TK25 Island Dining

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 25

K I T C H E N

I S L A N D

D I N I N G

LAUCALA

An Island Like No Other 无「屿」伦比

SANYA

Beachfront Fresh 海角轩

BALI

Gastronomic Synergy

双厨美味加成

STARTER

斐济「洛卡拉岛度假村(Laucala Island Resort)」行政主厨Anthony Healy的斐济家常料理kokoda现代版以 当日捕获的新鲜白肉鱼为开端。他表示：「鱼肉用当地柠檬汁腌过，再加上新鲜椰奶、自家菜园蔬菜及 金莲花幼苗，最后顶端放上一颗凤梨晶球上桌，待晶球戳破，溢出鲜甜果汁，即可算大功告成。」

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DAVID HARTUNG

Anthony Healy, Executive Chef at Laucala Island Resort, presents his modern interpretation of the classic Fijian kokoda, which starts with white-fleshed fish caught that day. “We marinate it in local lemon juice,” says Healy, “and finish it with fresh coconut cream, garden vegetables, and young nasturtiums.

On top is a pineapple spherification, which guests burst to let the juice finish off the dish.”

T A S T I N G 25

K I T C H E N

I S L A N D

D I N I N G

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3915 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Andrea Lo

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Catherine Shaw

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Inara Sim

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Juliana Loh

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Kate Nicholson

TRANSLATION SERVICES

Icy Ip

Jane Wong

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Babel Communications

CHINESE EDITOR

ACCOUNTANT

Victoria Lei

Terrie Lam

PRINTING

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Asia One Printing

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Pek Wong Ella Sio Lily Iao EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

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GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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DISTRIBUTION

DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE

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Sea Crab and Sweet Corn is from Anthony Healy, Executive Chef at Laucala Island Resort: “The crab comes in live from the night divers and we collect it directly off the boat.” The prepared crabmeat is served with sweet corn custard, corn purée, and smoked yogurt. Learn more, beginning on page 40. 来自斐济「洛卡拉岛度假村(Laucala Island Resort)」 行政主厨Anthony Healy的海蟹及玉米：「渔民夜间 潜水现抓海蟹，上船后让我们直接取货，保证新鲜。」 请翻阅本刊第40页了解更多。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2016 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Island Dining, we explore several of Asia’s most beguiling tropical destinations.

For our cover story, we take a private plane to the Fijian island of Laucala, a luxury retreat that pursues an ethos of sustainability under the vision of Red Bull founder Dietrich Mateschitz. The island’s local farms and hydroponic greenhouses supply 85 percent of the resort’s produce, and the culinary team goes spearfishing and free-diving for lobsters to gather the freshest seafood for each evening’s menu.

Laucala’s creative degustation menu changes nightly, but perhaps the most memorable meals are the simple ones enjoyed along the beach, under an arching thatch roof overlooking a sea of endless blue. There is also Thai food served amidst a dense jungle canopy, as well as cocktails of local rum savored with views across the gleaming bay and traditional Fijian dinners cooked in a deep earthen oven called a love. Between meals, there’s always time for horseback riding, scuba diving, or reef tours in the two-man submarine. At the end of the day, deep contentment comes with bottomless glasses of soothing kava, serene Fijian music, and the soft ocean breezes.

Closer to home, we visit two resorts in Sanya that have earned their reputations for culinary excellence. We explore the history of traditional Hainan dishes like Hele Crab and Wenchang Chicken and learn how local ingredients like lotus stem and yellow lantern chili can bring a meal to life. And to cap off our summer sojourn, we experience a four-hand feast to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of one of Bali’s most elegant resorts.

Enjoy!

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Heights of Dining • 12 Art and Empire • 14 Fantasized Food 18 Making It Personal • 22 Extravagantly Cantonese • 28 Steak and Spectacle 32 Grandmother’s Noodles • 40 An Island Like No Other • 60 Beachfront Fresh

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CONTENTS

72 Louvre at First Sight • 74 A Chef for All Seasons • 76 Altitude with Attitude 80 The Science of Delicious • 84 Cantonese Collaboration • 92 Gastronomic Synergy 96 Clear-cut Cocktails • 100 Four of a Kind • 106 Parallel Universes 110 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 112 D E S S E R T

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飨食之美－仰之弥高

heights of dining An award-winning design brings the spectacular topography of Taiwan to the tables of the world.

pinkoi.com/store/wantz

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COURTESY OF TMBCC (2)

INSPIRED LIVING

THE TEAM AT WANTZ, the innovative Taiwanese tableware and stationery brand, is driven by a clear passion for their homeland and is determined to find the best ways to expose a discerning international audience to its beauties. Not satisfied with producing everyday products, Wantz invites the world to savor the natural wonders and incessant vitality that Taiwan offers residents and visitors alike.

Brand owner Gary Chen, after sharing many memorable meals with many friends from all over the world, came to the conclusion that the key to people’s hearts is food. And thus, Wantz’s ceramic serving set ToGather was born. The set, which took home one of Taiwan’s prestigious Golden Pin Design Awards in 2015, transposes the landscape of iconic Jade Mountain, the island nation’s highest peak, into a striking dining table showpiece.

Of the four platters that make up the conjoined set, the two largest represent the densely populated plains that extend down the western side of the leaf-shaped island that is Taiwan; the two smaller ones portray the mountain’s sharp dip into the Huatung Valley. The pieces are made from high-quality Japanese porcelain, and, because the complex undulations of the design make successful production of each complete set so challenging, only a limited number are available.

台湾创意餐具及文具品牌「享瓷 (Wantz)」对于家乡有 无比热诚并深受启发，致力以各种创意方式让全球消 费者认识台湾独一无二之美。不止满足于设计日常物 品，其系列作品更像在邀请全世界一探台湾引人入胜 的自然景观，同时感受让本地居民及游客深深着迷的 无穷活力。 品牌拥有人 Gary Chen 曾和世界各地的好友品尝 令人难忘的美食，发觉食物才是真正能打动人心的关 键，这也正是「聚山 (ToGather)」系列瓷盘组的由来。 「聚山」以台湾最高峰玉山为灵感，雄伟的山棱地势转 化成餐具造型，作品也荣获台湾首屈一指的设计大奖 － 2015 年金点设计奖肯定。 「聚山」由四片餐瓷组成，较大的两片代表树叶 型台湾岛人口稠密的西岸平原地区，两小片则模拟山 脉延至花东纵谷的险峻山势。餐盘以高品质日本白瓷 为制作原料，同时也因设计仿照玉山跌宕起伏的地景， 制作实为不易，因此数量有限。

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艺术与帝国

Painted propaganda helped sell the public on colonial produce.

BRITAIN’S EMPIRE MARKETING BOARD, established in 1926, embraced new tactics in public relations, producing everything from newspaper advertisements and poster series to films and exhibitions in its vigorous efforts to persuade the prospering British citizenry to “Buy Empire.”

The agricultural produce of Britain’s myriad colonial islands was regularly romanticized by the artists the board commissioned. Here we see one in a series of five posters

by Scottish painter Keith Henderson that were designed to explore and exploit the profitable tropical products of that farthest-flung of imperial paradises, Fiji. Languorous banana leaves draw the eye to a worker harvesting low-hanging coconuts. A gorgeous backdrop of scarlet-flowering pineapples and endless lush acres of sugarcane leads toward hazy blue hills.

But the idealized beauty of paint was also used to mask some of the harsher realities of colonialism. To this day, the island nation is home to both indigenous Fijians and the descendants of indentured laborers brought from India to toil in the plantations and turn out the crystalline cubes of Fijian sugar still found in supermarkets around the world. 成 立 于 1926 年 的 英 国「 帝 国 市 场 委 员 会 Britain’s Empire

Marketing Board」一向对最新公关策略持开放态度，采用 的宣传媒介从新闻广告、主题海报，到电影及展览等五花八 门，希望能成功让富裕的英国公民们加入「购买」的行列。 大英帝国的殖民岛屿难以计数，生产的农作物透过委 员会委托的艺术家以作品呈现，颇具浪漫渲染色彩。在此可 以看到苏格兰画家 Keith Henderson 创作的五张海报系列之 一，以大英帝国范圍中最为边陲的海岛天堂斐济为主题，一 探当地高利润的热带作物。观者的目光随着舒懒的芭蕉叶移 往正在采撷低垂椰子的工人身影，身旁正是凤梨花开，呈现 一片艳红，一望无际的甘蔗田则与远处朦胧的蓝色山景相连， 绵延不绝。 然而，引人入胜的画作过往常用来美化殖民主义下严 酷的现实。时至今天，斐济居民仍以土著及过去从印度送往 当地协助辛劳种植工作的契约劳工后代为主，现今斐济的结 晶方糖仍输往全球，各地超市皆有贩售。

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FIJI - COPRA, PINEAPPLES, BANANAS, SUGAR, FROM THE SERIES ‘SOME EMPIRE ISLANDS’, 1929 (COLOUR LITHO), HENDERSON, KEITH (1883-1982) / MANCHESTER ART GALLERY, UK / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

art and empire

FOOD & ART

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FOOD DESIGN

食物的奇幻世界

fantasized food ONCE UPON A TIME, our relationship with what we eat was one of sheer physiological necessity. But the complex nature of modern food psychology spans everything from abandoned hedonistic indulgence to gnawing doubt over nutritional values and sourcing to agonized guilt in the face of runaway population growth and climate turmoil.

Who doesn’t experience at least a flicker of conscience each time they’re forced to toss uneaten food into the trash can?

These and other less worrying questions were amply addressed as part of Edible Tales, an exhibition that recently wrapped up at the Taiwan Design Museum in Taipei’s historic Songshan Cultural and Creative Park. Through engaging visual displays and installations, Edible Tales prompts reflection on issues we manage to evade in daily life, while at the same time tempting us with expectations of the potential wonders in the future of food.

The exhibition’s content, produced by a selection of recognized international food designers and artists, is split into four chapters: First We Eat, And We Play, Then We Worry, and Next We Wonder. Each explores a different subject related to food production, distribution, or consumption.

For example, Layer One Labs, the Taiwanese company behind the revolutionary desktop 3D printer Atom, brings the possibility of

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printed food to life with Chocomesh, a filigree-like chocolate web that can be printed in an endless variety of seemingly impossible shapes. And Swedish art director Hedvig Astrom Kushner spends her weekends mixing up healthy smoothies that she painstakingly matches to Pantone color swatches. Her partner, Michael Kushner, photographs each one, and posts the images to their project website, pantonesmoothies.com. At Space10, an IKEA research lab, Creative Director Kaave Pour is overseeing development of a series of meatballs that explore what we might expect from food in the future. Instead of being made from animal flesh, these odd edible spheres contain everything from common household waste to bugs and algae, and one is 3D-printed.

In the forefront of drink technology, Ooho! offers an edible, biodegradable water container that provides a sustainable solution to disposable plastic water bottles. The clear “spherified” capsule was developed

by London-based Skipping Rock Labs, cofounded by designers Rodrigo García González, Pierre Paslier, and Guillaume Couche. Work is underway to make the outer membrane sturdy enough to allow Ooho! to be transported easily. And to highlight the impact of our wasteful water-consumption habits, Canadian artist Nicholas Hanna cycled around the streets of Taipei with his

过去人类和食物的关系仅为满足生理 需求，但随着现代食物心理学兴起， 人们从恣意大吃的享乐派、斤斤计较 营养价值 、到因人口膨胀及气候变 迁冲击而惶惶不安。试问有谁在把余 食丢弃时，没经历过良心谴责？以上 议题均在最近结束的「大玩食物新创 意 －《 食 物 说 Edible Tales》 食 物 设 计展览」中深入讨论。会场设于台北 松山文化创意园区台湾设计馆，藉由 视觉摆设和互动性装置，让观者反思 日常中刻意回避的课题，引领我们发 挥想像，一探食物光景及潜力。 「食物说」展品由多位知名食物 设计师及艺术家操刀，分为四大主 题 ：探讨食物、吃的艺术、食物议题 以及吃的未来，针对食物的制造、流 通及消费等主题切入。例如，「Layer One Labs」正是打造革命性技术的桌 面 3D 打印机 Atom 的幕后台湾团队， 以「Chocomesh」让我们看到把食物 列印的可能性。机器把巧克力印成花 网，各种看似不可能的造型跃于眼前。 瑞典艺术总监 Hedvig Astrom Kushner 则是花了数周的时间，将标榜健康 的 奶 昔 颜 色 和 Pantone 色 票 逐 一 比 对， 由 拍 档 Michael Kushner 拍 照， 制成摄影集放在专题网站 pantonesmoothies.com 上。IKEA 研 究 实 验 室 「Space10」 创 意 总 监 Kaave Pour 观 看着肉丸的变化，探究未来人们对食 物的期待。这些「明日肉丸」是以常

IMAGES COURTESY OF WORLD DESIGN CAPITAL TAIPEI 2016 AND ALICE WANG DESIGN (5)

An ancient Chinese proverb prudently advises to “eat only finely ground grain and finely chopped meat.” Would that it were so simple.

Clockwise from top left: Famed UK food design duo Bompas & Parr at their Big Bento Redo: Taste of Color event held in Taiwan as part of the World Design Capital Taipei 2016. Closeups of the contents of the lunch on show at the World Design Capital Taipei 2016 Big Bento Redo. 左上顺时针而下：2016年台北世界设计之都系列活动之一「便当大改造 (Big Bento Redo: Taste of Color)」由知名英国设计拍档Bompas & Parr操刀。 2016年台北世界设计之都「便当大改造(Big Bento Redo)」午餐菜色近照。

TrikeWriter, a tricycle-like contraption of his own invention with which he writes Chinese water-related words on the pavement with a computer-controlled spray of “gray” water.

Edible Tales is one of six strands of The Food Project, a series of events that invites participants to reconsider their relationship with food. Organized by Alice Wang Design, a multidisciplinary consultancy based in the Taiwanese capital, in collaboration with the British Council, the initiative came about as part of the International Open Call program, held under the banner of World Design Capital (WDC) Taipei 2016. After securing funding earlier in the year, the six Open Call projects selected by WDC organizers are now in full swing, bringing a multitude of carefully researched social-design interventions to Taipei residents, including playgrounds built of junk, inner-city recycling vending machines, redesign of traditional foods, and experimental lunch schemes.

Alongside the exhibition, several artists and food designers from around the world were invited to Taipei to conduct a series of thought-provoking events. Street Food Evolution saw Bompas & Parr, the British flavor-based experience-design duo, stage a sausage-centric street-food bonanza. And designer Martí Guixé from Spain created a “wheel cake” that featured the flavors of different regions of Taiwan in each bite.

Bompas & Parr, along with local restaurant Biteology, overhauled the typical Taiwanese lunchbox in the Big Bento Redo, inventing a healthier, tastier, and waste-free alternative to the ubiquitous midday fare.

The final outcomes of all the Open Call projects, The Food Project among them, will be exhibited at the WDC Taipei 2016 International Design House Exhibition in Songshan Cultural and Creative Park in October.

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见的家用废弃物、虫子和水藻为原料制成， 还有一颗是 3D 列印出来的。 在水资源科技区有一颗可食用、可生 物 分 解 的 环 保 水 容 器「Ooho!」， 设 计 目 的 是 希 望 能 取 代 抛 弃 式 塑 胶 水 瓶， 以 实 现 永 续 之 道。 这 颗 晶 莹 剔 透 的 球 型 胶 囊 是 由 Skipping Rocks Lab 创 办 人 Rodrigo García González，Pierre Paslier 和 Guillaume Couche 共同研发。目前「Ooho!」正进行 外层改良，薄膜加固以便运送。此外，加 拿大艺术家 Nicholas Hanna 的作品亦直指 人类浪费水资源的习性，他骑着自己设计 的类似三轮车的「马路水印车」逛遍台北。 三轮车运行起来时，电脑控制的「灰」水 会洒在路上，书写与水有关的中文字。 「 食 物 计 划 (The Food Project)」 为 2016 年世界设计之都台北国际设计合作计 划的专案之一，目的是让观者重新思考与 食物之间的关系，「食物说」为「食物计 划」四大活动之一。展览由台北跨领域设 计咨询团队「王艾莉设计有限公司」与英 国文化协会共同筹划主办。资金挹注确认 后，WDC 主办方选定六大提案全力推展， 各式经过审慎研究、具介入性质的设计作 品出现在台北市民周遭，像是废物做成的 公园游乐场、城市内回收贩卖机、传统食 物再设计及午餐习惯实验计划等等。 展览期间，多位来自世界各地的艺术 家及食物设计师也受邀来台北举办一连串 刺激观者思考的活动。「小吃进化论 (Street Food Evolution)」邀来英国设计拍档 Bompas & Parr 打造以台式烤香肠为主的小吃盛 宴。西班牙设计师 Martí Guixé 则设计出「闪 点车轮饼」。 Bompas & Parr 另外与台湾餐 厅「咬学问 (Biteology)」合作，在「便当大 改造 (Big Bento Redo)」活动中颠覆传统台 湾便当，为每天午餐时间提供一个更加健 康、好吃的环保选项。 国际设计合作计划所有提案，包括「食 物计划」的最终成果将于 10 月开始在松山 文化创意园区 2016 年台北世界设计之都国 际设计展中公开展示。

IMAGES COURTESY OF WORLD DESIGN CAPITAL TAIPEI 2016 AND ALICE WANG DESIGN (6)

FOOD DESIGN

Images and artworks on show at “Edible Tales”, an exhibition exploring the future of food curated

by Alice Wang Design for the World Design Capital Taipei 2016. 「王艾莉设计有限公司」为2016年台北世界设计之都策划「食物说Edible Tales 食物设计展览」并展出影像及作品，探讨食物的未来可能性。

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个人风格就是王道

making it personal

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DESIGN

Most architects commissioned to design the interior of a new restaurant start by creating a setting to reflect a distinctive cuisine-related theme. But for Hong Kong architect Joyce Wang, the challenge at Rhoda, the newly opened modern comfort-food eatery, was to deliver a space that would be all about the chef.

Nathan Green is the inimitable tattooed and bearded Britishborn culinary celebrity who until recently was at the helm of the popular 22 Ships. He and Hong Kong restaurateur Yenn Wong tasked Wang with creating a unique setting in the 151 m2 Sai Wan space that would reflect Green’s vigorous persona. The result is a dining destination where the extraordinary interiors attract as much attention as the menu. § 每当建筑师接到餐

厅室内设计案，十之八九都会先从反映餐点特色的构想着 手，以呈现其独特风格。香港建筑师 Joyce Wang 则接受截 然不同的挑战，她要让新开张的摩登疗愈系餐厅「Rhoda」 与主厨 Nathan Green 的个人气质相互呼应。蓄着络腮胡、 独特刺青刻画于身的Nathan是來自英国的明星大厨，不久 前还是人气餐厅「22 Ships」的灵魂人物。他和香港餐厅经 营家黄佩茵委请 Joyce 改造西环一处151平方米的空间，并 希望能在设计中展现他的强烈风格。结果无懈可击，室内 装潢跟餐点一样引人入胜。

DENNIS LO (2)

It’s unusual to center a design concept around a personality.

How did you go about it?

22 Ships is located close by our studio in Wan Chai, and Nate would often poke his head in to see what we were working on. I’ve always liked the aesthetic of his food and I said yes straightaway, as we already had a bond from brainstorming long before he found this space.

Chef Nathan Green

以人作为设计主轴相当少见，如何找到 切入点？ 「22 Ships」离我们湾仔的工作室仅 有几步之遥，Nate 常探过头来看我们的 日常工作。我一直很喜欢他的料理美学， 当初收到请求时马上就答应了。早在他 找到这个空间进行脑力激荡之前，我们 就很有火花了。 如何将主厨的个人风格转为设计元素？ 他非常实事求是，也很喜欢风格轻 松简单、可以共享的「疗愈系」美食。 相应之下，设计风格也应直来直往，展 露原本的材质风貌，也让人看到跟 Nate 一样大胆的格调。

有没有什么特别的例子？ 我们仿效 Nate 用简单素材玩出新花 样的作风，把旧洗衣机滚筒摇身一变改 为中央灯光装置 ；灵感取自 Nate 祖母名 字 Rhoda 的玫瑰之意，是装潢素材融合 烹饪技法的例子。另外，无饰面混凝土 铺上铁丝网以继续施工的程序，在工地 屡见不鲜，但在「Rhoda」我们发挥实验 精神，把它做成 Nate 私人房间 ( 半隐密 的空间 ) 的墙上装饰，上面缀有铜管及 刮胡毛刷，天花板灯箱则透出复古刺青 花纹。

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How do you translate his personality into elements of design?

He is so down-to-earth and is very into comfort food with a rustic quality that can be shared, so we knew the design had to be very honest, with raw materials, but it also had to be bold in the same way that he is.

Can you give us some specific examples?

We created a central lighting installation out of old washing machine drums that reflects Nate’s way of using very simple ingredients but doing something special with them. We also tied in materials with his cooking techniques – like the shou-sugi-ban charred wood walls and cedar tables branded with a Tudor

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rose motif [in honor of Nathan’s grandmother Rhoda, whose name means “rose”]. We experimented with an unfinished concrete which is usually pushed through chicken wire for construction – you see it on sites all the time – but here we used it as a wall finishing in Nate’s Room. The walls have copper pipes and shaving brushes, and the ceiling light box has vintage tattoo prints.

So you’ve essentially given him a home away from home?

Yes, that was the main thing. It’s something he’d never dreamt of – having his own restaurant and creating the food that he wants to make.

What was new for you in the design experience?

I don’t think I’ve ever designed a place that involved looking so closely at someone and interpreting them in a design. It had to fit like a glove but at the same time be openended enough for other people to interpret it. For example, Nate doesn’t take himself too seriously, so that’s why there’s that playful element. The doors also fully open to the street, which is a reflection of him as a neighborhood guy who talks to everyone.

You’re known for your custom lighting – how do you design illumination around a personality like Nathan Green’s?

DESIGN

LIT MA FOR JOYCE WANG (5)

It was very hard, because Rhoda is essentially one open space and we had to consider how we could give Nate enough lighting when he is cooking on the “stage.” Right across from the cooking stage is a cocktail bar, and, given the symmetry of the space, we were conscious to highlight them a bit more, keeping the zones elsewhere more moderate. Soft light also helps complement the materials palette.

And your favorite dish at Rhoda?

I’ve liked everything – but the clam dish and the potato salad are especially good.

可以说是为他打造第二个家的感觉吗？ 没错，正是以此为设计主轴。他可 能连想都没想过－能够有自己的餐厅， 做想做的餐点，而最后都实现了。

为客户量身打造灯光是您的拿手好戏－ 这次针对个人风格如此强烈的 Nathan， 又是如何构思？ 真的很伤脑筋，要思考如何在「Rhoda」有限的开放空间里，让 Nate 在料理 「舞台」上大展厨艺时仍有足够光源。料 理台正对面为调酒吧台，考量整体空间 对称及协调，两区打光较强，其他区域 则偏低调沉稳。柔和的光线也可衬托装 潢材质的色调，相辅相成。

这回设计经验有什么新的尝试？ 如此近距离观察一个人，将所见所 闻转化到设计中，对我而言还是头一遭。 要有像戴手套一般的契合度，也要保留 开放的角度，才能让他人有诠释的空间。 举例来说，Nate 一向随和不严肃，所以 餐厅也穿插许多充满玩味的元素。向街 「Rhoda」让您最喜欢的一道菜是？ 这 里 每 道 菜 都 很 棒， 真 要 说 的 话， 道的大门设计成完全开放，就是他友好、 蛤蛎及马铃薯沙拉特别好吃。 和每个人聊天打成一片的写照。

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PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

宫廷粤宴尽在澳门路氹永利皇宫

Extravagantly Cantonese at W ynn Palace Cotai The lavish décor of Wing Lei Palace in the newly opened Wynn Palace Cotai sets a regal stage for its equally lavish menu of Cantonese specialties with a contemporary spin.

In the new Wynn Palace on Cotai, Macau, a lush garden of thousands of roses, hydrangeas, orchids, and other exotic blooms ushers guests toward Wing Lei Palace’s spectacular interiors. The three-tiered dining room designed by Roger Thomas takes inspiration from European opera houses and is filled with showy touches of chinoiserie. Tasseled Chinese-inspired lanterns and rich brocade drapery lend softer notes to rooms dominated by emerald green and gold tones. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of the Performance Lake and the dazzling water fountain show.

§ A perfect accompaniment is

a “welcome” tea, chosen with the help of Wing Lei Palace’s tea sommelier team from fifty varieties on offer.

§ 永利皇宫已在澳門路氹隆重开幕，其内高级粤菜餐厅永利宫庭园花团锦簇，玫瑰、绣球

花、兰花及各种异国植物喜迎宾客到来。装潢由知名设计师 Roger Thomas 操刀，楼高三层的宴 会厅以欧陆式歌剧院为灵感，配以大量中国风元素装饰，豪华包厢以宝石绿及金色为主轴，中 泉表演尽收眼底。永利宫安排侍茶师针对不同菜式为客人搭配茶饮，推荐名单上首选为五十款 精选精酿茗茶，淡雅之余亦有丰富层次。

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ROGER DAVIS

式流苏吊灯及锦缎布幔穿插其中，富丽多彩间呈现和谐色调。落地窗旁座位可让湖畔美景及喷

DAVID HARTUNG

Pan-fried Crab Claw stuffed with Shrimp Paste in Supreme Broth 上汤煎酿百花蟹钳

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Wok-Fried Wagyu Beef with Rice Crackers 脆香和牛粒

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

CHEF SAMMY HO’S Cantonese-focused menu is peppered with regional influences and has a definite modern slant toward healthy foods and well-balanced flavors. His approach centers around the seasons and the unique ingredients they bestow. “We source everywhere – near and far – for the peak produce of each time of year,” he says. “The important thing is to keep tasting and trying, to keep traveling and learning in order to discover the very best there is. My finds are often what inspire new dishes on my menus.”

Ho brings to Wing Lei Palace his decades of experience, including stints at several notable Chinese-cuisine restaurants that garnered Michelin stars under his culinary lead.

He began cooking at the age of seven, spending a lot of his time in the kitchen learning from his mother. Ho’s grandfather ran a restaurant, and he is the only family member to follow in his forebear’s footsteps.

With a diversity of experience ranging from noodle-making to baking and dim sum, Ho has put in all the time and hard work of mastering how to make everything himself. “I started from scratch and learned it all, so no one can fool me,” he laughs. “I may not be an expert in every domain of Chinese cooking, but I know exactly how things ought to be done and what perfection looks and tastes like.”

One litmus test that separates a great Cantonese restaurant from a good one is the barbequed roast meats char siu and siu yuk, grilled marinated pork and pork belly with perfectly cooked cracklings. “A good char siu depends on the meat,” explains Ho. “It has to be precisely right, not too lean and not too fatty, which can make it seem greasy and overly rich. I’ve tried all kinds of pork from

各 式 粤 式 美 馔 由 行 政 总 厨 何 沛 镛 Sammy 呈现，烹调方式除了融合当地特色之外， 也符合健康饮食及均衡口味等当代饮食潮 流。主厨的菜单随季节调整，采用当季独 有的食材入菜。 他表示 ： 「我们寻遍世界各 个角落，不管距离远近，非要找到最时令 的食材不可。一定要不断品尝和试新的食 材，到不同地方吸收新知识并挖掘当地最

Simmered Garoupa Filet with Egg White in Supreme Chicken Broth 浓鸡汤珍珠泡老虎斑球

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Sautéed Lobster with Egg White and Fresh Milk

ibérico to Kurobuta, but I really prefer Chinese pork farmed sustainably with plenty of care and the right diet.

“We make our own marinade for barbeque roasts, and since recipes differ from chef to chef, it’s our unique blend that makes the distinctive difference in our final flavors.”

An excellent way to experience Ho’s mastery of flavor is by ordering his Premium Selection, which includes barbeque pork with honey, chilled enoki mushrooms, Cordyceps flower with sesame oil, and a hint of Sichuan peppers.

The selection of dim sum highlights xiaolongbao, tasty grenades in a combination of three steamed Shanghainese dumplings filled with a rich pork-based broth, and also includes deep-fried shredded turnip stuffed with cheese and a custard bun in the form of a mushroom dusted off with cocoa.

The wok-fried wagyu beef with rice

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crackers, another of Ho’s modern renditions, is served with pine nuts that intriguingly complement the perfectly done slices of juicy meat.

Another hallmark of a first-rate Cantonese restaurant is its selection of double-boiled soups, and Ho has a menu of nine varieties.

“All of them are prepared without MSG and with less salt,” he says. “I’d recommend the double-boiled fish head soup with tian ma and Ligusticum and the braised spinach soup with crab meat if you really love authentic Cantonese flavors.”

One of Wing Lei Palace’s well-known signature dishes is the simmered garoupa fillet with egg white in supreme chicken broth, a luxurious specialty inspired by Chinese imperial cuisine. The rich golden bouillon was traditionally made with chicken fat, but in Ho’s contemporary take, its yellow hue comes from carrots. It yields the classic rich color

and flavor from hours of slow cooking on the stove, but with a much lower fat content.

“This dish is very labor-intensive,” says Ho. “Historically, it was served to royalty and government officials starting in the Qing Dynasty, and the recipe is a happy marriage of both Northern and Southern cuisines.

The egg white is added to the broth in broad strokes at very high heat. Delicate ‘pearls’ of egg white are formed that give the dish its beautiful appearance to the eyes and its silky texture in the mouth.”

In collaboration with his team, Ho plans to continually evolve the menu over time, adding traditional dishes that have been updated with his modern approach. Ho’s innovative outlook extends to desserts as well. The classic deep-fried sesame ball filled with custard is topped with bird’s nest, giving its crispy sweetness an extra dimension of sumptuous mouthfeel.

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

大良牛乳炒龙虾球

ROGER DAVIS (PRIVATE DINING ROOM)

↑↑

↑

Executive Chef Sammy Ho

An Array of Dim Sum

Private Dining Room

行政总厨何沛镛

精选点心

贵宾厅

棒的东西。新发现也常是我创作新菜的灵 感来源。 」 Sammy 有数十年的烹调历练，来永利 宫前曾於多家知名中餐厅工作，带领团队摘 下米其林星星。他自七岁开始做菜，长时间 待在厨房，从母亲身上习得一身好厨艺。他 的祖父曾经营餐厅，目前也是家族中唯一循 着前人脚步、踏上餐饮之路的成员。 主厨身经百战，从揉制面条、烘焙到点 心等领域通通难不倒他，一路走来，Sammy 下了许多功夫去学习靠自己煮出各种佳肴 。 他笑着说 ： 「从一切都不懂到现在什么都学 会，要骗我已经不太可能了。即使算不上精 通每个中菜流派，但我知道菜要怎么做、外 观及味道到什么程度才叫完美。 」粤式烧腊 「叉烧」以及调味得宜、皮脆肉嫩的「烧肉」 可说是粤菜馆的试金石，一吃就知道餐厅是 否达一流水准。主厨说 ： 「肉是决定叉烧好 坏的关键，一定要刚刚好，不能过瘦，太肥 的话则会太油或口感过于丰厚。从伊比利猪 到鹿儿岛黑豚，主厨尝试各种猪肉后，最终

选择以环境可持续方式牧养的中国猪，每一 只都经过悉心照料、营养得当。 」 「我们也自制烧烤汁，正因每个厨师做 出来的口味有所不同，独家配方让最后的 出品带有只此一家的特殊风味。」 想见识主厨炉火纯青的厨艺，点他推 荐招牌菜就对了，如「蜜汁叉烧」， 「凉拌 金菇鲜虫草花」、些许四川花椒让菜式更添 风味层次。精美点心系列则以「运转乾坤」 为亮点，三款独特的小笼包颗颗饱满、鲜 美肉汁在嘴里流动，美味无穷。另外还有 炸萝卜丝配上起司的「藕断丝连」，及做成 香菇形状再洒上可可粉的特色奶黄包。「脆 香和牛粒」则能展示主厨的新式现代创意， 煎到恰到好处的和牛粒搭配松子，其味道 相当契合，有如天作之合。 一流粤菜馆绝对少不了的上佳炖汤品， 菜单随时令提供九款选择。主厨说 ： 「汤羹 烹煮过程不加味精，而且少盐。想一尝正 统广东口味的客人，我个人推荐「天麻川 芎鱼头汤」及「生拆蟹肉菜苗羹」，也是不

错的选择。」永利宫另一道奢华的招牌菜色 「浓鸡汤珍珠泡老虎斑球」的汤汁受中国宫 廷菜启发，以顶级浓汤细火慢炖，一般金 黄色的丰醇汤底皆用鸡肉脂肪熬煮，但主 厨改用现代烹煮方法，加以红萝卜素，数 小时慢火煮出同样的丰美金黄色泽及口感， 脂肪含量却大大减少。 主厨说道 ： 「这道菜费时费力，从清朝 开始，为上呈皇家贵族及政府官员的宫廷 菜。作法兼具北方及南方两地菜色之长， 锅炉极高温下倒入蛋白，点点细致的珍珠 蛋白慢慢浮出，不仅为菜式大大增色，柔 滑口感也让人惊艳。」 Sammy 也和其团队保持密切合作，计 划陆续调整菜单，增加改良版的传统粤菜。 甜点当然也少不了 Sammy 的创意，经 典的奶黄馅芝麻球覆上燕窝，于酥脆香甜 的味道中掺入一丝奢侈的口感。 Reservations 订座热线: +853 8889 3663 wynnpalace.com island dining

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PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

澳门路氹永利皇宫：视觉味蕾盛宴

Steak and Spectacle at Wynn Palace Cotai

SW Steakhouse in the newly opened Wynn Palace Cotai delivers an incomparable blend of exceptional food and exciting entertainment.

The marks of founder Steve Wynn’s driving passions are all over SW Steakhouse at Wynn Palace Cotai. The clean lines and restrained elegance of the décor, with its muted palette of warm woods and sleek chrome and its lofty ceiling spangled with dozens of champagne-colored glass teardrops, speak of a desire to set the perfect mood for a memorable dining experience § A quiet side bar offers a place to lounge luxuriously with before- or after-dinner drinks, including some of America’s renowned bourbons from cult distilleries like Willett and Old Rip Van Winkle. The bartender may suggest one of the barrel-aged cocktails made in-house and rested in American oak. Digestives include a range of fine Cognacs and Armagnacs.

§ 踏进路氹全新

度假村，永利皇宮的永利扒房，便可感受创办人史提芬永利先生的创新热情理 念，室内装潢线条俐落，装饰逸散着内敛的优雅贵气，温婉木质呈现柔和色 调。时髦的挑高天花板点洒着数百颗香槟色的泪珠玻璃粒，仿佛述说着新开幕 的永利皇宫藉此完美氛围为宾客营造难忘用餐体验的愿望。侧边静谧的酒吧空 间可供宾客休憩并享受奢华的餐前和餐后饮品，例如其中产自美国威利特和老 瑞普凡恩克尔酒厂等知名波本威士忌。

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BARBARA KRAFT (2)

AT THE FAR END OF THE RESTAURANT, an intriguing stage stands empty, promising performances that are just waiting to be revealed. Every thirty minutes, the lights in the dining room fade and one in a series of six quirky vignettes begins to unfold onstage.

Themed around a waking dream, the presentations are a combination of unique visual animation, special effects, and customized

soundtracks. A clear crowd favorite is “If You Could See Her through My Eyes,” featuring a gorilla and her true love and accompanied by the authentic sounds of the Broadway musical Cabaret with Joel Grey. The performances, which are a creative collaboration between Steve Wynn and Michael Curry, epitomize their shared life interests in food, music, and entertainment.

“The added element of the animated show brings a whole new dimension to our dining experience,” says Executive Chef Khan Danis.

“And it most definitely stimulates dinner conversation.” At regular intervals the room suddenly goes quiet, but when the lights come up, the place is filled with smiling faces and lively chatter, a refreshing change from the typical dim and somber steakhouse ambience.

餐厅最远处，神秘舞台隐藏着即将上场的 精彩表演。每三十分钟，用餐区的灯光便 悠悠转暗，舞台上随即展出六幕剧场表演。 主题围绕「清醒的梦境」，呈现方式结合独 特视觉动画、特效，以及为此系列表演特 制的配乐。最受观众青睐的显然是「If You Could See Her through My Eyes 如 果 你 能 看到我眼中的她」，主角是一只猩猩与她的 挚爱，搭配 Joel Grey 参与的百老汇经典音 乐剧「Cabaret」的音乐。这些表演是史提 芬永利先生和导演 Michael Curry 的创意合 作，无疑是他们对美食、音乐、娱乐等共 同兴趣的极致体现。

行 政 总 厨 Khan Danis 说 ： 「动画表演 增添的元素为用餐体验带来了全新体验， 无意中引发宾客间更多对话交流。」每间隔 一段固定时间，餐厅便突然安静下来，等 到灯光再次亮起，室内再次充满着笑容与 热闹的交谈声，与向来昏暗、肃穆的牛扒 房气氛截然不同。 在迷你剧场和用餐过程之间，宾客可 从位于舞台右边的视窗一探忙碌厨房的工 作情况。Khan 便在这里，尽情施展他在澳 洲和新西兰上乘食府累积数十年的真功夫。 Khan 娓娓道来永利扒房的基本理念 ： 「菜单很单纯，我们的重点在于供应上等

的 肉 类 和 绝 对 新 鲜 的 水 产。 我 们 精 选 来 自世界各地的谷饲和草饲牛肉，包括美国 USDA 顶级牛排、经认证的日本和牛和澳 洲 Rangers Valley 牧场谷饲黑安格斯牛排。」 针对不喜肉类的宾客，餐单也提供了 各式各样的意大利面和其他精选水产选择， 例如「SW 精选渔获」拼盘、使用孟加拉湾 大虾而制的「虾喀嗲」、丰富浓郁的「海鲜 汤」或「阿拉斯加蟹饼佐以香芹菜蛋黄酱」 等前菜。 「我们有个极受欢迎、非常独特的卖点， 就是盛载龙虾的餐车会在用餐区穿梭，到 宾客桌边服务。」Khan 说。「我们的龙虾来 island dining

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Dry-Aged Bone-In Rib Eye Rangers Valley Grain-Fed Black Angus, Glen Innes 风干连骨肉眼牛扒

Between mini-spectacles, at stage right, a clandestine tinted window offers views into the working kitchen where the restaurant’s main event takes place. That’s where Danis can be glimpsed putting into play his decades of experience gained at top venues in Australia and New Zealand. “The menu is simple,” he says, explicating the fundamental concept behind SW. “Our focus is on premium meats and the freshest of seafood.

We have a beautiful range and selection of grain-fed and grass-fed animals from around the world, including American USDA prime steaks, certified Japanese wagyu, and exclusive Australian Rangers Valley Black Market beef.

For those who don’t style themselves carnivores, there are plenty of pastas and other options on the menu, besides, of course, the abundant wealth of seafood selections, such as the brimming SW Seafood Spectacular platter, the shrimp cocktail with giant

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prawns from Bengal Bay, the rich and dense seafood soup, or the hot starter of Alaskan king crab cake with celeriac rémoulade.

“One of our really popular and unique features is the live lobster cart that makes its way around the dining room and serves tableside,” says Danis. “We source lobsters from both Maine and Australia, and our team here works with fishermen throughout the Pacific to provide the very freshest seafood available, line caught, packed and shipped to Macau within hours. Much of our product comes all the way from New Zealand and the Hauraki Gulf.”

Danis frequently recommends the raw sliced line caught Hauraki Gulf snapper with preserved lemon salsa, pistachio, parsley and mint. “The fish are line-caught so that the fishermen can better ensure their freshness and quality. You can’t get fresher fish anywhere.” Other highlights on the

seafood menu include the scorpion fish, the John Dory, and the hapuku, a type of wreckfish, all of them coming from wild fisheries in the region.

One of the most popular aspects of dining at SW is the freedom guests have in designing their own meals from the wide range of sides on offer. For example, Danis recommends the perennially favored roasted lobster accompanied by choices that include salads, black truffle creamed corn, and even the American staple of mac ’n cheese. “We’ve got a variety of sauces to accompany every dish,” he says, “from salsa verde and herb butter to olive oil and lemon, all kinds of tastes to please anyone’s palate. The ingredients are the stars and they speak for themselves – we want to enhance the experience rather than cover the natural flavors.”

Perhaps Danis’s versatile culinary expertise becomes most apparent on the grill. His

SW Seafood Spectacular: Lobster, Alaskan King Crab Legs, Jumbo Shrimp, Seasonal Clams, Oysters, Scallops

Executive Chef Khan Danis 行政总厨郑志光

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

SW 精选海鮮：龙虾，帝王蟹脚，珍宝大虾，季节贝类，生蚝和带子

illustrious portfolio of extensive experience at some of the top bars and grills of Australia and New Zealand has perfected his skills in cooking with the best cuts of meat over wood fires and open pits and with densewood fuels. “We have an American Range broiler here that achieves scorchingly high heat, and we take particular care in preparing our own seasonings. We also have an aging room in-house and a program for aging our meats for between fourteen and forty-five days in special cabinets to produce a range of distinct flavors.”

With seafood that is as unique as the meats, Danis advises that for a fully immersive SW Steakhouse experience, one should have the best of both worlds, perhaps first ordering something savory from the sea before moving on to a tender grass-fed cut from the grill. For those who aren’t dining alone, why not simply come together and share?

自缅因州和澳洲，直接向许多太平洋的 渔民取货，由他们供应手边最新鲜的矶 钓海产，捕获后经过包装，在数小时内 运抵澳门。我们也有不少产品远从新西 兰豪拉基湾来。」 「矶钓新西兰豪拉基湾鲜鱼刺身薄片 佐柠檬莎莎，开心果，香菜，薄荷」是 Khan 经常推荐的菜式，「渔夫捕获的海 产绝对再新鲜不过。」其他海鲜菜单上值 得推荐的，还有 鮋 鱼、鲂鱼、石斑鱼， 全都来自区内的野外渔场。 永利扒房最受欢迎的另一项特色， 就是宾客可以在琳琅满目的配菜中自由 设计自己的餐点，例如 Khan 就推荐长 年高人气的烤龙虾，搭配沙律、黑松露 奶油粟米，甚至美式主食起司通心面等 等。他说 ： 「我们有非常多种酱料搭配每 道菜肴，青酱、香草酱、橄榄油、柠檬汁， 多种口味定能满足所有人的味蕾。但食 材才是重点，宾客一吃就知道，酱汁的 作用是提升主菜风味，而不是掩盖掉天

然鲜味。」Khan 精湛多元的烹饪专长在 烧烤上尤其发挥得淋漓尽致。他在澳洲 和新西兰数家高级餐厅累积出辉煌的资 历，让他的厨艺至臻完美，切得棱角分 明的肉排放在柴火上炙烤，使用致密木 材起火的露天烤炉更是他的强项。 「 我 们 有 一 个 American Range 的 高 端烤炉，可达非常高的温度。独家调味 料也经过我们悉心调制。另外我们还有 一个自家熟成室，能经过设定，让肉在 特殊柜子里熟成 14 到 45 天，创造出多 种独特风味。」 放眼望去，闪闪发光的海鲜与牛扒 同样耀眼。Khan 说，若要完全尽享永利 扒房的顶级飨宴，宾客不妨两种都尝试， 可以先点鲜美的海鲜，再品尝软嫩的草 饲牛。若是多人前来，何不干脆多点些 菜与亲友共享呢？ Reservations 订座热线: +853 8889 3663 wynnpalace.com island dining

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老奶奶的抱罗粉

Grandmother’s No odles At Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort, Mamie Chen and David Hartung discover the ancient and authentic delicacies of Hainan.

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A discovery platter of the four most famous dishes in Hainan cuisine (clockwise from upper left) Hele crabs, valued for their unusually high quantity of rich, golden roe, are fished from an east-coast estuary near the town of Hele, where the brackish, nutrient-rich water produces crabs with finely textured, delicately sweet meat.

Free-range Dongshan lambs graze on wild shrubs and vegetation covering the mountain ridges, especially favoring the aromatic, herb-scented Zhegu tea plant, which results in mild, fresh-flavored meat. The area’s year-round balmy climate also contributes to the meat’s uniquely even fat distribution.

Wenchang chickens, the inspiration for the widespread Hainanese dish of chicken rice, are characterized by thin yellow skin and meltingly tender meat that is best prepared delicately poached with ginger and spring onion to preserve its subtle natural flavor and texture.

Jiaji ducks, known internationally as Muscovy ducks, have glossy feathers, yellow beaks and feet, and distinctively red face masks. Leaner and more deeply flavored than other breeds, these birds are force-fed local grains and rice by the Jiaji farmers in a generations-old process similar to the gavage for foie gras, resulting in supremely tender and juicy meat.

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大方盘上陈列着海南四大名菜，等着饕客来品尝。( 从 左上开始顺时针，分别为 ) ： 和乐蟹，以金黄油亮的膏脂而价值不菲。新鲜捕获 自近和乐镇的东海岸河口，当地有著半咸淡海水，且营养 成分丰富，宝贵天然资源造就和乐蟹如此美味鲜甜的肉质。 东山羊，在东山岭天然放牧的羊只以覆盖山脊的灌 木与植被为食，它们尤其偏好散发芳香、有药草味的鹧鸪 茶叶，羊只因而有着润滑且不膻的肉质。此地区气候终年 温和，适合饲养，也是让羊肉油脂均匀分布的原因之一。 文昌鸡，亦即用于遍布各地的海南鸡饭的原材料。 它的特色是皮黄而薄，嫩肉入口即化，最佳烹调法是与 姜和青葱一起悉心熬煮，以保存其幽微的天然风味和滑 嫩肉质。 嘉积鸭，国际上的正式名称为疣鼻栖鸭，有着发亮 的羽毛、黄色的喙和脚，脸上看似带着一个识别度极高 的红色面罩。比起其他的鸭品种，此鸭的肉更为精实， 因此深受大众喜爱。这些鸭只由嘉积镇的鸭农以数代流 传下来的饲养，强制喂食当地谷类和稻米，类似生产鹅 肝的填喂法，能让肉质成品的肉质极度软嫩多汁。

TASTING DESTINATION

AN

EIGHTY-YEAR-OLD

GRANDMOTHER

wakes up at three in the morning to begin making the time-honored namesake product of her small village, Baoluo, in the northeastern corner of the island province of Hainan.

With hopes of selling them in the market that day, she starts with milled rice picked from her family’s paddies and adds water sourced from a nearby mountain spring.

Using a technique fine-tuned over ages, she painstakingly creates an authentic expression of Baoluo noodles, with their unique flavor and texture that cannot be replicated by mass production.

This has been her life’s work, an oftentimes lonely occupation – the younger generation in recent years has shown little interest in learning the art and technique of handmade Baoluo noodles. But change has been in the air since Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort opened six months ago with Executive Chef Adam Schlipf in charge of food and beverage operations. Now, two or three times a week, a sizable share of her freshly made noodles is delivered to Sofitel – and to meet the increased demand, her entire family has gotten involved.

Schlipf seems delighted with the role he has played in supporting local traditions. “We need to help the younger generation see the financial benefit in staying in the villages and farms,” he says, “or else the local traditions are going to be washed away, which would be a true shame.”

Including local cuisine on his menus was one of Schlipf ’s goals from the moment he arrived in Hainan to finalize kitchen designs and food outlet concepts two years before the resort opened. “I think it’s very important not only to recognize but also to respect the local cuisine and products,” he says. “But I wanted it to be really authentic, and I wasn’t confident early on that I’d be able to do justice to the history and heritage behind the dishes.”

With the hiring of his Chinese executive sous chef and local staff from the

“I think it’s very important not

only to recognize but also to respect the local cuisine and products.

有一点我觉得十分重要, 就是不仅要认识当地 小吃和产物, 还要尊重它们。” EXECUTIVE CHEF ADAM SCHLIPF

surrounding farming communities, however, things progressed quickly. “The staff would tell me about a special place and I’d want to check it out immediately,” he recalls. “It was important to go to the small villages and farms out in the middle of nowhere, where they’re still steeped in tradition, and to speak to these older generations about how they do everything by hand, like the grandmother with her noodles.”

Sofitel’s Hainan Baoluo noodles are served as authentically as possible, with only minor adjustments like leaner meats to reduce the amount of fat in the broth.

Schlipf has also found ways to bring new

twists to traditional flavors, such as using pickled rind and Hainan yellow lantern chili sauce with local calamansi juice in place of vinegar to create a spicy chutney.

From Sofitel’s regional Chinese restaurant, Hainan Pearl, to Cuisines, its all-day international dining concept, there are currently more than twenty representations of Hainan flavors and ingredients on the menus. But Schlipf is eager to keep on going.

“I’ve taken about fifteen to twenty trips around the island so far,” he says, “but once the business is more settled and the team is stronger, I want to get out at least once a month. There’s so much more to explore!” iI s l a n d d i n i n g

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Humble noodle soup takes on near-cult status in Hainan, where countless villages boast their own variations that are lustily consumed at every occasion – as a breakfast or a snack, during festivals, or with honored guests. At Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort, a made-to-order noodle bar features many of Hainan’s famous varieties: Baoluo noodles (unpictured): A savory broth with equal measure of salty, sweet, and sour – along with a bonus kick of spicy – Baoluo noodle soup hits most every taste sensation on the tongue. It’s a traditional dish that dates back to the Ming dynasty, comprising a mélange of ingredients that include aged beef, lean pork, peanuts, dried squid, bamboo shoots, and pickled vegetables.

Lingshui sour rice noodles, smooth and threadlike in form, trace back to the Qing dynasty and are produced on the southeast coast of Hainan. Their tangy broth is sweetened by a tomato and garlic sauce and may often be further seasoned with Hainan yellow lantern chili sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, and chopped chives. Toppings include seafood specialties like fish cakes, small dried fish, and dried squid.

The people of Hou’an have their own version of a seafood-based vermicelli soup that traces back to the Song dynasty. Legend tells of a young hero who saved the village from a gang of troublemakers and was later served a bowl of Hou’an noodle soup by a young village girl as a token of gratitude as well as an expression of affection. 粉面在海南大受喜爱，不计其数的乡镇均宣 称自己出产的，就是无论在早餐、当点心、 节庆、宴客等各种场合都吃得到的那种汤面。 三亚理文索菲特酒店现点现做的面点吧便推 出了众多海南知名的面类 ： 抱罗粉 ：肉汤味道浓郁，等量的咸、甜、 酸之外还带一点辣，抱罗汤粉可说是冲击了 舌头上所有味觉感官。这道传统料理可追溯 自明朝，食材五花八门，包括牛肉、猪瘦肉、 花生、鱿鱼丝、竹笋、酸菜。 细长的陵水酸粉最早见于清朝，产于海 南岛东南海岸。味道强烈的汤汁用番茄和大 蒜增添甜味，亦经常以海南黄灯笼辣酱、醋、 麻油、葱末调味，摆在顶上的佐料包括鱼板、 小鱼干、鱿鱼丝等海鲜特产。 后安镇民则有自己的海鲜米粉，起源于 宋朝。传说当年一位年轻有为的英雄为小镇 抵御惹事生非的黑道，有一位后安镇的年轻 女孩便为他送上一碗后安汤面，表达感谢和 爱意。

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TASTING DESTINATION

It was important to go to the small villages and farms out

in the middle of nowhere, where they’re still steeped in tradition,

and to speak to these older generations.

走访那些前不着村、后不着店的小镇和农田非常重要 , 这些地方仍浸淫在传统之中。

海南岛东北角的抱罗镇，一位高龄八旬的 老奶奶凌晨三点起床，开始制作与小镇同 名、历久不衰的知名小吃。她先拣选自家 稻田生产的白米，倒进自附近山丘取回的 泉水，希望制成后能当天拿到市场去卖。 老奶奶的制作技艺经过长期演变流传，抱 罗粉在她奋力的手中以最道地的模样展现 出来，独特的味道和质感，绝非量产的面 条所能比拟。 这是老奶奶长年的工作，也是一门孤 独的行业，近年来，年轻世代对学习手工 制作抱罗粉这项技艺兴趣缺乏，但自从六 个月前三亚理文索菲特酒店开幕、并由行 政 主 厨 Adam Schlipf 统 筹 餐 饮 营 运 以 来， 一切已悄然改变。现在每周两到三次，老 奶奶新鲜制作的抱罗粉有一大部分会运送 到三亚理文索菲特酒店，而为了满足渐增 的需求，她整个家庭都参与制粉工作。 对于能在支持当地传统上贡献一己之 力，主厨 Adam 似乎感到很欣慰。 他说： 「我 们有必要帮助年轻世代发现留在镇上和田 里的经济好处。不然当地传统会逐渐凋零， 这会很可惜。」 两年前三亚理文索菲特酒店尚未开幕 时，Adam 便来到海南负责完成最终的厨房 设计和实现饮食区的构想，将当地小吃纳 入菜单便是他的目标之一。他说 ： 「有一点 我觉得十分重要，就是不仅要认识当地小

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吃和产物，还要尊重它们。但我希望这些 小吃要非常道地，一开始我并没有信心能 充分展现出这些料理背后代表的历史和传 承意义。」 但自从他延揽了中国籍副主厨，并招 聘来自附近农家的在地员工后，目标进度 便突飞猛进。「员工会告诉我某个特别的 地方，我就会想马上去看。」他边回忆边说 道， 「走访那些前不着村、后不着店的小镇 和农田非常重要 , 这些地方仍浸淫在传统 之中，然后我会跟老一辈聊聊他们如何手 工制作各种事物，就像那位老奶奶的抱罗 粉一样。」 三亚理文索菲特酒店的海南抱罗粉尽 可能贴近原汁原味，仅做了细微调整，例 如选用较瘦的肉，以减少汤里的油脂。主 厨 Adam 亦找到了为传统风味注入新生命 的方法，例如使用腌渍果皮和海南黄灯笼 辣酱，并以在地酸柑汁取代醋，创造出特 制酸辣酱。 从三亚理文索菲特酒店的中式餐厅「海 南明珠」 ，到全天候供应寰宇美馔的「全日 制餐厅」，目前菜单上有超过二十种代表海 南的风味和食材，但主厨 Adam 仍热衷于 不断探索。他说 ： 「目前我已围绕岛上旅行 过 15 到 20 次，等业务比较稳定、团队比 较坚实了，我希望一个月至少出游一次， 还有好多等着我去发掘呢！」

On an island where coconuts are so plentiful that roadside vendors sell fresh young ones for less than the price of a bottle of water, it comes as no surprise that the ubiquitous fruit would feature in a beloved traditional Hainanese snack. Coconut rice, whimsically known as “coconut boat” because of its ultimate shape, is made by lopping the top off a fragrant coconut, adding a portion of glutinous sticky rice to the coconut water inside, and steaming it whole for eight hours. Then the hard outer shell is carefully shaved off and the remaining coconut meat and rice are sliced into bite-size wedges.

这座岛上盛产椰子，路边摊贩卖的新鲜椰子 价格比一瓶水还便宜，这无所不在的水果会 成为海南受欢迎的传统零食也就不足为奇了。 椰子饭，或根据最终形状而命名的更响亮名 称「椰子船」 ，做法是先将一颗香甜椰子的顶 端削去，放进一部分糯米在椰子水里，蒸上 整整八小时，再将坚硬的外壳仔细刮除，中 心剩下的椰肉和糯米再切成一片片一口大小 的楔型点心。

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PHOTO ESSAY

无「屿」伦比

An Island Like No Other Photographer David Hartung and writer Mark Hammons experience a life without limits on the Fijian island of Laucala.

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The buoyant Fiji spirit makes its

first appearance even before visitors arrive at the customs counter in Nadi International Airport. Three musicians clad in floral shirts and garlands of frangipane appear unexpectedly in a foyer just ahead of immigration, singing an infectious traditional Fiji song of welcome, “Bula Maleya”:

Drums of the islands, you're beating in my heart, You're with me no matter where I roam.

If ever I wander, if ever we're apart, I know that you will lead me home.

There’s a brief moment of befuddlement as travel-weary visitors come upon the surreal scene: How did this boisterous band get into the airport? Is security going to show up and scuttle them away? But the guitarists don’t look the least bit worried, and just continue on singing and swaying and smiling.

Fiji has been called the happiest place on earth, and after landing in Nadi, a fortunate few will board a six-seat King Air B200 to whisk them to the center of the happiness sun, a private island with an almost mythical reputation – Laucala.

Modern Laucala is the vision of Dietrich Mateschitz, founder of Red Bull. After buying the island in 2003, he spent the next five years redeveloping it from the ground up with the goal – now fully realized – of creating one of the world’s most celebrated and exclusive island resorts.

The spectacular final result serves first and foremost as personal retreat for Mateschitz, who often travels to Laucala in August with friends. His efforts to elevate the island’s operations are imbued with the same combination of dogged confidence that kept him going when early market research panned the taste of his signature caffeinated creation. He ignored his skeptics to forge on with Red Bull, and in 2015 global sales topped USD6.6 billion.

With more than three hundred and fifty on staff, Laucala has only twenty-five villas and a maximum occupancy of eighty, although the numbers are often far fewer.

The villas are scattered across the north coast of the island, each in its own secluded locale and named after a natural element island dining

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that identifies its surrounding environment, such as Nuku (sand), Ua (tides), Bebe (butterflies), Vonu (turtles), Veikau ( jungle), and Vitia (seagrass).

L a u c a l a i s n’t fo r eve r yo n e. O n e bedroom villas start at USD 6,000 a night, and rates escalate rapidly to USD44,000 for the fabulous Hilltop Estate. Guests range from heads of state to Hollywood celebrities to Saudi royalty, but they all come for the same rare combination of deep privacy and boundless freedom. Days can go by without interacting with another guest, and the experience of living on the island is almost completely absent of practical encumbrances.

When hungry, a guest needn’t wonder about which restaurant may be open or whether a table might be available: all of the restaurants and bars are always open and the staff are waiting with a smile for your arrival, whether it is tonight, tomorrow morning, or next week. When finished, there is no need to sign a bill – guests simply walk out and board their private golf buggy before coasting off to their next destination.

Laucala's five bars and restaurants are all under the oversight of Executive Chef Anthony Healy. Healy perfected his skills in the fine dining environments of Paris and London but is now immersed in the island’s ethos of sustainability. He leads his team as they go free diving for lobsters, harvest local fish species with a speargun, incubate their own eggs for three breeds of chicken, and hand-pollinate an orchard of fifty vanilla vines with a toothpick. Guests always ask about why the toothpicks are needed – it turns out that the European bees on the island are too fat to naturally pollinate the vanilla flowers. The island's farm has three

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View of Seagrass Bay from Rock Lounge

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← The Plantation House → Traditional Fijian Musicians 斐济传统音乐家 →→ Executive Chef Anthony Healy ↘ Golf Course Supervisor Richard Valentine ↘↘ Cultural Manager Ratu Meli

hydroponic greenhouses, two for herbs and lettuce, one for tomatoes and capsicum. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and the greenhouses help to strengthen plants before they are planted outside to face the tropical elements.

At the Plantation House, an elegant colonial-style mansion, Healy creates a spectacular nine-course degustation menu that changes – and dazzles – every evening. But his touch also shines through in simple details like the richness of the morning croissants and the restrained seasoning of the line-caught fish.

Healy’s team also harnesses Laucala’s natural bounty to make homemade jams, honey, and dips, making the most of whatever is freshest that day. “I can literally wake up in the morning here and say, ‘I think I’ll make this today,’” he says. “There’s been no other place in the world where I could say, we have this and so let’s make that . Zucchini flowers have a very short harvest window, but when they recently came into season I created a lobster mousse in zucchini flower petals, steaming it lightly before serving it with sauce vierge using our vine ripened tomatoes.

Baby cucumbers were also ripe, and so I pickled and

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chargrilled them until very black, and then served them with cured fish and frozen buttermilk. Light, refreshing dishes are perfect for this climate.”

Thai food aficionados make a regular trek to Seagrass, which is nested on a sloping, jungle-enclosed peninsula and run by chef Piak Sussadeewong, formerly of the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. The dramatic setting of Beach Bar makes it perfect for a casual lunch by the sand with dishes like kokoda , a traditional raw fish salad marinated with lemon, chili, and coconut, while the Rock Lounge offers cocktails using local Fiji rum and perfect views of Seagrass Bay. Once a week a traditional communal dinner is held inside the cultural village, offering Laucala guests a rare opportunity to rub elbows with their neighbors.

Starting early in the afternoon, Fiji cooks begin heating large rocks over a fire, which are then placed inside a deep earthen oven called a love . Banana stumps and leaves are first laid on top as a buffer, followed by the food and then more leaves on top to preserve the moisture. If pigs or goats are being cooked, stones are also placed inside.

Before the communal dinner is served, guests

gather for something called a kava ceremony. Kava, also called yaqona in Fiji, is a cousin of the pepper plant with mild narcotic properties, and it has long been a central element of Fijian culture. The village chief sits in the front of the room and mixes the kava with water to create that day’s blend.

When presented with the bowl, participants clap their hands once and say “bula ,” a word rich in meaning that can convey a sentiment of greeting, as well as of love, before drinking. The kava numbs the mouth and calms

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the spirit, and as locals drink and sing hour after hour, they become gradually ever more gentle and serene.

The remoteness of its geography and economics might conspire to give Laucala a sense of isolation, but this feeling is overcome by the island’s approachable design that takes nature itself as inspiration.

Rather than ostentatious or flamboyant, the defining aesthetic is relaxed and organic, with natural materials and flowing shapes. Roads wind across the island, not in

PHOTO ESSAY

geometrical straight lines, but in long, gentle arcs. Everyday objects are constructed with an unusual generosity: table lamps are crafted from twisted driftwood, enormous bathtubs are carved from a single stone, and expansive bathroom vanities are cut from a single tree.

Villa interiors mirror the environment around them, with upholstery patterned after the shapes of leaves and ferns, rugs that encompass the endless shades of the ocean’s blue, and giant jellyfish chandeliers that swim in the soft tropical breezes.

Mateschitz isn't the first business magnate to fall under Laucala’s spell. Malcolm Forbes was the world’s richest man when he bought the island in 1972, and he loved Laucala so much that he had his ashes buried in a small cemetery on a hill that is now surrounded by a tidy mango grove next to the golf course’s tenth hole. His tombstone reads, “When alive, he lived,” and visitors to Laucala all leave knowing that on these rare days surrounded by sand and sun and smiles, they too have lived.

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初抵斐济楠迪国际机场， 还没过海关就能感受到兴致 浓烈的当地精神，三位身着花衬衫、头戴花

的私人休憩天堂，常于 8 月呼朋引伴在洛卡

周，从无例外。用餐完毕，客人也不必担心

环的乐手现身入境审查前大厅，以斐济传统

拉度过愉快时光。他对事执着，自信不疑，

签付账单，只待退席并坐上私人高尔夫车前

迎宾曲「Bula Maleya」带动气氛 ：

即使初期市场调查显示，招牌提神饮料红牛

往下一目的地就好。

的味道被批的一文不值，他仍坚持不懈、大

洛卡拉现有的五家酒吧和餐馆皆由行政

力推动，让红牛在 2015 年全球销售创下 66

主厨 Anthony Healy 掌管，他曾于巴黎及伦

走到何处，有你作伴，

亿美元的亮眼纪录。Dietrich 也拿出同样的精

敦等地磨练厨艺，现在则致力把岛屿追求可

或迷失或分散，

神，让洛卡岛的经营运作全面升级。

持续发展的精神融合在菜色之中。他的团队

岛屿之鼓，敲击我心，

我知道你终将带我回家。

洛卡拉现有 25 栋度假村，超过 350 名员

可以潜水抓龙虾、渔枪猎捕鱼种、畜养三种

工，但入住率最高仅为八成。Villa 分散于岛

鸡只孵化特有的鸡蛋，甚或在园中亲手用牙

屿北岸，各自独立，以当地动植物或自然景观

签 替 50 株 香 草 授 粉 ；要 用 到 牙 签， 是 因 岛

团如何进到机场？警卫会否架走他们？吉他

命名， 如 Nuku ( 沙 )、 Ua ( 潮汐 )、 Bebe ( 蝴蝶 )、

上的欧洲种蜜蜂太胖，无法挤进花中吸花粉。

手脸上却不见慌张，继续随音乐摆动、微笑。

Vonu ( 海龟 )、Veikau ( 丛林 ) 及 Vitia ( 海草 )。

农地有三间水栽温室，两间专门培植草本植

游客舟车劳顿，看此画面难免疑惑 ：乐

斐济有全球最快乐的地方美称，在楠迪

然而洛卡拉的度假村要价不菲，一房的

下机后，几位令人艳羡的宾客可转搭 King Air

度假村每晚 6,000 美元起跳。若是坐拥美景

种植过程不使用任何杀虫剂或农药，植株于

B200 六人座私人飞机，直往快乐中心点－那

的山顶房一晚要价高达 44,000 美元。入住的

温室培育到一定成熟阶段才移种在自然环境

充满神秘色彩的私人岛屿洛卡拉而去。

客人从国家领袖、好莱坞名流到沙乌地皇室

下继续生长。

洛卡拉现今可说是红牛能量饮料集团 创 办 人 Dietrich Mateschitz 的 心 血 结 晶。 自

成员不等，来此就是希望享有极度隐私同时 能无拘无束的自由生活。

物及莴苣，另一间则生产番茄及辣椒属植物。

洛卡拉的顶级餐厅「The Plantation」提 供 Anthony 精心打造的九道菜套餐，菜色每

2003 年买下这座岛屿后，他花了 5 年时间打

若是饿了无须担心餐厅是否开门，因所

造一切，现已名列全球最专尚独家的顶级度

有餐厅及酒吧皆 24 小时无休，员工总面带笑

即便在简单的食物中也展露无遗，像早餐的

假岛之一。世外桃源般的度假村有如 Dietrich

容等待客人上门。 不论是当晚 、明早或是下

牛角面包，或海滩酒吧午餐所用的海钓鱼。

晚不同， 多元丰富令人心醉。主厨精湛的厨艺，

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This dish brings together two of the island’s next-door neighbors: farm and sea. “We very gently flatten out the breast of our free-range chicken,” explains Healy, “and then make a mousse from diver-caught crayfish, with large pieces of the tail meat folded in. The breast is wrapped around the crayfish and the whole thing is wrapped in chicken skin.”

Healy cooks the roll very lightly in a water bath by the sous vide method until almost done, then finishes it off in extremely hot oil for twenty seconds to blister and crisp the skin. “We serve this with a cauliflower and vanilla purée—both ingredients are grown on Laucala—and finish it with a tasty rich sauce of crayfish bisque reduced with chicken jus.” 此料理结合岛上两种最常见的景观：农场与海 洋。 Anthony解释道：「我们轻轻地将放牧 鸡胸肉摊平，再用潜水伕捕到的小龙虾制成慕 斯，里头包着大块的尾端肉。鸡胸肉包覆住龙虾 后，整个再用鸡皮包起来。」他用真空低温烹 调法将这道鸡肉龙虾卷极度小心地浸在水中直 到几乎熟透，然后在极高温热油里放置20秒， 让鸡皮起泡变脆。「我们摆盘时会搭配花椰菜 和香草酱，两种食材都产自洛卡拉，最后用鸡 汁浓缩龙虾浓汤而成的浓郁风味酱作结。」

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A meticulously tempered Valrhona chocolate sphere is painted with chocolate to replicate a coconut shell. Inside is layered 64 percent Manjari chocolate mousse, vanilla crémeux, coconut marshmallow, freeze-dried coconut, and coconut sorbet. The confection is finished with light Fijian coconut rum and pineapple coulis. 法芙娜巧克力球经过细致调温，涂 上巧克力制成椰壳的外型，里面 是64%孟加里巧克力慕斯、香草 奶油、椰子棉花糖、冷冻椰子乾 和椰子雪酪，斐济椰子兰姆和凤 梨汁则是这道甜点最后的亮点。

Six local Fijian rums, fresh pineapple juice, and fresh passion fruit are served iced in a poco grande glass with a whimsically convoluted fruit garnish. 六种斐济当地的朗姆酒，鲜菠萝汁 和新鲜百香果混和装在波可酒杯 中，伴以奇特的螺旋状水果装饰。

”We essentially start at the farm with our very-well-looked-after cattle,” says Healy. “Using a Limousine steer about thirty months of age, we make a very flavorful consommé by immersing the roasted bones in Laucala Island water from our own artesian spring.” The consommé sets into a sheet of workable gel, and the aged beef fillet is made into a tartare with shallots, capers, black pepper, spices, and fresh herbs.

The consommé sheet is then rolled around the tartare. To complete the dish, a gel is made with fresh egg yolks from the restaurant’s farm cooked at 64.5°C and blended with chardonnay vinegar. The tartare is accompanied by crisps of slowcooked beef tendons set in a terrine of suet, then shaved and fried.

Anthony说：「菜式重点从农场备 受悉心照料的牛只开始。我们使用 约30个月大的利木赞小阉牛，将炙 烤过的牛骨浸泡在洛卡拉岛自流温 泉水中，制作成味道浓郁的法式清 汤。」这道清汤凝固后呈现成胶状。 熟成牛肉片佐红葱头、酸豆、黑胡 椒、辛香料和新鲜药草制成塔塔， 再用清汤片将塔塔卷包覆。菜式的 最后一道工序，是用64.5°C的温度将 餐厅农场自产的新鲜蛋黄烹制成凝 胶状，然后与夏多内白酒醋混合。 佐塔塔的是以慢煮牛腱为馅的牛脂 冻派，切成片状后油炸的脆片。

“It’s a showpiece made from ice,” says Healy. “Each one is handmade and no two are ever the same. We serve it in the darkened restaurant with a light glowing in the middle, and inside is sorbet made with basil picked straight from our herb garden moments before use. ” Anthony说道：「这个精美成品是用冰做的，每 一个都是纯手工制，没有任两个是一模一样。我 们会在幽暗的餐厅里端上这道菜式，冰中心 点着烛光，里面是罗勒雪酪，由刚从药草 园里现摘下来的新鲜罗勒叶制作。」

A luscious and bracing dessert cocktail is made with coffee rum and white chocolate rum shaken together with local homemade vanilla ice cream and topped with Laucala coffee beans. 浓厚的鸡尾酒甜点由咖啡朗姆酒和混以当地自制香草冰淇淋一 起摇制的白巧克力朗姆酒制成，最上放以洛卡拉咖啡豆。

For this starter using all local ingredients, Chef Healy takes line caught coral trout and marinates it with mandarin oil, lime zest, fennel pollen and finishes it with very young nasturtium, leaves and petals. It's then placed inside a slice of watermelon radish and served in the sashimi tweezers. 这道前菜全是采用当地食材制成，主厨Anthony 把现钓石斑鱼 用上橘子油，青柠皮，茴香粉腌制，最后以金莲花，细叶和花 瓣作润饰。外层包以心内美萝卜片，以生鱼片镊子夹起享用。

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洛卡拉岛上作物丰富，主厨也物尽其用 制作成果酱、蜂蜜及沾酱。他形容 ： 「一早起 床我会说，今天我想做这个菜。但有时会即 兴地说『既然有这个，就来做那道菜吧』 ，别 无二处。 」 「西葫芦花收获期极短，恰逢当季我 便制作了龙虾慕斯菜式搭配西葫芦花瓣，先 轻蒸再浇上用当地熟藤蕃茄制成的酱汁。小 黄瓜也已熟成，经腌制后将其炭烤至深黑色， 搭配腌鱼和冷冻酪乳享用。洛卡拉的天气选 择这样清鲜香醇的料理真是再适合不过了。 」 「Seagrass」坐落在与世隔绝丛林半岛的 斜 坡 上， 由 主 厨 Piak Sussadeewong 主 理， 他曾工作于曼谷文华东方酒店。泰式料理迷 为了亲尝美食，不惜跋涉一番。坐拥得天独 厚的位置，宾客可在沙岸边的「Beach Bar」 享用惬意午餐，品尝特色菜，如 kokoda，一 道经柠檬、红辣椒和新鲜椰肉腌制的传统生 鱼片沙拉菜色。而「Rock Lounge」则供应各 种特式鸡尾酒，全由斐济当地的朗姆酒特调 而成，味道如同 Seagrass 海湾的无敌景致一 般诱人。 传统的共膳晚餐于岛上文化村举行，是 客人能和邻居交流的难得机会。下午尚早， 斐济厨师们开始把大石头放火里烤，过火后 放进深地炉。炉上铺以香蕉干及蕉叶作为缓 冲，放上食物后叠上更多叶子以保留湿气不 流失。烹制野猪或山羊时，热石则直接放在 畜体中。 晚 餐 上 桌 前， 客 人 会 参 加 kava 仪 式。 kava 为椒类植物近亲，带有轻微麻醉成分， 在斐济文化中有不可取代的地位。村长坐在 厅内最前方，将 kava 与水混和，供当日饮用。 饮料上桌时，所有成员会拍手喊一声 bula， 表达大家的问候和爱等情感。kava 入口后嘴 会发麻，心灵逐渐平静。当地人把酒言欢、 开心唱歌，随着时间渐晚，渐复平静。 尽管地理及经济环境均远离现代文明， 让洛卡拉有种遗世独立之感，但一看到以当 地自然景观为灵感的各式设计，却又让人倍 感亲切，离群索居的感觉瞬间消弭。 度假村的设计以让人放松的有机自然元

Red Ginger

素为主，使用各种波浪形状和天然材料。岛 上的路一眼望去是长而顺的弧型，日常物件 也不容小觑 ：桌灯由漂流木雕刻而成、单颗

母吊灯则在热带微风中悠游轻拂。Mateschitz

旁是芒果园，座落于岛上高尔夫球场第十洞

巨石凿成大型浴缸，而浴室里的梳妆台则全

并非第一位拜倒于洛卡拉美景的商业大亨。

旁边。他的墓志铭写到 ： 「人生追求的是真正

由一棵树刻制做成。度假村的室内装潢以自

Malcolm Forbes 在 1972 年买下洛卡拉时名列

的活著。 」相信所有造访过洛卡拉的游客，在

然美景打造，家饰上有树叶及蕨类造型，地

全球富豪排行榜首位。他深爱洛卡拉，甚至

阳光和笑容的陪伴下度过如此美好时光，也

毯宛如围成一望无际的蓝色海洋，巨大的水

骨灰也长埋于岛上山丘的小型墓园，现在一

一定觉得人生无憾，夫复何求。 island dining

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海角轩

Beachfront Fresh

Sanya’s natural island beauty and an abundance of unequaled local ingredients make for a one-of-a-kind outdoor dining experience.

BY MAMIE CHEN

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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Lotus Stem 莲梗

Lotus roots, seeds, and leaves – stir-fried, deep-fried, boiled, dried and powdered, or stuffed and steamed – make frequent appearances in many regional Chinese cuisines. Less commonly seen are lotus stems, the slender young stalks just under the flower bud. With a tender-crisp texture and a pleasing, delicate flavor, they are equally delightful served raw, blanched, or lightly stir-fried.

Executive Sous Chef David Pooley slices lotus stems crosswise to reveal the charming wheel-like pattern created by the air canals that run the length of the stalks.

These little rotelle-like tidbits, together with a scattering of pink lotus petals and a few wisps of water spinach leaves, introduce a note of levity and color to the dish of pan-seared grouper.

莲根、莲子、莲叶不论煎、炒、汆烫、炸、晒乾后磨粉或 填酿后蒸，都是许多中国地区菜色中常见的食材与做法。 莲梗是位在花苞下方细长幼嫩的茎，比较少入菜。它的口 感又嫩又脆，味道细致讨喜，不论生吃、清焯、稍微轻炒 都十分美味。 行政副总厨 David Pooley 将莲梗横切成片，显现出 内里像车轮般有趣的切面，这些纹理是沿着整条茎纵走的 空气道。小小的、像意式车轮面的切片，撒上粉色莲花瓣 与几簇空心菜叶，为香煎石斑带入一股轻浮与艳丽。 island dining

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Hainan Yellow Lantern Chili 海南黄灯笼辣椒

Near the back wall of the Sanya No. 1 Market, mounds of crimpled bright yellow chilies fill one side of the stall. Big vats of variously aged and flavored chili sauces occupy the other. In the middle, vendors endlessly grind Hainan yellow lantern chilies together with fresh garlic, mixing up fresh batches of the island’s ubiquitous table condiment.

Guests are invited to explore flavors by savoring freshly shucked Australian Coffin Bay oysters with either local calamansi lime, sherry vinegar, or chili-enhanced ponzu. 靠近三亚第一市场的后方墙面，卷缩的金黄色辣椒在摊贩 的一边堆成一座小山，另一旁则摆满一大笼不同熟成、不 同味道的辣椒。中间的小贩不断将海南黄灯笼辣椒与新鲜 大蒜一起碾磨，混合出一批批在这座岛屿的餐桌上放眼可 见的新鲜调味料。 小贩还会邀请客人品尝搭配了当地酸桔，雪莉酒醋或 辣味柚子醋的新鲜去壳哥芬湾生蚝。

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Pumpkin 南瓜

Though pumpkins were originally native to North America, they have long been successfully cultivated on every continent except Antarctica. Since the late 1990s, China has been the world’s largest producer.

The pumpkin variety bred and farmed in Hainan appears to be closely related to American pie pumpkins. Smoother and rounder than the stereotypical, deep-ridged jack-o’-lantern varieties, Hainan pumpkins are characterized by sweeter, finer-textured flesh.

A serving board of crisp-skinned suckling pig, roasted potatoes and baby carrots, pumpkin purée, and rocket makes for an enticing mélange of textures and flavors. 南瓜本是北美原生种， 种植分布在除南极洲外的各大洲， 从 1990 年代末起，中国是世界最大的南瓜生产国，而 海南栽种的种类与美洲南瓜关系密切。这里的品种比印 象中用来做南瓜灯笼的南瓜更光滑圆润，瓜肉更甜，口 感更细腻。砧板上放著脆皮烘烤乳猪、烤马铃薯和烤胡 萝卜仔、南瓜泥、芝麻菜的美味拼盘，口感与味道令人 垂涎三尺。

ROLLICKING OCEAN WAVES roll onshore only steps away from the airy and elegant dining pavilion at Fresh, the signature al fresco grill at Mandarin Oriental, Sanya. Graceful wrought iron lanterns suspended from a central pergola sway in the warm sea breeze, and far above and beyond glitters an endless canopy of stars. At a handful of intimate candlelit tables, course after course of contemporary cuisine is impeccably served, spotlighting the freshest and finest of seafood and meats.

“When our hotel manager first arrived from another Mandarin Oriental property,” says Stuart Newbigging, Director of Culinary and Food and Beverage, “I brought him to Fresh and told him there is nowhere else like it in Sanya. He said there was nothing like it in Guangzhou either.” In fact, one would be hard-pressed to find anything like Fresh’s unique beachside grill and surrounding twelve-hectare resort anywhere in Greater China. Rivals simply can’t match the combination that Mandarin Oriental, Sanya, brings together: a spectacular natural setting on the shores of a nationally protected coral bay along with the professional finesse of an established leader in luxury hospitality and fine dining.

While taking full advantage of its dramatic natural locale, Fresh is otherwise consciously understated. The design and décor incorporate local volcanic rocks and casual wicker furniture. The waitstaff successfully balance friendliness, attentiveness, and discretion. The plating is at once playful and rustic. In lieu of ice, a cast-iron pot of frozen stones chills the fresh oysters. A weathered chopping board serves as a platter against which the autumnal tones of suckling pig and pumpkin purée make a bold visual contrast.

The food is decidedly influenced by modern Australian cuisine, coupling European techniques with Asian touches that coax the best from the fresh ingredients available at hand.

Lotus stems contribute an unexpected and satisfying crispness to the pan-seared grouper. Hainan yellow lantern chilies add significant heat to the ponzu that accompanies fresh oysters.

On a tropical island where seasonal produce is available year-round and fresh-caught seafood is just a snorkeldive away, Newbigging’s enviable challenge is to explore and discover all of its hidden bounties. “The chefs and I take a culinary tour of Hainan for a few days every year,” he says. “That’s how we discovered tree chickens and a lot of the mountain vegetables that aren’t well known and aren’t often seen in the markets. We’ll spot things at the farms that they might not showcase, but we keep questioning, and suddenly we’ve discovered something new we can use.” island dining

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Mango 芒果

Large and small, flat and round, oval, oblong, and S-shaped; vibrant yellow, deepest green, blushing red, and rosy pink: Hainan’s bursting pride in its lavish mango production is hardly bluster. Mango orchards proliferate all over the island, and in the spring local markets abound with the celebrated K i n g of F r u i t i n a l l va r i et i e s .

Lusciously aromatic and juicy, some are best appreciated freshly sliced on their own. Others – silky, sweet, and firm – are the perfect choice for salads. And better suited for chutneys are more fibrous varieties with a tangy sweetness.

Executive Pastry Chef Lucas Bonnaud seizes the tiny window of opportunity afforded by the two-week peak season for Hainan strawberries. He brings together an irresistible combination of flavors and textures by using strawberries and mangoes in multiple forms – fresh, freeze-dried, gel, marshmallow – and combining them with blueberries, candied chervil, and chocolate ganache.

Stuart Newbigging, Director of Culinary and Food and Beverage

浪潮汹涌推挤上岸，而离岸边几步之遥的位置就是三亚文华东方酒店的招牌户 外滨海餐厅 —— 海角轩。典雅的用餐凉亭舒爽宜人，中央凉棚上方悬挂着精致 的铁灯笼，温暖海风轻轻摇摆，远方穹苍中闪烁着无垠星斗。数张映着亲昵烛 光的餐桌上，一道道无懈可击的当代美馔，在在都是最新鲜上等的海鲜与肉类。 「我们驻店经理第一次从另一家文华东方 餐饮总监 Stuart Newbigging 说 ： 酒店过来时，我带他到海角轩，跟他说三亚再没有什么地方比得上这里，他十

有大有小、有扁有圆、卵形、长椭

分同意，且说就连在广州也找不到这种感觉。 」事实上，在中国其他地区也很难

圆形、S 形，金黄、深绿、通红、红润，

找到像海角轩如此别具一格的滨海海鲜餐厅，又得天独厚地享有广达 12 公顷的

海南以盛产芒果而自豪，绝对名不

度假村。1.2 公里绵延的珊瑚湾海滩贡献无敌天然美景，高档酒店餐饮业龙头为

虚传。岛上芒果园遍布，一到春季，

宾客演绎极致专业奢华，三亚文华东方酒店的竞争对手实在难以比拟。

市场便热烈欢庆多不胜数的「果王」

若非尽享绝佳天然位置的优势，海角轩其实刻意保持低调。餐厅设计与装

以各种姿态驾到。有些香甜多汁的

潢以当地火山岩搭配柳条家具，营造休闲氛围，餐厅服务态度既亲和、专注又

品种现切现吃最好，有些柔滑、甘

周到，摆盘趣味十足又朴实无华。鲜美的生蚝放在铁铸锅呈上，底下的冰石头

甜、结实的芒果最适合用来做沙拉，

能保持海鲜冰爽新鲜 ；斑驳的砧板用作大浅盘，盛装着流泄出秋季基调的乳猪

另有些纤维较多、带点发酵酸甜味

和南瓜泥，形成鲜明的视觉对比。

的则较适合做酸辣酱。 饼房厨师长 Lucas Bonnaud 把 握住海南短短两周的草莓盛产期，

海角轩主要供应各种现代澳洲美食，另受到欧式厨艺与亚洲风味的影响， 巧妙揉和当地的新鲜食材炮制出最完美的佳肴。莲梗为香煎石斑添加了令人意 外满足的爽脆感，海南黄灯笼辣酱则大大提升了佐新鲜生蚝柚子醋的辛辣口感。

以新鲜、冷冻干燥、制成果酱和棉

在这小岛上，一年四季都有时令农产品，只需浮潜就能捕获新鲜海鲜。

花糖般等不同形式而制的草莓和芒

Stuart 正在进行一项令人钦羡的挑战，就是探索这座岛上所有大自然隐藏的赠

果搭配，结合蓝莓、甜渍香芹、巧

礼。他说 ： 「我和厨师们每年会在海南岛上进行几天寻鲜之旅，我们就是这样发

克力甘纳许来制作甜点，组合有着

现了海南山鸡，和很多鲜为人知、市面少见的山间野菜。当在农家看见一些没

令人难以抗拒的口感和质地。

展示过的东西时，我们会一直问，谈话间就发现了可以利用的食材。 」

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The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Sanya 三亚文华东方酒店水疗谷

TASTING DESTINATION

Dr. Li, traditional Chinese medicine therapist

Master Hu, Shaolin kung fu expert

李银智李医师，传统中医师

冯振虎虎师傅，少林功夫大师

THE SPA AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SANYA, drawing inspiration from ancient Chinese traditions of health and wellness, is an oasis for restoring harmony of body, mind, and spirit. The holistic journey begins the moment guests enter the spacious sanctuary, with its open-air relaxation lounge facing a tranquil garden of greenery and “floating” meditation pavilions that beckon from a quiet reflecting pool. As the only resort spa in Hainan licensed in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), it has a menu appealing to guests looking to be pampered in sheer luxury as well as to those seeking the philosophy and therapies of TCM. Dr. Li first takes each patient’s pulse. Then he examines the color, shape, and coating of the tongue and asks about medical history and emotional concerns, while noting general demeanor, breathing patterns, even odor. On the basis of these diagnostic clues, he prescribes dietary changes, herbal remedies, and such TCM regimens as acupuncture, acupressure, and cupping to restore the patient’s qi and maintain yin-yang equilibrium.

Master Hu, the spa’s resident Shaolin kung fu expert, holds private tai chi and qi gong sessions of breathing exercises, movement, and meditation to strengthen the body and balance the mind. He also introduces the concept of Zen through a traditional tea ceremony, teaching guests how to pause every day to take stock of themselves. “Zen means meditation, and meditation means balance,” he explains. “When you find twenty minutes for yourself, it’s like recharging your batteries and refreshing your spirit.”

三亚文华东方酒店水疗谷以结合中国传统生 活和养生之道为理念，提供宾客恢复元气的 绿洲，达到身心灵和谐。疗程从宾客踏入内 殿开始，开放式沙发区面对葱郁庭园，宁静 倒映池中央的「漂浮」冥想凉亭仿佛正声声 呼唤。这里是海南唯一拥有中医执照的度假 村水疗中心，不论单纯想享受奢华体验，或 欲探索中医哲学与治疗方案，均可获得满足。 李医师先用三指交替按压为客人把脉。 他观察客人舌头的颜色、形状和舌苔，询问 病史和是否有心神方面的困扰，同时观察整 体举止、包括气息和气味。医师将根据这些 线索来开处饮食调整、中草药、针灸、穴位 按压、拔罐等中医疗法，以助身体恢复元气， 维持阴阳调和。 虎师傅是水疗谷来自少林的功夫大师， 开设私人太极和气功课程，引导宾客透过呼 吸练习、动作和冥想来强化体格、平衡心灵。 他亦藉由禅茶仪式介绍禅的观念，教导宾客 如何每天检视自己。他解释道 ： 「禅就是冥想， 冥想就是平衡。藉由 20 分钟的自我锻炼，就 可为自己充电、振作精神。 」 island dining

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罗浮风情

louvre at first sight The City of Light inspires Parisian panache at City of Dreams.

LOUVRE CAFÉ, in the newly opened shopping boulevard at City of Dreams, is surely one of Macau’s more evocative settings, summoning up that inimitable feel of la belle France.

Nestled under a glass-paneled dome that recalls the famous pyramid of its namesake, the café is splashed with sunlight and shaded by white umbrellas and lush green trees. The intricate mosaic floor leads to luminous cases filled with spellbinding displays of pastries, cakes, and desserts, all inspired by master artworks from the Musée du Louvre.

“Pastry is my passion,” says Chef de Cuisine Louis Heng, “and art is my great inspiration.” Citrus Cloud, one of his signatures, is a good example. Bursting with the sunny flavors of blood orange, yuzu, and lemon, it draws its themes from the Louvre’s collection of Egyptian antiquities.

The café also offers an alluring selection of sandwiches, salads, crepes, waffles, and fougasse, focaccia’s French cousin.

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Indulgence continues at the caviar station with its luxury offerings from Kaviari of Paris.

Afternoon tea sets are fully booked every day.

“The most popular is probably the Venus De Milo,” says Chef Louis. “It includes sautéed seafood and mini pulled-pork ciabattas and sweets like cheesecake, macarons, and scones – but the ladies’ favorites are the chocolate high heel and lipstick!”

Tea sommeliers brew steaming pots of Palais des Thés, the contemporary French brand. And the coffee barista insists on only the most premium beans from around the world. Customers choose their preferred brewing method, from French press to siphon vacuum to Hario V60 drip.

“Macau is very image-focused,” says Chef Louis, “and we wanted to create a place that lands somewhere between fine dining and street food, but with a European bistro atmosphere, casual and relaxed for enjoying good food with good friends.”

罗浮咖啡在新濠天地新开幕的购物大道上， 法式风情使人仿佛置身法国。咖啡馆的圆 顶玻璃令人联想到罗浮宫金字塔，日光映 入馆内，亮白的太阳伞如盖树荫为宾客遮 阴。错综精致的马赛克镶嵌地板延伸至蛋 糕柜前，琳琅满目的蛋糕甜点取材自罗浮 宫的艺术作品。 主厨 Louis Heng 说 :「烘焙甜点是我 的热忱所在，艺术则是我的灵感来源。」他 的招牌创作 Citrus Cloud 就是取材自罗浮 宫古埃及文物的甜点，散发血橙、柚子和 柠檬等水果清新香气，少有宾客能抵挡它 的诱惑。 罗浮咖啡也提供三明治、沙拉、法式 可丽饼、窝夫以及普罗旺斯面包。来自巴 黎殿堂级品牌 Kaviari 的鱼子酱更是令人垂 涎。热门下午茶每日满额预约，Louis 主 厨表示 ： 「维纳斯女神下午茶算是最受欢迎 的。」餐点包含炒海鲜、迷你手撕猪肉意大 利拖鞋面包，以及芝士蛋糕、马卡龙和英 式松饼等各式精致小点，而女士最爱的就 是高跟鞋巧克力和口红巧克力！ 侍茶师使用法国品牌 Palais des Thés 的茶叶泡茶，咖啡师则坚持仅用最优质的 咖啡豆来冲煮咖啡，从法式压壶、虹吸式 到 Hario V60 滴漏式手冲咖啡皆任君选择。 主厨 Louis 表示 ： 「澳门是个很重视形 象的地方。我们想要打造一个介于高级餐 饮和优闲小馆之间的场所，这里有着欧式 小餐馆的氛围，让宾客能惬意地和好友享 受美食。」

DAVID HARTUNG (3), COURTESY OF CITY OF DREAMS (2)

PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS MACAU

↑ Citrus Cloud 柚惑 → Premium Champagne Caviar Afternoon Tea Set 尊尚鱼子香槟下午茶 ↘ The Louvre Palace 罗浮三文鱼 ↙ Chef de Cuisine Louis Heng

Vitello Tonnato (Veal & Tuna Tataki) 牛仔肉并半熟吞拿鱼 ↗ Executive Chef Jochen Beranek ↗↗ Summer Berries, Buffalo Ricotta Panna Cotta 水牛起司奶冻伴夏日杂莓

P R E S E N T E D B Y A LT I R A M A C A U

四季真滋味

a chef for all seasons

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

The ever-changing cycles of the year bring new tastes to Aurora’s classic Italian food.

JOCHEN BERANEK, Executive Chef of Altira Macao, is a stickler for keeping it real.

“When I was younger, I used to change eve­ry-­ thing,” he says. “Now, I focus on the very classic dishes – I might add a little something or give it a new style of plating, but I don’t tamper with perfection.”

Chef Beranek, who leads the kitchen at Aurora, Altira Macao’s signature Italian restaurant, comes from Austria, but his family’s trips to the south influenced his northernItalian cooking style. “My father is from an area on the Italian-Slovenian border and we spent all our holidays there,” he says.

“I learned to cook by the seasons – braised dishes and polenta in autumn and winter, citrus and salads in summer.”

Using seasonal produce of the highest caliber is at the top of the chef ’s priority list. His pasta carbonara is made with porcini mushroom – or whichever variety is at

its peak at the moment. Dishes ordered from the truffle menu will be topped, starting in May, with shavings of the prized fungi from Western Australia. Later in the year, they’ll be Piedmont white truffles and then Perigord black truffles from France. “We’re meant to use the foods that are naturally in season,” says Beranek. “That’s where the most authentic tastes are found.” His classic vanilla panna cotta is served with summer strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries, but he sources wild cranberries from the Alps in autumn.

Beranek loves the regional diversity of Italy’s multiple cuisines. “Borders can’t segregate – the food in Sicily is more like what you’d find in North Africa. A region like the Alps has borders all through, but the people live close together and there are so many similarities in traditions, languages, and food. Borders can’t separate things and they don’t define people.”

坐镇澳门新濠锋酒店意大利餐厅「奥罗拉 (Aurora)」的行政主厨 Jochen Beranek 坚持 做菜要呈现正宗味道 ： 「年轻时我想变出新 花样，现在则以经典菜色为重心，或改变 小许，或用新风格摆盘，通常点到为止， 以呈现原本美味。」 Jochen 来自奥地利，但他的北意烹饪 风格却深受家族于欧洲南方的旅行经历所 影响。他说 ： 「父亲出生于意大利及斯洛维 尼亚交界，我们常在假日举家前往，也因 此知道如何顺应季节来做菜，如秋冬适合 煨炖菜式和玉米糕，夏天则是享用柑橘及 沙拉的时节。」 使用品质一流的当令食材为 Jochen 做 菜的最高原则，如他的奶油培根意大利面 会用上当季最佳的牛肝菌。自五月推出至 今的松露菜单，每道菜式上桌时均会洒上 产自西澳、价格不菲的顶级黑松露薄片。 而进入下半年则变成意大利皮埃蒙特的白 松露及法国佩里戈尔黑松露的擅场。主厨 强调 ： 「我们专找季节性食材，保证滋味纯 正天然。」他的经典水牛起司奶冻搭配夏季 时令的草莓、覆盆莓及黑莓，而秋季则会 变成阿尔卑斯山的野生蔓越莓。 意大利菜系丰富，各区域的多样变化 让 Jochen 深深着迷。他形容 ： 「国界不能 阻隔烹调方式，如西西里的地方菜滋味就 和北非菜很相似，阿尔卑斯山区虽横跨多 个地方，但居民因地缘关系，不论传统、 语言及食物均有许多相似之处。国界不是 屏障，也非用来定义人的标准。」 island dining

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高度与态度

altitude with attitude When the audacious young chef at Alto Bar & Grill reinterprets the classics, it’s as breathtaking as the view from the thirty-first floor.

PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“THIS IS NOT A STEAKHOUSE, ” says Mike

Boyle, head chef at Alto Bar & Grill, the new contemporary restaurant high up in Causeway Bay’s V Point Tower. “It’s a grill-centric restaurant, which is a distinction I think should be made.”

Indeed, somewhat surprisingly, the first dish to appear in the rotating images on the restaurant’s website is neither their USDA prime tenderloin nor the Argentinian grassfed rib eye, but rather a gorgeously plated starter of ahi tuna. “We have steak and lamb, and we have mackerel and a few starters that impart grill flavor, like the grilled peaches with foie gras. But not every main is from the grill – it’s a well-rounded menu.”

Boyle’s approach to cooking is best described as heavy on the passion and laced with a strong dose of practicality. “I put ahi tuna on the menu because it’s a crowd favorite, but from a chef’s perspective, it can be a boring dish. So my challenge was to make it exciting.”

To deliver a vivid mix of colors, textures, and flavors, the fish is served two ways: as a tartare tower layered with avocado purée and diced young coconut, and as a fan of seared tuna loin slices encrusted in black and white sesame seeds. Both incarnations are accompanied by a vibrant swoosh of mango chili purée.

Purely ornamental garnishes are deemed verboten. On steaks, Boyle eschews the typical

rosemary sprig in favor of something more intriguing and functional: blistered shishito peppers. The green chilies, mildly spicy with a sweet vegetal vim, are dressed in chili-garlic vinegar and deliver a potent visual and flavor pop against the red-wine-and-butter-basted sirloin. Even the luminous pink Himalayan salt slab serves its purpose of gradually adding flavor the entire time the steak rests on it.

Boyle is at his most creative when reinterpreting classic dishes with playful updates.

He pairs seared foie gras with a house-made almond-spice waffle, grilled peaches, borderline-savory vanilla peach purée, grilled shishito peppers, and a candied-almond crumble with pink peppercorns. Simultaneously sweet, salty, sour, and spicy, the dish is a diverting take on the clichéd foie gras with fruit compote and toast points.

Taking a classic, turning it on its head, and then turning it sideways is Boyle’s special delight. His deboned, head-on branzino is accompanied by sous vide fennel, French beans, and cherry tomatoes and then topped with a unique addition. “We start with a whole roasted fish,” he says, “something people recognize as very traditional. But we augment it with something unconventional like an anchovy-based sauce. And though the anchovy is seemingly Italian,” he smiles, “we toss it into a butter sauce that’s French.”

“Every time we turn the steak, we hit it with red-wine butter. The wine adds that tannic flavor to the surface, and the fat facilitates the heat from the grill in giving a nice even color and flavor to the entire steak. We plate it on a salt board, which looks great and adds flavor the whole time, and we garnish it with shishito peppers dressed with a chili garlic vinegar that adds a nice feeling of satiety in your mouth.” 「牛排每翻一次面，就会涂上红酒奶油。红酒 为牛排表层增添单宁香味，油脂则促进烤架上 的热度扩散，牛排呈现漂亮均匀的色泽之馀， 更带出平衡丰厚的味道。牛排烤完后置于盐板 上，好看之外也能在享用过程中不断提味。上 桌时放上狮子唐辛子点缀，配上辣味蒜香醋， 口感饱满，让人大呼过瘾。」

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PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

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“I wanted to play with the flavors of classic French duck a l’orange. So we start with duck breast that’s pan roasted to render the fat and achieve the nice crispy skin that everyone looks for. We put it on a bed of pink grapefruit, blood orange, watercress, and red endive. A swirl of beet purée with red wine plays off the yellow, red, and pink baby beets in the salad. It looks summery and tastes very light, but it’s also filling.” 「这道菜的原型是经典法式香橙鸭胸，我想好好改造一番。鸭胸先用平底锅煎过，封住肉汁，同 时煎出能吸引每个客人的香酥表皮，接着放在葡萄柚果肉、血橙、西洋菜及红菊苣上。一抺红酒 甜菜根泥则把沙律中黄色、红色及粉红甜菜衬托得更加五彩缤纷。这是一道夏日风味十足的料 理，清爽又不失饱足感。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

铜锣湾时尚商业大厦 V Point 最新现代餐厅 「Alto Bar & Grill」主厨 Mike Boyle 强调： 「我 们不是牛排屋，是以烧烤为主的餐厅，此 中不同容我特别指明。」 餐厅网站上的轮转影像既非美国顶级 USDA prime 级沙朗，也不见阿根廷草饲肋 眼，而是装盘精致的黄鳍前菜，着实有点 出人意料。「客人可品尝到牛排及羊肉，也 有青花鱼及烤蜜桃佐鹅肝等带有烧烤风味 的开胃菜，但并不代表每道主菜都非烧烤 料理不可，菜单经过精心设计、面面俱到。」 「满腹热诚，加之以丰富的原创性」 －如此形容 Mike 的烹饪哲学再贴切不过， 「黄鳍金枪鱼是许多客人的最爱，菜单上当 然少不了这一味，但对厨师来说却稍嫌无 聊，而我的任务就是让这道菜变得有趣好 玩。」主厨为了完整呈现鲜明的颜色搭配、 口感及味道，把黄鳍创作成两种型式 ：鞑 靼生鱼塔缀以酪梨果泥及碎椰青肉，以及 覆以黑白芝麻、广受喜爱的炙烧黄鳍，两 道精心之作均放上芒果辣椒泥，入口相当 丰厚鲜味。 仅做装饰的配料是厨房大忌。Mike 避 开常见的迷迭香，反之选用更具提味功能 的狮子唐辛子来烹调牛排，整体风味更加 引人入胜。这种绿色辣​​椒 味道微辣，带着 香甜的草本滋味，配上辣味蒜香醋，视觉 效果及味道与以红酒及奶油烤炙的沙朗牛 排形成强烈对比。牛排享用过程中，底下 晶莹剔透的喜马拉雅玫瑰盐也表现得恰如 其分，让味道更上一层楼。 Mike 总能将经典菜式玩出新花样，天 马行空之处展露无遗。炙烧鹅肝搭配自制 辣味杏仁窝夫、烤蜜桃、味略咸的香草蜜 桃果泥、炙烧狮子唐辛子、脆糖杏仁碎片 及粉红胡椒粒。酸甜咸辣，四种味道同时 拥现，为鹅肝佐糖煮水果烩及烤三角土司 片的传统组合带来新意。 将经典大改造，微调修正，以不同方 式呈现可说是 Mike 的拿手好戏。原条去 骨海鲈鱼配以真空低温烹调的茴香、法国 豆及樱桃番茄，再缀上独一无二的配料上 桌： 「烘烤整条鱼算是传统作法，但以鯷鱼 酱料调味可就相当少见，这创新配搭让味 道更具惊喜。」 「鯷鱼说来好像偏意式食材」， 他笑着说， 「但我们可是用法式奶油酱汁来 炖煮。」

“When I think of food, I think of color, texture, and mouthfeel in addition to flavor. Here you have the pink tuna, green avocado, and white coconut in the tartare; the black and white sesame crust on the seared tuna; and the red-flecked bright orange of the mango chili purée. The avocado purée tastes like guacamole, and the young coconut adds a chewy, juicy texture. So we have a nicely covered tuna dish that gives something extra without going overboard.” 「想起食物，除了味道之外，颜色、质地及口感等 不同元素也会出现在我的脑子里：鞑靼生鱼塔有粉 色黄鳍鱼肉、绿色酪梨及白色椰肉；黑白芝麻覆盖 的炙烧黄鳍，以及亮橘色中缀有艳红色泽的芒果辣 椒泥。酪梨果泥吃起来就像墨西哥酪梨莎莎酱，搭 配的椰青肉则增添嚼劲及多汁的口感。这黄鳍菜式 佐以上述配料上桌时恰到好处，不会过多，却又加 了点巧思，吃得到不一样的味道。」

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美味科学大解密

the science of delicious

Chef Bruno Ménard

NEVER MIND modern molecular cuisine – the original scientists in the kitchen have always been the pastry chefs. Their recipes ultimately come down to the physical properties of the fats, sugars, starches, proteins, and water content in the ingredients. The genius of any good pastry chef lies in a deep understanding of how these components interact with each other and react to external parameters like temperature and mixing techniques to produce flavors and textures that human taste buds find irresistible.

No one knows this better than Bruno Ménard, son of an acclaimed pastry chef, executive chef of Tokyo’s L’Osier during three consecutive years of triple Michelin

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stars, and one of the three judges on the television show MasterChef Asia, launched in 2015 across Asia on Lifetime. Working in Gaggenau’s Hong Kong showroom, Ménard takes advantage of the latest culinary technology in ovens and cooktops to precisely control his outcomes, but still insists that the single most important factor is the ingredients.

“We’re chefs,” he says, “not magicians who make something appear out of nothing. We magnify the original flavors or associate different ones together, but we must have amazing products to make amazing food. The quality of the ingredients isn’t merely important, it’s essential.”

And, especially for French pastry, this means using first-rate dairy products.

“To deliver authentic French flavors, pastry chefs have to source genuine products,” says Ménard. “And the distinctive thing about Candia Professionnel products is that they contain pure butter and pure cream from the freshest milk from France—and the terroir is important.

Other products may have the same fat content, but all the subtle flavor notes are missing.”

Natural cream, Ménard points out, can be fragile, and it requires proper handling.

Before whipping, the cream, along with the whisk and bowl, must be well-chilled.

Knowing when to stop whipping to prevent separation and how gently or vigorously to combine the cream are also critical. “These are the basics, founded on respect for the processes and the product.”

当代分子料理暂且放一边，糕点师傅一直 以来是厨房里的科学家，食谱追根究底， 皆可回溯脂肪、淀粉、蛋白质及水等基本 成分。厉害的糕点师傅秘诀就是要对各成 分间的交互作用了若指掌、因应温度等外 在因素得当，同时融合不同技巧，打造味 蕾无法抗拒的美妙味道及口感。 Bruno Ménard 正 是 个 中 翘 楚， 父 亲 是首屈一指的糕点大师，Bruno 除了担任 连续三年摘下米其林三星的东京顶级餐 厅「L’Osier」 行 政 总 厨 外， 也是 自 2015 年 在 Lifetime 频 道 播 出 并 热 遍 亚 洲 各 地 的实境节目「亚洲顶级厨师」的三名评审 之一。他在德国厨具品牌「嘉格纳」香港 旗舰展示空间，利用最新烹饪科技产品精 准掌控，成品分毫不差。但他强调，食材 才是最重要的环节。 他表示 ： 「我们是厨师，而非凭空变出 东西的魔术师，任务是把食材原味放到最 大，或与其他味道相连结。但食物要令人 惊艳，前提在材料也必须是时令食材才行。 好的食材是关键所在。」对法式糕点而言更 是如此，非得使用一流的乳制品不可。 「为了做出正统的法式口味，糕点师傅 一定要寻找真材实料的产品，肯迪雅和众 市面品牌不同之处在于其黄油及奶油均是 用法国最新鲜的牛乳制成，当地风土正决 定了品质。其他出品或许有相等含脂量， 却唯有肯迪雅产品拥有细微的风味变化。」 Bruno 指出「纯天然」奶油的处理程 序需要特别注意。打发之前，奶油、搅拌 器及搅拌碗需先冷藏。打发过程也要知道 何 时 该 停 手 以 免 油 水 分 离、 何 时 该 放 轻 或加重的力道拿捏也是需要留意的地方。 ​ 「这些步骤以我们对制作过程及产品的敬意 为出发点，都是糕点师傅不可或缺的基本 工。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A master of French pastry expounds the culinary logic of using only the best natural dairy products.

Vanilla and orange blossom water diplomate, ginger candy caramel 香草橙花水鸡蛋布丁伴姜焦糖

GINGER CARAMEL 150 g sugar 250 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 35.1% 2 g fleur de sel 12 g ginger confit

CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE 250 g milk 1 vanilla pod 3 egg yolks 50 g sugar 20 g flour

ITALIAN MERINGUE 110 g egg white 170 g sugar 57 g water

DIPLOMATE CREAM 40 g crème pâtissière 2 g gelatin 200 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 35.1% 90 g Italian meringue 14 g orange blossom water

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CRISPY DOME 75 g Candia Unsalted Butter 60 g cassonade (brown sugar) 60 g almond powder 60 g flour, type 55 zest of 1 lemon 20 g crumbled feuillantine (puff-pastry biscuits)

DECORATION 100 g dragées (white sugar-coated almonds) 100 g ginger confit zest of 1 orange

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Caramel: Cook the sugar in a saucepan until caramelized and add a little bit of Candia Unsalted Butter. In a separate pot, preheat Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream, then slowly add to the caramel mixture and bring to a boil. Whisk in the ginger and salt, mix with a hand blender, and pass through a strainer.

2. Crème pâtissière: Boil milk with vanilla bean, allow to infuse for 20 minutes, and strain. Add a third of the granulated sugar to vanilla infusion and boil. Sift flour and mix with egg yolks and remaining sugar. Dilute mixture with the milk, bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes, stirring briskly with a whisk. Transfer the cream to a bowl, cool to 30°C, cover with plastic film in contact with the surface, and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

3. Italian meringue: In a saucepan, cook granulated sugar with water to 118°C. When the syrup has reached 115°C, begin beating egg whites in a stand mixer on medium speed. When foamy and soft, slowly pour in the syrup with the machine running. Beat for about 15 minutes until meringue is shiny and forms soft peaks, then cool to room temperature. Use immediately.

4. Crispy domes: Preheat oven to 170°C. Mix all ingredients except feuillantine in a bowl until a ball of dough forms. Add feuillantine, roll out the dough between sheets of baking paper, and cut out rounds 4 cm in diameter.

Place the disks on the backs of half-spherical silicone molds 5 cm in diameter and bake 10 min.

5. Diplomate cream: Soak the gelatin in water, melt it, mix it with the custard cream, and add the meringue and orange blossom water. Chill before folding in the chilled whipped cream.

6. Final assembly: In each dessert cup, pour in 10 g of caramel, add diplomate cream, sprinkle with almonds and ginger, grate on orange zest, and cover with a dome.

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

INGREDIENTS

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

制作步骤 1. 焦糖：平底锅上将糖煮至焦 化，放入少许Candia淡黄油。 趁锅热时，加入Candia专业鲜 奶油煮沸。加入糖姜及盐，手 动搅拌后倒上滤网过筛。

成分

卡士达鲜奶油

姜焦糖

40克 卡士达酱 2克 吉利丁 200克 Candia 乳脂肪 35.1% 专业鲜奶油 90克 意式蛋白霜 14克 橙花水

150克 糖 250克 Candia 乳脂肪 35.1% 专业鲜奶油 2克 盐之花 12克 糖姜

卡士达酱

酥脆圆盖

250克 牛奶 1条 香草荚 3 颗 蛋黄 50克 糖 20克 面粉

75克 Candia 淡黄油 60克 cassonade 红糖 60克 杏仁粉 60克 T55法国面粉 1颗 柠檬皮 20克 酥皮饼碎块

意式蛋白霜

装饰

110克 蛋白 170克 糖 57克 水

100克 糖衣杏仁 100克 糖姜 1颗 橙皮

2. 卡士达酱：牛奶及香草豆煮沸 后放置20分钟，加三分一细 白糖再煮沸。面粉过筛，与蛋 黄及剩余白糖充分混和后加牛 奶稀释，煮沸持续5分钟并用 搅拌器快速搅匀。奶油移至碗 中，降温至摄氏30度后于表 层覆上保鲜膜，置于气密容器 中，放冰箱冷藏。

材于碗中充分混和，做出球状 面团。加入酥皮饼，以烤盘纸 卷起面团，切成直径4公分圆 饼状。圆饼放到直径5公分的 半球形矽胶模具背面，进烤箱 烤10分钟。 5. 卡士达鲜奶油：吉利丁倒入水 中溶解，与卡士达酱混和，加 入蛋白霜及橙花水。冷却后再 伴入冷鲜奶油中。 6. 组装上桌：每一甜点杯内倒入 10克焦糖、加卡士达鲜奶油后 洒上杏仁及糖姜，现磨橙皮点 缀后覆上圆顶即大功告成。

3. 意式蛋白霜：平底锅内放细白 糖及水煮至摄氏118度，糖浆 温度达摄氏115度时，升降搅 拌机转中速，开始打发蛋白。 呈泡沫状、质地柔软时，倒入 糖浆继续作业，打发15分钟， 直至蛋白霜出现亮泽、微微隆 起。冷却至室温后立刻使用。 4. 酥脆圆盖：烤箱预热至摄氏 170度。除酥皮饼外，所有食 island dining

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

四手合制 美食飨宴

Cantonese Collaboration

On November 4 - 6, Vida Rica Mandarin Oriental, Macau will see the first collaboration between Chef Wong Tak Wing and Chef Fei, executive Chinese chefs at the group’s properties in Macau and Guangzhou, respectively. They will be joining forces in a special four-hands dinner menu, showcasing their expertise and presenting newly conceived dishes that highlight the most authentic of Cantonese flavors. In anticipation of the event, the chefs took the time to share something about their backgrounds and their culinary approaches towards Cantonese cuisine. § 今年十一月四日至六日，澳门文华东方酒店和

广州文华东方酒店的中餐行政总厨——黄德荣（黄大厨）和黄景辉（辉师傅）于御苑餐厅即将进行第一次合作，联手 打造一份前所未有的「四手晚宴菜单」，在秀炉火纯青的烹饪技艺的同时，更要带来强调正统的全新粤菜菜式。

Crispy roasted chicken with flaxseeds One of Guangzhou’s most popular dishes is crispy chicken, and Chef Fei looked for a way to take it to the next level with premium ingredients. He was inspired during his travels when he noticed Western pastries made with flaxseeds – an ingredient widely considered to have health benefits. His version uses Wenchang chicken, one of Hainan’s most famous exports. The chickens are farmed for 190 days and fed with soybeans and potatoes, which produces the tender texture of the meat, according to Chef Fei. “The time is long gone when people ate just for the sake of getting full,” he explains. “People have much higher standards and expectations these days, and they are looking for a complete dining experience that also delivers aesthetic fulfillment.” 亚麻籽烧文昌鸡 DAVID HARTUNG (2 + FOLLOWING PAGE )

脆皮鸡是广州名菜之一，而辉师傅想用顶级 食材把它提升到另一个层次。曾在旅行时尝 过以亚麻籽制作的西方面点，有益健康的亚 麻籽即便成为了师傅的创作灵感。师傅特意 选取来自海南的著名食材－文昌鸡，全因文 昌鸡在被豢养的 190 天里，都是黄豆和马铃 薯等「天然饲料」饲养，口感相当鲜嫩。 「人们为充饥而吃饭的年代早已过去了， 」辉 师傅说， 「现在的饮食标准提高不少，宾客寻 找的是美感享受兼具的用餐体验。 」 island dining

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

“Cantonese cuisine is all about the freshness of the ingredients. 食材鲜度是粤菜 最重要的一环。”

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Deep-fried “swan” dumplings with shredded roast goose and radish “Chefs expend a lot of effort on new dishes,” says Chef Fei, “and we want to present them well and make sure they are memorable.” His dumplings in the shape of swans are stuffed with shredded roast goose and wrapped in both water-based and oil-based pastry that’s folded multiple times to achieve its layered look. He came up with the dish when Jiang by Chef Fei at Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou, first opened, and it has since proven particularly popular for occasions like weddings and Valentine’s Day. An original take on dim sum, the deep-fried “swans” are just one of Chef Fei’s signature Cantonese dishes enlivened with contemporary flair. The swans are presented on a plate with dry ice underneath to create a dramatic, smoky effect.

岭南风范天鹅酥 「厨师们耗费很多心力创造新菜式， 」辉师傅说， 「我们想用最 好的方式来呈现，让顾客一见难忘。 」作为辉师傅众多招牌菜 之一， 「岭南风范天鹅酥」是传统点心和现代烹饪巧思交汇而 成的结晶。天鹅造型的粤式点心精致可爱，牛油酥皮和面粉 皮渐次叠放，呈现出层层分明的视觉外型，滿滿牛油香味的 酥皮內正包著水分充足的香碎鹅肉。而为了增加上桌效果， 菜盘子还放着干冰营造出迷蒙的感觉。 「岭南风范天鹅酥」是 「江－由辉师傅主理」开业时推出的，在婚礼上或情人节时特 别热门。

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DAVID HARTUNG

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On early days in the kitchen CHEF FEI: I’ve always been passionate about cooking since growing up with my mother’s great food in Chaozhou, China. The flavors were unforgettable. I entered the industry about two decades ago, starting out at the bottom and working my way up in almost every role in the kitchen before becoming an executive chef in 1993.

I started out when I was 16.

Hong Kong was already very competitive, and it took a few years for a newcomer to go from learning the basics to becoming a chef. I spent five years learning the ropes before actually cooking a dish for guests. In my early days, I worked at a restaurant where I’d try to find out if a dish was good enough by trying it myself. It made me realize that you have to really know what you’re eating before you’re able to create something good.

CHEF WONG:

be an exchange of skills between Chef Wong and me – a great opportunity for us to learn from each other and grow. We also hope to bring the flavors of both cities together.

On ingredients CHEF FEI: It’s important for a chef to make food that’s both comforting and healthy.

Health concerns are at an all-time high, and cooking has taken a more nutritious turn.

We’re looking to choose healthy ingredients, organic where possible.

On the essence of Cantonese food CHEF FEI: Cantonese cuisine is all about the freshness of the ingredients. If we’re talking about cooking techniques, what we call the “breath of the wok” is integral – the tastes transmitted from the wok during stir-frying.

In the spring and summer, flavors are lighter and crisper, and in autumn and winter, food tends to be richer and heartier.

CHEF WONG: In terms of the flavors in a dish, they have to be rich without being heavy, fresh without being bland.

CHEF FEI: Take tofu and bird’s nest as exam-

ples – these are fairly bland ingredients, and the essence of cooking them lies in working out ways to infuse them with flavor.

On diners’ expectations CHEF WONG: Whether they’re dining with family or business associates, I want them to go home with an enjoyable experience. I want our guests to leave the restaurant with great memories.

On creating a dish CHEF FEI: For a great dish to come into being, the chef behind it has to put in a great deal of time and effort. It might look simple from the outside, but a lot has gone into simply sourcing the ingredients – and that’s before we figure out what flavors work with each other, the best way to prepare the dish, and how to present it.

Whether preparing a single dish or a whole meal, the ultimate goal for a chef is for the diner to appreciate the total experience.

On collaboration CHEF WONG: Chef Fei and I understand each other. We’re both veterans in the food and beverage industry – and we know that collaborating is always an important aspect of it.

Every chef has their own special flair. I find that when I work with another chef, we both end up absorbing the other’s best qualities. We also start to realize what we could improve on. The collaboration will CHEF FEI:

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Four-Hands Dinner Event Three evenings only, November 4-6, 2016 Vida Rica Restaurant, Mandarin Oriental, Macau 11月4日-6日澳门文华东方酒店御苑餐厅，两大名厨联手粤式盛宴。 For reservations 详情致电 +853 8805 8918

COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL , MACAU

CHEF WONG:

在我们引颈期盼这场盛宴的同时，两位大 厨亦分享了各自的烹饪生涯以及粤菜料理 方式 ： 辉师傅 ：我是吃妈妈煮的潮州菜长大的， 那口味令人难忘，也让我一直对烹饪怀抱 热情。我正式接触烹饪大约是二十年前， 从最基层做起，厨房里的什么工作我几乎 都碰过，通过不断的努力直到 1993 年才升 上行政主厨。 黄大厨 ：我十六岁开始学做菜，当时的香 港竞争已经非常激烈，一个新学徒要花好 几年的时间从基本学起，才能成为厨师。 我花了整整五年熟悉 箇 中技巧，才开始正 式烹饪。早期的我总会试尝菜式味道，来 判定菜式是否达到上桌标准。日积月累， 我领悟到在真正创作菜式前，必须要对食 材有足够深入的了解。

菜色的演绎 辉师傅 ：厨师必须要投入非常多的时间和 心力，才能造就一道成功的料理。表面上 看来很容易，然而光是「取材」一个步骤 就煞费苦心。用心取材，才能了解哪些口 味适合搭在一起，才能理出最佳的烹调和 呈现方式。 黄大厨 ：不管是一道菜式或是完整的一顿 餐宴，厨师的终极目标都是让顾客拥有美 好的品赏经验。

Sautéed Australian sirloin with Sichuan pepper and chilies This dish uses Canadian beef as an ingredient, along with Sichuan pepper and chilies. Cut into cubes, the beef is lightly marinated in salt and lemon juice and fried on high heat. This is essential to ensure the meat retains its tenderness with a crisp bite. The meat is then mixed with pepper as well as a homemade sauce which consists of soy sauce, oyster sauce, spices and sugar. Sichuan pepper is added while frying and finally, chilies are sprinkled on top. “The dish isn’t overly spicy; it’s good for a light lunch and suits Cantonese palates,” says Chef Fei. 煎烹椒麻澳大利亚西冷

关于合作 黄大厨 ：辉师傅和我很了解彼此，我们对 餐饮业也很熟悉，知道团队合作一直都是 不可或缺的方面。

DAVID HARTUNG

辉师傅 ：每个厨师都有自己的强项。我发现 和其他厨师合作时，总能吸纳彼此最优秀的 特质，也能看出自己需要加强的地方。能和 黄大厨合作是个难得的机会，我相信我们能 够交流不少技巧，彼此学习、成长。我们也 希望能把两个城市的风味融合在一起。

关于食材 辉师傅：厨师的料理不仅要美味，还要健康。 现在人们对健康的考量比以往高出许多，因 此做菜时也要从营养的角度下手。我们总是 选择健康食材，并尽可能使用有机产品。

西冷牛肉切成小块，先用柠檬汁和海盐调味，再以高温煎制，确保肉质柔嫩并 保留酥脆口感。 再加上花椒，以及融合酱油、蚝油、香料和糖制成的独家酱汁， 煎制时加入四川胡椒，最后洒上鲜辣椒便大功告成， 「这道菜不会太辣。 」辉师傅 说， 「很适合当轻食午餐，更适合喜爱粤菜的人。

粤菜的精髓 辉师傅 ：食材鲜度是粤菜最重要的一环。 就烹饪技术来说，「镬气」是一切的核心， 指的是炒菜时经由锅子传递上来的味道。 春夏时节，食物的口味比较清淡、活泼， 秋冬则比较厚重和浓郁。 黄大厨 ：好的粤菜口味应该丰富但不会太 重，清新而不会乏味。

辉师傅 ：我举个例子，豆腐和燕窝的味道 本来都很淡，如何为料理增添风味是烹调 巧思所在。

给顾客的话 黄大厨 ：不管跟家人还是同事来用餐，我 都希望顾客能带着享受的心情回家 ；我希 望这次愉快的用餐体验能成为他们的美好 回忆。 island dining

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双厨美味加成

gastronomic synergy Four hands work in concert to create a memorable epicurean evening.

The two chefs put the finishing touches on their dishes 两位大厨为菜式做最后润色

THE IDEA OF TWO PASSIONATE, commanding, authoritative chefs side by side in one kitchen may not conjure an image of perfect harmony. But the stereotype of the temperamental, testosterone-fuelled pressure-cooker environment is a thing of the past as more and more top chefs work in tandem to create epic culinary experiences.

This August, in celebration of the luxury resort’s twentieth anniversary, The Legian Bali held an exclusive four-hands dinner in which guest chef Daniel Sia, Founder and Executive Chef of Singapore’s award-winning The Disgruntled Chef, partnered with The Legian Executive Chef Luke MacLeod.

“It’s great fun to see how another chef works

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and his style in the kitchen,” says MacLeod.

“My team also loves it and they try to absorb as much as they can.”

Each with strong links to both France and Asia, the two chefs share culinary philosophies grounded in French technique and a commitment to seasonal, locally sourced produce. Their seven-course menu, pairing wines from around the world, showcased some of their signature dishes as well as new creations. “The menu was based on the wines,” says MacLeod. “As we went through tasting notes and thought about marriages, we tossed around a few ideas, and it all came together like strawberries and cream.”

Featured items, including Roasted Whole Foie Gras, Oxtail and Truffle Consommé, as well as Muscovy Duck Confit, Watercress, Watermelon Radish, Cashews Cinnamon, Soy and Ginger, made lavish use of the island’s fresh produce. “One of our signature dishes, Bangkal Hitam, is made from a free-range organic Balinese black pig,” says MacLeod. “We’re the only restaurant in the world that serves it, and it’s out of this world.” Rescued from the brink of extinction five years ago, the pig is now farmed by a local man in Bulelang. “For this dinner we used guanciale, cured meat from the cheek, served with Sumbawa oysters – a great combination.”

The idyllic Legian Bali

COURTESY OF THE LEGIAN BALI (3)

The Legian Bali 的醉人景色

两位精力旺盛、充满威严、忙着发号施令 的大厨在同个厨房并肩工作，似乎难以令 人联想到和谐融洽的画面。但喜怒无常、 充满阳刚气息、压力爆表的厨房环境已然 是陈年往事，一流大厨的携手合作近来蔚 为风潮，共创令人惊艳的用餐体验。 今年八月，巴厘岛顶级度假酒店 The Legian Bali 为庆祝二十周年庆，特别请来 屡获大奖的新加坡「The Disgruntled Chef」 餐厅创办人暨行政主厨 Daniel Sia，与酒店 行政主厨 Luke MacLeod 合作举办别开生 面的名厨四手之夜。对此次合作，Luke 表 示相当满足 ： 「近距离观察其他厨师实际作 业及不同的风格真的很有趣。我的团队也 乐在其中，试着在过程中吸收新知识。」 两位大厨跟法国和亚洲也有极深的渊

源，他们所吸纳的烹饪哲学之本建基于以 精致的法式料理技艺 ，和致力寻求当地时 令食材的热心。特制套餐共设七道菜，搭 配来自世界各地的一流佳酿。除了招牌菜 之外，还能品尝到两位大厨新创的菜色。

Luke 表示 ： 「这款菜单以葡萄酒为出发点， 先品酒再思考如何搭配菜色可相得益彰， 脑力激荡出不少点子，最后非常成功，配 得刚刚好。」 菜单让宾客可亲尝各式岛上的新鲜农 island dining

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TF EA AS T U I NRGE N E W S

Above: Luke MacLeod Right: The Disgruntled Chef, Daniel Sia Inset: The Restaurant, the setting for August’s Four Hands Dinner

Luke discovered his passion for cooking after a serious bike accident forced him to reevaluate his career choices. “It was my childhood dream to race motorbikes, but obviously I couldn’t do that anymore,” he says. “I’d always enjoyed cooking with my mum, so she nudged me in the right direction.” After finishing his apprenticeship and a short stint in Melbourne, Luke sold all his belongings and bought a one-way airline ticket. “I knew that if I wanted to be really good at this and learn things the right way, I had to go to France.”

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He spent the next eight years working at some of the most notable Michelinstarred restaurants in the country, including three-star Lucas Carton in Paris, two-star Restaurant Senderens in Paris, three-star Le Pres d’Eugenie in the southwest, and the two-star SaQuaNa in Honfleur. Jobs in Hong Kong and Thailand followed before he settled in Bali in 2014. “I love my job here,” he says. “I surf before work, and I have creative freedom, access to beautiful fresh produce,

and a wonderful team to support me.”

The opportunity to work with other celebrated chefs from around Asia is also a major highlight for the laid-back Australian. “I love seeing what other people are creating,” he says. “This dinner had a stellar menu. The standout dish for me was Daniel’s Seared Scallop, Roasted Pork Belly, Miso Carrot Purée, Chamomile Infusion, which we paired with the 2013 Astrolabe Sleepers Pinot Noir from New Zealand. Wow.”

COURTESY OF THE LEGIAN BALI (3)

产，包括烤全鹅肝、松露牛尾清汤、油封 番鸭、西洋菜、西瓜萝卜、腰果肉桂、黄 豆及姜等。Luke 还特别介绍 ： 「我们其中 一道招牌菜 Bangkal Hitam 以巴厘岛有机放 养黑猪为食材，全球只有在我们这吃得到， 味道之好可说只应天上有！」这种猪五年 前在绝种边缘，现在主要由布勒冷当地一 名专职人畜养， 「这次晚餐用了烟熏猪颊肉 佐以松巴哇蚝上桌，相辅相成，味道恰到 好处。」 多 年 前， 一 场 严 重 的 越 野 车 意 外 让 Luke 重新审视生涯规划，也发掘了自己 对烹饪的热情。他说 ： 「参加越野摩托车

比赛是我小时候的梦想，但那条路显然已 经走不通了。和母亲一起下厨总是让我开 心不已，也拜她所赐让我找到人生的新方 向。」在墨尔本完成学徒实习和短暂工作后， Luke 决然卖掉全身家当，订了张单程机票。 「我心里清楚，要达到一流的境界，必定 要学习最正统的方式，因此我非去法国不 可。」 接下来八年，他在法国多家知名的米 其林餐厅磨练，包括巴黎的三星餐厅「Lucas Carton」及二星餐厅「Senderens」、西南边 三星餐厅「Le Pres d’Eugenie 」以及位于翁 夫 勒 的 二 星 餐 厅「SaQuaNa」。2014 年 在

巴厘岛定居前，他也曾于香港及泰国工作。 他开心地表示 ： 「我热爱在巴厘岛工作，上 班前先冲个浪。我在创作上享有极大的自 由，鲜美的农产唾手可得，还能与绝佳的 团队一起共事。」 此次有机会和其他亚洲区大名鼎鼎的 厨师合作，也是这位个性优闲的澳洲厨师 生涯中的一大体验。他表示 ： 「别人创作的 过程让我着迷不已，这次晚餐菜单真的无 懈可击，Daniel 的炙烧扇贝、烤猪肚、味 噌红萝卜泥及甘菊特调特别出色，搭配纽 西兰 2013 的 Astrolabe Sleepers Pinot Noir， 真的只有『哇』字可以形容。」 caption island dining

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调酒翘楚

clear-cut cocktails Mamie Chen pops up at the BAR HIGH FIVE pop-up for a taste of mixology Japanese style.

HIDETSUGU UENO is already the toast of the town, though it’s still early into the first of two weeklong sojourns in Hong Kong. His second is scheduled for the end of October at The Shell at MO Bar, bookending the two-month pop-up re-creation of his award-winning Ginza establishment, BAR HIGH FIVE.

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Checking out a number of Hong Kong’s top venues, Ueno-san draws awestruck glances and elicits a few cases of quivering hands among young mixologists unexpectedly called upon to perform before the veteran winner-turned-judge of countless international bartending competitions.

日本调酒大师上野秀嗣短时间内两趟 造访香港，各为期一周。初来乍到， 他却早已是人人仰慕的明星人物。他 在十月底将于香港置地文华东方酒店 「MO Bar」的 Shell 登场，为他银座获 奖无数的酒吧「BAR HIGH FIVE」两 个月的快闪行程划下句点。 上野到香港多个一流酒吧巡礼， 才现身就引人注目，年轻一辈调酒师 对他满是敬畏，更别提这位国际调酒 赛事常胜军兼评审常客临时出考题时， 他们会紧张到双手禁不住颤抖。上野 对于年轻调酒师的惊慌失措完全不以 为意，和一般行事严谨、不苟言笑的 日 本 调 酒 师 形 象 大 相 径 庭， 但 说 到 omotenashi ( 全心全意的待客之道 ) 以

With quick, clean strokes from a Japanese paring knife, Uenosan takes just two minutes to whittle a ten-centimeter cube of ice into a crystal-clear diamond.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

上野拿着削皮 刀，动作干净俐 落，十公分的 冰球只需两分 钟便雕成晶莹 剔透的冰钻。

TASTING NEWS

“In Western countries, you should be able to taste each of the individual components – gin, Cointreau, and lemon juice – in a White Lady,” says Ueno-san. “But in Japan, we prefer to balance all the ingredients to create a single unified flavor.”

Affable by nature, Ueno-san overlooks any telltale signs of nerves, breaking the stereotype of the stoically focused Japanese bartender. But he does hold strictly to the principle of omotenashi, wholehearted hospitality, and of kodawari, the relentless pursuit of painstaking perfection. “We do everything in front of our customers,” he says, “since the postures, processes, and techniques are so important. The impression we make behind the bar directly influences the overall experience – even the taste of the drinks.”

His famous hand-carved ice diamonds were conceived as a way to surprise and delight his customers. “Years ago, everyone was serving whisky with an ice ball – boring. So my master bartender at Star Bar and I decided to go a hundred eighty degrees opposite from a shape with no edges. Whisky served over an ice diamond instantly becomes eye candy.”

Ueno-san deftly illustrates the hard shake that he has continued to perfect

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over a decade. “The right bar tools, the right ice, and the right shaking method are all important and necessary in making a drink that’s lighter and easier to drink,” he says. Kazuo Ueda of Tender Bar originally developed the hard shake as a three-step push-and-twist motion to aerate and chill the cocktail, but Ueno instead performs a two-step technique that starts with a fast pull and then a push, moving left and right to add complexity to the swirling movements inside the shaker. The two masters may differ in rhythm and style, but the results are the same.

With an extended rattling flourish, Ueno-san pours out his classic White Lady directly into the waiting glass, skipping the fine-strain that non-Japanese bartenders typically employ. “The drink is around minus eight degrees Celsius,” he explains, “so the tiny ice chips don’t quickly melt. Instead, they dissolve in your mouth with each sip. We call that the gift of the hard shake.”

及 kodawari ( 追求尽善尽美 ) 等原则他可丝 毫马虎不得。他强调 ： 「精准的动作、过程 及技巧缺一不可。在吧台后给人的印象对于 客人的整体经验、甚或是调酒的味道都有直 接影响。 」现雕冰钻是上野的拿手好戏。上 野说 ： 「多年前，威士忌老是搭配冰球，好 无趣。当时 Star Bar 首席调酒师和我就想来 点和圆球无棱角形状完全不同的东西，配上 冰钻的威士忌立刻成为吸睛度满点的新宠。 」 上野动作俐落，示范花了十几年才臻 完美的「硬摇法」 ，他说 ： 「工具、冰块以 及摇的方式都要恰当正确，才能调出口感 轻盈、顺口柔滑的酒。 」 「硬摇」开山宗师 「Tender Bar」上田和男发明三段式「推转」 动作，让调酒能快速通气冷却，但上野自 创两步骤，先快速拉回再推出，左右移动 让摇杯内旋转动作的繁复程度大增。两大 摇杯达人动作节奏及风格或许不同，但成 品同样无懈可击。上野以华丽的大动作收 尾，将经典酒「白色佳人」直接倒入杯中， 略过一般非日本调酒师习惯的过滤程序。他 解释 ： 「酒体温度约是摄氏零下八度，细碎 冰片短时间不会融化，啜饮入口时才会化开， 照我们的说法这是硬摇的『恩赐』 。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

「在西方，点白色佳人，要能喝得到琴酒、Cointreau橙酒及柠檬汁等个别材料的味道。但在日本，我们追求平衡，偏好所有味道融合为一。」

P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

四型四款

four of a kind A quartet of award-winning mixologists converge to communicate the renown of Diageo Reserve.

ALL HAVE WON cocktail competitions around the world, and now they’ve come together in Hong Kong’s Seafood Room to show off their accumulated knowledge and skills in mixing drinks that show off the splendors of Diageo Reserve’s collection of luxury spirits. Part meeting of the minds and part mutual admiration society, the gathering commences with traded shoptalk, laughter, and hugs. And, in a still-male-dominated business, it’s worth noting that they all happen to be women.

“It’s a great time to be a woman in the industry in Hong Kong,” says Beckaly Franks, one of the city’s most vocal proponents of giving women opportunities for growth and platforms for recognition within the field. “Women behind the bar are very much respected here—businesses, brands, the whole community really want to see them do well.” 四人均曾于世界调酒大赛中桂冠加身，现在齐集香 ，一展长年累 港美景餐厅「Seafood Room 海鲜房」 积的专业知识及调酒技巧，同时将 Diageo Reserve 的独到之处尽显无遗。基于志同道合，彼此也相互 钦佩已久，聚会以行话、笑声及拥抱开场。值得一 提的是，与以往屡次以男性为主的聚会局面不同的 是，这次聚集的四位调酒师刚好都是女性。 「此时此刻，做为女性， Beckaly Franks 强调 ： 身处香港调酒界再适合不过了。 」她是香港调酒界 的大人物，为女性在该领域内争取机会并打造平 台，好让她们大展身手，争取认可。她进一步说明： 「女性调酒师在香港备受尊重，不论是酒业界或各 彩。 」

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

大酒类品牌，甚至整体社会都希望看到她们大放异

Cherry Lam

Brand Ambassador for Diageo Portfolio Diageo Portfolio 系列品牌大使

Never shy about adventuring beyond her comfort zone, Lam has tended bar at one of Macau’s busiest nightclubs and also at one of Hong Kong’s highest-rated bars. Having honed her skills under worldclass mixologists Antonio Lai and Tony Conigliaro, she has explored different drinking cultures in her work abroad and has also gained experience in the PR and marketing side of the industry. “You need to be curious about your work,” she says. “You can’t be afraid to ask questions and discover the answers.”

Lam draws on her research into the history of the Negroni by serving up its long-lost cousin, the Boulevardier. In a drink calling for equal parts bourbon, Campari, and sweet vermouth, the bold and spicy notes of Bulleit Bourbon add complexity while balancing the intensity and sweetness of the other components. 不怕冒险、勇于跨出舒适圈的个性，让 Cherry 无论在澳门人潮最汹涌 的夜店酒吧或香港最顶尖之一的酒吧，都能乐于其中。她曾在世界级 调酒大师 Antonio Lai 及 Tony Conigliaro 手下磨练，技艺相当精湛，多 年海外经验也让她深知各地不同的饮酒文化。 Cherry 曾接触过业界公 关及行销工作，经历相当完整。她表示： 「对于工作要时时充满好奇心， 勇于提问，寻找解答。 」

Cherry 钻研「内格罗尼 (Negroni)」已久，她特地调制这杯跟它 失散已久的系列酒款「花花公子 (Boulevardier)」上桌。调酒包括同等 分的波本威士忌、金巴利酒及甜苦艾酒，Bulleit 波本威士忌呛辣的侵 略性口感让这款调酒层次更为丰富，同时平衡其他成分的强度及甜度， 完美融合。

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P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

Beckaly Franks

“Babe”/ Managing Owner, The Pontiac 「辣妹」/「The Pontiac」創辦人

“I’ve always been a righteous babe,” says Franks. “I mean that as in ‘rad’ and ‘willing to go for it.’” She took the world by storm as the first female to win the 42Below Cocktail World Cup in 2012 and has since made it a priority to build a support system for women to find a voice and a place behind the bar, whether on her female-centric team at The Pontiac or through the sense of community she fosters wherever she goes.

Franks’ cocktails are an extension of that philosophy. Her marmalade sour with The Singleton is a prime example. Built around the whisky’s baking-spice notes, its sheer balance and drinkability keep guests’ focus on their friends. “We view drinks as a gateway for people to come together and be part of something bigger.”

Beckaly 形容自己是个「寻求公平正义的辣 妹」 ，她强调： 「意思就是『不打嘴炮』 ，要『拿 出实际作为』 。 」自 2012 年成为首位摘下「42 Below 全球鸡尾酒大赛」冠军的女调酒师后， Beckaly 声名鹊起，不断为业界的女性从业 人员提供所需，协助她们寻求定位以及提供 工作机会，不管是她在「The Pontiac」带领 的女性团队，或所到之处所建立的「调酒大 家庭」里，都能见到不少女性调酒师的身影。 她的调酒自然也充分展现所信仰的中心

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

思想，以 The Singleton 单一麦芽威士忌为 基底的「marmalade sour」便是最佳例证。 这款酒带着威士忌烘焙及辣味相间的韵味， 易入口、酒体平衡极佳，让客人们可以好好 享受和朋友在一起的时光 ： 「调酒是人们欢 聚的好理由，可以一起玩出更大的可能。 」 island dining

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P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

“We just had to try harder,” says Lam of her years at an all-girls’ school that taught her to be independent and unafraid of physical challenges.

Whenever anything heavy or unwieldy had to be moved, the girls simply did it themselves, and now, behind the bar, she smiles when guests admire her ease at double-shaking cocktails.

Her Lavender Ramos is a soothing play on the notoriously difficult Ramos Gin Fizz. Prolonged and vigorous shaking—first dry, then with ice—is required to properly aerate it and achieve a satiny consistency.

The citrusy, delicately floral notes of Tanqueray No. TEN help to point up the lavender syrup and develop a fuller and more complex flavor.

“Some people have a cup of hot milk before bed,” grins Lam. “I’d rather have a Lavender Ramos.” 「一定要加倍努力，不断尝试。 」根据就读女校多年的经验， Dorothy 表示： 她知道独立的重要性，也无畏各种体能上的挑战，遇到要搬重物的情况， 女生们也不假他人之手，事事亲为。换个场景来到吧台，Dorothy 两手 同时摇杯，好身手让客人不时发出惊叹，她面带微笑、欣然接受。 她的「薰衣草拉莫斯 (Lavender Ramos)」是调酒界数一数二难调 的「拉莫斯金菲士 (Ramos Gin Fizz )」的宽心版。摇杯费时、需要力道 －先干摇，接着加冰块摇－才能产生泡沫，最终达到丝般的滑顺质感。 带有柑橘及细致花香的 Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒衬托薰衣草糖浆，融合 「有人睡前习惯来杯热 的风味更加完整、层次更为丰富。Dorothy 笑说 ： 牛奶，换我的话大概会选薰衣草拉莫斯吧！」

Dorothy Lam

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Assistant Bar Manager, Seafood Room 「Seafood Room 」餐厅酒吧副经理

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Amanda Wan

Beverage Development Manager, Tastings Group Limited Bar Manager, The Envoy 「Tastings Group Limited」集团饮品发展经理 「The Envoy」餐厅酒吧经理

For Wan, the admitted “cute” demeanor of her early days behind the bar has matured into an assured sense of accomplishment. Reflecting on her promotion last year to beverage development manager over five of Hong Kong’s top cocktail venues, she knows the importance of professionalism: “Teamwork is essential when you’re working behind the bar, and when you’re running a team, you need everyone to buy into who you are as person and as a leader.”

That confidence comes into play when making memorable experiences for guests. Wan devised her Early Bird cocktail in response to a request for a passion-fruit martini. Ketel One Vodka serves as a silky base that lets the passion fruit, pineapple, and vanilla flavors shine. “I loved the challenge of crafting something fresh and relevant that would make her happy.” 于 Amanda 而言，早期在酒吧背后的懵懂青涩如今已经蜕变为备受肯 定的成熟笃定。回忆起去年自己晋升为香港五家顶级鸡尾酒吧的饮品 研发经理的经历，她亦深谙职业专业化的重要性。她强调 ： 「在吧台工 作，少不了团队合作，而管理一个团队，作为个人以及领导，都要能

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

服众才行。 」 就是带着如此自信，Amanda 能不断为客人创造难忘的回忆。她 独创的「早鸟 (Early Bird)」调酒灵感来自于客人点的百香果马丁尼。 以 Ketel One 伏特加作柔顺的酒底，让百香果、凤梨及香草的味道更 加鲜明。 「我喜欢接受挑战，打造新鲜的、能让客人心领神会的、打自 心底愉悦的调酒。 」 ISLAND DINING | TK |

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WINE MASTER

异曲同工之妙

parallel universes When Nespresso invited Paolo Basso, named Best Sommelier in the World 2013, to be part of Vinexpo 2016, TK Founder and Publisher Mark Hammons met with him to discuss his life and work. § 在年度

酒业盛事2016年Vinexpo香港酒展上，Nespresso邀来曾获选2013年全球最佳侍酒师的 Paolo Basso 共 同合作，TK创办人及出版人Mark Hammons藉此机会和他畅谈人生及工作点滴。

How did you choose a career in wine?

您何以选择和酒相关的工作？

PB: While studying, I discovered wine and was fascinated by this mys-

PB: 对酒的启蒙期算是读书时开始的，这像是

terious beverage – every wine label is like a postcard, and every bottle is an ambassador for its region of origin. Wine allows you to travel the world with your senses.

种神奇的魔力，让我深深着迷－每个酒标似是

When did your collaboration with Nespresso come about?

与 Nespresso 的合作从何时开始？

PB: In 2009 as part of their Nespresso Coffee Sommelier™ Program,

PB: 我们在 2009 年因 Nespresso 推出的「咖

which offers sommeliers the chance to discover the complex world of premium coffees.

啡侍酒师计划」而结缘，策划目标是要让侍酒

What are the main similarities and differences between growing coffee cherries and wine grapes?

栽种咖啡豆和酿酒葡萄有什么异同吗？

PB: Both beverages are a combination of soil, climate, and savoir-

技艺的结晶，两者从栽种、采收、咖啡豆和葡

faire. Both encompass an extremely high level of expertise, from the growing, harvesting, and sorting of coffee cherries and grapes to the roasting techniques of the beans and fermentation of the grapes. And terms used to describe wine – dense, smooth, intense, fruity, balanced – also apply to coffee.

萄筛选，到烘豆及葡萄发酵等过程均需高度专

不同的明信片，每瓶酒都像是原产地的大使， 让人喝酒时有如乘着五感环游世界。

师有机会一探顶级咖啡的堂奥。

PB: 咖啡和葡萄酒都是结合土壤、气候及精湛

业技术。厚重、顺滑、浓烈、果味及风味平衡 等品酒词汇套在咖啡里也完全适用。

Nespresso 在「Tosca」餐厅推出四道菜午 餐，每一道都搭配旗下最顶级的 Grand Cru

Nespresso hosted a four-course lunch at Tosca, and each dish contained one of their Grand Cru coffees. How did you go about pairing the wines with the coffees?

咖啡 , 如何让咖啡像葡萄酒般搭配？ 格正统的餐酒搭配原则，再加上一点自己的风

PB: To create interesting flavor combinations, I followed a series of

格让整个体验更加完美。个人而言，我比较偏

strict, well-defined rules on food and wine pairing and added a touch of my own to enhance the experience. Personally, I prefer quite traditional, balanced, and harmonious pairings.

好传统、整体平衡、和谐的搭配方式。

PB: 要创造出有趣的美味组合，我遵循多种严

您是咖啡鉴赏家吗？ PB: 我 出 身 意 大 利， 深 受 背 景 文 化 影 响， 偏

PB: I am definitely influenced by my Italian origins, which lead me

to prefer intense flavors. My favorite Nespresso Grands Crus include Ristretto, Arpeggio, Roma, and Indriya from India.

好浓烈的味道。个人最爱的 Nespresso Grand Cru 有 Ristretto、Arpeggio、Roma 以 及 来 自 印度的 Indriya。

那些酒是您的最爱？

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What wines are your personal favorites?

PB: 身为侍酒师，我认为要时时保持开放的心

PB: To be a good sommelier you have to be open-minded – I frequently

态－我比较常喝瑞士葡萄酒，现在也成为了酿

drink Swiss wines, as I’m now a producer. When it comes to what to have in my cellar, I prefer reds and whites from Bordeaux, whites from Bourgogne, and reds from Tuscany and Piedmont.

酒商之一。至于酒窖里要珍藏什么酒，我会说

TK | island dining

是波尔​​多的红白酒、勃艮地的白酒，以及托斯 卡尼及皮蒙特的红酒。

EMMANUEL NGUYEN NGOC

Are you a coffee connoisseur?

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TK | ISLAND DINING

Unforgettable food, casual mood…

Since 2006, LaVilla Restaurant & Bar has been renowned as Hong Kong’s most stylishly contemporary venue for romantic dinners. But it’s also the ideal place for birthdays, wedding celebrations, and private parties. Capturing the upbeat vibe of the area, our wraparound outdoor terrace gives out on glamorous views of Victoria Harbor stretching east of Hong Kong Island and beyond.

LaVilla offers a full range of Continental cuisine with an emphasis on seafood and grills. A complete selection of imported specialties includes fresh oysters from France, slow-cooked US Prime rib-eye beef, Ibérico ham from Spain, Chilean sea bass, and on and on. Two especially indulgent dishes are the succulent Australian M9 Kobe beef rib-eye steak and our extravagant seafood platter, which has justly earned acclaim from LaVilla regulars. Also on offer is a wide array of wines from around the world to perfectly complement your special meal.

At night you’ll hear one of HK’s hottest live bands. From R&B to rock, soul to pop, blues to progressive, every set delivers. Down to the last detail, LaVilla takes extra care to make sure your dining experience will be unforgettable.

RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Cuisine 全日制餐厅 International Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort, 28 North Haitang Road, Haitang Bay District, 572014 Sanya, China 中国海南省三亚市海棠湾海棠 北路28号三亚理文索菲特度假 酒店 q +86 (898) 3299 8888 Daily: 06:30 - 22:00 A Smart Casual 5

Alto Bar & Grill 31/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港登龙街18号V Point 31楼 q +852 2603 7181 Lunch: Daily: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: Daily: 18:00-23:00 5

Aurora 奥罗拉 Italian Level 10, Altira, Macau Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路新濠锋10楼 q +853 2886 8868 Breakfast: 7:00-10:00; Lunch: 12:00-14:00; Dinner: 18:30-22:30; Sunday Brunch: 11:3015:30 (Closed on Sunday nights; closed on Mondays except breakfast) A Smart Casual 5

The Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort’s authentic Hainan Baoluofen features handmade rice noodles from a local village grandmother. 三亚理文索菲特酒店供应正宗 海南抱罗粉，面条由当地村庄 一名老奶奶亲手制作而成。

BAR HIGH FIVE at The Landmark Mandarin

Oriental

Fresh 海角轩 Beachfront Seafood Mandarin Oriental Sanya, 12 Yuhai Road, Sanya City 572000, Hainan, China 中国海南省三亚市榆海路12号 三亚文华东方酒店 q +86 (898) 8820 9999 Tue to Sun: 18:00-22:00 5

Gaggenau Kitchen Appliances Hong Kong 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港仔黄竹坑香叶道2号One Island South 19 楼 q +852 2890 1522

Hainan Pearl 海南明珠 Regional Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort, 28 North Haitang Road, Haitang Bay District, 572014 Sanya, China 中国海南省三亚市海棠湾海棠北路28号三亚 理文索菲特度假酒店 q +86 (898) 3299 8888

Laucala Island Resort

The Restaurant

c/o KPMG, Chartered Accountants, 10 BSP Suva Central, Renwick Road, Suva, Fiji q +679 8880077

5

Louvre Café 罗浮咖啡 Café Level 1M, The Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道1M楼 q +853 8868 6603 Sun to Thu: 10:00–20:30; Friday to Saturday & Public Holidays: 10:00-21:00 5

Rhoda Western Ground floor, Upton 345 Des Voeux Road West, Hong Kong 香港德辅道西 345号维港峰地下 q +852 2177 5050 Tue to Fri: 18:00-00:00 Sat: 12:00-15:00, 18:00-00:00 Sun: 12:00-23:00 5

5

Jiang by Chef Fei 江-由辉师傅主理 Cantonese Mandarin Oriental Guangzhou, 389 Tianhe Road, Tianhe District, Guangzhou 510620, China

中国广州市天河区天河路389号 广州文华东方酒店 q +86 20 3808 8888 A Smart Casual 5

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Seafood Room 海鲜房 26/F, Tower 535, 535 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾谢斐道535号Tower 535 26楼 q +852 3708 9668

SW 永利扒房 Steak/Seafood North Esplanade, G/F Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫北名店街 地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Wed to Mon: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

International The Legian Bali, Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak Beach, Bali 80361, Indonesia q +62 361 730 622 Daily:Breakfast: 7:00-11:00; Lunch: 12:00-17:00; Wood-fired Pizza: 11:30-19:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Casual & Resort Chic

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Sanya 三亚文华东方酒店水疗谷 Mandarin Oriental Sanya, 12 Yuhai Road, Sanya City 572000, Hainan, China 中国海南省三亚市榆海路12号 三亚文华东方酒店 q +86 (898) 8820 9999 Daily: 10:00-22:00

Vida Rica 御苑餐厅 Chinese & Western 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新填海区 孙逸仙大马路澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8918 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Wing Lei Palace 永利宫 Cantonese West Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫西名店街 地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Lunch: Mon to Sat:11:30 -15:00 ; Sun & Public Holidays: 10:30 -15:30 Dinner: Daily: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

DAVID HARTUNG

The Shell at MO Bar, Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15号置地文华东方酒店 MO Bar, The Shell q +852 2131 0077 A Smart Casual

DESSERT

海南街头小摊常贩售的传统冰凉点心「清补凉」综合数种不同材料而成，到了「三亚理文索菲 特度假酒店」行政主厨 Adam Schlipf 手中多了几分创意，多种海南当地广受欢迎的热门水果盛 于椰子壳中，椰奶、红豆、绿豆、枣干、碎椰肉、粉条及荞麦等各种食材应有尽有。

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DAVID HARTUNG

Executive Chef Adam Schlipf highlights one of Hainan’s popular and important local fruits by using a coconut shell as container for the traditional dessert qing bu liang, a refreshingly cold sweet soup of varying ingredients that is commonly sold by street vendors. Sofitel Sanya Leeman Resort’s version features coconut milk, red beans, mung beans, dried dates, shredded coconut, rice-based pasta, and buckwheat.

TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

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et Br ot h , s) er na Ka

en pe www.bugholzm r.27, öb el. at

”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

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