TK21 Auspicious Tastes

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 21

K I T C H E N

A U S P I C I O U S T A S T E S

CHINA

Auspiciously Delicious 年味大赏 KOWLOON

Auspicious Stars 三星庆祥年

HONG KONG

Auspicious Tastes 美馔贺正

STARTER

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This amuse-bouche opener from The Woods in Hong Kong successfully combines unexpected flavors and textures, a trait characteristic of the entire cocktail pairing menu. Abalone is cooked sous-vide and served in a miso sauce, with fried kale on the side. It accompanies a cocktail made with sake and squid ink. 香港时尚酒吧 The Woods 的这道餐前小点，成功地带出了让人喜出望外的风味和口感，这正是整份下酒菜单的 主要特色。经过真空烹调的鲍鱼上淋着味噌酱，佐酥炸甘蓝菜，再搭配由清酒和墨鱼汁调制而成的鸡尾酒。

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DAVID HARTUNG

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T A S T I N G

K I T C H E N

A U S P I C I O U S

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T A S T E S

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3915 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Andrea Lo

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Barbra Austin

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Catherine Shaw

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Chris Dwyer

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Eddie McDougall

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Lucy Morgan

TRANSLATION SERVICES

Icy Ip

Jane Wong

Mamie Hsien Chen

Babel Communications

CHINESE EDITOR

ACCOUNTANT

Victoria Lei

Terrie Lam

ASSISTANT EDITOR

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Crystal Chan Pek Wong

Inara Sim Jane Ram

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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PRINTING

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Chai Wan, Hong Kong

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T A S T I N G 21

K I T C H E N

A U S P I C I O U S T A S T E S

In presenting a dish of expertly braised abalone, fish maw, and sea cucumber, Chef de Cuisine Lam Yuk Ming of Pearl Dragon at Studio City Macau proves that he is equally skilled at preparing rare Chinese delicacies and at playing the Chinese New Year name game. Learn more about auspicious ingredients and Chinese New Year traditions starting on page 56. 澳门新濠影汇玥龙轩的总厨林钰明正向我们呈现这道由鲍鱼、花胶和关 东辽参等食材熬制而成的“纯阳至补”。在展现纯熟老道的中式珍馐烹调 技艺的同时，也表现出他对新年喜庆菜肴命名游戏的乐此不疲。想了解 更多与节庆食材有关详情及中国农历新年的传统介绍请翻至本刊56页。

CHINA

Auspiciously Delicious 年味大赏 KOWLOON

Auspicious Stars 三星庆祥年

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HONG KONG

Auspicious Tastes 美馔贺正

TK | auspicious tastes

Photography by David Hartung

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2016 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Auspicious Tastes, TK celebrates Chinese New Year, its rich traditions, its meaningful dishes.

First we meet with the founder of Ruyi Gastronomy, whose initiative to showcase the sumptuous traditions and contemporary renaissance of sophisticated Chinese fine dining is a collaboration between Legle tableware and some of Asia’s leading restaurants. In Kowloon we visit with Executive Chef Kwong Wai Keung, under whose leadership T’ang Court at The Langham has recently become only the third Cantonese restaurant in the world to achieve three Michelin stars. He shares several delicious and auspicious Chinese New Year creations, all of which exemplify his deep understanding of traditional techniques and his focus on healthy natural ingredients.

In our cover essay, Jane Ram presents a kaleidoscope of Chinese New Year vignettes, from tips on how to bribe the Kitchen God and make the best bean curd skin to the warm story of a festive New Year’s Eve shared by stranded colleagues at a Guangzhou factory when cold and snow blocked the train lines home.

Back in Hong Kong, we visit three of the city’s most respected Chinese restaurants to find out how traditional foods of the season, from lucky sea moss to tonifying abalone, are imbued with auspicious connotations for the New Year.

And accompanying this issue is a special Gourmet Guide to the wide array of dining choices at three of Macau’s top resorts: Studio City, City of Dreams, and Altira.

Two featured restaurants, Tasting Room and Jade Dragon, have recently been raised

by Michelin to well-earned two-star status.

DAVID HARTUNG

Kung Hei Fat Choi.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 8 Harmony and Balance • 10 Pop-Up Speakeasy • 12 Mix and Mingle • 16 Get On the Stick 18 Gold Standard • 20 Strangeware • 24 Conceptual Icing • 26 Undercover Lounging 30 Culinary Constellation • 38 Star Quality • 44 Ruyi Renaissance

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44

CONTENTS

50 Auspicious Stars • 56 Auspiciously Delicious • 64 Auspicious Tastes • 78 Even Better 82 Best of the Brunch • 86 New Memories • 90 Fine Wine • 92 Middle Kingdom Vineyards 94 Experimental Mixology • 98 The Perfect Serve • 102 Into the Woods 110 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 112 D E S S E R T

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TASTING NEWS

平衡和谐

harmony and balance A master of kung fu leads guests on a restorative journey to wellness.

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少林功夫大师亲自授课，为您打造养生之旅， 开创健康人生。 十一月下旬，澳门文华东方酒店水疗中 心诚邀少林功夫大师虎师傅亲临开班授课，传 授众人如何藉由各式养生课程放松身心、恢复 精气神。 虎师傅藉由课程推广茶道与养生饮食， 以太极、气功和静坐冥想等方式让人们关注重 视身心平衡。 虎师傅表示 ： 「人非机器，我们需要检查 自己的电池、需要充电，你每天都必须自我检 查，问问自己 ： 『心，你好吗？』每个人都需 要抽点时间静坐冥想，问问自己这些问题。 」 虎师傅将于水疗池畔进行太极、气功和 静坐冥想课程，也会教授品茗与禅茶之道，让 参与学员在宁静中净化心灵，学习与整个宇宙 和谐共处，虎师傅指出 ： 「禅茶不是表演或是 为他人所做的仪式，而是在过程中汇聚自己体 内第六种能量，我此行便是要教导大家如何平 衡体内能量与情绪，以及其重要性，人无时无 刻不受情绪所影响，因此我们必须学会如何让 情绪达到平衡。 」 虎师傅出生于河南少林寺近郊，自七岁 起入寺习艺，追随其叔父释德宇习武，释德宇 乃少林寺第 31 代大师，因此虎师傅精通各式 少林武术，已受少林传统熏陶逾二十载。 虎师傅表示 ： 「要达到平衡，必须让自然 主宰一切，我们必须与山林天地合而为一，必 须用心感受水流、倾听鸟鸣与天雨，才能真正 促进谐和身心，因为我们的感官会从大自然中 汲取能量。 」

DAVID HARTUNG

IN LATE NOVEMBER, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Macau hosted Master Hu, a leading expert in the ancient discipline of Shaolin kung fu, for a series of wellness workshops that focused on relaxing the mind and reviving the senses.

His talks to promote well-being emphasized the positive effects of tea and healthy food on both body and mind, and he encouraged the restoration of spiritual balance through tai chi, qi gong, and meditation.

“We are not machines,” says Master Hu. “We need to check our batteries. We need to recharge. Every day you must check yourself: ‘How are you, my heart?’ People need to make time to meditate and ask these questions.”

The master led poolside classes in tai chi, qi gong, and meditation. He also conducted tea tastings and lectures on the Zen tea ceremony, a quiet interlude for seeking spiritual refreshment and harmony with the universe. “Zen tea is not for show or for other people,” he points out. “It’s a special collection of your sixth energy. I’ve come to show people how to balance energy and emotion and why it is so important. Our emotions move us all around constantly and we need to learn how to balance ourselves.”

Born in a small village near the Shaolin Temple in Henan province, Master Hu entered the Shaolin Martial Arts Training Centre at the age of seven and was trained by his uncle, a thirty-first generation kung fu master, in all aspects of the discipline for over twenty years.

“To achieve balance, you must let nature become the master,” he says. “We must be unified with the mountains, with the sky. We cannot be balanced without the birdsongs, the water, the rain – our senses receive all their energy from nature.”

隐密酒吧

pop-up speakeasy One of New York City’s most beloved hideaways finds its doppelgänger in Hong Kong.

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holes and was voted World’s Best Bar in 2011.

For the pop-up, MO Bar will transform The Shell, a small room above the stairs, into a space that recreates the original in painstaking detail, complete with hidden entrance through a vintage phone booth, just like its prototype.

Patrons can expect a dozen drinks on the menu, including some special concoctions created for the event, as well as PDT classics. The Benton’s Old Fashioned consists of bacon-infused Bulleit Bourbon, bitters, and maple syrup.

The Cardinal is an aperitif made with

Tanqueray No. Ten, Casoni aperitivo, Italian sweet vermouth, and juice of grapefruit and lemon.

Richard Ekkebus, Director of Culinary Operations & Food and Beverage, who also helms the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant Amber, has invited some of Hong Kong’s other top chefs to create a special menu of hot dogs, with proceeds going to charity. Please Don’t Tell founder Jim Meehan, author of The PDT Cocktail Book , will be creating drinks behind the bar alongside Jeff Bell, General Manager of PDT, who was named World Class USA Bartender of the Year 2013.

ED ANDERSON

PLEASE DON’T TELL , the legendary New York City bar, is being cloned at T he Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.

The pop-up, happening at MO Bar through the end of January, is a partnership between the luxury hotel and the Diageo Reserve World Class portfolio of premium spirits.

MO Bar frequently plays host to special events, often importing illustrious lists of bartenders and mixologists from around the world. But the collaboration with PDT will be the first of its kind for both the renowned hotel bar and the famous speakeasy.

Please Don’t Tell, in New York’s East Village, is one of the city’s storied watering

TASTING NEWS

纽约市传奇的地下酒吧 Please Don’t Tell (PDT) 登陆香港！于香港置地文华东方酒店开设 pop

up 酒吧，一月底即将在 MO Bar 开幕。此次 合作项目为置地文华东方酒店与 World Class Diageo Reserve 的高级烈酒系列携手呈献。 MO Bar 经常举办各种特色活动，邀请来 自世界各地著名的酒保和调酒师，但却是首

NOAH KALINA, ADDIE CHIN

度与名满天下的 PDT 地下酒吧合作。

Please Don’t Tell 位 于 纽 约 东 村， 是 纽

包括专为此次合作设计的特色调酒以及 PDT

酒店知名餐厅 Amber 的 Richard Ekkebus 邀请

约的传奇酒吧之一，曾获选为 2011 年全球最

的经典酒款。例如 Benton’s Old Fashioned 用

了香港数位顶尖厨师创作独特的热狗餐单，部 分所得将捐作慈善用途。此外，Please Don’t

。为了迎接 PDT， 佳酒吧（World’s Best Bar）

加了培根熏肉泡浸的波旁威士忌、苦精、枫

MO Bar 将改装阶梯上方的小房间 The Shell，

糖 浆 调 制， 开 胃 酒 Cardinal 则 由 Tanqueray

Tell 创办人兼《PDT Cocktail Book》鸡尾酒大

模仿原版酒吧的所有细节，连隐匿入口处的

No. Ten、Casoni 餐前酒、意大利红苦艾酒、

全的作者 Jim Meehan，将与荣获 2013 年美国

电话亭都如出一辙。

柚子和柠檬汁制成。

World Class 最佳调酒师的 PDT 总经理 Jeff Bell

而且香港 PDT 将提供 12 款独有的饮料，

香港置地文华东方酒店厨艺总监，掌管

亲自在吧台后方为宾客调制鸡尾酒。 auspicious tastes

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调酒混搭正时兴

mix and mingle Hong Kong’s F&B elite are shaken and stirred by a new monthly event hosted by KEE Hong Kong and TK magazine.

“WE INVITE KEY PLAYERS in the industry to

the Club the first Monday of every month,” explains Matthias Eder, Operations Manager, KEE Hong Kong. “It’s a fabulous networking opportunity. We’re generously sponsored by a different beverage company each time, and we mix cocktails showcasing their liquor of choice. After an hour or so of free-flow drinks, snacks, and conversation, we host the Black Bag Mixology Challenge, a cocktail competition with a difference.

Four- and five-star mixologists are invited to combine the sponsored product of the night with a set of mystery ingredients – chosen by me,” he appends with a wicked grin.

Eder, an experienced mixologist himself, pulls no punches in choosing things that will prove challenging. “These are talented bartenders – I want to push them. I think hard and I’m a little mean.”

Once they’ve been handed their own individual bags of unknowns, competitors have five minutes to think. They can help themselves to anything from the club’s well-stocked bar, and then they have another five minutes to mix, using any techniques they like.

The winner is chosen by a panel of experts: Mark Hammons, founder of Tasting Kitchen magazine; a representative

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from the sponsoring spirit company; and a guest judge.

The competition is friendly, more a chance for contestants to challenge themselves than a rivalry among colleagues.

First prize is a one-year membership to the exclusive KEE Club; other prizes include premium liquor and massage vouchers. “But the main purpose,” says Eder, “is to have fun and make friends.”

The first event, in October 2015, was a big success, with the focus on rum and a selection of spirits provided by Caripelago Trading Ltd. The winner was a spicy, fruity, creamy creation from Michael Torres Casubuan, Bar Manager at Beefbar, Club Lusitano, Hong Kong, who combined English Harbour Rum 5 Year Old with wasabi, fresh red chili, passion fruit, and peanut butter.

November’s sponsor was Campari and the winner was Michael Callahan, Founding Bartender of 28 Hongkong Street, Singapore. His elegant stirred drink complemented the flavor notes of Campari with orange peel, passion fruit, and smoked rosemary.

The evenings have proved very popular, attracting about eighty F&B influencers each month. And Eder is already busy making devilish plans for the contents of next month’s black bags.

香 港 顶 级 会 所「KEE」 营 运 总 监 Matthias Eder 表示 ： 「会所每月首个周一都会邀请餐 饮界重量级人士共聚一堂，正是互相交流的 绝佳良机。我们很荣幸每次都得到不同的酒 商赞助，也藉由调制鸡尾酒的机会展示多款 酒水选择。开始一小时来宾可畅饮各式饮料， 享用小吃点心，随意交流，紧接着登场的就 是会所极具特色的调酒大赛－黑袋调酒挑战 赛。多位四星及五星调酒师一字排开，以当 晚酒商赞助的酒类为基酒。 」接着 Eder 带着 几分戏谑的一笑 ： 「再加上『我』所挑选的 一系列神秘素材来调酒。 」 身为经验老道的调酒师，Eder 选用各 种高难度材料，毫不手软。「这些调酒师个 个才华洋溢的，我要挑战他们的极限。难 度真的有点高，的确不容易应付。」 参赛者拿到每人专属的神秘袋子后只 有五分钟思考的时间，会所丰富的酒藏均 可随意取用，接着有五分钟调酒时间，技 巧不限。最后的赢家由专业评审团选出 ： 分别为 TK 杂志创办人 Mark Hammons、赞 助酒商代表一名及一位客座评审。 比赛鼓励性质居多，主要是激励参赛 者自我挑战，而非同业间的恶性竞争。首 奖为「KEE」会员资格一年，其他奖项如 顶级美酒或推拿券等也相当诱人。Eder 强 调活动目的： 「主要是交朋友、大家一起玩。」 活动于 2015 年 10 月初试啼声便大获成 功，以兰姆酒及酒商 Caripelago Trading Ltd. 所提供的多种烈酒为主轴。最后由香港西 洋会所「Beefbar」酒吧经理 Michael Torres Casubuan 混和五年英国港湾兰姆酒、芥末、 新鲜红辣椒、百香果及花生酱而成的鸡尾酒 获奖，将辣劲、果香及绵密口感融为一体。 11 月 场 赞 助 商 为 金 巴 利 (Campari)， 由新加坡「28 Hongkong Street」酒吧创店 调 酒 师 Michael Callahan 摘 下 桂 冠。 他 的 搅拌式调酒一贯优雅，橙皮、百香果及烟 熏迷迭香和金巴利酒的味道搭配的恰到好 处。活动大受欢迎，餐饮界的大人物们无 不趋之若鹜，每个月都吸引约 80 人与会。 说到此，Eder 早把歪脑筋动到下个月的黑 袋竞赛，迫不及待给参赛者出难题了。

DAVID HARTUNG

TASTING NEWS

MICHAEL CALLAHAN

Founding Bartender, 28 Hongkong Street, Singapore 新加坡 28 Hongkong Street 酒吧创店调酒师 MY MYSTERY INGREDIENTS were rosemary, passion fruit, and orange, 我的秘密素材是迷迭香、百香果及柳橙，搭配苦味酒 and my spirit was Campari, one of the most classic bitter drinks. 经典之一金巴利 (Campari) 为基酒。比赛中大家偏好 In competitions, people often go for shaken cocktails – they’re 摇杯调制鸡尾酒－容许失误的空间较大、味道也较容 forgiving and accessible. I decided to make a variation of one of my 易懂。然而，我决定以冷门的搅拌式调酒 Rosita 一决 favorite, and rather unappreciated, stirred drinks, Rosita. Stirred 胜负，重新诠释自己最爱的调酒，创造新的风味。 drinks are very strong and people are not so keen on boozy 搅拌式调酒味道较浓，而且这种易醉的酒较 drinks, but I wanted to challenge myself. 不受大家青睐，但我想挑战自己的能力。 I chose tequila, sweet vermouth, peated whisky, and 我选了龙舌兰、甜苦艾酒 , 泥煤威 NOVEMBER fino sherry as my other ingredients. I also decided to make 士忌以及 fino 雪莉酒作为其他材料。我 my own bitters, which are like a golden thread holding a 还自制苦精，作用就像串起一身铠甲的 garment together – they link the ingredients. I torched the 金色丝线一样，把所有素材连结起来。 十一月冠军 rosemary and put the needles into a blender with Campari 迷迭香炙烧后，把针叶放入金巴利酒及 and orange peel. I blitzed for three minutes to liberate the oils, 橙皮中混和，加热三分钟把油脂释出再过 then strained. With a stirred cocktail you’re like a studio producer. 滤。 Each ingredient is a diva, a show-off with its own loud voice. The water 做搅拌式调酒有点像录音室的制作人，碰到的 in the ice is your mixing board, diluting to the level that each of the 每个素材都是各据一方的天后级人物，无不想大鸣大 voices can still be made out in the crowd, but blended to be harmonious. 放。冰块的水分就是调和盘，将每个素材稍加稀释， One thing I’ve learned is to read the rules very carefully, and there 但各自的美声仍可清晰听见，融合得无懈可击。 was nothing about bringing your own props. I brought a pipette and 比赛每项规定我都看得一清二处，携带道具并 filled it with my bitters. I also brought a medical syringe and injected 不违规，所以我就带了自己的注射管，装满自制的苦 a segment of mandarin orange, which I served with the drink – like 精。医疗用注射器我也没漏掉，可以注入些许苦精于 a palate cleanser that complements the flavor of the drink. This way 橘子内，和调酒一同上桌－可以清清口腔，也和调酒 Campari was featured in three different guises. Campari is definitely the 味道相辅相成。金巴利酒以三种方法呈现，绝对是当 star of the show. 晚调酒中的主角。

WINNER

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NAUGHTY KEE

50 ml

30 ml

pinch cut in half 1 piece 2 spoons 2 chunks

20 ml

English Harbour Rum 5 Year Old lemon juice wasabi powder fresh chili passion fruit Skippy peanut butter fresh pineapple simple syrup

passion fruit mandarin orange rosemary, fresh Campari, plus additional for bitters reposado tequila sweet vermouth fino sherry spoonful peated whisky

Method: 1. Squeeze passion fruit juice into the glass and dump it out.

2. For bitters: smoke rosemary and blend its needles, a slice of orange peel, and the Campari for 3 minutes and strain.

3. Stir the tequila, vermouth, sherry, whisky, and 30 ml Campari in a glass jug with ice.

Taste it until the flavors sing. Add half a barspoon of the bitters.

20 ml 糖浆

装饰 ：小片百香果涂上花生

新鲜迷迭香

30 ml reposado 龙舌兰 20 ml 甜苦艾酒 10 ml fino 雪莉酒

1 匙 泥煤 威士忌 调法 ：

1. 百香果挤出果汁至杯内后移开。 2. 调制苦精 ：熏烤迷迭香，后加 入针叶、一小片橘子皮及金巴利

酒，混调 3 分钟后过滤。

3. 玻璃器皿中放入冰块，加入龙 舌兰、苦艾酒、威士忌、雪莉酒 及金巴利酒搅拌。用吸管试味道， 搅拌至味道相互融合，最后加入 一调酒匙苦精。

Garnish: Suck bitters into a small pipette.

With a syringe, inject more bitters into an orange segment. Serve it on the side of the glass with the pipette and a rosemary sprig.

装饰 ：自注射管吸起些许苦精，

TK | AUSPICIOUS TASTES

2 块 新鲜菠萝

Garnish: small cut of passion fruit coated with peanut butter, half slice of chili, fresh mint, and sprinkle wasabi powder on top.

酒杯 ：雪莉杯组，置于大型冰杯

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2 匙 Skippy 花生酱

酒杯 ：岩石杯

Glass: Sherry glass set in a larger container of ice.

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1 颗 百香果

Glass: rocks glass

30 ml 金巴利酒，加苦精

中。

以注射器注入多量苦精于橘子 内。上桌时放在酒杯边，并附上 一叶迷迭香。

切半 新鲜辣椒

调法 ：混和所有材料 ( 除了芥

1 百香果 1 橘子

30 ml 柠檬汁

一小撮 芥末粉

Method: Mix all the ingredients except for the wasabi, shake, and double strain.

KEE TO SUCCESS

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1

30 ml

30 ml

20 ml

10 ml

50 ml 5 年英国港湾兰姆酒

末粉 )、摇杯、双重过滤

酱、 半 片 辣 椒、 新 鲜 薄 荷， 最后于上方洒上芥末粉

TASTING NEWS

OCTOBER

T H E Y G A V E M E A H A R D T I M E with chili pepper, peanut butter, wasabi, and passion

WINNER 十月冠军

fruit! We were allowed to exclude one ingredient, but I decided not to take the easy way out. The other bartenders were laughing at the ingredients I had and they were shocked when I chose to use everything.

But actually, I knew within one minute what I was going to make. We had a choice of fine rums, so I selected English Harbour 5 Year Old, a beautiful dark rum that could stand up to my mystery ingredients and blend perfectly with juicy fruits to make a tropical drink. I prepared the glass by rubbing

MICHAEL TORRES CASUBUAN

Bar Manager, Beefbar, Club Lusitano, Hong Kong 香港西洋会所 Beefbar 西餐厅酒吧经理

it with orange peel to add to the sensory experience.

For some freshness and citrus, I chose lemon juice and pineapple. I added a little sugar syrup for sweetness and peanut butter, which gave a creamy texture. I left the chili whole so that it wouldn’t overpower the drink. Before shaking, I like to mix well and taste, in case I need to adjust. Then I shook the ingredients over ice to dilute the potent heat. Finally, I sprinkled the wasabi on top to give an interesting kick at first sip.

用辣椒、花生酱及百香果为指定素材简直强 人所难！虽然可以跳过其中一项不用，但我 不想挑轻松的路走。其他调酒师看到我的神 秘材料都笑了出来，但我坚持三样都用，让 大家始料未及。 老实说，当下我就知道该怎么做了，有 多款顶级兰姆酒可以选择，我挑了五年英国 港湾兰姆酒。这款漂亮的深色兰姆酒可与我 抽中的神秘素材相衬，同时和多汁的水果搭 配的天衣无缝，造就完美的热带调酒。酒杯 事先以橙皮擦拭过，让感官体验更上一层楼。 柠檬汁及凤梨带来清爽口感及柑橘韵味， 倒入些许糖浆增加甜味，并以花生酱营造绵

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

密口感。辣椒整条使用，味道才不至于过重。 摇杯前我习惯让各种味道调和并初试味道， 这样才能对口感有所认知并立即调整。接着 才加冰块摇杯降低热度，最后再于上方洒上 芥末便大功告成，一入口就有说不出的特殊 味道袭上味蕾。 auspicious tastes

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Yuan Chopstix L1「原箸」 HKD145

In homage to Taiwanese craft practices, Yuan Design took locally grown bamboo and combined it with sleek stainless steel, textured to prevent slippage. In 2012, Yuan Chopstix L1 was the first tableware of its kind to be certified carbon-friendly by Taiwan’s Plastics Industry Development Center. With a set of these at hand, you’ll be reducing your carbon footprint with every bite. 本着向台湾工艺致敬的理念，环原设计打造筷组，使用在地竹子，结合滑 顺的不锈钢流线造型防止滑落。 2012 年，Chopstix L1「原箸」成为全台 首获塑胶工业技术发展中心低碳认证的餐具产品。原箸筷组在手，每吃一 口都有助减少碳足迹。

Yuan Chopstix+「福箸．扶助」 HKD665

This tiny set of retractable utensils epitomizes the innovative approach of James Lin, founder of Yuan Design. In addition to chopsticks, it contains a whistle and an LED light, all on a convenient key ring. The judges of Taiwan’s respected Golden Pin Design Award were so impressed with the combination of function, features, technology, and style that they awarded it their Design Mark in 2012. 环原设计创办人林崇哲的创新想法在这小巧的可收式筷组中展露无遗。

除了筷子，还有口哨及 LED 灯，全部透过简便的钥匙圈串连起来。

福箸筷组优异的功能性、特色、技术及设计风格让台湾首屈一指「金点 设计奖」评审团为之惊艳，授与 2012「金点设计标章」以示肯定。

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INSPIRED LIVING

一起动筷吧

get on the stick Yuan Design of Taiwan marries traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design in chopsticks that are both luxurious and highly practical.

Fu-lu-shou-xi chopsticks 福禄寿囍筷 HKD35

COURTESY OF YUAN DESIGN

Carefully conceived proportions ensure ease of use with this premium set of chopsticks. The textured grain of the dark wood extending from the head to the middle creates a natural non-slip surface. In honor of ancient local traditions, the wood is carved with an auspicious Chinese phrase, fu lu shou xi , meaning “fortune, wealth, longevity, happiness.” Din Tai Fung, the highly acclaimed Taiwan-based restaurant chain, was so impressed with the perfectly balanced feel of these chopsticks that in 2013 they selected them for use in their locations across Asia. 精致筷组的筷身比例拿捏得当，让人使用裕如。黑色木纹自筷头 延伸至中段，质感天然防滑。木头表面刻上代表福气、财富、

长寿及幸福的福禄寿囍四字，吉祥意含十足，带有浓浓的传统风味。 在各界均获好评的台湾连锁餐饮集团「鼎泰丰」也深为福禄寿囍筷 的完美比例及造型所吸引，2013 年开始在亚洲各大分店采用该筷组。

INSPIRED LIVING

创意金点子

gold standard Culinary entries shine among the winners of a highly coveted design award.

ship between the heavens, the earth, and humanity.

Pin Plate, a set of three sauce dishes by Wonderfuldesign Studio in Taiwan, mimics the shapes of the Chinese characters pin ( 品 ), which can have the meaning “to savor,” and kou ( 口 ), meaning “mouth.” It’s a playful way for diners to savor their sauces.

Our final selection, Pure Tin Straight Glass, is from Woo Collective, a young design studio in Taiwan dedicated to preserving the ancient craft of tinware through a modern ethos that is minimalistic and poetic. The pure tin used in their lustrous drinking vessels is stable, nontoxic, and tasteless.

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金点设计奖在台湾已有三十年历史，



Rhythm of Lattice tableware combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with twenty-firstcentury materials. 「花窗舞影」结合中国 传统美学与二十一世 纪开发的新材质。



The Pin Plate set by Wonderfuldesign Studio is a clever take on the ubiquitous standard sauce dishes of the island’s restaurants. 玩美文创设计工作室 的「品碟」以餐厅到处 可见的小碟为主题，延 伸出巧妙的设计创意。

是专为华人设置的奖项，也是华人社 会唯一表彰设计产品与专案的荣耀。 一年一度颁发的大奖细分成四类 ：产 品设计、视觉传达设计、包装设计以 及空间设计。每年总有新推出的厨房 用品加入竞逐，规模之大令人咋舌， 或许也是因为饮食向来是华人世界的 辉煌传统。

2015 年 获 奖 的 餐 具 中， 有 一 组 名为「花窗舞影」的设计作品，是由 艺拓国际在台湾设立的陶瓷品牌「神 话言」出品。其外观受到门窗格栅的 启发，常见于中式园林，而材质最富 原创性，系由骨瓷、珐琅以及坚固的 精炼金属制成。 另一只获奖的盖碗杯也为古代陶

 When filled with green tea,

Gaiwan Cup is auspiciously reminiscent of a precious piece of jade suspended in midair. 斟满绿茶的盖碗杯极似一块 美玉浮在半空，暗喻祥瑞。

瓷传统与形式注入了新生命。此一盖 碗杯是由中国的三度品牌策略设计公 司设计，结合骨瓷、矽硼玻璃和木材， 传达出「天地人合一」的精神，阐释 天、地与人之间的关系。 「品碟」是一式三件的小碟，由 台湾的玩美文创设计工作室，仿中国 字「品」字字形，由「口」组成，意 。 从字型和字义拆解设 味着「品尝」 计，以轻松方式提醒用餐者别忘了品 尝酱汁美味。 最后一件入选作品是荒川纯锡酒 杯，是由「物」出品。「物」是由一群 年轻设计师共同创立的工作室，透过 极简与充满诗意的形式，努力保存锡 制器具的古代工艺并发扬光大。此一 光彩外烁的纯锡饮杯无毒无味，能使 用很长时间。



Made from tin, Woo Collective’s cups allow the pure taste of tea, sake, wine, or water to shine through. 由「物」出品、纯锡制 成的酒杯最适合用来品 尝茶、清酒、葡萄酒或 白开水的究极好滋味。

ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE TAIWAN DESIGN CENTER

THE GOLDEN PIN DESIGN AWARD, established in Taiwan over three decades ago, is the only competition in the world that celebrates design products and projects created for and within huaren (Chinese-speaking) communities. Each year the annual award competition is open to entries in four categories: product design, visual communication, packaging design, and spatial design. The Golden Pin competition attracts a surprising variety of new-to-the-market culinary products each year, perhaps because of the prominence of all things edible in huaren celebrations, traditions, and culture.

Among the many food-related wares awarded the Golden Pin Design Mark in 2015 is a tableware set called Rhythm of Lattice made by Tales, a ceramics brand established in Taiwan by Artilize Worldwide Co., Ltd. The look of the set is inspired by the latticework commonly seen on doors and windows in traditional Chinese gardens, but what’s particularly innovative is the material it’s made of, a hybrid of bone china, enamel, and metal that is sturdy yet refined.

A winning tea cup called Gaiwan Cup also reinvigorates ancient ceramic traditions and forms. Made by mainland China’s Sandu Brand Strategy Planning Co. Ltd., it’s a combination of bone china, borosilicate glass, and wood that references the philosophy of tian di ren he yi , the relation-



  

INSPIRED LIVING

出“琪”不意

strangeware A designer fuses ancient Asian aesthetic, contemporary Western concepts, and a good measure of offbeat humor to create unique tableware for today.

屡获大奖肯定的香港设计师曾嘉琪 （Monica Tsang) 认 为， 用 以 衬 托 食 物 的 摆盘餐具也应是料理创作过程中不可或缺 的一环。餐具于餐桌扮演的角色与专为戏 剧动作精心设计的舞台背景并无二致。 在 X-treme 中式餐具系列中，她重 新 演 绎 传 统 中 国 美 学 形 式 及 装 饰 元 素， 创作多种茶杯、餐碗、餐盘以及融合中 西风格的食物层架。「古东方茶杯搭配 金属支架的组合并非西方设计师的风格， 我是中国人，在香港长大，后来出国深造。 对我而言，揉合中式文化元素及西方设 计理念再自然不过，潜意识里就想这么 做。 」 这些独特餐具专为米其林星级主厨 梁经伦的伦敦新餐厅所设计，和创新菜 色相辅相成。 X-treme 系列由曾嘉琪和 梁经伦，以及香港知名设计师、也是同 名 当 代 家 具 品 牌 创 办 人 Tim Ho 共 同 发 想。两人对曾嘉琪的影响显而易见，由 她突破传统陶瓷餐具形式、出人意表选 用金属融入设计的做法中可见一斑。

Tim 是有名的金属设计师，而梁经伦 一直想重新诠释中式餐饮特色，用 以体现当代精致饮食的精神， 引进现代素材也正是关键 之一。

IMAGES COURTESY OF MONICA TSANG DESIGNS

MONICA TSANG, an award-winning designer based in Hong Kong, believes that when it comes to food, the medium of presentation should be an integral part of the culinary creation itself. Tableware must serve in much the same way as a welldesigned stage set does for the action of a play.

In her series X-treme Chinese Tableware, Tsang reinterprets traditional Chinese aesthetic forms and decorative elements to create cups, bowls, plates, and tiered stands with elements of both Orient and Occident. “The use of the form of an ancient Chinese drinking cup together with a stainless steel holder is likely not a style expected of a Western designer. I’m Chinese, I grew up in Hong Kong, but I was educated overseas, so for me, combining Chinese cultural elements with a Western design mentality is an obvious yet unconscious act.”

The unusual tableware was designed to complement the innovative food at the new London restaurant of Michelinstarred chef Alvin Leung. Tsang worked on it in collaboration with Leung and Tim Ho, the well-known designer behind the Hong Kong contemporary furniture firm of the same name. The influence of both collaborators is evident in Tsang’s unexpected use of stainless steel in the design of what would otherwise look like rather traditional ceramic dinnerware pieces. Ho is noted for his imaginative use of stainless steel, and employing the modern material was a nod to Leung’s approach of reinterpreting traditional icons of Chinese cuisine for contemporary fine dining.

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Monica Tsang’s Entomo dinnerware features insects, likable and not, cleverly camouflaged within decorative filigree patterns. 曾嘉琪Entomo餐具系列以昆虫为主轴， 是否讨喜暂且不谈，巧妙让人误有精 致装饰花边的感觉确实有一手。

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IMAGES COURTESY OF TIM HO, AND ALVIN LEUNG, AND MONICA TSANG DESIGNS

INSPIRED LIVING

Tsang’s designs also typically contain a lot of eccentric humor: knives plunge into shiny blocks in the form of hearts or skulls, fish-shaped chopstick holders bring a Chinese carp pond to the table, and in her marketing material, a fly swatter inspired

by Venetian carnival masks is transposed onto an image of the Mona Lisa.

Tsang’s dinnerware series Entomo appears at first to be adorned with delicate floral filigree patterns etched in black on a white ceramic ground. A closer look reveals that the designs consist of bugs, from lovely butterflies and ladybugs to creepy-crawlies like centipedes and cockroaches.

“I’ve created many death-themed designs that are inspired

by Zen philosophical concepts. Interestingly, the outcome is so modern and Western in style that it challenges the traditional thinking within the Chinese design community while still being functional.”

With numerous large clients in China, including manufacturers and department stores, Monica Tsang is fast becoming a go-to designer for those looking for collections that are Chinese-inspired yet contemporary. “The most important thing to consider when designing tableware is function,” she says. “A designer has to take into account the needs of different users.

For example, from a chef’s point of view, the design should allow room enough to operate within when plating or displaying the food. When it comes to the wait staff, the tableware must be easy to move around a restaurant space. A restaurant owner or manager is looking for a reasonably priced product that is easy to store. Finally, the design must be easy to manufacture.”

黑色幽默在曾嘉琪设计 的各式作品中从不缺席 ：菜刀 不偏不倚插入心型或骷髅头形 状的刀具架中、鱼型筷架组形同 把中国鲤鱼池塘整个搬到餐桌上。 宣传小物也同样别出心裁，以威尼斯面具 节为灵感设计的苍蝇拍置入名画，由蒙娜 丽莎拿在手中，让人会心一笑。 她 的 Entomo 餐 具 系 列 的 白 瓷， 乍 看充满精雕细琢的黑边花样，定睛一看 才发觉一切均由昆虫所组成，从可爱的 蝴蝶及瓢虫到让人发毛的蜈蚣及蟑螂等 都包含在内。曾嘉琪表示，受到禅的概 念启发，创作了许多以死亡为主题的作 品。「说来有趣，出来的成果非常摩登、 充满西方风格，对于仅停留在功能性传 统考量的华人设计圈来说，不斥为一大颠 覆及挑战。 」 曾嘉琪发展至今，已有许多中国的重要 客户，其中不乏制造大厂及百货公司，也在 寻求带有中国元素的当代作品买家口耳相传 下声名鹊起，成为代表性的设计名家之一。 关于餐具设计，她强调 ： 「最重要的仍是功 能，设计师要把不同使用者的各种需求纳入 考量。举例来说，从厨师眼光看来，可以协 助装盘或摆示食物裕如才是好设计 ；餐具在 餐厅空间中是否容易移动拿取则是服务生在 意之处 ；餐厅老板或经理当然又有不同角度， 想找价钱合理且容易存放的餐具。但终究， ​​ 餐具的设计还是要能便于制造生产才行。 」

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FOOD & ART

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令人垂涎的艺术

conceptual icing An iconoclast of the contemporary art world makes paintings that look good enough to eat.

SHANGHAI-BASED ARTIST XU ZHEN is no stranger to 艺术家徐震现居上海，其创作的作品总 controversy, thanks to a career built on wild experimen能让人众说纷纭。他的创作生涯由一连 tation, including faked documentary photographs of an 串狂野的实验交织而成，包括自称登上 imaginary climb of Mount Everest, a video of the artist 珠穆朗玛峰的录像作品、在众人面前吼 screaming in public, and classical Greek statues attached 叫的视频作品，以及把传统希腊塑像和 by their necks to bodhisattva figures. 佛像连接起来的创作等等。 Born in 1977, Xu is part of the new crop of Chinese 徐震生于 1977 年，是新一代的中国 artists whose works display a conceptual 艺术家，作品表达出的核心概 focus a world away from the politicized paint念和上一代充满政治意味的画 BY ings of the previous generation. Quoting a 作大相径庭。他引用一句名言 CATHERINE SHAW proverb, he remarks, “There is no construction 说道： 「没有破坏就没有建设。 」 without destruction.” 其中一件争议较少的作 ART BY One of his less controversial works is a 品，是系列以姿态各异的油画 XU ZHEN series of enormous canvases displaying kalei玫瑰花装点而成的巨型绘作， doscopic patterns of oil paint rosettes, squeezed from a 当中的玫瑰花是用糖果商的裱糖纸另制 confectioner’s icing bag. “I don’t like to be confined to 而成的。他说 ： 「我不想局限于任何一种 any one medium,” says the artist. “I think the concept is 」 创作媒介，理清概念显得更为重要。 much more important.” 徐震的「天下」(Under Heaven) 系 A reflection on cramped contemporary urban life, 列是对狭隘的现代都市生活的反思。「天 its title, Under Heaven , is the literal meaning of the 下​​」在古代中国指的是皇帝统治的领域， Chinese term tianxia , an ancient concept relating to the 也双关于杰夫昆斯（Jeff Koons）恶名昭

MADEIN COMPANY

•

realm of the emperor, and is also a pun on Jeff Koons’ notorious Made in Heaven series.

His unorthodox approach has proved spectacularly successful. He won the Chinese Contemporary Art Award in 2004 and was the youngest Chinese artist to participate in the Venice Biennale in 2001 and 2005. In 2014 he was the commissioned artist for the The Armory Show in New York, and several of his works also appear in the current blockbuster Bentu exhibition at the Foundation Louis Vuitton in Paris.

A case of having your cake and eating it too?

彰的天堂制作（Made in Heaven）系列 画作。 他「非正统」的创作手法得到相当 大的肯定，早于 2004 年赢得中国当代艺 术奖，同时也在 2001 和 2005 年获邀参 加威尼斯双年展，是里头最年轻的中国 艺术家。2014 年他成为纽约军械库艺术 展的委任艺术家，数件作品也出现在最 近相当轰动的 Bentu 大展，该展览在巴 黎路易威登基金会举办。 这样的艺术就不是两全其美吗？

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DESIGN

别有洞天的设计飨宴

undercover lounging

DENNIS LO (6)

An inventive designer conceives one of Hong Kong’s most diverting new F&B experiences.

RESTAURANT AND BAR INTERIORS have always followed design cycles, and so it was inevitable that once the trend for industrial chic, with its naked concrete floors, rusted steel lamps, and peeling walls, became part of the mainstream of Hong Kong public taste, some of the city’s more adventurous designers would react against its spare functional aesthetic with a livelier take.

Leading the pack is Nelson Chow of NC Design and Architecture Ltd., who is fast making a name for himself with quirky and theatrical interiors for the city’s trendsetting cafes, bars, and restaurants. His work for Chateh and Sungai Wang, two adjoining Asian restaurants in Tsim Sha Tsui, features a dramatic shared entrance of three big basket-like enclosures made from wooden slats in swirling patterns. And his design for Mrs Pound, a flamboyant Sheung Wan speakeasy hidden behind a traditional Hong Kong stamp shop facade, is based on the legend of an imaginary burlesque queen from Shanghai.

One of Chow’s latest and most entertaining designs is at Foxglove in Central. Playing off a Kingsman: The Secret Service motif, it disguises an eighty-seat dining room and bar behind a staid British umbrella shop. Discovering the hidden entrance (hint: it’s on Ice House Street) is only the first of the

餐厅和酒吧的内部装潢向来跟随设计潮流， 也因工业风兴起，当水泥地板、生锈钢灯、 斑驳墙面成为香港大众品味的主流时，城 市里总有些冒险进取的设计师会挺身而出， 用更活泼的风格冲击这种纯粹的功能美学。 引领这股新风格的是「NCDA 设计公 司 (NC Design and Architecture Ltd.)」的邹 志伟，凭借为香港的咖啡馆、酒吧、餐厅 设计诡异夸张的装潢而迅速成名。他的作 品之一是位于尖沙咀的两家相邻亚洲餐厅 「百乐小馆」和「亚来金河」，在共同入口 处打造三个用扭转的木条制成的巨型篮子 围墙装饰，十分显眼。另一作品则是位于 上环的艳丽餐厅「磅太太」，这是一家隐身 在香港传统印章店面后方、有着上海舞娘 传奇爱情故事的隐身酒吧。 而邹志伟最新、最具娱乐性的设计就 是位于中环的「Foxglove」。这家餐厅的装 潢以金牌特务为主题，巧妙地将设有八十 个座位的餐厅和酒吧伪装在沈稳的英式雨 伞店内。（提示 ：位置在雪厂街上）发现 隐蔽的入口还只是体验神秘快感的第一关， 顾客会穿过看似毫不相关的 Fox Shop，各 式手工制作、银制把手的雨伞优雅地陈列 在玻璃黄铜壁橱里。走到尽头，看似平凡 无奇的雨伞其实摊藏着一个机关 ：只要触 摸把手，墙壁就会悄悄地向后滑开，展现 出一个宽敞的餐厅和酒吧空间，甚至还有 现场演奏的爵士乐团。 邹志伟说 ： 「设计主题围绕着一个虚构 的故事，从前有位英国绅士环游世界寻求 auspicious tastes

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furtive thrills that await. Customers must traverse the innocent-looking Fox Shop, with its handmade, silver-handled umbrellas elegantly displayed in rows of glass-and-brass wall cabinets. Near the back, a seemingly ordinary umbrella stand holds the secret; touch the right handle and the wall silently glides back to reveal a spacious restaurant and bar, complete with live jazz band.

“The design theme was created around the fictitious story of an English gentleman who traveled the world in search of adventure and created Foxglove, named after his elusive beloved’s favorite flower,” says Chow. “The blossom can be deadly in its natural state, but when used carefully, it can help treat ailments of the heart.” The décor is styled on elements of the traditional British gentlemen’s club combined with retro touches inspired by various modes of luxury transportation suitable to high-end intrigue.

Known for his talent in creating efficient designs in challenging spaces, Chow

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found that the biggest issue at Foxglove was the relatively low ceiling in the main dining area and bar. He boldly resolved the matter by drawing attention to it, installing a sleek cream lacquer sculptural facing that sweeps across the dining area and down on one side of the room to create a backdrop for the bar.

The ceiling’s segmented form is punctuated by bare-bulb fixtures at the intersections, creating an intimate surround reminiscent of a vintage first-class airline cabin. Customdesigned chairs and banquettes in ink-blue leather are as comfortable as they look.

“Many of the details are not immediately apparent, like the faint blue wash on the natural wood floor or the way the edge of the flooring curves up under the bar to create an interplay of surfaces, but they’re important for the overall sense of space,” Chow explains.

Two covert inner sanctums lie deeper within. The VIP room, seating thirty-two, is furnished with wrap-around banquettes and chairs in a glowing red palette. Its walls are lined with lighted wooden showcases for Fox

umbrella stems, standing in upright rows like sentinels. The vaulted ceiling evokes the comfortable feel of a transcontinental club car. Design details include custom lighting inspired by the headlamps of classic cars.

The exclusive VVIP room is accessed from the end of a hallway by performing a certain clandestine action that sets off a signal to the bartender within to open up.

This cozy library-like haven is paneled in dark wood and features a travertine bar, seating in shades of green, and brass mesh doors on the liquor cabinets. Shelves displaying faux-antique volumes line the walls—and extend across the ceiling.

Even the restrooms reflect Foxglove’s spirit of playful artifice. Taking his cue from Wes Anderson’s highly stylized films, Chow devises a surreal mise-en-scène that brings to mind the days of transatlantic luxury liners.

Clad in creamy white lacquer, a narrow corridor presents twenty-four cabin doors: six are real, six are fake, and twelve are nothing more than reflections in a mirror.

DENNIS LO (2)

DESIGN

冒险，创造了 Foxglove，店名用他挚爱女 人最喜爱的花命名。这种花盛开时有毒， 能致人于死，但若小心使用就能治疗心脏 疾病。」他用传统英国绅士俱乐部的元素打 造空间，结合奢华的交通工具，营造出一 股适合上流品味的怀旧氛围。 邹志伟擅长在富挑战性的空间里创造 高效率设计，因而享誉盛名。他发现 Foxglove 最大的问题在于主要用餐区和酒吧的 天花板相当低，于是干脆大胆地以吸引人 们的视线来解决这个问题。他设计了一幅 光滑、奶白色的雕塑漆面横扫过整个用餐 区，直垂至空间另一方，为酒吧创造出一 道背景。天花板间的接口处固定加上灯泡， 令人联想起旧时的飞机头等舱，整个环境 变得亲昵起来。而这里独家打造的座椅与 蓝黑色皮革长沙发坐起来就如同柔软的外 观一样舒适十分。 邹志伟解释道 ： 「许多细节并非显而易 见，像是在天然木地板上刷上暗蓝色，或 者是吧台下方地板边缘卷翘而创造出的交 错表面，它们对整体空间感都很重要。」 另外还有两个隐密的内室在更深处 ： 可容纳 32 位客人的 VIP 室装设有环型长沙 发和亮红色座椅。墙边为打着射灯的木展 示柜，一字排开地展示如哨兵般直挺立着 的 Fox 伞柄 。圆拱型的天花板令人想到舒 服的俱乐部车，使用经典车头灯作照明也 是别具一格的设计细节。 专属的 VVIP 室则要从走廊后方进入， 先买个关子，客人要寻找一道机关，这是 用来告诉里面的酒保来开门的信号。这座 舒适有如图书馆的密室四周以深色木板镶 嵌，设有大理石吧台，典雅绿色座椅，黄 铜网格包围著酒柜 。墙边一路延伸至天花 板的书柜排列着层层厚本书，刻意强调浓 厚复古味。 不仅如此，Foxglove 就连洗手间都反 映着调皮风趣的手法。效法韦斯 · 安德森 的奇幻风格电影，邹志伟以设计打造超现 实场面，让人忆起豪华邮轮横越大西洋的 年代。狭窄的走廊上可见 24 扇奶白色的舱 门，其中六扇为真，六扇为假，另 12 扇则 不过是镜中反射而已。 .

The VVIP room features an emerald green palette with bespoke shelving on the walls and ceiling. 贵宾房以翠绿色调为重点， 搭配着嵌于墙上及天花板上的特制柜架。 auspicious tastes

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STAR CHEFS

美食群星聚

culinary constellation Six star chefs come into conjunction to light up the opening of Studio City Macau.

BY MAMIE CHEN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY RED DOG STUDIO

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WHILE HOLLYWOOD A-LISTERS onstage were basking in wild acclaim at Studio City’s glittering grand opening gala in October, luminaries from another realm were gaining glory in the fashion of their own particular profession. Six celebrity chefs, representing the signature restaurants of Studio City and its sister property, City of Dreams, were feverishly laboring away in the kitchen to turn out the evening’s spectacular feast.

Hidemasa Yamamoto started off the celebration with a selection of five Japanese canapés featuring otoro, the deliciously fatty belly meat of the prized Pacific bluefin tuna from the fishing port of Oma. Tam Kwok Fung paid tribute to one of the most beloved of Cantonese delicacies, braised abalone, with a chilled Yoshihama awabi accompanied by crystalline iceplant.

Guillaume Galliot valiantly stretched the summer season by presenting his signature crab salad with tomato water jelly, topped elegantly with big dollops of caviar and avocado mousse and a scoop of bracing Bloody Mary sorbet.

Alan Wong introduced the alluring flavors of Hawaii with a steamed onaga, or long-tailed Hawaiian red snapper, served with its auspiciously red-hued skin for good luck and accompanied by fresh Hawaiian abalone and pit-roasted kālua pig.

Alain Ducasse followed the seafood appetizers with a French haute cuisine ultra-classic, tournedos Rossini.

It featured wagyu beef filet, foie gras, and a Périgueux sauce reduction of Madeira wine and black truffles.

Pierre Hermé brought the feast to a celestial finale with a refreshing delight called Tarte Infiniment Citron, a sweet pâte sablée shell contrasting with tart lemon cream filling and bitter candied zest. 「新濠影汇」十月盛大开幕，晚宴众星云集，更邀来好莱 坞一线巨星上台演出，现场气氛热闹非常 ；换到另一个场 地，明星闪耀度也不遑多让，专业表现吸睛一流。主掌「新 濠影汇」及「新濠天地」多家代表性餐厅的六大明星大厨 于厨房忙碌不停，展现精湛厨艺，打造令人难忘的奢华晚 宴。 首先登场的是山本秀正精心准备的五种日式前菜， 吃得到日本大间渔港直送的太平洋黑鲔鱼「大腹」 ，获奖 肯定的鲔鱼肥美腹肉让人胃口大开。 接着由谭国锋端上广东美馔精炖鲍鱼的改良版，冻

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GUILLAUME GALLIOT

E X E C U T I V E C H E F, T H E T A S T I N G R O O M , CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU

行政总厨，澳门新濠天地御膳房

For years, Guillaume Galliot was executive chef of one of the few worldclass restaurants in Macau. Now, with a second Michelin star newly in hand, he welcomes the recent influx of internationally acclaimed chefs and explains how The Tasting Room will continue to hold its own.

How do you feel about the new competition?

Before, people might come on a one-day trip, choose a restaurant for lunch, and then go home. Now, with more restaurants, many with big-name chefs, they may consider staying three or four days. And that would be a benefit for us, too.

How do you continue to innovate?

I’m quite traditional with my cooking techniques, but I enjoy discovering new ingredients. Recently, a friend suggested I try the Japanese kinki fish as an alternative to the French red mullet. I bought it, cooked it, and fell in love with it. The texture is fantastic, and it is more delicate and refined than the red mullet. So I was able to use it in a new dish that is now on the menu.

吉品鲍加上冰叶日中花点缀，让这道备受众人喜爱的经典

身为澳门少数几家世界级餐厅之一「御膳房」的灵魂人物，行政

粤菜绽出新光芒。

总厨 Guillaume Galliot 最近再获第二颗米其林星星肯定，对于澳门

Guillaume Galliot 则是唤回夏日时光，理所当然以他 的招牌蟹肉沙拉上桌，番茄水冻上优雅妆点着大颗鱼子酱、

餐饮界陆续迎来多位国际知名大厨他也乐见其成，但也强调餐厅 会持续努力，保持不败之地。

酪梨慕斯及一球血腥玛莉雪葩，著实让人心旷神怡。 下一道清蒸 onaga，或称长尾夏威夷红鲷的料理由 Alan Wong 精心烹调，吃得到诱人的夏威夷风味。鱼肉的

越来越多餐厅加入竞争行列，您怎么看？ 以前人们习惯来过一天就好，选间餐厅吃午餐，然后回家。现

鲜红色泽带有吉祥及好运的意涵，搭配新鲜夏威夷鲍鱼及

在多了不少餐厅可以选择，许多名气响亮的大厨进驻，游客可

地炉烘烤的 kālua 猪肉更是让人食指大动。

能一待三到四天，对我们来说是双赢的局面。

海鲜开胃菜之后，Alain Ducasse 顺理成章端出高级 法式料理经典之作－罗西尼牛排。和牛里脊及鹅肝，再淋 上 Madeira 葡萄酒及黑松露炖煮收干的 Périgueux 酱，奢 豪滋味莫此为甚。 最后一棒为 Pierre Hermé，以口味清爽、令人愉悦 的柠檬塔为豪华套餐带来最后的高潮，香甜塔皮与柠檬塔 奶油馅及略带苦涩的焦糖果皮形成绝佳对比。

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持续创新的秘诀为何？ 烹调方式我偏保守传统，但我很乐意发掘新的食材。最近有朋 友建议我用日本喜知次鱼取代法国红鲱鱼，我也从善如流地买 了，烹煮过后简直让我爱不释手。口感真的无从挑剔，比起红 鲱鱼更加细嫩精致，这也成了新菜的食材之一，客人现在都能 点得到。

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STAR CHEFS

ALAN WONG CHEF/OWNER, ALAN WONG’S RESTAURANTS

主厨/创办人， ALAN W ONG’S餐厅

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“When in Rome,” says Alan Wong, “cook what the Romans cook.” In any new market, Wong carefully taste-tests to gauge the local palate and researches the regional culinary history, looking for popular dishes he can reinterpret with a Hawaiian slant.

「所谓入境随俗，到新地方就要学着用 Alan Wong 表示 ： 当地的方式做菜。」每到新的市场他总习惯到各处试吃， 了解当地口味、研究地区烹饪历史，找寻可以注入夏威夷 风味、重新演绎的地方菜色。

How would you define Hawaiian cuisine?

何谓夏威夷菜？

It’s a style that borrows from other ethnic groups in Hawaii. It’s fun because I draw on ethnic Hawaiian as well as Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Puerto Rican influences.

可说集夏威夷地方各族群菜色风格之大成，做起来趣

Is the world ready for Hawaiian food?

国际饕客准备好吃夏威夷菜了吗？

The world is ready to eat raw fish beyond sushi – they’re ready for Hawaiian poke, cubes of raw fish marinated in soy sauce. Every culture has a version of pulled pork; Hawaiians cook their kālua pig in an underground oven, and the world is ready for that, too.

除了寿司，全球市场也差不多可以接受另一种生鱼料

味十足，除了夏威夷地方族裔特色外，还可以看到葡 萄牙、中国、日本、韩国及波多黎各等地的影响。

理了－酱油腌渍鱼块的夏威夷生鱼盘。每种文化的手 撕猪肉料理各有不同，夏威夷厨师习惯用地下烤炉处 理 kālua 猪肉，也是时候在全球大力推展了。

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STAR CHEFS

PIERRE HERMÉ CHEF PÂTISSIER, PIERRE HERMÉ PARIS

甜点总厨，巴黎PIERRE HERMÉ

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HIDEMASA YAMAMOTO 山本秀正

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GRAND CHEF AND PROPRIETOR OF HIDE YAMAMOTO 总厨及餐厅创办人，山本秀正餐厅

When asked for a favorite among the many macarons he has created, Pierre Hermé pithily quips, “The next one.” It would be hard for anyone to choose just one from the myriad flavors he has developed since he first began experimenting with them in the 1980s. Never resting on past accomplishments, Hermé is always on the lookout for something unusual.

How do you develop new flavors?

I get inspiration to create new things from all around the world. When I travel, I’m always very curious about what I’m eating. As I collect various products and ingredients, I try to understand everything I can about the food. But sometimes it takes time.

What about Macau?

There is everything to discover in Macau. I had some delicious Portuguese egg tarts in my hotel room. Their character comes from the crispiness of the shell and the texture of the filling, so it would be difficult to translate into a macaron. But I like it very much.

Hidemasa Yamamoto’s personalized chef’s coat is modeled after a classic leather motorcycle jacket. It makes a fitting metaphor for his cooking style: respectful of tradition, but not afraid of risk and adventure. His homemade ramen is prepared by a traditional technique over a hundred years old, and many of his sushi and teppanyaki chefs have decades of experience in their specialties. But the menu also features breakthrough dishes like whole young chicken stuffed with truffle rice – even Yamamoto can’t say for sure whether Western or Japanese influences predominate.

Where do you find inspiration?

My restaurant serves Japanese cuisine first and foremost.

But because of my background in Italian and French cuisine, I enjoy introducing different things, not to overpower the original flavors or ingredients, but to enhance them.

I get inspiration from new seasonings and spices I find during my travels, though some don’t always go well with Japanese cuisine. But I keep experimenting, I’m always looking for something new.

山本秀正的厨师袍以经典机车骑士夹克为版型量身打造，和他 的料理风格不谋而合 ：尊重传统之余，不畏风险、勇于冒险。 他所遵循的拉面煮法已流传超过百年，旗下寿司及铁板烧厨师 均有数十年经验，各有擅长。同时，他的菜色也迭有突破，全 嫩鸡裹松露饭便是一例，即使他本人也说不准到底是偏西式还

问到自己多款马卡龙中的最爱， Pierre Hermé 打趣道 ： 「下一个。」 他从 80 年代开始便不断尝试，创作过的口味多到不可胜数，从中 挑出最爱确实有点强人所难。对于过往的成就他既不自满，也不因 此放慢脚步，持续追寻新奇的材料及组合。

是日式风味。

灵感从何而来？ 「山本秀正」是纯正日式料理餐厅，原汁原味。但因过往曾 涉猎意大利菜及法式料理，我也喜欢引进新的元素，在不

新口味该如何开发？

抢走原味及食材风采的前提下，让整体风味更上一层楼。

游历世界各地带给我许多创作新甜点的灵感。每到外地，我对

旅行中碰到新的调味料或香料，即使不一定能与和风相佐，

于所吃的东西总是十分好奇心。收集到不同产品及食材后，对

但总能给我很多启发。我也不断尝试，寻找新的事物。

于各个特定食物也会竭尽所能了解透彻，尽管有时可能要花很 多时间。

澳门给您的感觉如何？ 澳门的各种人事物都值得探索，我在酒店房里吃到一些美味的 葡式蛋塔，酥脆饼皮及内馅口感都是特色所在，套用到马卡龙 上可能有点困难，但味道真的很棒。 auspicious tastes

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TAM KWOK FUNG 谭国锋

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DIRECTOR OF CULINARY OPERATIONS ( C H I N E S E C U I S I N E ) , A LT I R A M A C A U , CITY OF DREAMS, STUDIO CITY 中菜厨艺总监，澳门新濠锋酒店、 新濠天地及新濠影汇

Tam Kwok Fung, who has earned two Michelin stars, is a chef who knows his customers. In order to please the various palates of the wide range of guests who visit his restaurants, he has assembled a team of chefs from across China who have the skills to deliver the authentic tastes of the classic Cantonese dishes on the Pearl Dragon menu and also the flexibility to respond to special requests for regional homestyle favorites.

What does “fine” Chinese cuisine mean to you?

I’m very respectful of the techniques that chefs have mastered over the thousands of years of Chinese cuisine, and as a Cantonese chef, particularly so of the skills around steaming and wok fire. These days we’re often forced to make substitutions with raw ingredients – today’s mandarin fish has much less flavor than the wild variety in the past.

So our job as chefs at upscale restaurants not only involves cooking, but also sourcing the best ingredients from around the world.

米其林二星名厨谭国锋对于客人的需要了如指 掌，为了满足来自各种不同背景的餐厅来客， 他汇集来自中国大江南北、技术一流的厨师团 队，在「玥龙轩」端出各式地道经典粤菜同时， 也能针对特殊需求，制作最地道的各地家常菜。

何谓「精致」中菜？ 对于中菜源远流长数千年的烹饪技术我相当 敬重，身为粤菜厨师，蒸煮及炒菜火候的拿 捏更是其中精髓之所在。不过，许多常用的 食材现在不得不用其他东西取代，像桂花鱼 的味道就远远不及从前野生种那般浓郁了， 也代表身处一流餐厅的我们有更多工作要做， 不仅要会做菜，也要从世界各地找来最棒的 食材。

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STAR CHEFS

ALAIN DUCASSE CHEF AND FOUNDER, ALAIN DUCASSE ENTREPRISE

总厨及创办人，ALAIN DUC ASSE餐饮集团

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Alain Ducasse, with nineteen Michelin stars and a Lifetime Achievement Award from The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, will soon be opening one of the most hotly anticipated restaurants in Macau.

集 19 颗米其林星星及全球 50 大餐厅评鉴「终身成就 奖」于一身的顶级名厨 Alain Ducasse 即将于澳门开设 最新餐厅，餐饮界引颈期盼。

How do you accommodate cross-cultural factors in planning your restaurants?

开设新据点时如何融入跨文化元素？

The differences are very interesting. I once served a special type of French poultry on the opening night of a restaurant outside of France, and I overheard the media whispering somewhat derisively, “He served poached chicken!” They didn’t understand that there’s a very strong tradition of poultry farming in France, with a wide range of different types – the rest of the world just labels them all “chicken.”

For Macau, we understand that the people have a strong interest in fish and shellfish, so we plan this as a base, giving it a Mediterranean twist.

开幕晚宴上我端出特别制作的法式家禽料理，席间

各地的不同之处其实相当有趣。曾有一次海外餐厅 听到媒体记者小声暗笑说道 ： 「他竟然拿水煮鸡出 来！」但他们有所不知，法国禽鸟饲养场的历史传 统悠久－世界各地称之所谓的「鸡」 ，在此可是分 门别类，各式品种应有尽有。 澳门的饕客对于鱼类及甲壳类情有独钟，我 们也计划以此为据，让澳门店加入些许地中海风格。

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星级精粹

star quality

Slow Cooked French Chicken Breast Spelt Risotto , Blue Prawn a la Plancha (The Tasting Room) 慢煮法式鸡胸烧大虾配意大利饭 （御膳房）

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KRISTOFFER LUCZAK IS HAPPY. The 2016 Michelin guide has good news for two of his most prestigious venues: Jade Dragon, the exquisite Cantonese restaurant with Chef Tam Kwok Fung at the helm, and The Tasting Room, with its innovative French cuisine created by Chef Guillaume Galliot, have both moved up from one Michelin star to two, while Shinji by Kanesaka earned its first star.

“We put in many hours and a lot of effort, planning, and expertise,” says Luczak, who is Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage, Melco Crown Entertainment.

The hard work has paid off – the hotels are fully booked, and both Jade Dragon and The Tasting Room are seeing an upsurge in customers. “It’s the power of awards,” admits Luczak. “People are interested when you have stars. The Michelin guide is an assurance of quality that’s globally recognized. It has credibility.”

Swedish-born Luczak, who came to Macau a decade ago, plays a broad range of roles. In addition to polishing Michelin stars, he develops marketing strategies; monitors health and safety across City of Dreams, Altira, and Studio City; and manages some pretty enormous budgets. Through it all he maintains a cool head and absolute rigor, ruthlessly auditing everything and everyone, including himself. The strategy has proved very effective.

“It’s a bit like a police state,” he laughs.

新濠博亚娱乐餐饮部高级副总裁 Kristoffer Luczak 现 在 十 分 欣 喜， 因 根 据 最 新 2016 年米其林指南，新濠博亚娱乐旗下两间颇 负盛名的餐厅都大有斩获 ：新濠天地中菜 厨艺总监谭国锋掌舵的顶级粤菜餐厅「誉 珑轩」及由行政总厨 Guillaume Galliot 一 手 打 造、 以 创 意 法 式 料 理 闻 名 的「 御 膳 房」均由原本的一星跃升至米其林二星餐 厅，「金坂极上寿司」也首获一颗星肯定。 Luczak 自豪表示 ： 「我们投入很多时间和努 力，用心规划、务求精益求精。」 致力坚持终获回报，集团旗下酒店房 间常常客满，慕名光临「誉珑轩」及「御 膳房」的客人也大幅增加。Luczak 毫不讳 言： 「米其林奖项确实有很大的影响力，人 们会因此感兴趣到星级餐厅一探究竟。米 其林指南就是品质保证，有一定的公信力， 放诸四海皆准。」 Luczak 来自瑞典，十年前来到澳门， 背负起重要角色，并揽下多个业务范畴 。 除不断带领餐厅摘星之外，他也负责推广 市场行销 、督管新濠天地、新濠锋酒店及 新濠影汇的卫生及安全标准，管理每年庞 大的预算也是工作之一。他头脑冷静、一 丝不苟，严格稽核大小事务，同时也以高标 准检视自身绩效，不容任何松懈。从集团 营运的成就看来，其方式效果显著成功。 他笑着说 ： 「真要说有点像治国了，我 雇用和训练了一批特别部队作为我的菁英 品管士兵。」这些巡逻队员跑遍各个餐厅， 悉心观察、将所有体验巨细靡遗地记录下 来，他们还要测定侍应生的服务时间，从 点单到上菜需时多久通通不放过。他们会

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The man who helps keep Melco’s food and beverage empire humming smoothly shares his experienced insights with TK’s Mark Hammons.

Kristoffer Luczak

MOVERS & SHAKERS

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“ I think in the last few years there has been a far greater interest in foreign cuisine from the mainland Chinese.

Jin Luan Dian at Jade Dragon 誉珑轩金銮殿

DAVID HARTUNG

过去几年，中国大陆感兴趣于 外国美食的人口愈趋庞大。“

“I’ve hired and trained a special team, my elite soldiers of quality control.” These operatives roam the property, observing and taking note of everything they experience.

They time the waiters, recording precisely how long it takes an order to reach the table.

They request specific wines, checking on the temperature and condition as well as the information they are given about each one.

They pay attention to the smallest details, down to the grooming of staff and the cleanliness of restrooms.

“Their reports aren‘t based on feelings or impressions,” explains Luczak. “Instead, they’re given a set of standards, benchmarks by which they can judge exactly how we’re doing.” He believes that it’s nearly impossible to be objective about the place where one works and that removing personal bias from the equation is the only way to get a clear idea of how an establishment is faring and how to make it better. “Of course, it wasn’t well-received at first by our staff, but now they get it. We sit down with them once a week and the quality team just lays it out for them. It’s better getting criticism from within than losing a Michelin star! This method has changed our standards.”

But Luczak is also protective of his staff.

To ensure they are free to produce the best work they’re capable of, he believes they must be allowed to concentrate fully on their roles. “I’m like a buffer,” he says. “I try to support the chefs. They should only be worrying about their restaurants, I don’t want them getting distracted. They don’t need to understand the big economic picture, and I don’t want them to worry about suppliers or

点特别的酒、一一确认温度及保存情况， 以及提供每支酒的相关资料是否正确等等。 在他们眼中的每个细节，包括从员工仪容 到卫生间整洁都是评鉴项目。 Luczak 正色说道 ： 「评鉴可不是单靠个 人感觉或印象，而是有一套标准作为依据， 用以精确评断相关表现。」他知道要客观评 断自己工作的地方难度有多大，因而过程 中一定要抽离个人偏见，才能清楚知道机 制是否进行顺利，如何才可更上一层楼。 「当 然，一开始员工有点难以接受，但现在他 们已能了解我们的用心。品管团队藉由每 周一次的员工会议，提出评鉴结果，内部 接受批评的声音再怎样也都比丢掉米其林 星星好吧！这套方式也确实改变了公司的 作业标准。」 Luczak 同时也关切顾虑到旗下员工。 在他支持下，每个人只需专注眼前的工作， 各司其职，发挥所长。他强调 ： 「我会尽量 提供协助以缓减他们的压力，我会尽力支 援厨师、让他们除餐厅以外的事情都不用 担心，这样才可专心致志烹调美食。例如 和供应商联系或其他业务事情等，交给我 处理就好了。」 就他所见，强大的服务文化有两个层 次 ：带给员工归属感及提供一致​​的 服务水 准。 「心中设定的服务愿景要能深入浅出， 化成简单的指示供团队依循，像是微笑、眼 神接触、讲出客人名字等。这些听起来都是 再基本不过的东西，但能否一致做到才是关 键所在。这也有助加强年轻员工的自信心。 」 新濠博亚集团有著庞大的餐饮体系， 从刚开幕新濠影汇内的趣味优闲餐厅「澳 门食街游」到奢华的米其林二星高级餐厅， 每天供应餐点多达一万五千份，但每道菜 的品质对 Luczak 来说都一样重要，面食、 港式点​​心 及烧烤坚持自家现制，同时他竭 尽所能，就是为了取得最优质的食材。 auspicious tastes

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anything else – I can deal with that.”

He believes that a strong service culture is important on two levels: to give the staff a genuine sense that they belong and to ensure consistency of delivery to guests. “You need to break down exactly what your service culture means into easy pointers for the team.

For example, smile, make eye contact, use the guest’s name. It can be quite basic, but you really want consistency. It also helps to give younger staff some confidence.”

Every day fifteen thousand meals are served to the guests who visit Melco’s broad range of outlets, from the fun and casual Macau Gourmet Walk at the new Studio City to his two-Michelin-star fine dining restaurants. Luczak takes the quality of the food at each of them very seriously. Things like noodles, dim sum, and BBQ are all made in house, and he is fanatical about using the best ingredients obtainable.

Over the years he’s been in Macau, Luczak has noticed a positive change in the

quality and variety of produce available. “You can basically get anything in Macau, so I can be very choosy,” he says. Another noticeable change is in the customers. “I think in the last few years there has been a far greater interest in foreign cuisine from the mainland Chinese. They travel abroad regularly and now they have stronger ideas about how different cuisines should taste and be presented.”

He recently went on his own world tour, a sort of personal intelligence-gathering mission. “We traveled to Paris, Barcelona, San Sebastian, and Tokyo,” he says. “I wanted to visit top Michelin-star restaurants to see exactly what they’re up to and learn from them. I chose Paris, the home of Michelin, and Barcelona, which exploded as a culinary capital in the 1990s. San Sebastián has the highest concentration of Michelinstar restaurants, and Tokyo is another Asian city with exceptional cuisine.” What these successful restaurants all shared, he found, was one quality in particular that he prizes,

consistency. “With Michelin, the food and the service must be the same every time – the bread, the butter, the water, the main dish. The other thing I observed again and again was the emphasis on seasonal ingredients. I brought all this information home.”

When he returned, Luczak called a meeting with chefs Tam and Galliot to share his findings. They both decided to concentrate on sourcing the very best of seasonal ingredients. “We don’t have to stick just to the local products, we can take the cream of the crop from overseas too,” he says. “Using the knowledge we gathered, we decided to put together a culinary panel, and now each month the chefs, the core people, present their seasonal and regional dishes for the coming month. We don’t want menus overlapping, but we really do want them to follow the seasons.”

Luczak, jealously guarding the stars he helped their restaurants to win, insists that his teams stay on their toes. “We mustn’t get comfortable, we need to challenge ourselves

“ Don’t try to do another person’s job. If you cook, cook. Don’t try to do marketing, or the marketing people might just tell you how to cook your noodles.

在澳门这些年，他注意到，市面上质 精俱佳的食材越来越多，同时种类也十分 多样化。「在澳门，想得到的食材几乎都能 入手，无怪乎我变得越来越挑剔！」同时 他也发现到消费者喜好的转变，并指出 ： 「过去几年，中国大陆感兴趣于外国美食的 人口愈趋庞大，他们时常出国旅行，对于 各式料理的不同口味以及该展现方式都非 常有定见。」 Luczak 近来才展开世界之旅，某种层 面上像是个人的充电学习之旅。他说 ： 「我 们到巴黎、巴塞隆纳、圣赛巴斯堤安及东京， 造访顶尖米其林星级餐厅取经。巴黎是米 其林指南的发源地，巴塞隆纳自 90 年代以

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来展现惊人潜力，摇身一变成为餐饮之都 ； 圣赛巴斯堤安则是全球米其林星级餐厅最 集中的地方，而东京则是以精致美馔著称 的亚洲大城。」这些经营有道的餐厅的共同 之处，根据他的归纳，就在于「一致性」。 「以 米其林标准来说，食物及服务品质绝不允 许任何差池，每次都要一样好，面包、奶油、 水及主菜都是如此 ；而选用时令食材则是 另一条金科玉律，以上心得我通通带回澳 门和大家分享。」 Luczak 一回来便找谭师傅及 Galliot 会 面，畅谈所见所闻。三人一致达成共识， 将设法寻找品质一流的时令食材定为首要 任务。他强调 ： 「我们不想只侧重于本地农

产，所有海外最棒的食材也是我们的搜刮 目标。同时每月还召开烹饪小组会议，各 个厨师及核心成员都会运用所学，发表下 个月登场的当令及地区菜色。我们试图避 免菜单重复，然而却希望厨师们能跟着季 节趋势来创作。」 Luczak 协助旗下餐厅摘星成功，也深 知守成不易，因此十分谨慎，要求团队保 持战战兢兢的态度。「我们不能过于安逸， 一定要时时挑战自己，勇于创新。」展望未 来，他计划餐桌及装饰还会进一步升级翻 新，也添加了多位学有专精的生力军，葡 萄酒总监及侍茶师各一位，希望餐酒搭配 的水准上升到新的境界。

DAVID HARTUNG

做菜的时候就要把菜做好，别硬要跨足行销， 否则行销人员也可能只会请你专心把面煮好即可。“

constantly.” Looking forward, he’s making plans to upgrade table settings, and he has hired some new professionals, a director of wine and a tea sommelier, to raise the beverage and pairing services to an even higher level.

“I have an international management style but with some basic Swedish concepts,” says Luczak. “Part of my upbringing was living close to the land – picking mushrooms, fishing, hunting, smoking the meat, and making dishes from these natural things. I try to be accepting and open-minded, and I don’t believe I have a superiority complex, which can sometimes actually make life difficult!”

Luczak offers his staff a nugget of practical Nordic wisdom: “Don’t try to do another person’s job. If you cook, cook. Don’t try to do marketing, or the marketing people might just tell you how to cook your noodles. We should put all our efforts into looking after our customers and caring about the other members of the team. That’s how we beat the competition.”

Steamed Traditional Pork Dumplings with Abalone (Pearl Dragon) 鲍鱼烧卖皇 (玥龙轩）

Luczak 自我剖析 ： 「我有著国际化的 管理风格，也持著些基本的瑞典概念，可 能因为从小长大的背景，和所生长土地维 持非常紧密的关系－无论是采蘑菇、钓鱼、 打猎或是熏制肉类，都是运用大自然的资 源做菜。我尽量以开放的心胸接纳不同意 见，也不走高高在上的路线，那样只会让 生活更难过，对谁都没好处。」 他秉持的理念和常与员工分享的北欧智 慧语如出一辙 ： 「做菜的时候就要把菜做好， 别硬要跨足行销，否则行销人员也可能只会 请你专心把面煮好即可。全心全意照顾客人、 好好兼顾团队其他成员的需求。这些正是从 激烈竞争中脱颖而出的秘诀所在。 」 auspicious tastes

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Desmond Chang

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INTERVIEW

如意－古典复兴

ruyi renaissance The creator of the first modern luxury tableware designed for Chinese cuisine has inspired a gastronomic rebirth.

DAVID HARTUNG

BY MAMIE CHEN

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A WAITER DISCREETLY POURS a cup of Dongding oolong tea from a pristine white porcelain teapot that gleams with the same luster and warm translucence as fine jade. Admiring its auspiciously round, full shape, Desmond Chang pauses to contemplate the size. Have the practicalities of the custom-made extra large teapot overwhelmed the delicate balance and elegance of the design? He mentally files it away for later consideration.

As partner of Legle France, Chang should certainly know best, for the teapot is a central piece in the brand’s Ruyi tableware collection. He jointly conceived and designed the line with Creative Director Peter Ting as a result of an epiphany that came one day in France while chatting about food. Though Legle France’s collections were perfectly well-suited for French gastronomy,

the products’ profiles, such as the weight and depth of the bowls and the shape and balance of the spoons, weren’t quite right for the needs of Chinese cuisine. Both men were struck by the realization that there wasn’t one luxury tableware service meeting those needs.

“It was like I suddenly woke up,” recalls Chang. “I said, ‘Peter! Your mission is here. You are Chinese, you understand Chinese cuisine, and you are a professional porcelain designer. You must design a modern tableware service for Chinese gastronomy – for us and for all Chinese around the world.’”

Ting, a renowned name in the field, drew inspiration from the antiques, artifacts, and architecture of China (and from one classic Italian shoe designer),

Shanghainese and Private Kitchen 上海及私厨飨宴 MONARCH RESTAURANT IN SHANGHAI 上海康乾宴

“This was a great starting point for the whole Ruyi Gastronomy experience. In the old days, the best chefs didn’t work in restaurants, they worked privately for the best families. So we presented a private kitchen experience in an old French Concession house.” 「以此作为如意宴巡回起点再好不过了。以前在中国，最一流的厨师不在餐厅，而是落脚在富 贵人家，专责一家的餐点，所以我们选择了旧法国租借区洋房，提供独享的私厨体验。」

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侍者手持清莹的白瓷茶壶，映出顶级玉 材特有的亮泽及温暖光晕，为客人倒上 一杯冻顶乌龙茶。法国丽固执行董事张 聪着迷于茶壶具吉祥意涵的圆形、完满 的形状，忍不住端详茶壶大小起来。实 用性的客制化特大茶壶是否破坏细致平 衡及优雅设计的美感？过了半饷，他决 定将该问题留待稍后考量。 身为品牌合夥人，没人比他更清楚 答案为何，此一茶壶正是旗下如意餐具 系列中的主要产品。系列概念来自他和 创意总监丁念祖在法国聊起食物时的灵 光一现，接着共同发想并设计出产品。 用法国丽固系列产品来享受法式美食可 说是天衣无缝，然而产品的规格，如重 量、碗重及碗深、汤匙形状及整体平衡 似乎与中国菜有点格格不入。想到市场 尚无任何符合相关需求之奢华餐具组， 张聪才萌生打造顶级中国餐具的想法。 张聪回想那天表示 ： 「就像突然自梦 中惊醒，我和念祖说，你有事情要忙了！ 你是中国人，你懂中国菜，同时也是专 业瓷器设计师，一定要设计一套用以享 用中式美馔的现代餐具组－不仅为我们， 也是为了全世界的中国人。」 丁念祖为业界名声显赫的人物，由 中国古董、器物及建筑 , 以及一位经典 意大利鞋类设计师之中寻求灵感，于系 列里注入中华文化的精髓，再度引入古 典形状之美，以现代观点重新演绎中国 哲学及风水等概念。招牌的如意形状－ 圆弧角度、流线曲线及干净线条，在在 体现「外圆内方」的中式哲学，凸显慷 慨气度及协调美德之余，内心仍能保有 原则及规律。 他也专精于细腻的设计细节，让享 用中式美食过程中可能碰到的困扰迎刃 而解。注意到人们常用手持饭碗，设计 师贴心加上底缘，加上顶端的喇叭型开 口，完全不用担心接触到饭碗的热烫处。 汤碗底端则是特别加厚，搭配厚实碗盖， 保热性一流。中式汤匙形状已加调整， 较 为 窄 长， 匙 身 同 时 加 深， 握 手 弯 成 Ferragamo 招牌高跟鞋一般的美丽弧度， 让汤匙的实用性及设计美感进一步提升， 也兼顾轻量及造型平衡的需求。 张聪则负责妆点丁念祖所设计的各 式造型，曾为艺术家的身份让他在钻研 中国历史不同时代的经典设计及图形时

Cantonese 广式美馔 THE RITZ-CARLTON, HONG KONG 丽思卡尔顿酒店，香港

“When we first started the Ruyi Gastronomy, we didn’t even know if anyone would be interested. But after the Ruyi at the Ritz-Carlton, where Tin Lung Heen produces some of the most sophisticated Cantonese cuisine in the world, we knew we were on to something very special and that the concept was highly appreciated by a lot of restaurateurs and hoteliers.”

COURTESY OF LEGLE (2)

「推动如意宴初期，谁会有兴趣我们毫无头绪，但于丽思卡尔顿的如意宴 之后一切变得明朗，天龙轩打造的粤菜，精致程度于全世界首屈一指。我们顿 时知道自己做的事有多特别，同时也受到许多餐厅及酒店经营者好评。」

乐此不疲。战国时期的仿玉项链装饰于圆 顶盖上，缀着金色斑点的玫瑰色餐盘展现 的是中国最早出口的奢侈品－唐朝漆器之 美。如意系列产品之宋朝龙泉开片纹路、 元朝釉里红，以及明清两代备受推崇之青 花瓷纵贯中国数千年历史，展现中华文化 的博大精深之处。 投身中国艺术历史，用餐相关的古代 传统及社会礼俗让张聪惊艳不已。唐朝时 期画作中关于音乐、舞蹈以及细腻的餐酒 搭配多有着墨，丝丝入扣。他也发现在宋 朝，用餐必须行礼如仪，就像今日造访米 其林三星餐厅一般，如在矮桌前跪屈以及 一道道依序分食等需要遵守的各种规矩。 张聪指出 ： 「分餐制度源自中国，很多 中菜厨师还以为这种上菜服务来自西方， 真的是大错特错。即使到 1890 年，分餐

都还是宫廷或富贵之家的唯一用餐方法。 这种文化及所有高级用餐传统如今已不复 见。」 张聪由此切入，打造互动性的平台展 示如意系列产品，除了让更多人意识到餐 具在享用中式美馔过程中扮演的重要角色 之外，也希望藉此唤回中华文化中奢华且 精致的用餐艺术。如意宴于上海打响第一 炮后，陆续巡回大中华地区多家餐厅限量 登场。对此他可说亲力亲为，从打点菜单 及菜色搭配，和各大名厨密切合作，到以 当代风格演绎各地美食等等。如意宴赋予 每道菜的故事，引领中国美馔继续往前迈 进。着墨的不仅是食物的味道，摆盘及视 觉印象，服务质量及整体用餐体验也都是 关键所在。 如意宴从许多层面来看，已经成为张

聪生活的一大寄托，至今办过超过 300 场 如意宴，让宾客浸淫于纯正中式飨宴丰富 的历史、传统及风华当中。「中华美食的文 艺复兴是我的终极目标，让现已不复见、 礼赞美食的华美烂漫文化再现。我真的想 让大家了解，中国人曾经知道奢华及精致 为何物。」他接着问道 ： 「我们的美感、生 活以及美食的品味到哪去了？灵魂又在哪 里？」 目前为止，如意宴已让宾客体验过六 大地方菜系 ：上海、淮扬、香港、广东、 台湾及北京。每次飨宴均是客座大厨发挥 创意精心打造，于精挑细选的地点举行， 服务品质不在话下外，也考虑市场的接受 度。台北文华东方酒店的如意宴计划进行 至今年一月底，并正商讨廷长之可能性。 之后计划落脚上海开设据点、于欧洲提供 auspicious tastes

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INTERVIEW

Beijing 北京美馔

WALDORF ASTORIA BEIJING 北京华尔道夫酒店

instilling the essence of the Chinese ethos in the collection by reviving ancient shapes and introducing modern interpretations of Chinese philosophy and feng shui traditions. The signature Ruyi shape – rounded corners, fluid curves, and clean lines – embodies a Chinese principle, wai yuan nei fang (“round on the outside, square on the inside”), that extols the virtue of displaying generosity and accommodation while remaining principled and disciplined at heart.

Ting also dealt with small design details to address the pragmatic concerns specific to Chinese cuisine. Recognizing that rice bowls are generally held in the hand, he has added a generous footrim to the bottom of the bowl and a flared lip at the top so that the diner’s hand need never touch the heated part of the bowl. He has fashioned the soup bowls with extra thickness on the bottom and a heavy lid to ensure heat retention. Even the shape of the Chinese soup spoon has been narrowed, the bowl deepened, and the curve of the handle arched like the silhouette of Ferragamo’s iconic high heel, enhancing both the utility and artistry of the spoon while preserving its light weight and balance.

Meanwhile, Chang took responsibility for dressing the shapes created by Ting.

Chang delighted in researching classical designs and patterns from different periods throughout Chinese history. A replica jade pendant from the Warring States period tops a domed lid. A rose-colored dish flecked with gold represents Tang dynasty lacquer, the earliest luxury items exported from China. Integrating thousands of years of Chinese history and culture into the Ruyi collection are the cracked celadon patterns from the Song dynasty Longquan kilns, underglaze red decorations from the Yuan dynasty, and the celebrated cobalt blue and white qing-hua porcelain of the Ming and Qing dynasties.

It was while delving into Chinese art history that Chang was stunned to discover the ancient traditions and social mores around dining. Paintings from the Tang dynasty

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depict sophisticated features like music and dancing and the pairing of food with alcoholic beverages. He learned that the dining experience during the Song dynasty was as ritualized as a modern-day visit to a threestar Michelin restaurant and included such formalities as kneeling before low tables, known as an, and the personal service of separate courses in sequence.

“The Chinese were the first to have the degustation,” says Chang. “Many Chinese chefs today think that serving course by course is a Western style, but they are absolutely wrong. Even as late as 1890, it was the only way to serve meals at the imperial courts or in the homes of the rich. But we lost our culture and all the traditions of Chinese haute cuisine.”

Chang saw an opportunity to showcase the Ruyi collection by means of an interactive platform that would reclaim tableware as an important element of Chinese gastronomy and help to revive the lost art of sumptuous, sophisticated Chinese fine dining. For the inaugural Ruyi Gastronomy experience in Shanghai and all the subsequent limitedrun collaborations with restaurants around Greater China, he personally curated the menu and dish pairing, challenging the respective chefs to present modern interpretations of their regional cuisines. In leading Chinese gastronomy forward, Chang worked to ensure that every single dish had a story behind it. His attention was not focused solely on the taste of the food, but also on the flow of the menu, the presentation and visual impact of the dishes, the quality of service, and the overall dining experience.

The Ruyi Gastronomy has in many ways become Chang’s calling in life. He has already hosted well over three hundred Ruyi Gastronomy events, reintroducing guests to the history, traditions, and splendor of authentic Chinese banquets. “My ultimate goal is to inspire a renaissance in Chinese cuisine,” he says, “to bring back the beauty and lavish celebration of food that we had at one time and have lost. I really want to remind people that

“I always wanted to bring the Ruyi to Beijing, but we had to be patient. Ideally, it should take place in a siheyuan [traditional Chinese quadrangle]. Even after the Waldorf Astoria offered their location, I found the menu to be very challenging.

Because, what is Beijing cuisine? In my formula, Shangdong cuisine made up the backbone, with representation from imperial court cuisine, Manchurian cuisine, and Tan cuisine.” 「在北京办如意宴一直是我的梦想，但 这事情急不来。理想来说，如意宴最 好可以在四合院(传统中式四方形建 筑)办。华尔道夫酒店作为场地定下来 后，我们便开始伤脑筋要呈现什么菜 色。说到底，北京菜是什么？我的想 法是以山东菜作为骨干，再融合宫廷 菜、满州菜及谭家菜等不同元素。」

the Chinese once knew luxury and sophistication, and then ask, ‘What happened to our sense of beauty, our taste for life and for food? Where is our soul?’”

To date, the Ruyi Gastronomy experience has explored six regional cuisines: Shanghainese, Huaiyang, Hong Kong, Cantonese, Taiwanese, and Beijing. Each stop on the Ruyi journey has involved a careful consideration of the creativity of the chef, the appropriateness of the venue, the quality of the service, and the readiness of the market.

COURTESY OF LEGLE

The Taiwanese Ruyi Gastronomy at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei is currently scheduled to run through the end of January 2016 with discussions underway for a possible extension. Future plans include a permanent venue in Shanghai, pop-up experiences in Europe, and further touring around Chinese regions – Sichuan tops Chang’s list, but he is patiently waiting for the right market conditions in Chengdu.

Ultimately, Chang is hoping to spark a movement among the Chinese gastronomy

community. “The Ruyi Gastronomy is just one voice,” he says. “We can be the first to raise the questions, but we are too small to be the ultimate answer. If Chinese chefs and restaurateurs roll with the concept and present their version of a Ruyi 2.0 – say, modern Cantonese or modern Beijing gastronomy – then maybe the renaissance in Chinese cuisine will happen.” And for Desmond Chang, creator and chief evangelist of the Ruyi Gastronomy, that would be a dream fulfilled.

快闪体验，并继续巡回大中华地区－四 川目前是张聪的第一优先，但他并不急， 会继续观察，等到成都市场成熟再进场。 张聪最终想在中式美食界掀起一股 风潮，他强调 ： 「如意宴只是其中之一， 我们或可当提出问题的前行者，但要拿 出最终解答的话，我们仍力有未逮。如 若中餐厨师及餐厅经营者群起效尤祭出 如意宴 2.0 版－像现代广东或现代北京飨 宴，那确实就离中菜美食复兴到来不远 了。 」那一天，对于如意宴创始者及灵魂 人物张聪来说，想必有如美梦成真。 auspicious tastes

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三星庆祥年

Auspicious Stars A forty-seven-year career in the kitchen has earned a respected chef one of the culinary world’s highest accolades.

BY LUCY MORGAN

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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Kwong Wai Keung 邝伟强 AUSPICIOUS TASTES | TK |

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TASTING NOTES

K W O N G W A I K E U N G , Executive Chef, Chinese cuisine of T ’ang Court at The Langham, Hong Kong, remains very modest when asked about the remarkable fact that his restaurant receives three stars in the 2016 Michelin Guide – only the third Cantonese restaurant in the world to achieve such status. “I started cooking at thirteen,” he says, “and to begin with, it was just a job.

But as I grew more accomplished and realized how much happiness I could bring to my guests, I fell in love with it. Cooking is my life’s work.”

Chef Kwong joined T’ang Court in 1988 and went on to spend time on the mainland developing the Langham Hospitality Group’s signature Chinese restaurants before returning two years ago. T’ang Court received its first Michelin star in 2009, its second in 2013.

The Michelin Guide is the most internationally respected measure of restaurant quality. For over a hundred years their undercover “inspectors” have been dining the world over, evaluating cuisine and delivery.

One star indicates a “very good restaurant in its category,” two mean “excellent cooking that is worth a detour,” and three recognize “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.”

Chef Kwong attributes success to several factors. “I think it’s a combination of rigor and experience,” he says. “The most important thing is to use the correct techniques to bring out the flavors. I can look at an ingredient and know exactly how to cook it in order to show it in its best light. That’s something that comes with time.” How does he view current trends? “More Chinese cooks are using Western techniques and utensils,” he says. “But I believe you should cook the traditional way. And I believe that it’s essential to cook healthy, natural food.

People don’t believe I’m a chef unless I‘m wearing my whites, because most chefs are fat! All my brothers and sisters have retired, but I feel healthy and can cope with the long hours because I eat very well.”

This Chinese New Year, Chef Kwong will be offering a menu of his healthiest, most delicious and auspicious creations to his guests at T’ang Court. And from the descriptions that follow, it looks like they will be eating very well, too.

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↑ Baked Seafood Rice with Cream Sauce in Crab Shell Perfectly done rice is piled into a crab shell, then topped with succulent crabmeat, prawns, scallops, onions, and mushrooms in a delicate white sauce and finished with melted cheddar. “Guests asked me for fried rice, so I invented this – it’s more fun,” says Chef Kwong of his award-winning dish. “At first I just put the crab shell straight on the plate, but it didn’t look good, so I designed this stand – like a crab’s exoskeleton fashioned from auspicious gold metal.”

唐阁宝盒饭 炊饭火侯拿捏精准，出炉后填入蟹壳，再迭上鲜美多汁的蟹肉、鲜虾、扇贝、 洋葱及蘑菇，淋上精心调制的白酱，佐以半融的巧达起司便大功告成。 「唐阁」 中餐行政总厨邝伟强介绍这道获奖菜 ： 「客人想吃炒饭，我便创作了这道菜，还 变得更好玩。开始只是单纯把蟹壳放盘子上，不是特别好看，所以我便设计了 这个金黄色的蟹壳容器，亮眼的颜色有吉祥喜气之意。 」

→ Sautéed Sliced Lobster with Crab Roe, Chinese Kale and Water Chestnut “The Chinese love puns,” says Chef Kwong. “The name for this dish in Chinese means both ‘dragon horse’ and ‘vigorous life.’ We can’t eat a dragon or a horse, so I use things whose Chinese names sound similar – lobster and water chestnuts. The lobster shell on the plate is a visual symbol of vigor, and the seafood and vegetables give a healthy beginning to the year ahead. A little lucky red crab roe with the scarlet lobster, and this dish even looks auspicious.”

龙马显精神 邝伟强说 ： 「中国人爱用双关语，这菜名代表了『龙马』及『旺盛的生命力』 。 我们吃不到龙或马，所以我特别选用读音听来像龙及马的食材－龙虾及菱角 ( 又 名马蹄 ) 来创作。餐盘上的龙虾壳象征精气活力，海鲜及蔬菜则寓意一年之初有 个健康的开始。浅红蟹膏及龙虾的艳红色泽让人联想到好运，吃了这道菜绝对可 以带来好兆头。 」

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Sautéed Prawns and Crab Roe with Golden-Fried Pork and Crabmeat Puffs Crispy parcels of pork and crab complement sweet prawns, whose bright tails become part of the presentation. Tender bamboo shoots carved into delicate leaves give a flash of fresh color and taste. Available year round, the dish is perfect for the New Year table. “The puffs are meant to resemble coins, a symbol of wealth and good fortune,” explains the chef. “I combined the ‘coins’ with stir-fried prawns to mix tradition and modernity on one plate – and it works!”

金钱鲜虾球 酥脆的猪肉及蟹肉片与虾肉的甜味相辅相成，鲜亮的虾 尾更是成为摆盘的亮点之一。质地脆嫩的竹笋雕 成树叶状，点缀色泽及味道，带来一丝清爽。 这道菜全年都吃得到，放上新年围炉餐 桌更是再适合不过。总厨形容 ： 「虾 球 形 状 像 钱 币 一 样， 象 征 财 富及好运， 『钱币』搭配 炒虾则有种融合传统 及现代风格的感 觉， 效 果 极 佳！」

TASTING NOTES

Steamed Egg White with Bird’s Nest, Minced Yunnan Ham, Crab Meat and Crab Roe A delicate crown of bird’s nest sits on a two-tone pool of nourishing golden soup made from Yunnan ham and chicken. Concealed is a quivering layer of perfectly steamed egg white. Crab roe and a sprig of coriander on top add seasonal color. “Bird’s nest contains collagen, which is very good for the skin,” explains Chef Kwong.

“Ladies in Hong Kong eat this dish at New Year so they can look gorgeous all year long.”

香港朗廷酒店「唐阁」甫获「2016 年米其林指南」三颗星殊荣， 成为全球第三家摘下三星的粤菜餐厅，中餐行政总厨邝伟强依 「我十三岁开始煮菜，当初只是当成工作， 旧一派谦逊表示 ： 但渐渐越来越有成就感，通过料理让客人感受无比幸福。烹饪 自此成为我的最爱，也是终身的志业。 」

1988 年加入「唐阁」后，邝伟强大半时间待在内地，专 心协助朗廷酒店集团打造旗下的招牌中式餐厅，直到两年前 才返回香港。 「唐阁」于 2009 年首获米其林一星肯定，后于

2013 年拿下第二颗星。 米其林指南为国际级餐厅圣经，权威性毋庸置疑。创刊百 年来，美食「特派员」到世界各地微服出巡，品评餐点及餐厅

万寿映银冠

综合水平。一星代表餐厅品质于该类别表现「非常优秀」；二

晶莹的燕窝围成皇冠状，浸在云南火腿及鸡肉熬煮而成的

星则是「料理品质卓著，值得顺道一访」；三星殊荣意即「菜

双色金黄高汤中，看来相当滋养。覆盖的是一层蒸得刚好

色表现无懈可击，需要专程造访。 」

的微颤细嫩蛋白，缀以上方的蟹膏及一叶香菜增添了季节

餐厅获此肯定，总厨归功于以下几点。 「一板一眼严格要

的色彩。总厨形容 ： 「燕窝胶质丰富，对皮肤益处多多。香

求加上丰富经验，就是我们的特色。如何运用适当技巧带出食

港的女性客人如在新年吃这道菜，那一整年都能看起来光

物美味正是关键所在，只消看上食材一眼，我就知道要怎么煮

鲜亮丽。 」

才能把它们的优点发挥得淋漓尽致，这正是经验的淬炼。 」对 于目前的美食趋势，邝伟强指出 ： 「运用西方技巧及用具的中 菜厨师越来越多，但烹饪仍旧不能悖离传统方法，这也正是煮 得健康、烹调天然食材的不二法门。很多人觉得我看起来不像 厨师，非得套上厨师袍才相信，毕竟厨师给人的印象仍是心宽 体胖居多！我的兄弟姊妹早已退休，但我吃得好也吃得巧，身 体还很健康、长时间工作也没有任何问题。 」 为了迎接即将到来的中国农历新年，邝总厨精心打造兼顾 健康美味，散发浓浓吉祥味的贺年美馔，以飨宴长年支持「唐 阁」的客人。从以上菜色介绍看来，这些饕客绝对有机会像总 厨一样吃得「好到不能再好。 」

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年味大赏

Auspiciously Delicious Festivals, family, and food are nearly synonymous in China, especially during Lunar New Year, the calendar’s happiest and most hopeful season.

BY JANE RAM

My lips are sealed

吃甜点说好话

All traditional Chinese kitchens have a picture or effigy of the Kitchen God, Zao Jun, close to the stove. He is considered the most important of the many Chinese domestic deities that protect family members and their health.

A week before the Chinese New Year, Zao Jun ascends to heaven to present his report card on each family member to the Jade Emperor. This supreme deity adds up the balance on both sides of the ledger and dispenses rewards and punishments to the entire household.

But the Kitchen God is eminently susceptible to bribery. Just to sweeten his report a bit, his lips are smeared with an initial blandishment of malt sugar candies, perhaps followed by a further inducement of some nian gao , the Chinese New Year cakes made of

传统中国厨房里习惯在火炉旁放张主管厨

glutinous rice and honey. White spirit is poured over the picture and ignited to ensure Zao Jun a quick trip to his heavenly destination. In his absence, normal behavioral constraints can safely be lifted, but on the fourth day, the Kitchen God is officially welcomed back, and once again the family is under surveillance for another year.

灶君图像前洒上白酒点火以送神回天上述

房之神－灶君的图片或画像。灶君在众多 与家庭相关的中国神祇中数一数二，据传 可保家族平安及身体健康。 农历年前一周，相传灶君会返回天 庭向天界至高无上的神－玉皇大帝奏报一 家在一年中的功过，供玉帝于善恶天平两 端拿捏，决定全家赏罚。 不 过 灶 君 也 是 出 了 名 的 耳 根 子 软， 想让他在玉帝面前美言几句就要先收买他 的胃，准备点麦芽糖可以封他的嘴，再送 上些糯米及蜂蜜制成的农历新年糕点－年 糕的话，效果更好。根据传统，人们要在 职，灶君「回职」期间整家人可以放风、 平日遵行的规矩可以暂时抛诸脑后，但大 年初四迎神回府之后，全家可又得在灶君 眼皮子底下循规蹈矩一整年才行。 auspicious tastes

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Life is sweet If sweet foods are a requirement for influencing the gods, they’re also essential at the festive celebrations of mortals, both to signify future happiness and to create it in the here and now. Today’s affluent environment makes it easy to forget that within living memory, sugar in China was a rare luxury, which made the candied fruits and other sweet snacks at Lunar New Year all the more special. In addition to sugar and honey, all the other ingredients for the traditional seasonal sweets are readily available nowadays, including sesame seeds, lotus seeds, peanuts, water chestnuts (whole and flour), taro, and red bean.

The good old days Until recent decades, the kitchen was the center of power in Chinese households. Rising standards of living have made dining out more affordable, but a Hong Kong friend, Ivy Chow, remembers former times: “People were accustomed to an annual storm of activity ahead of the New Year celebrations. My mother is nearing ninety, but she still gets nervous in the lead-up to Chinese New Year, even though she no longer needs to lift a finger.

“Looking back, I don’t know how she managed all the housework without help.

Major cleaning included washing all the bedding and curtains by hand – we had no washing machine in those days. Mother took pride in hand-sewing new clothes for all four of us girls. But the biggest challenge of all was the many long days – and nights – spent preparing the food.

“First, she planned a sumptuous family dinner for one or two nights before New Year’s Day. It had to include a hearty soup, boiled for three or four hours, and the ingredients had to be expensive – chicken and abalone, pork with lotus root, and dried octopus. My family is Cantonese, so our menu included freshly slaughtered steamed chicken, steamed whole fish or stuffed fish, pork knuckle with black moss, and sweet and sour pork. The names of all the dishes sounded like auspicious messages, and the total number could never be seven, which is associated with funeral meals. At midnight we would enjoy sweet sesame dumplings to symbolize family union.

“My father was the eldest in his family and my mother was second-eldest in hers, so all their younger siblings would bring all their children to convey the obligatory New

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Year greetings. It was like running a restaurant without a booking system. My mother never knew how many relatives would show up and when. Even if they didn’t stay for lunch or dinner, they had to be served homemade turnip cake and sweet glutinous rice cakes, along with deep-fried yam balls or sesame puff balls. The fancy box of melon seeds, sweetened lotus seeds, and gold-coin chocolates had to be constantly replenished, and she had to provide endless quantities of fruits and pu-erh tea to aid digestion.

“By the end of the festival, my mother was totally exhausted. But she was driven by the belief that beginning the New Year with abundant food would lead to good fortune for the next twelve months, so she would never cut back to simplify her life. Later, I came to realize that it was her annual chance to shine, and she reveled in the glory.”

gold bullion. We also made yau kwok , crispy triangles shaped like coin purses, whose name signifies money and prosperity.”

In Beijing, the making of the savory dumplings known as jiaozi is a major winter pastime. Kenny Fu, one of the city’s celebrity chefs, recalls childhood memories of his extended family making special pork dumplings on the first day of the festival. “Only one out of hundreds of dumplings had a coin in it. If you were fortunate enough to get that one, your luck was set for the following year.

The more you ate, the better your chances.”

In 2015, Fu opened his own restaurant, Kenny’s Burgers, and he plans to keep it open throughout the holidays, unlike most of the city’s eateries. “This year I plan to make dumplings, but only for staff. Of course, if customers request them, they can have free samples.

Pork, Chinese chives, lucky red-colored carrot, black fungus, and golden sweet corn will be the filling ingredients, plus cabbage – still the most abundant fresh winter vegetable.”

Eat your spinach

Bundles of joy Dumplings have a significance far beyond their status as Chinese comfort food. The term for wrapping, bao , takes on metaphorical meaning in the New Year thought that good luck and happiness are enfolded in the skins, and the beloved morsels have long since come to symbolize family togetherness and reunion.

Linda Wong, another friend from Hong Kong, recalls her childhood: “When the family gathered together, everyone got involved in making the food as well as eating it. On the last few days of the old year, we prepared jin dui (literally, “golden spheres”).

First, we rolled a mixture of sweet corn, sugar, and sesame seeds into balls, then covered them with an outer layer of glutinous rice until they were larger than tennis balls.

We dropped them into a huge wok of boiling oil to fry them golden brown. As the evening wore on, our ‘riches’ piled up like heaps of

Zhang Zhe, a writer from Beijing, learned from a member of a Manchu family about some unique New Year dumplings that take ten months to make: “Preparations begin as early as mid-April when fresh spinach is very cheap in the market. Zhang Nan buys a large quantity and suspends it from strings in the open air, well away from sunlight. The leaves must be turned from time to time until they are completely dry. It has to be checked every day to ensure it’s not rotting. When it’s ready, the paper-dry spinach is transferred to a large box in a cool place until the day before New Year’s Eve. “Then she soaks the desiccated leaves in cold water overnight. The following morning, everything must be thoroughly cleaned – not an easy job, since the soil on the leaves has become deeply ingrained. The next step is to boil them in hot water for a few minutes and then cut them up on a board, after which they’re treated like any vegetable stuffing for regular ingot-shaped dumplings. The skins are always homemade using special flour from Inner Mongolia, which Ms. Zhang believes produces the best texture.

“One Spring Festival I was invited to taste some. They were delicious, with an unforgettably intense flavor. Ms. Zhang told me that her family has made them this way for countless generations, but since other family members think it too complicated, she is the only one who carries on the tradition.”

香甜好滋味 甜食魅力无穷，连神明都难

在 北 京， 包 美 味 的 饺

享用甜芝麻丸子，代表阖家

子可说是许多人冬季打发时

团圆。 」

间的最佳消遣之一。在地知

「父母亲刚巧都是家中

以抗拒，对凡人更是如此。

最年长的子嗣，过年期间，

名的大厨付洋（Kenny Fu）

除了在各大庆祝仪式中扮演

他们的弟妹会带下一代来拜

对于小时候大年初一回老家

重要角色，象征幸福未来之

年，一同恭贺新禧。要形容

制作的特别猪肉饺子还记忆

外，也寓意能于此时此地开

的话，有点像是客人来餐厅

犹新 ： 「几百个饺子中只有

创更美好的前景。今日丰裕

却没法预先订位。母亲永远

一个包有钱币，有幸吃到钱

的环境常让人容易忘记，不

不知道下个亲戚何时会来、

饺的人，代表整年好运一路

久前糖品在中国还曾是奢侈

有多少人要来搭伙用餐。即

发。饺子吃得越多，中奖的

的享受，但这也显出每逢农

使没留下来吃午餐或晚餐，

机率越大。 」

历新年才能品尝的冰糖水果

也定要奉上自制萝卜糕或甜

及其他甜食的特别之处。时

香年糕点招待，有时也会有

「Kenny’s Burgers」 开 张，

至今日，除糖及蜂蜜以外，

酥炸芋球或芝麻酥球。诱人

决定和北京的同业们反其道

其他新年的传统甜点食材也

全盒摆满瓜籽、冰糖莲子及

而行，过年也不打烊。 「今

变得相当常见， 像是芝麻籽、

钱币巧克力等甜滋滋年节零

年我要做饺子，不过是员工

莲子、花生、菱角 ( 整颗或

食，要拿随时都有。母亲也

限定的。客人真想吃的话，

马蹄粉 )、芋头及红豆等等

要备妥各式水果、倒上普洱

也是会包上几个让他们尝尝

都不难找到。

茶， 让 客 人 吃 了 东 西 好 消

鲜。馅料里吃得到猪肉、韭

化。 」

菜、喜气的红萝卜、黑木耳

2015 年付洋的汉堡店

「年节进入尾声，母亲

以及黄金玉米，当然也要用

美好旧日时光

可谓筋疲力尽，此时让她不

上冬天当季最多产的高丽

计辛劳的，正是开年丰盛年

菜。 」

直到最近的几十年，厨房都

菜可整年带来满满福气这句

是一般中国家庭的权力中

话，为达此目标，她必定全

心，然而随着生活水平的提

力以赴，绝不只做半套。直

高， 此 一 趋 势 逐 渐 发 生 转

到后来，我才体会到，年节

变，外出用膳越见平常。香

是她一年一度可以大展身手

北京土生土长的作家张喆从

港在地的老朋友周勤仪忆起

的机会，无怪乎每次都是神

满州朋友张楠那听闻有种饺

过往的日子说道 ： 「过年前

采奕奕、光芒四射。 」

子十分特别，耗时 10 个月

优良传统波菜饺

才能做成。 「四月中趁市场

总有一大串事情要忙，那种

感觉大家再熟悉不过。我将 近 90 岁的高龄母亲，即使

上新鲜菠菜卖价便宜时就要

包起幸福欢乐

开始大量买进，以作备料，

想到过年将至还是忍不住紧

饺子在中国不仅是吃得开心

着，每片叶子都要悉心不时

张起来。 」

而已，还带有非常重要的意

拨动直至全干，每天必定要

「现在想想，还真不知

涵，所谓的「元宝」于新年

检查一回， 以免有腐烂之虞。

她当时是怎么一个人搞定家

时期有重大的象征意义，犹

一切妥当之后，干燥如纸的

里所有大小事。拿大扫除来

如一层一层地将好运及幸福

菠菜叶放到大桶子中，置于

说，就有手洗所有床具、被

包覆起来。饺子长久以来备

阴凉处，直到除夕夜前一日

套及窗帘等繁重工作，那个

受广大中国人喜爱，全家团

才派上用场。 」

年代并没洗衣机可用。母亲

圆及聚首时总少不了这一

亲手缝制我们四姊妹的新

味。

现在过著闲适的生活，但光

在空气流通的阴暗处挂绳吊

「干叶用冷水浸泡一 夜， 隔 天 一 早 要 彻 底 清 洗

衣，成就感十足。但要说最

另一位香港老友王梁

一遍，然而洗净过程并不轻

难捱的，排行第一必定还是

洁华也记起小时候 ： 「全家

松，因为土粒已深深附于叶

没日没夜准备的大量年菜

人到齐后，每个人分工合作

子 上。 下 一 步 便 是 把 菠 菜

。 」

准备食物，之后一起享用。

放进热水煮几分钟后切碎，

「新年前连续一两天要

新年假期的最后几天，就是

然后就能像其他菜料一般

煮出一桌丰盛的年夜饭，要

吃煎堆 ( 意即金球 ) 的时候

包 进 元 宝 状 的 饺 子 里。 饺

有需时三到四个小时熬制的

了，先把混和玉米、糖及芝

子皮沿用内蒙古出产的特

浓汤， 食材也必需珍贵奢华，

麻籽的面团滚成球状，外面

殊 面 粉 手 工 揉 制 而 成， 以

包括鸡肉及鲍鱼、猪肉及莲

盖上一层糯米，大小超过网

张 姐 的 意 见 来 说， 这 样 口

藕和章鱼干。我们家是广东

球就差不多了，接着放入一

感最好。 」

人，菜色也一定会有刚宰杀

大锅热油中炸至呈金黄焦

「有次春节吃到这种饺

的蒸煮全鸡、蒸全鱼或镶鱼

色，随着夜幕低垂，叠起金

子真的很令人惊艳，味道绝

肉、发菜猪手及糖醋猪肉，

球，象征金银满屋。三角形

佳，浓郁风味一尝难忘。张

以上所有菜名都有新年吉庆

的酥脆油角也是过年桌上常

姐说她们家族世世代代都这

贺词的谐音。另外绝对不能

客，形状有如零钱包，名字

样做饺子，只是其他家人觉

上七道菜，否则会和丧事有

吉祥意味十足，代表发大财

得做工太繁复，只剩她一人

所联想。半夜吉时则会全家

及家家兴旺。 」

依旧守着传统作法不变。 」 AUSPICIOUS TASTES | TK |

59

大雪纷飞返乡难 2008 年 1 月 寒 冬 来 得

仍津津乐道。 「豆豉酱卤

所有宾客想听的贺年词

又急又快，让人措手不

猪肚是传统客家菜，盛

「年年有余」 ，加上喜气

及，异常大的降雪量致

于陶锅上桌，这个季节

十足的红色石斑鱼，更

使北京街道及铁路系统

我们客家庄几乎人人都

让这道菜成为餐桌上的

瘫痪，让数以百万计的

会做这道菜。以前那个

亮点。

异乡劳动者，在农历新

年代，猪只有过年才会

林师傅的红烧猪

年前的华北返乡之路变

杀来吃，烹调也相当费

手和芋泥酱生菜搭配的

得 辛 苦 非 常。 黄 梅 芳

时。 」

恰到好处之外，也带来

在广东省云浮市经营两

「总共需要五层猪 肚 及 猪 肉， 加 入 豆 豉、

话的生菜听来就像「生

来自华北，无不归心似

大蒜及葱风味很棒，同

财」 ， 而猪手音近「就手」 ，

箭。眼看新闻预报天气

时也要取手掌大小的猪

有迅速达成所想的意思。

不见好转，黄梅芳当机

肝，汇集其他所有味道。

年节不可或缺的还有香

立断把员工送往广州火

那是我最爱的部位，父

煎糯米制成的年糕，吃

车站，希望赶上全线停

亲也总独厚我，其他人

了 有「 年 年 步 步 高 升 」

开前的最后一班车。员

抢着吃猪皮时，只有我

之意。

工费尽千辛万苦终于挤

有猪肝吃。 」

上车，然而天候恶化速

「山药炒家常腊肉

度出乎预期，几个小时

也是另一道我们常吃的

后仍困在车站。

简单乡村料理，即便父

香港近期开幕的火红餐

亲离开已经十年，这些

厅「大公馆」行政总厨

立純如回想当时情景表

菜仍是我最珍贵的新年

陈伟庭为年菜带来新意，

示，留在工厂的同事思

记忆。鲍鱼这种珍稀食

创新手法满足喜欢尝鲜

乡 愁 难 盖，万 分 懊 恼 ：

材或丰盛的烤乳猪无法

饕客的味蕾。他强调： 「有

「我们知道火车停开之

吸引我的目光，用心烹

些传统食材将以新的烹

后，就决意叫他们赶紧

煮的简单料理才是重点，

调及摆盘方式呈现，当

回工厂来－这也是你们

带来全家共享的触动及

然香菇、鲍鱼、龙虾及

的家，在工厂一起过年

爱是在任何餐厅都找不

鱼肉等喜气食材也会通

吧！」

到的。 」

通保留。 」

「那一年寒风阵阵

「我母亲亲手制造

的除夕夜，工厂里约有

谐音就是王道

的酥炸芋球美味一试难

彼此像家人一样有说有

香港赛马会马场中菜总

清二楚。每逢过年时节

笑， 包 了 几 千 颗 饺 子，

厨师长林云辉表示 ： 「传

才吃得到，但在家做太

高丽菜肉馅、韭菜肉馅

统一点的中国人过年时

过费工，现在市面都只

及 芹 菜 肉 馅 应 有 尽 有。

喜欢玩文字游戏，取字

剩大量制造的芋球，味

我们一同吃饺子，高歌

里行间的象征意义。所

道无法比拟。 」

跳舞，好玩极了。有个

以我们创作菜单时，首

同事的话我现在还记得

先要注意的就是所谓中

了许多特别的年节料理，

一清二楚 ： 『大雪的事先

式食材有无好运及发财

但 其 中 以「 袋 袋 平 安 」

不管，至少我们都觉得

等吉祥意味，然后再找

的 年 菜 让 我 特 别 自 豪。

安心、温暖及快乐，不

来珍稀及高价的食材。 」

首先将日式豆腐油炸至

是吗？』 」

「发财好市」这道 菜 汇 集 各 式 顶 级 食 材，

|

TK | auspicious tastes

同中求异

工厂行销部门的陳

超 过 一 百 个 同 事 聚 集，

60

应景的吉祥气息。广东

家大云石厂，员工多半

忘，到现在我还记得一

「这些年来我创作

外皮酥脆，放冷后用汤 匙从中挖空，镶入切得

料理用心无可比

吃得到炖煮干生蚝搭配

恰到好处的干贝 、海参、

发 菜 以 及 鲍 鱼、 生 蚝、

鱼翅及帝王花胶，接着

香港中华厨艺学院中式

海参及花胶等海鲜干货。

卷起有如小型钱袋，用

餐饮及营运课程经理刘

食材如何稀奇或珍贵还

韭葱一一绑起后放入冰

惠平先生出身客家家庭，

是其次，主要还是代表

箱静置数小时成形。客

自小在乡下长大，对于

「大发利市」的菜名吸引

人点单后只需清蒸一会，

父亲每年亲自烹调的特

人，象征来年大展鸿图。

淋上晶莹的蛋白汁即可

别料理记忆深刻，至今

清蒸鲶鱼则是一语道尽

上桌。 」

Let it snow In January 2008, winter arrived suddenly and caught everyone by surprise. Unusually heavy snowfall paralyzed China’s roads and rail system, just as millions of migrant workers were leaving for their New Year family reunions in northern China. In Yunfu City, Guangdong Province, Wong Mui Fong owned two marble stone factories, and most of her workers were from northern China, all of them eager to get home. In the face of dire weather forecasts, Ms. Wong arranged to send everyone immediately to Guangzhou railway station, hoping they could catch the last train before the lines were totally blocked. The workers managed to get on the train, but conditions worsened faster than expected, and several hours later they were still stuck at the station.

Joy Chen from the factory’s marketing department vividly recalls how heartsick those remaining at the factory felt: “When we heard about their situation, we urged them to come back to the factory. ‘This is also your home. Let’s celebrate together in the factory!’

“So on that very cold New Year’s Eve, there were over a hundred people working together family-style, chatting and laughing as we made thousands of dumplings – cabbage with meat, leek with meat, and celery with meat. Then we all ate together and had a lot of fun singing and dancing.

I still remember one of our staff saying, ‘Regardless of the snow, we all feel safe, warm, and happy.’”

onion. It includes a palm-size piece of pig’s liver, which absorbs all the other flavors. That was my favorite part, and my dad always gave it to me while other family members competed for the skin.

“Another simple countryside dish we ate together was a kind of white Chinese yam stir-fried with home-preserved meat.

My dad has been gone for a decade now, but these dishes are still my best New Year memories. For me it doesn’t mean rare ingredients like abalone or a big suckling pig.

I think of these simple homemade dishes cooked from the heart that give that beautiful feeling of family and love you cannot find in any restaurant.”

Belly from the heart

The name game

Pierre Lau, Programme Manager for Chinese Catering & Operations at Hong Kong’s Chinese Culinary Institute, is from a Hakka family and grew up in the countryside. He has fond memories of the special dish that his father cooked every year: “Stewed pork belly in preserved black bean sauce is a traditional Hakka dish, served in a clay pot, and most people in our home village made it at this season. At that time, people only killed a pig at New Year and it needed a long time to cook.

“This dish requires five layers of pork belly fat and meat, and it’s wonderfully fragrant with black bean, garlic, and spring

“Traditional Chinese people like to play around with words and symbols during the New Year celebration,” says Lam Wan Fai, the Hong Kong Jockey Club's Executive Chef, Race-Course Catering. “When we create a menu, we must first consider the Chinese ingredients that convey good luck and wealth. Then we start sourcing special rare and costly ones.”

Premium ingredients go into fat choy

the name sounds like the words for “business is extremely good,” expressing best wishes for a prosperous future. And simple steamed catfish, nin yu , expresses everything that needs to be said to fellow diners: Nin nin yau yu means “make a surplus year by year.”

And the lucky red color of a spotted garoupa makes it even more desirable on the table.

Chef Lam’s Braised Pork Trotters combine well with lettuce in preserved taro sauce. Even better, the dish expresses appropriate wishes for the season. Lettuce, sang choy , sounds like “riches continue coming,” and the Cantonese phrase for “easily get what you want” sounds like jau sau , the words for pork trotter. A favorite sweet delicacy of the season is pan-fried glutinous rice pudding. Its Chinese name, nian gao , sounds like the expression meaning “be promoted higher year by year.”

Something a little different

hou si , a dish of braised dried oyster with black sea moss and other dried seafood like abalone, oysters, sea cucumber, and fish maw. But no matter how exotic and expensive the ingredients, the major appeal is that

Chan Wai Ting, Executive Chef of Hong Kong’s recently opened Greater China Club, plans to introduce some innovative touches to this year’s celebration for more daring diners. “Some traditional ingredients will be transformed with new cooking and presentation methods,” he promises. “Mushrooms, abalone, lobster, and fish symbolize auspicious things, so they’ll all be included.

“I still have vivid recollections of my mother’s homemade crispy deep-fried taro balls, which are only found at this season.

But they’re so labor-intensive to make at home that these days we only find the massproduced ones, which are not the same.

“Over the years I have created many special dishes for New Year banquets, but I’m particularly proud of one with a name that sounds like ‘best wishes for a prosperous year ahead.’ The first step is to deep fry Japanese bean curd until the outside is crispy. When cooled, I use a spoon to hollow out the center and stuff it with a mixture of finely chopped conpoy, sea cucumber, shark fin, and imperial fish maw. Then I wrap it like a mini money bag and tie it up with chives.

It goes back into the fridge for a couple of hours to firm up, and when guests order it, it’s quickly steamed and finished with a glossy egg-white sauce.”

auspicious tastes

|

TK |

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Indulgence as reward During his distinguished career, Chef Chung Kin Leung has worked in some of Hong Kong’s finest Cantonese restaurants. For a decade, as head chef at Hong Kong’s Government House, he cooked for dignitaries, international business leaders, and heads of state. But he keeps his food as simple as possible in his new role as Executive Chef of exclusive new restaurant Lai Bun Fu. “We embrace our cultural roots and tend to stick with really traditional dishes,” he says.

“For our Chinese New Year banquet we will be serving Braised Dried Oysters and Black Sea Moss and Braised Abalone and Goose Web, which are among the best-known dishes because of their auspicious names. And since the weather during Chinese New Year is usually chilly, we also will offer hearty dishes like Braised Pork Knuckles and Sautéed Lamb with Bean Curd

Sheets. Preparation time is the most critical factor, because many iconic Chinese New Year dishes such as abalone, goose web, and pork knuckles require long braising and double boiling. For braised sea cucumber with pomelo peel, both ingredients need hours of preparation. The sea cucumber must be thoroughly cleaned and the pomelo peel must be simmered in chicken soup to soften it.

“My most vivid childhood memories of meals at this season are of seafood dishes.

These were rare treats because the ingredients are so expensive. My family only prepared them for festive seasons like Winter Solstice and Chinese New Year. But youngsters of this generation can eat whatever they want throughout the year. I am a traditionalist and regard indulgence in luxurious ingredients as my reward for a year of hard work.”

Skin care The American Club in Beijing is known for the quality of its Chinese food, particularly the specialties from Guangdong, Shandong, and Sichuan. The Club’s Deputy Executive

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Chef, Chinese Kitchen, Liao Zhi Cong, who comes from Shaoxing, likes to source local delicacies from farms in his home area and take them back to Beijing. These rare items, he says, would never be found in supermarkets.

His favorite at this season is bean curd skin, fu zhu , and it takes the best part of a day to procure it. “I go two hours by road to a remote farm in Ma An Gang area, at the foot of a mountain that is famous for its pure, sweet spring water. That explains why the locally grown soy beans are so good. The same water is used to make the soybean milk.

“The farmer soaks the beans overnight and the next morning grinds them with a traditional stone hand mill. The soybean milk is gently boiled and any solid particles are filtered out. Then the milk is heated until it starts to form a skin, which is carefully removed, one layer at a time. One pot of

soybean milk can produce ten layers, which must be carefully rolled and then packed like a cone. Because the milk is filtered, the skin has a very special taste and a fine texture.”

Chef Liao uses bean curd skin in a number of ways, including simmering it with broth to make a rich yellow soup. And for one of his signature dishes, he combines it with a whole fish that is pan-fried. Then the skin is added along with a little water and some oyster sauce, and the mixture is stewed until the flavors and textures mingle. “It’s delicious and healthy and also very auspicious – fu sounds like the word for ‘fortune.’”

Luck of the toss “The main difference between celebrations in Hong Kong and Singapore at this season is the yusheng,” says Edlan Chua, COO of Paradise Group Holdings. The company, which operates thirty-eight restaurants from its base in Singapore, recently opened its second in Hong Kong, Paradise Inn. “The Hong Kong version includes shredded melon and more seafood like abalone, prawns,

scallops, and jellyfish, whereas Singapore’s is mainly vegetables, topped with sliced fish or abalone.”

Yusheng , known by many names, including lo hei and sometimes “prosperity toss,” has obscure origins, but the tradition probably dates back centuries to when fishermen in eastern Guangdong ate raw fish and vegetables on the seventh day of the Chinese New Year.

Recent history is hazy, although a number of Chinese chefs in Malaysia and Singapore are credited with “reinventing” yusheng as a seasonal specialty in the 1920s.

It has been declared a heritage food by the Malaysian Department of National Heritage.

Until recently it was little known in Hong Kong, but these days many restaurants feature it in their festival banquet menus.

The explanation for its popularity is not only its striking appearance and delicious

combination of tastes. Its name, meaning “raw fish,” comes from its star ingredient, but it is pronounced like the words for “increased abundance.” Most of the other ingredients are simple but also bear propitious names.

Traditionally, as diners add components to their plates, they repeat formal good wishes to their tablemates. When everyone has been served, they all stand up and toss the shredded ingredients into the air with chopsticks, shouting auspicious expressions or continuously repeating “lo hei, lo hei!” And since the altitude reached by the food forecasts a diner’s fortunes in the year ahead, standing on chairs is not unheard of.

“Yusheng is a must-have at every reunion in Singapore,” says Chua, “because it symbolizes abundance, prosperity, and vigor.

I vividly recall my mum preparing food for family dinners during the Chinese New Year.

There was a never-ending spread of food on the dining table, from fish and chicken to soup to steamed Chinese sausages with mushrooms. The entire house was filled with people, laughter, and tantalizing kitchen aromas.”

传统新吃法

Tweaking tradition Jayson Tang, the dashing new Chef de Cuisine at The Mira, a contemporary Cantonese restaurant, tweaks a few time-honored recipes in his menus for New Year. “The rich gold color and high price tag earn abalone a place on any Chinese New Year menu. It epitomizes good fortune and wealth for the new year,” says Chef Jayson. His take is to serve it cold. He soaks the finest twenty-two-head Taiwan abalone overnight in bonito broth before mixing it with pomelo segments and orange juice.

For the all-important fish course that ensures prosperity in the year ahead, he favors sole. First, he debones the fish and deep-fries it until crispy. Next, he stir-fries the fried fish with oyster sauce. Finally, he heats oil in a wok to 270°C, adds the fish bones, and fries them until golden as a garnish for the finished dish.

“A few years ago I prepared a seasonal banquet for a large VIP gathering where the organizer requested something surprising,” says Tang. “One of the highlights was a modern twist on the ever-popular braised pig’s knuckle. Fish sauce instead of the conventional soy sauce enhanced the flavor and aroma and added a rich, savory finish.”

“This year’s seasonal menu includes steamed daikon stuffed with fungus. It’s a very humble and inexpensive ingredient, but it dispels heat and helps digestion, a perfect balance for typically overly rich and oily Chinese New Year fare.”

“Deep-fried kok chai is a traditional Chinese New Year treat. They are crisp little dumplings filled with peanuts – some people call them peanut puffs. Their color and shape make the puffs look like gold bullion, symbolizing wealth and power.”

经典传统年菜到了 The Mira Hong Kong 现代粤菜餐厅 「国金轩」时髦的行政总厨邓家濠手中，多了不少有趣 的转折。他说明 ： 「丰富的金黄色泽及令人咋舌的高价 让鲍鱼于各式年菜料理中占有一席之地，代表开年福气 满满及财源滚滚。 」总厨让鲍鱼以冷盘形式上桌，精选 最顶级的台湾 22 头鲍，以柴鱼高汤熬煮一夜后，再混 搭柚子碎及橙汁上桌。 代表新年兴隆的全鱼料理重要性不言可喻，总厨 的选择是比目鱼，去骨后炸至酥脆，接着用蚝油炒鱼肉。 鱼骨也一同加入油炸直到金黄， 最后油锅加热至 270°C， 就是整道料理最好的点缀。 总厨回忆几年前曾为一个大型的 VIP 聚会准备年 菜： 「主办人指名要有让人惊喜的菜色。当晚的亮点之 一便是摩登版的人气料理红烧猪手，我用鱼露取代常 见的酱油，味道及风味更上一层楼，层次愈加丰富、 味道更是可口。 」 「今年菜单包括清蒸大根镶菌菇，食材本身平凡无 奇、价格也不高，但却有祛热、帮助消化之效，对于 重油重咸、大鱼大肉的年节料理是个很好的平衡。 」 「酥炸角仔为农历新年餐桌的常客， 小巧饺状点心， 内馅为花生，所以也称为花生饺。角仔的颜色及形状 让人想起金元宝，象征财富及权力。 」

捞起好运

自我犒赏不为过 名厨钟建良厨师生涯中

莫属，食材非常珍贵，平

小时，当地以纯净甘甜的

新加坡乐天餐饮集团旗

鱼生大受欢迎不仅

曾于多家香港顶级粤菜

常 真 的 很 难 吃 得 到， 在

泉水闻名，所种植出来的

下 拥 有 38 家 餐 厅， 近 来

因为引人注目的外观及好

餐厅历练。他于香港礼宾

我家大概只有冬至或农

黄豆品质也是一等一的

触角延伸至香港，开设了

味道，由主食材生鱼而来

府 掌 杓 十 年， 负 责 达 官

历新年等重要节日才会

好，制作豆浆用的也是同

第二间餐厅「乐天客栈」 。

的菜名「鱼生」带着「年

显 要、 国 际 企 业 领 导 人

出 现 在 餐 桌 上。 新 一 代

样的干净水质。 」

首席营运官蔡俊勇说起香

年有余」的谐音更是讨人

及国家首长的宴席餐点，

的年轻人则没有这问题，

「农夫将黄豆浸水一

港及新加坡两地年菜的不

喜 爱， 其 他 食 材 虽 然 简

现转为全新高级餐厅「礼

想吃什么一年到头都有，

整夜，隔天用传统石磨手

同表示，从鱼生就能看出

单，但一个个也带有吉祥

宾傅」行政总厨，菜色以

但我观念还是偏传统的

动 磨 豆， 豆 浆 用 文 火 慢

不少差异性 ： 「香港版有

意涵。

简 单 为 最 高 原 则。 他 表

老一辈，享用豪华食材这

煮， 滤 掉 任 何 硬 皮 或 渣

碎甜瓜及鲍鱼、鲜虾、扇

依 照 传 统 吃 法， 用

示： 「我们吸收文化根源，

种奢侈的事不用多，作为

滓。豆浆加热至最上方形

贝及水母等大量海鲜，新

餐时餐客添菜到自己餐盘

端出原汁原味的传统佳

整年辛勤工作的犒赏我

成 一 层 薄 膜， 再 小 心 移

加坡则以蔬菜为主，上方

之际都要向同桌亲友恭贺

肴。 」

就心满意足了。 」

开，一次一层，完全急不

再缀以鱼肉或鲍鱼切丝。 」

「新年围炉套餐包括 炖煮干生蚝及发菜、炖鲍 鱼及鹅掌等有吉祥话谐

得。

腐竹妙滋味

新 年，重 复 送 上 祝 福 语。

鱼生有各种版本的

大伙儿拿到菜之后全体起

一大锅豆浆可制出

菜名，也称捞起或有时吉

身，用筷子捞起各式切碎

十张膜，取下后小心翼翼

祥 一 点 的 直 接 称 为「 越

食材，同时大喊吉祥话或

音的人气菜色。考虑到过

北京「美洲俱乐部」的中

卷起，包成圆锥状。豆浆

捞越旺」 ，来源众说纷纭，

复述「捞起」二字。捞的

年时节天气寒冷，也有红

国 菜 品 质 之 高， 名 闻 遐

在制作过程中经过悉心

但最早应可追溯到几百年

越高代表新的一年赚得越

烧猪手及香煎羔羊伴豆

迩，广东菜、山东菜及四

过滤，连着上方的腐竹因

前的广东东部，当时渔民

多，不惜站上椅子捞的也

干丝等补气暖心的料理。

川菜尤为一绝。中菜行政

而带有非常特殊的味道

习惯在大年初七食用生鱼

时有所闻。

准备时间为年菜处理过

副总厨廖志聪出身绍兴，

以及细致口感。 」

及蔬菜。

程中的一大关键，许多代

对于自家地区农地所产

廖师傅运用腐竹自

表性菜肴像鲍鱼、鹅掌及

作物情有独钟。根据他的

猪手等需要长时间炖煮

说 法， 这 些 作 物 在 超 市

及隔水加热等步骤。 另外像炖海参佐柚

蔡俊勇表示 ： 「在新

近年演变的历史依

加坡过年，家家户户一定

如，有多种烹调方法，像

旧莫衷一是，后来据说是

都有鱼生，象征富足、繁

加高汤细火慢炖煮出味

1920 年 代 于 马 来 西 亚 及

盛及活力。

绝对找不着，相当罕见，

道丰厚的黄色浓汤，而作

新加坡重新研发，由当地

至今我还能回想起

难怪每次回北京他总是

为香煎全鱼的配料也恰

中菜师傅再度奠定鱼生作

母亲过年期间准备年夜饭

大包小包的回来。

如其份，是他的招牌菜之

为年节佳肴的特殊地位，

的情景，餐桌上摆满各式

上好几个小时，海参一定

豆皮－腐竹为他的

一， 腐 竹 加 点 水 及 些 许

马来西亚国家遗产部甚至

佳肴，有鱼有鸡有汤，还

要彻底洗净，柚子皮则需

年节料理首选食材，光采

蚝油，一起熬煮至所有食

宣布鱼生为其食物遗产。

有蒸香菇腊肠。

浸入鸡汤中细火慢熬直

购就要花上一整天，但也

材味道及口感完全融合。

鱼生过往在香港默默无

至软嫩。 」

正是精彩之处。 「我会到

「好吃、健康又带有吉兆，

闻，但近年许多餐厅趋之

笑声不断，厨房不时传来

「有关年菜我最深刻

马鞍岗附近山脚下的一

腐这个字又有福的谐音，

若鹜，纷纷放在年节料理

诱人香味，实在叫人回味

的童年回忆非海鲜料理

处偏远农地，路程需时两

再好不过了。 」

中揽客。

无穷。 」

子皮光是备料也往往花

家中挤满亲朋好友，

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美馔贺正

Auspicious Tastes

BY ANDREA LO

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Chinese New Year is all about fresh beginnings and looking ahead to a prosperous year, but it is especially a season for spending time with family. Throughout the festivities, dinner menus abound with traditional foods, each with its own auspicious connotation. From sea moss symbolizing good fortune to abalone promising vitality, every ingredient is thoughtfully chosen to ensure that the whole family starts off the new year right. 中国农历新年前，人人都要除旧布新，迎接繁盛的一年到来。新年也 是和家人欢聚的时节，各式节庆活动中，团圆晚饭绝对是一大亮点， 各式传统菜肴应有尽有，各有不同的吉祥意味，从象征发财的发菜到 可以带来活力生气的鲍鱼，以精心挑选的各种食材，让全家人开年顺 遂，迎来好年。 Gaining Fortune and Good Markets 发财好市 Braised dried oysters with sea moss, created by Executive Chef Ip Chi Cheung, Summer Palace at Island Shangri-la, Hong Kong 港岛香格里拉大酒店夏宫行政总厨叶志祥所创作的年菜－发菜蚝豉

AUSPICIOUS TASTES | TK |

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欣图轩

YAN TOH HEEN INTERCONTINENTAL HONG KONG 香港洲际酒店

Monkey Adds Gold and Silver Wok-fried wagyu beef, black mushrooms with bamboo shoots, and crispy lion’s mane mushrooms Lion’s mane mushroom, known as “monkey head mushroom” in Cantonese, is used this season because 2016 is the Year of the Monkey. Bamboo shoots, which are especially fresh, crunchy, and healthful when harvested during January and February, appear frequently in Chinese New Year meals. Yan Toh Heen is famous for its wagyu beef, but that’s not the only reason it’s included on the holiday menu. Chef Lau points out that the fatty marbling in wagyu beef brings to mind a Cantonese expression, “the house is fat and the home is round,” that looks forward to a rich and prosperous home. 灵猴添金银 双冬和牛伴脆香猴头菇

2016 年猴年到，刘耀辉主厨也应景选用「猴头菇」，搭 配使用的竹笋采收于一月至二月时节，特别新鲜、 爽脆，营养成分也高，是农历新年菜肴中常见 的食材。和牛为欣图轩一大招牌，但纳入新 年菜色之中还另有其他原因。 刘主厨指 出， 和牛的油花让人联想到「家肥屋润」 这个广东词，希望一家财源滚滚， 大发利市。

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Lo Hei Shredded abalone, fish maw, sea cucumber, pork belly, roasted duck, mixed bell peppers, honeydew, cantaloupe, spring onion, turnip, carrot, chopped walnuts, and pine nuts, mixed with homemade XO chili and sesame yuzu dressing “Lo hei” is similar to Cantonese slang for “upward mobility.” The dish is also known as yusheng, the “yu” a homophone of the word for “abundance.” Unlike some restaurants, Yan Toh Heen uses no raw ingredients. “Some Chinese believe that raw foods are not necessarily good for you,” says Chef Lau. Included are premium delicacies considered especially healthful, sea cucumber from Guangdong and fish maw from Pakistan. The salad is tossed with chopsticks by diners at the table — the higher it goes, the higher fortunes will climb in the coming year.

新春捞起 鲍鱼丝、花胶丝、辽参、烧腩、火鸭丝、青红椒、蜜瓜、根德瓜、 葱、萝卜、甘笋、合桃、嵩子伴 XO 酱香麻柚子豉油汁 「捞起」在广东话用语发音里带有奋起之意，这道菜别名鱼生，取 「鱼」同音，有「年年有余」的意思。欣图轩的作法和其他餐厅有 点不同，并不使用任何生冷食材，就像刘主厨所说 ： 「有些中国人 」主厨特制「捞起」使用的都是健康指数 相信生食对人体不好 。 满点的顶级珍馐，如来自广东的辽参及巴基斯坦直送的花胶丝。 开动时所有人用筷子把沙拉食材捞起，捞的越高代表新的一年赚 得越多，财源广进。

Bamboo Thriving and Giving Peace Braised tofu sheet rolls with prawns and gluten, steamed stuffed bamboo piths with mushrooms and bird’s nest The name of this dish is a common Chinese New Year greeting heard amid the joyful atmosphere of family celebrations. Wildgrown bamboo piths from Szechuan, “fresh and crispy,” are specially sourced by Chef Lau for this specialty. The prawns are wrapped in braised tofu sheets and the rolls are fried and then stewed. “The braising gives the dish interesting levels of flavor and texture,” says the chef. Prawns, representing happiness and energy, are a regular feature of Chinese New Year dishes. Prized bird’s nest is placed on top – its delicacy is believed to be beneficial to the complexion.

竹报平安 燕液竹声伴凤尾虾 这个菜名发想自新年阖家、团聚喜庆常用的拜 年用语。刘主厨特地自四川进口了新鲜又爽脆 的野生竹笙，明虾用腐皮裹起，整卷油炸后再 细火慢炖，刘主厨解释 ： 「煨过之后可以带出味 道及口感的层次，相当引人入胜。选用团圆饭 餐桌上常见的明虾，主要取其幸福及活力之意， 置于最上方的燕窝品质曾获奖肯定，丝丝入扣 的细致口感据信对人的气色大有助益。 」

“Our Cantonese cuisine is privileged – there are such plentiful fresh ingredients available locally. When you use the best produce, even with very basic techniques like steaming or boiling, the delicate flavors of the food come through without the need for heavy seasoning.” 「餐厅供应一流的顶级广东菜，由许多在地新鲜食材入菜。 即便是蒸煮等最平凡无奇的煮法，只要食材够好， 调味不用下重手，也能吃得到食物美妙的细致滋味。」 LAU YIU FAI, EXECUTIVE CHEF, YAN TOH HEEN

刘耀辉，行政主厨，欣图轩

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夏宫

SUMMER PALACE ISLAND SHANGRI-LA , HONG KONG

香港港岛香格里拉大酒店

Fish Hops over a Dragon Door Braised abalone and sea moss with shrimp mousse stuffed in squash melon The name of this dish derives from an ancient Chinese legend. The story goes that in the spring schools of carp swam upstream in the Yellow River to a town known as Dragon Door, where it was believed the fish eventually turned into dragons. Nowadays the expression is used to wish others success and good fortune, and chef Ip adopted it as the name of his New Year brainchild: “There was a popular dish served with scallops in the middle of squash melon,” he explains. “I thought of putting shrimp mousse in the middle instead to give it a cleaner and fresher taste. The squash melon is cut to an exact thickness and then simmered to remove the oil and eliminate the unsavory taste that’s present in every raw vegetable.

When soft, the squash melon is filled with the shrimp mousse.” Finally, the braised abalone is place on top and oyster sauce is drizzled over it. 鱼跃龙门 发财百花玉环汤鲍 这道佳肴菜名其来有自，源于中国古代的传说，春季时分， 成群鲤鱼于黄河逆流而上，希望抵达名为龙门的小镇，跳 过龙门便能一跃成龙。演变至今，鱼跃龙门常用来祝福他 人成功及好运，叶志祥主厨也以此作为新年特制料理的菜 名，他说 ： 「过去这道菜常以栉瓜装盛瑶柱，很受欢迎， 我是以虾仁慕斯置中，味道更为干净清爽。栉瓜切片后厚 度一致，丝毫不差，后细火慢炖去油，剔除生冷蔬菜不顺 口的味道，煮至软嫩就可填入虾仁慕斯。 」最后，放上炖 鲍鱼，淋上蚝油便大功告成。

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“When it comes to food, you have to put your whole heart into it. If you don’t, you simply won’t get the results.” 「做菜一定要全心全力投入， 否则结果尽不如人意。」 IP CHI CHEUNG EXECUTIVE CHINESE CHEF SUMMER PALACE 叶志祥，中菜行政总厨，夏宫

A House Full of Gold and Silver Stir-fried minced air-dried meat with lettuce Lap cheung , the Cantonese name for southern-flavored hard Chinese sausage, is the cured, air-dried meat in this dish. Usually made from pork, it can be fatty or lean and may or may not contain liver. It is finely diced for this dish. The winter bamboo shoots, harvested in Taiwan in November and December, are small and tender. They are also minced, then air-dried to eliminate their sour taste and fried. In a separate pan, some chopped garlic and onions, as well as the air-dried meat, are fried, and the bamboo shoots are stirred in last. Oyster sauce and sugar are added, and the mixture is fried for two minutes longer. Finally, a little water, chicken stock, and Shaoxing wine, the well-known traditional Chinese wine fermented from rice, are sprinkled over all. The dish requires a total cooking time of just four to five minutes.

金银满屋 腊味生菜崧 广东人称南方口味的干硬中式香肠为「腊肠」 ，也正是这道菜里使用的腌制和风干肉类食材。腊 肠常用猪肉制成，可瘦可肥，有些还会灌入猪肝。这道菜先把腊肠切丁，另一食材冬笋则来自 台湾，11 月及 12 月采收时体型较小，但相当软嫩。切碎后风干去除酸味，再过热油备用。另一 大锅则放入蒜片、洋葱片及腊肠快炒，最后再放入冬笋拌炒，倒入蚝油及糖等调味料后干烧两 分钟，起锅前加点水、鸡汤，均匀洒些中菜常用的绍兴酒即可。 「金银满屋」只消四到五分钟即 可料理完成，迅速又美味。

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福临门

FOOK LAM MOON GALAXY MACAU 澳门银河

Every Year a Good Market Pan-fried sun-dried oysters with port wine “We normally offer this dish on our menu, but for Chinese New Year we came up with an auspicious name for it,” says Executive Chef Chan Yau Leung, who helmed Fook Lam Moon’s renowned flagship in Wan Chai, Hong Kong, before moving to its new venue at Galaxy Macau. The language-play of Chinese New Year dishes continues: ho see , the name for sun-dried oysters, is a homophone of “good market.” Chef Chan opted to use port wine instead of the more commonly used honey in this dish, resulting in a mix of savory and sweet flavor profiles that balance the briny taste of the sun-dried oysters. “I came up with this idea and then developed it – it took around twenty tries until we got there.” He sources the main ingredient himself from fishermen in Lau Fau Shan in Hong Kong’s New Territories.

“They fish for oysters only once or twice a year,” he says. “These differ from regular ones – they’re drier and not as big.” 年年好市 砵酒煎金蚝 福临门迁至澳门银河前，旗舰店多年来座落于湾仔，厨房的灵魂人物正是行政总厨陈佑良， 谈到这道菜他表示 ： 「这道菜平常菜单上都点得到，只不过每逢农历新年都会特别安上个 吉祥菜名。 」新年菜肴总喜欢来个带有吉祥味的谐音： 风干生蚝广东话叫「蚝豉」 ，正是「好 市」的同音字。陈主厨选用砵酒，取代一般常用的蜂蜜，带出咸甜交融的美味口感，与生 蚝的鲜咸味搭配的恰到好处。「这想法萌生后便开始着手实验，试了大概二十次终于成功 了。 」主要食材生蚝由陈主厨亲身至香港新界流浮山向渔民购买，他强调 ： 「每年他们补生 蚝仅有一两次，这品种也和一般的不太一样，质感稍干，个头也没那么大。 」

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“I want our guests to experience real pleasure from our food and to leave with lasting memories. When people remember something, they want to return and recapture the feeling.” 「我们希望客人在福临门能有最 愉悦的用餐体验，久久难以忘 怀。对某件事念念不忘时，就会 想要回访，找回那个感动。」 CHAN YAU LEUNG, EXECUTIVE CHEF, FOOK LAM MOON, MACAU 陈佑良，行政总厨，澳门福临门

Good Fortune Is at Hand Braised pork knuckle with black moss in brown sauce The “hand” in this dish refers to pork knuckle, braised in a four-hour process that instills rich layers of flavor along the way. “The pork knuckle is boiled in soup until it is 70 percent cooked,” says Chef Chan. At that point it is removed from the pan, covered in dark soy sauce, and fried. This step gives it depth of color and ensures that the skin of the pork knuckle develops texture and that the meat will be prepared to absorb flavors later on. The knuckle is bathed in abalone sauce, oyster sauce, and soup, and the sauces from the pork are used to simmer the sea moss, which is served as accompaniment. This dish’s long preparation process means it must be preordered.

发财就手 发菜红烧元蹄 这道菜的「手」指的就是经四个小时熬煮的猪蹄，熬出丰富的层次感。陈主厨说明： 「猪 蹄放进高汤煮到约七成熟起锅」 ，淋上黑酱油后入油锅炸，此一步骤让蹄膀染上深色色 泽，猪皮口感扎实，猪肉也能吸收更多不同的味道。猪蹄后放入鲍鱼汁、蚝油及高汤 中红烧，原本猪蹄熬煮后的肉汁则用来慢煨发菜，再搭配一起上桌。「发菜红烧元蹄」 处理费工费时，不事先预定可吃不到。

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Dragon and Horse Bring Boundless Energy Sautéed fresh lobster with black bean and chili sauce The common Chinese New Year greeting “the dragon and horse bring boundless energy” wishes friends and loved ones vitality in the year ahead. The expression is reflected in this dish by the presence of lobster, known as “dragon prawn” in Cantonese. “It is important for the Chinese to feel energized for the coming year,” Chef Chan explains. “The dish is prepared by choosing two lobsters, removing the heads and shells, molding the meat into round shapes, and frying it with black bean sauce.”

龙马精神 豉椒龙虾球 「龙马精神」为农历新年常见的拜年用语，用来祝贺 亲朋好友新的一年活力满满。这句话的精神也在这道 菜表现的淋漓尽致，以「龙虾」为主要的食材。陈主 厨说明 ： 「中国人喜欢一开年就能精神百倍。我们选 用了两只龙虾，去头去壳后将龙虾肉塑成圆形，加入 豆豉酱一起炒就非常好吃。 」

Black Truffle Tagliatelle 黑松露宽条面

PRESENTED BY THE PARK LANE HONG KONG, A PULLMAN HOTEL

换新装 迎新高

even better The transformation of a Causeway Bay classic is giving Hong Kong a lot to celebrate in the new year ahead.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

THE PARK LANE HONG KONG, A PULLMAN HOTEL occupies a privileged piece of

real estate on the edge of Victoria Park in Causeway Bay. Open since 1974, the hotel has always been the classic choice of those looking for a haven of high-end serenity in the midst of a busy district. But now, design changes on a large scale and exciting culinary events are in the making, promising to advance The Park Lane’s appeal as a destination for contemporary travelers, diners, and drinkers.

“We want to create a new experience for hotel guests and also for our local clientele,” says Hugo Cheng, Director of Food & Beverage. His team has termed it a “rejuvenation,” the word purposefully chosen to express their goal of continuing to anticipate the desires of a young, sophisticated, international crowd.

To that end, the lobby lounge, Ebb & Flow, has already been transformed into an ultra-modern space that fluidly transitions from day to night, serving premium custom coffee, afternoon tea, and cocktails, all within an environment of contemporary art and design elements, such as the quirky new pod chairs from Italy.

Café One, the hotel’s perennially popular all-day dining space, will soon be reborn as PLAYT. “So many people who come to Causeway Bay are simply looking for good

香港柏宁铂尔曼酒店座落于铜锣湾维多利 亚公园边缘得天独厚的区位，自 1974 年开 幕以来，这里一直是喧嚣都市里人们渴望 寻觅高级静僻处的不二之选。如今设计完 全翻新，新兴餐饮空间如雨后春笋般出现， 柏宁酒店做为当代旅人、饕客、爱酒之人 的聚集地，吸引力势必要更上一层楼。 一如餐饮总监郑振权所说 ： 「我们想为 酒店宾客和在地客群创造全新体验。」他的 团队昵称翻新工程为「rejuvenation 焕然如 新计划」，如此精心挑选的用词，表达了他 们的目标便是将继续满足年轻、世故、国 际客群的心愿。 为此，酒店大堂休憩区的 Ebb & Flow 已转型成超现代空间，在采用意大利设计 精妙的崭新半球椅与其他当代艺术和设计 元素的环境里，反映日以继夜的流转，并 供应顶级客制化咖啡、下午茶和鸡尾酒。 柏宁酒店里日日高朋满座的 Café One 咖啡厅将重生转型成 PLAYT。郑振权表示： 「非常多来铜锣湾的人只是为了找寻美食。 Café One 向 来 很 受 欢 迎， 但 我 们 还 想 更 好。新装潢的概念源于工业风，你会见到 街头艺术，但会更时髦、更高档。」换言之， Café One 将从目前的暗色调与木质风摇身 一变，改走前卫都市工业风，搭配外露砖块、 不锈钢和光泽厨具设施。 郑振权亦说道 ： 「宾客会想亲眼见到餐 点幕后的准备过程，想近距离观察食材。 未来一切都将是现做，生蚝会在你眼前开 壳，还有生鱼片及各种开胃菜，以及有多 种口味选择的手工制意大利冰淇淋。有人

Hugo Cheng 郑振权

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Poached Farm Egg, Frog Leg, Grated Black Truffle 温泉蛋, 田鸡腿, 黑松露

food.” says Cheng. “Café One has always been a hit, but we want to do even better.

The new concept is based around industrial chic. You’ll see street art, it will be funkier, more high-style.” In a dramatic change from

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the current dark hues and woods, the space will take on an edgy urban industrial look, with exposed brick, stainless steel, and sleek kitchen equipment.

“People want to see the whole process

behind what they eat,” says Cheng. “They want to see the food up close. It will all be very fresh – you’ll see oysters being opened in front of you – sashimi and different appetizers, homemade gelato, where people choose their own flavors. Some people call them live cooking stations, but we think of it as kitchen theater.”

PLAYT will open in June, but in the meantime there are ample reasons for visiting Café One as well as Riva and The Deck, the spectacular fine dining restaurant in the sky. During January and February, both venues are featuring black truffles. At Café One, look for black truffle siu mai at the dim sum station, truffled risotto, steamed grouper with black truffle sauce, and Lobster Thermidor with black truffle.

At Riva and The Deck, a lavish tasting menu has been dedicated to the black jewels from Périgord. There’s risotto or tagliatelle topped with freshly shaved truffles; a 64-degree poached egg with serrano ham, shallot-encrusted frog legs, and truffled mashed potatoes with grated truffles; a mushroom velouté with truffled cheese brioche and julienned truffles; truffled poulet jaune with winter roots and black truffle sauce; seared Chilean sea bass with artichokes, watercress, and foie gras truffle sauce; and for dessert, a vanilla and honey truffle mousse with truffle crème anglaise.

Riva and The Deck is in for its own transmutation. The twenty-seventh floor will be reimagined by dwp, the superstar design firm known for creating some of Asia’s most stylish restaurants and bars, like Sirocco in Bangkok. “We fully expect to be the top cocktail bar in Hong Kong, uniting the best design and the best drinks,” says Cheng.

To do that, they’ve also enlisted Singaporebased Proof & Company, a firm dedicated to the finest in artisanal spirits.

Looking out over the sweep of Victoria Park and Victoria Harbor from The Deck’s dizzying height, Cheng remarks, “We already have Hong Kong’s most exciting views. Now we plan to become its most exciting destination.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2), COURTESY OF PARK LANE (INTERIOR)

PRESENTED BY THE PARK LANE HONG KONG, A PULLMAN HOTEL

Black Truffle Siu Mai 黑松露烧卖

称之为互动厨房，但我们认为比较像是开 放式厨房剧场。」 PLAYT 将于六月开幕，但在此之前， 食客仍有充分的理由造访 Café One 和位于 半高空、美景无限的 Riva 餐厅及露天平台。 一、二月两家餐厅都将以黑松露为主题， Café One 的点心部将供应黑松露烧卖、松 露炖饭、黑松露酱清蒸石斑及黑松露法式 焗龙虾。Riva 餐厅及露天平台则为珍稀的佩 里哥黑松露设计了一整套丰盛美味的菜单， 包括洒满新鲜松露刨片的炖饭或意式干面、 64 度水煮波蛋与西班牙塞拉诺火腿、红葱 覆缀的田鸡腿、松露粉马铃薯泥、蘑菇天鹅 绒酱汁佐松露干酪皮欧许面包和松鲁思、松 露黄鸡佐冬季根菜和黑松露酱、香煎智利海 鲈佐朝鲜蓟、西洋菜、鹅肝松露，甜点则是 香草蜂蜜松露慕斯配松露英式奶油酱。 Riva 餐厅及露天平台亦将脱胎换骨。 耀眼的新秀设计公司 dwp 因打造了亚洲最 风潮的餐厅和酒吧而名闻遐迩，例如曼谷 的 Sirocco 便出自其团队巧手，现在柏宁酒 店的 27 楼亦将在 dwp 的改造下灿然一新。 郑振权说 ： 「我们满心期待成为香港结合最

佳设计和饮品的顶级鸡尾酒吧。」而新加坡 专门供应精致烈酒的 Proof & Company 亦 将参与其中，保证美酒品质升华。 身处令人屏息的高空露天平台上，宾

客能把维多利亚公园和海港的景致尽收眼 底。郑振权表示 ： 「我们已拥有香港最棒的 视野，现在我们即将成为众人心目中最向 往的胜地。」

Destination Bar at The Park Lane Hong Kong, opening this September 香港柏宁铂尔曼酒店的酒吧即将于今年九月开幕

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早午餐之最

best of the brunch Spotlight raises the bar for Sunday brunch in Macau.

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RED DOG STUDIO (4)

PRESENTED BY STUDIO CITY MACAU

SOME MAY DEEM IT merely a mélange of breakfast and lunch, but for its enthusiasts, brunch is the weekend’s gastronomic high point. And surely the most exceptional buffet brunch in town is at Spotlight, one of Studio City’s new signature restaurants. “Every property in Macau has a buffet,” says Studio City Executive Chef Franck Damianovitch, “but we wanted to do something extra. We have a number of things you simply won’t find at other brunch buffets.”

Spotlight features a stellar international breakfast buffet every morning for hotel guests, but on Sundays from 11:30 to 3:00, true magic happens. “We only offer it on one day,” says Damianovitch, “because otherwise it would stop being special. We want it to be a really memorable treat, the highlight of your week.”

The truly overwhelming array of dishes at Spotlight’s Sunday brunch is certain to excite even the most blasé of brunchgoers.

“The original fusion cuisine is brunch,” says Damianovitch. “It’s not simply a

mash-up of breakfast and lunch, it’s breakfast and lunch from around the world.”

The top drawing card at Spotlight’s buffet is its extravagant seafood selection, varying seasonally. “Fresh oysters, delivered daily from France, Britain, Tasmania, and Japan, are opened live in front of the guests as they order them,” says Damianovitch. “We also feature fresh abalone, Boston lobster, mussels, clams, snow and Alaskan king crabs, tourteaux, and sea cigales, to name a few, always respecting the fishing seasons to ensure the best quality for our guests.”

Caviar lovers are lavished with a luxurious selection of black varieties from Iran and Italy served in a number of ways, including with the traditional accompaniments of shallots, chives, egg white, lemon, capers, and sour cream. “We’re the only ones in Macau serving tarama,” says Damianovitch. “It’s a Greek and Turkish meze made from salted and cured roe that can be spread on blini or bread to complement the caviar.”

「早午餐」对某些人而言不过是早点和午餐 的组合罢了，但对「早午餐」狂热份子来说， 那可是周末美味体验的至高点。说到「早 午餐」，新濠影汇最新美味据点「星汇餐厅」 号称全城首屈一指，当之无愧。新濠影汇 行政总厨 Franck Damianovitch 自豪表示 ： 「自助美食餐对食客吸引力十足，全澳门几 乎每间酒店都有，但我们要做到极致，便 要为宾客带来其他早午餐自助餐绝对找不 到的特色美食。」 「星汇餐厅」每天早上定期提供酒店房 客五星级早餐自助餐，汇集各国美味，但 唯有每周日上午十一时半到下午三点，才 有机会一探升级版的美食殿堂。总厨强调 ： 「仅限定周日时段，否则就不特别了。我们 希望让客人品尝之后难以忘怀，达到一周 以来入口美味的颠峰。」 「星汇餐厅」周日餐点选择之丰富，包 准对早午餐意兴阑珊的客人也会兴奋叫好。 Franck 形容自家早午餐不仅仅只是早餐及 午餐杂荟，更是「深具原创的融合式料理， 让客人品尝来自世界各地的早午美味。」 「星汇餐厅」的豪华海鲜一字排开，说 是餐厅王牌一点也不为过。总厨指出 ： 「我 们对海鲜下了许多功夫，新鲜生蚝随产地 auspicious tastes

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PRESENTED BY STUDIO CITY MACAU

Studio City Executive Chef Franck Damianovitch

Pan-Fried Foie Gras

新濠影汇行政主厨 Franck Damianovitch

铁板香煎鹅肝

The buffet, which features several carving stations for premium meats, spans the full culinary spectrum of the world – from fresh Indian tandoor and naan bread to Brazilian meat served from swords, from Italian and European classics to Southeast Asian and Latin American specialties. The Chinese selections are plentiful and wide-ranging: dim sum from the north and south, barbecued meats, classic noodles, a live wok station covering all of the regional cuisines, and a traditional Cantonese-style congee corner. Japan is represented by freshly prepared sushi and sashimi and a teppanyaki station serving pan-fried foie gras, prawns, and beef brisket.

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Cold cuts, soups, salads, freshly baked breads, and fresh fruit smoothies abound.

The dessert station is its own tantalizing world of fresh fruit, teppanyaki ice cream, Italian gelato, crepes, Spanish churros, and all manner of pastries.

At the far end of the buffet is a special temperature-controlled greenhouse filled with a selection of aromatic organic herbs grown by Damianovitch and his team, who make extensive use of them throughout their dishes. “The herbs not only give our food the maximum in flavor,” says Damianovitch, “they also allow guests to see and understand the way we grow and use them.”

Spotlight’s brunch has made a significant

splash on Macau’s dining scene since opening in late October. “We’re doing quite well,” says Damianovitch. “We’ve been very busy, but our main goal is not numbers, it’s ensuring the highest quality in all our food. We want the Sunday brunch to be popular, but not a massive affair with six hundred people storming the tables. We intend to uphold our standards and keep things rather exclusive.

“A big part of what makes it so remarkable,” he says, “is the opportunity we have to serve our guests the very best foods and flavors without ever compromising. It’s cuisine from around the world from a chef who has worked around the world. There is simply no other buffet brunch like it.”

The choices seem endless at Spotlight’s Sunday brunch

RED DOG STUDIO (3)

星汇餐厅周日早午餐供应琳琅满目

供量不同，每日自法国、英国、塔斯马尼 亚或日本直送，于桌边现点现开。也有新 鲜的鲍鱼、波士顿龙虾、青口、蛤蛎，雪蟹， 阿拉斯加帝王蟹 , 法国睡蟹等可供选择。」 对于鱼子酱爱好者而言，这里也让他 们宛若置身天堂，有来自伊朗及意大利多 种顶级黑鱼子酱搭配青葱、细香葱、蛋白、 柠檬、酸豆及酸奶油上桌，多种吃法一次 满足。在澳门，有供应 tarama 酱的餐厅， 一如总厨所说 ： 「只此一家。tamara 由腌渍 的咸味鱼卵制成，为希腊、土耳其地中海 一带特色沾酱，可涂于薄饼或面包，和鱼 子酱的味道相辅相成。」 自助吧也设有多个精选来自世界各地 的顶级肉类现切美食区，让餐客展开环球 美食之旅，包括新鲜印度坦都烧烤及薄饼、

巴西烤肉现点现切、意大利及欧洲经典料 理、东南亚或拉丁美洲风味菜等。中菜的 选择也非常丰富、种类繁多 ：南北方巧制 点心、烤肉及各式经典面类。现场也有热 炒站，各地方菜色无所不包 ；粤式厨房则 供应传统广东粥。日式料理则有现捏寿司 及刺身、铁板烧区则有香煎鹅肝、大虾及 牛腩供客人品尝。 冷盘、汤品、色拉、新鲜烘焙面包以 及各式现榨水果饮品一样不缺，甜点区则 自成一格，供应新鲜水果、铁板冰淇淋、 意式冰淇淋、可丽饼、西班牙吉拿棒及琳 琅满目的各式糕点。 自助吧一方角落有座特别的温室，温 度严格掌控，满是总厨和团队亲手栽种的 有机辛香草本植物，也于自家菜色中广泛

使用。Franck 说明 ： 「这些香料让食物味道 发挥到最完美，客人入口后也能理解我们 自栽植物入菜的用心。」 「星汇餐厅」早午餐系列自 10 月底开 幕以来于澳门美食圈可谓回响热烈，大受 触 目。Franck 表 示 ： 「 一 切 非 常 顺 利， 一 路忙个不停，但数字不是重点，能否呈现 最高质量的美食才是关键所在。我们当然 希望周日早午餐大受欢迎，但一下子涌入 600 人抢拿食物也非我们所乐见。希望维 持高水平，让用餐成为独有的体验。」 「能有如此佳绩，很大一部分是因为我 们有机会让客人品尝最好的食物及味道。 自助吧食物来自全球，由游历世界各地一 展身手的厨师掌舵，我们的早午餐自助餐 独一无二。」 auspicious tastes

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Gaetano Palumbo

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

崭新的记忆

new memories

RED DOG STUDIO (2)

The warmth and imagination of a talented chef make diners feel they’re coming back to a favorite place.

GAETANO PALUMBO, Executive Sous Chef Culinary, speaks with feeling of being part of the team that launched The St. Regis Macao, Cotai Central, the gleaming new destination for connoisseurs of cosmopolitan cuisine and fine wines. “Opening the hotel took a great deal of preparation and energy and ­emotion,” he says. The chef has spent the past months sourcing precisely the right ingredients for his menus, training his new team, and honing traditional and modern cooking procedures. “Every time I create a new dish, I find that the idea originates in simplicity. I start with a single ingredient, put it together with others, and see if it works.

It may take a very long time to refine, to achieve the perfect taste and presentation.”

The St. Regis Macao, which opened in December 2015, offers guests an array of elegant spaces for enjoying Palumbo’s meticulously assembled creations. “It’s a place with a lot of atmosphere,” he says. “Every room has its own design, which gives you the wonderful feeling of being in different places at the same time.”

The St. Regis Bar is ideal for an aperitif, cocktails after work, or a romantic tête-àtête. Zones within the space make the vibe mellow enough for intimate whispers or energized enough for extroverted mingling.

澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒店一跃成为让老饕 们为之着迷的美酒佳肴新地标，让幕后功 臣之一的行政副主厨 Gaetano Palumbo 亦 甚为自豪，他为我们细细分享酒店的打造 过程 ： 「盖好一家酒店需要有详尽的规划、 充沛的活力和源源不绝的情感。」这位厨师 在过去几个月里到处寻找适合放进菜单的 食材、训练他的新团队以熟悉传统和现代 的料理流程。「每次设计新菜，我发现我总 是从最简单的想法开始。从单一食材，与 其他精选配料逐一搭配，探索能不能擦出 不同的火花，在菜肴达致完美的口味之前， 我可能会花很长时间不断改进。」 2015 年 12 月刚开幕的澳门瑞吉金沙 城中心酒店，提供一系列优雅的空间享受 Palumbo 丰富细腻的巧思。他表示 ： 「这里 有多个雅致独特的用餐区域，形成不同的 氛围。每个空间都是特别设计的，让您感 觉如同穿梭在不同地方般有趣。」 不管是来杯餐前的开胃酒、下班后释 放压力的鸡尾酒，或是浪漫絮语时的催化 剂 ；瑞吉酒吧都不会让您失望。在这里它 既私密又充满活力，不论是浅谈细语或是 欢乐齐聚都非常适合。包罗万有的酒单中 有珍稀的典藏酒品，技术一流的调酒师为 您调制别出心裁的鸡尾酒。而血腥玛丽从 1934 年于纽约瑞吉酒店推出以后，便成为 了瑞吉酒店不可或缺的象徵。而东方玛丽 就是澳门瑞吉酒店对标志性的血腥玛丽的 完美诠释－以伏特加、西红柿汁、霹雳椒、

Red Fermented Bean Curd Roasted Chicken Pot, Grilled Chorizo, Parsnip Purée 红烧豆腐鸡煲配烤肠及牛蒡酱

auspicious tastes

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PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

RED DOG STUDIO (3)

The extensive wine list features some of the rarest vintages in the world, and stellar mixologists are on call to create cocktails from an intriguing list. The Bloody Mary has been part of St. Regis history since it was introduced at The St. Regis New York in 1934.

Maria do Leste, The St. Regis Macao’s reinterpretation of the classic, is made with vodka, tomato juice, piri piri, pink peppercorns, cinnamon, and paprika, served with a wickedly good lobster-egg tart on the side.

Guests with an appetite may indulge it in style at The Manor, the hotel’s aesthetically arranged collection of dining areas, artfully designed to satisfy varying parameters. The Dining Room, with its sophisticated décor and airy atmosphere, offers a fittingly finedining menu of Chef Palumbo’s highest achievements. The chic appointments of The Wine Gallery create a more intimate feel, well-suited to pairing food with fine wines. And The Verandah, with its exceptional fresh crustacean bar, provides the relaxing ambience of an indoor garden. Two elegant private rooms are available, The Penthouse Kitchen and The Library.

Whichever custom-tailored option diners may decide on, they can be certain the chef makes their enjoyment his highest goal. “It’s our duty to create an experience,” he says.

“We’re making memories.”

Seared Spanish Rib-Eye, Spiced Eggplant, Rose Harissa, Gherkin and Cumin Mayo 香煎西班牙肉眼扒伴鱼香茄子配玫瑰哈里萨辣酱，小茴香蛋黄酱及腌小黄瓜 ← Seared Hokkaido Sea Scallops, Spigaroli Lardo, Grilled Creamed Sweet Corn, Smoked Chili Butter 西班牙猪油香煎北海道带子及烟熏辣椒牛油烤甜玉米 ↙ Maria do Leste: The St. Regis Bar’s unique interpretation of a Bloody Mary 东方玛丽：瑞吉酒吧的特色血腥玛丽

粉红胡椒粒、肉桂和甜椒混合调制，搭配 在旁的龙虾葡挞，多重口感令人回味无穷。 诚邀每一位追求完美的美食家光临「雅 舍」；细意品尝一趟让味觉升华的体验。这 里是以极致美学打造、富有艺术感的用餐 空 间， 满 足 各 种 挑 剔 的 口 味。「 雅 舍 • 珍 膳廊」以它细致的装潢和清新的氛围衬托 Palumbo 新颖的菜式 ；充满时尚感的「雅 舍 • 名酒荟」能让您拥有私人时光，自在 地享受美酒佳酿 ；还有「雅舍 • 长廊」的 开放式海鲜吧，让您如置身于室内庭园般 不受拘束。若想单独包场，两间典雅的私 人包厢 –「雅舍 • 顶厨」和「雅舍 • 闲逸廊」 均可供选择。 不论是任何量身定制的要求，主厨都 以精湛的厨艺技术尽全力办到。他说 ： 「创 造难忘的用餐经验是我们的使命，我们乐 于为宾客制造美好回忆。」 auspicious tastes

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WINE MASTER

美酒当歌

fine wine

DAVID HARTUNG

Swire Hotels’ Director of Wine, winner of the 2014 Ruinart Sommeliers Challenge in Hong Kong, reconsiders the meaning of “fine wine.”

YVONNE CHEUNG has just returned from an exhilarating tour through Australian wine country, and she is stoked. Like the surprising zerodosage sparkling wine she treasures as one of her favorites from the trip, she is bubbling with energy and excitement, inspired by the creativity and sheer intrepidness she encountered among New World winemakers.

“Sometimes wines, especially the incredible ones that everyone knows by name and price, can reach a point where they’re regarded more as art and fashion than as wines to be savored and appreciated,” Cheung remarks. “On this trip I met the families behind iconic labels with global recognition as well as the super-small producers who may never be distributed around the world. They are all pushing forward in their work with absolute passion and dedication and with sincere stewardship of their land. It was a moving reminder that there are great stories behind these great wines.”

Cheung is formulating plans to share the experience with her guests, potentially dedicating a portion of her wine program to the newly discovered labels or showcasing them with a tasting menu. “As wine directors and sommeliers, we are responsible for representing significant wine regions from around the world. People in Hong Kong know what they like, but we can introduce something new that can enrich an experience for our guests, one relationship and one bottle at a time.”

Fundamental to this is a flexible understanding of what constitutes “fine wine.” Cheung concedes, for example, that a great Nebbiolo-based Barolo will likely only ever come out of Piedmont, but she doesn’t believe it precludes a great Australian or Californian Nebbiolo. Similarly, she discourages judging wines by a single element like zero dosage. “I always tell people to forget what everyone else says. Wine is a multi-dimensional food whose deliciousness and drinkability stem from far more than just one element such as alcohol, dosage, or tannin. There are different reasons to drink different wines, but at the end of the day it’s about what you like and what you would share with your friends or guests.”

张乐天甫自愉快的澳洲酒乡之旅返港，整个 人显得神采奕奕。正如这趟旅程中让她爱不 释手的无糖起泡酒一样，她浑身散发活力， 新世界大胆创意的酿酒厂让她深受启发。 她表示 ： 「有时候，特别是那些品牌及价 格大家都耳熟能详的酒常被视为艺术及流行 时尚，人们已不单纯当它们是酒来品尝及鉴 赏了。这次旅行我遇见了全球知名大品牌的 酿酒家族，也与一些名不见经传、从未跨出 澳洲的小型酒厂主人相见甚欢，他们的共同 点在于都抱着极大的热诚，全心投入到酿酒 中，不断求取突破，同时具有发自内心的责 任感、管理所处的土地。这些都提醒着我们 许多经典佳酿背后都蕴含不少动人的故事。 」 张乐天也计划将此美好体验与客人分 享，将新发现的品牌纳入她的葡萄酒课程或 餐酒菜单。她说明： 「身为餐酒总监及侍酒师， 我们有责任让客人体验来自世界各大酒乡的 佳酿。香港人深知自己所好，但仍可介绍新 的葡萄酒，让客人的品酒经验更加丰富，一 次增加一段新的美酒关系及一瓶新酒。 」 要开展新的美酒旅程，最根本的还是要 对「好酒」的构成有一个灵活弹性的认知。 不 过 她 也 坦 承， 确 实 可 能 仅 有 来 自 意 大 利

Piedmont 的 Nebbiolo 葡萄酿制的 Barolo 红 酒最好，但那并不减损澳洲或加州质量优良

Nebbiolo 的价值。同时，她也不乐见以单一 因素，如无糖作为条件来评断酒的好坏。 「我 常提醒大家，将其他人的说法抛诸脑后，酒 是一种多元的食物，其美味及酒劲不仅是来 自于单一的元素，如酒精，剂量或单宁。大 家享用不同葡萄酒的原因各异。毕竟，重点 是要自己喜欢以及想和朋友分享什么酒。 」 auspicious tastes

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WINE PAIRINGS

中国酒庄

middle kingdom vineyards TK correspondent Eddie McDougall, aka The Flying Winemaker, confers with Stéphane Soret, Executive Director of Beverage at MGM Macau, on the rise of Chinese wines.

STÉPHANE AND I crossed paths a few years ago at the wine-judging table of an international competition, where we were able to discuss and share our thoughts on the Chinese wine scene. We discovered an important mutual belief: China-produced wines will reshape the choices made by wine aficionados in Asia. The incredible viticulture improvements and the acquisition of international winemaking pedigree have given brands from regions like Ningxia and Shandong the opportunity to shine and also to showcase their recent showering of medals and trophies.

Just as Asian diners are beginning to crave and support locally farmed produce, it’s our opinion that it’s only a matter of time before everyday consumers open more and more bottles produced on our own doorstep.

As proof that this movement is in play, the culinary experts at MGM’s Imperial Court have designed a pair of auspicious Chinese New Year dishes to accompany Stéphane’s recent discoveries. 数年前，我与 Stéphane 相识于一场国际葡萄酒竞赛的评审席上，因而有机会互相畅谈对中国 葡萄酒前景的看法。我们发现彼此怀着一个重要的共同信念，就是中国生产的葡萄酒将会颠 覆亚洲酒迷的选择。中国葡萄栽培发展的速度突飞猛进，并且正在向国际酿酒师取经，不仅 赋予宁夏和山东等地区的葡萄酒品牌发光发热的机会，亦能展现这些酒款近期获奖无数的佳 绩。一如亚洲饕客开始支持在地农业，渴求在地生产的作物，我们认为迟早有一天，在地酿 制的酒亦将开始获得葡萄酒消费大户的青睐。 澳门美高梅金殿堂名厨设计了两道蕴含中国新年吉祥意味的佳肴，搭配 Stéphane 最近 新发现的酒款，恰好是这股酝酿中趋势的最好证明。

2013 CHÂTEAU NINE PEAKS

SHANDONG CHARDONNAY CHINA 2013 九顶庄园 | 中国山东霞多丽 Restrained and focused on a savory elegance. Fruit definition is secondary, which is surprising yet pleasing to the palate, giving it a Burgundian nuance. Oak is wellintegrated and provides a lush textural spread across the plate. 90 points

2012 LEGACY PEAK ESTATE

NINGXIA HELAN MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON CHINA 2012 留世酒庄 | 中国宁夏贺兰山赤霞珠

Dish: Sautéed lobster with morel mushroom and asparagus accompanied braised spinach egg noodles with chicken stock.

Beautiful violets, crushed plums, and refined tannins. The powdery finish gives it exceptional class and an elegance that has held in play the honest fruit expressions. The balance of oak flavor is cleverly controlled. 94 points

Pairing note: Savory components of the wine interlock well with the pungent flavors of the mushroom and lobster. The plush wine textures weave wonderfully well with the noodles and the warmth of the homemade stock.

Dish: Hook roasted goose with preserved vegetables Pairing notes: The succulent flavors of the goose are elevated by the wine’s distinctive notes of spiced plums. Earthy flavors of the pickled vegetables and the goose’s texture are well-supported and balanced by the sophisticated oak in the wine.

风格内敛，突显饱满优雅。次要的果味令人 惊喜又讨好味蕾，透露出勃艮第极细微的差 异。橡木香融入地恰到好处，在味蕾上散发 出浓郁口感。 90 分

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

菜式 ：摩利菌露笋泡龙虾球伴黄炆菠菜面 浓郁的紫罗兰色、成熟李香、精致单宁， 粉感余韵赋予它出色与优雅，彼此制衡又 能传递出葡萄最真实的风味。平衡的橡木 香更是拿捏得宜。 94 分 菜式 ：梅菜皇烧鹅

搭配小语 ：鹅肉的鲜嫩多汁经由葡萄酒独 特的丁香味提升，而酒里的橡木香又为风 味踏实的梅菜和烧鹅肉质提供了良好的搭 配与平衡。

搭配小语 ：葡萄酒的可口与菌菇和龙虾的辛 味重叠，此款酒顺畅的质感与面条和温暖的 自制高汤完美交织。

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Paul Zhang 张子瑜

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COCKTAILS

调酒实验室

experimental mixology

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Paul Zhang makes one of Macau’s luxury bars his cocktail laboratory.

China Rose

IF HIS YOUTHFULNESS SUGGESTS that he’s barely old enough to gain admission to a bar, let alone be working in one, in fact, Paul Zhang feels very much at home as Chief Mixologist amidst the plush surroundings of The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge in Macau.

Dapper in a neat white coat, he moves with purpose between stations at the bar, the concoctions lined up before him sometimes looking as much like science projects as they do the artful creations of a virtuoso mixologist. Arguably, they’re both, given the analysis and research behind Zhang’s breakthrough approach to cocktails. With the marble bar as lab bench and dramatic views over Cotai as backdrop, he continues to demonstrate the reason why he’s become known as a master of invention in the few short years since his career began.

Originally from Tianjin in northeastern China, Paul realized he wanted to become a mixologist after watching a cocktail competition in Beijing. He has gained particular renown for incorporating traditional Chinese flavors and colors into his creations, for example, infusing vodka with ginger and Sichuan chili pepper. Often he employs visual elements, sounds, or unexpected ingredients to tell a story, as, for instance, in his bamboo cocktail accompanied by classic Chinese music.

He also likes to highlight the seasonality of fruits and flowers. A case in point is his China Rose, a drink with a provenance close to home. “The pink rose is the city flower of my birthplace,” he says. “The drink has the same beautiful color and a delicate taste.” He combines lychee liqueur with rose syrup, fresh raspberry purée, and lemon juice, and then adds a unique roseinfused spirit. The cocktail is topped off with Champagne, strewn with dried rose petals, auspicious tastes

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COCKTAILS

Dragon Dance

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DAVID HARTUNG

and sprayed with house-made rose water to lend an ephemeral perfume. A nuanced play on all the senses, it is predictably popular with feminine clientele.

Zhang likes to talk to his guests, explaining the drinks and the culture behind them.

“I read a lot of books to learn about classics like martinis and how they’ve evolved. After Prohibition, there was a new style, a dry martini with dry vermouth. Before, it was Old Tom Gin with sweet vermouth on the rocks.

I try to take these classics and express my personal opinions.”

Through his knowledge of traditional British and American cocktails and a penchant for the precision of Japanese mixology, Zhang has developed a repertoire of distinctive drinks that have won him an impressive series of awards at home and abroad. First place in the north China regional of the Absolut Invite 2014 took him to Stockholm for the final, and following his success in a Havana Club rum competition, he traveled to the Cuban capital.

In another of his innovative creations, Dragon Dance, the key ingredient is an old Chinese favorite, dried hawthorn berries.

“It was inspired by all the people coming here and eating hawthorns after dinner for their stomachs. They’re good for the digestion, so it makes a perfect after-dinner drink.

I’d tried hawthorn infused in vodka, but it wasn’t quite right, so I played around and found bourbon was best.”

The infused bourbon is blended with fresh lemon juice, Pimms, and raspberry syrup. Using a straw to place a drop on the back of his hand, Zhang tastes it before hard shaking it over ice cubes and straining it into a Chinese blue-and-white porcelain cup that cleverly makes it look like a dose of medicinal herb tea. Haw flakes, the popular Chinese disc-shaped candies flavored with the fruit, serve as an accompaniment that – like all of Zhang’s touches – is aptly original.

“ After Prohibition, there was a new style, a dry martini with dry vermouth.

Before, it was Old Tom Gin with sweet vermouth on the rocks. 禁酒令解除后，兴起了一股新风格 – 干马丁尼配干苦艾酒，在此 之前是老汤姆琴酒配甜苦艾酒加冰。“ 与生俱来的一张年轻面孔，让人以为他 不到踏足酒吧的年纪，更甭说在里面工 作了。事实上，张子瑜可是澳门丽思酒 廊的首席调酒师，工作在高贵壮丽的酒 吧中游刃有余。 只见他身着笔挺整洁的白色西装，有 目的地穿梭在酒吧台间。陈列在他面前的 调酒有时看似科学实验，又像出自这位 专业调酒大师之手的精巧艺术作品。显 然在张子瑜突破性的分析与实验手法下， 其创作的鸡尾酒两者皆是。以大理石酒 吧为实验台，以绝美路氹城景致为背景， 他不断展现出入行短短数年便被誉为调 酒发明大师的原因。 出身中国东北城市 – 天津的张子瑜， 有次在北京观赏了一场鸡尾酒竞赛，因而 决心成为一位调酒师。现在的他尤其因为 在创意调酒中融合了中国风味与色泽而 享誉盛名，例如他在伏特加里掺入生姜和 四川辣椒，此外往往还会使用视觉元素、 音响或令人出乎意料的素材来诉说故事， 他的竹子鸡尾酒便是伴随着经典中国音 乐的杰出之作。 他亦喜欢突出花果的季节性 ,「China Rose」便是一例，灵感来源于他的家乡。 张子瑜说 :「粉红玫瑰是我出生地的市花 , 调酒本身的颜色和玫瑰一样美丽，味道 又很细致。 」他结合了荔枝酒和玫瑰糖浆、 新鲜覆盆子泥、柠檬汁，再加上独一无二 添有玫瑰的烈酒。此款鸡尾酒最后以香槟 作结，撒上玫瑰干花瓣，再淋点自制玫瑰 水，散出一阵芬芳。这种微妙掳获各种感 官的手法肯定能够讨得女性顾客的欢心。

另外，张子瑜爱与顾客谈天，解释 鸡尾酒和其背后的文化意涵。「我看了很 多书来学习马丁尼等经典调酒及它们的 演变过程。禁酒令解除后，兴起了一股 新风格 – 干马丁尼配干苦艾酒，在此之 前是老汤姆琴酒配甜苦艾酒加冰。我试 着以这些经典调酒为基底并表达我的个 人特色。 」 凭借他对于传统英式和美式鸡尾酒 的了解，以及他对日式调酒手法一丝不苟 的欣赏，张子瑜开发出一系列独特调酒， 为他囊括了海内外无数大奖。他在华北 地区 Absolut Invite 2014 赢得首奖后，获 得了至斯德哥尔摩参加决赛的机会，而 在 Havana Club 兰姆酒竞赛里的杰出表现 则让他去了趟古巴首都。 在 他 另 一 款 创 新 之 作「Dragon Dance」里，关键素材是古老的中式热门 零嘴 – 山楂干。「我发现这里所有人都 会在饭后吃山楂果清肠胃，这点给了我 灵感。山楂果助消化，用来制作餐后调 酒最好不过了。我试过在伏特加里加山 楂，但不太对味，后来我发现波本酒最 适合。」 他将波本酒与鲜榨柠檬汁、杜松子 酒和覆盆子糖浆混合，用吸管吸起一滴 在手背上，尝了尝，然后用力地跟冰块 一起摇晃，再过滤倒至一只蓝白相间的 中式瓷杯里，将鸡尾酒巧妙地伪装成一 杯中式药草茶。深受欢迎的中式圆形状 糖果山楂饼随侍在侧，增添水果风味， 完全彰显了张子瑜的风格 – 原创地恰如 其分。 auspicious tastes

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完美品鉴

the perfect serve Tom Jones, suave in a sharp suit and with a whisky tumbler cradled in hand, deflects comparisons with a certain international man of mystery. “More Phileas Fogg than James Bond” is the way he describes his role as Global Brand Ambassador for Johnnie Walker. His dedication to a job that entails near-constant travel is such that, during an epic eighteen-month nautical journey around the world to promote Johnnie Walker Blue Label, he had to schedule his own wedding to coincide with a mini-break while the yacht was in dry dock for maintenance. § Jones is briefly in town for the Hong Kong premiere of “The Gentleman’s Wager II,” Johnnie Walker Blue Label’s new short film. Before flying off to meetings in Kenya, he took time out from his jet-paced schedule to explain the perfect serve of Johnnie Walker Blue Label to Mamie Chen. § Tom Jones 身着俊挺西装，英姿飒爽，加上一

杯威士忌在手，让他和某位全球知名的神秘男性角色比较起来相差无几。身 为尊尼获加 (Johnnie Walker) 全球品牌大使，他形容自己的角色比起「007占 士邦」，更像是环游世界八十天的主人公「霍格先生（Phileas Fogg）」。对 此重要任务，他百分百投入，参与为期18个月的史诗级海上航行计划，到世 界各地推广尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌。为此，他还将婚礼改期，配合游艇靠港停 泊维修期间举行。§ Tom Jones 近来为了尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌最新微电影《 绅士的赌注II》香港首映。他特地从空中飞人般的紧凑时程中抽空，于飞往 肯亚前接受 Mamie Chen 专访，畅谈尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌独到的「完美一击

COURTESY OF JOHNNIE WALKER

(perfect serve)」。

What’s the premise behind the perfect serve of Johnnie Walker Blue Label?

The perfect serve is a way of highlighting the flavors in Johnnie Walker Blue Label – all the flavors of the whiskies selected from different distilleries that have been aging in casks for varying lengths of time. The key is to take your time and make the proper preparations for drawing out the best flavors from your glass of Blue Label.

It’s not just about drinking, per se. It’s about keeping the whisky in your mouth and

尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌「完美一击」背后的 概念为何？ 透过所谓的「完美一击」，可以品尝尊 尼获加蓝牌的各种风味－不同酒厂中，酒 桶窖藏陈酿时间各异的威士忌含括的所有 味道，重点在于花点时间、做好准备，引 出你杯中蓝牌威士忌的绝佳风味。 除却喝酒本身，威士忌入口后于嘴中 暂留、细细品味也相当重要 ；甚或闻酒香， 试着多了解即将入口的威士忌，在脑中想 象一下，都有助进一步享受美酒滋味。 不过现实生活中，真正置身社交场合 auspicious tastes

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Jude Law in The Gentleman’s Wager II by Johnnie Walker Blue Label Jude Law 出演尊尼获加蓝牌威士忌微电影《绅士的赌注II》

savoring the flavor, maybe even nosing the liquid a little to gain some impressions and build a mental picture that helps you enjoy the flavors even more.

Of course in reality, when you’re talking and drinking socially, all the useful tips you’ve learned go out the window. You drink much faster, and you’re likely sipping the whisky with a relatively dry mouth. That’s why we have a tray that holds a glass of ice water and a glass of whisky together, highlighting the importance of the water from the beginning. You could almost say that the whisky itself is not the drink – the water is the drink and the whisky is the flavor.

Could you walk us through a tasting with the perfect serve?

I usually start with two sips of water: one to cleanse my palate and another to make my mouth very cold and wet. I want to chill my palate, so that when the warm liquid of the whisky comes in contact with it, I’ll notice the warmth and the mouthfeel of the whisky

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more. This is important, because we don’t often spend time thinking about the actual texture of a liquid. The first impression is that the whisky is silky smooth. People often describe it as buttery, creamy, oily, velvety – all those words can apply.

I also want to make sure my mouth is nice and moist before I sip the whisky, so that the dilution takes place in my mouth rather than the traditional method of adding a couple of drops of water to the glass of whisky and swirling to open it up. This way I can actually create that effect in my mouth, with all the buttery, creamy flavors and hints of fruit coming through.

I sip the whisky and allow it to flow around my mouth for about ten seconds. As it warms up, the flavors seem to be delivered one after the other, as if doors are opening to new rooms with different flavors.

What are your thoughts on the debate about single malt Scotch whisky versus blended?

Single malts are the ingredients that we use to make a blended Scotch whisky. But as a category and as a globally available liquid, they have only been around since the early 1970s. They are marketed as being the single most exquisite expression of each distillery.

And they definitely are. We own twenty-eight award-winning single malt distilleries. And we take the finest whiskies from those distilleries and blend them together to create Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

So if you ask me which is better, it depends on what your angle is. I think single malts are great. But it’s like standing at a salad bar and deciding that today I only want to eat tomatoes, and that’s it. For me, that’s a single malt.

As Global Brand Ambassador, you probably get your share of whisky.

This isn’t my first of the day. I’ll be finished by about eleven o’clock tonight, and I’ll have had a couple more by then. I daresay I’ll have a Diet Coke when I get back to the hotel.

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喝酒却常常不是这么回事，所知的品酒步 骤似乎都只能抛诸脑后，酒灌得快、还口 干舌燥便急着啜饮威士忌。因此我们上威 士忌时，酒盘上一定要同时放杯冰水，让 客人知道品酒前喝水的重要性，甚至可以 说威士忌并非酒体，水才是本体，威士忌 则是味道的来源。

COURTESY OF JOHNNIE WALKER (3)

「完美一击」的品尝过程为何，可以形容一 下吗？ 我自己通常从喝两口水开始 ：一口清 一下嘴中味道，另一口让嘴巴变得湿冷。 味蕾冰镇一下，温暖的威士忌入口时就能 立即注意到酒液的暖度，对威士忌入口的 感受更为细致。我们常忽略酒的真实质感， 没多花点心思，也突显此一步骤的重要性。 人们对威士忌的第一印象为如丝般滑顺， 或是柔滑、绵密、油滑或绒般光滑等形容 词也常听到。 我也会确定嘴巴够湿，准备好才喝威 士忌，让稀释效果可以直接在嘴中完成， 而非滴水到威士忌里、轻晃几下的传统醒 酒方式。 如此一来，各种效果都在嘴里触 发，让所有柔滑或绵密滋味及水果韵致碰 撞出美味火花。 威士忌入口后，我习惯让酒滑满口腔 约 10 秒，暖了之后，各式风味一一袭来， 如同打开各个潜藏不同美味的房间一般。

“…the flavors seem to be delivered one after the other, as if doors are opening to new rooms… … 各式风味一一袭来，如同打开各 个潜藏不同美味的房间一般。“

单一麦芽苏格兰威士忌及混酿威士忌孰优 孰劣，各有支持者，您怎么看？ 单一麦芽为制作混酿苏格兰威士忌的 重要成份。作为威士忌的种类之一以及全 球均可酿制的酒类，单一麦芽威士忌自 70 年代初期之后才问世。威士忌品牌视他们 为每家酿酒厂质量最佳的唯一代表，也确 实如此。尊尼获加共有 28 家获相关奖项肯 定之单一麦芽酿酒厂，而尊尼获加蓝牌威 士忌正是这些优秀酒厂混制的结晶。 要说哪个比较好，端看切入的观点为 何。我觉得单一麦芽很棒，但有点像是到 沙拉吧决定今天只吃蕃茄，其他的不碰一 般。对我来说，单一麦芽就是那样。 作为全球品牌大使，相信分到的威士忌也 不会少吧？ 这不是我今天的第一杯，今晚 11 点工 作结束前，大概还会喝好几杯，所以回饭 店之后我叫的一定会是健怡可乐。 auspicious tastes

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入林品酒

into the woods A serene space that captures the interplay of light and leaves elevates the cocktail to a culinary experience.

JUST STEPS FROM THE BUZZ of Wyndham Street, a short flight 车水马龙的云咸街旁，爬几阶楼梯登时可以进入 of stairs leads a world away. The Woods is an urban retreat, a 完全不同的世界。时尚酒吧 The Woods 犹如城 calm haven of warm natural elements unlike any other bar in 市绿洲，处处可见温暖的自然元素，让人找回内 Hong Kong. This relaxed and sophisticated cocktail destination 心的平静，风格迥异于香港其他酒吧。这个让人 is the brainchild of Victoria Chow, a dynamic young entrepre放松、精心布置的调酒据点由活力十足的加州青 neur from California. 年创业家周立韻（Victoria）一手打造。 Victoria grew up in both HK and the US. While Victoria 从小在香港及美国两地 BY studying at Berkeley, she lived only a short drive 长大。在柏克莱求学期间住在车程不 CHRIS DWYER from the Napa Valley, something that helped kindle 远的纳帕谷，就此燃起她对葡萄酒的 her passion for wine. After taking wine certification 热情。结束葡萄酒认证课程后，她发 PHOTOGRAPHY BY courses, she realized that when it came to cock觉，说到鸡尾酒，香港酒吧好像还少 DAVID HARTUNG tails, something was missing from Hong Kong’s bar 了点什么。 「世界各大城市都有一流 scene: “All these big cities had great cocktail bars, 的鸡尾酒吧，唯独香港好像水平落后 but Hong Kong wasn’t at the same standard. It was difficult to 了一截，要找杯柯梦波丹 (Cosmopolitan) 或性感 get anything past a Cosmopolitan or Sex on the Beach!” 海滩 (Sex on the Beach) 以外的调酒似乎都有点 Her decision was perfectly timed. “A lot of people were 困难！」 starting to import some really cool spirits and interest was Victoria 酝酿开酒吧的时机也恰恰好，就像 growing,” she says. “But people didn’t think cocktails were that 她所说 ： 「越来越多人开始进口一些不错的烈酒， complicated to make; in fact, making a good one is equivalent 人们的兴趣也愈趋浓厚。大家常觉得调杯鸡尾酒 to cooking a really good dish – you have to think about where 并非难事，但事实上，做出一杯好的调酒难度可 your ingredients are coming from, the balance, how to present 完全不逊于煮出一道好菜。要对材料来源掌握的 it – it’s all part of the story and experience.” 一清二楚、精巧拿捏平衡并能完美呈现，都是说 As a result, Chow has launched a unique food and cocktail 故事及整体体验的一环。 」 pairing experience at The Woods, with themes that change 也正因如此，Victoria 在 The Woods 发起独 seasonally. “We focus on the provenance of the ingredients, 树一格的餐点搭配鸡尾酒体验活动，主题也随着 working with them at their prime.” 每季有所变化。 「食材根源为关键所在，要掌握 Chow and her staff use the events as opportunities to 最当季的时刻融入鸡尾酒中。 」 interact with customers, explaining the concepts behind the Victoria 及员工把握每次活动和客人互动的 creations and celebrating the special spirits that make them 机会，悉心说明每道作品的创作理念，赞誉所用 unique. “We pair each one with a dish, but it’s the drink that’s 的特别烈酒品种，才让酒吧如此与众不同。 「每杯 the center of attention.” Here she presents four ocean-themed 酒都搭配一道菜，但调酒才是重点所在。 」下列是 attention-getters. 她精心推荐的四款以海洋为主题的吸睛调酒 。

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DIGESTIF 餐后酒

Ocean Spray 海洋浪花 Don Julio Blanco Tequila is combined with grapefruit juice and thyme-infused syrup before being shaken and finally crowned with sprigs of thyme. The cocktail is paired with a striking sorbet of salmon roe and blood orange served in a coupe and garnished with sea grapes, Caulerpa lentillifera, the delicate seaweed beloved in Japanese cuisine. The final touch to the drink is an atomizer spritz of brine made from caperberries and sea salts. “The glass is actually designed for wine,” says Chow, “so you can really put your nose in it before you raise it up to taste. This cocktail is the ocean spray in action.”

Don Julio Blanco 龙 舌 兰 酒 混 着 葡 萄 柚 汁 及 百 里 香 糖 浆 后 摇 杯， 再 放 上 一 束 百 里 香 点 缀。鸡尾酒搭配鲑鱼卵及血橙雪葩，话题性 十足，放在碟型杯中，缀以一串新鲜海葡萄

(Caulerpa lentillifera), 即备受喜爱、海葡萄在 日式料理中广受欢迎。最后用喷雾器，朝调 酒喷上一抹刺山柑及海盐制成的盐水，可谓 「玻璃杯专为这款 神来一笔。Victoria 说明 ： 酒所设计，可先探鼻子闻一闻，再拿起来品尝， 简直就是海洋浪花的进行式版本。 」

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MAIN 主餐

Bloody Mer 血腥玛莉 Ketel One Vodka is the hero of Chow’s playful oceanic take on the Bloody Mary. She muddles uni, the precious roe of the sea urchin, into a paste and shakes it with her house Bloody Mary mix, which includes tomato juice and Tabasco. The addition of three frozen balls is a clever touch to allow adjusting the drink to taste – one of Worcestershire sauce, another of celery, and the third of Bloody Mary mix with an extra hit of Tabasco. The drink is paired with a fried crab cake in aioli made with red bell pepper and crowned with a Japanese river crab.

Victoria 的海洋版血腥玛莉具有许多巧思，Ketel One 伏 特加正是其中的灵魂所在。她把珍贵的海胆混打成膏， 再加入自家血腥玛莉中一起摇杯，内有西红柿汁及

Tabasco 辣酱等材料。一并附上的三颗冰球－伍斯 特酱、西洋芹及增加 Tabasco 剂量的血腥玛莉等 三种口味可随客人喜好，用来调整鸡尾酒的味道。 搭配的餐点为炸蟹糕佐蒜味酱及红灯笼椒，最后 再冠以一只日式河蟹即可上桌。

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DESSERT 甜点

The Black Pearl 黑珍珠 A sweet and sumptuous ending pairs Zacapa Rum with white chocolate and a surprising dab of caviar, an idea inspired by Heston Blumenthal. “I was stuck at first coming up with an idea for dessert linked to the ocean,” says Chow. “Heston wrote about unusual flavor combinations that work well – white chocolate and caviar was one of them.”

Chow’s creation starts with a reduction of white chocolate milk and fresh vanilla bean to complement the rum’s spiced notes. The shell like an oyster’s is in fact made from white chocolate, and the caviar crowns a scoop of ice cream flavored with sea salt and caramel.

Zacapa 兰姆酒搭配白巧克力，并出人意表加 入一抹鱼子酱，最后一道甜腻奢华之作灵感 来 自 英 国 名 厨 Heston Blumenthal。Victoria 表示 ： 「最开始发想以海洋为主题的甜点其实 碰到了些瓶颈，那时刚好想到 Heston 的文章 , 提到很多不寻常味道组合而发挥奇效的例子， APPETIZER 开胃菜

Rock Pool 岩池 “Tanqueray No. 10 gin is complex, with its little hints of citrus,” says Chow. “It’s a refreshing cleanser that opens the palate and whets the appetite.” She uses its character to great effect in a drink she names Rock Pool. The gin is first infused with the umami-rich flavor of kombu seaweed by soaking some of the dried kelp in it until rehydrated. Then the gin is combined with lemon juice and egg white, shaken, and presented in a seashell with a straw. The cocktail is paired with botan ebi shrimp, served sashimi-style so as not to overpower the delicate nuances of the drink. The sweet and refreshing seafood rests on a bed of gel made from blue curaçao.

This liqueur’s orange flavor derives from the dried peel of the bitter, laraha citrus fruit, and it resonates perfectly with the notes of the Tanqueray No. 10.

白巧克力搭配鱼子酱正是其中之一。 」Victoria 先从慢煮浓缩白巧克力牛奶及新鲜香草籽开 始，以便搭配略有辣劲口感的兰姆酒。生蚝 壳其实是用白巧克力制成，放上一球海盐及 焦糖口味的冰淇淋，最后缀上鱼子酱便大功 告成。

说到 Tanqueray No. 10 琴酒，Victoria 形容 ： 「味道繁复，带有些许柑橘韵致， 清新口感可以清清口腔，有利于敞开胃口并促进食欲。 」她在自创的鸡尾酒岩池

(Rock Pool) 中将此特色发挥到极致。 鲜味丰厚的干昆布先浸水膨胀，再与琴酒混和，加入柠檬汁及蛋白后摇杯， 放入贝壳中插上吸管即可上桌。鸡尾酒搭配牡丹虾赤身恰到好处，不至喧宾夺主 掩盖精巧的细节。 口味鲜甜清新的海鲜下方垫着 curaçao 蓝甜酒制成的酒冻，甜酒橙香来自 苦味的 laraha 柑橘干皮成分，与 Tanqueray No. 10 的气息融合的天衣无缝。

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Café One

International 1/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel, 310 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号香 港柏宁铂尔曼酒店1楼 q +852 2839 3311 Sun to Thu & Public holiday: 06:00-00:00 Fri, Sat & eve of Public Holiday: 06:00-01:00 A Smart Casual 5

Ebb & Flow

Bar and Lounge G/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel, 310 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号香 港柏宁铂尔曼酒店地下 q +852 2839 3377 Daily: 08:00-01:00 A Smart Casual 5

Fook Lam Moon (Macau) 福臨門 (澳门)

Cantonese 2008, 2/F, Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baía de Nossa Senhora da Esperança, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综 合渡假城银河酒店2楼2008 q +853 8886 2182 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Foxglove

Bar and Lounge 2/F, Printing House, 6 Duddell St, Central, Hong Kong 香港都爹利街6号印刷行2楼 q +852 2116 8949 A Smart Casual 5

Imperial Court 金殿堂

Cantonese MGM MACAU, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙 大马路澳门美高梅 q +853 8802 2361 Mon to Fri: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 Sat, Sun & public holiday: 10:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Kee Club

Private Members Club 6/F, 32 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环威灵顿街32号6楼 q +852 2810 9000 Mon to Thu: 10:00-00:00 Fri to Sat: 10:00 till late A Smart Casual 5

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Please Don’t Tell (PDT) at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental

The Shell at MO Bar, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15号置地文 华东方酒店 MO Bar, The Shell q +852 2131 0077 Tue to Sat: 17:00-00:30, 5-30 January, 2016 A Smart Casual

Riva and The Deck Riva餐厅及露天平台

International 27/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel, 310 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号香 港柏宁铂尔曼酒店27楼 q +852 2839 3327 Daily: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-00:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Macau 澳门文华东方水疗中心

Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙博士 大马路澳门文华东方酒店 q +853 8805 8588 Daily: 11:00-23:00

Spotlight 星汇餐厅

International Shop 2113, Level 2, Celebrity Tower at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇 酒店明星汇二楼2113店 q +853 8865 6668 Breakfast Buffet: Daily: 06:30-10:30; Lunch Buffet: Mon to Sat: 12:00-15:00; Dinner Buffet: Daily: 18:00-22:30; Sunday Brunch: Sun: 11:30-15:00 5

Summer Palace 夏宫

Cantonese 5/F, Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, Hong Kong 香港中区法院道香格里拉大酒店5楼 q +852 2820 8552 Mon to Sat: 11:30-15:00; 18:30-23:00 Sun & Public Holiday: 11:0015:00; 18:30-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

T’ang Court 唐阁

Cantonese 1/F and 2/F, The Langham, Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀北京道8号 香港朗廷酒店1楼及2楼 q +852 2132 7898 Mon to Fri: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 Sat, Sun & Public Holiday: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Manor 雅舍 International 1F, The St. Regis Macao, Estrada Do Istmo. S/N Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路澳门瑞吉 金沙城中心酒店1楼 q +853 8113 2777 Daily: Breakfast: 06:30-11:00 Lunch: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge 丽思酒廊 Bar and Lounge 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Macau 澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店51层 q +853 8886 6868 Sun to Thu: 10:00-01:00 Fri to Sat: 10:00-02:00 A Smart Casual 5

The St. Regis Bar 瑞吉酒吧 Bar and Lounge The St. Regis Macao, Estrada Do Istmo.

S/N Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路澳门瑞 吉金沙城中心酒店 q +853 8113 3700 Daily: Continental: 08:00-12:00; Afternoon Tea: 12:00-17:00; Bar Bites: 17:00-01:00 A Casual Sophistication 5

The Woods Bar and Lounge L/G, 17 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷李活道17号地下 q +852 2522 0281 Mon to Sat: 18:00-02:00 A Smart Casual 5

Yan Toh Heen 欣图轩 Cantonese Lower Level, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道 18 号 香港洲际酒店大堂低座 q +852 2313 2323 Mon to Sat: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-23:00 Sun & Public Holiday: 11:3015:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Chef Lam Yuk Ming of Studio City’s Pearl Dragon first double boils the bird’s nest in water and then combines it with richly flavored almond cream, lightly sweetened with rock sugar syrup, before steaming and serving the delicacy in a scooped out Hawaiian papaya. 新濠影汇玥龙轩总厨林钰明，以双锅炖煮官燕窝后，倒进香浓的杏汁、 微甜的冰糖浆，再盛装进挖空的夏威夷万寿果里蒸煮，便成了一道美味甜品。

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DAVID HARTUNG

DESSERT

Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com