的新鲜果汁会包覆口腔，创造口感，也能 尝到更香浓的梨子风味。其中含有很多芳 香烃。」 Broberg 酿造 Appleman 苹果酒已经一 年多，创造的苹果酒风味精粹纯净，还有 宜人的气泡。「我根据味道一再重新调制， 最后得到的配方都是相同的，所以我想我 已经找到最理想的酿制方法了。」 flavor dna

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旧世风华

old world charm Styled after the old Bela Vista Hotel, Grand Lapa Macau’s highly refined Café Bela Vista combines elegant architecture and palate-invigorating cuisine.

WICKER CHAIRS sit invitingly along the old colonial verandah under swaying palm trees and whirring white fans. Sunlight pours in through louvered shutters and dapples across the mosaic floor. To visit Grand Lapa Macau’s Café Bela Vista is to step out of time and pass into a realm of old world elegance.

An open kitchen and live cooking stations serve up a variety of Asian dishes, international favorites, and Macanese and Portuguese specialties. Executive Sous Chef Tan Lee Kiong enlivens his stylish dishes with spices from his native Malaysia.

“Malaysian cuisine is a mix of Indian, Malay and Chinese. That really shows in my food,” he says. “I love to work with Sarawak black pepper. It has such a bold flavor – it can really hold its own in a curry.”

His Tandoori Crusted Salmon relies heavily on Indian spices, mint chutney and

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paneer cheese. He strips a Malaysian Curry Laksa down to its core qualities in order to focus on pure, true flavors. A spicy oxtail Soup Ekon is served with ravioli wrapped in wonton skin.

The all-day dining at the Café Bela Vista includes a breakfast buffet, a semi-lunch buffet, afternoon tea sets, and an a la carte menu in the evening. The weekend seafood dinner buffets draw crowds of dedicated diners.

“My mother’s Malaysian curry was the dish that inspired me to become a chef,” says Chef Tan. “She would ask me to pick the spices up from the market, and get me to grind the garlic and ginger. It was back then that I realized I had a passion for cooking.”

Elegant, old world surroundings and delicious, palate-invigorating dishes make for a soul-satisfying combination.

旧殖民风格露台上摆着柳条椅，可邀亲朋 来歇歇腿 ；一旁棕榈树叶影摇曳，白色的 吊扇徐徐转动。阳光透过百叶窗格倾泻， 在马赛克地板上洒上斑斓光影。造访澳门 金丽华酒店的荟景阁咖啡厅，仿佛穿过时 光隧道，走入旧世界的优雅国度。 咖啡厅内有开放式厨房和现场烹饪台， 提供各式亚洲佳肴、国际美食，以及澳门 sl 和葡萄牙特色料理。助理行政总厨陈利强 先生采用家乡马来西亚当地香料，赋予充 满时尚味的料理鲜活生命力。 陈利强说 ： 「马来西亚结合了印度、马 来西亚和中国文化，这点充分呈现在我的 料理中。我喜欢运用沙劳越黑胡椒，它的 风味突出，即使在咖喱中也香气鲜明。 」 马来西亚咖喱叻沙展现菜色精髓，讲求纯 粹、真实的风味。 荟景阁咖啡厅全天供应餐点，包括自助 早餐、半自助午餐、下午茶套餐，晚上则 供应单点菜色。周末供应海鲜自助晚餐， 许多客人慕名而来。 陈利强说道 ： 「我受到母亲的马来西亚 咖喱启发，才选择厨师一职。母亲会要我 去市场挑选香料，要我磨大蒜和生姜。自 那时起我就知道我是非常热爱烹饪。」 抚慰心灵的精致佳肴，别出心裁的鲜活 风味，荟景阁咖啡厅呈献让人食指大动的 完美结合。

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Chef Tan’s Tandoori Crusted Salmon relies heavily on Indian spices, mint chutney and paneer cheese. 陈利强的坦都里窑烤脆皮三文鱼大量使用印度香料、 薄荷甜酸酱与菠菜奶酪。

 Spicy Soup Ekor with Oxtail Wonton Ravioli. 香辣牛尾汤配意大利馄饨。

 Chef Tan strips a Malaysian Curry Laksa down to its

core qualities in order to focus on pure, true flavors. 马来西亚咖喱叻沙展现菜色精髓，讲求纯粹、真实的风味。

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绿维特利纳的多重风貌

the many guises of austria’s grüner veltliner WHEN REFERRING to their signature white grape, Grüner Veltliner, Austrians use a special word: Pfefferl. It refers to the distinctive notes of white pepper which appear in the nose and finish of Grüner Veltliner wines.

But these wines have complex flavor profiles that feature not just the characteristic spice but also notes of citrus and stone fruit, intense minerality and, in recent vintages, hints of tropical fruit. Alcohol levels range from 11% to 14.5%. Acidity is elevated, guaranteeing freshness and zest.

With around a third of Austria’s vineyards planted with Grüner Veltliner, it is still the dominant grape varietal in the country despite losing more than a fifth of its acreage in the past decade. Reduced quantity has been accompanied by enhanced quality and even as Grüner acreages have been shrinking, the wine has been enjoying a surge of global popularity. Connoisseurs around the world refer to it as Gruner, Gru-Ve, or GV. Grüner Veltliner plantings are still relatively rare outside Austria and so far the unique terroir of eastern Austria seems to suit the grape best.

In Austria, Grüner can be found everywhere. In the local Heurigen, or wine taverns, the young wine is often served with sparkling water as a refreshing spritzer. More serious Grüners make for a good aperitif and the wine has demonstrated a wonderful capacity for accompanying a wide variety of dishes and cuisines, from sushi and shellfish to Chinese dishes.

Though most often enjoyed young, Grüner Veltliner has been steadily winning a reputation as a wine that ages incredibly well, rivaling the longevity of the greatest Bugundies and Rieslings, with some examples still fresh and complex even after five decades.

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随着奥地利酿造出愈来愈多精彩的红酒， 最闪亮的葡萄品种仍是土生土长、辛香萦 绕 的「 绿 维 特 利 纳 」(Grüner Veltliner)。 谈到他们著名的白葡萄「绿维特利纳」时， 奥地利人会提及一特殊字眼 ：Pfefferl，指 的是绿维特利纳鲜明的白胡椒香气与尾韵。 绿维特利纳葡萄酒风味丰富多样，除 了特有的香料味，也有柑橘、桃李、强烈 的矿石味，近年酿造的产品更有热带水果 香气 ；酒精含量从 11% 到 14.5% 不等，酸 度较高，喝来爽口清冽。 大约三分之一奥地利葡萄园种植着 绿 维 特 利 纳， 尽 管 过 去 十 年 来， 耕 作 面 积减少了五分之一以上，但其仍是奥地利 的主要葡萄品种。即使耕作面积下降，品 质却不减反升，产量虽减，却在全球爱酒 人士间掀起一阵旋风，各地鉴赏家称之为 Gruner、Gru-Ve 或 GV。 绿维特利纳在奥地利之外较为罕见， 捷克及匈牙利有部分种植，最近澳大利亚、 美国与新西兰也开始尝试。目前为止，奥 地利东部独特的风土条件似乎最适合此种 葡萄生长。 绿维特利纳葡萄酒在奥地利随处可见， 当地小酒馆 Heurigen 会在年份较短的绿维 特利纳中加入气泡水，作为清凉饮料，年 份较长的绿维特利纳则适合当开胃酒，可 搭配从寿司、带壳海鲜到中国菜等各式各 样的菜肴与料理。 绿维特利纳虽然多半在新酿好时饮用， 但酒界已渐渐发现它陈年后表现依然非常 出色，比起顶级的勃根地红酒与雷司令白 酒亦不遑多让。有些放置五十年后，喝来 依旧层次丰富、新鲜清爽。

Scenes from eastern Austria, where red grapes have been gaining ground but Grüner Veltliner is still the star. 此景摄于奥地利东部，红葡萄初受青睐 之时，绿维特利纳依然是耀眼明星。

FROM TOP LEFT: AWMB/LUKAN, GERHARD TRUMLER, FABER, KOMITEE KAMPTAL , LUKAN, EGON MARK , FABER, KOMITEE KAMPTAL , BERNHARD SCHRAMM, ÖWM/GOTSCHIM

Austria has been producing more and more wonderful reds, but the country’s star grape is still the native, distinctively spicy Grüner Veltliner.

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Chef de Cuisine Guillaume Galliot

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主厨做主 创意上菜

leave it up to the chef Chef Guillaume Galliot’s precision in the kitchen, mastery of his ingredients and improvisational wizardry make a meal at The Tasting Room one of the most satisfying gourmet experiences in the region.

“THE SECRET to perfectly cooked crab is to

match the grams with the cooking time,” says Guillaume Galliot, Chef de Cuisine at The Tasting Room, City of Dreams Macau. “Five hundred grams of crab needs to be cooked for five hundred seconds.”

Cooking perfect crab is essential for Chef Guillaume’s signature dish of Alaskan crab tartar. Served in the empty shell of a razor clam, the crab is topped with pieces of the clam, bright segments of grapefruit and orange, and sprigs of coriander. A caviar and champagne sauce balances the strong sea flavors. “When you go to Brittany and get a wave of that strong sea smell – that is what this dish is like,” he says.

Guillaume cooks in a pure, direct style, aiming to coax his ingredients into communicating their true essence. Like every great chef, he has a deep understanding of how to take advantage of the bounty of each season and delights in the new possibilities that are constantly arriving. The arrival of autumn means one thing most of all: white truffles. “Every dish I make with white truffles I try to pair with rich ingredients. That’s the perfect match for a truffle,” he says. “You

澳门新濠天地「御膳房」主厨 Guillaume Galliot 和大家分享煮螃蟹的秘诀 ： 「煮好螃 蟹的诀窍就是有多少克的螃蟹，就煮多少 时间。五百克蟹肉就煮五百秒。」 煮出完美的螃蟹，才能做出 Guillaume 主厨的招牌菜「阿拉斯加皇帝蟹鞑靼」。这 道菜以蛏子壳盛装蟹肉，上铺蛏肉，再加 上晶莹剔透的葡萄柚与柑橙瓣，缀以芫荽 枝，最后以鱼子酱和香槟酱汁平衡强劲的 海洋风味结尾。主厨强调 ： 「这道菜要营造

Abalone Carbonara Style with 56 Month Pata Negra Ham, White Truffles. 煙肉忌廉鮑魚配五十六個 月西班牙火腿及白松露

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Roasted Turbot with Alaskan King Crab Tartar, White Truffles, Caviar and Champagne Sauce. 燒多寶魚配皇帝蟹韃靼 伴白松露及香檳魚子汁

have to understand what works together. I don’t use white truffles with tomatoes – it’s just a combination that doesn’t work.”

The Tasting Room’s “Up to the Chef” menu was born from Guillaume’s love of improvising dishes on the spot using fresh daily ingredients. Usually an eight-course meal, diners put the menu aside and place their trust in Guillaume, who surprises and delights with special dishes created using the best products in the kitchen. “I look at all the ingredients in front of me, and let my creative side come out,” he says. “I use very high quality products – truffles, caviar, sea bass, crab. Every day can be different.”

For Guillaume’s abalone carbonara, strips of abalone are julienned to resemble spaghetti. “There is no pasta in this dish,” he says. “All the other ingredients that you find in a carbonara are there, just not the pasta.”

Unlike the traditional Chinese method of braising abalone for hours, Guillaume cooks his for only thirty seconds to give the same texture as al-dente pasta. The carbonara is topped with a quail egg, chopped chives, Parmesan cheese and Iberico ham, and in the autumn and winter months, shaved white truffles. “The power of the fragrance that the white truffle brings to the dish is quite interesting,” he says.

The dishes at The Tasting Room may be constantly changing, from day to day and from season to season, but one thing that doesn’t change is Guillaume’s attention to detail and ambition to deliver a superior, truly memorable dining experience. “When I was twelve years old, I would watch all the big chefs – Robuchon, Ducasse – on the television. I was fascinated by that level of cuisine. Cooking is a bit like a military operation; everything has to be perfect, clean, and well presented. I like that. I thought: that’s what I want to do.” Mission accomplished.

的，就是你在布列塔尼会闻到的那股海水 强烈鲜明的味道。」 Guillaume 主厨烹饪的方式纯粹、直 接，目标是诱发食材最纯正的风味。和其 他厨艺高超的大师一样，他非常了解如何 撷取当季特有的丰富食材，不停创造出新 的风味。秋天的重头戏就是白松露。他说： 「每道选用白松露的菜式都必须搭配滋味 浓郁的食材，相得益彰。厨师必须了解什 么食材适合互相搭配，而我则不会同时使 用白松露和西红柿，这种搭配味道就是不 对。」 主厨热衷于运用每天的新鲜食材即兴 发挥，因此催生了御膳房的「总厨精选套 餐」，套餐菜色由主厨决定，一般有八道， 饕客只管把菜单放一边，让主厨精心挑选 厨房里最出色的食材，打造令人惊喜的独 特佳肴。主厨说： 「我会检视眼前所有食材， 大玩创意，选用的都是高级食材，像是松 露、鱼子酱、海鲈鱼、螃蟹等，每天都有 新变化。」 例如，Guillaume 主厨的特色菜「烟肉 忌廉鲍鱼」，就是将鲍鱼切成条，仿造意大 利面条。他说明： 「这道菜里没有意大利面， 其他烟肉忌廉意大利面的材料盘里都有， 就是没有意大利面。」 主厨烹调鲍鱼的方法与中国传统炖上 几小时不同，只烫三十秒，创造与意大利 面相同、外软内韧的口感。此外，再加上 鹌鹑蛋、切碎的细香葱、帕马干酪和伊比 利亚黑毛猪火腿，秋冬时节更会削入白松 露，「白松露的香味力道十足，让这道料理 更有意思。」 御膳房的菜色可能每天、每季都在变 化，但有一件事不变，就是主厨永远注重 细 节、 充 满 抱 负， 努 力 端 出 让 人 回 味 无 穷的顶级料理。「十二岁的时候，我会看 Robuchon、Ducasse 等 大 厨 的 电 视 节 目， 那种高水准的料理让我深深着迷。烹饪有 点像军事行动，一切必须完美熟练、干净 俐落、成果出色。我享受这种感觉，以至 于当时就下定决心担任这样的工作。」毫 无疑问，Guillaume 主厨已经圆满达成任 务了。 flavor dna

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Private Dining Room 贵宾房

私房菜

private dining Grand Hyatt Macau has lifted private dining to new heights.

WITH THEIR PRIVATE DINING ROOMS , on the 37th floor of the Grand Club

澳门君悦酒店的「尊贵独立贵宾房」，高踞「嘉宾

Tower, Grand Hyatt Macau offers a high-flying VIP dining experience.

轩楼」顶层三十七楼，能让宾客在高空拥有不同

Guests can enjoy gourmet meals in four elegantly appointed Private

凡响的美食体验。宾客可于四间高雅的独立贵宾

Dining Rooms with panoramic views of the Cotai.

房内享用各色佳肴 , 饱览路氹风光。

The ambience is luxurious down to every last detail. Different moods

在贵宾房内，每处细节都能展现奢华高贵的

are set with five different sets of fine French porcelain, matching floral

氛围。房内提供五款不同的餐桌布置，每款均包

centerpieces, candles, and exquisite crystal glassware.

括精巧法国瓷器，鲜艳花卉，蜡烛和精美水晶杯，

Executive Sous Chef Stephen Au leads Grand Hyatt Macau’s dedicated banquet team. He traveled around Southern China while designing the

以配合不同场合的主题。 行政副总厨欧汝初带领酒店的专业宴会团

special menu for the Private Dining Rooms. “I have a passion for creating

队。他曾走遍中国南部， 为的就是构思特色菜单。

delicacies that guests will enjoy, and for surprising them by cooking

欧师傅说 ： 「我热切期盼能创造出让客人满意的

traditional dishes using new methods,” he says. Diners can also choose

精致佳肴，并以创新手法制作传统菜式，带给客

menu items from acclaimed Grand Hyatt Macau restaurants like Beijing

人惊喜。」此外，宾客也可点选酒店内各餐厅的精

Kitchen and mezza9 Macau.

选菜式，如「满堂彩」与 mezza9 Macau 餐厅等。

Everything here – from the décor to the food to the plates – is designed to deliver a superior level of satisfaction.

贵宾房内的每件物件，从食物的摆盘到供菜 的装碟，均代表着为宾客提供优质和满意的服务。

Guests can book the Private Dining Room with a minimum charge of MOP$12,000 plus 10% service charge. See page 156 for additional details. 宾客均可预订独立贵宾房，房间最低消费为澳门币12,000, 另加10％服务费。详情请查阅本刊第156页。

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sponsored feature

Executive Sous Chef Stephen Au 行政副总厨欧汝初

藜麦龙虾沙拉

quinoa lobster salad I WANTED TO MAKE a dish using quinoa.

Although it’s been around for centuries, it has only recently started to get trendy and a lot of people still don’t know what it is.

2013 is actually the International Year of Quinoa, so this dish is a great way to celebrate the occasion. This has been one of our signature dishes for two years. It’s a very healthy dish, very refreshing and very tasty.

Our guests love it.

The quinoa grain is known for its nutritional value; it is a great source of complete protein and calcium and it is a good source of dietary fibers. You have to be careful not to overcook it or it can go soft. When it’s cooked perfectly it should still have a slight crunch to it.

To give more value to the quinoa I have put it together with lobster. Our customers really enjoy seafood, and lobster is a favorite.

There is really no secret to cooking the perfect lobster – you just have to put in a lot of love and respect the cooking techniques. You can make sure your lobster is full of flavor by poaching it in a court bouillon with sea salt and some vegetables.

Orange vinaigrette gives the lobster and quinoa a citrusy punch. The dish is decorated with romaine leaves, which add a fresh crispy texture and a nice bright green color.

We finish it with colorful edible flowers, and I add fresh lychee, which people in Asia love.

It’s very important to season this dish à la minute – if you season it in advance, things go soggy. I like to use fleur de sel, as regular salt melts too quickly. Fleur de sel is great right at the end, to give a little extra character to the dish. Finally and most importantly, presentation is key: guests eat with their eyes first and seeing the dish should inspire a nice big appetite.

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Elie Khalife, Chef de Cuisine at MGM MACAU’s Aux Beaux Arts, was ahead of the trend when he created a signature dish using quinoa. Here he shares how to make this newest superfood shine. 澳门美高梅酒店宝雅座总厨Elie Khalife引领潮流，以藜麦创造招 牌佳肴。且看他分享如何让藜麦 这种最新的超级食物大放异彩。

之前我想用藜麦做一道菜，藜麦虽然已经 有几百年历史，但最近才流行起来，还有 很多人不晓得藜麦是什么。 2013 年是国际 藜麦年，刚好能用这道菜来庆祝。这道菜 两年来一直是我们的招牌菜，健康、清爽 又美味，客人都很喜欢。 藜麦以营养丰富闻名，含有完整的蛋 白质和钙，同时富含膳食纤维。烹调时必 须小心不要煮过头以免太软，藜麦煮得刚 刚好时应该还略带爽脆。 为了增加藜麦的价值，我选用龙虾搭 配。我们的客人很喜欢吃海鲜，尤其喜欢 龙虾。煮好龙虾其实没有什么秘诀，只需 要投入热情，并照着烹饪技巧来做就行了。 把龙虾放入煮鱼用的调味汤中，加上海盐 与少许蔬菜，煮出的龙虾就会滋味鲜美。 香橙油醋汁赋予龙虾与藜麦清爽的柑 橘风味，以萝蔓生菜装饰，则能增添新鲜 爽脆的口感及漂亮的鲜绿色，最后再加上 丰富多彩的食用花卉。我还会加入新鲜荔 枝，亚洲人很喜欢荔枝。 记住，一定要在客人点菜后再调味， 如果事先调味，整道菜都会变得湿漉漉的。 调味时我喜欢用盐之花，因为一般的盐融 化太快。盐之花有画龙点睛之妙，赋予这 道菜额外风味。最后，最重要的，摆盘非 常关键，客人是先用眼睛品尝的，这道菜 的美丽卖相应该能引发好食欲。

Chef de Cuisine Elie Khalife

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Quinoa Lobster Salad with Fresh Lychee and Orange Vinaigrette QUINOA

50 grams Quinoa grain 20 grams shallots 20 grams French chives 5 pcs of Corinth raisins 1 leaf of basil 1 fresh lychee ½ orange salt/pepper

LOBSTER

2 liters water 1 tbls sea salt 30 grams carrot 30 grams celery 30 grams onion 30 grams leek 1 bay leaf ½ tbls black pepper

ORANGE VINAIGRETTE 200 grams fresh orange juice 1 tbls extra virgin olive oil salt/pepper

GARNISH 1 romaine leaf mixed edible flowers 1 fresh lychee 1 orange olive oil

Quinoa: Cover the quinoa with three times that amount of water. Add salt and cook over low heat until the water is absorbed. Place in a bowl to cool down in the fridge, then add the lemon juice, olive oil, chopped shallots and French chives, the Corinth raisins, chopped basil, orange zest, and salt and pepper.

Lobster: Heat the water to boiling in a pot with the sea salt and the vegetables. Add the lobster and cook for five minutes. Remove the claws and cook them for another minute. Transfer to ice water to stop the cooking process and to cool the flesh down. Break the shells and remove the lobster, cut it in nice pieces and season it with olive oil, fleur de sel, pepper, and orange zest.

Orange Vinaigrette: Reduce the orange juice with some

orange skin to 3⁄4, cool down and whisk with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

Finishing: In an 8-cm diameter ring place the quinoa

salad and arrange the lobster nicely on top. Add the halved lychee, the orange, and the romaine leaf. Decorate with the edible flowers, some fresh baby cress and finish with the orange vinaigrette around the plate.

Bon appétit!

藜麦龙虾沙拉佐新鲜荔枝及香橙油醋汁 藜麦沙拉

50 克藜麦 20 克珠葱 20 克法国香葱 5 粒科林斯葡萄干 1 枝罗勒 1 颗新鲜荔枝 ½ 个柳橙 盐／胡椒

藜麦：把藜麦放入三倍的水中，加入 盐，以小火煮至水被吸收。将藜麦放入 碗里，置于冰箱中放凉，再加入柠檬 汁、橄榄油、切碎的珠葱和法国香葱、 科林斯葡萄干、切碎的罗勒、橙皮、盐 和胡椒。 龙虾：在水中加入海盐及蔬菜，锅中煮

龙虾

2 升水 1 大匙海盐 30 克胡萝卜 30 克芹菜 30 克洋葱 30 克韭葱 1 片月桂叶 ½ 大匙黑胡椒

香橙油醋汁 200 克新鲜柳橙汁 1 大匙特级初榨橄榄油 盐／胡椒

装饰 1 片罗蔓生菜叶 各种食用花卉 1 颗新鲜荔枝 1 个柳橙 橄榄油

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沸。加入龙虾煮五分钟，虾螯单独再煮 一分钟。放入冰水以冰镇并冷却虾肉。 剥壳取出虾肉，切细片，以橄榄油、盐 之花、胡椒、橙皮调味。 香橙油醋汁：柳橙汁加入一些橙皮，加 热浓缩至3/4，放凉后拌入橄榄油、盐和 胡椒。 盛盘：将藜麦沙拉排成直径八公分的 环，上面整齐铺排龙虾。加入切半的荔 枝、柳橙、萝蔓生菜。装饰食用花卉、 一些新鲜的水芹婴，最后浇上一圈香橙 油醋汁。 Chef de Cuisine Elie Khalife

请慢用！

wine masters

曜黑纯酿

dark matter Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon Chef de Cave, is fascinated with the shadows of life, the invisible and the unknown. “We think we are on top of everything but we know so little,” he says. “It’s exciting but also terrifying.” When he makes wine, Geoffroy is interested in tension and flux, the restraint in the structure of a blend that conceals flavor notes, allowing a wine to gradually reveal itself and to express previously hidden elements of its character.

He told TK recently that the recently released Dom Pérignon is just such a wine: quiet and elegant, but with complexity and great depth. § 香槟之王「Dom Pérignon」酒窖总监 Richard Geoffroy 深深着迷于生命的幽暗、肉眼所不及或未知事物。他解释道：「人

类总以为自己高高在上，实际上我们所知甚少，想来虽令人有点害怕，同时却让人兴 奋不已。」酿酒过程中的强度变化及酒体平衡都是他相当注重之处，混和不同葡萄种 的酿制方式使得风韵内敛慢发，葡萄酒得以逐渐散发自身特性，凸显深藏的隐性特 质。Geoffroy最近接受TK访问，便形容 Dom Pérignon 最新发售的2004年酒款正具备上 述优点：沉稳、优雅的同时，又不失引人入胜的繁复风味及深度。

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How does Dom Pérignon work with food?

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I think Dom Pérignon has that special capacity to make it through an entire meal. I think there is a sort of harmony and embracing quality and flux in the wine that can raise itself to any challenge. Even the most gentle vintage. When the wine is on such a scheme of harmony it has that flux to adapt.

How about with Chinese food, served family style with its complex and varied flavors?

You can start off with very gentle flavors but the same wine can move on – from Cantonese to Sichuan. The wine adjusts with each flavor. So the wine remains at the level – it doesn’t impose itself, it is always on a par, never above. We served one vintage, 1999, at a dinner that started with oysters

and finished with a chocolate dessert. This one could do well with Chinese food. The full-bodied 2003 could definitely work, even with heat and spice.

How do you make it like that?

The way Dom Pérignon is blended together, opposing the two grape varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – it’s yin and yang leading to harmony. Something which has always appealed to me, I adjust it every year – there is balance. It is never the same.

You can never replicate. You have to recreate and the whole blending process is driven by taste.

Which specific bottles would you recommend with a Chinese meal?

COURTESY OF DOM PÉRIGNON

Tell us about the 2004 vintage.

All these vintages are so different – pure expressions of the seasons, of Mother Nature. Creating a wine is a balancing act between what comes from the venue and the vintage.

The 2003 vintage was plumper, more ample. It almost had a still wine quality, a glorious golden white Burgundian character.

But in ‘04 we are back to the classics – that’s the perception of the outside. It’s very elegant – I am suspicious of the term elegant because it is sometimes used to hide something that is lightweight – but this is not. It is truly elegant.

Oenotheque single release 1995/1996.

This would be able to cope with seafood, vegetables, meat, soup, salty dishes. I would also consider Dom Pérignon rosé – one single rosé wine to accompany a whole banquet.

Champagne is seen as a drink for celebrations. But does it intimidate some people?

Champagne is not just for special occasions. And celebrations don’t have to be formal – I don’t like formality. Drinking Champagne should be natural, a celebration of life. People can be intimidated by Champagne but that saddens me. I hope I get the right balance when I make these wines, so they are more approachable. I don’t want intimidation. Wines are like people – you need to find the right distance of friendliness and respect. Nobody should be entitled to be intimidating to others. It’s about finding the sensible distance. All life is like that.

You studied medicine. What are the similarities between medicine and wine making?

Both disciplines are about living things.

There is so much life in wine. Grapes without yeast are nothing – they go bad. Wine making is about how can you convert something perishable into something durable and joyful.

What is it about the flavor of Champagne that fascinates you most?

When it comes to food and wine and life, I am more interested in the dark than the light. In Chinese cuisine it is the dark flavours, like fermented soy beans and black beans. I am always screening, checking and tasting to discover more flavors. I am more interested in shade than light, in those flavors that are less visible in food and wine.

With Dom Pérignon 2004 it is the beautiful minerality and darkness within the blend. If you are too drawn by the visible lures you miss so much. Think of the universe – the dark matter. It’s amazing and scary all at once. We know so little. So I have a tendency to search for the invisible.

跟我们介绍一下这款 2004 年的葡萄酒。 因为季节或自然条件不同，每款酒呈 现的风情也各有所异。酿酒可以说是在产 地 及 葡 萄 产 量 间 巧 妙 拿 捏 的 一 门 学 问。 2003 年 的 葡 萄 比 较 丰 盈， 产 量 也 大， 几 乎齐备酿制静态葡萄酒的条件，直追盛名 在外、白勃艮第顶级金黄白酒的品质。但 2004 年我们回归经典款，评价如同我们的 一 径 形 象 － 极 度 优 雅。 有时酒体清淡的酒品也 用优雅一词带过，让我 对此形容多有保留。不 过 Dom Pérignon 2004 年葡萄酒可是货真价实、 无从挑剔的极度优雅。

「Oenotheque」1995/1996 经典年份单 次限量酒款。它与海鲜、蔬菜、肉类、汤 品及调味偏咸的菜色都可搭配，或是 Dom Pérignon 玫瑰香槟也很适合，于席间单支 酒从头喝到尾绝对没问题。

香槟似乎已成为欢庆的代名词，但是否也 让人觉得有点高不可攀？ 没有规定香槟仅能 在特殊场合饮用，庆祝 也可以很随意，像我就 不喜欢太正式。香槟就 该惬意的享受、发自内 心礼赞人生的美好才对， 所以知道有人对香槟敬 而远之实在让我很伤心。 我希望每次酿制不同葡 萄酒款都能达到最佳平 衡，让更多人愿意一尝 其芳香滋味，而非拒 “ 酒 ” 于千里之外。葡萄酒其 实跟人很像，都需要拿捏亲疏远近、相互 尊重。并非有人天生就该令人害怕，如何 维持适当的舒适距离才是关键。我想人生 中每件事都不外如是。

“ There is so much life in wine.

陶醉于葡萄酒 中的生活。”

Dom Pérignon 的 餐 酒 搭配如何？ Dom Pérignon 就 是 有种特别的魔力，用餐 期间能使醇香风韵丝毫 不减。酒中完美的酒体平衡，碰到各种食 材都能搭配、调和的天衣无缝，即使是最 温和的酒款，它的调和性也不打折扣，均 能视料理不同调适自身到最佳状态。

碰到味道繁复多变、家庭式上菜的中国菜 又如何呢？ 可以从味道比较清淡的菜色吃起，不过 同样一支酒其实从广东菜吃到四川菜都行， 味道百搭。我们的酒喝来没有任何勉强之 处，四平八稳、韵致始终如一。像以生蚝为 开胃菜的晚餐，到最后一道巧克力甜点，用 1999 年的酒款都能搭配的恰到好处。浓醇 的 2003 年葡萄酒也绝对是最佳选择，配上 辛辣热炒的菜色都能发挥的相得益彰。 怎样让葡萄酒达到如此境界？ 关键在于 Dom Pérignon 独到的混酿方 式，即将白葡萄之王「夏多内 (Chardonnay)」 及红葡萄种「黑皮诺 (Pinot Noir)」两种风 味迥异的葡萄品种混搭，如同阴阳调和般 创造出极致的风味。混和比例每年都要调 整，追求完美平衡让我乐在其中。因为比 例从不雷同，根本也无从仿制。每次都要 重新混酿与创造，就是要让味道提升到最 佳层次。 搭配中菜会特别推荐哪一支酒 ?

您是学医出身，有发现医学和酿酒的相似 之处吗？ 两者都与生命息息相关。酿酒是有生 命的，何其丰富。葡萄没有了酵母便形同 无物，就会劣化。把容易腐化的素材变化 为恒远、令人欢愉的佳酿－ 酿酒便是如此 的一门艺术。 香槟有何种魔力让你深深着迷、至今无法 自拔？ 谈到食物、美酒及人生，比起光明特质、 最吸引我的反而是它们的幽暗面，像在中菜 里便是发酵的大豆黑豆等较暗较重的味道最 吸引我的注意。我不时留心、四处品尝确认 口味，希望挖掘出更多不同的味道。我喜爱 阴暗甚于明亮，套用在食物及酒，就是那些 不易得见的元素。 Dom Pérignon 2004 年混 酿便具有阴暗的特性，带着引人入胜的矿物 风味。每每想着这些肉眼不及的元素而无法 自己的时候，不妨想想宇宙中的暗黑物质吧， 令人向往却又心生畏惧，颇有异曲同工之妙。 我们所知如此之少，驱使我继续在「看不见」 的世界中探寻无穷的可能。 flavor dna

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS 1/5 nuevo 208 Duecento Otto 22 Ships 798 Unit & Co - JAR 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana A Touch of Spice Adagio Agehan agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung San House, Cityplaza, Devon House, Fashion Walk) agnès b. le pain grillé Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Akita Al Bistro Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar - TST Al Dente (Great Eagle Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, SoHo) Al Molo Ristorante Italiano All Night Long Al's Diner Amante Amber Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill Amina Italian and Oyster Restaurant AMMO Amore Italian Restaurant ANA Oyster & Grill Angel's Share Another Fine Day An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria Antipasto Antique Patisserie Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Applegreen CWB Applegreen TST Ayuthaiya Caffe Greco La Marmite Arima Teppanyaki Aropa Azure Baby Blue Cafe & Bar Bacar Bahama Mama's Caribbean Bar Banker Whisky and Wine Bar Barg Barista Jam Bella Vita Bellaria Berliner German Bar and Restaurant Bicho Biergarten Big Tree Pub Bistecca Italian Steak House Bistro Bamboo Bistrot Le Fauchon Bit Point Black stump Australian Grill & bar Bloom BLT Burger BLT Steak Blue Lemon café & wine bar Bo Innovation Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar Bo-Lo'gne Bombay Dreams Bonheur

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Bouchon Bistro Francais Bourbon Brasserie Le Fauchon Brat Bricklane Brivo Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant Brunch Club Bulldog's Bar & Grill Cafe by the Park Cafe Deco Cafe Elite Cafe Eos Club Cafe Gray Deluxe Café Iguana Café Locomotive Café Loisl Café Muse Cafe O Café on the 1st Cafe Rivoli Cafe TOO Cafe Zambra Cammino Caprice Carousel Fine Cake & Pastries Carpaccio Casa Fina Casa Lisboa Portuguese Restaurant & Bar Casablanca Oyster Steak Restaurant Cecconi's Italian Census Lounge Cepage C'est la B Chesa Chez Moi Chez Patrick Deli Chez Shibata Chikayaki Chilli Fagara Chocolate Chum Chum Mi CIN CIN Ristorante Circle Oyster Classified Mozzarella Bar Classified The Cheese Room Club Chow Club de Flavor Club Havana coast Cocky Bar Cova Café - Admiralty Cova Café - Lee Gardens Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria Cova Ristorante & Caffe Coyote Bar & Grill Craftsteak Cuisine Cuisine - IFC Cutty Sark Da Ping Huo Daddyos Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill Dap Modern European Restaurant Delaney's Wanchai Délifrance Devil's Advocate Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Domani Ristorante Double Happiness Café Duetto Dynasty - Wanchai Eat Right edo & bibo Oyster & Steak House EL CID Spanish Restaurant

El Pomposo Estudio F.A.B French - American Bistro Fandango Spanish Restaurant Fat Angelo's Felix FINDS Fish Bar & Grill Flame at Towngas Avenue Fleur de Sel Flute Bar Flutes Champagne and Cocktail Bar Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai Forum Restaurant Fresh Café & Bar Frites Belgium on Tap Fu Ho Restaurant - TST Fuel Espresso Full/half Gaddi's Gaia Ristorante Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gemini glo restaurant + lounge Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Gokayama Gold By Harlan Goldstein Grand Central Bar & Grill Grappa's Ristorante Grecoπ Green Grill Cafe Handle Bar Harbour Restaurant Hard Rock Café Harlan's Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar Hoi King Heen Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk Restaurant Holly Brown Hong Kong University Alumni Association Hooray Bar & Restaurant HOUSE il meglio Ristorante di Venezla Il Moro iL Posto 97 Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - Causeway Bay Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - TST Island Tang Isola Italian No.5 Iwanami Jaa Kitchen Japas Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Jimmy's Kitchen Joe Bananas Joe's Billiards & Bar Joia Kaiko Teppanyaki Katte Shabushabu King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, Wanchai) Kitchen 65 Kitchen M Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar Kosyu Kowloon Tang KYOTO JOE L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

La Bodega La Bon Restaurant & Lounge La Bon’s Café la brezza café La Cantoche La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar LA Creperie La Cucina Italiana La Maison La Pampa La Parole La Serene Caffè La TASCA La Terrasse l'altro Lattitude 22⁰ LaVilla TST Lawry's the Prime Rib Le Café Le Gouter Bernardaud (ICC, IFC) Le Marron Le Mieux Bistro Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant Galerie) Le Salon Restaurant et Croissanterie Le Souk Lei Garden - IFC Life Lil' Siam Limehouse Linguini Fini Lobby Lounge Louis' Steak House Lung King Heen LUPA LUX Bistro & Bar Magnolia Mangrove Bar & Restaurant Marlin Mask of Si Chuen McSorley's Ale House Merhaba Mes Amis Metropolitan Café Ming Court Mini Dans la Ville Mirror MiSet Restaurant Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining Moon Thai Mr. Steak Grill Ms B's Cakery Munch Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Nahm Vietnamese & Thai Nan Tei Nepal Nicholini's Nico's Oceanna Okaki Ole Spanish Restaurant Oliver's Super Sandwiches (Cheong Kong Centre, Hong Kong Station) Oliver's Super Sandwiches Melbourne Plaza One-Thirtyone Only Buonasera Oolaa Oolaa petite Orange Tree Restaurant Otto Restaurant & Bar OWL Our Wonderland Oysters Bar & Restaurant Papa Razzi Papi Pastis Bistro Francais Peace Square

Peak Café Bar Pearl on the Peak Peking Garden Restaurant Pepino Italian Restaurant Petrus Pier 7 Cafe & Bar Pierre PizzaExpress, Central PizzaExpress, Wanchai Pizzazaza Podium Cafe Portobello Posto Pubblico PRIME steakhouse Red Bar & Restaurant Red Rock Bar & Grill Rei Restoration Rex Caffe Roka Rouge Royal Feast Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen Ruth's Chris Steak House Sabatini Ristorante Italiano Sabor Spanish Touch Private Kitchen Sahara Mezz Bar Sakaegawa Japanese Resaturant Sake Bar GINN Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar Scirocco Serenade Sevva Shanghai Fraternity Association Shanghai Jade Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo Shore Steak Shui Hu Ju Simplylife Bakery Cafe Simplylife Bread & Wine SML Social House Socialito SoHo Spice Vietnamese & Thai Solas Sole mlo Sorriso Italian Cuisine Spasso Italian bar SPICE Spicy Fingers Spoil Cafe Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon St.George Star Restaurant Starz Wine Bar Staunton's Wine Bar & Café Steik World Meats Stone's Stormies Studio City Studio Nineteen Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar Summer Palace Sunning Restaurant Sushi Hiro Sushi Imamura Sushi Kuu Sushi Shin T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar Tai Ping Koon Restaurant Tandoor T'ang Court Taste Tate Dining Room & Bar Teppanyaki Kaika Tequila Jack's Thai Orchids Café & Bar KLN Bay

Thai Orchids Café & Bar Mongkok The Box The Dutch Cheese and More The Fifties The Flying Pan The French Window The Globe The Great Indian Kebab Factory The Junk Pub The Lobby The Lotus The Parlour The Pawn The Peak Lookout The Press Room The Principal The Quarterdeck Club The Quarterdeck Hong Kong The Queen Victoria The Salted Pig The Square The Steak Kitchen Bar & Restaurant The Swiss Chalet The Wheel Tiffin Tim's Kitchen Tivo Tivoli Italian Restaurant Tonno Bar / Tonno Kitchen Trattoria Doppio Zero Tutto Bene Twyst Uno Duo Trio - Lana's Italian Home Cooking Up Va Bene Van Gogh Kitchen Via 28 Ristorante View 62 by Paco Roncero Vivo W28 Steak House Wabi Sabi Japanese Restaurant Wagyu Kaiseki Den Wagyu Lounge Wanya Japanese Restaurant Watson's Wine SoHo Weinstube Westwood Carvery Wildfire Wildfire pizzabar & Grill Wing's Kitchen Wooloomooloo Prime Wooloomooloo Steakhouse Wyndham the 4th Xi Yan Sweets Yan Toh Heen Yat Tung Heen - Wanchai Yi Pai Ya Yorkshire Pudding Yu Joy Chinese Restaurant Zelo Spanish Restaurant & Tapas Bar Zen Zentro Bar & Eatery ZOO Zummer 四合軒

CLUBHOUSES United Services Recreation Club Pacific club HK Bartender's & Sommelier's Association Aberdeen Marina Club American Club - Hong Kong Country Club American Club - Town Club

TK" WHERE TO FIND TK 《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

Asia Golf Club Caldecott Hill Chinese Recreation Club Continental Club Craigengower Cricket Club Discovery Bay Recreation Club Fairview Park Country Club Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Gold Coast Resident's Club House Gold Coast Yacht and Country Club Harbour Front Club House Hebe Haven Yacht Club Hong Kong Country Club Hong Kong Cricket Club Hong Lok Yuen Country Club Kerry Property Management services Ltd (15 Homantin Hill, Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, November Tower I & II, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, Valverde) Kowloon Tong Club Macau Jockey Club Marina Club Discovery Bay Marina Cove Club Mariners' Club (The Narubers Club) Mission Hills Golf Club Orient Express No. 8 Club Bel Air Pacific Club Palais Monaco Premier Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Shek O Golf Country Club The Beverly Hills (Resident's Clubhouse) The China Club The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, HK The Cullinan The Ellipsis The Foreign Correspondents' Club Hong Kong The Hong Kong Golf Club Deep Water Bay The Kowloon Club The Kowloon Cricket Club The Novemberfair The Palazzo Derby Three Bays Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse

WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. Concord Fine Wines Limited Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited Delish Hong Kong Wine Vault Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited - Admiralty, Wanchai, TST, Kwai Chung Limitless Holdings Limited Monsieur Chatté, Sheung Wan Monsieur Chatté, Elements Pan-Handler Portrait Winemakers & distillers Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Queensway Wine

Sino Vantage Asia Limited Valentino Chocolatier - Sai Kung Valentino Chocolatier Wanchai

HOTELS City Garden Hotel Conrad International Hong Kong Cosmopolitan Hotel Courtyard By Marriott Hong Kong Crowne Plaza HK CWB Hotel Eaton Hotel Hong Kong Eaton House Excelsior Hotel Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Harbour Grand Hong Kong Harbour Grand Kowloon Harbour Plaza North Point Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel Hong Kong Marriott Hotel Hotel Icon Hotel Jen Hotel LKF by Rhombus Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui InterContinental Grand Standford InterContinental Hong Kong Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong Kowloon Shangri-La Lan Kwai Fong Hotel Langham Place, Mongkok, HK Lanson Place Hotel Le Meridien Cyberport L'hotel Island South Luk Kwok Hotel Mandarin Oriental Peninsula Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Regal Hong Kong Hotel Regal Hotels International Regal Kowloon Hotel Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Hong Kong Rosedale on the Park HK Royal Garden Hotel Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers Royal Plaza Hotel Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers SkyCity Marriott Hotel The Kowloon Hotel The Landmark Mandarin Oriental The Luxe Manor The Park Lane Hong Kong The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong

AIRLINE LOUNGES CNAC Lounge Dynasty Lounge Emirate Lounge Emirates Airlines-BKK Lounge Hong Kong Lounge Morning Calm ( Korean Air) Red Carpet Lounge (UA) Royal Orchid Lounge SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) The Traveller's Lounge EAST The Traveller's Lounge WEST

Virgin Clubhouse Hong Kong Jet Jet Aviation Buisness Jets Metrojet Limited BAA - Business Aviation Asia Ltd

VANGO Wanchai North Point Ho Man Tin Kwun Tong Lok Fu Shatin Tin Shui Wai Kwai Chung Chai Wan Kwun Tong TST Saigon Tuen Mun Happy Vally Lok Fu Tai Kok Tsui Tin Shui Wai Yuen Long Tai Po

BOOKSHOPS Mandarin Oriental Kiosk Bookazine (Discover Bay, Canton House, Ifc Mall, Harbor City, Kowloon, Prince Building, Central, Shui On) Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, Lyndhurst Terrace, Harbor City, Kowloon, Bonham Road, Repulse Bay, Hopewell Centre, Citygate) Beachside Books Hits Media Center Kubrick Bookstore & Cafe Metrobook (Elements, Kowloon, Mikki, Langham Place) Nobletimes Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Wong Tai Sin) Swindon Book Co. Ltd. Cham Kee Tung Son Yung Kee Great Food Park N' Shop (Baguia Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean Coast, Citygate, Clearwater, Cyberport, East Point City, Forview Heights, Festival Walk, Happy Valley, Hong Lok Yuen, Horizon Suite Hotel, Jardine Lookout, Kennedy Town, Metroplaza, Metropolis, New Hopewell Centre, Peak Road, Shouson Hill, South Horizons, Stanley Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau Temple)

MACAU HOTELS Altira Macau Crown Tower Galaxy Macau Galaxy Macau - Banyan Tree Macau

Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura Grand Hyatt Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Hard Rock Hotel Hotel Lisboa Hotel San Tiago Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Sands Cotai Central Sofitel Macau StarWorld Hotel Wynn Macau

RESTAURANTS 11 Cafe 360° Café A Lorcha A Petisqueira ABA Bar Albergue 1601 Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Bar Azul Bar Florian Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Cabana Café Bela Vista Café Deco Café Lan Café Litoral Café of 4 Cafe Ou Mun Café Panorama Café Siam Camoes Restaurant Cascades China Rouge City Café Clube Militar de Macau Conrad the Lounge Copa Steakhouse Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Cuppacoffee Bakery and Coffeeshop Don Quijote Dynasty 8 EDO Japanese @ One Central Edo Japanese Restaurant Edo Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant COD Edo Restautant Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Ginza Kaiten Sushi Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Grand Imperial Court Henri's Gallery Hero Chinese Restaurant Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge Illy Coffee Imperial Court Inagiku Indian Garden Restaurant Irish Bar Jade Dragon Jade Garden Jin Yue Xuan Kam Lai Heen King of Kings

Kira Kwun Hoi Heen L'Arc Coffee Shop L'Arc Lounge L'Arc The Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Keure French Cuisine La Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa Café La Paloma Lan Laurel Laurel Lax Café Le Cesar Lei Garden Lemongrass Macau Thai Café Litoral Restaurant Lord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macallan Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ Café MO Lobby Lounge + Cake Shop Modern Thai Morton's Steakhouse Mugs Talk Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Nagomi O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Shanghai Old Taipa Tavern Osgatos Pacific Coffee Pacific Coffee COD Pacific Coffee Galaxy Pacific Coffee SCC Pak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge Pearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria Toscana Prive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurante Fernando Rossio Royal Orchid Saffron Sakazuki Savory Crab Shanghainese 456 Singing Bean Sky 21 Spice Garden Square 8 Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP lounge Talay Thai Restaurant Tang's Cuisine Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room by Galliot Treasure Palace Tsui Wah

Varanda Vasco Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Bar Vida Rica Restaurant Wave Westin The Lounge Windows Restaurant Windsor Lounge Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

CLUBHOUSES Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Pacific Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKING Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

GOURMET SHOP & WINE SHOP Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd.

Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Pacific Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

SPAS Grand Lapa Spa Six Senses Spa MO The Spa Royal Thai Spa Malo Clinic Spa Four Seasons Spa Bodhi Spa Altira Spa Banyan Tree Spa Rock Spa Isala Spa Crown the Spa

TRANSIT Air Macau Jet Asia Macau Jet Burgeon Rent a car Avis Turbojet Xunlong

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE ABA Bar MGM Grand Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路 澳门美高梅酒店 q +853 8802 2319 Tue to Sun: 7:00–2:00

Bombay Dreams Indian 4/F, 77 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街77号嘉兆商业大 厦4楼 q +852 2971 0001 Mon to Sun. 12:00 – 15:00 16:00 – 11:00 5

Café Bela Vista 荟景阁 International 2/F Grand Lapa, 956-1110 Avenida Da Amizade, Macau 澳门友谊大马路956-1110号金丽 华酒店2楼 q +853 8793 3871 06:30 – 22:00 Daily Mon to Thu , 15:00 – 18:00 closed

Pacific Place Level 3, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway,Hong Kong 香港岛金钟道88号太古广场3楼 q +852 2918 9660 Harbour City Shop G315, G/F., Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀广东道17号海港城港 威商场地下G315号铺 q +852 2907 3882 Festival Walk Shop LG1-10 & 11, Festival Walk, 80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon Tong, Hong Kong 香港九龙塘达之路80号又一城LG1 层11号铺 q +852 2265 8688

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Cascades 水帘 Bars and Lounges Shop G03&G05, Galaxy Macau, Estr. Da Baia De Ns. Da Esperanca, COTAI , Coloane-Taipa 澳门路氹望德圣母湾大马路澳门 银河酒店地下G03&G05号铺 q +853 8883 2221 5

Chachawan Thai 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷里活道206号 q +852 2549 0020 Tue to Sun, 12:00–15:00, 18:30–00:00 5

Chôm Chôm Vietnamese G/F Block A, No. 58-60 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环58-60号卑利街地下16A 伊利近街交界 q +852 2810 0850 Mon to Fri : open from 18:00 Sat, Sun & PH : from 16:00 5

COVA Caffè – Ristorante Lee Gardens Shop 101-3, 1/F., Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾希慎道33号利园商场 一期1楼101-103号铺 q +852 2907 3399

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Eyebar 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀弥敦道63号iSQUARE国 际广场国际广场30楼3001号铺 q +852 2487 3988 Sun-Thurs: 19:30-09:00 Fri & Sat: 19:30-10:00

Gosto 葡轩 Portuguese G21, G/F, East Promenade, Galaxy Macau™, COTAI, Macau ™」综合 澳门路氹城「 渡假城购物大道东地下G21号铺 q +853 8883 2221 Mon to Fri, 12:00 – 15:00 6:00pm –11:00pm Sat, Sun & PH, 12:00 – 23:00 5

He Jiang 合江小镇 Sichuan 1/F, Cosmopolitan Hotel Hong Kong, 387-397 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔皇后大道东387-397号丽 都酒店1楼 q +852 3167 7833 Daily, 18:30–10:30, 12:00 -23:00 5

The Kitchen 大厨 Steak House 3/F Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau 澳门葡京路新葡京酒店3楼 q +853 8803 7777 Mon to Sun: 12:00–14:30, 18:30–22:30 5

Private Dining Rooms 37F, Grand Club Tower, Grand Hyatt Macau at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

SPONSORED 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地澳门 君悦酒店嘉宾轩楼三十七楼 q +853 8868 1234 Private dining room I & III: minimum charge $15,000 plus 10% service charge; Private dining room II: minimum charge $12,000 plus 10% service charge Menu price from $1,500 +10% service charge per person 贵宾房壹&叁 I & III: 最低收费为澳 门币15,000，另加收10％服务费. 贵宾房贰: 最低收费为澳门币 12,000，另加收10％的服务费. 菜单价格每位为澳门币1,500起， 另加收10％服务费

Saffron 尚坊 Thai G/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门悦 榕庄地下G40 q +853 8883 6061 Mon to Sun: 12:00–15:00, 18:00–23:00 5

The Tasting Room 御膳房 European 3/F Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada Do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天 地皇冠酒店3楼 q +853 8868 6681 Mon to Sun: 12:00–15:00, 18:00–23:00 5

HOTEL OKURA MACAU 澳门大仓酒店 Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau 澳門大倉酒店 「 ™」 綜合渡假城 澳門路氹城 www.hotelokuramacau.com

The Crystal Piano 水晶钢琴 5 Bar & Lounge

28/F q +853 8883 5109 18:00–02:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and up A Smart Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒 5 Sake Bar

2/F q +853 8883 5125 16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun MOP 60 and up A Smart Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Terrazza 庭园意大利餐厅 Italian 201, 2/F Galaxy Hotel, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperenca, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹望德圣母湾大马路澳门 银河酒店2楼201号铺 q +853 8883 2221 5

Varq Indian 1 Mansingh Road, The Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi 110001, India q +91-11-2302-6162 Mon to Sun: 12:30 – 14:30, 19:00 – 23:30 5

Yamazato 山里裡 5 Japanese/Kaiseki

2/F q +853 8883 5127 12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun MOP 300 and up A Casual Chic H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Yamazato 山里 Japanese/Kaiseki Shop 200, 2/F Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau™, COTAI, Coloane-Taipa, Macau ™」综合 澳门路氹城「 渡假城澳门大仓酒店2楼200号铺 q +853 8883 5127 Tue to Sun: 12:00 – 22:30 5

Terrace Restaurant 和庭餐厅 廳 5 International

2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126 07:00–24:00 MOP 100 and up A Resort Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com

NEW YEAR’S EVE COUNTDOWN PARTY 狂歡除夕倒數派對 31/12/2013 @ 1/F GARDEN MARQUEE & LAWN 花園天幕 / 天幕草坪 COME AND JOIN THE PARTY AT THE WESTIN RESORT MACAU AS WE SAY FAREWELL TO 2013 AND WELCOME IN THE NEW YEAR 2014. 來參與澳門威斯汀度假酒店的跨年倒數派對，以最熾熱的氣氛迎接新一年!

10PM TILL 4AM

晚上 10 時至凌晨 4 時

PARTYLICIOUS PACK 狂歡套票 ENTRANCE & FREE FLOW OF WINES, BEERS, COCKTAILS, WHISKEY, VODKA, CHILLED JUICES, SOFTDRINKS, SNACK BUFFET & 1 GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE

當晚入場包無限量享用紅酒、白酒、啤酒、雞尾酒、威士忌、伏特加、果汁、汽水、小食自助餐及香檳一杯

EARLY-BIRD PURCHASE BEFORE 25/12

PURCHASE DURING 25 - 31/12

$488 per person

$688 per person

12 月 25 日前預購 /每位

12 月 25 至 31 日預購 /每位

members of CLUB WESTIN, EDM & ILCM has the previlige to use the early bird price of $488 until Dec 31, 2013.

威斯汀康體部、EDM 及 ILCM 會員可由即日起至 12 月 31 日，以優惠價 $488 購買 ”狂歡套票”

GUEST DJ’S ROCKIN’ THE SHOW:

CASUAL PACK 即玩套票

鑽石 DJ 陣容:

PURCHASE on 31/12 12 月 31 日購買

ENTRANCE & 1 GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE 當晚入場 (包香檳一杯)

$288

• • • • •

DJ DEVLAR JORGE VALE SLIM BUDDAH JIMBROWSKI DJ VJ

per person/每位

COMPLIMENTARY PARTY SHUTTLE AVAILABLE (FIXED SCHEDULE APPLIES)

免費派對穿梭巴士接送 (適用於固定班數)

COMPLIMENTARY ‘CASUAL PACK’ WILL BE GIVEN TO ALL DINING GUESTS WHO ORDERED FROM THE FESTIVE DINNER MENUS (one pack per guest)

每位除夕夜用餐客人均可獲贈“即玩套票”一份

FOR ENQUIRIES OR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 853.8899.1020 OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WESTIN.COM/MACAU 如欲查詢或預購，請致電 853.8899.1020 或登入 WESTIN.COM/MACAU

All prices are in MOP nett 以上價目為澳門幣凈價 Activities schedule and venue are subject to change without prior notice 活動如有更改，恕不另行通知

EVENT ORGANIZER 主辦單位 :

SPONSORED BY 贊助單位:

SUBSCRIBE 25% off

$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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Mail Tasting Kitchen Attention: Terrie Lam 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Please make checks payable to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.” Tel +852 2642 0008

dessert

Dangerously delicious and fragrant, this Mumbaitini was mixed at Varq Restaurant at The Taj Mahal Hotel in New Delhi, India. Fierce vodka is made fresh and light with lime, ginger and pounded curry leaves. Innocent enough to serve as an apéritif, assertive enough to accompany a meal, and lightly sweet enough to linger over after dinner, it’s a perfect cocktail of spirits and spices. 新德里泰姬玛哈酒店「Varq」印度餐厅推出孟买马丁尼，清冽香醇，神秘诱人。以强烈的伏特 加为基底，加上清爽新鲜的莱姆、姜与捣碎的咖喱叶，既是纯真清新的开胃酒，也是浓郁馨香 的佐餐酒，微甜的口感更是餐后小酌的最佳选择。孟买马丁尼是烈酒与香料的完美组合。

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TK | flavor dna

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