TK16 Sunday Rituals

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 16

S U N D A Y

K I T C H E N R I T U A L S

CENTRAL

Six on Sunday 周日六重奏 LAN KWAI FONG

Plant-based Pleasures 味蕾的草本飨宴

BANGKOK

Brunch Sanctuary 早午餐圣地

DAVID HARTUNG

starter

From Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon at City of Dreams Macau comes this baked abalone and chicken tartlet. Puff pastry lines a small oval mold. A filling of sautéed diced chicken thigh meat and mushrooms is combined with abalone sauce containing Kam Wah ham, chicken, dried scallops, and pork rib meat. The tart is filled, baked, and then topped with a morsel of baby abalone and another spoonful of sauce. 由澳门新濠天地誉珑轩行政总厨谭国锋师傅带领的点心师团队造就了这道原只鲍鱼鸡粒酥。千层酥皮面团 环绕卵形小模的四周，由嫩煎鸡腿肉块和蘑菇制成的内馅与混合金华火腿、鸡肉、干扇贝和猪肋肉的特 制鲍鱼酱完美结合。填入内馅烘烤出炉后，再放上一口鲍鱼，淋上一大匙的酱料，即大功告成。

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T A S T I N G 16

S U N D A Y

K I T C H E N R I T U A L S

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 1001, Apec Plaza, 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Barbra Austin

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Mamie Hsien Chen

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Chris Dwyer

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Gerrie Lim

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Lucy Morgan

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Kate Nicholson

TRANSLATION SERVICES

Icy Ip

Jane Wong

Jane Ram

Babel Communications

CHINESE EDITOR

ACCOUNTANT

Victoria Lei Zita Un

Terrie Lam

Inara Sim CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

PRINTING Asia One Printing 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION One Logistics +852 5110 3084

Chef Frederic Chabbert of Mano creates this Oeufs au Caviar using organic egg yolk poached at low temperature, golden Kristal caviar from the kaluga sturgeon, and pickles and seaweed to add kick and textural contrast.

Read more about Chef Frederic Chabbert starting on page 32.

Mano 餐厅主厨Frederic Chabbert 制作这道佳肴名为Oeufs au Caviar（鸡蛋 鱼子酱），采用了低温料理的有机蛋黄、卡卢加鲟鱼的Kristal 鱼子酱、再佐 以腌黄瓜和海苔让味蕾为之一振。欲了解更多关于主厨Chabbert的創作料 理，请翻阅本刊第32页。 Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen 2015 All rights reserved

publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Sunday Rituals, TK savors some culinary experiences that can only be enjoyed over a leisurely weekend.

We talk with the “nose” of Nespresso to learn how a coffee’s terroir influences its flavor and which up-and-coming regions are growing the coffees of tomorrow.

In our Food & Art column we look at how one petrol company was responsible for making the Sunday picnic fashionable in Britain, boosting the sale of both brie cheese and gas.

C

Over in Kowloon, we visit Hong Kong’s

M

first free-flow Chinese brunch and enjoy an afternoon of entertainment: mesmerizing

Y

face changing, graceful kung fu tea acrobatics, and animated noodle making.

CM

Back in Central, we sample six Sunday recipes perfected during the culinary jour-

MY

neys of a nomadic French chef and then take a jaunt to Sai Ying Pun to visit a diner

CY

CMY

with a decor as eclectic as the pancakes it serves.

K

Later in the evening and just down the road, we wind down at a cocktail gastropub that is rejuvenating the neighborhood through its dedication to craftsmanship.

We end our Sunday odyssey with a weekend jaunt to Bangkok to join a riverside brunch in a uniquely tranquil setting.

Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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contents

2 STARTER 10 Young Chefs Sparkle • 12 Culinary Fashion • 14 On the Nose • 16 The Art of Whisky 20 East, West, Old, New • 22 Dining Out • 24 Kung Fu Meets Dim Sum • 32 Six on Sunday • 40 Plant-Based Pleasures 54 Brunch Sanctuary • 60 Lost and Found • 64 Shokunin of Sushi • 68 Purely Japanese

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contents

70 Day and Night • 72 Creatively Cantonese • 74 Essentially Italian • 76 Lazy Sundays at Galaxy Macau 80 Tea and Fantasy • 84 The Meat of the Matter • 88 Banfi Comes to Tosca • 94 A Regal Scott • 98 Catalonian Calm 106 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 108 D E S S E R T

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tasting news

料理界闪耀新星

young chefs sparkle S.Pellegrino, famous for mineral water, names a young South Korean a regional winner in their newly launched global young chefs’ competition.

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从学徒到厨房主管，直到「2015 年 S.Pellegrino 圣培露 青年厨师大赛」亚洲东北地区的优胜者，Park Jinyong 的职业生涯在过去六年扶摇直上，证明了他是位极具潜 力的烹饪人才。 尽管在厨艺界经验尚浅，Park Jinyong 的烹饪风格 创意无限。在首尔第一家法式小馆 Zero Complex 担任主 厨时，旁人便鼓励他以近乎嬉戏的手法去运用各种食材。 这种精神在他的优胜菜肴 Samgyetang 中显而易见 ：他 以异想天开的方式颠覆了传统韩式鸡汤的概念，运用西 方的料理方式让它摇身一变，成为一道主菜。 评 审 梁 经 纶 (Alvin Leung)、Richard Ekkebus 和 林 正植 (Yim Jungsik) 十分欣赏 Park Jinyong 别出心裁的呈 「这道菜技术精湛、独 现方式及食材组合。 梁经纶说 ： 特而充满料理天分，无懈可击。繁复多变、对比明显， 食材运用得宜，要传达的讯息相当鲜明，几近完美。 」 身为优胜者，将有一位著名烹饪大师亲自指导 Park Jinyong，为总决赛做准备。总决赛将在 2015 年 6 月的 米兰世界博览会中举行，他将面对来自世界各地的另外

19 位年轻厨师，角逐本年度 S. Pellegrino 圣培露青年厨 师大赛的冠军。

COURTESY OF S. PELLEGRINO

F R O M S T U D E N T C O O K to chef de partie to winner of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 Northeast Asia Regional Challenge, Park Jinyong’s career has charted a rapidly ascending trajectory over the past six years, establishing him as an emerging culinary talent.

Though Park’s resume may be short on experience, his style is long on creativity. As chef de partie at Seoul’s first “neo-bistro,” Zero Complex, he was encouraged to explore ingredients with a playful approach. That spirit is evident in his winning entry, “Samgyetang,” a whimsical deconstruction of the traditional Korean chicken soup, reinterpreted with Western techniques to transform it into an entrée course.

Judges Alvin Leung, Richard Ekkebus, and Yim Jungsik were impressed with Park’s superior presentation and ingredient combinations. “The dish has all the elements – technique, uniqueness, and genius,” said Leung. “Good complexity and contrast, ingredients are well executed, near flawless, and the overall message was clear.”

As a finalist, Park will be mentored by a celebrity chef to prepare for the grand finals to be held in June at Expo Milano 2015, where he will compete against nineteen others for the title of S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015.

↓ Winner Park Jinyong

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tasting news

魅力廚神

culinary fashion Stars of the Asian food scene trade hot stoves for hot lights in a fashion photoshoot.

SOME OF THE BEST-KNOWN CULINARY NAMES in Asia have made a second annual foray into the popular medium of celebrity calendars. The Sarment Icons 2015 Cookbook Calendar is produced by Jason Black at Empire Media in partnership with the wine and sommelier service company Sarment. Luxury men’s fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna has custom-outfitted the twelve chefs in Italian high style to be photographed in the guise of models through the lens of acclaimed Hong Kongbased fashion photographer Inga Beckmann.

As the title reveals, this desktop model is more than just a place to keep track of appointments and holidays. While one side bears the striking monochrome images of the chefs – one for each month of the year – the other features nearly sixty recipes from these innovators, laid out season by season and photographed in color by Jonathan Maloney. Dishes like steamed local black kingfish, quinoa and mushroom salad, celeriac crab, chicken in a jar, and ostie apple wasabi have been expertly paired with wines by six of the top sommeliers from estates that Sarment represents.

Chefs on the roster, from Singapore, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, are Tetsuya Wakuda, Ryan Clift, Frédéric Colin, Julien Royer, Paul Pairet, Nicolas Le Bec, Jason Oakley, Ugo Rinaldo, Roland Schuller, Mango Tsang, Jowett Yu, and Olivier Elzer.

Now that the calendar is out, these luminaries in the world of Asian cuisine have exchanged their pinstripes for chef’s whites and are back to the taste business that made them famous.

亚洲知名度最高的几位主厨今年再度攻 占 名 人 月 历。 本 年 度 的 名 厨 食 谱 月 历 《Sarment 2015》 是 由 Empire Media 的 Jason Black，以及提供专业侍酒服务的葡萄 酒品牌 Sarment 联手推出，此外更委托精 品男装品牌 Ermenegildo Zegna 为 12 位主 厨打造拍摄造型，在镜头前散发意大利名 流风范，再由居于的香港知名摄影师 Inga Beckmann 掌镜，让名厨展现十足的魅力。 由名可知这桌历绝不只能用来记事 ： 日历的一面是厨师的黑白照，每月由一位 名厨代表 ；另一面则是总数多达 60 份的 食 谱， 都 是 他 们 的 创 意 菜， 由 Jonathan Maloney 拍摄成精美彩照，并按季节编排， 包含清蒸海鲡、藜麦鲜菇沙拉、块根芹佐 蟹肉、瓮烧鸡、苹果芥末冰糕等特色料理， 以及由 Sarment 的六位顶尖侍酒师挑选的 佐餐酒。 本年度登上名厨月历的大厨包含来 自 新 加 坡、 上 海、 香 港 等 地 的 Tetsuya Wakuda、Ryan Clift、Frédéric Colin、Julien Royer、Paul Pairet、Nicolas Le Bec、Jason Oakley、Ugo Rinaldo、Roland Schuller、 Mango Tsang、Jowett Yu、Olivier Elzer。 月历发行后，几位亚洲美食界之星又 要褪下条纹衬衫，换上大厨白袍，回到让 他们发光发热的厨艺舞台。

The Sarment Icons 2015 Cookbook Calendar by Jason Black Fashion Photography: Inga Beckmann Food Photography: Jonathan Maloney All chefs dressed by: Ermenegildo Zegna Published by Empire Media

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Karsten Ranitzsch Head of Coffee at NestlĂŠ Nespresso

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interview

心系咖啡 追求极致

on the nose Karsten Ranitzsch, Head of Coffee at Nestlé Nespresso, responds to questions about his lifelong relationship with the aromatic brew.

COURTESY OF NESPRESSO

How did you become interested in coffee and decide to make it your career?

Coffee has always been my career. In my hometown in Germany I joined a small roasting company where I learned all about green coffee purchasing, logistics, roasting, tasting, and blending. Coffee is never boring!

The industry has adopted many terms from the wine world, such as Grand Cru and terroir. What is important in the terroir for coffee?

Weather conditions, the amount of sunshine, altitude, latitude, the quality of the soil – all this is relevant for the aromatic profile.

We have been focusing on two terroirs from Colombia. Cauca is known for its very small farms. The coffee is grown in the green rolling mountains, warmed by the equatorial sunshine. The coffee is characterized by its fruity, winey aromas and juicy taste. Santander to the northeast is a drier region surrounded by steep mountains. The coffee bushes are grown under tall trees, protected from the high-intensity sun. Santander has toasted bread notes with sweet notes of caramel. Both regions cultivate the same type of arabica cultivar but the pure influence of the terroir was expressed in the difference between the taste of these two limited editions.

Does your company try to buffer the effects on farmers of commodity speculation that can make their incomes so volatile?

We have learned from other industries, such as the winemakers, that consumers have an interest which goes beyond just the end product itself. The highest quality coffees are scarce and it’s essential for us to give ongoing support to our farmers to create trust and loyalty. Our AAA Program empowers farmers by investing in community infrastructure, paying cash premiums for superior coffee and best agricultural practices, and providing training, financing, and technical assistance to continuously improve quality, sustainability, and productivity.

Are there any coffee regions you would call up-and-coming?

Nespresso was the first major coffee company to reenter South Sudan in 2011. We plan to be the first to offer coffee from the country following its independence. South Sudan has a long coffee history, but its industry was largely destroyed during the civil war. It needs to be rebuilt from the ground up – trees need to be replanted and smallholder farmers require basic access to inputs and technical support. The infrastructure to support coffee commercialization needs to be developed.

What’s your favorite coffee in the morning?

Being German, I usually start my day with a Linizio Lungo and a Bukeela ka Ethiopia Lungo, followed by a more mild aromatic espresso such as Dulsão do Brasil, and I always drink them black!

当初你怎么会对咖啡产生兴趣，更以此为 业呢？ 咖啡一直都是我追求的志业。我曾经 在德国的家乡一家小型烘豆商任职，学会 生豆采购、物流、烘豆、品尝和混豆等知识。 咖啡永远都有惊喜！ 业界借用了许多葡萄酒的用语来阐述咖啡， 例如「风土」和「顶级产地」。咖啡的风土 取决于什么因素？ 气候、阳光、海拔、纬度和土壤等因 素都会带来影响。我们向来着重哥伦比亚 的两个产区 ：考卡省以小型农场闻名，咖 啡种在连绵的山峦间，受赤道阳光洗礼， 带有浓厚的果香和酒香，口感香甜 ；东北 部的桑坦德省则比较干燥，周围高山陡峭， 咖啡种在高树下，避开强烈阳光，带有面 包烘烤香，及淡淡焦糖味。两个产区的咖 啡豆产量稀少，虽然种植相同的阿拉比卡 豆种，但是味道不同就展现了风土的影响。 商品投机行为可能会使小农的收入极度不 稳，贵公司有没有试图减缓这样的冲击呢？ 我们从其他产业身上学习 ：例如葡萄 酒商就晓得，消费者关注的不只是产品。 优质咖啡豆的产量稀少，我们必须持续支 持豆农，建立互信和忠诚。我们的 AAA 品 质计画就让豆农可以投资社区基础建设， 以现金优惠取得优质咖啡和最佳农业规范， 并且提供训练、融资和技术支持，以改善 品质、可持续性和生产力。 您认为有哪些咖啡产区具发展潜力呢？ 2011 年，雀巢奈斯派索是首家重新进 入南苏丹的大型咖啡公司。南苏丹独立后， 我们计画成为首家提供该地咖啡的公司。南 苏丹生产咖啡的历史悠久，但是产业在内 战期间遭到破坏，一切必须从头再来 ：包 括种植咖啡树、提供基本的资金和技术支 持，以及发展促进咖啡商业化的基础建设。 您早上最喜欢喝什么咖啡呢？ 身为德国人，我一早通常会喝杯「黎 尼兹欧」和「衣索比亚 - 布绮拉」，再享用 温和的浓缩咖啡，像是「巴西 - 都索欧」， 而且我都只喝黑咖啡。 sunday rituals

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© MARIO TESTINO

feature

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威士忌的艺术

T H E A RT O F W H I S KY One of the world’s leading fashion photographers interprets the essence of one of the world’s legendary Scotch whiskies.

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inspired living

his artistic vision encompasses much more: portraits of celebrities and royalty, gallery exhibitions, and twelve published books.

T his latest commission from T he Macallan focuses on the significance of six. Six casks exemplifying six distinctive flavor and aroma characteristics were chosen to create the limited edition, and they in turn reflect The Six Pillars of the whisky house’s philosophy in producing the highest quality – The Spiritual Home, The Curiously Small Stills, The Finest

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“ There’s so much to manage in order to create the moment that makes for exactly the pictures you want.”

Cut, The Exceptional Oak Casks, The Natural Color, and The Peerless Spirit. These became the inspiration for Testino’s images.

“Most of the sitters for the shoot were professional models who know how to project a persona,” Testino says. “But I also had ‘personalities’ in the pictures, and it was important to feature these essential characters and at the same time direct the models to create new ones of their own.”

The idea was to invoke the ambiance of a luxurious and dynamic party scene in which six of the guests would personify The Six Pillars. “There’s so much to manage in order to create the moment that makes for exactly the pictures you want,” Testino explains.

The session took place at a former palace near the Forbidden City. “We shot the campaign in Beijing, which I find quite mysterious

and full of energy and excitement – like much of Asia,” says Testino. “I’ve spent a lot of time there in the last few years on a number of assignments. It felt right to take the shoot there with the backdrop of all that vitality.”

Testino was involved from start to finish – concept development, casting, shooting, right down to helping design the packaging and bottle. “I like to take whatever I do to the highest possible level, so I always oversee the entire creative process,” he says. “I don’t think you can get the results you want without that.”

Testino, an avid fan of Scotch, was asked to envision his own ideal encounter with The Macallan. “It would have to be like the moments we caught in the pictures,” he says, “drinking with good friends in the company of a fabulous mix of people.”

© MARIO TESTINO

THE MACALLAN MASTERS of Photography: Mario Testino Edition marks the fifth collaboration in the brand’s series of limited bottlings that bring together two distinct art forms – the making of fine whisky and the creation of memorable images.

Following other stellar names in the series like Annie Leibovitz and Elliott Erwitt, Testino worked closely with the venerable Scottish distillery to produce a collection of photographs that translate the world of The Macallan into his unique visual vocabulary.

Testino, Peruvian-born and Londonbased, has contributed prolifically to top magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair , but

© MARIO TESTINO, BEN TIETGE COURTESY MARIO TESTINO (PORTRAIT )

威士忌品牌麦卡伦此次推出的第五代「The

「参与拍摄的模特儿 Mario Testino 表示 ：

Macallan 摄影大师 :Mario Testino 系列」 限 量珍藏版，是由 Mario Testino 掌镜，同时亦

都很专业，能熟练投入各种角色，但我也为

是麦卡伦第五度与摄影大师合作，完美结合

点非常重要 ；同时请他们每位都演绎出自己

威士忌的酿造工艺以及化刹那为永恒的艺术。

的性格，为整体作品增添新元素。 」拍摄的场

每张作品注入『个性』 ，融入品牌特质，这一

本系列先前曾与 Annie Leibovitz、Elliott

景是一场热闹的奢华宴会，其中六位宾客分

Erwitt 等 一 流 摄 影 师 合 作， 这 次 Mario Testino 同样會与麦卡伦密切合作，运用独特

「拍 别代表「六大支柱」 。 Mario Testino 说 ：

视觉触感演绎麦卡伦威士忌的尊荣非凡。

出符合心中勾勒的完美画面。 」

Mario Testino 生于秘鲁，目前旅居伦敦， 摄影作品众多，经常受邀为 Vogue 与《浮华 世界》 （Vanity Fair）等知名杂志拍摄 ；但他

「这次选择北京作 殿。 Mario Testino 表示 ： 为拍摄地点，如同多数的亚洲城市一样，我

的艺术触角不止于此，他更常应邀为名人雅

觉得北京散发一股神秘气息，同时又充满活

士或皇室成员拍摄肖像照，于各大艺廊展示

力和惊喜。过去我曾到北京参与多次摄影工

作品，目前已出版 12 本作品集。

作，这次选在这个充满生命力的城市进行拍

此次麦卡伦特别委托 Mario Testino 为新

摄时，必须费心掌控众多细节，才能精准拍 拍摄地点是在北京紫禁城附近的一处旧宫

摄，真是再适合不过。 」

系 列 掌 镜 ：从 单 一 纯 麦 威 士 忌 中 精 选 出 六

Mario Testino 全程参与此次摄影工作 ：从

桶， 口 感 与 香 气 各 异， 分 别 象 征「 六 大 支

概念构思、选角、拍摄，一直到酒瓶与包装

柱」精粹醇品所代表的麦卡伦酿酒哲学 ：The

的设计，他说 ： 「我希望能将拍摄效果发挥到

Macallan 精神家园 (The Spiritual Home)、最 小巧铜管蒸馏仪 (The Curiously Small Stills)、 最少切割部份 (The Finest Cut)、优质橡木酒 桶 (The Exceptional Oak Casks)、 自 然 色 泽 (The Natural Color)、 无 与 伦 比 的 美 酒 (The Peerless Spirit)，Mario Testino 便 是 从 中 汲

极致，所以坚持亲自监督整个创意发想的过

取拍摄灵感。

尝美酒。 」

Mario Testino

程。只有这么做，才能达到理想的结果。 」

Mario Testino 本身也对苏格兰威士忌情有 独钟，记者请他描绘自己理想中与麦卡伦威 士忌相遇的美好时刻，他表示 ： 「就如同这次 拍摄的几张作品 ：跟三五好友相聚，尽情品

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design

中西合璧，新旧交融

east, west, old, new Stack in Sai Ying Pun offers customers specialty pancakes in an environment that fuses eras as well as cuisines.

WALL , a local design studio specializing in transformation projects, is the creative force behind Stack’s distinctive new facade and the makeover of its intimate three-hundredsquare-foot interior. Wilson Lee, who carried out the project along with WALL cofounder Alex Siu, explained their close collaboration during the process with Stack’s owners, Caleb and Joshua Ng: “We shared the same vision of blending East and West, old and new into the design of the space.”

The location was once a traditional shophouse, and the new design hints at this former life through the use of cement walls, high ceilings, original 1960s Canton floor tiles, and sculptural metal elements that incorporate patterns popular in mid-century Hong Kong. The designers worked with local blacksmiths to fabricate the entranceway decoration, a collection of metal grates that take their inspiration from the ubiquitous Hong Kong window security grills.

There is also a collection of metal words, some, like “pancake,” “cocktail,” and “city” in English, others, like those for “shophouse” and “craftsmanship,” in Chinese characters.

The restaurant, which specializes in American-style pancakes paired with Asianinspired toppings, always envisioned a weekend brunch in its future. “We discussed the possibility of having a breakfast and even takeaway service during the planning stages

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of the project,” says Lee. “That’s one reason we wanted to keep the space as open as possible and allow maximum sunlight in during the day.” To accomplish this, the designers made the most of Stack’s corner location and installed floor-to-ceiling windows on each wall and a translucent divider between the dining space and the cooking area.

“We also wanted to foster interaction between inside and outside,” Lee explains.

“The ‘chef ’s table’ in the center and the hanging metal motif look like parts of a stage set and create strong visual interest for people walking by.” To ensure that the open-plan feel of the layout continued even into the kitchen, the designers worked with their clients and a consultant on the best location for the equipment. “The towering exhaust hood needed special treatment to merge it successfully into the design,” Lee notes.

This is not the first F&B project undertaken by WALL, and designers Lee and Siu are enthusiastic about the opportunities they have to create entertaining experiences for Hong Kong’s food lovers. “What matters most is the story we deliver to diners,” Wilson says. “For Stack, we didn’t want to provide customers with just a nice-looking restaurant backdrop. We also wanted to offer them a unique destination – a place to have modern American pancakes in a very old part of Hong Kong.”

WALL 是一家香港的设计公司，擅于为室 内空间除旧布新、改头换面。设计师发挥 创意，细心地为 Stack 三百平方英尺的室 内空间美容装扮，使其焕然一新。设计师 Wilson Lee 与 WALL 的 共 同 创 办 人 Alex Siu 共 同 负 责 这 项 改 造 计 画。 在 与 Stack 餐厅老板 Caleb 和 Joshua 合作的过程中， Wlison 这 么 说 ： 「 我 们 的 看 法 相 当 一 致， 都希望能把东方和西方，传统和现代的元 素融入这个空间。」 餐厅原来是栋传统街屋，设计师将风 行 于 50 年 代 的 香 港 室 内 格 局 融 入 其 中，

COURTESY OF STACK (3)

巧妙地运用水泥墙、挑高天花板、60 年代 的红砖以及金属雕刻的元素，重现当时的 情景。他们也和当地铁匠携手打造入口处 的装潢布置，以金属光栅呈现，灵感来自 香港随处可见的防盗铁窗。门口更挂着以 金属制成的发光文字，像 pancake、cocktail、city、「唐楼」和「匠艺」等等，非常 特别。 Stack 餐厅的主打菜是美式薄饼，搭 配极富亚洲风的酱料，他们也考虑未来在 周末提供早午餐造福饕客。 Wilson 说明 ： 「我们在筹备餐厅的装潢时，就已开始讨论

提供早餐，甚至外带的可能性。因此我们 尽量让这个空间保持开放，白天时才有充 足的阳光照进来。」为了达成这个目标，设 计师充分利用 Stack 餐厅位于街角的优势， 在每一面墙都安装落地窗，并于用餐区及 烹饪区之间装置半透明隔板。 Wilson 解释 ： 「 我们希望这个设计能 够增加餐厅内食客和餐厅外路人之间的互 动。正中间的「主厨桌」和挂在上头的金 属文字酷似一个舞台，很能吸引路人的目 光。」为了让这种「开放」的感觉延续到厨 房里，设计师和顾客及顾问合作，讨论厨

房设备该怎么摆放最好。「我们要费点功 夫，才能让向上延伸的排烟罩融入整个设 计。」 这并不是 WALL 接下的第一个餐厅改 造 案， 但 Wilson 和 Alex 两 位 设 计 师 都 对 这个机会相当热衷，因为他们能让香港饕 客们耳目一新。 Wilson 说 ： 「我们是在跟 顾客们说一个『故事』，这是最重要的。我 们想给 Stack 顾客的，不是一间虚有亮丽 布景的餐厅，而是一个独一无二的地方， 一个能把现代美式薄饼和传统怀旧香港完 美契合的集合点。」 sunday rituals

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food & art

野餐趣

dining out An early advertising poster for petrol recalls the nostalgic British ritual of a Sunday drive in the country and a picnic on the shore.

marketing genius, their advertising department saw in the public’s FOR MANY BRITISH CITY DWELLERS among the wealthy and middle association of the automobile with leisurely fun a limitless potential classes in the 1920s, the automobile brought new freedom to indulge to promote their petrol. In 1925, the company began commissioning in leisurely weekend escapes to the countryside or just to make a artists to create posters and touring guides that for decades would quick Sunday afternoon getaway. Not only could a motor car carry indelibly link the name Shell with those good times had by all. entire parties of the adventurous to remote scenic locations that were The initial series carried the slogan, “See Britain out of reach a decade earlier, but a roomy car meant BY First – On Shell.” Shown is one by French painter Charles that all the comforts of home could go along for the ride: KATE NICHOLSON Fouqueray, who studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Each blankets, lawn chairs, umbrellas, tableware, and plenty of poster featured a hidden treasure of rural Britain, which, food and drink.

ILLUSTRATION BY unsurprisingly, could be easily reached only by automobile.

Favorites of the era like sandwiches of cheese, CHARLES FOUQUERAY By 1930 the number of private cars in Britain had reached tomato, and caviar; chicken and leek pie; salad with a million and reaction was setting in. C.E.M. Joad, in his watercress, beetroot, and nasturtium; and all manner 1931 pamphlet, The Horrors of the Countryside , lamented the changes of small cakes and sweets could be nestled in a wicker hamper and motoring had brought: “Its characteristic features are petrol pumps tucked in the boot. and garages, tea places … and innumerable notice boards.” Heeding The boot of the well-fixed enthusiast might be in a Rolls Royce, public outcry, Shell’s advertising became less aggressive as the comthat of the less so in an Austin or a Morris, but every vehicle needed pany removed placards from garages and along the country roads. fuel to get there and Shell Oil hoped it would be theirs. In a stroke of

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‘SEE BRITAIN FIRST ’, AN ADVERTISING POSTER FOR SHELL , 1925 (OFFSET COLOUR LITHOGRAPH), FOUQUERAY, CHARLES (1872-1956) / PRIVATE COLLECTION / PHOTO © CHRISTIE’S IMAGES / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

1920 年代，对于英国都市的许多富人与中产

为这是宣传壳牌石油的时机。 1925 年，该公

阶级而言，汽车就是行动自由的代名词。有

司开始委任多名画家绘制海报和旅游导览画

了汽车，你便可以到乡间度过一个悠闲的周

报，往后数十年，大家只要一想起从前出游

末，或是在星期天下午去兜兜风 ；有了汽车，

的美好时光，就会联想到壳牌石油，广告效

你便能和一群旅伴造访路途遥远的景点，共

果深植人心。首先推出的系列中，印着广告

享美景、探索郊游乐趣，更可将家中的舒适

，由 标语 ： 「探索英国 — 从壳牌石油开始」

搬到户外，宽敞的车内空间可以放置野餐垫、

画家 Charles Fouqueray 操刀。他曾就读于

草坪躺椅、遮阳伞、餐具与许多美味的餐点。

法国美术学院。每张广告作品都以英国郊

当时最受欢迎的野餐餐点包含 : 三文治、

区的私房景点为主题。到了 1930 年，英国

韭菜酥派，沙拉，还有各式小巧蛋糕与甜点，

的私人汽车数量已多达一百万辆，负面影

都是可以放在野餐篮中的大小，便于携带。

响逐渐浮现。广播名人 C.E.M. Joad 在 1931

口袋特别深的人会开气派的 Rolls Royce，

年印制的口袋读本《乡村的可怕景象》中，对

一 般 人 则 是 开 Austin 或 Morris 迷 你 车 ；但

于汽车所带来的改变颇为感叹 ： 「这里到处充

无论什么车都少不了汽油，而这正是壳牌石

斥加油设施、车库、下午茶餐厅，还有数不

油亟欲攻占的市场。该公司广告部门灵光一

清的广告招牌。 」壳牌石油注意到这股反对声

现，发现了汽车与民众休闲娱乐之间的紧密

浪，广告攻势趋于缓和，也开始减少在郊区

连结，并从中看到无穷的品牌宣传商机，认

道路上和车库旁的广告招牌数量。

Charles Fouqueray’s poster entices motorists to fill the tank and take the high road to Ben Lomond, a mountain in the Scottish Highlands and right on the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond.

Fouqueray的精美海报，吸引驾驶者注满汽车油 缸，前往苏格兰高地的Ben Lomond的高速公路。

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photo essay

当功夫遇上点心

kung fu meets dim sum At Hong Kong’s Hutong restaurant, Sunday brunch becomes a performance piece as mainland acrobats hold center stage with authentic Sichuan favorites.

SURROUNDED BY A RAPT AUDIENCE, a caped figure prowls 在满场观众引颈期盼下，戴着帽子的演员于许 beneath the twisted branches of a wishing tree. He stops, drops 愿树盘根错节的树枝下穿梭，他竟突然止步、 to the ground, then leaps in the air and pirouettes on one leg. 落地后又单脚跃起，旋转起身。他将脸庞藏在 His face is concealed by a large pleated fan as his silken cloak 斗大摺扇后，丝质披风呼啸一声，拂过某位观 brushes an onlooker’s arm. With toe pointed, he kicks out a leg 众的手臂。只见他以脚尖为中心，突然单脚踢 and makes a group of small boys gasp. Approaching a woman in 出，引起台下一群小男孩惊呼连连。演员走向 the crowd, he lowers the fan, revealing a mask of royal blue. He 一位女士身旁，放下手中扇子现出宝蓝色面具， twitches his nose like a rabbit, an invitation for her to touch. As 他接着像兔子般擤了鼻子后，示意她朝脸摸去 ； her finger stretches tentatively, the mask transforms in an instant 女士试探地伸出手之际，面具陡然变成全黑色。 to solid black. The audience applauds while he leaps away, kick演员在满场掌声中跳开，紧接又是精彩的空踢 ing and twirling. His masks progress through a range of colors as 迴旋套步。短时间内面具颜色数变，来客无不 the crowd witnesses a dazzling display of the ancient 沉浸在川剧古老绝技「变脸」绚烂夺 BY art of face changing, a discipline that originated in the 目的表演中。 「变脸」为川剧中不可 LUCY MORGAN Sichuan opera. The face changer was an integral part of 或缺的环节，演员运用高超的技巧及 the performance, using his talents and varied masks to 不断变换的面具突显故事人物的情 PHOTOGRAPHY BY express the emotions of the story. 绪。 DAVID HARTUNG This compelling presentation takes place in Hong 如此魄力十足的表演就在香港 Kong’s Hutong restaurant as part of its spectacular 「胡同」餐厅上演，在享用週日早午 Sunday brunch. Guests enjoy a semi-buffet of luscious northern 餐的同时一边欣赏。半自助式餐点以中国北方 Chinese delicacies accompanied by free-flowing Veuve Clicquot 佳餚为主，更可无限畅饮法国知名香槟 Veuve Champagne. On a chilly spring Sunday the full-length windows Clicquot。春寒料峭，週日到「胡同」用餐，透 overlooking Hong Kong harbor catch the sunlight, warming the 过大片落地窗可俯瞰维多利亚港美景 ；阳光洒 spacious dining rooms and making the antique-style Chinese 落，让宽敞的用餐空间倍感温暖，也让彷古中式 furnishings gleam. Locals, expats, and visitors enjoy authen傢俱闪闪发光，更添韵味。本地人、在港的海外 tic cuisine while experiencing a fascinating slice of traditional 人士及游客均趋之若骛，品尝地道美味同时，欣 Chinese culture from performers who travel from the mainland 赏每周专程自内地而来的川剧演员上演的精彩 each week. 剧码，感受博大精深的中国传统戏曲之美。 The face-changing artist has come with his master, who 胡同川剧变脸绝活大师的师傅也陪同来到 tells his story: “I joined the kung fu school when I was six for 现场，在一旁谈及演员辛苦练功的往事 ： 「我 one simple reason – they fed you and gave you a place to live,” 六岁就进入功夫学校，理由很简单 - 可以吃饱、 he says. “I stayed as a student, worked hard, and now I am 有地方住。我从头学起、努力不懈，到现在也 the master. Face changing requires extraordinary control of the 出师了。变脸技巧无他，就是精准控制脸部每 muscles. The costume is intricate and the performer must have 一条肌肉。戏服构造复杂，机关很多，演员一 excellent balance and concentration.” The Master estimates that 定要练就绝佳平衡力及专注力。 」他强调，功夫 after reaching a skilled level in kung fu a further three years’ 技术水平达标后，大概还须三年，才能掌握变 study is needed to master face changing. But he believes that 脸绝技。虽然困难重重，但他表示，表演带来 the satisfaction of performing and the response of the audience 的满足感及观众的热烈回应让人即使吃苦，也 are worth all the hard work. 甘之如饴。

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photo essay

胡同功夫茶艺师傅年仅 18 岁，加入中国国 家杂技团却已有四年时间，功夫茶表演为他 的绝活之一。换上传统的两件式戏服，他 在桌上摆好瓷杯，挑起铜製茶壶，茶壶特製 茶嘴比他手还长。他的特技动作行云流水， 带着特殊韵律，而途中一滴茶都不曾洒落。 接下来他弓起背，几乎将身体折成两半，头 倒了过来 ；随着他曲着茶壶角度越大，香气 四溢的茗茶如细泉般涌出，绕过头画成一 条优美弧线，不偏不倚倒入精小茶碗之中。 他惊人的姿势、肢体弹性及力道，一系列 动作富含太极之美。师傅此时也说到功夫 茶由来： 古时候茶馆狭窄，桌间的空间极小， 店员走动不易，因而衍生出壶嘴特长的茶 壶，无须惊动客人也能自远处加茶。自此 之后，俐落身手也逐渐成为功夫茶表演中 不可或缺的一环。看到功夫茶艺师傅以芭 蕾般的美妙身手倒茶， 「胡同」客人面露微 笑，报以热烈掌声。 Crispy de-boned Lamb Ribs 京城羊肉

Hutong’s Kung Fu Tea Acrobat is just eighteen years old, but he has been a member of the Chinese national kung fu team for four years and is also highly accomplished in the art of kung fu tea performance. Changing into a traditional two-piece costume, he arranges china cups on a table and picks up a brass teapot with a spout longer than his arm. His rhythmic moves are daringly acrobatic, but he never spills a drop. Arching his back into a deep bend and with head upside down, he steadily tilts the pot until a thin stream of the fragrant brew arcs overhead and fills a tiny cup. He completes a series of tai chi maneuvers with phenomenal poise, flexibility, and strength. The young man explains that this routine first developed in days when restaurants were tiny, with little space for waiters to move between tables. The teapot’s long spout was designed so they could refresh customers’ tea without disturbing them. The dexterity required became part of the practice of kung fu tea performance. Hutong’s guests smile and clap as the performer moves with balletic grace to fill cup after cup.

Chili minced Pork String Bean fried with Petite Shrimp 干煸四季豆

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Dan Dan Noodles 胡同担担面

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“Red Lantern” Crispy Soft Shell Crab with Sichuan Dried Pepper 大红灯笼高高挂

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photo essay

Between performances guests browse a table laden with steamers of irresistible dumplings served with fiery, salty, and sour dipping sauces. Sichuan classics like dry-fried beans with minced pork and crispy roasted lamb beckon them to make return trips. Charming antique washtubs keep the Veuve Clicquot appropriately cool and waiters serve main courses on natural wood and slate platters.

Northern Chinese food is both hearty and diverse. Always rich in flavor, it can be fiery or salty and widely varied in texture. North China makes staple foods from grains rather than rice and excels in its tender handmade noodles.

Each Sunday, Dim Sum Master Chef Law Kin Ting emerges from Hutong’s kitchen holding aloft a smooth ball of dough. Guests leave their Champagne and food to crowd closer as he takes his position in the center of the room. He stretches the dough into a thick rope and slaps it on a floured table, twisting, looping, and spinning it like a jump rope. Working his fingers like a loom, he separates the dough into strands, moving quickly as it falls into ever thinner and neater threads. Finally, Law slams it down and chops the noodles into equal lengths with a cleaver as the crowd cheers in delight. Then he goes back to the kitchen to turn the super-fresh product into a traditional northern dish, bathing the noodles in a rich red sesame sauce with minced pork. Waiters deliver steaming bowls of these classic dandan noodles to every diner as a satisfying finale to the afternoon’s cultural and culinary spectacle.

表演空档，饕客的眼神投向放满汤包蒸笼的取餐台，搭配咸、酸或后劲十足的各 式沾酱，美味叫人难以抵挡。乾煸四季豆佐肉末及酥烤羊排等道地四川料理也让 客人回味无穷，不禁一盘接着一盘 。Veuve Clicquot 香槟放在古董水盆中，时髦 又保冷 ；主餐则盛于天然木及石板餐盘后上桌，别具一番风味。 北方菜系丰富多元，除了丰厚味道之外，重口味、重咸及变化多端的口感也 是一大特色。北方主要以穀类而非米饭作为主食，软嫩的手工制面技术更是无可 挑剔。每到週日，点心主厨罗坚庭就会现身厨房 ；到了凌空揉面的表演时间，客 人纷纷挤向前，待师傅于舞台中间施展一身绝活。他先将面团拉成粗条，随后往 沾满面粉的桌上甩去，接着面团在他手中像跳绳般扭转、翻腾、绕圈，让人目不 暇给。主厨手指像织纺机般灵活，将面团撕成细条，迅速反复作业，三两下就把 面团拉成无数方整的细丝，再将其扔往桌上，大刀一挥切成等长的面条，动作没 有丝毫拖泥带水，让围观客人忍不住发出赞叹。主厨接着回厨房，将现做的新鲜 麵条化为北方家常美味 ：爽口的面条淋上满满辛红芝麻酱汁及猪肉碎末便是口感 非凡的担担面料理。香气扑鼻的担担面上桌时还不断散出热气， 每位客人都可「分 一杯羹」 ，为一下午的文化美食飨宴划下完美句点。

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周日六重奏

Six on Sunday Chef Frederic Chabbert makes Sunday special with six dishes that show why Mano is setting Hong Kong’s pace in modern European food.

WHETHER IT’S MARSEILLE OR SYDNEY, RIO OR JOHANNESBURG, Sunday eating has the same welcome appeal everywhere. A

day of rest means longer, lazier dining, free from weekday distractions that can make meals disappear in a blur.

The family moves front and center, giving a chance to reconnect over food that has been prepared at leisure. Slow cooking can feature those interesting cuts of meat that are rendered down over time in the oven or simmered gently for hours.

Sunday is also the day to splurge on special ingredients, the more sumptuous, the better. The ingredients featured here were provided by Antoine Piccolo of Gourmet en Provence, a Hong Kong specialist in such delicacies as black truffles, caviar, and rare oils.

不管是在马赛还是悉尼，在里约还是约翰尼斯堡，一到了星期天，人们就会不约而同地享用美食。 放假代表着有更多的时间用餐，可以慵懒地慢慢吃，不像平日有太多的事情让吃饭时间莫 名其妙地凭空消失。 家庭成员在餐桌前齐聚一堂，一同享用以轻松的心情准备的佳肴。因为有较多 的时间准备，你可以发觉肉片的切痕相当精致，经过细火慢炖或烤箱烘烤了数 小时才端上桌。 星期天也是大量使用特式食材的好时机，煮出来的东西也越豪华越 好。这次 Frederic Chabbert 的菜肴使用的是 Gourmet en Provence 的食材 （Gourmet en Provence 是香港一家专门制造黑松露、鱼子酱以及稀有食用 油的公司），使菜肴的法式风味更为明显而地道。

BY CHRIS DWYER

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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INGREDIENTS COURTESY OF GOURMET EN PROVENCE

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oeufs au caviar

Chabbert’s first dish, Oeufs au Caviar , has a simple name but an intricate execution. It’s all in the balance of the constituents, he explains: organic egg yolk poached at low temperature, golden Kristal caviar from the kaluga sturgeon with its rounded and subtle taste, pickles and seaweed adding kick and textural contrast.

Chabbert 的第一道菜是 Oeufs au Caviar（鸡蛋鱼子酱）， 虽然名字很简单，制作过程可要下不少工夫。Chabbert 表示重点在于食材之间的平衡，包括低温料理的有机蛋 黄、有着滑顺口感，口味较清淡的 Kristal 鱼子酱、腌黄 瓜和口感上截然不同，让味蕾为之一振的海苔。

Organic egg yolk features in his second dish as well, the ultimate gastronomic reconstruction of the English full breakfast, something Chabbert learned to love while living in London. The Italian yolk is again cooked on low with black truffle from Périgord, crispy La Bigourdane pork belly from the Pyrenees, and fresh aromatic herbs. “I love the rich flavor of black truffles, but I don’t think it’s right to put them in a dish just for the sake of upgrading it. I use truffle here as an ingredient, not a selling point.” 有机蛋黄在 Chabbert 的第二道菜也是主角。第 二道菜以最美味的方式诠释了 Chabbert 在伦 敦时最爱的英式早餐。意大利的生蛋黄与来 自 Périgord 的 黑 松 露、 来 自 Pyrenees 的 La Bigourdane 脆猪肚以及新鲜的草本植物一同低 温烹煮。 「我喜欢黑松露浓厚的口味，但我把 它加进这道菜并不是为了提升菜肴的作用。松 露在这道菜中就只是一种食材，而不是卖点。 」

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organic egg yolk,

La Bigourdane pork belly, and black truffles

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roast pata negra suckling pig

A show-stopping whole roast pata negra suckling pig is the dramatic next dish. The epitome of slow cooking, the tender meat has been glorified by ten hours overnight in a Josper oven. The Josper is essentially an indoor barbecue, but one with results that professional chefs find well worth €15,000. It burns high quality Japanese charcoal, but the real key to its success is two adjustable elements, one on the base to draw air in, the other at the top to expel the smoke. It took time for Chabbert and his team to master the device, but one taste of piglet served with homemade pickles and potato purée justifies it all. 这道 pata negra 烤乳猪是长时间烹饪的成果，柔软的猪肉在嘉士伯烤箱里经过 10 个小时的 烘烤才能出炉。嘉士伯烤箱是室内烤肉的良伴，但一台受过大厨认可的烤箱要价 15,000 欧 元。火源采用来自日本的高品质木炭，然而烤得成功与否，关键在于两个需要调整的地方 ： 一是从烤箱底部引入空气，二是从烤箱顶部排烟。Chabbert 和他的团队花上一段时间才能 驾驭这台烤箱，但配着居家口味的腌黄瓜和马铃薯泥尝一口，就能深深了解，这一切都是 值得的。

roast chicken with new potatoes and brussel sprouts

Next up is a Sunday mainstay in homes and restaurants around the world – roast chicken. In this case it’s a corn-fed bird from Landes in southwestern France. Chabbert’s version pays tribute to the comfort classic with a mix of butter, bread crumbs, rosemary, thyme, and other Herbes de Provence spread under the skin to provide the ultimate crisp exterior. New potatoes and brussels sprouts round out the satisfyingly provincial feast.

Chabbert 使用的是来自法国南部朗 德省的谷饲鸟，其他食材则参考传 统的作法，使用奶油、面包屑、迷 迭香、百里香以及其他的普罗旺斯 香草。他将这些食材洒匀在鸡皮下， 造就了非常酥脆的外皮，再加上马 铃薯和豹子甘蓝，这道美食就大功 告成了。

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pain de levain

Corsican sheep’s milk, pistac hio butter, and transparent honey

Cheese before dessert is so classically French, and in this case Chabbert offers a Corsican sheep’s milk, served with pistachio butter and transparent honey, a blend of two varieties, yellow flower and lemon. And a hefty five-pound loaf of pain de levain balances everything with a sourdough tang. 在甜点前享用起司是非常传统的法式吃法。Chabbert 采用了 科西嘉羊奶起司，与开心果奶油、透明的蜂蜜、黄花和柠檬 搭配。一条五磅重的 pain de levain（天然酵母面包）以它浓 烈的酵母香平衡了一切。

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ice tea sherbet, tuile, pink peppercorns and meringue

The parting flourish again celebrates Corsica, the ravishing island off France’s Mediterranean coast that is one of Chabbert’s favorite places. He sets off the island’s delicate, sweet clementines with lemon ice tea sherbet, a tuile, meringue, and pink peppercorns.

It’s hard to think of a better way to finish a Sunday.

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位于法国地中海岸的科西嘉岛是 Chabbert 最爱 的地方，Chabbert 就以最后一道菜来欢庆这迷人 小岛的美好 ：他将岛上细致而香甜的小甜橘掺入 柠檬茶冻，加上杏仁片和粉红色的胡椒子，为星 期天画下了美好的句点。

FORMERLY HEAD CHEF at the renowned Restaurant Petrus at Hong

Kong’s Island Shangri-La, Frederic Chabbert now finds critical acclaim at Mano, his all-day dining venue in Hong Kong’s The L Place.

Chabbert is a classically trained French chef, but he brings with him influences from a global career at such places as The RitzCarlton in San Francisco, Roussillon in London, and Alain Ducasse’s famous three-star Le Louis XV in Monaco’s Hôtel de Paris.

For his selection of six Sunday dishes Chabbert draws on this whole range of experiences and flavors, but always with a noticeably French accent. 曾经担任港岛香格里拉大酒店珀翠餐厅的主厨 Frederic Chabbert， 现在任职于他非常推崇的 Mano 餐厅，当他身在香港的 The L Place 时，三餐都会到那儿光顾。 Chabbert 是位精于传统法式料理的大厨，但他的足迹遍布世界 各地，累积了丰富的经验与见闻 ；他曾在三藩市的丽思卡尔顿酒店、 伦敦的 Roussillon 餐厅、巴黎摩纳哥的 Hôtel de Paris 担任主厨。 Chabbert 在他的六道周日美食中，充分运用自己的经验，赋予 菜肴最多元的口味，顾客们总是吃得出其中的法式风情。

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味蕾的草本飨宴

Plant-based Pleasures The expertly conceived cocktails at Post97 all start with spirits distilled from a few potent plants.

BY LUCY MORGAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG ILLUSTRATIONS BY REBEKAH NICHOLS

“I DESCRIBE MYSELF AS A BAR CHEF,” says Jay Khan, whose official title is Group

Beverage Manager, Epicurean Management Limited. “I take ingredients and I create with them at the bar. The difference between me and a kitchen chef is that I principally work with ice, while he works with fire.”

Khan has found that the compound structure of cocktails and their composition from ingredients found in nature lend them perfectly to food pairing. “I believe a cocktail can be more than just an aperitif,” he says. “All spirits are made from plants or herbs, so the key component in every cocktail comes from the vegetable kingdom. We then add other plant-based flavors to season and spice and add layers of taste. The basic rules for an excellent cocktail are: good liquor, fresh ingredients, complexity of flavor.”

He confesses being a botanist at heart: “I can be walking through the market and see or smell some beautiful plants and herbs, and that gets my imagination firing.”

Khan walks us through the source ingredients of six different spirits and turns each one into a very imaginative drink. 韦伯辞典中，鸡尾酒的定义是「蒸馏过的酒精，混以多种食材调味」 ，读来单调乏味，但 兰桂坊的 Post97 則赋予鸡尾酒崭新的生命力。 饕餮集团餐饮经理 Jay Khan 表示 ： 「我叫自己酒吧主厨，在酒吧运用食材发挥创意， 这跟一般主厨不同之处在于 ：吧台与冰为伍，厨房则与火为伍。」 Khan 发现，鸡尾酒本身的复合结构，结合了大自然的食材，形成绝妙的搭配。他表 示： 「我认为鸡尾酒不只是开胃酒而已，所有烈酒都由植物或药草制成，因此每杯鸡尾酒 的关键成分莫不取决于蔬果的世界。我们还会加入其他植物基底来调味、增加口感的层次。 鸡尾酒要好喝，基本原则就是要有好酒、新鲜的食材和丰富的风味。」 他还自诩为植物学家 ： 「我常在市场散步，一看到或闻到漂亮的植物或药草，就能激 发出无限的想像力。」Khan 向我们介绍六种不同基酒的食材，并且逐一变出独具风味的 鸡尾酒。

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sugarcane 甘蔗

FLORAL ELIXIR

Sugarcane is the world’s biggest crop, cultivated since 8000 BC and grown only in countries with suitably warm climates.

One of the by-products of sugarcane processing is molasses, and it, or the cane juice itself, can be used as the key ingredient in making rum, yielding a spirit that is naturally sweet and aromatic.

Rum has been the sailor’s drink of choice for centuries – enlistees in the Royal Navy, as well as bands of ruffian Caribbean pirates, enjoyed tippling a daily tot from their ship’s communal cask. The body of Admiral Horatio Nelson, who died in the famous battle at sea, is rumored to have been preserved in a barrel of rum until his ship returned to dry land for the state funeral of a hero.

Rum is the hero of this elegant drink. Mount Gay XO is partnered with elderflower liqueur, dry sack sherry, freshly squeezed lemon juice, honey syrup, rosewater, and egg white. It is served in a classic coupe glass and garnished with delicate rose petals and a dainty sprig of lavender.

Multiple floral notes are balanced with a little dryness from addition of the sherry. The egg white is for texture, lending the drink a smooth creaminess as it floats to the top and rests as a silken froth.

Luscious floral aromas are followed by a faint tartness from the elderflower liqueur, and the cocktail ends on sherry notes with a hint of smoked wood. Floral Elixir is as sweet and fragrant as a liquid meringue.

甘蔗为全球最大型的作物，耕种历史最早可追 溯至公元八千年前，仅于气候温暖适中的国家 广为种植。甘蔗加工过程的副产品之一 - 糖浆 或甘蔗汁本身正是酿造兰姆酒不可或缺的成 份，所产酒品散发天然甜味及香气。 几百年来，兰姆酒一直是水手出海的首 选 ：不管是皇家海军士兵抑或凶恶的加勒比 海海盗团，一天不从船上公用酒桶中啜饮一 番，都会觉得浑身不对劲。更有传说海军上将

Horatio Nelson 于知名海战阵亡后，尸身先置 于兰姆酒桶保存，船只靠岸后才盛大举行英雄 般的国葬典礼。 这支优雅的鸡尾酒以兰姆酒为主 轴 ：Mount Gay XO 兰姆佐以接骨木 花酒、Dry Sack 雪莉酒、现榨新鲜 柠檬汁、 蜂蜜糖浆、 玫瑰水及蛋白， 盛于经典香槟浅酒杯，洒上娇嫩 的玫瑰花瓣及秀雅的熏衣草束点 缀即可上桌。多样花香和雪莉略 带干烈的味道搭配的天衣无缝 ；蛋 白则用来增加口感，入口后从舌尖 滑落，质感绵密，留下丝绸般的 柔滑泡沫。接骨木花酒轻微呛味后 紧接而来的是诱人花韵，最后以雪 莉的烟熏木味划下完美句点。鲜花 灵药有如液体慕斯，尝来甘美、香 气四溢。

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corn 玉米

O L D FA S H I O N E D

Co r n , o r m a i ze, h a s b e e n c u l t i va te d i n Mesoamerica since prehistoric times. The Mayans worshipped maize gods and believed their ancestors were made from maize. In the Deep South of the United States resourceful settlers began making it into something else, and soon bourbon came to be the name for whiskey made from a mash containing at least 51 percent corn.

Khan uses bourbon to create a very traditional cocktail, called the Old Fashioned for a reason. “In the past cocktails were simple – just a straightforward mix of spirits, water, bitters, and sugar,” he says. Combining Woodford Reserve with angostura bitters, orange bitters, and simple syrup, Khan pours the result over two large ice cubes to slowly dilute and balance the flavors.

Served in a snifter with room for the aromas to expand, this drink is meant to be lingered over. “When a cocktail has robust flavors, take your time with it,” advises Khan. “You can use other spirits, but a true Old Fashioned calls for bourbon.”

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玉米，或玉蜀黍，自史前时代便于 中美洲大量种植。马雅人崇敬玉米 神祇，对于祖先由玉米生成的传说 深信不疑。美国大南方的开垦者脑 筋动得快，很早就懂得将玉米作他 途使用，酿制含最少 51% 玉米比例 的麦芽威士忌 - 波本酒的名号，很 快便不胫而走。

Khan 就 以 波 本 酒 调 制 名 为 「the Old Fashion」的经典鸡尾酒， 名称其来有自。他说明 ： 「过往调 制鸡尾酒的程序非常直接了当，只 要混合烈酒、水、苦精及糖即可。 」

Khan 混调 Woodford Reserve 波本、 angostura 苦 精、 柑 橘 苦 精 及 单 纯 的糖浆，完成后再放进两大块冰块， 慢慢融化后更可稀释酒味，调和所 有味道。这款鸡尾酒盛于狭口杯， 让酒香有扩散的空间，味道久久不 消， 让人回味。Khan 提出专业建议： 「鸡尾酒味道较重的话，可以慢慢 喝不用急。要用其他酒来调也可以， 但 原 汁 原 味 的『the Old Fashion』 没有波本可不行。 」

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grain 谷物

PUNICA SWIZZLE

Grain is simply the harvested seeds of cereal grasses. Once dried, it can be easily transported and stored, making it a reliable way to feed a population with staple foods like bread and noodles. But fermented grain is also the perfect base for distilled spirits like vodka, which can be made from any number of them, typically wheat, corn, rye, or sorghum.

Vodka means “little water” and its clean neutral taste makes it the perfect foundation for many mixed drinks. 谷类结穗收割后便是五谷，晒干后不论运输 In this one, Khan infuses vodka 或储存都非常方便，是以面包及面条为主食 with rosemary, then cuts it with 的广大人口赖以维生的食物来源。五谷发酵 fresh pomegranate juice. A little 后也可作为酿制伏特加等蒸馏烈酒的基本原 vinegar adds body and fresh acid料 ：各式谷类，通常像是小麦、玉米、黑麦 ity. Lemon juice syrup takes it to 或高粱均可作为酿酒之用。伏特加的原意为 another level, and soda gives the 「少水」 ，因其清澈中性的口感，成为调制多 drink its subtle tingle. The mixture 种鸡尾酒的基酒首选。 is poured into a tall red glass and Punica 石榴鸡尾酒中，Khan 将伏特加混 topped with a fragile nest of ice 以迷迭香，再以新鲜石榴汁贯穿其中 ；些许 that cradles a ruby-red pile of fresh 的醋能增加酒体份量及带酸的鲜味。柠檬糖 pomegranate seeds. “You need to 浆让整体味道更上一层楼，而苏打则带来细 drink this cocktail fast,” laughs Khan, 微刺麻感。调制完成后倒入红色高脚杯，放 “before the crushed ice dilutes it and 上细致的巢状冰块，一匙新鲜石榴籽枕于其 the perfumes escape.” 中，发出红宝石般的美丽色泽。Khan 笑着解 释这款酒的喝法 ： 「速度要快，才能抢在溶冰 稀释味道、气味溜走之前喝完。 」

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grapes

葡萄 B R A N DY C R U S TA The base of this drink is Ugni blanc, a white grape varietal originally from Italy and grown principally for use in Cognac and Armagnac.

These grapes are high in acidity and low in sugar, qualities that help produce a pure finish.

“Brandy Crusta was the first cocktail to be served in a sugar-rimmed glass,” says Khan. “The drink is so dry that the sugar balances it out.” He teams Hennessy VS O P Cognac with Grand Marnier and Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur, made from whole cherries with the pits. Lemon juice and angostura bitters add further layers of flavor and complexity. The sugar on the rim makes for a pleasantly rough texture and a little crunch, and a long twist of lemon peel infuses its bite. Khan explains that palates have changed – now the vogue is for dry rather than sweet in cocktails. “Sugar on the rim gives the guest a choice over how much they add as the drink is sipped and it gives a very pleasant mouthfeel.” 说 到 白 兰 地 Crusta 不 得 不 提 意 大 利 的 白 葡 萄 变 种 Ugni blanc， 它 主 要 用 来 酿 造 干 邑

(Cognac) 及雅马邑 (Armagnac) 白兰地。Ugni blanc 酸度高含糖量低，都是让酿酒产生纯粹 尾韵的必要条件。 「 白 兰 地 Crusta 极 为 干 烈， Khan 强 调 ： 需要搭配糖来调和，而它正是糖口杯鸡尾酒 的始祖。 」他综合轩尼士 VSOP 干邑、Grand

Marnier 及百分百莓果及梅核酿制的 Luxardo Maraschino 酒 ；柠 檬 汁 及 angostura 苦 精 则 能增添味道的层次及多元性。杯缘糖粉带来 些许粗糙感，入口酥脆，然后加以长条曲状 的柠檬皮提升口感。Khan 同时也表示，调酒 味道也会随时代改变，现在流行干烈，甘甜 已非第一优先。 「糖口杯让客人有自由选择的 权力，视自己所需增减入口份量，创造让人 爽快的舒适口感。 」

juniper 杜松

B OTA N I S T B R E W To earn its name, gin must have the characteristic flavor of juniper berries. Throughout history this evergreen member of the cypress family has been used medicinally.

During outbreaks of plague in the seventeenth century juniper branches were burned in hopes of warding it off.

Gin became popular with the British when Cognac was banned during one of their many spats with the French and they decided to make their own spirits instead.

Here Khan uses a very special gin from the remote island of Islay in the Hebrides, named for the twentytwo local wild botanicals that are foraged and added to the still. He infuses The Botanist gin with fragrant earl grey tea, then mixes it with Mancino Vermouth Bianco Ambrato, lemon juice, honey syrup, angostura bitters, and Blenheim still water. The drink is served in a glass bottle, and the ritual is to pour a little over a carved ice ball in a clear cup and saucer, like pouring tea from a teapot.

名符其实地，琴酒 ( 杜松子酒 ) 的特色便是杜松子独树一 帜的风味。常绿植物松柏属柏科家族，古时候开始作为药 用流传至今。17 世纪瘟疫爆发时，人们曾燃烧大量杜松树 枝以期驱走疫情。 英法自古争吵不断， 两国某次再闹不合后， 法国干邑遭禁，英国人决定酿造属于自己的烈酒，琴酒自 此于英伦广为流行。

Khan 使用 Hebrides 艾雷岛附近偏远小岛所产的特殊 「草本琴酒」 ，因蒸馏时混合增添的 22 种地方野生植物而 得名。他于草本琴酒中加入格雷伯爵茶，再调和 Mancino Vermouth Bianco Ambrato 苦 艾 酒、 柠 檬 汁、 蜂 蜜 糖 浆、 angostura 苦精及 Blenheim 瓶装水。草本混酿盛于玻璃瓶 上桌，喝法也有一定步骤 ：一次倒少许酒在干净杯盘的凋 刻冰球上，就像从茶壶倒茶一般，细细品尝。

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agave 龙舌兰

ELDERFLOWER PA L O M A

Agave tequilana , the botanical name for the blue agave plant, gives a clue to this cocktail’s base – agave is the essential constituent of tequila. Agave is not a cactus, but a large succulent related to the lily family and native to the Mexican state of Jalisco. Poisonous when raw, agave’s flowers are pollinated by bats. The plant’s juicy core, known as the piña , is naturally high in sugar, making it an excellent candidate for fermentation into alcohol.

The Aztecs were doing just that long before the Spanish arrived, but the distilled product we know as tequila was first made in the sixteenth century. By law tequila must contain at least 51 percent agave sugars. Mixed or mixto tequilas usually derive the remainder from cane or corn, but premium varieties are 100 percent blue agave and deliver the ultimate in flavor.

Khan uses 100 percent tequila to make his long, delectably fruity drink. He adds elderflower liqueur for acidity and mixes it with freshly extracted lime and grapefruit juices, soda, and grapefruit bitters. Like salt and pepper added to a dish, bitters act as a dash of seasoning. The cocktail is garnished with a long coil of grapefruit peel and served in a tall glass. “This recipe is inspired by the Paloma,” says Khan. “It’s a very popular Mexican drink made with tequila and grapefruit soda and often served in a salt-rimmed glass. The first sensation in my version is of the different acidic tastes, then – boom! – the tequila kicks in at the end.”

从蓝色龙舌兰草「Agave tequilana」的学名 就能对这款调酒的味道主轴略知一二，龙舌 兰正是酿造 tequila 最重要的成份。龙舌兰并 非仙人掌，而是与百合花科相关的多汁植物， 源自墨西哥的 Jalisco 州。龙舌兰有毒性，花 朵经由蝙蝠传递授粉。龙舌兰树心非常多汁， 俗 名 piña， 含 糖 量 高， 作 为 酒 精 发 酵 之 用， 功效极大。 阿兹堤克人早在西班牙人抵达中美前便 开 始 用 piña 酿 制 烈 酒， 但 我 们 熟 知 的 蒸 馏 酒 tequila 则迟至 16 世纪才问世。依法规定，

tequila 须含至少 51% 的龙舌兰糖蜜。混酿的 tequila 常以甘蔗或玉米残糖替代，但百分百 蓝色龙舌兰才是不二首选，能散发极致的风味。 为了调制味道甘美的果味调酒，Khan 使 用了 100% 纯 tequila，另为增加酸度而混调 接骨木花酒，再综合现榨莱姆及葡萄柚汁、 苏打及葡萄柚苦精。就像菜肴需要盐及胡椒 提味一样，苦味也有催化调味的功效。鸡尾 酒 缀 以 长 条 葡 萄 柚 皮 薄 片、 盛 于 高 脚 杯 上 桌。他强调 ： 「接骨木花 Paloma 灵感来自墨 西 哥 广 受 欢 迎 的 饮 料 Paloma。Paloma 混 合

tequila 及葡萄柚苏打制成，并倒进盐口杯上 桌。喝我这款调酒，先有各种酸味袭向味蕾， 然后如有神来一笔般，tequila 味道漾起，尾 韵无懈可击。 」

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perfect pairs 最佳拍档

BRIAN MOORE, Group Executive Chef at Epicurean, has been working closely with Khan to

create an appealing assortment of sharing plates that mate perfectly with his cocktails. The duo have been exploring ways of fine-tuning drinks to deliver just the texture, seasoning, and acidity that will best bring out the flavors in each dish.

Cocktails essentially perform two functions when paired with food. First, they help clear the palate, preparing it for the next mouthful and ensuring that each of the tastes is distinctly present in every bite. They also enhance the food by mirroring or complementing the ingredients in a dish. Pure spirits like vodka make a good partnership with rich meats like lamb, because they help to cut through the fat.

Lighter and more fragrant fruit-juice-based drinks most often match well with delicate vegetarian dishes.

Khan and Moore share the mixological responsibilities between them, adroitly blending various herb-infused spirits into their cocktails. A simply seasoned lamb rib dish is teamed with rosemary-infused vodka, delivering the classic rosemary-and-lamb pairing with every sip. They also exploit the acidity of some fresh citrus juice or peel in a drink to help brighten the tastes of various foods. The pair relentlessly finesse the flavors in both dish and cocktail until they find the ultimate balance. “We taste and taste until we get it right,” says Moore. And the clientele seem to agree that the cocktail pairing menu at Post97 is almost certainly the most fun one can legally have with plants. 饕餮集团行政主厨 Brian Moore 向来跟 Khan 密切合作，以打造形形色色适合分 食，可以完美搭配鸡尾酒的餐点。两人一起摸索微调酒精的方式，达到最佳的 质地、风味和酸度，以带出每道菜的精华。

→ An organic sweet potato is roasted until perfectly caramelized, then bathed in a yuzu dressing to add a smoky sourness to the sweet flesh of the root. Paper-thin slices of fresh radish give a little crispiness to the dish, and spicy homemade pickled chilies provide a contrasting hint of fire.

Chef Moore carefully layers the dressing ingredients until every mouthful becomes a perfect synthesis of texture and taste. Khan recommends pairing the potato with a fruity and delicious “Detox Punch.”

先将有机番薯烘烤至焦糖化，再浸入柚子酱 中，替其甜根增加烟熏酸味；而薄如纸片的 新鲜萝卜则增加些微脆感，辛辣的家常腌渍 辣椒则凭添火热的韵味。 Moore小心翼翼地 把食材层层铺叠，确保每一口都能完美结合 口感与风味；Khan则推荐搭配带有果香的美 味「排毒潘趣酒」（Detox Punch）。

鸡尾酒跟食物搭配时，主要有两项功能 ：首先，鸡尾酒有助洗净味蕾余味， 好准备品尝下一口美食，确保能让味道层次分明。另外，鸡尾酒也有反映或衬 托食材的效果，提升食物整体风味。伏特加等纯烈酒就适合搭配味道浓烈的肉类，例如羊肉，因 为有助分解其中油脂 ；而具轻柔香气且以水果为基底的酒类，通常则搭配味道清淡的素食。 Khan 和 Moore 两人肩负混搭食材的重责大任，巧妙地将不同的草本烈酒揉合至鸡尾酒中。 简单调味过的羊肋排搭配的是迷迭香伏特加，每口都呈现迷迭香与羊肉共舞的经典滋味。两人也 善用新鲜柑橘果汁或果皮的酸味，以凸显不同食材的风味。无论是菜色或鸡尾酒的风味，两人都 能匠心独运地微调变化，只为了找到最佳的平衡。 Moore 表示 ： 「我们不断反覆品尝，直到味道 完美无缺才会罢休。」众多宾客似乎皆一致同意，Post97 的鸡尾酒搭配菜单的确充满了善用植蔬 的乐趣。

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↓ Potato lozenges are given a little marine flavor from the cooking juices of tender pieces of octopus. The two components are formed into delicious lollipops and topped with aromatic aioli. “Perfect to pair with a crisp and clean vodka martini to bring out the fresh seafood flavor,” advises Khan. 多亏了细切嫩章鱼烹调而成的酱汁，马铃薯片充满海洋风味。两种食 材结合成美味的章鱼棒，上头沾着蒜泥蛋黄酱。 Khan建议：「这道适 合搭配味道鲜明的伏特加马丁尼，以带出海鲜食材的鲜味。」

↑ This macho dish would make an ideal sharing plate for a group of cavemen—three roasted bones filled with delicious creamy marrow.

The rich marrow is scooped from the center of the bones and spread on toasted bread. A fresh herbal mojo, a traditional Spanish sauce made with garlic, oregano, parsley, rosemary, and tarragon, lifts the richness. Khan suggests pairing this Paleolithic platter with something crisp, like a beautifully acidic margarita, to help bring out the full flavors of the dish. 这道阳刚的菜色最适合一群大胃王分食：三支烤大骨，里头满是美味 浓郁的骨髓，骨髓还可挖起涂在烤面包上。另外，传统西班牙酱汁融 合了大蒜、奥勒冈草、西洋芹、迷迭香和龙蒿，注入新鲜的草本精 华，提升整体丰富感。 Khan建议，这道原始的美味应搭配清爽的鸡 尾酒，例如酸到好处的玛格丽特，以带出食材的完整风味。

→ Moore’s colorful dish is served with wonderfully mild but satisfyingly meaty Cantabrian anchovies. Khan proposes pairing this elegant platter with a drink having similar sour and earthy notes like a mojito or a South Side.

Moore的这道料理色彩丰富，以西班牙坎塔布连的鯷鱼为主角，味 道温和且肉质扎实。 Khan建议，这道优雅的菜色应搭配同带酸味 且具土香的鸡尾酒，例如莫希多或南芝加哥。

warm rose apple and nashi pie, vanilla ice cream, brandied custard, clotted cream: the ultimate in comfort food. We use the best produce to do comfort food really well! 温玫瑰苹果及洋梨派、香草冰淇淋、白兰地蛋 奶冻及凝脂奶油：「疗愈系」美食的极致莫此 为什，食材均是一时之选，品质无可挑剔。

tasting destination

早午餐聖地

brunch sanctuary By the waters of the Chao Praya, TK finds a tranquil spot for brunch with Executive Chef Jane-Therese Mulry of The Siam Bangkok. § 在昭匹耶河畔的一处幽静场所，TK 团队正和顶级曼谷暹罗酒店 (Siam Bangkok)行政总厨 Jane-Therese Mulry 共度早午餐悠闲时光。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

SEARCHING FOR A PEACEFUL SUNDAY BRUNCH within the throngs of Thailand’s busiest city is a challenge. Yet amidst the weaving tuk-tuks, chaotic noise and bustle of Bangkok, there is a precious pocket of tranquility.

To reach it, you must bypass the downtown traffic and cruise along the Chao Praya past the palaces and temples of the old town. The boat will dock at a beautiful country estate housing a luxury boutique hotel, The Siam. Here you can meander to a quiet spot in the gardens, by the pool or in a traditional teak house. Then spend the afternoon nestled in the cooling breezes and choose from a selection of exquisite dishes prepared by Executive Chef Jane-Therese Mulry.

Chef Mulry’s voyage to The Siam was similarly circuitous. Before conquering culinary Thailand, she chopped and cooked in the esteemed kitchens of South Africa, Britain and her native Australia. Now happily ensconced in this privately-owned, luxury Thai retreat, Mulry talks about her culinary journey and The Siam’s new brunch menu.

Tell me a little about you how arrived in Bangkok.

I actually spent my first year here studying nutrition and health, as those are subjects that fascinate me. Everyone thought I was going to open my own restaurant, but I really wanted to focus on my studies. As chefs, we need to keep doing more – we need to find a way to continue reinventing ourselves. Before I started my studies, I worked at an elite, privately-owned hotel on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia alongside The Siam’s general manager – that’s the connection that lured me to The Siam. I really enjoy working in a smaller hotel with a very high level of luxury, and being able to go the extra mile for guests. I also want to bring my knowledge of nutrition to the fore and create truly healthy dishes. We have a wonderful spa here, so there is plenty of opportunity and demand for me to make perfectly balanced meals.

I do want to help people to eat healthier.

Jane-Therese Mulry

在泰国，繁忙都市中熙来攘往，要找个静谧的地点 品尝早午餐可不容易 ；然而嘟嘟车如织、磨肩擦踵、 噪音此起彼落的曼谷城外却有块幽静的世外桃源。 要造访这个桃花源，要先穿过市中心的繁忙路段、 搭船顺着昭匹耶河而下，途经旧城区的皇宫及寺庙 ： 渡船停靠的乡间，便是豪华时尚新地标「曼谷暹罗 sunday rituals

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tasting tasting destination notes

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Tell me about the dining options at The Siam.

We have two gastronomic restaurants – a Thai and a Western. Chon Thai is our traditional Thai restaurant and has been winning awards. We serve authentic Thai dishes – we don’t fusion anything. That’s what the locals love so we attract many Thai clients. Westerners mostly come here to try Thai food, but when they do order Western dishes, they typically prefer comfort foods. We’ve also noticed that our Thai guests seem to love rich creamy sauces. So our Western restaurant, the chic, art-deco-inspired Deco Bar & Bistro, has a comfort food feeling and serves apple pie, lobster mac-n-cheese and other classics. We elevate them though, taking great produce and preparing the recipes really well. Sometimes the simple things in life are the best. We have ambitious plans for this hotel in the future, a few changes, so watch this space!

receive many overseas visitors. We were lucky at The Siam because of where we are situated, but we didn’t do what we could have done, had the political situation been better. Then again, when you do business, you need to move with the times and find ways to manage when things are unstable.

Can you give me an example?

After things calmed down we designed a brunch. Not a hotel buffet, stand-in-a-line, get-a-plate brunch. We don’t do buffets. We wanted to create a relaxing environment by the river, with beautiful lounge chairs, where you can order what you want. A relaxed brunch environment coupled with an a la carte style. We are enjoying it!

Were you familiar with Thai cuisine before working at The Siam?

I thought I was! But I wasn’t really. In Australia, the Thai food is not as authentic as it should be. They create unique twists and moves on recipes. The ingredients in Thailand are also fuller in flavor, and you have to get accustomed to working with them. I definitely know more about Thai food now. You learn every day here.

So what is the philosophy behind the menu for the a la carte brunch?

I want guests to find the menu accessible, so I will include a breakfast dish, a pasta, other foods people know and can relate to so they understand what they will savor. Because sometimes that is what you need. Not everybody likes to be surprised, and those who like new tastes still don’t want to be surprised every day or at every meal. Certain words come to mind when I think of what we are doing. Fresh. Elements of health. Sustainable. Ethical. We think about the environment and supporting the community – and these are all things that converge neatly.

When you think about developing a menu for a singular destination such as this, what’s your thought process: do you consider audience demographic, or are you reflecting on the destination itself? Would it be different here as compared to somewhere with the exact same clientele?

When planning a menu the questions are: Do we go cutting-edge? Or do we make ourselves accessible to the locals? Right now, the local Thai people are important clients.

Early this year, we struggled in Bangkok because of the political situation. We didn’t

Tell me how you support the community here at The Siam.

We support the King’s Project. This is a program set up years ago by His Majesty.

He wanted to give people something to do with their great fertile land in Thailand. Now he has some incredible farmers doing some incredible things – like growing organic produce. Our philosophy is farm to plate, so we know from where our produce originates. We try to use local, but we also want to harness the best available. It’s about getting out there, sourcing foods and educating ourselves about what is available.

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yum khai dow

Fried egg salad, minced pork, onion, tomato, celery, lime, chili: We mince pork from the north of Thailand, traditionally fry it, and toss it into a salad with tomatoes, fried egg, onion, celery and dressing. It’s a balance of sweet, sour and savory. That’s what I love about Thai food. Some people may find it hot, I find it balanced.

炒蛋沙拉、猪绞肉、洋葱、蕃茄、芹 菜、莱姆及辣椒：泰北猪肉搅碎后依传 统方式热炒，放入盛满蕃茄、炒蛋、洋 葱、芹菜的沙拉盘，最后淋上沙拉酱， 甜、酸、香辣美味平衡，一次满足。这 也是我对泰国菜爱不释手的原因，有 些人直喊辣，但我觉得味道很均衡。

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khao soi gai

Yellow curry noodles, corn fed chicken, spring onion crisp noodles, chili paste, onion, pickled cabbage, fresh lime: This is a yellow curry featuring chicken and freshly made egg noodles. It is accompanied by two sides: ground rice with chili (red condiment) for some heat, and diced onion and pickles for freshness.

黄咖喱面、玉米饲鸡、青葱酥面、 辣酱洋葱、腌高丽菜、新鲜莱姆： 黄咖喱鸡肉及新鲜鸡蛋面附两道配 菜：米末佐辣椒(红调味料)以提升热 度，洋葱丁及腌菜增添清爽感。

 pizza with salami, prosciutto,

chorizo, smoked ham, tomato, mozzarella, rocket

The Thais love pizzas. I think it’s because of the comfort food feeling pizza conveys. We know a great ham supplier who makes his own smoked ham and bacon. We pair these with fresh mozzarella, Parmesan and chorizo. Then the pizza is finished with fresh rocket.

腊肠、帕尔马火腿、chorizo​​西班牙腊 肠、烟熏火腿、蕃茄、水牛起司及芝 麻叶披萨：泰国人对披萨有种莫名的 喜爱，可能是下肚后最能感受到浓烈 的家乡味吧。我们从熟识的火腿供应 商买进品质精良的自制烟熏火腿和培 根，搭配新鲜的水牛起司、帕玛森起 司和chorizo​​腊肠，最后洒上鲜摘芝麻 叶就是令人食指大动的美味披萨。 sunday rituals

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tasting tasting destination notes

酒店」的所在地了。访客可以于花园漫步、 或于泳池边或传统柚造木屋旁的角落稍作 歇息 ；午后则可沐浴凉风之中，享用行政 总厨 Jane-Therese Mulry 制作的别致餐点。 总厨可说是旋风般落脚暹罗酒店，而到泰 国餐饮界一展身手之前，她曾于南非、英 国及家乡澳洲多处知名餐厅工作，现在来 到私人顶级泰式渡假村，颇为舒适快意。 Mulry 将与我们畅谈一路走来的经历以及 介绍暹罗酒店的全新早午餐菜色。

您是在什么机缘下来到曼谷？ 初来乍到，第一年主要上一些营养及 健康课程，这些都是我很有兴趣的科目。 当时大家以为我是来曼谷开餐厅，但事实 上我想先专心上课。当厨师，一定要广纳 新知，不断重塑、提升自己。来此上课前 我曾在澳洲大堡礁的私人顶级酒店工作， 并和暹罗酒店总经理一起共事，这也是促 成我后来落脚曼谷的原因。在奢华的高级 酒店工作感觉很棒，规模不大，但可以集 思广益为客人提供超水准的服务。我也想 在最前线发挥学到的营养学知识，精心制 作健康满点的菜肴。水疗疗程也是暹罗酒 店的一大亮点，因此也要配合创作兼顾美 味及健康的餐点。让大家吃得健康也是我 的目标之一。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

能否介绍一下暹罗酒店的多元菜色？ 酒店有两家分别是泰式及西式的顶级 餐厅。「Chon Thai」传统泰式餐厅营运至 今履获大奖肯定，供应地道泰国菜，不走 融合料理路线，培养了许多死忠的在地客 人。西方游客到此则想一尝传统泰国菜的 滋味，点西餐的话通常以简单的「疗愈系」 美食居多，泰国客人则偏好奶酱调味风味 浓厚的餐点。时髦、装饰艺术风的西式餐 厅「Deco Bar & Bistro」供应苹果派、龙虾 起司意大利面及各式经典「疗愈系」美食， 所用食材都经精挑细选，悉心烹调，美味 升级。有时简单的东西就能创造最棒的味 道。对于暹罗酒店我们还有很多远大的想 法、微调的空间，请拭目以待！ 到暹罗酒店前对泰式料理熟悉吗？ 我以为很熟，但其实不然。澳洲的泰 国料理不是特别地道，因为一路发展以来

加入了不少变化。泰国当地食材的味道丰 富多了，也要学着妥善运用才行。现在就 比较懂泰国菜了，毕竟到这之后每天都在 学习。

像暹罗酒店这样单一目的地类型的渡假村， 菜色的设计与发想过程为何 ：考量客层来 源，抑或单纯反映此地特色？对同样客源 来说，这里和其他地方又有何差别？ 设计过程中浮现的问题不外乎 ：要走 前卫创新路线吗，或让在地客群觉得平易 可亲？目前在地居民是酒店重要客源之一。 年初因为泰国政局动荡，生意受到影响， 外国客人不多，幸好酒店地缘关系，冲击 不大。当然政治情况稳定一些的话，餐厅 也能有更多发挥空间。话说回来，毕竟做 生意还是应该审时度势，即使局势不稳也 该找到平衡的方式。 能不能举个例子？ 目前我们正在构思早午餐菜单，但不 是那种排队拿盘子取餐的自助形式，这种 作法暂不考虑。我们要在河畔打造一个惬 意闲适的空间，坐在舒适悦目的躺椅上， 随心所欲点自己爱吃的餐点。在悠闲的气 氛下享用套餐式早午餐，怎能叫人不向往？ 套餐式早午餐想传达的理念为何？ 我们供应的菜单菜色都相当平易近人 ： 有早餐餐点、意大利面或其他客人熟知、 味道也不陌生的美点。有时这样就很棒了， 毕竟不是每个人都想要惊喜，即使喜欢尝 鲜的客人也可能不想每天或每餐都要惊喜 不断。手头上做的事大概可用几个词来总 结 ：新鲜、健康元素、永续和道德伦理。 我们时时考虑环境的重要性，也想回馈社 会，非常庆幸想做的事都水到渠成。 暹罗酒店如何支持在地社群？ 我们负责泰皇多年前发起的「国王计 画」：让在地人民有机会运用泰国肥沃的土 地种植作物。目前也看到不错的成效，有 小农专种有机作物或其他品质极佳的农产。 食材能做到从农地到餐盘一直线，是我们 的理念，这样才能掌握食材的源头。餐厅 大量采用地方农产，但不够好的可无法过 关。主要是要多出去走动接触，引进好的 食材，那就可以更了解手头上的资源了。

 som tum gai yang, green papaya

salad, snake beans, tomato, dried shrimps, peanuts, lime, chili

Dish is typically served with half a chargrilled spring chicken. Green papaya and carrot are the traditional ingredients. We use a wooden pestle and mortar, put the chili and garlic in a bowl and pound them.

Add snake beans and fish sauce.

This becomes the dressing, then we toss in the papaya and carrot. 这道菜通常伴着半只炭烤春鸡上桌。 青木瓜及红萝卜为传统食材，辣椒 及大蒜放进木钵捣碎，加入蛇豆 及鱼酱便是沙拉酱汁，最后再放入 木瓜及萝卜即可。



quinoa and warm roast vegetables, Jerusalem artichokes, chickpeas, rosemary pesto

This is a healthy dish. Quinoa is a naturally gluten-free grain. We use black, red and white varieties, and combine them with different vegetables, including Jerusalem artichoke, which is grown in Thailand as well. I like to wash the artichoke, cut it and cook with olive oil and thyme so it becomes really earthy and tastes like you just picked a stone out of the garden. This epitomizes our philosophy of garden to plate.

藜麦及温烤时蔬、耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟、鹰 嘴豆迷迭香青酱：这道料理健康满分。 藜麦为不含麸质的天然作物，在此使 用黑、红及白色三种藜麦，搭配多种蔬 菜，包括泰国在地种植的耶路撒冷朝鲜 蓟。朝鲜蓟作法很简单，洗净切段后， 加点橄榄油及百里香一起煮， 就能散 发大地的味道，像在花园捡颗石头起来 闻一样原始、不假修饰，也和餐厅「 菜园直接到餐盘」的理念不谋而合。



french toast, whipped ricotta, candied orange, truffled honey

American French toast comes with bacon. We serve ours with ricotta cheese and truffle honey blended with hints of orange and vanilla.

法式吐司、意式ricotta起司酱、橙皮糖 及松露蜂蜜：美国法式土司搭配培根， 在暹罗酒店还加上意式ricotta起司及 松露蜂蜜，并增添柑橘及香草调味。 sunday rituals

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presented by banyan tree macau

寻常美味现风华

lost and found Chef Robby, Chef de Cuisine of Belon at Banyan Tree Macau, introduces a new menu that brings new glamour to delicacies that are often overlooked.

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Seared Hokkaido Scallops, Himalayan Salt, Truffle Quinoa 炙烧北海道扇贝佐喜玛拉雅玫瑰盐及松露藜麦

Wagyu Beef Tongue, Banana Heart Salad,

One of Belon’s signature dishes prepared at tableside, the seared Hokkaido scallops is a dish that stimulates the senses: the fresh scent of thyme when the lid is lifted, the sight of the pink Himalayan salt slab glowing white hot, the gentle sizzle of the shellfish. The sashimi grade scallops are lightly seared to a delicate gold for less than two minutes on the slab. Their succulent flesh absorbs just enough salt from the cooking surface to contrast with its natural sweetness. The chewy, almost crunchy texture of the quinoa, infused with earthy truffle, completes the sensory experience.

Chef Robby riffs on a classically French-inspired ox tongue terrine, adding an Asian twist by pairing it with banana heart, a popular Southeast Asian ingredient that has a texture both crisp and tender, similar to that of bamboo shoots. The resulting dish is a delightful study in contrasts of both tastes and textures. It derives much of its umami from the wagyu beef’s naturally high fat content, which is balanced beautifully by the acidity of the accompanying pickles, banana hearts, and carrots. And the tenderness of the terrine is set off by the playful juxtaposition of the crunchy vegetables. The carrots are worthy of special note—they’ve been blanched and dried to produce a uniquely chewy texture.

说到「贝隆」的招牌桌边料理，绝对不能不提美味满点的五感料理

– 炙烧北海道扇贝 ：壳开时扑鼻的新鲜百里香韵致、喜玛拉雅玫瑰 DAVID HARTUNG (2)

盐块在高温下闪耀的白炙色泽，以及扇贝滋滋作响的美味音符，真 可谓色香味俱全。 生鱼片等级的新鲜扇贝放在盐块上，炙烧不用两 分钟，表面便呈金黄色。鲜嫩多汁的贝肉吸收了海盐精华，搭配贝 类特有的鲜甜相得益彰。藜麦扎实、几近酥脆的口感配上带有土地 气息的松露，为这道精彩的感官飨宴添上完美注解。

Roasted Sesame Dressing 和牛牛舌、芭蕉心沙拉及烘烤芝麻佐料

Robby 以法式经典美味牛舌冻派为本即兴发挥，融合亚洲元素，搭 配东南亚常见的芭蕉心，增添竹笋般的爽脆及软嫩口感，大功告成 后味道及口感均形成完美对比。和牛油脂成份高，孕育出独特鲜甜 滋味， 搭配酸黄瓜、 芭蕉心及萝蔔的酸味恰到好处。总厨还别具巧思， 精选多种鲜脆时蔬，正好衬托牛肉入口即化的口感。这道菜中的萝 卜也应记一功，经多道工法特制，焯烫晾干后口感非常扎实。 SUNDAY RITUALS | TK |

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16 Hour Braised Australian Lamb Neck with Cumin 16 小时慢炖澳洲羊颈佐小茴香 Belon’s braised lamb neck, combining a classic spring meat with winter root vegetables, is a celebration of spring after the passing of winter. The normally tough cut is browned well to a deep golden color and cooked sous vide at a low temperature for sixteen hours until it has been transformed into fall-off-the-bone tender meat. Embracing lamb’s natural gaminess, Chef Robby spices it with cumin to give it a sultry, intoxicating complexity. Served tableside, the lamb is deboned and plated over celery root mousseline and carrot croutons. 「贝隆」慢炖羔羊颈融合春季代表肉类羔羊肉 及冬季根茎类叶菜，象徵严冬后春回大地的 喜悦。难以处理的羊颈肉炖煮入味，闪耀深邃 的金黄色泽，经真空低温烹调 16 小时，煮至肉 骨分离，肉质软嫩。羊肉特有的骚味在主厨手中 化为美味元素，以小茴香提味后，散发撩人的风味。 羊颈肉现点后于桌边去骨、装盘时置入西洋芹、萝蔔 及麵包块即可上桌。

Slow Cooked Wagyu Beef Oxtail, Sea Cucumber, Pickle and Carrot 慢熬牛尾佐海参、酸黄瓜及萝蔔 “I put the oxtail and sea cucumber together like two good friends,” says Chef Robby. Oxtail’s gristle contains natural collagen that, when cooked sous vide at 80 degrees Celsius for twelve hours, breaks down to leave meltingly tender morsels of meat. They commingle with the gelatinous sea cucumber to produce a silky mouth feel and a full, rich flavor that is counterbalanced by the sweet and acidic pickles. Delicate sticks of chive are arranged artfully atop bright carrots to gratify the eye as well as the palate. 说到这道菜，总厨有个妙喻 ： 「牛尾和海参，搭起来就像好 朋友一样无懈可击。 」牛尾软骨富含天然胶质，在摄氏 80 度的真空低温下慢煮十二小时之后，质地柔嫩，美味于舌 尖化开。牛尾搭配胶质丰富的海参，口感如丝绸般绵密， 饱满丰厚的味道搭配酸甜兼具的酸黄瓜，吃来不油不腻。 摆盘时将香葱条巧妙置于闪耀明亮色泽的萝蔔上，有如艺 术作品一般，既满足味蕾之余更赏心悦目。

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presented by banyan tree macau

Monkfish Cheek, “Clambake” with Lemon Grass, Szechuan Peppers, Brown Lentil Stew, Collard Greens 鮟鱇鱼颊、「烧烤蛤蛎」佐柠檬草、四川花椒、炖扁豆及甘蓝叶

Taking inspiration from seaside clambakes, Chef Robby elevates casual beach fare to gourmet heights by replacing the traditional fire pit with a pot of pink Himalayan salt blocks, fresh lemon grass, Szechuan peppers, and monkfish cheeks. After a brief stint in the oven, the pot is uncovered tableside, releasing a burst of fresh citrus fragrance. Served over a bed of lentil stew, the tender, meaty cheek medallions have a mildly sweet flavor that is aptly complemented by a tangy bell pepper salsa. The subtle tingle of the Szechuan peppers lingers on the palate long after the dish has been finished.

夏日海滩时常上演的烧烤蛤蛎到了 Robby 手中便能 摇身一变成为餐厅等级的美馔，不同之处在于传统 的篝火烤炉换成汇合了喜玛拉雅玫瑰盐块、新鲜柠 檬草、四川花椒及鮟鱇鱼颊的烤锅。烤锅烤一下即 可端上桌，打开锅盖后柑橘香芬扑鼻而来。新鲜食 材下铺着美味的慢炖扁豆，软糯且充满肉香的颊肉 带着些许甜味，和着甜椒莎莎酱的冲鼻劲道简直是 天作之合。四川花椒呛麻味道细緻，用餐后仍齿颊 留香、久久不散。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

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presented by city of dreams macau

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寿司职人

shokunin of sushi

DAVID HARTUNG

Shinji Kanesaka brings his masterful Edomae style of sushi to City of Dreams’ exciting new restaurant, Shinji by Kanesaka at Crown Towers.

THERE ARE SUSHI CHEFS, and there are sushi masters – and then there are the shokunin, supreme artisans who are single-minded and uncompromising in the continuous pursuit of perfection in their craft. “The passion must come from within the heart to find expression in the sushi,” explains Shinji Kanesaka, who most assuredly knows whereof he speaks.

Shinji Kanesaka is a shokunin.

You sense it in the way he takes careful measure of a fish and knows whether it is ready to be prepared and served immediately or if its taste and texture would improve with another day of aging. You sense it in the way he gently, almost reverently, handles the fish to determine where and at what angle to cut, and the degree of thinness or thickness for each piece – the perfect cut varies from fish to fish and such knowledge comes only with many years of practice and experience.

在寿司界有寿司师傅、寿司大师，还有些 人被尊称为「职人」，指全身心投入寿司厨 艺，追求极致完美，成就卓越的顶级匠师。 金坂真次表示 ： 「对于寿司，必须具备源自 内心的热情」。 金坂真次即是一位职人。他处理鱼肉 非常谨慎，完全掌握食材的料理和出菜时 间，如果食材再放置一天，味道与口感又 是否能再提升。他握取鱼肉时小心翼翼， 以近乎敬畏的姿态，选择下刀的位置、角 度，以及切片的厚薄度，每种鱼类适合的 刀工方式都不同，须累积长年的演练与经 验，才能有所体会。 看着他一道道刀横划过鱼身，刀工俐 落而敏捷，连擦刀手势都如此细腻。 接着他捏取份量精准的芥末，分毫不 差 — 鱼类搭配的芥末量不同，金坂师傅以 纯熟手法捏塑寿司，用手指在另一手心中 反覆捏压，速度极快，以精确掌控冰冷的 鲜鱼和温热的醋饭，因每种鱼类适宜食用 的温度不同。最后，在鱼身上轻轻刷上一

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Ingredients are flown in from Japan three times a week.

Clockwise from upper left: aji (horse mackerel), sayori (halfbeak), kohada (gizzard shad), saba (mackerel), yuzu (pomelo), sudachi (citrus), hamaguri (clam), anago (sea water eel), and kuruma ebi (tiger prawn).

You sense it in the smooth, deft strokes of his knife as he slices along the lines of the fish and in the care with which he wipes the knife clean.

You see it in the way he unerringly places a precise dab of wasabi – the perfect quantity varies from fish to fish. You see it as he dexterously shapes and molds the sushi with light, repeated pressure of his fingers against the morsel held in his opposite palm, then works quickly and efficiently to control the coolness of the fish and the warmth of the rice – the perfect temperature for each varies from fish to fish. You see it in the final touch, a delicate brush of soy sauce across the fish, and you recognize it in the look in his eyes as he presents the result.

But it is only when you finally taste the sushi that you truly understand and appreciate his shokunin honorific. The rice is seasoned simply with salt and a Japanese red vinegar called akazu. It is cooked just enough to leave a hint of bite, and Master Kanesaka packs it firmly enough to retain its shape and support the fish, yet loosely enough to break apart easily into separate grains when eaten. The slight warmth emanating from the rice subtly enhances the

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fish’s natural flavor and aroma, the wasabi adds a high note, and the soy sauce melds all the elements together. It is a masterpiece.

The master stays true to the classic Edomae tradition of his original restaurant, Sushi Kanesaka Ginza in Tokyo.

Shinji by Kanesaka at City of Dreams extols the same virtues of simplicity by emphasizing pure, authentic flavors from the freshest, highest quality ingredients.

All of the fish is hand selected by Master Kanesaka in Tokyo and flown to Macau three or four times a week. The rice is cooked in small batches and regularly renewed to ensure optimal temperature and freshness. Even the wasabi is freshly grated on a nearly continuous basis to prevent any loss of flavor or pungency.

While the restaurant features four private rooms, the best seats in the house are to be found in the main dining room lining a sushi counter that has been crafted from 200-year-old Japanese cypress. There Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi and Senior Sous Chef Kenichi Fujimoto demonstrate their artistry one omakase course at a time, pausing just long enough for guests to savor each morsel before moving on to their next sushi showstopper.

层酱油，递给客人的一刹那，可以从金坂 师傅的眼神中看到一抹职人灵魂。 等到入口品尝的那一刻，你才真正体 会到，金坂师傅确实不愧职人的称号。米 饭以称为 akazu 的日本红醋和少许盐巴调 味，煮的恰到好处，颗粒分明。金坂师傅 捏饭力道适中，让醋饭松紧有致，既能保 持形状完整，承载鱼肉重量不至于散开， 又让人轻轻一咬就散开，米饭的微温，搭 配鱼肉天然的味道与香气，两者相得益彰， 芥末的辛辣如同画龙点睛，酱油则是将所 有的元素巧妙融合，堪称大师之作。 金坂师傅坚持传统江户前寿司风格， 源自于他位于东京银座本店的东京鮨かね さか（Sushi Kanesaka），而澳门新濠天地 的「金坂极上寿司」也延续传统，采取质 朴风格，使用新鲜顶级的食材，追求纯正 道地的风味。该店食材皆由位于东京的金 坂师傅亲自挑选，每周四次由东京直送澳 门，店内米饭皆是少量烹煮，定期更换， 以确保最佳温度与鲜度，连芥末都是新鲜 现磨，以免流失辛辣味。 「金坂极上寿司」内设有四间私人包厢， 但最佳的用餐位置是在主厅寿司台前，采 用树龄达两百年的日本扁柏所打造。行政 主 厨 Toru Osumi 与 资 深 副 厨 Kenichi Fujimoto 在此展现精湛厨艺，呈献正宗日式「大 厨发办」 （Omakase）飨宴，每道料理间都 预留充分时间，让食客能细细品尝美馔。

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

新鲜食材由日本空运，一周 三次。自左上角顺时钟依 序为：池鱼、水针鱼、小 肌、鲭鱼、柑橘、酢橘、 文蛤、海鳗和车海老。

↑ Sesame Tofu 芝麻豆腐 ↗ Nigiri Sushi: Horse Mackerel, Clam, Omelet, Sea Eel and Japanese Tiger Prawn 手握寿司： 竹荚鱼， 文蛤， 蛋卷， 海鳗和日本虎虾

↑ Kobe Beef marinated with Yuzu Miso 柚子味增酱烤神户牛肉 ↖ Sushi Maestro Shinji Kanesaka 寿司料理长金坂真次

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纯正和食

purely japanese

Tenderloin Foie Gras Hoba Yaki Grilled wagyu tenderloin and foie gras with sesame miso sauce on hoba leaf 朴叶石烧和牛柳及鹅肝伴胡麻面豉酱

Tracing its heritage through the noblest traditions of tempura, Tenmasa explores the outer reaches of freshness.

TAKENORI NOGUCHI, Chef de Cuisine at Tenmasa, never measures when he makes tempura batter. He senses the precise amounts of flour, egg, and water, controlling the consistency with deft strokes of his chopsticks. After massaging the maki prawns, he dips each by the tail in the batter and releases it into the bubbling oil.

Switching to a long pair of metal chopsticks, he swirls the prawns gingerly, monitoring their progress by means of two subtle signals: vibrations through the chopsticks and the sound of the sizzle.

“It’s difficult to explain,” says Chef Takenori. “But when the batter and the temperature are right, it’s like classical music.”

It’s a harmony that can be heard only by a master in Tenmasa’s refined art form, where crispy batter is not the highest priority. The loftier objective is to zero in on the main ingredient and let its freshness shine through. Tenmasa’s batter acts as a protective shell within which the sashimi-grade seafood steams to a perfect medium rare

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Chef Takenori Noguchi finds maki prawns the most challenging tempura dish, because they are traditionally served first and must set the stage for everything that follows. 竹虾天妇罗对总厨野口武则而言最具挑战性。竹虾通常为首道料理，背负为套餐定调的重大责任。

and the natural flavors are fully retained.

After eight years helming the only Tenmasa outside Japan, Chef Takenori continues to go beyond tempura with specialty dishes that have won a five-star rating from Forbes Travel Guide . The tenderloin foie gras hoba yaki is seasoned with sesame miso and

expertly grilled at the table. And the unique stone bowl baked porridge demonstrates a nuanced understanding in the selection of seasonal produce. Every innovation succeeds by following Tenmasa’s original guiding principle: purity of flavor from the very best ingredients.

presented by altira macau 「天政」行政总厨野口武则在调制天妇罗面衣 时从不使用量匙，而是以精准手感拿捏面粉、 蛋及水的份量，再以筷子搅拌控制浓稠，动 作相当熟练。竹虾下锅前他先悉心按摩虾肉， 抓着虾尾沾上面衣，旋即放入冒泡的滚烫热 油中。总厨接着换拿金属长筷为炸虾翻身， 同时藉由筷身传来的振动及油炸声这两种「蛛 丝马迹」来掌控烹调时间。野口总厨表示： 「真 的很难说明，但若面衣和温度配合的刚刚好， 听起来就和古典乐差不多。 」 这种悦耳声响，只有「天政」天妇罗技艺 大师等级的才听得到。到此境界，面衣是否 酥脆已非第一优先考量。重点实为食材本身， 让鲜味彻底展现才是最崇高的目标。 「天政」 的面衣形同保护罩，让裹复在内的生鱼片等 级海鲜煮至三分熟，保留完整天然风味。 野口总厨坐镇日本名店「天政」海外唯 一分店的八年中，致力让天妇罗的美味更上 一层楼，用心获「富比士旅游指南」五星评 价的高度肯定。和牛柳及鹅肝朴叶石烧以胡 麻面豉酱调味，由大厨发挥「职人」技术于桌 边碳烤完成 ；独一无二的石锅炊粥则可让饕 客细细品嚐严选季节时鲜的美妙滋味。每道 创新菜色都以「天政」的料理哲学为最高指 导原则 ：体现最佳食材的纯粹美味。

Stone bowl Baked Porridge Stone bowl baked porridge with Japanese ice fish tempura in shark’s fin sticky sauce 炸白饭鱼饼配鱼翅茨石锅粥

Tempura Platter 杂锦天妇罗 Ingredients are flown in from Japan four times a week. Counterclockwise from upper left: conger eel, sea urchin wrapped in dried seaweed, maki prawn, shiitake mushroom, sweet potato, asparagus, turnips, eggplant, ginko nuts, and lotus root. 新鲜食材自日本空运直送，一周四次。自左上角逆时钟依序为： 星鳗, 海胆紫菜卷, 竹虾, 日本冬菇, 甘薯, 芦笋, 萝卜, 茄子,白果和莲藕。

Smoky Jack 烟熏杰克 Cold smoke aromatized by bourbon-soaked wood chips infuses Jack Daniels and Amaretto. 木片淋上波本威士忌，为冷烟带来酒香，以烟雾瀰漫 衬托Jack Daniels 威士忌及Amaretto杏仁甜酒美味。

presented by city of dreams macau

←← Lan’s Interior 「岚」全新装潢 Cool colors and dramatic lighting transform the space from quiet afternoons to intimate evenings. 时髦色调及戏剧性灯光效果 让酒廊完全变身，静谧午后 转换成私密夜间风格。 ← Green Tea Pastries 绿茶慕丝蛋糕 White chocolate mousse, matcha crémeux, praline feuillantine, and matcha sponge cake combine to deliver a captivating contrast in textures and flavors. 这款甜点由白巧克力慕丝、绿茶奶 油千层酥及绿茶海绵蛋糕组成，不 论是丰富的口感还是特别的味道， 都有着让人难以抵抗的魅力。

日夜两相宜

day and night Afternoons and evenings are equally perfect times to unwind in the cool calm of the newly redesigned Lan at Crown Towers.

LAN HAS EMERGED from its two-month makeover with sleek décor and

澳门皇冠渡假酒店 (Crown Towers) 大堂酒廊「岚 (Lan)」历

more intimate seating that make for a truly impressive transition from chic daytime lounge to glamorous nighttime bar. Everything is new, from chair fabrics, furnishings, and carpeting to the raised bar and matching coffee tables. The chandelier, always the bar’s signature piece, has been centered in the room to serve as a striking new focal point.

Cool blues and muted grey notes convey serene style, the ideal backdrop for casual afternoon coffee or tea. Director of Culinary Operations Christophe Duvernois has composed a menu of imaginative indulgences, executed with French flair and fusing complementary and contrasting flavors and textures.

His madeleines and macarons pay homage to those of the classic patisseries of Paris.

When evening arrives, the room’s colors recede as lighting takes center stage. Overheads are lowered and the shimmering chandelier and spotlit bar dramatically transform the space into a sophisticated cocktail bar. With seating for just eighteen, the relaxed ambiance takes on a sense of privacy that is perfectly suited to quiet conversation or an intimate tête-à-tête.

经两个月整修后时尚变身，装潢别緻，特制座椅舒适怡人，

Lan’s newly introduced extended menu of specialty cocktails offers something for every mood. The popular Passion Kiss and Amber are light and refreshing bracers. Golden Crown is rich, creamy, and guaranteed to gratify the most ardent chocolate lover. Smoky Jack, originally conceived with gentlemen in mind, is a drink potent enough for any confirmed aficionado of good bourbon.

从白天的时髦酒廊变为夜晚觥筹交错的酒吧，转换裕如。踏 入「岚」 ，从椅套、各种家饰、地毯、挑高吧台到相应的咖啡桌， 眼见所及之处无不焕然一新。酒廊的象徵 - 水晶吊灯也被移 到餐厅正中位置，作为崭新内装的视觉主轴。 冷调蓝加上温和灰色系营造出的静谧风格，非常适合来 杯咖啡或下午茶，尽享惬意时光。餐饮部营运总监 Christophe

Duvernois 发挥个人想像，特制融合法式风味的各式糕点，味 道及口感既互补又有着冲突，定能满足老饕挑剔的味蕾。他的 玛德琳及马卡龙保有巴黎老饼铺的传统口味，着实为精彩的致 敬之作。 夜幕低垂时，廊内原有的色彩装饰退居二线，换成极富 情调的灯光担演主角踏上主舞台。垂下的头顶嵌灯、暧暧内 含光的吊灯，以及聚光灯所在的吧台交织出气氛绝佳的一流 鸡尾酒吧。厅内仅有 18 个座位，让来此享受轻鬆氛围的客人 能同时享有隐私，彷彿是为低声交谈或私密会面量身打造的 舒适场合。 「岚」新推出了特别鸡尾酒单来迎合客人的不同情绪及 需求。人气居高不下的「Passion Kiss」及「Amber」都是恬淡、 爽口的酒精饮料 ； 「Golden Crown」口感丰富绵密，保证让 巧克力爱好者大呼过瘾。 「烟熏杰克」为风度翩翩的绅士打造， 绝妙滋味让一心寻求顶级波本威士忌的酒迷也为之倾倒。

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别出心裁、匠心独运

creatively cantonese Executive Chef Benson Fok of Dynasty Restaurant at Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong has composed a celebration menu that raises classic Cantonese cuisine to a luxurious new level.

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「香港从前是个小渔村」 ，霍炳江边说边将馅料塞进蟹壳，手 法俐落， 「所以广东菜中海鲜特别出名。 」总厨忙着准备的正 是「满福楼」新推出的「礼宴」套餐，通过改良经典粤菜， 注入奢华元素后重新推出。他特地说明手头上的这道菜 ： 「做 这道菜通常只用蟹肉，但我特别加入扇贝让味道及口感更丰 富。 」另一道海鲜美馔则主打鲜嫩龙虾肉，搭配土壤气味浓 厚的蘑菇及香气浓郁的松露油特製酱汁，宛如一场丰盛的味 觉盛宴。 「满福楼」餐厅的装潢与设备同样散发豪华气息 ：白天 可眺望港边游艇、夜间可欣赏九龙绚烂夺目的天际线，美景 令人屏息； 餐具也都是一时之选，骨瓷为特别订製，设计精良， 更添餐厅的华贵气质。侍酒师在桌边提供专业建议，为顾客 挑选餐酒，让每道菜嚐来更加美味。 总厨强调，餐厅的美仑美奂自有一番道理 – 在赏心悦目 的环境下享用美食，用餐的人也会更加高雅。 「我们的招牌 料理「二十五头花胶」味道甘美，并有震撼性的视觉效果， 是专属宴会派对的大菜，而且大家都说胶质能让皮肤更漂 亮。 」这道菜和其他新推出的料理一样，均体现霍炳江多年 坚持的原则 ： 「从品质最好、最新鲜的食材着手，以传统作 法为起点， 再加入当代元素， 展现独特的个人风格。这就是『满 福楼』遵行不悖的烹饪哲学，也是广东菜的精髓所在。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“HONG KONG used to be a fishing village,” says Fok, deftly stuffing the shell of a crab. “That’s why Cantonese cuisine is so famous for seafood.” The dish he prepares is part of Dynasty’s new celebration menu that updates traditional Cantonese favorites with touches of extravagance. “This dish is conventionally made with crab meat only,” he explains, “but I’ve added scallops to enrich both the flavor and texture.” Another seafood offering features tender lobster matched with a sauce of earthy mushrooms and aromatic truffle oil for an opulent flavor hit.

Dynasty’s interior and appointments are equally opulent, with dramatic views of yachts in the harbor by day and the glittering lights of Kowloon’s skyline at night. Custom-designed Narumi bone china features a delicate fairy design to add magic to any occasion. An expert sommelier stands by to advise guests with precision on wines that will best complement each dish.

According to Fok, beautiful food served in beautiful surroundings is said to bestow beauty on those who eat it. “Our magnificent twenty-five head fish maw dish is delectable and visually stunning—a real party piece,” he says. “The collagen is said by some to make the skin more beautiful.” This dish, like each one on the new menu, epitomizes his philosophy as a chef: “I take the finest and freshest ingredients, start with a traditional recipe, and add contemporary elements to make it uniquely my own. It’s what we do at Dynasty, and it’s the true spirit of Cantonese cuisine.”

presented by renaissance harbour view hotel hong kong

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Baked Crab Shell Stuffed with Scallops and Crab Meats 至尊焗酿带子蟹盖

A Whole 25 Heads Fish Maw Stewed with Sea Cucumber 翡翠原只二十五头花胶扣海参

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Baked Lobster with Truffle Oil 松露油焗龙虾

Executive Chef Benson Fok 行政总厨霍炳江

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Char-grilled Wagyu Tomahawk Beef served with Mediterranean Vegetables on Rosemary Skewers 澳洲战斧和牛排配香草时令蔬菜

presented by cova

意式风情 经典传承

essentially italian In 1817, the glamorous COVA Caffè opened on the piazza of La Scala opera house in Milan.

Two centuries later, COVA Ristorante in Hong Kong has become an equally elegant gathering place.

“WE WANT OUR GUESTS to feel relaxed as they experience the true pleasures of dining,” says F&B Director Daniele Cremonini. COVA’s rooms are warmly welcoming, with a discreetly opulent décor. The bone china, gleaming silver, and crisp linens serve as backdrop to an expertly executed menu.

The inspired offerings of Executive Chef Sergio Landi include a plate of sweet and meaty, thinly sliced scallops, garnished with delicate strips of asparagus, fennel, and radish. COVA imports the best giant scallops daily, delivered live from Japan.

Landi is half Tuscan and half Neapolitan, Cremonini is from Modena, the restaurant has its roots in Milan, and so COVA features authentic Italian cooking methods from all these regions using fresh prime products sourced from around the world. Milan‘s signature ingredient, saffron, combines with sweet wine to make a fragrant sauce for line-caught cod from France. “Wild fish swim free and feed naturally,” says Cremonini. “Our delicate cooking technique brings out the melting tenderness and incredibly rich flavor that farmed fish just can’t match. And at COVA we believe that respecting nature is an important part of creating food that is simple, fresh, and elegant.”

A vibrantly red-hued pasta dish from the South exhibits delicate red prawns and sweet cherry tomatoes imported from Italy. And Tuscan technique enhances a magnificent slab of wagyu beef from Australia known as the tomahawk, a cut served on its long rib bone, since meat closest to the bone has the finest flavor. It is accompanied by a vivid stack of Mediterranean yellow and green zucchini, gently skewered with a sprig of rosemary. “This steak weighs nearly a kilogram,” says Cremonini. “It can serve three, but sometimes it’s just too delicious to share!”

「COVA」餐饮总监 Daniele Cremonini 强调 :「我们希望客人能够轻松享受餐 点带来的愉悦快感。 」餐厅装潢华丽 , 有着宾至如归的温暖氛围。 餐桌上精 致的骨瓷、闪闪发亮的银器及色调清爽的亚麻桌布 , 完美衬托精心打造的美

↑ Spaghettoni Mancini with Red Prawn, Fresh Tomato, & Own Bisque 意大利红虾意粉配特浓酱汁 ↑ Giant Live Sea Scallop with Baby Gem Salad 薄切鲜日本珍宝带子，鲜嫩沙律 ↓ Pan-Fried Wild Cod Filet, Roasted Onions, Braised Endive, Saffron 香煎法国野生鳕鱼柳伴烧洋葱

馔。行政总厨 Sergio Landi 精心炮制的菜色包括味道鲜甜、肉质丰厚的薄切 带子， 搭配精选芦笋、 茴香及白萝卜条。 「COVA」严选在日本现捕的巨型带子， 再每天直送至餐厅厨房，鲜美非常。 总厨有来自托斯卡尼和拿坡里的血统，总监出身北方城市莫德纳 , 品牌 则是由米兰起家 ；因此在 COVA 可以尝试到来自意大利各区域不同的烹饪风 格，用上精选自全球的新鲜食材，美味毋庸置疑。米兰的代表食材番红花和 甜酒做成芳香的酱汁 , 完美搭配法国野生鳕鱼的软嫩肉质。Cremonini 解释 : 「在天然环境下成长的海鱼 , 肉質嬌嫩且帶有新鮮的原始味道，一般的养殖鱼 根本无可比拟。再经我们精心烹调后更能提升鮮味和口感。我们相信尊重大 」 自然 , 才是展现 “ 简约－新鲜－优雅 ” 这烹调哲学的最要元素。 DAVID HARTUNG (4)

引人入胜的南意风味意大利面闪烁鲜红色泽，满载精致红虾肉及意大 利进口的香甜圣女蕃茄。来自澳洲的厚切和牛质量非凡，由于愈接近骨头的 肉，味道愈好，餐厅因而精选有着「战斧牛排」之称的长肋骨部位，配以用 于托斯卡尼著名的佛罗伦萨牛排上的完美烹饪手法 , 令人无可挑剔。 配上大 量色彩斑斓的地中海黄色及绿色栉瓜，再以一小枝迷迭香作点缀，风味绝佳。 「一块牛排将近一公斤，足够三人分着吃，但有时真的好吃得只想独享！」 sunday rituals

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慵闲周末 相约银河

lazy sundays at galaxy macau Sunday is a day to be treasured – a time to unwind after the week past and a final opportunity to recharge for the next.

Each Sunday shines in its own way, but common threads are food, drink, and fun. These three essentials can be found in abundance in the relaxed settings of Galaxy Macau. 难得的周日时光打算怎么度过？能为过去一周的辛勤努力 好好放松，也是能为新的一周充电、注入能量的最后机 会。好好享受星期天的方式很多，但最重要的是能享受美 食、享用好酒与尽情玩乐。在「澳門銀河™」综合渡假城 内三家惬意氛围的餐厅，将能满足您所有的放松需求。

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Cascades 水帘

W H E N T H E D U C H E S S of Bedford first established the tradition of afternoon tea in Victorian England, not even she could have imagined the heights it would reach each weekend at Cascades’ Afternoon Tea Buffet. On Saturdays and Sundays in relaxing surroundings, and with a vast selection of tempting dishes to meet any appetite for things savory or sweet, guests are lavished with a bounteous array of international offerings. Alongside all the classic English teatime favorites are a variety of authentic Asian delicacies like Chinese dim sum and Malaysian satays.

Guests are particularly impressed by the interactive stations, where they can engage directly with the chefs and watch their skills

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

presented by galaxy macau

up close. Each dish in the buffet, whether light and crispy or hot and sizzling, is perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. The menu is frequently updated to take full advantage of the freshest seasonal ingredients and also to celebrate the year’s special holidays and festivals. Everything from Peking duck to mini beef and foie gras burgers, from a laksa noodle bar to Sacher Torte, has been featured as part of Cascades’ lavish offerings.

The buffet beckons diners back with irresistible sweets, including handcrafted pastries that taste even better than they look. And the free-flowing fountain of chocolate – milk, rose or pandan – reminds both children and adults to leave plenty of room for dessert.

Cascades’ afternoon tea buffet is available every weekend from 2 to 6pm.

英式下午茶诞生于维多利亚时期，但建立这美好传统的贝佛公爵夫人 不会猜到，这优雅的活动能在澳门银河「水帘」餐厅的下午茶自助餐 得到升华，发扬光大。客人于每个周末均能在悠闲舒适的环境中，享 用种类包罗万象的无国界美食 ；不论是咸点还是甜点，这些精心制作 的美味定能令你回味再三。除了经典的英式下午茶点，还有正宗亚洲 特色小吃 ：中式饮茶的点心和马来西亚风味的沙嗲。 让顾客流连忘返的互动料理台 ：他们能在台前直接与主厨面对面， 欣赏主厨精湛的厨艺。不论是清爽酥脆或是麻辣有劲的美点，都是精 心准备，口味及卖相均是绝佳。餐厅选用最新鲜的当季食材，因此菜 单定期推陈出新，同时会配合节庆推出主题菜单。从北京烤鸭到迷你 牛肉鹅肝汉堡，从叻沙到萨赫蛋糕，你的味蕾定能在水帘得到满足。 自助餐台上也摆出各式让人无法抗拒的甜点，包括各式精致手工 蛋糕，外观诱人而口味更是一绝。更定期推出不同口味的巧克力喷泉， 如牛奶巧克力、玫瑰或班兰口味，提醒着大人小孩都别忘了在胃里为 这些可口甜点留点空间。 水帘下午茶自助餐开放时间为每周末下午两点至六点。

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Tomato Soaked Bread, Ricotta and Marinated Eggplant 蕃茄面包配乳清干酪及腌茄子

Terrazza 庭园意大利餐厅

TERRAZZA’S WELCOMING OPEN KITCHEN, wine market feel, and warm Italian palette make for the kind of relaxed conviviality that’s perfect for reviving the tradition of the Sunday family gathering.

But it’s not easy to offer a family-oriented menu that appeals across the generations. Terrazza succeeds admirably with a selection that spans handmade pastas, stone oven pizzas, seafood platters and grilled meats. Starting in late May, al fresco dining on the patio and new Sunday lunch offerings will be available.

Terrazza’s menu always reflects the kind of simple southern Italian cuisine that emphasizes the very freshest ingredients and regionally authentic flavors. Some dishes are satisfyingly traditional, others show off the innovative approach of Chef de Cuisine Gleb Snegin. All convey the fundamental essences of their origin.

“You may only have two or three ingredients in a dish, but to combine them well is no simple task,” says Chef Snegin. “Sometimes simplicity is the most difficult thing to achieve.” 庭园意大利餐厅「Terrazza」的开放式厨房、种类丰富的酒单和温暖的意大利料理， 营造出随兴欢乐的气氛，是延续周日家庭聚会传统的最佳去处。 想要一次讨好不同年龄家族成员的口味和喜好并非易事。Terrazza 成功推出一系列餐 点，包括家常口味通心面、窑烤披萨，海鲜拼盘和炙烧烤肉。Terrazza 更将于五月下旬户

Terrazza 擅长展现南意大利料理，着重食材的新鲜和富含地方特色的纯正风味。有些 Tagliolini with Maine Lobster, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil 龙虾意式细面

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料理忠于传统、口味道地，有些则是主厨 Gleb Snegin 的创意菜色，但都能精彩传达南意 料理的理念和精华。 「一道菜中或许只有两三样食材，但要让它们的口味完美融合在一 主厨 Snegin 表示 ： 起，可不是个简单的任务。有时单纯的美味反而是最难达成的。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

外推出全新周日午餐。

presented by galaxy macau

The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge 麦卡伦威士忌吧

DEEP LEATHER ARMCHAIRS, wood paneled walls, rich Oriental rugs, and a broad cozy fireplace as focal point give The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge that comfortably luxurious feel of a classic Scottish club. The ambiance, especially on a casual Sunday evening, is one of warm understated elegance that lends itself perfectly to quiet conversation with friends.

With over 400 whisky labels to choose from, it is also Macau’s premium bar for exploring the vast and intriguing world of whisky. The Macallan Expressions Through Time, the bestselling whisky flight of half-ounce pours from The Macallan 12 through 25 Year Old, gives drinkers a rare opportunity to appreciate how one legendary whisky matures through the aging process. And the Create Your Own Whisky Flight lets guests sample across different labels by selecting five from a menu of thirty. The list is regularly refreshed to include unique labels from around the world.

For novices or connoisseurs, The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge is a perfect place to swirl, inhale, and savor every sip. 麦卡伦威士忌酒吧以深色真皮沙发、特色木墙、东方风情地毯和宽阔温暖的壁炉装潢，带来 豪华舒适的气氛，让人彷如置身英伦高级俱乐部中。特别是在轻松愉悦的星期天傍晚，酒吧温暖、 低调、优雅的氛围，让宾客能抛开拘束，和好友畅所欲言。 麦卡伦威士忌酒吧拥有超过四百种不同口味的威士忌，成为澳门引领顾客探索威士忌奥妙的 Macallan Old Fashioned 麦卡伦经典

高级酒吧。 「麦卡伦穿越时空」 ，是店内销售最好的威士忌体验之旅，啜饮半盎司来自麦卡伦陈年

12 到 25 年间的威士忌，藉此难得机会品尝传奇威士忌的熟成。另外「自选威士忌之旅」，精心挑 选 30 款来自世界各地的独特威士忌供客人细尝，酒吧更会定期更换酒单，顾客可从中挑选 5 款， 搭配专属自己的品味之旅。 不论是喜爱威士忌的新手或是行家，麦卡伦威士忌吧都是品味、沉醉，并深陷威士忌魅力的 最佳场所。

Create Your Own Whisky Flight 自选威士忌之旅

presented by mandarin oriental, macau

极致梦幻午茶

tea and fantasy

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The most enticing weekend rite in Macau takes place every Saturday and Sunday afternoon at Mandarin Oriental’s spectacular Vida Rica Bar.

DOMINIQUE BUGNAND, Director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage of Mandarin Oriental, Macau, is playing with fire. Well, not exactly fire – he’s playing with smoke, ensuring that just the right amount mysteriously encircles his whimsical mandarin sorbet lollipop. “I was inspired by Alice in Wonderland,” he remarks, carefully adjusting the vibrant orange orb in its glass dish. “You know the Mad Hatter’s tea party?

I just thought it was time to offer our guests something different from the classic noisyhotel-lobby tea they can find everywhere.

I said to Sebastien Bernis, our Executive Pastry Chef, ‘Let’s make a tea, but not a tea.’

He looked at me as if I was crazy, and then we let our imaginations go wild.”

Bugnand’s fanciful sorbet, just the starter of a very ingenious menu, is a “welcome refresher” conjured from the signature fruit of the Mandarin Oriental,Macau. “We’ve named this tea party Afternoon FANtasy in honor of the hotel’s logo of a Chinese fan.”

Despite the tea’s playful aspects, the work that goes into creating the delicacies that guests enjoy is serious business, and Bugnand maintains his strict culinary principles. “Most important for me is that everything is really fresh,” he says.

“We have two chefs at live stations and we make the sandwiches à la minute. The

澳门文华东方酒店的「御苑酒廊 (Vida Rica Bar)」每逢周末都会高朋满座，全因这儿 有堪称着全澳门最梦幻诱人的美味午茶。 酒店厨艺餐饮总监贝铭乐 (Dominique Bugnand) 正在玩火 ：严格说来并不是火，而 是烟。他精准控制乾冰，让充满创意的柑 橘雪葩一旁漫起烟雾，营造神秘氛围。总 监表示灵感来自「爱丽丝梦游仙境」，解说 同时调整玻璃盘上色彩鲜艳的柑橘雪葩球。 他接着问 ： 「听过『疯狂帽客』的午茶派对 吗？闹哄哄的酒店大厅传统午茶到处都有， 我想是时候给客人来点不一样的了。我找 了饼房行政总厨鲍思培 (Sebastien Bernis)， 提议做『像茶点又非茶点』的东西。当时 他看着我的眼神，好像觉得我疯了一般， 但接下来我们都玩开了，让创意发光发热。」 贝铭乐特制雪葩，华贵动人，作为美 妙午茶的迎宾小食再适合不过。这道清爽 糕点发想自澳门文华东方的英文名，因为 「Mandarin」即柑橘之意。如此美味的飨宴 当然也要有与之匹配的名称，因此以「梦 幻 午 茶 之 约 (Afternoon FANtasy)」 为 名， 向文华东方的标志「中国扇 (FAN)」致敬。 茶点玩心满满，但为客人制作美馔可 不能有一点儿戏，贝铭乐谨守个人烹饪哲 学，一点都不马虎。他强调： 「一切都要新鲜， 没有任何例外。料理站有两位厨师，三文 治现点现做，现场制作的美味吃了会上瘾。」 多样与众不同的风味面包也成为总监 展现创意的媒材，他说 ： 「面包不仅可装载 味道，更能让美味锦上添花。」贝铭乐拿出

Mandarin Sorbet Lollipop 柑橘雪葩球

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by Bugnand and fashioned from gleaming metal and warm seasoned wood. But just as in Wonderland, things are not always what they seem. A “sausage roll” turns out to be puff pastry wrapped around a light chicken mousse flavored with fragrant black truffle.

A jelly made with fine rosé Champagne is decorated with “caviar” crafted from fresh red berries.

Amidst the marble, crystal, and chrome of the room’s sophisticated design, Bugnand chooses to combine the gentility of a tea with a perverse touch of rustic fun. “I was raised on a farm,” he says, “and I’ve created many of the items to be eaten with the hands. Cutlery interferes with the experience. When you eat with your hands, you savor the textures and flavors directly.”

Bugnand pairs his offerings with a choice of fresh teas sourced from mainland China. “I think it’s important to use authentic regional products,” he says. And if your cup of tea is something else altogether, Bugnand has created three spectacular Valrhona chocolate drinks with increasingly daring

levels of cacao. “I can’t bear it when people make hot chocolate with cocoa powder,” he says. “I simply melt about twenty-five chocolate coins in warm milk. I don’t add sugar or anything else. It is pure liquid chocolate – delicious!”

The basic menu comprises a generous selection of savories, sweet pastries, warm scones, and hot beverages. And at just MOP438 for two (plus 10% service charge), guests can afford to add extras – including Champagne and out-of-the-ordinary cocktails – to make the experience even more sumptuous.

“We also have a live mille-feuille station,” says Bugnand, “where our chef assembles layer after layer of crisp pastry and light fruit cream right before your eyes.

And we’re more than happy to make individual changes to the menu. Some people have a sweet tooth and want all pastries; others may prefer to stick to savories. But whatever they choose, I know all our guests are here to experience one thing – the irresistible magic of our new Afternoon FANtasy.”

COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL (2)

difference with a freshly made sandwich is enormous.”

Bugnand’s innovations extend to exotically flavored breads. “I believe that bread is not only a vehicle for flavors, but can also enhance them.” He presents a charcoalcolored slice piled with succulent wagyu beef and topped with an earthy cep mushroom. “I’ve made this bread with squid ink, which delivers saltiness and a faint marine flavor to amplify the taste of the beef.” Strips of luxurious Tasmanian salmon recline on a bed of bread colored purple with beetroot and dotted with poppy seeds. Smoked caviar and saffron aioli finish the dish and perfectly set off the fish. Rosy tomato bread envelopes twenty-four-month aged Ibérico ham and tangy Portuguese cheese to create a very adult grilled cheese sandwich.

Everything at the Afternoon FANtasy is presented against the Vida Rica Bar’s sensational backdrop of the Macau waterfront viewed through double-height windows.

Items on the tea menu are dramatically displayed on three-tiered stands designed

presented by mandarin oriental, macau

一片焦炭色面包，叠上鲜嫩多汁的和牛， 洒些草菇增添土壤气息便大功告成。「面包 用墨鱼汁做成，特有咸味及些许海洋鲜味 让牛肉美味提升至新的境界。」甜菜根做成 的紫色面包缀着罂粟籽，其上横倚着塔斯 马尼亚鲑鱼条，搭配烟醺鱼子酱佐番红花 蒜粒酱，可凸显鲑鱼条细致的口感。鲜红 色泽的蕃茄面包裹着 24 个月熟成伊比利火 腿及呛鼻的葡萄牙起司，就是成人风味的 烧烤起司三文治。 参加「梦幻午茶之约」的贵客也能欣 赏梦幻景致，透过「御苑酒廊」双层挑高 落地窗，澳门湖滨风景一览无遗。午茶三 层架由贝铭乐亲自设计，使用金属及暖色 系风化木块，风格别致，效果极佳。不过 既然来了「仙境」，很多东西可不能只看表

相：所谓的「香肠卷」原来是以黑松露调味、 轻裹鸡肉慕斯的酥皮塔 ；果冻则以特级玫 瑰香槟调制，点缀新鲜红莓精凋而成的「鱼 子酱」。 搭配酒廊结合大理石、水晶及铬石贵 金属的华丽设计主轴，总监决定在午茶的 高贵气质中，注入豪放不羁的乡野情趣。 他解释 ： 「我在农场长大，也设计了很多用 手拿着吃的餐点。餐具有时是种阻隔，手 拿着吃才能直接感受食物的质感及味道。」 贝铭乐也精选中国多种直送鲜茶，作 为点心的最佳拍挡，他强调 ： 「使用原汁原 味的地方产品也是关键所在。」若锺爱的饮 品并非茗茶，总监还准备了三种不同可可 浓度的法国法芙娜朱古力。「用可可粉泡热 朱古力总让我看不下去。我的作法很简单，

25 个朱古力圆块放进温牛奶化开，不加糖 或任何其他东西，百分之百纯热朱古力 – 好喝的不得了！」 午茶菜单一字排开，各种美馔、鲜甜 糕点、温热司康及热饮，应有尽有。两人 成行只要澳门币 438 元（另加 10% 服务费）， 若想让体验升级更加豪华，也能加价享用 香槟及特制创意鸡尾酒。 现场还有法式千层酥现点区，贝铭乐 自豪表示 ： 「糕点师傅就在客人眼前制作， 酥脆饼皮及薄薄的水果奶油层层交叠，让 人食指大动。我们也可配合个人需求，调 整菜单内容。有人特爱甜食，所有糕点都 不放过 ；有人只想专攻咸食。但不管他们 喜好如何，到御苑来都只有一个目的 – 体 验梦幻午茶之约凡人无法挡的美味。」

presented by hofex

肉味无穷

the meat of the matter ON ANY GIVEN DAY in Hong Kong’s gourmet supermarkets, prime cuts of the highest quality meat are flying off the shelves. Restaurant customers are ordering wagyu and Kobe beef in droves. So it comes as no surprise that even with this year’s forecast of a 1.4 percent decline in total world beef production from 2014, Hong Kong’s import of beef is predicted to rise a staggering 15.4 percent.

HOFEX 2015, in one of the biggest events in the show’s twenty-eight year history, is set to recognize Hong Kong’s and Asia’s growing demand by launching a new hall dedicated entirely to meat. HOFEX draws more than 40,000 regional buyers and 2,400 international exhibitors across the entire F&B sector, and Meat@HOFEX is expected to garner plenty of attention as the first prime meat tradeshow in Asia.

Prime cuts of meat will always be a sure seller, and value-added processes increase their appeal. “Dry-aged beef has become very popular,” says Marc Chau, Meat Buyer at city’super. “But we found that the product from other retailers isn’t well controlled in terms of processing. We saw the potential to dry-age beef properly in our customized onsite aging cabinets.”

Launched with marketing events in April of 2014, city’super’s dry-aged beef has been

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无论平日或假日，香港美食超市中的优质 高级肉类总是甫上架就被抢购一空，餐厅 的和牛与神户牛料理也往往是十分热门的 选项。因此，产业人士对即使今年全球牛 肉产量比 2014 年预计减少 1.4%，香港预 计的牛肉进口量仍提升 15.4% 的情况，并 不感到讶异。 坐拥 28 年历史，HOFEX 国际餐饮及 酒店设备商贸展览会即将迈入第 16 届，为 响应香港与亚洲区内各国日益增加成长的 肉类需求，本次展览特地新设亚洲首个高 级肉类专区 – Meat@HOFEX，预计吸引全 球超过 40,000 位买家，以及 2,400 家国际 餐饮业厂商，势将成为众所瞩目的焦点。 高级肉类是超市销售榜上的常胜军， 经过处理的熟成肉类更令饕客趋之若鹜。 香港顶级超市 city’super 肉品部采购专员 Marc Chau 表示 ： 「过去几年，干式熟成牛 肉在香港很受欢迎，但是我们发现，其他 零售商贩卖的干式熟成牛肉，无论是加工 处理过程或是肉类质量管理都并不稳定。 因此我们想到若能在超市内设立特制的熟 成冷柜，应该颇有商业发展潜力。」于是在 2014 年 4 月，city’super 超市便推出干式熟 成牛肉冷冻柜，搭配试吃与营销活动，结 果大受好评。虽然熟成肉类价格不斐，但 其卓越的质量让顾客颇感物超所值。 另一边厢，肉类采购员买家与厨师，甚 至包含消费者在内，并不欲盲目购买高级质 肉类，而是想希望更进一步了解肉类的产地、 生长方式和具体的喂养方式。顶级肉类供销

DAVID HARTUNG

HOFEX, Asia-Pacifíc’s prestigious food and hospitality tradeshow, returns to Hong Kong this May and launches its newest hall, Meat@HOFEX.

32oz Wagyu prime beef rib by Fish and Meat Fish & Meat 餐厅 32 盎司碳烤神户牛肋排

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It took city’super six months of research and testing of their on-premise Maturmeat aging cabinets to customize the optimal specifications of temperature, moisture levels and pH values to produce their dry-aged beef.

embraced by customers as well worth the premium price.

But buyers, chefs, and consumers are not willing to simply buy prime meat blindly.

Questions are being asked about where it comes from and how the animals were raised. “Sustainability and traceability are the latest concerns,” says Romeo Alfonso, General Manager at Sutherland Gastronomy, the luxury meat purveyor. “It’s more common for chefs and buyers to ask for specific farms so they can list them and market the quality of the meat to the customers.”

Such personal knowledge of meat can be difficult to acquire, especially in HK where buyers cannot simply visit the farms. Meat@ HOFEX addresses this by hosting national pavilions, bringing more than eighty meat suppliers from the US, Scotland, Japan, Spain, UK, Wales, Denmark, Hungary, and Poland to introduce their products and tell their origin stories. There is also a special

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emphasis on educational events, with local and overseas industry experts sharing insights on topics like sustainable and organic farming, chefs’ and retailers’ selection of meat, and culinary criteria for various cuts.

There are also strong signs that the market for secondary cuts is broadening. Head Chef Russell Doctrove of Fish & Meat points out a special slow-braised lamb shoulder that has been selling out every week. “Chefs have to be more creative with these meats,” he says, “and they take longer to prep.” Handling secondary cuts may require in-house butchery skills that many restaurants simply don’t have.

In response to reports of such declining skills, the renowned Hong Kong International Culinary Classic has introduced their first Butchery Skills Challenge to spark renewed interest in the lost art. The fourhour competition requires contestants to cut and present for sale whole birds, beef chuck

Russell Doctrove Head Chef at Fish & Meat Fish & Meat 餐厅总厨

primal cuts, lamb half carcasses, and pork hindquarters. The competition area allows the audience to see the work up close and gain exposure to special skills, cuts, and merchandising techniques.

Running May 6–9 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Meat@ HOFEX offers a dedicated platform for the meat industry to share and discuss needs and solutions as well as to gain insights into market trends taking shape around the world. “HOFEX has always had meat vendors and processors participating,” says Marc Chau. “But with Meat@HOFEX this year, I’m looking forward not only to traditional business opportunities, but also to the whole range of educational presentations they’ll be offering.”

Special thanks to city’super, Fish & Meat, and Sutherland Gastronomy for sharing their market knowledge.

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

city’super 为了规划超市内的熟成冷柜，花费六个 月的时间进行肉品的考察与试吃工作，以找出存放 干式熟成牛肉的最佳温度、湿度与ph值。

Marc Chau Meat Buyer at city’super

General Manager at Sutherland Gastronomy

city’super 肉品部采购专员

肉类供应商 Sutherland Gastronomy 总经理

应 商 Sutherland Gastronomy 总 经 理 Romeo Alfonso 表示 ： 「顾客日益关注肉类出产地的 可持续性及可追溯性。厨师与相关业者采购 指定农场或品牌出产肉类的情况愈来愈普 遍，以便他们在菜单上详细列出，增加顾客 对肉类质素的信心及消费。 」 买家要培养如此渊博专精的肉类知识， 可非易事，对于香港等无法直接探访肉品 来源农场的地区而言，难度更高。因此， Meat@HOFEX 高级肉类展特别安排来自美 国、苏格兰、日本、西班牙、英国、韦尔斯、 丹麦、匈牙利、波兰等地的 80 多个肉类供 应商亲临现场，展示商品并分享他们的品牌 故事。Meat@HOFEX 高级肉类展还精心策 划许多活动及研讨会，邀请香港与各国的业 界专家到场分享宝贵的经验和知识，主题十 分丰富，包含可持续性、有机农业、主厨与 经销商的选肉标准与技巧，以及各肉类部位 的屠宰知识等。 此外，顾客的品味及要求日渐提高，餐 厅面对激烈的竞争，必须推出特别的菜色吸 引顾客，因此他们开始采用非主流的肉类部

Romeo Alfonso

位 (Secondary Cuts) 来制作独特的菜色，市场 对此的需求也越来越大。Fish & Meat 餐厅总 厨 Russell Doctrove 表示，一款需要慢火炖煮 的羊肩肉特色料理大受欢迎，每周都会售罄。 他同时指出，非主流肉类部位并不容易处理： 「厨师要以创意来料理这些部位，而且事前准 备的时间也较长。 」处理这些肉类的人需要熟 悉屠宰技术，但大部分餐厅尚缺这类人材。 曾有媒体报导屠宰技术日渐式微，有鉴 于此，HOFEX 特地在全球知名的香港国际 美食大奖新设首届「屠宰技术挑战赛」 ，以 重新启发各界对此日渐渐失传手艺的兴趣。 屠宰技术挑战赛长达四小时，挑战内容包括 全鸡、牛肩胛、半羊、猪后腿肉的指定切割。 参展观众不仅可近距离观看精彩比赛，更能 一窥参赛者精湛卓越的技艺、刀功与提升肉 类采购的技巧知识。 HOFEX 国际餐饮及酒店设备商贸展将 于 2015 年 5 月 6 日至 9 日于香港会议展览 中心盛大举行 , 其中 Meat@HOFEX 高级肉 类展为业界提供专属平台 , 让业界人仕彼此 切磋交流 , 把握国际肉品市场的最新发展趋

势。Marc Chau 表示他与许多肉类供货商都 会到访每届 HOFEX :「今届新增的 Meat@ HOFEX 高级肉类展 , 令我更期待除了可作 传统商业交流之外，还可到各式各样的比赛 和教育研讨会现场一开眼界。 」

特别鸣谢 city’super，Fish&Meat和 Sutherland Gastronomy分享他们对市场的见解。

HOFEX 2015 • Asia’s Leading Food & Hospitality Tradeshow 6-9 May 2015, Hong Kong Buyer’s Registration at www.hofex.com • 亚洲最顶尖的国际餐饮 及酒店设备商贸展览会 2015 年 5 月 6 至 9 日 香港會議展覽中心 买家预先登记：www.hofex.com

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托斯卡尼传奇

This April, chef Pino Lavarra takes diners at Tosca on a quest through one of Italy’s most wondrous regions to discover its exceptional food and extraordinary wines.

“TUSCANY IS THAT BLESSED and magical

“Back in October we started with the place where you can visit seven World Heritfood, then we discussed how the ingrediage Sites in a single day,” says Paolo Fassina, ents can pair,” explains Chef Pino, who Banfi’s Regional Manager North East Asia. celebrates his second anniversary at Tosca “Bad things simply cannot come from such in April. He grew up in Puglia and worked on the Amalfi coast for fifteen years before a beautiful place.” Even though he’s from joining Tosca, but for him, too, Tuscany is a Milan, Fassina just can’t help singing Tusvery special place. cany’s many virtues, including its leading winery, Castello Banfi, the twelfth-century “Unlike some regions that require confortress ranked by Forbes as the number one siderable research, Tuscany’s food is very accessible, everyone is familiar with the wine tourism destination in the world.

During April, the foods and ingredients and the names,” says BY wines of Tuscany are lighting up Chef Pino. “The region has so JANE RAM Saturday lunches at Tosca, the many recipes that it’s just a quesMichelin-starred Italian restaution of choosing – there’s no need PHOTOGRAPHY BY rant at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong to invent anything. But presenDAVID HARTUNG Kong. It’s all part of a ten-month tation is the key to highlighting celebration focusing on a differeach ingredient rather than ent region each month. Diners are invited to merely complementing it. It’s not like grilling a steak and just putting it on a plate.” All take part in a leisurely – but highly sophisthe dishes on the menu are regarded as traticated – exploration of seasonal produce ditional Tuscan masterpieces, but each has paired with wines that have been expertly been executed in an innovative way. chosen.

Pino Lavarra, Director of Tosca, is a “Food is a good start, but the journey Michelin-starred chef and the key planner is never complete without wine,” Chef for the restaurant’s gourmet journey. The Pino says. “I like to drink it, but I’m not concept, he says, pays homage to the Giro an expert.” He defers in this area to the d’Italia, or Tour of Italy, the nation’s premier experience and skills of Fassina and Assiscycling race. Its route crams about 3,500 km tant Manager and Sommelier Sandro into three weeks in May, but serious diners in Brusco. Though Brusco is from Calabria, Hong Kong have between now and the end his favorite wines come from a well-known of the year to complete Tosca’s culinary tour. region somewhat farther north.

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Pici pasta, finocchiona, pecorino cheese and crispy pepper 手造意大利粉配意大利豬肉腸， 羊奶芝士，炸紅椒

“This fresh handmade spaghetti is about 4mm in diameter,” says Chef Pino. “The sauce has help from one of my favorite sausages, Finocchiona, which is made from black pig and uses aromatic fennel seeds and other spices – it is very Tuscan! I infuse it in olive oil to make the most of the flavor before dressing the pasta and finishing with fried, dried sweet peppers for color. The feeling of spring is captured in Centine Rosso, made from Sangiovese grapes blended with other international varieties.

This wine makes for an elegant, gentle progression after the white. It is very approachable, not too heavy, fresh and fruity with a hint of small berries and cherry notes.” 「这道料理的 Pino Lavarra 说 明 ： 意 大 利 面 皆 为 手 工 制 作， 宽 约 4 公 厘，酱料灵感则是来自于我最喜欢的

Finocchiona 腊 肠， 这 种 腊 肠 使 用 黑 毛猪肉，搭配茴香与其他香料制成， 是道地的托斯卡尼味！我先将腊肠泡 在橄榄油中，让食材风味发挥到极致， 再淋在意大利面上，最后以干炒甜椒 点缀，增添缤纷色彩。佐餐酒是洋溢 春 天 气 息 的 Centine Rosso， 采 用 珊 吉欧维榭（Sangiovese）品种与其他 国家品种的葡萄所酿成，饮用白酒后 再品尝这款酒，更能体会其优雅风味 与温和余韵，且十分容易入口，酒体 不会过于厚重，带有清新的果香味， 且微微散发莓果与樱桃的香气。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

banfi comes to tosca

Zucchini parmigiana, creamed chickpeas and fried anchovies 焗千层意大利黄瓜配鹰咀豆 , 脆炸鯷鱼

“Even in Alaska people are familiar with this classic method of baking vegetables with Parmesan cheese,” says Chef Pino. “It’s the season for zucchini, so I use them instead of the more familiar eggplant or Jerusalem artichoke. Anchovies add extra flavor and the accompanying creamed chickpeas with rosemary have almost the consistency of a thick, soft custard. The crispness of the Pinot Grigio San Angelo contrasts well with the sweetness of the vegetable.”

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「即使在阿拉斯加，以帕马森起司 Pino Lavarra 指出 ： 炖煮蔬菜的传统料理方式，也是家喻户晓。一般较常 用茄子或是耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟，但现在是栉瓜的盛产时 节，所以我改用栉瓜做料理，还加入鯷鱼，更添风味， 搭配鹰嘴豆泥与迷迭香，口感近似浓稠绵密的蛋黄酱。 佐餐酒选用清爽的 Pinot Grigio San Angelo，与蔬菜的 甜味形成对比。

presented by banfi

Sirloin of Chianina matured in EVO, tomato and bread terrine, and cannellini beans 顶级橄榄油浸煮西冷牛脊配蕃茄面包批伴意大利白豆

“When we talk of the best beef everyone thinks of wagyu because its high fat content makes it so tender,” says Chef Pino.

Chianina cattle are bred for work and the meat has very little fat, but we tenderize it very successfully with extra virgin olive oil. It is served with true Tuscan soul food, papa al pomodoro , which could be called tomato and bread soup, using saltless Tuscan bread, of course.”

Fassina adds, “Such a dish, especially with the strong tomato element, can take a really important wine. I must button my jacket to show respect for something this majestic – Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura is a medium-bodied fortified red that epitomizes Banfi’s winemaking philosophy at the highest level of authenticity. The weather and the soil are all there in the bottle.

This wine is made with Sangiovese selected at the estate over a period of thirty years and with the cooperation of the universities of Milan and Pisa. More than 600 different clones of the variety were narrowed down to fifteen. From these we selected three for our soil, replanting the vineyards that slope down from the castle, and after six years we succeeded in producing this iconic wine. It is a modern Tuscan legend that has become an essential element in the region’s food and wine experience.” 「一讲到顶级牛肉，大家马上会想到和牛，因 Pino Lavarra 表示 ： 为和牛含有极高的脂肪，肉质非常软嫩。 」而契安尼娜牛属于役用 牛，脂肪含量非常低，我们以特级初榨橄榄油浸泡，成功打造鲜 嫩肉质，佐以有托斯卡尼灵魂料理之称的 papa al pomodoro 蕃茄 面包汤，其中搭配的当然是当地的无盐面包。 「这种蕃茄味十分浓郁的料理，非 Paolo Fassina 补充说明 ： 常适合搭配一种珍贵的葡萄酒，提起这款酒我可得肃然起敬，那 就 是 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura， 是 酒 体 中 等 的 加烈红酒，完全体现邦菲酒庄追求极致真实的酿酒哲学，将当 地风土全都封入瓶中。这款酒所选用的葡萄品种 , 是由米兰大 学及比萨大学共同于一个拥有超过 30 年历史的庄园所种植的

Sangiovese 葡萄 ; 专家从研究出的 600 多个葡萄品种精选出 15 个 , 再从中挑选其中 3 个最适合当地土壤的葡萄品种 , 重新打造 一座葡萄园 , 从庄园的 城堡一路绵延过来 , 经过六年 , 终于成功 酿出这款顶级葡萄酒 , 可说是现代的托斯卡尼传奇 , 成为此地美 食美酒不可或缺的元素。 」 sunday rituals

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Cod livornese stew sauce with potato and pearl onions 浸煮鳕鱼，橄榄水瓜柳汁伴糖 醋渍蔬菜，小洋葱

“This codfish comes from the Tyrrhenian Sea off the shores of northern Tuscany. It is traditionally served baked whole, but my version is more sophisticated,” says Chef Pino. “The fish is boned before being cooked in a terra-cotta pot with baby Borettane onions – another spring specialty from this region – and olive oil, along with a little chopped garlic and rosemary as final touches. I stay with tradition in serving rustic crushed potato instead of mashed. The wine is a Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino, very light, but structured.” Sommelier Leo Lo, another of Tosca’s experts, gives his refined assessment: “It’s always love at first sip with this red. It has a very festive cranberry color and an aroma that hints of raspberry, strawberry, and rose petals. It tastes of fresh raspberries, with an enticing crisp acidity that starts soft and graduates to a clean, dry finish. It pairs well with seafood, but it’s perfect for just about any dish.” 「这种鳕鱼产自托斯卡尼北边的第勒尼安海，传统上是以烤全鱼方式 料理，但我的料理方式比较精致，料理前先将鱼去骨，加入当 地特产的珍珠洋葱，在陶锅中与橄榄油一起烹煮，最后加上 少许蒜末、迷迭香，再搭配马铃薯泥，颗粒较粗而非常 见的细泥，以保留传统风味。佐餐酒是 Castello Banfi

Rosso di Montalcino，酒体轻盈而层次丰富。 另一位 Tosca 餐厅的侍酒师 Leo Lo 品尝后 给予评价 ： 「这款红葡萄酒总让人一啜钟情， 具有华丽的红莓色，散发覆盆子、草莓与 玫瑰花瓣的香气，一入口便能感受到新 鲜覆盆子的滋味，余味清爽微酸，起 初较为温和，最后则以纯净淡雅的风 味作结，特别适合搭配海鲜，也可 以作为任何餐点的佐餐酒。 」

presented by banfi

Pino Lavarra and Sandro Brusco

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

意大利邦菲酒庄的东北亚区总监 Paolo Fassina 表示 ： 「托斯卡尼非常迷人，格外受上 帝眷顾，这里一切都显得优美无暇，你可 以一天遍览七处世界遗产。」他是意大利米 兰人，但忍不住对托斯卡尼的一切频频赞 美，也包含当地知名的邦菲酒庄，这座具 有过百年历史的庄园名列富比士杂志全球 最佳酒厂主题旅游景点的第一名。 今年四月，香港丽思卡尔顿酒店的星 级 Tosca 意大利餐厅，每逢周六便会献上 来自托斯卡尼的美馔佳酿，该餐厅将举办 连续十个月的主题飨宴，每个月皆以意大 利不同地区为焦点，邀请宾客在轻松融洽 的气氛中享用极致美味，品尝当令新鲜蔬 果以及经专家精挑细选的佳酿。 获米其林星星的 Tosca 餐厅总监 Pino Lavarra，是担任本次美食之旅的主要筹划 人，他表示，此次活动旨在向享誉国际的 环意自由车赛致敬，该项赛事于五月举行， 历时三周，全程约 3,500 公里。而自即日 起至今年年底，香港的行家饕客便能共襄 盛举，在 Tosca 的餐桌上完成这趟美食之旅。 Pino Lavarra 总监表示 ： 「我们从去年

From left to right: Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino DOC, FloruS Moscadello di Montalcino D.O.C, Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Pinot Grigio San Angelo and Centine Rosso

十月开始着手规划餐点，讨论食材的搭配 方 式。 」 今 年 四 月，Pino Lavarra 在 Tosca 餐厅便任满两年，他自小生长在意大利南 部的普利亚，到阿玛菲海岸工作了十五年， 接着便加入 Tosca 餐厅的团队，不过对他 来说，托斯卡尼仍是非常特别的地方。 他说 ： 「托斯卡尼确实与众不同，其他 地区的特色料理，准备起来往往得大费周 章，相较之下，托斯卡尼的美食显得平易 近人，食材与名称都为人所熟知，而且当 地有众多料理食谱，任君挑选，不必自己 费心发想，关键是在于料理的呈现方式， 如何才能让每样食材相得益彰，而不只是 凑数而已，这跟煎牛排不同，不是把煎好 的肉摆在盘上就收工。」Pino Lavarra 的团 队所设计的菜单，每道都是融合托斯卡尼 的传统经典与创新手法的美味料理。 Pino Lavarra 说 ： 「我们以美食作为漂 亮的开场，但这场旅程可少不了美酒，而 我虽然爱喝酒，但却称不上专家。」他将 选酒的重责大任交给邦菲酒庄的 Paolo Fassina 与侍酒师 Sandro Brusco。虽然 Sandro Brusco 来自卡拉布里，但他最钟爱的葡萄 酒却是来自北部知名的产酒区。

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malt masters

威士忌大师

a regal scott

DAVID HARTUNG

Master Blender Colin Scott recently met with Gerrie Lim in Hong Kong to talk about the art of blending and his search for inspiration.

COLIN SCOTT, MASTER BLENDER for the past 25 years of Chivas Regal, the premium label of one of Scotland’s most venerable distilleries, reduces his formula for success to surprisingly simple terms: “Scotch whisky is a 100 percent luxury even though it consists only of cereal, water and yeast. We distill it and then we mature it in oak casks. Its success comes down to passion.”

He should know, since he originated the passionately acclaimed Chivas 18-year-old, which was introduced first in Japan in 2007 before going international and is preferred over Chivas 25 by many critics.

Scott is also esteemed for relaunching the latter, which was originally released to global cheers in New York in 1909 and attained legendary status some years later when Frank Sinatra declared it his favorite.

“We had to literally recreate the 25-year-old,” Scott recalls. “We had no bottles of it and we didn’t even have the recipe. Due to a fire in Aberdeen, we had lost all the records. However, we did know a few things: there was a 25-year-old Glenlivet from 1909, and we had a 12- and an 18-year-old blended in that same tradition.”

Perhaps it was fate that a whisky from Glenlivet should play a crucial part: “I started

调酒大师 Colin Scott 调制 Chivas Regal 威 士忌已有 25 年岁月，它是苏格兰最知名酿 酒庄的顶级酒标。Scott 表示他成功的秘诀 其实非常简单 ： 「即便苏格兰威士忌的成分 只是谷物、水和酵母，它的奢华是无庸置 疑的。我们先蒸馏，再放到橡木桶中熟成。 它的成就其实归功于热情。」 他 对 威 士 忌 的 狂 热， 从 调 出 为 人 称 道的 Chivas 18 年时就开始了。这瓶酒在 2007 年引进日本，许多评酒师甚至认为它 比起 Chivas 25 更胜一筹。 Scott 也因重新调制起瓦士 25 年威士 忌而备受尊敬。这瓶酒最初在 1909 年从 纽约出口至全球，数年后因名歌手 Frank Sinatra 宣称 Chivas 25 年是他的最爱，因而 获得传奇般的地位。 Scott 说道 ： 「那时 我 们要把这瓶 25 年的威士忌『重新创造』出 来，因为我们没有它的配方，甚至连个空 瓶子都没有。所有纪录在亚伯丁的一场大 火中付之一炬，但是我们的确知道几件事 ： 有一支产于 1909 年的 25 年 Glenlivet，我 们也有它以同样方式调制而成的 12 年和 18 年的翻版。」 也许命中注定 Glenlivet 威士忌是个举 足轻重的角色。「我从 Glenlivet 起步，那 家公司的名字就叫 Glenlivet Distillers，本 来 应 该 叫 做 Chivas Brother， 但 Glenlivet 后来成了我们的大功臣。我一开始只是培 训部经理而不是调酒师，然后转任品管经

“ When blending, you’re like a conductor who can change the number of musicians, but at the end of the day when you play the tune, it’s always the same.“

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with Glenlivet. The company was called Glenlivet Distillers then, but, in reality, it was Chivas Brothers because Glenlivet eventually became part of our portfolio. At first, I was not a blender, but a trainee manager.

Then a quality manager. I’d completed my training in production. I didn’t join Chivas to become a Master Blender.”

Yet the lure of creating whisky was too strong, thanks in part to Scott’s family heritage. “I grew up steeped in the wisdom of whisky. My father was in the business, and my grandfather was chairman of one of the grain distilleries in Glasgow. So I decided I would join Chivas Brothers in Edinburgh.”

Chivas Regal, Scott believes, has achieved such a distinctive place in whisky lore because it’s “smooth and rich with excellent balance and flavor.” He explains: “It’s actually a family of flavors. The thread runs through the 12-year-old to the 18 to the 25. You can enjoy different taste experiences with each while still indulging in that fabled easy-drinking house style of Chivas Regal. The number

of whiskies blended will vary slightly every year. When blending, you’re like a conductor who can change the number of musicians, but at the end of the day when you play the tune, it’s always the same. We bring different malt whiskies in and change or remove some. We readjust the percentages. Then we bring the blend back to balance, back to tasting like our cherished Chivas.

“That’s the real art of blending. You can sniff it on the nose and detect fruits and florals and nuts and sweetness. With some other whiskies, the experience is all a straight line. Sipping a Chivas is akin to hearing a fine orchestra. From nose to taste to finish – and I think this is really the best way to describe it – the blend is always in harmony.”

While winemakers work with a new vintage each year, whisky blending is a very different craft. “We have a new vintage every day!” says Scott. “You don’t have to worry about the weather because barley is grown by farmers, and then it goes to the commercial

malt distillers who move the barley to our quality specifications. The water usually comes from underground. It’s natural well and spring water that offers much character, bubbling up between five and eight degrees Centigrade all around – beautiful and fresh, rich in minerals and perfect for making our whisky.”

Scott confesses that he does occasionally enjoy single malts. “Scapa I love, and it’s now become part of our portfolio. We call it ‘The Orcadian’ because I was born in Orkney. I’m Orcadian, Scottish, British, in that order.” He strongly urges single-malt drinkers not to restrict themselves: “I just think they have to open their minds and try a few blends,” he says. “In fact, the best way is to drink some blind. This can be frustrating, but you’ll be surprised by the fascinating results. You’ll also learn that the most expensive is not always the best. Best is a case of personal taste. The best whisky in the world – regardless of age or price – the best whisky is the one you like.”

理，一直到后来才完成调酒训练，所以我 并不是以调酒大师的身分加入 Chivas 的。」 调制威士忌对 Scott 来说是种无法抵挡 的诱惑，这可归功因于家族事业的传承使 然。「从小我就对威士忌了若指掌 ：我的 父亲从事酿酒业，我的爷爷是格拉斯哥一 座酒庄的负责人，因此我决定加入爱丁堡 的 Chivas Brothers。」 Scott 相信 Chivas Regal 滑顺饱满的口 感，恰到好处的风味，在威士忌界已获得 无可取代的地位。他解释 ： 「它们的风味可 说是血脉相传。这一系列从 12 年、18 年 到 25 年都有。因此你可以在体验不同风味 的同时，享受这一系列酒顺口香醇的特有 风格。每年调制时加入的威士忌数量都有 些微不同。在调酒时，你就像一个指挥家 ： 随时可以改变乐手的数量，但最后当你演

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奏这首乐曲时，听起来还是一样美好。我 们会在配方中加入不同种类的威士忌，也 会拿掉一些 ；我们也会重新调整各种酒的 比例，让它们再次达成平衡，尝起来一如 我们所珍爱的 Chivas。 」 「这就是调酒的艺术，只要轻轻一闻， 就能闻到鲜花、水果和坚果的香味和甜味。 和其他威士忌混合在一起时，整个感觉就 像一条直线般连贯不断。品尝一口 Chivas 就如聆听一首美好的交响乐。调酒总是带 给人和谐的感觉，以交响乐来当譬喻是最 好不过的了。」 酿酒师每年都会接触到一种全新的酒 类，而调制威士忌则是种非常不一样的体 验。 Scott 说明 ： 「我们每天都会有一种新 的酒！ 你不用担心天气好不好，因为种植 大麦是农夫们的事，接着酿酒庄会处理那

些大麦，使它们达到应有的品质。他们用 的是地下水，那些约摄氏五度到八度的自 流井水和泉水非常纯净、清新，而且富含 矿物质，是酿造威士忌的完美选择。」 Scott 坦承他有时候也喜欢喝单一麦芽 威士忌。「我爱史加伯，它现在也成为我 们的最爱之一。我们说它来自奥克尼，因 为我是在奥克尼出生的。照顺序来说，我 是英国苏格兰的奥克尼人。 」Scott 也强烈 建议喜爱单一麦芽威士忌的人不要局限自 己： 「我认为人们应该多尝试不同的调酒。 事实上，最好的方法是盲品酒。你可能觉 得这样没有意义，但那些不可思议的效果 绝对会让你惊奇，更能令你了解最昂贵的 不一定是最好的。『最好』的定义完全因人 而异 ：不用理会年份或价钱，你最喜欢的 威士忌就是世界上最好的威士忌。」

DAVID HARTUNG

〝“ 在调酒时，你就像一个指挥家 ：随时可以改变乐手的数量， 但最后当你演奏这首乐曲时，听起来还是一样美好。”

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presented by johnnie walker

加泰隆尼亚闲静风情

catalonian calm Evening’s end is just the time for the tired team at Catalunya to reflect on their favorite corner of Spain with a glass of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

CATALUNYA IS A DESTINATION restaurant that people are prepared to travel to. Its location in a corner of Wan Chai may be unlikely, but once inside the visitor is transported from China to somewhere altogether more Iberian – more Catalonian.

The look and feel is effortless cool, by way of New York design firm AvroKO. As is often the case in Spanish restaurants, the bar is what first catches the eye, lined with a casually hip crowd who seem to know when they’ve found a good drink. The dining room is lush and moody, walls slathered in deep vermilion and offset by dark woods, motifs of metal, and a spectacular pendulous chandelier.

After the guests are gone, the team begins to wind down at the end of an energized evening, and it’s clear that they mirror what the restaurant conveys – proud Spanish bloodlines with a cosmopolitan edge. Chef Josep “Pep” Casas is Catalonian, Assistant Manager Mauricio Rodriguez is Mexican, and Sommelier Marie-Paule Herman is Dutch, but brings Spanish vibes from a year at elBulli. Fion Kwok, in charge of events, is from HK. sunday rituals

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They toast another successful night, clinking glasses over a spread of Catalonian olives and the restaurant’s famous bikini sandwiches of truffle, Ibérico ham, and mozzarella. The tranquillity brings out reminiscences of the special place that gives the restaurant its name and its spirit.

PEP: To me the spirit of Catalonia is in the mountains and the sea as much as in the cuisine or even our passion for living.

Oh, and we have Ferran Adrià – one of the world’s most famous chefs!

MAURICIO: Don’t forget our independence – Catalonia has some issues with Madrid and wants to strike out on its own.

I say it gives us some authenticity. But the real passion in Catalonia is football! Let’s see – three out of four of us are for Barcelona – Pep is the odd man out.

PEP: OK, OK, I just think it’s great we

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“ My great mission was to combine the best food in the world with the Asian hospitality I heard about.“ MAURICIO RODRIGUEZ

can all be at Catalunya and show off our food and Spanish charm to our patrons in Asia.

It’s also a pleasure to work with the locals – they’re all professional and want to learn about my crazy Spanish dishes.

MAURICIO: My great mission was to combine the best food in the world with the Asian hospitality I heard about. Given that three of us here worked with Adrià or at elBulli, we all had such high expectations, and I’m happy that we are delivering on it and can see people learn more about Spanish culture, Catalonian culture.

MARIE-PAULE: I appreciate how we’re like a family – I’m a long way from home!

Mauricio and I worked together at elBulli, we were housemates and we’re almost like brother and sister – but sometimes we do party like crazy. One challenge is the language – I’m trying so hard to learn Chinese.

presented by johnnie walker

座落于香港湾仔的「Catalunya」 ，像餐厅也 像景点，是饕客出游的目的地。一进餐厅， 满是伊比利半岛、加泰隆尼亚的特殊风情。 「Catalunya」装潢由纽约设计公司 AvroKO 一手打造，充满时髦氛围。就像多数 西班牙餐厅一样， 「Catalunya」吧台也是最 先吸引目光的所在，一旁有不少打扮入时的 客人随性排着，想找好喝的调酒跟着他们就 对了。用餐空间走丰富深沉路线，墙面覆以 朱红色调，再缀以深色原木、金属基调，以 及偌大的吊灯。 待最后一组客人离开，忙碌的一夜过后， 「Catalunya」团队终于能喘口气。每个成员 都是餐厅精神的最佳代表 , 以西班牙血统为 傲，融合国际特色。主厨 Josep “Pep” Casas 是加泰隆尼亚人，副经理 Mauricio Rodriguez 是墨西哥出身，侍酒师 Marie-Paule Herman 来自荷兰，但曾于加泰隆尼亚知名餐厅「elBulli」工作一年，西班牙风格掌控自如 ；而 活动筹办的负责人 Fion Kwok 是香港人。

“ 我在此的一大任 务就是将世界最 棒的食材及亚洲 特有的好客风格 相互融合。“ MAURICIO RODRIGUEZ

他们相互敬酒，酒杯撞击响起清脆声响， 搭配加泰隆尼亚橄榄、餐厅招牌松露、伊比 利火腿及莫兹瑞拉起司「比基尼」三文治， 庆祝又一个宾主尽欢的夜晚。此刻闲静让过 往涌上心头，众人细数代表餐厅名称及精神 的特殊地方 ：加泰隆尼亚象征的特殊意义。 PEP: 加泰隆尼亚精神就在好山好水， 或地方菜肴、甚或从对生活的热情中表露无 遗。当然还有全球最有名的大厨之一，Ferran Adrià 也在这！ MAURICIO: 别忘了加泰隆尼亚独立议 题，我们和马德里某些方面处不来，想要自 立争取空间，也是因此我们自主性较强。但 说到热情所在，那绝对是足球！我们四个人 之中，三个支持巴塞隆纳，只有 Pep 不同， 他比较奇怪。 PEP: 大家都能在「Catalunya」工作，为 亚洲饕客展现西班牙美食及魅力所在真的很 幸运，也很荣幸和在地伙伴合作－大家都很专 业， 对我疯狂的西班牙菜展现极大的学习热诚。 sunday rituals

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But I think the definition of success is the same here – guests thanking us, sending those emails, saying they liked the food and atmosphere, customers becoming regulars.

MAURICIO: Things aren’t always so smooth. Remember the roast Segovia suckling pig? You know how we break up the meat by smashing it with a plate? One night the bowl broke and a piece flew off and smashed a window in the cellar. I just had to go on like nothing happened.

PEP: That was nerve-racking! But I’m glad we’ve kept one of those old Spanish customs – the digestif. Dinners last even longer back home, but there is always time at the end just to linger and savor something really good. I like that we’re able to do that here.

MAURICIO: Yes, and with Blue Label, it’s never been easier to drink. The smoothness

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“ I’m glad we’ve kept one of those old Spanish customs – the digestif. Dinners last even longer back home, but there is always time at the end to linger and savor something really good.“ CHEF JOSEP “PEP” CASAS

and balance are something you only get with aging. Do you like it straight up too? Beautiful whisky doesn’t need ice or water.

FION: What would you pair it with on our menu?

MAURICIO: Our new pastry chef – I think her hazelnut cake would go perfectly with something as smooth as Blue Label.

And it’s great with our small plates like the Ibérico.

PEP: I could even use it in my cooking.

Right now we have that scampi dish and the smoky flavor would infuse it perfectly.

FION: These days I think women enjoy whisky just as much as men – just look inside all the new whisky bars in Hong Kong.

MAURICIO: Just add some jamón, a cigar.

All we are missing is la playa – the beach – and we’re back in Spain – salud!

presented by johnnie walker

我在此的一大任务就是将 世界最棒的食材及亚洲特有的好客风格相互 融合。团队里就有三个人和 Adrià 合作或在 「elBulli」工作过，都抱着极高的期望。很 开心我们也能在此拿出相同的水准，让更多 人了解西班牙及加泰隆尼亚文化。 MARIE-PAULE: 我 们 真 的 像 一 家 人 一 样！ Mauricio 和我曾在「elBulli」并肩工作， 当时也是室友，感情像兄妹一样好，但可 以疯狂时我们也从不客气。在这边的大挑 战应该算语言，我也真的下了苦工学中文。 但成功的定义举世皆然，在香港也一样 ： 来自客人的感谢，逐渐变成常客都是很大的 肯定。 MAURICIO: 就是也有不顺的时候，还 记得烤 Segovia 乳猪那次吗？我们直接用碟 子切乳猪分肉，有个晚上碟子刚好破掉，一 块碎片飞出去，不偏不倚砸中酒窖室窗户。 当下我只能装没事，继续切肉分盘。 PEP: 真让人大冒冷汗！但可以维持西 MAURICIO:

“ 但可以维持西班牙 的传统习惯－餐后 酒，真的很开心。 即使在西班牙用 餐时间比较长， 最后总会留个空 档细细品尝一些 好东西，能在香 港复制这模式真 叫人心满意足。“ CHEF JOSEP “PEP” CASAS

班牙的传统习惯－餐后酒，真的很开心。即 使在西班牙用餐时间比较长，最后总会留个 空档细细品尝一些好东西，能在香港复制这 模式真叫人心满意足。 MAURICIO: 没错，伴着蓝牌享用。陈 年佳酿入口舒滑、酒体平衡，真的不是一句 顺口足以形容。你们也喜欢直接喝吗？真正 顶级的威士忌不用另外加冰块或水。 FION: 蓝牌搭配我们哪道菜好？ MAURICIO: 新任糕点主厨的作品－榛果 蛋糕和蓝牌的滑顺口感就搭配的非常完美， 或是伊比利火腿等小菜盘一起用效果也不赖。 PEP: 用来入菜也可以，烟熏味搭配我 们的虾料理，可以融合的恰到好处。 FION: 观察一下香港近年新开的威士忌 酒吧可以发现，现在女性喝威士忌的比例完 全不逊于男性。 MAURICIO: 再来点 jamón 顶级火腿、一 根雪茄，缺的就只剩 la playa 海滩的蓝天白云 了。感觉就和回到西班牙没两样－干杯！ sunday rituals

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Belon 贝隆

Dynasty 满福楼

Stack

European 31/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门悦榕庄31楼 q +853 8883 6090 Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: Wed to Mon: 18:00 – 23:00

5

Cantonese 3/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道1号万丽海景酒店3楼 q +852 2584 6971 Lunch: Mon to Sat: 12:00-15:00 Sun & PH: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: Daily: 18:00-22:30

5

5

Cascades 水帘 Bars and Lounges G002, G/F, Galaxy Hotel, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳門銀河TM」综合渡假城银 河酒店地下G002号铺 q +853 8883 2221 5

Catalunya Hong Kong Contemporary Spanish cuisine G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wan Chai ,Hong Kong 香港湾仔爱群道32号爱群商业大厦地下 q +852 2866 7900 Mon to Fri: Restaurant: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 Bar: 12:00- 02:00 Sat to Sun: Restaurant: 12:00-16:00; 18:00-23:00 Bar: 12:00-02:00 5

COVA Caffè – Ristorante

Lee Gardens Shop 101-3, 1/F., Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾希慎道33号利园商场一期1楼 101-103号铺 +852 2907 3399 Pacific Place Level 3, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港岛金钟道88号太古广场3楼 +852 2918 9660 Harbour City Shop G315, G/F., Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀广东道17号海港城港威商场地 下G315号铺 +852 2907 3882 Festival Walk Shop LG1-10 & 11, Festival Walk, 80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon Tong, Hong Kong 香港九龙塘达之路80号又一城LG1 层 11号铺 +852 2265 8688 Centro - Alexandra House Shop 203, 2/F., Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环历山大厦2楼203号铺 +852 2522 1833

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Hutong 胡同

Western G/F, 1 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong 香港西环西营盘第三街1号地下 q +852 2549 9787 Tue to Sun: 18:00-00:00

The Siam 3/2 Thanon Khao, Vachirapayabal, Dusit, Bangkok 10300, Thailand q +66 (0) 2206-6999

Contemporary Northern Chinese Hutong, 28/F One Peking Road Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀北京道1号28楼 q +852 3428 8342 Daily: Lunch: 12:00 – 15:00 Dinner: 18:00–00:00 Brunch: Sat: 12:00-15:30 (Starting March) Sun: 12:00 – 15:30

Terrazza Italian Restaurant 庭园意大利餐厅

LAN岚

Tenmasa 天政

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Bars and Lounges 1/F, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒 店1楼 q +853 8868 6685 Daily: 11:00-00:00 5

Mano Modern European G/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong 香港皇后大道中139号 The L Place 地下 q +852 2399 0737 Lunch: Mon to Fri:12:00-15:00 Sat:10:00-17:00 Dinner: Mon to Sat: 18:00-23:00 5

Post97 Casual British/European UG/F, 9 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环兰桂坊9号UG铺 q +852 2810 9331 Sun to Thur: 17:00-02:00 Fri to Sat, Holiday’s eve and Public Holiday: 17:00-late 5

Shinji by Kanesaka 金坂极上寿司 Japanese 1/F, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒 店1楼 q +853 8868 7300 Lunch : Thur to Mon: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: Wed to Mon: 18:00-23:00 5

Italian 201, 2/F Galaxy Hotel, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综合渡 假城银河酒店2楼201号铺 q +853 8883 2221 Mon to Sat: 18:00-23:00; Sun: 17:00-23:00 5

Japanese 11/F, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Macau 澳门广东大马路澳门新濠锋11楼 q +853 2886 8868 Tue to Sun: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 5

The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge 麦卡伦威士忌吧 Bars and Lounges 203, 2/F Galaxy Hotel, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau, 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综合渡 假城银河酒店2楼203号铺 q +853 8883 2221 Sun to Thur: 17:00-01:00 Fri to Sat: 17:0002:00 5

Tosca Italian Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍柯士甸道西1号环球贸易广场(ICC) 香港丽思卡尔顿酒店102楼 q ‬ +852 2263 2270 Mon to Sat: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 Sun:11:00-15:00；18:00-22:30 5

Vida Rica Bar 御苑酒吧 Bars and Lounges 2/F Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华 东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8928 Mon to Thur : 17:00-00:00, Fri: 17:00-01:00 Sat: 15:00-01:00, Sun: 15:00-00:00 5

Exceptional food, relaxed ambiance

OYSTER FESTIVAL “蚝”门夜宴 Since 2003, LaVilla Restaurant & Bar has been renowned as Hong Kong’s stylishly contemporary venue for romantic dinners. But it’s also the ideal place for birthdays, wedding celebrations, and private parties.

LaVilla Restaurant & Bar will have

LaVilla offers a full range of Continental cuisine with an emphasis on seafood and grills. Imported specialties

a two days Oyster Festival in May 15th

include a complete selection of fresh oysters from France, slow-cooked US Prime rib-eye beef, Ibérico ham

and 16th 2015, welcome all interested

from Spain, Chilean sea bass, and on and on. LaVilla also carries a wide array of wines from around the world

parties to join our party. Please call us

to perfectly complement your special meal. And we take extra care to make sure your dining experience will be unforgettable.

At night you’ll hear one of the hottest live bands in HK. From R&B to rock, soul to pop, blues to progressive,

for more details.

LaVilla Restaurant & Bar 将于2015年 5月15及16日举办名为“蚝”门夜宴的生

our band delivers every time.

蚝节，欢迎所有对生蚝有兴趣的人士 摩登餐厅LaVillla高雅静谧，是爱侣进餐和聚会派对的首选。空运进港的新鲜食材应有尽有，海 鲜和扒类更是镇店之宝。夜幕降临时食客可于餐厅内欣赏现场乐队表演，尽情享受醉人时光！

地址：九龙尖沙咀么地道66号尖沙咀中心地下G28号铺 Address: Tsim Sha Tsui Centre (G28, G/F), 66 Mody Road, TST East, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2724 0707 • Whatsapp: (852) 9628 0229 • Website: www.lavilla.hk

参加我们的宴会。详情请致电查询。

DAVID HARTUNG

dessert

Chef de Cuisine Takenori Noguchi of Tenmasa at Altira Macau prepares tempura ice cream wrapped in a thin layer of rice cake, dipped in batter, and fried at a very high temperature for just twenty seconds. Delicately crisp and hot on the outside, creamy and still cold on the inside, it’s served over sweet red beans and topped with soy bean powder, a spring roll, green tea powder, and black sugar syrup. 澳门新濠锋酒店「天政」餐厅（Tenmasa）的行政主厨 Takenori Noguchi 设计出一道精致甜点，

他以极薄米饼皮包裹雪糕天妇罗，沾取面糊后以高温油炸 20 秒，外皮酥脆温热、内馅顺 口冰凉，下方铺满甜红豆，洒上黄豆粉，顶部以一条细春卷缀饰，洒上绿茶粉，淋上些许黑糖浆。

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TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

(Th

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et Br ot h , s) er na Ka

en pe www.bugho l z m r.27, öb el. at

”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com