TK15 Ode to Italy

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 15

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PADUA Multisensory

Conception 多重感官飨宴 SAN BONIFACIO Pizza, Perfected 完美披萨进化论 HONG KONG A Taste of Winter 美味冬尝

starter

这道佳肴由米兰 Aimo e Nadia 意大利餐厅设计，重头戏就是藏于Sanremo邻近海域300公尺深海的 紫虾，属于地中海红虾种类。让客人体验到紫虾的鲜甜、细致及柔嫩口感，故先把混合蔬菜及柑橘打 成的果菜汁静置数分钟，再搭配数种反差效果明显的食材：包括西西里Bronte地区产纯开心果油製成 的美乃滋、带苦甜滋味的酥脆芝麻棒、虾头打成的酱汁和让人想起干果味道的烤鹰嘴豆面粉。

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DAVID HARTUNG

This dish from Aimo e Nadia in Milan is designed around an extraordinary ingredient, the purple shrimp from Sanremo, a variety of Mediterranean red shrimp that can only be caught at a depth of more than 300 meters in the area near Sanremo. It is marinated for a few minutes in a vegetable and citrus juice and accompanied by several ingredients that work by contrast: a mayonnaise made with pure pistachio oil from Bronte in Sicily, a crunchy sesame bar that gives a bittersweet note, the juice made from the shrimp heads, and toasted chickpea flour that is reminiscent of the taste of dried fruit.

Josef Hoffmann, Fauteuil Fledermaus

TasTe Culture

�Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

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T A S T I N G O D E

15

K I T C H E N T O

I T A L Y

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 1001, Apec Plaza, 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

John Foy

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Deborah Grossman

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Annabel Jackson

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Lucy Morgan

Marilyn Burkley Natalia Cortes-Chaffin

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Jessie Tirsch

IMAGE EDITOR

Vicki Williams

TRANSLATION SERVICES

Jane Wong

Adele Wong

Babel Communications

ACCOUNTANT

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

EDITORS

Icy Ip CHINESE EDITOR

Terrie Lam

Victoria Lei

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

PRINTING Asia One Printing 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION One Logistics +852 5110 3084

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

15 Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

T A S T I N G 15

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O D E T O I T A LY

「Osteria Francescana」餐厅主厨及创办人Massimo Bottura对追求完美 式的烹饪嗤之以鼻。只见图片中他把经典重现的柠檬馅饼砸碎并随意放 置，另覆上丰富的牛油皮、柠檬香草冰淇淋，最后在顶部浇上的混合着 柠檬酒的zabaglione。主厨的相关采访请翻阅至本刊第19页。 PADUA

Multisensory Conception 多重感官飨宴 Pizza, Perfected 完美披萨进化论 A Taste of Winter 美味冬尝

SAN BONIFACIO 2015

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Chef Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana satirizes the quest for culinary perfection in Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart, a deconstructed classic served upside down and smashed to bits. Our interview with Chef Bottura begins on page 19.

HONG KONG

TK | ode to italy

Photography by David Hartung

©Tasting Kitchen 2015 All rights reserved

publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Ode to Italy, TK pays tribute to one of the world’s great cuisines, exploring its ancient traditions and modern innovations while savoring its manifold pleasures.

We first travel to Modena, the creative heart of chef Massimo Bottura whose restaurant Osteria Francescana is ranked number three in the world. Our next stop is Le Calandre in Ruban, the flavor laboratory of Massimiliano Alajmo, who at twenty eight became the youngest chef to win three Michelin stars.

A quest for Italy’s finest flour leads us on a trek across the Italian countryside to the town of San Bonifacio, where an artisan uses the flour to create pizzas of exceptional flavor and originality.

In Tuscany, we visit the historic Poggio alle Mura castle on the Banfi estate and talk with the winemaker there about his noblest cru. Further south, in the heel of Italy’s boot, we sample a range of compelling new wines from the region of Puglia.

Back in Hong Kong, we find out from a veteran restaurateur how to create an Italian classic that endures in a fickle market, visit a venerable venue renewed by the enthusiasm of youth, and spend a languid afternoon warmed by the rich colors and flavors of Italy’s most appealing winter produce.

We couldn’t have put this special issue together without generous support from so many, including Paola Guida of the Italian Trade Commission; Monica Malavasi, Gioia Morena Gatti, and the entire team at the Instituto Valorizzazione Samuli Italiani; and Mary Covatta of Covatta Communications, who throughout our culinary tour of Italy was a fearless guide, tireless translator, and loyal friend.

Buon appetito.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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contents

2 STARTER 8 Six-Pillar Portraits • 10 Master of Murano • 14 Poster Boy • 18 Humility, Hard Work, and Dreams • 24 Tradition, Innovation, Collaboration 28 Multisensory Conception • 32 Pizza, Perfected • 42 Salumi Simplified • 48 Three Star Salumi • 52 Eat, Drink, and … Buy Italian 54 Staying Power • 60 Dreams In the Making • 64 Center Stage • 70 A Taste of Winter • 84 Buried Treasure

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contents

88 Puglia Wine Country • 96 Home Plate • 98 Let Us Eat Cake • 102 Light in the Darkness • 106 Touring New Tastes 108 Feasting on Tradition • 110 A New Era for Dynasty • 112 Some Like It Hot • 116 A Toast to Portugal’s Best 122 The Ballad of Brunello • 128 A Place in the Sun • 132 Elegant Rituals • 140 Wining, Dining, Valentining • 142 Growing Global 139 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 144 D E S S E R T

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presented by the macallan

六大支柱隽影

six-pillar portraits Observe the treasured traditions of one of the world’s great whiskies through the lens of a modern master of visual style.

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来 自 苏 格 兰 的 珍 贵 单 一 麦 芽 威 士 忌 品 牌 麦 卡 伦 ( The

Macallan )，在寻觅掌镜第五代「Masters Of Photography 摄影大师系列」的专家时，当代时尚摄影家 Mario Testino 的 名 字 便 从 众 多 人 选 中 脱 颖 而 出。 过 去 数 十 年 来，Mario

Testino 的作品深受推崇，获奖无数，经常刊登在平面媒体， 作品更展示于世界各地的画廊。此次麦卡伦寻找能精准诠释 「六大支柱」 （Six Pillars）系列酒款独特风格的大师，Mario

Testino 实为一时之选。 「小 此次合作双方其实也彼此钦慕，Mario Testino 说 ： 时候，在我的家乡秘鲁，威士忌是秘鲁人最锺情的酒，麦 卡伦来找我时，当下我就打定主意，要捕捉众人聚会庆祝 的画面。 」拍摄地点靠近中国紫禁城，每幅影像中有六个独 特的代表人物，分别象徵「六大支柱」精粹醇品系列背后 所代表的酿酒哲学 ：The Macallan 精神家园（The Spiritual

Home）、 最 小 巧 铜 管 蒸 馏 仪（The Curiously Small Stills）、 、 优 质 橡 木 酒 桶（The 最 少 切 割 部 份（The Finest Cut）

Exceptional Oak Casks）、自然色泽（The Natural Color）、无 。 与伦比的美酒（The Peerless Spirit） 酿酒大师从近二十万桶单一麦芽威士忌中精挑细选 出 六 桶， 打 造 限 量 版「The Macallan 摄 影 大 师 ：Mario

Testino 系列」，Mario Testino 也参与该酒款的水晶瓶身设 计，盒内除了一瓶威士忌，还有 Mario Testino 摄影作品， 以及来自六个木桶的迷你样品酒。本系列酒标上皆有独特 编号，且全球限量 1,000 瓶，必定成为麦卡伦收藏行家争相 竞逐的酒款。

COURTESY OF MACALLAN

WHEN THE PRINCIPALS behind The Macallan, Scotland’s fabled single-malt whisky, sought someone to capture the liquor’s essence for the fifth edition of their Masters of Photography Series, one name floated high above the possible candidates: Mario Testino.

For decades, Testino’s photography has been notably acclaimed, awarded, published, and displayed on gallery walls around the world.

Selecting him to convey the malt’s signature Six Pillars seemed the most obvious of decisions.

For Testino, the feeling of appreciation was mutual: “Whisky was the drink of choice in my country during the years I was growing up,” says Testino. “When I was approached by The Macallan, I decided my series would capture the moment when people gather to celebrate.” His shoot, which represented the quintessential party, was set near the Forbidden City and featured six intriguing human subjects cast to symbolize one of The Macallan’s Six Pillars or guiding principles: The Spiritual Home, The Curiously Small Stills, The Finest Cut, The Exceptional Oak Casks, The Natural Color, and The Peerless Spirit.

The Macallan selected six out of its 200,000 maturing casks to create a signature whisky for The Masters of Photography: Mario Testino Edition. Testino collaborated on the lacquered box’s design, and encased within are the whisky, Testino’s photographs and miniature samples from each of the six casks. For Macallan aficionados and collectors, competition will be fierce: the edition is numbered and limited to 1,000 worldwide.

inspired living

Good Mood Red Bar Leo De Carlo usd23,000

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玻璃大师

master of murano Glassmaking has been perfected over centuries on tiny islands in the Venetian Lagoon.

A modern virtuoso explains to Jessie Tirsch how he is taking the art form into the future.

IGOR BALBI grew up on Murano, seven little islands a mile north of Venice, in a family of glassmakers. They were skilled in “lampworking,” an ancient technique of using the flame of a lamp or torch, rather than a furnace, to melt the glass. His father, Italo, was a noted master of lampworking and shaping, and as a boy Igor learned to work with the flame while visiting his father’s studio. Over time, his father and uncle imparted to him the many secrets of their art, inherited from ages past.

Igor took what he learned and has fashioned a contemporary and highly personal style that is recognizable for its meticulous workmanship, innovative techniques, dreamlike themes, and spectacular fusion of color.

You became a glassmaker when you were just nineteen. How did you come to that decision so early?

It’s often the case that boys at the age of nineteen don’t know what they want to do with their lives. I was lucky enough to have a father who worked with Murano glass and who guided me towards this wonderful adventure that is glassmaking.

Igor Balbi 出 生 于 威 尼 斯 北 方 七 小 岛 之 一， 距水都仅有一哩之遥。 Murano 岛的玻璃世家， 岛上的达人都身怀玻璃吹制的古老绝技－以 高温燃灯或喷把，而非熔炉来融化玻璃塑形。 他的父亲 Italo 为着名的吹制及塑形大师，小 Igor 把父亲工作室当成游乐场，说是边学着 控制燃灯边长大并不为过。祖先传下来的技 艺及秘诀，由父亲及叔父传给下一代。经年 累月下来，Igor 已将一身绝活融会贯通，创 造出属于个人的现代风格。作品俨然成为精 雕细琢作工、创新技术、梦幻主题及绚丽色 彩交融的代名词。 年纪轻轻， 您年仅 19 岁便踏上玻璃工匠之路， 怎麽知道那是一生的志业？ 确实，19 岁的大男孩很多都还在摸索， 不知道未来要做什麽。我算很幸运，有个以 製作 Murano 玻璃为生的父亲，引领我展开 这场美妙冒险，进入玻璃吹製的世界。

What is it about the art that you find so engaging?

The most fascinating aspect of glass is the infinite number of variables that come into play when working with it. That makes for an endless challenge, not only in exploring the material, but also in expanding my vision as an artist.

如此投入玻璃艺术的原因为何？

You are well known for crafting goblets that are graceful, but also daring. Why is the goblet form so appealing to you?

Because it’s always a challenge – the goblet is one of the most representative pieces in the traditional glassmaking of Murano. That’s why it was chosen as a “weapon” among glass masters in their artistic “duels,” where they would show off their skills.

您製作的酒杯优雅大度，同时挹注大胆创新

吹制玻璃同时，可以玩出无限可能性， 正是最让我倾心的地方，代表着无穷的挑战， 不仅可以探索材质的多元用途，也能不断拓 展身为艺术家的眼界。

的元素。为何对酒杯情有独锺？ 因为永远不乏挑战－酒杯可说是

Murano 传统玻璃产业最具代表性的产品之 一，也因此不难想像为何玻璃大师之间的顶 尖对战，常以酒杯为武器一决高下，展现自 己高超的技巧。

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inspired living

Your work, of course, encompasses more than goblets. Your sculptures are in great demand as well. Are you working on something special right now?

As with my goblets, my sculptures – although I do not make many – have found their way into private collections around the world, and I have to admit I find that gratifying. Lately, I’m deeply involved in creating rather complex sculptures that represent the puzzling relationships that exist between mind and body.

您的拿手绝活当然不只酒杯，玻璃雕塑也 常供不应求。现在手头上有什麽特别的计 画吗？ 我的酒杯及雕塑作品，虽然为数不 多，却受到私人藏家青睐，在世界各地找 到归属，老实说真的带给我很大的成就感。 最近我全力投入造型繁复的雕塑创作，想 以玻璃传达身心灵之间盘根错节的神秘关 係。

I was fascinated by one sculpture called Coral Woman, where the figure of a woman seems imprisoned in a spiky maze. Is it intended as a statement of some kind?

Yes, definitely. In fact, in the sculpture you can see that the woman is trapped in an intricate network of coral branches – they represent the thoughts, anxieties, and complexities that a woman’s mind must deal with in our age.

您的雕塑作品「珊瑚女人 (Coral Woman)」 让我深深着迷，女性形体禁锢于尖刺迷宫 的意象有什麽特别含意吗？ 没错，细看这个作品可以发现女性困 在珊瑚交织而成的複杂藩篱中，代表女性 在现代生活中时常涌现的细腻思绪，及所 需面临的焦虑及复杂情感。

I understand that incamiciato is a glassmaking technique that employs overlapping thin layers. But you have developed your own secret method known as Incalmo Balbi for producing a range of colors in the glass depending on how the light strikes it.

Can you tell us how that came about?

There isn’t a classic lampwork technique for blowing glass, so I invented new methods for creating the colors and tactile effects of classic Murano techniques, with glass that’s been produced in the furnace.

How have things changed much since you began your career 20 years ago, and how do you see the art evolving?

The evolution, as in many other fields, has been very rapid, thanks to new technologies and also to a less strictly academic approach. Since I not only make glass, but also teach the art of glassmaking, I hope to convey to my students in the very best way I can both my passion and my deep personal understanding of Murano glass – the two fundamental elements of my life as an artist.

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据我所知， 「incamiciato」指的是玻璃的 层製技术，但您进一步改良，创造出所谓 「Incalmo Balbi」技法，调整火光触击的 角度製作各式套色，有什麽特别的来由？ 所谓吹制玻璃其实没什麽经典口吹技 法，所以等同是在别无选择下 , 经常开创 新法，做出想要的色泽及触感，能足以比 拟 Murano 传统熔炉製作技法产生的效果。

20 年前开启玻璃师傅生涯至今观察到什麽 变化，玻璃艺术又有何演变？ 玻璃和其他艺术领域没什麽不同，拜 新科技及学院制约弱化所赐，演变速度只 能用「日新月异」来形容。除了吹制玻璃， 我也教书，希望竭尽所能让学生感受到我 的热情，并传达我对 Murano 玻璃个人深 入的理解，而这两者正是支撑我玻璃艺术 家生涯的核心价值。

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Large Square Aquarium

Luxury Goblet

I Lirici Vase

Wave Centerpiece

Romano Donà

Silver & Green

Romano Donà

Romano Donà

usd4,000

Igor Balbi

usd2,140

usd3,700

usd872

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food & art

海报传奇

poster boy Italian Artist Leonetto Cappiello rocked the world of advertising at the turn of the 20th century.

Cappiello quickly sketched a can-can girl kicking up her skirts.

Caricatures were usually done in pen and ink, but now he was being called upon to use color. He came up with a minimalist idea, subtle tints on a solid yellow background, with dabs of red on the pantaloons peeking from beneath the dancer’s petticoats.

His provocative poster made a big splash throughout the city,

意大利有个名为 Leonetto Cappiello 的年轻小伙子， 于 1898 年离开家乡利佛诺，到巴黎拜访他的哥哥。 到了巴黎之后，他深受这座光之城所吸引，纵情于知 识份子圈的人文氛围与自由思想言论中，浸淫于自启 蒙时代以来不断发展的丰富思想内涵。 后来，Leonetto Cappiello 决定要长住巴黎，但 得先解决生计问题。他曾在利佛诺修过艺术课程，一 直梦想要当画家，他的嗜好便是 用铅笔快速勾勒出人物肖像漫 画，常常把周遭围观的群众逗得 乐不可支，在 21 岁那年，他便 挑出几幅最好的作品出版成书， 以赚取生活费。现在到了巴黎，

Leonetto Cappiello 的 哥 哥 建 议 他改画名人的人物肖像漫画，也 许有好几家杂誌愿意出高价买他 的作品。 于是 Leonetto Cappiello 去拜 访两位当时住在巴黎的意大利名 人，分别是演员 Ermete Novelli 与 作 曲 家 Giacomo Puccini， 他 询问两人是否愿意当他的肖像 模 特 儿， 两 人 都 答 应 了， 后 来 作品卖给当时着名的幽默书刊

Le Rire 杂 誌（ 法 文「 笑 声 」 之 意） ， 获 得 热 烈 回 响，Leonetto Cappiello 旋 即 走 红 画 坛， 成 为 最受欢迎的肖像漫画家，巴黎剧场与歌厅名伶都竞相 求画。

Leonetto Cappiello 刚开始以素描画家的身份一 夕成名，但到 1899 年，一位熟识的编辑要发行新 （法文「时髦」之意）， 的幽默杂志「Le Frou-Frou 」 邀请他为杂志创作一幅海报， Leonetto Cappiello 快 速 勾 勒 出 康 康 舞 女 郎 高 踢 蓬 蓬 裙 的 图 案， 与 以 往 用 沾 水 笔 与 墨 水 画 成 的 肖 像 素 描 不 同， 这 次 编 辑 希 望 他 能 创 作 彩 色 画 报， 于 是 他 运 用 极 简 绘 画

Cognac Monnet, 1927, usd6800, France At the peak of the twenties’ roar, an uninhibited flapper cavorts barefoot in a filmy frock à la Vionnet or Patou, pressing bee-stung lips to the rim of an outsize snifter of “sunshine in a glass.”

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WWW.ROSSARTGROUP.COM

IN 1898 A YOUNG MAN LEFT HIS HOME in Livorno, Italy to visit his older brother in Paris. Leonetto Cappiello was instantly seduced by the City of Light, reveling in its love of culture, free discussion of new ideas, and educated ambiance, the culmination of concepts fostered since the “age of enlightenment.”

Deciding to remain in Paris, Cappiello would need a way to support himself. He had begun studying art in Livorno, hoping to become a painter someday. His quick caricature sketches, taken up as a hobby, had delighted his small audience there, and when he was 21 he’d made some money by publishing the best of these in booklet form.

Now, in Paris, his brother suggested that various magazines in the city might pay a good price for caricatures of celebrities.

Leonetto approached two famous fellow Italians who were staying in town, actor Ermete Novelli and composer Giacomo Puccini, and asked if he could sketch them.

They agreed, and the caricatures were readily sold to Le Rire (meaning “laughter”), a popular French humor magazine of the time.

The sketches were so well-received that Cappiello quickly became the darling of the art form and the favorite caricaturist of theater and cabaret stars in Paris.

He might have lived out his life as a successful sketch artist, but in 1899 one of the editors to whom he’d often shown his work asked him to create a poster for a new humor magazine he was about to launch, Le Frou-Frou , or “frills.”

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food & art

and when offers began coming in from other advertisers, Cappiello realized he‘d hit on something original – an audacious statement of an eye-catching figure on a plain flat background.

He began accepting requests for his posters, continuing to develop a style that many found shocking or humorous. And so it was that at the turn of the century the posters of Leonetto Cappiello exploded on the Italian scene.

As the first poster artist to create startling figures standing out against monochromatic backgrounds, quite unlike the typical posters of the day, Cappiello forged a new style that was immediately identifiable. As his technique evolved, his caricature figures disappeared and his posters became more powerful and dramatic.

They seemed even more novel and innovative coming on the heels of the sentimental and “painterly” style used by his predecessors – Chéret, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Mucha – and of such great masters as Steinlen, Grasset, Bonnard, among many others.

These artists had cut their teeth in the poster business after 1878, the year Chéret developed his ingenious three-stone lithographic process that gave artists the freedom to use color and create transparent effects.

Until then, posters advertising businesses and products were simply crude metal engravings or woodblock prints, unsophisticated designs devoid of color, more like dreary afterthoughts than compelling images for the products they were meant to promote.

But within twenty years of the advent of the new lithographic process the streets of Paris, Milan, Berlin, and the cities of America came alive with a proliferation of colorful images that brought gaiety and light to drab buildings and shops. These posters advertised everything from bicycles to chocolate and biscuits, from hats to vodka and Cognac.

On the cusp of a new century, a new era, and a new art form, Cappiello’s work gained immediate popularity. Other young artists began following his lead, and Cappiello soon became known as “the father of modern advertising.”

Although poster art in the fin-de-siècle style continued to flourish, it was widely agreed that Cappiello’s work had transformed the art of poster design with a style far better suited to the quickening tempo of a new century.

Leonetto Cappiello continued creating posters by the hundreds until his death in 1942 at the age of 67, and originals of his work are still bought, sold, and collected by fans and enthusiasts across the globe.

Maurin Quina, 1906, usd2500, France In Cappiello’s most famous image, a grinning green demon uncorks a bottle of apéritif. His color may be intended to suggest that of absinthe, the notoriously naughty spirit of the bohemians that was eventually banned by the French government.

TK | ode to italy

Leonetto Cappiello 充满煽动性的海报作品在巴 黎掀起一股浪潮，其他的广告商也纷纷前来洽谈生 意，他才发现自己独创一种大胆的艺术风格 ：用单纯 的背景与中央醒目的主角形成强烈对比。自此之后，

Leonetto Cappiello 开始承接各种海报委託，持续以 大胆或幽默的风格创作，在进入 20 世纪之际，他的 作品红遍半片天，在意大利处处皆可见。 有 别 于 当 时 一 般 绘 制 海 报 的 方 式，Leonetto Cappiello 首创以单色背景衬托画面中央主角的画法， 发展出辨识度极高的独特风格。随着他的绘画技法越 臻成熟，作品中便不再出现漫画肖像，这也让海报画 面效果更具戏剧张力。 、Toulouse-Lautrec、 与 先 前 谢 勒（Chéret） Mucha 几位海报大师的作品相较，更可看出 Leonetto Cappiello 作品的原创性，这些前辈的作品情感丰富， 带有类似油画的视觉效果，还有其他大师级画家如

Steinlen、Grasset、Bonnard 等等。自 1878 年海报之 父谢勒发明三色石版平面印刷术后，这些艺术家在海 报业更能一展长才，因为这种新型印刷术能让色彩运 用更灵活丰富，还能创造透明感。 石版平面印刷术发明前，广告海报业是运用金属 器具雕刻或是以木板印成版画，成品精细度较低且色 彩颇为受限，过于乏味，难以呈现动人的图像以达到 产品宣传的效果。 但石版平面印刷术发明后，在二十年内，巴黎、 米兰、柏林、美国各大城市的街道上四处皆可见到色 彩缤纷的广告画报，为沉闷的建筑与店家妆点门面， 带来欢乐缤纷的气氛，从脚踏车、巧克力、饼乾、帽子， 到伏特加、白兰地等烈酒，各种产品推出时都会搭配 五颜六色的广告海报。 迎接新世纪、新时代、新的艺术型态，Leonetto Cappiello 的 独 创 风 格 躬 逢 其 盛， 一 炮 而 红， 吸 引 其他的年轻艺术家纷纷加以仿效，不久后 Leonetto Cappiello 便被冠上「现代广告设计之父」的美名。 虽然海报创作中的世纪末华丽风格仍然持续延烧， 但是世人咸认 Leonetto Cappiello 的作品彻底改变海报 设计的艺术，且鲜明的风格更适合新时代的快速节奏。

Leonetto Cappiello 享年 67 岁，于 1942 年逝世前， 每年持续创作上百幅作品，而他的原作仍在全球各地

Bitter Campari, 1921, usd8500, Italy Against a velvety backdrop, an impish jester dressed in Campari red frolics inside an orange peel spiral. Cappiello and his client were keeping abreast of the rise of cocktails in the twenties, concoctions like the Negroni: Campari, gin, vermouth rosso, and a twist of orange.

Veuve Amiot, 1922, usd3800, France Veuve Amiot from the Loire Valley billed itself as “the king of sparkling wines,” and Cappiello aptly designed a whimsical royal connoisseur to render his expert opinion.

WWW.ROSSARTGROUP.COM

Relsky Vodka, 1910, usd3300, France

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出底下大红色衬裤。

交易买卖，吸引许多艺术迷与收藏家争相珍藏。

The revolution was still to come and the masses of White Russian émigrés had not yet descended on Paris when this gleeful Cossack with shocking red beard hit the hoardings in 1910.

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技 法， 将 背 景 涂 成 澄 黄 色， 舞 者 撩 起 蓬 蓬 裙， 露

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谦逊、努力及梦想

Humility, Hard Work, and Dreams Red Mullet Livornese Livornese 红鲣

kitchen conversation

Massimo Bottura’s illustrious restaurant in Modena, Osteria Francescana, has won three Michelin stars and is ranked number three in the world. He talks with Tasting Kitchen about his family influences, culinary philosophy, and the future of Italian cuisine.

§ 位于Modena的餐厅「Osteria Francescana」名气响亮，已摘下三颗米其林星星，高居全球餐厅排行榜第三

名宝座。创办人 Massimo Bottura主厨接受TK访问，畅谈家庭背景的影响、烹饪哲学以及意大利料理的未来。

As a boy you hid from your older brothers under your grandmother’s table as she cooked. Can we see traces of her cooking in yours?

Yes, it’s true that I grew up under my grandmother’s table. Nonna Ancella was always making egg pasta and folding tortellini for our big family. I not only have an emotional attachment to tortellini, but a culinary one as well.

My mother and I always argued over who was the better cook. Till her last breath she was certain that she was much better than me. The truth is that I don’t cook like my mother or my grandmother. I tamper with all their recipes, changing little things to make them lighter and give them more intense flavor. But I’m not apologetic, I believe that traditions need to be pushed forward, moved around a bit. If they don’t change with the times they grow stale.

DAVID HARTUNG, PAOLO TERZI

You have said that you draw inspiration and ideas from all cultural forms. How does that happen?

Inspiration comes from ingredients, from people, from memories, and from living your life as a dream. The most important thing for me is to not get caught up in the commonplace, but to be as fresh as I possibly can be every time I walk into the kitchen. I would also say that contemporary art has had a big influence on the way that I approach Italian cuisine.

Maybe that explains why many of your dishes seem futuristic even though your restaurant is in the middle of medieval Modena?

I often describe my kitchen as “tradition seen from ten kilometers away.” Our Massimo Bottura

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kitchen conversation

← The Crunchy Part of the Lasagne 千层麵脆皮部位 ↘ Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano 五式熟成帕马森干酪

Can you give an example of that?

One day at Osteria we asked ourselves: “Do I boil the meat because centuries of tradition tell me to?” We took the traditional bollito misto recipe and cooked the meat sous-vide to preserve the organoleptic properties which would have been dispersed in the water, while also safeguarding a traditional recipe. A contemporary chef must always ask: “Are we sure our traditions respect the ingredients?” And if they don’t, they need to be reconsidered and re-worked.

Tradition in Italian cuisine means pasta. How do you approach it?

Our tagliatelle al ragù is as traditional as you can get, but nobody makes it that way anymore, slow cooking large cuts of meat and hand chopping them into a ragù. Ours takes three days with a team of three chefs.

Ragù began as a way to make use of meat scraps. We’ve taken that idea into the fourth dimension and brought dignity back to a

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recipe that was at risk of turning into a caricature of itself.

As chef/owner of such a highly acclaimed restaurant, you’ve certainly earned bragging rights – how is it you haven’t been bitten by the celebrity bug?

I’ve always said that the three things we value at Osteria Francescana are humility, hard work, and dreams. There’s always something new to be learned, most often from someone younger than yourself. It’s only when you’re curious and humble and keep learning that you can let your guard down and let the unexpected happen.

The work in the kitchen and the restaurant is endless. When I leave, I’m still thinking about our guests, the evening, new ideas, ways to improve. A restaurant is like a puppy – it needs constant attention and discipline but it also gives back so much life and joy.

And finally, it’s very important to live your life with your feet on the ground but your head in the clouds. I definitely would not be here today, nor would Osteria Francescana, if I didn’t hold on to my dreams and do everything in my power to make them come true.

I know you’ve traveled a lot – how have your dreams been inspired by that?

The first place I want to see is the local market – it gives me a sense of how people relate to food and what’s important to them.

I always try to bring something back from my travels – a tip from another chef, a new ingredient, or a new perspective.

Travel inspires me to open my mind.

Sometimes a new dish comes out of an experience or I learn a new technique from another culture, but everyday life can teach you as much as travel around the world.

It is a question of keeping your eyes wide open and being humble enough to learn from every experience.

You seem to be in awe of the magic of your ingredients. How did that come about?

When I was a child, my grandmother made soups with Parmigiano rind and let me chew them at the table. So from an early

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

traditions root us in a place, culture, and time but they should never remain stagnant.

Traditional food is itself the outcome of successful experiments. We have to continue to evolve our palates, our techniques, and remain flexible toward new ideas and ingredients. Only then can we project concepts into the future and allow culinary evolution to follow.

您曾说小时候为了躲哥哥，也不顾祖母正 在做菜，就钻到煮饭桌下。餐厅菜色有祖 母料理的影子吗？ 说我在祖母 Nonna Ancella 的煮饭桌下 长大一点都不为过，她总忙着为一大家子 制作蛋奶意大利面和包意式馄饨，一刻不 得闲，所以我对意式馄饨在情感上，以及 料理层面都有种特殊的连结。 母亲和我老爱为了谁煮的菜好吃拌嘴， 直到咽下最后一口气之前，她都觉得自己 比我厉害。说实在的，我做菜风格和母亲、 抑或祖母都不像，她们的食谱到我手上会 有些更动、微调细节使其简便之余，做出 来的味道更加浓郁。我从不觉得会对不起 他们，毕竟传统也应该与时俱进，适时推 一把。反之，跟不上时代，固守成规就真 的食古不化了。

套句您的话，各种文化形式都可能是灵感 或新想法的来源，能否进一步阐述？ 灵感来自四面八方，从食材、人类、 记忆，或从过着梦想般的生活方式而来。 关键就在不可流于平庸，每次踏进厨房我 总和自己说，一定要有耳目一新的感觉才 行。当代艺术对我处理意式料理也带来极 大的影响。 是否说明了为何座落于中世纪古镇 Modena 的餐厅却充满强烈未来风格的创新餐 点？ 我常形容自家厨房是「隔十公里看， 百分之百传统」。因为传统，我们得以在某 个空间、文化或时间下生根茁壮，但也不 能因此停滞不前。传统料理本身也是创新 试验成功的产物，所以我们仍须不时改良 口味及技巧，接受新的想法及食材更上一

层楼。唯有如此才能开创新局走向未来， 让餐饮文化持续向前演进。

能否举个例子说明？ 有次在餐厅我们问自已 ： 「我们烫肉片 是否因为几百年来都这样做吗？」我们调 整传统料理 bollito misto 肉类的作法，肉以 低温烹调保留实感，避免放热水烹煮导致 流失的可能，同时仍保留地方菜原本的精 华所在。现在的大厨一定要想 ： 「传统做法 是否尊重食材的本质？」答案若是否定的 话，可能就有再次思考或重新来过的必要。 传统意式料理的代表非意大利面莫属，您 有什麽独到的烹调方法吗？ 「Osteria」的肉酱面保证绝对道地，但 现在没有人这样做了，肉切大块慢火熬煮， 再手工剁烂成肉酱。我们家肉酱面共要三个 ode to italy

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Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart 啊！柠檬塔掉下去了

kitchen conversation

age I regarded Parmigiano as an important, remarkable ingredient, even just the rind on its own.

DAVID HARTUNG

Is that why one of Osteria Francescana’s most intriguing dishes is called “Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano”?

That recipe is a perfect example of my style of cuisine. It began in 1995 when I opened the restaurant and has evolved with time into five elements all made with the same cheese, but from different producers and in different stages of maturity. The dish is grounded in terroir and yet it projects into the future.

It’s made with Parmigiano Reggiano and little else. There is a demi-soufflé of Parmigiano that has been aged twenty-four months, a mousse containing a mature product of thirty months, a liquid cream incorporating a cheese aged thirty-six months, a crisp wafer from a Parmigiano aged forty months, and to top it all, a “breath of air,” a broth of Parmigiano rind from a special product that has aged fifty months or more.

This dish is an expression of Modena, of our terroir and its incredible products. It is about the silence of the aging process and the dedication of our dairy farmers to making the best cheese in the world. It takes courage to use only one ingredient but it also takes an amazing ingredient! But really there are two ingredients, cheese and time. It’s a temporal cubist landscape, where you are looking at the horizon from many perspectives at once.

What do you like to eat at home?

I don’t have much free time to cook at home. If my wife prepares my favorite minestrone, I’ll be home for dinner – nothing is better than that. On a Sunday, it’s always a pleasure to have lunch at home with family, and often my daughter will make Passatelli, a simple bread-crumb pasta she learned to make from my mother. During the week I enjoy sharing meals, both lunch and dinner, with our staff. It is a time to relax together, joke around, talk, and share stories before we all head back into the heat of the kitchen.

厨师一组，三天时间才做得出来。肉酱这种 肉末运用方式在我们餐厅达到新的层次，带 来四维的视觉效果，甘冒可能成为笑话的风 险，也要让这道传统美馔重振威名。

餐厅如此备受好评，身为主厨及老板，要 自吹自擂一番绝对没人敢说二话，但您却 从未被赞美、名誉冲昏头，是怎麽办到的？ 「Osteria Francescana」 遵 循 不 悖 的 三 件事就是谦逊、努力及梦想，永远都有新 的东西要学，学习对象往往都还比自己年 轻。只有保持好奇及一颗谦卑的心、不断 学习才能让自己放下心防，才会碰到出乎 意料的惊喜。

“It takes courage to use only one ingredient but it also takes an amazing ingredient! 若非勇气过人，可不 敢整道菜只用一种食 材，当然前提是食材 也要够好才行！” 厨房或餐厅的工作毫无止境可言，即 便下班，我满脑子还是在想着客人、晚宴、 新点子和任何进步的方式。餐厅某方面来 说像只小狗，需要时时关注，要有纪律， 同时回馈给你的是满满的生活乐趣及欢愉。 最后，生活的关键在于脚踏实地同时， 也把头探向云端。要是没能坚持梦想、想 方设法让梦想成真的话，不会有今天的我， 更别提我们餐厅「Osteria Francescana」了。

我知道您常飞来飞去 , 到各地旅游是否为 您的梦想带来任何启发？ 我第一个去看的就是地方市场－能让 我了解当地人们与食物的关系，所在意的 又是什麽。每趟旅程我也试着带一些东西 回来，其他厨师的手记、新食材或新观点 都好。 旅行让我心胸开阔。有时异国文化的

体验、或他地习得的新技巧都可能成为餐 厅新菜的灵感来源 ；但话说回来，日常生 活中能学到的东西也不会逊于游历世界的 经验，问题在于是否有心打开双眼感受各 式体验、时时保持虚怀若谷的学习精神。

食材产生的美味魔力时常让您惊叹再三， 这种情感从何说起？ 小时候祖母常用 Parmigiano 乾酪皮煮 汤，一边让我在桌旁啃着吃，所以 Parmigiano 乾酪在我小小心灵中便树立重要、厉 害的食材地位，即使只是外皮我都爱不释 手。 那 也 是「Osteria Francescana」 招 牌 菜之一「五式熟成帕马森干酪」名称的 由来吗？ 这道菜算是我料理风格的代表作。 回溯到 1995 年餐厅刚开不久，我采用 不同制造商所产、熟成度各异的同种类 起司，慢慢研发出五种不同元素，除了 吃得到当地风土特色之外，也挹注了我 对未来的见解。 除了主角帕马森干酪（Parmigiano Reggiano）外还加了其他小巧思，包括 熟 成 24 个 月 帕 马 森 干 酪 制 成 的 demisoufflé 舒芙蕾、30 个月熟成品制慕斯、 36 个月起司奶酱以及 40 个月帕马森做 成的酥脆圆饼，最后淋上 50 个月以上 的帕马森干酪皮熬煮的浓汤，犹如「一 抹清新空气」便大功告成。 这道菜就是 Modena 独特风土及顶 级物产的代名词，颂扬的不仅是起司熟 成过程的安静沉稳，还有酪农全心投入 的心血，才能打造全球最棒的起司。若非 勇气过人，可不敢整道菜只用一种食材， 当然前提是食材也要够好才行！真要说的 话其实是用了两种食材，起司及「时间」。 这道立方状的短暂风景，只需一次就能从 各方各面观赏最棒的景致。 在家喜欢吃什麽？ 我在家煮菜的时间少之又少，但若太 太煮了我最爱的意式蔬菜浓汤，晚餐我绝 对回家报到，因想不到有其他更好吃的东 西了。周日有空的话，和家人共进午餐真 的是一大享受，我女儿会下厨做祖母教的 拿手好菜，面包屑意大利面 Passatelli。周 间我喜欢大家一起吃饭，和员工吃午餐和 晚餐，大伙儿可以放松、开开玩笑、聊天 或分享发生的事，短暂充电之后再回厨房 继续奋战。 ode to italy

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Chef Alessandro Nigrini

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传统、创新及合作

Tradition, Innovation, Collaboration For over fifty years Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia, a member of Relais & Chateaux, has been emblematic of Italian cuisine in Milan. CEO Stefania Moroni, whose parents, Aimo and Nadia, founded the restaurant, has elevated the interior with her discerning taste in modern art. She fosters a collaborative process between executive chefs Alessandro Nigrini and Fabio Pisani that harmonizes tradition with innovation to give each authentic ingredient a voice of its own. Chef Nigrini took time to speak with Mark Hammons in Milan.

§ 顶级餐饮旅馆联盟「Relais & Chateaux」会员之一的「Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia」

一直是米兰意式料理界的金字招牌，屹立至今已超过半世纪。餐厅由Aimo及 Nadia创立，两人的女儿 Stefania Moroni 目前担任执行董事，发挥对当代艺术的超高品味翻新餐厅内装，展现不凡风格。也是在她的撮合下，两位行政主厨 Alessandro Nigrini及Fabio Pisani合作，融合传统精髓及创新精神，让各式食材各司其职、发光发热。Nigrini在米兰接

受Mark Hammons访问，畅谈餐厅的理念。

Can you explain the concept behind your cuisine?

The most important thing for us is to respect the raw ingredients and also our Italian heritage. We want to preserve the collective memory of all the essential Italian flavors. That doesn’t mean that we have to make the customary dishes, but we do need to understand Italian history from a cultural as well as a sensory point of view.

Once you can put all this together from your own memory and your education, then you’re able to invent something that has never been done before but seems like it’s been there for centuries. So our style is our style – it’s innovative, but at the same time it recalls all the Italian traditions.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

How do you go about creating a new menu or dish?

Every new dish starts with an idea that flows from our collaboration as chefs. Our ideas also come from exchanges with our suppliers, the producers. They sometimes try out new things on us. For example, our olive suppliers may grow new types of olives to create different oils for us. This exchange of ideas helps us broaden our view.

How would you characterize the flavor combinations in your dishes?

What’s really important to us is that flavors come together in a harmonious way.

There may be three or four ingredients in a

Spaghettoni of Semolina Carbonara Style with Caciocavallo Cheese, White Turnip Marinated in Mothia Salt and Caraway Seeds

Semolina Carbonara 意大利面佐羊奶干酪起司、 Mothia 盐调味白萝卜及葛缕子籽 We think that the texture of the spaghettoni goes very well with this dressing, the egg of the classic carbonara softened by the turnip cooked and dried with Mothia salt. This special salt from ancient salt pans on an island in Sicily leaves the palate clean, without any persistent or unpleasant savory notes. The scent of mountain caraway finishes this vegetable dish, a nice blend of aromas, varying textures, and intense flavors. 意大利面的口感和酱料搭配的无懈可击，白萝卜过煮后以 Mothia 盐沥乾调味，

配着经典白酱 carbonara 中的奶蛋一起吃味道相当柔和。Mothia 盐产自西西里 小岛上的古老盐矿盆地，入口咸味适中、倍觉清爽。这道满是蔬菜的餐点最后加上 高山葛缕子带来画龙点睛的效果，各式香气交融，产生多变口感及浓厚味道。 ode to italy

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interview

Buckwheat Cracker with Speck (from D’Osvaldo) 由肉肠商 D’Osvaldo 所产的荞麦饼佐 Speck 熏肉 This is a wafer of pure buckwheat produced in Valtellina in Lombardy, its own “terroir,” as well as Chef Alessandro’s birthplace.

The natural aroma of this grain, which has an almost spicy taste, pairs very well with the speck, a type of bacon produced

by D’Osvaldo, the historic sausage producer. The bacon is seasoned with spices and lightly smoked in an open fireplace.

This dish is one way to make a little tour to some of the best things in Italy through the use of just two ingredients. 纯荞麦圆饼原料来自 Lombardy 的 Valtellina 地区，除了是 Alessandro 主厨的出生地之外，还吃得到原产地独有的 「风土」 。荞麦散发天然风味，吃起来近乎辛呛，搭配历史悠久的肉肠商 D’Osvaldo 所产 speck 熏肉十分对味。Speck 辛香料调味后置于开放的炉火间轻微烟燻。这道菜只用了两种食材，却能带人神游意大利，一览当地品质卓越的丰饶物产。

dish, and what’s important is not what they are, but how they integrate. The important thing about food is not whether it’s innovative or traditional, old style or modern – there are only two types of cuisine, good and bad.

When you have a complex combination of flavors like the ones in our dishes, you have to be able to manage them to create a harmonious result. It’s like a circle – everything has to meet and match perfectly. You have to taste each ingredient and each one must play a distinctive role. Just like playing the piano – you have a mixture of notes and chords that create a perfect harmony. In cooking, ingredients are your notes, their combination is the chord, and the dish is the final harmonious piece.

And what are these elements that you use to produce the finished product?

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All the various sensations and flavors combined. Bitterness, sweetness, saltiness, acidity, umami – they all come together to create the dish. There has to be a unity and harmony among them.

What are the main techniques you use in preparing your dishes?

We use all the techniques we know, from the most modern to the most traditional. For example, to keep it healthy we cook beans in a terracotta pot that’s a hundred years old – it’s extraordinary quality, without any lead or additives. We make a point of using techniques that preserve the inner integrity and flavors of each ingredient. I don’t want to make life easier, I want techniques that will enhance the taste of the ingredients, but not necessarily in the easiest way.

How would you say your cooking style has been reflected in your life and career path?

We’re all somewhere in the middle of a path. Most people associate Italian cuisine with tradition, the typical mother and grandmother cooking, but there has always been a strong sense of innovation and creativity all over Italy, from Sicily to Lombardy, and that’s what we pursue.

I’m very satisfied with my career, but it’s still under construction, still devoted to experimentation. I haven’t reached the final milestone yet!

But, remember, all the most important innovators in mankind’s history – take the great Italian designers of the 60s – they all had a great respect for history and tradition.

It’s only by knowing our history that we can create something new.

能否分享一下料理背后的理念？ 尊重原食材及意大利传统是两大优先 考量，我们希望能以纯正意大利风味保存 人们美好的集体记忆。当然不是说一切就 要照传统来、固守成规，但从文化及感知 两个面向切入，进一步了解意大利历史对 我们而言仍然不可或缺。从自己的记忆、 所受的教育为出发点，综合统整后开创出 来的新东西，一方面看似没有前人做过， 却同时有种似曾相识、早已传承数百年的 感觉。总之，我们的风格就是走「我们」 自己的路线－创新之际不忘呼应意大利各 种美食传统。 想新菜单或创造新菜时有什麽必经过程 吗？ 厨师合作时可能激发一些想法，或许 会成为创作新菜的契机，又或者和供应商、 製 造商交换意见也都能激 盪 出新的点子。 他们常常一有新东西，就拿我们餐厅当试 金石。像橄榄供应商就会栽植新种橄榄萃 製 不同油品供我们使用，也就是这种交流 方式拓展了我们的眼界。 各式菜色风味交融的风格招牌特色何在？ 我们真正在意的是各种风味能否搭配 的恰如其分。一道菜 裡 可能有三到四种食 材，但重点不在食材上，彼此如何相辅相 成才是关键。有关食物，创新或传统也好， 老派或当代也罢，通通都还是其次－真要 说，料理只分两种，好吃或不好吃。要做 我们餐厅那种口味繁 複 的菜，就要有本事 让各种食材结合无隙，创造出一加一大于 二的效果。就像画圈一样，各方各面都要 交会、契合才行。每样食材逐一品 嚐，各 自扮演彼此无法取代的角色，拿谈钢琴来 说好了，不同音符及和弦组合在一起才是 美妙的旋律 ；煮菜也一样，食材就像音符， 组合之后成为和弦，料理则是完美协和的 最后成果。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

准备上桌的最终成果通常有什麽重要元 素？ 各种不同的感官知觉及风味加在一起 吧。苦、甜、咸、酸、鲜，通通交融之后 才能拼凑出美味的一道菜，其中一致性及 协调度缺一不可。 烹饪时常运用的主要技巧为何？ 所有知道的，从最现代到最传统的技 巧都能派上用场。为求健康，煮豆子用的 是有百年历史的赤陶锅，不添加任何铅或 其他成份，品质没话说。运用烹饪技巧所 求无他，就是为了保留食材的内在本质及 味道。我不特别挑轻 鬆 的路走，技巧对我

Focaccia of “Burned” Durum Wheat with Tomatoes and Lard of Cinta Senese Pig (from Guadagni) 由 Guadagni 所产的 烤 Durum 小麦製 Focaccia 佐蕃茄及 Cinta Senese 极品猪油 If the previous dish was dedicated to Alessandro, this one is a small tribute to Chef Fabio. The “burned” wheat flour used in the focaccia comes from Puglia and is inspired by an ancient tradition of his homeland.

Durum wheat is burned and then ground, producing a dark flour with hints of smokiness. Our focaccia is flavored with the addition of small tomatoes on top, and when cool it is served with lard from Cinta Senese pigs, a half-wild breed from Tuscany. The lard is aged in white marble vats in Colonnata in the Alps. The sweetness of the fat marries well with the slightly bitter focaccia. A few leaves of a special oregano that is found only in the marine reserve at Vendicari, Sicily, completes the dish. 若说上一道菜献给 Alessandro，接下来这道美馔就是向 Fabio 主厨致敬所 特制。制作 focaccia 使用的「烤」小麦粉来自普立亚，依循的是主厨家乡 流传已久的传统作法。Durum 小麦过烤后研磨，制成的小麦粉色泽偏暗， 带点烟烤味。餐厅的 focaccia 上面复着小块蕃茄调味，放冷后佐以 Cinta

Senese 猪油。Cinta Senese 为托斯卡尼的半野生极品猪种，猪油萃出后 放入白色大理石缸中，置于阿尔卑斯山区的 Colonnata 熟成。猪油的甜味 正好中和 focaccia 吃起来的一丝苦涩，最后再洒上几片西西里 Vendicari 海生保育区的独有种牛至叶，便大功告成。

而言要能提 昇 食材的滋味，而且常常都要 花费好一番功夫才行。

您的特殊烹饪风格是否某种程度反应在生 活及厨师生涯？ 大家都差不多，还在半路，离终点还 有距离。说到意大利菜，很多人浮出脑海 的印象不脱就是传统、典型老妈子或奶奶 传下来的料理，但其实从西西里到 Lom-

bardy，意大利各地菜系都满载创新及创意， 那也正是我们追求的目标。厨师生涯走到 现在我很满意，但一方面也可以说，一切 仍在建构当中，寻求各种新创实验，最后 一块里程碑离我还远着呢！应该谨记在心 的是，人类史上所有伟大的创新先驱－拿 60 年代意大利那批才华洋溢的设计师来说 好了，都对过往历史及传统保持尊敬及推 崇。唯有熟知历史，才有创新的可能。 ode to italy

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多重感官飨宴

Multisensory Conception

10 Grams of Pasta with Snails and Octopus Chef “Max” turns the traditional notion of a pasta dish on its head – using a mere 10 grams of pasta, rather than the usual 80 or 100, swimming in a lot of sauce. The sauce becomes the protagonist in this dish served in the pan.

10公克章鱼蜗牛意大利面 主厨Max打破传统，将仅仅10公克(不是80或100公克)的 意大利面加入酱汁中。酱汁成为这道料理的主角。

tasting destination

Chef Massimiliano Alajmo

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Massimiliano Alajmo, the precocious chef who, at twenty-eight, was the youngest ever to achieve three Michelin stars, presides over Le Calandre near Padua. The restaurant serves as his flavor laboratory, test kitchen, and creative studio and leads diners into a sensually enveloping experience in innovative Italian food.

THE ELUSIVE CITRUSY SCENT that greets the nostrils of guests as they enter the dining room of Le Calandre is just the first note in an extended tone poem that Chef Massimiliano Alajmo has carefully composed through a process of meticulous research and painstaking execution.

The scent came out of his collaboration with master perfumer Lorenzo Dante Ferro in a quest to get to the heart of the sense of smell and its relation to serious food. “Scents and aromas often help connect us to our past,” says Alajmo. “Smell is the most immediate sense and it’s linked to the center of long-term memory.” Out of their work came a series of distilled aroma essences called “Le Essenze” that the chef may spray over a dish at the last moment

活力充沛的 Massimiliano Alajmo 于莫多瓦 担任 Le Calandre 餐厅主厨，并在二十八岁 时摘下米其林三星，成为史上最年轻的三 星主厨。这家餐厅好比是他个人的味觉实 验室、实验厨房和创意工作室，任他恣意 挥洒技巧创作意式料理，带给客人余韵无 穷的感官体验。 一走进 Le Calandre，扑鼻而来的柑橘 香让人心驰神往，这是主厨 Massimiliano Alajmo 不断实验和努力尝试谱出的交响乐 诗，为他的美食乐章展开序曲。 这独特的香气是和意大利调香大师 Lorenzo Dante Ferro 合 作， 挑 选 出 能 进 入 嗅觉中枢，并能与餐厅真诚制作的料理并 存的香味。Alajmo 说 ： 「香气和味道常常带 领我们穿越时空，回到过去。嗅觉是最立 即、敏锐的感官，会在记忆中历久犹存。」 经过长时间尝试，调制出一系列名为 Le

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“ Eating with your hands, listening to a sound, smelling a scent, savoring a taste, seeing the smiles of those you’re having dinner with, they all create a simple, genuine harmony. 这些细节不外乎用双手大快朵颐、悦耳的声响、 飘散的香气、余韵不绝的好味道、一起用餐者的 笑容，共同交织谱写出最简单动人的协奏曲。”

to lend intense notes or subliminal hints.

“Someone has said that scents are ‘luxury in the air’ and they help to open our minds and elevate our thoughts.”

Alajmo is committed to the principle that each of the human senses must play a part in the complete dining event: “Eating with your hands, listening to a sound, smelling a scent, savoring a taste, seeing the smiles of those you’re having dinner with, they all create a simple, genuine harmony.”

His perfectionist approach to the visual elements is apparent in the radical redesign of the dining room carried out in 2010. He and his brother Raffaele, who is CEO, worked with lighting designer Davide Groppi on the unique egg-inspired ceiling lamps, and the brothers bought a 180-yearold ash tree in Normandy and had all the tables fashioned from crosscuts of this single log. Theirs is the only three-star restaurant in the world without tablecloths, just so diners can enjoy the tactile pleasure of running their hands over the grain of the wood. Some of Alajmo’s own paintings hang on the walls, and the glassware pattern, named “L’empreinte,” replicates the thumbprint of the chef.

As for the sense of taste, Alajmo can find inspiration from the most unlikely of sources.

A recharging cell phone by his bed rang one night, and when he gulped the glass of water next to it he detected a subtle electric-smoky taste imparted by the phone. Soon he was

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infusing smoke flavors into water, butter, broths, and pasta doughs.

Alajmo never gives up on uncovering the nature of an ingredient until he reaches bedrock. “There is no tried and true method,” he admits, “other than respecting and listening to each specific ingredient. The birth of a dish can take a minute or a year.”

But where does sound come in? When asked which of his mental concepts was hardest to carry out, he recalls “In and Out,” one of his annual interactive desserts that he calls games. Each game is an elaborate arrangement of chocolate in various manifestations, which together represent an idea.

“It was my 2012 chocolate game, dedicated to the birth of my youngest daughter, Giorgia,” says Alajmo. “It was intended to lead our guests on a journey from the womb to birth, reconstructing the sound and then the light. I remember how we recorded Giorgia’s fetal heartbeat for the soundtrack that would be played during the chocolate tasting game. In trying to grasp emotions that occur once and never again you have to analyze every detail, even the seemingly most stupid, to try to recreate a feeling that happens only under certain special conditions. Combining all the elements was fun, but very complex. The whole exercise made me understand that with cuisine, it’s not about commanding but rather about loving and serving.”

Essenze( 精华 ) 的香氛，如同厨师在每道料 理上桌前，总会在盘上最后点缀，画龙点睛。 「有客人说这款香味彷佛是『来自云端的欢 愉』，让人心胸开阔、思路清晰。」 Alajmo 深信感官的满足是造就美好用 餐经验的关键。「这些细节不外乎用双手大 快朵颐、悦耳的声响、飘散的香气、余韵 不绝的好味道、一起用餐者的笑容，共同 交织谱写出最简单动人的协奏曲。」 Alajmo 对 于 用 餐 环 境 要 求 完 美， 在 2010 年餐厅翻新的装潢中彻底展现。他和 担任餐厅执行长的哥哥 Raffaele，与照明 设计师 Davide Groppi 合作采用鸡蛋造型吊 灯。两兄弟也从诺曼地购买树龄为 180 岁 的 梣 树，以纵切方式制作成餐桌。这是唯 一没有使用桌布的米其林三星餐厅，但如 此一来客人便能用双手碰触木头的纹理。 餐厅墙上挂着 Alajmo 收藏的画作，还有仿 自主厨指纹、名为 L’empreinte 的玻璃器皿。 对于味道，Alajmo 总能在日常生活中 得到启发。某天晚上他照例将手机放在床 头充电，当他拿起旁边的水杯喝水时，竟 然发现水里掺着手机发散的烟硝味。之后 他仿制这个味道并将其加进餐厅内所用的 水、奶油、高汤和面团中。 Alajmo 对于食材本质总是追根究底。 他坦白地说 ： 「这没有窍门可循，就是真诚 的对待并忠于展现每样食材的特色。一道 菜的诞生可能是一分钟，有时也可能要花 上一年。」 灵感都从哪里来？当被问及哪个创作 概念是最难具体化时，他回忆着说应该是 『从心跳到诞生 (In and Out) 』，这是他名 为「玩游戏」的年度拟态甜点创作之一。 每个游戏都以巧克力为主要元素加以变化， 呈现他天马行空的想像力。 Alajmo 说 ： 「这是我 2012 年的巧克力 设计游戏，献给我刚出生的小女儿葛洛莉 亚。为了让客人感受小婴儿从子宫到诞生 的过程，我们试着还原当时的声音和光线。 那时为了录制在巧克力游戏时播放的背景 音乐，我们努力录下葛洛莉亚胎动的过程 依旧记忆犹新。捕捉那样难得一见的情绪， 你必须仔细分析所有相关细节，甚至更蠢 的是，我们还试着还原现场，重现那样独 特的感受。把所有要素凑在一起很有趣， 但同时也相当复杂。透过这个过程让我体 会到料理不应该是居高临下，而应该是传 达爱意和分享。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

tasting destination

Bone with Herbs Le Calandre’s take on osso buco: marrow served in its bone, flavored with burnt, still smoking herbs. 香草炖肉 Le Calandre的招牌炖肉：带骨小 牛膝加入烟燻香草一起炖煮。

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Every element of the interior, from lighting to cutlery, has been designed to engage the senses, including a little window that gives diners intriguing glimpses of the chef in the kitchen. 餐厅装潢从照明到餐具 无不精心挑选，目的是 满足顾客的感官享受， 包括开放式厨房设计， 让好奇的顾客可透过玻 璃窗一窥厨房究竟。

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Chocolat sur l’herbe Every year Alajmo devises a chocolate “game,” an interactive dessert with multiple chocolate elements. For 2014 it was a play on Manet’s painting, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, “lunch on the grass,” served on a tablecloth of AstroTurf. 草地上的巧克力 每年Alajmo都会以巧克力作为拟态甜点的主要创作元素，策划出不同主题的巧克 力游戏。2014年的灵感来自莫内画作「草地上的午餐」，甜点会放在像尼龙草皮 的桌巾上。

documentary

完美披萨进化论

Pizza, Perfected In the small Italian town of San Bonifacio, the quest to ennoble a national dish has animated a life.

主厨 Simone Padoan，是一名从六岁起便梦 SIMONE PADOAN is a pizzaiolo, a role he has 想成为作披萨的厨师。Padoan 回忆 ： 「我 dreamed of since the age of six. “I am the 是家中九个兄弟排行最小的。我曾经荒唐， baby, the last of nine brothers,” says Padoan. 在读书时交友不慎差点误入歧途 , 家人对 “When I was in school I got in with a bad 于我的作为真是伤透了脑筋。但哥哥没有 crowd and was heading down the wrong 放弃我，还让我在他经营着的一家披萨餐 path – I was the black sheep of the family. 厅里帮忙，对我而言，这机会就是在茫茫 But my brother ran a pizzeria and gave me 汪洋中拯救生命的浮木，让我彻底改变。 a job, and that was my salvation. I worked 在 哥 哥 餐 厅 里 我 工 作 了 整 整 七 年， 直 至 there for seven years before I opened my own 1994 年拥有了属于自己的第一家餐厅。餐 place in 1994, and for five years it was just a 厅刚起步的前五年仅是一家单纯卖披萨的 simple pizza place. But then I had a moment 餐厅，然而我开始迟疑是不是真 of doubt.”

BY 的要继续这样下去。」 Padoan grew disenchanted as LUCY MORGAN 当意识到在意大利只将披 he watched pizza being treated 萨定位为廉价、难登大雅之堂的 like cheap fast food in Italy. All PHOTOGRAPHY BY 速食时，Padoan 感到有点泄气。 over the country, multipurpose DAVID HARTUNG 复合式餐厅如雨后春笋般到处林 eateries were opening – pizzerias 立，披萨店不只卖披萨，可能同 combined with bars, cafés, and 时兼作酒吧、咖啡厅或兼卖三明治。这些餐 sandwich shops. They were big restaurants 厅提供客人多样的选择，却无法让人印象 with lots of choices but no clear identity. 深刻。看到这样的风气 Padoan 决定采取行 Padoan decided to take action: “I had to 动： 「要薄利多销？或者是反其道而行地提 choose mass production with low quality or 高品质、颠复大众对披萨的刻板印象？我 go in the totally opposite direction, raising 必须在两者间作抉择。我想知道客人会不 the quality and changing the way my custom会为了品尝到不同种类的、更可口和更高 ers looked at pizza. I wondered if it would 品质的食材买单？那时在意大利没有人相 be possible to get people to pay more for a 信披萨能带来像高级料理般的用餐体验。 」 different sort of pizza, well made with top 这个理想的坚持导致 Padoan 的婚姻破 quality ingredients. At the time, it seemed

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that no one in all of Italy was thinking of pizza as a complete dining experience.”

This crisis of faith coincided with the breakup of Padoan’s marriage. In the face of his personal and professional anguish, he was determined to try to get people to consider pizza in a different light. “The change had to start with me,” he explains, “I had to be the first innovation. I had to go back to basics: if I wanted people to reach a new level in their perception of pizza, I needed to really understand what I was doing.”

But it wasn’t an easy journey: “Before finally getting there, I had to hit bottom.

One Monday evening no one came into the pizzeria at all. That’s when I understood I had to change. If no one was coming in, it meant to me that those of us inside didn’t really want people to come in. So either I

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had to change jobs or I had to change the way I was working.”

Padoan went to work with a local baker after work, learning about different flours and techniques until the early hours of the morning. To apply what he learned, he began to offer customers two options: a shorter version of the classic menu and an experimental menu designed to introduce, little by little, new ingredients and new styles of pizza. The menu would serve as a research tool to discover which varieties were popular with diners. During 2000 the experimental menu grew to include six or eight pizzas, and Padoan began to feel confident that his strategy was a success.

In 2005 his restaurant was featured on a popular prime time TV show on which the Gambero Rosso ratings were being

presented. The next day the line waiting to try his innovative pizzas was so long that he had to turn people away. He was fully booked for the next three months.

Success has not changed this pizzaiolo.

He’s in no hurry to open branches of I Tigli, and he continues to take a very active role in the kitchen. “I see myself as a craftsman,” he says, “and there’s only one secret in my kitchen – my hands. I make all the dough myself, along with my team. Unfortunately, I’m not very good at delegating! I lead my guys, and I can tell they love what they do and they’re very proud of working here. They’re all very careful and committed, but the dough for my pizzas, which I believe is the most important part, needs to pass under my hands.”

Padoan goes on to explain a little about

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裂。在面临人生和事业双重的困境下，他 下定决心要让披萨在一般人的心目中脱胎 换骨。他进一步表示 ： 「这个转变必须由我 开始。想要改变现况、引领风潮，我必须 从根本做起 ：要让披萨进入不同层次、打 破大众对披萨的既定印象，那麽我需要清 楚知道自己在做什麽。」 这不是件容易的事。 「为了达到目的我 必须破釜沉舟。某个星期一晚上餐厅连一个 顾客都没有，我想是时候改变了。没有顾客 愿意光临我的餐厅，也意味着我没有尽力让 顾客想来光顾。这样下去只有两条路可走 ： 要不就宣布倒闭，不然就彻底脱胎换骨。 」 收工之后 Padoan 继续到当地面包师傅 身边当学徒工作到隔天清晨，因此他熟悉 面粉的种类并学会烘培饼皮的技术。运用 在面包店的所学，他开始在餐厅里提供顾 客两种选择 ：传统口味的薄脆饼皮披萨和 实验性的特制披萨，目的在逐渐让客人接

触不同的食材和制作方式。菜单是用来了 解顾客口味的最佳工具，经过 2000 次的尝 试组合总结出六到八种最热销的披萨口味， Padoan 由此开始对他的策略产生信心。 2005 年 Padoan 的餐厅透过意大利极 具权威的美食指南 Gambero Rosso( 大红虾 ) 推荐，在黄金时段的电视节目被报导，隔 天他的餐厅立刻大排长龙，顾客慕名而来 想要一尝他的创意披萨，人潮过多到他不 得不拒绝顾客上门，要预约也必须排到三 个月后。 这个成功并没有让 Padoan 乱了阵脚。 他不急着开 I Tigli 的分店并且依然坚持在 厨房工作。「我将自己定位成一位工艺创作 者。」他说。「在我的厨房只有一个秘密－ 就是我的双手，所有的饼皮都必须由我亲 自制作。很遗憾地，在这一点上我无法让步， 即使是我非常优秀的工作团队。我的团队 成员们，我非常确定他们都热爱且全心投

入这份工作，也对这份工作感到非常骄傲。 他们都非常细心且说到做到，但披萨饼皮 －成就披萨口感非常关键的一环，必须要 经由我的手。」 Padoan 进 一 步 说 明 他 是 怎 样 制 作 出 独一无二的饼皮。发酵过程中必须用搅拌 机以不同转速搅拌，每阶段再一点一点加 入面粉，每一张饼皮需要花上至少两天才 能完成。而面粉是特地到知名磨坊 Molino Quaglia 买的。「饼皮是一切的基础，它是 成就披萨好坏的关键。配料固然重要，但 根基更需要扎稳。有一句意大利谚语说 ： 好的开始是成功的一半。从披萨的角度来 说就是制作松软适中的饼皮加上好品质的 面粉和准确的配方。」 除了面粉，Padoan 对于挑选食材一样 不马虎，这让他的披萨口味无懈可击。他 的创作多元，想像力丰富，如简朴、异国 风情、奢华等等，因此能取悦不同口味的 ode to italy

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From the Garden 四季庭园

Made with Romana dough and seasonal vegetables, this pizza changes its toppings four times a year. In autumn the flavors are a bit heartier, in summer they’re fresher. At the moment we use things like grilled celery, roasted pumpkin, winter green beans, pickled red onion, and puntarelle, which is a Roman type of chicory. The vegetables are all cooked at different temperatures. Romana dough gets double-baked in the electric oven. The first time is because it’s a very soft dough that needs to be cooked through, the second time is to make it crunchy. 以薄脆饼皮佐以当季蔬菜製作而成，配合季节更替选用新鲜食材，秋季温润， 夏季清爽。目前我们选用烘乾的西洋芹、烤南瓜、四季豆、腌渍圆葱和罗马 品种的菊苣。各式蔬菜以不同适温烹调，薄脆饼皮则透过两段式烘烤。第一 次烘烤是为了让松软的饼皮烤透，第二次则是增加它的脆度。

Sea and Earth 海陆双拼

This pizza is made with cabbage, cod, and snails – three ingredients strongly rooted in our territory. The red cabbage is marinated in vinegar, a method we’ve always used in our kitchen. The cod I prepared alla vicentina, a traditional regional technique. The snails come from Sant’Andrea, a nearby village. In our entrance you’ll find a huge sculpture of a snail, just to give you an idea how important snails are to our cuisine! So this is a pizza connected to my region, and the combination of ingredients forms a link between sea and land.

以甘蓝、鳕鱼和蜗牛三种深入地表和海底的食 材制作而成。醋腌紫甘蓝，是餐厅常用的醃制 方式，鳕鱼以传统方法盐渍，蜗牛则来自邻近 村庄圣安德烈。在餐厅的大门可以看见一个巨 大的蜗牛雕塑，由此可见蜗牛在菜单上举足轻 重的地位！这道披萨蕴含我的家乡味，同时也 透过食材将地表与深海紧紧连结在一起。

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the delicate process of creating the dough, using a blend of different grades of flour added at different stages during the rising process, which can take two days or more.

“The dough is the base of the pizza and it has to be the tastiest part. Topping ingredients are important, yes, but the base is essential.

There’s an Italian idiom that can be translated as ‘a good beginning is half the battle.’

In pizza terms that means starting off right by making a good dough with the right flours and the right fermentation.” The right flours for Padoan are those produced by the legendary Molino Quaglia mill nearby.

But Padoan is as just as rigorous in selecting the ingredients that will top his pizzas as he is about the flour that goes into

their base. His imagination has come up with an extensive array of simple, exotic, and extravagant toppings to gratify any taste and suit any budget. “We’ve tried to create a menu that lets guests spend whatever they like. Last night, for instance, we had a table that spent 11€ each – they just had two pizzas, beer, and coffee, and they really enjoyed their meal. The table next to them had pizza, wine, and dessert and spent 45€ each.”

Padoan’s philosophy is that dining shouldn’t be an elitist event. “I believe that every restaurant, whether it has a Michelin star or not, should have choices that allow everyone to enjoy the dining experience.

Menus should offer dishes with varying

prices. And it doesn’t mean the cheapest dishes will have a lower quality, but rather that they’ll use ingredients that are simpler and more cost-effective. That way your cuisine can be accessible to everyone.”

The decision to stay in San Bonifacio has a deeper meaning for Padoan than simply his professional desire to stay close to his kitchen. He feels an enormous loyalty toward the town that rescued him when he was in trouble and that later brought him such success. “Our choice to stay here was connected to the journey we’ve made.

Moving the restaurant away from San Bonifacio would have been a betrayal to all the people who’ve followed and supported us. I Tigli must be here.” ode to italy

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顾客并配合不同的消费预算。「我们试着创 造出符合各种顾客需求的菜单。就以昨晚 为例，有一桌客人每个人花 11 欧享用了两 片披萨、啤酒和咖啡，他们吃得很尽兴 ； 而另一桌客人每人花 45 欧吃披萨搭配了酒 和甜点。」 Padoan 的哲学是，美食是平易近人的。

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「我相信每家餐厅，不论有否在米其林摘星， 都应该让每个用餐的客人获得美好的经验、 尽兴而归。菜单上应该依据不同的选择提 供不同价位，这并不表示低价无美味，而 是食材更为简单、在成本上更经济。这样 一来你的料理能更广泛地被大众所接受。」 决定留在圣博尼法乔对 Padoan 而言意

义深远，不仅是他想尽情享受在厨房的工 作，还有对这个小镇的强烈情感－这是在 泥沼中拉他一把，并造就他日后成功的幕 后功臣。「在这里开餐厅对我们而言意义非 凡。把餐厅开到别处就是对曾经给予我们 支持的顾客最大的背叛。I Tigli 绝对不会离 开圣博尼法乔。」

Margherita 玛格丽特

Margherita pizza incorporates key Mediterranean flavors and ingredients: tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, oregano, and olive oil. Biting into a slice of it with your eyes closed, you actually experience all the essential perfumes and flavors of the Mediterranean. We dedicate a full page on our menu to the Margherita, and we offer four versions, each slightly different from the classical one, so that our guests can taste our personal interpretations. On this pizza we use the datterino tomato from Sicily, a small, sweet variety. We top it with buffalo mozzarella, which we don’t cook, but just slice on the pizza and gently warm in the oven. We chose this combination because the datterino’s sweetness matches the mozzarella’s nutty notes, and the bitter aftertaste makes a great contrast. 玛格丽特披萨呈现的是地中海风味和食材 ：番茄、莫札瑞拉起司、罗勒、奥勒冈和橄 榄油。闭上眼睛轻咬一口，每每能感受到来自地中海的气息。菜单上以整页篇幅特别 介绍玛格丽特，并且供应四种不同搭配组合，每种口味都不同于传统、富含新意，顾 客可以尝到我们餐厅独有的特殊风味。 玛格丽特经心选用来自西西里的德特里尼番 茄，小巧但甜度饱满。搭配未经烘烤的水牛莫札瑞拉起司，仅轻洒饼皮上后放入炉内 温烤。这样的组合是因为德特里尼的甜味能完全平衡莫札瑞拉起司的苦味，在您的味 蕾上达到绝妙的平衡。

presented by

腌肉美馔

Salumi Simplified Savory cured meats from every region have been enjoyed on Italy’s tables for centuries, and today the whole world knows why.

FOR MORE THAN TWO MILLENNIA Italians have been curing and salting the

意大利人腌制猪肉已有两千年的历史。在过去，

meat of pigs, in the past to ensure a precious supply of preserved meat during

这么做是为了在严寒冬日裡仍有腌制的肉类能

the harsh winter months. Forests were once measured, not by their acreage,

够享用。那时候，衡量一座森林的标准不是面

but by their capacity to nourish pigs, and in time hams even became a form

积，而是能豢养多少猪隻 ；火腿甚至成为一种

of currency. From the Middle Ages onwards, butchers and producers formed

货币。从中世纪开始，屠夫和肉品制造商就组

guilds and fraternities to safeguard their traditions and recipes as production

成工会和公会以维护他们自身的传统和家传配

and consumption of salumi continued to become more important.

方，同时腌制肉品的生产和消费也备受重视。

Modern technology has enabled these artisanal products to reach a

现代科技促使精致食品在世界各地被享用

global audience, while still preserving their cultural heritage and traditions and

的同时，也保留自己的文化传承以及与产地之

maintaining the close connection to their geographical regions of production.

间密不可分的联繫。在欧洲所有通过 PDO 和

Remarkably, salumi today make up one third of all European meat products

PGI 认可的肉品中，腌肉就佔了三分之一，令

that are PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) or PGI (Protected Geographical

人啧啧称奇。

Indication) certified.

“Salumi ( 腌制肉品 )” 指的是数百种以盐

The name salumi refers to hundreds of types of salt-cured, fermented,

腌制、发酵、风乾以及烹煮的肉品，包括油封

air-dried, and cooked products, including confits, pâtés and many others, all

肉、肉酱等等，猪肉仍是最主要的材料。腌肉

with the meat of pigs still largely the basic ingredient. Broadly, salumi fall into

大致上可以分成两类 ：由猪的某一部位制成，

one of two categories, either comprised of a single part of the animal (as the

比方说由腿部製成的 (prosciutto) ；或由猪皮

leg for prosciutto) or insaccato, “bagged,” encased in skin, like mortadella and

所 包 复 的 (insaccato)， 比 方 说 mortadella 或

salami. Six products top the list of what is indubitably Italy’s most distinctive

salami。以下所介绍的六种肉品，是意大利名

gastronomic export.

列前茅、热销国外的顶级美馔。

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Speck

Salami

Prosciutto Crudo

风景秀丽的 Alto Adige 区位于意大利和奥地

Salami 应该是意大利腌肉中最着名的一种，

Prosciutto 从罗马时代开始就是最受欢迎的醃

利的交界，虽然两国都生产一种称为 speck

国内各地都有自己的料理方式。Salumen 在

製肉品，并有无数人彷製。它的真面目其实

的 肉 品， 但 风 味 却 大 相 迳 庭。 奥 地 利 版 的

拉丁文是「溷合醃肉」的意思，而它的起源

只是风乾的生火腿 ；在意大利文中，prosci-

speck 是由猪腹的脂肪製成，而意大利的版本

可能早于古罗马时代。Salami 并非特指某种

ugare 这个动词就是「乾透」的意思。

却使用猪的大腿肉，经过腌制、调味、烟燻、

类型的肉类，而是置于肠衣中发酵、风乾的

风乾才大功告成。

任何肉类。

无骨的大腿肉先被切成多块，再以盐、

Salami 混 合 了 各 种 肉 类， 口 感 兼 容 并

和世界上其他顶级火腿一样，使用高品 质的猪肉才能作出美味的 prosciutto crudo， 那些猪隻必须吃对食物，才能使火腿的风味

胡椒、杜松、迷迭香和桂叶充分调味。它们

蓄，使饕客们能尝到各种独特的味道－柔嫩、

恰到好处。prosciutto crudo 通常由较大型的

必须先静置约一个月，才能使用气味浓烈的

适中或多筋的肉，以及香料及调味品的味道。

猪隻製成，而那些猪隻可是吃富含玉米和蔬

山毛榉、梣木或杜松烟熏，这个过程相当重要，

大 蒜、 辣 椒、 黑 胡 椒、 盐、 茴 香 子、 葡 萄

菜的「特餐」长大的。牠们必须来自意大利

耗时十个日夜。最后的熟成阶段必须至少花

酒、荳蔻和肉桂都可能掺入其中。大部分的

特定的几个区域，并在当地扶养长大而非从

上五个月，让火腿能在亮丽且充满脂肪的粉

Salami 由猪肉混合高质量的脂肪製成。制作

国外进口。

红色外表裡，散发出温和宜人的香味。

完成后，香肠就被置于阴凉而漆黑的地窖中，

「一些盐、一些烟，还有足够的新鲜空 气」－这个由某些家族发展出的独特製作过 程，受到 PGI 的认可与保障。Speck 能够独自

猪的腿部被抹上盐巴，充分搓揉，接着

自然风乾及发酵，有时这个过程必须耗费数

冲水、刷洗、晾乾，并检查是否有缺陷。经过

年时间。

这些严谨的步骤后，才能挂起来进行为期八个

有 12 种 Salami 通过 PDO 或 PGI 的认可，

月到两年的风乾、熟化。风乾的时间长短与周

上桌，切成薄片或块状，抑或取代其他菜餚

包括 cacciatore，一种本是猎人粮食的重口味

遭不同的环境赋予火腿独特的风味，而水分的

中的 pancetta 或熏肉。

小香肠、cacciatori 和内馅中看得见一条条猪

蒸散则使其能在室温下有更长的赏味期。

肉的 soppressata di Calabria，有时红辣椒的

可 口、 富 有 颗 粒 口 感 的 Prosciutto di Parma 是最著名的「改版」，由当地的大型猪

颜色使它更加鲜红。

Salami 在室温下、切成厚片时口感最佳。 可以直接食用、搭配酱汁，或放在馅饼或披 萨上一同享用。

隻製成。那些猪隻的饮食受到严格控管，甚 至食用由 Prosciutto di Parma 起司提炼出来 的乳清。Prosciutto di San Daniele 则来自意 大利和斯洛维尼亚交界的 Friuli，口味温而香

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甜。那些火腿先以海盐揉匀，再一条条地迭 在一块。

presented by the italian trade commission

Speck

Prosciutto Crudo

Salami

The beautiful Alto Adige region of Italy borders the country of Austria, and although both sides of the border produce a pork product called speck, they are quite distinct.

The Austrian version is essentially lard from the belly; the Italian is specially salted, flavored, smoked, and dried meat from the thighs.

Boneless legs are cut into substantial pieces before being seasoned liberally with salt, pepper, juniper, rosemary, and bay.

They are allowed to settle for about a month before the crucial ten-day smoking with flavorful beech, ash, or juniper wood. The final stage is aging for at least five months to develop well-balanced aromas in the distinctive pink, fat-studded interior.

This unique process that follows the homestyle producers’ tradition of “a little salt, a little smoke, and a lot of fresh air” has been protected and accorded PGI certification. Speck can be served by itself, thinly sliced or diced, or used in cooking as a tasty alternative to pancetta or bacon.

Prosciutto, one of the most popular and imitated salumi since Roman times, is simply uncooked ham that has been air-dried – the Italian verb prosciugare means “to dry thoroughly.”

It requires the highest quality pigs fed the right food to deliver optimum flavor.

Prosciutto crudo comes from larger pigs raised on a diet rich in corn and vegetables.

They must be born and bred in specific areas of Italy, never imported.

The legs are rubbed generously with salt before they are hung in a drying and aging process lasting up to two years. The duration and conditions of the drying are what impart the unique flavor profile, and the reduction in moisture content ensures a long shelf life.

Regional varieties include s avory and nutty Prosciutto di Parma, made from large local pigs fed a controlled diet that often includes the whey from ParmigianoReggiano cheese. Prosciutto di San Daniele from Friuli is recognizable by its typical guitar-like shape and the presence of the trotter and has a mild, sweet and aromatic flavor.

Salami is the most famous of all Italian cured meats, with numerous regional and local versions. Salumen was Latin for a mix of salted meats, but salami’s origins predate ancient Rome. There’s no one single salami – it’s a generic term that includes any type of sausage that is encased in skin and then allowed to ferment and air-dry.

Each takes its distinctive tastes from a combination of the texture of the minced meat and the flavorings that are used. They may include garlic, cayenne, black pepper, salt, fennel seeds, wine, mace, and cinnamon.

Most are primarily made from pork blended with high quality pork fat. The sausage is hung and aged in dark, cool cellars to undergo natural fermentation and drying, sometimes for years.

Twelve varieties have certified PDO or PGI status, including cacciatore, a potent little salami originally made for the sustenance of huntsmen, and soppressata di Calabria, with visible chunks of pork and sometimes the addition of hot red pepper.

Presented by the Italian Trade Commission (also find a way to include the 3 logos at the end which were sent earlier, or maybe if we include those logos at the end – Presented by: (3 logos) then we won’t need the “Presented by” as a header.

Salame

Speck

Pancetta

Prosciutto Crudo

presented by the italian trade commission

Mortadella

Bresaola

Prosciutto Cotto

The provenance of this delicacy is ancient, its name probably deriving from murtus , the Latin word for the myrtle berries with which it has traditionally been seasoned. Its most renowned variant originated in Bologna in one of Italy’s great culinary heartlands.

Mortadella is a cylinder of ground, heatcured pork sausage that includes at least 15 percent of its weight in the form of small cubes of hard fat from the throat of the pig.

It gets its mildly spicy taste from myrtle berries, ground and whole black pepper, salt, wine, anise, and pistachios.

To be considered a genuine Mortadella di Bologna, the mixture must have a sevento-three ratio of pork meat to fat, and the distinctive square lardons of fat must be evenly distributed across the sausage.

Regional varieties include those from Prato in Tuscany, fragrant with pounded garlic, and another from north of Rome in Amatrice, with a purplish-red interior and lightly smoked flavor spiced with cinnamon and cloves.

Bresaola is made from seasoned top round, or rear leg, of beef, rather than pork. The most well known version, PGI -certified, comes from the Italian Alps in Lombardy.

The name is taken from the Lombard dialect, bresada , meaning “braised.”

The process involves removing all fat, followed by salting the raw meat and seasoning with pepper, garlic, laurel leaves, juniper berries, cinnamon, and cloves. It is cured for a period of days and then dried for fifteen days, during which the meat loses a substantial part of its original weight.

The result is moist and purplish-red, with a delicate, aromatic and slightly musty flavor. It is often sliced paper-thin and served simply with rocket and parmesan, dressed with olive oil, lemon juice, and black pepper.

With only 2 percent fat, it is high in protein and rich in minerals and omega-3, one of the most nutritious – and uncommonly delicious – of all Italian salumi.

Prosciutto cotto is simply Italian cooked ham, a versatile and delicate ingredient that is used widely across Italian and global kitchens.

Like the crudo variety, this ham is made from only top quality pig legs. They are first deboned and massaged to promote the absorption of flavors, including salt, pepper, bay leaves, and juniper, before being slowly steam-cooked in special molds.

Cotto is high in protein and relatively low in salt and fat. Since no added water or preservatives are used, the pork is able to express its full natural flavor.

Prosciutto cotto adds moistness and tenderness along with sweet notes and an appealing pink hue to much of Italian cuisine, making it an essential component of many panini, antipasti, frittatas, salads, and pasta dishes.

Salame

Bresaola

Prosciutto Cotto

Mortadella

Mortadella

Bresaola

Mortadella 是由 murtus ( 桃金孃 ) 这个拉丁

Bresaola 不 用 猪 肉， 而 是 用 牛 的 内 侧 后 腿

Prosciutto cotto 指的就是烹煮过的意大利火

字来的，在意大利传统中，猪肉常用这种植

肉 製 成， 最 着 名 且 得 到 PGI 认 可 的 是 来 自

腿，细致而多元的特质让它在意大利和世界

物来调味。不管这名字起源为何，mortadella

Lombardy 的 意 大 利 阿 尔 卑 斯 山。 它 得 名 于 Lombardy 的方言 bresada，是「以文火炖煮」

各地的厨房裡都佔有一席之地。

有着相当悠久的历史。它颇负盛名的同类来 自 Emilia-Romagna 的最大城市 Bologna，是

的意思。

只用顶级猪腿肉製成。师傅首先为它们去骨，

意大利美食文明的核心。

製作过程包括去除所有脂肪，接着加入

Mortadella 是 个 圆 柱 体， 塞 满 磨 碎 的、 加热过的猪肉香肠，总重中有至少 15% 是一

盐巴腌制，再用胡椒、大蒜、月桂叶、杜松果、

块块的硬脂肪，取自猪的喉部。肉馅在填进

风乾 15 天，猪肉在过程中会失去许多重量。

以牛皮或猪皮製成的肠衣之前，还加入了桃

肉桂和丁香调味。醃製过程为期四天，接着 成品是湿润而带紫红色的火腿肉，口味

Prosciutto Cotto

就 像 crudo 火 腿 一 样，prosciutto cotto 并加入盐、胡椒、桂叶、杜松充分搓揉以入味， 接着放入特製模子中长时间蒸煮。

Cotto 富含蛋白质，盐和脂肪的含量相对 较少。製作过程不加水或防腐剂，猪肉自然 的风味因此能够完全地表现出来。

金孃、整粒以及磨碎的黑胡椒、盐、葡萄酒、

细嫩、芳香又带点微微霉味。Bresaola 通常

Prosciutto cotto 为许多意大利菜餚加入

大茴香和开心果，增添了独特的微辣口感。

切成如纸般的薄片，伴同芝麻菜和巴马乾酪

了湿润、温和的口感和甜味，也增添了亮丽

一同上桌，搭配橄榄油、柠檬汁和黑胡椒。

的粉红色泽，使它成为意大利三明治 (panini)、

形的脂肪块必须平均分布于整条肉肠。其他

Bresaola 脂肪含量只有 2%，因此富含 蛋白质、矿物质以及 omega-3 脂肪酸，堪称

可或缺的成分。

地区也发明了自己的版本，比方说托斯卡尼

最营养且极其美味的意大利腌肉。

内馅中的猪肉和脂肪必须维持 7 比 3 的 比例，才算得上是道地的 Mortadella，且方

开胃菜、蛋饼 (frittata)、沙拉和通心粉中不

的 Prato 香肠，满溢着蒜泥的香味 ；以及罗马 北方 Amatrice 的香肠，有着紫红色内馅、烟 燻口感以及肉桂和丁香的芬芳。

ODE TO ITALY | TK |

47

tasting notes

顶级腌肉荟萃

Last October, six international publications, including Tasting Kitchen, were presented the Premio Reporter Del Gusto 2014 award at a gala dinner hosted by Instituto Valorizzazione Samuli Italiano, an association of producers of the renowned Italian cured meats. The event took place at Michelin three-star restaurant Da Vittorio in the province of Bergamo. Executive Chef Enrico Cerea rewarded everyone at the gala dinner with a menu that featured salumi in some new and intriguing permutations.

Executive Chef Enrico Cerea

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去年十月，TK与其他五间国际刊物荣 获意大利2014年的年度最佳美食报导奖 （Premio Reporter Del Gusto 2014）， 颁奖典礼的晚宴由意大利腌肉发展协 会（Instituto Valorizzazione Samuli Italiano）所主办，该协会由知名意 大利腌肉製造商所组成。晚宴地点为 意大利贝加莫的米其林三星餐厅 Da Vittorio，行政主厨Enrico Cerea为在场 宾客精心设计以腌肉为料理主轴的菜 单，融入充满创新与惊喜的顺序组合。

Crespelle with Bresaola and Porcini The crespelle, or Italian crepes, are prepared from a traditional recipe of Valtellina, an alpine valley in Lombardy, and contain buckwheat flour, which gives them a mild, earthy flavor. They are filled with bresaola – also from Valtellina – very lean beef that is spiced and salted, then slowly air-dried for months until it develops a sweet, mellow flavor. The creamy sauce contains local porcini mushrooms and taleggio, a soft cheese with a pungent smell and a tangy, fruity flavor. 意式风乾牛肉薄煎饼佐牛肝菌 本料理的意式薄煎饼（或称意大利 的可丽饼）作法来自意大利北部 伦巴第的瓦尔泰利纳，该小镇位于 阿尔卑斯山谷地。这种煎饼採用带 有大地香气的荞麦麵粉，搭配同样 来自瓦尔泰利纳镇的意式风乾牛肉 （bresaola）薄片，肉质极为精瘦， 加入香料以盐巴腌製，经过数月的 风乾后，风味越发甘甜润口，浓稠 的酱料中含有当地出产的牛肝菌与 塔雷吉欧（Taleggio）乳酪，风味 格外强烈，且散发浓浓果香。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Three Star Salumi

feature

Culatello, Tuna, and Figs Called the prince of Italian salumi, Culatello means “little backside” and it’s made from just one muscle of the pig’s hind leg instead of the whole ham as with prosciutto. It is salted, encased in a pig’s bladder, tied, and hung to cure for up to a year, resulting in a taste of uncommon complexity. It is served with a carpaccio of very thinly sliced raw Mediterranean tuna accompanied by local figs.

Culatello 火腿佐鲔鱼无花果 Culatello 火腿素有「意大利腌肉之王」的 ， 称号，意大利文 Culatello 意指「小背部」 只取自猪后臀腿的瘦肉製成，与使用猪隻 全身部位制作的一般腌火腿（prosciutto） 不同。猪肉以盐巴醃渍后，放入猪膀胱袋 中，外层綑绑固定，吊挂风乾一年，成就

Culatello 独特而复杂的风味，搭配切成薄 片的地中海鲔鱼与意大利无花果。

tasting notes

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↑ Alaskan Cod with Mortadella and Plums

→ Petit Fours

Fresh Alaskan cod has been rolled with strips of mortadella, an Italian salume made from ground pork sausage studded with cubes of pork fat. A specialty of Bologna, it is also produced in other regions, including chef Cerea’s home region of Lombardy. It is often flavored with myrtle berries, pepper, wine, anise, and pistachios. The sweetness of the fish is intensified by the spices, and the mortadella’s fat adds satisfying richness. The fruitiness of dried plum aptly complements the pork.

Chef Cerea outdoes himself with an irresistible lineup of small sweet mouthfuls that come straight from the Italian tradition of pastry. He has introduced some novel flavors like “pistachio emerald,” a smooth cream made with the famous nuts from the village of Bronte in Sicily that have an unusually intense green color. He confesses that since childhood his secret passion has always been patisserie, and he never tires of dreaming up new ideas and reinterpreting the classics.

阿拉斯加鳕鱼佐 Mortadella 腊肠腌梅

精巧四喜碟

Mortadella 腊 肠 切 成 条 状， 捲 起 新 鲜 的 阿 拉 斯 加 鳕 鱼， Mortadella 是意大利波隆那的特色腊肠，採用猪绞肉并溷

主厨 Enrico Cerea 取材自意大利的糕点传统，设计数款精

杂猪肥肉丁製成，也可见于其他地区，如主厨的故乡伦巴第，

味十分创新，如「翡翠坚果」使用来自西西里岛布龙泰镇

而 Mortadella 的腌制过程中通常还会加入杨梅、胡椒、葡

的高品质开心果，製成口感柔顺的翡翠色奶油，该区出产

萄酒、大茴香、开心果。各种香料衬托出鳕鱼的甘甜，而

的开心果带有强烈的鲜绿色泽。主厨 Enrico Cerea 说，他

Mortadella 腊肠的肥肉丁让口感更添几分滑顺浓郁，腌梅

自小的秘密梦想就是要当甜点厨师，这些年持续追逐儿时

的果味与猪肉相搭配更是一绝。

梦想，不断构思创新想法并重新诠释经典甜点。

TK | ode to italy

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

致甜点，在长形盘中一字排开，堪称主厨的突破之作，口

interview

意式饮食采购指南

eat, drink, and … buy italian

DAVID HARTUNG

Paola Guida, Trade Commissioner with the Italian Trade Commission Hong Kong, shares an insider’s insights into the Asian markets’ growing appetite for her nation’s food and wine.

“THE COMMISSION has had a presence in Hong Kong since the 1970s, and I’ve been here three years,” says Paola Guida, “but even in that short time I’ve seen such incredible changes. Hong Kong is an attractive place for Italian businesses who want to expand into Asia. There’s no import tax on wine or food, there’s free trade, and it’s English-speaking. These things make it an easy place for Italians to network and begin working in Asia.” Much of Guida’s work is focused on facilitating trade shows, many of which feature the luxury products that Italy has long been known for in Hong Kong and around the world – leather goods, fashion, designer eyewear, and jewelry.

Over the last few years, aided by the Commission’s efforts, more and more Italian food and wine producers are beginning to claim a share of the Hong Kong market.

In the first half of 2014, imports of Italian wines and foods were up by double-digit percentages over the same period the year before. The emphasis has been on Italy’s luxury items, such as high-end wines, premium olive oil, Prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar, and truffles. “Here the only kind of vinegar is balsamic and you can

find everything truffled! In Italy there isn’t such an addiction to truffles, so it’s quite surprising.”

Guida is working hard to let Hong Kong know that Italy has much more to offer. “I’m not here to be a trendsetter,” she says, “but rather to educate people, and I want to help consumers and distributors see what’s out there. We have such a huge range of beautiful rustic produce in Italy. I want to open people’s minds to possibilities, to help them think beyond the truffle. And our products have such versatility. You don’t have to drink Italian wine only with Italian food – it can also pair very well with Asian cuisine.

Dumplings are so delicate that probably you should have white wine, and Sichuan should be paired with the strong Italian reds because it’s spicy and you need a wine that can match it.”

She understands how daunting the vast range of regional Italian wines may seem to prospective distributors. But the figures show that many buyers are taking advantage of what she sees as a major selling point.

“Our wines offer very high quality at very reasonable prices,” says Guida, “and the Hong Kong market is thriving.”

Paola Guida 女士表示 ： 「意大利对外贸易委 员会从 1970 年代便在香港设置办公室，我 在这里服务三年，虽然时间并不长，但却 亲眼见证惊人的改变。对于想要在亚洲拓 展的意大利商人来说，香港是个非常吸引 人的市场，因为香港对于食品与酒类不课 徵免进口关税，施行自由贸易，且以英语 为主要语言，没有语言障碍，所以意大利 商人要在香港经营人脉、进行贸易非常容 易。」Paola Guida 的主要业务是办理贸易 展，展出许多意大利闻名全球的奢华精品， 如皮革制品、时尚精品、设计师品牌眼镜、 珠宝等。 由于该委员会过去数年来努力不懈， 现在有越来越多的意大利食品与葡萄酒製 造商已经在香港市场取得立足之地。2014 上半年，香港的意大利葡萄酒与食品进口 数量，与前一年同期相比，出现两位数的 增长，其中以奢侈商品占多数，包含顶级 葡萄酒、橄榄油、知名帕尔玛火腿、红酒醋、 松 露 等 等，Paola Guida 表 示 ： 「这里面唯 一的醋类商品就是红酒醋，而且几乎每样 食品都含有松露！意大利人还没对松露着 迷成这样，实在让人很惊讶。」 Paola Guida 致力为香港带来更多意大 利的贸易商机，她指出 ： 「我在这里的任务 并非引导潮流，而是扮演教育者的角色， 帮助消费者和经销商找到更多贸易商机。 意大利还盛产许多新鲜蔬果，我希望能开 拓消费者的视野，接受更多可能性，不只 局限于松露，而且我们的产品搭配性强， 喝意大利葡萄酒不一定非得搭配意大利料 理，配上亚洲料理也美味无比。」 Paola Guida 知道，意大利各区出产的 葡萄酒种类繁多，可能会让经销商望之却 步，但是她认为意大利葡萄酒具备销售优 势，而数据显示许多买家也看到这些卖点， Paola Guida 表示： 「我们的葡萄酒品质极高， 价格又非常实惠，在香港的市场需求十分 畅旺。」 ode to italy

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TK |

53

movers & shakers

美味历久弥坚

staying power Gaia Group Director and Restaurateur Pino Piano shares his secrets for longevity in Hong Kong’s capricious restaurant market. § Gaia 集团在瞬息万

变的香港餐饮市场屹立不摇，集团董事 Pino Piona透露成功秘诀。

开在上环的第一间意大利餐厅「Gaia」营 运至今 13 年，依旧生意兴隆，是什么因素 让你有信心去开展这项事业？ 2001 年「Gaia」开张时市场相当开放， 也有切入的利基。当时的香港除了酒店外 ,， 就异国料理方面仅有八间大餐厅可供选择， 因此开设「Gaia」还不算风险太大的决定。 换成今天可能就不一样了，每天都有好多 餐厅冒出来！「Gaia」所在区域在 13 年前 几乎什麽都没有，只是个鸡蛋零售市场， 根本看不到半间餐厅，但时至今日，一切 都不同了！ 如何让「Gaia」声名不坠？ 努力工作就对了！每周七天，天天从 中午做到半夜 2 点。「Gaia」已经是重要的 社交聚会场合之一，无论过去或是现在， 市场上都还有其他的意大利餐厅，我们一 定要保持自身的竞争力。

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How did you make Gaia a success?

Hard work! We were open seven days a week, noon until 2 a.m. It became a social meeting place. There were other Italian restaurants, as there are now, so we had to stay competitive.

How has the group grown over the last decade?

We opened Isola and Joia in Hong Kong, and we’ve expanded into mainland China. We now have Isola Beijing and Isola Shanghai, then Gaia 2 and Va Bene, also in Shanghai.

We’ve branched out into more casual dining here in Hong Kong with our Bene brand, and we’ve moved beyond Italian cuisine with a

身为企业经营人，随集团规模扩大面临的 挑战也愈加不同，这些年来您扮演的角色 有什麽改变？ 挑战或许会随成长而改变，但工作量 可不会变少！我想秘诀没别的，就是要有 强大的后勤及行销团队作为后援，很幸运 的是，我们拥有让人称羡的黄金团队！社 群媒体近年的重要性不言可喻，正好是由 集团才华洋溢的行销团队操刀。简言之， 身边一定要找最好的人，一切都要详实规 划、滴水不漏。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The first restaurant that you opened – Gaia – was a trendy trattoria in Sheung Wan, and it’s still going strong after thirteen years. What gave you the confidence to start what has now become a major restaurant group?

When we opened Gaia in 2001 the market was fairly wide open and there was room for us. Besides the hotels there were only eight big restaurants. So opening Gaia did not feel like a huge risk. I would think twice about starting the group today, as there are so many places opening all the time! Back then there was nothing where Gaia is today.

This area of Sheung Wan was an egg market.

There were no restaurants, and now look!

能否说明一下集团这十年的成长轨迹？ 在香港，另外两个品牌餐厅「意索娜 (Isola)」及「Joia」陆续开张，随后也将触 角延伸到中国大陆，有「意索娜北京」及「意 索娜上海」，同时在上海也打造了「Gaia 2」 及「Va Bene」 两 家 时 尚 餐 厅。 在 香 港 用 「Bene」系列餐厅主打较为轻松的用餐空间。 我们也不局限于意大利菜风格，因而开设 了西班牙餐厅「Zelo」及供应中西风格融 合料理的「Glasshouse」；现在还引进泰国 品 牌「Greyhound Café」 到 香 港。 回 顾 这 十年，集团多元经营，确确实实成长茁壮了。

Pino Piano ↖ Risotto with Saffron 藏红花意大利饭

ODE TO ITALY | TK |

55

movers & shakers

Spanish restaurant, Zelo, and Glasshouse – Asian dining with a Western twist. And we’re now bringing the Greyhound Café Thai brand to Hong Kong. So yes, we have definitely expanded and diversified.

The type of challenges an entrepreneur faces tend to evolve as a business grows. How has your role changed over the years?

The challenges change as you grow, but the amount of work doesn’t! The secret is to have a really good back office and marketing team to support you, and luckily enough, we do! Our marketing team also manages our social media, an area that’s becoming more important all the time, and they’re very talented. In short, you need to surround yourself with good people and be really super-organized.

Tell me about expanding into China.

Our Chinese partners really did all the hard work. Paolo and I went there when everything was initially organized. All our managers and chefs are Italian and we make sure we keep the food authentic. There are challenges, of course, but we take them in our stride. We both travel to China regularly.

What would you say is the key to the Gaia Group’s longevity?

It’s a combination of things. The main one is service. We insist on impeccable service and the motto, “The customer is always right.” We never say “no” – that’s just how I was raised. We need to keep a constant check on our service to make sure that standards are maintained, and that’s hard work – but hard work is what has got us this far.

And we always keep innovating.

Top quality service always comes down to the front-line staff. How do you retain your talent?

Everyone wants security. People who

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Scallops with Asparagus 扇贝伴芦笋

come to work for us know we’ve been here a long time, so they can look forward to a long career. We also pay our staff well.

They’re trained to really engage with our guests, to guide diners through the menu and help them make choices they’ll enjoy – and come back! We have really excellent staff – front of house, back of house,

back office. You definitely need good people around you.

You’ve worked hand in hand with Executive Chef Paolo Monti since you launched Gaia together. How has your partnership contributed to the group’s success?

Paolo is very talented but also very

和我们说明一下中国的拓展计画。 要谢谢中国的伙伴，困难的地方他们 全包了。在 Paolo 和我过去商讨的时候，大 致架构都已初步完成。不过所有经理人和 厨师都是意大利人，我们再三确认要忠实 呈现食物的真实原味。说没有挑战是骗人 的，但我们化阻力为助力，一有空就常到 中国巡视。 Gaia 集团屹立不摇的秘诀为何？ 要归功好几个因素，最主要的就是服 务。在「Gaia」，服务品质不容丝毫妥协， 奉「顾客永远是对的」这句话为圭臬。我 们从不说「不」，这也是我从小到大学到 的信念。一定要时常确认服务是否达标， 才能维持最佳品质，做起来可不轻松－但 正是如此苦干实干我们才有今天。另外， 「Gaia」也时时不断创新。

DAVID HARTUNG

要有高品质服务，第一线人员角色非常关 键。「Gaia」如何留住好的人才？ 大 家 都 想 有 安 定 感， 首 先 来「Gaia」 工作的人知道我们在市场的历史，长期工 作展望绝对没有问题，说到员工薪水我们 也绝不小气。员工均接受良好训练，与客 人互动良好，引导他们点餐、挑选适合的 餐点、享受美味，而且一来再来！我们员 工真的很棒、前台、后台及后勤团队都无 可挑剔。找很棒的人才过来就对了。

humble. He believes that the success of Gaia is mainly due to the perennial appeal of Italian cuisine. In a town in thrall to gastronomic trends, Italian food remains comforting – you never get tired of it. With some other cuisines, you get bored if you have them too often. Paolo also believes that the success of any restaurant is due to the

customers. You have to give them what they want. If you don’t make what they want to eat, then they simply won’t come back. He keeps the menu at Gaia authentically Italian, but adds new dishes to keep things current.

So whether you want a culinary adventure or simply the most delicious comfort food, we can provide it.

「Gaia」成立之初您就和行政总厨 Paolo Monti 携手并进，你们之间的合作默契与 集团成功有何关系？ Paolo 才华出众，为人却很谦虚，把餐 厅长年备受好评的原因归功于意大利菜恒久 不衰的吸引力。在不同美食潮流层出不穷的 香港，意大利菜总能令人身心舒爽，永远吃 不腻。相较之下，有些菜太常吃的话不免觉 得无聊。Paolo 也深信，顾客是任何餐厅能 够成功的重要因素，要给他们想要的。无法 创造让顾客想吃的欲望，当然就失去让他们 再次光顾的机会。 「Gaia」的菜单保留原汁 原味的意式风味之外，也有跟得上潮流的创 意料理。想要味蕾来场大冒险，或只想单纯 享用吃起来舒畅美味的美食，来我们餐厅即 可两种愿望一次满足。 ode to italy

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Chef Paolo Monti

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recipe I HAVE A STRONG culinary background in my DNA – my mother and grandmother were

both wonderful cooks, and my father’s family were farmers on an island near Capri, harvesting their own olives and vegetables and making wine. We actually have a wine on our list at Gaia which comes from a mountain near my grandfather’s home.

Before I came to Hong Kong I worked in America, where I learned how Italian food is cooked abroad. There were quite a lot of restrictions on what ingredients you could import, so I learned how to create a true Italian taste working with the ingredients I had – good seasonal local produce, but no Italian salami or ham. Those years in America taught me about the authenticity of taste.

I like traditional dishes, but I also like to offer my guests new things, so this carpaccio is made in a slightly different way. I used to present it very simply – just meat, mustard, and mayonnaise. Now I have a special dressing for the frisée and chicory salad. It’s made with a pasteurized egg yolk, which is then marinated in salt and sugar to dry it out a little and intensify the flavor. Then I add some black truffle “caviar” and a little shaved white truffle, because egg and truffle work so well together. I think the flavor combinations in this dish are really good.

The secret to authenticity is to recognize which elements you can and can’t change in a dish. I don’t have time for “trendy” items on my menu – I want people to taste the true Italian flavors, but there also has to be something a little different to keep it interesting. 我的血液中蕴藏强大的烹饪 DNA，父亲家族 世代于邻近卡布里的小岛上务农，栽种橄榄 与各式蔬菜，并自己酿酒。 「Gaia」酒单上有 支酒就是在祖父家附近山丘上所酿造出产。 来香港之前我在美国工作，对于意大利 菜有深入的了解。当时对于食材进口有诸多 限制，但也让我练就一身发扬道地意大菜美 味的功夫，即使没有来自意大利的腊肠或火 腿，也要运用手头上的食材，创造最好的滋味。 我热爱传统料理，同时也想让顾客品嚐 全新的创意，所以这道生牛肉和传统作法有 点不同。以前我禀持简单至上， 摆盘只有生肉、 芥末和美乃滋，但现在绿捲鬚生菜和菊苣沙 拉上还会淋上特制酱料，是用蛋黄高温杀菌 后加入盐及糖，稍微收乾以增加风味，再放

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

一些黑松露鱼子酱及些许白松露削片，蛋和 松露味道搭配的恰到好处，作为这道菜的酱 料再适合不过，融合后的风味好极了。 我不会为了赶流行去做一些新菜，而是 希望让顾客品嚐到意大利菜最道地的滋味。 当然也会放进不同的元素，增添新意及趣味。

BEEF CARPACCIO with EGG YOLK SALAD and TRUFFLE CAVIAR

顶级生牛肉 佐黄金沙拉 与松露鱼子酱

70 g beef tenderloin (no fat or silverskin),

thinly sliced and pounded 15 g frisée 15 g chicory tips (Roman puntarelle), soaked in water overnight 15 g rocket leaves 15 g black truffle caviar 5 g shaved white truffle

Extra virgin olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

1 egg

70克 牛柳，除去油脂与筋膜，切成薄片后以 肉锤敲打 15克 绿捲鬚生菜 15克 菊苣尖叶（罗马菊苣），在水中浸泡一 夜 15克 芝麻菜1 15克 黑松露鱼子酱 5克 白松露削片

初榨橄榄油

半颗柠檬榨汁 一只 鸡蛋

 Pasteurize the whole egg in water at 65°C for 4-5 minutes. When cool, put just the yolk in a small bowl and cover it with equal parts salt and sugar for two hours to remove some of the water and make it thick and creamy.

 将 蛋 置 于 摄 氏 6 5 度 的 水 中 烹 煮 4-5分 钟 ， 以 达 杀 菌 效 果 ， 冷 却 后，取出蛋黄放在小碗中，以等 量盐与糖复盖于上，静置2小时， 以除去多馀水分，使蛋黄呈现浓 稠乳状。

 To assemble the dish, arrange the rocket leaves on a plate and top with the beef.

Toss the rest of the greens in a bowl with 5 g of the egg yolk and arrange them on the beef. Mix three parts lemon juice to seven parts olive oil, drizzle over all, and garnish with the truffle caviar. Finally, shave a little white truffle on top. Buon appetito!

 摆盘时，将牛肉放在芝麻叶上，接 着将其馀食材倒进碗中，加入5克 蛋黄溷合搅拌，溷合完成后置于牛 肉上，将柠檬汁与橄榄油以3:7的 比例溷合后，淋在所有食材上，并 以松露鱼子酱作点缀，最后再加上 些许白松露削片增加香气，便能享 用这道美味爽口的料理。 ode to italy

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tasting notes

梦想进行时

dreams in the making The young chef de cuisine at one of Hong Kong’s celebrated Italian restaurants knows just what he wants.

AT AGE 25, Chef Alessandro Cozzolino, who Within weeks of coming onboard he’d comes from Italy’s Campania region, already secured around thirty new products, with has ten years experience on his resume, the aim of featuring certain artisan-made including posts at a number of prestigious ingredients exclusively at Grissini.

One ingredient the chef favors is buffalo restaurants in Italy, three with Michelin stars.

He exudes enthusiasm, one of the reasons milk for butter, ricotta, and mozzarella. “I that Marcus Mathyssek, Executive Chef at think it makes a subtle but significant difGrand Hyatt Hong Kong, named ference,” says Cozzolino. “For him last November as the new example, in a classic risotto bufBY falo butter adds sweet notes that Chef de Cuisine of the hotel’s preVICKI WILLIAMS mier Italian restaurant, Grissini. can’t be achieved with regular “I’m excited to have him butter.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY onboard,” says Mathyssek. “He Cozzolino doesn’t really DAVID HARTUNG has the culinary skills, a solid believe in signature dishes, but foundation, and knowledge – of he’s introduced a number of new course he is young and maturity will come. offerings at Grissini that showcase his perHe has remarkable confidence, and he’s very sonal style, which he describes as modern passionate, particularly about produce. He Italian with a respect for tradition. knows quality, he knows suppliers, and he His plating is decidedly modern – the knows what he wants.” chef says he wants to seduce guests by disCozzolino is anxious to make his mark: playing his passion and emotion on the plate, “I’m very ambitious, I have big dreams as reflecting each dish’s texture and flavor harmonies in its striking good looks. a chef and I hope to realize many of them here at Grissini.”

“Every plate reveals my style, which is

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↖ Mediterranean Turbot, Beetroot, Cooked Grapes Must, Celeriac Version Risotto 地中海多宝鱼、红菜头、煮葡 萄汁、根芹菜意大利饭 ↑ Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Executive Chef Marcus Mathyssek and Chef de Cuisine of Grissini Alessandro Cozzolino 香港君悦酒店行政总厨 Marcus Mathyssek 和 Grissini 餐厅主厨 Alessandro Cozzolino

主厨 Alessandro Cozzolino 来自意大利坎帕尼 亚 (Campania) 地 区， 年 仅 25 岁 却 已 有 10 年烹饪资历，曾于意大利多个斐声国际的餐 厅历练，其中三间更是有米其林星级评定。 Cozzolino 充满热诚及活力，正是香港 君悦酒店行政总厨 Marcus Mathyssek 提拔 他的主要原因，从去年 11 月起便以新任主 厨之姿坐镇顶级意大利餐厅「Grissini」 。 Mathyssek 语带兴奋表示 ： 「能够招揽 到 Cozzolino 真 的 很 棒， 烹 饪 技 巧 无 话 可 说，底子非常扎实，也有料理应具备的知 识，当然年纪还很轻，不过一定会愈趋成熟。 他对自己的菜很有信心，特别对于农产食 材也展现很大的热情。他了解品质的重要、 对于供应商知之甚详，知道自己要什麽。」 Cozzolino 成名一路上亦步亦趋，他说：

「我有雄心壮志，身为厨师我有远大的梦想， 希望可以在 Grissini 一一完成。」 升 任 主 厨 短 短 数 周，Cozzolino 便 已 研发出近 30 道新菜，主打专为「Grissini」 手工制作的食材。 其 中 主 厨 对 于 水 牛 乳 制 成 的 奶 油、 ricotta 及 mozzarella 起司情有独锺，他解释： 「差别很细腻，但吃起来大有不同，像是水 牛奶油在传统炖饭中增添的甜味就非一般 奶油所能比拟。」 Cozzolino 并不特别相信招牌菜这一套， 但为「Grissini」特制的多道新菜均充满浓 浓的个人风格，他形容为这是尊重传统的 现代意大利菜。 光看摆盘绝对是百分百的现代风格， 主厨强调，要藉由餐盘表达热诚及情感，

才能吸引客人。每道菜的质感及口味完美 融合，透过无懈可击的摆盘流泄而出。 主厨形容 ： 「每道菜都是我的风格，以 食材为依归。风格随季节更迭有所变化， 但吃进嘴里的都是当季我最推崇的美味食 材。」虽然主打当季，但 Cozzolino 也坦承， 每道菜都经过精密计算，花时间打造、研 发并精修而成。 这个过程在两位主厨亦师亦友的合作 关 系 中 也 可 略 窥 一 二。Mathyssek 说 明 ： 「Cozzolino 研发新菜单时我从不缺席，从 旁观察给予许多意见。同时也想让新菜保 留他的个人风格，当然最后决定权还是在 他自己手上。」 其中炙烤地中海带子佐花椰奶酱、香 草豆、杏仁及葡萄柚这道新料理，是由两 ode to italy

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tasting notes

Mediterranean Scallops, Cauliflower, Vanilla, Almonds and Green Apple 地中海带子、椰菜花、云厘拿、杏仁及青苹果

produce driven,” he says. “It changes with the seasons, but also highlights those ingredients I’m most passionate about at the moment.” He speaks of the moment, but confesses that each dish is the result of a studied process of creation, development, and refining.

This is seen in the collaborative, mentoring relationship between the two chefs.

“I closely monitor development of the new menu items, and I’ve given Alessandro a lot of suggestions,” explains Mathyssek. “At the same time, I want to keep his personality in the dishes, so final decisions are always his.”

New on the menu is Grilled Scallops, Cauliflower Cream, Vanilla Beans, Almonds, and Grapefruit. Mathyssek and Cozzolino had a lengthy discussion about this dish.

Mathyssek felt the vanilla might not harmonize, nor perhaps the grapefruit. The vanilla was subtly retained, but the grapefruit was initially exchanged for rounds of tart green apple. It worked, but the young chef later

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decided to follow his instinct and serve it with grapefruit.

New dishes will be introduced slowly, Mathyssek says, and guest response will play a key role. “If guests are excited, it stays, if not, we work on it a bit more.”

Other dishes that have met both chefs’ approval include Homemade Tortelli “Genovese” style, Fresh Buffalo Ricotta Cheese, Italian Beer; as well as Grilled Turbot Fillet, Beetroot Sauce, Celeriac “Risotto” Style.

Indispensable classics such as traditional Eggplant Parmigiana and Osso Buco from an authentic Milanese recipe, served with saffron risotto, also remain on the menu.

One aim Cozzolino keeps in his sights is maintaining Grissini’s long pedigree among the top tier of Italian restaurants in Hong Kong. “The other dream I have for Grissini is a secret – if it happens, it will happen towards the end of next year.”

Judging by the faraway look and sly smile that cross his face when he speaks of it, those twinkling lights in his eyes may be stars.

人讨论再三才拍板定案。Mathyssek 认为香 草或葡萄柚可能味道不好调和，前者先保 留，但葡萄柚则以数片青苹果塔替代，味 道没问题，但年轻主厨最后决定顺从本心， 仍以葡萄柚上阵。 Mathyssek 表示，新菜不急着一次上齐， 会慢慢来，看客人的反应如何。「客人反应 好就可以留下，不好的话我们就再调整。」 其他已获双主厨首肯的新菜还包括 Genovese 风格的自家制意大利馄饨、新鲜 水牛 Ricotta 起司、意大利啤酒，以及烤多 宝鱼、甜菜根酱及意式炖饭风格煮块根芹。 另有多道传统大菜当然也不缺席，像 是 焗 烤千层茄子及遵循古法制作的米兰名 菜炖牛膝搭配番红花意式炖饭，同样美味 上菜。 Cozzolino 的目标之一便是让「Grissini」 继续维持优良传统，保有香港第一流意式 餐厅的竞争力。说完之后主厨卖了个关子 ： 「另一个梦想我还不能说，要的话，最快可 能明年底可以实现。」 主厨边说边望向远方、脸上出现慧黠 的微笑，如此看来，他坚定的眼神闪闪发光， 一如闪耀的明星。

Soft Potato Gnocchi, Smoked Buffalo Provola Cheese, Black Piglet Guanciale from Caserta 软薯仔团、烟熏水牛芝士及 卡塞塔风干猪面颊肉

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photo essay

好戏上场

center stage Carbone, a theatrical ode to midcentury Italian-American food, never has to worry about overplaying its role.

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Every evening on the ninth floor of the Lan Kwai Fong tower in Central, etched glass doors swing open on 1958 New York. Waiters in tuxes maneuver clattering carts between tables, turning their heads to exchange wisecracks with the clientele.

Sinatra croons lushly in the background. Flames leap as waiters flambé at tableside.

The restaurant is the newest member of a family that started with the famous original Carbone in New York’s Greenwich Village, founded

by Chef Mario Carbone. Now Major Restaurant Group has teamed with Hong Kong’s Black Sheep Restaurant group to present the high drama of retro New York Italian dining in Hong Kong. 中环兰桂坊大楼九楼每天入夜后，推开仿旧玻璃木 服务生身着晚礼服， 门扉， 仿若进入 1958 年的纽约， 驾轻路熟的推着餐车穿梭各桌，不时转头和客人说 笑，轻鬆不失慧黠。衬底音乐放着法兰克辛纳屈老 歌，悠扬乐音伴着服务生行经桌边明灭的灯火，充 满浓浓旧时代氛围。 餐厅隶属发迹纽约东村的「Carbone」家族， 创始者正是鼎鼎大名的 Mario Carbone 主厨，旗 下 的「Major」 餐 厅 集 团 与 香 港「Black Sheep

Restaurant」集团合作，在香港打造復古纽约意式 餐饮，保证是不容错过的美味戏码。

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photo essay

Eating at Carbone is meant to be pure theater from start to finish. The show opens with an effusive welcome at the door from maître d’Hotel Jack Gonsalves and hostess Chelsea, a sleek presence in a black sheath.

The dim and intimate bar is a perfect setting for lounging with a Whisky Sour or Manhattan before dinner. Cocktails are deftly mixed and poured by bartender Dickson Wong, suave and collected in a white dinner jacket.

In the dining room the glamour of the 50s is revisited with expertly executed old school service, starring “captains” who prepare dishes tableside with a flourish before diners’ eyes. Captain Charlie Mir makes Carbone’s glorified quotation of traditional Caesar salad, using Little Gem lettuce, ricotta salata, and brioche croutons. Carbone’s captains look like the cast from a Tarantino film in their plum tuxedos by Zac Posen. “When I leave work and walk down the street, it’s like leaving a time capsule – people see the suit and call out to me ‘Hey, Carbone!’” says Mir. 在「Carbone」用餐像去剧院一般，从头到尾都让人过足戏瘾。首先由餐厅 总经理 Jack Gonsalves 及黑色洋装、一身俐落的接待员 Chelsea 揭开序幕， 一进门便受到殷勤接待。微暗的吧台毫无距离感，晚餐前窝在台前来杯鸡尾 酒，威士忌酸酒或曼哈顿再适合不过。调酒师 Dickson Wong 穿着合身的白 色晚宴服，一派绅士风度，调酒技巧熟练，不旋肿便将美酒倒进客人杯中。 戏称「部长」的服务生在客人面前备餐， 用餐区再现 50 年代的优雅风华， 搭配华丽手势，绝对是原汁原味「旧学派」 。传统的凯萨沙拉在部长 Charlie

Mir 手 中 变 身 多 姿 多 彩 的「Carbone」 特 别 版， 混 用 小 宝 石 莴 苣、ricotta salata 起司及 brioche croutons 麵包块等食材。部长们个个身着 Zac Posen 的紫红晚礼服，活脱脱昆丁塔伦提诺的电影走出来一般，復古英挺。Mir 形 容： 「下班走到街上时，彷彿有种离开时空胶囊的感觉，一身西装辨识度极高， 』 。 」 别人一看到我就叫说『Carbone 来的吧！ ode to italy

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photo essay

协助开设香港店的创办人表兄弟 Louie Carbone 也 「Mir 的应对及态度即使到纽约也绝 附和 Mir 的话 ： 对如鱼得水－反应快又风趣， 开玩笑分寸拿捏得宜。 」 这种应对能力正是「Carbone」找人的一大标准。 「酒懂得不多没关係，我可以教，但服务的热情可是 谁都教不来的。 」 「Carbone」像经纪人一样，让员 工学习随机应变， 因应客人的心情适时调整。 他强调： 「每天晚上都不同－和即兴演奏专场有点像。人饿的 时候就会开冰箱找食物 ；上好的馆子，当然就想享 受全套的体验。 」 所谓全套服务包括怀旧美食飨宴，其中当然不 乏满满的「Carbone」惊喜。部长 Allan Lloyd 俐落的 切着招牌菜之一 Veal Parmesan 起司牛，大块带骨 牛肉原产自荷兰，搭配 mozzarella di bufala 起司及 新泽西州空运新鲜蕃茄製成的酱汁，令人食指大动。 餐后的兰姆酒餐车也是一大亮点，满载至少九 「兰姆酒及雪茄 种顶级品牌。部长 Roy Chui 表示 ： 都是 Mario Carbone 的最爱。用兰姆酒为套餐划下 句点再好不过，这裡选择之丰富，甚至超过纽约－ 连哈瓦那兰姆都能供君品嚐。 」

Louie Carbone, who is cousin to the founder and helped launch Carbone Hong Kong, says of Mir, “He could fit into New York with the attitude he has – he’s quick-witted and banters very well.”

That ability is a requisite when Carbone is hiring.

“I don’t ask people about their wine knowledge – I can teach that. I can’t teach passion.” Like a casting agent, Carbone vets staff for their talents to play it by ear and play off the customers’ moods. “Every night is different – it’s a jam session,” he says. “When you’re hungry, you open the refrigerator door, when you go out to a nice restaurant, you go there for the full experience.”

The full experience includes nostalgic culinary recreations, but always with a generous twist of Carbone style. Captain Allan Lloyd slices the Veal Parmesan, hefty chops from Holland served on the bone, with mozzarella di bufala and sauce made from tomatoes flown in fresh from New Jersey.

Another essential is the after-dinner rum cart that stocks at least nine premium labels.

“Rum and cigars are passions of Mario Carbone,” says Captain Roy Chui. “Rum is a great way to finish, and the choice here is even better than in New York – we’re able to feature Havana rum.”

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Off-Broadway actor Keith Macharia, who moved from New York to be part of Carbone HK’s opening team, knows how to perform Bananas Flambé with the showmanship it calls for. Carbone’s riff on Bananas Foster is made with amaretto ice cream and baby fruit. “I don’t always know how the flame is going to turn out and it even surprises me,” says Macharia. “When guests see that on my face, they’re really in the moment. We’re all like the cast in a production, and once the cast understands the story and trusts each other, they’re able to feed off each other’s energy in a way that’s just magical.”

外百老汇演员 Keith Macharia 特地从纽约移居香港，为 香港店创立团队的重要成员之一。说到甜点 Bananas

Flambé 火焰香蕉所需的表演元素，他是最清楚不过 的。 「Carbone」的甜点大戏 Bananas Foster 大量使用 「其 amaretto 冰淇淋及小口的鲜嫩水果， Macharia 说明： 实我也不知道火焰最后会怎样，有时自己都会吓一跳。 看到我的表情，客人当下也会非常入戏，和我一样都成 为这齣戏的演员，只要了解故事梗概，彼此信任，感受 到彼此间交流的能量，创造出的效果让人大呼神奇。 」

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美味冬尝

A Taste of Winter

Italy’s winter fruits and vegetables, storehouses of Mediterranean sunshine, warm and brighten the season’s drabbest days.

BY CHRIS DWYER

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

STOCKY AND BROAD-SHOULDERED, with reddish hair and fair skin, Giandomenico “Gianni” Caprioli, proprietor and chef of his eponymous Giando Restaurant in Hong Kong, looks more Celtic than Calabrian, but his accent, comportment, and charisma are indisputably Italian.

As he describes it with fondness, his childhood was idyllic: life on a small farm, with zucchini and broccoli, olive oil and rabbits always just a few steps away. “I grew up knowing the importance of the best ingredients. My family would never buy any fruit or vegetables – we knew what was good and we grew it ourselves.”

Gianni’s commercial sense developed early as well. To earn a few extra lire he sold the farm’s surplus produce at local markets. “I always found a way to be independent. I never asked my family for money – I knew when our figs were at their best!”

His innate knowledge of produce landed him his first professional role in the kitchen as garde

manger , overseeing the produce and ensuring it was used at its prime. Like many top chefs, his life ever since has been peripatetic, finding adventure and winning positions at Michelin-starred restaurants and five-star hotels in Mexico and New York, London and Tokyo, Dubai and Los Angeles. For a number of years he served as personal head chef to Italian billionaire and automotive legend Gianni Agnelli.

Gianni leads us on a tour of the produce he knows so well from his childhood, celebrating the best of Italian winter fruit and vegetables and showing off a number of special dishes that let them shine like the Italian sun. 香港「Giando」餐厅创办人兼主厨 Giandomenico “Gianni” Caprioli 有着健壮结实的身材、搭配宽阔肩 膀、泛红头髮及白皙肤色，乍看不像出身南意卡拉布里亚，倒给人塞尔提克人的错觉，如若仔细听一 下口音、再结合浑身散发的个人特质，绝对是意大利人没错。

Gianni 小时候充满不少回忆，趣味横生，在小农舍居住，旁边种植着栉瓜、花椰菜和橄榄，还有 「从小我就知道好的食材有多重要，水果也好、蔬菜也好从不用买的，品 蹦跳的野兔。Gianni 回想 ： 质不好的我们不吃，所以都自己种。 」

Gianni 就很有生意头脑，年纪轻轻就知道把生产过剩的自家农产拿到市集卖赚点零花。他强调 ： 「我想独立，从不向家裡伸手要钱，连农场无花果哪时最好吃我都了如指掌。 」

Gianni 凭借对农产天生的知识及了解，很快找到人生中的第一份工作，掌管冷盘厨房区，每项 产品都要经过他的筛选检验，处于最佳状态才能使用。他的往后发展如同许多顶级大厨一般，展开四 处游历的生活，寻求挑战冒险、征战墨西哥、纽约、伦敦、东京、杜拜及洛杉矶等地的米其林和五星 酒店一展手艺； 杰出手艺后来也获意大利汽车业传奇钜子 Gianni Agnelli 青睐，延揽担任个人厨师多年。 在 Gianni 带领下，我们得以一览他自孩提时代即如数家珍的各式农产。主厨运用万中选一的意 大利冬季蔬果精心烹调多道特别料理，极致美味有如意大利骄阳一般耀眼。

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Bietola Rossa Red Chard Leaves 红甜菜

CHARD, which is of the same species as beets, has been bred to be among the most highly nutritious of leafy vegetables.

Frequently employed in Mediterranean cooking, the first varieties had their origins in Sicily, but the crop is now grown widely across all of Italy. Chard is a prolific biennial plant that can produce three or more harvests a year.

Although it is one of the hardier leafy greens, chard will spoil if it comes into contact with water before storage. Shoppers should look for leaves that are a vivid green and stalks that are crisp and unblemished. As for preparation, Gianni explains: “We mix these beautiful leaves in our salads and also prepare them as a side dish to accompany a pork chop, steaming them and combining them with cavolo nero, dark-leafed kale. They can add color too – depending on the iron content, they sometimes turn blue during cooking.” 红甜菜和甜菜根系出同门，属同种叶菜类植物， 营养价值之高在同类蔬菜中名列前茅。红甜菜为 地中海料理常见食材之一，首批甜菜种先于西 西里地区栽种，现在意大利各地均可看到它 的踪影。红甜菜为生产力旺盛的二年生植物， 一年採收 3 至 4 次不成问题。 红甜菜虽然相当吃苦耐劳，但储放 前若碰水很容易腐烂。采购时挑选菜叶 呈鲜绿色泽及叶茎直脆无折损痕迹的品 质较佳。谈到红甜菜的用途， Gianni 表示： 「这种蔬菜加进沙拉非常赏心悦目，也可 经过蒸与暗色羽衣甘蓝 cavolo nero 拌在 一起，就是猪排的美味配菜。红甜菜也可 作为增色之用，效果依内含铁质量不同而 发生变化，有时烹煮时会变为蓝色。 」

Pomodorini Cherry Tomatoes 樱桃蕃茄

P O M O D O R I N I need no introduction and are now harvested year round all over the world. Gianni notes that both Merinda and Pendolino are essential among the “six or seven Italian varieties” he always has on hand. “We also use cherry tomatoes from Sicily or Lazio, depending on the season,” he says.

Like any produce, these tiny tomatoes can vary greatly from one year to the next. “One of my favorites is Merinda,” says Gianni, “and I always try to follow the season, because it’s like Pinot Noir – it needs very cold nights and warm sunny days, and then it becomes crispy like a peach.”

Pendolino are sold while still on the vine and were traditionally hung to dry naturally for use later in the year, often in making tomato purée.

Gianni finds them versatile: “We use Pendolino in stocks, salads and sauces.”

Pomodorini 名气之大已无须赘言，全年盛产，产地遍及全球各地，但 Gianni 仍热情介绍手中的 Merinda 及 Pendolino，称之为意大利 6 或 7 个地方种中 的中流砥柱。 「视季节不同，我们也会使用西西里或拉齊奧来的樱桃蕃茄。 」 不过这些身形娇小的蕃茄就像其他作物一样，每年收成品质有所不同。 「每一季我都密切追踪，就 Merinda 是主厨锺爱的品种之一，Gianni 强调 ： 像黑皮诺一样 , 入夜气温要低，白天则温暖阳光充足，种出的蕃茄才有蜜桃 般的爽脆口感。 」

Pendolino 还在枝上时便待价而沽，售出后直接挂着自然风乾，年中之 后才取下使用，常用作蕃茄泥酱的原料。Pendolino 在 Gianni 手中用途非常 多元 ： 「熬汤头、做沙拉或酱汁都行。 」

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Puntarelle Chicory 菊苣

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I N S A L ATA D I P U N TA R E L L E Italian Crunchy Bitter Chicory Salad with Anchovies 意大利脆苦苣沙拉与凤尾鱼

PUNTARELLE, “LITTLE TIPS,” is a type of chicory from a variety known as Catalogna, indigenous to a corner of Lazio outside Rome. As the name suggests, it was known for growing in Spain’s Catalonia region, though it has been cultivated across the Mediterranean basin for millennia. There are suggestions that it may date back to ancient Egypt, and the Roman historian Pliny in his Naturalis Historia refers to a type of chicory.

Historically, such greens were considered food fit only for the poor, along with root vegetables and beans – produce from the earth was most appropriate for those who worked the soil. Costanzo Felici, a 16th century botanist, remarked, “What is called salad…is said to have been stolen from the feed of animals.”

Starting in late November, the leaves must be picked while young and tender to make the most of their distinctive taste, which marries the peppery notes of arugula with the flavor of fennel and a texture resembling celery. Gianni explains, “Insalate di Puntarelle is really a Roman dish. It’s very healthy, with a unique taste, very refreshing and a little bit bitter – Italians love bitter tastes because they whet the appetite. We wash them in ice water, chop them, and put them back in ice water to get crispy. In the dressing we just use anchovies, a little bit of tomato, red wine vinegar, and a touch of grated garlic.”

Puntarelle，或称「小尖端」，为属于罗马邻 近拉齊奧地区所产的 Catalogna 菊苣的一种。 Catalogna 一如其名，来自西班牙加泰隆尼 亚地区，但传至地中海盆地区域栽种至今已 有数千年的历史。Catalogna 相传最早可追 「博 溯至古埃及时代， 罗马史学家 Pliny 在著述 也载为菊苣的一种。 物誌 (Naturalis Historia)」 传统上，该类作物与其他根茎类及豆 类植物一般，视为穷人的食物－土裡栽种的 产物供给靠土地工作的人吃，适得其所。16 世纪植物学家 Costanzo Felici 形容得好： 「所 谓沙拉，就是从给动物的草饲裡偷来的食 物。 」

Puntarelle 产季始于 11 月底，摘取年轻 幼嫩的叶片才能品嚐到独一无二的味道，放 入沙拉中与芝麻叶的辛辣搭配的恰到好处， 带有茴香气味及类似西洋芹的口感。主厨解 释： 「Insalate di Puntarelle 是非常道地的罗 马菜，健康满点、味道与众不同，清爽又带 点苦味。这可以刺激食欲，意大利人很喜欢。 菜叶冰水过洗后切片，再浸冰水一次，才有 爽脆口感。盛盘很简单，加鯷鱼、一些蕃茄、 红酒醋，再磨些许蒜碎就大功告成了。 」

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Zucca Pumpkin 南瓜

CREMA DI ZUCCA CON PORCINI E CAPESANTE Cream of Pumpkin Soup with Porcini and Scallops 南瓜浓汤佐牛肝菌及扇贝

THE MANTOVANA PUMPKIN comes from Mantua, a small corner of Lombardy east of Milan, but like all pumpkins, it was originally native to the Americas, where it had been cultivated for millennia.

Harvested from late autumn to early winter, it has long been appreciated for its culinary usefulness as much as its hardiness – every part of the plant is edible, from the flowers and leaves to the seeds, and even the skin. It’s known for its hefty size and weight, firm and compact orange-colored pulp, extremely thick peel, and high sugar content. With a nutty taste somewhere between a sweet potato and a chestnut, its versatility makes it a key ingredient in Lombardy’s traditional cuisine, both sweet and savory.

Gianni’s soup involves roasting the pumpkin in the oven before blending it into a base of shallots and vegetable stock. Sautéed fresh French porcini and scallops round off the dish.

Mantovana 南 瓜 产 地 为 米 兰 东 部 Lombardy 小镇，不过就像所有种类的南瓜一样，源头 皆来自美洲，已有数千年的历史。 秋末到初冬为 Mantovana 产季，除了抗 耐性强之外，所结的花、叶子、种子，甚至 果皮都可入菜，料理价值极高。该种南瓜块 头大、沉甸甸且外表坚固，果肉呈橘黄色泽、 口感扎实，果皮则相当厚实、带有高度糖类 成份，果肉散发介于地瓜和栗子的核果滋味。

Mantovana 用 途 百 搭， 成 为 Lombardy 地方料理，各式咸甜菜色的最佳拍档。

Gianni 先把南瓜放入烤箱烘烤，取出后 再倒入青葱及蔬菜调製的汤头，餐盘周围则 放上香煎法国牛肝菌及扇贝增添风味。

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Cime di Rapa Turnip Tops 芜菁叶

S PA G H E T T I C O N C I M E D I R A PA , CALAMARETTI E VONGOLE Spaghetti Martelli with Clam and Baby Calamari in Cime di Rapa Sauce 蛤蛎及小花枝Martelli意大利麵佐Cime di Rapa酱

CIME DI RAPA sounds infinitely more appealing than its English translation, “turnip tops,” although this member of the brassica family is increasingly known as broccoli rabe. It has long been featured in Mediterranean cuisines, especially those of Galicia, Portugal and Southern Italy.

Some have suggested that cime di rapa descended from a wild turnip-like herb that grew in China, and there is certainly a similarity to the Chinese broccoli, kai-lan. The leaves, stem, and buds are all edible, slightly bitter, sometimes with a nutty aftertaste.

Although available year-round, peak season in the Northern Hemisphere is from fall to spring. Gianni explains the innovative twist he gives his recipe: “Classically in Italy you cook the cime di rapa in the same water as the pasta and then dress both simply with oil and garlic. To make it more interesting we combine it with vongole and baby calamari and also create a purée from the rest of the plant.”

Cime di rapa 原名比起英文译名「芜菁叶 (turnip tops)」听来较具吸引力， 不过要说的话，这种十字花科植物还是以「甘蓝菜苗 (broccoli rabe)」 这名称最广为人知。Cime di rapa 可说是地中海美食中不可或缺的要角， 尤其 Galicia、葡萄牙及南意等地料理更是道道不缺席。 有一说 cime di rapa 源自中国某种类似芜菁的野生植物，也确实 和中国的球茎植物芥蓝有不少共通点，叶子、叶茎、芽苞通通可以食用， 入口略带苦味，有时会有核果般的后韵。

Cime di rapa 虽然全年生产，但北半球产季以秋天到春天为主。 「意大利传统作法很简单，用同一锅水煮 Gianni 也挹注了独特的巧思 ： 及麵条，盛盘后加个橄榄油及蒜头即可。但在我们餐厅， cime di rapa 除了蛤蛎和小花枝外，还把芜菁剩下的部位打成泥点缀，吃起来别有 一番风味。 」

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Carciofi Artichoke 朝鲜蓟

DUO DI CARCIOFI COTTI Artichoke Served and Prepared Two Ways (Fried & Stewed) 朝鲜蓟二吃 (酥炸及炖煮)

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T H E F O R B I D D I N G - L O O K I N G S P I N Y A R T I C H O K E , Cynara cardunculu s, is actually the fruit of a plant with beautiful blue blossoms. Originating in North Africa, it arrived on southern Mediterranean shores and was cultivated in Sicily during the Greek colonization of southern Italy around 800 BC. It was shunned for centuries until it finally found favor in the early Renaissance with the Medici family, the ruling dynasty of Florence, and from there its popularity spread across Europe.

Even today it can seem a slightly daunting prospect for the uninitiated.

Italy is the world’s largest producer of carciofi, with many varieties of the versatile vegetable cultivated today, including the large, tender cimaroli of Rome or the purple Violetto di Provenza from Liguria.

For his dish, Gianni selects the thorn-free, popular purple Romanesco, which have been cultivated since at least the 13th century and are harvested between February and April.

He prepares them in two classic ways in the same dish. Alla Romana braises them whole with anchovies, olives, mint, and breadcrumbs. Alla Giuda, “in the Jewish style,” involves cleaning and preparation, as the chef explains, “before deep frying briefly at a low temperature so they become soft, then at the last moment deep frying again at a high temperature to get that crispiness outside.”

Cynara cardunculus 朝鲜蓟虽然长满尖刺，令人退避三舍，却 是能开出美丽蓝色花朵的球根植物。朝鲜蓟由北非传至南地中 海区域，并于西元前 800 年希腊佔领南意时期开始于西西里岛 大量种植，但却一直不对当地人胃口，备受冷落，直到文艺复 兴初期因成为翡冷翠名门望族梅迪奇家族的心头好才由黑转红， 自此在欧洲各地大受欢迎。直至今日，不谙此物的人恐怕仍不 敢轻易尝试。 意 大 利 为 全 球 最 大 carciofi 朝 鲜 蓟 生 产 国， 培 植 许 多 变 种，包括体型较大、偏软的罗马种 cimaroli 或紫色的 Liguria 种

Violetto di Provenza。 主厨选择的紫色无刺种 Romanesco 颇有人气，栽种历史 至少可回溯至 13 世纪，于 2 月至 4 月间盛产。他用两种方式烹 调，让饕客在同道料理中尝到不同滋味。有关食材清洗及备料

Gianni 一律採用「犹太式方法 (Alla Romana)」，将朝鲜蓟、橄榄、 薄荷及麵包屑一起炖煮。他进一步说明 ： 「先短暂低温炸过变得 软嫩，起锅前再高温油炸让外层酥脆爽口。 」

SORBETTI AGLI AGRUMI SICILIANI Mixed Sicilian Citrus Sorbets 综合西西里柑橘雪芭

THE CITRUS TREES OF SOUTHERN ITALY, especially in Sicily, start to brighten gray days with their technicolor globes from late November onwards.

The Sicilian blood orange, Arancia Rossa di Sicilia, has been awarded the Indicazione Geografica Protetta, recognition by the European Commission that guarantees quality, reputation, and authentic geographical origin. Their flesh is sweet and tender with streaks of vivid blood red. The unique color comes from anthocyanin, the pigment that gives the blue to blueberries, the red to cherries, and the purple to eggplants.

Tarocco, Sanguinello, and Moro are the chief varieties. Tarocco, seedless and easy to peel, is the most popular orange on Italian tables. Chef Gianni’s sorbet features Sanguinello, discovered in Spain in the 1920s. It matures in February, but can remain on the trees until April or even May. The Sicilian grapefruit, Citrus paradisi, is another relative newcomer, introduced from Barbados. A cross between pomelo and sweet orange, its taste is both acidic and sweet, and the pink variety has become a staple at Italian fruit stands.

Available year-round, the best fruit appears in late winter and early spring.

The final fruit in the sorbet trio is the mandarin, found in the groves of Messina, Catania, and Palermo since the 16th century. It is harvested from late November through January for domestic consumption and international export and for extraction of its oil.

His restaurant receives two shipments of fresh produce a week from Milan, but only after Gianni has called his suppliers to find out what’s good. “It could be bread from Altamura or fruit like this from Sicily,” he says. “My sorbets let you savor the wide variety of Italian citrus – the grapefruit’s tartness and lightness, the Sanguinello, full of flavor without being sour, and the mandarin that gives sweetness to finish.”

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意大利南部、特别是西西里区域的柑橘树 11 月底起开始结 实累累、鲜艳颜色为灰暗的冬日色调带来光彩。 西西里种血橙（Arancia Rossa di Sicilia）有欧盟执委 会的保证，曾获「Indicazione Geografica Protetta」认证， 品质、商誉及原产地均有详细记载，毫不马虎。血橙果肉 香甜软嫩，带着鲜明血红色条。独特的鲜艳色泽来自水果 蕴含的花青素，也是蓝莓、樱桃及茄子各色斑斓的原因。

Tarocco、Sanguinello 及 Moro 均 是 当 地 盛 产 的 地 方种柑橘，Tarocco 无籽、容易剥皮，是意大利一般家庭 最常出现的橙类。Gianni 特製雪芭使用的 Sanguinello 为

1920 年代于西班牙发现的变种，通常 2 月即已成熟，但等 至 4 月、甚至 5 月再摘採都还非常美味。 西西里种葡萄柚（Citrus paradisi）为柚子及甜橙混种，原 产自巴贝多，引进时间还不长，但此酸甜兼具、全身粉 红的变种大受欢迎，俨然成为意大利水果摊的醒目招牌。

Citrus paradisi 全年都吃得到，最佳赏味时节为冬末初春。 雪芭三重奏中最后一种水果为 16 世纪于 Messina、 Catania 及 Palermo 等地发现的柑橘种（mandarin）。产季 从 11 月底至 1 月，供应国内消费市场外也销往他国，同时 可经萃取製作果油。

Gianni 合作的供应商熟知主厨脾性，农产品都经千挑 万选，一週两次由米兰直送餐厅厨房。他形容 ： 「可能有

Altamura 来的麵包，加上刚介绍的、西西里空运的水果。 我的特製雪芭可让人一嚐意大利各式柑橘滋味－葡萄柚的 酸呛及清新、多种口味融合却无突兀酸味的 Sanguinello， 最后以柑橘的鲜甜滋味划下完美句点。 」

Pompelmos Grapefruit 葡萄柚

Arancia Rossa di Sicilia Blood Orange 血橙

Mandarino Mandarin 柑橘

ingredients feature

地下传奇

buried treasure Stephan Burger stands next to a creamy white orb which resembles a small brain.

Its pure and earthy scent fills the air with an inscrutable pungency, and Burger, to keep his treasure in peak condition, is making sure the room doesn’t get too warm.

This is the rare white truffle, and Burger, one of Europe’s top truffle dealers, has come to town to introduce the culinary marvel to diners at the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong. Italian restaurant Tosca and Cantonese restaurant Tin Lung Heen have both created special menus to honor the fragrant fungus. Lucy Morgan sat down with Burger to discover more about this fascinating crop.

§ Stephan Burger 站

在一个乳白色球状物旁，此物纹路如人脑般清晰可见，散发出纯天然的泥土 香气，满室弥漫一股独特辛香，他嘱咐旁人，室内温度不可过高，以便让此 宝物维持最佳状态。这个罕见珍宝便是白松露，Stephan Burger 本是欧洲着 名的松露商，此次莅临香港丽思卡尔顿酒店，向宾客介绍这个料理界的梦幻 逸品。 为让大家更深入了解松露这种气味强烈的食用真菌，酒店的 Tosca 意 大利餐厅与天龙轩中餐厅都为白松露设计了特制菜单。而 Lucy Morgan 专访 Stephan Burger，深入探讨白松露的迷人魅力。

DAVID HARTUNG

What is the difference between a white and a black truffle?

For me they are completely different! Black truffles have a very intense flavor, whereas white truffles are delicate and refined. Black truffles are more common than the very rare white truffle and techniques have been developed to cultivate them. White truffles can only be found in the wild.

What makes white truffles so special?

First of all, they are so rare. And the season is very short – only a couple of months. And you cannot predict how many truffles there will be. Sometimes there are many, sometimes very few. Truffles lie hidden in the ground, they are a vegetable which you cannot see. I think sometimes it is not the things you can see which are important, but the things you cannot. The white truffle has mysterious qualities. Oh – and it

黑松露与白松露有何差别？ 对我来说，这两者有天壤之别，黑松 露的气味浓郁非常，而白松露的香气十分 细緻，黑松露较为常见，白松露则极为稀 罕，但目前已开发出多种採集松露的技术， 此外，白松露只在野外生长。 为什麽白松露这麽独特？ 首先，白松露十分罕见，而且产季很 短，仅仅数月的产季极短，每年产量难以 预期，波动幅度很大，各有疏密。松露埋 藏在地底下，用肉眼无法发现。在我看来， 目所不及之物更为重要。白松露非常神秘， 也极为昂贵，也许这就是白松露闻名于外 的原因了。 哪些因素会影响松露的大小？ 月亮好像对于松露的产量具有重要影 响，对其他作物亦然，松露的生长似乎有 其循环，满月或新月前的两三天，松露的 出产量会高于当月的其他时间。 ODE TO ITALY | TK |

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is very expensive, which is probably the main reason for its fame.

What influences the size of the crop?

The moon has a great influence on the number of truffles which appear, just as it has on all crops. The truffles seem to grow in cycles. Two or three days before both a full moon and a new moon there are more truffles than at other times in the month.

How do you find the white truffles? I have heard you use pigs, is that true?

We used to use pigs to sniff out the truffles, as they are quite easy to train. The problem always was that when the pigs found the truffles, they wanted to eat them, and pigs are strong and quite hard to restrain.

Now we use dogs, which sniff out the truffles and then dig until they unearth them.

Dogs don’t like truffles, so they leave them alone. Sometimes if you look carefully at the surface of a truffle you might see faint scratch marks. These are from the dogs’ paws as they dig them up! The truffle dogs are highly trained and very valuable. You would pay about 15,000 euros for one!

Where do white truffles grow?

In general, the white truffle is found in Italy and Eastern Europe. As for the specific location – well, truffle hunters never reveal exactly where they find them, but white truffles are mostly found in the roots of hazel trees. Truffles have been eaten for centuries and are documented in Roman times as having been plentiful. Over the centuries the numbers of truffles have declined, which is why they are so highly prized and rare today.

Why have the numbers declined?

Principally it has to do with the symbiosis between nut trees and white truffles. White truffles like to grow in the roots of trees, underground. Because the truffles receive no direct light from the sun, they rely on the nutrients from the tree’s roots. In return, the tree receives minerals and nutrients back

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from the fungus as it grows. Both plants benefit. A while ago the Piedmont region was full of hazelnut trees, but as the demand for nuts decreased in Italy, the farmers turned their land over to growing grapes for wine.

This meant there were fewer roots for the truffles to grow amongst, so their numbers have declined.

Tell us about the first time you ate a truffle.

I was a law student and I was importing a little wine from Italy. The winemaker I worked with told me about truffles – I knew nothing about them. I bought a truffle and took it back to Munich. It was clear to me it had a very unique taste. Now that I have eaten many truffles, I know that one truffle can differ from another. Some have a slightly garlic taste. The most important thing about a truffle is its smell – if your sense of smell is compromised, you won’t appreciate the truffle.

JON TADASHI MARTIN

What does a truffle dealer do?

We choose truffles from Italy, take them back to Munich, and then deliver them to top chefs around the world. We have to work fast – truffles only last for about fifteen days, so they need to be delivered quickly. They also start to lose water as soon as they leave the earth, which is very costly for us, as they shrink in size and weight! We deliver very fresh, readycleaned truffles in a very short time, and we are very careful about which ones we choose.

How do you choose a good truffle?

The consistency of a truffle is very important. I like it to have a high density. And then I look at the color – I am looking for a slight olive green tone to the skin. The smell of a truffle is very important. It is like a spectrum – the more they smell, the less they taste and vice versa. I tend to pick truffles which have a medium strength smell and taste, but I listen to my clients, too. It is a matter of taste – some prefer strong smelling, some sweet smelling, so I sniff them out. I am like their personal truffle dog!

听说您会选用猪去寻找松露的踪迹，这是 真的吗？ 我们曾训练猪只嗅闻出松露的位置， 因为训练容易。但头痛的是，猪也爱吃松露， 它们挖出松露时可能会一口吃掉，而要拉 住这麽有力的大猪可不容易。因此我们改 训练狗来嗅寻松露，狗的嗅觉很灵敏，一 闻到松露的特殊气味就会开始挖掘，直到 挖出为止，它们不喜欢吃松露，所以挖出 之后便将其弃之一旁。如果仔细观察，有 时你会发现松露表面有些许抓痕，那就是 狗在挖松露时留下的痕迹！每只松露猎犬 都训练有素，是十分宝贵的资产，有时一 只猎犬的价格甚至高达一万五千欧元！

是否能谈谈您第一次尝到松露滋味的情 形？ 当时我还是个法学院的学生，从意大 利 进 口 少 量 的 葡 萄 酒 售 卖， 跟 我 合 作 的 酿 酒 商 提 起 松 露， 那 时 我 对 松 露 还 一 无 所知，尝试着买了一颗带回德国慕尼黑。 那时我觉得松露的气味实在是无比特殊， 现在经验丰富 , 见多识广了，就知道每颗 松 露 的 气 味 都 不 同， 有 些 带 有 微 微 的 蒜 香 味。 松 露 最 重 要 的 精 华 就 是 气 味， 如 果 无 法 分 辨 其 独 特 的 香 气， 便 无 法 领 略 松露的不凡。 松露商负责什麽业务？

“ I think sometimes it is not the things you can see which are important, but the things you cannot. 在我看来，目所不及之物更为重要。“

白松露的产地在哪里？ 白松露一般产于意大利和东欧地区， 至于确切地点嘛，松露猎人绝对是守口如 瓶，但是白松露通常附着于榛树的树根。 人类食用松露由来已久，长达十几世纪， 罗马时代的史料便记载当时松露的产量十 分丰沛，然而这些年来松露的数量不断下 降，也因此价格不斐。

我们负责在意大利挑选松露，运回慕 尼黑后，再送到世界各地的名厨手上，而且 时间很紧迫，因为松露的保存期限大约只有 15 天左右， 因此运送速度必须非常快。此外， 松露一从泥土挖出便会开始流失水分，尺寸 缩小、重量减轻，对我们来说经济风险很大， 所以我们会以最快的速度运送新鲜、干净的 松露，而且挑选时也分外谨慎。

为什麽松露的产量会减少？ 基本上，与榛树和白松露之间的共生 关系有关。白松露性喜附着在地下树根生 长，也因此不会直接吸收阳光，必须仰赖 树根提供养分，而榛树则能吸收松露生长 过程中所产生的矿物质与养分，这是一种 互利共生的关系。以往意大利北部的皮埃 蒙特（Piedmont）的榛树数量众多，但是 随着本国对坚果的需求逐渐下降，农人纷 纷改种葡萄，生产葡萄酒，这也表示能供 松露附着的树根也越来越少，因此松露的 产量才会降低。

您如何挑选好松露？ 松 露 的 一 致 性 很 重 要， 我 个 人 喜 欢 很 厚 实 的 松 露， 颜 色 也 很 重 要， 我 会 挑 外 皮 带 有 浅 橄 榄 绿 色 泽 的 松 露， 气 味 更 是挑选的重点，就像是一个气味光谱般， 气味越浓，尝起来味道越淡，反之亦然。 我通常会挑选软硬度与气味都属中等的 松 露， 但 还 是 以 尊 重 客 户 的 意 见 为 主。 每 个 人 的 品 味 各 有 不 同， 有 些 客 人 喜 欢 浓 郁 强 烈 的 气 味， 有 些 人 喜 欢 带 甜 的 气 味， 所 以 我 会 仔 细 嗅 闻， 就 像 客 户 专 属 的松露猎犬一样！ ode to italy

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普立亚美酒寻踪

puglia wine country The indigenous grapes of an ancient place are finding renewed respect in some intriguing modern Italian wines.

BY DEBORAH GROSSMAN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HAMMONS

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Giuseppe “Peppino” Palumbo, CEO of Tormaresca

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ITALY’S PUGLIA REGION, nestled at the heel of the boot, protrudes into the cobalt depths of the Adriatic and Ionian seas. More remote and less heralded than the Mediterranean’s other southern coastal destinations, it quietly beckons discerning lovers of wine.

Here one encounters ancient vines nourishing grapes with names like Negroamaro, Primitivo and Nero di Troia that evoke the endless story of settlement by overlapping waves of Mycenaeans, Greeks, Romans, Goths, Byzantines, Normans, and Turks.

The wineries of Puglia have been pouring forth their abundance for centuries. Today they dot 300 miles of coastline, lands flowing across the dry limestone plateau, and gentle slopes rising toward the north.

We begin near Leporano, a maritime town in the southern Taranto province, where medieval castles and watchtowers overlook the rocky beaches of the Ionian coast. The Varvaglione Vigne e Vini winery, a mile from the sea, lies in the heart of ancient Magna Graecia, the land colonized by Greeks 700 years before Christ. Maria Teresa Varvaglione, who runs the business along with her husband Cosimo, shares some local lore: “Pythagoras established his school in Taranto by the sea. Thus the Negroamaro grapes we craft our Schiaccianoci wine from borrow their name from the Latin and Greek meaning for black.”

Negroamaro grapes, indigenous to Puglia, are true to their name, offering a dark, inky fruit with the spicy character of blackberries, black currants, and black pepper, along with hints of nutmeg and cloves. These grapes have been the pillar of Puglia’s wines for many, many centuries, profusely grown and perfectly adapted to the hot and arid terrain.

普立亚 (Puglia) 地区正巧落在意大利靴型 国土脚跟处，向外突出，延伸至亚德里亚 及爱奥尼亚海域的湛蓝深海处。与临地中 海的南方海岸城镇比较，相形偏远、人气 不高，但普立亚却是不少资深葡萄酒爱好 者的心头好。 到 此 放 眼 可 见 的 古 老 庄 园， 孕 育 带 着「Negroamaro」、「Primitivo」、「Nero di Troia」等名称的葡萄种，立即让人坠入迈 锡尼、希腊、罗马、哥德、拜占庭、诺曼 人及土耳其人重重故事交叠的历史回忆中。 普立亚地区酿酒人不断拓展葡萄园占地， 时至今日已蔓延 300 英哩海岸线，横跨乾 燥石灰平原到向北逐渐隆起的丘陵区。 我 们 选 择 Taranto 省 南 边 临 海 小 镇 Leporano 作为起点，一路不少监看爱奥尼 亚海边岩石滩头的中世纪城堡与 暸望 塔映 入眼帘。Varvaglione Vigne e Vini 庄园距海 边仅有一哩之遥，位于西元前 700 年希腊 人殖民地 Magna Graecia 古老地区的核心 地带。Maria Teresa Varvaglione 和丈夫 Cosimo 共同打理酒庄，看到我们也立即分享 在地的古老传说 ： 「希腊人毕达哥拉思曾在 Taranto 临海建了座学校，我们酿造 Schiaccianoci 酒的葡萄种 Negroamaro，名称即来 自拉丁及希腊文，意指黑色。」 普立亚地方种 Negroamaro 葡萄一如其 名，呈黑亮色泽，带有黑莓、黑醋栗、黑 胡椒的呛辣味，以及一丝肉豆蔻及丁香气 息。数个世纪以来，Negroamaro 可说是支 撑地方酿酒业发展的重大功臣，完全适应 当地偏热及酸性风土，故而广为栽种。 Varvaglione 酒 庄 同 时 也 向 Tenute Pizzariello 等多处葡萄园购入不少 Primitivo 种 葡萄。该庄园为 Carducci 家族所有，所居 城堡四周种满花朵，美不胜收。普立亚地 区最广为人知的葡萄种非 Primitivo 莫属， 酿 製 的酒味道质朴、饱满、气味浓厚，带 有 黑 莓、 巧 克 力 及 浓 缩 咖 啡 (espresso) 的 韵味。追溯 Primitivo 变种源头，据传于 17

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This grape is known by many names, but legend tells us that it was Diomedes, the hero of the Trojan War, who brought the shoots to Puglia and planted them himself.

Yet the Varvagliones also buy many Primitivo grapes from vineyards like Tenute Pizzariello, owned by the Carducci family, who live surrounded by flowers in a castle on the estate. Primitivo, the most widelyrecognized of Puglia’s grapes, yields wines that are rustic, robust, and intensely flavored, with notes of black cherry, chocolate, and espresso. The variety is thought to have been brought over from Croatia in the 1700s, and recent DNA analysis has shown that the Zinfandel of California is its genetic twin.

Once chiefly used to boost the flavor and color of cooler grapes in blending wines that are shipped in bulk to northern Italy, a fresh crop of Primitivo wines that command singular attention is coming from a new breed of vintners.

The pedigree of the Duca Carlo Guarini winery – near the southern tip of Italy’s heel – is impeccable. The current duke, Giovanni Guarini, descends directly from Norman settlers who began making wine in Puglia in 1114. During the 1990s, Guarini turned out the first bottles of pure Primitivo. Today,

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Boemondo, named after an ancestor’s friend who joined him on the First Crusade, is one of Guarini’s modern premium wines crafted from 100% Primitivo grapes.

We chance upon the third of Puglia’s indigenous varieties, Nero di Troia, further north, mainly along the Adriatic coast. This grape is known by many names, but legend tells us that it was Diomedes, the hero of the Trojan War, who brought the shoots to Puglia and planted them himself. The grape is coveted for its exuberance, with flowery, licorice notes and high tannin that often requires taming. New methods are helping Nero di Troia gain status as a premium wine grape.

The pride of the Rivera winery, founded in the 1940s in the Castel del Monte region, is Il Falcone. The wine is crafted from native Nero di Troia grapes. Sebastiano de Corato, grandson of the founder, comments: “When someone says my wines don’t taste like Puglia, I know they are referring to the previous generations of wines.” His grandfather was one of the first growers to recognize that

世纪传自克罗埃西亚，最近的 DNA 分析 则显示 Primitivo 与加州的 Zinfandel 是基因 类似的双生种。Primitivo 原用途是为送至 北意的桶装混酿低温葡萄增色添味，现在 重新打出名号的新鲜 Primitivo 葡萄酒则是 来自新一代酿酒人的手笔。 Duca Carlo Guarini 酒庄位于意大利脚 跟南端附近，全由家族血统一脉相承。酒 庄主人 Giovanni Guarini 公爵祖先正是早在 1114 年便定居普立亚酿酒的初代诺曼人。 90 年 代，Guarini 开 风 气 之 先， 酿 造 出 首 批纯 Primitivo 葡萄酒。现在，以与祖先共 同参与第一次十字军东征的友人 Boemondo 所命名的葡萄酒，正是百分百 Primitivo 顶 级佳酿的代名词。 我们接着往北，于亚德里亚临海地区 幸运发现了普立亚的第三个地方葡萄种 Nero di Troia。该种葡萄有多个名字传世， 但依据古老传说应以特洛伊战争的英雄 Diomedes 为名，也正是他将葡萄种带来普 立亚，自行栽种。Nero di Troia 以味道丰富 闻名，带有花香、甘草味道，含高单宁需 要后续调和。新酿酒法的引进，也让 Nero di Troia 葡萄酒味道更独特，已然成为顶级 酒的一员。

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Caucasus areas to learn which ones might flourish in the region’s conditions. His new green winery features solar power and a visitors’ center.

As always, Puglia’s story continues to unfold. The wine industry is consolidating.

The tourists are arriving in increasing numbers. The old castles and the farmhouses known as masserias are being bought up and restored as country estates and luxury rentals. Yet other things remain the same.

It took such a poet as Italy’s greatest, Dante Alighieri, to distill in a few words the eternal essence of the place: “Puglia is a thirsty land where the sun turns into wine.”

wine from the terra rossa clays and tufa limestone soils could be equally meritorious. In 1952, he bottled the first wine in Puglia under its own label, surprisingly, a Chardonnay. Rivera still produces awardwinning Chardonnay as well as two dozen other wines.

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Finally, near Taranto where we first began, the Tenute Eméra winery bestows a glimpse of Puglia’s future. Owner Claudio Quarta has applied his knowledge as a biologist to the growing of grapes. He has planted a test vineyard with hundreds of varieties from the Mediterranean and

1940 年 于 Castel del Monte 地 区 落 成 的 Rivera 酒庄产品中首推 Nero di Troia 酿 製 的 Il Falcone。创始人孙子 Sebastiano de Corato 对自家美酒深具信心 ： 「说我们的 酒喝起来不像普立亚所产，指的应该是前 一代的葡萄酒而言。」他的祖父为早期酿酒 先驱之一，在发现 terra rossa 钙红土及 tufa 石灰土壤为栽种葡萄得天独厚的条件后， 1952 年于普立亚出产挂着酒庄品牌的首支 葡萄酒，惟出人意料的，竟是夏多内白酒。 Rivera 酒庄现今除了二十馀种酒类外，仍 生产此款屡获奖项肯定的白酒。 绕了一圈，最后又回到 Taranto，一访 Tenute Eméra 酒庄似乎可窥见普立亚的未来 所在。酒庄主人 Claudio Quarta 活用自己作 为生物学家了解到的知识，挹注到酿酒流程 中。他划了一块试验地，种植数百种来自地 中海及高加索地区的品种，研究能适应该地 风土成长的葡萄种。他的绿色酒庄使用太阳 能运转，同时设有游客中心接待各地旅客。 普立亚的故事会继续写下去。酿酒业 正不断茁壮成长，来访游客人数也继续攀 升。旧时古堡及当地话称为 masseria 的农 舍变成观光亮点，作为地区资产保存或豪 华民宿出租。但有些事物 恆久不 变，意大 利 伟 大 诗 人但丁 说 得好，隻字片 语 便道 尽 一切：「 普立亚为 飢渴 之地，将阳光化为 美酒。」

原乡味

home plate The fundamental flavors of a region are masterfully combined by a fond native son.

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Chef Pino Lavarra

of ingredients, textures, and flavors of the region. The lamb has a certain sweetness that is balanced by the savory notes of the bread and cheese, and the crunchy exterior provides a complementary texture. The almond soil adds further contrast in texture and taste, and the use of dehydrated vegetables – with distinct notes from each one – keeps it from being one-dimensional or too sweet.

With all the ingredients coming from Puglia, and many of them from small producers, the dish epitomizes the very best of the region – Puglia on a plate.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

time they are still to be found on family PINO LAVARRA, Director of Michelin-starred tables today.”

Tosca, was born and raised in Puglia. He He is so passionate about the region, says there are three quintessential items and the distinctiveness in the taste of the that are always found on the region’s dinner produce, that he imports not only cheese tables at a typical meal: local bread, local and lamb from Puglia, but also the bread, cheese and a salad made from ingrediwhich is flown in two to three times a ents bought at the farmers’ market each week. Altamura Bread has DOP classificamorning. Lamb is a star protein in Puglia, tion (“Protected Designation of usually served on Sundays and Origin”) and by law it has to meet on important feast days and celBY certain requirements to carry this ebrations like Easter.

VICKI WILLIAMS name, including the use of durum And so when asked to create wheat, a specified production a dish that best represented PHOTOGRAPHY BY method, and a crust measuring the region, he prepared lamb DAVID HARTUNG over 3mm in thickness. encrusted in Altamura bread and Almonds also speak of the region, says Caciocavallo cheese, served with an almond Lavarra – Puglia is one of the biggest proand vegetable “soil,” and finished with a ducers in the country. While they are most green salad and edible flowers. commonly found in desserts, the chef has “This dish highlights my modern, innoincorporated them as a savory element on vative approach to cuisine, yet at the same the plate. He also highlights the abundance time it showcases the ingredients that are of vegetables in the Puglian diet by incorpoPuglian. The dish is contemporary, but the rating seven of them in the soil. ingredients are traditional and take me back The dish is a harmonious marriage to childhood celebrations, yet at the same

米其林星级名厨 Pino Lavarra 是香港丽思卡

充满现代感与创意的料理方式，而所有的食

仁产地之一，普利亚的代表产物少不得杏仁。

尔顿酒店 Tosca 意大利餐厅的总监，自小生

材都来自于普利亚，可说是当代与传统的完

这种食物最常用于甜点，Pino Lavarra 则 选

。在这里， 长于意大利南部的普利亚（Puglia）

美呼应 ，让我回想起童年时庆祝过节的情景。

择将其融入咸食料理中，另用普利亚常见的

餐桌上总少不了三样美食 ：在地生产的面包、

直到今天，当地家家户户的饭桌上都还有这

七种蔬菜，象徵当地富饶的农产。

起司，以及每天早晨到农夫市集购买食材製

道料理。 」

作而成的沙拉，而羊肉则是普利亚人最佳的

Pino Lavarra 热爱家乡以及当地蔬果的

这道料理无论在食材、口感抑或风味等 各个层次都搭配的完美合宜，充分展现普利

蛋白质来源，他们通常只在星期天或復活节

独特风味，他不仅从普利亚进口起司和羊肉，

亚特色。面包的咸味与羊肉的微甜相互平衡，

等重大节庆才会吃羊肉。

还包含当地的面包，每星期需配送两到三次。

而起司与麵包酥脆的外皮则创造绝佳的口感， 杏仁颗粒更衬托出整体口感与风味，另外，

道能代表普利亚的料理时，他选择了意大利

Altamura 面包具有 DOP 认证，即「受保护原 产地名」 （Protected Designation of Origin）的

Altamura 面包与 Caciocavallo 起司包复香煎

产品，需符合法律规定的种种要件才能冠上

味，让料理的层次更丰富多元，避免过甜。

羊柳，佐以杏仁颗粒与各式蔬菜，再用翠绿沙

Altamura 的名称，如产品必须使用杜兰小麦 与指定製作工序，且面包外皮厚度需达 3 公厘。 Pino Lavarra 说，作为意大利最主要的杏

亚，且多半源自小型农场，制成的料理可说

因 此， 当 餐 厅 请 Pino Lavarra 设 计 一

拉与豔丽花朵装饰摆盘。 「这道菜展现出 Pino Lavarra 主厨表示 ：

经去水处理的七种蔬菜，各自具有独特的口

Pino Lavarra 採用的食材均来自于普利 是集普利亚当地精华大成之作。 ode to italy

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Executive Chef and Food & Beverage Director Yves Duron and Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man 行政总厨及餐饮总监杜文斯和饼房总厨梁健文

共享美点

At the Grand Lapa Macau, Executive Chef and Food & Beverage Director Yves Duron takes patisserie to new heights of freshness and originality.

“LOOK ME IN THE EYE and tell me you don’t

need cake!” says Yves Duron, Executive Chef and Food & Beverage Director at Grand Lapa Macau. “Imagine a birthday, a wedding, a party without a cake! Cakes bring sparkle to life.” It is impossible to argue with the man as he stands supreme in The Cake Shop, Grand Lapa’s famous pâtisserie, surrounded on every side by the pastry team’s colorful and tempting creations.

“Everything you see is made fresh daily,” says Yves, who has been at the property for

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twenty-six years. “The pastry chefs start work at 6am and at noon the shop opens with cakes and pastries straight from the oven. At 7:30pm – half an hour before the shop closes – we sell everything half price.

Anything left over goes to the staff canteen.

There is no waste and absolutely no compromise on freshness.”

Customers are queuing to buy individual pastries, freshly baked bread, handmade chocolates and to order custom cakes for special occasions. “Our pastry team can

make anything,” says Yves. “Where cake is concerned, the sky is the limit – we once produced a layer cake seven feet high! We love a challenge.”

The Cake Shop at Grand Lapa has a reputation for producing classics like their best-selling cheesecakes. But it is also celebrated for innovation, and there are two items on the list which are quite spectacular. A ring-shaped pastry catches our eye, simply iced and scattered with dried rose petals. “That is the result of weeks of work by our chef,” Yves smiles. “It is a croissant donut made from croissant pastry, fried, and then filled with a delicious cream. He made nothing else for three weeks until he had

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

let us eat cake

presented by grand lapa macau

由澳门金丽华酒店行政总厨及餐饮总监 Yves Duron 坐镇酒店声名远播的「The Cake Shop」 ，环伺店内，色彩斑斓、令人食指 大动的甜点全是酒店饼房团队的心血结晶。 糕点对 Yves 的重要性不言可喻。他说 ： 「看 着我的眼睛，然后说你不需要蛋糕！想像 一下，过生日、婚礼或派对中没有蛋糕该 怎麽办！蛋糕为生活带来精彩的火花。 」 Yves 在金丽华工作已经 26 年，对蛋糕 制作流程了若指掌 ： 「我们的糕点师傅早上 六点工作，中午开门时上架的都是刚从烤箱 出来的蛋糕及点心，关门前半小时，全品项 半价出售，如有多出的糕点就会送去员工餐 厅，完全不浪费，新鲜度不打丝毫折扣。 」 慕名而来的客人大排长龙想买各式点 心、 还 有 刚 出 炉 的 烘 焙 面 包、 手 工 巧 克

力，或订购专为不同场合打造的客制蛋糕。 Yves 自豪表示 ： 「没有什麽可以难得倒我 们的团队。说到蛋糕，我们乐意接受挑战， 还曾经做过七尺高的多层蛋糕！」 「The Cake Shop」拥抱经典，制作各式 长卖型蛋糕，销售第一的起司蛋糕便备受 各方顾客青睐，但同时也让总厨投注许多 心力创新，店内有两款精美蛋糕特别值得 介绍。首先引人目光的便是一个环型糕点， 轻裹糖衣，复着些许乾燥玫瑰花瓣。Yves 脸带笑意说 ： 「这是我们师傅耗费数周时间 研发的成果。牛角包面团炸过做成牛角包 面包圈，里面填满美味奶油便大功告成。 师傅把这道糕点做得尽善尽美之前，三周 时间不碰其他的事。牛角包面包圈一天限 量八个，卖完为止，因为要新鲜才好吃。」

法式泡芙成列排着，玫瑰粉红及翠绿 糖霜闪耀诱人色泽。总厨说明 ： 「这是全新 口味，我们挹注许多创意在闪电泡芙上， 让传统法式点心吃得到地方风味。 」翠绿闪 电泡芙复着淡淡一层奶油，带着些许柑橘 清香，上方还摆了一支纸蝴蝶，犹如停驻 在鲜美花朵上，赏心悦目。红、琥珀、绿 三色交错的糕点有三种不同内馅，红色块 下的淡粉奶油散发玫瑰及荔枝香气、琥珀 区的铜色奶油充满丰厚的泰国茶香、绿色 块则是香味四溢的开心果酱，多种风味交 融、是饕客等级的别致点心。Yves 此时又 忍不住说 ： 「谁敢看着我说世界上不需要蛋 糕看看！」 来趟「The Cake Shop」，还有谁能不同 意那句话呢？

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presented by grand lapa macau

perfected the recipe. We only make eight each day – once they are gone, they are gone, because they are delicious only when fresh.” Éclairs lie in a row, tempting and glossy with rosy pink and emerald green frosting.

“This is new,” explains Yves. “We‘ve gotten really creative with our éclairs by introducing local flavors to a traditional French pastry.” An emerald green éclair holds a light cream with a gentle hint of citrus, with a rice paper butterfly gracing the top as if it had paused on a beautiful blossom. A tricolor pastry iced in red, amber, and green holds three different fillings. The red section conceals a pale pink cream fragrant with rose and lychee, the amber section a bronzed cream with the rich taste of Thai tea, and the green section a luscious pistachio cream – an exceptional fusion of flavors designed for true gourmands. “Now look at me and tell me that cake is not necessary!” challenges Yves.

After a visit to The Cake Shop, who could argue the point?

↑ Croissant Doughnut 牛角包面包圈 ↗ Raspberry New York Cheese Cake 桑子纽约芝士饼 → Chocolate Truffle Cake 浓巧克力蛋糕

黑森林蛋糕

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DAVID HARTUNG (4)

→→ Black Forest Cake

Black Forest Cake 黑森林蛋糕

ODE TO ITALY | TK |

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presented by banyan tree macau

璀璨冬夜

light in the darkness DURING THE SHORT DAYS and long nights of winter, diners’ spirits

can be lifted by flavors that are light and bright. The special signature selections at Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron restaurant positively glow.

Renu Homsombat, Corporate Thai Chef of Banyan Tree, has made a special journey from her home in Bangkok to present four light and vibrant dishes on the new à la carte menu starting in February at Saffron in Macau. Chef Renu is known for taking traditional Thai recipes and skillfully refining them, while preserving their authentic flavors. 进入昼短夜长的冬季，唯有食物鲜明清爽的口感能让饕客的精神为之 一振，而澳门悦榕庄的正宗泰国餐馆《尚坊》（Saffron）新推菜单上 的精选菜色，犹如漫漫冬夜中指引饕客的一抹璀璨光芒。 Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts’ Saffron Corporate Thai Chef Renu Homsobat and Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron Chef de Cuisine Chef Kanokwan Pungjaroenkijkul 悦榕酒店及度假村集团尚坊泰国总厨Renu Homsobat 和澳门悦榕庄尚坊厨师长Kanokwan Pungjaroenkijkul

曼谷悦榕庄总厨 Renu Homsombat 特意亲临澳门，为《尚坊》 二月的新菜单增添四道口味清爽鲜活的料理。她擅长以精緻手法料理 传统泰式菜餚，为料理赋予新意，同时保留道地泰国风味，广受好评。

Por Pia Sod Goong Song Krueng: Fresh Prawn Spring Roll, Mint, Basil, Chili, Tamarind Sauce 薄荷鲜虾酥捲 : 新鲜明虾春捲、薄荷、罗勒、辣椒、罗望子酱

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柔软的春捲皮包裹新鲜无比的溪虾，轻食烹煮方式 让食材保有细緻口感。溪虾肉质柔嫩，具有特别纯 淨的风味，虽然成本比常见的海虾高，总厨还是独锺 溪虾，让这道爽口味美的开胃菜更添几分清新口感。 鲜虾酥捲上缀有薄荷叶、罗勒、泰国青柠叶等 色泽鲜明的香草，更让这道菜散发怡人香气，搭配 深琥珀色的酸味罗望子酱与具有浓郁烟燻味的鱼露， 形成视觉与味觉的对比，另加少量辣椒更能轻微触 动饕客味蕾。此外，总厨 Renu 在沾酱中加入些许碎 腰果，并以嫩黄的莴苣花作顶部装饰，为整道料理 添上画龙点睛效果。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Soft spring roll wrappers embrace river prawns, lightly cooked to retain their delicate texture. The tender flesh of a river prawn has a distinctively clean flavor, and though more expensive than its popular seadwelling brother, Chef Renu favors the river prawn’s ability to bring clarity and purity to this light and fresh appetizer. Bright herbal notes from fresh leaves of mint, basil, and kaffir lime come forward one by one to add fragrance. In contrast, a rich sauce the color of dark amber delivers sourness from tamarind, a light kick from chili, followed by the dusky scent of fish sauce. To perfectly finish the dish, Chef Renu adds a little crushed cashew to the dipping sauce for crunch and sprigs of acidyellow lettuce flowers to the tops of the spring rolls for a flash of color.

Pla Krapong Ob Samunprai: Oven-Baked Whole Red Snapper, Northeastern Style, Spicy Chili Sauce 蕉 叶 烤 红 鲷 : 烤 红 鲷、 泰国东北风味、辣椒酱

A neat oblong of charred banana leaves is opened at the table to reveal a perfectly cooked red snapper. Its skin has been marinated in a turmeric mixture, coloring the outside of the fish a deep ochre. The center of the snapper holds fresh Thai herbs, tomato slices, and a pandan leaf. During the cooking process the tomato helps to keep the fish juicy, while the pandan imparts its sultry scent to the flesh. This dish is served with two dipping sauces, red and green. The green sauce is salty and sour with lime juice and green chili, the red sauce has the warming smoky flavors of Northeast Thailand provided by roasted chili. Coils of rice noodles dressed in garlic oil, salt, and soy, with slivers of red chili served at room temperature, make a satisfying accompaniment.

切缘整齐的香蕉叶摊开于餐桌上，叶 子中央是一尾精心烹製的红鲷，鱼皮 以薑黄香料醃渍后呈现深赭色，而鱼 肚上洒有许多泰式香草、蕃茄切片、 七叶兰等等配料。烹煮过程中加入蕃 茄，让鱼肉口感更显丰润多汁，而七 叶兰则让鲷鱼香气扑鼻。这道料理搭 配红酱与青酱两种沾酱，绿酱口味偏 咸辣，以莱姆汁与青辣椒所调製，红 酱以烤辣椒调製，散发泰国东北菜的 温和烟燻风味。另外，米线捲成小捲 状后以蒜油、盐巴、酱油、碎红辣椒 调味，以室温上菜，是绝佳的佐餐小品。

presented by banyan tree macau

Gaeng Phed Nua: US Beef Tenderloin, Red Curry, Young Green Pepper, Sweet Basil, Rice Noodle 红咖哩椰奶牛肉 : 美国牛柳、红咖哩、 青胡椒、甜罗勒、米线

Cubes of fine US beef tenderloin are marinated in salt and pepper, then sautéed quickly to ensure they retain their juicy and tender texture before being concealed in a rust-red sauce marbled with swirls of coconut cream. The sauce is cooked separately from the beef—it requires time for the spices to release their fragrant oils. Chef Renu is careful not to overcook the meat, adding it to the curry just a few minutes before serving. The soft pieces of beef meld with the sauce to create a sumptuous mouth feel. The rich smoky flavors of the curry are created by a trinity of red chilies: dried, fresh, and the powerfully punchy miniature chili. Chef Renu adds fresh green peppers for crunch and then finally balances this robustly flavored dish with the light sweetness of coconut and the unique fragrance of sweet basil.

美国牛腰肉块以盐巴与胡椒醃渍后便快速嫩煎，锁住饱满肉汁，保持鲜嫩口感，再放入带 有椰奶乳白纹路的深红咖哩酱中。牛肉与酱汁需分开料理，因为酱汁需要较长的调製时间， 才能让香料气味充分释放，总厨 Renu 料理牛肉时非常谨慎，避免烹煮过度，上菜前几分 钟才将牛肉放入咖哩，软嫩的牛腰肉与酱料相融合，创造出奢华极致的口感。咖哩本身浓 郁的烟燻味来自于红辣椒三部曲 ：乾红辣椒、新鲜红辣椒，以及辣味十足的辣椒籽。此外， 总厨再以新鲜绿胡椒增添香脆口感，并运用椰奶的微甜与甜罗勒独特香气，让这道口味厚 重的料理达到完美平衡。

Poo Nim Yum Mamuang: Crispy Soft-Shell Crab, Green Mango, Cashew Nut, Chili, Sweet Lime Dressing 酸辣芒果蟹肉沙拉 : 软壳蟹、

青芒果、腰果、辣椒、甜柠酱

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

鲜脆的软壳蟹经过轻拍，放在捲成螺旋状的小黄瓜薄条上，蟹肉多汁鲜美而外壳酥脆，搭 配绿芒果沙拉，缀上一小撮泰国青柠细丝，恰好平衡蟹肉的浓郁滋味，再佐上含有辣椒的 椰酱，风味十足，而甜柠酱中的青柠汁带有甜味，让辣味变得温和顺口，更能突显蟹肉的 原汁原味。总厨 Renu 并在蟹肉沙拉旁安排一小块极甜的黄芒果，摆上几片罗勒叶尖，深 绿的叶子衬托下方的白色花朵，外型就像是颗缩小版凤梨，入口的刹那间，香气浓郁的芒 果汁液立刻在口中迸发，中和辣酱在舌尖上残留的刺麻感。

Ribbons of cucumber support lightly battered soft-shell crabs, their succulent meat encased in a satisfyingly crunchy exterior. A green mango salad, freshened by the thinnest shreds of kaffir lime leaves, balances the rich crab flesh and is served with a chili and sweet lime dressing. Sweet lime juice helps to temper the chili’s heat, allowing the natural flavor of the crab to shine. Chef Renu has taken small squares of the sweetest yellow mango and topped them with basil tips, their dark green leaves shading tiny white blossoms.

These mango creations resemble miniature pineapples and deliver an intense burst of perfumed juice, numbing any tingle left from the chili dressing. ode to italy

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presented by park lane hong kong

全新美味巡礼

touring new tastes As part of their popular and successful Guest Chef Tours, The Park Lane Hong Kong invited celebrity chef Arnold Tanzer to introduce their guests to the flavors of South Africa with a week-long celebration marking the hotel’s 40th anniversary.

FOUR DAYS INTO HIS ENGAGEMENT as Guest Chef at The Park Lane Hong Kong, Chef Arnold Tanzer is having a fantastic time.

“The team here is really amazing! You show them once how to make something and they understand and get your vision.”

Tanzer conveys his excitement at introducing his culinary heritage to Hong Kong: “The cuisine of South Africa is influenced by a number of different cultures. But to describe it in a few words, I would say that it is fairly hearty. We like chili. We usually have spices and sweetness in our dishes.

And we love meat. Chicken is considered a vegetable in South Africa!” The robust flavors and meat-centered cuisine will be reproduced faithfully at a traditional South African barbecue, or “braai,” he is hosting in the spectacular rooftop garden. It will feature such national delicacies as boerwors, a spicy spiral of beef sausage.

RIVA and The Deck, The Park Lane Hong Kong’s glamorous restaurant, is the site of a lavish wine pairing dinner. To create dishes that are faithful to the flavors of South Africa and yet fit into a fine dining context Tanzer comes up with a clever approach to designing the menu. “I’ve taken the traditional

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flavors of South Africa and played with them a little bit.” Some are familiar: tamarind, chili, spices. But Tanzer uses one very unusual ingredient in a unique dessert, a powder made from the fruit of the baobab tree, also known as “tree of life” because it can live for thousands of years. “Baobab trees grow predominantly in the Kalahari Desert,” says Tanzer. “The Bushmen suck chunks of the pod to sustain them in the heat. Baobab has a creamy citrus taste and it’s very nutritious.

I’ve created a dessert with pear and baobab to introduce this very traditional ingredient to our guests.”

Tanzer’s dishes are spare and graceful.

He likes to keep his plates uncluttered, with no more than four or five elements. He presents a venison dish that subtly conveys an

array of South African heritage flavors on one very elegant plate. This will be featured on the wine dinner menu, since Tanzer feels the flavor profile will marry perfectly with South Africa’s iconic grape variety, Pinotage.

“Venison loin is seasoned with the spices of biltong (a traditional dried meat snack) and served with quince, a popular South African fruit, to add sweetness. The carrot salad is a typical homestyle recipe. I wanted to give a real sense of our traditional ways of eating.”

Tanzer’s successful trip is just one in the ongoing series of Guest Chef Tours at The Park Lane Hong Kong, but one that will be long remembered by both diners and chef.

“I like to travel and learn about different cuisines,” says Tanzer, “and I love to help people find out about mine.”

←

Chef Arnold Tanzer

↑

Venison Loin, Braai Salad, Roasted Carrots 黄猄柳、南非沙律、烧甘笋

↗

Prawns, Sweetcorn Custard, Chorizo Popcorn 虾、粟米炖蛋、辣肉肠爆谷

→

Baobab Pear Parfait, Salted Mango Gel, Pistachio

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

梨子芭菲、海盐芒果果冻、开心果

香港柏宁酒店为欢庆四十周年推出的「星 级大厨巡礼」大受好评，最新客席为来自 南非的星级名厨 Arnold Tanzer，推出一周 不间断的南非风情美馔，引领宾客进入异 国美味世界。 进 驻 香 港 柏 宁 酒 店 (The Park Lane Hong Kong) 四 天 以 来， 客 席 名 厨 Arnold Tanzer 显然玩得不亦乐乎，对厨房伙伴的 表现大表赞赏 ： 「香港团队真的没话说，只 要示范一次就能立即抓到要领，知道我想 做什麽。」 有机会让香港饕客品尝家乡的地道美 馔 也 让 Tanzer 兴 奋 不 已， 他 说 ： 「南非菜 是不同文化交错影响下的产物，用一个词 形容的话，就是丰盛吧。南非人喜欢辣椒， 各式辛香料与甜味交融相当常见，也几乎 餐餐无肉不欢，鸡肉在南非人眼中根本就 和蔬菜没两样！」味道浓重及以肉为主的

料理风格在酒店空中花园的南非烧烤吧 ( 或 称 braai) 中尽展无遗。各式国民料理，如辣 味牛肉香肠卷 (boerwors) 也都没有缺席。 享用南非豪华餐酒飨宴的地点正是酒 店的 RIVA 餐厅及露天平台，为了让餐点一 方面忠实呈现南非道地风味，同时又不致与 高档餐饮氛围格格不入，Tanzer 想到了两全 其美的好方法 ： 「我保留南非菜的传统调味， 但一次只用一点点。 」耳熟能详的有罗望子、 辣椒及辛香料等食材，不过他另外也用了很 特别的食材，如面包树粉，做出独一无二的 甜点。面包树寿命长达数千年，又有「生命 树」的别名，主厨解释 ： 「面包树在喀拉哈 里沙漠四处可见，当地布希曼族人从面包树 豆荚厚片吸取水分，以在炎热天气下得以继 续活动。面包树有种绵密的柑橘味道，富含 多种营养，以西洋梨及面包树制的甜点希望 让饕客吃到这个传统食材的原始美味。 」

Tanzer 的菜简约又不失优雅气度，摆 盘不超过四到五种元素，凌乱无章是他的 大忌。 他的鹿肉料理体现多种南非传统风 味，摆盘雅致，也是餐酒套餐中的菜色之一。 这道菜与南非知名的葡萄品种「Pinotage」 酿制的美酒搭配的恰到好处。Tanzer 进一 步说明 ： 「鹿腰肉以 biltong ( 乾肉条 ) 调味， 出菜时再搭配南非人爱吃的水果 quince 增 加一些甜味。胡萝卜沙拉是典型的南非家 庭料理，在在都是为了想让饕客一尝我们 的传统吃法。」 Tanzer 虽然只是香港柏宁酒店「星级 大厨巡礼」的大厨之一，但客席期间端出 的好滋味必定令饕客齿颊留香，传颂不已。 对名厨自己而言也是难以忘怀的回忆，他 说： 「我喜欢四处旅行，学习不同的料理， 当然让别人知道南非菜的美味也是我的职 志之一。」 ode to italy

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新春筵宴

feasting on tradition Executive Chef at City of Dreams Macau Tam Kwok Fung explains why this time of year is so special during an interview in the regal surroundings of Jade Dragon.

CHEF TAM KWOK FUNG, Executive ChefFood and Beverage at City of Dreams Macau, is looking forward to Chinese New Year with great anticipation. He stands in the regal surroundings of Jade Dragon, a restaurant whose rich décor combines classic Chinese elements with clean, modern lines.

Leaning against a lacquered pillar covered with scenes from an ancient Chinese folktale, he explains why this time of year is so special.

“Chinese New Year is a time for gathering with friends and relatives. Today so many people live far apart, and this is a welcome opportunity to meet, greet, and get together again and to pay respect to our seniors. It’s a very warm tradition.” Chef Tam has prepared all the classic New Year dishes, using some very seasonal longevity ingredients.

“This is the time for celebration – we need to eat something spectacular!” he says. “My

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gourmet dish of sea cucumbers takes three full days to prepare. I carefully soak them, and then stew them in a delectable meat broth. Serving a dish like this truly honors your guests.”

Macau’s coastline provides Tam with an abundance of delicious local seafood. One of his New Year specialties features semi-dried golden oysters, another ingredient fit for luxurious celebration. “These oysters are dried for one day in the sun and wind, and then delivered to our kitchen directly.” A beautifully crafted silver stand with a carved dragon holds tantalizing bundles of the oysters, together with sea moss, crispy asparagus, and pork tongue. “This is an auspicious dish,” explains Tam. “The bundles of ingredients represent the family coming together, and the word for “tongue” in Cantonese sounds like the word for “profit” – it is very lucky. At Chinese New Year we like to eat things that bring good luck.”

Chef Tam’s presentations are known for their subtle flourishes – delicate purple flowers rest atop a cold bean curd dish, a raw fish salad derives its vivid colors from a variety of pickled and fresh vegetables and sweet cubes of raw salmon.

“This salad is a very traditional dish for Chinese New Year,” says Tam. “It’s a refreshing but luxurious mix that includes wild-caught, sweet-fleshed abalone, juicy pomelo, and sea cucumber. Our guests simply love this dish – they toss all the ingredients together, high into the air – it’s great fun and we encourage them to do it!

The tossing of the salad carries a symbolism of its own – the Chinese word for “toss” is also slang for a successful business. Chinese New Year is not just about celebrating with relatives, but also with one’s business family. And Jade Dragon is the perfect place to celebrate.”

presented by city of dreams

Salmon Sashimi, Sea Cucumber and Sweet Pickle with Homemade Plum Sauce 风生水起（三文鱼生，海参配梅酱捞起）

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung 总厨谭国锋

澳门新濠天地的餐饮部行政总厨谭国锋正 满心期待农历春节的到来。在装潢设计融 合中国传统美学与现代简约线条的誉珑轩 里，他细细解释着农历新年为何意义非凡。 总厨谭师傅表示 ： 「农历春节是与亲朋 好友相聚的时刻，现代人与家人好友多半 相隔两地，而农历新年就是与家人团聚、 与老友叙旧、向长辈请安祝贺的大好时节。」 他以合时养生的食材呈现数道传统新年菜 式： 「过年就是要庆祝，当然要来点特别 的菜式！我的海参菜式得需要花三天准备， 先要小心浸泡，再以鲜美肉汁炖煮，这样 精心烹制的菜式才能真正传达对客人的敬 意。」 澳门鱼类众多，为谭师傅供应各式海 鲜食材，在准备的丰富春节菜式中，有一 道菜式采用半乾金蚝，是奢华的庆典食材， 谭国锋说 ： 「这些金蚝经过一天的日晒风乾 后便直接送进我们的厨房。」这道菜色使用 瑰丽精致的雕龙银器，摆放柴把形的美味 金蚝、发菜、脆芦笋、猪 脷 尖等食材，谭 师傅解释 ： 「这是道吉祥菜，食材捆绑在一 起象徵家族的团聚，而粤语中『舌』（ 脷 ） 字发音与『利』字相近，非常吉利，中国 人在过春节时喜欢吃象征好运的菜式。」 谭师傅的摆盘以细致繁复着称，如豆腐 冷盘上方以精致的紫色花瓣点缀，而生鱼沙 拉中溷用各式甜泡菜与新鲜蔬菜以及三文鱼 生等等， 让整道菜色色彩丰富鲜明。他说： 「这 道沙拉是非常传统的中国新年菜，既清爽又 奢华，食材包含甘甜的野生鲍鱼、多汁的香 柚、海参等等，是客人其中一道最喜欢的菜 式，客人会把所有的食材捞起高高抛到空中， 落入盘中拌匀后一起享用，很有意思，我们 也鼓励客人这麽玩，这也就是粤菜中的捞鱼 生，中国字『捞』在俚语中作生意赚大钱的 意思。过新年不只要跟亲戚共聚，也是与生 意伙伴联系感情的好时机，誉珑轩就是庆祝 佳节的最佳去处。 」

Pan-fried Sea Cucumber with Shrimp Paste Mousse 百花齐放（葱烧煎酿辽参）

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满福楼盛世再临

a new era for dynasty A Cantonese classic combines tradition with a forward slant in its stunning new surroundings.

Executive Chef Benson Fok 行政总厨霍炳江

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presented by renaissance harbour view hotel hong kong

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 Lobster Fillet baked with Salted Egg coated with Almond Flake 杏香金沙焗龙虾球

 DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Barbecued Pork 蜜汁烤叉烧

 Fresh Mud Crab Claw steamed with Chinese Parsley and Preserved Egg 香荽皮蛋蒸蟹钳

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DYNASTY AT RENAISSANCE Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong has emerged from months of renovation with a completely fresh look. Just in time to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the hotel and its renowned Cantonese restaurant, the reborn Dynasty has shed its traditional yellow/gold tones for a contemporary, but still auspiciously Chinese, ambience.

The inspiration is the exquisite Xiguan mansions of Guangzhou, those magnificent residences from days of old. Marble in soft tones of gray, dark woods, and accents of teal make for a modern look that reflects the luxury of China’s past. The furnishings are original, custom-made designs, with unique carpet motifs in black and gray throughout. Lofty ceilings and dark, cool tones create a sense of serenity and sophistication.

Dynasty continues to offer its authentic Cantonese menu, but now from a modern perspective. Executive Chef Benson Fok has kept all the original favorites, like the signature Barbecued Pork, from the finest cut of pork.

But there is plenty of innovation. Chef Fok, with over thirty-five years in top Cantonese kitchens the world over, will be introducing a host of new dishes to awaken jaded palates. He puts an intriguing spin on Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, the classic soup of pork, duck, and chicken.

Rather than making the broth clear, as in traditional recipes, he simmers the ingredients into a delectably creamy stew.

One of Chef Fok’s most popular dishes is Lobster Fillet baked with Salted Egg coated with Almond Flake. The savory yolk is balanced by mellow almond chips, and the fresh sweetness of the lobster shines right through the strong flavors.

Dynasty has updated its direction and décor, but it will always stay true to its roots. Fresh ingredients, respect for tradition, and a bold modern take on fine Cantonese cuisine mean that Dynasty is ready for a brilliant new era.

香港万丽海景酒店知名中菜厅「满福 楼」为欢庆 25 週年，经数月装修，以 现代风格取代原本装潢的金黄色调， 却同时保留华人传统吉祥喜气的氛 围。 满福楼全新装潢灵感来自早年 广州名门望族所建的西关大宅。大理 石隐蕴柔滑灰色调、沉静的木饰，加 上 蓝 绿 色 调 贯 穿 其 中， 尽 显 华 奢 气 派。 所 有 傢 俱 均 是 量 身 打 造 的 原 创 设 计， 以 黑 灰 为 基 调 的 各 式 地 毯 分 隔 不 同 区 域， 高 挑 的 天 花 板 散 发 深

沉色泽，透出一丝宁静及细緻作工。 满福楼保留粤菜美味精髓，同时为广 東菜注入全新的当代风格。行政总厨 霍炳江保留原菜单的菜色，包括取猪 肉最顶级部位製作而成的蜜汁叉烧等 多道招牌名菜。 霍总厨三十五年間在各大顶级 粤 菜 馆 练 就 了 炉 火 纯 青 的 厨 艺， 为 满福楼带来许多富含创意的全新菜 單。 料 多 味 美， 包 括 经 典 中 菜「 佛 跳 牆 」 即 可 看 到 总 厨 的 巧 思。 他 不 循 传 统 力 求 汤 头 清 澈 的 作 法， 而 是 将 所 有 食 材 一 起 熬 煮 直 至 浓 稠， 各

式 美 味 交 融 成 绵 密 甘 美 的 汤 汁。 海鲜在传统广东菜中扮演举足 轻 重 的 角 色， 而 说 到 霍 总 厨 最 受 欢 迎的海鲜菜色则非杏香金沙焗龙虾 球 莫 属。 杏 仁 片 的 温 和 口 感 正 好 调 和 咸 香 四 溢 的 蛋 黄， 丰 厚 味 道 反

而 更 加 突 显 新 鲜 虾 肉 的 清 甜 滋 味。 满福楼虽以全新面貌登场，却从 未忘记发扬广东菜精华的初衷。精选 新鲜食材、尊重传统及勇于改良粤菜 的新颖作法正预示，满福楼全新盛世 势必华丽再临。 ode to italy

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presented by starworld hotel

无辣不欢

some like it hot

Executive Chinese Chef Chan Chak Keong 中菜行政总厨陈植强

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CHINA HAS A SAYING: “While the Sichuanese are never afraid of spicy food, the Hunanese are always afraid it won’t be spicy enough.”

Spice and heat are certainly central to the cooking of both Hunan and Sichuan, long celebrated among China’s eight regional cuisines, but each also offers an astoundingly wide spectrum of flavors and nuance. Perfect in the cold of winter, a steaming Sichuan or Hunan specialty, accompanied by a savory bowl of handmade Shanxi noodles, is guaranteed to gratify any lover of good food. The perfect place to find such a perfect combination is StarWorld Hotel’s Feng Wei Ju, whose stellar staff has teamed up to make sure that diners get the best of both worlds.

“We wanted to create a restaurant that would be able to tantalize the taste buds of guests from all over the world and give them an experience that would be truly memorable,” says Executive Chinese Chef Chan Chak Keong. Chan spent over a year traveling across China and sampling different cuisines before bringing together experts from Sichuan, Hunan, and Shanxi to complete Feng Wei Ju’s culinary team. “Chefs shouldn’t spend an entire career in one place!” he said. “They need to get out there and show off their talents.” Chan is making sure his select group of chefs does just that by putting their collective genius on display for all the world to taste.

中国有句俗话说 ： 「四川人不怕辣，湖南人 怕不辣」，川湘菜同属中国八大菜系，口味 虽都以辣为主，风味却是各具千秋。在此 寒冷冬夜，若能一尝热腾腾的川湘菜，再 配上一碗美味的山西面，肯定能让饕客大 呼过瘾。要享受这种双重美味，星际酒店 「风味居」绝对是不二之选，由四大名厨联 手呈现双重美食飨宴。 主掌「风味居」的总厨陈植强表示： 「我 们希望打造一个餐厅，能勾动每个人的味 蕾，无论来自五湖四海，每位客人都能吃 得尽兴又难忘。」陈总厨花费了超过一年的 时间，到全国各地寻访，到不同的餐馆品 尝名菜并进行对比，最终从四川、湖南和 山西选拔出心仪的人中骐骥，组成如今这 个实力超群的主厨团队。「当厨师不该一辈 子待在同个地方！要出去走一走，展现个 人所学厨艺。」他期待自己挑选的厨师团队 个个都能大显身手，一展绝活。 川菜师傅陈师的刀工极为精湛，调味 技巧敏锐而充满创新，让风味居川菜旋即 声名远播。陈师所做的菜，有些更需要运 用多达 20 种材料，强调「一菜一格，百菜 百味」，陈师傅的拿手川菜如蒜泥白肉、辣 子鸡丁等，入口感觉清鲜醇浓并重，更衬 托出辣味，老主顾更说，这里的菜吃一次 就上瘾。 花开两朵，各表一枝。与川菜有异曲 同工之妙的湘菜在「风味居」也毫不逊色。 湘菜师傅王敏在谈及川湘辣的差异时，说 ： 「四川是麻辣，湖南是香辣、麻辣，熏的带辣。 湖南的辣有时让人受不了，但就是越辣越

DAVID HARTUNG, COURTESY OF STARWORLD

Sparks fly when two of China’s spiciest cuisines meet at Macau’s hottest new dining experience, Feng Wei Ju at StarWorld Hotel.

Boiled Mandarin Fish Fillets in Hot Chili Oil 水煮飘香沸腾鱼

Head Sichuan Chef Chen Shi, with his precision knife skills and flair for innovative seasoning, is entirely in his element preparing the Sichuan specialties that Feng Wei Ju is fast becoming famous for. Some dishes contain up to twenty ingredients, the secret behind those cascading layers of taste. Pork Neck Meat with Hot Garlic Sauce and Deep-Fried Chicken Fillets with Red Chili and Peanuts offer complex flavor palettes—fresh, fragrant, and bright with spicy highlights. Repeat customers warn that a single sampling may prove habit forming.

Hunan cuisine shares some of the characteristics of Sichuan, but Feng Wei Ju brings out the very best of what makes the food of this region unique. “Like Sichuan, Hunan is often quite spicy, but along with that are sweet and sour notes and

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distinctively pungent aromas,” says Head Hunan Chef Wang Min. “While the dishes may be too hot for some, for those like the Hunanese, the spicier the better!” His highly commended Steamed Carp with Assorted Red Chilis is one of the stars of Feng Wei Ju’s menu. The fish is organically farmed in Dongting Lake and flown in fresh every day. Another favorite is Wang’s cured pork, smoked according to an age-old Chinese recipe. The lean cut, with a slight sweetness, is authentic Chinese homestyle cuisine at its simplest and most satisfying.

Li Shuan Xiang, Head Chef for noodles and dim sum, is a native of Shanxi. He studied the art of noodle making growing up there and has spent his life perfecting what many have pronounced the world’s best noodles. Expertly cooked and accompanied by his stir-fried ground pork in fermented

soybean paste, each bite bursts with flavor.

Li’s handcrafted noodles never break apart during cooking like those made by machine often do. Their toothsome texture and rich grain taste come from the select flour that Li imports from Inner Mongolia. They make the perfect visual and flavor companion for virtually any dish on the menu. Li also handles Feng Wei Ju’s traditional Northern Chinese breakfast menu, featuring Li’s handmade dumplings and pot stickers that keep guests feeling right at home.

When asked how Feng Wei Ju keeps all those patrons coming back for more, the chefs agree that the recipe is simple. In addition to an appealing environment and flawless service, “the food must be authentic, locally sourced, and based on honored tradition. And of course we never forget to put some spice in it.”

presented by starworld hotel

 Steamed Carp with Assorted Red Chili 江山一遍红

 Freshly made Northern Noodles 东北面点

 Deep-fried Chicken Fillets with Red Chili and Peanuts

COURTESY OF STARWORLD (4)

红袍辣子鸡

过瘾，湖南人的性格也是这样。」他隆重推 荐的「祖国江山一遍红（剁椒鱼头）」是「风 味居」招牌菜式之一，选用的鱼头更是直 接从湖南洞庭湖空运过来，保证原汁原味。 此外还有用传统制法烟熏而成的腊肉，味 道微甘，肥瘦适宜，浓浓的家乡味让人回 想起，儿时傍晚放学回家，饭桌上热气腾 腾的家常菜。 面食点心师傅李栓长是山西人，山西 面食素来享有全球第一的美誉，而李师傅 自幼在此学习和面做面，一辈子都在研究 如何让山西面更美味。他精心特选空运自 中国内蒙古的面粉进行纯手工搓面，经过 烹煮再搭配炸酱、小炒肉等佐料进食，口 感劲道十足，机器制作的面条易断易软， 手打面则截然不同，韧如皮筋不会断，富 有质感而味道细腻。白润的面条搭配菜单 上任何料理，都是色香味兼备的飨宴。李 师傅同时还负责餐厅内传统北方口味的早 餐，为食客提供如手工饺子、锅贴等早点， 一入口，宾客便能深刻感受如家乡般的温 暖滋味。 谈到为何「风味居」总能吸引食客再 度光顾的主因，主厨们一致认为菜色都很 家常简单，除了怡人的用餐环境和无可挑 剔的周到服务外，最重要的是 ： 「菜肴正宗 又地道，完全遵循传统作法，而且，还辣 的有滋有味！」 ode to italy

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葡萄牙顶级美酒飨宴

a toast to portugal’s best TK is partnering with prime venues in Macau to feature selected Portuguese wines by the glass this winter.

WINE SPECTATOR, in its influential annual list of the world’s top 100 wines,

众所瞩目的葡萄酒权威杂誌「Wine Spectator」公佈

came to some extraordinary, but well deserved, conclusions in 2014. Two of

2014 年百大排行榜，选出年度品质最佳、众望所归

the top four wines were reds from the Douro region of Portugal, and ranked

的佳酿。其中，前四名几乎都由葡萄牙所包办，除了

number one was a port from the spectacular 2011 vintage. For over a decade,

两款葡萄牙 Douro 地区所产红酒，第一名的宝座更是

it has been widely acknowledged that Portugal has been producing wines with an enviable price/quality ratio, but the Spectator results demonstrate that these wines now rank at the top in terms of sheer quality alone.

由品质绝佳的 2011 年波特酒拿下。过去十

BY ANNABEL JACKSON

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Macau is fortunate to be one of the few places outside Lisbon

DAVID HARTUNG

多年来，葡萄牙以生产物质上乘、价钱合 理的葡萄酒闻名，但随着年度排行榜出炉， 无疑成为当地葡萄酒出类拔萃品质的最佳 背书。

where it is possible to find a really good selection of Portuguese wines, including all the iconic ones from the country’s most talented

葡萄牙酒种最为齐全的地方之一，知名酒厂大作几乎

winemakers. This by-the-glass promotion, which covers all of Portugal’s main

通通喝得到。这次单杯推广活动把葡萄牙所有主产酒

wine regions, offers the exceptional opportunity to sample and compare the

区佳酿一网打尽，供品酒爱好者一一品尝，细细品味

country’s top labels side by side.

葡萄牙各家顶级葡萄酒的美味。

葡国餐厅 GUINCHO A GALERA ：

宝雅座 AUX BEAUX ARTS ：

金殿堂 IMPERIAL COURT ：

优雅氛围，新创风格

随性中见繁複细节，纯巴黎风

经典粤菜，神来一笔

来自葡萄牙沿岸冲浪重镇 Nazare

原汁原味的巴黎餐酒馆风再现，

把广东大菜和葡萄牙美酒凑在一

班妮 BENE ：

轻鬆惬意，经典意式风格 「班妮」意式餐厅团队可说迫不

的主厨 Martinho Moniz 烹制知

客人一杯好酒在手，可以尽情享

起，正巧是澳门风格的精髓所

及待，想和客人一起探索各式各

名鱼类料理，如 cataplana 海鲜

用经典法国菜。为此，主厨 Elie

在，而「金殿堂」的葡萄牙酒单

样的葡萄牙美酒，烘托自家纯正

盘等驾轻就熟，让传统地方菜

其丰富程度，在澳门称第二也少

意式料理的美妙滋味。Dão 产区

有其他餐厅敢说第一。中菜部行

的 2010 年 Quinta dos Roques

格，葡京酒店葡萄酒团队做足功

Khalife 特别选出 Alentejo 子产 区 Redondo 迅速窜红的明日之 星－ 2007 年 Herdade de São Miguel Reserva。这款味道厚

课，放得上名单的每一款酒无不 经过严格把关，最后推荐了三

吃得到顶级法式料理的高雅质

政副总厨黄昌料理风格天马行

Encruzado 由特级 Encruzado 白

空，像是龙虾点心、鱼子酱和以

葡萄製成，喝完留有一丝细腻的

重、辛香的酒由法国及地方种葡

木瓜装盛的双排翅汤都是他的招

核果后韵。搭配上桌的是铺上

萄混酿，于老橡木桶熟成后内含

牌菜。伴随味道丰富的吊烧鸭肝

现削 Parmesan 及 arugula 起司

款酒。第一款出自 Dão 地区备

高单宁，与牛颊肉意大利饺佐

金钱鸡一起享用的是 Dão 产区

的生牛肉盘，正巧与核果味道

受推崇的首席酿酒大师 Alvaro

红酒酱的浓郁气味搭配的恰到

相互呼应。品质卓绝的 Quinta

Castro 之手，2011 年 Quinta da Pellada Primus ；Douro 产区 Lemos & Van Zeller 酒庄的 2007 年 Curriculum Vitae 则是后劲十 足 ；以及 Jorge Moreira 美仑美

好处。同场也有 2010 年 Quinta

2010 年 Quinta de Cabriz Touriga Nacional。这款酒品质万中选

de Cabriz Touriga Nacional 及 2010 年 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova ‘Monte de Peceguina’ 可

一，带有辛香及鲜甜韵味。其他

年 Meandro 则是黑鳕的最佳拍

分杯酒则包括同样来自 Alentejo

档 ；载誉不断的 Douro 区经典

产区的 2010 年 Herdade da

分杯品评。

Malhadinha Nova ‘Monte de Peceguina’ 及 2007 年 Herdade de Sao Miguel Reserva。

酒款 2009 年 Quinta do Crasto Reserva 含高单宁、咖啡及熟成 暗色水果混和的口感，和 Bresse

感。为了搭配主厨鲜明的烹饪风

DAVID HARTUNG

澳门何其有幸，名列除了里斯本以外

奂的精品酒庄所产、优雅无比的

2008 年 Poeira。

do Vale Meão 第二品牌，2009

乳鸽胸佐柳橙及巧克力酱汁一起 享用味道更上一层楼。 ode to italy

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Pan-fried Pastel de Bacalhau and Goose Liver with Fruity Red Wine Sauce

GUINCHO A GALERA: elegant

AUX BEAUX ARTS: casual and

IMPERIAL COURT: classic

BENE: relaxed and

ambience, innovative style

sophisticated Parisian style

Cantonese with a spin

quintessentially Italian

Chef Martinho Moniz, who comes from the coastal surfing town of Nazare in Portugal, gives the country’s traditional cuisine the finesse of fine French food, and he’s particularly adept with fish dishes like the renowned cataplana. To match the élan of his culinary style, the Lisboa cellar team – who critically evaluate each wine before they list it – are offering three top entries. There’s Quinta da Pellada Primus 2011 from Alvaro Castro, widely regarded as the top winemaker in the Dão region. From the Douro comes the powerful Curriculum Vitae 2007 from Lemos & Van Zeller, and from Jorge Moreira’s beautiful boutique winery, the utterly elegant Poeira 2008.

Here is the authentic ambience of a Paris brasserie, where guests linger long over classic dishes with a glass of fine wine.

For this event Chef Elie Khalife singles out Herdade de São Miguel Reserva 2007, a rising star in the Redondo subregion of Alentejo. It is a dense and spicy wine, a blend of French and indigenous grapes matured in classic oak, with tannins that stand up to the heartiness of the dish he pairs it with – ravioli filled with braised beef cheek in a red wine sauce. The two other wines offered by the glass are Quinta de Cabriz Touriga Nacional 2010 and Herdade da Malhadinha Nova ‘Monte de Peceguina’ 2010.

Pairing Cantonese food with Portuguese wine is a quintessentially Macanese experience, and at Imperial Court the list of Portuguese wines is among the best in Macau. Executive Sous Chef of Chinese Cuisine Louie Wong’s cooking is uncommonly inventive, with dishes like lobster dim sum and caviar and double-boiled shark’s fin soup served in a papaya. Rich, caramel-flavored barbecued duck liver and pork skewers are matched with Quinta de Cabriz Touriga Nacional 2010, an excellent wine value from the Dão region with notes that are spicy and sweet. The other bythe-glass wines are Herdade da Malhadinha Nova ‘Monte de Peceguina’ 2010 and Herdade de São Miguel Reserva 2007, both from Alentejo.

The Bene team is excited to be exploring, along with their guests, the versatility of Portuguese wine paired with their authentic trattoria specialties. The Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2010 from Dão, made from the exceptional white Encruzado grape, has a delicate nutty finish. It brilliantly pairs with the beef carpaccio, served with shaved Parmesan and arugula that echo the nutlike after-notes. Meandro 2009, the super-quality second label of Quinta do Vale Meão, is the ideal complement for black cod. And the legendary Quinta do Crasto Reserva 2009 is a classic Douro with firm tannins and flavors of coffee and ripe dark fruit. It pairs perfectly with Bresse pigeon breast finished with an orange and chocolate reduction.

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

香煎马介休伴鹅肝配果香红酒汁

御苑餐厅 VIDA RICA ：

「当经典碰上现代」法式料理 谈到葡萄牙酒，酒店餐饮副总

御膳房 TASTING ROOM ：

花道 FADO ：

时尚当代法国菜

现代风传统葡式料理

法式料理及葡萄牙佳酿之餐酒搭

「花道」葡式餐厅保留传统葡萄

派意舫 PRIVÉ ：

精緻法式料理，徜徉美丽风光 「派意舫」法国餐厅用餐环境温

「葡萄 监 Mirko De Giorgi 表示 ：

配，和主厨 Guillaume Galliot「好

牙料理精华同时，也让每道菜

馨雅致，Chateaubriand 牛排等

种类之多让我非常惊艳。 」单杯

东西和好朋友分享」的想法不谋

以崭新当代风貌上桌。精心搭

经典菜色于桌边料理，发扬传统

白酒选择的是 Alentejo 所产经

而合，独具一格的创意料理，每

配的葡萄牙酒能和餐点相辅相

法国菜美味。这次轮到葡萄牙道

典酒款 2012 年 Paulo Laureano

每让客人惊艳不已。酒单由澳门

成，为彼此加分之际，也能带给

地美馔当主角，客人有机会在澳

Reserva Branco，酿製所用的葡

首席资深侍酒师 Adolphus Foo

客人最佳的享受。精选白酒为顶

门历史建筑及氛围环绕下，品嚐

萄种 Antão Vaz 极有韧性，能

打理，他强调 ： 「主要想让大家

级 Vinho Verde 酒代表之一，以

葡萄牙独特风土孕育出的各式

适应该地偶尔出现的沙漠般乾

看到，葡萄牙酒款除了非常适合

Alvarinho 葡萄所酿製的 2013 年

葡萄酒滋味。2010 年 Anselmo

旱气候。配合主厨 Dominque

搭配各式料理外，单杯品评也是

Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho，

Bugnand 的梦幻餐点，红酒则挑 Douro 产区首屈一指的 2007 年 Quinta do Vale Meão Douro 以 及来自 Douro 隔壁顶级橄榄油产 区，浓郁多汁、略带辛呛的 2010 年 CARM Douro Reserva。

不二选择。 」Alentejo 出产、带

使用的葡萄来自得天独厚的

Mendes Muros de Melgaco Alvarinho 喝得到蜜桃果香、矿物

矿物味的 2012 年 Pera Manca

Monção e Melgaço 子产区，为

味及酸度完美交融，单杯品嚐保

Branco 白酒正是足以堪此大任

葡萄牙最受推崇的白葡萄种类之

证是一大享受。另外还有紫罗兰

的好酒。Foo 也自该产区选了两

一。Douro 产区 2011 年的佳酿

香气袭人、高贵的 Beira 产 2007

款红酒，2010 年 fêted Esporão

则由 Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas

年 Quinta do Cardo Seleccão do

Reserva 及 2008 年 Quinta do

Reserva 代表出线，同时不能

Carmo Reserva，后者由当地

错过的还有 Barca Velha 1983

Aragonez 葡萄混和法国变种 Cabernet Sauvignon 及 Syrah 酿

产第一批餐酒，广受欢迎。

Enologo，以及 Touriga Nacional 和 Touriga Franca 葡萄种混酿、 Douro 酒区的 2009 年 Quinta do Vesuvio Pombal do Vesuvio。

Tinto。Barca Velha 为 Douro 所

造而成。

Seafood Rice with Boston Lobster, Crab, Shrimps and Clams 特式海鲜饭：波士顿龙虾、蟹、虾及蚬

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Barbecued Duck Livers and Pork Skewers

VIDA RICA: legendary-meets-

TASTING ROOM: stylishly

FADO: authentic Portuguese

PRIVÉ: boutique French with

contemporary French

contemporary French

with a modern slant

a beautiful view

“What fascinates me about Portuguese wine is the number of different grape varieties,” says the hotel’s Assistant Director of Food & Beverage, Mirko De Giorgi. Their by-theglass white selection is Paulo Laureano Reserva Branco 2012 from Alentejo, a classic wine made with Antão Vaz. This grape can handle the region’s sometimes desert-like conditions. The reds, perfect for pairing with the visionary cuisine of Chef Dominque Bugnand, are Quinta do Vale Meão Douro 2007, often ranked as the top wine from the Douro, and the juicy, spicy CARM Douro

Serving Portuguese wine with French food fits Chef Guillaume Galliot’s culinary ethos of sharing exhilarating dining discoveries with his guests. “We want to show that Portuguese wine can accompany many types of cuisine beautifully,” adds Adolphus Foo, one of Macau’s most experienced sommeliers, “and that it can be drunk all on its own by the glass as well.”

Pera Manca Branco 2012, from Alentejo, is a graceful white wine with minerality that certainly fits the bill. Foo is pouring two reds from this region, the fêted Esporão Reserva 2010 and Quinta do Carmo Reserva 2008, a fitting blend of local Aragonez grapes with the French varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Fado honors traditional Portuguese cuisine, but presents every dish with contemporary visual flair. Portuguese wine often comes as a revelation to guests when expertly paired to ensure that neither the food nor the wine is overshadowed by the other. The selected white is Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho 2013, a top Vinho Verde made with Alvarinho, one of Portugal’s noblest white grapes from the excellent subregion Monção e Melgaço. The fantastic 2011 vintage in the Douro is represented by the Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Reserva. And there’s a must-try: Barca Velha 1983 Tinto. Barca Velha was the first table wine to be produced in the Douro.

In the intimate surroundings of Privé, the traditions of French cuisine are honored, with such classics as Chateaubriand prepared at tableside. And now Macau’s Portuguese traditions are being celebrated with an opportunity to experience grapes from terroir unique to Portugal’s wine-growing regions, all against a backdrop of Macau’s historic buildings. The by-the-glass Anselmo Mendes Muros de Melgaco Alvarinho 2010 achieves a marvelous balance of peachy fruit, minerality, and acidity. Quinta do Cardo Seleccão do Enologo 2007 from the Beira region is an aristocratic, violet-infused wine, and Quinta do Vesuvio Pombal do Vesuvio 2009 from Douro is a classic blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.

Reserva 2010 from a neighboring property that also bottles a superb olive oil.

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

吊烧鸭肝金钱鸡

presented by banfi

布雷诺叙事曲

The Ballad of Brunello The history of a medieval Tuscan castle is intertwined with a local grape and the prized wine it yields.

Poggio alle Mura 宛如童话般的石堡，也就 THE STORYBOOK STONE FORTRESS of Poggio alle Mura, now known as Castello Banfi, was 是现称的邦菲城堡，位在蒙塔奇诺村庄西 built high on a hillside southwest of the vil南方的山丘上，始建于 1438 年。拥有着源 lage of Montalcino in 1438. Its origins are 远流长的历史，让这座古堡始终居高临下， far more ancient, but always it has looked 俯望托斯卡尼的动人景致与遍布的耀眼橄 out across the shimmering olive groves and 榄树林及葡萄园。而古堡附近的蒙塔奇诺 vineyards of the ravishing Tuscan landscape. 村庄，距离佛罗伦斯南方约 70 英里，这里 The nearby town of Montalcino, about sev风景如织，安宁平静，发展繁荣，然而村 enty miles south of Florence, is picturesque, 庄的命运并非始终如此顺遂。 peaceful, and prosperous. But things weren’t 自伊特拉斯坎文明时代以来，这个地 always so good. 区历尽风霜，曾受围攻、 佔 领， Ever since Etruscan times, 也经历派系斗争。突然爆发大灾 BY the fortunes of the region rose 难后通常会有较长的恢復期，才 JOHN FOY and fell as it endured siege, con让局势缓缓回復平稳，接着再出 quest, and factional conflict. A 现偶发零星的动乱。在中古时期， PHOTOGRAPHY BY sudden crisis might be followed 蒙塔奇诺村庄曾受到邻近的锡耶 DAVID HARTUNG by long periods of slow decline 纳城所统治，但后来遭佛罗伦斯 before an occasional upturn. In 统治者梅迪奇家族所 佔 领，因此往后的三 the Middle Ages Montalcino came under 个世纪都归佛罗伦斯所统治，直到 1861 年 the domination of nearby Siena, but it was 意大利统一为止。 eventually taken over by the Medici forces 在蒙塔奇诺村庄充满变动的历史 and remained under Florentine rule for more 中，唯一不变的是当地出产的布雷诺葡萄 than three centuries until the unification of （Brunello），意大利文指「小小的、深色的」， Italy in 1861. 现代研究显示布雷诺是珊吉欧维榭（Sangiovese）品种的品系之一，是在蒙塔奇诺山丘 One thing that has remained constant, however, is the local grape they call 上温暖的微气候中生长的品种，称为大珊 Brunello, or “little dark one,” a variety that 吉 欧 维 榭（Sangiovese grosso）， 此 处 温 度 modern research has shown to be a genetic 适宜该品种生长，因此总是能比邻近区域 clone of Sangiovese. The particular strain 提前一 週 收成。没有人能确定来自于蒙塔 that grows on the warm micro-terroirs of 奇诺的第一瓶葡萄酒何时出产，但可以肯 Montalcino’s hillsides is called Sangiovese 定的是，到了 14 世纪，这个产区的葡萄酒 grosso. Favorable temperatures mean the 已经冠上「布雷诺」的名称。 fruit can often be harvested a week ear自此之后，该区葡萄酒声名大噪，到 lier than in the surrounding regions. No 了 19 世纪，已成为托斯卡尼最负盛名的 one can say when the first wine began to 佳酿之一。而当地葡萄农 Clemente Santi， be made from these grapes in Montalcino, 在此时开始选取特定葡萄品种，酿造出蒙 but we do know that by the 14th century 塔奇诺产区第一瓶纯 Sangiovese 葡萄品种 red wines from the area were already going 酒， 他 的 孙 子 Ferruccio Biondi-Santi 延 续 by the name “Brunello.” 家族的创新传统于 1888 年生产出使用纯

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presented by banfi

The reputation of the wines continued to grow and by the early 19th century they were among the most highly regarded in Tuscany. Then a local grower, Clemente Santi, began selecting specific vines and created the first pure Sangiovese varietal wine from Montalcino. His grandson, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, continued the family’s innovation by producing in 1888 what has ever since been known as Brunello di Montalcino, a fine 100% Sangiovese varietal aged in oak.

By the end of WW2 the wine was very rare. Biondi-Santi’s firm, the only one making it, had declared just four vintages: 1888, 1891, 1925, and 1945. Gradually other growers began to enter production, with about twenty-five by the end of the ’60s. But it wasn’t until two brothers from the United States took an interest that Brunello di Montalcino reached the worldwide prominence it enjoys today.

John and Harry Mariani operated their

family’s import business, Banfi Vintners, from Long Island, New York. It was founded in 1919 by their father, John Sr., who had named the company after his beloved aunt, Teodolinda Banfi. As a boy, he had gone to live with her in Italy after the death of his father. She became household manager to Pope Pius XI, and she passed on her extensive knowledge of food and wine to her young nephew.

By the ’70s Banfi Vintners was importing millions of cases of a wildly popular fizzy wine, Riunite Lambrusco, for the American market. But John and Harry were scouting for an Italian venue for producing a really fine, serious wine. They found it in Montalcino, where they eventually purchased the medieval castle Poggio alle Mura and 7,100 surrounding acres on the southern end of the town. This estate they named Castello Banfi, and from it has issued a progression of Brunello di Montalcino wines that have continued to grow in stature.

The brothers approached the venture with energy, dedication, and ingenuity.

Working with the University of Milan, they identified more than 600 Sangiovese clones growing in Tuscany. Years of research narrowed the cornucopia to fifteen that were best suited to Montalcino’s soil and weather, and they were eager to share their results with the other local growers.

Banfi planted new vines in 1992 for its signature wine Poggio alle Mura, and as though the god Bacchus were blessing it, the first harvest was the legendary 1997 vintage.

More recent vintages are a continuing testament to the wisdom behind Banfi’s precise clonal selection and the underlying quality of the vineyards. The little dark grapes they yield have brought beautiful wines to Montalcino for centuries, and now they also bring prominence and prosperity.

John Foy is a wine writer based in New Jersey and is the founder of The Wine Odyssey. ode to italy

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presented by banfi

Sangiovese 葡萄製成、并于橡木桶中熟成的 高级品种酒， 即 Brunello di Montalcino 红酒。 二 次 大 战 结 束 时，Brunello di Montalcino 变得十分稀有，Biondi-Santi 是当时 唯一 製 造该酒款的酒庄，当时他们公布的 四款年份酒，分别是 ：1888 年、1891 年、 1925 年、1945 年。后来其他葡萄农也逐渐 开始生产此酒款，到 1960 年代末约有 25 家生产商。然而直到一对来自美国的兄弟 档对酿造 Brunello di Montalcino 产生同样 兴 趣，Brunello di Montalcino 才 成 为 世 界 闻名的酒款。 这对兄弟档便是 John Mariani 与 Harry Mariani，他们负责经营家族的进口事业， 即来自纽约长岛的 Banfi Vintners 公司，由 他 们 的 父 亲 John Sr. 于 1919 年 成 立， 取

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名为 Banfi，以纪念 John Sr. 最敬爱的阿姨 Teodolinda Banfi，小时候 John Sr. 父亲过世 后，便搬到意大利与 Teodolinda Banfi 同住， 后来阿姨成了教宗庇护十一世的管家，且 将丰富的美食美酒知识传承给年轻的 姪 子 John Sr.。 1970 年 代，Banfi Vintners 公 司 每 年 将上百万箱 Riunite Lambrusco 气泡酒进口 到美国，大受欢迎，同时 John 与 Harry 两 兄弟一直在意大利找寻适合生产高档葡萄 酒的地方。他们在蒙塔奇诺找到理想的地 点，后来买下 Poggio alle Mura 中古城堡以 及村庄南方 7,100 英亩的土地，将此庄园 命名为邦菲城堡，并在此生产 Brunello di Montalcino 葡萄酒，截至目前为止，这个 品牌知名度仍持续提升。

John 与 Harry 两兄弟在邦菲酒庄的创 业过程中，充满活力、热诚与巧思，他们 与米兰大学合作，找出托斯卡尼 600 馀种 Sangiovese 葡萄的品系，经过多年研究，发 现其中有 15 个品系最适宜蒙塔奇诺的土地 气候条件，他们也与当地葡萄农大方分享 这些研究成果。 1992 年，邦菲酒庄为了生产招牌 Poggio alle Mura 葡萄酒，开始种植新葡萄藤， 似乎是受到酒神庇佑，第一次 採 收便 製 成 1997 年经典年份酒。后来陆续推出的年份 酒，更是持续展现邦菲酒庄的酿酒哲学 ： 精确的品系选择和卓越的葡萄品质。蒙塔 奇诺所出产的葡萄体型小而色泽深，数世 纪以来孕育出无数绝美醇酿，现在也继续 为蒙塔奇诺带来繁荣与兴盛。

Poggio alle Mura Tasting Notes THE 2006 P OGGIO ALLE MURA was born from a majestic vintage. Nature delivered a hot but not scorching summer.

Rains fell in August and early September, just when the vines needed it. The sun’s warmth is captured in the rich blackberry aroma and flavor, and the velvety tannins and texture reflect the perfectly ripe and balanced grapes that were picked in that splendid fall harvest. If cellared properly, this wine promises decades of pleasure.

Sangiovese in the Brunello di Montalcino appellation rarely has back-to-back great vintages, but it ignored the rule in 2007.

These wines are ripe, delicious, balanced, but just a tad less structured than those of 2006. The 2007 displays the blackberry flavor of the 2006, but adds a dollop of black cherry – it’s slightly more approachable an hour after decanting. The 2006 Poggio alle Mura may well live longer when stored properly, but why concentrate on aging when such beauty beckons right now?

The 2008 Poggio alle Mura is neither like 2006 nor 2007.

The wine gods apparently needed a rest after delivering two outstanding vintages. The 2008 is a pretty wine – the fruit is pleasant, the tannins and acidity are mellowed. It’s nice to drink today, but it won’t love you tomorrow.

Summer of 2009 was hot all across Europe. The Tuscan sun baked the vineyards and the wines are filled with ripe fruit and soft tannins. The 2009 Poggio alle Mura is brimming over with blackberry and black cherry aromas, and it tingles the palate with white pepper and blackberry jam flavors. This wine is pure indulgent enjoyment.

The eagerly anticipated 2010 vintage, said to be one of the finest on record, will be released in the spring of 2015.

2006 年的 Poggio alle Mura 是品质不凡的年份 酒，当年的夏季温度高但不至于酷热，八月与 九月初都曾下雨，恰好是葡萄最需要雨水的时 机。酒中浓郁的黑莓香气与风味透露出当时盛 夏的温暖，醇厚的酒体与口感则展现秋季丰收 季节中完美熟成、 平衡的精选葡萄。若保存良好， 这瓶年份酒可保持数十年不走味。

Brunello di Montalcino 法 定 产 区 的 Sangiovese 品种葡萄，很少能连续两年产出高 品质的年份酒，但在 2007 年打破了这个惯例。 2007 的年份酒散发迷人的熟果香，平衡度十足， 虽层次感略逊于 2006 的年份酒，不过整体表 现难分轩姪，2007 年保有 2006 年的黑莓风味， 但更添浓醇黑樱桃香气，开瓶后一小时再饮用， 口感更为怡人。而 2006 年的 Poggio alle Mura 若保存良好，品质的保持期较长，但美酒当前， 又何需为保存问题伤神，不如举杯畅饮！

2008 年出产的 Poggio alle Mura 与前两年 大相迳庭，显然酒神在连续两年创造出色的年 份酒后，需要休憩片刻。2008 年的 Poggio alle

Mura 具有甘美的水果味，单宁与酸度平衡良好， 但很快就会走味。

2009 年 夏 天， 全 欧 洲 气 候 都 十 分 炎 热， 托斯卡尼各地葡萄园也受到豔阳炙烤，当年出 产的葡萄熟成度很高，酒中的单宁十分柔顺。

2009 年的 Poggio alle Mura 充满黑莓与黑樱桃 的香气，酒入喉后，味蕾还会残留白胡椒与黑 莓果酱的清香，堪称是大自然孕育出的奢华珍 酿飨宴。万众期待的 2010 年份美酒也将会于

2015 春季登场！ ODE TO ITALY | TK |

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艳阳下的葡萄园

A Place in the Sun Banfi winemaker Rudy Buratti met with Mark Hammons on the Banfi Estate in Tuscany to talk about the Sangiovese grape and how it finds its highest expression.

在意大利托斯卡尼的邦菲庄园内， 酿酒师 Rudy Buratti 与 Mark Hammons畅 谈当地珊吉欧维榭（Sangiovese）品种的 葡萄，和研究出品种内最佳酒色的方法。

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wine masters

Tell me about Poggio alle Mura project, which uses precise vineyard selection, manual harvesting, sorting by individual grapes and other boutique methods to produce Banfi’s finest cru. How did it begin?

Poggio alle Mura is a really special project. It’s what best expresses this company’s mission. It goes back to 1997, but the concept was already alive before then – Banfi’s philosophy has always been about research to achieve the highest quality. Poggio alle Mura came about through the cooperation of a team of winemaking and agronomy specialists working with universities in both Milan and Pisa.

Banfi produces 55,000 bottles of Poggio alle Mura annually, less than one percent of your total production, using a labor-intensive, artisanal approach. Is it a bit like how large corporations – say IBM or Google – set up smaller, independent working groups to encourage creativity?

We’re not big enough to be compared to Google! First, the team all agreed on some general principles, recognizing that every year the grapes are different and the rules need to be interpreted accordingly. One that never changes is that in the vineyard there are three clones of Sangiovese in specific areas that are best suited to each, another is that the wine must age in 350-liter barrels. But when should the grapes be harvested? How long is the maceration? That’s all decided year by year after seeing the raw material.

Has the work on Poggio alle Mura had an effect on the rest of your wines?

Absolutely. The whole structure of Italian wine production is like a pyramid. Within the Brunello appellation, there is Brunello ode to italy

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wine masters

DOCG at the top, then the DOC Rosso di

Montalcino, then the Tuscany IGT. The regulations were made with this approach in mind. Everyone produces varying levels of quality. It’s up to the oenologist with 3000 ha to understand which are the particular areas and vines that give higher or lower quality. At Banfi, we’re lucky enough to have a bit of everything. With a great many vines, we’re able to make a selection to achieve the best possible quality, even in a poor year like this one.

How would you describe Sangiovese to someone who isn’t familiar with the grape?

I’d say that Sangiovese is the Italian grape, together with Nebbiolo. When foreigners think about Italian wines, they often think Pinot Grigio and Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo is the basis for Barolo, and Sangiovese for Chianti and Brunello. Sangiovese is widespread from the Alps to Sicily, but there are many differences. Only in Tuscany, in the Chianti region and Montalcino, has Sangiovese achieved spectacular results. So you can’t talk about Sangiovese without reference to the place where it comes from. Brunello, which is the Sangiovese grown here, and Montalcino. It’s the two things together that make a great wine.

What’s the difference between the wines from this Sangiovese, Brunello, and Sangiovese that comes from other parts of Italy?

The Montalcino area expresses Sangiovese qualities at their best. It’s not an easy grape to grow or to make great wines from. You need a poor, lean soil, the Mediterranean climate, a producer philosophy that can tolerate moderate yields, and the proper vinification and aging. Here the wines benefit from longer aging – they’re very austere, tannic, and acidic when young, so they need time to ripen. That’s why the laws regulating the Brunello appellation require a minimum of five years.

What have you learned about Sangiovese after thirty-one years at Banfi?

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Sangiovese is like the Tuscan people, argumentative and rebellious. It’s always fighting the agronomist and the winemaker; you need to find a way to control it, and when you do it is extraordinary, just like the Tuscans.

Is it true that Brunello di Montalcino was “invented”?

It was born in 1888, created by BiondiSanti. That family is very important because they brought it up to modern times through two world wars and the catastrophe of phylloxera, the aphid that devastated European vines. Biondi-Santi was still making Brunello at the end of WW2, but production was extremely limited. The wine became world famous because two major things came together – its heritage through the Biondi-Santis and what we call the Banfi effect, the ability to introduce it to people who hadn’t known it before.

Banfi began exporting this wine to one of the most important markets, the US. Finally, the designation of the appellation united all the Brunello producers on the export market, creating a force to compete with wines from America, New Zealand, and so on.

What does the future hold for Banfi?

We are a young company, and our goal remains what it has always been – the pursuit of excellence. You’ll pick this up just by going around the vineyards and the cellar or by talking to anyone in the company. We’re always researching new ways to improve the quality within our land. It has so many varied types of soil and exposures, and these differences are actually a resource to us – seeking excellence within these differences is our job. Either you accept the challenge or you find another job! You’re not an accountant dealing with numbers, you’re dealing with something that is alive and changing. So there must be the spirit of innovation, but always with a deep respect for continuity and tradition. There’s a beautiful saying from a French oenologist: “A tradition is simply a carefully maintained innovation.”

能谈谈 Poggio alle Mura 研究计画吗？ 计画自 1997 年运作，但研究想法存在 许久，邦菲酒庄坚信唯有深入研究才能创 造最高品质，故网罗酿酒业与农学界多位 专家，在两位发起人的带领下，与米兰大 学和比萨大学共同合作研究。 贵 酒 庄 每 年 出 产 55,000 瓶 Poggio alle Mura，但采用精品式的酿制方法，是否有 点类似 IBM 或 Google 等设置独立小组以 激发创新想法的策略？ 我 们 的 规 模 还 不 足 以 跟 Google 相 比 呢！团队首先需要认同某些原则，如年产 葡萄质量不同，酿酒方式需依据当年度的 情况调整，我们每年会在葡萄园中选择最 适合的区域，分别种植三种品系的 Sangiovese 葡萄，另外葡萄酒须在 350 公升的木 桶中熟成。至于葡萄的采收与浸泡时间， 亦依据年产葡萄状况决定。 Poggio alle Mura 的生产会影响庄园其他 葡萄酒的生产方式吗？ 当 然 会！ 意 大 利 葡 萄 酒 的 酒 品 分 级 架 构 就 像 是 金 字 塔， 在 布 雷 诺 葡 萄 酒（Brunello） 法 定 产 区 中， 最 高 级 的 是 Brunello DOCG，次一级是 DOC Rosso di Montalcino， 再 次 一 级 则 是 Tuscany IGT， 政府也依循此架构制订法令。3000 公顷的 广袤土地上，哪些地区与品种能产出何种 品质的葡萄酒，这就让酿酒学家来伤脑筋。 而邦菲酒庄非常幸运，葡萄园中可说囊括 所有品种的葡萄，即使遇到今年这样的歉 收年，仍能酿造出最优质的葡萄酒系列。 对不熟悉 Sangiovese 品种的人，你会如何 介绍？ 我 会 说，Sangiovese 是 最 能 代 表 意 大 利的品种，另外还有内比欧露（Nebbiolo）。 提到意大利葡萄酒，外国人立刻想到灰皮 诺（Pinot Grigio） 和 Nebbiolo，Nebbiolo 是酿造巴罗洛红酒（Barolo）的基础，而 Sangiovese 则 是 酿 造 奇 扬 地（Chianti） 和 布雷诺（Brunello）葡萄酒。Sangiovese 的 种植区从阿尔卑斯山脉绵延到意大利西西 里，但是只有在托斯卡尼的奇扬地和蒙塔 奇诺产区的 Sangiovese 葡萄才具有非凡品 质，所以 Sangiovese 品种一定要说明产区。 蒙塔奇诺产区加上布雷诺葡萄（Sangiovese 葡萄品系之一）就能产出品质上等的佳酿。

Sangiovese is like the Tuscan people, argumentative

and rebellious. You need to find a way to control it, and

when you do it is extraordinary, just like the Tuscans.

布雷诺葡萄跟其他意大利产区的 Sangiovese 葡萄有什麽不一样？ 蒙塔奇诺产区的 Sangiovese 葡萄最具 代表性，但并不好种，也不易酿出好酒。 首先需具备某些条件，包含贫瘠的土地与 地中海型气候，酿酒商还必须能承受低产 量的风险，采用适当的酿造熟成方式。这 里的葡萄需要较长的熟成时间，刚采收的 Sangiovese 葡 萄 单 宁 成 分 高， 乾 涩 微 酸， 需要时间熟成，布雷诺产区的法定熟成时 间则是五年。布雷诺红酒之所以独树一格， 主要归因于上述葡萄品种、风土条件、酿 酒商理念等因素。 您 已 在 邦 菲 酒 庄 服 务 31 年 之 久， 对 于 Sangiovese 的认识为何？ Sangiovese 的 性 格 好 辩 又 叛 逆， 总 是 跟农学家和酒庄作对，但只要找对方法， 它便能展现卓越不凡的成果。 有人说 Brunello di Montalcino 是「发明」 出来的葡萄酒？ 1888 年 Biondi-Santi 家 族 酿 出 第 一 瓶 Brunello di Montalcino，这个家族曾历经两 次世界大战，遭遇过重创欧洲葡萄酒业的 根瘤蚜虫害，但仍成功让其的生命延续到 现代。二战即将结束时，Biondi-Santi 家族 仍 持 续 酿 造 Brunello di Montalcino， 但 产 量极为有限，这款葡萄酒举世闻名，原因 在于结合 Biondi-Santis 的家族传承和所谓 的 Banfi 效应，也就是让人们接受原先未知 事物的能力。Banfi 家族率先将这款酒出口 到美国，最后，布雷诺法定产区的所有生 产商也都进入出口市场，成为与美国、纽 西兰等国的葡萄酒抗衡的新势力。 能否谈谈邦菲酒庄未来的展望？ 我们是活力十足的酒庄，追求卓越品 质是始终如一的目标。只要到葡萄园或酒 窖走一圈，或是跟酒庄人员聊个天，就能 体会到这个目标。我们不断寻找能提升品 质的新方法，本产区的土质与日晒程度差 异很大，但要在差异性中追求卓越品质， 无法接受挑战就得改行！在这里，你不是 处理数字的会计师，你必须面对有生命、 不断改变的作物，须同时具备创新精神， 及对传统与传承的绝对尊重。一位法国酿 酒学家说得好 ： 「传统就是悉心维持的创 新。」 ode to italy

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presented by johnnie walker

行礼如仪

elegant rituals The end of the day at one of Hong Kong’s chicest dining venues is the perfect time to meet the inspiration behind it and relax with a digestif of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

WALKING INTO THE STRIKING space which is SEVVA is like entering a very refined private home, with walls covered in works of art personally chosen by the owner. High on a top floor of Prince’s Building, SEVVA is divided into several sophisticated dining rooms, lounges, and bars, each one reflecting the characteristic charm and taste of Hong Kong’s very own arbiter of style, Ms. Bonnae Gokson.

Ms. Gokson is founder of SEVVA and the visionary behind it. Fashionably chic in a cool ivory ensemble, she joins some of her trusted team members in a serene area called the Lounge. One of the secrets of its tranquility is a vertical garden, a unique living wall of lush green plants. This and the muted color scheme make the Lounge an ideal place to pause and unwind.

SEVVA’s evening service has just finished as Ms. Gokson stops to greet General Manager Eric Chu, Executive Chef Albert Wong, and Food & Beverage Manager Joseph Chan.

The easy camaraderie among the three as they sit down to relax reflects the mutual respect the entire staff have for each other’s roles, whether in the office, the kitchen, or on the restaurant floor. With classical arias setting the mood, the time has come to savor a glass of mellow, aromatic whisky – Johnny Walker Blue Label.

They pour one for Ms. Gokson, who has dropped by to express her admiration ode to italy

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Executive Chef Mr. Albert Wong 行政总厨黄加忠先生

走进装潢大胆鲜明的 SEVVA 餐厅，彷彿 步入一幢高雅精致的私人住家，牆壁上可 见各式由餐厅创办人亲自挑选的艺术品。 SEVVA 餐厅位于太子大厦的顶楼，整体划 分为数个高雅的用餐包厢、沙发座位区和 吧台，充分展现出这位堪称引领香港潮流 的先驱，餐厅创办人郭志怡女士独特的个 人魅力与品味 . 郭志怡女士是 SEVVA 餐厅的创办者与 发想者，今晚她身穿一袭冷色调的象牙白 连身裙，与自己最信赖的餐厅团队成员一 同聚坐在宁静幽雅的沙发座位区。 营造出 餐厅宁静气氛的秘密道具，便是这一整片 种满翠绿植物的独特垂直景观牆，再搭配 此区装潢的沉静色调，非常适合坐下来静 心回顾思考。 今晚郭志怡女士来探访餐厅总经理朱 汝坤、行政总厨黄加忠和餐饮部经理陈兆 云。在她走进来之前，餐厅才刚打烊，三位 成员坐在沙发上放鬆心情，閒话家常，展 露极为融洽的情谊，且可看出他们对彼此 在办公室、厨房、外场职务的相互尊重，

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在如此舒适恬静的环境中，最适合啜饮一 杯圆润醇厚、香气十足的威士忌 — 尊尼获 加蓝牌威士忌。 他们替郭女士斟上一杯威士忌，她今 晚专程到此对这几位得力助手表达敬意 ： 「虽然我是 SEVVA 的创办人，而且许多事 都亲力亲为，却并非每晚都在此工作，而 我的团队非常出色，不论餐厅多么忙碌都 能掌控得宜，还十分胜任，彼此相处愉快。 其实无论白天或晚上，SEVVA 的用餐人数 通常都很多，而且佔地宽广，包括两间包 厢和一个沿着太子大厦顶楼的完整边缘所 建的户外用餐区，可以说员工的工作充满 挑战性。」 郭女士强调团队成员间建立良好沟通 的重要性，她说 ： 「 前线团队每天早上都 开一次会议，开始工作前做一次简报，晚 餐前再做一次完整的简报，绝对保证前线 与后台之间精准的配合。」 「我们提供多国菜色，包含中式、欧式 料理，还有印度菜等等，SEVVA 多元丰富 的菜色，映现出香港接受各种历史与文化

的影响。料理选择众多，同时表示厨房裡 会非常忙碌，餐厅营业时每位工作人员的 肾上腺素随时都处于激增状态，且场内声 音嘈杂、步调快速。一想到他们日日夜夜 都得面临这麽多挑战，我觉得必须向他们 脱帽致敬。我敢肯定，每晚等上百名客人 心满意足地跨出门口后，大伙儿肯定是鬆 了一大口气。」 SEVVA 吸引众多外国旅客、本地商务 人士、艺术家、音乐家和名人贵宾，还有 香港三代的社会名流。餐厅每个区域都有 独树一格的装潢，摆设许多令人赞叹的艺 术品。Harbourside 用餐区坐拥维多利亚港 的景色，拱状屋顶垂下万朵手工缝製的丝 质花朵。Bankside 用餐区内高牆陈列国际 知名摄影大师 Candida Höfer 的巨幅作品， 在此可以俯瞰香港许多主要的大厦建筑， 宾客可以坐在落地窗前，或是在宽敞的露 台上，将海景与香港九龙的天际线尽收眼 底，这裡还摆设充满时尚感的舒适沙发以 及现代流行艺术风格的餐桌。 SEVVA 具有多元丰富的氛围与调性，

presented by johnnie walker

General Manager Mr. Eric Chu 总经理朱汝坤先生

宾客都深深为其魅力所折服，而且他们都 想品尝郭女士所设计的美味法式甜点，有 些人选择当作下午茶好好享受，有些人则 是在晚餐后稍微放纵一下，尝尝可口的饭 后甜点。郭女士很坚持用餐一定要「行礼 如仪」，她说 ： 「晚餐绝对不能省略的仪式 就是甜点！ SEVVA 的招牌甜点与众不同， 像是热门的『玛丽皇后蛋糕』一送上餐桌， 其他客人便会纷纷向你行注目礼，让享用 甜点的客人心情特别愉快。」 「在 SEVVA 常有练习行礼如仪的机会， 比如在这布置优雅的环境下享用一杯飘香 四溢的泡茶。许多客人会在晚餐前驻足于 露台区，品尝一杯餐前酒，再到包厢用餐， 有人则是在用完餐后，从餐桌移驾到吧台 区或沙发区，啜饮餐后酒。享用美味的晚 餐后，我都会来一杯餐后酒，来庆祝一天 的完结，也许是回顾一日的忙碌，花点时 间好好回想整天发生的事，并以优雅的姿 态欣赏这一天，这真的很重要，我喜欢细 细品尝每口啜饮，就如同我专心体会人生 的每时每刻一样。」

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“ It’s always important to take time to reflect on the day that has passed and to celebrate it with grace. 花点时间好好回想整天发生的事，并以 优雅的姿态欣赏这一天，这真的很重要 。” for the team’s performance. “Although I’m owner and very hands-on in everything at SEVVA, I myself am not here every night – my teams are more than capable of handling even the busiest ones on their own.

We‘re pretty packed most days and nights – our venue is rather large, with two dining rooms and a terrace along the entire block of Prince’s Building – so the task for our staff is enormously challenging.”

Ms. Gokson stresses the importance of good communication between teams. “My front-of-house team has morning discussions and a briefing before they start work, then another full briefing before dinner.

Coordination between front-of-house and back-of-house has to be spot on, always.

“We offer a global cuisine of Chinese, European, and Indian selections. SEVVA reflects all the historical and cultural influences on Hong Kong that inspire the diversity of dishes we offer our guests. To create so many choices means there’s a lot going on at the same time in the kitchen. During service at SEVVA, adrenaline is high, the buzz is strong, and everything moves really fast. I take my hat off to all my staff, knowing they go through these challenges day after day and night after night. I’m sure at the end of the day it’s a great relief when everything has been done so well to keep our hundreds of customers satisfied.”

SEVVA attracts a mixture of international visitors, local business people, artists, musicians, VIP dignitaries, as well as three generations of Hong Kong’s society elite.

Each area has its own sensitively chosen décor, including truly stunning pieces of

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art. Harbourside is an airy dining room with a vaulted ceiling completely covered in countless handmade silk flowers. Bankside is hung with grand scale Candida Höfer photographs. Views of iconic Hong Kong buildings and the waterfront with the Kowloon skyline are seen through full length windows or from the dramatic and spacious terrace, furnished with comfortable, stylish sofas and modern pop-art tables.

The variety in mood and energy levels of the different spaces makes SEVVA irresistible to both older and younger customers.

But all of them want to sample Ms. Gokson’s extraordinary patisserie, whether taken with afternoon tea or enjoyed as the indulgent finale to dinner. Ms. Gokson insists on the importance of preserving the “elegant rituals” of dining. “One ritual that’s a must is dessert! No others are like SEVVA’s signature desserts. Often, as one of our Marie-Antoinette’s Crave cakes goes to a table, heads will turn – guests are simply delighted!

“There are so many opportunities to practice elegant rituals at SEVVA. A simple thing like taking a cup of perfectly infused tea can be quite transporting in a setting like ours.

Many guests will have a before-dinner drink on the terrace before being seated in one of our dining rooms. Others will retire from the table to the bar, terrace, or lounge for a digestif. At the end of a fine dinner I always enjoy having one. It could be a celebration of the day gone by or just unwinding from a hectic one. But it’s always important to take time to reflect on the day that has passed and to celebrate it with grace. I like to savor each sip as I savor the moment.”

Founder of SEVVA, Ms. Bonnae Gokson SEVVA 创办人郭志怡女士

presented by johnnie walker

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SUBSCRIBE 25% off

$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Café Bela Vista 荟景阁咖啡室 International 2/F Grand Lapa, Macau, 956-1110 Avenida Da Amizade, Macau 澳门友谊大马路956-1110号金丽华酒店2楼 q +853 8793 3871 Daily: 6:30-22:00 Mon to Thu: Closed 15:00-18:00 A Smart Casual

q +852 2167 8200

Daily: 12:00-00:00

5

Le Calandre Italian Via Liguria, 1, 35030 Sarmeola di Rubano, PD, Italy q +39 049 633000 Lunch: Wed to Sat: 12:00-14:00 Dinner: Tue to Sat: 20:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

A Smart Casual

Giando Italian Restaurant & Bar 5

Fenwick Pier, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔龙景街1号分域码头海军商场1楼 q +852 2511 8912

Daily: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-until late A Smart Casual

Grissini 5

1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

5

Da Vittorio Italian Via Cantalupa, 17, 24060 Brusaporto BG, Italy q +39 035 681024 A Smart Casual 5

Dynasty 满福楼 Cantonese 3/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道1号万丽海景酒店3楼 q +852 2584 6971 Lunch: Mon to Sat: 12:00-15:00 Sat & PH: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: Daily: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Feng Wei Ju 风味居

Italian 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong,

Carbone Hong Kong New York-style Italian 9/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, Hong Kong 香港中环兰桂坊云咸街33号LKF Tower 9楼 q +852 2593 2593 Mon to Sat: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-until late A Smart Casual

Italian 1/F The Fleet Arcade, 1 Lung King Street

香港湾仔港湾道1号香港君悦酒店2楼 q +852 2584 7722

Mon to Thur: 12:00 -14:30; 19:00-22:30 Fri to Sun: 12:00-14:30; 18:30-22:30 (Closed on Sat) A Smart Casual

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia

Modern Italian Via Stella, 22, 41121 Modena MO, Italy q +39 059 223912 Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:30-13:30 Dinner: Mon to Sat: 20:00-21:30 A Smart Casual

RIVA and The Deck Western 27/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay,Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号柏宁酒店27楼 q +852 2839 3327 Daily: 12:00-15:00, 18:00-00:00 A Smart Casual 5

Saffron 尚坊

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩

SEVVA

Via Privata Raimondo Montecuccoli, 6, 20147 Milano, Italy q +39 02 416886

Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:30-14:00 Dinner: Mon to Sat: 19:30-22:30

5

Chinese – Cantonese 2/F The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道2楼 q +853 8868 2822

Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00

Gaia Ristorante

Pizzeria I Tigli

Italian G/F The Piazza, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong 香港上环皇后大道中181号新纪元广场低 座地下

Osteria Francescana 5

A Smart Casual

Italian

Sichuanese and Hunanese 5/F, StarWorld Hotel, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店5楼 q +853 8290 8668 Daily: 11:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

5

French 6/F Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16, Rua do Visconde Paco de Arcos, Macau 澳门内港巴素打尔古街十六浦索菲特酒 店6楼 q +853 8861 7240 Wed to Sun: 18:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

Thai G/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」 综合渡假城澳门悦榕庄地下大堂 q +853 8883 6061 Daily: 7:00-15:00；18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

5

A Smart Casual

5

Privé 派意舫

Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers ankle-deep with closed footwear.

Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

Via Camporosolo, 11, 37047 San Bonifacio VR, Italy q +39 045 610 2606

Thu to Tue: 12:00-16:00; 19:00-23:00

5

International 25/F Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Hong Kong 香港中环遮打道10号太子大厦25楼 q +852 2537 1388 Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:00-14:30 Sat: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: Mon to Wed: 18:00-22:30 Thur to Sat: 18:00-1:00 A Smart Casual or Easy-Glam 5

Tosca Italian Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍柯士甸道西1号环球贸易广场(ICC) 香港丽思卡尔顿酒店102楼 q +852 2263 2270 Mon to Sat: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 Sun: 11:00-15:00；18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

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presented by sofitel macau

佳餚美酒 爱侣相伴

wining, dining, valentining France and romance fill the air as Privé at Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16 announces a special evening. 在 2 月 14 日这个重要时刻，情侣们需要一个幽静温馨的约 会地点，而满足条件的首选就是位於澳门十六浦索菲特酒店 的「派意舫」法国餐厅。这个光听名字就令人心生嚮往的餐 厅，拥有如同珠宝盒般精緻亲暱的用餐空间，在特別日子里，

提供有情人们独一无二的美味套餐及无懈可击的餐酒搭配。 「派意舫」情人节当日，客人能在点点光影下享用烛光晚餐， 就坐的木质餐桌透出光泽，带来丝丝暖意。闲静氛围中，偶而 抬起头可沿窗缘望出，一瞥旧城区的美景。「派意舫」的其中 一大特色乃席前烹調展示，桌边准备的餐点美味雅緻、令人惊 喜连连。充满浓浓法式风味的季节菜单出自行政主厨 Vincent

Rouillé 之手，新鲜、大胆且充满原创性，长年备受顾客青睐， 而他这次更是推陈出新，推出极致美味的法式情人节大餐。 情人节当晚， 从开胃菜到饭后小点亦每每令情人欢欣期待， 包括香气十足的焦糖布丁佐鹅肝、乾煎法式扇贝、红宝蜜桃冰 糕及炙烧蓝鳍鲔鱼腹肉，让人无法抗拒。美味剧情 随着甜点上桌攀至最高潮，黑巧克力饼、复盆 莓百汇、巧克力慕斯及布列塔尼饼乾为大餐 划下完美句点。倒上一杯有皇室香槟美誉 的 Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial， 伴 随乾杯发出的清脆声响，接下来的发

+853 8861 7213, www.sofitelmacau.com

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展就自不待言了！

COURTESY OF SOFITEL MACAU (4)

FEBRUARY 14 is a date reserved for that secluded rendezvous for two, and just one spot will do. Its name, Privé, says it all – an intimate, jewel-box dining room, where a unique menu and exceptional wine pairings will be offered on that amorous day.

Love can come to anyone, especially to those who will be seated at glittering, candlelit tables in the warm, wood-paneled glow of a serene space with windows that frame sweeping views of the Old City. Privé is renowned for its signature service that features gracious and dramatic preparation of dishes at tableside. Executive Chef Vincent Rouillé, creator of a French-inspired seasonal and tableside cuisine known for freshness, daring, and ingenuity the year round, has outdone himself with a French Valentine of a menu.

Flirtatious whisperings and secret exchanges are entirely to be expected, but things get really serious as each irresistible course – from amuse bouche to mignardises – arrives: savory crème brûlée with foie gras, pan fried French scallop, ruby peach sorbet, seared bluefin tuna loin.

The drama climaxes with a dessert of dark chocolate tuile, raspberry parfait, chocolate mousse, Brittany biscuit. And once the Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial is poured and glasses clink, who can say what may develop?

presented by hofex

全球聚焦

growing global With over 2,400 international exhibitors and 44 nationally sponsored pavilions, HOFEX 2015 promises a truly world class show.

THE LATEST EDITION of Asia-Pacific’s most prestigious food and hospitality tradeshow, HOFEX 2015, runs May 6-9 at the Hong Kong Convention and

亚太地区首屈一指的餐饮酒店设备大展 HOFEX 将于 2015 年 5

Exhibition Centre. Building on its twenty-eight year reputation, the event is projected to draw over 40,000 trade visitors from around the world, eager to see, sample, and buy the latest trends in the industry. The majority will be hoteliers, restaurant owners, caterers, purchasing managers, and chefs.

The show just keeps growing—it will sprawl over 14 exhibit halls and cover 65,000 m², displaying an overwhelming variety of up-to-the-minute products and services related to food, beverages, equipment, supplies, and hospitality technologies.

Responding to the region’s expanding tourism and rising demand, the event will highlight Asia’s first “prime meat show,” MEAT@HOFEX, with over

HOFEX 已然成为业界一大盛会，明年预计有超过 2,400 家国际

eighty international exhibitors featuring their premier meat products from Europe, the UK, the US, and Japan. Master butchers will demonstrate their art, including a Wagyu beef cutting seminar at the Japan Pavilion. Awards will be presented to winners of the Butchery Skills Challenge and the 4th Spanish Ham Slicing Competition.

Informative sessions will bring the latest from every field in the industry: Regional Hotel General Managers Forum, Hospitality Technology Conference, Asian Club Managers’ Conference, Hospitality Design Forum, Wine Forum. And the eagerly anticipated competitions include the HK International Culinary Classic, Barista Championship@HOFEX, and the HK International Wine Challenge.

This HOFEX 2015 happens in Hong Kong but encompasses the globe.

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月 6 日至 9 日于香港会展中心盛大举行。即将迈入第 16 届的 参展商到会共襄盛举，吸引超过 4 万名来自世界各地的参观者， 其中大多数来自酒店、餐厅、外烩业者、採购经理及厨师等专 业买主将于展会期间一睹最新趋势、抢先体验且採购产品。 HOFEX 的规模逐年扩大，2015 年展会横跨 14 个展馆，广

达 65,000 平方公尺的空间将展出五花八门、时下引领潮流的 产品及服务，食品、饮料、设备和各类用品，此外餐饮最新科 技也应有尽有。 因应亚洲地区急速成长的旅游业商机及庞大需求，明年展 ， 会也将强打亚洲首个「亚洲首届高级肉类展 - Meat@HOFEX」 参与其中的八十多家国际大厂将展出欧洲、英国、美国及日本 等地的顶级肉类产品。日本国家馆则会举办和牛讲座，由资深 大厨现场示范刨刀解牛的高超技术，同时举行的「屠宰技术挑 战赛」及「第四届西班牙火腿切片大赛」也精彩可期，获胜者 将获颁奖座肯定。 HOFEX 也会举办一系列趋势论坛，从不同面向切入，带

来业界最新资讯，包括「亚太区酒店总经理高峰会」 、 「亚洲酒 店及款待服务科技会议」 、 「香港会所管理协会会议」 、 「酒店设 计会议」及「国家名酒巡礼日」 。另外， 「香港国际美食大奖」 「咖 、 啡师大赛＠ HOFEX」和「香港国际美酒大赛」等受到高度瞩目 的竞赛也将同步登场。 香港 HOFEX 2015 大展，让您纵观世界。

HOFEX 2015: 6 – 9 MAY 2015 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Visitor Registration Starts in February 2015 at www.hofex.com

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DAVID HARTUNG

dessert

Paolo Monti, Group Executive Chef at Gaia Restaurant Group, brightens the season with a dessert “snowball” in a globular glass. It features Fragola di Bosco, the tiny strawberry from the woodlands of the Italian Alps. Completing the confection are fresh whipped cream flavored with the berries, custard cream, and sponge cake infused with Alchermes. This liqueur contains vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and its brilliant red color is traditionally derived from the kermes insect.

Gaia餐厅集团行政总厨Paolo Monti 为这季节带来这道置于球状玻璃容器中的 「雪球」甜点。甜品采用了起源于意大利西北部的高山林地「Fragola di Bosco」野草莓, 搭配新鲜草莓味忌廉、蛋奶沙司和加入意大利利口酒(Alchermes)的海绵蛋糕。

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Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com