TK18 Formosa Influence

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 18

K I T C H E N

F O R M O S A I N F L U E N C E

TAICHUNG

Sparkling Aspirations 追尋耀眼的渴望 YILAN The Sorcerer Chang 酿酒魔术师 SINGAPORE Eat His Words 八角哲学

DAVID HARTUNG

STARTER

At Bulau Bulau Aboriginal Village near Yilan, Taiwan, ingredients for the day’s lunch are grown ​ and harvested on village farms without the use of pesticides or fertilizer. This baked yam is served simply with salt and a slice of ginger and is best enjoyed with a cold cup of the local millet wine. 采访当日午餐食材均来自台湾宜兰县附近的原住民不老部落农地，于栽种及采收过程完全不使用农药或肥 料。此一烘烤地瓜仅搭配盐及一纸姜片上桌，再附上地方酿制的冷小米酒一杯，就是​​简单的好滋味。

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T A S T I N G

K I T C H E N

F O R M O S A I N F L U E N C E

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Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 1001, Apec Plaza, 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

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DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Annabel Jackson

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EDITOR

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HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 18

K I T C H E N

F O R M O S A I N F L U E N C E

TAICHUNG

Sparkling Aspirations 追尋耀眼的渴望 YILAN

The Sorcerer Chang 酿酒魔术师

Chef André Chiang presents a version of his favorite dish, his mom’s pig ear salad, at his restaurant Raw in Taipei. The ears are crispy outside, tender and collagenous inside. Peak summer greens surround: spring onions, French beans, wild fern, asparagus, and sweet peas, with dehydrated leeks dusted over all. For more on Chef Chiang see page 36. 厨师江振诚在台北餐厅「Raw」展现自己最爱的一道菜－母亲的猪耳朵沙 拉改良版。猪耳朵外脆内软，富含胶质，搭配各式夏季时蔬：青葱、四季 豆、野蕨、芦笋、甜豆，以及满满的乾葱。更多主厨江振诚相关报导，请 见第36页。

SINGAPORE

Eat His Words 八角哲学

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen 2015 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Formosa Influence, TK celebrates the greatest among Taiwanese chefs, malt masters, and restaurateurs, those working in Taiwan as well as the Taiwanese culinary diaspora across Asia.

We start in Taichung at the restaurant named the S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Taiwan for the past two years, led by Asia’s Best Female Chef 2015.

In Yilan we talk with an award-winning malt master whose single malts recently earned top honors at the World Whiskies Awards, and we learn about the challenges of distilling spirits in a tropical climate. Early the next morning at a nearby harbor, we join the exciting bluefin tuna auction that supplies many top restaurants across Taiwan and Japan. Then we ascend the neighboring mountains to spend a day with an aboriginal tribe that has resurrected an earlier way of life focused on sustainability, community, and living off the land.

Traveling to Singapore, we visit Taiwan’s most internationally celebrated chef to explore his unusual culinary philosophy and flexible approach, one which includes ordering the freshest seasonal products from suppliers each day without ever knowing exactly what he’ll receive.

In Hong Kong we find out how a Taiwanese chef who has won acclaim in Australia draws his inspiration from Hong Kong’s cha chaan tengs as well as 1960s New York Chinatown.

Back in Taipei, chefs at two innovative new restaurants reveal how they build their avant-garde menus around local, seasonal Taiwanese produce. And in the middle of the night we stop by Taiwan’s largest fruit and vegetable market, where 40 percent of the country’s total daily produce is auctioned off between three and six each morning.

Finally, we spend a relaxed afternoon at one of the capital’s luxury hotels to see how a chef from Hong Kong is reinventing the best of Cantonese cuisine for Taiwanese tastes.

Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Home Cooking • 12 Tradition Made Modern • 14 You Eat What You Are • 18 No Borders 22 Food in 3D • 24 Raising the Bar • 32 Good Fortune for Your Mouth • 36 Eat His Words 44 Humble to Haute • 54 Sparkling Aspirations • 62 Imperial Inspirations • 68 Market Day

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CONTENTS

78 A Sense of Place • 90 Choice Spot • 92 Freshness Fine-tuned • 94 Great British Beef 98 Passion and Purity • 102 Freshness with Finesse • 104 One Fish, Two Fish • 114 Yilan’s Eden 124 Nostalgia and Surprise • 128 Bridging the Gap • 130 The Sorcerer Chang 142 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 144 D E S S E R T

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INSPIRED LIVING

雅室厨物

home cooking Taking its name from the Chinese word for home, Taiwan’s JIA Inc. produces luxury cookware inspired by Asian philosophy and culinary culture. The company has landed numerous design awards, not surprising given its collaboration with top designers who know what it takes to make a home kitchen really cook. 台湾品牌「品家家品 (JIA Inc.)」名称发想自中文字的 「家」 ，以东方理念及亚洲烹饪文化为灵感，打造各式奢 华厨具。「品家家品」与一流设计师合作，制作各式家 庭厨房开伙的良伴，至今网罗无数设计奖项。 JIA Rice Dinnerware 纷雪碗盘系列 German ceramics design studio Laura Straßer preserves an ancient Chinese technique in the production of this rice grain porcelain, characterized by its refined, semi-translucent finish. Seemingly delicate, the pieces are surprisingly sturdy and are meant for daily use. 剔透米通瓷的古中国制作技术，透过德国陶 瓷Laura Straßer设计工作室再现，质感细致 不变，质地却更为坚实，适合日常使用。 JIA Wok Group 家常味铁锅及配件 Hong Kong-based Office for Product Design is behind this award-winning wok set – it took home honors in Taiwan’s Golden Pin Design Award and Germany’s Red Dot and iF Awards. The designers chose to combine carbon and stainless steel with magnolia wood to create kitchen products that are both functional and beautiful. 勇夺台湾「金点设计奖」、德国「红点」及「iF」 设计大奖，家常味铁锅及配件融合碳钢、不锈 钢及木兰木打造，功能性及美观均无懈可击。 Wok (铁锅): HKD1,580 Utensils (配件): HKD240–HKD330 per item

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HKD120–HKD450

Kkini Bowl & Chopsticks Kkini 惬-碗筷组 One of three in a series, this set was created in collaboration with famed South Korean designer Seung Yong Song and was inspired by the traditional stone bowl or dolsot. 惬为三大碗筷系列之一，以传统韩式石锅(dolsot)为 灵感，特与韩国新锐设计师宋承容共同精心打造。 HKD590

Rice Tea Box 纷雪品茗茶具和茶盒组 Inspired by outdoor tea tastings of the Song and Ming dynasties, the box was designed in-house to blend elements of East and West. A delicate porcelain tea set is contained in a bamboo and maple carrier reminiscent of a wicker picnic hamper. 灵感来自宋、明两代盛行的户外品茗 风气，融合东方及西方元素。精致陶 瓷茶组装盛于竹子及枫木盒中，仿若 让人想起柳枝把手的大野餐篮。

COURTESY OF JIA INC (4)

HKD3,600

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一盏清茗酬知音

tradition made modern

CiCHi Life, founded by Taiwanese firm Afterain Design, preserves Eastern traditions through the best in contemporary

§ 台湾天晴设计团队创立的生活品牌「喜器(CiCHi Life)」以一流当代设计，保存各式东方传统。

Tea & Wine Cup

Twins Dish

Feng Cha Set

茶酒杯

双圆盘

奉茶

It is a venerable Chinese tradition to offer refreshment to one’s guests, a little wine or a warming cup of tea. CiCHI’s Tea & Wine Cup holds both hot and cold drinks, and when flipped over, it will accommodate tea, wine, or beer. The ingenious design won the company a coveted Design Mark in 2014 from Taiwan’s premier design honor, the Golden Pin Design Award. Stackable and made from an especially durable plastic, the cups are perfect on picnics or for alfresco dining on the terrace.

CiCHi designers collaborated with noted Taiwanese seal-carving artist Ke Shih-An to create the relief characters in the center of each of these joined ceramic plates. The words chosen have often been used as traditional blessings in Chinese culture: Ping an means something close to “safe and sound,” and tuan yuan expresses a wish for the reunion of family and friends. A small dish fits where the two plates cross and is meant to hold spices or dipping sauces, making the set ideal for serving starters.

The term feng cha refers to an ancient Taiwanese tradition of hospitality. In times past people would place a chair and a pot of tea under a tree along the roadside. All who passed by were welcome to help themselves and take a rest. Bringing this spirit of graciousness into the modern age, CiCHi has reinvented the custom with their Feng Cha tea service. Made of ceramic, pine wood, brass, and iron, the design is meant to encourage the weary to make some tea and put their feet up.

中国人习惯以些许甘醇美酒或一杯回甘暖 茶待客，以示尊重。 「喜器」茶酒杯装盛 热茶冷饮两相宜，只要一翻转，盛茶、装葡 萄酒或啤酒均可。此创意设计备受肯定，荣 获台湾2014年金点设计标章的作品。茶酒 杯以耐用塑胶材质制成，可叠起收纳，是 野餐或外阳台露天聚餐的最佳拍档。

「喜器」设计团队与台湾知名篆刻艺术家柯诗 安合作，为双盘盘中创作吉祥词汇。雀屏中选 的文字为中国文化中给与祝福常用的两组词： 「平安」意即「安全及健在」；「团圆」则表 达对与家人及朋友聚首的殷切期盼。双盘交会 处的凹槽尚有一小盘，形状服贴，可放辛香料 或沾酱，让双圆盘成为装盛前菜的不二选择。

「奉茶」一词体现旧时台湾社会充满浓浓人情 味的传统，当时人们习惯在路边树下摆张椅 子及一壶茶水，供过往路人稍事休憩时自行取 用。 「喜器」推出奉茶组，想在现代社会再 现此一无私情操，重新演绎奉茶文化。奉茶 组以陶瓷、松木、铜及铁等素材打造，希望让 疲劳的人们停下脚步煮些茶，好好歇息一番。

NTD500

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NTD3,600

(approx. HKD902)

NTD3600

(approx. HKD902)

COURTESY OF CICHI LIFE

design.

INSPIRED LIVING

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品味人生

you eat what you are An artist turns the many ways we prepare and consume food into an exploration of love and happiness in ordinary lives.

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

CHI-YU LIAO fondly describes her island homeland of Taiwan as “a paradise of food.”

So it’s not surprising that all things edible, as well as the everyday social interactions surrounding food, feature in many of her artworks. “Food is not simply what we physically live on,” she says. “It reflects desire, geography, culture, and history.” But rather than being the primary subject matter of her work, food, along with the culture it engenders, is employed by Liao as a tool to represent and explore the range of emotions, memories, family values, status, and gender relations she experiences and observes in daily life.

Growing up, Liao spent a lot of time in the kitchen, and her fascination with food culture stems directly from her family life.

“From my grandma to my mom to me, most of the female members of my family are very good cooks,” she says. “The ritual of eating plays an important role with us – it’s part of our heritage. We always spent a great deal of time preparing food, and simply gathering together for a meal became a special tradition in our family.” It was during these times that she realized how closely food was related to human emotions: “When we were in a good mood, we’d think about what our expected guests’ favorite foods might be, or what would make the meal even better, or which special dishes would make everybody feel the happiest.”

Throughout Liao’s series of videos, ordinary characters, usually women played by her, are depicted in often elaborate, sometimes absurd, tableaux vivants. In Mega-Rich Breakfast , a girl with painted-on eyes and an eerie sweet smile prepares a meal in an outfit reminiscent of a 1950s housewife or a Japanese anime character. In Picnic , butterflies gently flit around a cornucopia of flowers and fruit held in the arms of a demure young woman, and then suddenly, big black flies circle above a blanket adorned with flowers, fruit, rainbow candy, and sticky sweet biscuits. In Miss Nice-Looking , a vapid, doll-faced couple sit across the table from each other, clumsily cooking food in a toaster oven.

FOOD AND ART

Chi-Yu Liao 廖祈羽

FORMOSA INFLUENCE | TK |

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FOOD AND ART

→ Twinkle Series: Chun-Mei, Lucy, Elena ← Mega Rich Breakfast 超营养早餐 ↙ Picnic 野餐 ↓ Miss Nice-looking 好看小姐

At first glance, her vibrant scenes sparkle with life, color, and humor, but as the narrative progresses, the viewer is drawn into darker and increasingly uncomfortable worlds. “My images are vivid and sometimes a little surreal,” says Liao, “but the main point is the contrast between their beauty and the tension, cruelty, and violence in real life.” Through the exaggerated actions and jarring juxtapositions in her works, Liao ultimately hopes that her audience will discover underlying story lines of human happiness and true love, just as she herself did on those evenings spent in the kitchen of her childhood. “Things so simple as what we eat and why we eat what we do,” Liao remarks, “really are worthy of discussion.”

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艺术家廖祈羽称家乡台湾为「美食天堂」 ，无 怪乎一切食物，以及因食物产生的日常互动 场景，都能成为她作品的主角。她强调 ： 「进 食不仅满足生理需求，还反应了欲望、地理 环境、文化及历史。 」除了在创作里扮演要角 之外，食物 – 加上衍生的文化，也是廖祈羽 用来呈现、探索情感、记忆、家庭价值、位 阶及性别关系的媒介，都是她在生活中体验 及观察的心得。 从小到大，廖祈羽花了不少时间待在厨 房，对食物文化如此着迷与家里背景密不可 分。她说 ： 「奶奶、妈妈到我自己，廖家几乎 所有女性都是厉害的大厨，对我们来说吃饭 是重要的大事，这是家族传统的一部分。在 我们家，准备食物通常得花上很多时间，全 员团聚用餐对每个人而言有着特殊的意义。 」 直至最近，她渐渐体悟到食物与人类情感紧 密的关联 ： 「心情好的时候，会为即将上门的 客人着想，想说他们最爱吃什么、餐点怎么 做更好吃、 或出什么特别菜色大家会最开心。 」 综观她一系列的录像作品，通常是自己 扮演的平凡女性角色，精心打扮、有时怪异， 甚或以活人画一般的风格入镜。 「超营养早 餐」中，只见一个女孩脸上画上两颗大眼睛， 挂着诡异微笑准备餐点，穿着让人想起 50 年 代的主妇或日本的动画角色。 「野餐」作品里 则是一位娴雅少妇怀抱着装满花果的羊角篮， 蝴蝶在身旁萦绕飞舞，霎时风云变色，出现 巨大的黑色苍蝇群，在遍布鲜花、水果、七 彩棒棒糖及黏腻甜饼干的野餐巾上盘旋不去。 而「好看小姐」里有一对毫无人味、人偶般 面孔的女子各据餐桌一边，坐看彼此，笨手 笨脚地用小烤箱烤东西。 乍 看 之 下， 作 品 场 景 生 气 十 足， 充 满 生活、色彩及幽默激荡的火花，然而随着叙 事往下，观者发现自己逐渐进入阴暗、让人 越趋不适的世界。廖祈羽自我剖析 ： 「我的 影 像 鲜 明， 有 时 带 点 超 现 实 的 感 觉， 不 过 描绘出如此美景，与生活中的紧张、残酷及 IMAGES COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

暴力现实面进行强烈比对才是我的重点所 在。 」藉由作品中夸大的动作及冲突感十足 的错置安排，她希望引领观众一探人类幸福 及真爱背后深层的故事，就像她小时候在自 家厨房度过的无数夜晚一样。她表示 ： 「正 如我们吃什么、为什么吃自己做的菜，这些 大家认为是习以为常、再简单不过的事其实 真的值得深入探究。 」

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DESIGN

无边界美学

no borders A chef whose work spans the globe calls on top talent to create a special space for his own hometown.

COURTESY OF RAW (2)

HE DEBUTED IN SINGAPORE in 2010 with

Restaurant André, recently named fifth among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. He launched Porte 12 in Paris last year. And now, internationally celebrated chef André Chiang has returned to his roots in Taiwan.

In the fall of 2014 he opened his latest venue in the Zhongshan district of Taipei, a bistronomy restaurant named Raw. To come up with an exciting concept for the interior, Chiang commissioned the multiaward-winning design firm Weijenberg, based in Singapore and headed by Dutch designer and architect Camiel Weijenberg.

The design consultations, which began in late 2013, were not the first time Weijenberg had partnered with a top chef to create a unique interior. The firm had previously worked with Michelin-starred Nuno Mendes on Corner Room, a thirty-seat restaurant in East London, and with Jason Atherton on The Study and The Library bar in Singapore.

Most recently, Weijenberg designed Andrew Walsh’s new restaurant, Cure.

At Raw, Chiang wanted to offer experimental haute cuisine with highest quality ingredients at reasonable prices, in line with

他，2010 年于新加坡初试啼声，创立的首 间餐厅「Restaurant André」于最近公布的 2015 年亚洲 50 大最佳餐厅中高据第 5 位， 去年前进巴黎设立「Porte 12」。现在，国 际知名的大厨江振诚衣锦还乡，回到台湾 开设「Raw」— 这家座落于台北中山区的 法式餐酒馆于 2014 年秋天正式开幕。 为了打造出一新耳目的装潢风格，江 振诚 2013 年年底便委托总部位于新加坡、 由荷兰设计师及建筑师 Camiel Weijenberg 领军的设计奖常胜军「Weijenberg」团队开 始构思，担任设计咨询。「Weijenberg」有 与世界级名厨共同设计用餐空间的丰富经 验，如与米其林名厨 Nuno Mendes 一起打 造位于东伦敦的 30 个座位小餐厅「Corner Room」， 另 外 Jason Atherton 在 新 加 坡 的 餐酒馆「The Study」及「The Library Bar」 也都是出自团队手笔。最新力作则是名厨 Andrew Walsh 的新餐厅「Cure」。 江 振 诚 希 望 来 到 Raw 的 客 人 能 用 合 理的价格品尝最高品质食材烹调的高级实 验 性 菜 色， 体 现 所 谓 的「 创 新 精 致 料 理 (bistronomy)」精神，同时让餐厅成为代表 台北的美食新据点。餐厅内的原木素材及 创新性十足的「无边界」室内风格与大厨 的料理风格不谋而合。Weijenberg 表示： 「就 是不想有任何明显的隔间，一般『盒子式』

↑ A quote from Australian chef and restaurateur George Calombaris adorns a far wall in the entrance to the restaurant, and sets the tone for the dining experience. 餐厅入口附近一面大墙写着澳洲名厨暨餐 厅经营人George Calombaris一席话，与 「Raw」欲提供的用餐体验不谋而合。 ← Visitors to Raw are guided into the space by a dramatic, flowing wooden sculptural element, seen here through the floorto-ceiling windows that open up the ​ restaurant’s street view. 步入「Raw」，首先映入眼帘的便是漂浮 的流线木雕装置，十分吸睛，透过大片落 地窗一览无遗，同时也让餐厅连结街景， 视野更加开阔。

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DESIGN

the bistromony ethos, and at the same time create a landmark restaurant for Taipei.

The use of natural materials like unfinished wood and the innovative “borderless” interior accurately mirror the way Chiang works with food. “It was important not to have distinct partitions,” says Weijenberg, “because we felt a ‘boxy’ approach would be restrictive for a highly creative chef. But we still needed to intertwine restaurant operations and functionality with the design.” This led to the idea for a huge wooden sculpture that is now the dramatic centerpiece of the space.

“Most of the piece is purposeful,” says Weijenberg, “storage, a wine island, and a large counter near the entrance, but without compromising the beauty of the design.”

Weijenberg explains that he and his team strive to capture what is authentic and original about a place in every design project they undertake throughout Asia. “If you look at New York, Hong Kong, Singapore – the big cities – the styles are very much the same. This international style isn’t characteristic of any country or region. We look at the local techniques and methods and try to work with those,” he explains. “Crafting the Traditional” is the firm’s aesthetic philosophy, which Weijenberg defines as “a modern, yet classic, outlook on design that is functional, complementing the elements of the surrounding environment.”

His approach is evident in Raw’s design in ways both both dramatic and discreet.

The sixty-five-meter-long wooden sculpture that commands the otherwise understated interior was personally designed by Weijenberg. He created a machine cutting pattern for it that was turned over to a boat building company in southern Taiwan. There the woodworkers crafted the final sculpture from locally sourced lumber.

This central element presented the team with the project’s greatest challenges, such things as taking into consideration the earthquake and fire regulations that would be imposed on such a massive wooden structure. They also needed to ensure that the

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digital imprint of the machine cutting – “almost like a fingerprint” – would remain discernible on the surface of the wood. “We wanted something that had a lot of character, so you’d almost be able to see how it was made,” Weijenberg explains. “There had to be transparency and honesty in the way it was fabricated.”

A highlight for the designers was the opportunity to work closely with local craftsmen. Their authentically Taiwanese touches are present in subtle ways, such as the dark finish and patterned and paneled surface of the eighty-meter wine wall. The details, says Weijenberg, are typical of local carpentry, and Taiwanese craftsmen are “very

comfortable and extremely quick” working with wood in this way.

Weijenberg and his team made several visits to Taiwan over the course of the project, both to Taipei and to southern Taiwan to oversee work contracted to factories there.

The thing that sticks in his mind most from these trips is the surprisingly “borderless” interiors of the small neighborhood eateries he visited each morning and evening. “When you come in,” he says, “there’s a barbecue, a dumpling fryer on the left, a dishwasher on the right, and at the back someone chopping vegetables. It feels just like you’re sitting in the kitchen as part of it all, which is unusual, but, I think, fantastic.”

COURTESY OF RAW

Cutlery and the menu are secreted away in personal drawers in the custom-made tables that grace both dining areas in Raw. 「Raw」两大用餐区均设有量身订制餐桌， 内附个人抽屉，餐具及菜单均藏身其中。

的装潢对想法天马行空的大厨而言简直格 格不入，但同时仍须把营运动线及功能性 融入设计中。」团队因此打造了一个巨型木 雕装置，俨然已成为空间的中心所在，效 果十足。设计师接着说明 ： 「大部分物件都 以目的性为取向，如收纳处、中岛藏酒空间， 以及入口附近的大型柜台等，但兼顾实际 需求同时仍保有设计美感。」Weijenberg 强 调，在亚洲承接的每个设计案都秉持相同 精神，希望找出并忠于地方真实及原初的 风味。他说 ： 「放眼纽约、香港、新加坡等 大城市，其实风格都差不多，这种所谓的 国际风格看不出特定国家或地区的特色， 所以我们着眼点于『在地』技术及工法， 希望和我们的设计揉合在一起。」Weijenberg 团队推崇「雕琢传统」为自己的设计

美学，用他自己的话来说便是「摩登但经典， 设计风着重功能，与周边环境蕴含的不同 元素相辅相成。」 团队的设计理念在 Raw 展露无遗，考 量周到又不乏戏剧效果。餐厅低调装潢风 格中的亮点－ 65 公尺长的木雕装置正是由 Weijenberg 操刀设计，他亲自拟好工具机 锯木模式后转交南台湾的制船公司，交由 木工雕琢当地原木制成最后成品。 此一庞然大物带给团队许多挑战，例如 防震及防火法规等核心需求，设计时便须考 量在内，同时也力求工具机的自动数位印刻 能创造「近乎指纹」的质感，在木头表面上 一看就懂。他解释 ： 「我们的设计注入很多 特色的元素，连制作过程也能让人一目了然， 因此过程中透明度及真诚的态度缺一不可。 」

对于团队设计师而言，能与地方工匠一 起工作也是难能可贵的机会，师傅们纯正的 台式技法丝丝入扣，细腻非常，如 80 公尺 高酒墙最外层的暗色质感、表面的脉落及纹 理等细节，Weijenberg 分析，就是地方木工 的强项，而这种处理方式正对台湾工匠的口 味，做起来「游刃有余、效率十足」 。 设计师和团队于计画期间多次造访台 湾，到台北及台南的合约工厂监工。当时 每天早上及傍晚他都到餐馆报到，对于店 内一向「无边界」的装潢留下深刻印象。 他说 ： 「左边用来烤东西、放锅贴煎锅、右 边塞了台洗碗机，后面还站了个人在切菜， 这一切让人仿佛置身朋友家厨房，自己也 是其中的一份子。这种感觉与众不同，但 确实是一次奇妙的体验。」 formosa influence

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TASTING NEWS

三维美食体验

food in 3d One of Germany’s top chefs brings his multi-dimensional approach to Macau.

Thomas Bühner

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Thomas Bühner 对烹饪萌生兴趣，可追溯到童年 时在祖父母的酒吧玩耍的回忆，尔后的能力倾向 测验也充分展露出他的料理天赋，这让他小小年 纪便立志要成为一个成功的厨师。 事实证明 Bühner 的选择并没有错。历经德 国多间餐厅历练后，他获钦点担任德国顶尖名厨

Harald Wohlfahrt 旗下的「Schwarzwaldstube」餐 厅部门总厨，后转往多特蒙德（Dortmund）知名 餐厅「La Table」接下行政总厨一职。权威美食 评鉴「Gault & Millau」也认同他的潜力，将其选 ， 为 2001 年「年度崛起新星」 2006 年更上一层楼， 勇夺「年度最佳厨师」的殊荣。自此他全心投入 位于德国奥斯纳布吕克（Osnabrück）开设的「La

Vie」餐厅，并一举于 2012 年摘下米其林三颗星星。 Bühner 于今年五月在澳门文华东方酒店御 苑餐厅当客席大厨，带来六道菜的大厨精选晚间 套餐及四道菜的午间套餐，展现他那高度进化， 或套用大厨的料理哲学－「三维立体馥郁美馔」 的无穷魅力。第一维度由各种新鲜食材组合而成， 蕴含的天然气息在他妙手下展露无遗，第二维度 由大厨选用情有独钟的低温慢煮烹调法打造，最 后则让套餐菜色的不同元素协调揉合，使味道及 口感臻至完美平衡。

MICHAEL HOLZ (2)

CHILDHOOD MEMORIES of his grandparents’ pub were what first inspired Thomas Bühner to take up cooking.

An early aptitude test revealed talents in that direction, and at a young age he resolved to succeed as a chef.

Bühner’s subsequent career has only served to confirm his destiny. After training in Germany, he was appointed Chef de Partie at Harald Wohlfahrt’s Schwarzwaldstube and then Chef de Cuisine at the La Table Restaurant in Dortmund. Gault & Millau named him Rising Star of the Year in 2001, and he was voted Chef of the Year in 2006. Since then he has run La Vie in Osnabrück, which by 2012 had won its third star.

This May, Bühner was invited as guest chef to Vida Rica Restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, to present a six-course dinner tasting menu and a four-course lunch menu that exemplify his highly evolved style, which he terms “three-dimensional aromatic cuisine.”

The first dimension is an emphasis on maximizing the natural flavors inherent in each fresh ingredient. The second is his penchant for go-slow cooking employing low temperatures. And the third is the harmonization of disparate elements in a series of courses to reach a sophisticated balance of flavors and textures.

Parsnip and Pistachio with Black Garlic Coconut Cream

MICHAEL HOLZ (2)

防风草及开心果配黑蒜椰子忌廉

P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

調酒大賽頂尖對決

raising the bar THE SEARCH for the world’s best bartender reached another climax recently at the Hong Kong and Macau finals of the 2015 Diageo Reserve WORLD CLASS™ competition. Eight contestants battled it out over two days. The ultimate challenge was to mix seventy-two identical cocktails in fifteen minutes on the theme of “multi-senses,” using premium spirits from the Diageo Reserve collection.

Antonio Lai was crowned WORLD CLASS ™ Champion and will go on to Cape Town for the global finals in September. The three runners-up will join Antonio in Bangkok for the South East Asian finals. All four share the creativity behind their winning libations.

2015 年 Diageo Reserve 帝 亚 吉 欧 高 级 烈酒系列世界顶尖调酒師大赛 (WORLD CLASS™) 在香港及澳门赛站再掀高潮， 八位调酒好手在两天之内使出浑身解数， 皆欲赢得最佳调酒师的荣衔。终极挑战 主题为「多重感官体验」 ，需调酒师们使 用 Diageo Reserve 的 顶 级 烈 酒， 于 15 分钟内混调 72 种类似的鸡尾酒。 港 澳 站 冠 军 最 终 由 Antonio Lai 夺 下，他将于 9 月前往南非开普敦，于全 三名得奖者也将与 Antonio 一起参加于 曼谷举行的东南亚区决赛。四位调酒大 师大方分享精心调制的美酒背后蕴藏的 创意发想。

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DAVID HARTUNG

球总决赛中与世界好手一决高下，其他

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P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

The Sound of Cîroc “The Sound of Cîroc is based on what you see, taste, smell, touch, and hear. It’s a classic twist on a Negroni, but instead of gin I use French Cîroc vodka distilled from grapes. You get the smell of grapes from the dry ice mist, then comes the sound – I inject CO2 into grapes and after two hours they are fizzing. The sense of touch comes from the tingly mouthfeel on the tip of the tongue.” 「Cîroc 之 声 以 视 觉、 味 觉、 嗅 觉、 触 觉 及 听 觉 五 感 为 诉 求， 算是 Negroni 的经典改良，用葡萄蒸馏酿制的法国 Cîroc 伏 特加取代原本的琴酒。首先， 烟雾弥漫的干冰中萦绕葡萄气息， 声音效果接踵而至－葡萄里灌进二氧化碳，两小时过后开始 发出嘶嘶声响。 此时啜饮一口调酒，舌尖传来刺麻的口感便

“ It’s a bit like a dream – I still don’t feel like I’m the winner! This is the best bar competition in the world. 如同做梦一般，我还不太敢相信 自己拿下冠军！ 世界最棒的调酒 比赛非 World Class 莫属。“ ANTONIO LAI, WORLD CLASS™ CHAMPION, QUINARY

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

是令人难忘的触觉体验。 」

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P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

Crank It to Ten “The name Crank It to Ten came about because I used to play in a rock band, and Tanqueray No. TEN is name-dropped so much in popular culture, especially music. I deliberately kept it quite simple – I wanted to highlight the spirit as much as possible.

It’s a refreshing, slightly spritzed, martini-style cocktail. It takes Tanqueray No. TEN, fortified bianco vermouth that matches the floral notes in the TEN, frozen and fresh grapefruit juices that match the citrus notes, and it’s finished with some aromatic grapefruit peel and a little splash of soda to make it refreshing.”

新鲜的冻葡萄柚汁则用来搭配柑橘气息，最后缀上带着馨香的葡

我真的很喜欢 World Class，这 是一个非常好的经验。每轮 比赛也很捧，周一晚上跟客 人互动的环节十分精彩。“

萄柚皮和一抹苏打汽水，让调酒整体爽脆，一切便大功告成。 」

RYAN NIGHTINGALE, HAM & SHERRY

「我从前玩过摇滚乐团，而『Tanqueray 十号特级琴酒』正是流行 文化、特别是音乐界中常借喻的词语，也是这款鸡尾酒 Crank It DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“I really loved World Class, it was a great experience.

The rounds were great and the Monday night service with paying customers was awesome.

to Ten 名称的由来。我尽量简化调制步骤，用以突显琴酒的味道。 这是一种口感清爽、有点气泡酒感觉，又捎带马丁尼风格的调酒。 主角当然是十号琴酒，倒入加烈白苦艾酒，与琴酒的花韵相辅相成；

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Sahara Gem “This cocktail is inspired by the legendary book The Little Prince , which starts with a plane crash in the Sahara Desert. The drink celebrates Cîroc vodka, sugar, and lemon juice, lifted by a number of classic North African flavors, including rose water and mint leaves.” 「灵感来自经典童书『小王子』 ，一开场飞机坠落在撒哈拉沙漠的 场面。这款调酒尝得到 Cîroc 伏特加、糖及柠檬汁的鲜味，再加上 玫瑰水及薄荷叶等极具北非风情的多种调味，更添繁复口感。 」

WALLACE LAU, 2014 WORLD CLASS™ CHAMPION, BAR BUTLER SHELTER

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这款调酒尝得到 Cîroc 伏特加、糖及柠檬 汁的鲜味，再加上玫瑰水及薄荷叶等极 具北非风情的多种调味，更添繁复口感。”

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“The drink celebrates Cîroc vodka, sugar, and lemon juice, lifted by a number of classic North African flavors, including rose water and mint leaves.

P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

“My idea was to focus on the taste of Ron Zapaca, so I used ingredients that didn’t overpower the rum.

Ron Zapaca 兰姆酒的味道是 重点所在，其他材料都经特 别挑选以不喧宾夺主。“

JOAO BALZANI, HOME KONG GROUP, FORMERLY AQUA SPIRIT

Rhythm of Life “I used house-made liquor with cardamom and a house-made syrup from the Caribbean with ginger, clove, and cinnamon. The theme of the competition was senses, so I took bands from around the Ron Zapaca bottles and wore them on my arm. For smell, I steam distilled delicate flavors like herbs and rose, and I presented it in a tray like a Mayan pyramid with dry ice below and spice oil sprayed on it.” 「我使用以小豆蔻为原料的自家酿酒、加 勒比海地区的自家制糖浆，加上姜、丁香 及肉桂。同时为了呼应大赛着重感官的主 旨，再把 Ron Zapaca 兰姆酒瓶身的标条 戴在手臂上，把经过蒸馏的细致气味，如 草本植物及玫瑰等过蒸，强化嗅觉的刺激。 最后摆盘的呈现方式有如马雅金字塔一般， 干冰置底，洒上辣油，效果十足。 」 FORMOSA INFLUENCE | TK |

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TASTING NOTES

大饱口福

good fortune for your mouth Chef Jowett Yu opened his offbeat and wildly popular Ho Lee Fook last year in SoHo, its name an irreverent play on an auspicious Cantonese phrase, its menu an edgy and eclectic play on traditional Cantonese food. His inspiration? The cha chaan tengs of old HK and the late-night

菜餐厅，大受欢迎。餐厅名称「口利福(Ho Lee Fook)」由带吉祥含义的粤语字汇组成，念 起来却又戏谑意味十足，供应的是风格独具、兼容并蓄的独门广东菜。餐厅灵感来自旧式 香港茶餐厅及六十年代纽约唐人街的夜晚风情。

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

vibes of ‘60s NY Chinatown. § 大厨游忠谕（Jowett)去年在中环苏豪区开设了风格独特的中

Drunken Clams Yu, who has lived in Canada and worked in top restaurants in Sydney, is a native of Taiwan.

“Drunken clams is a classic Taiwanese dish,” he says. “It doesn’t matter what you do with it, it’s always tasty. Normally it’s just barely cooked, but I decided to cook the clams a little bit more in Qingdao beer, Shaoxing wine, Thai basil, garlic, lemongrass, and chili.”

绍兴啤酒醉蚬 曾久居加拿大、于悉尼各大顶级 餐厅工作的大厨 Jowett 其实出身 自台湾，他说 ： 「绍兴啤酒醉蚬是 道地台湾菜，不管怎么做，滋味 一流。菜式一般都快炒上桌，但我 特地延长烹煮时间，用青岛啤酒、 绍兴酒、泰国罗勒、大蒜、柠檬 草和辣椒调味。 」

↑ Prawn Toast

→ Roast Wagyu Short Ribs

“Prawn toast is a very classic Cantonese dish, but one rapidly disappearing from cha chaan teng menus,” says Yu. The okonomiyaki topping was inspired by his trips to Osaka, where shaved cabbage, Kewpie mayonnaise, Bull-Dog tonkatsu sauce, and nori are everywhere. “I just decided to make them friends,” he quips. “People interpret it in their own ways, but my cuisine is a combination of everything I’ve eaten, learned, and cooked – my inspiration comes from everywhere.”

Yu’s best-known dish is accompanied by jalapeño purée, green shallot kimchi, and soy glaze. “It’s like a beef teriyaki – sweet, salty, fragrant roasted jalapeños with fish sauce,” says Yu. “The green shallots that you get in kimchi from Korean barbecues go perfectly alongside cuts that are rich and fatty.” Yu worked in Sydney under Japanese master Tetsuya Wakuda who, he says, taught him “a Zen connection, to make one ingredient the star of the dish.”

大阪烧虾多士

烧和牛肋骨配墨西哥辣椒酱

「虾多士是经典的广东菜，但在茶餐厅却越来越少见。 」大厨曾多

Jowett 最富盛名的招牌菜烧和牛肋骨搭配墨西哥辣椒酱（jala「就像照烧牛肉一样， peño)、青葱泡菜及大豆蜜汁上桌。他形容 ：

、 次造访大阪，看到日式御好烧高丽菜丝、丘比美乃滋 （Kewpie）

Bull-Dog 猪排汁及海苔层层叠上，让他萌生对菜式进行改良的想

甜咸滋味兼具、香气浓郁的烧烤辣椒酱再佐以鱼汁，韩式烤肉泡

「我想让它们都变成朋友。每个人有自 法。 Jowett 开玩笑的说 ：

菜里的青葱搭配油脂丰富肥美的和牛肋骨简直是天作之合。 」大

己解读的方式，但我的料理风格就是集我所有吃过、学过和煮过

厨在悉尼期间曾于日本料理达人和久田哲也麾下工作，习得「禅

的东西之大成，我的灵感来自四面八方。 」

风」料理真传，让单一食材也能成为料理主角，发光发热。

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

TASTING NOTES

Kampachi Yu’s variation on a theme melds the influences of Japan and Taiwan – tender raw pink fish, pickled cucumber, herbs, and dressing. The last element is the critical one, “a marriage between Taiwanese fermented plum vinegar, which has a sweetness to it, toasted coriander seeds, some Japanese soy sauce, and coriander fruit, with a flavor like the seeds before they’re dried.”

红魽生鱼片配梅子芫荽酱 Jowett 的红魽料理融合日式及台式风格－细嫩 的粉色生鱼片、腌黄瓜、香草及调味酱，其中 最后一项有画龙点睛之效， 「结合带着甜味的 台湾自然发酵梅醋、烘烤胡荽籽、些许日式酱 油以及味道类似胡荽籽干化前的胡荽果就大功 告成。 」

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MOVERS & SHAKERS

八角哲学

eat his words One of Asia’s most honored chefs recounts his personal journeys, to the places he calls home and to the principles behind his art.

BEYOND THE BLUE DOOR of a charm在新加坡那栋典雅洋楼的蓝色大门背后， ing white colonial house in Singapore is a 藏着一所传授烹饪哲学的学院。在里头， school of culinary philosophy. Inside, Chef 名厨江振诚（André Chiang）告诉我们他做 André Chiang reveals an approach to cui菜的「八角哲学 (Octaphilosophy)」：独特、 sine, Octaphilosophy™, that is informed by 纯净、口感、记忆、盐、南法风情、手艺 eight simple words: Unique, Pure, Texture, 及风土气候。这八个简单的词是他做菜的 Memory, Salt, South, Artisan, Terroir. They 原则，每一项都淋漓尽致地反映在餐厅的 are the precepts by which he cooks, each 菜单上。他一手打造的 André 餐厅，已经 one translated into its own course on the 获奖无数，备受肯定。 tasting menu at his award-winning restau从故乡台湾出发，到日本再到法国， rant, André. 过了 15 年的烹饪生活，江振诚 BY It took Chiang thirty years to 总共花了 30 年时间，才辗转来 LUCY MORGAN reach Bukit Pasoh Road from his 到新加坡的 Bukit Pasoh Road 上。 native Taiwan via Japan to France, 他 13 岁开始在母亲的中式餐厅 PHOTOGRAPHY BY where he lived and cooked for fif里学做菜，体悟到烹饪必须有条 JAMBU STUDIO teen years. His training began at 不紊。到了法国，江振诚在西式 thirteen in his mother’s Chinese 餐厅继续受训，发现他能够把自 restaurant, where he learned the importance 己的个性和价值观融入料理之中。30 岁那 of discipline. In France he continued train年，他大胆地决定回到亚洲发展。江振诚说： ing in Western kitchens, discovering how to 「我总是觉得自己缺了什么，我对亚洲真的 put his own personality and values into his 不太了解，觉得和她几乎没有连系。」 dishes. At thirty he made the bold decision 新加坡是个极具发展潜力的地方，因 to return to Asia. “I did think there was a part 此获得江振诚的青睐。他说 ： 「新加坡的 missing in me,” he says. “I didn’t know much 竞争环境似乎比较公平。 」谈到离开法国是 about Asia, I felt almost disconnected.” 不是种冒险的做法时，他说 ： 「只要提到做 He chose Singapore as an up-and-com菜，我什么都不怕。刚开幕时餐厅规模很 ing gastronomic destination. “It seemed 小，只有两、三张桌子，现在我们有 30 个 like a level playing field.” On his risky move, 座位了。我当时想 ： 『如果这样行不通，我 he remarks, “Not much scares me when 随时都可以回法国。现在只要好好煮菜就 it comes to cooking. I started small – two 行了。』」 tables, then three, now we have thirty seats. 他在亚洲有一幢西式大宅，门前的法 I thought, ‘If it doesn’t work out, I can always 国橄榄树显得苍翠挺拔，仿佛反映着江振

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André Chiang 江振诚

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Ravioli and ​ cured baby sardines

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return to France. In the meantime, I’m just going to cook.’”

His Western-style house in Asia, with an olive tree from France flourishing out front, mirrors his personal journey, and there’s delightful serendipity in his discovery of the place. “So many restaurants in Singapore are inside tall buildings. It’s incredibly rare to find a house like this. I passed by and wanted to see what lay behind the wall – the owners turned out to be my friend’s parents!

Things moved quickly and the renovations were finished in a few months. Restaurant André started with a space, a community – it was about what kind of energy this area needed, what kind of people passed by, and then we created something.”

Chiang works according to a very personal system in the kitchen, letting the ingredients guide his menu. Ideas for plating come from an unlikely source: “I take random photos with my phone, capturing the blue of denim jeans or the texture of fabric on a chair. These snapshots sometimes help to inspire the lines of a dish.”

Chiang’s artistry is a fusion of rigor and flexibility, a paradox which makes for exceptional food but sometimes leaves him unclear as to exactly what he is cooking until the very last minute. “We don’t order specific items from suppliers, just quantities. The fish man, the farmer, the vegetable supplier – they send us their best products that day.

We don’t know what’s going to arrive until it arrives. Then I start to get a sense of which elements of Octaphilosophy they represent and we start to create components that can be built into dishes.”

He points to some tomatoes: “These are very ripe, so I’ll make tomato sorbet. This asparagus will be a salad, the artichoke will become a soup. What’s the final dish?

Sometimes I know, sometimes I don’t. The individual elements are like letters which you put together to spell a dish. I could never sit at a desk and create,” he says. “I have to be in the kitchen – one side is making strawberry salad, the other roast pork, and I think, ‘Let’s do strawberry pork.’”

诚过去的旅途，而会发现这栋洋楼也是意 外的惊喜。他说 ： 「新加坡绝大部分的餐厅 开在高楼大厦里，这样的房子真的很少见。 我经过时很想看看里面长什么样子，后来 发现屋主竟然是我朋友的爸妈！于是事情 进展得很快，我们在几个月内完成了装潢。 André 餐厅以提供一个空间、一个社群的 想法起步 , 它是这个地区需要的一种能量， 只要有人经过这里，我们就能创造。」

江振诚在厨房里的工作模式相当具有 个人特色－有什么食材，就有什么菜单。 摆盘的灵感来源更令人匪夷所思 ： 「我用手 机随意拍了几张照片，捕捉单宁牛仔裤的 蓝和椅垫纤维的质感。我把那些影像存在 脑中，有时候能激发我摆盘的灵感。」 江振诚的作品是精确与弹性的结合， 这种矛盾的坚持让他做出来的东西不同凡 响，但有时候不到最后一刻，他也不清楚 formosa influence

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Patata Bravas Noirmoutier potatoes, tomato puree with aioili, ​ Japanese chives and garlic flowers, bed of garlic cacao soil

This spontaneity was one of the factors behind Octaphilosophy. “I thought, ‘What is André’s cuisine?’ I looked at everything I did before, but couldn’t find anything consistent – I don’t use recipes and I don’t repeat dishes. I realized there are elements which constantly appear. I always have a dish that celebrates an artisan – cheesemaker, farmer, fisherman – I always make one with no seasoning, one with no cooking, one using pure produce, and one that highlights a texture.

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I realized, that’s me. There were eight elements and they now form the basis of the menu.”

Octaphilosophy is supported by a surprising system behind the kitchen door. Chiang’s cuisine might be described as “nouvelle” or as bearing the imprint of the South of France, but the staff protocol is modeled on the first kitchen he worked in, his mother’s.

“In a Chinese kitchen the chefs are all specialists – wok, cutting, stir fry, roast. I found

this very attractive. You shouldn’t be seeking grand titles or a higher position. It’s better to be a specialist in what you do best.”

Chiang’s kitchen has four stations. When staff come on, they perform general duties until he knows their strengths. Sensitive palates are assigned to Seasoning. Anyone good at cooking, cutting, and temperature joins Cuisson. Those who are fast, spontaneous, and creative will be effective on Assembly, while the most technically able are reserved for Texture.

The advantage is that everybody is involved in the production of every course.

“The Western kitchen has periods when some areas are frantic and others are standing around doing nothing,” says Chiang.

“There’s pressure for promotion, commis 2 to commis 1, etc. We don’t have hierarchy at André.”

Chiang’s practices have developed over the five years since André opened. “Octaphilosophy has never changed,” he says, “but how have we evolved? Nowadays, instead of me saying, ‘This is what I want,’ we spend a lot of time discussing ideas together. We have eighteen staff of sixteen nationalities – every single person is different, so when it comes to, say, a potato salad, they know sixteen kinds of potato salad. Everybody feels involved, they’re part of it, and that’s important.”

Chiang calls three places home, Singapore, France, and Taiwan. Each has helped to mold his culinary style, and now he’s giving back. He has started two more restaurants in Singapore, where his solo career began, and another in Paris, Porte 12, that offers “bistronomy” in a former lingerie atelier. His most recent venture, Raw, is in his native Taiwan. But Restaurant André remains the place that reflects his culinary essence, and to such a degree that he actually closes it when he has to be away. “Many chefs nowadays, when they have a number of restaurants, they have to be everywhere,” says Chiang. “For me, André is where we started, it’s named André, and so André has to be there.”

AndrĂŠ Chiang

自己在做什么料理。「我们跟供应商下订单 时，不会要求特定的食材，只会交代需要 的数量。渔夫、农夫和其他厂商会提供当 天最好的食材。但至于材料是什么，在送 抵前我们也不知道。材料送来后，我便开 始思考它们属于八角哲学中的哪一个面向， 并接着创造能构成一道菜的组成成分。」 他指着那些番茄说 ： 「这些熟透了的就 拿来做番茄雪酪吧。这把芦笋就拿来做沙 拉，那朝鲜蓟可以煮汤。最后一道菜是什 么呢？有时我知道，有时不知道。那些食

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材就像字母一样，拼一拼就能烹调一道菜 肴。我没办法在书桌前构思料理，我必须 身在厨房里。当这边在做草莓沙拉，另一 边在烤猪肉时，我心里就会想着 ： 『我们来 做草莓猪排吧！』」 这种随性促成了八角哲学。 「我思索着： 『什么是 André 的料理？』我看着之前做过 的每道菜，却找不到任何的共通点，因为 我不用食谱，也不会做煮过的菜。我发现 我的料理中仍有一些常常出现的要素。我 总是有道赞颂乳酪师傅、农夫和渔夫手艺

的菜肴 ；总是有一道不加调味料的菜、一 道冷盘、一道只用农产品、一道强调口感 的菜。于是我懂了－这就是我的风格。我 的料理有八种要素，它们构成了我的菜单。」 而在厨房里，一套新颖的运作模式配 合着江振诚的八角哲学。顾客们可能会用 「新潮」或「带有法国南方风味」来描述他 的料理，然而，André 餐厅里的员工守则， 却是在他待的第一个厨房－他母亲的厨房 里，就制订好的。「在一家中式餐厅里，每 一位厨师都是专家－掌镬、切菜、炒菜、 烧烤。他们各司其职，我觉得这样的分工 很不错，你不必为了好听的名号或更高的 职位而汲汲营营。每个人都是专家，能发 挥自己的专长，这样不是很好吗？」 江振诚的厨房里有四个工作站。他会 请新进的职员先总揽庶务，直到了解他们 的专长。味觉敏锐的人被派到调味部 ；擅 长烹煮、切菜，熟悉火侯的人加入烹饪部 ； 手脚快、随性、有创意的人加入装饰部 ； 技巧最细腻的职员则被口感部留用。 这样分工的优点在于每一位职员都能参 与每道菜的制作过程。 「西式餐厅的厨房里 常常有些人忙得焦头烂额，其他人却围在旁 边没事做。 」江振诚说道。 「他们有升迁的压 力，要从二级厨师升到一级，如此等等。在 André 大家没有阶级之分， 每个人都是专家。 」 自从五年前 André 开幕起，江振诚的 餐厅事业也不断地向上提升。他说 ： 「我们 要怎么进步呢？我选择花很多时间跟员工 们交换想法，而不是对他们说 ： 『我想要这 么做。』我们的 18 位员工来自 16 个国家， 每个人都很不一样。举例来说，当我提到 马铃薯沙拉时，他们想到的是 16 种不同的 马铃薯沙拉。每个人都很有参与感，他们 都是其中的一部分，我觉得这很重要。」 江振诚说自己有三个家－新加坡、法 国和台湾。每个地方都促成了他的烹饪风 格。继他在新加坡打造第一家餐厅后，江 振诚的另外两家餐厅也陆续开幕。而他的 另一家美食小酒馆 Porte 12 也在巴黎开始 营业。他最新的尝试，是在他的故土台湾， 创立一家名为 Raw 的餐厅。然而江振诚总 会留守于一个反映着自己烹饪精髓的地方 , 如果他自己没办法来餐厅的话，当天就不 营业。他说 ： 「现在有很多名厨，因为开了 不少餐厅，必须到处跑。对我来说，André 餐厅是一切的开端，因为它取名叫 André， 所以必须有 André Chiang 在。」

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平凡中见不凡

Humble to Haute The alchemy of André Chiang’s Raw transforms the commonest ingredients of Taiwan into dishes that reveal their essence.

每天中午， 「Raw」线上系统开放两周内的 EACH DAY AT NOON, Raw’s online system releases 112 午餐及晚餐共 112 席订位，短短 53 秒后便 seats for lunch and dinner reservations for the date two 抢订一空。自餐厅 2014 年 12 月开幕以来， weeks out. Fifty-three seconds later, they are booked 天天都是如此盛况，火红程度可见一斑。 solid. Such is the fervor surrounding Raw since the day it Raw 的 创 办 信 念 与 地 方 农 产 密 不 可 opened in Taipei in December 2014. 分，都是希望完整展现及普及台湾食材的 Raw was founded on a vision of capturing and com天 然 美 味。 主 厨 黄 以 伦 说 明 ： municating the essence of Taiwan by way of 「每一季我们都试着能配合传统 its locally grown products. “Every season, we BY 二十四节气创造出新的台湾料 try to identify twenty-four specific ingredients MAMIE CHEN 理风味作为当季主打。 」Raw 团 or Taiwanese cultural memories to highlight,” 队妙手运用当代国际烹饪技术 says Chef Alain Huang. Raw then employs the PHOTOGRAPHY BY 重新演绎各式食材，激发出最美 most appropriate of modern international culiDAVID HARTUNG 味的一面。 nary techniques to reinterpret and faithfully 有时，人们习以为常的食材会以最不 bring out the best in each one. 寻常的方式现身。举例来说，有道以白花 Sometimes familiar ingredients are presented in 椰为主料的菜式，有包括烘烤、焦化、干化， unusual ways. One dish, for example, explores the range 甚至蒸煮磨成小米状的烹调方式，就是为 of textures in cauliflower through toasting, caramelizing, 了呈现各种口感的可能性。黄以伦表示： 「客 drying, and even steaming and grinding it into couscous. 人常尝一口菜式后就拿起菜单，看看到底 “People often take a bite and then pick up the menu and 用了什么食材。 」看到那让人不自禁的認同 check the ingredients again,” says Huang. It’s that second 神情，他就知道『任务达成』 。 look that tells him “mission accomplished.”

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過貓 破布子 Vegetable Fern

Chinese Olive

青花魚 羽衣甘藍 Mackerel

Curly Kale

深坑 黑豬肉 Shenkeng Black ​ Pig Pork

IN PLACE OF THE CLICHÉD JAMÓN IBÉRICO that is to be found on the menu of nearly every high-end Western restaurant in Taipei, Raw showcases the local favorite, Sanxia district pork belly from the black pig, Taiwan’s indigenous swine species. Huang first cooks it sous-vide for a meltingly tender interior and then pan sears and roasts it for an ultracrispy skin.

The richness of the pork belly’s sumptuous mouthfeel is cut with the natural astringency of Chinese olives. During harvest season, they are frequently boiled, salted, and preserved right beside the tree they were picked from. Chinese olives are commonly used to season steamed fish or to flavor congee. Here, their intense flavor gives the dish a recognizably Taiwanese character.

Huang eschews the traditional combination of pork belly with Chinese broccoli, balancing the dish instead with curly kale for a more contemporary, international interpretation.

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相较台北内，几乎每家高级西餐厅都会采用西 班牙顶级伊比利猪，而 Raw 则选用当地出产 的猪种 ：台湾三峡区的深坑黑猪肉来展现地方 特色美味。主厨先将把猪肉以真空低温烹调， 直至内里软烂，接着放到平底锅炙烧，烤出酥 脆外皮。 黑猪肉丰富满萦的气味搭配破布子天然 的涩味恰恰好，一点都不腻口。盛产时节，破 布子通常煮过后盐渍，直接藏于摘采的橄榄树 旁保存，烹调时常作为蒸鱼或粥的调味使用。 这道菜中，破布子浓烈的气味让人一吃便能感 受到浓浓的台湾味。 黄以伦不跟从传统的黑猪肉以椰菜作搭 配，而选择羽衣甘蓝来平衡口味，增添新颖、 为美食注入全新的思维。

Mushroom Salad, Pork, Chinese Olive 菇 , 猪 , 破布子

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西紅柿 Tomatoes

Rose Champagne, Tomatoes, Ohba Sansho 粉红香槟 , 西红柿（蕃茄）, 紫苏 , 山椒

VIBRANT AND VIVID, SOUR AND SWEET, fleshy and firm, tomatoes have been a staple in Chinese cuisine since the sixteenth century. In Taiwan they are just as likely to be eaten as a fresh fruit, or even candied on a stick, as they are to be cooked as a vegetable.

Huang chooses four distinctive varieties to highlight the delightful range of flavors and textures that tomatoes offer. The oval red “jade lady” cherry variety supplied by Racines, Chiang’s farm in Tainan, are very sweet with thin, delicate skins. Also from Racines are the rounder “orange honey” cherry tomatoes, sweet, but with a denser body.

The popular beefsteak tomatoes, thick-fleshed and juicy, were first imported into Taiwan only about a decade ago, and most Taiwanese remember growing up with the tarter, almost grassy-flavored “black persimmon” variety.

Huang echoes the acidity of the tomatoes with that of the Champagne, then rounds out the dish with ohba sansho sorbet and salty highlights from the thin-sliced mackerel and kampachi sashimi.

鲜明抢眼、酸中带甜、肉多扎实，蕃茄自 十六世纪以来便在中菜里扮演举足轻重的 角色。台湾有多種吃法，当新鲜水果食用、 糖渍做蕃茄串或入菜烹饪都相当常见。 主厨特地挑选了四个不同品种，展现 蕃茄在味道及口感蕴含的广大可能。红色 椭圆的「玉女」樱桃蕃茄来自江振诚在台 ， 皮薄细嫩， 南的自营农场「若心 (Racines)」 甜度很高 ；另一种来自农场的圆形樱桃蕃 茄称为「橙香蜜」 ，味道也甜但肉身较为 紧实。另外一种是许多人喜欢的 「牛蕃茄」 ， 引进台湾的时间尚短，约十年左右。最后 则是许多台湾人成长的记忆之一，口味较 酸、色泽近草地绿的「黑柿番茄」 。 黄以伦以香槟的微酸搭配蕃茄特有 的酸味，同时沿餐盘缀着山椒紫苏雪葩， 切青花鱼片和紅魽刺身，营造特别的咸味 口感。

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土雞蛋 Eggs

Perfect Egg, Praline, Wild Vegetables 蛋 , 坚果 , 野菜

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山蘇 Bird’s Nest​ Fern

THOUSANDS OF THE WORKERS at Racines are equipped with wings and feathers. Once their eggs have been laid each morning, troops of free-range chickens are released into assigned fields to earn their keep by foraging for insects and worms that might otherwise damage the crops. “We call them working-class chickens,” Huang smiles. “There are carrot chickens and celery chickens. They even get days off!”

Huang slow-cooks the egg in water at 63°C for an hour until the white has begun to firm but the yolk remains deliciously gooey. He serves it on a bed of native wild greens that include vegetable ferns, bird’s nest ferns, chayote leaves, Taiwanese cyclone spinach, and white water snowflake, an aquatic plant similar to water lily. Before they are tossed in a pine nut dressing, the vegetables are lightly blanched so that every texture in the dish, from crisp to tender to creamy, can be savored.

Guests are invited to custom garnish their dishes from an accompanying wreath of herbs.

若心农场有数以千计、有翅膀及羽毛的 「专业工作者」 ，一大早产完鸡蛋后，这 批放牧鸡大军便转往各自负责的区域， 扫荡可能危害农作的昆虫，养活自己。 主厨笑着说 ： 「这是一群工薪阶级的鸡， 有专管萝卜的，也有以芹菜为责任区的 鸡，平时甚至还能轮休！」 主厨将蛋放进 63°C 温水中慢煮 1 小时，直到蛋白凝固，蛋黄却仍弹嫩的 程度，相当诱人。上桌时把鸡蛋置于多 种在地野菜之上，包括过猫、山苏、龙 须菜、皇宫菜，以及近似睡莲的水生植 物水莲。洒上松子酱汁前，所有蔬菜都 会稍微过水烫白，让这道菜从爽脆、柔 嫩到绵密的各种口感都能融为一体。 上 桌 时 旁 边 付 着 一 圈 野 蔬 植 物， 顾客可以自行点缀，创造属于自己的一 道菜。

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紅心 芭樂 Pink Guava

Berry, Pink Guava, Roast Apple 草莓 , 红心芭乐 , 苹果

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说到台湾人小时候印象最深的饮料，芭乐

childhood memories of the Taiwanese than guava juice.

At one time it was more widely available in restaurants than soda, and even today the majority of guests at wedding banquets prefer guava juice over wine. Inexpensive and commonplace, the fruit remains a popular street snack when dipped in a mixture of plum powder, salt, and sugar.

Huang extracts the juice from pink guavas, which are more intensely flavored than the white-fleshed variety, and then churns it into a refreshing sorbet. The dessert combines the juice with in-season strawberries, slices of baked apple, and cranberry sauce.

The pink guava remains surprisingly fragrant when frozen. Tart notes in the strawberries and cranberry sauce are offset by the sweet apples and mellowed by the creamy fromage blanc. Topped with strawberry meringue and a dusting of plum powder, the dish is a simple one that allows the innermost flavors of each of the ingredients to shine through.

汁称第二大概没人敢说第一。曾有一度，

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餐厅里供应芭乐汁的比例远超过汽水，时 至今日大多数婚礼筵席仍舍酒而取芭乐 汁。同时芭乐也因为便宜及入手容易，成 为大街小巷都能看到的摊贩美食，沾点梅 粉、盐及糖混制的沾酱就很好吃。 主厨特别挑选比起一般白肉芭乐味 道更浓重的红心芭乐，取汁后搅制成爽 口的雪葩。这道甜点以用果汁搭配当季 草莓、烤苹果片及蔓越莓酱，味道非常 丰富。 红心芭乐香气之浓，丝毫没有因为 经过冷冻处理而有任何减损。苹果的甜 味中和了草莓及蔓越莓酱的酸呛，味道 也因绵密的白乳酪变得更为顺口。最后 在上方缀以草莓蛋白霜、洒上梅粉，就 是一道让各式食材内韵美味发光发热的 诱人甜品。

TASTING DESTINATION

追寻耀眼的渴望

Sparkling Aspirations Lavished with recognition, Lanshu Chen continues to refine her intrepid and very personal perspective on food.

A YOUNG TAIWANESE WOMAN graduates 一位顶着台湾大学外文系高学历光环的女 with a degree in foreign languages and lit生，在毕业后毅然决定飞往巴黎去追寻她 erature from one of the top universities in 真正的热情－料理，这难道只是一时的冲 the country and then promptly jets off to 动？如果说的是台中乐沐法式餐厅的创办 Paris to pursue her true passion – food. An 人及主厨陈岚舒的话，那答案绝对是「不」 。 impulsive recipe for disaster? Not when 她 忠 于 自 己 梦 想 的 态 度 和 取 决， 正 为 她 you’re talking about Lanshu Chen, owner 的工作生涯编织了一份令人惊艳的履历。 and head chef of Le Moût in the city of Tai2008 年在她带着丰富历练回台之前，年纪 chung. Far from reckless, her gambit netted 轻轻的她已经在世界知名的烹饪学校法国 an exceptional CV, including study at famed 蓝带厨艺学院 (Le Cordon Bleu) 及巴黎斐杭 culinary schools Le Cordon Bleu 迪高等厨艺学校 (Ferrandi) 学艺 BY and Ferrandi, training under 并取得学位，师承米其林星级 MAMIE CHEN Michelin-starred French chefs, 法国厨师，也曾在名厨 Thomas and a stint at Thomas Keller’s Keller 开立于美国加州纳帕谷的 PHOTOGRAPHY BY French Laundry in Napa Valley, French Laundry 餐厅工作。 DAVID HARTUNG before she returned to Taiwan 艺高人胆大的陈岚舒，几乎 in 2008 with her accumulated 是将高级料理带进台湾这个以 learning and experience. 小吃和夜市闻名的第一位厨师，因为她看 Nothing if not audacious, Chen was 见了这里的潜力，并以过人的意志力和持 the first to bring haute cuisine to a coun之以恒的精神去实现自己的梦想。陈岚舒 try known more for xiaochi snacks and night 回忆起创业时的艰辛，说道 ： 「当时在台中 markets than fine dining. She envisioned the 根本没有人认识法国料理。」除了陌生的味 potential and summoned the strength of will 道和烹饪技巧之外，厨房里各种繁复的细 to persevere and make it happen. “The first 节和高标准的品质也是国内餐厅少见。慢 years were difficult because no one in Tai慢地，凭借着严格的自我要求与耐心，她 chung knew French cuisine,” says Chen. 终于成功的打造出一支可以与她共同追求 Not only were the flavors and techniques 卓越理念的团队。

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Foie Gras Terrine, Macadamia, Makauy Peppercorn, Brioche and Button Mushroom 冷压肥鸭肝,蕃茄,山胡椒,蘑菇,夏威夷豆 Chen gives the traditional a Le Moût twist, spicing her sweet tomato jam with Tabasco sauce and the curiously citrus-scented wild Makauy peppercorn (mountain pepper) of Taiwan. 陈岚舒把墨西哥辣椒酱，和带有独特柑橘 香味的台湾野生山胡椒溶入甜番茄酱， 将传统料理勾勒出一道乐沐的色彩。

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Lanshu Chen​ 陈岚舒

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unfamiliar, but also the rigorous attention to detail and high standards of quality that define a gastronomic kitchen. With deliberation and patience, she has nevertheless succeeded in building a team that shares her pursuit of excellence.

Chen has also had the confidence to let Le Moût evolve over time. What began as the relatively simple notion of a refined French restaurant transplanted to Taiwan has since matured into a unique expression of time and place. “In France I learned classic ways to combine elements and flavors.

Here, I found many fresh local ingredients that are of high quality and have a range of flavors that are never found in traditional French food,” says Chen. “I knew I could make a better cuisine with them, so I decided to use them.”

She retains the essence of French tradition in terms of preparation, cooking techniques, sauces, and insistence on the best ingredients from around the world – wagyu beef, black Périgord truffles, jamón ibérico de bellota. Then she carefully integrates local Taiwanese products into her

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dishes to create distinctive flavor profiles that can be found in no other restaurant, French or Chinese. “You feel that you’ve infused energy into the dish – flavors, freshness, textures – and it sparkles,” says Chen. The daring and the seductive je ne sais quoi of her food continue to garner local and international accolades. She was named Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2014, and Le Moût has been S.Pellegrino’s Best Restaurant in Taiwan for the second year running.

A relentless perfectionist, Chen ponders further refinements to Le Moût. Over the next two years she plans to cut by half the current seating of forty-five in order to focus on details and feature more à la minute cuisine.

“I want people truly to taste the freshness of the ingredients and appreciate the sharp definition in my dishes,” she explains.

Chen has dreams of opening a second restaurant – perhaps one that will emphasize authentic Chinese flavors, maybe with an original style of presentation not necessarily French? “It’s like when you’re falling in love,” she says. “You know it’s right when you feel the sparkle.”

Oysters and Pearls, Lemon Butter and Turnip 吉拉朵生蚝，珍珠，柠檬奶油，芜菁 An homage to a Thomas Keller signature ​ dish, Chen replaces his pearl tapioca and caviar with Taiwanese tapioca poached in Chinese ham stock that is lightly seasoned with Sichuan peppers. Employing a classic French technique, she infuses a Gillardeau oyster with flavor by delicately poaching it in lemon beurre monté and then tops it with turnip spirals and espuma. 一道向名厨Thomas Keller致敬的经典菜 肴, 陈岚舒用四川胡椒调味过的水煮台湾 木薯取代珍珠木薯和鱼子酱, 以经典法式 烹调技巧, 把法国进口吉拉朵生蚝小心翼 翼地浸在柠檬奶油酱中, 再以芜菁和泡沫 点缀上方, 重新诠释这道Thomas Keller 的经典风味。

Rainbow Trout Confit, Ikura, Sweet Pea, Caper Sauce, Marjoram and Basil Sprouts 油封鳟鲑，鲑鱼子，甜豌豆、酸豆，马郁兰与罗勒 Chen brightens up salmon grenobloise with seasonal sweet peas and gives it a hint of summer with a dollop of marjoram oil. 烹调这道香煎鲑鱼时，陈岚舒先用时令甜豌豆​ 增添风味，再用少量马郁兰油点缀出一丝夏日气息。

对于乐沐随着时间逐渐步上轨道这件 事，陈岚舒倒是充满信心。从一开始只是 想实现把一间优雅的法国餐厅移植到台湾 的单纯理念，逐渐转化为她沉浸在过往那 段美好时光的独特方式。「在法国，我学习 到将各种食材和味道结合的传统料理方式， 但在这里，我发现了在法国传统料理中找 不到的，那就是新鲜、高品质和拥有多层 次风味的在地食材，当下我了解到，我可 以用它们做出更好的料理。」 在备料过程、烹饪技巧、酱汁艺术以 及 坚 持 使 用 世 界 最 上 等 食 材， 如 日 本 和

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牛、法国佩里戈尔顶级黑松露，以及西班 牙 伊 比 利 火 腿 BELLOTA 等 等 方 面， 她 都保留了制作法国传统料理的精随。陈岚 舒擅长揉合台湾当地食材，创造出绝无仅 有的味觉体验，这是在法国或中国任何餐 厅里都尝不到的。 陈岚舒说 ： 「就好像把各种美好的能 量注入到菜肴里－味道、鲜度、质感，最 后让这道料理变得光彩耀眼！」料理中大 胆诱人却又难以言喻的特质，不断为她取 得各种国际间的殊荣与认可，包括获选为 2014 年 Veuve Clicquot 亚 洲 最 佳 女 厨 师

奖，而乐沐也连续两年获封为 S.Pellegrino 台湾最佳餐厅。 身为一位努力不懈的完美主义者，陈 岚舒不断思考着如何让乐沐更上层楼。接 下来两年她打算将现有的 45 个座位减半， 专注在各个微小细节，并开始主打现点现 做的特色菜肴。 「希望顾客从我的餐点当中， 品尝到食材的新鲜和料理的用心。」 陈岚舒曾梦想开第二家餐厅，或许以全 新面貌提供正统中式料理，不一定是法式餐 厅？她表示 ： 「就像陷入爱情时，你能感受到 那份耀眼光芒，毋庸置疑，那就是对的。 」

TASTING DESTINATION

MAKITO HIRATSUKA, PASTRY CHEF Makito Hiratsuka was trained in Japan and France. He has worked at such worldfamous restaurants as André in Singapore and El Celler de Can Roca and elBulli in Spain. Along the way he has mastered every manifestation of his art form, the airy cakes of Japan, the classic genoise and éclairs of France, the avantgarde pastry and confectionery of contemporary Spain, the exotic fresh fruits of Singapore.

At Le Moût Hiratsuka has found the ideal place to freely explore his imagination and give it the widest possible expression in his plated desserts. “When I’m devising a main dessert at Le Moût,” he says, “I’m able to put my entire culinary philosophy into it.” Hiratsuka sees his creations as the medium through which he can tell a story or give patrons a glimpse into his mental world.

Every tasting menu at Le Moût includes two main desserts, one named Arashiyama after a favorite district outside Kyoto that serves as inspiration. The area is remarkable for its changing beauty throughout the year – pink sakura blossoms in spring, feathery green bamboo in summer, brilliant splashes of foliage in fall, and stark white mountain vistas in winter. “I’m happy when diners recognize some aspect of the place in my work that evokes a memory,” says Hiratsuka. “Or if they’ve never been there, I hope it might motivate them to visit.”

Duck Breast, Tikka Sauce, Beetroot, Green Cardamom and Pearl Barley 豪野鸭胸，印度提卡， 甜菜，绿豆蔻，洋薏仁 Tikka sauce has been on the shelf of Chen’s mental flavor library for nearly five years.

“I had a memorable experience at The Chinnery in the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong,” she says. “I tasted the roundness and depth in the cuisine and I felt quite strongly I could use it as a highlight in a dish.” She pairs the mildly acidic sauce with the sweet and densely flavorful Challans duck breast and lightens the dish with a colorful array of beetroot. 风味浓郁的印度提卡酱，几乎是陈岚舒这 五年来精神味蕾上难以取代的选择。她回 忆道：「我在香港文华东方酒店里的千日 里吧，有一段很难忘的回忆，我品尝到菜 肴里的完整和深度，而那强烈的感觉促使 我把它做为作为我料理中的一大亮点。」 后来，她把口感温润的微酸酱汁和香甜味 浓的夏隆鸭胸搭配，并用色彩色鲜艳的甜 菜根将料理点亮。 formosa influence

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西点主厨 平冢牧人 平冢牧人曾在日本和法国学艺，也曾在新加坡 André、西班牙 El Celler de

Can Roca 及 elBulli 等世界知名餐厅工作。一路走来，平冢牧人逐渐驾驭各种 艺术形式的表现，不论是日本的空气蛋糕、经典法式热内亚蛋糕塔、法式闪 电泡芙、西班牙当红的前卫甜点和糕点，或是新加坡的热带水果都难不倒他。 在乐沐法式餐厅这个理想的所在，平冢牧人得以驰骋在自己天马行空的 想像力中，并透过一道道甜点作品，巨细靡遗地描绘出一趟丰富的味觉之旅。 平冢牧人说 ： 「当我在构思一道新甜点时，会倾注所有的烹饪哲学全心投入。 」 他透露，借着一道道甜点，可用来诉说动人的故事，抑或可窥探他内心的感 动与灵感。 每款餐单都附上两道甜点，其中一道是以京都近郊非常受欢迎的岚山作 为命名灵感。岚山因其四季更迭的美景闻名－春天盛开的粉红樱花、盛夏里的 茂密竹林、秋天纷飞的落叶和凛冬的纯白山景。平冢牧人说 ： 「我很开心顾客 能在我的作品里看见岚山的某些景色，进而唤起一段美好的回忆。或者，如果 他们还未到过岚山， 我也希望透过我的作品， 可以激起他们去拜访那里的冲动。 」

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Nymphéas 睡莲 “I first saw Monet’s lily pond ten years ago, and I knew that one day I would do something with it as a dessert,” says Hiratsuka.

“When I came to Taiwan and saw the variety of ingredients available, I realized it was finally the moment to do it.” He brings the famous painting to life with a vibrant concoction of jasmine tea soup, sweet bean curd, winter melon jelly, and elderflower ice, then garnishes the dish with a beguiling mélange of lotus seeds, goji berries, nasturtium leaves, and begonia flowers. 平冢提到：「十年前当我第一次看到莫内的睡莲池塘时，我就知 道有一天它会成为我创作甜点的构思。当我来到台湾，看到各种 可供选择的丰富食材，我意识到机会来了。」平冢将这幅名画变 得栩栩如生，他把茉莉花茶、甜豆腐、冬瓜冻和接骨木花，调和 成丰富和谐的基底，再用以莲子、枸杞、金莲花、海棠花融合出 的绚烂色彩来装饰摆盘。

Arashiyama Summer 岚山夏季 Hiratsuka’s dessert arouses the emotions as well as the senses by recreating a miniature grove of bamboo-shaped matcha meringues and bamboo-leaf tuiles made from white chocolate and matcha. The tastes and scents of the season are recalled by watermelon rind julienne, kuzu mocha with watermelon and edamame, fresh pink grapefruit, and jelly infused with grapefruit peel and the scent of burnt rind. 平冢牧人以微型竹林的独特风味甜点，唤起感官的美食之旅。他以白巧 克力和抹茶为材料，做出竹子状的抹茶蛋酥，和竹叶状的瓦片饼干，来 仿造岚山夏季的竹林，再以西瓜皮切丝、混着西瓜和毛豆的葛根摩卡、 新鲜葡萄柚、和注入柚子皮跟焦化果皮气味的果冻，重塑京都岚山夏季 清新却又带着温热气息的风味和气味。

Imperial Jiu Gong Ge ​ Appetizer ​ 九宫阁开胃小品

TASTING DESTINATION

尊爵不凡的灵感

imperial inspirations Mandarin Oriental, Taipei and Legle open the latest chapter in the Ruyi Gastronomy study of Chinese dining and history.

烹饪灵感的来源不一而足。有些主厨运用 INSPIRATION MAY BE DRAWN from many 新食材来拓展多元美馔，有些主厨则大胆 sources. Some chefs start with new ingre创新，为经典佳肴增添当代新意。而台北 dients and explore the possibilities. Others 文华东方酒店主厨黄天武为雅阁中餐厅设 modernize classics with daring innovations. 计的全新如意宴品馔菜单，则以用餐器皿 But when Chef Tin Mo Wong designed his 的选择为重。 new Ru Yi Yan tasting menu for Ya Ge at 雅阁中餐厅与法国顶级瓷 Mandarin Oriental, Taipei, it 器品牌丽固合作，致力探索当 BY ​ all began with the tableware. 代中式高级美馔。丽固如意宴 MAMIE CHEN Ya Ge is the most recent 已在上海和香港率先策展，如 restaurant to collaborate with 今来到北京和台北，以全新风 PHOTOGRAPHY BY luxury porcelain maker Legle 貌演绎地方菜色，向世界级主 DAVID HARTUNG in its ongoing exploration of 厨下战帖 ：亦即以在地顶级食 modern Chinese haute cuisine. 材，搭配饰有精美花纹与细致线条的丽固 Legle’s Ruyi Gastronomy, which has toured 如意瓷器。 Shanghai, Hong Kong, and now Beijing and 黄天武花半年研拟菜单，细心考量瓷 Taipei, delves into new interpretations of 器的尺寸、形状和颜色，以及设计背后的 regional cuisines, challenging world-class 历史脉络。他介绍蓝色钧窑宽金边餐盘时 chefs to pair the finest local ingredients 说： 「盘内空间很小，我选择的食材除了得 with the striking patterns and delicate lines 合乎餐盘大小，还得是典雅珍馐，才能搭 of Legle’s Ruyi chinaware collection. 配金边。」于是，缀以金箔的北海道干贝就 Devoting half a year to researching 恰如其分 ；干贝宛如宝石，映着蓝底金边， and planning the menu, Wong carefully

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↑↑ Double-boiled Gastrodia and Quail in Supreme Soup 益脑鹌鹑养生汤 ↑ Braised Japanese Cucumber with Conpoy, Fish Maw, ​ Red Date and Taiwanese Red Barley 渔舟唱晚次第来

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considered the sizes, shapes, and colors of the china as well as the historical contexts from which the designs are drawn. “The inside area is quite small,” he remarks of a shallow blue bowl with a patterned gold flange. “Whatever I select has to fit the space, but it must be an exquisite delicacy to match the gold rim.” A Hokkaido scallop topped with gold leaf achieves the goal. Set off like a jewel against the blue and gold, the scallop has the succulent sweet flesh that Sung dynasty poet Su Tung-p’o praised for “possessing a lofty character. One can consume a whole plate, leaving none.”

A greater challenge was the Jiu Gong Ge square platter with nine individually designed small dishes. The number nine was considered auspicious by the imperial rulers, and the dishes feature such dynastic design influences as pea green clouds from the Song, blue and white porcelain from the Ming, and underglaze red decorations from the Yuan.

“This dish gave me a six-month headache,” Wong smiles. “You can’t fill them with just anything. It was a very complicated process.”

The final result is an array of appetizers that is a masterpiece of visual contrasts, each dish a micro-celebration of distinctively Taiwanese ingredients. The chewy skin of ocean sunfish recalls Taiwan’s famous tapioca balls.

Spinach and Cordyceps militaris fungus are playfully shaped to resemble the expensive Tibetan Cordyceps sinensis. Dried mullet roe, traditionally eaten with raw daikon or garlic, is paired with pickled daikon and served atop taro and strawberry jam.

Presented as an exclusive tasting menu that runs from June 22 to November 30, the Ru Yi Yan experience is an authentic reflection of Wong’s personal style of fresher, lighter cooking that is also evident in his more traditional Cantonese cuisine. “In the past, we might have used more oil and cooked over fiercely high heat,” he says. “But we’ve modernized our approach to make it healthier.”

That means less oil and smaller portions, but always the finest ingredients. “And of course, our local products are excellent. For a chef, Taiwan is a treasure island.”

Executive Chinese Chef Tin Mo Wong 中餐行政主厨黄天武

TASTING DESTINATION

Seared Hokkaido Scallop 米果巧托玉瑶柱

“Whatever I select has to fit the space, but it must be an exquisite delicacy to match the gold rim. 我选择的食材除了得合乎 餐盘大小，还得是典雅珍 馐，才能搭配金边。”

口感多汁鲜甜，无怪乎宋朝诗人苏东坡曾 盛赞干贝「格韵高绝，盘飧尽废」。 更艰巨的挑战莫过于九宫格开胃小品， 上头九道小点皆独树一格。数字「九」在 帝王眼中象征至尊吉祥，盛装小碟样式华 美，彰显不同朝代特色，如宋代天青色钧窑、 明朝青花瓷、元朝釉里红瓷等等。黄天武 笑说 ： 「这道开胃小品让我头痛了足足六个 月，食材可不能胡乱搭配，过程非常复杂。」 最后呈现的开胃小品，堪称完美的视 觉飨宴，具有鲜明对比，每道小品皆反映 台湾道地食材特色 ：曼波鱼肉质的嚼劲让 人联想起台湾著名的珍珠圆口感 ；菠菜虫 草花像极了昂贵的西藏冬虫夏草 ；向来佐 生萝卜或大蒜的乌鱼子，这回则佐以腌萝 卜，底下铺有芋头草莓酱。 台北如意宴独家菜色从 6 月 22 日起至 11 月 30 日为飨客提供品尝机会，每道佳 肴皆反映了黄天武注重鲜味与淡雅的个人 烹饪风格，并揉合了较为传统的粤式料理。 他说道 ： 「过去我们可能会加比较多油，并 且用大火翻炒，但是我们已经把烹调方法 现代化，让食物更加健康美味。」对他来说， 这就代表少油少量，但仍坚持顶级食材。 「当然，在地的农产品和食材都是一流的。 台湾真的是厨师的宝岛。」 formosa influence

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热火朝天集市日

Market Day The controlled chaos at Taiwan’s largest fruit and vegetable market plays out between buyers, auctioneers, and thousands of tons of fresh produce.

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STARTING AROUND 3:30 in the afternoon number doubles at Chinese New Year, with and continuing well on into the wee hours, trucks still idling outside well after the hundreds of trucks loaded with morning’s auction has begun.

BY thousands of tons of fresh fruits The capital’s two produce MAMIE CHEN and vegetables will jam into the markets are by far the largest in Taipei First Wholesale Fruit and the nation, with the Taipei First PHOTOGRAPHY BY Vegetable Market on Wanda Wholesale Market handling DAVID HARTUNG Road. A typical summer day twice the quantity of the Taipei sees workers unload more than Second. The prices set by auc90,000 packing units of produce into the tions at these two sites have considerable vast empty volume of the auction hall. The influence over those at the fifty-two other

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wholesale markets around the country. In fact, bringing consistency and transparency to market prices was one of the reasons the Taiwanese government in the 1970s mandated an overhaul of Taipei’s original Central Market into an auction-driven setup under the management of the semi-private-sector Taipei Agricultural Products Marketing Company (TAPMC).

The sheer numbers of boxes of fruit, baskets of cabbage, crates of leafy greens, and

sacks of root vegetables are dizzying, but all of them are delivered with impressive efficiency to their designated areas in the hall, stacked in orderly rows, and marked with lot numbers. Lot sizes are surprisingly small, given the overall volume of merchandise.

The row for lot #220, for example, contains just 126 of the 5,785 boxes of pineapples offered in the marketplace that day.

The auctioneers, thirty-five for vegetables and sixteen for fruit, begin inspecting the

produce under their purview hours before the start of business. Based on a number of factors, including the quantity and quality of that day’s arrivals, prices from the previous day, prevailing weather conditions, and the day of the week, the auctioneers determine the opening price for each lot and key the information into the computerized system.

Many of the produce buyers, 1,300 of whom are registered for vegetables, 650 for fruit, have also begun trickling in to make

their own minute inspections, taking careful note of preferred lots and perhaps snitching an item here and there to confirm that the cherry tastes as good as it looks. TAPMC’s official policy forbids sampling, but the staff generally turns a blind eye to a couple of grapes or an occasional lychee. For larger fruits and vegetables, the buyers must rely on external clues and their knowledge of the place of origin and the supplier’s reputation.

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of the product, the more willing they will be to bid up the price in the auction,” says Wang Hong-xiong, Director of Taipei First Wholesale Fruit and Vegetable Market.

The action officially begins at 3:30 in the morning. A cacophony erupts as fifty auctions begin all at once, and the energy in the hall turns palpable. Buyers throng around the posts of the auctioneers, furiously shouting out their bids above the others. The first transactions are completed within 6 seconds,

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and entire lots are sold and closed out before a full minute has passed.

Auctioneers handle an average of 400 transactions per morning, doing their best to close as many as possible in the earliest hours when key buyers are still around to bid on the higher-priced, higher-quality lots. By 6 a.m., transactions tend to shift inevitably from strict auctions to more flexible negotiations. “The prettiest fruit gets sold first.

Then it’s up to the auctioneer to promote

the remaining lots,” says Wang. “Almost everything will be sold eventually, it’s all just a matter of price.”

Two types of auctions are held at the First Wholesale Market. All vegetables and most fruits are sold through open ascending price auctions in which the auctioneer announces the opening price and the bidders push it up. If the highest bidder does not purchase the entire lot, the auction resumes for the remaining units. Whether the price shifts

up or down from there depends on the prevailing market conditions.

Fifteen years ago, TAPMC experimented with a second type, open descending price auctions using electronic bidding devices for four randomly selected fruits: guavas, papayas, cherry tomatoes, and oranges. The auctioneer starts with a high asking price and progressively lowers it until a buyer buzzes in to purchase a quantity at the last stated price. Limitations in the technology

prevented extension of the program to other produce segments, but a decade and a half later, the same four fruits continue to be sold in the same “experimental” manner.

As transactions are completed, buyers arrange for workers to transport their purchases to wholesaler stalls or delivery trucks.

An organized chaos ensues as TAPMC staff and buyers continue to traverse the hall between ongoing auctions, weaving between hand-pulled trolleys and dodging electric

carts laden with cartons of kumquats and kale.

By noon, the auction hall is cleared of all merchandise. Any unsold items which are less perishable, like cucumbers and squash, may be stacked in a corner and brought back out for the next day’s auction. But the cleaning crew will throw out any unsold fruits and vegetables with the swept-up market waste, and the echoing space will get a few hours’ rest before the next frantic cycle begins. formosa influence

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“ The prettiest fruit gets sold first. Then it’s up to the auctioneer to promote the remaining lots.

卖相最好的水果最快卖完，拍卖官会对余下产品进行促销售卖。“

过百辆货车满载上千吨的新鲜蔬果涌入万 大路上的台北市第一果菜批发市场。它的 营业时间大约从下午三点半开始，持续到 隔日凌晨。在一个稀松平常的夏日里，你 可以看见工人将超过九万个产品卸载到广 大空荡的拍卖大厅。过年时这数量还会翻 倍，即使早晨的拍卖已经开始，大厅外仍 有许多货车在徘徊等候。 全国最大的两个批发市场都位于首都 台北，而台北第一果菜批发市场的产品量 是台北第二果菜批发市场的两倍。这两个 地方所订的商品价格对全国其他 52 个批发 市场有相当大的影响力。事实上，提供稳 定透明的市场价格正是 1970 年代台湾政府 授权翻修台北旧时的中央市场的原因。现 在的批发市场由半私营部门台北农产运销 股份有限公司 (TAPMC) 管理，以喊价拍卖 为主要销售方式。 一箱箱数量庞大的水果、一篮篮白菜、 叶菜以及一袋袋根茎类蔬菜，令人目不暇 给，但它们全都以令人钦佩的效率抵达指 定的大厅位置，整齐地堆叠且标上批号。 与产品总量相比，批量出乎预料地小。举 例来说，批号 220 只包含当天市场中 5785 箱凤梨中的 126 箱。 生意开始之前，拍卖官会先在他们授 权时间内检验产品。蔬菜类有 35 位拍卖 官，水果类则有 16 位。拍卖官会根据一 些因素，比如当天产品的数量、品质、前 一天的价格、当时天气状况以及当天星期

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几，决定每个批次的开盘价，并将资料输 入电脑系统。 许 多 买 家 (1300 位 登 记 蔬 菜 类，650 位登记水果类 ) 也开始在这段时间鱼贯进 入市场，来亲自检验这些产品，留意喜欢 的批货，甚至偷吃一点，确认樱桃真的如 同外表看起来的那般好吃。 TAPMC 规定禁止试吃，但工作人员 多半对试吃葡萄、荔枝等小型水果的试吃 行为睁一只眼闭一只眼。对于大一点的水 果和蔬菜，买家必须仰赖外观提示以及他 们对于产地及供应商风评的了解来判断。 台北市第一果菜批发市场主任王鸿雄说道 ： 「他们对产品品质越有信心，就越愿意在拍 卖中喊价。」 拍卖从早上三点半正式开始。大厅里 满溢蓄势待发的能量，当 50 个拍卖会同时 开始进行时，现场瞬间人声鼎沸。买家挤 在拍卖官身边，拼命喊出比他人高的价格。 第一场交易在六秒内结束，整批货也在一 分钟内迅速售完。 拍卖官一个早上平均要处理 400 笔交 易，越早卖完越好。他们尽可能地在关键 买家还在的时候，将品质最好、价格较高 的产品售出。到早上 6 点的时候，交易方 式通常会从严格的拍卖转换为较有弹性的 商量。 王鸿雄表示 ： 「卖相最好的水果最 快卖完，接下来就任由拍卖官促销剩余的 产品。几乎所有的东西最后都会售出，只 是价格的问题。」

台北第一果菜批发市场有两种拍卖。 所有的蔬菜和大部分的水果都经由公开往 上喊价的方式拍卖售出，拍卖官先宣布开 盘价，让投标人将价格往上推。如果得标 者不购买整批货，拍卖就会回锅给剩余的 单位。在此之后价格的浮动则取决于当时 的市场状况。 十五年前，TAPMC 尝试用第二种方 式进行拍卖，那就是以公开降价的方式拍 卖售出。利用电子投标仪器随机选定四种 水果 ：芭乐、木瓜、樱桃、番茄和柳丁。 拍卖官由高开价开始，逐渐降价直到有买 家愿意用最后提到的价格购买相当的数量。 碍于科技的限制，这个系统无法延用到其 他产品，但十五年后，同样的四种水果仍 用这种「实验性」的方式售出。 交易完成后，买家安排工人运送货物 到批发商摊位或货车上。乱中有序的情况 随之而来，TAPMC 员工和买家不断在大 厅里此起彼落的拍卖声间疾走，在手推车 和满载一箱箱金桔和羽衣甘蓝的电子推车 之间穿梭。 到了中午，拍卖大厅的商品已经一扫 而空。未售出且较不易腐坏的产品，例如 小黄瓜和南瓜，可能被堆叠在角落，次日 再拿出来拍卖。 清理小组会将任何未售出的蔬果与市 场垃圾一并清除，这个回荡着叫卖声的空 间，在下个忙碌的周期开始之前，才终于 能够歇息上几小时。

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A worker barely pauses to look both ways before turning, multitasking by taking a call while transporting produce from the auction warehouse to delivery trucks. 工人转身前忙不迭的看着两边，讲电话同时忙着把农产品从拍卖仓库送到货运卡车上。

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在地气息 诱人美味

A Sense of Place Mamie Chen visits Mume in Taipei to talk with founder/chef Richie Lin and chefs Kai Ward and Long Xiong about their affinity for local produce.

How do you discover new ones?

KW: Our sous chefs are Taiwanese, and we work with local food writers and people with more knowledge, especially about the aboriginal produce. They help us source things and expose us to ingredients much more quickly than we’d have found them on our own.

We visited one of our farmers in Tainan and walked around pointing: “Can you eat this? Can you eat that?” We came across a little nut and were just about to eat it when he stopped us: “Don’t eat that. It’s poisonous and will make you sick for days.”

We also saw a few wild things growing along the fence. They were really small with a spiky leaf around the outside. The aroma was like banana, but inside it was passion fruit. “That’s wild passion fruit. You can eat that.” Unfortunately, it was the end of the

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What‘s your philosophy at Mume?

Richie Lin: Our cuisine is modern European, but driven by local ingredients.

At least 85–90 percent are locally sourced.

Long Xiong: There’s still a lot of agriculture here, and people are proud of what they’re growing. We want to showcase that.

Our food should reflect where we are.

RL: We want to explore what Taiwan has to offer. It’s exciting here because the produce is so seasonal. That can be limiting, but we also view it as a way to be creative.

LX: The seasons can end quite quickly.

We’ve created dishes around a bountiful fruit only to suddenly be told that it’s out of season. Now we know that if kumquats are in season, we need to jump on it, get twenty or forty kilos, process it, and save as much as we can as candied kumquats and jams that we can use until we get them fresh again.

Kai Ward: This is our first year and we’re still discovering what’s fresh and when. We’ll start to explore what we’ve preserved and see the other end of the spectrum of that ingredient.

Kai Ward, Long Xiong and Richie Lin Kai Ward，熊龙和林泉

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LX: The local potatoes are sweeter. I tried to make a pomme purée, but it came out sweet, in a way that I didn’t necessarily want. So do you import potatoes or make sweeter pomme purée?

Mamie Chen 造 访 台 北「Mume」 餐 厅， 访问创办人兼主厨林泉（Richie Lin) 以及 Kai Ward 、熊龙 (Long Xiong) 两位大厨， 畅谈在地食材让人爱不释手的魅力所在。

产达人合作无间。除了提供进货建议，他 们也以最及时的速度向我们介绍各式食材， 比自己做省力多了。我们之前拜访台南的 合作农家，到田里边走边问 ： 「这可以吃 吗？」、 「那个呢？」看起来简直像走火入魔， 东西抓着就要放进嘴巴，急得农家赶紧高 声制止 ： 「不能吃，那个有毒，吃进肚子保 准得病好几天！」 接着我们发现沿围篱有几搓野生植物， 很小株、外缘长着尖刺状叶片，散发香蕉 般的气息，但内部则是浓浓的百香果味。 农家说，「那是野百香果，可以吃喔。」可 惜当时已是产季尾声，明年我们会旧地重 游，看能激发出什么美味火花。摆盘时希 望能呈现整颗水果，让饕客看清楚野百香 果的原貌。 LX: 我们前进市场寻找所需，和农家 交换意见，有时看到会感兴趣的东西，他 们还主动寄过来。对于从未用过的食材， 可能先以过往经验为师，搜寻有相同性质 的食材以兹比较 , 抑或找出特质所在。 RL: 一旦挖掘出新东西，我们会开始 做各种试验 – 炙烧、热煮、川烫去皮、加 工等，看哪种方式出来的结果最有趣。 KW: 蔬菜因为栽种方式、土壤或气候 差异，呈现的味道可能完全不同，很多时 候需要适时调整 , 菜单几乎一半都改过了 吧。在地释迦所含糖份很高，比其他地方 甜得多。即便萝卜及洋葱也大大不同。 LX: 台产马铃薯味道较甜，做成的马 铃薯泥也偏甜，和我原本想做的有落差。

「Mume」的理念为何？ Richie Lin: 菜色展现的是现代欧洲风 格，但创作动力来自当地食材，至少 85% 到 90% 都是地方产地直送。 Long Xiong: 台 湾 丰 裕 富 饶 的 农 产， 正是人们引以为豪的来源，他们对栽种的 作物极有自信，这也正是餐厅想展现的特 点，毕竟所吃的食物本该反映我们的生活。 RL:「Mume」不断挖掘台湾孕育的各 式农产，搭配不同季节的时令产品，做起 来真的很过瘾。季节限定当然有所挑战， 却也是激发创意的好机会。 LX: 季节来得快去得更快，我们用大 量水果入菜，但没用多久产季便戛然而止。 现在我们有经验了，知道金桔正当时，就 要把握时间一次进货 20 到 40 公斤，在最 短时间内加工处理，做成糖渍金桔或果酱 保存，留用到下回盛产时节为止。 Kai Ward: 餐厅开张还不到一年，我 们还在四处寻觅最新鲜、最当季的食材， 也会继续开发手上所有食材的可能性，玩 出全然不同的新作法。 如何发掘新食材？ KW:「Mume」 的 副 厨 都 是 台 湾 人， 餐厅也和美食作家及专家，特别是土生农

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What did you decide?

LX: I stopped making pomme purée [laughter]. Generally I won’t make a dish if the product doesn’t suffice, or I’ll play with it in another way that’s in line with what we want to do. We can’t be determined to use local ingredients at the expense of the quality of the dish. We want to use the best ingredients, and fortunately the best is usually what’s grown here, fresh and in season.

Why did you choose to open a restaurant in Taiwan?

RL: When Long and I were helping open Nur in Hong Kong, I saw the limitations of working in places that rely so much on imported produce.

LX: You can import lots of really nice ingredients in Hong Kong, but it’s hard to differentiate yourself from the others who are importing the same things. Here, we can make the effort to find good farmers and build relationships with them. It’s a huge benefit for us to have an outsider’s perspective on Taiwan, because we don’t have preconceived notions about how a particular ingredient should be treated.

KW: We’ve started inviting guest chefs.

We’ve had Chef Frederico from Per Se and we have another one coming up with my old head chef from Quay. We’re trying to expose Taiwan to things going on across the ocean, and vice versa. It’s exciting for us and moving much faster than we had expected.

RL: People have always talked about Taiwan as a great foodie destination, but it was in the context of night markets. Now, hopefully, with Mume and other new restaurants like ours, we’re opening up different options for people to enjoy.

这种情况下，是该从其他地方进马铃薯， 或妥协做较甜的马铃薯泥呢？

最后的决定为何？ LX: 就不做马铃薯泥了 ( 笑 )。一道菜 如果食材不达要求，我通常就不做了，不 然就是换个方式处理，才能符合餐厅的标 准，总不能为了将就地方食材就牺牲了料 理的品质。「Mume」想用的是最好的食材， 很幸运的，常常最好的也都来自产地。 为何选择在台湾开餐厅？ RL: 熊 龙 和 我 在 香 港 协 助 筹 备 开 设 「Nur」的时候，察觉到当大部分食材需要 进口时，也会让餐厅发展受限。 LX: 香港可以进口各种高品质的食材， 但若其他餐厅也买进同样产品，如何做出 差异可就是一大难题了。在台湾，我们努 力寻找好的农家，和他们建立良好的关系 , 有很多机会做一些特别的事。同时又能以 外来的眼光观察台湾，也是一大优势，对 于食材该怎么运用没有既定的成见。 KW:「Mume」也开始邀请客座厨师， 如「Per Se」主厨 Frederico，过去我在「Quay」 的主厨也即将大展身手，就是想让台湾体 验地球另一端的美食趋势，彼此交流。 RL: 大 家 常 说 台 湾 是 美 食 天 堂， 但 似 乎 只 局 限 在 夜 市 而 已。 现 在， 希 望 在 「Mume」及其他新兴餐厅同好的努力下， 造访台湾的人们可以享受不同选择带来的 全新体验。 DAVID HARTUNG

season for it. We’ll go back next year and see if we can come up with a dish. It would be nice to present the whole fruit so people can see exactly what it looks like.

LX: We explore the market and talk to the farmers. Sometimes they just send us stuff they think we’ll find interesting. If we’ve never worked with an ingredient, we might find similarities with something else from the past. Or we’ll find its special qualities and just go with it.

RL: When we find something new, we experiment – we will grill it, poach it, blanch it, and process it to see which method brings out the most interesting side.

KW: Vegetables can take on different flavors here because of the way they are grown or the soil or the climate. So we do a lot of adapting – I’ve changed about half my recipes. The sugar levels in the local custard apples are completely different, they’re a lot sweeter. Even carrots and onions can be different.

Arrowhead and Betel Nut Flower 慈姑和槟榔花

INGREDIENTS

KANPACHI WITH LEMON VERBENA AND DILL OIL, SHAVED WATERMELON RADISH, DEHYDRATED SCALLOP CHIP, FRIED ARROWHEAD, FRIED BETEL NUT FLOWER, AND MAY CHANG 红魽佐柠檬马鞭草、莳萝油、西瓜萝卜丝、干扇贝片、竹芋片、炸槟榔花及野生马告椒

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Betel Nut Flower

Betel nuts are legal stimulants, so popular that they’re known as “Taiwanese chewing gum.” The scantily clad “betel nut beauties” who sell them from neon-lit roadside stands across the country are unmistakable, if dubious, icons of the culture. Although betel nut chewing is increasingly viewed as a dirty and even dangerous habit, the blossom of the plant is a benign edible flower that comes into bloom for a few short weeks as late spring turns into early summer.

Subtly sweet, with a crisp, firm texture similar to hearts of palm or bamboo shoots, betel nut flowers are traditionally stir-fried in Taiwanese cuisine, but Chef Richie deep-fries them to create striking, coral-like showpieces for the dish.

Arrowhead

Many people may readily recognize arrowhead in its powdered form as a gluten-free flour and thickening agent. Whole arrowhead is a starchy tuber similar to a water chestnut, which is typically cut into small chunks and cooked in soups or stir-fries around Chinese New Year. Chef Richie slices it thinly and fries it like a chip to bring out its natural sweetness. The arrowhead chips and the fried betel nut flowers together add crispy contrast to the tender kanpachi.

May Chang (Mountain Pepper)

An exciting find for the Mume team, wild may chang is native to the mountainous areas of Taiwan and is famously associated with the Atayal aboriginal tribe. With a surprising lemon-like fragrance, may chang is added to the dish at the last moment as an aromatic seasoning and combines well with the lemon verbena and dill oil for a refreshingly light taste.

槟榔花 槟榔为合法的提神刺激性食品，有「台式口香糖」之称，在台湾受欢迎的程度可见一斑。 各地路边一座座闪烁霓虹光影的槟榔摊内， 只见穿着清凉的「槟榔西施」兜售贩卖槟榔， 这正是台湾在地文化的象征之一。尽管嚼槟榔逐渐与肮脏、 或危险的不良习惯划上等号， 槟榔树长出的花朵却是良性的食用花，于春末初夏之际开花，花期仅有短短数周。槟 榔花带细致甜韵，口感爽脆扎实，类似棕榈心或竹笋，台菜中常快炒处理，但主厨林 泉选择高温油炸槟榔花，起锅后有如珊瑚一般，是这道菜吸睛度十足的美丽装饰。

慈姑 大多数的人对粉状慈姑较为熟悉，知道是无麸质面粉，或当增稠剂使用。整颗慈姑为 富含淀粉的块茎类植物，长得类似荸荠。通常切小块，农历年时用来煮汤或油炸食用。 林泉将慈姑切成细片，炸成薯片一般，展现天然的甜味。慈姑片及炸槟榔花带来酥脆

DAVID HARTUNG

口感，与细嫩的红魽成为完美对比。

马告(山胡椒) 台湾山区的原生种野生马告为「Mume」团队的意外收获，也与原住民泰雅族有密不可 分的关系。马告散发浓郁的柠檬香气， 令人惊喜， 于上桌前一刻入菜， 除了作为香料调味， 也与柠檬马鞭草及莳萝油搭配搭配绝妙，带来一新耳目的清爽滋味。

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INGREDIENTS

SEARED PORK COLLAR WITH BABY CORN, CHARRED CABBAGE, SHAVED RAW TURNIPS, PICKLED CHILIES, PRESERVED GREEN MANGO, NASTURTIUM CAPERS, AND SALSA VERDE 炙烧猪颈肉佐玉米笋、焦甘蓝、生芜菁丝、腌辣椒、渍青芒果、金莲花酸豆及墨西哥青酱

Local Green Mangoes

Although supplanted in popularity today by the larger and less fibrous red Irwin cultivar, the local green mango is still prized for its firmer flesh and earthier, more robust flavor and fragrance. Chef Long recalls walking through the market when green mangoes had first come into season: “There was an intense aroma of green mango that was so potent – it was just begging to be used.”

Unripe green mangoes are crunchy and extremely sour, but when macerated in sugar to balance the acid and served ice cold, the candied product is sold as a refreshing treat at the night markets. Chef Long dries green mango and preserves it with sugar, slicing the fruit into thin julienne to serve as delicate counterpoint to the pork collar.

Nasturtium Capers

Authentic capers from the Capparis spinosa shrub aren’t produced in Taiwan. When the chefs at Mume need a similarly salty, tangy kick for a dish, they use their own homemade pickled nasturtium capers. Consulting with their Tainan farmer, they learned that even though he grows nasturtium, he had never collected the seed pods that appear after the flowers fade. “The flavor isn’t exactly identical to capers,” says Chef Long, “but there is value in that difference.”

土青芒果 现在虽以块头大、好入口的红色艾文芒果为大宗，但土产的青芒果仍以扎实果 肉、更为贴近土地、浓郁的味道及香气为人津津乐道。主厨熊龙想起在市场首 次碰到当季青芒果时依旧印象深刻 ： 「青芒果有着扑鼻而来的强烈气味－简直 像在求别人使用它一样。 」未熟的青芒果口感清脆，极酸，但浸糖水中和酸味后， 冰得清凉来售卖便是夜市中的人气爽口甜品。 熊龙将青芒果放干，用糖腌渍后 切细丝，便是与猪颈肉形成显著比对的完美配菜。

金莲花酸豆 正统酸豆来源，续随子灌木在台湾并未栽种。「Mume」厨师们想着以同样带 咸的呛味来为这道菜增色时，脑筋便动到自家制的腌金莲花酸豆头上。问过台 南农家才知道，即便自己种金莲花，农家也从未捡拾过开花期过后长出的豆荚。 主厨表示 ： 「味道不见得和酸豆一样，但这种差异就是价值所在。 」

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INGREDIENTS

TUBEROSE, KALE, GRILLED GARLIC SCAPES, CHARRED WILD RICE STALK, AND BITTER ALMOND CRÈME FRAÎCHE 晚香玉、羽衣甘蓝、烤蒜芯、焦野稻梗及苦杏仁酸奶

Garlic Scapes

Twisted, tangled, and unruly, garlic scapes are the limegreen flower stalks of the plant that poke from the ground in late spring or early summer for a very short season. Garlic plants are now grown globally for the bulbs, by far the most commonly used part, and the scapes are usually snipped and tossed aside when they come up, to favor the growth of the bulbs.

But Chinese cuisine has traditionally made use of every stage of the plant’s growth, from the young shoots and tender scapes to the more fibrous mature greens and fully developed bulbs. Garlic scapes are tender, with a mild garlic taste that sweetens during cooking.

Wild Rice Stalks

This Asian crop is actually a by-product of a smut fungus attack on the wild rice plant. The infection prevents it from producing seed or the rice grains themselves, and causes the stalks to swell into an edible gall with a texture similar to hearts of palm. Like the other vegetables in the dish, wild rice stalk has a naturally mild flavor. Chef Long enhances it by charring the outside of the stalk on the grill to add another dimension to the dish.

蒜芯 扭曲、纠缠、错节，蒜芯正是地面蒜株长出来的莱姆绿色 花茎，花期为春末初夏，稍纵即逝。大蒜于全球广为栽种， 其球茎蒜头，毫无疑问的，正是全株最常使用的部位 ；而 顺着球茎生长的蒜芯，下场通常是被剪掉，弃置一旁。 但中菜里，植物成长的每个阶段，从幼嫩的蒜苗、偏 软的蒜芯，到较具纤维感的成熟蒜青及已成形球茎皆可入 菜。蒜芯口感柔嫩， 带着轻微蒜味， 料理过程中会越煮越甜。

野稻梗 野稻梗其实可说是野生稻谷在黑穗病肆虐过后的附属品， 野稻因病无法生出种籽，意即稻穗，稻梗发肿形成可食用 的肿块，口感与棕榈心相似。野稻梗和这道菜其他的蔬菜 Garlic Scapes

一样，也微微带着天然的香韵。主厨熊龙把稻梗放到烤网 上烤至焦化，提升香气，也为这道菜再添不同的层次。

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INGREDIENTS

洛神花 洛神花又称为木槿，秋末进入盛产期，可食用部 位为花朵的洋红色萼片，在台湾通常用来制茶、 糖浆或果酱。「Mume」去年开幕时已近洛神花产 期尾声，但主厨们大胆买进 20 公斤，加工制成洛 神花粉、注入物、花冻及果酱以便后续使用。洛 神花特有的酸味不会过呛，用来中和甜点的整体 味道再适合不过。就是拜洛神花之赐，主厨 Kai 得以尽情挥洒所有甜味食材，而不用担心有喧宾 夺主之虞。

莲雾 亮面、粉色果皮加上独一无二的铃状身形，均是 莲雾的正字标记，17 世纪引进之后，至今俨然成 为台湾的代表性水果之一。市面上有各式品种， 不同大小、形状及颜色的莲雾通通找得到，其中 以紫红色泽的「黑珍珠」最受推崇。外皮爽脆细致， 果肉带有孔洞、多汁，口感类似西瓜，味道则是 温和清爽。

苹果香蕉 此土产香蕉因其抢眼的红色外皮， 「苹果香蕉」的 名称开始不胫而走，果肉吃起来和进口种香蕉毫 无二致，只是少了一点甜味。主厨 Kai 把香蕉放 到近乎发酵的「超熟」程度，要的就是那超高甜 度及美味。他接着把香蕉浸到牛奶中，做为香蕉

Hibiscus

冰淇淋的基底。此一过程让香蕉不会氧化，出来 的成品呈淡黄色，而非一般常见「烤香蕉」冰淇

Also known as roselle, hibiscus comes into season in late autumn. The edible portion is the magenta sepals of the blossoms, commonly used throughout Taiwan in teas, syrups, and jams. Mume opened last year toward the end of hibiscus season, but the chefs were able to buy twenty kilos, processing them into powders, infusions, jellies, and jams for later use. The pleasingly tart taste of hibiscus helps bring balance to a dessert, here allowing Chef Kai to maximize the sweet elements without the risk of them overpowering the dish.

淋的咖啡色泽。

Wax Apple

Glossy, pink-skinned, and uniquely bell-shaped, the wax apple was introduced to Taiwan in the seventeenth century and has become one of the nation’s iconic fruits. A number of varieties in a whole range of sizes, shapes, and colors are available in the markets, but the purplishred Black Pearl strain is most sought after. The skin is crisp and delicate, the flesh has a porous and juicy quality similar to watermelon, and the flavor is mild and refreshing.

The local banana is named after the apple simply because of its red skin.

The flesh itself tastes completely of banana, but just a bit less sweet than its imported cousin. Chef Kai ripens the fruit to the point of nearfermentation to ensure that it reaches an exceptional level of sweetness and flavor. He then infuses it into milk and uses the result as the base for his banana ice cream. The infusion process prevents the bananas from oxidizing, yielding a beautiful pale yellow product rather than the commonly seen brownish “roasted banana” ice cream.

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Apple Banana

PLUM AND HIBISCUS GRANITA, FRESH WAX APPLE, FRESH PLUM, BANANA AND VANILLA ICE CREAM, AND HIBISCUS POWDER

梅子及洛神花冰沙、新鲜莲雾、新鲜酸梅、 香蕉及香草冰淇淋与洛神花粉

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PRESENTED BY LAVILLA

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万中精选

choice spot The manager of one of Tsim Tsa Shui’s most colorful dining venues reveals the keys to its allure.

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 US Prime Rib Eye Steak 美国顶级肉眼牛扒

 Assorted Seafood Platter 法式海鲜拼盘

 Salad with Watermelon, Feta Cheese 西瓜沙律配发达芝士

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Norwegian Smoked Salmon & Salmon Roe ​ with Crispy Greens in a Honey Mustard Dressing​ 挪威烟三文鱼,三文鱼子配蜜糖芥茉汁及田园沙律

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

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DURING THE NINE YEARS Farroug Abdelah has helmed LaVilla, the French fusion restaurant in Tsim Tsa Shui, Hong Kong’s intensely competitive hospitality industry has taught him what makes for success: “It comes down to three things—good concept and location, strong management, and, above all, the highest level of food and service.”

He credits the continuing appeal of LaVilla to all three, especially the last.

LaVilla woos guests with internationally sourced, strictly fresh ingredients, presented with utmost simplicity and elegance by head chef Sing Tse, and Abdelah maintains that it’s Chef Sing’s focus, confidence, and sure hand that let the quality and flavors of the ingredients shine through.

Two of LaVilla’s indulgent offerings stand out: its succulent slow-cooked ribeye and an extravagant seafood platter, which has justly earned its renown among LaVilla regulars. Overflowing with fresh whole crab, king prawns, seasonal oysters, and abalone, it’s meant to be shared. “But that doesn’t stop couples from ordering one each, ” says Farroug.

In a town where space equals luxury, LaVilla’s 6,600 square feet are downright decadent. High ceilings―festooned with musical instruments―give an expansive feel, while generous space between tables lends a sense of privacy.

LaVilla doubles as a bar, its exuberant vibe filling the place with gregarious drinkers as well as diners and making it one of Tsim Sha Tsui’s most vibrant gathering spots. “The atmosphere we create has a lot to do with our success,” says Farroug. “Our customers can savor the quiet of an intimate corner, hang out near the high-energy band, or relax outdoors with friends. There aren’t many places in Hong Kong that can offer that range of experiences.”

在过去九年来，Farroug Abdelah 一直执掌香港尖沙咀 的法国餐厅 LaVilla，他在香港竞争激烈的餐饮业历练多 年，领悟到成功的要诀 ： 「餐厅的三个成功要素是 ：出 色的概念与地点、有效的管理，最重要的是，顶级的料 理和服务。 」

LaVilla 在这三方面都表现杰出，料理与服务更 是最具实力。LaVilla 的料理运用绝对新鲜的异国食材， 再加上总厨谢振声的精湛厨艺，呈现出简约而优雅的 美馔。总厨谢振声掌握精准的料理诉求，自信十足， 再加上利落的手法，让料理忠实呈现食材的高品质。

LaVilla 最脍炙人口的招牌菜有 ：入口即化的美国 肉眼牛排以及法式海鲜拼盘。拼盘的丰盛食材包含蟹、 大虾、时令生蚝和鲍鱼，最适合与人共享，但 Farroug 「其实也常有两位客人各点一份海 Abdelah 经理表示 ： 鲜拼盘。 」

LaVilla 气氛热闹，让人倍感轻松，而且在寸土寸 金的香港，LaVilla 占地达 6,600 平方英尺，更是难得。 餐桌间空间宽敞，天花板采挑高设计，摆设各式乐器， 整体空间予人开放的舒适感。LaVilla 采餐厅与酒吧的复 合式经营，用餐或饮酒的客人共聚一堂，让 LaVilla 成 「我 了尖沙咀最热门的社交据点。Farroug Abdelah 说 ： 们的客人可以自由选择安静隐密的角落，或是在热闹的 表演区附近用餐，也可以跟三五好友在室外轻松啜饮小 酒，香港很少有餐厅能提供这么多元化的选择。 」 formosa influence

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新鲜微调更美味

freshness fine-tuned

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

At Temptations, the menu is as fresh as the ingredients.

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PRESENTED BY STARWORLD MACAU

AS TRENDS, tastes, and seasons change, so should menus. And at Temptations at StarWorld Macau, Executive Manager of Culinary Joe Chan constantly refines his menus to keep them right on the edge. “Most of the changes we make come from customer feedback,” he says. “We want to know exactly what people think so we can offer the very best dining experience.”

Chef Joe’s current list features some entirely new dishes and others that have been carefully fine-tuned. “We don’t start with a totally new menu every week—we keep the signature dishes our guests love and redefine them.”

Chef Joe stays in touch with customers’ needs through social media and cards at the end of the meal. “We bring the comment cards before the bill,” he says. “If you don’t tell me how we can improve, I can’t make you happy.”

Two of his most recent dishes, Alaskan crabmeat and prawn salad and linguini with clams, were inspired by guest comments. “For the salad, I layer the crabmeat with avocado for a satisfying starter. And fresh clams with pasta is a classic combination.”

The foie gras has been reimagined with caramelized apples and prunes in a port wine and cinnamon compote. “We macerate the prunes for two days to intensify the flavor,” says Joe. “It’s a great foil for the richness of the foie gras.”

Some dishes require no changes at all. Portuguese-style suckling pig and mango mille feuille are so popular that Joe has simply enhanced their presentation. “I don’t want people to get bored,” he says. “Creating new ways to present a dish is always a thrill.”

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随着潮流趋势、口味变化以及四季食材的更替，菜

Executive Manager

单也不能一成不变。澳门星际酒店知名餐厅「品味

of Culinary Joe Chan 餐饮行政总厨陈继祖 ← Alaskan Crab Meat & Prawn Salad 阿拉斯加蟹肉, 虾沙律 ←←

坊 (Temptations)」餐饮行政总厨陈继祖对菜单不 断优化创新，让烹调菜色走在餐饮界前端。 新推菜单包括新款菜色及多道精心改良的经 典料理。 「我们不会每周推出全新菜单，而是精益 求精地烹制客人喜爱的招牌菜。 」 总厨陈继祖常透过社群网站及客户意见卡， 精准掌握客人的口味需求。他强调 ： 「意见卡于结 帐前呈上，立意明确 - 愿意告诉餐厅 / 厨师怎么做， 才能让你们吃得开心满意。 」 譬如阿拉斯加蟹肉及鲜虾沙律、蚬肉扁意粉

Pan Fried Foie Gras, Port & Prune Compote

等菜色的构想，无疑要归功于客人的回响。 「令人

法国鹅肝, 呠酒烩西梅

垂涎的沙律由蟹肉及酪梨层叠而成，鲜美蚬肉搭配 意大利扁意粉则是经久不衰的组合。 」 用鹅肝搭配波特酒及肉桂糖烹调的焦糖苹果 及西梅，也让人眼前一亮。总厨陈继祖续说 ： 「西 梅通过两天的浸泡，可以突出浓郁的味道，衬托出 鹅肝的丰厚肉汁美味。 」 而葡式烧乳猪及芒果千层酥两道人气美味， 总厨仅在摆盘下了点功夫，就让料理更加赏心悦目。 他表示 ： 「我不想让客人觉得食物乏味，以创新方 法来诠释料理，总叫人感到兴奋。 」

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Created by Chef Michael Erlik, M Cuisine

PRESENTED BY AHDB

极品英国牛

great british beef

COURTESY OF EBLEX (2)

Mother Nature, long tradition, and modern methods tell the story of one of Britain’s proudest products.

IDYLLIC SCENES OF CATTLE grazing placidly on lush rolling hills dappled by the morning sun may evoke landscapes of long ago by painter John Constable, but they’re seen every day from nearly any train window in the United Kingdom. According to Jean-Pierre Garnier, Head of British Meat Exports, about 70 percent of the UK is under grass and there are still myriad smallholdings. In fact, the fragile balance of the ecosystem in scenic places like the Lake District and Dartmoor depends on the presence of ruminant animals.

Garnier’s role is to let the world know about the quality, production, and long tradition of “Great British Beef”. The nation has been at the forefront of genetic improvement since the 1600s, when it first began to raise cattle for beef rather than strictly as draft animals. Famous breeds like Hereford, Aberdeen Angus, and Shorthorn became the source of primary stock all over the world, and in the 1960s Britain began exporting its beef. Because of high domestic demand, it has never been a mass exporter, but today Britain supplies its premium beef to more than forty countries.

Garnier is currently concentrating his efforts on Hong Kong/Macau, a market already crowded with sellers from Australia, Argentina, and the U.S. It is nonetheless an important one, to which only non-breedspecific premium beef is sold. “It’s one of

English Longhorn cow and calf grazing in the open on luscious grass 英国的长角牛和小牛在青葱翠绿的草地上悠然自得地吃草

蜿蜒起伏的翠绿山岗上，牛儿在悠然自得 地吃着草，伴随晨曦洒下金波，一切有如 John Constable 久远的风景画作。其实在英 国，每天望向火车窗外几乎都是这幅景象。 英国牛肉出口部总监 Jean-Pierre Garnier 说 道，英国境内有 70% 是草地，目前仍有为 数不少的小型农场。许多如湖区和达特穆 尔等风景区的生态系统平衡维持不易，这 些反刍动物正是幕后最大功臣。 Garnier 的任务之一就是将他们「极品 英国牛」的优良品质，生产过程和悠久历 史推广至全球。自十七世纪以来，国家一

直努力改良牛只基因。著名的品种如赫里 福德牛，安格斯牛和短角牛成为遍布世界 各地的主要货源。由于英国国内的需求量 高，从来就不会作大批量的出口，但直至 现在，英国提供其优质牛肉至全球四十多 个国家。 Garnier 眼下的目标，是将英国牛肉推 广至已充斥着澳洲、阿根廷、美国肉品的 香港和澳门市场。这个市场无疑十分重要， 因为只有非特殊品种的牛肉才可在此贩售。 他笑着说 ： 「这里是世界上少数买得起英国 牛肉的市场之一！」。 formosa influence

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“ Are we the best in the world?

We most certainly want to be! 世界第一？这当然是最想达成的目标！ ” JEAN-PIERRE GARNIER, HEAD OF BRITISH MEAT EXPORTS

the few markets in the world that can afford English beef!” he laughs.

High-end beef is in such demand in HK and Macau because 69 percent of consumption is in the food services sector and only 31 percent in retail (the reverse is true in the UK). Anecdotal evidence may suggest that locals are eating less meat, yet there’s never been such a proliferation of steakhouses and gourmet burger joints.

The potential for volume growth in this market, not to mention China, remains very high.

Given today’s environmental concerns, Garnier is committed to using as much of each carcass as possible. There are 170 potential cuts, he says, and he has been working in the UK with chef Pierre Koffmann and master butcher Dick Van Leewen to introduce some lesser-known ones. Skirt steak, for example, comes from the diaphragm, traditionally used only in ground beef, and the underrated flap, or bavette steak, is juicy and flavorful once excess fat and gristle are removed. The Chinese market is also big on brisket, short ribs, tails, and bones for broths.

Garnier can summarize the Great British Beef story in one word – grass. “You need lush pastures,” he says, giving the short answer for Britain’s good luck in that regard: “Rain!” There is simply no comparison, he maintains, between the meat from animals raised on grass versus grain. British stock feeds only on grass, and in winter

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on conserved grass in airy sheds. “If you see pictures of an American or Australian feedlot compared to a British field, you’d make an immediate choice in terms of animal welfare,” says Garnier. The flavor profile of grass-fed beef is more complex, it has a longer finish, and the nutritional content is quite different: a higher ratio of omega 3, specific fatty acids, and vitamin E. Selecting the right cattle is important – the best performers in the UK are the traditional native breeds like Devon, Lincoln Red, Angus, Hereford, Shorthorn, and Longhorn. They are all early-maturing, depositing marbling fat before other breeds.

These “well-finished” livestock are slaughtered at twenty-four to thirty months, and animal welfare is critical to ensure restful and stress-free transport.

After slaughtering, the carcasses are chilled extremely slowly by a special UK process that improves tenderness and juiciness. Proper hanging, electrical stimulation of the muscles, and the dual use of dry and wet aging are carefully monitored. Temperature variations are avoided after packing and during transportation.

Such attention to detail recalls the precision involved in the creation of fine Bordeaux. When Garnier, who is originally from France, is asked if the British product has become the Premier Cru Classé of beef, he responds, with a tilt of the head, “Are we the best in the world? We most certainly want to be!”

高档牛肉在香港和澳门的需求量极 大，因为 69% 的消费来自食品服务业，只 有 31% 来自零售业，这和英国的情形恰好 相反。据说，香港和澳门人吃肉越来越少， 但牛排馆和美味汉堡餐厅林立速度却是前 所未有之快。这两地牛肉市场的成长潜力 惊人，需求很高，整个中国就更不用说了。 有鉴于现在环保意识增强，Garnier 尽 可能让每一只动物屠体都物尽其用。他说 一头牛最多可分切成 170 个部位，在和英 国 大 厨 Pierre Koffmann 和 屠 牛 大 师 Dick Van Leewen 的合作下，他致力于将非主流 肉类部位介绍给社会大众。例如侧腹横肌 牛排是横膈膜的一部分，过去只用来做绞 肉，但其实非常美味 ；还有侧腹牛排，一 旦剔除脂肪和软骨，就变得多汁且风味浓 郁，却也经常遭人忽略。在中国市场，胸肉、 牛小排、牛尾和可熬汤的牛骨亦十分热门。 Garnier 认为，极品英国牛的发展史可 用一词概括 ：青草。对于英国在自然条件 上的得天独厚，他的简短回答是 ： 「雨量充 沛！」吃牧草长大的牛，其肉质与靠谷类 饲养的牛肉质根本无法相提并论。英国牛 靠天然牧草喂养，冬季则在通风的棚屋内 用提前储备的牧草进行饲养。「如果你看 到美国或澳洲的饲育场，跟英国的放牧场 一比，哪种方式对动物有利高下立判。」经 放牧的牛肉，味道层次丰富，齿颊留香， 营养成分也完全不同，奥米加 3 含量和某 些特定脂肪酸以及维他命 E 的比例也较高。 英国最优质的牛都是当地土生土长的 品种，例如南德温牛、林肯红牛、安格斯牛、 海福特牛、短角牛、长角牛，皆为早熟品种， 比其他品种要更早开始储存大理石纹脂肪。 这些「完美熟成」的牛只在 24 至 30 月龄时被宰杀，关键是屠宰同时亦兼顾动 物福祉，确保动物能处在详和、没有压力 的运送环境里。屠宰后，屠体用一种英国 特殊手法以极缓慢的速度延迟冷却，以提 升嫩度和含汁量。随后适当地吊挂和电激 肌肉，同时采用干式和湿式熟成法，一切 步骤均需小心监控，包装后与运送途中亦 要避免温度变化。 Garnier 当被问到英国产品是否已成为 牛肉界一级特等品时，他略歪着头回答： 「世 界第一？这当然是最想达成的目标！」

COURTESY OF EBLEX (3)

PRESENTED BY AHDB

Created by Chef Michael Erlik, M Cuisine

← Traditional English Sunday Roast 传统的英式周日烤肉

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PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU

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美味双奏

passion and purity

DAVID HARTUNG

The Tasting Room’s Michelin-starred cuisine gives new dimension to contemporary French with the freshest flavors from around the world.

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“ When you’re passionate about cooking, it’s not a job, it’s a pleasure. 如果你热爱烹 饪，工作就 是享受。“ GUILLAUME GALLIOT

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PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU

GUILLAUME GALLIOT, Executive Chef of The Tasting Room

↖ Pigeon from Loire Valley cooked pink, Risotto of Parsley with Leg Confit 烧法国乳鸽伴香茜鸽腿 ↗ Peaches, White Chocolate Yogurt and Figs

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

白朱古力乳酪伴 香桃無花果

by Galliot, wanted to be a chef at age eleven. By eighteen, he was working in Michelin-starred restaurants in France.

“I’m as passionate today as I was as a teenager,” he says.

“When you’re passionate about cooking, it’s not a job, it’s a pleasure.”

His philosophy is twofold. It starts by requiring the finest seasonal produce to create contemporary French dishes that express the purity of those ingredients. A case in point is his Crab Salad with Tomato Water Jelly, Avocado Mousse, and Bloody Mary Sorbet, finished with caviar and gold leaf. The crab is pure and pronounced, the other elements supporting, but retaining their inherent flavors.

Rich in intensity, it is at the same time light, perfect for summer.

Galliot’s second philosophical tenet stems from his career path—France, the Caribbean, Morocco, New York, Singapore, Beijing, and now Macau. “Part of my identity as a chef comes from my travels, which have influenced my cooking. French techniques, yes, but I use ingredients I love, French or not.”

One favorite is turbot, highlighted on the new menu in the Slow-Cooked Turbot with Zucchini Mash, Corn, Culatello Ham, and Comté Cheese Emulsion. Each bite of this complex and original dish manifests the essence of summer.

澳 门 新 濠 天 地 御 膳 房 行 政 总 厨

Guillaume Galliot 11 岁 就 梦 想 当 大 厨， 他说： 并在 18 岁时工作于法国星级餐厅， 「我还如同当年一样充满热情。如果你 热爱烹饪，工作就是享受。 」

Galliot 有双重美食哲学，首先是坚 持使用最佳时令蔬果，呈现食材纯粹风 味，彰显当代法式料理精神。例如「蟹 肉沙律配番茄果冻及牛油果慕丝伴番茄 雪芭」 ，摆盘时缀以鱼子酱和金箔，蟹 肉味道鲜明，其他食材各自保持原味， 整体口感层次丰富，可说是完美的夏日 料理。 另 一 个 美 食 哲 学 来 自 Galliot 丰 富 的职涯行旅，他的足迹遍佈法国、加勒 比海、摩洛哥、纽约、新加坡、北京， 如今包括澳门 ： 「我对总厨身份的认同， 部分来自游走丰富的工作经验，这也对 我的厨艺影响深远。我採用法式烹调技 巧，但并不会拘泥于法式食材。 」 新 推 菜 单 上 的「 慢 煮 多 宝 鱼 配 意 式火腿及小青瓜蓉伴芝士泡沫」 ，便是

Galliot 最锺情的菜色之一，这个层次丰 富的原创料理，能让宾客每一口都嚐到 舒适宜人的夏日风情。 formosa influence

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精工鲜食

freshness with finesse Jade Dragon’s contemporary Cantonese cuisine, renowned for intensity of flavor, starts with natural products of the highest possible quality.

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俗语说 ： 「视觉是品尝美食的第一感官」 ， 这用在誉珑轩恰到好处，其气派非凡的 内部装潢，只有行政总厨谭国锋的美味 料理才能一抢风头，精心烹製的料理可 谓视觉与味觉的双重飨宴。澳门新濠天 地誉珑轩每道菜色都展现总厨谭国锋的 美食哲学，这也是誉珑轩能成为米其林 星级餐厅的秘密武器，他使用品质上乘 的食材烹制粤式料理，尤其着重食材风 味，选材包括黑毛猪、神户牛、放养鸡、 有机蔬菜、野生海鲜等。

↖ Double-boiled Sea Conch with Matsutake Mushroom 鲜松茸炖螺头

总厨谭国锋表示 ： 「现在的顾客对 食材都十分谨慎，所以食材从市场到餐

↗

桌、从农场到存放的过程中都需要小心

Stir-fried Sliced South

翼翼，竭力确保食材保有最高品质。 」

African Abalone with Catsthelasma ​ 老人头菌油泡南非鲜鲍

谭国锋目前设计的新菜色使用了 九种中国云南的野生珍菌，包含牛乾菌、 鸡油菌、黑松露、高贵的鲜松茸和珍稀 的老人头菌等，演绎出夏日菜单上一道 道别出心裁的新料理，如「老人头菌油 泡南非鲜鲍」 、 「鸡枞菌炒西班牙梅头 肉」等，完整展现野生珍菌的风味与口 感，无论搭配葡萄佳酿或精选茗茶都是 一绝。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

“WE EAT FIRST WITH OUR EYES” is a saying that comes true the moment Jade Dragon’s inviting interior comes into view.

The restaurant’s striking design is surpassed only by the cuisine of Tam Kwok Fung, Director of Culinary Operations, who has designed each innovative dish to impress—in both looks and taste. Every offering expresses the chef’s philosophy that stands behind Jade Dragon’s Michelin-starred success—using only the very best natural products to create contemporary Cantonese food with an emphasis on intensity of flavor: ibérico pork, wagyu from Kobe, free-range chicken, organic vegetables, wild-caught seafood.

“Diners today are concerned about what they’re putting into their bodies,” says Tam. “So from market to plate, cutting to storage, we take care that everything is highest quality.”

The chef is currently working with nine seasonal wild mushrooms from Yunnan, China. They include porcini, chanterelle, and black truffle, as well as the prized matsutake and rare Catathelasma. He features them in a number of brilliant new dishes on the summer menu, such as Stir-Fried Sliced South African Abalone with Catathelasma and Pan-Fried Ibérico Pork with Termite Mushroom. Each one stresses the integrity of the mushrooms’ tastes and textures and can be expertly paired with either fine wines or selected teas.

“ From market to plate, we take care that everything is highest quality. 食材从市场到 餐桌、我们竭 力确保食材保 有最高品质。“ TAM KWOK FUNG 谭国锋

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渔港天堂

One Fish, Two Fish The fishermen of Nanfang Ao bring their daily catches to eager buyers for whom bigger is better.

BY MAMIE CHEN

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The goddess Matsu, 200 kg of pure gold and one-of-a-kind in Taiwan, casts her

benevolent gaze over the fishing port of Nanfang Ao from her serene throne on the third level of the Nantien Temple. Goddess of the sea and protector of all seafarers, she is particularly revered in this fishing town, one of the three largest in Taiwan and home to about 800 fishing vessels and the thousands of fishermen who venture out from here.

This day Matsu appears to have answered their prayers. Since well before dawn, boats have been returning without incident to unload their catches of bluefin and yellowfin tuna. Cranes hoist the enormous fish by the tails, one by one, from the boats to the dock, where workers scramble to empty the body cavities of ice. Then they are weighed, measured, and tagged: #03109, 293 kg. With sickening thunks the workmen sink wicked-looking hooks into the carcasses and drag them into place on the auction floor – a large one may take four men.

At 6 a.m. the live auction is about to start and there are three long rows of tuna, many over 150 kg, neatly lined up on the damp-smelling concrete floor. Scores of buyers, who have already made their physical inspections and mental notes, gather around the first fish and its auctioneer, and without fanfare the day’s action begins.

The drone of the auctioneer seems endless, a rhythmic litany of near-incomprehensible words and numbers, punctuated by the occasional grunt or silent nod from a bidder. Within a minute, the first tuna is sold. The crowd takes a few steps down the row to the next fish and the monotonous chant begins again.

With the auction in progress around them, new owners take immediate possession of their fish. They insert long hollow metal tubes into the flesh to extract samples, which they rub delicately between thumb and forefinger to judge color and texture. Once they’ve received nods of approval, workers swarm around the fish to begin preparing them for transport. Gills are removed, the dorsal fins and tails are cut off, and ice is repacked into the bellies.

When asked which fish he bought, one buyer points to two hulking bluefin, each over 200 kg. Did he bid on any of the smaller tuna?

He shakes his head and merely says, “No fat.” The bigger the tuna, the higher the fat content and the better the otoro, that supreme portion of the belly that melts in the mouth. The price of Nanfang Ao’s first bluefin of the season was NT6,600 per kilogram, a price many are happy to pay to get what they want. He lifts the front of his shirt, grabs a generous roll of his own belly with two hands, and for emphasis gives it a good shake: “Fat. Good.”

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MARKET

全台湾

唯一一尊 200 公斤纯金打造

的妈祖像位于南天宫三楼，她从静谧的宝座 上以慈爱的眼神俯视着南方澳渔港。身为海 上女神与航海人的守护者，妈祖在这座渔村 格外受到敬重。南方澳是台湾三大渔港之一， 约有八百艘渔船，几千位渔夫从这里出海。 这天，妈祖显然听到了众人的心愿。尚 未破晓，船只已陆续平安归来，卸​​下 捕获的 黑鲔鱼和蓝鳍金枪鱼。一条接着一条，吊车 将甲板上成堆的鱼从尾巴高高吊起，甲板上 的工人合力清空鱼身里的碎冰，鱼接着经过 秤重、测量、标示 ：03109 号，293 公斤。伴 随着令人作呕的腥味，渔工们将形状怪异的 钩子降到鱼身里，将鱼拖到拍卖地上。一条 大鱼可能需四个人才拖得动呢！ 清晨六点，现场叫卖即将开始。面前是 三长排的鲔鱼，许多重逾 150 公斤，全都整 整齐齐地排在潮湿又充满海味的水泥地上。 成群的买家仔细地检视这些鱼，并在心里默 默做着盘算。他们围在第一条鱼和拍卖官周 边，不必等什么开幕仪式，竞标于焉展开。 拍卖官开始发出低吼，口中像是吟诵着 一连串有节奏但几乎让人无法理解的字词和 数字，似乎不会停歇的叫卖偶尔被底下竞标 的咕哝声或无声的点头打断。不到一分钟， 第一条鲔鱼就卖出了。然后众人移步至同一 排的第二条鱼，同样单调的叫卖声再度响起。 叫卖还在进行着，得标者马上就可拿到 自己的鱼。他们将长条空心金属管伸进新鲜 鱼肉里抽取样本，再用拇指跟食指仔细搓揉， 检视色泽和纹理。待他们肯定地点了头，工 人们便聚集到鱼旁边准备搬运。他们先去除 鱼鳃，切下背鳍和尾巴，再把冰块重新装进 腹腔里。 我们问其中一位买主买了哪些鱼，他指 了指两条肥硕的黑鲔鱼，每条都超过 200 公 斤。我们问他有没有竞标较小的鲔鱼？他摇 摇头，只说了句 ： 「小的鲔鱼没有脂肪。 」鲔 鱼体型越大，内含脂肪就越多，入口即化的 顶级大腹部位就更鲜美。南方澳当季第一条 黑鲔鱼的价格是每公斤六千元新台币，许多 人可是满心欣喜毫不犹豫地掏钱购买。只见 这位仁兄撂起自己的上衣，毫不客气地用两 手抓起自己肚子的肥肉，像要强调似地甩了 甩，一边说 ： 「脂肪。赞！」

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Potential bidders scan the rows of tuna, relying solely on external factors like size, weight, and appearance to evaluate the quality of the fish. 卖家拣选金枪鱼时会仅根据其外在条件，如大小，重量和外形去评价鱼的质量。

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A 293 kg tuna is auctioned off within sixty short seconds, and workers immediately begin preparing it for shipment. 一条293公斤金枪鱼在短短60秒被拍卖掉，工人立即开始准备把它运送。

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Throughout the early morning, Nanfang Ao is filled with non-stop hustle and bustle. Even as bidders are huddled together and engaged in auction, boats continue to arrive at the fishing port, and workers hasten to unload the catch and haul them into place on the auction floor. 整个清晨，南方澳渔港充满着马不停蹄的喧嚣。即使 卖家挤在一起和进行拍卖时，船只也会不断抵达渔 港，工作人员快速地卸下渔获物并移到拍卖场。

宜兰好福地

Yilan’s Eden In the hills of Taiwan’s Yilan County, Bulau Bulau Aboriginal Village has brought back a way of life based on farming, foraging, and plenty of fresh millet wine.

BY MARK HAMMONS

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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AS THE DAY’S VISITORS round the final corner of a steep dirt trail, they suddenly come upon a wooden bench laden with skulls. These are the markers that ancient Atayal warriors, famed and feared as headhunters, would place at the entrance to their aboriginal grounds as a warning to advancing enemies.

The skulls turn out to be those of wild boar. It’s been more than a century since warrior candidates were required to bring back the head of an enemy in order to receive a coming-of-age facial tattoo known as a ptasan .

But the skulls do typify Bulau Bulau’s approach to keeping ancient tribal customs alive, with appropriate concessions to modern sensibilities. Bulau Bulau was founded in 2004 by Chief Wilang, who left a successful career as a landscape architect in Taipei to return to his wife’s aboriginal homeland as head of a new Atayal tribe. Made up of seven families with a total of forty-three members, it is the realization of Wilang’s ideal of a life close to nature in a sustainable, self-sufficient community.

访客们爬山涉水，沿着陡峭的泥土小径前行， 转个弯只见原木长椅上，有头骨一字排开，这 正是古时以猎人头令人为之丧胆的泰雅族勇 士们的正字标记，放在部落入口处有表达敌 人勿进的警示之意。 但如今在此放的是野猪的头骨，以猎人 头获得所谓「ptasan」黥面资格的成年礼仪式 早在百年前绝迹，现以动物头骨取代，显现 的是不老部落顺应现代潮流，仍试图保留古 老部落传统的用心。 不老部落 2004 年由创办人 Wilang 一手 建立，他放弃台北经营多年有成的景观建筑事 业，回到妻子的原住民家乡，担任全新的泰雅 部落族长角色。部落由 7 个家庭组成，全员

43 人，体现的正是 Wilang 理想中贴近大自然， 永续且自给自足的群落生活。

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TRAVEL

While “idling around” may be the literal meaning of Bulau Bulau in the Atayal language, tribal members are expected to earn their keep. The community has five work divisions that are vital to its sustenance: construction, farming, hunting, crafts, and hospitality.

With more than 200 rainy days a year in Bulau Bulau (the nearest town is referred to as “drip drop”), it was crucial to provide a dry spot for meals and gatherings. The construction division’s first job was a traditional roof over the common area using vines, bamboo, and acacia wood, but not a single nail.

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不老 (Bulau Bulau) 在泰雅语中有「闲晃」的意思，但 族中成员可是各司其职，自食其力，组成营造、农事、狩猎、 工艺及观光接待等工作小组，为支撑部落经营的五大支柱。 不老部落降雨日全年均超过 200 天 ( 离此最近的城镇还 有雨声「滴答」的昵称 )，如何打造一个干肉类及食物储存处 成了首要任务。营造组因而选定了部落某处，利用藤蔓、竹 子及刺槐等素材，铺上传统式屋顶，打造出合适的储物室， 整个过程一根钉子都没有用到。

A traditional Atayal way of making peace with enemies is to drink wine from the same cup. 传统泰雅习俗－与敌人共 饮，一杯好酒泯恩仇。

With the right beat, everyone can dance. 拍子打好，众人​ 皆可共舞同欢。

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Baked Ayu fish with kumquat juice, accompanied by millet rice black pork dumplings wrapped with honey moon peach leaf 烤香鱼及金桔汁，搭配月桃 叶裹覆的小米酒黑猪肉粽子

Fresh bamboo shoots with flying-fish roe 新鲜竹笋搭配飞鱼子

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TRAVEL

The typhoon that soon blew the roof from the building and into the adjacent field provided an elementary lesson for the young tribe that still resonates: “You can’t change nature, you can only change yourself,” says Kwali Wilang, son of Chief Wilang. The roof that was rebuilt the following year was lower and closer to the base of a nearby hill and had a rising angle that would funnel rather than fight the wind.

To remain financially self-sufficient, the plan was to grow gourmet mushrooms and other produce to sell in the cities. But when harvest time came, the farming division discovered that squirrels, lizards, and termites had chewed up their entire crop.

The village nimbly changed its tack the second year – instead of sending vegetables down to market, they began bringing visitors up to the village. Guests now enjoy lunch and entertainment while getting a firsthand taste of tribal life on tours that are fully booked several months in advance.

直至后来台风来袭，不胜强风的屋顶整 片飞到邻近农田，让这个年轻部落扎扎实实 学到一课 ： 「大自然无法改变，只能从自身做 起」 ，Wilang 的 儿 子 Kwali 强 调， 这 句 话 他 们至今谨记在心。部落翌年沿邻近丘陵山脚 重建屋顶，同时建造屋顶升角，以疏透强风， 避免与之直面对抗。 为维持经济无虞，部落原计画种植各式 味美菇类及农产品销往城市，不料收成期间， 农事组发现作物遭松鼠、蜥蜴及白蚁横扫一 空。但此一危机也让部落灵机一动，改变了 作战计画－与其被动的把菜卖到市场，不如 让客人主动上门。不老部落改以预约接客经 营，让游客一边享受午餐及余兴节目，一边 体验第一手的部落生活。目前行程一位难求， 没早几个月预定铁定向隅。

Antique green bottles discovered in the forest are for serving water and millet wine, but were once used decades ago by another Atayal village for growing mushrooms from spores. 森林中的旧时绿罐可以盛水及小米酒，原为另一泰雅部落数十年前用来培养菇类孢子之用。

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TRAVEL

Bulau Bulau is set on eleven hectares of land, six of which are used for farming. It grows 80 percent of its food locally without pesticides or fertilizer. Starting at four in the morning, wild ferns for the day’s salad are picked when most tender. Trip-wire traps are set along dirt walking trails to catch bamboo partridges. Ginger is abundant and appears in nearly every dish on the menu. A sevencourse lunch is served each day, with four types of rice wine. Food is cooked by boiling, roasting, marinating, or smoking, with no frying or oil allowed.

N ow w h e n a h a r ve st d o e s n’t g o according to plan, surprises are met with equanimity. The 200 monkeys of Bulau Bulau like to lift ripe pumpkins over their heads and smash them on the ground to get at the sweet flesh, eating some 30 percent of the village’s crop. Each year wild boar gobble 250 kilos of bamboo shoots from the community garden. At first there was discussion about how to protect them, but a tribal elder wisely advised: “Don’t worry, in the end we’ll just eat the boar.”

不老部落占地 11 公顷，其中 6 公顷为农 用，超过八成作物使用非农药或肥料种植。 为 了不错过野蕨最柔嫩新鲜的时段，族人们每天 清晨四点便出动采摘。泥土径上的捕兽绊网也 就位，准备捕捉用来制作竹筒鸡料理的野鸡。 部落栽种大量的姜，也理所当然成为每一道菜 的最佳配角。共有 7 道菜的午间套餐非常丰盛， 另附 4 种可供品尝的小米酒。食物主要以川烫、 烘烤、卤汁调味或烟熏处理，百分百原味。 收成时节也可能出现不尽人意的意外结 果，但部落对此处之泰然、兵来将挡。不老 部落有近 200 只野猴当邻居，最爱高举熟成 南瓜往地上砸，食用甜美的果肉，将近三成 Two hectares of land were originally devoted to growing millet for millet wine. ​ But the drink has proven so popular that Bulau Bulau now devotes four hectares out of a total of six to growing and harvesting the crop from January to July. 原订6公顷土地中仅2公顷作为栽种小米酿酒之用，但小米酒大受欢迎， 不老部落决定加码至4公顷，每年1月至7月栽种并收成小米。

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农收都进了它们的肚子。野猪每年也如蝗虫 过境，扫荡部落农园内竹笋高达 250 公斤。 一开始众人十分忧心，但部落长老的一句话 让众人安心不少 ： 「别担心，山猪最终也是我 们祭五脏庙所用的。 」

The Hanxi Suspension Bridge, one of the longest in Taiwan, leads visitors to and from Bulau Bulau. 台湾最长吊桥之一，寒溪吊桥为 出入不老部落的必经途径。

COCKTAILS

旧情怀 新惊喜

nostalgia and surprise Authentic Taiwanese ingredients are combined with vibrant cultural heritage in the imaginative cocktails at Check-in Taipei.

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

ANPING TOFU 安平豆腐花

“There’s a real connection between Hong Kong and Taipei,” says Shin Chiu, Manager & Chief Drinks Officer at Check-in Taipei, the SoHo district restaurant known for its contemporary Taiwanese cuisine. “The two cities are so close and share so many similarities, but there’s still a lot for HK to discover about Taiwan. I want our customers to explore Taiwan’s culture and history through our drinks as well as our food.”

Chiu, born and raised in Taipei, is one of the city’s pioneers in creative mixology and is renowned for seamlessly blending Taiwanese tea liquor with unexpected ingredients. The opportunity to present a new Taiwanese-inspired dining experience to Hong Kong drew him here in 2014. “There’s so much potential for developing Taiwanese cuisine in HK. The local restaurant scene had a real gap, but that only gives me all the more freedom to experiment with our cultural influences.”

Chiu introduces four of Check-in Taipei’s most popular creations that combine his distinctive elements of nostalgia and surprise:

Meant to be eaten as well as drunk, this cocktail is named for its key ingredient, the famous tofu of the historic Anping district in Tainan City. It’s bathed in soybean milk infused with high mountain tea liquor and topped with a mixture of red bean and powdered peanuts that recalls the sweetness of childhood desserts. “I once tasted tofu in Anping and remember being moved by a sense of nostalgia. I wanted to recreate the feeling by presenting the drink as a traditional tofu pudding that would be familiar to our customers in Hong Kong, but also different from anything they’ve tasted.”

「香港和台北有很深的关联。 」瞿维新说。瞿维新是香港苏豪区 Check-in Taipei 餐厅的

这道鸡尾酒以其主要食材是以台南市老城

经理兼茶酒创意师，这家餐厅以当代的台湾料理闻名。「这两座城市距离这么近，彼

镇安平区著名的豆腐花命名，是一道既可

此间有许多共同点，但台湾还是有很多待香港发掘的地方。我想让顾客透过我们的餐

吃又可喝的作品。豆腐花浸泡在注有高山

饮探索台湾的文化和历史。 」

茶酒的豆浆中，上头缀以红豆和花生粉，

瞿维新是土生土长的台北人，也是走在台北创意调酒尖端的先锋之一，因擅长调

令人联想起孩童时期甜滋滋的点心。「我有

和台湾茶酒和令人意想不到的食材而名扬海内外。 2014 年，他抓住了将台湾饮食体验

一次尝到安平的豆腐花，心中马上涌起一

介绍给香港的机会，踏上这块土地。「把台式料理推广至香港还有很大的潜力。当地

股童年的回忆。所以我想用传统的豆腐花

餐饮业完全没有涉猎这一块，反而给了我更多自由来检验我们的文化影响力。 」

做饮品，重现那样的感受，让香港顾客有

他向我们介绍了四道 Check-in Taipei 最受欢迎的创意饮料，结合了他的独门秘方：

熟悉感，但又和他们以往吃过的有所区别。 」

怀旧与惊喜。

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SOFT OPENING 序幕曲

DRUNKEN BUBBLE TEA 藏。珍奶

This all-day cocktail is a symphony of international flavors that honor both Western and Japanese influences in Taiwan’s history. Chiu pairs lei cha, the Taiwanese Hakka green tea, with Japanese matcha tea, then harmonizes their flavors with smooth, mellow soybean milk. Western notes from aged spiced rum and his own Earl-Grey-tea-infused vodka add accents of citrus, vanilla, and cinnamon. Chiu garnishes the pale green cocktail with a pop of pink petals. The effect is like the soft opening notes of a musical reverie.

Hong Kong is no stranger to bubble tea, but this interpretation of the modern classic comes with a brand new angle. The cocktail is based on vodka that Chiu infuses with Earl Grey tea.

He uses a slow cold-brew process designed to fully release the bergamot-laced essence of the Earl Grey. The vodka is then paired with Baileys Irish Cream to give a rich and silky texture that complements the sweet tapioca pearls in the drink. A stick of cinnamon is lit and served on the rim of the glass to lend a note of vintage cocktail lounge charm.

这道全天可饮的鸡尾酒如同一首国际交响曲，向备受西方和日

香港人对珍珠奶茶并不陌生，但瞿维新让这道现代经典有了全

本文化影响的台湾历史致敬。瞿维新将台湾客家文化的绿茶 –

新视角的演绎。这道鸡尾酒以伏特加为基底， 融入了皇家伯爵茶。

擂茶与日本的抹茶搭配，再将两着独特的味道以柔滑醇香的豆

他采用一种缓慢冷泡的手法，专门用以完整释放出皇家伯爵茶

浆调和。西方的影响则以辛辣的兰姆酒为代表，加上他自创融

最精华的佛手柑香气，随后伏特加再与爱尔兰贝里斯奶酒搭配，

入皇家伯爵茶的伏特加，更增进了鸡尾酒中幽微的柑橘、香草、

产生浓醇丝滑的口感，正与饮料里甜甜的珍珠相得益彰。再点

肉桂香。再用几片粉红花瓣装饰这道淡绿色的鸡尾酒，整体营

燃一根肉桂棒，放在玻璃杯缘，更增添了一股复古鸡尾酒吧的

造的效果就像是幻想曲轻柔的前奏。

迷人魅力。

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

COCKTAILS

M O C H I YA K I 烧麻糬

Lei cha, a humble green tea infused with powdered rice, sesame seeds, red beans, and coarse grains, is featured. “The tea comes from the Taiwanese Hakka culture, where it’s an ordinary staple drink, but there’s more than meets the eye.” Chiu pairs it with light and smoky rum carrying accents of spice.

Cream and oolong tea hold the flavors together and things are rounded off with a dash of fragrant hazelnut liqueur. The drink is savored with servings of lightly toasted mochi coated with honey and powdered peanuts. 这道鸡尾酒的主角是擂茶，一种由大米、 芝麻籽、红豆和粗谷粒磨成粉状混合 「这种茶源于台湾 而成的质朴绿茶， 的客家文化，是客家人常喝的传 统饮品，但我总觉得擂茶不应该 只 是 如 此。 」于是瞿维新将芳 香的擂茶与一款具淡烟熏味的 兰姆酒搭配，带出辛辣的口 感，再用奶油与乌龙茶混调， 封住所有风味，最后以香甜 的榛果利口酒俐落圆满地作 结。摆在鸡尾酒旁的，是要 一同品尝、略略烤焦的麻糬， 上头淋有蜂蜜和花生粉 。

餐酒最佳桥梁

bridging the gap A native-born sommelier returns from training abroad to find fulfillment in the maturing wine culture of Taiwan.

TONY WANG, like many sommeliers from emerging wine markets, wasn’t raised in a wine-drinking family. He can’t claim to have been born with oenology or viticulture in his blood, so instead he credits his success to a stroke of good fortune followed by a lifetime of hard work. “When I was twenty, I worked part-time in a local Western restaurant,” says Wang. “My boss was very knowledgeable about wine and he introduced me to it.

Before that, I knew nothing about the aroma of wines or how to properly taste them or pair them with food. I loved it!”

With eyes opened to a new world, Wang became an insatiable reader of anything related to wine. He attended a wine school and became a certified sommelier.

He traveled to Europe to tour wineries and got six months’ advanced training as an intern at a restaurant in Bilbao, Spain.

Though unpaid, that stint led to a position back home in Taiwan as head sommelier at DN innovación, a Spanish molecular cuisine restaurant founded by elBulli alumnus Daniel Negreira. And that job led to his current position at STAY Taipei, launched by Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alléno.

Wang has participated twice in the Taiwan’s Best Sommelier competition, placing third in 2012, but he feels most fulfilled working directly with customers in a restaurant setting. “My job is to build a bridge between the customers and the chef,” says Wang. “I enjoy observing people and figuring out what they like. I need to understand what the chef wants to present to the customers, so I’ve tasted all the dishes and I can recommend what will bring out the best for diners in both the food and the wine.”

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STAY Taipei has hosted a wine event with Château Cheval Blanc’s owner and proudly features ex-château vintages in their wine cellar. 「STAY Taipei」与法国「白马酒堡(Château Cheval Blanc)」庄主共同举办品酒宴，宣布 酒堡直送佳酿正式纳入酒窖酒藏行列。

But the prevailing corkage culture in Taiwan is a factor that Wang frequently finds limiting – nearly one-third of his customers bring their own wine to the restaurant. “Guests will often bring in wines to a party one by one,” says Wang, “and I’m challenged to line up twelve bottles, Champagnes to whites, light reds to heavy reds, and on through to dessert wines. I need to decant some of them and figure out the best timing with the meal. But that’s not the difficult part, the difficult part comes later.” He smiles, “Do you know how many glasses we need to wash and polish – at midnight?”

Wang remains patient as the tide slowly begins to turn. “I appreciate it when people call ahead and let me arrange it all for them.

I can order any wine that isn’t already in my cellar, and I can plan special pairings with the chef,” he says. “Just give me the budget and I can do it.”

和其他出身葡萄酒市场的侍酒师一 样，王东崧不是从品酒世家长大，自 小亦未受过葡萄栽培或酿酒知识薰 陶，能在酒界创出一片天，他归功于 一直的努力及机缘好运。他说 ： 「二十 岁那年我在台湾的西餐厅打工，当时 老板对各种酒如数家珍，引领我进入 这个世界。那之前我对酒的香气、品 酒方法或和餐酒搭配一无所知，但一 经接触就深深爱上。」 王东崧在全新领域求知若渴，任 何与酒相关的专业书籍都不放过，后 来他进入葡萄酒学校，成为认证的合 格侍酒师，接着远赴欧洲游历各大酒 厂，大半年时间在西班牙毕尔包一间 餐厅实习，不支薪接受进阶训练。 此 一经历让他返台后获「鼎恩创意料理 (DN innovación)」延揽为首席侍酒师， 于西班牙分子料理大师 elBulli 餐厅旗 下高徒 Daniel Negreira 开设的餐馆中 服务，后又转至米其林三星名厨 Yannick Alléno 的「STAY Taipei」 法 式 餐 厅一展长才。 王东崧曾参与过两次台湾最佳侍 酒师竞赛，并于 2012 年拿下第三名 的殊荣，但对他而言，最有成就感的 仍属在餐厅和顾客接触。他说道 ： 「我 就像顾客和厨师之间的桥梁，我喜欢 观察人，找出他们的喜好 ；同时对于 主厨想呈现给客人的菜色也要了若指 掌，餐厅的每道菜我都品尝过，这样 才能给饕客建议，让他们一尝美食及 美酒最棒的滋味。」 但台湾盛行的开瓶文化却不时让 他觉得力有未逮，近乎三分之一的客 人都会自己带酒到餐厅。他表示： 「客 人一个个现身派对，带的酒也都不同， 12 瓶 酒 一 字 排 开 真 的 是 一 大 挑 战， 从香槟到白酒、浓度低到高的红酒等， 直到甜点配酒。有些要先醒酒，找到 搭配餐点上酒的最佳时机。」接下来 笑着说 ： 「这还算好的，辛苦可在后 头。想像一下有多少酒杯要清洗加擦 亮。」 对此趋势，王东崧也以平常心看 待。他说 ： 「客人主动通知要我全权安 排时，我心里只有感谢二字。我可以 选用任何酒，不在自家酒窖的也没关 系，还能和主厨商量特别的餐酒搭配。 只要预算够，绝对包君满意。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

WINE MASTER

Tony Wang 王东崧

M A LT M A S T E R

酿酒魔术师

The Sorcerer Chang An Asian distillery makes a phenomenal ascent into the stratosphere of fine whiskies.

WHAT WOULD SOON BE RECOGNIZED as a 在 2005 年，台湾建立了全国第一座酿酒 remarkable milestone in the annals of whisky 厂，不久后便成为威士忌史上重要的里程 took place when Taiwan built its first distill碑。尽管酒厂座落于宜兰县东北部的员山 ery in 2005. By 2011 its visitors center was 乡，交通不甚便利，到了 2011 年，酿酒厂 giving tours to a million whisky enthusiasts a 的游客中心每年须为高达一百万名威士忌 year, despite an out-of-the-way location near 爱好者提供导览服务，其热门程度可见一 the town of Yuanshan in northeastern Yilan 斑。即使噶玛兰酒厂的位置条件与苏格兰 County. And as different as the locale of 的斯佩塞 (Speyside) 区大相径庭，它的亚 Kavalan Distillery might be from Scotland’s 洲单一麦芽威士忌在短时间内便与一些享 Speyside region, it wasn’t long before its 誉全球的苏格兰威士忌平起平坐。 Asian single malts were being very favorably 「噶玛兰（Kavalan）」的原意是「平原 compared to some of the world’s 的人类」，用以称呼曾居住在该 most fabled Scotch whiskies. 地区，以捕鱼为生的原住民部 BY Kavalan, which means “people 落。该酒厂酿造的酒，甫被冠 GERRIE LIM of the flatland,” was named for 上噶玛兰的名字，就获得许多 the indigenous fishing tribe that 知名单一麦芽威士忌梦寐以求 PHOTOGRAPHY BY once inhabited the area. The new 的 殊 荣， 揽 获 各 大 奖 项。2010 DAVID HARTUNG brand had hardly been dubbed 年，噶玛兰经典单一麦芽威士 before it began to accomplish 忌在由英国泰晤士报筹办的勃 what many more established single malts can 恩斯夜「盲目品酒会」（blind tasting）中， only dream of – winning medals right and 与四种英国威士忌同台较劲，最后夺得冠 left. In 2010, Kavalan Classic Single Malt 军。在 2011-2013 年的国际美酒品评大赛 was matched against four British whiskies 中，噶玛兰酒厂连续三年获颁亚太地区最 at a Burns Night Blind Tasting organized 佳 蒸 馏 厂「 奖 杯（Trophy）」 大 奖。 截 至 by the Times of London and was declared 2014 年，噶玛兰酿酒厂已经获得超过一百 the winner. In 2011, 2012, and 2013, Kav面金牌。今年世界威士忌竞赛又授予更高 alan Distillery was awarded the Asia Pacific 的荣誉 ：噶玛兰酒厂的首席调酒师张郁岚 Spirit Producer of the Year Trophy by the (Ian Chang) 获得 WWA 年度最佳首席酿酒 International Wine and Spirit Competi师，他的经典独奏 Vinho 葡萄酒桶威士忌 tion. By 2014, the distillery had garnered 原酒，也被誉为全球最佳单一麦芽威士忌。 more than one hundred gold medals. And 他们是怎么做到的？噶玛兰酒厂的首 this year, World Whiskies Awards bestowed 席酿酒师暨全球品牌大使张郁岚，温和而谦

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The long, narrow necks of Kavalan’s ​ lantern-shaped copper pot stills give its whisky a distinctively pure and smooth, fruity flavor profile. 「葛玛兰(Kavalan)」铜质壶形蒸馏器有着长 形、狭窄的壶口，就像灯笼一般。酿制出 的威士忌纯净顺口，带有独特的果香。

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further honors: Kavalan’s Ian Chang was named Master Distiller of the Year and its Solist Vinho Barrique Single Cask Strength was named World’s Best Single Malt Whisky at the World Whiskies Awards.

How did they do it? Kavalan’s soft-spoken Master Blender and Global Brand Ambassador, Ian Y. L. Chang, humbly explains that he crafts his whiskies “by instinct” and gives credit to the region’s subtropical climate, which, he says, enhances the whiskies’ maturation in wooden casks, enabling them to reach their initial potential in a mere two years. “That’s our minimum time” he says.

“The Scots have a colder climate, so their whisky takes longer to mature. And Yilan is the only county in Taiwan where the water is pure and abundant – that’s why we chose to

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have our distillery here. Our founder, Mr. T. T. Lee, is from Yilan, and so am I. I’m grateful to have a job so close to home and just forty-five minutes from Taipei.”

Chang’s career arc is unusual. He was hired at Kavalan, his first position with a whisky distillery, not long after returning from a nine-year stay in the UK, where he’d moved at age fourteen. He graduated from the University of Reading with a degree in food science, with no inkling that he’d ever be making history in his homeland. “I learned that King Car Food Industrial, the company behind Kavalan, was looking for a blender, so I sent my CV,” he recalls. “They asked me to come for an interview, I passed all the tests conducted by Dr. Jim Swan, our distillery consultant from Edinburgh, and I

got the job. We now have fifteen production personnel and three in R&D – me and my two assistants. We have 60,000 casks in the warehouse, we have our own in-house cooperage with eight coopers, and we do our own rejuvenation of casks.”

In just eight years Chang’s team has introduced ten whiskies, four of them especially revered by connoisseurs – Kavalan Classic Single Malt and Concertmaster Single Malt, both with 40 percent alcohol content, and two varieties from the Solist Series, with 57–59 percent alcohol: exBourbon Single Cask Strength, matured in used bourbon casks, and Sherry Single Cask Strength, matured in sherry casks. The others in the series are Solist Fino, which is aged in fino sherry casks and was rated New

World Whisky of the Year in 2012 by Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible, and the super-premium Solist Vinho Barrique, aged in used, recharred American wine casks to produce its inimitably complex fruitiness.

Classic Single Malt, Kavalan’s inaugural release of 2008, is widely praised for distinctive citrus and licorice notes, but Chang admires its creamy smoothness brightened with mango and green apple. “In the Concertmaster, which has a port finish, I taste berries and blackcurrant and sweetness from the combination of ruby and tawny port casks along with some older vintage wine casks.

The Classic Single Malt is done in American oak barrels of several types – bourbon, refill, sherry, and other wines. American oak gives more delicacy, so we use it 95 percent

of the time because of the heat in Taiwan.

If we use too much European oak, the tannins – the astringency and bitterness – will be much higher, but European oak is better in Scotland.”

The Single Malt‘s unique bottle was inspired by the famous Taipei 101 tower and Concertmaster’s bottle was his own design.

“The green glass is because of the ruby port, which tints the whisky a slight red. If we used a clear bottle, any exposure to sunlight would destroy the color.”

Kavalan now produces 1.4 million liters of whisky a year. Its most important export market, France, consumes 32,000 bottles.

And what of the Scots, are they up-in-arms over an upstart invading their ancient turf?

“I’ve been to Scotland many times,” says

Chang, “and as my mentor Jim Swan once told me, the whisky industry worldwide is like a gentlemen’s club. When we go to Scotland for promotions and tastings, everyone is very friendly and very generous. If you ever have problems, I’ve found that all of the Scottish distilleries will share their experience. Blenders and technical people are not competitive. I think the only time there is real competition is when it comes to sales.”

Chang, who is married and has two children, mentions that his wife doesn’t drink alcohol at all. “I am very lucky that she’s so supportive,” he says. “At home, I find a little bit of our Classic before going to bed is relaxing. Personally, I like a whisky with harmony and perfect balance.” And that, many would say, is precisely what he has achieved. formosa influence

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虚地说他是凭「直觉」调制威士忌的，并同 时把大部分的功劳推给宜兰的亚热带气候。 他表示这样的气候加速了威士忌在木桶中熟 成的速度，使得它们在两年内就能发挥最大 的潜力。 「 （两年）是最短时间， 」他说。 「苏 格兰的气候比较阴凉，威士忌要花较长的时 间才能熟成。宜兰是台湾唯一拥有丰富、纯 净水源的县市，因此我们选择在这里设立酒 厂。酒厂的创始人李添财先生和我都来自宜 兰。我很感谢可以在离家这么近的地方工作， 到台北也只要 45 分钟。 」 张郁岚的职业生涯相当曲折。他 14 岁 便移居英国，在外待了九年才回国，不久 后便被噶玛兰酒厂雇用，这是他第一次在

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威士忌酒厂工作。张郁岚在雷丁大学取得 食品科学的学位，但从没想过自己会在家 乡故土上创造历史。他说 ： 「我当时听到 金车食品公司，也就是创立噶玛兰酒厂的 公司在征调酒师，我就寄了履历过去，他 们要我过去面试，当时的面试官是来自爱 丁堡的酒厂顾问 Jim Swan 博士。我顺利通 过所有的测验，得到了这份工作。我们现 在有 15 位负责制酒的同事，还有三位研 发部人员－我和另外两位助理。仓库里有 60,000 个木桶，箍桶也是在厂内进行，与 八位箍桶匠合作，所有的酒桶都由我们自 己翻新。」 在短短的八年间，张郁岚的团队已经

调制出十种威士忌，其中四种备受品酒专 家崇敬－经典噶玛兰单一麦芽威士忌及山 川首席单一麦芽威士忌，二者的酒精度皆 为 40 ；另外两种则是经典独奏系列的产品， 酒精度约为 57 到 59 ：经典独奏波本桶单 一麦芽威士忌，在使用过的波本桶中熟成、 而经典独奏雪莉桶单一麦芽威士忌，在雪 莉桶中熟成。同属这个系列的还有 Fino 雪 莉桶威士忌，在 Fino 雪莉桶中陈放，2012 年在 Jim Murray 的《威士忌圣经》中被评 定为年度最佳新品威士忌。顶级的 Vinho 葡萄酒桶单一麦芽威士忌，则是陈放在使 用过的、再次烧成黑炭的美国酒桶中，制 造出独特而复杂的果香。

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经典单一麦芽威士忌，是 2008 年噶 玛兰打头阵的新产品，喝过的人都称赞它 的柑橘及甘草风味，但张郁岚激赏的是它 滑顺的口感，加入芒果和青苹果更是画龙 点睛。「喝下带有葡萄酒尾劲的山川首席 威士忌，我尝到了莓果和黑醋栗放置在红 葡萄、波特酒桶，以及一些更老的葡萄酒 桶内的甜味。经典单一麦芽威士忌是在几 种不同的美国橡木桶中酿造而成－波本 桶、二手橡木桶、雪莉桶等等。美国橡木 释放出来的气味比较细致，因此在台湾这 么 炎 热 的 气 候 下， 我 们 有 95% 都 采 用 美 国橡木桶。如果使用太多欧洲橡木桶，酒 里头的单宁酸含量就会太高，让口感变得

苦涩，但欧洲的橡木桶在苏格兰就非常适 用。」 经典威士忌的酒瓶设计，灵感来自著 名的台北 101 大楼，而山川首席威士忌的 瓶子则是张郁岚自己设计的。「使用绿色的 瓶子是因为里头有红葡萄酒的成分，让威 士忌的颜色稍微偏红。如果我们选用透明 的瓶子，酒体的颜色会在阳光照射下被破 坏。」 现在噶玛兰酒厂每年酿造 140 万公升 的威士忌。最大的外销地－法国，就消费 了 32,000 瓶。至于苏格兰呢？他们是否对 挑战古老传统的暴发户相当反感？张郁岚 说： 「我多次踏足苏格兰，恩师 Jim Swan

博士曾告诉我，世界各地的威士忌产业像 是个绅士的俱乐部。当我们到苏格兰宣传 和品酒时，那里的人都非常友善、非常慷慨。 如果你遇到什么问题，就会发现苏格兰的 每一家酿酒厂都很愿意分享经验。调酒师 和技术人员并不会与彼此竞争。我认为唯 一有竞争的时候，可能是在贩售产品时吧。」 身为两个孩子的爸爸，张郁岚也提到 他太太完全不喝酒。 「她这么支持我，觉得 自己实在很幸运。」他说道。「当我在家时， 睡前喝点经典威士忌能让我放松。就个人 而言，我喜欢具有和谐感，口感完美平衡 的威士忌。」听到这个，相信有许多人会说， 他酿的酒切切实实地达到了这个标准。 formosa influence

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Glass bottles display the colors imparted by different types of oak barrels over time, from clear new make spirits to the deep mahoganies of ex-sherry cask whiskies. 玻璃酒瓶展示各种 橡木桶所酿威士 忌的不同颜色， 深浅随时间有所 变化，从清澈的 新酿酒液到雪莉 桶的深褐色。

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Ian Chang 张郁岚

INTERVIEW

完美气候掌控者

Climate Control Mamie Chen chats with Ian Chang about how a wild dream, a good nose, and firm faith in technology combined to create the world’s best whisky.

DAVID HARTUNG

Whose idea was is to take on something as risky as building a distillery in Taiwan?

Our chairman, Mr. Lee, Sr., was the visionary. He’d dreamed for a long time about owning his own distillery, but it wasn’t possible because the government had a monopoly on alcohol—producing, importing, or selling it. That changed in 2002 when Taiwan joined the WTO, and Mr. Lee didn’t waste any time in setting up this distillery.

His family told him not to do it because it couldn’t work. His friends at Suntory Whisky in Japan told him it wouldn’t work in Taiwan.

But Mr. Lee believed that every challenge could be overcome with the right technology and know-how. It was a gamble, but he insisted on doing it, and it worked.

Is Taiwan’s hot and humid climate a good thing or a bad thing for whisky?

It’s both good and bad. The maturation happens much faster here in Taiwan. One year here is equivalent to four to five years in a colder climate. But our “angels’ share”— the amount we lose to evaporation—is also four to five times higher. Our angels’ share is between 10 and 12 percent, compared to 2.5 or 3 percent in colder climates. That’s every year, so after five years we could lose 50 percent.

The high heat and humidity also means

国家截然不同，是谁那么大胆，决定在此 兴建蒸馏场？ 我们董事长李添财是眼光远大的梦想 家，多年来一直想建造属于自己的酒厂， 但以前酿酒、进口或贩售酒精产品为政府 垄 断 事 业， 因 而 迟 迟 无 法 完 成 梦 想。 但 2002 年台湾加入世界贸易组织 (WTO) 之 后情况出现转机，李董也以迅雷不及掩耳 之速盖了这间酒厂。 当时身边不管朋友及亲戚都对此不看 好，觉得不会成功，即使是在日本三得利 (Suntory) 威士忌酒厂的朋友都告诉他，在 台湾酿造威士忌行不通。但李董坚信，导 入正确的技术及方法，任何挑战都能迎刃 而解。这是场信念的赌局，他坚持勇往直前， 最终尝到成功的果实。 炎热潮湿的天气对酿制威士忌有何影响？ 是好还是坏？ 地处台湾，熟成速度较快，在这里一 年大概就等于寒冷气候国家的四五年，其 实有好有坏。熟成速度快，代表期间蒸发 的酒精，所谓「天使的分享」流失比例也 是四五倍之高，平均达 10% 到 12%，而寒 冷地区的蒸发率仅有 2.5% 到 3%。这还只 是一年份而已，过个五年流失比例可高达 五成。 高温及高湿度让木料萃取度较佳，味 道丰富，但同时有过度熟成的风险。木料 萃取过多到原液中，威士忌容易变得涩口、 橡木味重、酒体失去平衡。因此我们每年 定期品评威士忌，监控熟成程度，相对不 formosa influence

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INTERVIEW

在这里一年大概就等于寒冷气候国家的四五年，但 我们所谓「天使的分享」流失比例也是四五倍之高。” IAN CHANG, MASTER BLENDER OF KAVALAN DISTILLERY

greater extraction from the wood for a richer flavor. But then we run the risk of over-maturation. If too much is extracted from wood into the spirit, the whisky could become very astringent and woody and get out of balance. We have to taste our whisky every year to monitor the maturation. I‘ve heard from my Scottish friends that once they put the spirit in the cask, they only check it on the day they empty it eight or twelve years later.

What kinds of adjustments did you have to make for the climate here?

The entire process was modified by our whisky consultant, Dr. Jim Swan, to suit the conditions in Yilan. If we ever want to set up another distillery in a different part of Taiwan, we’d have to adjust everything again.

We need very clear wort from the mashing, so we use a special process to extract everything from the malted barley. This allows us to produce enough congeners and alcohol during fermentation. And to prevent bacterial infection, our washbacks are made of stainless steel. They have a special cooling system to control the temperature during fermentation and ensure consistency between batches. Jim Swan also advised us on which types of wood to use for maturation.

Is there a reason you don’t indicate the age on your whisky bottles?

We can’t afford to age our whisky for long

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periods in this hot climate because of the angels’ share. And it matures so fast that it isn’t necessary to age it for long. The Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique is only aged five years, but it just won the World’s Best Single Malt at the WWA against whiskies that were up to forty years old. It proves that in a hot climate we can produce world-class whisky without a lengthy aging period.

When you interviewed for the job, what did the nose test involve?

They gave me a series of twenty different notes to smell and describe—vanilla, coconut, fruits, different chemicals. My background in food chemistry helped because I could recognize and name the exact chemical substances. Otherwise, I would have had to describe them as “grandma’s wardrobe” or “the smell of Chinese baijiu.” I got 70 or 80 percent right, and three weeks later they called with the job.

What percentage of your job is about being a blender versus a brand ambassador?

Before we launched the whisky globally, my job was 70 to 80 percent as a blender. But these days, it’s the opposite. On average, I spend only five to seven days a month actually in Taiwan. Over the past two years I’ve collected half a million frequent-flier miles.

It’s a very fun job—in fact, for me it’s the best job in the world.

少苏格兰朋友和我说过的作法，他们把酒 倒进橡木桶后，下次检查往往已是八年、 十二年后，要将酒桶清空之际的事了。

因应在地气候做了哪些调整？ 酿酒过程所需的调整一切听从威士忌 顾问 Jim Swan 博士的建议，以适应台湾、 特别是宜兰的在地情况。想在台湾另一角 兴建蒸馏场的话，一切就得从头来过、重 新调配。我们要发泡后的麦汁越清澈越好， 为此使用非常特殊的麦芽萃取方式，也因 而发酵后能够产生充分的同源物及酒液 ； 同时为了避免可能的细菌感染，还使用内 建冷却系统的不锈钢制发酵桶，能于发酵 期间控制温度，不同批次也能保持一致性。 就连熟成所需的木料种类也是参考博士建 议来选用。 酒瓶上不标年份是否有什么特殊原因？ 炎热气候下怕「天使的分享」流失过快， 我们家威士忌无法长时间放置熟成。熟成 速度如此之​​快，说实在也无须特地久放保 存。葛玛兰经典独奏 Vinho 葡萄酒桶威士 忌 (Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique) 熟成期间 仅短短五年，却在 2015 年世界威士忌大奖 赛 (WWA) 击败其他动辄四十年以上的强 敌，勇夺最佳单一麦芽威士忌奖，证明即 使身处亚热带气候，仍能酿制出不须长期 熟成的世界级威士忌。 当你来应徵这份工作时，嗅觉测试需要考 些什么？ 他们让我闻一系列不同的味道，还要 加以描述－香草、椰子、水果及各式不同 化学品。此时我所学的专业 ：食品化学也 派上用场，得以分辨并说出个别化学成份 的名称，否则我大概只能用「老祖母的衣柜」 或「中国白酒」等方式来形容。当时大概 答对了七八成，三周过后接到了录取电话。 现在的工作，担任酿酒师及品牌大使比例 为何？ 威士忌全球发售之前，酿酒大概占了 工 作 的 七 八 成 左 右， 但 近 年 刚 好 反 了 过 来，平均一个月只在台湾待个五到七天。 过去两年间，累积的飞航里程数就已达到 五十万英哩。这份工作真的很好玩－应该 说，对我而言是全世界最棒的工作。

DAVID HARTUNG

“One year here is equivalent to four to five years in a colder climate. But our “angels’ share”—the amount we lose to evaporation—is also four to five times higher.

Kavalan currently stores over 55,000 barrels of whisky, with a second warehouse that will soon double that number. 「葛玛兰(Kavalan)」目前存有超过 55,000桶威士忌，第二间酒厂仓库 落成后，藏量可望成长一倍。

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Southern French Nouvelle 41 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore 089855 q +65 6534 8880 Tue to Sun: 12:00-14:00; 19:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Bar Butler Shelter

29/F Asia Pacific Center, 8 Wyndham Street, Hong Kong q +852 2619 0229 Mon to Sat: 18:00-01:00

Check-In Taipei

Taiwanese G/F, 27 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷李活道27号地下 q +852 2351 2622 Mon to Thur: 12:00-00:00; Fri: 12:0001:00; Sat: 14:30-01:00 5

A dessert from Chef Tin Mo Wong’s new Ru Yi Yan tasting menu for Ya Ge at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei: Osmanthus Cream, Fresh Pankan, Yuzu Sorbet, and Kalamansi Sauce. 台北文华东方酒店雅阁中餐厅主厨黄天武为如意宴设计的甜点：桂花奶油佐鲜椪柑衬金桔酱

Ham & Sherry

Ho Lee Fook 口利福

Chinese 1 Elgin Street, Central District, Hong Kong 香港中环伊利近街1-5号地下 q +852 2810 0860 Daily: 18:00-00:00 5

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩

Chinese-Cantonese 2/F The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau​ 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道2楼 q +853 8868 2822 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual. Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers ankle-deep with closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

5

LaVilla

G28 Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Road, TST East, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀么地道66号尖沙咀中心地下 G28号铺 q +852 2724 0707 Mon to Sun: 12:00-02:00 A Smart Casual

Le Moût Restaurant 乐沐法式餐厅

French 59, Cunjhong St., Taichung 403, Taiwan 台湾台中市西区存中街59号 q +886 04 2375 3002 Tue to Sun: 11:30-14:30; 18:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

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Mume

A Smart Casual. Gentlemen should refrain

from wearing sleeveless t-shirts, shorts, open shoes (sandals) or slippers. Children aged six years and above are welcome.

Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the bar area and the private dining room.

Modern European No.28 Siwei Road, Daan District, Taipei, Taiwan 台湾台北市大安区四维路28号 q +886 2 2700 0901 Tue to Sun: 18:00-00:00 A Smart Casual 5

Quinary

Ground Floor, 56-58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷李活道56-58号地下 q +852 2851 3223

Raw

Bistronomy No.301, Le Qun 3rd Road, Taipei City, Taiwan 台湾台北市中山区乐群三路301号1楼 q +886 2 8501 5800 Wed to Sun: 11:30-14:30; 18:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

Stay Taipei

French 4/F, Taipei 101 Shopping Mall, No.45,Shifu Road, Xinyi District, Taipei 110,Taiwan 110 台北市市府路45号101 购物中心4 楼 q +886 02 8101 8177 Daily: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

The Tasting Room 御膳房

French 3/F, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地澳门皇冠度 假酒店3楼 q +853 8868 6681 Mon to Sun: 12:00-15:00;18:00-23:00 5

Temptations 品味坊 International 16/F Star World Macau, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店16楼 q +853 8290 8688 Mon to Fri: 7:00-22:00 Sat & Sun: 12:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐厅 Chinese & Western 2/F Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华 东方酒店2楼 q +853 8805 8918 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Ya Ge 雅阁餐厅 Cantonese 3F, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei, 158 Dunhua North Road, Taipei 10548, Taiwan 台湾台北敦化北路158号台北文华东方酒店 3楼 q +886 2 2715 6788 Mon to Fri: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:00 Sat, Sun & PH: 11:30-15:00; 18:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

DAVID HARTUNG

1-7 Ship Street, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔船街1-7号地下 q +852 2555 0628

Sedona, Arizona

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DAVID HARTUNG

DESSERT

Petit Nine, its name a play on the tiny French cakes, is a vivid mosaic of nine intense bites of fruit and confectionery presented in opulent porcelain pieces. It is the culminating course of a tasting menu inspired by Chinese Imperial cuisine and featuring Taiwanese ingredients. Presented by Ruyi Gastronomy at Ya Ge at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei, the assortment includes oolong tea chocolate, pink guava chocolate, passion fruit pâte de fruit, almond cookies, and black vinegar jelly. 多种小巧精致的法式糕点以「奇巧西点」为名罗列于豪华精瓷器皿上，以九宫格形式让饕客品评味道鲜明浓郁的水 果及点心。「奇巧西点」为体现中国宫廷料理及台湾食材之美的台北文华东方酒店雅阁中餐厅「如意宴」划下完美 句点。九宫格组合包括乌龙茶巧克力、芭乐巧克力、百香果水果糖、杏仁饼干、及黑醋栗水果糖等美味小点。

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TASTE CULTURE

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”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com