TK17 Spring Harvest by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 17

S P R I N G

K I T C H E N H A R V E S T

BANGKOK

Dream Theater 逐梦场 CENTRAL Seeing the Light 那一道曙光 SAI YING PUN Always Greener 素食新主张

DAVID HARTUNG

starter

Chef Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room & Bar meticulously fashions an amuse-bouche of gem-like canapés named Five Elements, based on those of traditional Chinese philosophy: “Earth” is mushroom panna cotta with enoki and porcini; “Fire” comes as purée of roasted bell pepper; “Water” glistens as a globe of coconut and oyster water; “Wood” is smoked eel wrapped with celery root; “Metal” contains a quail egg with essence of oyster and bacon oil. 知名女主厨刘韵棋创立 Tate Dining Room & Bar 餐厅，她以精准讲究手法制作的法式前菜，精巧细致犹如宝石。这道菜名为「五行」，即金、木、水、火、土，分别代表中国五行各元素的五道小吃。其中代表「土」「水」则是椰子的点心使用带有大地风味的意式蘑菇奶油奶冻配金针菇及牛肝菌粉，「火」是烤灯笼椒蓉，和生蚝水，「木」是烟熏鳗鱼卷佐芹菜根，「金」则是富含铁质的鹌鹑蛋配蚝汁和培根油。

TK | spring harvest

COVA

Spring

Lee Gardens

Pacific Place

Delights

Harbour City

www.cova.com.hk

Festival Walk

T A S T I N G 17

S P R I N G

K I T C H E N H A R V E S T

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 1001, Apec Plaza, 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Barbra Austin

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Mamie Hsien Chen

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Chris Dwyer

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Kate Nicholson

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Jane Ram

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Irene Sam

TRANSLATION SERVICES

Icy Ip

Jane Wong

Inara Sim

Babel Communications

CHINESE EDITOR

ACCOUNTANT

Victoria Lei Zita Wan

Terrie Lam

Anne-Clémence Tillette CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

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DISTRIBUTION One Logistics +852 5110 3084

A perfect male zucchini blossom, freshly harvested from Zen Organic Farm, epitomizes the approach of Nurdin Topham, executive chef and founder of Michelin-starred NUR in Central, Hong Kong. Topham believes that food must be in balance: nutritious, gastronomically interesting, sustainable. Read more about Chef Nurdin Topham starting on page 22. 这朵从有心机农场新鮮采收回来的精致栉瓜花，体现着Nurdin Topham选取新鲜食材的途径缩影。他是香港中环米其林星级餐厅NUR的创始人兼行政主厨，秉持着食物属性须在营养性、烹饪趣味性和可持续发展性间保持平衡的理念。请翻阅本刊第22页了解更多名厨Nurdin的食材分享。 Photography by David Hartung

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publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Spring Harvest, TK celebrates the vibrant colors, aromas, and tastes of the season’s freshest produce. We start in Central and travel to an organic farm in the New Territories with a chef who is dedicated to creating food that is as nourishing as it is delicious. In Sai Ying Pun nearby, we meet an entrepreneurial chef who’s done more than open her own restaurant – she has started a movement to educate diners in the benefits of plant-based diets for them, their communities, and the planet. Rooftop gardens are recently all the rage in Hong Kong, and we tour a prominent example in Wan Chai that provides dozens of varieties of fresh herbs to the kitchen one floor below. Then the Gault & Millau Chef of the Year fills us in on his advances in saucemaking techniques, including the discovery that cold can sometimes be a more powerful culinary tool than heat. And two winners from the recent Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards share their work: in Hong Kong, Vicky Lau, Asia’s Best Female Chef 2015, demonstrates the science and artistry behind her food, and in Bangkok at Gaggan, the S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia 2015, we experience cuisine that is both thought-provoking and dramatic. Finally, our journey ends on a lazy river cruise down the meandering Mekong, with plenty of time to enjoy the onboard menus designed by David Thompson, last year’s Asia’s 50 Best winner, and also to wander ashore through the villages of Cambodia and Vietnam, getting a fascinating taste of the local culture. Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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contents

2 STARTER 8 Toast the Macallan • 10 Perfect Alibi • 14 Signs of Spring • 16 Master of Sauce 22 Seeing The Light • 34 Hyper Local • 36 Always Greener • 40 Food Tells a Story 44 Dream Theater • 50 Food in Bloom • 52 Spring Arrivals • 54 The Royal Touch • 56 Promising Pairs

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contents

60 Portuguese Encore • 64 Fresh Focus • 68 Sum More • 72 Rite of Spring 74 Upside Down • 76 Discovering South Africa • 78 Aqua Mekong • 86 Wine Spring 88 Dynamic Dominion • 92 A Case of the Vapors • 96 Illustrious Apéritif 106 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 108 D E S S E R T

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presented by the macallan

向麦卡伦致敬

toast the macallan An exclusive exhibition at Hong Kong’s Liang Yi Museum and a series of master classes led by tasting professional Stephen Mack immerse guests in the concepts of The Macallan’s Six Pillars that define the character of the legendary single malt.

ADMIRE THE MACALLAN’S PALETTE of rich hues from golden oak to mahogany, natural color achieved solely by the interaction between the spirit and the red oak of the aging casks. Inhale deeply and luxuriate in the aroma of smoky wood notes imparted by these painstakingly selected casks. Notice hints of dried fruits and ginger from those seasoned with Spanish sherry, tones of vanilla and citrus from those seasoned with American sherry, and traces of citrus and coconut from those seasoned with American bourbon. Take a long sip and savor the whisky’s complex layers of flavor as they play out in sequence. The Macallan’s finest cut of 16 percent, arguably the strictest in the industry, ensures that only the best of the best comprises the “new make” spirit that is the starting point for all their whiskies. The distillery’s “curiously small stills” – so iconic that they appear on a Scottish ten pound note – are uniquely sized and shaped to allow a greater contact between spirit and copper, concentrating the product and delivering intense, full-bodied tastes. During the distillation process, the short, wide dimensions of the stills help to retain the apple and peach notes of the malted barley and to enhance The Macallan’s creamy richness that lingers so long on the palate. These elements, along with the traditions and heritage of The Macallan’s spiritual home, Easter Elchies House, embody the whisky maker’s exacting pursuit of the peerless spirit. They comprise the Six Pillars that make The Macallan one of the world’s most highly prized whiskies. 麦卡伦威士忌酒液的色泽令人赞叹不已，从金黄琥珀色到红木色，皆是威士忌在陈年红橡木酒桶中自然形成的色泽。品酩前先深吸一口气，纵情享受来自精挑细选的酒桶所散发的烟熏木香：使用西班牙雪利桶陈的威士忌，带有干果香气与姜味；使用美国雪莉桶陈的威士忌，带有香草与柑橘气息；而使用美国波本桶陈的威士忌则是带有柑橘与椰子香气。缓缓啜饮一口，用心感受威士忌入喉后丰富复杂的韵味，于口舌中逐一绽放。麦卡伦采用最精萃的 16% 酒心，堪称业界最严苛的标准，以确保原酒（New Make）维持万中选一的卓越品质，而原酒是所有威士忌的酿制起点。麦卡伦酒厂使用的最小巧铜管蒸馏仪极具代表性，甚至被印制于苏格兰的 10 镑纸钞上，蒸馏仪独特的体型与形形状短而宽的蒸馏仪有助保存发芽大麦的奶油气味，更能提升麦卡伦威士忌齿颊留香的浓郁奶油香。以上这些元素结合麦卡伦的灵魂所在－伊斯特 • 艾尔奇庄园（Easter Elchies House），体现麦卡伦追求完美永不妥协的精神，更组成「Six Pillars 六大支柱」精粹醇品系列，赋予麦卡伦「全世界最珍贵威士忌」的美誉。

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

状，可增加酒液与铜管的接触范围，让原酒拥有更丰富、浓郁的口味。在蒸馏的过程中，

Guests of the “Toast The Macallan” event explore exhibits showcasing The Macallan’s heritage and provenance and partake in a guided tasting of whisky expressions from the Sherry Oak Series, the Fine Oak Series and the 1824 Collection. 「追源寻味麦卡伦」品鉴会的来宾们可透过品尝麦卡伦 Sherry Oak系列、 Fine Oak系列和 1824系列，从中探寻麦卡伦的历史根源和传承过程。

SPRING HARVEST | TK |

inspired living

完美享受尽在

perfect alibi Whether it’s business by day or an evening out with friends, urban chic gets redefined at Langham Place’s newest bar and lounge.

COURTESY OF ALIBI (2)

ALIBI – WINE DINE BE SOCIAL is a project that’s been two years in the making for Hong Kong’s premier Mongkok hotel, Langham Place. The venue design is the work of Stickman, the HK and Dubai studio behind many of today’s leading interior design projects in the food and beverage industry. Kate Nicholson talks with Karen Hay, Director, Stickman, about the new fifthfloor venue, whose ethos, according to Hay, was to “create a relaxing atmosphere where friends and colleagues can gather over the best East-West fusion food and drinks.”

Before you began planning the Alibi project, were you aware of the food and bar menus and of the personal styles of Chef de Cuisine Tim Bruges and Mixologist Leo Cheung? Yes, this was built into the design from the outset. We worked closely with Chef Tim Bruges and Executive Chef Paul Mcloughlin, together with the Executive Assistant Manager of Food and Beverage Elaine Joe and the General Manager Shaun Campbell, to define the food concept and

create the vision. When it came to the food presentation, we were also involved in the selection of the right dinnerware, cutlery, glassware, and the like. It all makes a significant difference, tying the menu to the interior style and creating a strong brand. We’re control freaks – designing A to Z is our ethos. How does your design complement the menu and style of the food and drinks? We essentially created three zones. The first is located in front of the entrance overlooking the kitchen bar. The seating style and tables in this zone are more suited to dining. The second zone is to the right of the entrance facing the bar. It’s a bit more loungy, but also has a long solid wood bench with bar stools so guests can sit in front of the wine wall. We created two elongated chesterfield style sofas, but with a twist – they’re upholstered in a natural hemp fabric printed with the crests of several of the vineyards that supply wine to Alibi. The third zone is framed by two fireplaces, which use vapor but give a very convincing impression

香港首屈一指的旺角朗豪酒店 (Langham Place) 策划两年的全新空间「Alibi - 酒吧餐厅聚荟」由活跃于国际舞台的香港及杜拜建筑师事务所 Stickman 操刀，近年许多餐饮界指标性室内设计案都是出自他们的手笔。 Stickman 总监 Karen Hay 接受 TK 特约作家 Kate Nicholson 专访，介绍这个位于五楼、以「创造轻松氛围」为旨打造的全新聚会场地，除了是朋友及同事聚餐小酌的绝佳去处，更可尽情享受东西融合的美馔及饮品，水准之高绝对包君满意。

筹划之初，餐点、酒吧菜单，抑或总厨 Tim Bruges 及调酒师张日进的个人风格都有纳入考虑之内吗？这些元素打从一开始便与我们的设计密不可分。我们和总厨 Tim Bruges、行政总厨 Paul Mcloughlin、餐饮部助理行政经理周嘉明及总经理 Shaun Campbell 一起讨论菜色的大方向，共同打造属于我们的愿景。餐点的整体呈现，从合适的晚宴餐具、刀具到酒杯的挑选我们也都参与其中。这种作业模式的效果显而易见：餐点与空间设计搭配的天衣无缝，形塑强有力的品牌形象。我们每一个都是控制狂，从头到尾全包就是正字标记。 spring harvest

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What sort of atmosphere were you hoping to evoke with your choices of color and materials? We wanted to go for a more urban feel, but it still had to be elegant, which makes for some unusual juxtapositions. We were pushing the boat out by going for a polished concrete bar top and a concrete rendered ceiling, with a large dropped semi-circle over the apex of the bar in pewter finish. The back bar shelves and screens on either side of the entry are in raw steel. The floor is natural recycled oak set in ship-deck

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planks, which adds a certain warmth. Then we soften it up with a combination of leathers and fabrics in the upholstery, using a base palette of warm ochre yellow, teal blue, and soft neutral grey. This adds a splash of color during the day when the natural light pours in through the large windows overlooking Langham Place so the place doesn’t look washed out. As evening comes, the colors take on a deeper warm hue with the soft lighting. The pendant lights are all a fairly robust nautical style with metal baskets and ropes. Combined with the fireplaces, they give a very warm glow in the evening. Were there any must-have requests from your client, or did you have free reign over the design? The client was very supportive and we were given a lot of freedom. The budget was a challenge, but we guided the client as to which items were must-have in order to give the required impact and which could

be substituted or modified. We were initially hoping for more of an open kitchen, but licensing requirements didn’t allow it. Instead, the chefs have an amazing kitchen with picture windows over the bustling Mongkok markets below. It’s probably the best kitchen in Hong Kong. What would you say is unique about the design of Alibi? It doesn’t feel like you’re in a hotel restaurant or bar – I think that’s a bit unexpected, and so far it’s been very well received and very busy. The style is comfortable, and combined with the good food and atmosphere, it makes for a very pleasurable experience. It’s designed so that each zone offers its own ambiance – guests keep coming back and finding something new. Visit Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social in person at Floor 5, Langham Place, MongKok, Hong Kong, or online at www.hongkong.langhamplacehotels.com/restaurants/alibi.htm.

COURTESY OF ALIBI (2)

of live flames and add a warm, inviting glow to the lounge. This zone is intended to be the “living room” – it’s much more loungy and cozy with sofas in contrasting patterned and textured fabrics and wingbacks in herringbone tweed. It’s full of artifacts and memorabilia from the past, like a personal collection that you just can’t part with – old radios, telephones, wooden puppets, vintage tin cars.

inspired living

你们的设计如何与菜单及餐饮风格相辅相成？我们将 Alibi 划成三大区块，第一区就在入口前，厨房吧台尽收眼底，座椅及餐桌风格较有用餐的气氛。第二区则面向吧台，落在入口区右方，带些 lounge 的慵懒情调，但仍备有木制长桌，搭配吧台高脚椅，让客人可以向着整面落地酒墙而坐；此区还加了两座特制加长型靠背沙发，沙发垫裹着天然麻质布料，上面可见多种花纹，正是 Alibi 合作的酒庄代表图徽，颇具巧思。第三区则以两处壁炉作为界线，虽仅有人工烟雾，却几可乱真，如同真正的炉火一般，为 lounge 带来满室温暖及光线。我们想把这一区做成「客厅」，运用花纹及质地各异的沙发，加上毛呢人字图案的躺椅，营造随性舒适的感觉。此区放满过往的工艺品及怀旧物件，就像不忍割舍的个人收藏一样：老收音机、电话、木偶以及复古锡车等。选用特定的颜色及物件，想要营造出什么样的氛围？

我们想走都会风，同时要保有优雅，营造少见的错置冲突之美。吧台区以抛光处理的混凝土建造，天花板也融入混凝土元素；吧台上方浮出巨大的半圆形，表面为白铁材质，可说不惜斥重金所打造。入口两侧的吧台后酒柜及隔板用粗钢材做成，并回收利用船只甲板的橡木条，铺成天然的木质地板，增添一股暖意。室内装潢以皮革与布料的组合为主轴，搭配温暖的黄褐色、蓝绿色及温和的灰色中性色系，立刻让整体色调柔和许多。白天自然光线透过俯瞰朗豪酒店的大扇窗户洒落室内时，揉合出一抹色彩，让空间不带任何一丝陈旧感；夜幕低垂时，温静的室内灯光则衬托暖色调的深沉。垂灯的金属灯罩及吊架散发强烈的海洋风格，再加上壁炉，登时让入夜后的 Alibi 暖意无处不在。

「Alibi」设计当中独一无二的元素为何？到 Alibi，完全没有置身酒店餐厅或酒吧的感觉，光这点就超乎许多人的预期。目前为止客人的反应都非常正面，生意一直很好。我们的风格很舒服，加上美妙的食物及气氛，让人享有非常愉悦的体验。Alibi 空间设计有其深意，各分区散发独特的氛围，让客人一试便成主顾，每次来都有新发现。

有什么是客户指定要做的吗；或你们通常都能自由发挥，对设计有主导权？客户都很支持我们，在创作上给予我们很大的空间。预算当然是一大挑战，不

「Alibi – 酒吧餐厅聚荟」位于香港旺角朗豪酒店 5 楼，更多讯息可浏览官网 www. hongkong.langhamplacehotels.com/restaurants/alibi.htm。

过我们也常循循善诱，让客户了解有哪些元素非要不可，才能达到预想的效果，又有哪些是可以替换及调整的项目。依据初始的蓝图，客户想要的是开放式厨房，但相关许可没有下来，取而代之的是厨师们拥有让人屏息的美丽厨房，朝观景窗看去，旺角市场的繁忙景况一览无遗，说是香港最棒的厨房可能都不为过。

food & art

TK | spring harvest

春意处处

Signs of Spring

THE FOUR SEASONS - SPRING, (OIL ON PANEL), VRANCX , SEBASTIAN (1573-1647) / PRIVATE COLLECTION / PHOTO © CHRISTIE’S IMAGES / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

Bounty and the promise of renewal are the themes of a painting that eloquently speaks of its time and place.

Sebastian Vrancx 于 1573 年出生在法兰德 SEBASTIAN VRANCX, born in 1573, was a Flemish 斯地区，他是巴洛克风格的画家与蚀刻画 Baroque painter and etcher, known today for battle 家，以刻画战争场面、风景、风俗题材以 scenes, landscapes, genre subjects, and visual 及取材寓言的作品闻名。 allegories. 在当时的荷兰与法兰德斯地区，寓 Allegorical paintings were enormously popular 言画非常受欢迎， Sebastian Vrancx 曾与 in this era in Holland and Flanders, and numerous 其他画家创作各种以四季为寓意主题的 versions representing the seasons were executed （The Four 作品。此幅名为「四季之春」 by Vrancx and others. In The Four Seasons – Spring , ）的画作，是 Seasons Spring Sebastian shown here, he portrays all the color and variety of 为展现各种春天盛开的植物而创， Vrancx the season’s abundance. Common to large Flemish still 色彩缤纷，画面中还有当时法兰德斯地区 lifes of the time are a kitchen maid, a religious scene, 的大型静物画常见的厨房女仆、宗教场景、 horticultural tasks, and favorite foods. 园艺工作与各式美味食物等等。 Among the seasonal delights is a 画面中的一把芦笋是春季 BY bundle of asparagus. Often seen in its white 的当令食材，在荷兰黄金时代 KATE NICHOLSON variety in Dutch Golden Age paintings, it is 的绘画作品中常见的芦笋品种 prized to this day in Belgian markets in early 为白芦笋。直至今日，白芦笋 PAINTING BY spring. Other clues to the time of year are 在比利时的市场中仍旧身价非 SEBASTIAN VRANCX foods eaten during Lent, including pretzels 凡。其他带有春意的物品包含 and mussels. A loaf marked with a cross and 基督教大斋期会食用的卷饼与淡菜，一条 the presence of eggs among the fruits and pies may 带有十字标记的面包和混在水果与派饼中 point to the preparation of an Easter feast. 的蛋，可能暗示百姓正在为复活节大餐作 In the middle distance workers tend gardens on 准备。 a lavish country estate. During this period, a passion在画面的中景处，是几名正在一幢豪 ate demand for Dutch exports like flowers and soused 华乡村庄园工作的工人。当时荷兰出口的 herring made a privileged sector of society fabulously 花卉与醋渍鲱鱼需求畅旺，为荷兰贸易产 wealthy, and it became fashionable to acquire rural 业带来惊人的财富，富有商人竞相购买乡 properties, often as hobby farms. 村庄园，多半作为休闲农场。 The waterfall of flora down the right of the paint画面右边出现大量植物，显示花卉园 ing reveals the Dutch affinity for horticulture, and in 艺在荷兰的重要性；而在这个万物丰饶的 this springtime cornucopia the tulip has the greatest 春天，最耀眼的主角非荷兰郁金香莫属。 significance. Its popularity throughout Europe reached 当时郁金香风行全欧，甚至在市场中兴起 such heights that in 1646 a market bubble, tulipmania, 一股郁金香热潮，又称郁金香泡沫。 1646 brought prices for some varieties to three times the 年，某些郁金香品种的价格居然高达一名 annual income of a skilled worker. Many families made 技术工人三年的总收入。许多家庭在这股 their fortunes in the craze, only to lose them over狂潮中一夕致富，转眼却又顿失所有。不 night, and it is not too hard to imagine them gazing on 难想象他们会痴痴望着这类画作，期盼春 a painting of this kind and wondering if spring would 天再次降临。 ever return.

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King Crab Wild Salad with Pea Puree, served at Le Grande Table at Royal Mansour, Marrakech 皇帝蟹沙律伴青豆蓉

interview

酱汁魔法师

Master of Sauce Anne-Clémence Tillette talks to a major star of the culinary world who has revisited the roots of classic French cuisine and reimagined its most basic component.

In its 2015 edition, the influential French restaurant guide Gault & Millau awarded the title Chef of the Year to Yannick Alléno. Alléno, who had previously presided over the Michelin three-star restaurant Le Meurice in Paris, made a triumphant return to the City of Light last July, taking over culinary direction of the historic Pavillon Ledoyen on the Champs Elysées. Within six months, the restaurant, now named Alléno Paris, was awarded three Michelin stars. If asked, he might attribute his success to the reinvention of that modest and often neglected element: the sauce. § 有法国「美食圣经」称号的权威指南「Gault & Millau」公布2015年评鉴结果，夺下「年度最佳主厨」荣衔的正是曾于巴黎米其林三星餐厅「Le Meurice」担任主厨

的烹饪鬼才 Yannick Alléno。去年7月他也曾获香榭丽舍大道上历史悠久的顶级餐厅「Pavillon Ledoyen」之邀为厨房掌舵，凯旋回归光影之城巴黎，短短6个月的时间，现更名为「Alléno Paris」的餐厅便摘下米其林三星荣耀。问到诀窍何

在，看似无足轻重、不起眼的简单元素：酱汁，就是主厨大获成功的幕后功臣。

Spinach Cannelloni with Ricotta, Cream of Artichoke and Parmesan, served at STAY Taipei

Sole Fillet dressed with Apples and Mushrooms, served at STAY Taipei

Skin-Seared Salmon with Green Lentils, Pink Berries and Wild Ginger, served at STAY Taipei

菠菜意式面卷伴意大利软奶酪、洋蓟奶油及帕尔马奶酪

鳎目鱼柳配苹果与蘑菇

香煎三文鱼伴小扁豆、杂莓及生姜

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interview

“INNOVATION DRIVES MY WORK,” Chef

Alléno says. “I want to find my own way of cooking and not keep repeating the same dishes.” When Alléno took over at Pavillon Ledoyen, he had just completed two years of research on sauces, which he summarized in a book, Sauces, réflexions d’un cuisinier (Sauces: Reflections of a Chef), published in May 2014. Two months later, Pavillon Ledoyen became the ideal place to put his newest discoveries into practice. “Sauce is the verb of French cuisine. There is no story without sauce,” insists Alléno. “With the trend of nouvelle cuisine in France in the 1970s, sauce was abandoned because it was considered too greasy, too heavy. We switched to jus, where we cook ingredients in water for three hours, strain through a sieve and reheat the broth to get a concentrated juice by a heating process called reduction. But we lost the full flavor of sauce, the way it was prepared by Antonin Carême and Auguste Escoffier, the fathers of French cuisine. I wanted sauce to come back in my cuisine, but without its heaviness. So I started to look for another way.” Alléno was aided in the quest by Bruno Goussault, director of the culinary research center CREA, famous for pioneering sous vide, a slow-cooking method that was perfected in the 1970s. The two men, who worked together for two years and tried as many as 500 extractions to produce exactly the right flavors, were finally successful in achieving some remarkable results. “Contrary to the traditional method where you heat ingredients together to make a sauce, my way is to make ‘mono-element’ sauces. I start with a single ingredient, such as celeriac, which I cook at precisely the right temperature with sous vide techniques for twelve hours, followed by centrifuging. Then I do a reduction by freezing instead of heating. This is the innovation – I take out the water in a less aggressive process than by heating. It is called cryo-concentration, and the result is incredible – pure flavor, a very light and pure sauce which retains all its minerality without any salt. This is totally new and compelling.”

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Alléno 表示：「创新就是我前进的动力。我想找到专属自己的烹饪风格，不想整天做重复的菜色。」他接手「Pavillon Ledoyen」时，适逢闭关告一段落，期间整整两年全神投入钻研酱汁，成果也集结成书「Sauces, réflexions d’un cuisinier」，并于 2014 年 5 月问世。两个月后，「Pavillon Ledoyen」正巧成为主厨的最佳展示舞台，发表融合酱汁的最新创意菜色。他特别指出：「酱汁在法文中是作动词用，少了它就没故事可说了。70 年代，法国「新烹饪」蔚为风潮，传统酱汁因为太油、味道太重，曾一度没落；而高汤则大行其道。把各式食材放入水中熬煮三小时，高汤过筛后再温热，如此经过加热得到浓稠汤汁的过程就叫浓缩。然而这种方式让法式料理之父 Antonin Carême 及 Auguste Escoffier 流传下来的酱汁佚失全貌，丰厚风味不复存在。我的菜就是要让传统酱汁重生，却又不带给味觉任何负担，于是我就开始着手尝试了。」 Alléno 一路上并不孤单，法国烹饪研究与教育学院 (CREA) 总监 Bruno Goussault 也自愿加入钻研酱汁的行列中，70 年代臻至完美的真空低温烹调法在 CREA 手中迭有突破，闻名于世。两人密切合作两年多，为了制作最准确的味道，试过至少五百种萃取浓缩方式，所幸努力并未白费，成果颇为丰硕。「有别于把所有食材放一起熬煮的老方法，我做的是『单素材』酱汁。从单一食材着手，像块根芹，就以真空低温烹调 12 小时，温度控制丝毫不差，接着再经离心萃取，之后的浓缩阶段便是创新所在，不加热，而以冷冻来作业－因而过

程相对加热来得温和许多，以便顺势抽离水这个元素，此方法称为低温浓缩，结果相当惊人：纯粹的味道，清爽、纯酱汁不经盐亦能保留所有矿物特质。这种全新作法，效果令人惊叹不已。」低温浓缩技术最早可追溯到 1928 年，但应用在食物上还是第一次。 Alléno 尚未申请专利，也没有这个打算，毕竟制作过程并非精妙所在，重点还是在于主厨如何巧妙结合纯正浓缩的风味，并转化为完全原创的美味酱汁。「我师法酿酒中的『调配』手法，单一食材，像块根芹、烤南瓜、巴黎钮扣菇、萝卜、枣子一一低温浓缩处理，之后再混搭出独一无二的味道。我的奶酱比目鱼 (lait de sole) 就是这样做出来的 – 混合浓缩块根芹、松露及其他食材，最后再搭配鱼肉即可。」混搭有无限可能，但要如何做出异于普通红酒的 grand cru 特级酒、抑或超越一般酒馆菜色的三星等级美味，「调配」的手法无疑是关键所在。 Alléno 说：「各种食材我都想浓缩处理看看，但这绝对是苦差事，尤其是鱼类肉类：低温浓缩过程无法提炼出胶质，但鱼或肉油脂里又要有胶质才能引出丰富的味道。所以冷冻前胶质要先移除，之后浓缩时再找个方法融入。若是根茎类蔬菜的话，上手程度就容易得多。」主厨也看到低温浓缩的另一种应用的可能性 – 冰淇淋，因为水果浓缩也带有「高度精粹的味道」。问到这些创新作法是否足以带动法国新一波的烹饪风潮？ Alléno 表示自己也不得而知：「我创作不为后世子孙，而是想满足我的客人，纯粹想为他们创造『最棒』的美食体验。」

CREA, or Centre de Recherche et d’Etudes pour l’Alimentation (The Culinary Research

and Education Academy), was founded by French scientist Bruno Goussault to train chefs in sous vide cooking, a low-temperature technique he developed in the 1970s to improve the flavor and tenderness of food. It is now widely used in restaurants and food services around the world. Forty-three Michelin-starred chefs have been trained at the center’s facilities in Paris and Washington, D.C. 法国烹饪研究与教育学院（CREA) 由法国科学家 Bruno Goussault 创立，旨在训练世界顶尖厨师精进真空低温烹调技术。真空低温法问世后广为各界运用，为许多餐厅和备餐时不可或缺的技术。 CREA 于巴黎及华盛顿均有附属机构，于中心受训的米其林厨师所在多有，加总达 43 颗星。

DAVID HARTUNG

Chef Yannick AllĂŠno

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Contisé with Tapenade and Pissalat, Zucchini and Parmesan, served at STAY Taipei

Vegetables on a Zucchini, with Tomato Truffle Sauce and Parmesan, served at STAY Taipei

Contisé 伴酸豆橄榄酱和鯷鱼酱，配西葫芦及帕尔马奶酪

杂菜伴西葫芦，蕃茄松露酱及帕尔马奶酪

Roasted Rhubarb in Caramelized Crust with Chewy Verbena Pearls, served at Le Grande Table at Royal Mansour, Marrakech

Fine Pike Mousse with Celery Extract, served at 1947 in Courchevel

烤大黄伴焦糖酥皮及马鞭草

梭子鱼慕斯配芹菜汁

©NICOLAS BUISSON (4)

interview

The cryo process was discovered in 1928, but its application to food is new. Alléno has not patented it and is not planning to do so, perhaps because the genius of the idea comes not from the process itself, but from the way the chef combines the essential, concentrated flavors to make sauces that are completely original. “I do assemblage, as in the wine process. I make frozen reductions of single ingredients – celeriac, roasted pumpkin, Paris white button mushrooms, carrots, dates – and I mix these various reductions together to end up with a unique combination of flavors. That’s how I make my lait de sole (milk of sole fish) – I mix an extraction of celeriac with an extraction of truffle and other ingredients and add it to the sole.” The possibilities for combination are endless, but what makes all the difference between a grand cru wine and an ordinary one or between a three-star dish and regular bistro fare is precisely the talent for assemblage. “I would like to extract everything,” says Alléno, “but it is hard work, especially with fish and meat. I cannot extract gelatin in the cryo-concentration process, but it’s gelatin which gives the rich taste from the fat of the meat or fish. So I have to remove the gelatin before freezing and find a way to put it back into the extraction. With root vegetables, for example, the process is much easier to master.” The chef sees yet another application of the cryo-concentration process to ice creams, since “fruit extractions are incredibly concentrated in flavor.” Do his discoveries have the potential to drive a whole new trend in French cuisine? “I don’t know,” replies Alléno, “I don’t work for posterity. I work to satisfy my clients, simply to give them the best food experience.”

Chocolate Dulcey Tart, Milk-Saturated Biscuit and Caramelized Hazelnuts, served at STAY Taipei Dulcey朱古力挞伴牛奶饼干及焦糖榛子

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ingredients

那一道曙光

Seeing theLight

To create food that is delicious, beautiful, and also deeply nourishing, Nur balances head, heart and palate.

BY JANE RAM

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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Nurdin Topham, a softspoken native Londoner, is both culinary brain and creative soul behind NUR, a restaurant with a resolute emphasis on fresh, natural, and local, and whose name in Arabic means “light.” Within a year of its April 2014 opening, the fortyseat Hong Kong venue was awarded a Michelin star and had achieved a loyal following. Recently Topham made one of his monthly treks to a local supplier, Zen Organic Farm in Ta Kwu Ling. “Sourcing produce is our greatest challenge,” he says, “and it’s great to see vegetables actually growing in the fields. Siu Ming has worked with NUR since the beginning, helping us establish our New Territories relationships. We work with growers to help them define the perfect time to harvest. “Our menu changes all the time, whenever we get new products. We offer a tasting menu which enables us to control costs and waste, and we can do a vegetarian menu, or vegan with enough notice. People in Hong Kong are accustomed to decadent eating, but we remain true to our intention to present more plant-based foods. For our summer menu I’m aiming to balance the meal from the traditional Chinese perspective, bearing in mind the heating and cooling nature of the ingredients. I have a longstanding interest in natural therapy and traditional Chinese medicine – I studied acupuncture and took a master’s degree course in healing through food. A meal should cater to the needs of the body – one of my issues with local pop food is the lack of consideration for what we need to eat. I came to Hong Kong to create something that’s inspired by the future.” 来自英国伦敦的大厨 Nurdin Topham 说话十分轻柔，他是打造 NUR 餐厅美味佳肴的大厨，也是该餐厅巧思创意的源头，，在坚持只用新鲜、自然、在地的食材。餐厅名为「NUR」阿拉伯文中意指「光」。自 2014 年 4 月营业至今，这家内设四十个座位的香港餐厅已荣获米其林一星的殊荣，也拥有许多忠实顾客。

Nurdin Topham 最近前往位于香港打鼓岭的「有心机农场」，这是餐厅的食材供应商，他每月都要来一次。他表示：「寻找蔬果供应来源是最高挑战，而在这里能亲眼看到田野里一片生机盎然的蔬菜瓜果，让人非常欣慰。Siu Ming 从创建初期便与我们合作，协助我们在新界建立人脉网络，我们也跟农夫密切合作，帮助他们判定最佳的收成时机。」「只要有新鲜食材进货，我们就会变换菜单内容。此外，会提供品尝菜单，有助掌控成本并减少浪费；素食菜单也在供应行列，如果客人事先知会，也可以制作纯素餐点。香港人的饮食习惯较不节制，我们则维持一贯初衷：餐点的食材以蔬果为主。针对夏日菜单，我想结合传统中医观点，搭配使用凉性、热性的食材，让食材属性达到平衡，我对于自然疗法与传统中医一直很有兴趣，曾经学过针灸，也取得营养学的硕士学位，学习食疗的相关知识。饮食应该符合人体所需，我认为香港美食的问题在于，没有考虑到人到底需要吃什么，我来到香港，就是希望打造未来的美食。」

Chef Nurdin Topham and Siu Ming scrutinize zucchini blossoms and fruit at Zen Organic Farm. 大厨Nurdin Topham与Siu Ming在「有心机农场」仔细检视栉瓜开花结果的情形。

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Topham’s major

Nurdin Topham 大厨师承于致力创新的英国美食教父 influences include Raymond Blanc, one of Britain’s Raymond Blanc，并深受恩师影响。他曾在 Raymond leading culinary innovators. While working in the Blanc 位于伦敦的 Claridge’s 的餐厅工作，某次尝过 kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Topham tasted a 一道由 Raymond Blanc 亲手制作的蕃茄料理，惊为 remarkable tomato dish prepared by Blanc that 天人，首次发现新鲜蔬果原来能创造如此美妙的滋味， opened his eyes to the potential for flavor from qual为之大开眼界。 Nurdin Topham 在 Raymond Blanc ity produce. He spent a decade working at Blanc’s 所经营的米其林二星餐厅工作了十年之久，学会了尊 two-star restaurant, where he gained respect for 重食物链的自然规律，也了解到何谓责任采购。这段 the food chain and for responsible sourcing. During 期间内，他取得营养师的资格，并在 Raymond Blanc that time he qualified as a nutritional therapist and 建立的烹饪学校担任重要职务。 eventually headed Blanc’s cooking school. Nurdin Topham 独特的烹调风格，主要来自于他 The distinctive style of Topham’s cuisine also 在哥本哈根的经验。首先是在 René Redzepi 大厨开 owes much to the time he spent in Copenhagen, 这里非常重视使用自然当令的蔬果；设的 Noma 餐厅， first at René Redzepi’s Noma, with its reverence for 其次是在北欧食品实验室，Nurdin Topham 在此学习 natural seasonal produce, and then at the Nordic 手工食品生产与发酵技术，并进行一项有关可食用昆 Food Lab. There Topham studied artisanal food pro虫的计画。此外，他还醉心在当地植物的采摘中。 duction and fermentation techniques and conducted 「有心机农场」中大部分的蔬果都是经由播种繁 a project on edible insects. It’s also where he learned 育，四处皆是排列整齐的蔬菜与香草，但也能在此 to enjoy foraging for native plants. 探索采摘的乐趣。Nurdin Topham 在一排排作物间徘 Most of the produce at Zen Organic Farm is 徊，眼神在迷人的罗勒、萝卜、芝麻菜之间逡巡，寻 grown from seed in orderly lines of vegetables and 找躲藏在角落、十分不起眼的野生植物。发现醋浆草 herbs. But there are opportunities for foraging even 时，他眼睛一亮，通常从事园艺的人最讨厌醋浆草， here. As Topham prowls the rows, his eye strays 但 Nurdin Topham 则是立刻拔起这些新鲜醋浆草，小 from the alluring basil, radishes, and rocket to light 心翼翼放到篮中。在大部分人眼中平淡无奇的杂草， on what look like insignificant wild plants at the Nurdin Topham 却能从中挖掘出复杂的口感与风味： side of the vegetable bed. He beams at the sight of 极为爽脆、味道极为鲜明，且带有果香味，能在口中 oxalis, or wood sorrel – detested by gardeners – then 留下怡人余韵。 plucks some fresh blooms and places them gently in his basket. In what most people consider a common weed, Topham finds a revelation Topham’s house-cured charcuterie, fresh cheese, and mixed salad of of complex texture and flavor: surprisingly roots, greens, and blossoms seem to have fallen naturally into place. crisp, sharp on the palate, then fruity, with 大厨 Nurdin Topham 自行腌制的咸肉，搭配新鲜起司，以及混合 a pleasing aftertaste. 新鲜菜根、绿菜叶、花瓣的色拉，打造出浑然天成的绝佳美味。

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A baby radish just pulled from the earth typifies NUR’s philosophy of freshness. 刚从土里拔出的迷你萝卜，完全体现NUR的新鲜哲学。

Even beef tongue

makes a showy main course when served according to NUR’s tenets. “Many people say they don’t eat tongue, so we refer to it as beef,” says Topham. “I really believe we should make more use of animal parts – it’s grass-fed, healthy meat. We slow cook it, then grill it over binchotan Japanese charcoal.” Made from Kushi oak burned at very high temperature, this activated charcoal imparts a special flavor and glaze to the meat, which is finished in the oven and seasoned with dried watercress for a peppery taste. Other elements include watercress stalks, watercress oil, and two types of radish. The first is shaved raw for crunch, the other prepared by a lengthy process. “The radishes are salted, fermented, dried, and fermented again,” says Topham. “Once the right intensity of lactic acid is developed and they’ve acquired a depth of flavor, we serve them in dashi pickle – dashi stock, rice vinegar, and kombu kelp – which develops wonderful umami mouthfeel.”

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只要依照 NUR 所坚守的原则，牛舌也能成为「很非常吸引人的主菜。Nurdin Topham 表示：多人会说不吃动物舌头，所以我们就称之为牛肉。我衷心认为应该善用动物各个部位。这是草饲牛肉，健康营养，我们以慢火烹调，并以日式备长炭烧烤。」备常炭是橡木经由高温烧成的，以这种木炭烧烤的肉带有特殊风味与色泽。烧烤后在炉中进行最后的处理程序，再洒上干西洋菜调味，为烤肉添加一抹辛味。其他食材包含西洋菜茎、西洋菜油以及两种萝卜：一种直接削皮，保有爽脆口感；另一种则得耗时「先加入盐巴腌烹调。Nurdin Topham 说明：

制，发酵，拧干，再腌制一次，产生足够的乳酸，便已具有深度风味；再加入日式海鲜高汤、寿司醋以及昆布烹煮，这些食材能在口中留下一股鲜美甘味。」

Beef Tongue, Watercress, Lettuce and Fermented Radish Salad 牛舌，西洋菜，生菜和发酵萝卜沙拉

Topham enjoys

Nurdin Topham 喜欢做不同口感的食材搭配实 experimenting with various textures, often slow 验，他通常会将食材分开调理，完成精准度极 cooking items individually to precise degrees of 高的处理工序，再组合成一道完整的料理。其 doneness before assembling them in a finished dish. 中最引人注目的，是一道日式鲭鱼料理，采用 In one such offering the centerpiece is Japanese 「断筋活杀法」（ike jime）的人道宰杀法，避免 mackerel, killed by a humane method known as ike 因宰杀途中，鱼体分泌压力荷尔蒙从而影响鱼 jime that prevents stress hormones from adversely 肉品质。因此这是生鱼片等级的优质鱼肉。鲭 affecting the flesh of the sushi-grade fish. The 鱼以柴鱼片与盐巴调味，以低温小心烧烤，锁 mackerel is seasoned with shaved bonito and salt, 住肉汁。酱汁中含有日式苹果高汤，以及金线 then grilled gently at a low temperature to keep it 莲油、白大豆和新鲜柚子汁。摆盘时加上牛血 succulent. Apple dashi glaze forms part of the sauce, 红甜菜根与 Shioga 甜菜根，精细的刀工展现 and nasturtium oil, white soy, and fresh yuzu juice 甜菜根切面宝石般的纹路，视觉效果十足。糖 finish it. The plate is enhanced with the addition of 渍黄甜菜为料里增添一抹明亮，与一旁经由乳 puréed Bull’s Blood beet and Shioga beet, which 酸发酵的深色腌萝卜形成对比。 is very finely sliced to display its jewel-like veins. Nurdin Topham 的烹调哲学中，最核心的 Candied yellow beet makes for a bright contrast 理念便是持续研究与开发。目前他有多项研究 alongside pickled white daikon radish that has been 计画，其中一项在与香港浸会大学的德国博士 lacto-fermented. 研究员合作，主要研究食物的疗效；另一项是 An essential part of Topham’s approach is 与目前位于哥本哈根的丹麦科学家合作，运用 never-ending research and development. Current 一个小型提炼场，为 NUR 餐厅提炼精油，旨 projects include the exploration of food as medicine 在完整收集在地植物的精油。 Nurdin Topham in collaboration with a German PhD researcher at 表示：「我们添加具有疗效的植物，如万寿菊 Hong Kong Baptist University. And a Danish scientist 和泰国罗勒，发酵也是与大自然合作的好方法。 from Copenhagen has been using a small distillery 我们有一间腌渍室，专门贮存非当季食材的腌 to help NUR build an entire library of local essen渍物。」 tial oils. “We are adding varieties with medicinal properties like marigold and Thai basil. Fermentation is another great way for An intriguing textural partnership of mackerel, beetroot, and nasturtium leaves us to work with nature. We also have a 鲭鱼、甜菜根、金线莲叶三者口感各异的搭配组合。 preserving room so we can stock outof-season items.”

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spring harvest

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In one of Nur’s nature-themed desserts, a house-made doughnut is filled with goji berry cream and seasoned roselle sugar. Vibrant strawberry juice starts with fruit from Zen, macerated with sugar or honey and cooked slowly in a sous vide bag for about an hour at low temperature. The surprise comes at the final stage when the product is infused with a little Thai basil. Begonia flowers add an acidic note, further accentuated by blossoms of pineapple sage. The handmade bowl in which the dessert is served, like all the tableware at NUR, was specially commissioned from Japanese potters based in Hong Kong. It reflects the simplicity of the restaurant’s interior design – sleek, casual, and filled with light. Eclectic seating of rattan, rush, and cushioned banquettes provides a comfortable background ambience that allows the food to star. NUR’s intimate size makes it possible to achieve exceptionally high standards of presentation, and the central open kitchen lets diners participate as spectators while Topham and his team assemble their exquisitely detailed plates. Even the restaurant’s two small terraces are put to use in service of the food. They are lush with herbs flourishing in tiered troughs, just waiting to be hand-picked for use in the kitchen seconds later. Like all else at NUR, they are part of a vision, an ongoing quest to find ever-more-creative ways to make food that is really good for you taste really good. As Topham puts it, “We continually seek inspiration and new ways of doing things.”

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这是 NUR 的自然风味甜点，中间是包有枸杞莓果奶油内馅的自制甜甜圈，添加洛神花糖浆；碗中鲜美的草莓汁混有来自「有心机农场」的水果，以糖浆或蜂蜜浸渍，采用真空低温烹调法处理一小时左右；最后加入的泰国罗勒让甜点充满惊喜，秋海棠花能增添一抹酸味，而凤梨鼠尾草则让酸味更为浓厚。 NUR 餐厅每一个碗盘都是手工制成，这个盛装甜点的碗

也不例外，委托位于香港的日本烧陶师傅制作，与餐厅内的极简风格装潢相互辉映。这里的装潢时尚、休闲感十足，且非常明亮，座位混搭各式藤椅、蔺草坐垫椅、软垫椅，创造舒适氛围，让食物成为餐厅的主角。 NUR 餐厅占地面积并不大，也因此能提供极高品质的服务。此外，开放式厨房让宾客能直接看到大厨与团队成员进行非常精细的摆盘作业。餐厅的两个小露台也都用来栽种食材，各种生气盎然的香草生长在多层土槽中，等待厨师待会前来采摘入菜。跟 NUR 所有的元素一样，这些香草也是 NUR 愿景的一部份，代

表他们对制作创意营养美食的坚持，如同 Nurdin Topham 所说：「我们致力于持续发掘灵感与新作法。」

Strawberries, goji berries, and roselle contribute their notes to a complex finale. 散发草莓、枸杞莓果、洛神花香气的甜点，为美食飨宴画下休止符。

ingredients

美味不外找

HyperLocal

Mamie Chen learns how a simple rooftop has been reinvented as a lush source of edible herbs at The Pawn.

At the age of 26, Tom Aikens became the youngest-ever British chef to earn two Michelin stars. Now the culinary director of The Pawn in Hong Kong, he says he was inspired to take up cooking in large part by the time he spent in his family’s garden growing up. “I was always interested in gardening, even as a kid. It was amazing—I learned to grow my own food and tasted things straight from the tree, off the bush, and out of the ground.” Childhood enthusiasm has matured into a keen appreciation of the rapidly developing worldwide phenomenon of urban rooftop farms and of all the benefits that even a small farm can bring to a restaurant. Among these are cost savings and convenience, shortening the farm-to-table trip to a few short steps. But what really delights Tom is the ability to grow rare varieties of vegetables and botanicals that suppliers can’t justify offering and to control the timing of when they are harvested and used. In terms of specialist herbs and edible flowers, The Pawn has become largely self-sufficient. “Some of our flowers are too fiddly for suppliers and would perish within days. We can also pick the smallest leaves or shoots that are very fresh, but very fragile. As a result, our garden yields a lot of different flavors that we can incorporate into our menu whenever we want.”

冰火豌豆 FIRE AND ICE PEAS Informed that a Google search for “fire and ice peas” nets zero results, Tom nods knowingly and replies, “There you go.” This rare plant does produce peapods, but it is generally prized for its flowers, leaves, and shoots. When used as a garnish, each one delivers the sweet taste of peas. Google「冰火豌豆」的搜寻结果一则都没有，Tom早已了然于心表示：「就说吧！」这个冷僻的豆种也会长豆荚，但经常使用的部位以花、叶子及芽为主，用以点缀菜色时，均能散发豌豆特有的香甜滋味。

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Tom Aikens 年仅 26 岁便摘下米其林两颗星的殊荣，为英国同世代青年厨师中达此成就的第一人，目前担任香港「The Pawn」餐厅餐饮总监。回想自己烹饪的启蒙，他归功于在家族庭园边玩边长大的那段日子：「我一直对园艺很有兴趣，从小就是如此。学着自己栽种食物，果物摘从树上，或在树丛采下，或刚从土里挖起来就直接品尝，那种感觉真的很奇妙。」孩提时期在自家庭园的美好回忆，让他能迅速投入近年于全球方兴未艾的顶楼菜园风潮，打从心底了解只消一小块农地，也能让餐厅受惠良多。诸多好处包括节省经费、便利性，让食材从农地到餐桌的距离，缩短成仅有几步之遥。以往供应商无法保证供量及收获，或相关运用难以管控的少见蔬菜及植物种类，现在都可以在餐厅菜园自行栽种，这让 Tom 特别开心。以特殊种植物及实用花来说，「The

Pawn」可说是近乎自给自足。「菜园有些花种太过细嫩，没几天就枯萎，让供应商敬而远之；但在这我们可以摘取小片树叶或嫩芽，虽然脆弱但保证新鲜。渐渐的，菜园的植物种类越来越多，各式味道扑鼻，随时可以因应菜单需求入菜。」

BRONZE FENNEL 紫茴香 Snippings of this uncommon herb garnish Tom’s starter of confit salmon, pomelo and grapefruit vanilla dressing. Bronze fennel’s anise taste is more intense and its texture stiffer than the common variety. It can add visual interest as well as flavor to all types of fish and many chicken and pork dishes too. Tom的前菜油封鲑鱼、柚子佐葡萄柚香草酱搭配了紫茴香这种罕见的植物，稍事点缀。紫茴香种大茴香相较一般品种味道更重、质地更硬，用于各式鱼肉料理，不仅可以增色，也能提升整体味道，也常见于许多鸡肉及猪肉菜色。

OXALIS TRIANGULARIS 三角紫叶酢浆草 Also known as a purple shamrock, this wood sorrel is an all-around edible plant whose leaves, roots, and flowers are used in small amounts either raw or cooked. The leaves are somewhat acidic, the roots crisp and juicy, the flowers mild and pleasing. Oxalis Triangularis属酢浆草家族，俗称三角紫叶酢浆草。它的叶子、根部到花从头到尾都可以吃，常少量作为生菜或烹煮后食用。叶子略带酸度，根部则带爽脆多汁的口感；酢浆花尝起来温和，味道相当舒服。

BASIL 巴西里 Basil, a workhorse herb used in countless dishes and a number of cocktails, is carried by many suppliers in several varieties. But by growing basil in their own garden, Tom and his team have the added liberty of being able to pick smaller leaves for intense flavor, while leaving others to grow for uses where quantity is called for. 巴西里为用量极大的植物种，出现在各大菜色及多种鸡尾酒，供应商总能提供数个不同品种。Tom及他的团队也在自家菜园种植巴西里，可以自由摘取味道较强的小片叶片，其余则放由继续成长，以供应平日的大量需求。

NASTURTIUM 旱金莲 Ranking among the most popular of edible flowers, nasturtium’s blossoms have a delicate taste, but its leaves are known for their peppery kick. Despite its widespread use, it isn’t typically available through suppliers, and restaurants must often guarantee a supply by growing their own. 旱金莲名列所有食用花中的人气王。花的味道特别细致，但叶子尝起来却带有强劲的呛味。尽管用途广泛，却少见于供应商的商品清单之上，餐厅通常会因应所需自行栽种。

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Owner and Executive Chef of Grassroots Pantry Peggy Chan 豆苗居创办人及行政总厨陈碧琪

tasting notes

素食新主张

Always Greener

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Chef Peggy Chan of Grassroots Pantry tells Barbra Austin why she wants to both nourish her customers and nurture a movement.

“We’re running a restaurant, but we’re also operating an educational platform,” says Chan. The lesson she strives to impart is simple: A plant-based diet of local and organic ingredients is good for you, good for the community, good for the planet. She is also determined to put to rest persistent notions that vegetarian food is boring or bland or unsatisfying. With Cordon Bleu training, expert technique, and a lot of imagination, Chan has succeeded in creating a plant-based cuisine that is consistently surprising, artful, and gratifying to both the senses and the appetite. “Most chefs just toss vegetables with some olive oil, salt, and pepper,” says Chan, “but we change them into many different forms – dehydrated, pickled, fermented – bringing every technique to the table. Many people are amazed to learn that you can make crackers from zucchini.” Most of her produce is supplied by Hong Kong’s own Zen Organic farm and Homegrown Foods, who strictly source their vegetables from organic farms in Hong Kong and China. The menu at Grassroots Pantry always reflects the current local growing season, and it’s part of Chan’s mission to acquaint greater numbers of Hong Kong diners with what is available right in their own backyard. “I don’t think most people even know what’s in season here. For example,” she explains, “salad greens are better in winter than summer, and strawberries grow in February. If I can create one meal that inspires someone to say, ‘Hey, vegetarian isn’t dull, it’s delicious,’ then I feel we’ve really accomplished something.”

ACV ME 苹果爽爽

Chan’s juices pack a nutritional wallop. The Liveraid combines pineapple, cucumber, spinach, green apple, and lemongrass with burdock root, which, Chan says, “helps flush toxins from your bloodstream. This is the kind of drink you’d down for a hangover.” The ACV ME is a bracing tonic of apple cider vinegar (“amazing for everything”) tempered with red delicious apple and a touch of maple syrup and finished with a dose of high-fiber psyllium husk. Even the cocktails are good for you: Chan’s garnet-colored watermelon daiquiri is a mix of strawberries, salad greens, medjool dates, mint, and lime, spiked with some Crop organic vodka. 陈总厨调制的饮品营养价值极高，混合凤梨、青瓜、菠菜、青苹果、香茅和牛蒡根的「净化」果汁就是最好的佐证。她说：「『净化』果汁有助于清除人体血液里的毒素，有护肝解酒的功用。」图中的苹果爽爽是能提振精神的苹果醋，对身体的益处多不胜数，以香甜红苹果和少许枫糖浆调味，再加上高纤维的洋车前子。只要是出总厨之手，鸡尾酒也变得裨益多多。石榴红色的西瓜台克里混合了草莓、绿叶蔬菜、椰枣、薄荷和莱姆，另加以农作物酿造的有机伏特加增添风味。

spring harvest

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Garden Vegetable Salad 田园蔬菜沙拉

For this vibrant composed salad, Chan uses “whatever we have, whatever’s available.” Right now, that means sweet cherry tomatoes, broccoli florets, peppery radishes, pickled beets and carrots, and micro sorrel. They’re planted in a bed of vegan ranch dressing made with an emulsification of sprouted cashews – silkier and smoother than the richest mayonnaise – and punched up with garlic, dill, and other fresh herbs. Some olive “soil” is strewn about for a salty textural element. 这道五彩缤纷的沙拉是总厨用「能有即能用」的新鲜蔬果做成的。现有食材包括甜樱桃蕃茄、绿椰菜花、辣菜根、腌甜菜和胡萝卜、小酸模，把它们通通铺在一层用萌芽腰果乳化成的纯素田园沙拉酱上，它的口感比最浓稠的美乃滋还要丝柔滑顺，再点缀以大蒜、莳萝和其他新鲜香草，最后把碎橄榄碾成泥土状匀洒在底层，赋予沙拉盐质一般的口感。

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tasting notes

Vietnamese Bún Chay 越式捞檬

The presentation is just as you’d find it at any good Vietnamese restaurant: A tangle of cold vermicelli is hidden beneath julienned carrot and cucumber and a pile of fresh basil and coriander. But not everything is as it seems. Instead of rice vermicelli, Chan employs a combination of kelp and shirataki noodles – the shirataki strands are soft, but the kelp noodles have an unexpected and delightful crispness. Cold noodle salads in the Vietnamese canon are usually served with grilled meat or spring rolls, but Chan features hedgehog mushrooms bathed in a honey and soy marinade before grilling. And although as a rule she celebrates vegetables in their own right rather than turning them into meat substitutes, here she confesses, “It’s amazing how similar the texture is to chicken.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

此菜式的外观与其他越式餐厅展示的并无两样：檬粉盘绕在碗底，铺放上胡萝卜丝、小黄瓜丝、一堆新鲜九层塔和香菜。但总厨的越式捞檬可藏有玄机：用的并非米粉，而是以海带丝和蒟蒻丝组成的混合面。蒟蒻丝软嫩，海带丝却意外地有脆劲，嚼起来十分畅快。按照越南的吃法，冷面沙拉通常会搭配烤肉或春卷，而总厨配的另选腌过蜂蜜酱油再经火烤的猴头菇。虽然总厨向来忠实于蔬菜原味的呈现，而不把它们视为肉的替代品，却也承认：「猴头菇的质地跟鸡肉真的好像啊！」

「我们经营的是餐厅，更是一个教育平台。」豆苗居创办人及行政总厨陈碧琪如是说。她致力推广的理念很简单：以当地有机食材组成对身体、社区、地球都有益的素食料理。很多人向来对素食的认知就是平淡、乏味、缺少满足感，这些都是总厨欲极力消弭的观念。凭借在蓝带厨艺学校的训练、精湛的专业技能与无穷的想像力，她成功设计出令人惊喜且艺术感十足的素食料理，让顾客的感官和胃口都得到满足。总厨表示：「多数厨师只会把蔬菜跟橄榄油、盐或者胡椒混在一起，而我们采用了不同的烹调方式 — 脱水、腌制和发酵，

十八般武艺全搬进厨房。顾客甚至惊讶于发现手中的饼干是用节瓜做的。」总厨使用的农产品多由香港 Homegrown Foods 和有心机农场供应，全部来自香港和中国的有机农庄。豆苗居的菜单按季节变动，让更多香港饕客了解在自己居住地有哪些当季食材也是大厨的任务之一。她解释道：「我认为只有少数人会对当季食材有所了解。比如说在冬天品尝绿叶蔬菜的味道要比夏天好，而草莓的生长季是在二月。如果我设计的餐点能让人感叹『噢，原来素食并非乏味，相反还很值得一试呢』，这会让我真的有大功告成的满足感。」 spring harvest

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用菜式说故事

Food Tells a Story One of Asia’s most talented chefs tells Chris Dwyer how her cuisine crosses cultures to blend art, craft, and science.

Chef and owner of Tate Dining Room & Bar Vicky Lau 主厨兼创办人刘韵棋

tasting notes

VICKY LAU needs a bigger mantelpiece. Following the award of her first Michelin star last year, she recently flew to Singapore to be named Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef 2015 at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. The critical and public acclaim comes as a result of her attention-getting cuisine at Tate Dining Room & Bar, an airily elegant restaurant in Hong Kong’s Soho district. One of the factors that sets Tate apart is the staff. “Not a lot of females are in kitchens these days, mostly they’re in pastry,” she says. “But we have a unique situation in our kitchen here – there are three times as many women as men.” She hopes her recognition will further the visibility of women in a profession that is still largely male-dominated. “These awards are good because the social value of women in the kitchen goes up,” says Lau, “and that in turn may encourage more women to go into the industry.’’ Thirty-four-year-old Lau was born and raised in Hong Kong, but she has also lived and studied in the U.S. and Thailand, a creative odyssey evident in the style and substance of her cuisine. She studied graphic design at prestigious NYU, but it was her time at Le Cordon Bleu in Bangkok which led her to pursue her fascination with food. With the Grand Diplôme and a stint at Michelin-starred Cépage in HK, she opened Tate in 2012. “A dish always starts internally because it must reflect yourself,” she says. “My thinking and my cuisine combine the two cultures.” Before going on to explain several of the imaginative dishes on Tate’s tasting menu, Lau explains her creative process: “I’m inspired by ingredients and seasons and I want to tell a story through food, creating new memories as well as connecting to past ones.” 刘韵棋需要更大的壁炉台了。自去年她获得第一颗米其林星星后，最近又飞往新加坡，获颁凯歌香槟亚洲 50 最佳餐厅系列奖项里的 2015 年亚洲最佳女厨师殊荣。为她赢得如此重大公开赞誉的，是她在香港苏活区开的餐厅 Tate Dining Room & Bar。餐厅风格轻快典雅，料理亦吸引了众多关注，而员工更是让 Tate 与众不同的原因之一。「现今在厨房工作的女性并不多，她们多数是做糕点。」她说。「但」我们的厨房十分特别 — 女性的数量是男性的三倍。有鉴于目前餐饮界仍由男性主导，她希望此次获奖能够提升女性在这个职业的能见度。「颁这些奖是好事，能够提升女性在厨房的社会价值，如此可望鼓励更多女性进入这一行。」她表示。

34 岁的刘韵棋是土生土长的香港人，曾在美国和泰国生活和求学，她料理的风格与食材的选择从她充满创意的人生经历中表露无遗。她原本在著名的纽约大学修读平面设计，直到在曼谷报读著名巴黎蓝带厨艺学院，才点燃她对食物的热情。在获得该校最高荣誉并在香港米其林餐厅 Cépage 工作

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

「任了一阵子之后，她在 2012 年开了自己的餐厅 Tate。她说：

Zen Garden pairs matcha tea opera cake, passion fruit marshmallow, jasmine macaroon, and coconut dark chocolate. “I love tea and its long culture and history,” says Lau. “In Japan you walk through a Zen garden to the room where they perform a kaiseki tea ceremony. It gives you a sense of reflection, which is why these petits fours are perfect at the end of a meal.” In a charming final touch, Lau places a miniature wooden rake alongside the elements of the garden, a gentle reminder that every dish truly tells a story. 禅园：集抹茶歌剧院蛋糕、百香果棉花糖、茉莉马卡龙、椰子

何一道料理都必定从内在出发，因为它能反映出你自己。我

黑巧克力于完美一身。「我爱茶及茶悠久的文化历史。在日本，

的思维和料理结合了这两种文化。」

你会经过禅园到一间他们行怀石料理茶道礼法的房间，让人有

在接着解释 Tate 品味菜单上各种天马行空的菜式前，刘

一种反思的感觉，这就是为何这四道小点心能为一餐画下美好

韵棋先说明她的创意发想过程：「我受到食材和佐料启发，想

句点。」最后的神来之举，是她将一个迷你木耙放在禅园各元

透过食物讲述一个故事，在创造新记忆的同时连结起过往回

素旁边，轻轻地提醒饕客，每道菜式都确实在讲述一段故事。

忆。」

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An Ode to Tomatoes took inspiration from a poem by Chilean poet Pablo Neruda that describes a busy market and a humble tomato within it. “Cooking is a combination of art, craft, and science,” says Lau. “The poem captures the essence of the fruit and the scene, and Neruda brings out the sense of respect he has for ingredients.” The dish features various textures of tomato as panna cotta, confit, crisp, consommé, and gelée, all accompanied by a Pommery mustard ice cream. 「番茄颂」的灵感来自智利诗人 Pablo Neruda 的作品，诗里描写出熙熙攘攘的市集与身在其中的一颗谦卑的蕃茄。刘主厨说：「烹饪是艺术、工艺、科学的集合。这首诗捕捉了水果与情景的精髓，

Neruda 笔下传递出他对食材的浓浓敬意。」这道菜式旨在呈现蕃茄的多种口感，以奶酪、油封、香脆、清炖、果冻的方式表现，并搭配芥茉籽酱冰淇淋。

“I always ate Maine lobster with roasted corn, typical summer food in the States. The tonka bean gives it a little more depth, an interesting flavor. The Chinese are big on yellow wine and it pairs perfectly with the lobster sauce.”

物 — 烤玉米。零陵香豆可赋予它多些层次与有趣的口感。中国人很喜欢喝黄酒，而黄酒与龙虾汁非常搭。」

TK | spring harvest

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「我吃美国缅因州龙虾的时候总是搭配美国的标准夏季食

tasting notes

spring harvest

TK |

逐梦场

Dream Theater At Bangkok’s award-winning restaurant, Gaggan, Mamie Chen discovers modern Indian food that is surprising, thought-provoking, and always dramatic.

tasting destination

CHEF GAGGAN ANAND makes a point of leaving his busy kitchen every night to tour his eponymous restaurant and chat with guests. But these are far from perfunctory hellos. One evening, when he learns from a group of diners that they are from the same part of India as his sous chef, Gaggan calls his colleague out for introductions. Then on the spot he offers to recreate their home region’s famous fish curry – with a Gaggan twist, of course. They are charmed. Gaggan may modestly credit the food as the true celebrity of his restaurant, which has been named the S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia 2015. But for many of his guests, meeting the famous chef is like seeing a childhood idol. Growing up, Gaggan had little thought of becoming a chef, but neither did he dare imagine success at his first love, the progressive music of bands like Pink Floyd and Dream Theater. In cooking Gaggan found an outlet for his creative self-expression. With what he terms his “progressive Indian cuisine” he has honed a culinary philosophy that fosters innovation and fulfills his desire to provide experiences that stimulate not only the senses, but also the mind and the heart. The first bite on every tasting menu is also the first progressive Indian dish that Gaggan ever created – “spherified” yogurt that may look like a bland soft-boiled egg, but bursts on the palate with a spicy tang. The idea sprang from his association with Ferran Adrià, chef/owner of elBulli and Gaggan’s mentor at the Alícia Foundation research department. “Ferran told me that Chef Gaggan Anand

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← Bites from Street Eats: chocolate pani puri 印度街头小吃: 巧克力酥球 SPRING HARVEST | TK |

tasting destination

TK | spring harvest

Gunpowder: fiery spiced Thai sea bass, curry leaf powder, basmati rice porridge, and tamarind sugar 火药: 劲辣的泰式海鱸魚、咖哩叶粉、印度辣香米粥和罗望子糖汁

Old Fashioned: Bourbon, pepper, and Cohiba cigar 经典风味: Bourbon、胡椒、Cohiba雪茄

Portuguese Connection: Iberian pork with vindaloo curry reduction 葡萄牙接觸: 伊比利亚猪肉、酸辣咖哩

Down to Earth: asparagus, morels, and artichoke soup with truffle

还有一种特殊的料理油－它需耗费六天的时间与相当复杂的工法才能完成萃取。 Gaggan 说：「前卫料理中主角是料理，而非科学技巧，我在西班牙 Alícia 科学料理研究所第一次看到元素周期表时，居然还拿反了！我完全无法说明白什么是分子料理 , 我们用餐时看得到分子吗？但是我可以跟你谈至少两百件有关前卫料理的事。」他采用的科学料理技巧包含球化、泡沫化技术，也使用液态氮，以保留食材的完整风味，让宾客品尝到最纯粹的原味。Gaggan 解构传统料理或创造全新的料理组合，挑战宾客对食材、风味、口感的既定印象。 Gaggan 现已是驰名全亚洲的顶尖大厨，正准备进一步发扬前卫料理：他计划打造个人的研究实验室，将他充满现代主义的厨技传授给其他厨师。餐厅中有道名为「木炭（Charcoal）」的料理，充分展现何谓现代主义，玻璃罩内放置一块冒烟的物体，上桌时戏剧感十足。此外，Gaggan 也将更动拼盘菜单的内容，加入更能混淆味觉期待的菜色，如愤怒鸟可能会成为一口料理，米饭蒸熟后被包在纸中，而米饭中包有少量咖哩鸡。他还想将知名的北印度红腰豆饭，改成糯米麻糬里面包咸咖哩酱。Gaggan 与其团队对每道菜会想出多种不同的作法，但最后只有一种会成功登上菜单。 Gaggan 笑道：「这可能会成功，也可能会失败。我总是在不断尝试，但我们现在有一整年的时间当第一名的宝座，所以现在便好好享受努力过程。」

芦笋、羊肚菌，以及松露朝鲜蓟汤

everyone was making his olives. What was I going to do with the technique that was different?” he recalls. “With this first dish, I had to convey my message in the simplest, most direct way. When you think of Spain, you think of olives. When you think of India, you think of yogurt. It’s our mother sauce.” Other bites and main courses that follow are equally successful in meeting Gaggan’s creative criterion: Does the dish provide interesting interplay between the “5S and 1T” factors of salt, sweet, sour, spice, surprise, and, above all, taste? One case in point is Gaggan’s variation on the popular street snack pani puri that replaces the traditionally deep-fried, flourbased puri shell with a hollow bonbon of white chocolate. The silky sweetness on the outside makes for an unexpected counterbalance to the pani filling inside, a pungent mixture of coriander, mint, chili, and lemon herb juice. Slow-cooked chicken in a spiced Chettinad-style curry, whimsically named Angry Bird, features impossibly tender meat simmered in a deeply aromatic sauce. Much of its flavor comes from a special oil that requires six days, and many complications, to extract. “I call it progressive cuisine, and it’s all about the food, not the science,” says Gaggan. “The first time I saw a periodic table at the Alícia Foundation, I held it

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曼谷知名餐厅 Gaggan 的印籍大厨 Gaggan Anand 坚持每晚在百忙中抽空走出厨房，巡视餐厅各角落，并与客人闲话家常。有天晚上，Gaggan Anand 跟一群宾客聊天，得知他们跟餐厅副主厨是同乡，便将副主厨引见予宾客，并当场烹制出一道他们家乡最出名的鱼肉咖哩，其中当然少不了一展 Gaggan 的独有特色，成功深深打动宾客。 Gaggan 餐厅荣登 2015 年 S.Pellegrino 亚洲最佳餐厅，虽然 Gaggan 大厨可能会谦称，说名气最大的应属美味的料理；但对于宾客而言，Gaggan 是他们的偶像，能看见他就与大厨碰到心目中的超级偶像时的感觉相当。 Gaggan 从不敢想象自己最热爱的前卫摇滚乐团，如 Pink Floyd 和 Dream Theater 乐团会如此成功；但他在料理世界中也找到了自我表现的方式，并不是 19 分钟的音乐环节，而是长达一小时的印度美味发现之旅。他透过「前卫印度料理」，奉行追求创新的料理哲学，让用餐不仅是激发感官的体验，更能启发心灵。每份拼盘菜单的第一道菜，都是 Gaggan Anand 独创的前卫印度料理，如「球化优格」：看似普通的水煮蛋，入口后却迸出香劲辣味。这些灵感来自于他与 Ferran Adrià 共事的经验。Ferran Adrià 是知名分子餐厅「斗牛犬」（El Bulli）的创办人，也是 Gaggan Anand 在西班牙 Alícia 料理科学研究所研究部门的导师。Gaggan Anand 说：「Ferran 曾对我说，料理橄榄，每个人都有自己的一套方法，我又将如何与别不同呢？对于第一道菜，我必须以最简单直接的方式传达自己的意念。一提到西班牙，你会想到橄榄；一提到印度，你会想到优格。这是我们最重要的基础酱汁。」而拼盘菜单其他的小菜与其后的主菜，同样符合 Gaggan 的创新标准：每道菜都必须让料理中的 5S 与 1T 达到趣味洋溢的平衡，包含咸度（salt）、甜度（sweet）、酸度（sout）、辣度（spice）、惊喜程度（surprise），还有最重要的风味（taste）。一个绝佳的例子是 Gaggan 版本的 Pani puri 脆饼：这有别于传统作法，Gaggan 改用空心的白巧克力酥饼，外壳是丝滑香甜的巧克力，内馅则混合芫荽、薄荷、辣椒、柠檬草叶，辛香味十足，是让人完全意想不到的组合。此外，菜单上有名为「愤怒鸟」的玩味菜式，是细火慢炖的印度咖哩鸡，使用极嫩无比的鸡肉，加入香气扑鼻的香料一起炖煮。

tasting destination

upside down! I can’t tell you a thing about molecular cuisine – do we see molecules when we eat? But I can tell you two hundred things about progressive cuisine.” Techniques employing spherification, foam, and liquid nitrogen allow guests to taste the pure, essential flavors of specific ingredients with minimal dilution. Deconstructions of classic dishes or startling new juxtapositions challenge diners to question their preconceptions about ingredients and tastes and textures. Having achieved recognition across Asia, Gaggan now has renewed confidence to push the progressive envelope much further. He has plans to build his own research lab where he’ll be able to coach other chefs in his modernist approach, typified by one of his more provocative dishes. Called Charcoal, it’s a smoky lump under a glass dome, served dramatically and with no explanations. Gaggan also plans to revamp the tasting menus to feature even more bites that confound all expectations. Angry Bird may be turned into a single bite, a wrapper standing in for the steamed rice and encasing a morsel of chicken and curry. He has ideas for a take on the famous North Indian red kidney bean and rice dish, rajma chawal, perhaps turning it into a glutinous rice mochi with salty curry gel inside. He and his team will work out five to ten possibilities for each idea, but only one can make it to the menu. “It might be a hit, it might be a miss,” Gaggan muses. “I’m always taking risks, but we have a whole year to be number one, so let’s enjoy the show.” ↑ Interior of Gaggan’s whitewashed colonial-style wooden house Gaggan 充满殖民时代风格的白色外观与内在装潢 ↖

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Japanese Connection: white asparagus, spicy miso, yuzu chutney, and miso sesame chips 日本接触：白芦笋、辣味噌、柚子甜酸酱与味噌芝麻洋芋片 ← Bites from Street Eats: potato 2-some-crispy and liquid 印度街头小吃: 酥脆馬鈴薯，用馬鈴薯做成鳥巢，配上酸辣醬汁

spring harvest

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TK | SPRING HARVEST

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presented by galaxy macau

春色盛宴

food in bloom Chef Suonggi You takes his cue from the flora of the season to create colorful Korean specialties at Myung Ga.

眼见春季百花盛开、绿芽处处，厨师们 IN SPRING, when leaves sprout and flowers blossom every无不想将这般绚丽多彩的大自然视觉飨 where, their spectacular colors are sure to inspire chefs to 宴融入到料理当中。「澳門銀河 ™」顶 bring the visual elements of nature into the kitchen. And 级韩式餐厅 — 名家的总厨柳城基便深受 Chef de Cuisine Suonggi You of Myung Ga, Galaxy Macau’s 启发。他说：「连翘花是我认为世界上最 premier Korean restaurant, is filled with inspiration: “One of 美的花之一，看到鲜黄色就让人感到快 the most beautiful flowers in the world to me is forsythia. 乐。」 Glowing yellow is a color that just makes people happy.” 为了将这温暖的感受带进料理之 To translate that warm feeling into something eminently 中，总厨设计了名为蛋包虾的菜式，就 edible, Chef You prepares a dish called Saewoo Jeon, a type 是用面粉和蛋黄包覆鲜虾，再用平底锅 of savory Korean pancake made of shrimp coated with flour 油煎的美味韩式煎饼，黄澄澄的外观恰 and egg yolk and then panfried. The appealing result recalls 如连翘花的暖黄色调，甫一入 the golden tones of forsythia, and the taste BY 口身心即刻愉悦起来。总厨说： definitely produces happiness. “This dish is excelIRENE SAM 「这道菜很适合派对上吃。韩 lent at parties,” says You. “Koreans love to eat 国人最爱吃这个配烧酒，一边 it accompanied by their favorite spirit, soju, with PHOTOGRAPHY BY 感受锅里的鲜虾煎饼持续散发 the heat from the pan still radiating from the JASON BONELLO 出来的热气。」 shrimps.” 海里的植物则成为海草杂 The foliage of the sea becomes the stimu锦拌饭的灵感来源。海草杂锦拌饭是一 lus for Haecho Bibimbap, a rice dish with fried seaweed and 种混合米饭、炸海藻和蔬菜的料理，红 vegetables, bright with hues of green and red. Marine algae 绿相间，色彩缤纷；而且海藻不仅美味， are prized not only for flavor, but also for nutritional benefits. 还极富营养。总厨强调：「许多海藻都含 “Various seaweeds are high in mineral content,” remarks 有很高的矿物质成分，所以韩国人想打 You, “so Koreans often eat them when they think they 起精神来的时候常常吃海带，他们认为 need a tonic. It’s considered a delicious way to improve the 这是透过吃美食来增进健康。」他将五颜 health.” The chef scatters seaweeds in a range of colors over 六色的海藻洒在盘子上，解释道：「我首 the dish. “I first want to captivate the eyes of diners with 先要以大自然之美来吸引饕客的目光， the beauty of nature,” explains You. “Then, when the chili 等他们将辣椒酱和饭拌在一起，一阵强 paste is mixed with the rice, the fiery spiciness kicks in to 烈的辣感冲上来带出海藻的鲜味，整个 bring out the flavors of the seaweed—the taste is enhanced 味道一下子就出来了。」 exponentially.”

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Saewoo Jeon: Panfried Shrimps with Egg 蛋包虾

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Chef de Cuisine Suonggi You 总厨柳城基

 Haecho Bibimbap:

Rice with Fried Seaweed and Vegetables 海草杂锦拌饭

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spring harvest

TK |

presented by galaxy macau

春季「新」鲜味

spring arrivals Lugang Cafe at Galaxy Macau takes all the best the season has to offer and creates fresh Taiwanese selections, from simple to sublime.

「澳門銀河 ™」鹿港小镇总厨魏建东喜欢用 WORKING WITH THE INGREDIENTS that are precisely at 当季盛产的食材入菜，发挥绝妙美味，可谓 their peak to create dishes that are unforgettable is what 是令人难以忘怀的拿手好戏。问到这个季节 Chef de Cuisine Wei Jian Dong enjoys doing most. “There’s 吃什么好，总厨表示：「现在品尝罗非鱼正 no better time than now to savor Tilapia, since springtime 当时，时序进入春天，刚好是产卵季，鱼只 is when these fish are producing eggs,” he says. “That 特别肥美，鱼肉味道之丰富，也是一年之最。 means they grow fat and their flesh is far more flavorful 罗非鱼很多地方吃得到，但在『鹿港小镇』， than at any other time of year. While Tilapia is commonly 我们就有办法用这个普通食材创造『不寻 eaten in many places around the world, we have our 常』的美味」。 own very uncommon way of preparing it here at Lugang 总厨的秘诀一点都不复杂，鱼肉用盐 Cafe.” 腌渍 48 小时后下平底锅煎至酥脆、恰到好 His secret is to marinate the fish in salt for forty处即可。起锅后鱼肉多汁、味 eight hours and then perfectly pan roast it. The BY 道丰厚、口感扎实又饱满。他 result is succulent, with full flavor and a firm, IRENE SAM 分析：「简单就能带出最棒的味 meaty texture. “Simplicity brings out the best 道，屡试不爽，即使是创意料 in almost everything, but when we want to PHOTOGRAPHY BY 理或是展现繁复技巧的大菜， get really creative and show off some complex JASON BONELLO 也能用『简单』这道理一以贯 dishes, we do that too,” he says, displaying his 之。」说话当下总厨也没闲着， pineapple-and-shrimp-stuffed fritters. 忙着排列凤梨虾球摆盘。 Lusciously fresh shrimp and pieces of ripe pineapple 只见鲜美的虾子及熟成凤梨片摆在一 are placed together, covered in batter, and gently fried 块，沾上面糊后迅速过炸，面衣酥薄清脆， to produce the crispiest coating imaginable. The deep 无可挑剔。虾子散发来自大海的鲜味，与 umami taste of the seafood complements the sweet and 水果甜酸各半的味道完美交融，绝对是让 sour notes of the fruit, and together the combination 人入齿不忘的美味飨宴。「凤梨的酸呛衬托 makes for a truly satisfying flavor event. “The tartness of 炸物丰富的层次感，入口后一点都不腻。 the pineapple offsets the richness of the crunchy deep当味蕾经历过酸味的洗荡，你会迫不及待 fried layer, so the taste is always light. And as soon as 想要再咬一口鲜嫩的虾肉。」总厨笑着说： the acidity clears your palate, you crave another bite of 「这组合有致命的吸引力，饕客似乎也乐此 shrimp. The pairing is addictive,” he smiles, “and diners 不疲，对于各式不同的食材混搭总是跃跃 just seem to get hooked on enjoying the various ele欲试。」 ments over and over.”

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TK | spring harvest

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Pan-roasted Tilapia Fish 葱烤罗非鱼

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Pineapple and Shrimps Stuffed in Crullers 菠萝油条虾

 Chef de Cuisine Wei Jian Dong

总厨魏建东

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SPRING HARVEST | TK |

the royal touch NAAM, Macau’s first Thai restaurant in a five-star establishment, lavishly reinterprets the cuisine of the monarchs of Siam.

TK | spring harvest

PAIROJ KAOROPWONGCHAI, Executive Thai Chef at Grand Lapa Macau’s premier restaurant, NAAM, elevates authentic Thai dishes to the heights of regal style. “I learned everything about Thai Royal cuisine from a master chef who worked in the king’s palace,” says Chef Pairoj, meticulously carving a carrot as garnish for one of his creations. “But it was my mother who first inspired me to cook.” Thai Royal cuisine, the chef explains, is quite different from the everyday dishes eaten in homes all across the land. Bowls of tom yum goong and green curry also pass the lips of kings, but there are significant enhancements in the way the food is prepared and served. “It’s all about the aesthetics,” he says. “Fruits and vegetables are served with no pits, stones, or peels, and everything is elaborately carved. Only the best and freshest ingredients are used and there are never extremes in flavor, but rather a perfect balance of hot, sour, salty, and sweet.” Such flawless execution and immaculate presentation are evident in the chef ’s Ma Hor. Literally translated “galloping horses,”

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皇家品味

presented by grand lapa macau

↑ Panaeng Gar Yang: Grilled Lamb Chop with Panaeng Curry Sauce 泰王式咖喱烤澳洲羊架 ← Salmon Sa Mun Pai: Baked Salmon accompanied by Siam Herbs and Roasted Chili Tomato Sauce 烤腌三文鱼伴香草辣椒酱 ↙ Ma Hor: Caramelized Peanut Pickle Turnip Ball on Fruits 焦糖花生萝卜蓉伴鲜果

Executive Thai Chef Pairoj Kaoropwongchai

the appetizer is said to be named in honor of King Rama VII’s expert equestrian skills. Instead of the traditional pork, Chef Pairoj uses peanuts caramelized with palm sugar, garlic, coriander root, white pepper, shallots, onion, and pickled turnip. The aromatic balls rest atop beautifully carved sections of pineapple, rose apple, orange, and dragon fruit. “The saltiness of the fish sauce and the sourness and sweetness of the fruit make a great flavor combination,” he says. Other dishes prepared with the royal touch include Panaeng Gar Yang (grilled lamb chop with panaeng curry sauce) and Salmon Samunpai (baked salmon with Siam herbs and roasted chili tomato sauce). “Panaeng curry is usually served with chicken or beef – using lamb is our signature,” says Chef Pairoj. “And the salmon baked in banana leaf was created for King Rama V and became one of his favorites. I love using a range of techniques. Thai food has rich traditions that are only enhanced by using modern methods. To me it’s really more than just cooking – I craft each dish from my heart.”

行政泰厨朱白龙

朱白龙（Pairoj Kaoropwongchai）在澳门金丽华酒店的灆泰国菜餐厅担任行政泰厨，将道地的泰国菜提升到皇室层次，他表示：「我跟随一位师傅学习泰国皇室料理，他曾经在皇宫服务过。」，说话时他正在准备料理的缀饰，一边精雕细琢着手上的胡萝卜，一边说：「而最初启发我走进料理界的则是我的母亲。」朱白龙说明，泰国皇室的菜色与一般平民家常菜并无太大的差异，国王也会吃鲜虾酸辣汤和绿咖喱，但是料理的准备与呈现方式则非常不一样。他指出：「一切取决于美感：蔬果不能带核、子或皮，而且每样食材都需经过精细雕刻，只能使用最新鲜上等的食材，口味则属于中庸路线，不会太辣、太咸或太酸。」朱白龙所作的凉拌料理 Ma Hor，充分体现这种毫无瑕疵的制作过程以及精致完美的摆盘。Ma Hor 可直译为「奔腾的骏马」，

用以纪念泰国拉玛七世精湛的马术。传统的 Ma Hor 使用猪肉，而朱白龙则改用以棕榈糖制作的焦糖花生，与大蒜、香菜根、白胡椒、红葱、洋葱、腌萝卜混合，香气四溢，分别置于雕刻成小巧精致形状的凤梨、蜜苹果、橘子、火龙果上方，主厨说：「鱼露的咸味与水果的甜味，混合出绝佳的美妙滋味。」其他以皇室规格制作的菜色包括泰王式咖喱烤澳洲羊架（Panaeng Gar Yang）和烤腌三文鱼伴香草辣椒酱（Salmon Samunpai），朱白龙表示：「泰王式咖喱通常会搭配鸡肉或牛肉，而我们的特色则是选用羊肉作为配搭：香蕉叶烤鲑鱼是专门为拉玛五世所创的菜色，后来成为他最爱吃的菜。我喜欢使用多样的烹煮技法，我想透过现代化的技巧来提升菜肴的层次，对我来说这不仅仅只是做菜，每一道菜都是我费心雕琢的作品。」 spring harvest

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珍馐配佳酿

promising pairs Noteworthy and unusual pairings from the menu and wine list at Belon lead to some interesting – and irresistible – conclusions.

presented by banyan tree macau

Robby Setiawan, Executive Sous Chef in Charge of Banyan Tree Culinary, and Andy Tam, Assistant Beverage Manager, collaborate to offer their discerning and skilled wine pairing suggestion for some best-loved dishes and new promotional selections at Belon. Moving away from the ubiquitous Chardonnays and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, they boldly explore other notable varieties that balance or enhance the flavors and textures of the food in sometimes surprising ways. 在悦榕庄厨师长石志云师傅与餐饮部副经理谭颖恒的合作下，贝隆餐厅为许多热门料理与新推出精选菜式精心搭配美酒。他们不选随处可见的夏多内和纽西兰白苏维翁，却大胆尝试其他知名酒款，反而更能平衡与提升食材的风味与质感。

White Shrimp Cocktail with an Argentine Torrontés 鸡尾酒汁配甜白虾佐阿根廷多隆蒂丝白酒 Plump white shrimp from Thailand perch on the edge of a hollowed-out tart green apple filled with homemade cocktail sauce and roasted almonds. Marinated olives stuffed with almonds add a creamy element that contrasts with the succulent shrimp and crisp apple. Torrontés is an intriguing wine with a sweet tropical fruit bouquet, but a dry, crisp taste on the palate. Made from a white grape that thrives in the cold, windswept conditions of the northwest Argentine region of Salta, Torrontés has high acidity and assertive flavors that make it a refreshing accompaniment for a savory cold dish like seafood cocktail.

Fresh Oyster Platter with Blanc de Blancs Champagne 鲜蚝拼盘佐白中白香槟 Chef Robby presents oysters on the half shell with fresh lemon and a trio of sauces ranging from light to pungent: a raspberry mignonette with freshly ground black pepper and shallots, a green chili and lime chutney-like combination, and a Cognac-laced cocktail sauce made with tomato, Tabasco, and horseradish. The Blanc de Blancs Champagne is a noble dry wine with a lighter, somewhat citrusy flavor and high acidity, an ideal foil for the rich but delicate complexities of the oysters. The Chardonnay grapes are grown in mineral-rich soil and lend the Champagne a chalky quality that accentuates the brininess of the shellfish.

饱满的泰国白虾攀附在挖空的绿苹果边上，苹果空心处满溢着餐厅特制的鸡尾酒酱与炭烤杏仁。

出自石志云师傅之手的半壳生蚝佐新鲜柠檬，搭配口味从清淡至呛辣

腌橄榄填充杏仁，增添了与肥美虾肉和脆苹果截

的三种酱料：覆盆子木犀草与现磨黑胡椒搭配火葱、绿辣椒混合莱姆

然不同的柔滑口感。

酸辣酱，以及由蕃茄、塔巴斯哥辣酱和辣根制成的干邑白兰地鸡尾酒

多隆蒂丝是一款奇妙的白酒，有着热带水

DAVID HARTUNG

果的甜美芳香，却在味蕾上留下又干又脆的尾韵。

酱。白中白香槟是一款不带甜味的高贵葡萄酒，风味较淡、带点柑橘

多隆蒂丝白葡萄生长于阿根廷西北寒冷多风的萨

味，酸度甚高，非常适合陪衬生蚝丰富但精致繁复的味道。夏多内葡

尔塔区，酸度高，风味鲜明，为海鲜拼盘等开胃

萄生长在富含矿物质的土壤中，因而赋予香槟一种白垩土质的口感，

冷盘最清爽的佐餐佳品。

更加凸显出贝类的海味。

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Oven-baked Scottish Oysters Rockefeller with Pouilly-Fumé 烘烤苏格兰鲜蚝洛克菲勒佐普依芙美白酒

A little salty, a little creamy, a little cheesy – the wonder of Chef Robby’s Oysters Rockefeller lies in his expert ability to highlight the bacon’s smokiness with the sharp, nutty notes in the Parmesan cheese without overpowering the oysters’ fresh and subtle sea flavor. The Pouilly-Fumé is made purely from Sauvignon Blanc grapes and carries the Loire Valley’s flinty minerality. Its citrusy hints of lime, lemon, and grapefruit help to counterbalance the interwoven layers of robust flavors in the dish. And the wine’s elevated acidity cleanly cuts through the rich creaminess of the cheese and béchamel sauce. 有点咸、有点奶油、有点起司。石志云师傅鲜蚝洛克菲勒的美妙之处，在于他以精湛的厨艺，用帕马森起司清晰的坚果味来凸显培根的烟熏味，却未因此掩盖鲜蚝的鲜甜与幽微的海味。普依芙美白酒纯由白苏维翁葡萄酿制而成，带有法国卢瓦尔谷的硬质矿石气味。酒里的柑橘香隐含了莱姆、柠檬、葡萄柚香，能够与料理层层交织的口感相抗衡。葡萄酒的高酸度则可中和富含奶油味的起司与白酱所带来的浓香感。

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presented by banyan tree macau

Lava Stone Grilled USDA Prime Beef Skewers with Cabernet Franc “ 活山石香烤 ” 美国特级牛肉串佐品丽珠红酒 Bite-size morsels of prime beef and bell peppers on lemongrass skewers are grilled over hot lava stones. The dripping meat juices sizzle on the underlying stone and aromatize the beef with a shade of smokiness echoed by the charred and faintly bitter leek ash that dusts the grilled onions. Sweet potato shoestring fries add a satisfyingly crunchy contrast to the tender meat and vegetables. The Cabernet Franc is a mediumbodied and youthful red wine that doesn’t require decanting. It carries discernible hints of black fruit, bell peppers, and green vegetables and makes an apt match for the skewers. 一口大小的极品牛肉块与甜椒香茅串在热石上炙烤，滴下的肉汁在下方石板上滋滋作响，飘出缕缕灰烟，熏着上方的牛肉块，与烤洋葱上焦黄、带点苦味的韭葱末互相呼应。细长的炸番薯条与软嫩的肉块和蔬菜形成强烈对比，增添一抹令人心满意足的吮指酥脆。品丽珠红酒为一款中等酒体的年轻红酒，饮用时不须醒酒，隐约散发出黑果、甜椒、绿色蔬菜的香气，是串烧的理想配搭。

Transmontanus, White Sturgeon and Classic Accoutrements with Blanc de Noirs Champagne 白鲟鱼子酱与经典配菜佐黑中白香槟

Glistening White Sturgeon caviar berries lie nestled in their tin, surrounded by the traditional accompaniments of sour cream, shallots, chives, and hard-boiled egg. With a mother-of-pearl spoon to protect the delicate flavor, they are gingerly scooped onto billowy blini or crisp Melba toast and garnished as desired. Purists may savor the unadorned roe directly from the back of the hand, warmed to body temperature to release its bouquet and enhance the salty and marine mineral tastes. Belon features some smaller production Blanc de Noirs Brut Grower Champagnes with a fuller, riper flavor that are able to balance the caviar’s buttery texture and make the most of its flavor complexities. 光泽晶莹的白鲟鱼子酱粒粒整齐地排在锡罐内，周围摆上酸奶油、火葱、韭菜、水煮蛋等传统配菜，然后用珍珠母汤匙包覆这精致珍品，将它小心翼翼地舀到起伏的薄饼

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

上或梅尔巴吐司上，任君点缀。崇尚天然味的饕客可直接品尝手背上未经修饰的鱼子酱：鱼子酱经体温温热后散发出阵阵香气，更添自然咸味与海水矿味。贝隆餐厅建议搭配某些较少出品的黑中白天然酒农香槟，口感更见饱满成熟，可平衡鱼子酱如奶油般的质地，充分带出它的繁复风味。

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presented by mandarin oriental, macau

再度寻味葡式美馔

portuguese encore Guest chef José Avillez returns to Vida Rica at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, bringing his exciting and locally inspired interpretations of Portuguese cuisine.

JASON BONELLO (2)

“COMING FROM PORTUGAL, we of course

have the connection to Macau – the history, the people,” said José Avillez, chef of Belcanto, his own Michelin two-star restaurant in Lisbon. “That was the most special thing for me and made me want to come back.” After a successful debut as guest chef in July 2014, Avillez returned to Vida Rica for three exclusive nights in March. Diners were treated to a specially conceived set lunch and degustation dinner menu, featuring such dishes as veal cheek with corn porridge and Périgord truffle, bacalhau “pot-au-feu” with Portuguese sausage, and pork terrine with green pea purée, grapes, and egg. “Most of the menu was created just for this event,” said Avillez. “I got my inspiration from my last visit to Macau. I started to understand a bit more of the tastes here. I don’t try to do Macanese or Chinese food, because I don’t know how to do it. What I try to do is bring Portuguese food, and in particular, my Portuguese food.” Avillez, acclaimed as one of the greats among Portugal’s chefs, believes it is important to reestablish links with his homeland’s former colonies. “In Portugal we don’t know a lot about Macanese cuisine or even the history or story of Macau,” he said. “Portugal used to be a huge empire with lots of

米其林星级名厨 José Avillez 表示：「我是葡萄牙人，当然跟澳门，澳门历史和澳门人，有很深的缔结。这样的渊源对我来说十分特别，所以我渴望再度踏足澳门。」他在葡萄牙里斯本开设的 Belcanto 餐厅荣获米其林二星殊荣。 2014 年 7 月，José Avillez 首次受邀至澳门文华东方酒店御苑餐厅担任客座主厨，广受好评。今年三月，José Avillez 再度造访澳门，推出三天限定的午晚餐盛宴，宾客可享用 José Avillez 大厨特制的美味佳肴，包含细炖牛颊肉搭玉米粥佐法国佩里哥黑松露、鳕鱼汤佐葡式猪肠和猪肉冻佐青豆蓉、葡萄与蛋。 José Avillez 说：「大部分菜色都是专门为此次活动而设计，灵感来自于去年的澳门之行，那次来访让我逐渐掌握到当地人的口味。我不会去做澳门菜或中国菜，因为我不懂，但是我会做葡萄牙菜，而且是带有我个人风格的葡萄牙菜。」 José Avillez 被誉为最优秀的葡萄牙厨师之一，他认为应重新建立葡萄牙与先前殖民地的连结，而澳门便曾是葡萄牙的殖民地。他指出：「葡萄牙人对于澳门菜并不了解，甚至也不懂澳门的历史。我们曾经是版图广大的强盛帝国，拥有过许多殖民地，但现在只能算是个美丽的欧洲小国；然而我们不能遗忘过去，不能遗忘历史，谈论料理时更是如此，身为厨师，必须尽力维护这种历史连结。」

Crabmeat with yogurt curry in a seaweed cone, cold white lupin bean soup with citrus cream. 蟹肉淋上优格咖喱，以海苔卷成圆锥状，佐以乳白色的羽扇豆冷汤，汤品表层以柑橘奶油点缀。

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Chef Avillez’s pork terrine with green pea purée, grapes, and egg offers a range of tastes and textures. “There’s a sweetness and an acidity which gives every mouthful a different bite.” José Avillez主厨制作的这道猪肉冻佐青豆蓉、葡萄与蛋，口感质地非常丰富。他指出：「其中混有甜味与酸味，每一口的滋味都不一样。」

colonies but now we have been reduced to a great but very small country. It is important, especially when we are talking about food, that we don’t forget the past, don’t forget the history. For a cook it’s very important to maintain this contact.” While Portugal’s cuisine has had a major influence on many of the nation’s former colonies, Avillez acknowledges that it is rare for traditional techniques and dishes from these far-flung places to make it back to the mother country. “We’re not used to doing that in Portugal,” he said. “Over the last few years I’ve started to bring back influences from other countries, because these days products can go anywhere. It’s really important for me to maintain my identity as a Portuguese but at the same time to be influenced by the old colonies.” Working in collaboration with Dominique Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage at Mandarin Oriental,

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Macau, Avillez took over the helm for his three-night stay. “I have 160 people working with me in Portugal and I command them all – I’m used to that. Here it’s different, it’s not your team, it’s a team that’s ready for you, ready to work with you, but it’s different, because you need to get to know them first,” he said. “I have people that I’ve worked with for ten years and sometimes you don’t need to say anything, you just have to give a look and they’ll know what to do. Here the language is difficult and puts a lot of pressure on me. It’s hard to command a team that’s not yours. I have a way of doing things, and a way I want people that I’m working with to do things. I’m a perfectionist, so I need to be in control. I try to keep calm, but of course there is pressure.” Pressures aside, Avillez recognizes that being a guest chef in an unfamiliar locale is a great opportunity for gaining new insights. “Especially here where it’s another

culture, you see things done in completely different ways, so you learn a lot,” he said. “I am warmly welcomed here at Mandarin Oriental, which makes things so much easier. Chef Dominique has been working closely with me, and he’s the person who connects everything and all of us in the kitchen.” The second time around is easier, he admits: “Last year I came with my sous chef – my right arm – and this year, two younger cooks, because I know people this time. It’s easier to communicate, I know the kitchen, and they know my style. My cooking style is hard to put into one sentence. It’s French technique with Portuguese soul. Everything I do is influenced by my life so far – my travels, my mother’s food, my grandmother’s food, the places I’ve worked, the places I’ve eaten, the places I’ve visited, the Portuguese landscape, the Portuguese people – it’s a mix of all of that.”

presented by mandarin oriental, macau

JASON BONELLO (3)

葡萄牙料理对于许多前殖民地具有深厚的影响，然而，José Avillez 表示，这些遥远国度的传统料理方式与美食却很少进入葡萄牙。他说：「这在葡萄牙很罕见，过去数年来，因为现代物流十分便利，我开始将其他国家的料理元素带入葡萄牙。保有国家认同，同时吸收来自旧殖民地的元素，对我来说是非常重要的事。」此次的三天盛宴，由 José Avillez 掌厨，与澳门文华东方酒店的厨艺及餐饮总监贝铭乐携手合作，他表示：「在葡萄牙我有一个 160 人的团队，听从我一人发号施令，我已经习惯了。但这里可不一样，这不是你的团队，虽然他们都准备好与你共事，但还是不一样，你得先好好认识团队的成员才行。在我的团队里，有些人与我共事超过十年，有时候只要一个眼神，他们就知道该做什么。而在这里，首先语言隔阂就是个障碍，让我倍感压力：在陌生的团队中发号施令并不容易，我有自己的做事方法，也希望跟我共事的人能按照我的方法做事。我是凡事要求完美的人，这点必须自制，我尽力保持冷静，但当然压力还是不小。」

For a traditional Portuguese “pot-au-feu,” Avillez uses the throat of the Alentejo pig from the country’s South-Central region. “It’s especially fatty and has an incredible flavor.” José Avillez呈现传统葡萄牙汤品，使用产自葡萄牙中南部亚兰德罗（Alentejo）的猪喉肉，他指出：「这个部位油份特别高，滋味不同凡响。」

Low-temperature-smoked egg yolk, pea stew purée, pancetta, and Périgord truffle. “The smokiness of the egg along with the pea stew purée and truffle give the dish a real earthy flavor,” says Avillez. 低温烟熏的蛋黄，加上炖青豆泥、未烟熏的培根以及法国佩里哥黑松露。 José Avillez 说明：「蛋的烟熏味、炖青豆泥和黑松露让这道料理充满大地风味。」

除去压力不谈，José Avillez 表示，在陌生的环境担任客座厨师是个很棒的经验，令人大开眼界，「特别是这里的文化与我所认知的完全不同，让你能从全新的角度看待事物，因此可以学到很多。文华东方酒店对我十分礼遇，一切都非常顺利，我跟总厨贝铭乐密切合作，他在厨房里扮演所有人和事物的桥梁。」 José Avillez 坦言，相较于去年，这次再度到澳门担任客座厨师，一切都顺利许多。他说：「去年我带了自己的副主厨，他就像是我的左右手一般：而今年，我只带了两个年轻厨师，因为我对这里的团队更熟悉了，沟通起来比较轻松，而他们也了解我的要求。我的料理风格实在是一言难尽，简单来说就是以法式厨艺技术展现葡萄牙精髓与灵魂，我创作的所有菜色都是来自生活经验的启发，包含旅游经验、母亲与祖母的家常菜、以前曾经工作过的地方、曾去过的餐厅、曾造访过的景点、葡萄牙的风景和人文等等，我把这些经验全部融入于料理当中。」 spring harvest

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Milanese Style Saffron Risotto, Roasted Langoustine in Gremolata and Veal Juice 番红花意大利饭伴小龙虾及牛仔肉汁

presented by altira macau

美味新焦点

fresh focus Aurora’s new chef de cuisine brings his elegant style to bear on Italy’s regional classics.

DAVID HARTUNG

WITH FRANCESCO GRECO IN CHARGE,

Aurora at Altira Macau is ready to dazzle diners with a new menu that highlights the very best of Italian regional specialties – risottos of Lombardy, organic meats from Piedmont and Tuscany, Mediterranean seafood from Puglia and Sicily, and the freshest of produce from Campania. “We’ve redesigned the whole menu with a focus on traditional Italian cuisine – Italy at its best,” says Greco. “I like to use recipes from all over the country, north to south. I’m from the north but I have roots in the south – I like to prepare a little bit of everything from everywhere.” Rather than concentrating on any one region, Greco prefers to focus on the quality of the ingredients. “We source top products from around the world,” he says. “Lamb from Australia, organic greens from Hong Kong, fish from Tokyo. I’m very particular and I always try to use the freshest and best I can find that will suit the dish.” Greco and his team spent two months creating the new menu, featuring dishes like Milanese-style saffron risotto with roasted langoustine in gremolata and veal juice. Of the pan-seared wagyu beef tenderloin Greco

澳门新濠锋酒店顶级餐厅「奥罗拉」迎来新任主厨 Francesco Greco，推出全新菜单。意大利原汁美味首选，包括 Lombardy 炖饭、 Piedmont 及托斯卡尼有机肉品、Puglia 及西西里岛地中海海鲜，以及 Campania 的各式新鲜农产品，包准让饕客惊艳不已。 Greco 表示：「全新设计的菜单，以传统意式料理为重点－均为上乘之选。全国各地的食谱，从北意到南意，都在参考之列。我出身北意，家族根基却在南方。做菜时，我习惯放入从各地搜罗而来的食材，少量斟酌备用。」比起聚焦特定地区，Greco 更偏向把重心放在食材品质上，他强调：「餐厅进口世界各地的顶级食材，像来自澳洲的羔羊、香港的有机蔬菜及东京直送的鱼。做起菜来我也非常执着，为了搭配菜色口味，尝试各种最新鲜、最好的食材，不成功绝不罢休。」 Greco 和团队花了两个月时间研发新菜单，菜色包括番红花意大利饭、烤海螯虾佐 gremolata 酱料及牛肉酱汁。对于铁板炙烧和牛里脊，总厨说明：「这道菜色的摆盘会随季节而变，主要是配菜依时令调整。现在正值意大利冬末，因而选用栗子泥、炖煮甘蓝、综合野菇及黑松露。夏天则会用绿豌豆、芦笋、蚕豆及马铃薯。」 SPRING HARVEST | TK |

says, “I’ll present this dish seasonally, and when the season changes I’ll update the vegetables. Right now it’s the back of the Italian winter, so we have chestnut purée, braised cabbage, mushroom medley, and black truffle. In summer we’ll go with maybe green peas, asparagus, fava beans, and potato.”

The tuna carpaccio is Sicilian-influenced, and the tuna, tomatoes, and blood oranges are sourced from the island and served with shaved fennel, salad greens, and bottarga mayonnaise. “We marinate the tuna in extra virgin olive oil, rock salt, and a special spice,” says Greco, “but I can’t give away

the secret!” Linguine with Brittany blue lobster and Pachino cherry tomato sauce has just three ingredients. “The beauty is the simplicity,” he says, “but it’s so packed full of flavor, you’d never know.” Greco’s desserts each come with a twist, like his signature tiramisu served deconstructed as caramelized hazelnuts with espresso jelly, cookies, hazelnut gelato, chocolate tuile, and tiramisu foam. “Guests can really play around with this,” he says, “enjoying it flavor by flavor or mixing it all up.” When asked to characterize his cooking style, Greco says, “I try to make it elegant in different aspects, not just the presentation. You can certainly plate a dish to look elegant, but it’s also about how we treat the ingredients and how we develop the dish. I hate to see a steak just thrown on the grill. When you work in fine dining you need to be very detailed with the cooking methods. What I love about being a chef is the focus you must have – 100 percent in order to get excellent results. You need both focus and patience to go inside that zone, that bubble of concentration, where it’s just you and the food and nothing else exists. That’s when you develop great food.” Which ingredient is at the top of Greco’s list? “My favorites to work with are whatever is in season,” he says. “Cherry tomatoes from Sicily in the summer are so sweet they blow you away, chestnuts in autumn and blood oranges in the winter. Anything seasonal and fresh gets my vote.”

生鲔鱼片为西西里风料理，所用鲔鱼、蕃茄及血橙也都从西西里岛空运而来，搭配茴香片、蔬菜沙拉及金枪鱼卵美乃滋上桌。关于作法，Greco 语带保留：「鲔鱼用大量特级初榨橄榄油、岩盐及一种特殊香料腌渍，只能说到这，不能再透露更多了！」另外像是布列塔尼蓝龙虾宽扁面佐 Pachino 樱桃蕃茄酱，只用了三种素材，总厨说：「简单就是美，而味道之丰富，吃了才知道。」主厨的甜点则是道道有巧思，像是招牌提拉米苏走结构装盘路线，只见焦糖榛

果佐 espresso 冻、饼干、榛果冰淇淋、巧克力饼及提拉米苏泡沫罗列餐盘之上。 Greco 笑着表示：「客人真的可以边吃边玩，品尝美味的同时，也享受混搭的乐趣。」问到如何形容自己的烹饪风格，Greco 说道：「我试图从全方位让料理变得优雅，摆盘只是其中之一。菜色当然可以摆设得很优雅，但处理食材及烹调菜肴的过程也应并重。拿到牛排，直接甩到烤盘那种轻率的态度我很讨厌，所谓精致料理就是要追求细节，所用的各种烹调方式一点都马虎不得。当厨

师最让我着迷的地方就是需要百分之百的专注，才能创造出无懈可击的作品。想要达到那个境界，专心及耐心不可或缺，才能集中注意力，彷佛世界仅剩你和食材，其余目空一切，只有如此才能做出一级棒的美食。」至于手中最棒的食材，Greco 巧妙回应：「我最爱的就是各种当季食材，像西西里岛夏季盛产的樱桃蕃茄，入口香甜简直让人无法抵挡，秋天的栗子或冬天的血橙也是如此。只要当令新鲜，都是我眼中最棒的食材。」

Bluefin Tuna Carpaccio, Bottarga Mayonnaise, Pollen and Sicilian Orange 蓝鳍吞拿鱼薄片配鱼子蛋黄酱及西西里橙

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

presented by altira macau

Chef de Cuisine 主厨 Francesco Greco

多多益膳

sum more New adventures in classic Cantonese and beyond are in store for diners at Jade Dragon, City of Dreams, Macau.

JADE DRAGON has been expanding its horizons, first transforming its dim sum menu, then hosting one of China’s most renowned chefs. “We’re more than just Cantonese fine dining,” says Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung. “I want people to enjoy our completely original culinary experiences.” New offerings include such irresistible morsels as steamed white truffle crabmeat dumplings with water chestnuts and mushrooms,

誉珑轩近来大力拓展美食版图，首先是全面变更

Jade Dragon dumplings (tinted jade green with chive juice, stuffed with prawn and blue lobster), and vegetable buns with cabbage, truffle, and

制作，呈翠绿色，内馅是虾子与蓝龙虾肉）、鲜

点心菜单，接着是邀请中国最知名的厨师莅临献艺，行政总厨谭国锋表示：「我们不仅仅是精致粤菜餐厅，我希望每位嘉宾都能尽情享受一场原创的美食飨宴。」新菜色包含各种令人垂涎欲滴的小巧点心：水晶白松露蟹粉餜、翡翠玉龙饺（外皮加入韭菜蔬松露饼以及使用澳洲和牛制成的一口和牛酥，

Jade Dragon Dumpling, Baked Abalone and Chicken Tartlet, Bamboo Prawn Crispy Prawn Roll Red Rice Roll 翡翠玉龙饺、原只鲍鱼鸡粒酥、脆皮鲜虾红米肠

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

presented by city of dreams macau

mushrooms. The Australian wagyu beef puff is Shanghainese in style, but more refined. “Traditionally this would be triple the size, a main course,” says Chef Tam. “Ours is one melting bite to pop in your mouth.” The tea master is at hand to recommend the perfect match for any dim sum, such as robust black or lychee teas with meat and green or floral teas with lighter, vegetarian dishes. “We’re not the typical dim sum tea house with the overlong menu,” says Chef Tam. “We have a well-chosen selection of excellent quality. The real secret is our fresh, seasonal ingredients.”

可说是上海酥饼的精致版。谭国锋说：「传统酥饼会用作主菜，大小是这道点心的三倍，而我们的是一口大小的酥餅，入口即化。」餐厅内还聘有专业泡茶师，为宾客提供茶饮搭配建议，如肉类点心可搭配红茶、荔枝茶，若是清淡的素食点心，则可佐以绿茶或花茶。谭国锋指出：「我們并沒有令人眼花鷥亂的冗長菜單，我們为宾客精心搭配各式优质佳肴，美味秘诀就在于我们只用新鲜时令的食材。」

Vegetable and Pork Dumplings in Vinegar and Chili Sauce, Steamed Kagani Crabmeat Dumpling, Steamed Traditional Pork Dumpling with Baby Abalone 川式红油抄手、灌汤日本毛蟹小笼包、菜汁鲍鱼烧卖 spring harvest

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Ivan, Li Xiao Lin, Family Li’s Successor 厉家菜传人厉晓麟

The role of dim sum on the menu has evolved. “Nowadays it’s often a starter before a full meal rather than snacks to have with tea,” says Chef Tam. “It’s common for guests to order a few dim sum as appetizers, but with our very special selection we also have many guests who order everything from the dim sum menu.” Jade Dragon remains committed to authentic Cantonese cuisine, but Chef Tam believes it is important to showcase the cooking of other regions as well. In early May he hosted Chef Ivan Li, founder of Family Li Imperial Cuisine in Beijing, the restaurant which first introduced diners to dishes from the imperial kitchen, where Chef Ivan’s grandfather once served. “I am really looking forward to meeting Chef Ivan and seeing what he’ll be creating,” says Chef Tam. “He’s so well-known for keeping alive the traditional cooking of the imperial palace.” During his three-night engagement, Chef Ivan prepared Li Cuisine

TK | spring harvest

点心在菜单中的角色亦得到进化。谭国锋说：「相比起当作茗茶时的小食，今时今日的点心比较像是享用大餐前的头盘。现在的客人普遍会点数款点心作前菜，但碰上我们的特别推介，仍有不少客人会从点心菜单中挑选心仪的点心作头盘、主菜以至甜品。」誉珑轩致力呈现粤菜料理的道地风貌，但谭国锋认为引进其他地区的特色料理，也十分重要。因此他邀请北京厉家菜的掌门人厉晓麟大厨于五月上旬造访澳门，北京厉家菜是传承清朝宫廷料理精髓的知名餐厅，厉晓麟的祖父曾任晚清掌管御膳房的内务府大臣。谭国锋说道：「我很期待与厉大厨见面和一探他的创作。众所周知，御膳的传统料理方法从他那儿得到传承。」在为期三天的美食飨宴中，厉晓麟大厨将

presented by city of dreams macau

Tam Kwok Fung, Executive Chef at Jade Dragon

COURTESY OF JADE DRAGON (4)

誉珑轩行政总厨谭国锋

classics like fried mashed green beans with minced scallop and ginger, smoked pork, and boiled soup with minced prawns and seaweed. “We’re very pleased to bring Li Cuisine to Macau again,” says Chef Ivan. “This city is famous for its culinary variety, not only dishes from around the world, but also the distinctive local food. And there are so many foodies and gourmets here!” The chef is asked to characterize his style. “I pursue natural and authentic tastes.” he says. “I like to cook with wild game—that reflects my Manchurian ancestry—and dried ingredients, including sea cucumber and abalone. Here in Macau I’m preparing some very unusual dishes like green bean soup with rice and bird nest, specially ordered by Emperor Qianlong at the Chengde Mountain Resort, and a dessert that was later made famous by Empress Dowager Cixi,” says Chef Ivan. “It’s utterly unique and it reflects the great delicacy of the royal cuisine.”

带来经典厉家菜，包含以毛豆泥搅入日本扇贝泥与姜末制成的「翡翠豆腐」，和结合虾肉、猪肉以及海带的葛仙米鲜虾丸子汤。厉晓麟表示：「我们很高兴能把厉家菜带到澳门，这里的美食以多元丰富着称，不只有各国美味料理，更有地道的澳门菜，当然少不得为数众多的饕客跟美食家！」当被问到会如何形容自己的烹饪风格，他表示：「我追求自然和原始的味道。我喜欢烹煮野味，因为这最具满州特色；另外还有干制食材，例如海参和鲍鱼。我们还准备了一些特殊菜肴，如燕菜绿豆汤饭，这是乾隆皇帝在承德山庄避暑时钦点的菜色。还有一道由慈禧太后发明的点心，非常独特，完全展现出宫廷御膳的精致完美。」 spring harvest

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presented by starworld macau

春之宴

rite of spring STARWORLD HOTEL’S Executive Chinese Chef Chan Chak Keong’s experience of more than twenty years in the culinary arts has made him an expert at creating menus that consistently capture the imagination of diners, and the current spring menu may

Chef Chan Chak Keong 总厨陈植强

TK | spring harvest

just be his most inventive. “Tea has a long and storied history in Chinese culture,” says Chan. “We’re taking that one step further by introducing teas throughout our menu to create a very new dining experience.” The set menu features offerings that include succulent marinated shrimp, sweet and sour chicken fillets, braised abalone, as well as three additional courses, all finishing off with an enticing Chinese pancake for dessert. With each dish Chan has incorporated the tastes and aromas of China’s finest teas, including Longjing, Maojian, and Matcha. The result is a heady mélange of flavors that come together in a feast worthy of the season. Among the six courses is a Feng Wei Ju signature dish, Sautéed Shredded Bamboo Shoots with Green Tea. The brainchild of the restaurant’s four master chefs, it brings together the fragrance of Biluochun tea with the clean, crisp taste of seasonal stem lettuce, delivering the essence of spring in each bite. Feng Wei Ju has quickly become known for its rotating seasonal menus, including its New Year seafood-based version and its most recent spring-inspired entry. While

offering an ever-changing selection of original options, it remains true to its exacting standards and classic values. From its five-star gourmet selections to its popular home-cooking favorites, Feng Wei Ju has established itself with locals as a return destination. Seasonal ingredients flown in daily and a brilliant culinary team are just two of the reasons for its growing reputation and long waiting list. With all its emphasis on imaginative choices and ever-higher levels of perfection, Chef Chan Chak Keong still has just one simple goal: “What I want is to cook food that leaves my guests feeling satisfied and happy.”

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

To celebrate this season of renewal, Feng Wei Ju has created a menu with a fresh approach to the finest in Chinese cuisine and teas.

The Feast of Chinese Tea Cuisine: Steamed Rice with Crab, Green Tea Cake, Sautéed Shredded Bamboo Shoot with Green Tea, Marinated Shrimps with Dry Mandarin Peel & Long Cheng, Sweet & Sour Chicken Fillets in Premium Tea and Braised Abalone served with Kung Fu Tea. 清香春茶盛宴：红蟳蒸稻香米、茉茶甜煎饼、翠绿千丝碧螺春、龙井陈皮花竹虾、峨眉毛尖大千鸡球和功夫名茶配四头鲍鱼。

陈植强师傅担任澳门星际酒店的行政高级中餐总厨，在料理界耕耘超过二十年，往往能运用丰富的经验，设计充满无限创意的菜单，而今年春季的菜色可说是最独具创意的组合。陈植强总厨表示：「茶在中国文化中具有悠久丰富的历史，而我们更进一步将茶融入菜肴，打造全新的美食体验。」

春宴菜色包含味美多汁的花竹虾、酸甜鸡球、焖鲍鱼等六道佳肴，最后以迷人的中式茉茶甜煎饼划下句点。陈植强主厨更将顶级中国茶的香气与风味融入这些料理，包含龙井、毛尖、茉茶等，打造出一场令人陶醉的春季缤纷盛宴。其中一道菜是风味居的招牌菜：翠绿

千丝碧螺春。这是风味居四位大厨共同研发的菜色，结合碧螺春茶的香气与清新爽口的鲜莴笋，每一口都散发出春天的味道。各式时令菜单让风味居在短时间内便盛名远播，包括新年的海鲜盛宴菜单，还有搭配春夏季节的主题菜单。虽然风味居为宾客提供变化丰富的选择，但他们对于最高标准与经典价值的坚持则始终不变。无论是五星级料理或是热门小菜，风味居总能吸引宾客一再光顾。凭借每天新鲜配送的当令食材和优秀的料理团队这两项主要因素，造就了风味居日益响亮的名气与应接不暇的订位名单。陈植强主厨追求充满创意的料理与臻于完美的技艺，但他最终的目标只有一个：「我想要的，就是做出让客人开心满足的菜。」 spring harvest

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A classic from Côte Saint Jacques: ocean oyster terrine with shallot confit, Irancy wine gelée, and spinach is adorned with an oyster leaf that tastes exactly like a fresh oyster.

Chef Amerigo’s lamb carpaccio may look like a sushi roll, but it’s a true taste of southern France, with lightly seared Provençal herb-crusted lamb rolled around light goat cheese mousse atop a black pepper sablé and flower salad.

Chef Amerigo’s “pink wave” of texture combines the crispy and tender fried sea bass with fluffy beetroot-scented quinoa, crunchy beetroot tuile, and pomegranate froth.

「Côte Saint Jacques」餐厅经典菜色：海洋生蚝冻、油酥葱、Irancy红酒胶冻、波菜搭配带有百分百新鲜生蚝原味的生蚝叶。

Amerigo主厨的生羔羊肉盘看似寿司卷，但绝对是地道南法风味。普罗旺斯酥烤香料羊肉裹以味道清淡的山羊奶酪慕斯，其上缀以黑胡椒饼及花色拉。

Amerigo主厨的「粉红浪潮」多种食材口感兼容并蓄，融合酥脆柔嫩的深海鲈鱼、松软的甜菜根风味藜麦、爽脆的甜菜根饼及石榴泡沫。

tasting destination

创意大颠覆

upside down

COURTESY OF J’AIME

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain at U Sathorn Bangkok turns formal French cuisine on its head. Mamie Chen pays a visit to learn more.

FRENCH FOR “I LOVE,” J’aime may represent the passion that Michelin three-star chef Jean-Michel Lorain has for the art of cooking, or perhaps his abiding affection for Bangkok, or, more likely, his deep love for daughter Marine. She and her partner, Chef Amerigo Sesti, are the trusted team Lorain has put in charge of his Bangkok venue. But the playful uncertainty in the name most certainly captures the informal lightheartedness that pervades the restaurant. A divertingly disorienting décor makes the first impression. Madly stacked teacups are tabletop centerpieces, an inverted piano hangs from a ceiling made of parquet “flooring,” and the actual floor is covered with glass “ceiling” tiles. But it’s the imaginative approach to food that leaves the lasting impression. “In France, everybody has their own plate and that’s it,” says Marine. “The Asian way is more convivial. Everyone gets to try a little of everything and have a shared experience. My father’s concept was to serve French food in the Asian style.” While J’aime’s dishes retain authentic French ingredients, cooking techniques, and presentations, the service has a relaxed Asian quality. Each place at table has just one set of cutlery plus chopsticks to eliminate all fuss. Shared dishes are served on a Lazy Susan, but they are individually portioned so each diner is able to appreciate the precise ingredient ratios and textures intended by the chef. J’aime is very comfortable straddling the culinary boundary between classic and modern French, showcasing signature recipes passed down through four generations at Lorain’s Côte Saint Jacques alongside original offerings by Chef Sesti. “I spent eight months in Burgundy learning the Jean-Michel style and philosophy,” says Sesti. “When I create new dishes now, Marine is my touchstone.”

Maître d’ Marine Lorain, Chef Jean-Michel Lorain and Head Chef Amerigo Sesti 餐厅主管 Marine Lorain, 米其林三星主厨 Jean-Michel Lorain和主厨 Amerigo Sesti

米其林三星主厨 Jean-Michel Lorain 对于烹饪艺术的投入、喜爱曼谷的程度，乃至于深爱的女儿 Marine，均可用法文的一个词来表示－ J’aime ( 我爱 )。 Marine 及好拍挡 Amerigo Sesti 实力深获 Jean-Michel Lorain 肯定，更将曼谷餐厅「J’aime」全权交由他们掌管。「J’aime」这个名称衍生的兴味十足，也和餐厅随性轻松的氛围不谋而合。餐厅给人的第一印象，便是风格错置、别出心裁的有趣内装：桌子中央有大量堆叠的茶杯，为吸引众人目光的狂野摆饰；天花板由拼花「地板」组成，一台钢琴上下颠倒，垂吊而下，真正的地板则是满布玻璃材质的「天花板」磁砖。 J’aime 的创意可不只于此，客人享用美食之际仍是惊喜不断。 Marine 表示：「在法国，大家习惯用餐时有自己的盘子，从头到尾如此；

亚洲人则喜欢同欢，每道菜大家都吃一点，一起享用。我父亲就是想让法国菜以亚洲的方式上桌。」 J’aime 菜色运用原汁原味的法国食材，保留法式烹饪技巧及摆盘方式，但服务则走惬意的亚洲特色路线。餐桌上每个区位只放一组餐具加筷子，让客人能安心用餐。共享菜则先分好单人份量后置于旋转餐盘上，让每个饕客都能享用主厨精心拿捏的各式食材比例及口感。 J’aime 可说是经典及现代法国菜的跨界餐厅，吃得到「Lorain’s Côte Saint Jacques」顶级餐厅传承四代的招牌菜色，也能品尝 Sesti 主厨的原创料理。他说：「我曾在勃艮第待过 8 个月，学习 JeanMichel 的烹饪风格及哲学。每每我创作新菜时，别无第二人选，Marine 就是我最好的试金石。」 spring harvest

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presented by the park lane hong kong, a pullman hotel

发现南非

discovering south africa Guest chef Allistaire Lawrence gives contemporary flair to the traditional tastes of his homeland at The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel.

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

ALLISTAIRE LAWRENCE sits beside a twentyseventh floor window at RIVA and The Deck at The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel. The spectacular cityscape of Victoria Harbor feels far removed from the countryside locale of his restaurant near Cape Town, Bertus Basson at Spice Route. There guests dine al fresco with a bottle of local wine and take in the valley’s vineyards and the hazy blue mountains beyond. “The concept of our restaurant is modern South African, but it involves more than the food,” says Lawrence. “It’s the ingredients, the family recipes, the enamel bowl that evokes nostalgia for our grandmothers’ old things—the whole ambiance of the setting.” Bringing the authentic feel and flavors of his country to diners in Asia is what motivated Allistaire Lawrence to accept The Park Lane Hong Kong’s invitation to be featured as guest chef at their Discover South Africa Festival. It’s the latest in an entire series of

events that The Park Lane Hong Kong has hosted in conjunction with Wines of South Africa (WOSA) to explore South African culture. Lawrence is part of a movement to modernize his country’s food, and he delights in taking familiar combinations and adding a South African ingredient or technique to make them his own. He augments the classic steak and mushrooms with smoked eggplant grilled on open wood and charcoal flames until the skin is charred, imparting the unmistakable braai aroma. “South Africa is blessed to have been influenced by many cultures, so we feel something is proudly ours when we’ve added our unique twist,” says Lawrence. “I take every opportunity to visit other countries and showcase South African cuisine. I want to share our flavors and our culture so people can experience a new perspective on the South Africa I love.”

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Ertjie sop, or split pea soup, with crispy ham hock, gremolata, sour cream, and spring onion 豌豆汤搭配脆火腿、柠檬调味汁、酸忌廉及葱

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Spiced venison loin, curried venison shoulder, carrot purée, and soet wortels, or sweet baby carrots 黄麖柳、咖喱黄麖肉佐甘笋蓉及甘笋

 Chef Allistaire Lawrence  A small sampling of South African wines serves as testament to the country’s maturing viniculture and its burgeoning wine industry. 浅尝南非空运葡萄酒，甘醇美味正是南非葡萄栽培渐臻成熟及酿酒业蓬勃发展的最佳例证

Allistaire Lawrence 坐在香港「柏宁酒店」的「RIVA 餐厅及露天平台」的窗边，远眺九龙和维多利亚港的景色，并想起他开设在开普敦附近的「Bertus Basson at Spice Route」餐厅的休闲乡村气息。在那儿，客人可在户外享用当地的美酒，并尽享附近葡萄园及山谷，以至云雾缭绕的蓝山美景。 Lawrence 表示：「我们走的是现代南非的风格，但这不会只展现在食物上，而是可以从材料和味道，以及家族一直流传的菜谱上体现得到。其实餐厅的布置中无处不见这风格的巧思，就连一个搪瓷碗，也能唤起对祖母和旧时光的依恋。」 Lawrence 一心想和亚洲饕客分享原汁原味南非风味及美食，因此爽快答应香港「柏宁酒店」的邀请，担任「发现南非美食节」的客席厨师。这也是酒店为探索南非文化，与南非葡萄酒协会 (WOSA) 合办的系列活动中的最新一项。 Lawrence 也算是近年南非菜现代化的推手之一，以熟悉的美食组合为基底，利用南非食材或烹调方式开创个人风格。在他的巧手下，经典南非蘑菇牛排，加上柴烧炉及木炭烧烤的熏烤茄子，份量更饱满；焦脆茄皮正是百分百南非烧烤风味，让人食指大动。主厨表示：「南非很幸运，受过不同文化的洗礼；但我们总能添加自己的特色，创造全然属于南非的风格，这正是让我们自豪之处。每次出国工作，我总全力展现南非菜的全貌，希望透过分享我们的风味及文化，让更多人能从崭新的视角，体验我所深爱的南非。」 spring harvest

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travel

TK | SPRING HARVEST

漫游湄公河

Mekong Days A journey on the Aqua Mekong allows travelers to experience the rhythms of a legendary river and the spirit of life on its shores. BY MARK HAMMONS

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

SPRING HARVEST | TK |

travel

WHEN TODAY’S TRAVELERS take to the water for a holiday, they don’t embark expecting canned food or sailors’ berths. An amenities arms race in the cruise ship industry has escalated over the past decade, with each new entrant striving to provide ever more sumptuous meals and opulent accommodations. The Aqua Mekong river cruiser, launched in October 2014 and now sailing weekly between Siem Riep and Saigon, brings a measure of ocean-liner sophistication to one of Asia’s most storied waterways. The vessel offers twenty elegant teak and silk-lined suites, each appointed with floor-to-ceiling windows and a spacious, black-tiled bath. While the boat has a fitness center, spa, library, and screening room, a disproportionate amount of time is spent in the dining room. The Executive Chef of the Aqua Mekong is David Thompson, winner of the 2014 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants award for his restaurant Nahm in Bangkok. Thompson has developed a new menu especially for the Aqua Mekong , with dishes like River Prawns with Ginger, Shallots, Tamarind, and Palm Sugar Served on Betel Leaves that incorporate local culinary traditions and indigenous ingredients. Shore excursions are an integral part of any cruise experience, and the Aqua Mekong offers two each day. For expeditions embarking from Phnom Penh, the first day features a morning cyclo tour around the town of Hong Ngu, followed by a late afternoon visit to the village of My An Hung. At My An Hung, Village Elder Mr. Ut Khong treats guests to refreshments, including wax apples, prized “king” bananas, fish that have been slow-cooked in the earth, and a homemade, highly potent rice wine that comes with Mr. Ut’s strongest personal endorsement. Entertainment includes singing by Mrs. Ut, accompanied on the dan bau , a singlestringed zither, followed by a twisting and spinning jig called the unicorn dance performed by village youth in bright yellow costumes. Nearby is a makeshift structure known as a monkey bridge, which serves as both a transportation link and a kind of abstract village sculpture. Constructed using a motley assortment of scrap wood, tree branches, nails, and twine, and rigged together using dubious civil engineering principles, thousands of monkey bridges across Vietnam connect small villages with nearby roads.

TK | spring harvest

现代人若想搭船旅行度假，早就不会考虑罐头食物，更不会想睡在水手的窄床上。过去十年间，游轮业者竞相打造船上各种高档设施，新进业者更频频祭出更丰盛的餐点、更奢华的客房设施以吸引游客。

2014 年 10 月，Aqua Mekong 游轮正式启航运行，现在每周运行于柬埔寨的暹粒市与越南胡志明市之间，在这条全亚洲最富传奇色彩的河流上，Aqua Mekong 号树立深度游轮之旅的典范。

Aqua Mekong 游轮共有 20 间典雅柚木套房，以丝质寝饰布置，每间套房都有大片落地窗、宽敞舒适的浴室，以及品味非凡的黑色磁砖浴室。游轮虽然设有健身中心、SPA、图书馆、电影院，但许多旅客每天还是选择会在餐厅中待上很长一段时间，悠闲享用美食。

Aqua Mekong 游轮的行政主厨 David Thompson，其位于曼谷的餐厅 Nahm，是名列 2014 年亚洲 50 最佳餐厅之一。David Thompson 特别为游轮旅客设计一份新菜单，融合当地饮食传统以及原住民美食食材，其中一道料理使用河虾，加入姜、红葱头、罗望子和棕榈糖，最后再以槟榔叶盛装。至于游轮之旅必备的岸上观光行程，

Aqua Mekong 游轮每天则提供两种行程，从金边出发的探险行程，第一天早上是骑脚踏车，傍晚走访名环游当地小镇鸿御（Hong Ngu）为 My An Hung 的村落。在这个村落中，有一位长者名叫 Ut Khong，负责招待宾客享用点心佳肴，如莲雾、珍贵的「王者」香蕉，以及用泥土包裹鱼肉后以慢火烹煮的料理，此外，还有 Ut Khong 先生大力推荐的自制米酒，酒精浓度很高。餐后则可观赏余兴节目，Ut Khong 引吭高歌，并以单弦琴伴奏，接着是由村中青年表演的独角兽舞，舞者身穿澄黄色舞衣，表演许多复杂的旋转与扭转动作。附近有一个俗称猴桥的简陋木架，用来当成交通接驳处或是简易的过路桥。运用各种废木头、树枝、钉子、麻线，以似乎不太可靠的工程技法组装而成。在越南各地，数以千计的猴桥是连结许多小村落与邻近道路之间的桥梁。

TK | SPRING HARVEST

travel

A trip back and forth across the monkey bridge is considered a must-try activity for visitors to My An Hung, and a steady stream of locals can be seen skipping across the narrow catwalks with grace and ease, often balancing babies or heavy loads on their backs. Aqua Mekong guests—after bolstering their courage with a few shots of Mr. Ut’s rice wine—inch gingerly across the walkway, stooping to clutch at a flimsy bamboo pole on one side for spiritual support. The bridge bows under loads well beyond its original tolerance, but to the delight and relief of the hosts, everyone makes it back safely, and the crossing becomes an example of the expedition’s potential for simple but memorable pleasures. 到猴桥上来回走一趟，是走访这个 My An Hung 村落的旅客绝不可错过的探险活动。许多当地人过桥时往往身负重物，或是背着婴儿，但仍能在窄小的架上轻松取得平衡，跟其他人谈笑自如。旅客喝了几杯 Ut Khong 的自制米酒壮壮胆后，便小心翼翼走上猴桥，弯腰抓紧一端脆弱的竹竿，降低紧张感，猴桥承受比平时更大的重量负担，但是幸好每个旅客都安全而返，这个过桥经验想必让他们难以忘怀。 spring harvest

TK |

travel

On day two, a bicycle tour along the winding canals of Cai Be brings another brief moment of drama. Halfway through the ride, the skies open up and release a tropical downpour. But thanks to nimble leadership by the guides, the group first finds cover beneath a brick shed and then makes a break for a nearby dock, where a skiff comes to the rescue. With the regular excursions, generous meals, and amiable company, opportunities to quietly mediate on the Mekong are more rare than one might think. Late in the evening is the perfect time for a solitary retreat to the rooftop observation deck. A succession of house lights stretch along the far bank, and the eyes zero in on a single yellow glow. At first it seems as though everything is stationary, but one can feel a cool breeze and hear the quiet hum of the engine. Down below, soft waves ripple away hypnotically in the boat’s wake. Looking up again, the lights on the far shore are still visible, but it’s clear now that they are steadily receding into the haze as the boat moves downstream.

第二天，到芹苴市（Cai Be）骑着脚踏车沿着蜿蜒的运河漫游，这更是旅程中难忘的插曲。一群人骑到半途，上方顿失遮蔽物，热带的倾盆大雨淋在身上，幸好导游很机灵，让大家先在砖瓦棚下取得遮盖物，接着到邻近的码头休息，后来有艘小船前来支援。湄公河上这场充满惊喜的探险之旅、风味绝佳的美食以及和蔼可亲的旅伴，若想享受片刻的沉淀冥想，似乎并不容易，但是晚间的游轮观赏甲板，正提供静静独处的绝佳机会，旅客可在此遥望远方宽广的海岸，看着岸边成排房屋内摇曳的微弱灯火，让思绪慢慢沉淀。刚开始，你会以为似乎一切都静止了，只感受到沁凉的微风与游轮低沉的引擎声，下方轻柔的波浪仿佛具有催眠的力量，再抬头向前看，还看得见远方的灯火，只是越来越微弱，渐渐熄灭，随着游轮朝下游行进，微光逐渐隐没在一片淡淡的薄雾中。

The Aqua Mekong operates 3-, 4-, and 7-night itineraries that sail weekly from Siem Riep to Saigon and back. For reservations, visit: www.aquaexpeditions.com. Tasting Kitchen was provided spectacular rooms and a lavish lunch at the historic Raffles Hotel Le Royal, a peerless base for any tour of the region. For reservations, visit: www.raffles.com/phnompenh. Aqua Mekong游轮提供三天、四天或七天的行程选择，每周航行，航线往返于暹粒市与胡志明市之间。订位请至： www.raffles.com/phnompenh。Tasting Kitchen采访成员本次获招待入住历史悠久的金边莱佛士皇家酒店(Raffles Hotel Le Royal), 体验顶级奢华住宿与丰盛美味中餐，服务水准在该地区堪称无与伦比，订房请至：www.raffles .com/phnompenh。

TK | spring harvest

春之酿

wine spring

WINTER SNOWS ARE MELTING in the Alps, and once the warmth of the season’s sun has taken hold, embracing the hilltops and valleys across the Austrian countryside, the time has come to take to the road and begin exploring Austria’s myriad and varied wines – and all the places they are made. Planning a route is the only quandary. Is it best to begin in Lower Austria in the Northeast, with its little vineyards tucked along the broad Danube’s banks and ornate Baroque abbey churches hovering above at Melk, Göttweig, and Klosterneuburg? Made here are the peppery Grüner Veltliner wines and Rieslings that range from young and fruity to nobly aged and heavy with the scent of roses.

TK | spring harvest

For anyone inclined to biking or wind surfing, perhaps the place to start is Lake Neusiedl in the East. Sunny weather and protected habitat for rare flora and fauna make it a haven for lovers of recreation and nature. Refreshing, fruity, balanced red wines from the Zweigelt grape perfectly mirror the region’s terroir. The South offers temptations of its own. South Burgenland has complex soil and a tempered climate that provide a perfect environment for Blaufränkisch and other reds that exhibit exceptional minerality and elegance. And the region of Styria with its Mediterranean influence of warm, humid days and cool nights is known for spicy Schilcher Rosé from the undulating hills toward

the west and, further east, aromatic Sauvignon Blanc grapes that yield remarkable wines with fruity, flowery notes and subtle nuance. Or maybe the logical starting point would be the capital of Vienna, viewed from the spectacular vantage point of a hiking trail through the steep vineyards above the city. The Wiener Gemischte Satz blend produced here, long regarded as suitable only for a Heuriger, or wine tavern, with Brettljause, a platter of cold cuts, has recently been elevated to cult status by advanced producers. But whatever route a tour through the country vineyards, cellars, and tasting rooms takes, it is certain to leave a memory of three lovely things: Austria, springtime, and wine.

ÖWM/WEINBAUVERBAND KÄRNTEN ( WEINAUSKAERNTEN.AT )

The villages, vineyards, and vintages of Austria are waiting to be discovered this season.

presented by austrian wine

Lavanttal

↑↑ Wine lovers at a Heuriger

AWMB / KOMITEE KAMPTAL (2)

Heuriger葡萄酒馆的葡萄酒爱好者

阿尔卑斯山冬季的积雪已悄悄融化，春天温暖的阳光再度洒在大地上，和煦亲吻奥地利各地的山峰与溪谷，此时正是寻访奥地利之美的好时节，尽情探索当地的美酒佳酿。规划路线方面，可以从东北部的下奥地利开始，走访多瑙河沿岸数个小型葡萄园，以及梅尔克镇、格特维克镇、巴洛克风格修道院，此处生产带有胡椒味的 Grüner Veltliner 葡萄酒，以及各式风味的 Rieslings 葡萄酒，从带有果香的新酒到带有浓浓玫瑰香的陈年佳酿，一应俱全。喜欢骑单车或风帆冲浪的游客，可从奥地利东部的新锡德尔湖开始，此地天气晴朗，还设有罕见动植物保育区，以茨威格品种葡萄所酿制的红酒十分清爽，果味丰富且酒体平衡，完美呈现当地风土样貌。而奥地利南部则是独具一格，南布根

↑ Harvest in the wine region Kamptal in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) 下奥地利葡萄酒产区坎普谷收获期

兰地区的土壤类型相当复杂且气候温和，适宜 Blaufränkisch 与其他红葡萄品种生长，酿出的葡萄酒优雅高贵，带有丰富的矿石风味。施泰尔地区受地中海影响，日间温暖潮湿，夜间气温凉爽，西部起伏跌宕的山丘以出产带有辛辣味的 Schilcher Rosé 玫瑰酒闻名，东部则盛产香气四溢的 Sauvignon Blanc 葡萄品种，可酿制出果味丰富、带有果香、口感细致的极品美酒。最标准的选择就是从首都维也纳出发，山坡上的

葡萄园内有单车道，游客可以沿着车道俯瞰首都风景，一览美丽风光。此地生产的 Wiener Gemischte Satz 葡萄酒，大家都一直认为只适合在小酒馆中搭配冷盘享用，但近来酿酒厂致力提升技术，让 Wiener Gemischte Satz 也能跻身极品纯酿之列。无论选择哪一条路线走访奥地利的葡萄园、酒庄与品酒室，游客一定会对奥地利的春季风光、美酒佳酿留下深刻的印象。 spring harvest

TK |

Peter Sisseck

wine master

动力栽培佳酿

dynamic dominion Legendary winemaker Peter Sisseck, the man behind the wines of Dominio de Pingus in the Ribera del Duero and Chateau Rocheyron in Saint-Emilion, sat down with Barbra Austin to discuss the hype surrounding his wines, the potential in Spain’s vineyards and the value of biodynamic methods. § 生产自 Saint-Emilion 的 Ribera del Duero和 Rocheyron 酒庄的 Dominio de pingus 美酒，一直由传奇酿酒师 Peter Sisseck 默默耕耘和推动。今天他将与 Barbra Austin，讨论那些围绕他的葡萄

酒的炒作、西班牙葡萄园的发展潜力以及自然动力学的价值。

Pingus is often called a “cult” wine. What do you make of that term? I think there was a moment in time when all these things like “cult” wines were very much in fashion. I think it’s gone slightly out of fashion since the crisis and everything. There was a moment of excesses and stuff that was part of a time, and luckily all that is gone. So it’s not a term that I cultivate.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

When you first started making Pingus, did you believe that it would achieve such status? No. I didn’t have [any idea], and I never set out to do that. What I really wanted to do was to try and find an excellent vineyard in an area that I already considered potentially great: the Ribera. Of course we have Vega Sicilia which is excellent, but it’s a large farm. I thought it could be interesting, not just in Ribera but also in Spain, to try to find a small plot of land and really try to work it the proper way and try to really bring it to a very high level. But the level where we arrived, I never expected that, and certainly the whole thing surrounding it, the hype and the status if you can say that, I never really expected that to happen. The domaine has been organic from the start, and biodynamic from 2003. Does biodynamic viticulture result in better wines?

人们说「Pingus」是支倍受「膜拜 (cult)」的美酒，觉得这称号如何？只算是昙花一现吧。当时「膜拜 (cult)」美酒正好蔚为一时风潮，但后来已随着金融危机和其他因素逐渐式微。有段时期虚华无度成为流行，幸亏如今已经完全消逝。我倒是从没追求「膜拜」名号的意思。酿制「Pingus」时，有想过之后会受到各界推崇吗？我从没设定这种目标。当初纯粹是想在那个我认为很具潜力的 Ribera 产区中，找个最棒的葡萄园。我也有考虑过品质一流的 Vega Sicilia 产区，但它的幅员太广。其实不只在 Ribera，我甚至想从整个西班牙中找块小地，采行适当的作法，把品质提升到高档的程度；我觉得这会是个很有趣的尝试。我并没有设定目标，所以我们现在所达到的水准、包括随之而来的瞩目程度和地位都是我始料未及的。酒庄于 2003 年创立之初就以有机及自然动力为基础，这种栽培方式是否造就了味道更好的葡萄酒？我会说其实两者没有必然的关系。传统葡萄园也可以悉心照料，运用最适合作物的方法去酿制葡萄酒，并非自然动力栽培不可。不过近年很多酿酒人，包括 Rudolf Steiner ( 发明自然动力的先驱 ) 都视其为灵丹，为治愈土地的妙方。举例来说，若你手中有块像「Pingus」庄园的土地，自 1929 年开始栽种至今，状况都保持的非常好，我接手之初也是如此，毫无杂草， spring harvest

TK |

wine master

It’s a really good question. I would not say that it necessarily does. I think you can have conventional vineyards that are done with a lot of care and done in a proper way. I think you probably do not need biodynamics, but biodynamics was seen as a cure – even by Steiner himself [Rudolf Steiner, who first developed biodynamic methods] – as a way of curing the land. If you have a vineyard like the Pingus vineyard, it was planted in 1929, and it was an excellent vineyard and of course still is. Even when I took it over it was in very good care, in that it had no weeds and it was beautifully tilled. But since ‘29, in the end, the soil becomes very deprived of any organic material and that makes it very difficult for microorganisms to survive in

movement, I find it all very intriguing, very stimulating. And I think that there’s a lot of interesting stuff in it. There are also a lot of very poor wines among them, but I think it would be stupid or arrogant to just dismiss the whole movement as something that’s not worthwhile. I think that today, in general, there’s sometimes a lot of abuse or misuse of technique and too much reliance on technique, so I think it’s healthy to try to go back and stop the clock a bit and to try to understand what can be done. In 2003 we did an experiment where we fermented some batches without sulfur to see what happened … I wasn’t really happy. I didn’t really see a huge advantage in not using [sulfur]. Clearly the

I would guess that in China their style of suckling pig, and probably the duck as well, could be something that would go well with the Pingus. It shouldn’t be Nordic kitchen or something too refined. There are a lot of other great wines for that kind of kitchen. Why have you chosen to work in Bordeaux and Ribera? I learned my trade in Bordeaux, so that sort of feels like home. Or used to, I would say. The Bordeaux I knew in the early 80s has nothing to do with Bordeaux today. I never really expected that I was going to end up in Spain, but I’m very happy I did. I think it’s a great place – great country, great people and very big potential for

“I think Spain is a great place – great country, great people and very big potential for making world-class wines.” the soil. Claude Bourguignon, who worked with us, famously stated that the soil of Burgundy was as sterile as the soil of the Sahara. And there’s truth to this. The biodynamic method helps to reestablish microbiological life by extensive use of compost. It’s very important to understand that compost is not used as a fertilizer – it’s used instead to enrich the soils. When you see a natural soil – forest soils or prairie soils – where over many, many years there has been a buildup of organic material, these soils will be able to regulate themselves through drought periods. Whereas a soil that has been deprived of organic material is very exposed to climate change. So in order to have more constant and more self-regulating soils, you need to have a healthy layer of organic material in the soil … a lot of organic life in your soil. Biodynamics is a very good method for doing that, and I don’t see anything controversial in it. I also read that you were experimenting with a no-sulfur version of Pingus. Of course, all these controversies right now regarding natural wines and the whole

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non-sulfur wines, to begin with, were interesting, but the effect sort of faded out pretty fast and turned into something that was not so interesting. At least that was my impression at that time. It’s also true that perhaps the lack of knowledge or experience at the time made the experiment look worse than it was. So we decided to redo it in 2012. Again we fermented batches, filling the tanks without adding sulfur. And I must say that now I’m very convinced that we have probably overused sulfur in the past, at least when filling the tanks. If I ever managed to score a bottle of Pingus, what should I eat with it? What’s the best way to enjoy this wine? In Spain it goes very well with the local kitchen. You have a lot of wood-fired ovens, you have the suckling pig and the baby lamb and all these. So it should be quite a rich thing. Game is also something that [would work]. It’s more of an autumn wine or a winter wine than a summer wine, and it needs sort of quite heavy dishes and lots of truffles. It goes very well with truffles.

making world-class wines. I think it’s still not 100% there yet. There are a lot of extremely talented, young and eager winemakers in Spain today. I think they have a good knowledge and understanding of what we have, and we have indigenous varieties, which is very important. So I think Spain has huge potential, but I’d like to see more interesting vineyards. They are already there – the problem is that it’s so easy just to make an adequate wine. Are there any other regions where you’d like to work, or varietals you’d like to work with? Well, if I were young, I would like to find an area in Spain where we could make a really nice white wine. I would like to do that. Many of my colleagues, the more advanced guys, are doing some nice stuff in Galicia. I would probably also like, over time, to take a side project and perhaps do something in Rioja similar to what we’re doing in Ribera. But I’ll probably stay in Spain. If I was younger I would love to go to Burgundy, but it’s too far away for me now.

“ 我认为西班牙是个很棒的地方－伟大的国家、杰出的人民，还具有制造世界级好酒的潜力。”

DAVID HARTUNG

真是块很漂亮的耕地。但从 1929 年之后到现在，土壤中的有机物质已经严重流失，微生物难以生存。我们的工作伙伴 Claude Bourguignon 曾有句名言说，勃艮地和撒哈拉的土壤一样贫瘠，这话确实不假。动力栽培法广泛使用堆肥，有助重建微生物生态体系。不过有个前提很重要，堆肥并不等于肥料，它的作用是让土壤变得肥沃。像森林或草原那种天然土壤，历经许多年岁月累积有机物质，即便遇到干旱时期也能自我调节；相对来说，有机物质贫瘠的土壤就很容易受到气候变化的影响。要使土壤时常保最佳状态并具调节能力，土壤中一定要有健康的有机物质层及富含有机生物。动力栽培法正是达此目的的不二法门，目前为止还没听过什么负面的看法。

曾有报导说你试着开发无硫发酵的「Pingus」是吗？不可讳言，现在所有关于天然酿酒和相关潮流引起的讨论都让我觉得兴味十足、很有启发，有很多有趣的东西值得挖掘。其中当然也有不如人意的酒，但若因而以偏概全，片面否定整体风潮带来的价值，就过于不智或傲慢了。时至今日，常见滥用、误用和过度依赖栽种技术等不见得正确的

情况，其实真该适时停下来想想有何解决之道。我们在 2003 年挑了批酒，想看看无硫发酵的效果如何：结果令人不甚满意，拿掉硫并无什么显着的好处。听到无硫发酵酒的当下会觉得很新鲜，但效果其实并不持久，剩下的成品更是让人懊恼。要是当时多点相关知识和经验，或许成果还不至于那么糟糕。因此我们决定 2012 年重新挑战一次：同样挑了批酒，发酵时不添加任何硫化物。从这次的成果来看，我会说之前我们使用了过度的硫化物，至少灌满酒缸就是如此。

若有幸入手「Pingus」，该佐以什么食物享用？请推荐一下品尝 Pingus 最好的方式。在西班牙，Pingus 和地道菜色很搭，常用到柴烧烤炉或乳猪和羔羊等食材。用它来搭配味道丰富的菜准没错，搭配野味也是个不错的选择。和夏天比起来，Pingus 是较偏秋冬享用的酒种，推荐佐以味道浓重、或加很多松露的菜色，和松露简直可以说是天作之合。在中国的话，乳猪或烤鸭等料理应该能和「Pingus」擦出很棒的火花。北欧风格或太过精致的菜肴则可能与「Pingus」不太合适了：这类佳肴可有很多好酒可以搭配呢。

为何选择在波尔多和 Ribera 工作？我一身买卖技艺都在波尔多学的，那里就像我的家一样。那是八零年代，当时的波尔多和现在可说截然不同。我非常庆幸最后能落脚西班牙。这是个很棒的地方－伟大的国家、杰出的人民，还具有制造世界级好酒的潜力。虽然还有进步空间，不过这边现在有很多年轻酿酒人，有天份也肯努力，他们对于西班牙的酿酒条件、不同的在地葡萄品种等方面有深入的了解及具备相关的知识储备，对酿酒业发展来说相当重要。所以西班牙可说是潜力无穷，一定可以发现更多有趣的葡萄庄园。或者该说其实很多酒庄都只满足于酿造符合市场所需的葡萄酒，这才是问题所在。是否还有特定的产区或葡萄酒种是你想要尝试看看的？如果还年轻，我真想在西班牙找个地方，酿造最好的白酒。我认识很多赫赫有名的资深酿酒人，他们就在西北 Galicia 酿制高品质的白酒。有时间的话，我也想在 Rioja 发展个子计画，就像在 Ribera 经营酒庄一样。我应该会一直待在西班牙吧。再年轻个几十岁，我可想去勃艮地拼拼看，不过对于现在的我来说实在是太遥远了。 spring harvest

TK |

Bompas & Parr Cofounder Harry Parr

flavors

「蒸发」无限创意

a case of the vapors Bompas & Parr are experts in flavor-based experience design, architectural installations, and contemporary food design. Cofounder Harry Parr, who admits his ultimate goal is “global food domination,” talks about his work with Mamie Chen.

§ 从气味实验发想、建筑装置到当代食物设计，皆是「Bompas & Parr」专精的领域。曾发下豪语，要「攻占全球食物版图」的共同创办人Harry Parr特别接受Mamie Chen专访，畅谈两人的创意作品。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

What is a gin and tonic cloud? We use industrial humidifiers to vaporize gin and tonic cocktail into a little room. The humidity increases your ability to perceive flavor, and you are totally immersed in it. You can’t escape it because you have to breathe it in. And it’s livelier than when you just drink from a glass or through a straw. You get a true sense of the gin and all its botanicals. Taste becomes spatialized and the cocktail becomes inhabitable architecture. We’re freeing the cocktail from the glass into the environment, in a very literal way. What was the inspiration for this concept? Antony Gormley had an exhibition in London in 2007. He made a big cloud in a box that people could go into. What was really fascinating is that people’s relationship with each other changed. Because they were in a confined space and couldn’t really see each other, a barrier was lifted and it allowed people to get much closer than they normally would. Sam and I thought it would be much more interesting if it was an alcoholic cloud.

用琴汤尼制成的云是什么？我们搬出工业加湿机，让琴汤尼在小房间内挥发，随着人类感知味道的能力跟着湿度提高，将完全浸淫在琴汤尼的世界中，一呼吸就闻得到，即使想逃也无处可去。相较用酒杯或吸管来喝，更能真实感受琴酒及所用草本素材的滋味。味道充满空间感，调酒也登时成为宜居的建筑，琴汤尼不再囿于杯里，而以如此实在的方式溢满所处环境。计画灵感从何而来？ Antony Gormley 2007 年在伦敦曾举行一场展览，他在箱子内打造一朵大云，参观者可以自由入内。厉害之处在于，一进到里面，人与人的关系会产生变化：因为当人身处狭窄的空间，看不清彼此，所以心防卸下之后，会更容易与人沟通。我们当时就觉得，如果是酒精做的云，一定更有趣。

Tanqueray No. TEN gin and tonic cloud at PMQ, Hong Kong

汤尼水特有的苦涩感觉很熟悉，但却一时认不出琴酒的味道，我自己都非常讶异。很多人都不知道该如何辨认特定的味道，可能是比起视觉语言，我们用来讲述味道或气味的词语过于贫乏。 spring harvest

TK |

The bitterness of the tonic was familiar, but I was surprised that I didn’t recognize the gin. People often don’t know how to recognize specific flavors because our language for flavors or scents is very limited compared to our visual language. The Guinness Storehouse in Dublin asked us to design a walk-through piece that would hero the tasting experience of Guinness. Visitors move through a series of spaces: a dark, twisting corridor that uses optical illusions to make it appear to be shrinking and epic music that builds up as they get closer to the end of the corridor. The doors open with a big whooshing noise, and they enter a shockingly bright space. We’ve basically reset their senses. In the room, there are four fountains creating flavor clouds that represent the key flavors of Guinness: beer, malt, roasted barley, and hops. Each cloud has a different aroma that visitors can smell and even actually taste because it is bound up in the water itself. It is a very pure way to experience flavor. Once they have smelled all four vapors, they are able to drink the Guinness and understand what’s in it.

The Flavour Conductor with Johnnie Walker Blue Label

You’ve mentioned the German expression gesamtkunstwerk, which is like an all-encompassing art form. When we do an event or design a dish, we consider all the senses and absolutely everything going on in someone’s journey through the exhibition. I like it when the experience of flavor and taste is combined with sounds and visuals as well. We recently did a project with Johnnie Walker Blue Label called the Flavour Conductor that effectively tricks people’s minds into perceiving different flavors. We worked with a scientist at Oxford University to prove that we can manipulate sound and color cues to bring out different flavors. We custom-built an organ that played compositions to bring out specific flavors of Johnnie Walker Blue Label whisky. As we

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went through each of the six compositions and colors, different flavors in the whisky became apparent. At the end, it goes up to a crescendo where all the compositions overlap, and the audience is invited to taste all the flavors of the whisky together. It’s a very powerful tool that allows people to experience different complex flavors within a liquid. We’ve talked a lot about alcohol and vapors. What else have you done? One of my favorites was a boating lake

that we built on top of the roof of Selfridges in London. It was a huge logistical challenge because we had to strengthen the roof. We are currently doing a lot of work on bioresponsiveness, trying to get food to change as you eat it. So it might change flavor or color or shape. We’re looking at how the senses are linked together and utilizing neuroscience and projection mapping to make the changes. And we still make hundreds of jellies each week. We really enjoy doing it and we still learn lots each time.

ANN CHARLOTT OMMEDAL (3)

与尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌合作的项目「The Flavour Conductor」

flavors

喝，反正云也都浸在水中。如此体验味道，再纯粹不过。他们闻过四朵气云之后，接着就能品尝健力士啤酒，对于其中成份也有更深入的了解。

德文里的 Gesamtkunstwerk，也就是整体艺术，好像对你也有影响。不管规划活动或设计一道菜，我们都习惯将各种感官纳入考量，当然也包括观展经验中会出现的各种细节。能把味道和味觉体验结合声音及视觉也很不错，我很喜欢。最近和尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌 (Johnnie Walker Blue Label) 合作的计画「The Flavour Conductor」，就是透过心理手法，巧妙引领人们感受不同的味道。我们和牛津大学的科学家合作，也证明了确实可透过声音及颜色操作引发不同的味道。为了这项计画，我们特别订制了管风琴，演奏乐曲以引发尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌的味道。六大曲目及颜色一轮过后，威士忌蕴含的不同味道变得非常鲜明。最后，音乐渐强，所有乐曲交叠，观众也在此时受邀一次品尝威士忌的所有味道。大家得以运用这个好工具，品评各式酒的繁复滋味。

The Guinness Tasting Rooms at the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin

DONAL MURPHY ( TOP), GUINNESS STOREHOUSE (BOTTOM)

都柏林健力士啤酒厂的健力士品酒室

Do you consider yourself more of an artist, or an architect, or a chef? We are experience designers. We use this description because it encompasses so many different things. There is a lot more to what we do than meets the eye, but at the end of the day, it’s about giving people a good time and a great experience. The enjoyment comes first. And if it makes people think and they want to learn more about the research, history, or technology that went into the work, then that’s a bonus.

都柏林的健力士啤酒厂（Guinness Storehouse）曾委托我们设计一个走入式装置，将健力士的味觉体验发挥到极致。参观者会走入一段连续空间：漆黑、扭曲的走道，善用视角错觉原理，看似空间不断压缩，越近出口音乐越磅礴，开门之后，阵阵噪音传来，未及反应便有大片明亮空间映入眼帘，可以说是重新设定他们的感官。进去后只见四座喷泉，各自制造代表健力士四大味道的云：啤酒、麦芽、烘焙大麦及啤酒花。每朵云气味各有不同，访客们可以闻，甚至试

目前谈了许多酒及蒸气，还做过什么其他的计画？我自己最爱的是伦敦塞尔福里奇 (Selfridges) 百货公司楼顶的泛舟湖，当时要想办法强化屋顶结构，确实是一大挑战。目前最花心力的应该是「生物反应」相关计画，让食物入口后产生变化，味道、颜色或形状都有可能改变。我们仔细观察与之连动的感官变化，利用神经科学及轨迹绘图来催化各种可能的变动。当然，每周还是会做出几百个招牌果冻，我们乐在其中，每次都有新发现。您会说自己较像艺术家、建筑师，或是厨师呢？应该算体验的设计师。这样说才足以涵盖不同的面向，我们做了许多尝试，并不限于视觉感受。不过，能否创造出好玩、让人印象深刻的体验才是关键所在。享受是第一优先，如果因而让人思考、萌生想要更进一步认识计画背后的研究、历史或技术，就算锦上添花吧。 spring harvest

TK |

presented by ketel one

明星级餐前酒

illustrious apéritif In the endless debate over the proper constituents of the world’s most popular cocktail, everyone agrees on Ketel One.

THE BLOODY MARY is one of the world’s most iconic – and controversial – mixed drinks. Rich in history and intrigue, countless legends have been spun from the endless possibilities it invites. Nobody and everybody has the formula – beyond, of course, the absolute essentials of tomato juice and the best possible vodka. So when the “Awesome Foursome” of HK-based mixologists meet, you can bet that each of their interpretations will be intensely personal. Their rendezvous point, Duddell’s, stretches over two floors in the heart of Central Hong Kong, a dramatic staircase linking the chic Michelin two-star dining room below with the casual and intimate upstairs salon and library adjacent to a lush garden terrace. Our foursome gather outside to show off the creative talents which have elevated some of the city’s most renowned bars: Marek Vojcarcik at Duddell’s, Neil Rivington at Aberdeen Street Social, Ryan Nightingale at Ham & Sherry, and Tunny Grattidge at Chachawan.

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Left to Right: Ryan Nightingale, Neil Rivington, Marek Vojcarcik and Tunny Grattidge

SPRING HARVEST | TK |

presented by ketel one

The fascinating backstory of the Bloody Mary evolves with each source one consults. Was it named for the phantom from folklore who appears in a mirror, or for the English queen with a thirst for blood? Did it begin in 1942 when Life magazine called it the Red Hammer, or was it born at New York’s 21 Club in the 1930s? The earliest claim is that the drink emerged in the Paris of the ’20s at what came to be called Harry’s New York Bar. One of that institution’s notable habitués, Ernest Hemingway, boasted in a letter that it was he who’d brought the Bloody Mary to Hong Kong in 1941, which he said “did more than any other single factor except perhaps the Japanese Army to precipitate the fall of that Crown Colony.” And of course there is the widespread belief that the cocktail can cure the worst of hangovers, a hotly contested claim that launches the discussion: TUNNY: It has that spice to speed up the metabolism. MAREK: And it replaces everything you’ve lost! The tomato juice and salt provide the minerals. RYAN: It’s a liquid meal and not just a brunch drink – I have it on my menu and people order it at ten in the evening. NEIL: That’s true, you can have it any time of the day. It’s probably the most requested cocktail in the world. Everyone has got their own version, every bar and everybody at home. TUNNY: Some people like spice, people like different things and flavors. NEIL: That’s right, I’ve got a menu with five different versions. MAREK: What’s amazing is that no bartender can make the same Bloody Mary twice. There’s always a little bit more salt or less salt, that’s what I like. If the bartender is good and I’m feeling adventurous, there are so many versions you can try.

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RYAN: It’s almost like a salad – think of all the different ingredients and vegetables you could use in a salad, you can add different dressings, it’s that big of a category now. You can really make it shine. TUNNY: For me the Ketel One brings out the cleanness in all these drinks, there’s not that much alcohol taste, so it just makes everything as fresh and clean as possible. RYAN: And the Citroen brings in the proper citrus notes too. MAREK: What I like is that it’s properly pot-still made so you have the very full flavors of the base. If you’re a customer with a keen nose and you smell it, you can get green watermelon. It’s very pure, there’s no bitterness and it’s easily drinkable on the rocks too. TUNNY: Basically, a Bloody Mary is essential to a cocktail menu. RYAN: That’s right, it deserves at least one whole page in the menu. You need a house Bloody Mary that you stand for, but even if it’s the standard style, it had better stand out! In Canada there’s one which doesn’t work – half vodka and half ketchup – it’s a shot rimmed with celery salt. Outrageous! TUNNY: I made a Borscht Mary in London – it had cabbage, pickles, everything. My Estonian friends loved it, but as soon as anyone else took a sip, they hated it! NEIL: I say if you’re making Bloody Marys at home, be adventurous! If you like certain flavors, use them! RYAN: Find your favorite vegetable or flavor and bring that to the forefront, highlight something you really like. You can always scale up with Bloody Marys. Do a pitcher of it, don’t make them one at a time. MAREK: There’s not even one official, original Bloody Mary recipe. NEIL: Because everyone’s got a different palate. RYAN: That’s the beauty, there’s definitely nothing written in stone!

Ryan’s S’Pain Medication “I work in a Spanish restaurant and can access their pantry, and a lot of their ingredients go well in a Bloody Mary. Here it’s saffron, smoked paprika, thyme salt. No hot sauce. Piquillo peppers give a beautiful color when blended with these spices, and I added a little bit of tomato juice and a drop of Don José Maria Very Old Amontillado Sherry in addition to the Ketel One.” 「我在西班牙餐厅工作，对厨房了若指掌，很多食材用来搭配血腥玛莉效果都很好。这边使用的是番红花、烟熏paprika 红椒粉、百里香盐，不用任何热酱。加入 piquillo舌形椒则有提色作用，混起来颜色很漂亮。再来一点蕃茄汁，最后除了Ketel One，我还会加一滴Don José Maria Very Old Amontillado雪莉酒划下完美句点。」

Neil’s Breakfast “I’m English and work in an English restaurant, so it’s all based on English ingredients – I’m using Ketel One Citroen with English mustard, HP Sauce, Worcestershire, topped off by a soft-boiled quail egg with wholemeal toast and bacon.” 「我是英国人，在英国餐厅工作，所用的也全以英国素材为主:Ketel One Citroen、加上英国芥末、HP 棕酱、Worcestershire黑醋，再覆上软嫩的水煮鹌鹑蛋，搭配全麦吐司及培根便大功告成。」

SPRING HARVEST | TK |

presented by ketel one

全世界最出名、也最受争议的调酒之一，非血腥玛莉莫属。它背后丰富的历史及情节衍生出无限可能，缔造的传奇故事一言难尽，人人心中都有自己的调法，不过蕃茄汁及品质绝佳的伏特加绝对是其中不可或缺的要角。所以当有香港调酒界「神奇四侠」之称的四大调酒师齐聚一堂时，想当然尔，端出来的版本都具有强烈的个人色彩。四侠碰头处「都爹利会馆 (Duddell’s)」座落于香港中环心脏地段，两个楼层由楼梯间相连，从下方米其林二星认证的时尚餐厅延伸到上层较为随性、怡人的沙龙及图书馆空间，往外还有郁郁葱葱的绿色花园露台。四位调酒达人的高超技术让各自所属的酒吧大放异彩，分别是「都爹利会馆」的 Marek Vojcarcik、「Aberdeen Street Social」的 Neil Rivington、「Ham & Sherry」的 Ryan Nightingale 以及来自「Chachawan 」的 Tunny Grattidge。接下来只见四人在户外场地一字排开，准备大展身手。血腥玛莉背后精采绝伦的故事族繁不及备载，端看你查到哪一则 : 是像民间传说镜中倒映鬼魂，抑或嗜血的英格兰女王故事而得名？是从 1942 年美国「生活」杂志称之为「红槌」开始，或是在 30 年代的纽约 21 俱乐部诞生的？最早的起源据说来自 20 年代巴黎一家名为「Harry’s New York Bar」的酒吧，当时的常客之一便是大名鼎鼎的作家海明威。他曾在一封信中自吹自擂，表示自己就是 1941 年把血腥玛莉带到香港的人 : 「血腥玛莉的魅力之大，大概除了日本军队进占能够比拟外，足称是让这块皇家殖民地就此陷落的主因了。」另外，很多人也相信血腥玛莉是最好的解酒剂，到底宿醉喝了有没有用？引发四人热烈讨论 : TUNNY:

里面有种香辣成份能加速新陈

代谢。 MAREK: 还能补充流失的物质！蕃茄汁和盐就是矿物质的来源。 RYAN: 就像液态餐点一样，不只可以用来搭配早午餐而已－我们餐厅菜单有放血腥玛莉，就有客人晚上 10 点就来一杯。 NEIL: 没错，一天当中不管什么时间喝都好，应该算世界上大家最常点的调酒吧。每个人都有自己的调法，每间酒吧、每家调酒师都有各自的版本。

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TUNNY: 有人偏好香呛味重些，不一样的东西及味道大家都有兴趣。 NEIL: 真的是这样，我店里酒单上就有五种不同的版本。 MAREK: 没有调酒师可以连调两次血腥玛莉，味道一模一样的，不是盐多一些、就是少一点，但这正是让我着迷之处。若酒保实力够强，加上我也想冒险一下的话，能够尝试的版本简直多到说不完。 RYAN: 用沙拉来比喻其实也说得通－可以放各种不同食材及蔬菜，沙拉酱选择也很多元，血腥玛丽也是如此，下点功夫确实可以发光发热。 TUNNY: 个人认为 Ketel One 伏特加比起其他基酒，更能引发清澈的口感，酒味不那么重，也得以衬托其他味道，显得更鲜更清。 RYAN: Citroen 则是可以带出恰到好处的柑橘韵味。 MAREK: 我喜欢 Ketel One 是单一蒸馏酿制，作为基酒散发出非常丰厚的风味，品酒客鼻子够灵、闻得出来的话，会有股绿西瓜的香味。它的酒味很纯，不带任何一丝苦味，单加冰角喝也非常顺口。 TUNNY: 总而言之，血腥玛莉在鸡尾酒单上有着「不可取代」的地位。 RYAN: 同意，一整页都放血腥玛莉也不为过。一定要有风格独具的自家版本，即使是经典款，也要做到无懈可击，让人无可挑剔！加拿大有个失败的作法，一杯 shot 加入伏特加和蕃茄酱各半，杯缘抹上芹盐，未免太吓人了！ TUNNY: 我在伦敦调过罗宋汤版血腥玛莉，加了甘蓝、腌黄瓜和各式各样的素材。我来自爱莎尼亚的朋友超爱这个，但其他人都只尝一小口就投降，完全无法接受！ NEIL: 对于想在家调血腥玛莉的人来说，我建议大胆一点没关系！有特别喜欢什么味道就用吧！ RYAN: 找自己爱的蔬菜或味道，当成主调，喜欢什么就强调什么。想喝多一点，按比例增加就好，一次做一大壶都行，不要每次想到才调一点点。 MAREK: 至今也还没大家公认所谓最正统、官方版的血腥玛莉作法。 NEIL: 因为大家味觉都不同。 RYAN: 那正是魅力所在，没有什么是绝对不能变动的！

Marek’s Green Beast “We have a homemade vegetable broth based on broccoli, Chinese spinach, tomatoes, paprika, fennel, and basil for freshness. I use wasabi instead of Tabasco, then we blend and double strain it. As a base we have Ketel One Citroen which gives light flavors and pairs well with our lemon pepper.” 「我们熬了一锅花椰菜为底的蔬菜高汤，空心菜、蕃茄、paprika红椒粉、茴香及用来提鲜的巴西里。我另以日式芥末取代Tabasco，充分混和再经二次过滤即可。基酒选用Ketel One Citroen，味道较淡，和柠檬椒盐搭配的恰到好处。」

Tunny’s Som Tum to Thai For “It has large and small Thai green peppers, red Thai pepper, fish sauce, fresh Chinese celery, toasted rice, pepper, Tabasco, and Thai basil leaves with the Ketel One. You can pair it with most of our menu at Chachawan, and it goes very well with our clam dish.” 「酒中可见大小颗粒的泰国绿胡椒、红泰国椒、鱼露、新鲜中国芹、烤米粒、胡椒、Tabasco、泰国巴西里叶再加上Ketel One，味道百搭，在Chachawan几乎每道菜都能搭配，尤其是蛤蛎料理，特别对味。」

SPRING HARVEST | TK |

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS 1/5 nuevo 208 Duecento Otto 22 Ships 798 Unit & Co - JAR 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana A Touch of Spice Adagio Agehan agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung San House, Cityplaza, Devon House, Fashion Walk) agnès b. le pain grillé Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Akita Al Bistro Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar - TST Al Dente (Great Eagle Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, SoHo) Al Molo Ristorante Italiano All Night Long Al's Diner Amante Amber Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill Amina Italian and Oyster Restaurant AMMO Amore Italian Restaurant ANA Oyster & Grill Angel's Share Another Fine Day An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria Antipasto Antique Patisserie Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Applegreen CWB Applegreen TST Ayuthaiya Caffe Greco La Marmite Arima Teppanyaki Aropa Azure Baby Blue Cafe & Bar Bacar Bahama Mama's Caribbean Bar Banker Whisky and Wine Bar Barg Barista Jam Bella Vita Bellaria Berliner German Bar and Restaurant Bicho Biergarten Big Tree Pub Bistecca Italian Steak House Bistro Bamboo Bistrot Le Fauchon Bit Point Black stump Australian Grill & bar Bloom BLT Burger BLT Steak Blue Lemon café & wine bar Bo Innovation Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar Bo-Lo'gne Bombay Dreams Bonheur Bouchon Bistro Francais Bourbon Brasserie Le Fauchon Brat

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Bricklane Brivo Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant Brunch Club Bulldog's Bar & Grill Cafe by the Park Cafe Deco Cafe Elite Cafe Eos Club Cafe Gray Deluxe Café Iguana Café Locomotive Café Loisl Café Muse Cafe O Café on the 1st Cafe Rivoli Cafe TOO Cafe Zambra Cammino Caprice Carousel Fine Cake & Pastries Carpaccio Casa Fina Casa Lisboa Portuguese Restaurant & Bar Casablanca Oyster Steak Restaurant Cecconi's Italian Census Lounge Cepage C'est la B Chesa Chez Moi Chez Patrick Deli Chez Shibata Chikayaki Chilli Fagara Chocolate Chum Chum Mi CIN CIN Ristorante Circle Oyster Classified Mozzarella Bar Classified The Cheese Room Club Chow Club de Flavor Club Havana coast Cocky Bar Cova Café - Admiralty Cova Café - Lee Gardens Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria Cova Ristorante & Caffe Coyote Bar & Grill Craftsteak Cuisine Cuisine - IFC Cutty Sark Da Ping Huo Daddyos Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill Dap Modern European Restaurant Delaney's Wanchai Délifrance Devil's Advocate Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Domani Ristorante Double Happiness Café Duetto Dynasty - Wanchai Eat Right edo & bibo Oyster & Steak House EL CID Spanish Restaurant El Pomposo Estudio F.A.B French - American Bistro Fandango Spanish Restaurant Fat Angelo's

TK | spring harvest

Felix FINDS Fish Bar & Grill Flame at Towngas Avenue Fleur de Sel Flute Bar Flutes Champagne and Cocktail Bar Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai Forum Restaurant Fresh Café & Bar Frites Belgium on Tap Fu Ho Restaurant - TST Fuel Espresso Full/half Gaddi's Gaia Ristorante Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gemini glo restaurant + lounge Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Gokayama Gold By Harlan Goldstein Grand Central Bar & Grill Grappa's Ristorante Grecoπ Green Grill Cafe Handle Bar Harbour Restaurant Hard Rock Café Harlan's Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar Hoi King Heen Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk Restaurant Holly Brown Hong Kong University Alumni Association Hooray Bar & Restaurant HOUSE il meglio Ristorante di Venezla Il Moro iL Posto 97 Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - Causeway Bay Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - TST Island Tang Isola Italian No.5 Iwanami Jaa Kitchen Japas Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Jimmy's Kitchen Joe Bananas Joe's Billiards & Bar Joia Kaiko Teppanyaki Katte Shabushabu King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, Wanchai) Kitchen 65 Kitchen M Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar Kosyu Kowloon Tang KYOTO JOE L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon La Bodega La Bon Restaurant & Lounge La Bon’s Café la brezza café La Cantoche La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar LA Creperie La Cucina Italiana La Maison

La Pampa La Parole La Serene Caffè La TASCA La Terrasse l'altro Lattitude 22⁰ LaVilla TST Lawry's the Prime Rib Le Café Le Gouter Bernardaud (ICC, IFC) Le Marron Le Mieux Bistro Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant Galerie) Le Salon Restaurant et Croissanterie Le Souk Lei Garden - IFC Life Lil' Siam Limehouse Linguini Fini Lobby Lounge Louis' Steak House Lung King Heen LUPA LUX Bistro & Bar Magnolia Mangrove Bar & Restaurant Marlin Mask of Si Chuen McSorley's Ale House Merhaba Mes Amis Metropolitan Café Ming Court Mini Dans la Ville Mirror MiSet Restaurant Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining Moon Thai Mr. Steak Grill Ms B's Cakery Munch Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Nahm Vietnamese & Thai Nan Tei Nepal Nicholini's Nico's Oceanna Okaki Ole Spanish Restaurant Oliver's Super Sandwiches (Cheong Kong Centre, Hong Kong Station) Oliver's Super Sandwiches Melbourne Plaza One-Thirtyone Only Buonasera Oolaa Oolaa petite Orange Tree Restaurant Otto Restaurant & Bar OWL Our Wonderland Oysters Bar & Restaurant Papa Razzi Papi Pastis Bistro Francais Peace Square Peak Café Bar Pearl on the Peak Peking Garden Restaurant Pepino Italian Restaurant Petrus Pier 7 Cafe & Bar Pierre PizzaExpress, Central PizzaExpress, Wanchai Pizzazaza Podium Cafe Portobello Posto Pubblico

PRIME steakhouse Red Bar & Restaurant Red Rock Bar & Grill Rei Restoration Rex Caffe Roka Rouge Royal Feast Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen Ruth's Chris Steak House Sabatini Ristorante Italiano Sabor Spanish Touch Private Kitchen Sahara Mezz Bar Sakaegawa Japanese Resaturant Sake Bar GINN Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar Scirocco Serenade Sevva Shanghai Fraternity Association Shanghai Jade Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo Shore Steak Shui Hu Ju Simplylife Bakery Cafe Simplylife Bread & Wine SML Social House Socialito SoHo Spice Vietnamese & Thai Solas Sole mlo Sorriso Italian Cuisine Spasso Italian bar SPICE Spicy Fingers Spoil Cafe Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon St.George Star Restaurant Starz Wine Bar Staunton's Wine Bar & Café Steik World Meats Stone's Stormies Studio City Studio Nineteen Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar Summer Palace Sunning Restaurant Sushi Hiro Sushi Imamura Sushi Kuu Sushi Shin T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar Tai Ping Koon Restaurant Tandoor T'ang Court Taste Tate Dining Room & Bar Teppanyaki Kaika Tequila Jack's Thai Orchids Café & Bar KLN Bay Thai Orchids Café & Bar Mongkok The Box The Dutch Cheese and More The Fifties The Flying Pan The French Window The Globe The Great Indian Kebab Factory The Junk Pub The Lobby The Lotus The Parlour The Pawn

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CLUBHOUSES United Services Recreation Club Pacific club HK Bartender's & Sommelier's Association Aberdeen Marina Club American Club - Hong Kong Country Club American Club - Town Club Asia Golf Club Caldecott Hill Chinese Recreation Club Continental Club Craigengower Cricket Club Discovery Bay Recreation Club Fairview Park Country Club Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Gold Coast Resident's Club House Gold Coast Yacht and Country Club Harbour Front Club House Hebe Haven Yacht Club Hong Kong Country Club Hong Kong Cricket Club Hong Lok Yuen Country Club Kerry Property Management services Ltd

TK" WHERE TO FIND TK 《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

(15 Homantin Hill, Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, November Tower I & II, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, Valverde) Kowloon Tong Club Macau Jockey Club Marina Club Discovery Bay Marina Cove Club Mariners' Club (The Narubers Club) Mission Hills Golf Club Orient Express No. 8 Club Bel Air Pacific Club Palais Monaco Premier Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Shek O Golf Country Club The Beverly Hills (Resident's Clubhouse) The China Club The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, HK The Cullinan The Ellipsis The Foreign Correspondents' Club Hong Kong The Hong Kong Golf Club Deep Water Bay The Kowloon Club The Kowloon Cricket Club The Novemberfair The Palazzo Derby Three Bays Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse

WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. Concord Fine Wines Limited Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited Delish Hong Kong Wine Vault Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited - Admiralty, Wanchai, TST, Kwai Chung Limitless Holdings Limited Monsieur Chatté, Sheung Wan Monsieur Chatté, Elements Pan-Handler Portrait Winemakers & distillers Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Queensway Wine Sino Vantage Asia Limited Valentino Chocolatier - Sai Kung Valentino Chocolatier Wanchai

HOTELS City Garden Hotel Conrad International Hong Kong Cosmopolitan Hotel Courtyard By Marriott Hong Kong Crowne Plaza HK CWB Hotel Eaton Hotel Hong Kong Eaton House Excelsior Hotel Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Harbour Grand Hong Kong Harbour Grand Kowloon Harbour Plaza North Point Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel Hong Kong Marriott Hotel Hotel Icon

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AIRLINE LOUNGES CNAC Lounge Dynasty Lounge Emirate Lounge Emirates Airlines-BKK Lounge Hong Kong Lounge Morning Calm ( Korean Air) Red Carpet Lounge (UA) Royal Orchid Lounge SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) The Traveller's Lounge EAST The Traveller's Lounge WEST Virgin Clubhouse Hong Kong Jet Jet Aviation Buisness Jets Metrojet Limited BAA - Business Aviation Asia Ltd

VANGO Wanchai North Point Ho Man Tin Kwun Tong Lok Fu Shatin Tin Shui Wai Kwai Chung Chai Wan Kwun Tong TST Saigon Tuen Mun Happy Vally Lok Fu Tai Kok Tsui Tin Shui Wai Yuen Long Tai Po

BOOKSHOPS Mandarin Oriental Kiosk Bookazine (Discover Bay, Canton House, Ifc Mall, Harbor City, Kowloon, Prince Building, Central, Shui On) Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, Lyndhurst Terrace, Harbor City, Kowloon, Bonham Road, Repulse Bay, Hopewell Centre, Citygate) Beachside Books Hits Media Center Kubrick Bookstore & Cafe Metrobook (Elements, Kowloon, Mikki, Langham Place) Nobletimes Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Wong Tai Sin) Swindon Book Co. Ltd. Cham Kee Tung Son Yung Kee Great Food Park N' Shop (Baguia Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean Coast, Citygate, Clearwater, Cyberport, East Point City, Forview Heights, Festival Walk, Happy Valley, Hong Lok Yuen, Horizon Suite Hotel, Jardine Lookout, Kennedy Town, Metroplaza, Metropolis, New Hopewell Centre, Peak Road, Shouson Hill, South Horizons, Stanley Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau Temple)

MACAU HOTELS Altira Macau Crown Tower Galaxy Macau Galaxy Macau - Banyan Tree Macau Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura Grand Hyatt Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Hard Rock Hotel Hotel Lisboa Hotel San Tiago Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Sands Cotai Central Sofitel Macau StarWorld Hotel Wynn Macau

RESTAURANTS A Petisqueira 360° Café 38 Lounge A Lorcha ABA Bar Akasaka Café Albergue 1601 Amore Café Angela’ cafe Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Ao Grama Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu

Banyan Lounge Banza Restaurante Bar Azul BarCelona Tapas & Rice Bar Florian Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Cabana Café Bela Vista Cafe Bleisure Cafe Voyage Café Deco Café Lan Café Litoral Café of 4 Cafe Ou Mun Café Panorama Café Siam Caffé Toscana Camoes Restaurant Cascades Catalpa garden shanghainese restaurant China Rouge Chill Cafe City Café Clube Militar de Macau Coffee Shop Conrad the Loung Copa Steakhouse Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Cuppa Coffee Bakery and Coffeeshop Don Quijote Edo Japanese Restaurants Feast Festiva Fogo samba Fortune Inn Restaurant Frangi's Grill Ginza Kaiten Sushi Gold Coast Oyster and Seafood Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Grand Imperial Court Grand Orbit Hana Hana Café Hayyo Henri's Gallery Hero Chinese Restaurant Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge Hotel Royal Lobby Lounge il Cafe Illy Coffee Imperial Court Inagiku Indian Garden Restaurant Irish Bar Jasper Café Jade Dragon Jade Garden Jin Yue Xuan Kafka Sweets & Gourmandises Kam Lai Heen King of Kings Restaurant Kira Klasic Kafe Kwun Hoi Heen La Bonne Keure French Cuisine La Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa Café La Paloma Lan L'Arc Lounge Laurel (@Galaxy) Laurel (@Starworld) Lax Café Le Cesar Lei Garden

Lemongrass Macau Thai Café Lord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Restaurant Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Ale House Men Mung Seafood Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie Mistral MJ Café MO Lobby Lounge + Cake Shop Modern Thai Monsoon Morton's Steakhouse Mugs Talk Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Restaurant Nagomi Lobby Bar & Lounge Nana Café Lounge O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Shanghai Restaurant Old Taipa Tavern Osgatos Pacific Coffee (COD, Galaxy Macau, Sands Cotai Centra, The Residencia) Pak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge Pearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria Toscana Poker Café Portal Wine Bar Prive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurant Litoral Restaurante Escada Restaurante Fernando Restaurante Vinha Rossio Royal Orchid Russian Room Saffron Sakazuki Sake Bar Savory Crab Seasons Hot Pot Shanghainese 456 Shiki Hot Pot & Seafood Restaurant (@ L'Arc) Smile House Singing Bean Single Origin-pourover and espresso bar Sky 21 Spice Garden Square 8 Starbucks (@ AIA Tower) Starbucks (@Galaxy Macau) Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP lounge Talay Thai Restaurant Tang's Cuisine Temptations Tenmasa Terra cafe Terrace Restaurant Terrazza Italian Dining Terrence The Chinese Restaurant The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Lounge The Macallan Whisky Bar The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Seasons The Tasting Room by Galliot The Windsor

Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda Vasco Vida Rica Bar Vida Rica Restaurant Wave Whisky Bar Windows Restaurant Xin Yamazato Ying Yuzu Zi Yat Heen

CLUBHOUSES Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Pacific Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKING Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd. Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Pacific Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

SPAS Grand Lapa Spa Six Senses Spa MO The Spa Royal Thai Spa Malo Clinic Spa Four Seasons Spa Bodhi Spa Altira Spa Banyan Tree Spa Rock Spa Isala Spa Crown the Spa

TRANSIT Air Macau Jet Asia Macau Jet Burgeon Rent a car Avis Turbojet Xunlong

spring harvest

TK |

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TK | SPRING HARVEST

RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social

Grassroots Pantry 豆苗居

Bar and Lounge 5/F, Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Hong Kong 香港旺角上海街555号香港旺角朗豪酒店5楼 q +852 3552 3028 Mon to Thur: 08:00-01:00 Fri, Sat Sun & PH: 08:00-02:00 A Smart Casual

Aurora 奥罗拉 Italian 10/F, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路澳门新濠锋10楼 q +853 2886 8868 Tue to Sat: 12:00-14:00; 18:30-22:30 Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:30 A Smart Casual

12 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong 香港西营盘福寿里12号 q +852 2873 3353

Tue to Sat: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:00 Sun: 10:00-16:00 A Casual

Jade Dragon誉珑轩 5

Chinese-Cantonese 2/F The Shops at the Boulevard, City of

Belon贝隆

Vegetarian

Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道2楼 q +853 8868 2822

Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

Gentlemen are required to wear anklelength trousers with closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome.

European 31/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门悦榕庄31楼 q +853 8883 6090 Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: Wed to Mon: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

Children aged below six years are

Duddell’s 都爹利会馆

q +66 (0)2 119 4899

Chinese Levels 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环都爹利街1号上海滩3至4楼 q +852 2525 9191 Mon to Thu: 12:00-00:00; Fri to Sat: 12:00-01:00; Sun: 12:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

welcome to dine at the private dining room.

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain 5

Duphli Thung Maha Mek Sub-district Sathorn District, Bangkok 10120, Thailand Daily: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30

Feng Wei Ju风味居 Hunanese and Sichuanese 5/F, StarWorld Hotel, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店5楼 q +853 8290 8668 Daily: 11:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Gaggan Progressive Indian 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Bangkok, 10330 q +66 2 652 1700 Daily: 18:00-23:00 A Smart casual 5

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TK | spring harvest

French U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam

A Smart Casual

Lugang Cafe 鹿港小镇 5

Taiwanese G128, G/F, Galaxy Macau,Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综合渡假城地下G128 q +853 8883 2221

Daily: 24 hours A Casual

Myung Ga 名家 5

Korean G015, G/F, Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综合渡假城地下G015 q +853 8883 2221

Daily: 11:00-23:00 A Casual

NAAM Thai Restaurant 蘫泰国餐厅 Al Fresco Thai Grand LAPA Macau, 956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路956-1110号澳门金丽华酒店 q +853 8793 4818 Tue to Sun: 12:00-14:30 ; 18:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Nur Western 3rd Floor, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环摆花街1号广场3楼 q +852 2871 9993 Mon to Sat: 18:30-01:00 A Smart casual 5

The Pawn Modern British 62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港庄士敦道62号 q +852 2866 3444 Mon to Fri: 12:00-01:00 Sat - Sun: 11:00-01:00 A Smart casual 5

RIVA and The Deck RIVA 餐厅及露天平台 International 27/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号柏宁酒店27楼 q +852 2839 3327 Daily: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-00:00 A Smart Casual 5

Tate Dining Room & Bar French Cuisine 59, Elgin Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环苏豪伊利近街59号 q +852 2555 2172 Mon to Sat: 18:00-23:00 A Smart casual 5

Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐厅 Chinese & Western Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门文华东方酒店澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路 q +853 8805 8918 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

“Plating is very important to us,” says Peggy Chan, chef and owner of Grassroots Pantry. One example is her carefully composed deconstruction of blueberry cheesecake, a visually arresting arrangement of mousse-like blueberry filling, tangy coconut cream, juicy blueberry compote, and almond date crumble standing in for the usual graham cracker crust. It’s a cheesecake in name only—like much of Chan’s food, this dish is raw, gluten-free, and vegan. 豆苗居餐厅创办人及行政总厨陈碧琪表示：「摆盘对我们而言实在至关重要。」这道充满解构主义风格的蓝莓芝司蛋糕便是一例，其中有蓝莓慕斯以及香气扑鼻的椰子奶油、多汁的蓝莓果酱，再洒上全麦饼干上常见的杏仁与枣子细碎颗粒，虽然名为蓝莓芝士蛋糕，但实质上却大不相同，而且这道美味点心就如同陈总厨大部分的作品一样，都是天然原味、不含麸质的全素料理。

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TK | spring harvest

DAVID HARTUNG

dessert

TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

(Th

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en pe www.bugholzm r.27, öb el. at

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