TK20 Seasoned with Song

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 20

K I T C H E N

SEASONED WITH SONG

HONG KONG & MACAU

Suite Gastronomique 飨食之乐 CAUSEWAY BAY

The Sounds of Champagne 香槟之声 ITALY

Singing and Digesting 纵情声食

DAVID HARTUNG

STARTER

Few iconic Japanese ingredients are more beloved than uni sea urchin and ikura salmon roe. ​ Shoku uses both to brilliant effect in their decadent, umami-laden take on a hand-rolled temaki sushi. 在具代表性的日式食材中，几乎没有比海胆和鲑鱼卵更让人爱不释手的品项了。 ​ Shoku将两者巧妙地运用在手卷寿司里，奢华地呈现滑嫩又极富鲜味的口感。

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T A S T I N G

K I T C H E N

SEASONED WITH SONG

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Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3815 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

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Mark Hammons

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FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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David Hartung

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HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 20

K I T C H E N

SEASONED WITH SONG

HONG KONG & MACAU

Suite Gastronomique 飨食之乐 CAUSEWAY BAY

The Sounds of Champagne 香槟之声 ITALY

Singing and Digesting 纵情声食

TK20 Cover.indd 2

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TK | seasoned with song

Norjoo Ganbold at Prem1er Bar and Tasting Room in Macau, presents a bowl of Chinggis Khan, a top-notch vodka produced in her native Mongolia.

According to Mongolian tradition, the spirit is served in a silver bowl; the drinker dips a ring finger then toasts to the sky. For more on Prem1er see page 70. 在澳门的Prem1er Bar and Tasting Room的 Norjoo Ganbold正双手捧着一碗 Chinggis Khan––这是在她故乡蒙古制造的顶级伏特加。根据蒙古传统，这种 酒必须盛装在银碗中，饮者先用无名指轻沾酒液，再向天敬弹。更多关于 Prem1er的资讯请翻到第70页。

Photography by David Hartung

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2015 All rights reserved

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Seasoned with Song, TK explores the complex – and often surprising – interplay between music and gastronomy.

We start by going back to the ancient Greek symposium, an incongruous mix of genteel poetry and song with rowdy drinking and games.

In Hong Kong, we visit a new restaurant and lounge where DJs play late-night vinyl sets and guests can listen to albums of their choice at private turntables. Then we talk with one of the city’s most influential mixmasters about how he tailors his engaging playlists to fit the individual style of each brand. And down in Repulse Bay, a beachside brunch of Hokkaido kinki fish grilled over binchotan is savored to the live sounds of a jazz trio.

The CEO of one of the world’s most coveted Champagne brands explores the evocative relationship between sound and taste, how tone and pitch have the power to induce distinct flavor profiles and heighten the palate’s sensitivity. Then we learn how the great opera composer Rossini, a renowned lover of food, inspired the famous chefs of his day to dedicate culinary masterpieces in his honor.

In our cover story, we take a close look at the kaleidoscope of ways in which music subjectively shapes the dining experience: it can attract the right customers and encourage them to stay longer and spend more; it can prod guests to eat faster in order to free up tables; it can generate an atmosphere or create an illusion of privacy.

And we discover how science is showing that music can actually alter the perceptions of the sense of taste itself.

Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Wine, No Women, and Song • 12 Wine and Dine with Vinyl • 14 Mixed Trio 16 Nikkei on the Way • 18 Japanese with Jazz • 22 Eat and Groove • 26 The Sounds of Champagne 30 Singing and Digesting • 38 Suite Gastronomique • 46 Taste the Seasons

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50 Cream of the Crop • 56 Always in Season • 58 Edible Art • 62 Ebb & Flow 64 Haute Cantonese • 68 True Shanghai • 70 Important Imports 78 The Three Plénitudes of Dom Pérignon • 86 Toasting the Team • 94 Tasting the Stars 93 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 96 L A S T C A L L

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FOOD AND ART

男士专属－畅饮高歌

Wine, No Women, and Song Travel back to the time when gentlemen’s gatherings were all about poetry and music – and flinging wine around the room.

A YOUNG MAN STANDS UP and proclaims he will recite a poem.

Reaching for a lyre, he accompanies his composition with melodious strains to general admiration. Nearby, a robed man with trimmed beard reclines on one elbow, leaning close to the mosaic floor beneath his pillowed couch. He grasps the graceful handles of a shallow, delicately decorated pottery vessel and raises it as if to drink in toast. Instead, he swirls the watery dregs around the bowl, raises the cup higher with one hand, and hurls the contents at a metal stand in the middle of the room, knocking a wooden disc from the top. Every man in the room, flush with drink, rowdily praises his victory at the game called kottabos .

Welcome to an ancient Greek symposium, nothing other than a glorified all-male drinking bout. As a key Hellenic institution, it was a regular fixture on the social calendar of every man of means. Such private parties usually took place after dinner, with invited guests, rarely more than two dozen in number, reclining together in a couch-lined room in the residence of the host. The supply of wine was copious and free flowing, but at least it was watered down – drinking it straight was considered uncivilized.

Wine was served from a krater, a large storage and mixing container, and poured into a kylix , a terracotta cup of a form specially designed for the event. The red-figure kylix shown here depicts a scene of a music lesson for boys and is believed to have been crafted in an Athenian workshop around 500 BC. In ancient Greece music was considered one of three fundamentals in the education of males, as important to their proper upbringing as literacy and physical education. Greek philosophers went so far as to state that music and mathematics were integral to the harmonious order, not only of the human soul, but of the cosmos itself.

Common instruments for Greek boys included the lyre, depicted on the cup’s interior, and, on the outside, the aulos , an extinct wind instrument thought to be similar to a modern clarinet or oboe. A liberal education in the musical arts would be needed later in life. Young men were introduced into society at symposia, where they were expected to acquit themselves well in the poetry and singing competitions – among other more boisterous games of skill.

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年轻男子起身宣告他要朗读诗篇，拿起里拉 琴悦耳地弹奏，为他的吟诵带来动人伴奏， 吸引目光。就在离他不远处一位身着长袍、 留着落腮胡的男士用一边的手腕撑着身体， 侧躺在沙发底下的马赛克地。他举起陶碗雕 工精细小巧典雅的把手，像是要豪气地一饮 而尽。但他没有，反而轻轻摇晃起碗中的酒 渣并将杯子举得更高，然后将酒用力洒向房 间中央的金属杆，试图击下挂在杆上的木盘。 房里每个男人高呼著赞美声，轮流将手中的 酒洒尽，这个随性地互相较量的竞赛便是「铜 。 盘游戏 (kottabos)」 古希腊时代所谓参加研讨会，其实是当 时男性参加酒会的代称。作为古希腊的主要 习俗，饮酒聚会被视为富豪绅士间附庸风雅 的社交活动。像这样的私人宴会通常在晚餐 后举办，主人加上宾客不超过二十四位，一 起在主人家的沙发房玩起倒洒酒水的趣味竞 赛。在当时直接饮酒被看作是不合教养的行 为，因此酒都是稀释过的，在宴会中大量地 无限供应。 宴会的酒水存放在名为 krater 的大酒盆 中，再分别倒入为宴会特制的基利克斯陶杯 （Kylix） 。此西元前五百年由一雅典工坊出厂 的红像式基利克斯陶杯绘制的是上音乐课的 男孩，在古希腊时代音乐和文学、哲学并列 为男子培育的三大基础教育课程。希腊哲学 家认为当人类智慧升华到完美境界时，音乐 和数学就互相融为一体，不只能净化人的心 灵，同时也能促进宇宙的和谐。 在杯中绘制的是希腊男子都会弹奏的里 拉琴，在杯缘上可以看到直笛，据说跟现在 的单簧管和双簧管有点相似，他们深信开明 多元的音乐教育可以陶冶性情。年轻男士被 邀请参加交流酒会，在吟诗高歌的竞赛中相 互较劲，并具备参加各项游戏的技巧，以展 现最佳的一面。

This Grecian earthenware red-figure kylix, dating from the 5th century BC, depicts a music lesson for boys.

此西元前五百年的红像式基利克斯陶杯绘制的是上音乐课的男孩

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RED FIGURE KYLIX WITH MUSIC LESSON, 500-480 B.C . (EARTHENWARE, RED-FIGURE ), GREEK SCHOOL ,

(5TH CENTURY BC ) / MEAD ART MUSEUM, AMHERST COLLEGE, MA, USA / MUSEUM PURCHASE / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

DESIGN

美馔佳酿，黑胶伴享

Wine and Dine with Vinyl A new arrival on the Wan Chai scene plays its harmony of DJ sounds, natural wines, and European food inside a space that feels like home.

Settle in for a listening session at one of eight private turntables, complete with headphones and a shelf for food and drink. 准备好耳机和摆放架子上的食物饮料，在八 台私人唱盘上择一播放的美妙音律。

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MyHouse features a wall full of old-school vinyl, which can be browsed by staff, the venue’s resident DJs, and patrons.

MyHouse的墙身满放特色老式黑胶唱 片的收藏品，这里的唱片可供工作人 员、驻场DJ和老顾客们随意翻阅。

COURTESY OF MYHOUSE (2)

“MYHOUSE IS YOUR HOUSE,” says Alison

Christ, putting into words the welcoming ambience that pervades this smooth synthesis of late-night music venue, restaurant, bar, cafe, and lounge. As founder and general manager, she’s been involved in putting every part of it together, from interior design and event-scheduling to planning the menu and selecting the wines.

Central to the open-plan space is the bar, with visually connected purpose-driven areas clustered around it. Wood-clad beams add warmth, and color choices convey the comfort of a living room. Mohamad Ghamlouch of Minus Collective, the firm behind the interior, notes that lighting was carefully configured for “a variety of moods depending on the time of day and the type of event.”

Furniture and fittings were customdesigned by Minus in close collaboration with Christ and her team. “For the DJ booth,” says Ghamlouch, “we sat down with the sound consultant and DJ to make the performance experience a great one. And things like the tables on the dance floor were

designed to be coherent with the bar and DJ booth in terms of materials and form.”

Resident DJs play vinyl-only sets four nights a week, and before eleven o’clock patrons can select albums – house music to reggae – from a wall of vinyl and listen at one of eight private turntables.

MyHouse is open for brunch, lunch, afternoon break, dinner, and late-night music hour. European-style sharing platters by Executive Chef Peter Birks feature organic produce, free-range meats, and sustainable seafood, and the list of natural wines for pairing is chosen by Executive Thirst Quencher James French and Christ, a certified sommelier.

The walls are lined with art, exhibits that Christ plans to change bi-monthly “to encourage creative discussions.” It was just such exchanges that brought about the collaboration between MyHouse and Minus Collective in the first place: “We shared common interests in music, art and, of course, good food and wine,” says Ghamlouch. “We were friends to begin with.” In other words, it was just like coming home.

「我家就是你家。」Alison Christ 如此形容 MyHouse 餐厅，深夜音乐表演、餐厅、咖 啡厅、酒廊、酒吧自然而完美的结合，让 这个地方弥漫着宾至如归的氛围。身为餐 厅 创 办 人 及 总 经 理，Christ 从 室 内 装 潢、 活动安排、菜单设计到酒类的挑选无一缺 席、全程参与。 酒吧位于这个敞开式空间的中心，其 他区块则因视觉上的空间诉求围绕在酒吧 周遭。木制横梁添上几分温馨感，而在颜 色的选择上更缔造了舒适的氛围，宛如自 家的客厅。 Minus Collective 的室内设计师 Mohamad Ghamlouch 提到他相当谨慎地调 整灯光，使其能为「不同的时间和节目营 造各式各样的气氛」。 家 具 设 备 则 是 由 Minus Collective 订 做，同时与 Christ 及她的团队密切合作。 Ghamlouch 说 ： 「在设计 DJ 播音室时，我 们和音响顾问还有 DJ 坐下来讨论，希望所 有人都能体验到最好的表演。」因此舞台上 的桌子经过特别设计，使其在材质和形式 上都能和酒吧及 DJ 播音室完美搭配。 每周四天会有 DJ 驻场播放黑胶唱片， 而在晚上十一点前，顾客可以自己挑选墙 上的黑胶唱片，从家庭音乐到雷鬼摇摆乐 任君选择，在八台私人唱盘上择一播放。 MyHouse 提供早午餐、午餐、下午茶、 晚餐及深夜音乐时段。欧式菜肴及摆盘由 行政总厨 Peter Birks 精心设计，采用有机 食材、放养动物肉制品和可持续海洋食品。 搭配佳肴的天然酒酿由酒吧总经理 James French 和拥有品酒师资格的 Christ 精心挑 选。 Christ 打算每隔两个月就更新一次墙 上的画作和展品，以「激励创意讨论」。这 样 的 交 流 就 是 MyHouse 和 Minus Collective 合作的初衷，Ghamlouch 说道 ： 「我们 都爱好音乐和艺术，也钟爱美酒与佳肴， 我们打从一开始就是朋友。」换句话说，这 感觉就像回家一样亲切熟悉。 seasoned with song

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TASTING NEWS

美食三重奏

mixed trio The Ritz-Carlton gives Macau three of the city’s most distinctive new dining-and-drinking destinations.

THE RITZ-CARLTON BAR & LOUNGE is the place to be for afternoon tea (with or without Champagne) or evening drinks or a light meal anytime from the contemporary East-meetsWest menu. This plush venue on the fiftyfirst floor comes fully equipped with dizzying views over Cotai. For the nightlife set there are DJs and pop-up parties, and fans of craft cocktails simply can’t resist the signature mix-and-match gin and tonic menu.

丽思酒廊提供下午茶（可选香槟搭配） 和多款精心调制的酒精饮料，此外亦有 融合中西特色的轻食，不限时间供应。 酒廊整体格调高贵优雅，位于澳门丽思 卡尔顿酒店 51 楼，客人可饱览路氹城令 人目不暇给的迷人景致。当夜幕低垂， 丽思酒廊随即变成 DJ 和动感派对进驻的 休闲場所，而喜欢花式调酒的人更是不 容错过这里的招牌琴通宁。

L A I H E E N , also perched on the hotel’s fifty-first floor, has bragging rights as the highest Chinese restaurant in Macau. The opulent space combines both Chinese and Portuguese decorative details, including a spectacular array of ornamental ceramics, but the menu is pure Cantonese. Signature dishes include grilled Iberian pork, steamed crab claw in lobster bisque, and braised pork belly with preserved vegetables. The wine list abounds in Bordeaux and Portuguese selections, and a tea master is always on hand to help choose the perfect pu-erh.

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丽轩同样位于 51 楼，傲居城市上空，是 全澳门最高楼层的中菜厅，空间布置富 丽堂皇，巧妙揉合中葡风格，包括排列

COURTESY OF RITZ CARLTON, MACAU (3)

壮观的瓷器摆设，然而菜单提供的是正 宗粤菜，招牌菜色包括蜜烧西班牙黑豚 肉叉烧、龙皇蛋白蒸蟹钳以及丽轩特色 梅菜扣腩肉。酒单提供多款波尔多和葡 萄牙美酒，亦有茶艺师协助宾客挑选优 质普洱茶。

T H E R I T Z-C A R LT O N C A F É on the ground floor is all marble and mirrors, setting a decidedly Parisian mood. The all-day brasserie menu has freshly shucked oysters, sparkling shellfish platters, and classics like sole, steak tartare (prepared tableside), and crêpes Suzette. Afternoon tea is served to live music, and among the chic treats are elegant pastries and Valrhona chocolat chaud . A range of artisanal beers and biodynamic French wines is always available.

丽思咖啡厅位于酒店地面层，全大理石 和落地镜的装潢设计，散发浓厚的巴黎 情调。菜单全天候供应，有即开即食的 新鲜生蚝、丰富的海鲜拼盘以及众多经 典美食，像是奶油香煎比目鱼、手切生 牛肉配厨师秘制酱汁（桌旁现做）以及 法式香橙班戟。下午茶时间，宾客可一 边聆听现场演奏音乐，一边品尝精心制 作的餐点，包括精致糕点搭配 Valrhona 热朱古力。另有各式各样的手工精酿啤 酒和法国活机葡萄酒可供点用。

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TASTING NEWS

日式秘鲁料理即将到来

nikkei on the way Two great cultures will merge on the exciting new menu at MGM Cotai’s first dining venue.

Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura​ 大厨津村光晴

Ccapchi e Tofu served at Maido, Lima, Peru

Cacao (yuzu, shica shica ice cream, mochis, Bahuaja nuts, cacao nibs)

MAIDO (2), MGM MACAU (RIGHT )

可可 (日本柚子、斯卡果雪糕、麻 糬、巴华亚果仁、可可碎粒)

WHEN THE MGM COTAI OPENS ITS DOORS LATE NEXT YEAR, diners will be the big winners. The resort’s debut restaurant will be AJI featuring the Nikkei cuisine of celebrated chef Mitsuharu Tsumura.

It will be Macau’s first taste of Nikkei, that singular meld of Japanese and Peruvian techniques and flavors. Chef Tsumura, a native of Peru, is one of its masters – Maido, his restaurant in Lima, recently made the list of S.Pellegrino’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Since Peruvian and Japanese cuisines both have a way with raw fish, it was bound to become a mainstay of Nikkei cuisine. Peru’s unique indigenous produce – ancient cultivars of maize, pungent chilis, quinoa, and heirloom beans – is showcased beautifully. At a recent luncheon heralding Chef Tsumura’s collaboration, he gave a select group of guests a preview of coming attractions at AJI. His menu included a ceviche of limpets (a sort of sea snail), nigiri of steak and egg with ponzu, scallops with maca (a Peruvian root), amaebi (sweet shrimp) with chia, and a meaty dish of slow-braised wagyu shortribs with Peruvian potato cream.

The restaurant will feature a ceviche bar and a hibachi. Pisco will be served alongside sake and shochu. Even the choice of the restaurant’s name bridges the two cultures: AJI means “chili” in Spanish and “flavor” in Japanese.

来年年底美高梅路氹项目敞开大门之时，各路饕客将是最大 的赢家。在这家度假酒店打头阵的是以日式秘鲁菜为特色的 雅吉餐厅 (AJI)，是和名厨津村光晴携手推出的合作项目。 这将会是第一次在澳门有机会尝到结合了两种料理技术 和风味的日式秘鲁菜。生于秘鲁的津村光晴大厨是烹饪此系 料理的大师，他在利马的餐厅 Maido 登上了 S. Pellegrino 世 界 50 最佳餐厅的排行榜。 秘鲁料理和日本料理烹调生鱼都很有一套，因此它注定 成为日式秘鲁菜的主要阵容。秘鲁原住民独特的食材历史悠 久、品种独特的玉米、呛鼻的辣椒、藜麦和祖传的豆类，也 在料理中发挥得淋漓尽致。在最近一次与主厨合作的私人品 鉴午宴上，他为特选的宾客率先呈献即将在雅吉餐厅上桌的 美味佳肴。当天的菜色包括腌帽贝、柑橘酢伴牛扒鸡蛋、玛 卡伴扇贝、香料伴甜虾以及一道慢炖的和牛小肋骨配上马铃 薯忌廉等。 餐厅内将设有特色秘鲁刺身吧和火炉烧烤，除了日式米 酒和烧酒外 , 餐厅也设有 Pisco 酒吧。就连餐厅名称也连结 了两种文化： AJI 在西班牙文意谓「辣椒」，在日文则有「味道」 的意涵。 seasoned with song

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TASTING NOTES

爵士日本料理

Japanese with Jazz Expertly executed cuisine and sophisticated sounds intersect at Shoku.

THE BOARDWALK AT REPULSE BAY is alive 温暖的星期天，浅水湾的滨海步道有在悠 with dragon boaters and strolling families out 闲漫步的一家大小和准备出发划舟的人们。 for a warm Sunday by the beach. Japanese 日式餐厅 Shoku 正准备好迎接着想吃早午 restaurant Shoku is pulling in brunch-seek餐的顾客，店里原木备长炭炉散发出的香 ers with irresistible aromas from its authentic 气令人难以抗拒，它正以极高的温度燃烧 binchotan grill that burns at a fierce temper着，却不会制造出任何烟熏的气味。 ature, but without smoky odors. 餐 厅 负 责 人 Elaine Yeh 和 她 的 先 生 Owner Elaine Yeh and her husband Ivan Ivan 知道如何让香港的饕客爱上日本料理， know what gets Hong Kong diners 他 们 成 功 地 让 Kishoku 餐 厅 跃 BY excited about Japanese food – 升为当地最广为谈论的「景点」 CHRIS DWYER they turned Kishoku into one of 之 一。 而 在 Shoku 餐 厅， 他 们 the most talked-about arrivals on 的料理是种启发，这次更加上 PHOTOGRAPHY BY the local scene. Again at Shoku, 了些声音来助阵。 DAVID HARTUNG their food is a revelation, but this 加入现场爵士乐演奏是 time augmented with sound.

Elaine 的点子。她说 ： 「在南边 The idea for live jazz was Elaine’s. 还没有餐厅做现场演奏，于是我们决定每 “Nobody on the south side was doing live 周四和周日提供现场演奏，并邀请不同的 music,” she says. “We decided to offer it 乐团来实验看看，很幸运被邀的乐团都是 Thursdays and Sundays. We’ve experimented 我们早午餐时段的常客。」 with different bands, but we’re lucky these 这 次 邀 请 来 的 是 个 三 人 乐 团，Mike guys are our regulars at brunch.”

Carr 演奏低音贝斯，Mark Peter 弹奏钢琴， The guys in question are trio Mike Carr 主唱则是 Tess Collins。虽然他们的音乐背 on bass, Mark Peter on piano, and Tess Col景相当不同，对音乐风格的理念却十分相 lins on vocals. From very different musical 近。 backgrounds, they share a common stylis主 唱 Collins 的 声 音 刚 柔 并 济， 她 说 tic sensibility. Collins, with a voice at once Alicia Keys、Stevie Wonder 和 Joss Stone 是 potent and velvety, cites Alicia Keys, Stevie 启发她最多的歌手。她受过古典钢琴的训 Wonder, and Joss Stone as inspirations. 练，曾到世界各地演出，而她第一张个人 Classically trained on piano, she performs 专辑亦即将推出。 Collins 也发现音乐和料 around the world, and her first solo album 理交织时，会有种跃动的潜力油然升起： 「音 will soon be out. She finds energizing poten乐能创造出一种气氛，让寻常的一顿饭变 tial in the intersection of music and cuisine: 成一次独特的体验。当人们开始注意到我， “Music creates an atmosphere that can turn 专心听我和喜爱的音乐家一同表演时，那 a meal into an experience. When people are 感觉真的很令人沉醉。」 really tuned in to me and the musicians I love 今天的表演曲目包括他们相当熟练的 working with, it’s a genuine high.” Today’s set People Get Ready，演奏得相当惬意。而 includes a mellow “People Get Ready,” and 当三位音乐家开始演奏较激动的歌曲时， when the three move into something sultry, 他们就像店里的备长炭一般彼此刷出的 they demonstrate an ability, like the bincho火花，释放出无限热能，把现场气氛炒得 tan, to generate plenty of heat. 火热。

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Mussels 蓝青口

The shellfish are gently steamed and served in a sauce made with white wine, cream, and sake. An original spin on moules marinières, the dish pays homage to the classic while introducing a Japanese component.

The interplay between Japanese and French influences and ingredients, hugely popular in Japan, clearly works well in Hong Kong too. 盘中的蓝青口先经过温和的蒸煮，再淋上白酒、奶油和清酒制成的 酱料。这道菜源自经典菜式法式白酒煮青口，而这个版本则加入了 些日式元素。这道融合日法风格与食材的料理， 不只在日本广受欢迎， 在香港也获得人们的青睐。

Pasta 意大利面

The pasta, like everything else, is simple in execution, with a cream sauce that’s not as rich as a carbonara, since diners invariably wish to focus their attention on the treasured uni. Black truffle subtly infuses the strands, and golden ikura roe lends a decadent touch.

Shiso flowers make a delicate finish atop the golden orange mound of sea urchin, which reigns as one of the world’s great gourmet ingredients. 这道意大利面就像其他料理一样，作法相当简单，使用的奶油酱不 像卡邦那般浓郁，因为饕客们必定想把注意力放在珍贵的海胆上。 黑松露的气味温和地注入海胆之中，金黄的鲑鱼卵则提供了软嫩的 口感。海胆堪称是世上最美妙的美馔之一，轻放在橘黄海胆堆上的 紫苏花为这道料理画下完美的句点。

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TASTING NOTES

Hairy Crab 北海道毛蟹

The hairy crab at Shoku, also from Hokkaido, is a huge crustacean that’s a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. The legs are eaten with vinegar, the roe is removed and served with salad to highlight its creamy umami flavor, and it’s also served as sushi.

Yeh explains, “In common with a lot of Japanese dishes, it is eaten as simply as possible to best taste the freshness.”

The binchotan charcoal comes from the region of Wakayama, and it imparts a distinctive flavor that penetrates the food.

Barbecue, the most elemental of cooking methods, is perfect for Shoku’s wagyu beef short ribs, slow-cooked for four hours. The tangy secret sauce, made from sake, mirin, and tomato, deeply infuses the meat.

Shoku 餐厅的毛蟹同样来自北海道，这种巨 大的甲壳动物，不管在视觉或味觉上都是种 飨 宴。 蟹 脚 可 以 沾 醋 食 用， 而 蟹 卵 被 取 出 做 成 沙 拉 或 寿 司， 以 突 显 其 柔 滑 的 鲜 味。 「就像很多其他的日本料理一 Elaine 解释道 ： 样，吃法要尽量简单，才能完整尝到它的原 有鲜味。 」 烘烤用的备长炭来自日本的和歌山县， 其独特的炭香味能够渗透食材。烧烤是最主 要的烹调方法，适合用于 Shoku 的神户牛小 排，牛排必须以慢火烤上四个小时方能上桌。 烤好的牛肉吸收了由清酒、味醂和番茄制成 的独门酱汁。

Kinki Fish 盐烧喜之次

This fish, not always easy to source, is a prized Japanese delicacy that is linecaught in the cold waters off Hokkaido. The flesh is soft and tender, with a taste unlike anything else. It takes an hour over the charcoal with constant attention, and even then it is sometimes mistakenly thought to be undercooked. All it needs to bring out its buttery flavor is a simple seasoning of volcanic salt. 这种不容易捕获的鱼，是日本的获奖佳肴，必须在北海道沿岸用钓竿从冰冷的海 水中钓起。喜知次鱼的鱼肉软嫩， 口感独一无二。它需要在木炭上细心烘烤一小时， 且常被误认为没烤熟。只需洒上一点火山盐巴调味，就能带出它滑顺的口感。 seasoned with song

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INTERVIEW

最佳佐餐良伴：音乐

Eat and Groove Simon Pang Washford is the go-to mixmaster of Hong Kong’s fashion set, the

London-born DJ who has curated playlists for the likes of Lane Crawford, Christian Louboutin, Alfred Dunhill, Prada, and Stella McCartney. Recently named Head of Music for the exclusive KEE Club, he’s busy working on a program for its forthcoming restaurant, Koko. He takes time out to give TK’s Barbra Austin his recipe for the perfect dining soundtrack. § Simon Pang Washford是香港时尚名店竞

相聘请的音乐大师。许多名店，如 Lane Crawford、Christian Louboutin、Alfred Dunhill、Prada 以及 Stella McCartney 等，均礼聘这名出生于伦敦的 DJ 所选定

的音乐播放清单。最近 KEE Club也聘他担任首席音乐总监，这一阵子他忙着 为即将开幕的餐厅 Koko，营造最恰当的音乐风格。百忙之中抽空跟我们分享

DAVID HARTUNG

完美用餐音乐的秘诀。 Where do you start with a restaurant project?

I get to know how my clients want to be perceived, who they want to attract. That’s first off. But sometimes where they are and where they want to be can be out of kilter. I get to know the people at the front of house, everyone that’s involved, so that the personality of the host, the chef, comes out through the music. No two projects are alike.

Music and food is much like music and fashion. They go hand in hand. But if you get it wrong, it can just be annoying and drive people away. So mixing music is very much like cooking. It’s the right ingredients. And I like to be bold with different genres. I think music in dining has moved on a lot in the past five years. It used to be quite staid and very instrumental and very careful. But I think as the casual fine dining revolution has really come through, a lot more is acceptable. So we can experiment more with new and old genres, and that’s what I really love. I love digging for old stuff, rediscovering, but also just finding out what is out there as far as new artists. And what I want at KEE, as much as a great soundtrack, is something that people can actually discover, that they’ve never heard before, or something they can rediscover.

您如何着手进行这一类计画？ 我了解餐厅老板希望如何被看待，也 知道他们想吸引什么样的顾客，这只是第 一步。当然有时候现实与想象的确存在落 差。我了解在前场工作的每一个服务人员， 因而到幕后的餐厅老板和主厨的个性特征， 都可以通过音乐展现出来。我经手过的计 画都不尽相同。 音乐和食物的关系好比音乐和时尚， 可说是相辅相成。一旦搭配得不好，就是 会让人受不了，而客人也可能不再上门。 所以选择音乐就像烹饪，重点在于选材得 宜。而我喜欢大胆选用不同元素。我认为 过去五年来，业界开始注意到用餐时播放 的音乐。 以往过度强调乐器，太过小心翼翼， 显得过于保守。但现在流行高雅闲适的用 餐环境，愈来愈多餐厅播放轻松的时尚音 乐。所以我们不妨多点尝试拿旧元素跟新 元素调和，我很爱这样玩。我热爱探索旧 有原素，继而再重新发现它的美好，找出 里头到底有什么东西，就像新手艺术家一 路摸索那样。我希望客人来到 KEE，就像 听到一张很棒的原声带，他们能有新的发 现，如听到从没听过的音乐，或重新发现 某些事物。 这些都是关键，是客户想要被看待的 方式，而老板的性格跟产品决定了餐厅的 基调，这样才可永续经营。 seasoned with song

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INTERVIEW

And what I want … is something that people can actually discover, that they’ve never heard before, or something they can rediscover. 我所希望的，是大家能够有所发现，如他们以前没 听過的音乐，或者能再次挖掘以前忽略的事物。

What do you mean by sustainable?

You can have an incredibly cool theme that you want to work with, and then you find yourself running out of music. And you have to have an idea of where you’re going to next.

And repeat customers probably don’t want to hear the same music every time they come in.

You’ve got to be refreshing all the time.

People get bored. It’s important for music to be refreshed, and it’s important to get the balance right. Music should be a part of the experience in dining, but it shouldn’t be the main focus. It’s great to pick up on stuff and say, “Oh, I haven’t heard this for a while,” but it shouldn’t be the main focus when you’re in a restaurant. The food should be.

How much does the style of food influence your playlists? How are you approaching Koko, for example?

At the moment I’m having a battle with myself. I’m like, “OK, it’s Japanese, it’s sake,” but in all the best Japanese places I’ve been in Tokyo, it’s not actually Japanese music that’s being played. So I have to think very much about it. There’s the KEE heritage, what it’s known for, the location on Wyndham Street and their target clientele. It needs to have a groove to it because of where it is. And it needs to be unique.

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Is your approach scientific, or is it more emotional?

It’s definitely emotional. I differ a lot from my competitors because I treat every project individually. The bigger companies offer a channel or something, and it actually might be the same in other places. But I’d rather keep it more bespoke.

Many of the best dining experiences have an element of surprise but are also comforting and familiar in some way. Are there similarities in a good play list?

Well, there is a bit of a formula there.

I think it is great to be surprised, but with experience I’ve learned you can lose your audience.

What I love doing – and it’s a tip I got listening to [London DJ] Norman Jay years ago – is playing songs out of context. So you know the song, you’ve heard it years ago on the radio as a kid or something, and then you hear it again and think, “I didn’t realize I liked this,” and it’s because it’s a completely different setting.

So it stirs something deep in the memory.

Yeah, I love stirring those emotions.

I think the best desserts stir some deep memory from childhood.

I’m totally with you. For me it’s British desserts that are done really well. The most simple things, but done well. Like custard.

Simple pleasures.

怎样才算是可永续经营？ 有些餐厅有着很酷的主题，令人 欣切期待合作，后来却发现没有合适 的音乐可用。这时候你必须知道自己 下一步是什么。 ​ 况且熟客可能不想每次用餐都听到一 样的音乐吧。 你得经常换新音乐，不然客人很 容易厌烦。重点不仅是时常更换播放 清单，还必须找到微妙的平衡点。音 乐是用餐体验的一部分，但不该喧宾 夺主。你可以拿起食物时听到音乐说：

DAVID HARTUNG

Those are the elements. It’s how the client wants to be perceived, their product and personality setting the tone and mood and making it sustainable.

「噢！好一阵子没听这个了」，但音乐不该 是餐厅的重点，食物才是。

食物风格对你挑选播放清单有什么样的影 响？例如您会替 Koko 餐厅选择哪一种音 乐？ 目前我还犹豫不决，有时候会想「这 是日本餐馆，也有清酒」。但我去过东京很 多家一流餐馆，也不见得都放日本音乐。 所以我还得再想想。这是 KEE 向来标榜的 风格，开在云咸街，也有主要顾客，音乐 最好让人一听能了然于心也能彰显地点， 而且必须有自己的特色。

你是采用科学化手法，抑或跟着感觉走？ 我完全是凭自己的感觉。对于每一次 的音乐策划我都有不同做法。大公司只提 供一些管道，每个地方几乎如法炮制，但 我希望给每个客人与众不同的东西。 愉快的用餐经验可能包含惊喜的元素，但 同时让人感到舒服又熟悉。好的音乐播放 清单也是一样吗？ 其实也算是有公式可循。我想有惊喜固 然很好，但按照以往经验，也可能导致客户 流失。我喜爱根据当下情境选歌，这是几年 前听 Norman Jay（一名伦敦 DJ）播歌时学到

的。就好像你知道一首歌，几年前在广播里 听过，那时年纪可能还很小，现在你又听到 了这首歌，忍不住想「哇，我居然不晓得自 己喜欢这首歌」 ，因为时空背景完全不同了。

所以音乐可以是唤醒记忆深处？ 没错，我喜欢撩拨情绪。 甜点最棒的一点就是唤起童年回忆，是吗？ 这一点我完全赞同。对我来说，美味 的英国甜点就有这种魔力，很简单的东西， 但非常好吃，好比卡士达，一股单纯的愉 悦油然而生。 seasoned with song

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Margareth Henriquez, ​ CEO and President, Krug Champagne

CHAMPAGNE & MUSIC

香槟之声

The Sounds of Champagne Krug Champagne explores the sensually surprising interplay between sound and taste.

BY A S K A S O M M E L I E R what pairs MAMIE CHEN best with Krug Grande Cuvée, and he might suggest a dish redolent PHOTOGRAPHY BY of black truff le to complement DAVID HARTUNG the Champagne’s apple and black cherry aromas, or perhaps delicate butter-poached oysters that wouldn’t overpower the wine’s freshness and elegance. Ask the same thing of Margareth Henriquez, CEO and President of Krug Champagne, and she’s likely to have an entirely different response – like Brahms’ Piano Trio No. 1 in B Major, Op. 8.

For years, Krug has been exploring the relationship between music and its famous Champagnes. “Music pairings” introduce the often-overlooked fifth sense of sound, enhancing and completing the epicurean experience. In 2013, Krug collaborated with Richard Bamping, Principal Cellist of the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, to stage an event that demonstrated how various soundscapes, as well as the high and low pitches of single notes, can evoke distinct taste profiles and make specific flavors more perceptible to the audience.

“It was an enormous success and an experience I’ll never forget,” Henriquez recalls. “Afterwards, it was very easy to convince my team about the project. The platforms for the Krug ID and music app, as well as our invitations for musicians to come to the House to taste the Champagnes and suggest playlists, started after the Hong Kong event.”

Henriquez returned to Hong Kong this year to host a new Krug and Music event with KaJeng Wong, musical prodigy and Artistic Director of Music Lab. Together with four other talented young musicians, Wong immersed guests both literally and metaphorically into the musical lyricism that lies at the heart of the House of Krug.

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若问侍酒师这款 Krug Grande Cuvée 香槟配什么菜最好，答案 会是以黑松露为主轴的菜色，其香味恰好与香槟中的苹果、黑 樱桃芳香相辅相成 ；抑或味道细致的奶油炖生蚝，才不至掩盖 香槟的新鲜及雅致韵味。但同样问题，Krug 香槟品牌主席兼

行政总裁 Margareth Henriquez 却有截然不同的回答 ：就像布 拉姆斯 B 大调第一号钢琴三重奏一样。

Krug 香槟多年来一直在探索音乐及旗下知名佳酿之间的 关联性。「乐酒搭配于餐饮过程中，导入时常受到忽略的第五 感－听觉，让飨宴更加尽善尽美。2013 年，Krug 和香港管弦 乐团大提琴首席鲍力卓 (Richard Bamping) 合作，在活动中展 现不同音场、单音的高低音调对味觉可能产生的特殊影响，让 人对多种特定的味道感受更加强烈。 「活动大为成功， Henriquez 想及当时盛况仍语带兴奋 ： 也是我永难忘怀的体验。活动过后，说服团队投入相关计画也 变得顺理成章。香港体验场后我们打造 Krug ID 及音乐应用程 式 app 平台，也邀请音乐家来香港品评旗下品牌香槟、建议 搭配曲目。 」 总裁今年再次回到香港，主持新的 Krug 香槟及音乐盛宴， 合作的音乐家也是一​​时之选－音乐天才及音乐团体 Music Lab 艺术总监黄家正。黄家正与其他四位才华洋溢的青年音乐家携 手，让满场宾客或体验、或想像，沉浸在充满诗意的乐音之中， 体验顶级名庄 Krug 香槟的核心精神。

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KRUG HAS ALWAYS PLACED SPECIAL VALUE on embracing the specific characters of wines from small plots around the fragmented region of Champagne. “We listen to every single plot as if it were a musician,” says Henriquez, allegorizing the Clos du Mesnil and Clos d’Ambonnay single vineyard vintage cuvées, the Krug Vintage, and the Grande Cuvée. “Sometimes we can find soloists. When nature allows, we create the music of a single year. And every year we recreate the fullest, richest performances of the music of Champagne.”

The Krug 2003 vintage shares the exceptional story of a year marked by unusually dry weather, devastating frosts, scorching heat, and the earliest and longest harvest since 1822. By respecting the distinct expressions of individual plots, Krug was able to identify over- and under-maturation in them and to boldly move forward in creating a 2003 vintage. The result was a luminous Champagne filled with such élan that they named it Vivacious Radiance.

Wong’s unique harp and harmonica arrangement for Piazzolla’s “Café 1930” was a mesmerizing tribute to Krug’s audacious decision, and his second selection, Piazzolla’s sensual and flashy Libertango , beautifully captured the vintage’s passion and effulgence, powerful deep tones from the saxophone extending the persistence of Krug’s Champagne.

“This is the special music of 2003, which our chef de caves was able to capture in a bottle to be discovered today,” says Henriquez.

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「我们把每一小区当音乐家一般认 Henriquez 形 容 ： 真倾听。 」边说边举 Clos du Mesnil、单一葡萄园香槟 Clos d’Ambonnay、Krug Vintage 及 Grande Cuvée 等 名品香槟为例。 「有时可以找到独奏家，在自然风土允 许的条件下，能创造每一年专属的音乐。年年上演香 槟最极致、最丰富的乐音表演。 」

2003 年香槟代表的是极为不凡的一年，体现在这 一年中罕见的干燥气候、毁灭性的霜害、炙人热浪以 及 1822 年以来最早也最长的收成期。本着尊重各小区 独特风格的传统，Krug 酒庄对其熟成程度的「过与不 及」了若指掌，也毫无所惧，酿造了 2003 年的顶级佳 酿，富含所谓「饱满色泽」的耀眼光芒。 黄家正用竖琴及口琴巧妙编排演奏阿根廷探戈音 ，是 乐大师 Piazzolla 的「30 年代咖啡馆 (Café 1930)」 对 Krug 香槟大胆果敢的一份迷人敬意 ；第二曲目则选 ，与 择大师充满感官刺激的「自由探戈 (Libertango)」 Krug 佳酿富含热情及光彩的特质不谋而合，充满力道 的萨克斯風深沉音色则有如 Krug 香槟韵致一般悠长迷 「这是属于 2003 年的特别乐音， 人。Henriquez 表示 ： 由酒窖总监特别挑选，在今日绽放醉人香韵。 」

CHAMPAGNE & MUSIC

At Causeway Bay’s Soundwill Plaza II, guests stepping from the lift were transported to an underground speakeasy by an evocative stage setting and then spellbound by the musical lyricism of artistic director and pianist KaJeng Wong, cellist Artem Konstantinov, harpist Jennifer Ho, harmonicist Gordon Lee, and saxophonist Timothy Sun. 铜锣湾金朝阳中心二期广场，宾客步出电梯，复古舞台映入眼 帘，仿若置身禁酒令时期的非法地下酒吧，沉浸在艺术总监及 钢琴家黄家正、大提琴家康雅谈(Artem Konstantinov)、竖琴 家何乐文( Jennifer Ho)、口琴家李俊乐(Gordon Lee)及萨克斯 風手孙颖麟(Timothy Sun)带来的抒情乐音。

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纵情声食

Singing & Digesting One of Italy’s great composers has been immortalized by both of his great passions.

GIOACHINO ROSSINI claimed to have been moved to

罗西尼 (Gioachino Rossini) 宣称他一生只哭

tears only three times in his life: in utter misery over the

过三次，第一次是十八岁那年发表首部歌剧，

failure of his debut opera at age eighteen, in rapture at the

结果一败涂地 ；第二次是因为聆听小提琴家

playing of violin virtuoso Niccolò Paganini, and in abject

帕格尼尼 (Niccolò Paganini) 的演奏，而狂

despair as his favorite indulgence, turkey stuffed with

喜不已 ；第三次是在船上野餐，不慎把他最

truffles, tumbled overboard during a boating party lunch.

爱的松露烤鸡掉进河里，让他失望透顶。

His appetite for haute cuisine was such that the

身材福态的罗西尼是个懂得享受生活之

portly bon vivant became nearly as well known around

人，他非常爱吃高级料理，出色厨艺和美食

Bologna and Paris as an accomplished home cook and devoted epicure as for his prolific output of operas. The popular aria “Di tanti

•

的歌剧作品《唐克瑞迪》(Tancredi)

palpiti” from his opera Tancredi became more

ILLUSTRATIONS BY

有首著名的咏叹调，名为《我充

affectionately known as l’aria dei risi , the rice

REBEKAH NICHOLS

满激情》(Di Tanti Palpiti)，不过 大家喜欢把它叫做「饭的咏叹调」

sat down in a Venetian inn, ordered risotto, and composed

(l’aria dei risi,)，因为相传，他有天到一家在

the piece in the time it took to cook the dish.

威尼斯的店坐下来点了烩饭，然后就在等待

Master chefs around Europe competed for the great

上菜的空档中写出了这首咏叹调。

man’s patronage, creating new dishes in his honor and

欧洲各地的厉害厨师都抢着邀请罗西尼

keeping tables at their restaurants reserved exclusively

光顾，或为他设计新菜，并在自家餐厅特别

for him. Their high regard was reciprocated by Rossini,

保留一张给他专用的桌子。厨师们的厚爱

who took delight in befriending “i più famosi chef del continente,” the most famous chefs in Europe.

Today, countless dishes “alla Rossini” can be found in cookbooks and on restaurant menus around the world.

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他丰富的歌剧作品一样出名。他

MAMIE CHEN

aria, because, according to legend, he one day

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品味在波隆那和巴黎一带，就跟

BY

获得罗西尼的热情回报，他喜欢四处结交 「欧洲最知名的厨师」(i più famosi chef del continente)。 时至今日，世界各地的食谱和餐厅菜单

Some authentically preserve the original recipes, others

可以找到无数以「罗西尼」(alla Rossini) 为

are modern interpretations. Many showcase Rossini’s

名的菜肴，有些保留原始做法，有些以现代

favorite ingredients of Périgord truffles, foie gras, and

手法重新诠释，其中许多都用了罗西尼最爱

Madeira wine, but all of them possess those richly

的食材 ：佩里哥黑松露、鹅肝和马德拉酒，

opulent qualities that characterize the maestro’s tastes in

而它们共同的特色是华丽丰富，这是一代大

food as well as music.

师的美食品味，也是他的音乐特质。

TK | SEASONED WITH SONG

FOOD & MUSIC

seasoned with song

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Cannelloni alla Rossini 罗西尼面卷

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FOOD & MUSIC

“THE STOMACH IS THE CONDUCTOR, who rules the

「胃是指挥，主宰我们的欲望，让这

grand orchestra of our passions and rouses it to

个盛大的乐团动起来， 」罗西尼曾用

action,” Rossini once suggested, drawing a fanciful

这么一个奇特的比喻关联食欲与音

analogy between appetite and music. “The bassoon

乐。 「饥饿感来袭，巴松笛或短笛都

or the piccolo, grumbling its discontent or shrilling its

咕哝着它的不满足，试图尖声嘶喊出

longing, personify the empty stomach for me. The

它的渴望，把饥饿的胃比拟成活生生

stomach, replete, on the other hand, is the triangle of

的人。相反地，一旦吃饱了，满足的

enjoyment or the kettledrum of joy… Eating, loving,

胃则像是欢乐的三角铁或喜悦的定音

singing, and digesting are, in truth, the four acts of the

鼓 … 吃、爱、歌唱和消化 , 实为生命

comic opera known as life.”

这出喜歌剧必定上演的四幕。 」

It‘s little wonder that nineteenth century French

难怪十九世纪法国漫画家常会

caricaturists seized upon his second passion and

抓住他爱吃的特点，他们笔下的罗

frequently depicted him, not with an instrument or

西尼往往不拿乐器和乐谱，而是手

sheets of music in hand, but with the silver pastry tube

持银色挤花嘴，把松露泥挤到与他

he used to inject the truffle purée into his namesake

同名的面卷上。

cannelloni.

罗西尼四十出头就宣布不再创

Once he had retired from opera composition at the

作歌剧，并开始纵情美食，经常在

unusually early age of forty, Rossini began indulging his

他位于安坦堤道 (Chaussée d’Antin)

gastronomic inclinations by hosting musical soirées at

的宅邸或巴黎郊外帕西 (Passy) 的

his house in the Chaussée d’Antin or at his villa in Passy

别墅，举办音乐晚会，会中除了演

outside Paris. In addition to performing his own musical

奏自创的音乐作品之外，他还会以

pieces, he sought to impress his friends, particularly

华丽的盛宴让友人惊艳，特别是来

those in the culinary world, with sumptuous feasts that

自美食界的朋友，宴席经常出现他

often featured his latest dishes. Tradition holds that he

精心研发的新菜。一般认为那些以

himself created the famous cannelloni that bears his

他为名的菜肴都是他的创作。这些

name. The original dish, unlike lighter modern versions

菜肴的原始做法都是大量使用松露

stuffed with pork, veal, and chicken, contained a truly

和鹅肝，如今则多改用猪肉，牛肉、

decadent filling of truffles and foie gras.

鸡肉等相对平实的食材。

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Tournedos alla Rossini 罗西尼牛排

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FOOD & MUSIC

THE STORY OF THE ORIGIN of tournedos alla Rossini

罗西尼牛排的起源众说纷纭，其中一

is fraught with controversy. In one unlikely anecdote,

个似是而非的传闻是，罗西尼在巴黎

Rossini is said to have relentlessly pestered the chef

英国咖啡馆 (Café Anglais) 的厨师帮

preparing his meal at the Café Anglais in Paris until

他准备牛排的时候，一直在旁边烦他，

the man finally expressed his exasperation. Rossini

最后厨师终于发火，罗西尼竟厚脸皮

cheekily replied “et alors, tournez le dos ,” meaning,

地说 ： 「et alors, tournez le dos」，意

“well then, turn your back.”

思是「那好，你转过身去」。

Any one of several renowned chefs – Carême,

好几个有名的厨师，像是卡瑞蒙

Moissons, or Escoffier – might have honored Rossini

(Carême)、马松斯 (Moissons) 或爱斯

with such a dish. But some say that if Carême had

克菲尔 (Escoffier)​​， 都可能以罗西尼

created it, he would have taken credit in one of his

之名为这道料理命名。但有人说，如

cookbooks. And although Escoffier probably never

果真是卡瑞蒙发明了这道菜，他会放

cooked for Rossini, he does include a recipe for it

进自己的食谱。虽然爱斯克菲尔可能

in his later cookbook, but without fanfare, merely

从来没为罗西尼做过菜，但他确实把

listing it as number 2380. Many put their money on

这道料理放进他后来出版的食谱，尽

Moissons, chef at La Maison Dorée, who may have

管 没 有 非 常 高 调， 只 是 把 它 列 在 了

created the dish to outdo the famous steak named

第 2380 道。 很 多 人 压 宝 La Maison

for the Vicomte de Chateaubriand that Rossini so

Dorée 的厨师马松斯，他可能为了比

admired.

下罗西尼非常爱吃的夏多布里昂牛排

As the most iconic of the dishes named for the composer, tournedos alla Rossini was often the pièce

( 以夏多布里昂子爵为名 )，而创作了 这道佳肴。

de résistance at haute cuisine dinners of the time.

罗西尼牛排是以这位作曲家为名

A thick steak cut from filet of beef was perfectly

的料理中最具代表性的一道，当时经

roasted and served on croutons sautéed in butter.

常是高级料理晚餐的主菜。厚厚的菲

Topped with foie gras d’oie pan-seared in beurre

力牛排经过完美烘烤，搭配以奶油炒

noissette and adorned with slices of black Périgord

香的面包丁，放上焦黄奶油煎过的鹅

truffles, it was finished with a Madeira and truffle

肝，饰以佩里哥黑松露片，最后淋上

demi-glace.

马德拉酒和松露酱。

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Macaroni Soup alla Rossini 罗西尼通心粉汤

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FOOD & MUSIC

AN ITALIAN OPERA COMPOSER with an all-consuming

对美食有着无限热情的意大利歌剧作

passion for food and a French chef who dearly loved

曲家罗西尼，和钟爱音乐的法国名厨

music – it was nothing short of poetic destiny that

卡瑞蒙 (Antonin Carême)，这两位不

Gioachino Rossini and Antonin Carême, two leading

同领域的大师有天相遇并成为最要好

masters of their respective professions, should one

的朋友，可说是种戏剧性的安排，卡

day meet and become the best of friends. Carême

瑞 蒙 甚 至 说 罗 西 尼 是 他「 唯 一 的 知

even referred to Rossini as “the only man who ever

音」。

understood me.”

两位大师经常交换彼此的艺术作

They often exchanged tokens of their arts:

品 ：在波隆那，卡瑞蒙给了罗西尼精

Carême sent a game pâté to Rossini in Bologna, and

心制作的肉冻派 (pâté)，罗西尼则以

Rossini composed short songs and arias for the chef

创作短曲和抒情调当作回礼。而卡瑞

in return. But it was Carême who would immortalize

蒙的一项举动使他们的友谊永垂不

their friendship by naming many of his now-famous

朽 ：他以挚友的名字来为几道今日相

dishes, such as his stuffed turkey alla Rossini, after

当著名的料理命名，罗西尼填馅火鸡

the maestro.

即是一例。

Unlike most dishes bearing his name, macaroni

不同于许多以罗西尼为名的料

soup alla Rossini has nary a truffle nor a particle

理，罗西尼通心粉汤里既没有松露，

of foie gras in sight, but it is no less sumptuous,

也没有半点鹅肝，却一点也不失华丽，

especially in its elaborate presentation. Partridge

这道菜的呈现方式更是精致得无可挑

quenelles and Neapolitan macaroni are poached

剔。松鸡肉丸和那不勒斯通心粉被放

in partridge stock and then sautéed with partridge

置在松鸡汤底里烹煮，再与松鸡泥一

purée. Then the quenelles, the macaroni, and

同拌炒。肉丸、通心粉和帕玛森起司

Parmesan cheese are laid in alternating layers in a

接着被一层层叠在淋满通心粉汤及汤

silver tureen and sprinkled with macaroni broth and

料的银色汤盅上。卡瑞蒙在他其中一

stock. In one of his cookbooks, Carême triumphantly

本食谱中写着，当他把这道菜献给好

dedicated the dish to his friend, proclaiming, “This is

友时，他说 ： 「这是一道配得上伟大

a recipe worthy of the great gourmet-musician.”

音乐美食家的料理。」

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ESSAY

飨食之乐

Suite Gastronomique Shakespeare wrote of music as the food of love, but research shows it has just as much to do with the love of food.

BY JANE RAM

SEASONED WITH SONG | TK | TASTE, HEARING AND TOUCH, 1618 (OIL ON PANEL), BRUEGHEL , JAN THE ELDER (1568-1625) / PRADO, MADRID, SPAIN / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

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p r e l u d e Both Chinese and French gourmets may claim that we eat first with the eyes, then the nose, and finally the mouth, but science is attempting to prove that we eat and drink first with the ears.

AT

the most basic level, music and medicine), but today the emphasis is increasingly on ways of exploiting background music to control the mood – and the wallet – in supermarkets, stores, and music, careespecially restaurants and bars. fully selected Music as a tool of manipulation is nothing new. French author and played at the Jacques Attali, in his 1976 book Noise: The Political Economy of Music, proper volume, is contends that music, money, and power are tightly interlinked and able to boost the profits of restaurants that throughout history ruthless leaders have employed music as a and bars by encourmeans of control. As far back as the ninth century, Attlai writes, the aging patrons to stay emperor Charlemagne enforced the practice of Gregorian chant “to longer and spend money forge the cultural and political unity of his kingdom.” more freely. It also helps to control customer traffic 中式和法式美食皆宣称，世人对菜式的品味欣赏，先 and speed up dining times, freeing tables for additional 是用眼睛，再是鼻子和嘴巴，但科学试图要证明耳 seatings.

Many establishments 朵才是最先品尝到佳肴的感官。 use music to attract customers 在古希腊神话中，阿波罗为主管音乐与医 in a target age group, while at the 药之神，因而自古以来，音乐也被视为一种疗 same time suggesting to others that 方。时至今日，亦可看到越来越多超市、商店、 they will probably be more comforta餐厅和酒吧利用音乐来掌控顾客的情绪以 ble elsewhere.

Paul Kwok, CEO 1957 & Co. Group, 及荷包。 maintains that the quality of the food is the 音乐作为一种操控手段绝非新意。 obvious essential in any restaurant. “Then 法国前总统密特朗的顾问阿塔利在他 we must look at what makes the difference,” 1976 年出版的《噪音 ：音乐的政 he says. Famous for his meticulous atten治经济学》一书里头，主张音乐、 tion to detail, from specially commissioned 金钱和权力这三者是环环相扣 pottery to nuances in presentation and service, Kwok delegates nothing when it comes 的密切关系。综观历史，残 to the choice of music for the group’s res酷的领导者也利用音乐作 taurants. “Lighting, air conditioning, music, 为一种控制的手段。阿塔 each plays a part in making a place enticing. 里在书中写道，回溯至 If I’m going to stay somewhere for ninety Since ancient times music has been used as therapy (Apollo was god of both

九世纪，查理曼大帝 强制推广格雷戈里 圣咏，「以缔造帝 国文化与政治

theme and variations

统一」。

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若能精心选出背景音乐、以适当音量播放，确实 可让顾客久留并更随心所欲的消费，既能增加收 益，更能帮助控制客流量及加快用餐时间、提高 翻桌率。许多店家用音乐去吸引特定年龄层的顾 客，同时提醒其他客群或许别处更适合他们。 1957 & Co. 集团行政总裁郭志波坚持，餐点 品质绝对是餐厅最不可或缺的，他也提到「我们 要发现各自的差异」 。郭志波以注重细节而闻名， 从餐厅里的特订陶器、呈现方式到服务的细微末 节，都巨细靡遗 ；而当谈到集团餐厅店内音乐的 挑选时，郭志波则毫无头绪。「照明、空调、音 乐，每个元素都影响着餐厅的魅力，如果我将在 某地待上一个半小时或更久，不想感到太冷或太 热，光线也不该太亮，但必须能看清菜单。音乐 的确很重要，它营造出私密空间，影响我们对环 境的观感，同时软化空间中清晰的边缘和冷酷的 外表。吵杂环境里他人的对话可能会对你造成影 响，但背景音乐可以免除在闹街狂吼般的感觉。 」 郭志波承认自己的音乐哲学并没有规则可循。 对在元朗形点商场 (Yoho Mall) 里新开幕的越南 餐厅「安南 (An Nam)」来说，郭志波知道他要 的是哪种氛围。「我从越南带回 CD，听完后挑了 几张整合为长达数小时的南亚音乐播放清单、悠 逸轻松、非艺文也非过于正式，我想要把音乐做

minutes or more, I don’t want to be too cold or too hot, it should not be too bright, but I do need to be able to read the menu. The music is important – it affects perception of the environment, creates the illusion of privacy, softens hard edges and hard surfaces.

In a busy place other people’s conversations can be intrusive, but background music prevents the sensation of shouting in a wet market.”

Kwok admits he has no solid evidence for his theories about music, that he just follows his instincts. For An Nam, his new Vietnamese restaurant in Yuen Long’s Yoho Mall, Kwok knew the kind of ambience he wanted. “I brought back a big stack of CDs from Vietnam, listened and selected tracks, combining them into hours of music to create a South Asian atmosphere – laid back, not too ‘artistic’ or ‘serious.’ I wanted to make the music unintimidating but not too relaxing. The only thing the manager must do is adjust the volume – louder at lunchtime, softer at night when people want to chat.”

Nelson Chow, Programme Manager of catering and wine at Hong Kong’s Hotel and Tourism Institute, explains, “Music is the best way to keep the diners from being embarrassed by silence when conversation 的不那么强烈、但也不要太放松。店经理唯一要 做的就是调整音量，午餐时间调大声点，夜晚客 人想聊天时，就调成柔和音量。 」 香港职业训练局餐饮部课程经理周国明解释 ： 「音乐是一种完美调剂，能避免用餐者在交谈后 因突然安静而产生的尴尬，但音量要适中，以免 用餐者须提高音量来说话。餐饮人士鲜少考量到 音乐是可以影响用餐时长、或用餐多寡的一个角 色，他们比较常用营运的观点去关切使用某种音 乐而产生的费用。 」 香港半岛酒店餐饮部总监曾清源了解他的餐 厅据点和客群。他把音乐称之为「用餐旅程」 「音 ： 乐促使客人停留更久、点更多饮料，但我没有 数据可以证明这个。 」所有酒店餐厅都配有连续 播放的音乐，但有时候这只是用来填充乐团表演 之间的空档。直到最近，酒店从 CD 下载音乐到 iPod，但音质不稳定，而且员工必须一直调整音 量。曾清源说 ： 「自 2012 年起，我们一直使用澳 洲 Muld 音乐公司准备的背景音乐，可连续播放 一周且不重复，费用不贵，每个餐厅每月大概花 费港币 700 元 ；但硬体设备则需一次性投入大 笔资金。就我个人而言，我喜欢现场音乐，表演 者跟顾客有互动，依据现场气氛改变音乐风格。 」 Christoph Travniczek 是香港洲际酒店餐饮部 高级经理，他评论 ： 「未来餐厅经理要能正确评 估现场氛围并做适当调整。但我毕竟不是挑音乐 的人，就像挑葡萄酒是需要专业的。我只知道， 就连圣诞节音乐都在变，Frank Sinatra 不一定适 合每个场合！当我们有现场乐队时，肯定希望他 们带来额外的收入，而我也能衡量他们能吸引到 多少来客量。我们跟 Musicstyling 有签订背景音 乐的合约，他们会不断更新音乐内容，并且熟悉 目前东京、巴黎和纽约的趋势。 」 Dean Morris’s Luca 是香港的背景音乐供应商，

dries up, but the sound level should be right so that diners don’t need to raise their voices when they speak. F&B professionals seldom consider the role music can play in encouraging diners to stay longer or eat more. They’re usually more concerned about the cost of using a particular type of music from the operational point of view.”

Kevin Tsang, Director of Food & Beverage at The Peninsula Hong Kong, knows both his outlets and the clientele. He views music as an important part of what he calls “the dining journey.” “Music encourages guests to stay longer and order more drinks,” he says, “but I don’t have numbers to prove this.”

All of the hotel’s outlets are equipped with piped-in music, but it is sometimes used only to fill in between band sets. Until recently, the hotel downloaded its music from CD to iPod, but sound quality was often inconsistent and the staff had to constantly adjust the volume. “Since 2012,” says Tsang, “we have been using the Australian company Muld Music to prepare a compilation which runs for about a week without repetition. The monthly charge is not so expensive, about HKD700 per month per outlet. But the hardware required investment of a big lump sum. Personally, I like live music – performers interact with guests, respond to requests, and judge the mood of the venue and change the music accordingly.”

Christoph Travniczek is Executive Assistant Manager, F&B at InterContinental Hong Kong. He comments, “Restaurant managers of the future will only be successful if they can assess the atmosphere correctly and complement it. I make sure it happens, but I’m not the person selecting the music – it’s like picking wines, an expert science.

All I know is that even Christmas music is changing and Frank Sinatra might not work anymore. When we have live bands, I definitely expect them to bring in additional dollars, and I measure the crowd they

拥有超过一百个客户，包括 Dining Concepts 饮 食 集 团 、 伽 雅 集 团（Gaia Group） 、Harland 和 悦榕庄酒店及度假村。他说 ： 「虽然不是做科学 研究的，但我们尤其在酒吧里发现某些节拍和节 奏，特别适合在某些时段播放。我们提供普罗大 众可接受的音乐，一张张专辑无缝接轨地播放， 也串起一段段不同的情绪。我们根据合约更新内 容，通常是一个月一次。顾客很少听到同样的曲 目重复播放，因为播放顺序是被混合和编辑过的。 但我们坚持每天同一时间根据同个节奏 (beats per minute, BPM) 播放音乐，这样可以让顾客感

draw. We have a contract with Musicstyling for piped music. They update according to season, time of day, and festivals. They know what’s in in Tokyo, Paris, and New York.”

Dean Morris’s Luca is unique as Hong Kong-based supplier of background music to more than a hundred clients, including Dining Concepts, Gaia Group, Harland, and Banyan Tree. “We’re not into scientific research,” he says, “but, especially in bars, we find certain beats and grooves go best at certain times of day. We supply generic music that flows seamlessly from track to track, mood to mood. We update according to the contract, but it’s usually once a month.

It would be rare for a customer to hear the same track twice, since the sequence is mixed and shuffled. But we stick to the same BPM, beats per minute, at the same time of day, because we know it helps people feel more comfortable, energetic, or excited. We avoid vocals during mealtimes so that people can talk. Clients rarely supply much in the way of guidelines, except to tell us the broad classification of the restaurant, the look, the type of food, and the hours. To get a feel of the place, we take a look, soak up the ambience, have a few glasses of wine and taste the pasta or whatever.”

While an Italian restaurant usually means Italian tunes and an Indian place features sitars or the latest Bollywood hits, the sound is more generic at London House, the Gordon Ramsay gastropub opened by Dining Concepts in late September. “We stayed

到更闲逸自在或兴奋欢乐。在顾客用餐时，我们 则避免有歌声，让人们可以对谈。顾客很少提供 建议，多是分享餐厅状况，建筑外观，餐点类型 以及用餐时间等等。 」 一家意大利餐厅通常会播放意大利曲调融合 印度地方特色的西塔琴，或是最新的宝莱坞流行 曲，而九月下旬由 Gordon Ramsay 所开的新酒 吧 London House ，播的音乐则是走大众路线。 「我们没采用英式摇滚和英国乐团， Morris 说道 ： 因为大部分顾客都是年轻中国人，他们可能根本 不认识谁是披头四或滚石乐团。 」 雅高大中华区奢华及高端品牌高级营运副总 裁 Michel Molliet 表示，酒店、酒吧和餐厅很重 视环境里的所有面向 ： 「他们都提供绝佳氛围， 合适照明，家具，摆饰，和友善资深的服务人 员 ；大多时候，音乐是被忽视的。针对高档市场 的索菲特大酒店而言，音乐被称为『品牌放大镜』 的核心，是可透过其奢华特质强化法式风格的一 个要素。我们利用音乐打造『无限精彩的时刻』 。 在不同时刻，场馆里都有各式音乐打造不同氛围， 包括整个酒店大厅、酒吧、餐厅、俱乐部和水疗 中 心 等。 我 们 与 Musicstyling 合 作， 使 用 电 脑 音乐系统，一半是法文歌，包括古典乐，其他则 是世界音乐选集，成为索菲特之声的象征。根据 l’esprit français 超越特定位置的特性，音乐确实 提高了顾客的整体体验。 」

away from Britpop and British bands,” says Morris. “Most of the customers are young Chinese and many don’t know who the Beatles or the Rolling Stones might be.”

Michel Molliet, Senior Vice President, Luxury and Upscale, Greater China at Accor, notes that hotels, bars, and restaurants take every aspect of their environment into consideration: “They do all to provide a beautiful ambience with the right lighting, furniture, décor, and friendly, experienced staff – all too often music is overlooked. But music is at the heart of what our upmarket Sofitel calls ‘brand magnifiers,’ elements to augment the general feeling of French identity throughout its luxury properties. We create ‘magnifique moments’ through music. There’s different music creating different atmospheres at different times of day in each venue throughout the hotel – lobby, bars, restaurants, Executive Club and Spa. We use a computerized audio system in partnership with Musicstyling. Half the titles are French, including classics, the remainder are world music selections which epitomize the ‘Sofitel sound.’ Based on l’esprit français that transcends specific location, the music enhances the guest’s total experience.”

At the Mira Hotel, Hong Kong, “Music is a highly conceptual part of the dining experience,” maintains Director of Food and Beverage Somik Banerjee. “We want music to surround guests in a comfortable way.

It’s part of our overall design and aesthetic, and patrons should feel it suits their mood.

If we get it right, it definitely encourages repeat business. Some venues, when only half full, have an awkward feeling without music. Musicstyling helps us choose tracks and work them around the restaurants, taking into account ceiling height, design, and other factors.”

The Mira Hong Kong 餐 饮 部 总 监 Somik 「音乐是用餐经验中一个高深的 Banerjee 提到 ： 概念，用舒适的音乐围绕顾客，是我们整体设计 和美学的一部分，希望让顾客觉得适合当下的心 情。如果我们掌握到位，顾客会再次光临。在 没有客满的时候，少了音乐反而会觉得不自在。 Musicstyling 替我们考量如餐厅天花板高度和设 计等要素，然后协助挑选出最适合的音乐。 」以 往主打名厨云集、现强调重视食材的 Whisk 餐 厅也表示， 音乐扮演着重要角色。Banerjee 说道： 「这里的音乐少了正式、多了爵士风，顾客可用 脚打拍子。用餐模式经调整后使翻桌率变高，每 晚可接待两轮顾客。如果音乐更轻松舒适，顾客 就会想待更久。 」

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regularly reports loud noise as the second most frequent complaint about restaurants, behind poor service and ahead of high prices and crowds. Volume control can effec-

i n t e r m e z z o

Zagat’s American Dining Survey

新开幕的香港餐厅「MyHouse」配置个人转盘和耳机， 让顾客自由地享有属于自己的音乐氛围。 § A new Hong Kong restaurant called MyHouse has individual turntables and earphones so customers can create their own musical ambience.

tively zone a restaurant – young and trendy customers are seated close to the

both positive and negative responses. Not

美国用餐研究指南 Zagat 报导中指出，对餐厅而

entrance where the music is loudest and older

surprisingly, fast music encourages fast eating,

言，吵杂噪音是仅次于劣质服务的常见抱怨之一，

ones are steered toward a quieter zone at the

while slow music has the opposite effect.

仅赢过昂贵价格和过多人潮等负面因素。 透过

back.

And if you’re comfortable with the music,

音量控制可明显区分出，餐厅空间中年轻时髦的

Over recent decades, academics in the

you’ll almost certainly judge the food more

客群通常会坐在音乐响亮的入口处，而年长的客

US, UK, and Australia have carried out numer-

enjoyable. If the music is not to your liking,

ous studies examining the effects of various

you will probably feel less satisfied with

categories of music – classical, jazz, pop –

the quality, even though the two meals are

on restaurant patrons’ moods and on their

identical. A customer’s age alters perceptions:

evaluation of the food. Results have revealed

louder, upbeat music appeals most to patrons

不同类别的音乐，对于餐厅顾客心情的影响和对

similar patterns in all three countries: if diners

under forty; those older are more likely to be

餐点的评比。结果显示，这三个国家皆有类似的

and drinkers are comfortable with the music,

comfortable with classical and easy-listening

模式 ：如果音乐让餐酒顾客感到放松，他们就会

they stay longer and spend around 30 percent

music. And these preferences definitely affect

停留更长的时间，且多消费约 30 ％。在香港或

more than otherwise. It seems no such studies

customers’ assessment of the food.

亚洲其他地方似乎尚未有类似研究，尽管如此，

have yet been undertaken in Hong Kong or

But before ordering a double portion

群则会选择较安静的位置。 近十几​​年 来，美国、英国和澳洲学者进行 了大量的研究，检视古典乐，爵士乐或流行乐等

调查结果在显示这将成为下一波的新趋势。

elsewhere in Asia, but the findings neverthe-

of silence with the main course, one should

即使只是背景音乐，任何类型的音乐都能够

less indicate the way things are likely to go.

consider the surprising discovery that most

激发多元复杂的情绪反应。英国莱斯特大学心理

Even when used as background, any type

diners describe the experience in a restaurant

of music is capable of stimulating complex

without music as “very noisy.” It seems that

reactions. Dr. Adrian North, Senior Lecturer in

the rattle of dishes and cutlery, kitchen racket,

Psychology at the University of Leicester (UK),

and the foot traffic of service staff need to be

remarks, “When you hear classical music, it

masked in some way for maximum enjoyment

has all sorts of connotations of sophistication,

of the food. Research generally shows that

「当你听到古 系资深讲师 Adrian North 博士提出 ： 典音乐时，它的优雅、富裕和丰盈的韵味，仿佛 让你提升了几分奢华感。在餐厅里，这样的效果 会让你愿意在前菜、甜点和咖啡等付出额外消费。 」 音乐类别、节奏和音量皆可引起正反两面

affluence, and wealth and it makes you feel a

quiet classical music with a hint of background

的回应。很明显的，快节奏的音乐可加快用餐速

bit posh. In a restaurant, this has the effect of

chatter makes food taste best for the majority

度，而节奏缓慢的音乐则是相反效果。如果音乐

making you spend a bit more money on luxury

of people, provided the volume is within the

让你感到自在，你会更享受餐点。如果音乐不对

items, such as starters, desserts, and coffees.”

narrow band between sixty-two and sixty-

你的味，即使是同样的餐点，你可能会感到不满

seven decibels.

意。不同年龄层的顾客，偏好也不同 ：四十岁以

Genre, tempo, and volume can all evoke

下的顾客，通常喜好响亮且愉快的音乐，年长者 则倾向古典和悦耳舒适的音乐，而这些偏好会直 接影响顾客对餐点的评价。

McDonalds plays music at varied volume and pace throughout the day. They actively employ music to control customer traffic, and the right tempo also helps to keep staff energized and motivated.

§

Starbucks takes its music very seriously. The company has long had

在进入点菜之前出现的那份沉重安静，让 我们有了新发现，就是大多数顾客提到，在没有 音乐的餐厅里用餐时， 反而感到环境「非常嘈杂」 。 如此看来，菜肴和餐具的碰撞声、厨房吵杂声， 服务人员匆忙的脚步声等，都需要以某种方式来 掩饰，以提升享受美食的美好体验。研究普遍指

an in-house team of professionals who handpick the music played in

出，轻柔的古典背景音乐、音量控制在 62 和 67

§ 麦当劳在一天当中会播放不同音量与节奏的音乐。

分贝之间，夹杂着顾客的呢喃絮语，最能使大多

its stores.

他们积极运用音乐控制客流量；适宜的节奏也有助于维持员工的 活力与热情。 § 星巴克非常重视播放的音乐。长期以来，内部 的专业音乐团队会负责挑选店内专属的音乐曲目。

数人好好享受美食。

DOLLARS AND CENTS is one practical measure of the impact of music. But research into the multisensory aspects of dining is exploring more abstract ground. Charles Spence, Professor of Experimental Psychology at the University of Oxford, has proven that every aspect of a meal – from the color, texture, and shape of the plate to background music and the chewing sounds made by fellow diners – will affect an individual’s dining experience. Spence heads Oxford’s Crossmodal Research Laboratory, which studies the way senses work together. His major awards include the Experimental Psychology Society Prize and an Ig Nobel Prize in 2008 for his work outlined in a journal article he coauthored, “The Role of Auditory Cues in Modulating the Perceived Crispness and Staleness of Potato Chips.”

The Ig Nobel Prize is awarded for improbable-sounding research that makes people first laugh, then think. And laugh as they will, Spence is taken seriously by some of the biggest names in the food industry.

He is a consultant to major companies like Starbucks, for which he helped develop a music soundtrack intended to complement consumption of its coffee. He has worked with celebrity chefs Ferran Adrià and Heston Blumenthal, both of whom believe that enjoyment of food involves every one of the senses. Spence helped Blumenthal perfect one of his most famous menu items, Sound of the Sea, a platter of seafood accompanied by an iPod that lets diners listen to crashing waves and other aquatic sounds while they eat. The overwhelming critical verdict is that the sound effects definitely add extra enjoyment to the taste experience.

Spence’s current area of food research is synesthesia, a phenomenon in which stimulation of one sense leads to automatic response in another. He has discovered that high-pitched sounds intensify sweetness, while low-pitched sounds enhance bitter and umami flavors. Based on this information, experiences can be designed in which various types of music or soundscapes are played to diners or drinkers while they are tasting.

“We’re able to show that we can change the experience in the mouth by about 5 percent to 10 percent,” he says. Spence’s team has been working on what he calls “sonic seasoning,” in which composers and sound designers employ the results of taste tests to craft aural experiences that pair precisely with taste experiences.

c o d a

m i n u e t

a n d

t r i o

Molecular gastronomy and similar techniques adapted from the chemistry lab may soon seem old-fashioned as the next generation of chefs and scientists take our five senses in new directions, experimenting with our minds as well as our mouths and ears. The fact that most Hong Kongers seem to wear headphones 24/7 may at least provide some degree of protection against the worst excesses of sonic manipulation. § 分子美食

及化学实验室里改造的类似技术可能已显过时，因为年轻世代的 厨师和科学家，利用心智及口耳进行试验，将提升我们的五感体验达 到新的境界。事实上，多数香港人一天都戴着耳机，以提供 某种程度的保护，防止遭受过度的声波干扰。

音乐造成的影响中，「收入」是最实际的衡 量方式，而研究用餐的多重感官面向，也 进入更深层的探讨。牛津大学实验心理学 教授 Charles Spence，从一窥餐盘的颜色、 质感和形状，到背景音乐和顾客们咀嚼的 声音，证明出餐点的所有面向皆会影响个 人的用餐经验。 Spence 教授带领牛津大学 跨通道实验室 (Crossmodal Research Laboratory)， 致力于研究各种感官间的协力模式。 他一篇与人合着，名为听觉线索如何影响 对于洋芋片脆度和新鲜的知觉的期刊文章， 让他荣获实验心理学协会奖 (Experimental Psychology Society Prize) 和 2008 年搞笑诺 贝尔奖。 搞笑诺贝尔奖是颁给「乍听之下好笑， 但其实值得深思」的研究。但即便好笑， 某些重量级餐饮业者可是对 Spence 的研究 认真以对。 Spence 是许多知名餐饮集团 如星巴克的品牌顾问，为此投入开发音乐 专辑以搭配咖啡饮品。他曾与名厨 Ferran Adrià 和 Heston Blumenthal 合 作， 两 人 深 信 享 受 美 味 的 餐 点 也 包 括 五 感 的 满 足。 Spence 助 Blumenthal 升华菜单上的菜式 , 如招牌菜式海洋之音（Sound of the Sea）， 这是一个伴有 iPod 的海鲜拼盘，让顾客用

餐时可一边听着海浪和水流声响。获得一 致的回响是，声音的效果确实替味觉飨宴 增添更多趣味。 Spence 在餐饮领域目前研究的是共通 感觉，也就是透过某个感官刺激会直接带 动另一个感官的回应。研究发现，高亢的 声音强化了餐点里的甜度，而低频的声音 则增强苦味和鲜味。有鉴于此，在套用于 顾客用餐或饮酒的氛围时，便可播放不同 类形的音乐。Spence 又说 ： 「我们有信心证 明，这样的方式可明显改变味觉感官达 5％ 到 10％。 」Spence 团队一直以来竭力研究 「声音佐料」 （“sonic seasoning,”） ，即作曲家 和音效设计师根据味觉测试的结果，精准 地制作出搭配各种用餐体验的听觉享受。

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c a d e n z a Interview with John Boreland, Musicstyling/Imagesound Director, Asia Pacific Oceania What impact does music have on F&B patrons?

Music is a major emotional component of our aural environment. This is not mythology, it’s science. We are always looking to deliver memorable moments to our clients, just as our clients are constantly seeking to deliver memorable moments to their customers. F&B outlets provide the theater in which to make such connections, and Musicstyling’s role is to create the perfect soundtrack for these unique events.

How far can music’s impact be measured in dollars and cents?

Experiences and emotions are very hard, if not impossible, to value. When Musicstyling partners with an F&B outlet, we create a sonic identity that forges an emotional bond between the outlet and its customers. This bond leads to satisfied customers, wordof-mouth recommendations, and repeat business. If restaurants deliver rewarding dining experiences to their customers, the returns are boundless.

Does the Hong Kong market have any peculiarities in musical taste that single it out from other parts of Asia-Pacific?

Hong Kong has been somewhat of a leader in Asia in terms of music trends, at the forefront of the dance music explosion in the ’90s, for example. Like most Asian countries, they have their own pop scene with its own characteristics, including a healthy dose of love songs. But there’s a big influence from the Korean music scene as well as certain aspects that are absorbed from Taiwan.

One thing that radio stations in Hong Kong have done to single it out in Asia is to create an appreciation for British alternative music that still sustains interest to this day.

Could you tell me a little about the company and your own musical background?

I am just one of a global team who have dealt with music all their working lives.

Whether DJ-ing, running record labels, owning record shops, touring, working in radio or elsewhere in the industry, the team have dedicated their lives to music. Don’t casually ask one of us what music we like or you may be there all night! Musicstyling has grown as a result of this passion – showing how music really can make a difference in every situation. Luxury hotels have taken this message to heart and have helped establish Musicstyling in a hundred and twenty countries around the world.

How do you see the future of customized music in Hong Kong’s restaurants and bars?

In this market, the bar is constantly being raised with regard to the quality of food, wine, presentation, interior design, and every other aspect of the dining experience.

The days of playing generic music are past.

Our customers in all markets are demanding a music experience which matches their valuable brands and prized concepts. Musicstyling makes it easy for restaurateurs to source the cream of the global music scene to create customized music solutions that match their own creativity.

Ben & Jerry’s, the US ice cream chain, is said to be considering a sonic range of flavors, with QR codes on the tubs that will allow customers to access complementary sounds via their phones.

§ 美国冰淇淋连锁店Ben & Jerry’s非常注重音乐的选

择，顾客可透过扫描QR条码，从手机上挑选配搭的音乐。

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“Music, Mind, and Mouth” is the delightful title of Qian (Janice) Wang’s master’s thesis submitted in 2013 to the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. She explores in minute detail the interaction between music and flavor perception and describes a series of experiments that included meals staged in installations designed to appeal to all the senses. One such meal had two “musical condiments” per course, each designed to contain the flavors corresponding to the musical condiments, with participants filling in questionnaires at each stage. A four-course dinner involved eating half of each course with music and the other half without. She admits that the results were hard to assess because of the way the social interaction varied according to the volume/nature of the music. In other words, her guinea-pig diners were so animated in their conversation that they were barely aware of the changes in ambient sound. Perhaps gourmets are not yet totally enslaved by science.

§「音乐，心灵，滋味」（Music, Mind,

e n c o r e

and Mouth）是麻省理工学院学生 Qian (Janice) Wang于2013年提出的硕士论文题目。内容探讨音乐和

味觉感受间细微的相互作用，并描述一系列实验，当中包括设计特别餐点以刺激感官。一餐中每道菜 皆有两个「音乐调味品」，并有对应的味道配对音乐调味品，试验者将在每个阶段填写问卷。一套四 道菜的晚餐，享用每道菜时一半搭配音乐，另一半没有。她表示，随着音乐与音量不同，人们互动的 方式也会因此改变，使得这个结果很难评估。换句话说，她的实验对象沉浸在生动热络的聊天氛围， 致使他们似乎没有察觉周围声音的变化。或许科学对美食家的影响还不显著。

音乐对餐饮业顾客会有什么影响？ 音乐是我们听觉环境中主要的情感元 素，这不是神话，而是科学。我们致力于 提供客户难忘的时刻，如同客户也不断地 为其顾客营造印象深刻的时光。餐饮业者 提 供 可 以 产 生 情 绪 连 结 的 情 境 空 间， 而 Musicstyling 的角色就是为这些情境空间创 造最佳配乐。 音乐的影响如何用收入来衡量 ? 即便可以衡量，我觉得经验和情感都 是非常难以度量的。当 Musicstyling 与餐 饮业合作时，我们创造声音识别以强化餐 厅与顾客间的情感连结。这样的连结能有 效提升客户的满意度、口碑宣传，进而成 为回头客。如果餐厅提供顾客绝佳的用餐 体验，回客率必定会大幅提升。

在音乐品味方面，香港市场是否有别于其 他亚太地区市场的独特之处？ 以音乐趋势而言，香港可称为亚洲的 领导者，像在 90 年代，香港市场已然站在 舞曲潮流的最前端。跟大多数亚洲国家一 样，他们有自己的流行乐坛和特色，包括 情歌在内 ；但仍有某部分的影响来自韩国 以及台湾乐坛。香港电台唯一与亚洲市场 有所区隔的，就是对英国另类音乐的欣赏， 至今仍影响着现今乐坛的发展。 您如何看待香港餐厅和酒吧里独创音乐的 未来趋势？ 如今的酒吧业者不断从各个面向提升 店内的用餐品质，包括餐点、酒品、摆盘、 室内设计等等。播放大众音乐的时代已经 过去，现在顾客需要的是能与他们的价值 品牌和理念相结合的音乐体验。Musicstyling 让餐饮业者轻松掌握全球乐坛的精华， 打造符合自己风格的创新音乐。

能说说关于您的公司与您的音乐背景吗？ 我只是全球专精于音乐相关工作的团 队成员之一。无论是做 DJ、经营唱片公司、 拥有唱片行、巡回演出、在电台或从事音 乐相关工作，这些人都贡献出所有热情与 热忱。但别轻易问我们喜欢什么样的音乐， 因为可能一整晚都未说得完。 正因这热情， Musicstyling 才得以发扬，音乐能在不同情 境中有效地创造出别具风格的气氛，这已 是未来时势所趋。高档酒店业者已然掌握 这波趋势，因此在世界各地 120 个国家已 创造其专属的 Musicstyling。

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

品尝四季

taste the seasons At Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Vida Rica’s noted chef takes inspiration from the music of Vivaldi.

“FOOD AND MUSIC have such an intriguing relationship,” says Dominique Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage at Mandarin Oriental, Macau. “The chef is like a conductor and the commis chefs are the musicians – the whole thing is an orchestra.”

Even the stove in a French kitchen is called the piano, so it’s little wonder that music has played a big role in the creative process of this native of Burgundy. “I wanted to play the piano when I was younger, but took up the trumpet instead. I listen to different kinds of music all the time – international, modern, classical, depending on my mood. And indirectly, it gives me inspiration. In the summer I may listen to salsa, and you’ll see that the food I create is like the music – colorful, vibrant, and bright.

“Music affects mood, and mood is reflected in what I create,” says the chef.

“Nostalgic music may influence me to make food based on a memory or a certain time in my life.” Recalling one of his favorite pieces, Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons, he remarks, “If you close your eyes and listen, it’s really incredible how you can hear the seasons change.”

Chef Dominique has created four original signature dishes at Vida Rica to celebrate the seasons. “Each time of year gives me such wonderful things to work with,” he says. “These dishes let you taste the seasons changing – berries, salad, soup, and seafood – the essence of summer, spring, autumn, and winter.” 在澳门文华东方酒店，韦瓦第 (Vivaldi) 的音乐赋予了「御苑」餐厅名厨丰富的灵感。 酒店厨艺餐饮总监贝铭乐如是说 :「美食和音乐有着迷人的关联。若说主厨是指挥家， 那助厨便是各式演奏者，整个厨房就像交响乐团一样。 」 一如法式厨房里的火炉又被称作「钢琴」 ，对于来自勃根地的大厨而言，音乐在创 作过程中到底扮演了多重要的角色 ? 一切不言自明。「我年轻时曾经想学习弹钢琴，但 最后选择了吹小号。我一直在听各种不同类型的音乐，有国际的、现代的、古典的，随 ，食客就 心而定。不同的音乐能间接激发灵感。正如夏天时我会听萨尔萨乐曲（salsa） 会发现我做出来的食物跟这种音乐很像－明亮、缤纷，又充满着活力。 」 「音乐影响心情，而心情会反映在我创作的料理上，怀旧的音乐会让我 贝铭乐说 ： 第的「四季」说道 ： 「如果你闭上眼睛听，就能听到季节的更迭，真的很不可思议。 」 贝铭乐也在「御苑」创作出四道招牌菜，以颂赞四季的美好。「一年中无论什么时 刻，都有如此多的美妙事物让我去创作发挥。这些菜肴能让你尝到季节变换的滋味，沙 拉、莓果、汤品和海鲜，是春、夏、秋、冬的精髓。 」

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DAVID HARTUNG

根据回忆，或生命中某段时期发生的事来做料理。 」他回忆着自己最喜欢的曲子，韦瓦

Spring

My Garden On Your Plate 田园沙律

“This salad is all about the season’s first abundant produce, bright and fresh,” says Dominique.

“It looks exactly like my father’s garden with everything you’d find there – the vegetables, the flowers, the soil and rocks.” Beetroot, asparagus spears, baby mushrooms, green beans, cherry tomatoes, and carrots turn a gray platter into a vibrant display of color. Mixed greens and edible flowers lay next to “soil” of crushed brown bread and black olives and “rock” made from potato covered in edible clay. 贝铭乐说 ： 「盘上这道沙拉，用的全是当季 盛产的食材，明亮而新鲜。它看起来就像我父 亲的花园，那边找得到的东西，在这道菜里也都 找得到蔬菜、花朵、土壤和石头。 」甜菜根、芦笋、 蘑菇、四季豆、樱桃番茄和萝卜，让灰色的盘子流泻出 鲜活的色彩。弄碎的黑面包和黑橄榄是「土壤」 ，而「石头」 则由覆盖着可食黏土的马铃薯制成，各种绿色蔬菜和可食花朵布 满在土壤和石头四周。

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Autumn Onion Soup 洋葱清汤 “The most popular autumn dish in Europe is soup, and this is the best known soup in the world,” says Dominique. “We caramelize the onions until velvety, then add wine and stock and cook for hours.” He lends his elegant touches to a dish of humble ingredients: a scoop of the onions, a dollop of melted Gruyère, and a Parmesan and Gruyère crisp are topped with the steaming broth and Gruyère espuma. 「欧洲最受欢迎的秋天料理非汤莫属，而这是 世界上最出名的一种汤。 把洋葱熔化如焦糖 般柔软绵滑，再加入酒和汤料烹煮数小时。 」 贝铭乐把自己典雅的品味发挥在一道食材简 单的料理上 ：一勺洋葱、少许融化的格律耶 尔起司，冒着白烟的汤底上撒缀着帕玛森和 格律耶尔起司脆片和格律耶尔泡沫。

Winter Seafood Tower 海鲜塔 A mix of both cooked and raw seafood, the dish comes on a bed of crushed ice and serves two. Included are Canadian lobster, spider crab, seared diver scallops, fried langoustine, octopus, white clams, deep-sea red prawns, razor clams, oysters, and sashimi of fire-flamed, house-marinated mackerel and salmon. “Winter is the best time for seafood,” says Dominique, “The water is cold and the flavor and texture of the flesh are incredible.” 两人份的料理放在一层碎冰上呈现，这是一 大 龙 虾、 蜘 蛛 蟹、 烤 扇 贝、 炸 螯 虾、 章 鱼、 白蛤蜊、深海红虾、竹蛏和牡蛎，以及沾上 独家酱料的炙烧鲭鱼和鲑鱼生鱼片。「冬天最 适合吃海鲜了，因为水温很低，这些生鲜的 口感和风味完全无懈可击。 」

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

道生熟食结合的海鲜料理。成员包含了加拿

Summer Hot and Cold

红桑子荔枝雪葩 Nothing says summer as definitively as berries, and this creation by Chef Dominique fairly shouts with all the flavors and freshness of the season. In the center of the plate rests a white chocolate ball dusted with red coloring. Enclosed within is a cool filling of raspberry crème Chantilly and lychee and raspberry sherbet. Ringing the plate is an assortment of fresh strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries. At the table, warmed berry sauce is poured over the chocolate ball so that everything melts together into a delightful medley of fruity, crispy, tart, and sweet notes. 只有莓果才能准确地定义夏天，而这道由贝铭乐原创的料理，把这个季节所有的新鲜风味诠释得淋漓尽 致。盘子中央有颗染着红色的白巧克力球，里头包着覆盆子鲜奶油、荔枝和覆盆子雪酪，环绕盘子周围 的则是新鲜草莓、蓝莓、覆盆子和黑莓。一上桌，巧克力球便淋上温热的莓果酱，让一切熔合成集酸、甜、 脆和水果风味于一身的快乐组曲。

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百里挑一

cream of the crop

MARIKE VAN BEURDEN stops her mixer and pulls out a blowtorch – common enough for pastry chefs nowadays, but rather unexpected when making crème mousseline.

“Temperature is very important if you’re working with cream,” she explains, giving the stainless steel bowl a couple of passes with the torch to bring the contents up to room temperature. “If the butter and cream aren’t the same temperature, the cream will split.”

Marike has modernized crème mousseline by adding strawberry confit to the traditional crème pâtissière and butter. “I find the combination of fruity and creamy flavors more interesting. It feels lighter and healthier with so much fruit in there.”

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But she’s careful to note that even if current trends favor lighter desserts, cream will always play a crucial role in pastries.

“Whipped cream brings a feeling of lightness because it has so much air in it, but it also adds strength and structure to pastries.”

Her choice is European cream, an artisanal product backed by generations of tradition and know-how. “I grew up in the countryside in Europe with two milk farms on my street,” says Marike. “It’s a beautiful thing to see the way they treat their cows, the way they process everything – and it’s definitely reflected in the product.” European cream is known for its silky texture and fresh aroma. Chefs rely on a regional decree that

guarantees 30 percent milk fat in European cream, making it right in any recipe and for any dish from savory to sweet.

Marike begins listing the innumerable ways of cooking with cream: gel it in a panna cotta, whip it as a base for mousse, emulsify it with chocolate for a ganache, cold infuse it with an endless variety of flavors – vanilla, coffee, citrus zest, fresh herbs and spices. One gets the sense that the versatility of this ingredient is central to her innovative approach as a pastry chef. Certainly one constant throughout Marike’s creative output is the place that European cream holds as an indispensable staple in her repertoire.

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

A stellar pastry chef explains why the best cream is so crucial to her contemporary style.

Marike van Beurden

Fraisier MvB Style 2015

Marike van Beurden 停下手中的搅拌器换上 喷枪－这对甜点厨师而言是经常用到的东 西，但对制作慕斯琳奶油馅而言却不常见。 「对乳脂制作而言，温度是至关重要的可 掌控因素。」她解释着，并用喷枪往不锈钢 碗连喷两、三下，好让慕斯琳奶油馅上升 到室温温度。「若奶油和乳脂的温度不同， 乳脂就会裂开。」 Marike 为慕斯琳奶油馅添加新色彩－在 传统的奶油和卡士达酱中加入糖渍草莓。 「我 发现乳脂很适合搭配水果，柔滑多汁、风味 绝妙，丰富的水果更令人感到健康清爽。 」 她仔细补充说明，尽管时下崇尚口味 清爽的甜点，乳脂在甜点制作中仍占有无 法轻易取代的位置。 「打发鲜奶油中的空气 含量决定成品口感的轻盈，但同时也让味 道更加厚实有层次。」 她坚持选用欧洲出产的乳脂，以传统 技术世代相传的纯手工产品。「我在欧洲的 一个小乡村中长大，我家那条街上就有两 家酪农场。看他们饲养乳牛与制作奶制品 的方式，就感到幸福与温馨，而这种方式 也反映在产品的好品质上。」欧洲的乳脂以 丝滑口感和清新香气著名，主厨们运用这 种脂肪含量高达 30% 的乳脂，设计出从前 菜到甜点都百搭的各种食谱和菜色。 Marike 如数家珍地介绍制作乳脂的方 式 ：将意式奶酪加热后打发当作慕斯的基 底，等它充分乳化再添加巧克力成为甘纳 许。放凉后加入香草、咖啡、柑橘皮、新 鲜药草或香料等增添风味就完成了。如此 恰 如 其 分 地 展 现 出 乳 脂 的 创 新 风 貌， 是 Marike 成为知名甜点厨师的主要原因，而 欧式乳脂在她的糕饼创作生涯中始终扮演 着不可或缺的角色。 seasoned with song

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PRESENTED BY

Fraisier MvB Style 2015 Biscuit Pain de Gênes 375 g whole egg 375 g almond paste 120 g butter 70 g flour 5 g baking powder 20 g Ravifruit lemon zest 1. In a blender, combine the almond paste and egg on low, then whip on high.

2. Add the flour and baking powder, ­followed by the melted butter and zest.

3. Bake at 180°C for 12 minutes.

4. Trim the cake to fit the mold. 吉涅司 蛋 375 克 杏仁膏 375 克 奶油 120 克 面粉 70 克 泡打粉 5 克 乐果纷（Ravifruit）冷冻柠檬皮 20 克

1. 将蛋和杏仁膏放入搅拌机，先以低速搅 打，再转到高速。

2. 将面粉和泡打粉和1一起轻轻搅拌成糊， 再加入融化的奶油和柠檬皮搅拌均匀。

3. 烤箱预热180度，放入烤12分钟。 4. 将面糊倒入模。

Strawberry Marmalade 650 g Ravifruit IQF strawberries 65 g sugar 10 g pectin NH 500 g fresh strawberries, brunoise cut ​ (very finely diced) 1. Cook the frozen berries, sugar, and ­pectin together and cool.

2. Add the fresh strawberries.

3. Pour 230 g of the marmalade into each mold, gently press the biscuit pain de Gênes on top, and freeze the entire mold. 草莓果酱 乐果纷（Ravifruit）冷冻草莓 650 克 糖 65 克 pectin NH 果胶粉 10 克 新鲜草莓 500g，均匀地切为规则状小丁

1. 将冷冻草莓、糖和果胶粉，以小火加热至 浓稠后放凉。

2. 加入新鲜草莓丁。 3. 每个模具各倒入230克果酱 4. 再从上方轻压吉涅司，最后将模具放进 冰箱冷冻。

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Crème Mousseline Fraise Strawberry Confit

Crème Pâtissière

300 g Ravifruit strawberry purée 38 g sugar 4.5 g pectin NH 3 g lemon juice 3 g port wine

250 g strawberry purée 250 g European cream 100 g sugar 45 g Gelcrem Hot 1.5 g vanilla beans 100 g egg yolk 25 g whole egg

1. Cook the purée with the sugar ​ and pectin.

2. Off heat, add the juice and port.

3. Allow the confit to set, then stir before use.

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

糖渍草莓 乐果纷冷冻草莓果泥 300 克 糖 38 克 pectin NH 果胶粉 4.5 克 柠檬汁 3 克 波特酒 3 克

1. 将果泥、果胶粉和糖以小火加热。 2. 离火，加入柠檬汁和波特酒。 3. 将糖渍草莓静置放凉，使用前再次 搅拌均匀。

1. Infuse the vanilla beans in the cream and strain.

2. Cook all the ingredients together and cool quickly. 卡士达酱 冷冻草莓果泥 250 克 欧式乳脂 250 克 糖 100 克 食用玉米淀粉 45 克 香草荚 1.5 克 蛋黄 100 克​ 全蛋 25 克

1. 将香草荚加入欧式乳脂中，然后过滤。 2. 加入所有食材一起加热至浓稠，之后快 速冰镇。

700 g crème pâtissière 350 g butter 300 g strawberry confit 1. Soften the butter and whip it until light in color.

2. Add the crème pâtissière and confit.

3. Pipe 200 g of the mixture into each mold, pressing the filling against the sides to remove air bubbles.

4. Gently press the frozen biscuit pain de Gênes on top and refreeze. 慕斯琳奶油馅 卡士达酱 700 克 奶油 350 克 糖渍草莓 300 克

1. 软化奶油后打发至呈现白色乳霜状。 2. 加入卡士达酱和糖渍草莓，搅拌均 匀。

3. 在每个蛋糕模具中放入各200g的慕 斯琳奶油馅，轻拍模侧让气泡消失。

4. 最后从上方轻压吉涅司，再度放入 冰箱冷冻。

Strawberry Glaze 520 g Ravifruit strawberry purée 80 g water 200 g sugar 200 g Isomalt 195 g glucose 10 g pectin NH red food coloring 1. Mix the pectin with 50 g of the sugar and ​ 50 g of the purée.

2. Combine 270 g of the purée with the water and sugar and heat to 70°C. 3. Add the pectin mixture and bring to a full boil.

4. Cool slightly and add the remaining 200 g of purée and the food coloring by drops.

5. When the mixture reaches 43-45°C, glaze the solidly frozen mousse and place it on the baked tart crust.

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塔皮

200 g butter 172 g confectioner’s sugar 160 g egg yolk 480 g cake flour

奶油 200 克 糖粉 172 克 蛋黄 160 克 蛋糕粉 ( 低筋面粉 ) 480 克

1. Soften the butter and add the sugar and egg yolk, then the cake flour.

2. Roll out the dough.

3. Freeze the dough before cutting it slightly larger than the mold.

4. Bake at 160°C for 10 minutes.

1. 软化奶油后，加入糖粉、蛋黄搅拌均

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匀，最后加入面粉揉成团。

2. 将面团均匀擀开。 3. 将擀平的面团放入冰箱冷冻。面团冰硬 后取出，裁切地为比蛋糕模稍大些。 4. 烤箱预热160度，放入切好的塔皮烤 10分钟 。

草莓糖衣 乐果纷（Ravifruit）冷冻草莓果泥 520 克 水 80 克 糖 200 克 益寿糖 ( 异麦芽酮糖醇 ) 200 克 葡萄糖 195 克 pectin NH 果胶粉 10 克 食用红色色素

1.

2.

3.

4.

取糖和果泥各50克，和果胶粉混合均匀。 将270克果泥、水和糖，一起加热至70度。 将1加入锅中，一起加热至沸腾后离火。 待稍冷却，倒入剩下的200克果泥和滴入几滴 食用色素。 5. 当降温至43-45度，涂上厚厚的冷冻慕斯，​ 放置于烤好的塔皮上。

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Tart Dough

PRESENTED BY

Strawberry Foam 400 g Ravifruit strawberry purée 28 g Instant Gel 1. Combine the ingredients with a hand blender and allow to set.

2. Whip with a stand mixer, adding extra purée if needed.

3. Spread the mixture on a cookie sheet and freeze.

4. Cut into small cubes. 草莓泡沫 乐果纷（Ravifruit）冷冻草莓果泥 400 克 即溶凝固剂 28 克

1. 将果泥和凝固剂以手持搅拌器搅打，静置 片刻。

2. 将1移入直立式搅拌器搅拌，可视情况加入 更多果泥。

3. 将混合物平铺在烤盘上，放入冰箱冷冻。 4. 结冻后切成小方块。

Strawberry Marshmallows 113 g sugar 122 g invert sugar 85 g strawberry purée 50 g glucose 80 g unflavored gelatin, bloomed 1. Bring the sugar, 68 g of the invert sugar, the purée, and the glucose to a boil.

2. Pour on top of the remaining 54 g of invert sugar and the gelatin.

3. Whip until almost cold.

4. Spread out on a cookie sheet and cut into squares. 草莓棉花糖 糖 113 克 转化糖浆 122 克 草莓果泥 85 克 葡萄糖 50 克 无味吉利丁 ( 明胶 ) 80 克，泡水软化

1. 将糖、68克转化糖浆、果泥和葡萄 糖加热至沸腾，关火。

2. 加入剩下54克转化糖浆和吉利丁。 3. 持续搅拌至接近常温。 4. 将其倒在烤盘上后切成四方形。

Finishing Touches

装饰蛋糕

Fresh Mara du Bois strawberries Lemon meringue (200 g sugar, 200 g egg white, 100 g lemon zest) White chocolate decorations Strawberry foam Strawberry marshmallows

新鲜 Mara du Bois 草莓 柠檬蛋白（以糖 200 克、蛋白 200 克和柠檬 皮 100 克制成） 白巧克力片装饰 草莓奶泡 草莓棉花糖

1. Decorate the glazed fraisier as desired.

1. 依照喜好装饰出属于你的法式草莓蛋糕。

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P R E S E N T E D B Y A LT I R A M A C A U

不时不食

always in season Aurora’s hallmarks of consistently superlative Italian cuisine and service are exemplified in its new fall menu.

FRANCESCO GRECO, the award-winning Chef de Cuisine of Aurora, Altira Macau’s signature Italian restaurant, is best known for his refined technique and classic Italian style, matured to perfection at some of the world’s top restaurants over a career of more than twenty-seven years. At Aurora this fall, he brings to bear the sum of his experience in creating a menu that celebrates the beauties of the season. It is the freshness of the ingredients in every dish, something that Aurora is famous for, that most clearly reveals Greco’s distinctive culinary approach.

His latest gastronomic journey begins with a mozzarella and lobster salad designed to pique the palate from the start. The sea

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urchin design of the glass plate on which the dish is presented is meant not only to please the eye, but also to hint at the intense umami flavors of ingredients that set the stage for everything to follow.

Greco is inspired by the deep hues of autumn in the next dish, combining the rich flavors of mountain lamb with herbs and berries in his innovative ravioli filling. “I’m fond of pairing blueberry’s acidity with the heady notes of fresh thyme,” he says. “And their flavors and aromas unify beautifully with the mellowness of the lamb.”

The menu, as always, brings out the innermost character of beloved Italian favorites from a fresh perspective. “At this

season we have baccalà of exceptional quality – flaky, smooth, and firm in texture,” says Greco. “It is not to be missed.”

And for meat lovers, the succulent wagyu beef is prepared with Chianti in the classic Italian manner.

The autumn tour is capped by a chocolate mousse with chestnuts and poached pear. “The Amedei chocolate from Tuscany is of superb quality,” says Greco, “and chestnuts are at their peak in the fall. The fruity notes of the poached pear contrast with the richness of the chocolate and chestnuts. The combination is designed to bring the meal to a conclusion with familiar tastes that are sweet and heartwarming.”

Mozzarella and Lobsters Salad ​ (amuse bouche size) ​ In sea urchin glass plate

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

水牛芝士龙虾沙律

坐镇澳门新濠锋酒店意大利餐厅「奥罗拉 (Aurora)」的得奖主厨 Francesco Greco 以精 湛厨艺及经典意式风格为人津津乐道。超 过 27 年厨师生涯的他，历经多家顶级餐厅 的历练，功夫已臻完美境界。为了奥罗拉 秋季菜色，他使出一身绝活，打造出的搭 配新鲜食材的精致菜肴，除了是奥罗拉招 牌特色，也在展现 Greco 不凡的烹调手法。 主厨的秋季美食之旅以水牛芝士龙虾 沙律为起点，刺激味蕾，达到开胃的效果。 海胆造型的玻璃餐盘取悦了饕客视觉，也点 出食材之「鲜美」是菜式的美味主轴。 这道意大利云吞的创意馅料，结合味 道丰厚的野生山羊颈肉及多种植物和莓果， 为主厨对深邃秋季的个人诠释。他说 ： 「蓝 莓酸加上百里香的冲鼻韵味甚是讨喜，揉

合的味道气息碰上口感柔嫩的羊颈肉又恰 到好处。」奥罗拉秋季菜单一如往常，也以 全新观点演绎主厨钟爱的意大利料理，玩 味其中的意式精神。Greco 说明 ： 「这季的 咸鳕鱼品质绝佳－层理分明、口感滑顺扎 实，不容错过。对于无肉不欢的饕客，则 有经 Chianti 红酒炖煮、道地意式风格的多 汁和牛可以大快朵颐。」 秋季美食之旅随着朱古力慕丝伴栗子 及酒煮梨上桌进入高潮。Greco 强调 ： 「托 斯卡尼进口的 Amedei 朱古力品质无可挑 剔，秋天也是栗子的最佳赏味时节，酒煮 洋梨的水果韵致正好与朱古力及栗子丰富 的味道形成巧妙对比。当初发想就是希望 以客人熟悉的味道为套餐划下完美句点， 别样甜美、又如有暖流涌上心头。」

↑↑↑ Pan-seared Australian Wagyu Beef Tenderloin, Seasonal Mushrooms and Chianti Wine Sauce 香煎和牛柳配时令蘑菇及意大利红酒汁 ↑↑ Chef De Cuisine Francesco Greco 餐厅主厨 Francesco Greco ↑ Amedei Chocolate Mousse, Chestnut and Poached Martin Sec Pear 巧克力慕斯伴栗子及酒煮梨

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PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU

艺术级美食

edible art A master’s relentless refusal to compromise brings the ultimate in authentic Japanese sushi to Macau.

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SHINJI KANESAKA is a shokunin, a supreme 作为「职人」，金坂真次这位殿堂级大师始 artisan driven by a never-ending pursuit of 终被追求卓越的目标及对日本料理传统的 excellence and a deeply held esteem for 至上推崇而鞭策前进，他矢志不渝地以最 Japanese culinary tradition, a man with the 高可达规格去完成寿司的制作准备并提供 single-minded objective of expressing his 优质服务，以此来展现日本独特的寿司文 culture through the preparation and service 化。怀揣这一信念，他在澳门新濠天地皇 of sushi of the highest attainable standard. 冠渡假酒店打造出气质雅致的寿司餐厅「金 With this goal in mind, he opened Shinji by 坂极上寿司」。 Kanesaka, his elegant sushi restaurant at 分店承袭位于东京银座区隐密巷弄的 City of Dreams’ Crown Towers in Macau. 江户风格本店精神，为大中华区的首个据 An extension of his Edo-style restaurant 点。七公尺挑高天花板下，每处装潢皆可 in Tokyo’s exclusive Ginza district, it is Kane见精致细节。寿司台取树龄两百年的日本 saka’s first outpost in Greater China. Every 柏树雕琢而成，台前客人围坐于此可尽览 little touch beneath the seven-meter-high 师傅捏握顶级寿司的传统及手艺。只见师 ceiling reflects a thoughtful and sophisti傅久经严苛训练的双手及双眼灵巧作业， cated attention to detail. Guests are seated 一丝一毫不容些许误差。他们挥洒精妙技 at a counter carved from a two-hundred巧，幻化出一个个小巧精致的掌上宝石， year-old Japanese cypress, an appropriate 如同可食用的艺术品一般，饕客们都要拍 stage for showcasing the tradi案叫好。 BY tions and artistry of fine sushi 澳门分店行政总厨大隅达 IRENE SAM crafted by masters whose tal也是拥有妙手生花技艺的师傅 ented hands and eyes have been 之一，此前曾于金坂真次门下 PHOTOGRAPHY BY rigorously trained for precision. 修习三年，也曾赴新加坡分店历 DAVID HARTUNG They command skills that give 练。他透露，学徒在师傅的言传 them the power to dazzle diners 身教下，自能获益良多 ： 「师傅 with their little jewels of edible artwork. 希望学徒用眼睛学习，观察他的技巧，且 Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi is one of 一定要聚精会神才能看到他手指与手掌间 these masters. He worked for three years 每个巧妙灵活的动作，揣测要掌握多大力 under Kanesaka and also received training 道才能把寿司捏的扎实，足以成形支撑生 at the Singapore branch of Shinji by Kane鱼片，但同时保持松软，让米粒入口后旋 saka. The master chef, whose techniques 即化开。若觉得学徒已然掌握技巧，金坂 Osumi has adapted, rarely gives explicit 师傅会请他们试捏寿司，『试味道』正是他 verbal directions while training appren唯​​一的评鉴之道。」 tices. “Master Kanesaka expects everyone 除了寿司师傅高超的手艺外，食材品 under him to observe his techniques with 质及鲜度也是决定能否做出完美寿司的关 eyes riveted,” says Chef Osumi. “One must 键。因此「金坂极上寿司」坚持每周三到 pay close attention to every move between 四次由日本直送新鲜食材，即使不在日本， the fingers and palms, gauging how much 客人也能享有百分百纯正日式口感体验。 pressure is applied to pack the sushi firmly 店内所有鲜鱼都由总厨亲自悉心挑选，连 – just enough to shape it up and support 用来煮米的水也是日本进口的温泉水。总 the fish, yet loosely enough for the grains to 厨解释 ： 「知道不用温泉水便煮不出想要的 break apart in the mouth. When he thinks 米饭质感后，东京及澳门就都非此水不用 that you’ve nailed the techniques, he’ll taste 了。饭的口感至关重要，不要太软也不能 your sushi. He only evaluates by tasting.” 太硬。」 In addition to the chefs’ highly refined 大隅达处理食材的天赋，无疑如让客 techniques, it is the quality and freshness 人吃下定心丸，有信心跟着他在澳门体验

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PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU

Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi

Japanese Omelet, Sea Eel, Horse Mackerel, Tuna Belly and Marinated Tuna

行政总厨大隅达

鸡蛋, 海鳗, 竹荚鱼, 吞拿大腹和吞拿赤身

of the ingredients that are most essential to producing exceptional sushi. That’s why Kanesaka has them flown in from Japan three to four times a week, ensuring that guests receive the most authentic experience possible outside Japan. All of the fish is carefully selected by him, and even the water used to cook the rice is imported from Japanese hot springs. “After we found out that the rice had the texture we wanted only when it was cooked in spring water, we started using it in both Tokyo and Macau,” Chef Osumi explains. “The texture of the rice is very important, neither too soft nor too firm.”

There’s no doubt that it’s Chef Osumi’s obvious flair with the ingredients that gives guests such confidence in trusting him to create the most exciting omakase experience in Macau. Meaning “I’ll leave it to you,” omakase involves suggesting the most appropriate choices and arranging the sequence of presentation; Chef Osumi formulates the best plan for each and every diner accordingly.

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“As a chef, I have to pay particular attention to timing,” he explains. “Ingredients like ark shell clams are best when eaten as soon as possible, while tuna should only be served after a short period of rest.”

The adventure may begin with one of the highlights of his menu this season, lean tuna sushi. Finely grated lime zest and tuna make an especially effective combination, the bright citrus notes subtly accenting the acidity of the tuna. The moment the sushi hits the palate, these top-layer flavors are rounded by the slightly warm rice, seasoned with red akazu vinegar made from the lees of sake.

Continuing with another inspiration, Chef Osumi redefines the notion of umami by marrying freshly-flown-in sea urchin with fish roe and fatty tuna on a bed of perfectly cooked sushi rice. It’s only when the guest has been sufficiently delighted and surprised that he introduces fresh fruits from Japan – melon, persimmons, pears, and grapes – to bring his remarkable omakase tour de force to a refreshing conclusion.

最引人入胜的「Omakase」飨宴，意 即以「全权委托」的方式，交由总厨 推荐最适切的餐食选择以及上桌享用 的顺序 ；总厨会根据每位客人的喜好 量身打造最棒的无菜单料理。他进一 步说明 ： 「身为厨师，我特别注重『时 间点』，像赤贝一上即吃味道最佳，鲔 鱼则是摆一小段时间之后上桌为妙。」 这趟美食冒险之旅以当季食材为 重点，由鲔鱼赤身揭开序幕。炙烧莱 姆皮及鲔鱼特别合拍，淡雅柑橘韵味 巧妙烘托出鲔鱼的酸度。寿司入口之 际，最上层数种味道裹覆着醋饭余温， 加上清酒渣滓研制的日本红醋调味相 得益彰。 大隅达接着继续驰骋于另一灵感 来源，巧妙组合新鲜直送海胆、鱼卵 及肥美的鲔鱼，放在口感完美的醋饭 上，将「鲜味」带至全新境界。客人 酒足饭饱、心满意足之际，才惊喜发 现还有主厨精心准备的日本进口水果 －蜜瓜、柿子、洋梨及葡萄，让这趟 无以伦比的委托之旅划下令人耳目一 新的句点。

Japanese Fruit with White Wine Jelly (Melon, Pear, Mango, Grape) 日本水果和白葡萄酒果冻（哈密瓜，梨子，芒果，葡萄）

潮点

ebb & flow The contemporary versatility of the newest hot spot at The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel redefines the concept of hotel lobby lounge.

Lobster Salad: poached lobster, mango, compressed watermelon, red and yellow endive and avocado. 龙虾沙拉：水煮龙虾 ，芒果 ， 压 缩西瓜，红黄苦白菜和牛油果

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THE TRENDSETTING PERSPECTIVE of Ebb & Flow is giving connected modern travelers a sophisticated balance of the things they really want while on the go. Combining modern design, the latest tech features, and an intriguingly different selection of food and drink, its flexibility in layout and ambience delivers an experience to match every vicissitude of day, time, or mood.

“Ebb & Flow has been designed with the ‘global nomad’ in mind,” says Luc Bollen, General Manager of The Park Lane Hong Kong. “It’s a junction where travelers as well as locals can gather – for a business meeting or a casual meal, or to catch up on emails, have a quiet coffee, or socialize over drinks with friends.”

Gourmet offerings include fresh bakery

items and slow-press juices for breakfast, an international menu of salads and sandwiches, and a beautifully presented “tapastry” of light tapas, always made with premium fresh seasonal ingredients. Guests make their selections from detailed interactive menus that give recommendations for perfect pairings.

Signatures include éclairs in five imaginative flavor combinations, an elaborate afternoon tea including éclairs and waffles with a choice of ten toppings, and an elegant contemporary salad of poached Boston lobster, compressed watermelon with citrus notes, mango, avocado, and red and yellow endive. Ebb & Flow is the first hotel lounge in Hong Kong to serve its singleorigin coffees from the Steampunk coffee machine. Employing a high-tech app that

PRESENTED BY THE PARK LANE HONG KONG, A PULLMAN HOTEL

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Home Made Éclair​ 自家制招牌法式泡芙

controls custom roasting and blending to achieve perfection in taste, body, and aroma, it is the preferred brewing method of coffee aficionados around the world. For wine-lovers there is an expertly curated wine list as well as an Enomatic wine dispenser with a rotating selection of eight premium labels.

Unique twists on classic cocktails include the Breakfast Martini and the Knickerbocker á la Monsieur.

With its bold original artwork, cosmopolitan vibe, tech amenities, and innovative menu, Ebb & Flow is fast becoming the chosen venue of millennials, business people, and adventurous travelers looking for a truly fresh approach.

General Manager ​ Luc Bollen

匆忙的现代旅人，总在旅途中寄望着专属自 己的圆融与平衡。引领潮流的 Ebb & Flow 结合现代设计、先进科技和缤纷餐饮，配合 变化万千的摆设与室内氛围，恰如其分地反 映出旅人在日程、时间与心境上的变迁。香 港柏宁铂尔曼酒店总经理 Luc Bollen 先生表 示： 「Ebb &Flow 的设计发想以『国际旅人』 为核心。这里是一个短途旅者与常住居民的 交汇节点，他们在此开会、用餐、收发邮件、 品茗咖啡，或与三五好友就着饮料谈天。 」 Ebb & Flow 的餐点能满足所有饕客的 味蕾 ：早餐的现做甜点与鲜榨果汁，寰宇 口味的沙拉和三明治，以及用新鲜上乘的 当季食材制作的精美餐前小点，可谓应有 尽有。宾客可从详尽的互动式菜单中，根 据建议选择最完美的搭配。招牌料理包括 一组囊括五款创新口味的招牌法式泡芙， 而由招牌法式泡芙、格子松饼与十种配料

组成的精致下午茶，则是搭配水煮波士顿 龙虾佐柑橘香压缩脱水西瓜块、芒果、酪梨、 红黄菊苣组成的雅致沙拉。Ebb & Flow 亦 是香港第一间以蒸气庞克咖啡机冲煮咖啡 单品的酒吧。蒸气庞克咖啡机配有高科技 应用程式，可为不同咖啡豆制定不同的烘 焙与搅拌时间，以达到最佳风味、醇厚度 与香气，是全球咖啡爱好者一致偏爱的冲 泡法。另外还为爱酒人士备有精心编制的 酒单，与转盘上标示有八种顶级葡萄酒品 牌的 Enomatic 分酒机。所供应的经典鸡尾 酒更加入独特调法，创造新口感，包括早 餐马丁尼和 Knickerbocker á la Monsieur 等。 Ebb & Flow 酒吧装潢以大胆的原创艺术风 格，洋溢着都会气息，并配备高科技与创 新菜谱，正迅速崛起成为千禧世代、商务 人士、冒险进取的旅人们聚会尝鲜的不二 之选。 seasoned with song

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P R E S E N T E D B Y R I T Z - C A R LT O N , M A C A U

尊尚粤式盛宴

haute cantonese

Char-Grilled Barbecued Iberian Pork ​ 蜜烧西班牙黑豚肉叉烧

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GUESTS WHO ENTER LAI HEEN, hovering on the fifty-first floor of the Ritz-Carlton, Macau, discover a rich and intimate interior of dark woods and ornate Portuguese tile motifs. Designed by HBA/Hirsch Bedner Associates, the spaces are serene and discreet, a quiet passageway leading from open dining areas to several private rooms, including one with a round table that seats twenty-two.

Executive Chef Bill Fu came to Lai Heen from Tin Lung Heen, the renowned Michelin two-star Cantonese restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. He grew up in a Cantonese household amidst a family of chefs, and his childhood was spent helping out behind the stove. There he mastered the art of wok hei, “breath of the wok,” a technique of searing at extreme temperatures that requires split-second skills to prevent overcooking.

“The trick is in controlling the temperature,” says Chef Bill. “It has to be very hot, but if you can keep it just right inside the wok under the lid, the result is a beautiful, tasty, fragrant, subtle smokiness. In Cantonese cuisine the aromas of the ingredients are as important as the tastes and textures.

They all have to come together in exactly the right proportions. When I create a new dish, the first thing I have in mind is the flavors, and then everything else – texture,

踏入高居澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店 51 楼的「丽 轩」，首先映入眼帘的便是以深色实木及葡 萄牙装饰磁砖为主轴的室内装潢，格调高 雅隽永，由国际知名酒店设计公司 HBA/ Hirsch Bedner Associates 打造的内部装潢典 雅古朴，尽显奢华气派，而由开放式用餐 区顺着一条闲静走道前行，可来到多间隐 密包厢，其中一间还设有足以容纳 22 人座 的大型圆桌。 「丽轩」行政总厨傅文彪大有来头，曾 坐镇于香港丽思卡尔顿酒店米其林二星食 府「天龙轩」。总厨出身自粤菜世家，一家 子都是厨师，可说是顾着炉火长大的小孩。 他在自家厨房练出炉前真工夫，精准掌握 「镬气」－极高温下分秒必争的翻炒技巧。 总厨大方分享个中秘诀 ： 「温度掌控正 是「镬气」关键所在，锅体须达到绝对高 温，热气腾腾方能猛火旺炒，要能将热炙 火候完美控制在镬盖下的密封镬体里，出 镬时便可坐收惹味出众、轻微焦香的烟呛 味。粤菜中，食材的香气和味道、口感同 等重要，一定要融合得天衣无缝。创作新 菜的时候，我首先想到的就是气味，然后 才到口感、配色及摆盘等其他要素。粤菜 当以应季时令食材为重，我的菜式创作也 始终遵循这一原则。」 丽轩特色梅菜扣腩肉为经典家常菜的 华丽变身版，总厨说明 ： 「一般梅菜炖扣腩 肉的『老妈子手法』我们不用，取而代之， 梅菜脱水油炸处理，烹调过程蒸发的甜味 则在收锅时倒上少量糖补足。荷兰进口的 猪肉－猪肚部位油花分配平均，用在这道

RED DOG STUDIO (2)

At Macau’s highest Chinese restaurant, the sky’s the limit on freshness, luxury, and originality.

Executive Chef Bill Fu​ 行政总厨傅文彪

P R E S E N T E D B Y R I T Z - C A R LT O N , M A C A U

Steamed Pork and Lobster Dumpling with Golden Leaf, Steamed Shanghainese Dumplings stuffed with Ginseng and Dark Birch Seed, Deep-Fried Spring Roll with Crab Meat and Salted Egg Yolk

color, presentation – falls into place. Cantonese food respects seasonal produce and my creations always reflect that.”

Special Braised Pork Belly with Preserved Vegetables is a classic homemade dish with a modern luxe twist. “Instead of the usual ‘mama’s cooking’ style of stewing the preserved vegetables with the braised pork,” explains the chef, “I’ve reconstructed this with dehydrated deep-fried mui choi, finishing with a dash of sugar, since some of the sweetness evaporates in the process. The pork is from Holland – it has the even distribution of pork-belly fat needed to give the dish perfect balance without being excessively heavy, something very important in Cantonese cuisine.”

Double-Boiled Chicken Soup with Fish Maw and Sea Coconut is one of Lai Heen’s signatures. “In Western dining, the meal always ends with dessert,” Chef Bill notes, “and in Cantonese cuisine, we always start with soup.” This one distills the best flavors of land and sea in a single bowl, using the traditional technique of double-boil, in which ingredients are placed in a ceramic jar and boiled over a water bath, ensuring that no moisture is lost.

For many, barbecued meats are the litmus test of a good Cantonese restaurant.

“There’s no secret to a good roast,” says the

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chef. “The best ingredients need no seasoning, and I simply work to bring out all the original flavors.

My Char-Grilled Barbecued Iberian Pork comes from Spanish pigs that eat only acorns, which give it the most delicious natural flavor. We roast it in an oven over hot lava stones. We don’t use firewood – we care about the environment, and I think this technique achieves the same results without the smoke from burning wood.”

In his unique Steamed Crab Claw with Egg White Lobster Bisque, Chef Bill brings luxury to the traditional Cantonese dish of steamed egg white with the addition of lobster roe, giving it a beautiful orange hue and a rich seafood edge. Completing this symphony of flavors from the sea is a perfectly cooked Vietnamese giant crab claw.

Cheese in Cantonese food should come as no surprise. “It’s been around for a long time in local Hong Kong dining,” says Chef Bill, “for example in the cha chaan teng ‘diner’ dish of lobster cheese noodles. My Hong Kong Style Cooked Blu Lobster with Buckwheat Noodles and Gruyere Cheese Sauce pays homage to this local favorite.

I chose Blu Lobster from France because the meat is pinker and more flavorful and it has a sweetness that you don’t get from the local catch. I pair it with a light, runny

cheese sauce to accentuate the flavor of the lobster rather than cover it up. And buckwheat is a healthier option that’s less dense than traditional Chinese noodles and keeps the balance of the dish.”

Whether he’s using imported European products or those sourced locally from Greater China, Chef Bill carries on the timehonored traditions of fine Cantonese food at Lai Heen, carefully handpicking the very best ingredients of each season and spotlighting their natural colors, textures, and flavors in every dish.

RED DOG STUDIO (2)

至尊金箔龙虾饺，玄杞人蔘小笼包，金沙蟹肉长春卷

Hong Kong Style​ Cooked Blue Lobster​ with Buckwheat Noodles​ in Gruyere Cheese Sacue​ 芝士燴藍龍蝦

菜恰到好处，不会过重，也正是粤菜的精 髓之一。 」 竹筒花胶海底椰炖鸡汤为丽轩招牌菜 之一，总厨强调： 「相对西菜常以甜点做结， 粤菜则喜欢用汤作为开端。」这盅炖汤浓缩 了海陆间的最佳美味，运用传统双层炖煮 技巧，即食材置于陶瓮后隔水加热，保证 水份没有丝毫流失。 对许多饕客而言，烧肉正是鉴别粤菜 餐厅品质的试金石。对此总厨表示 ： 「肉 要烤得好吃其实没什么秘诀，真正好的食 材 不 需 调 味， 呈 现 原 味 便 已 足 够。 我 的 蜜烧西班牙黑豚肉叉烧，选用只吃橡实的

西班牙猪，其肉质充满天然果实香味。我 们餐厅因为环保因素，不使用薪材，而是 使用火山热石进行加热香烤，此种烹调方 式不须烧材制造熏烟也能达到同样的效 果。」 花雕蛋白蒸鲜蟹钳这道传统粤菜在总 厨妙手生花下多了分奢华，蒸蛋白另还放 入龙虾汤，加上雅致的橘色调外，更添丰 富的鲜味。最后配上精心制作的巨大越南 蟹钳，为这美味交响曲落下圆满音符。 以芝士配入粤式菜肴算不得什么稀奇 做法，总厨解释 ： 「香港地方菜系里芝士入​​ 菜历史悠久，像茶餐厅就点得到龙虾芝士

面，我的这道芝士烩蓝龙虾就是向前者致 敬的力作。选用法国蓝龙虾主要因为虾肉 更粉嫩、鲜味较浓，肉质甜美的程度也非 地方捕获的龙虾可比。蓝龙虾搭配淡雅、 稀薄的芝士酱汁相得益彰，而不至喧宾夺 主。荞麦成份健康、不那么富有嚼劲，用 以取代传统中式面条是个不错的选择，让 各式味道融合的恰恰好。」 不管是欧洲进口农产或大中国区直送 地方食材，傅文彪师傅都秉持「丽轩」经 过时间考验的优良粤菜传统，悉心挑选当 季最佳食材，经由每道菜肴让天然的色泽、 口感及味道发光发热。 seasoned with song

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Honey Glazed Ham​ with Lotus Seed​ 蜜汁火舫

PRESENTED BY HARBOURVIEW HOTEL

Head Chef Fred Yan

Shanghai Steamed Pork Dumplings

总厨严明海

上海小笼包

正宗上海味

true shanghai

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

The newest dining adventure at Harbourview Hotel brings the unique experience of Shanghainese cuisine to Macau Fisherman’s Wharf.

JADE ORCHID’S atmospheric interior of hanging birdcage lamps, a retro rickshaw, and exposed brick walls evokes the colorful winding alleyways of old Shanghai. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco touches throughout the dining rooms speak of the city’s glamour days of the 1920s and ’30s.

The food is equally authentic. “Shanghainese cuisine, ben bang cai, is a melting pot of tastes,” says Head Chef Fred Yan, a native of Shanghai with over thirty years of culinary experience. “It is rich, complex, layered, and subtle at the same time – flavorful and hearty, but not heavy. Shanghai is a port city, and back in the day an international crowd passed through, bringing a lot of Western influence. The flavors of Shanghainese food come from our own history and culture mixing with outside influences to adapt and create dishes that resonate with our taste buds.”

Chef Fred’s own style is a blend of Huaiyang and Zhejiang cuisines. “The best cook I’ve ever known and my greatest influence was my nanny,” he says. “My food combines

elements of classic dishes, local flavors, and popular street foods to deliver a truly authentic experience.”

Seasonal ingredients like hairy crab play an important role. “We feature it in the ‘lion’s head’ braised meat ball with hairy crab roe, paired with warm yellow wine and ginger to balance the yin and yang of the dish. My honey ham is slow-cooked with rock sugar to distill the salty essence of the meat alongside the sweet notes of the lotus seeds.” Chef Fred’s signature xiaolongbao, steamed pork buns with translucent skins of twenty-four folds, display his mastery of a Shanghainese classic. “First sip the hot broth,” he advises, “and then dip the dumpling into the Zhenjiang vinegar, or gingerly try to eat the broth and meat together.

The entire culinary journey, from the room’s ambience of natural light, greenery, and harbor view at Macau Fisherman’s Wharf to the chef ’s repertoire of seasonal ingredients and authentic cooking techniques, reflects the rich cultural history of the old port city of Shanghai.

励庭海景酒店玉兰苑上海餐厅内悬挂的鸟 笼吊灯、摆放的复古人力车和映衬着墙面 外露的砖瓦，都在勾画重现着老上海蜿蜒 曲折的巷弄之美。这贯穿整个餐室的新艺 术主义与装饰艺术风格，也似乎在诉说着 20 世纪 20 到 30 年代旧上海滩的时光。这 里的菜色也是正宗上海风格。出身上海、 厨 师 生 涯 超 过 30 年 的 总 厨 严 明 海 形 容 ： 「『本帮菜』像是融合各式风味的大熔炉， 口味丰厚、繁复、层次多变，但同样保有 细腻之处，风味独树一帜、非常丰盛，却 又不会过重。上海菜的味道是本土历史与 外来文化相交融的成果，期间也不断改良、 推陈出新以应大众喜好而变化。」 总厨的烹调风格综合了淮扬及浙江两大 菜系之长，他说 ： 「我碰过最厉害的厨师就 是我姥姥，也是影响我最深的人。我的菜单 融合了经典菜式、地方菜及备受欢迎的街头 美食等不同元素，保证是最地道的本帮菜。 」 季节食材如毛蟹也是总厨料理的重要 一环。他说明 ： 「像蟹粉狮子头就加入蟹黄 提味，烹饪时常辅以温热的黄酒及姜片调 味，这也正是让道菜『阴阳调和』的绝佳 作法。蜜汁火舫则是用糖块慢火熬煮，逼 出鲜腿的咸味，同时伴以甜甜的莲子作点 缀。」至于严师傅的招牌小笼包，皮薄轻透、 考究捏合成 24 个折褶，展露出炉火纯青的 经典上海菜手艺。吃法也是有诀窍的，他 提醒： 「先吸一点汤汁，接着沾镇江醋品尝， 或小心点，汤汁及肉馅一起吃也很棒。」 从日光充沛、可饱览澳门渔人码头迷 人海景的用餐环境、到主厨的正宗技艺和 精选时令食材，都展现着上海港口城市的 历史文化。 seasoned with song

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各地稀釀

important imports A dealer in high-end spirits brings Irish hospitality to Macau’s newest destination bar.

Niall Murray, Owner & Proprietor, Prem1er Bar & Tasting Room

SPIRITS

“GO INTO ANY NAME-BRAND HOTEL and shut your eyes— you could be anywhere ,” says Niall Murray, managing

「走进任何一家知名酒店，闭 Niall Murray 说道 ： 上眼睛，你就可以去到任何想去的地方。 」他是顶

director of premium alcohol importer Prem1er Hospitality 级烈酒进口商 Prem1er Hospitality Management Management and owner of its new venture, Prem1er Bar 的董事总经理，同时也是该公司最新合资事业 and Tasting Room.

Prem1er Bar and Tasting Room 的老板。 The bar is a world away from the hotels and casinos that 相较于路氹金光大道上四处林立的酒店和赌 make up the Cotai Strip. It’s a comfortable space with a welcom场，这座酒吧简直是另一个世界，不仅位在澳门 氹仔旧城区的安静街道上，空间设计也十分舒适， ing atmosphere on a quiet street in the heart of Macau’s Old Taipa. “I think we’re becoming a destination because of where 「我觉得因为所在 感觉非常温馨。 Murray 说道 ： we are,” says Murray. “The bar is unique because it’s not in a 位置的关系，这里已经逐渐变成一个景点。我们 casino with seventy thousand people around.” Murray, an Irish 的酒吧非常独特，不在人潮满满的赌场里面，周 native from a hospitality-industry background, set up his own 围随时有七万人来来去去。 」Murray 来自爱尔兰， company in 2005 to help hotel groups open new properties in 出身酒店业，2005 年自立门户，专门协助酒店 Macau. During the setup of one hotel opening, he became dis集团在澳门开设新物业。在一次筹备饭店开业的 enchanted with the standards of the spirits available. 过程，他突然意识到现有烈酒水准不佳的问题。 “The opportunity for a spirits company came about from 「成立烈酒公司的机缘来自一趟蒙古之旅， 」 a visit to Mongolia,” Murray explains. It was during a tradiMurray 解释道。他参加蒙古传统饮酒仪式，人 tional Mongolian drinking ritual in which the ring finger is 们用无名指轻沾伏特加酒，向天敬弹，Murray dipped in vodka and offered to the sky that Murray 也接到一小碗伏特加，装在银碗里 BY was handed some vodka in a silver bowl. “I didn’t 头。 他 说 道 ： 「我觉得我没办法一 ANDREA LO think I could drink vodka straight,” he says, “it’s just 口 干 掉 伏 特 加， 太 烈 了。 」他的合 too strong.” His partner, a Mongolian native, gave 作伙伴，一个蒙古人，给他斟上一 PHOTOGRAPHY BY him a shot that was so smooth he thought she must 杯，喝下去竟十分顺口，他以为对 DAVID HARTUNG have watered it down. “She said to me, ‘What do 方掺了水在酒里。「结果她对我说 ： you mean ? That’s our good stuff!’” The good stuff 『你这话是什么意思？这可是我们的

•

turned out to be Chinggis Khan, a Mongolian-made vodka that had never before been exported. “We met with Apu, the makers,” says Murray, “and after a long negotiation they agreed to allow us to export it.”

Murray was wary of bringing his new find to Macau, a city without an established culture of cocktail drinking. “I was concerned about introducing a Mongolian vodka that nobody had heard of, so I decided to find other outstanding products before introducing Chinggis Khan.”

The hunt was on for top-range, award-winning spirits.

“I was on the lookout for independent artisanal distillers and brewers that I could have a good rapport with. Now we’ve built up a hundred and fifty labels from exceptional producers, and I have a close relationship with each of them.”

Murray believes people in Macau, especially those in the hospitality industry, are looking for the perfect place to go after work just to unwind and have a quiet drink. “This is a place that’s casual, but a bit more high-end. I love the conviviality of a traditional Irish bar. We know your name and we know how to take good care of you.”

好东西！』 」原来这个好东西是蒙古土产伏特加

Chinggis Khan，以前从未出口过。「我们去拜访 制酒商 Apu，经过漫长的谈判后，他们终于同意 让我们出口。 」

Murray 把他的所获引进澳门时十分谨慎 , 因为澳门对鸡尾酒文化的接受程度还未很开放 , 「我很担心贸然引进没有人听说过的蒙古伏特加， 风险太大，所以决定先寻找其他出色的产品，再 」 来引进 Chinggis Khan。 他的目标锁定获奖肯定的顶级烈酒。「我找 的是独立的手工酿酒商和啤酒生产商。现在，我 们已经网罗到一百五十个品牌，每个品牌背后都 有杰出的生产商，我与他们全都保持着十分密切 的关系。 」

Murray 认为澳门人，尤其是酒店从业人员， 非常向往有个地方可以下班后去放松一下，安安 静静喝杯小酒。「这个地方应该很休闲，但又带 点高档气息。我自己非常喜欢爱尔兰传统酒吧的 欢乐气氛，我们记住客人的名字，知道怎样能让 你感到舒服自在。 」

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SPIRITS

WENNEKER OUDE PROEVER OLD GENEVER The traditional Dutch liquor from which gin has evolved is known as genever, and one of its originators is Wenneker, founded in 1693. Their top-of-the-line Oude Proever Old Genever is the culmination of centuries of craftsmanship.

Made from a family recipe that includes select grains and juniper berries, the distillate with its range of spices is steeped for a minimum of three days in special pot stills. Then it is mixed with malt spirit, grain alcohol, and water before maturing for several years in American oak casks. The result is unusually smooth and complex flavor. The aroma, dramatically different from mass-market gin, is described by Murray as “grassy and almost medicinal.” In Murray’s cocktail named Oude Genever Tonic, the Wenneker is paired with original Fever-Tree tonic water. In any good gin and tonic, Murray explains, it is the nature of the gin that determines the tonic to be used, and a lesser one might overpower Wenneker’s nuanced flavors. The cocktail glass is rimmed with lime juice to complement the genever’s smoothness with a soft citrus note.

琴 酒 最 初 源 自 荷 兰， 称 为 genever， 而

Wenneker 是这种传统荷兰酒最早的酿造商 之一，成立于 1693 年，旗下最高档的酒款 是 Oude Proever Old Genever， 集 百 年 精 湛工艺之大成，根据祖传配方酿制，使用 精心挑选的谷物和杜松子，置于特殊的罐 式蒸馏器蒸馏，蒸馏出来的酒液浸泡多种 香料至少三天。接着混入麦酒、谷物酒和 水，装进美国橡木桶熟成数年，最后味道 异常顺口，风味复杂多元，香气迥然不同 于一般市面上大量生产的琴酒，Murray 形 容其为「有青草味，几近药味」 。 Murray 的酒单上有一款名为 Oude Genever Tonic 的调酒，以 Wenneker 的酒搭配口感纯净 的 Fever-Tree 通 宁 水。 Murray 解 释 说， 任何好的琴通宁，都是根据琴酒的性质来 决定要用哪种通宁水，次等通宁水可能抢 了 Wenneker 的细腻味道。酒杯杯口最后 抹上一圈柠檬汁，为 genever 的柔顺口感 增添一丝温和的柑橘味。

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THE LAST DROP 50 YEAR OLD BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY This remarkable whisky is the brainchild of James Espey, Tom Jago, and Peter Fleck, veterans in the spirits industry who are responsible for developing some of today’s most sought-after brands, including Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Chivas Regal 18 Year Old, The Classic Malts, Malibu, and Baileys Irish Cream. The three founded The Last Drop Distillers Limited with the aim of securing and bottling the finest and rarest of spirits, and The Last Drop 50 Year Old Blended Scotch is definitely its rarest. The story is that fifty years ago more than eighty-two whiskies were blended, many of them from distilleries long since vanished. The blend was left to mature, and most was bottled as a top-quality twelve-year-old whisky. But three barrels were forgotten at the warehouse, steadily improving over time. From this tiny reserve a total of just 338 bottles of The Last Drop 50 Year Old was produced.

It is presented in an Aston Martin leather box and comes with a 50 ml tasting sample. Only ten bottles remain in Asia, all of them at Prem1er Bar & Tasting Room, where each is offered at MOP88,000. “Take your time, respect the liquid, give it a chance,” Murray advises.

这款了不起的威士忌是 James Espey、Tom Jago 和 Peter Fleck 三位酒 界老将的心血结晶，他们三位曾在烈酒产业开发出多个当今最受追捧 的品牌，包括 Johnnie Walker 藍牌調和威士忌，芝华士 18 年苏格兰调 和威士忌，The Classic Malts、Malibu，百利甜酒。他们创办 The Last

Drop Distillers Limited，目的在搜罗和推出品质最好、最珍稀的烈酒， 而 The Last Drop 50 Year Old Blended Scotch 肯定是其中最珍稀的一 款。它的故事要从五十年前说起，当时有人混合了超过 82 款威士忌， 其中许多都是来自早已消失无踪的酒厂，混合后的酒装桶熟成，其中 大部分都被包装成顶级十二年威士忌售出，但有三桶被遗忘在仓库， 随着时间流逝，愈陈愈香。这少少的三桶最后酿成总共 338 瓶的 The Last Drop 50 Year Old。成品置于 Aston Martin 皮盒内，并附赠一瓶 50 毫升的样酒。亚洲现在只有十瓶，全部都在 Prem1er Bar & Tasting 「花点时间，展 Room，每瓶定价澳门币 88,000 元。 Murray 建议道 ： 现敬意，给它一个机会。 」

Bolormaa Ganbold, Operations Manager

SPIRITS

CHINGGIS KHAN VODKA This unique Mongolian-crafted vodka is named (with a more authentic spelling) in honor of Genghis Khan, founder of the Mongol Empire. Water used in its production is sourced from an ancient well in the highland city of Ulaanbataar. The raw product first undergoes a six-step distillation, then a process by which it is filtered continuously for ten days through charcoal, quartz, diamonds, pearls, and silver. Until Niall Murray brought it to Macau and Hong Kong, Chinggis Khan had never been exported from its homeland. “You won’t get a bad hangover from this,” says Murray, “because all the bad stuff is taken out.” The Chinggis Khantini, Prem1er Bar & Tasting Room’s take on the vodka martini, pairs the liquor with dry vermouth and garnishes it classically with an olive. The result has ultrasmooth, velvety body and creamy aroma.

这是举世无双的蒙古土产伏特加，它的命 名意在纪念蒙古帝国的建立者成吉思汗 （拼写方式更接近正确发音） 。制酒所用的 水源取自乌兰巴托高地城市内的一口古 井，基酒先经过六道步骤的蒸馏程序，然 后再以炭、石英、钻石、珍珠和银展开连 续十天的过滤过程。在 Niall Murray 把它 引进澳门和香港之前，Chinggis Khan 从未 「喝这 在本土以外地区出口。 Murray 说 ： 酒不会宿醉，因为所有坏东西都被过滤掉 了。 」The Chinggis Khantini, Prem1er Bar

& Tasting Room 用 Chinggis Khan 配以伏 特加马丁尼调制，搭配不甜的苦艾酒，再 饰以经典的橄榄，喝起来极为顺口，酒体 如天鹅绒般柔软，还带有奶油香气。

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SPIRITS

DICTADOR XO INSOLENT SOLERA SYSTEM RUM Destiliería Colombiana, the family-run company behind this premium spirit, was founded in Colombia in 1913, but its origin myth goes much further back. It is said that in the eighteenth century the Spaniard Severo Arango y Ferro came to Nueva Granada, as Colombia was called, to administer tax collections, and his forceful ways soon earned him the nickname Dictador. The story continues that he “discovered” rum, became its devotee, and eventually traded it extensively. In modern times, the company became a celebrated regional rum producer after years of research into both the Dictador legend and the best methods of distillation. In this century, the third generation of the family has globally expanded operations. At Prem1er Bar & Tasting Room, The Insolent Old Fashioned contains rum rather than scotch or bourbon and is garnished with a slice of orange, sour cherries, and a cinnamon stick. This quirky twist on a classic delivers a flavor profile that is bracing and sweet. As Murray explains, “We tasted and experimented until we found what worked.”

这款顶级烈酒品牌是由家族企业 Destiliería

Colombiana 管 理，Destiliería Colombiana 于 1913 年成立于哥伦比亚，但最初起源 可以追溯至更早。据说，西班牙人 Severo

Arango y Ferro 在十八世纪来到新格瑞纳 达 ( 哥伦比亚旧称 ) 掌理税收，他的铁腕 手段很快就为他赢得 Dictador ( 独裁者 ) 的称号。后来，他「发现」了兰姆酒，迷 上这种酒的滋味，最后还将它销往许多地 方。近代以来，该公司努力钻研 Dictador 传奇和最佳蒸馏方法，多年有成，终于成 为当地著名的兰姆酒生产商。进入本世纪 后，第三代传人将业务拓展至全球市场。 在 Prem1er Bar & Tasting Room，Insolent

Old Fashioned 用的是兰姆酒，而非苏格兰 威士忌或波本威士忌，然后饰以橙片、酸 樱桃和肉桂棒。这款灵感来自经典调酒但 做法有点怪异的创意调酒，喝起来让人神 「我 清气爽之余，又带点甜味。 Murray 说： 们测试不同配搭，最后才找到对的味道。 」

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Norjoo Ganbold (top) Anuka Dorjpurev (bottom)

年份香槟 三重丰盈

the three plénitudes of dom pérignon Mamie Chen discovers why the maker of a legendary Champagne has the patience to wait for the unexpected.

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VINTAGES

Plénitude of Harmony

DOM PÉRIGNON P1

I “ n the first plénitude, the vintage comes to light for the first time, showcasing perfect equilibrium. All the elements are present with great relevance, revealing the harmony of Dom Pérignon. The wine is complete, rhythmic, tactile.”

「第一次丰盛阶段(plénitude)时，香槟首 次绽放光芒，酒身达到完美平衡。所有要件发 挥最大效益，展现 Dom Pérignon无可 挑剔的协调性，有韵致、实感，完整。」

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VINTAGES

Quiet, youthful, and full of light and harmony, Dodo Lau leads guests, by

DAVID HARTUNG

subtle movements and stances, on a

T H E L E G E N D S A N D L O R E surrounding a classic and time-honored luxury brand like Dom Pérignon are bound to include an occasional romantic exaggeration. For instance, Benedictine monk Pierre Pérignon wasn’t actually the first person to make a sparkling wine, and he may not have likened the experience of imbibing the libation to “drinking the stars.” But there is no doubt that Pérignon was a winemaking pioneer, an early master blender of grapes from multiple vineyards who succeeded in creating a perfectly balanced and distinctive Champagne.

His legacy of leadership and innovation has continued down the years among all those who have taken up the mantle of Chef de Cave at Dom Pérignon. They have had the wisdom and foresight to safeguard notable vintages dating back to 1921 in their oenothèque , or wine library. And frequent tastings over time have led to an amazing discovery. All Champagnes are aged in a process known as “resting on the lees” (lees being deposits from the yeast that produced the bubbles) until the bottles are opened, disgorged of the lees, and resealed for sale. Dom Pérignon’s vintages are elaborated over a minimum of nine years before they are deemed ready for release, but the master winemakers found that when their Champagnes are rested on the lees beyond the first decade, they continue to develop without deterioration.

symbolic journey through the Abbey of Hautvillers to the first plénitude. 沉静、年轻、明亮且充满和谐，刘惠珊 (Dodo Lau)以轻柔动作及姿势引领宾客踏 上幻想旅程，犹如置身法国Hautvillers修道 院，体验第一次丰盛阶段(plénitude)之美。

Dom Pérignon 一如其他历经时间考验、倍受 推崇的经典奢华品牌，围绕在身边的各种故 事及传说一定少不了浮夸的浪漫元素。例如， 本笃会修士 Pierre Pérignon 其实并非发明此 气泡酒的第一人，也可能从未说出享用香槟 如「啜饮繁星」如此优美的比拟。但他率先 混酿多个庄园葡萄种，创造出酒体平衡、风 格独具的醇美香槟，酿酒先驱的地位绝对不 可动摇。 他的领导风范及创新精神历久不衰，更 由 Dom Pérignon 历 代 酒 窖 总 监 接 手 传 承。 他们深谋远虑，慧眼保存珍贵佳酿，在自家

oenothèque ( 葡萄酒图书馆 ) 的珍藏中，保 有最早可追溯到 1921 年酿造的陈年葡萄酒。 多年下来，总监们透过反覆品评发现了美酒 的奥秘所在。所有香槟均经过所谓 「酒渣 (lees) 陈酿」( 意指产生泡沫的酵母沉淀物 ) 过程洗 礼，后才开瓶、除渣，重新封装贩售。 Dom

Pérignon 香槟上市前至少须经九年熟成，不 过资深酿酒师也发现，带渣陈酿超过 10 年的 香槟仍可持续熟成，未见任何劣化迹象。 seasoned with song

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VINTAGES

The improvement is not a steady, linear process – it happens in quantum leaps known as “plénitudes.” The second plénitude occurs after about sixteen years on the lees and the third after about twenty-five years.

Each plénitude becomes a new expression of the individual vintage, either magnifying the original characteristics or revealing contrasting aspects from within the full spectrum.

Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy waves off any attempt to ascribe the development of plenitudes to him. “It is a natural occurrence that has been in the works for centuries,” he says. “The major requirements are time and patience.” In fact, because of the quality of their grapes and vintages, all Dom Pérignon Champagnes are capable of reaching the second and third plénitudes. “ The potential to reach P2 and P3 , the second and third plénitudes, is a criterion that is an integral part of the decision to declare a vintage,” says Geoffroy.

Plénitude of Energy

With strong, quick, explosive jumps and

DOM PÉRIGNON P2

thrusts, Mao Wei embodies the power and energy that are building up during the

I “ n the second plénitude, the wine is even more expansive, expressing energy. The assemblage’s opposite and complementary elements resonate with each other, generating a captivating and intriguing new energy. The second plénitude is marked by the impudence and radiance of youth, but it is its energy that stands out, the energy of transformation and expansion.”

maturation of the second plénitude. 强烈、快速，极具爆发力的跳跃及突进，毛维 (Mao Wei)体现了第二次丰盛阶段(plénitude) 熟成期间积累的强大力量及能量。

「进入第二次丰盛阶段(plénitude)，香槟涵盖范围更广，尽 展蕴含的内在能量。对比及互补的元素之间交错回荡，激发引 人入胜的全新灵魂。P2以年轻的光芒及大无畏的精神广为人 知，但其中最具代表性的特点仍是能量－转变的充沛能量。」

然而这并非全然稳定、单纯的线性过程， 唯有达到所谓「丰盛阶段 (plénitudes)」的巨 大突破才能发生效应，第二次丰盛阶段约于 第三次则要需时约 25 年。 进入第 16 年时发生， 每次丰盛阶段对于个别香槟而言都是脱胎换 骨的体验，可能为酒身带来全面提升或进一 步呈现层次对比。

Dom Pérignon 首 席 酿 酒 师 Richard Geoffroy 对于导入丰盛阶段的技术及发展毫 不居功，他表示 ： 「这只是沿用超过数个世纪 不可或缺的要件。 」正因拥有优质葡萄和年份， 所有 Dom Pérignon 香槟都能达到第二和第三 次的黄金阶段。 「能否达到 P2 及 P3 的境界， 决定了香槟有否扛起顶级佳酿招牌的资格。 」

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的自然酿造传统。其中，时间及耐心是两大

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Shrouded at first in darkness and mystery, then illuminated by a flash of light and accompanied by music of rising intensity, Melody Rose, with her layered costume and intricate choreography, evokes the rich complexity of the third plénitude. 从一开始笼罩于阴暗及神秘氛围，到伴随渐强乐声闪进一道光芒、满室明亮，身着多层次 服装的Melody Rose用复杂的舞蹈动作象征第三次丰盛阶段(plénitude)丰富的繁复性。

但荣誉应当属于有功之人。在 Geoffroy 的主导下，P2 及 P3 系列香槟得以开发并正式 上市，成为 Dom Pérignon 家族新的成员。这 在当初可说是相当大胆的策略，即自 90 年代 开始囤积大量香槟，以长时间换取可达到第二 及第三丰盛阶段的佳酿。 不 过 很 显 然， 这 种 不 确 定 性 反 而 让 「惊喜就是其 Geoffroy 甘 之 如 饴。 他 解 释 ： 中一环。个别香槟的特性也好，乃至于丰盛 阶段的持续性，都是让我们一探不可预期的 领域。对比香槟业一向尊崇稳定性及客观性 的传统而言，Dom Pérignon 则是奉这种不确 定性为圭臬。我们不自满，也不愿裹足不前。 每年都要创新研发！这也是 Dom Pérignon 屹 立不摇的原因所在。 」

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But credit must be given where it is due, and it is under Geoffroy’s stewardship that the P2 and P3 series have been created and released as a new tier in the Dom Pérignon lineup. The strategy is not without risk – significant quantities of wines have been withheld since the 1990s to allow them the longer elaborations needed to reach the second and third plénitudes.

But Geoffroy appears to actually revel in the uncertainty. “Surprise is part of the game. These wines are about discovering the unexpected, first with the character of the individual vintage and then with the succession of plénitudes,” he says. “While the core of the Champagne business is more often about consistency and objectivity, Dom Pérignon is about glorifying the discontinuities. We can’t be complacent or hesitant.

Reinvention every year! That’s what makes our brand so strong.”

DAVID HARTUNG

VINTAGES

Plénitude of Complexity

DOM PÉRIGNON P3

“The third plénitude, the revelation of the spirit of Dom Pérignon, is darker, more complex, and streamlined. It is also the plénitude of radiance, something that is seamless and continues on and on. It is the ideal of Dom Pérignon.”

「第三次丰盛阶段(plénitude)直捣Dom Pérignon 幽暗、繁琐、层层叠叠的核心，然而P3也代表了无穷绽放 的美丽花火，毫无止尽，这正是Dom Pérignon的终极 理想境界。」

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PRESENTED BY JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL

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敬团队一杯

toasting the team When a crazy day is done, it’s time to connect over a quiet glass of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

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China Tang, a cool oasis of refinement and elegance above the hectic hustle of the surrounding business district, is tucked away on the fourth floor of centrally located Landmark Atrium. A sophisticated study in contrasts, the restaurant simultaneously evokes nostalgia for a bygone era and a zest for the here and now. The décor effortlessly integrates eighteenth century chinoiserie with Art Deco accents and modern pieces. A large main dining room suits the see-and-be-seen crowd, while six private rooms gratify more discreet tastes.

The menu redefines classic dishes with lavish ingredients and innovative techniques, and service is exemplary, both warmly attentive and impeccably professional. § After a particularly busy week of full dining rooms and endless VIPs, Executive Chef Albert Au, Events and Marketing Manager Sheila Dupaya, and Bar Manager Zack Lee sit down to take a breather, touch base, and share a drink in good company.

§ 唐人馆隐身在置地广场中庭四楼，

在周围商业区的繁忙喧嚣中，俨然是座精致典雅的清凉绿洲。餐厅设计 充满细腻微妙的对比，既唤起缅怀过往时光的怀旧心情，也让人感受到

Marketing Manager Sheila Dupaya 市场经理

术风格和现代艺术作品。大 厅适合喜欢热闹的客人，六 间包厢则可满足想要多点隐 私的人士。他们的菜单以丰 富食材和创新技术重新定义 经典佳肴，服务更是业界 标竿，热情周到又不失专 业。§ 过去一周大厅天天客 满，包厢贵宾让人应接不 暇，所幸再忙总有结束的时 候，行政总厨欧国强(Albert) 、市场经理Sheila Dupaya和 酒吧经理李耀锋 (Zack) 终于 有空坐下来喘口气，聊聊心 Bar Manager Zack Lee ​ 酒吧经理李耀锋

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情，一起喝杯好酒。

ALBERT: 我觉得以后工作结束，我们 都可以像今天这样一起喝杯餐后酒，让大 脑放松，暂时抛开一切。你知道厨房忙起 来有多可怕，所有事情全部一拥而上，我 知道前台也是这样。每个人都需要像这样 的一段时间，在工作全部结束之后，坐下 来聊聊天，让我有机会更加认识你们。 ZACK: 我觉得我们真的很幸运，能有 这么一个紧密团队，而且这么认真，这么 聪明！这绝对是我每天最值得高兴的部分。 SHEILA: 每当餐厅终于熄灯，混乱结 束，一切归于平静的时候，我们可以卸下 工作，停下脚步，收起职业笑容，做回自 己。好，Albert，你做回 Albert，Zack 做回 Zack，我做回我自己。 ZACK: 说 真 的， 我 很 期 待 一 天 结 束， 与你们联络感情的时刻，我们需要这种时 刻。虽然整天一起工作，但大家各忙各的， 没有什么机会交心。幸好我们下班后都没 有急着离开，这是好现象，我们想留下来， 看看大家今天过得怎样。 SHEILA: 对呀，这在特别忙碌的时候 真的很重要。工作轻松的日子，每个人都 想赶快下班回家。像这样的日子，忙到虚脱，

DAVID HARTUNG (3 + PREVIOUS PAGE )

今时今地的时尚魅力。装潢以十八世纪的中国古典风情巧妙结合装饰艺

PRESENTED BY JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL

我觉得以后工作结束，我们都可以像今天 这样一起喝杯餐后酒，让大脑放松，暂时抛开一切。

整个人心力憔悴。这时我们才会环顾四周 说： 「嘿，来喝一杯吧。」 ALBERT: 因为我们真的很努力想让大 家有个好回忆，顾客来到这里都是为了庆 贺重要时刻，他们想要吃点特别的，来向 他们所关心的人表达感谢，而在历经漫长 的一天后，我认为大家聚在一起做点事， 感谢团队又安然度过一天，而且表现出色， 这种做法真的很棒。 ZACK: 感觉很像向你身边的工作伙伴

敬酒，因为你很庆幸有他们挺你。 SHEILA: 一个人不可能自己应付一切， 满足客人的所有要求。我很感激​​我 们有这 么好的团队，也是朋友，真的。一天结束， 我走进酒吧，Zack 已经帮我把酒倒好。 ZACK: Sheila 喝琴通宁，Albert 喝 Bordeaux 或 Johnnie Walker 蓝牌调和威士忌。 ALBERT: 没错，我喜欢需要时间品味 的酒，我爱慢慢啜饮，品尝，体验里面的 每种滋味和香气。

SHEILA: 我 也 是。 我 觉 得 威 士 忌 跟 Albert 做的下酒菜最搭。我最爱的是这道 避风塘鱼皮，辣得带劲，而且味道很多层 次，跟威士忌的香气和滑顺最为搭配。 ZACK: 现在我好想来点威士忌，搭配 Albert 的烤乳猪和黑松露！ ALBERT: 其实，我很想设计一份完整 的老饕菜单来搭配 Johnnie Walker 蓝牌调 和威士忌，你们何不贡献一些点子呢？

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行政总厨欧国强

ALBERT: I think we can all use a digestif like this at the end of a day like today – just to let our brains unwind and let go of it all. You know how hectic things get in the kitchen when everything’s happening all at once – I know it’s the same for you out front. Everybody needs some time like this to sit down after it’s all over and talk out the day. And I know it gives me the chance to get to know you better.

ZACK: I say we’re really lucky to have a team that’s so tight – and so focused and so smart! This is definitely my favorite part of the day.

SHEILA: When the place is finally dark and everything’s quiet. The chaos is over and we can plop down, chill, and be ourselves without the game face. OK – Albert, you be Albert, Zack be Zack, and I’ll be myself.

ZACK: I have to say I wait for this final connection with you guys – we need it. We may work together all day long, but we’re really doing totally different things and we

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Executive Chef Albert Au

don’t get a chance to connect on a personal level all that much. It’s a good sign that we’re not all trying to get out of here as soon as possible – we want to stick around and see how everybody’s doing.

SHEILA: And it’s really important on the crazy days. On the light ones, everybody just wants to get out of here and go home. On a day like this, we’re worn out – I’m mentally exhausted. That’s when we look around and say, “Hey, let’s have a drink.”

ALBERT: Because we really do work hard to give people something to remember – they’re here for their important occasion.

They want something special as a way of saying thanks to the people they care about, and after a long day I think it’s really good for us to have a way to say thanks to our team for getting through another day and doing such a great job.

ZACK: You really feel like toasting the people on your right and left because you’re so glad they were there.

SHEILA: I mean one person on their own just can’t deal with everything that goes on and everything the customers want. I’m grateful we’ve got this team – friends, really.

I’ll walk into the bar at the end of the day and Zack is already pouring my drink.

ZACK: Gin and tonic for Sheila, old Bordeaux or Johnnie Walker Blue Label for Albert.

ALBERT: Right, I like drinks that take time – I want something I can slowly sip and savor and take in every flavor and aroma.

SHEILA: Me too. I would definitely have whisky with these snacks of yours, Albert.

This is my favorite – bei fun tong fish skin.

It’s got that spicy thing going and all those different layers of flavor. It works just right with the fragrance and the smoothness of the whisky.

ZACK: Right now I’d like to have some of it with Albert’s suckling pig and black truffle!

ALBERT: Actually, I do want to come up with a whole tasting menu to pair with Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Why don’t you guys give me your ideas?

PRESENTED BY JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL

I think we can all use a digestif like this

at the end of a day like today – just to

let our brains unwind and let go of it all.

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Aurora ​ 奥罗拉 Italian 10/F, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路澳门新濠锋10楼 q +853 2886 8868 Tue to Sat: 12:00-14:00; 18:30-22:30 Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:30 A Smart Casual 5

China Tang Hong Kong​ 唐人馆 Chinese Shop 411-413, 4/F., Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环中环皇后大道中15号置地广场4楼 411-413号 q +852 2522 2148 Daily: 12:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Ebb & Flow Bar & Lounge The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号香港柏宁铂尔曼 酒店地下 q +852 2839 3377 Daily: 08:00-01:00 A Smart Casual 5

Jade Orchid ​ 玉兰苑 (Opening soon) 5 Shanghai cuisine Mezzanine Floor, Harbourview Hotel, Macau Fisherman’s Wharf, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Macau 澳门孙逸仙大马路澳门渔人码头励庭海景 酒店阁楼

Lai Heen​ 丽轩 Classic Cantonese 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Macau 澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店51层 q +853 8886 6868 Tue to Sun: 11:30-14:30;17:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

MyHouse Wine. Music. Dining 202 Queen’s Road East, 26/F QRE Plaza, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔皇后大道东202号QRE Plaza 26楼 q +852 2323 1715 Tue to Wed:18:00-02:00;

DAVID HARTUNG

5

Thur to Sat:18:00-03:00

The Afternoon Tea Set at Ebb & Flow Ebb & Flow 精选下午茶

Prem1er Bar and Tasting Room​ 佳酿

86, Rua Direita Carlos Eugenio, Old Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔旧城区嘉模堂区施督宪正街86号 q +853 2882 7109

Shinji by Kanesaka ​ 金坂极上寿司

Japanese 1/F, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒 店1楼 q +853 8868 7300 Lunch : Thur to Mon: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: Wed to Mon: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Shoku Japanese Binchotan Grill ​ 笑酷和味炭烧

Japanese and Seafood G/F, Shop 109, Beachfront, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong 香港浅水湾海滩道26-30号The Pulse地下 109铺 q +853 2808 2333 Mon to Thur: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30 Fri: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:30 Sat: 12:00-23:30 Sun: 11:30-22:00 5

The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge​ 丽思酒廊 Bar and Lounge 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Macau 澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店51层 q +853 8886 6868 Sun to Thur: 10:00-01:00; Fri to Sat:10:00-02:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Ritz-Carlton Café​ 丽思咖啡厅 French Brasserie G/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Macau 澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店地下 q +853 8886 6868 Sun to Thur: 10:00-22:30; Fri to Sat: 10:00-23:30 A Smart Casual 5

Vida Rica Restaurant ​ 御苑餐厅 Chinese & Western 2/F Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华 东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8919 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

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Tasting the 品尝繁星

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presented by ProWine China 2015

China’s largest wine and spirits trade show celebrates one of France’s proudest products.

COURTESY OF PROWINE CHINA ( TOP LEFT ), SHUTTERSTOCK .COM ( TOP RIGHT, BOTTOM LEFT ), OMITÉ RÉGIONAL DU TOURISME D’AQUITAINE (BOTTOM RIGHT )

Stars ProWine China 2015, with the support of CCI Champagne-Ardenne, is pleased to welcome for the first time ten premium producers of Champagne to Champagne Avenue in the French Pavilion, November 11-13 in Shanghai.

Visitors to the show will be privileged to meet the producers and sample a selection of their finest labels.

The story of Champagne begins in the seventeenth century with a monk named Dom Perignon. Legend records that with his first rapturous sip of the sparkling wine he exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!” As with many triumphant discoveries, the creation of Champagne was an accident. Cooler temperatures in the province of Champagne interrupted the wine’s fermentation until it started again in the spring. This double fermentation was the secret to the wine’s delightful effervescence.

Not until the twentieth century were the name and production methods of Champagne formally regulated. Since then, the trademarked designation is legally permitted only on bottles originating in the region of Champagne in northeastern France.

Seven major houses supply 50 percent of the total global output, while another 5,000 smaller companies provide the remainder, labels that are often rare and highly valued.

Among the producers who will present their wines on Champagne Avenue this year will be Champagne Maxime Blin from Trigny,

in the heart of the Massif de Saint Thierry; Champagne Aspasie, a family estate dating to 1794; Champagne Lhuillier, with a domain divided over twelve villages; Champagne Gyejacquot, founded in 1970 in the heart of the Aube district; Champagne Poissinet, with seven hectares on both sides of the Marne Valley; Champagne Xavier Leconte, whose grapes are all processed in their traditional Coquard press; and Champagne Terroir Association,representing five different Champagne houses.

In addition to Champagne, Business France will host at the French Pavilion more than seventy-five companies representing wines from all regions, as well as spirits like vodka and Cognac.

Coco Chanel is said to have once confessed, “I only drink Champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.” This November, ProWine China 2015 will be offering yet another occasion to celebrate with Champagne.

Dom Perignon 所发明。据说他喝下这气泡酒 后惊为天人，直呼 ： 「大家快来，我在品尝天 上星星！」但一如许多其他伟大发现，香槟问 世也纯属意外。法国香槟省偏凉的温度，会在 秋冬季中断香槟的发酵过程，直到春天才继续 作用，此一双重发酵正是香槟的秘密所在。 但香槟此一名称及酿造方法却要迟至 20 世纪才有明文正式规定，自此之后，仅限法 国东北部香槟区生产的香槟可合法使用特定 商标。该区七大主要酒厂负责供应满足全球 将近一半的需求，其余部分则由 5,000 家中 小型酿酒厂支应。而附上商标的通常较为稀 有、价格也因此较高。 今年将于香槟大道展示的酿酒商包括位 于 Massif de Saint Thierry 心 脏 地 带、 来 自

Trigny 的「Champagne Maxime Blin」；家 族 葡 萄 园 历 史 可 溯 至 1794 年 的「Champagne Aspasie」； 庄 园 范 围 横 跨 12 个 村 落 的 「Champagne Lhuillier」；位 在 Aube 区 中 心、 1970 年 创 立 的「Champagne Gyejacquot」； 于 Marne 山 谷 两 端 坐 拥 7 公 顷 广 大 土 地 的「Champagne Poissinet」； 以 及 坚 持 所 有 葡 萄 仍 以 传 统 Coquard 压 榨 机 处 理 的「 Champagne Xavier Leconte」。

2015 年 国 际 葡 萄 酒 和 烈 酒 贸 易 展 览 会

除了香槟之外，法国馆也在法国商务投

(ProWine China) 获得法国香槟 - 亚丁省工商

资署 (Business France) 统筹之下，安排超过

会大力支持，首度邀得该区十大顶级香槟酿

75 家厂商展示来自各地区的葡萄酒，以及伏

酒商参展，11 月 11 日至 13 日将于上海展馆的

特加和干邑白兰地等烈酒。

法国馆香槟大道上盛大展出。观展来宾有机

香奈儿女士也曾分享对于香槟的特殊情

会与酿酒商面对面接触，一尝各家精选佳酿

感： 「我通常只在两种情况下喝香槟，热恋中

的美妙滋味。

或 不 谈 恋 爱 的 时 候。 」 今 年 11 月，ProWine

香 槟 相 传 源 自 17 世 纪， 由 本 笃 会 修 士

China 2015 邀请您一起以香槟同欢。

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Anuka Dorjpurev, a student at the University of Saint Joseph, Macau, enjoys an Insolent Old Fashioned at Prem1er Bar and Tasting Room. An unusual spin on the classic cocktail, the drink was created by the bar’s owner Niall Murray.

It casts aside whisky and instead features Colombian-made Dictador XO Insolent Solera System Rum. All the other usual ingredients in the drink remain, like angostura bitters, sugar, orange slice, sour cherries and a cinnamon stick. 澳门圣若瑟大学学生Anuka Dorjpurev在Prem1er Bar and Tasting Room 品尝一杯Insolent Old Fashioned。酒吧老板 Niall Murray颠覆了这杯调酒的传统作法，创造出迥异的全新版本。不用威士忌，他选择来自哥伦比亚的Dictador XO Insolent Solera System兰姆酒作为基底，其他成分则维持不变，包括安哥斯图娜苦酒、糖、柳橙片、酸樱桃和肉桂棒。

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DAVID HARTUNG

LAST CALL

TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

(Th

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et Br ot h , s) er na Ka

en pe www.bugholzm r.27, öb el. at

”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com