TK29 Nordic Odyssey

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 29

N O R D I C

K I T C H E N O D Y S S E Y

TROMSØ

Arctic Harvest 极圈丰年

STOCKHOLM

Stories to Tell 美味背后 LEVI

Polar Attraction 极地极致美

LEVI: THE PUREST VISIT FINLAND Photograph by Jani Kärppä

AURORA COSMOS PROJECT ZERO CARBON FOOTPRINT ONE HOTEL COMPLEX FOUR DISTINCT SEASONS F I V E - S TA R L U X U R Y SEVEN HOURS FROM BEIJING

PLACE ON EARTH AR R I V I N G I N 20 1 9

For investment information please contact: invest@auroracosmos.com

STARTER

Timo Nieminen, chief executive chef of Hullu Poro, bestows a Finnish touch on bread service by pairing freshly baked bread with homemade air-dried reindeer and nestling them both in a carved-out birch tree log.

Hullu Poro 行政主厨 Timo Nieminen 用新鲜现烤、香气四溢的面包配搭自家风干的驯鹿肉，

DAVID HARTUNG

并放在以桦木雕成的容器中，为餐桌增添浓浓芬兰风味。

4

|

TK | nordic od yssey

T A S T I N G 29

N O R D I C

K I T C H E N O D Y S S E Y

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Chris Dwyer

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Kate Nicholson

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Vicki Williams

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Violien Ng

Jane Wong

CHINESE EDITOR

ACCOUNTANT

Zita Wan

Terrie Lam

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Pek Wong Ella Sio EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Debbie Yong CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

TRANSLATION SERVICES Babel Communications

Annie Wang

jonna@babel.com.tw

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Naomi Kam ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

PRINTING Asia One Printing 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

John Sek

DISTRIBUTION

DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE

One Logistics +852 5110 3084

This little white reindeer, a favorite resident at Hotel Taivaanvalkeat in Finnish Lapland, is one of many varieties of a species that holds iconic status throughout the Nordic countries, which host large semi-domesticated herds as well as the stillremaining wild populations. Reindeer meat – fresh, dried, salted, or smoked – is prized for its lean and tender qualities and regularly appears on menus across the North.

Read more, in multiple features throughout the issue, about how it is prepared.

这头毛色雪白的小驯鹿是芬兰拉普兰Taivaanvalkeat酒店最受欢迎的「住客」，也是在 北欧具有非凡地位的众多物种之一。大部分驯鹿被北欧人以半驯养的方式放牧，也有 小部分的野生族群。不论是新鲜、风干、盐渍或熏制，驯鹿肉都以精瘦和软嫩的品质 着称，也因此经常出现在北国的餐桌上。翻阅本刊，了解更多驯鹿料理的故事。 Photography by David Hartung

6

|

TK | nordic od yssey

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2017 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

The seed for Nordic Odyssey was planted more than two years ago, when, during a dinner at FINDS restaurant, Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa took us on a culinary tour of his homeland. There were diver scallops from Norway, wild game pâté with rowanberry jelly from Finland, Venison Rydberg from Sweden, open-faced smørrebrøds from Denmark, smoked mackerel from Iceland, and Lapland pancakes covered with cloudberry and lingonberry.

Behind each dish was a tradition and a story: how the fish are caught, how the game is hunted, how the fruits are preserved. I tried to imagine what it would be like to go to all of these places with Jaakko as our guide and capture for our readers the beauty of the people and the landscape and the cuisine.

Now we are sharing all of that with you.

Our journey began, after we’d flown for hours over icy mountains, deep within the Arctic Circle in Norway’s northernmost corner, under of the expert care of the Norwegian Seafood Council, whose team moved with the precision of special agents. They were soon giving us a master class on skrei, a type of Norwegian Arctic cod, and using walkie-talkies to coordinate our every move, including an icy open-sea crossing to a shrimp boat ready to harvest and cook its catch.

In Finland, Jaakko’s homeland, we traveled to meet a farmer and a company who have found a way, by changing the diet of pigs, to produce pork that contains four times more omega-3 fatty acids.

Nearby, we visited a team of plant pioneers, whose greenhouse of colorful edible flowers produces a cornucopia of flavors: mustard, honey, Granny Smith apple, oyster, carrot, cucumber, basil.

When we reached the outskirts of Stockholm, chef Björn Frantzén was waiting to create for us, in his friend’s backyard, an extraordinary barbecue lunch of grilled langoustines, elk bone marrow with reindeer tartare, and spring lamb with ramsons. We spent two days with Björn and came to appreciate the thoughtful approach and quiet drive that have made him Sweden’s top chef.

The issue itself will tell the rest of the story, but not before we express our special thanks to chef Jaakko Sorsa. His resourcefulness, energy, and tireless good humor are unforgettable to those of us who shared the journey with him, and it’s because of Jaakko that we can share our Nordic Odyssey with you.

Bon voyage.

MARK HAMMONS

8

|

TK | nordic od yssey

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

1 L L A H N I UX A I A R E T D S R O AU B O P VINEX . 6. 2017 1 18. – 2

Asparagus and white wine: A classic

asparagus combined with lightly

Austrian pairing. Together, they tell the

matured Austrian white wine is

story of nurturing soil and exquisite

an epicurean spring adventure.

craftsmanship. Freshly harvested

austrianwine.com

CONTENTS

4 STARTER 14 Faraway Fruits • 16 Food as Life • 20 Freedom to Ask • 24 How It’s Done 28 Nordic Odyssey • 46 High on the Hog • 52 Polar Attraction • 70 Bridge to Finland 72 Blossoming Business • 76 State of Mind • 82 North Meets East

14

16

20

24

28

52

46

10

|

TK | nordic od yssey

70

72

76

82

CONTENTS

86 Stories to Tell • 102 Arctic Harvest • 120 Self-Expression Italian Style • 124 Noodles as Art Form 128 For the Love of Food • 132 Cantonese Roots, Global Shoots • 140 Spirit of the Archipelago 144 Mixing Nordic • 148 Adding the Panache • 154 Nordic Serenade • 156 Finnishing Up 158 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 160 D E S S E R T

86

120

124

128

132

102

140

12

|

TK | nordic od yssey

144

148

154

156

14

|

TK | nordic od yssey

FOOD & ART

鲜果自远方来

faraway fruits

MARSA PIHLA JA, JUICYREADING, IMAGE COURTESY AQUARELLE BY MARSA PIHLA JA

A Finnish painter unites technique, subject matter, and personal insight in her colorful interpretation of the natural world.

HELSINKI-BASED GRAPHIC DESIGNER, children’s author, and artist Marsa Pihlaja works day to day on such assignments as book layouts and illustrations. “I mostly use a Mac as my tool,” she says. “But creating with a paintbrush is something else. It’s the real thing.”

Pihlaja’s eye for vibrant color and a desire to explore the world of nature have led to a twenty-year pursuit of painting.

“I sometimes use paintings to make my graphic design more interesting,” she says. Working primarily in watercolor but also in acrylic, she prefers a technique called aquarelle, which requires particular dedication in applying multiple layers of thin, transparent pigment. It is only after hours of commitment to a particular subject that the image truly comes to life. “Aquarelle in my opinion is the most difficult medium of all,” she says. “It gives no chance for correcting, but it’s my favorite. Patience and waiting for parts of a painting to dry enough to continue are the keys.”

Her favored subject matter includes people, animals, insects, trees, flowers, and fruit. “My works,” she explains, “no matter whether they’ve been painted with aquarelle or acrylic, always use quite a bright and pure color scale, and they’re kind of clean and fresh, leaving lots of white surface.”

The painting reproduced here depicts the pages of an open book with images of fruits not usually associated with Finland.

“Juicy Reading is the name of this work,” says Pihlaja. “It visualizes the title’s play on words. These particular fruits symbolize fertility and abundance in our Nordic cold-climate country. The colors, shapes, and southern warmth are bursting out of the book in all their freshness and ripeness. In Finland, we have blueberries, strawberries, lingonberries, mushrooms, and apples, but our short summer with its long days and nightless nights is not long enough to grow pomegranates or ripen pears. So popping from the pages and the ‘story’ there’s a hint of faraway cultures where the climate is warmer and the fruit more abundant.”

As in all her work, Pihlaja transforms imagination into image through a respect for her medium and a mastery over it. “The best paintings are born,” she says. “You must let the painting talk to you and understand when to stop.”

来自芬兰赫尔辛基的 Marsa Pihlaja 是位图像设 计师、童书作家，更是位艺术家。她为书本排 版及绘制出别出心裁的插画。她说 ： 「我通常是 用 Mac 电脑绘图，但拿起画笔创作又是件完全 不同的事了，感觉更真实。 」

Marsa 对色彩的敏锐和探索大自然的欲望 让她一提笔就画了二十年。她说 ： 「有时我会用 绘画来让我设计的图像更生动。 」Marsa 的作品 以水彩为主，有时也用压克力颜料，绘画技巧 方面则偏爱水彩画 (aquarelle)，这是一种须费 许多功夫的绘画媒材 ：一层层涂上薄而透明的 颜料，在数小时的努力后，描绘的物件才跃然 纸上。 「对我来说，aquarelle 是画起来最困难 的媒材，一旦开始就没有修改的机会，但我非 常喜欢。画得好的关键在于耐心等待颜料完全 风干，一点也不能急。 」Marsa 说道。

Marsa 最爱的主题包括人物、动物、昆虫、 花草树木和水果。她说 ： 「不管采用的是水彩或 压克力颜料，我的作品都以明亮而纯粹的色彩 为主，并让大量的部分留白，希望带给人们清 新的感觉。 」 这幅画作藉由水果的意象描绘展开的书 页，而这些水果在芬兰都十分少见。Marsa 说： 「我把它取名为 Juicy Reading。我尝试把作品 名称中的文字游戏视觉化，画中的特色水果象 征寒冷北欧国家的生命力和创造力。水果的色 彩、形状和温暖的南方气候从书页中蹦跳出来， 彰显成熟又新鲜的风格。在芬兰，我们看得到 蓝莓、草莓、越橘、苹果和菌类，但我们短暂 的夏季即使永昼，也不够长出石榴或成熟的梨 子。因此书页中诉说的『故事』象征来自遥远 南方国度的问候，那儿的气候较温暖，水果也 较丰盛。 」 如同她的其他作品一般，Marsa 透过她对 媒材的熟悉和尊重，把想像转化为一幅幅的图 像。她说 ： 「最好的画作是浑然天成的。你要让 它和你对话，并适可而止。 」

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

15

16

|

TK | nordic od yssey

FOOD+DESIGN

食在生活

food as life

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY CHRIS OPANDER TONNESSON (LEFT ), PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ROSEMARY LISS (RIGHT )

An American artist expands her awareness at one of the world’s most experimental culinary institutions.

NORDIC FOOD LAB, based at the University of Copenhagen, is an organization uniquely dedicated to investigating “food diversity and deliciousness.” Founded in 2008, the crossdisciplinary open-source venture has brought together biochemists, sensory scientists, chefs, and academics to explore the “edible potential” of the Nordic region. US-based Rosemary Liss has been the first, and so far, the only, contemporary artist to participate in the project. For her, the experience became a metamorphosis.

In 2014, while Liss was with Hex Ferments, a fermentation company in Baltimore, a coworker suggested she watch a particular installment of the TV series The Mind of a Chef , hosted by restaurateur David Chang. In the episode, Chang pays a visit to Nordic Food Lab, which was founded by René Redzepi, head chef of Noma, and gastronomic entrepreneur Claus Meyer. “I’d never heard of Noma or Nordic Food Lab, but after watching the episode, I was immediately obsessed, and I knew I was meant to be there,” says Liss.

She emailed to ask if they would be interested in hosting a Fulbright Scholar, but received a reply saying the lab was in the process of moving out of the houseboat at Noma, the restaurant’s original location, to the University of Copenhagen. It just wouldn’t be possible for them to host anyone until they were settled in. But then, in the winter of the same year, the lab contacted Liss and asked her to apply for a summer internship. “The next thing I knew,” she says, “I’d landed in Denmark.”

Liss was particularly attracted to the lab’s interdisciplinary approach, which encourages participants “to explore taste, get their hands dirty, and put everything in their mouth with open hearts and the most curious of minds.” She applied with a specific research project: to study, through the

北欧食物实验室 (Nordic Food Lab) 成立于哥本哈根大学，专 注并致力于「食物多元开发，提升料理美味」 。该跨领域、作 风大胆的创新组织成立于 2008 年，吸引了生化科学家、感官 科学家、厨师与学者一道探索北欧食材的潜力。目前为止，来 自美国的 Rosemary Liss 是当中第一个也是目前唯一一个的当 代艺术家。对她来说，这次经验使她蜕变新生。

2014 年，Rosemary 在位于马里兰州巴尔的摩的微生物 发 酵 公 司 Hex Ferments 上 班， 有 位 同 事 建 议 她 收 看 David

Chang 主持的《大厨的异想世界 (The Mind of a Chef)》电视 节目。那一期节目中，本身也是餐厅老板的主持人 David 去 参观了由 Noma 餐厅主厨 René Redzepi 与美食创业家 Claus 「我从未 Meyer 携手创立的北欧食物实验室。Rosemary 说 ： 听过 Noma 餐厅或北欧食物实验室，但我一看完便深受吸引， 知道自己属于这里。 」 她写了封电邮问他们有没有兴趣当她的傅尔布莱特奖助 学金保证人，却收到回覆说实验室正在搬离 Noma 餐厅的发 迹地船屋，并即将迁到哥本哈根大学。他们得先安顿下来，才 有办法担当保证人。然而，就在那年冬天，实验室主动联系 「当我反应过来 Rosemary，请她申请夏天的实习计划。她说 ： 的时候，我已经来到丹麦。 」 最吸引 Rosemary 的是实验室跨专业领域的做法，鼓励 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

17

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY KATHERINE BALL (LEFT ), PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY CHRIS OPANDER TONNESSON (RIGHT )

FOOD+DESIGN

lens of the Nordic terroir, the process of making nukazuke , a traditional Japanese type of pickled foods fermented in a bed of rice bran. There was also discussion of her creating a permanent installation.

But then, during her three months in Copenhagen, Liss’s research focus shifted as she interacted with her colleagues and learned her way around a professional kitchen. “I put my nuka project to bed to focus on exploring ‘taste and disgust’ using the zoogleal mat, the ‘mother’ or kombucha culture,” she explains, using terms for the symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast that ferment the effervescent tea drink. “It was such a wonderful lens to work through my feelings and experiences on the bodily relationship between food, sex, regeneration, and decay.” As she sees it, Nordic Food Lab exists in a fascinating middle ground between haute cuisine and open-source research. “It brings up so many questions about our relationship to food, success, and the incessant drive to be unique, while constantly looking backwards as we recontextualize history.”

Liss drew inspiration for her work from her daily life in Copenhagen: bike rides to and from the lab, meals shared on the rooftop, and the newness of the Nordic landscape.

She had few rules, aside from a commitment to working with seasonal produce and Scandinavian ingredients. Besides innumerable experiments in dehydrating, decomposing, and preserving various foodstuffs, Liss also created beautifully plated pairings of local produce and kombucha culture prepared in different ways, which she photographed and also fashioned into a mobile that hangs permanently in the lab.

“Why do we love to eat oysters?” she ponders. “Is it for their anti-inflammatory properties? Maybe, but we all know that drinking a glass of Chablis and eating a dozen oysters is a pretty sexy activity. Beyond this luxurious pairing, we need to look at the relationship we have with food and our bodies, and how it’s all really an extension of the self. Eating is for survival, but it’s also a mechanism through which to showcase identity, build connections, and ultimately devour one another and ourselves.”

每位参与者「探索滋味，动手去做，抱持着开放和好奇的心态， 把每样东西都放进嘴里尝一尝。 」她申请具体的项目是结合北 欧的风土条件，研究日本米糠渍的制作过程。米糠渍是一种传 统腌菜，把蔬菜置于米糠内发酵。他们也讨论过她长期在此工 作的可能性。

Rosemary 在哥本哈根待了三个月。在与同事沟通的过程 中，她更了解专业厨房的运作，研究重心随之转变。她说： 「我 搁置了我的米糠渍研究计划，改为研究微生物丛对口味的影 响，这是发酵的始祖，或称为康普茶文化。 」Rosemary 用专 有名词解释这款气泡茶饮是产生于细菌和酵母的共生状态。她 解释 ： 「这种观察方式帮助我整理自身的感受，厘清我所见到 的食物、性爱、再生以及腐败之间的关系。 」在她眼中，北欧 食物实验室是介于高级料理和开放性实验之间、充满无限迷人 「实验室针对人与食物的关系， 可能的地方。Rosemary 认为 ： 关于何谓成功、追求独特的渴望，抛出许多问题，同时频频回 顾，一步步重新构建历史。 」

Rosemary 从哥本哈根的日常生活中汲取工作上的灵感。 她骑自行车往返实验室，在屋顶上用餐，以及感知触目皆新的 北欧风景。她极少订规则，但却规定自己只能用当季农产品和 斯堪的纳维亚地区的食材。除了针对不同食物的脱水、分解和 保存做了无数次实验，Rosemary 还为本地农产和康普茶设计 出多种不同搭配方式，更拍下照片，挂在实验室里永久保存。 她思索着 ： 「我们为什么爱吃牡蛎？是因为它能消炎吗？ 这是有可能的，但我们也知道喝一杯夏布利白葡萄酒，配十来 颗牡蛎有多爽快。两者是绝佳搭配，但我们还需要思考食物和 身体之间的关系，以及食物如何能成为自我的延伸。吃是为了 活下去，却也是展现自我身分、建立联系的过程，最终我们吞 下肚的只有彼此，和我们自己。 」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

19

INSPIRED LIVING

餐具设计自由式

freedom to ask Two Finnish designers translate the needs of a Michelin-starred restaurant into a line of graceful and practical tableware.

Kaksikko work in woods like elm and ash, which bring a quiet elegance to the Ask Ware collection.

Kaksikko以榆木和梣木等木材为原料， 为Ask Ware系列餐具带来一丝安谧的优雅。

ASK WARE. IMAGE COURTESY KAKSIKKO AND ​P HOTOGRAPHED BY M ​ AIJA ASTIKAINEN​ (3)

Kaksikko are responsible for much of the bespoke porcelain tableware that greets diners at Michelin-starred Restaurant Ask in Helsinki.

The ongoing Ask Ware series also includes wooden items, like this box designed to hold vegetable chips.

赫尔辛基米其林星级餐厅Ask大部分的定 制陶瓷餐具由Kaksikko负责。

Ask的系列餐具将引进更多木材元素， 例如这个盛载蔬菜脆片的箱子。

A S K WA R E, the contemporary tableware collection by Finnish design studio Kaksikko, was born out of a coursework assignment that prompted Wesley Walters, the studio’s cofounder, to interview Filip Langhoff, the chef of Helsinki’s Restaurant Ask, noted for its modern and original Nordic cuisine.

At the time, Walters was studying ceramics at Aalto University and was tasked with finding out from those in the culinary trade what they believe makes for beautiful and functional tableware. Following the interview, Langhoff unexpectedly asked Walters if he would be interested in designing some custom pieces for Ask: wooden boxes for vegetable chips and a tiny porcelain container for dipping sauce.

Today, Ask Ware is an ongoing project at Kaksikko, the studio co-helmed by Walters and Salla Luhtasela, who joined it in 2015. The pair met at Aalto University and quickly bonded over their strikingly similar aesthetic approaches.

They now collaborate on Ask Ware, so far having completed around fourteen different designs for the restaurant, including a set of three nesting pieces called Ask Trays made from ash. Currently, they’re designing two new dinner plates that will likely become a series comprising five shapes and sizes.

Special requests for new pieces continue to come in from Ask, usually centered around a new menu or fresh

presentation ideas. “Filip and his wife, Linda, have definite preferences regarding color, size, material, and mood,” notes Walters, “but generally they give us a good deal of freedom in terms of how we interpret their requests. I think they’re happy when we can come up with something that’s practical and elegant while being quiet enough to let the food shine.”

The Kaksikko duo’s affinity for food-related product design is inspired by lengthy work histories in the culinary field. As a trained pastry chef, Luhtasela understands food culture and presentation firsthand. Walters, who worked for five years at a tea house in California, also lived, worked, and studied in Japan for another five. “That time has had a big influence on my aesthetic and my interest in culinary design,” he says.

Although Ask Ware collection is not on sale to the public, Kaksikko’s Piippu pot for coffee and tea is currently available at Lokal in Helsinki and through a New York online shop and will be offered by Danish brand Skagerak in late 2018. In the works at Kaksikko is tableware for the designers’ favorite café, Maja Coffee Roastery near Helsinki. “It’s a tiny place run by a Finnish man and his Japanese wife,” says Walters. “Their aesthetic is an elegant fusion of Japan and Finland, and our style matches it very well.” nordic odyssey

|

TK |

21

INSPIRED LIVING

芬兰的设计工作室 Kaksikko 为赫尔辛基的 Ask 餐厅创作了一系列当代风格餐具，取名 Ask

Ware。因为一份学校作业，工作室的共同创 办人 Wesley Walters 前去拜访一向以具原创 性与现代风格的北欧烹调著称的 Ask 餐厅主厨

Filip Langhoff。 那时，Wesley 在阿尔托大学攻读制陶技 术，有份作业是向餐饮业人士讨教何谓美丽、 功能性强的餐具。访谈结束后，Filip 忽然问

Wesley 是 否 有 兴 趣 为 Ask 设 计 专 属 的 餐 具， 如装蔬菜脆片的木盒、盛沾酱的瓷制小碟等。 直 到 现 在，Kaksikko 仍 持 续 制 造 Ask Ware 系列餐具。这间工作室是由 Wesley 与 Salla Luhtasela 共同管理，后者于 2015 年加入。 两人结识于阿尔托大学，因极其相似的美学 手法结为知己。目前两人一起设计 Ask Ware， 已经设计出十四种不同形式的餐具，包括以梣 木制造、一组三式，名为 Ask Trays 的餐盘。 目前两人正在设计两种新的晚餐餐盘，很可能 会发展成包含五种不同形状、大小的系列餐具。

Ask 餐厅仍不断向他们提出制作餐具的特 别要求，通常是为了新菜单或呈现新的摆盘方 「主厨 Filip 和妻子 Linda 对 式。Wesley 表示 ： 但他们还是给我们相当程度的自由去进行诠释。 夺主，又能让食物本身显出光彩，还满高兴的。 」

Kaksikko 的双人拍档设计师与餐饮产品的 设计渊源颇深。Salla 是受过正式训练的糕饼师 傅，相当了解食物的文化和摆盘技巧。Wesley 则在加州一间茶馆工作过五年，也在日本住过 五年，在那儿读书、工作。他说 ： 「那段时间 形塑了我对餐具设计的兴趣和美学风格。 」 虽 然 Ask Ware 没 有 公 开 发 售， 但 目 前 在 赫 尔 辛 基 的 Lokal 可 以 买 到 Kaksikko 设 计 的 Piippu 咖 啡 与 茶 两 用 壶， 亦 可 透 过 纽 约 网 路 商 店 购 买，2018 年 底 前 更 能 在 丹 麦 品 牌 Skagerak 家 具 店 买 到。 Kaksikko 也 替 自 已喜爱、位于赫尔辛基的咖啡馆 Maja Coffee 「那地方小小 Roastery 设计餐具。Wesley 说 ： 的，由一个芬兰人和他来自日本的太太经营。 咖啡馆融汇了日本和芬兰的优雅元素，与我们 Wesley Walters and Salla Luhtasela​​of Finnish design studio Kaksikko

22

|

TK | nordic od yssey

的风格十分吻合。 」

IMAGE COURTESY OF​ ​K AKSIKKO AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHIKAKO HARADA (LEFT )

他们看到设计的餐具既实用又雅致，既不喧宾

ASK WARE. IMAGE COURTESY KAKSIKKO AND ​P HOTOGRAPHED BY M ​ AIJA ASTIKAINEN​( RIGHT )

于颜色、尺寸、材质和情绪都有明确的偏好，

Kaksikko’s practical and elegant aesthetic does not overwhelm the food placed on it.

Kaksikko的美学实用，秀美，却从不喧宾夺主。

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

厨具成就精准烹饪美学

how it’s done Gaggenau, the leading name in premium home kitchen equipment, enlists the talents of award-winning professionals for its new Masterclass series.

VEA Restaurant & Lounge, has won international acclaim and gained his restaurant a Michelin star. The creation he crafts in class is his breathtaking tea-smoked pigeon with corn, Yunnan morels, and salted duck egg, a masterfully presented dish, thanks to Cheng’s imagination and the absolute accuracy afforded by the range of Gaggenau appliances he used to produce it.

Cheng first marinates the pigeon breast, ladling boiling lo sui sauce over it ten times before placing it in the blast chiller and then repeating the cycle another three times.

He then seals the breast in a pouch using Gaggenau’s innovative vacuuming drawer 400 series designed for the precision practice of sous vide cooking, which preserves nutrients, enhances the ingredients’ natural flavors, and yields unrivaled texture.

After sealing, the pigeon is cooked at exactly 57°C for precisely 30 minutes, thanks to the impeccable calibration and functionality of the Gaggenau combi-steam oven 400 series. Finally, it’s roasted with brown butter and glazed with coconut nectar before being sprinkled with the chef’s house blend of Asian spices. The plate is garnished with elements that include red vine sorrel, garden begonia, and purslane, all delicately tweezered for a final flourish.

The dish is typical of Cheng’s style, melding French gastronomic techniques and the finest in fresh seasonal produce with the faultless finesse of precision technology. “The Gaggenau combi-steam oven is a sleek, efficient, and very convenient machine,” he explains. “But even more important, it functions flawlessly every single time. Its built-in design also means it can be easily incorporated without taking much kitchen space, I want one for my new home!”

Gaggenau 近 期 于 香 港 开 设 的 星 级 大 师班烹饪课程，透露了荣获米其林星 级 肯 定 的 VEA Restaurant & Lounge 行 政 总 厨 Vicky Cheng 之 所 以 享 誉 国 际 的 原 因。Vicky 凭 借 其 创 意 发 想 与 Gaggenau 厨具讲求的绝对精确，在大 师班上演绎出令人叹为观止的茶熏乳 鸽。这道佐以玉米、滇菌、咸鸭蛋的料 理不仅美味出众，摆盘手法更是一绝。 首先，Vicky 把滚烫的卤水汁浇在 鸽胸肉上，再进行冷却，并重覆三次， 确保卤水汁渗透至鸽肉中。他接着用创 新的 Gaggenau 400 系列真空抽屉将腌 制好的鸽胸肉真空密封，精确掌控真空 低温烹调技术，留住营养，也提升了食 材的天然风味，呈现完美无瑕的肉质纹 理。 接 着， 他 使 用 Gaggenau 400 系 列蒸烤炉无懈可击的调控功能，分毫不 差地把温度控制在 57°C，并烹调鸽肉 30 分钟。Vicky 再将鸽肉以焦化奶油烘 烤，浇以椰子花蜜，再撒上独家综合亚 洲香料。餐盘上，扭成一串的红花酢浆 草、秋海棠、马齿苋排列精美，是为最 终点缀。 这 道 料 理 充 分 展 现 出 Vicky 的 风 格，他融合法式厨艺，选用最上乘的新 鲜当令食材，再借助精确无比的高科技 「Gaggenau 蒸烤炉精 厨具。Vicky 说 ： 从不出错！这款嵌入式蒸烤炉的设计能 融合于每个厨房，连我都想为自己的新

Gaggenau 星级大师班烹饪课程

June 20, 2017, 1:00-4:00 pm Led by Chef Ip Chi Cheung, Executive Chinese Chef of two-Michelin-starred Summer Palace at Island Shangri-La Hong Kong 香港港岛香格里拉大酒店 米其林二星餐厅夏宫中餐主厨叶志祥

KI Island South Galleria, 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港黄竹坑香叶道2号One Island South 19楼. For enrollment details, please call 2890-1522/2890-9111 or email to events@kih.com.hk.

24

|

TK | nordic od yssey

茶熏乳鸽配玉米、 云南羊肚菌和咸鸭蛋

家添购一个！」

Gaggenau Culinary Artisans Masterclass May 9, 2017, 1:00-4:00 pm Led by Chef Mok Kit Keung, Executive Chinese Chef of two-Michelin-starred Shang Palace at Kowloon Shangri-La Hong Kong 香港九龙香格里拉大酒店 米其林二星餐厅香宫中餐行政主厨莫杰强

Tea-smoked pigeon with corn, Yunnan morels, and salted duck egg

致高效，操作非常方便，更重要的是它

RED DOG STUDIO (2), COURTESY OF GAGGENAU

GAGGENAU’S RECENT MASTERCLASS in Hong Kong makes it plain why Vicky Cheng, executive chef of the city’s

Vicky Cheng

CHEF & OWNER, V E A R E S TA U R A N T & L O U N G E , H O N G KO N G AT K I I S L A N D S O U T H G A L L E R I A

Gaggenau combi-steam oven and vacuuming drawer 400 series Gaggenau 400 系列蒸烤炉和真空抽屉

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

Jay Khan

GROUP BEVERAGE MANAGER F OXG L O V E , H O N G KO N G AT K I I S L A N D S O U T H G A L L E R I A

A Morning with Lavender Coffee 薰衣草咖啡之晨

Gaggenau espresso machine 400 series

RED DOG STUDIO (3), COURTESY OF GAGGENAU

Gaggenau 400 系列嵌入式 全自动咖啡机

CRITICALLY ACCLAIMED MIXOLOGIST Jay Khan was raised in Hong Kong, but the imagination he brings to his creative position as group beverage manager at Foxglove stems from a spectrum of global influences.

That’s clear to see in his creation for the Gaggenau Masterclass, a lovingly crafted concoction called A Morning with Lavender Coffee.

The idea for it was born out of nostalgia for his time in Melbourne, particularly a visit he made to a lavender farm outside the city. “Memories of sitting in its café, drinking espresso, and smelling the lavender,” he recalls, “are what inspired me to come up with these flavors.”

The most critical element in the drink is the perfect espresso shot, and in achieving it, the fully automatic Gaggenau espresso machine 400 series effortlessly delivers an ideal combination of crema, taste, and color. Its personalized programming allows full user control of strength levels, water temperature, coffee-to-milk ratio, and cup-size settings, and its maintenance-free ceramic grinders provide uniform, always-fresh grounds. Crafting the ultimate espresso is all about precision, something Gaggenau has mastered over its history of more than three hundred years of technological advancement.

Khan muddles a single lavender sprig and adds Rémy Martin Cognac infused with raw cacao nibs, Cointreau, demerara syrup, and the espresso. Then he introduces ice and shakes vigorously – in his trademark style – for ten seconds. The drink is double-strained into a chilled cocktail glass, dusted with chocolate powder, and garnished with dried citrus and a sprig of lavender. The result: a coffee hedonist’s supreme celebration of the perfect espresso.

知名酒吧 Foxglove 餐饮经理 Jay Khan 是位备受瞩目与赞 誉的调酒师，也是个土生土长的香港人，但他调制出的饮 品却融入了世界各地启迪的无限创意。他专为 Gaggenau 星 级 大 师 班 烹 饪 课 程 悉 心 创 造 的 调 酒 A Morning with

Lavender Coffee（薰衣草咖啡之晨）正是最好的例子。 「薰衣草咖啡之晨」是他对旅居墨尔本岁月的怀念之 作。Jay 曾造访一座位于墨尔本郊外的薰衣草农场。他回 想说 ： 「记得那时我坐在咖啡厅里，喝着浓缩咖啡，沐浴 在薰衣草香中，于是启发了我创造这综合风味咖啡的灵 感。 」 这道饮品的关键在于完美的浓缩咖啡。为至臻完美， 他使用 Gaggenau 400 系列嵌入式全自动咖啡机，轻松呈 现最完美的克力玛泡沫、风味与色泽。这台高科技咖啡机 具备个人化设定，让使用者全权掌控力道、水温、咖啡与 牛奶比例，还能預设分量。陶瓷刀磨豆机不需特别保养， 就能研磨出细致度一致、最新鲜的咖啡粉。要制作顶级浓 缩咖啡，关键全在于精确与否，而最了解这点的当非拥有 三百多年历史、至今仍持续精进铸造工艺的 Gaggenau 莫 属。 只见 Jay 将薰衣草枝放进调酒器中，倒入注有生可 可豆香气的人头马干邑、君度橙酒、德麦拉拉糖浆以及 浓缩咖啡。他小心地加入冰块，然后以他的招牌动作大 力摇荡十秒，再将咖啡进行双重过滤，倒至冰镇鸡尾酒杯， 然后在表面撒上巧克力粉，最后以干橘皮与薰衣草枝装 饰作结。这杯调酒绝对是咖啡享乐主义者对完美浓缩咖 啡的终极想望。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

27

NORDIC

BY MAMIE CHEN

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

28

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

An intrepid Finnish chef leads diners on a

ODYSSEY culinary voyage of revelation to the lands of the North.

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

29

30

|

TK | nordic od yssey

“Anytime I go back home to Finland, it’s an odyssey,” says Jaakko Sorsa, executive chef of FINDS, Hong Kong’s first authentically Nordic restaurant. “I’m always on a quest to find Nordic ingredients and supplies to bring back to the restaurant.”

After a full-tilt tour across the Nordics, Sorsa has returned, ideas spinning in his head, with three large suitcases full of the means to carry them out: self-foraged lichen and spruce branches, his mother’s homemade rowanberry jelly,

leipäjuusto (Lappish cheese), tar syrup, rakfisk (Norwegian fermented mountain trout), and much, much more.

Jaakko Sorsa, executive chef of FINDS

In deference to Sorsa’s Finnish heritage, the meal begins with an amusebouche from his home country. Pan-fried vendace from Lake Kitka are served with a sour cream and vendace roe dip. In place of a traditionally baked rye bread, the dough is dried and deep-fried into a deliciously thin rye bread crisp. The fish and crisp are presented atop a birch tree stump that Sorsa brought back from Finland. “The birch is the national tree of Finland,” he explains, “and it’s something we hold very dear to our hearts.”

Jaakko 为表达对家乡的崇 敬，这一餐先从一道芬兰餐 前小吃开始 ：将产自基特卡 湖白鳟鱼用油煎香，再淋上 酸奶油和白鳟鱼卵酱汁。他 不用传统烤裸麦面包，而是 先烘面包，再炸成美味的裸 麦面包脆片。鱼和脆面包放 置于 Jaakko 专程从芬兰带 回来的一小块桦树树桩上。 他解释道 ： 「桦树是芬兰的 国树，是我们内心十分珍视 的宝物。 」

32

|

TK | nordic od yssey

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

33

都是一趟艰险的旅程。我总是不停地寻找各 种有北欧风味的食材和用具，好带回香港。 」 在香港首家道地北欧餐厅 FINDS 担任行政总 厨的 Jaakko Sorsa 这么说。他在北欧绕了一 圈，回港时脑子里多了许多点子，还带了三 个大行李箱，装满能让点子成真的材料 ：自

Sorsa’s starting point for the Salmon Experience course begins with gravad lax, Sweden’s famous dillcured salmon. Along with the traditional salt and dill, he buries the salmon in beetroot in place of sugar, lending both sweetness and color, and cures it for a mere twenty-four hours, so the dry marinade acts “more like a seasoning than a preservative.”

It is served on a long board with five other forms of salmon, each uniquely prepared (clockwise, from bottom left): gravad lax, cold-smoked with dill, seared pastrami with fennel seeds and black pepper, mousse of hot-smoked salmon with potatoes and fennel, salmon roe with sour cream, and pickled salmon belly.

Jaakko 这一道「鲑鱼体验」， 重点是腌鲑鱼，也就是瑞典 着名的莳萝盐渍鲑鱼。除了 传统常用的盐和莳萝，Jaako 不用糖，而是把鲑鱼放入甜 菜根，仅腌二十四小时，就 有美妙的甜味与色泽。于是 偏干的盐渍鲑鱼尝起来「比 起腌物， 更像是经过调味的」 。 这道菜放在一块长木板 上，并列的还有其他五种鲑 鱼，每种做法都不同（从左 下角起，顺时钟方向）：盐渍 鲑鱼、冷熏鲑鱼配莳萝、烧 烤鲑鱼佐茴香籽和黑胡椒、 熏鲑鱼慕丝配马铃薯和茴香、 鲑鱼卵配酸奶油，最后是腌 鲑鱼腩。

己找来的地衣和云杉树枝、妈妈手工做的欧 洲 花 楸 果 果 冻、 拉 普 兰 经 典 美 食 面 包 奶 酪 、焦油糖浆以及挪威发酵鳟鱼 （leipäjuusto）

(rakfisk) 等等，不胜枚举。 这趟旅程对 Jaakko 来说意义非凡，时常 有机会看到其他厨师做菜，同时这些厨师还 「每 会一边说明烹饪技巧和哲学。Jaakko 说 ： 当外出公干时，我都是负责烹饪的那个人。

The trip was an unusual experience for Sorsa, who found himself on more than one occasion observing another chef preparing dishes and explaining cooking techniques and philosophy. “Normally when I travel for work, I’m the one doing the cooking. It’s quite fun just to watch and eat!” Instead of teaching and influencing others, his mission was to find inspiration for his new Nordic Odyssey tasting menu, an updated reprise of his successful Nordic Express menu from 2013. Once again, Sorsa has created a mapbased list of selections, this time including the origins and background stories for an entirely new set of dishes. “It’s great to travel around and see the ingredients and experience how they’re preparing them locally – now I have some great stories to share with my guests.”

S o r s a p l a ce s e n o r m o u s va l u e o n researching and understanding where his ingredients come from. He has previously collaborated with WWF to release an oceanfriendly menu, and he was excited on this particular trip to tour a Norwegian salmon farm. “People have a lot of questions about farmed salmon, so I have to be able to explain it,” he says. “I’ve seen photos, but you never know how much of it is marketing. It was a happy and eye-opening experience.” He visited a facility located in the crystal-clear waters of the fjords near Tussøya, seeing for himself the space allocated to the fish and hearing about their rearing process. He even tasted the feed pellets and made an assessment: intensely concentrated fishy flavor that might go well with congee.

现 在 只 要 看 别 人 做 而 自 己 负 责 吃， 满 有 趣 的！」这趟北欧美食之旅是为了新的「Nordic

Odyssey」菜单寻找灵感。Jaakko 在 2013 年 推出的「Nordic Express」菜单非常成功，而 新套餐正是该菜单的更新版本。他再一次在 北欧许多地区找到绝佳食材，这次推出一组 全新菜单，每道菜都有其起源和故事。Jaakko 说： 「能够到处旅行，看当地人运用哪些食材， 体验当地人的做菜过程，真的很棒。 」

Jaakko 认为多做研究，了解食材的起源 极其重要。他先前与世界自然基金会共同开 发一款以可持续海鲜作为食材的菜单，这次 他对于能负责带团参观挪威鲑鱼养殖场，深 「大家对养殖鲑鱼提出很 感兴奋。Jaakko 说 ： 多问题，我必须能够一一回答。我看过照片， 但你不晓得有多少是行销的假象。这次旅程 叫人大开眼界，真的很开心。 」他参观的养殖 机构位于水质无比清澈、靠近挪威图斯岛的 峡湾。他亲身了解每条鱼分配到的空间，听 那里的人介绍养殖过程。Jaakko 甚至还尝了 鱼饲料，评价是鱼味极浓郁，很适合配粥。 另一天，他登上挪威捕虾船，看他们如何 作业，还和一个产品经销商聊起天来，讨论这 款虾子运到香港的可能性。 挪威人喜欢购买 直接在船上煮熟的鲜虾，但问题是 Jaakko 要 「要经销商去说 的是冷冻生虾。Jaakko 解释 ： 服渔民改变平常处理、运送虾子的方式，只 为了配合我们的需要，不是三言两语就说得 清楚。假如我光是从香港打个电话来，他们 又不认识我，大概不肯淌这趟浑水。但我亲 自来到挪威，上了他们的船，便可以和他们

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

35

A favorite Norwegian summertime indulgence is a shrimp party, where friends and family gather and socialize while peeling their own shrimp and piling them high on white bread with butter, mayonnaise, and a squeeze of fresh lemon.

FINDS throws an upscale affair with a luminous Iittala platter of lightly blanched and cold-smoked shrimp, accompanied by fennel-cumin bread crisps, mayonnaise and sour cream sauce, and dill, and finished with a glass of Linie aquavit. 挪威人夏天最爱开虾子派对， 邀集朋友和家人聚在一起， 愉快地谈笑，一面剥去虾壳， 把虾肉高高地堆在白面包上， 加上奶油、美乃滋，挤一、 两滴新鲜柠檬汁。 FINDS 餐 厅也举办高级虾子派对，餐 厅把冷熏白虾肉放在芬兰知

While observing the activities onboard a Norwegian shrimping boat on another day, he struck up a conversation with the product distributor about the possibility of getting their shrimp in Hong Kong. But there was a catch: Norwegians generally prefer to buy shrimp boiled live on the boat, but Sorsa needs them frozen raw.

“It can be a complex process for the distributor to convince fishermen to change the way they handle and deliver the shrimp just for us, and they might not have been willing to go through the trouble if I were just some random guy calling from Hong Kong,” says Sorsa. “But because I was in Norway, there on the boat, I was able to make a connection and they were willing to do it for me.” As a result, he’ll be able to serve his guests virtually the same shrimp that he sampled fresh while sailing the Lyngen Fjord.

Sorsa’s Nordic Odyssey tasting menu, launching in June, will take guests on a flavor journey through the five countries that make up the FINDS acronym – Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, as well as the far-northern region of Lapland. “All of the courses on the menu represent wellknown dishes from each country that its people would immediately recognize,” he says. Among them are a make-your-own smørrebrød (open-faced sandwich) platter with three types of marinated herring, including the Danish favorite of curried herring; a salmon experience, featuring Sweden’s famous gravad lax along with five other preparations of various cuts of the fish; Icelandic snacks of dried lamb leg and fried potato cakes with saltfiskur (salted cod ); cold-smoked Norwegian shrimp; pickled spruce shoot, karjalanpaisti (Karelian stew), and pan-fried Lake Kitka muikku (vendace) from Finland; and lichen, tar syrup, and the aforementioned leipäjuusto cheese from Lapland.

名品牌 Iittala 瓷盘上，佐以 茴香和孜然提味的脆面包、 美乃滋和酸奶油混合的酱汁 以及莳萝，最后配上一杯阿 夸维特烈酒。

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

37

38

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

39

A wolf-husky hybrid from Finnish Lapland’s Levi Husky Park, operated by sled dog racing champion Reijo Jääskeläinen. 它是狼与哈士奇犬的混种，来自雪橇犬跑步大赛冠军得主 Reijo Jääskeläinen 所经营的莱维哈士奇公园。

“The forest is important to Finns in the same way that the sea is important to Norwegians,” says Sorsa.

“We go to the forest to relax and clear our minds, and we go there to forage.

Children are taught to walk carefully between the trees and bushes without breaking branches and to pick only as much as they can eat.” He recreates a Finnish forest with spruce and lingonberry branches, where he tucks away two spoons that hold morsels of pickled spruce shoot and pan-fried trumpet mushroom and a pungent sauce with black garlic and celery root. 「森林对芬兰人 Jaakko 说 ： 来说很重要，好比大海在 挪威人心中的地位。我们会 去森林里放松，让思绪更清

Some of the ingredients are more exotic than others, but Sorsa is well-versed in how to identify the best representative Nordic flavors and introduce them in a suitable manner to the world beyond. As a Finnish celebrity chef, he has prepared state dinners for visiting dignitaries at the nation’s presidential palace and has partnered with Finnair to create his Signature Menu for business-class service on flights from Hong Kong to Helsinki.

40

|

TK | nordic od yssey

He recognizes, for example, that the smørrebrød course with Danish herring is an ideal way to encourage his guests to try a varied selection of the marinated fish: “They may realize how good herring can taste when eaten with the proper condiments.”

Taking inspiration from both everyday meals and festive occasions across all of Scandinavia, Sorsa, by adding his own creative touches and modernizations, has mastered a finessed approach to presenting distinctively Nordic dishes that intrigue and delight palates around the world.

晰，也在那里找寻食物。小 孩被教导走过树木及树丛 时要小心，别碰断树枝，而 且只捡拾自己要吃的东西， 绝不多捡。 」他用云杉和越 橘树枝再现芬兰森林之美， 底下放着两根小匙，上面是 一小撮腌云杉芽和煎过的 平菇，搭配黑蒜和芹菜根酿 制的辣酱。

Generally speaking, the classic Icelandic fish stew can best be described as a home-style casserole made from the previous day’s leftover fish.

Plokkfiskur (mashed fish) is as mundane as its name: flaked cod is mixed with boiled potatoes and a white sauce of butter, flour, and milk, then topped with cheese and grilled until light brown.

Sorsa adds a welcome touch of modernity by shaping salted cod and mashed potatoes into balls, deep-frying them like Scandinavian-style croquettes, and serving them with a simple traditional sauce of butter, cream, lemon juice, and parsley. 一般说来，对这道冰岛经典

Two stone trolls adorn the base of a pilaster on the old Pohjola Insurance building in central Helsinki. 赫尔辛基市中心的波赫尤拉旧保险大楼，壁柱底座刻着两尊巨魔。

建立联系，而他们也愿意帮我。 」因此他才

威虾 ；芬兰的有腌云杉芽、卡里亚拉炖肉和

有办法把亲自试吃过的新鲜虾子，从林根峡

油煎产自基特卡湖的白鳟鱼 ；还有产自拉普

湾运到香港，给餐厅的客人品尝。

兰的地衣、焦油糖浆，以及之前提过的拉普

炖鱼最恰当的形容是 ：用昨

Jaakko 新 开 发 的 菜 单 叫 做「Nordic

晚没吃完的鱼制成的家庭自

Odyssey」，将在今年六月推出，引领客人品

。 兰经典美食面包奶酪「leipäjuusto」

制砂锅炖菜。家常鱼泥

尝来自北欧五国的美味。也就是这家餐厅名

Jaakko 懂得巧妙安排这些具代表性的北欧滋

( Plokkfiskur) ，一如此名，

字的缩写 ：这家餐厅名字 FINDS 正是代表了

味，烹制出其他地区民众也喜爱的味道。身

这道是极平凡的菜 ：鳕鱼切

这些国家的首字缩写，包括芬兰 (Finland)、

为芬兰知名大厨，他在总理府安排过国宴，

片混合水煮马铃薯，加上以

冰 岛 (Iceland)、 挪 威 (Norway)、 丹 麦

招待来访政要 ；也与芬兰航空合作，为香港

黄油、面粉和牛奶混制的酱

(Denmark) 及 瑞 典 (Sweden)， 其 实 还 包 括

飞往赫尔辛基的商务舱提供「招牌菜单」 。

汁，放上起司后入烤箱烤成

了最北端的拉普兰。他说 ： 「菜单上的每道

浅棕色。 Jaakko 让这道菜

菜都是这五个国家的知名美食，当地人一看

适合用来鼓励客人尝试不同制法的腌鱼。他

增添现代趣味，把盐腌鳕

便知。 」这些菜式包括「自制开放式三明治」 ，

认为 ： 「这能让客人了解，只要选对调味，

鱼和马铃薯泥搓成球状后再

有三种鲱鱼任君挑选作为馅料，其中包括丹

鲱鱼真的超好吃。 」Jaakko 从整个北欧的家

炸，制成斯堪的纳维亚风格

麦人最爱的咖喱鲱鱼； 另一道是「鲑鱼体验」 ，

常菜和宴会佳肴中汲取灵感，再加上独具现

的炸丸子。享用时蘸上由黄

主打瑞典有名的盐渍鲑鱼，并用五种不同做

代感的巧思创意，搭配他炉火纯青的手艺，

油、鲜奶油、柠檬汁和香芹

法烹调鱼的不同部位；冰岛的小吃有干羊腿、

不仅完整呈现北欧菜的特点，更吸引到世界

做成的传统蘸酱。

炸马铃薯饼配盐腌鳕鱼 ；挪威的则是冷熏挪

各地的饕客前来尝鲜，让他们满载而归。

有些食材或许过于具有异国风情，但

他发现开放式三明治跟丹麦鲱鱼很搭，

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

43

“Pancakes are really enjoyed in every Nordic country,” says Sorsa. Though it might be a stretch to say that every family has a cast-iron pancake pan passed down through the generations, it is more common than one might think. “So rather than make a dessert platter with something from every country, I decided to serve a pancake party.” Homemade condiments include drottningsilt jam of raspberries and blueberries, sugared lingonberries, cognac cream, and fresh raspberries, blueberries, and cloudberries macerated in their own syrups.

44

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

「北欧人都很爱吃松饼。 」Jaakko 说，虽然声称 家家户户都有传承数代的铁铸松饼锅似有些夸 大其词，但北欧人绝对比你想像中更常吃松饼。 他认为 ： 「与其在点心盘上摆满各国甜点，不如 来一场松饼盛宴。 」松饼搭配的自制蘸酱，包括 覆盆子和蓝莓酱、糖腌越橘、干邑白兰地鲜奶油， 以及内含新鲜覆盆子、蓝莓和云莓的莓果糖浆。

Sorsa takes measure of a small reindeer in Finnish Lapland.

Jaakko在拉普兰为小驯鹿测量尺寸。

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

45

养尊处优的极品猪

HIGH ON THE HOG A Finnish farmer delivers on the promise of Nordic quality, purity, and ethical care.

DAVID HARTUNG

PRESENTED BY HKSCAN

ON A FAMILY-OWNED PIG FARM 170 kilometers northwest of Helsinki, producers Marko and Anne Onnela warmly welcome guests with an invitation: “We always recommend you take a sauna bath before visiting Finnish farms.” Their suggestion is perhaps less an encouragement for guests to enjoy the quintessential Finnish cultural ritual than it is an effort to protect the health of their sixteenhundred-head herd. On the Onnela pig farm, as is the case with all the others contracted by leading Nordic meat supplier HKScan, the top priority is healthy animal production. It starts with rigorous hygiene practices and strict biosecurity protocols and extends to humane animal welfare conditions.

The Onnelas’ farm in the small town of Ylhäinen is one of ten that produce HKScan’s award-winning omega-3 pork, an innovative meat product that contains more than four times the amount of omega-3 fatty acids as regular pork and has low saturated fat levels comparable to those of chicken and turkey.

In fact, Marko was one of a handful of farmers who were selected to partner with HKScan and respected Finnish research institutes to test and refine the pigs’ diet and rearing methodology in order to increase the meat’s omega-3 levels.

“We were the first farm in Finland

– actually, the world – to use rapeseed,” says Marko. He now grows and mills his own crop to produce the omega-3-rich rapeseed oil and protein-rich meal that form the foundation of the pigs’ diet, along with locally grown or produced GMOfree carbohydrate and protein sources that include barley, broad beans, and wet distillers grains. And he uses his own pig manure to fertilize his fields. “As a farmer, I like that all the parts of the feed come from Finnish fields around me,” says Onnela. “It’s a sustainable circle and also economical.”

The results prove the maxim that pigs are what they eat. Rapeseed gives the pork a purer, fresher taste, and the omega-3 fat content makes it tenderer and juicier. Japanese buyers so highly trust the quality of the HKScan’s omega-3 pork that they sell it for consumption as raw sashimi.

In Hong Kong, HKScan has found a market that appreciates high quality imports. “The omega-3 pork is a very chef-friendly product,” says Jaakko Sorsa, executive chef of FINDS in Hong Kong.

“The fat content makes it so easy to prepare. For example, omega-3 pork belly cooks quickly and is naturally tender. I once demoed it by simply rubbing it with salt and roasting in an oven at 200°C for fifty minutes on a tray lined with water

赫尔辛基西北约 170 公里处有座家族养猪 场， 农 场 主 人 Marko Onnela 及 Anne Onnela 夫妇一向热情好客，他们总是说 ： 「在 参观芬兰农场前，推荐大家先洗个桑拿浴。」 在鼓励客人们享受纯正芬兰文化洗礼的同 时，夫妇俩更是在努力维护 1,600 头猪只 的健康。与北欧肉品供应企业 HKScan 所 有合约商一样，Onnela 养猪场最关注的是 动物的健康与权益，并致力落实一丝不苟 的卫生作业流程，遵守严格的生物安全管 理准则，以及创造保障动物权益又基于人 道主义立场的养殖条件。 HKScan 旗下有十个获大奖肯定的奥米 加 3 猪肉生产基地，而位于 Ylhäinen 小镇 的 Onnela 养猪场就是其中之一。此种创新 的猪肉产品比起传统猪肉多 4 倍以上的奥 米加 3 脂肪酸，但饱和脂肪比例较低，与 鸡肉及火鸡肉相仿。作为少数几个被选中 的猪农之一，Marko、HKScan 及当地权威 研究机构一起合作，不断测试、改良猪只 的饮食及养殖方法，以提升猪肉的奥米加 3 含量。 Marko 自豪地说 ： 「我们是芬兰，也是 世界首家使用油菜花作饲料的养猪场。 」他 们自行栽种并研磨作物，制造富含奥米加 3 的油菜花油及蛋白质丰富的餐食，以此作 为猪只饲料的基底，再混搭本地生产或制 造的无基因改造碳水化合物及大麦、蚕豆 和偏湿的酿酒谷物等蛋白质来源。猪粪也 被回收再利用为农地的肥料。Marko 表示 ： 「我自己是猪农出身，希望饲料的各种成分 均来自四周的芬兰土地。这不仅是永续循 环的发展模式，也是相当符合经济效益的。 」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

47

Showcasing the before and after, Onnela holds whole rapeseed in his left hand and milled rapeseed in his right.

Marko Onnela为了展示研磨前后的 对比，左手捧着油菜花籽，右手上 的则是经研磨后的油菜花籽。

48

|

TK | nordic od yssey

and bay leaves – that’s it. The Chinese chefs just couldn’t believe it!”

Onnela defers to chefs for assessments of omega-3 pork’s flavor profile, preferring instead to focus on what he can do to control and improve production and animal welfare. He divides the herd on his farm into nine age groups and must fatten them on a clockwork schedule from an average of 30 kg to 120 kg within a fourteen-week cycle. During that time, it’s critical that Onnela provide the pigs a favorable living environment to reduce stress and social disharmony, and the proof of his success is in their curlicued tails.

Piglets initially scatter in alarm when Onnela leads a small group of visitors through the barns. But before long, their natural curiosity overcomes skittish nerves, and they return to poking inquisitive noses through the fencing, their corkscrew tails wagging in content. “All around the world, it’s very rare to see pigs with tails,” he says. “But to the farmers, they’re actually very good indicators. If you see tails in bad condition, then you know there’s something wrong.” Pigs often bite

事实证明，猪只确实是吃什么长什 么。油菜花让猪肉口感更加清爽、新鲜， 奥米加 3 脂肪酸则造就了嫩滑、多汁的 肉质。日本买家对于 HKScan 生产的奥 米加 3 猪肉品质深具信心，甚至用来做 猪肉刺身的食材原料。 在香港，HKScan 也找到懂得品评高 品质进口肉品的市场。香港知名北欧餐厅 「FINDS」行政总厨 Jaakko Sorsa 表示： 「对 于厨师而言，奥米加 3 猪肉是用起来得心 应手的食材，脂肪含量适中，准备起来相 当容易。比如，奥米加 3 猪腩肉的肉质天 生软嫩，所需的烹调时间短。我有次只是 简单用盐抹过，摆到加了少许水及月桂叶 的烤盘上，然后放入烤箱用 200°C 烤了 50 分钟而已，成品就已经无懈可击，好 吃到连中国厨师们几乎无法相信！」 Marko 觉得奥米加 3 猪肉风味的评 比是属于厨师的专业，而他只想把分内 的事做好，竭尽所能地管控改善养殖过 程以及保障动物权益。他依年龄将猪群 分 成 9 大 组， 以 14 周 为 一 个 周 期， 按 表操课喂食，将猪只从平均 30 公斤养至 120 公 斤。 这 段 时 间 内，Marko 必 须 为 猪只提供最舒适的居住环境，减少压力 及群居冲突，而卷曲的猪尾巴正是豢养 得当的最好证据。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

PRESENTED BY HKSCAN

Chef Sorsa presents his famous crackling omega-3 pork belly with sweetly sour red cabbage (rødkaal), blanched brussels sprout leaves, pickled onions, pickled mustard seeds, parsley, and kikuna leaves. 总厨Jaakko Sorsa烹调的奥米加3猪腩肉 搭配紫椰菜、烫过的抱子甘蓝、腌渍洋 葱、腌渍芥菜籽，欧芹和春菊叶。

each others’ tails out of stress or boredom, he explains, and the bites can lead to infection.

One piglet wanders his own pen in solitary confinement. “Here’s one who’s been biting tails, and we don’t know why,” says Onnela. The animal was immediately separated from the others for testing with a mix of dry and liquid feed to identify a possible source of stress. In the neighboring pen, a number of his former playmates sport markings to indicate that they’re being treated with penicillin for bitten tails.

50

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Out of the fourteen hundred pigs on the farm, fewer than ten – less than 1 percent of the total – are currently being medicated, and within a week, the number will most likely be down to zero. These statistics are typical for all of HKScan’s omega-3 pig farms, where the use of antibiotics is extremely limited compared to the rest of the world. “All over Europe and the world, it’s quite common to use the broad-spectrum antibiotic tetracycline,” says Onnela, “which is good for everything but not good

for anything. Personally, I limit myself to the use of penicillin, which is a specific treatment for a certain type of bacteria. The key message is that I don’t think farmers should use antibiotics as a management tool – they need to find another way.”

Onnela manages animal stress by providing the pigs with wooden toys and salted sisal ropes for chewing. On the solid floor that covers most of their space, he spreads anything from wood shavings to straw or old newspapers, and occasionally nothing

DAVID HARTUNG

PRESENTED BY HKSCAN

at all. “Pigs are quite intelligent animals.

You need to change things or they’ll get bored.”

The ambient temperature is carefully monitored for the sensitive animals and raised or lowered in increments of a tenth of a degree. Onnela is renting a neighboring farm, where he’s had the opportunity to test pens that give each pig more room. The positive results have inspired plans to make the change on his own farm by early summer. “We see

the difference in animal behavior,” he explains, “it’s much better when the pigs have a little bit more space.” It means more room at the trough at feeding time and more room to sleep on the flooring, factors that make a big difference for the smaller pigs at the lower end of each group’s established hierarchy. “This is what farming is about,” says Onnela.

“You need to be very practical, and you need to find those small things that make the difference.”

他带着一小群访客穿过猪圈时，小猪 先是出于警戒一哄而散，但天生的好奇心 旋即压过紧张神经，不一会便探出猪鼻不 断试探，螺旋状的尾巴则满足地晃来晃去。 他说明： 「世界各地都很少看到有尾巴的猪， 但尾巴对猪农来说是绝佳的判断指标。尾 巴状况不好的话，可能代表出了什么问题。」 猪只常因压力或无聊互咬尾巴，咬痕有可 能造成感染。 下一刻只见一只小猪形单影只，在自 己的猪圈里晃荡。Marko 表示 ： 「这只很爱 咬尾巴，但找不出原因。」随后，他即刻将 猪仔与其他猪只隔离，喂以干湿混和饲料 进行测试，试图寻找可能的压力源。隔壁 猪圈则可看到猪仔的好几只玩伴已加上标 签，代表咬伤的尾巴已施以盘尼西林治疗。 整座养猪场 1,400 头猪里，仅有不到 10 头，即低于 1% 的猪正在接受治疗。再 过一周，数量可能就趋近于零了。这样的 低发病率实属正常，因为 HKScan 的奥米 加 3 养猪场有别于世界其他地区，严格规 定抗生素的使用。Marko 强调 ： 「放眼欧洲 乃及全世界，使用抗生素可说平常，看似 好处说不完，实则不然。我个人作法是尽 量不用盘尼西林，那是专门用来治疗特定 细菌种类的。我认为猪农不该把抗生素当 成管理的工具，他们应当另寻他法。」 Marko 对于舒缓动物压力也相当有一 套。他给猪只提供玩具，准备带咸味的剑 麻绳让它们咬着玩。猪只的活动空间几乎 全是地板。Marko 有时会铺上木屑、稻草 或旧报纸等，有时则什么都不放。他说： 「猪 很聪明，一定要保持变化，不然它们容易 生厌。」 为了照顾特别敏感的猪只，养猪场内 的温度也需要悉心管控，以 0.1 度为单位， 上下精密调整。Marko 租了隔壁的农场， 测试若猪圈更大会对猪只产生什么影响。 由于效果理想，猪只更健康，他决定初夏 时也在自己的农场发展更大的猪圈。他解 释道 ： 「我们看到不同的动物行为，猪只 能有多一点空间会更好。」这代表猪圈里 会有更大的喂食槽区以及更大的空间供猪 只躺着睡觉。对于位处各群落权力金字塔 底端的小猪来说，这空间的差别可谓相当 大。Marko 指出 ： 「养殖就是这么一回事， 要很务实，从小处着手，改变正是从小细 节而来。」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

51

LEVI FOCUS

POLAR ATTRACTION

52

|

TK | nordic od yssey

In work and life, an audacious entrepreneur finds inspiration in the subarctic beauty of her homeland.

By Mamie Chen, Photography by David Hartung

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

53

A

ARRIVING IN THE MIDDLE OF MARCH when the ground lies deep beneath the endless white and lengthening days drift between crystal blue and silent snowfall, it’s easy to succumb to the spell of Finnish Lapland as the archetypal wonderland of winter. But beyond its undeniable scenic splendors, there’s a great deal more to be discovered.

Levi, for instance. As one of northern Europe’s major holiday destinations, Levi centers around a world-class ski resort that annually hosts two slalom competitions in the early rounds of the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup. In addition to the Levi Black racecourse, the resort services a hundred acres of ski slopes and terrain parks for leisure skiers and snowboarders, with a good number of the forty-five pistes illuminated to extend the excitement into the polar night. And with guests spread across so many varied activities, Levi’s lift queues, unlike those at many of the world’s other premium ski havens, never seem long.

The high moorlands of the Finnish fell are ripe for exploration. There’s a well-maintained network of snowmobile routes (nearly 900 km), snowshoe and fatbike trails (22 km), and cross-country ski tracks (230 km, of which 28 are illuminated). The less strenuously inclined can experience the exhilaration of flying across the snowy expanses from the comfort of a sledge drawn by reindeer or huskies. With ice fishing, ice castles, and northern-lights-gazing in the winter and golfing, hiking, fishing, river rafting, and mountain biking in warmer months, the list is replete before even touching on that most Finnish of pursuits, the ritual of the sauna.

54

|

TK | nordic od yssey

时序进入三月中旬，大地还深藏于一片无尽 雪白之下，水晶般湛蓝及悄然无声的降雪是 长昼的日常，无人能抗拒原始冬日天堂拉普 兰 (Lapland) 的魔力。除了令人屏息的自然 奇观外，这个位于芬兰北端的仙境还有许多 好玩的地方值得游客来探索。 芬 兰 最 热 门 的 度 假 胜 地 莱 维 (Levi)， 位于欧洲北部，附近便是世界级的滑雪度 假村。这里每年主办国际滑雪联合会高山 滑雪世界杯 (FIS Alpine Ski World Cup) 分站 赛事的两大障碍赛。除了莱维的专家级黑 色竞道外，为了休闲旅游而来的滑雪及單 板滑雪爱好者也有上百英亩的坡道及雪地 公园可以使用。度假村还配套了带照明设 备的 45 条滑雪道，让入夜后的极地依旧刺 激不断。度假村内活动相当丰富、 五花八门， 游客分散各处，因而此地的雪场缆车不像 世界其他一流滑雪圣地般，每每大排长龙。 位于芬兰山丘高处的荒原也相当值得 一去。雪地交通网络四通八达、维护状况相 当良好，包含雪上摩托车道 ( 近 900 公里 )、 雪靴及雪地越野单车道 (22 公里 ) 以及跨国 滑雪道 (230 公里，其中 28 公里设有照明设 备 )。不想花太多气力的人可以试试驯鹿或 哈士奇拉雪橇，体验在雪白大地上飞驰的快 感。冬日可以冰上钓鱼、逛冰堡及赏极光， 而暖和的月份则可以选择高尔夫、 徒步旅行、 钓鱼、皮划艇及自行车登山等活动，娱乐设 施应有尽有。旅客也别忘了找机会体验一下 芬兰最出名的活动－桑拿浴。

LEVI FOCUS

Roosa the elf peers from the window of a hut in the Elves Hideaway at Tonttula Tonttula精灵隐居处的小屋中， 精灵同伴Roosa从窗户探头而出

LEVI FOCUS

56

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

57

LEVI FOCUS

58

|

TK | nordic od yssey

I

IF MUCH OF THE REST OF THE WORLD enjoys four varied seasons and erroneously pigeonholes Finnish Lapland as one interminable winter, the locals appreciate each individual month as its own distinct “season.” With poetic precision, Päivikki Palosaari, owner of Levi’s legendary Hullu Poro resort, delineates the year:

In January, we leave behind the darkest days and start to see the sun for the first time, gaining one hour more of daylight with every week. The sun shines low on the horizon, painting everything in pastel colors.

In February, we get more snow than any other month, and everything gets covered in pure white cotton balls of snow.

In March, the snowfall decreases and what’s on the ground gets more compressed. The snow is harder and shinier.

In April, the snow changes again. Glittering and glimmering in the sunshine, the hard surface is like frosted gold.

In May, the sun shines throughout most of the day and night. One dark patch after another appears on the slopes.

And when you walk through the forest, you can almost hear the leaves growing out of the birch trees, they grow so quickly! It’s a magical moment every year when the ice starts to flow in the river and suddenly the entire river is free.

In June, the grass is such a vibrant green that it couldn’t get greener, and everywhere is filled with yellow flowers of different varieties.

In July, we see a darker green in the fields and forests, and the first blueberry bushes begin to bear fruit.

In August, the colors start to come out. We still have a green base, but now we see golden-brown wild mushrooms and pops of red lingonberries and amber cloudberries in the forests. The flowers bloom in different shades of purple.

In September, the brilliant autumn colors of “ruska” are everywhere, from the ground up to the treetops. The land is ablaze in vivid yellows, flaming oranges, and rich reds.

In October, the nights are finally dark enough to see the northern lights active in the sky again. The rain freezes on the trees and looks like little sparkling diamonds dotting the forests.

In November, the days are very short and the nights are very long. Everyone and everything seems to be preparing for the winter spell.

In December, the sun doesn’t even rise and, without any sunshine at all, the temperature can drop to -30° or even -40°C. A lot of families are coming to experience the holidays in Lapland.

Palosaari admits, “The extremes in Lapland can take some getting used to. December and January can be so dark and confining that it feels like you’re living in a bottle.

And in the summertime, you can’t figure out when to go to sleep because the midnight sun shines all day and the night never comes. But with time, you can begin to appreciate nature constantly changing around you.” nordic odyssey

|

TK |

59

A Lappish reindeer feast in a Sami-style hut at Restaurant Kammi 在萨米人小屋风格的「Kammi」 餐厅享用拉普兰驯鹿大餐

LEVI FOCUS

世界许多地方的人们或者都偏好特色分明的四季，而 当谈及芬兰拉普兰时，又误认为这里只有漫漫长冬。 不 过， 在 当 地 人 眼 中， 拉 普 兰 的 每 一 个 月 份 都 是 有 着不一样的面貌，各是独特的「季节」 。作为莱维最 具传奇色彩的度假村「Hullu Poro」的业主，Päivikki

Palosaari 以诗刻划当地一年的十二个月。 一月，漫长的黑暗日子远去，太阳再次升起，每 周白昼增加一个小时，太阳在地平线低处闪耀，将万 物染上粉嫩色泽。 二月，雪量之多，为一年之最，棉花般的纯白雪 球覆盖大地。 三月，降雪减少，地上的雪更加紧实，质地更硬， 不断闪出光芒。 四月，雪再次出现变化，在阳光下闪闪发光，坚 硬的表面犹如冻结的黄金。 五月，阳光照耀昼夜。山坡上出现影子，一个接 着一个。漫步森林时，桦树树叶不断长出，声声入耳， 速度极快！一年一遇的神奇时刻，融冰流入河中，整 条河突然奔腾不息。 六月，草木葱郁，鲜绿欲滴，各地可见不同种类 的黄花竞艳。 七月，田园及森林渗出一丝深绿，第一批蓝莓丛 开始结果。 八月，颜色缤纷。以绿色为基底，森林可见金棕 色野生蘑菇、大批红色越橘及琥珀色云莓。花团锦簇， 各种紫色花朵，应有尽有。 。 九月，平地到树顶，到处都是绝美的秋色「ruska」 鲜黄、火红橘色及艳红于大地跌宕交错。 十月，入夜一片漆黑，极北之光于天空闪耀。雨 滴于树上冻结，犹如一颗颗妆点森林的钻石。 十一月，日照极短，长夜漫漫。万物准备迎接冬 日魔咒。 十二月，太阳不再升起，日照不再，气温陡降至 零下 30° 什或 40°C，恰是许多家庭合家前往拉普兰欢 度佳节的好时机。 「拉普兰的极端天候确实需要点时 Päivikki 直言 ： 间去适应。十二月和一月天色极暗，能去的地方有限， 有种被关在罐子里生活的感觉。到了夏天，何时该睡

A Fjellfinn cocktail of cloudberry liqueur and vodka, garnished with an ice bowl of fresh cloudberries 北欧Fjellfinn鸡尾酒以云莓酒及伏特加调制而成， 再放上盛于冰碗的新鲜云莓装饰即大功告成

觉则让人伤透脑筋，夜半阳光普照，根本没有夜晚。 但过些时日，就能渐渐体会周遭大自然不断更迭变化 的奥秘。 」

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

61

A LEVI FOCUS

AS A YOUNG ADULT, Palosaari couldn’t wait to get away from Lapland, and it took a decade of living and working away from her homeland before she came to respect and cherish it as an idyllic paradise. Now she thrills when introducing its unearthly beauty to domestic and international tourists. “For people looking to experience something completely different, Lapland can be an exotic place, a mythical place.”

Palosaari has made it her business to identify people’s desires for unique adventure and to meet them. She started out more than thirty years ago, while still working fulltime at Levi’s first major hotel, with a simple kiosk selling grilled reindeer that she called Porogrilli. She decided on a kiosk because it didn’t require much start-up capital, and she chose reindeer as a Lappish staple that’s both iconic and unfamiliar, a draw for both locals and tourists. Later, she came up with the name Hullu Poro (crazy reindeer) for her burgeoning business. “Tourists toting their bags were just passing my hut right by. I thought if I gave it a funny name, they’d be curious enough to stop and check it out. And that’s exactly what happened.”

Palosaari has since turned her side businesses into a virtual empire of twenty restaurants seating 6,500 guests and five hotels and other accommodations with 600 beds.

As Levi’s ski resort grew, Hullu Poro grew hand in hand along with it. Remarkably, she has expanded her operations entirely by reinvesting profits and continues to own 100 percent of her company. “Each time I thought of a new restaurant concept or considered enlarging the hotel, the business was already there to support it,” she says. “Yes, Hullu Poro did grow because there were more skiers coming to Levi, but then again, more skiers were drawn to Levi because of our services and accommodations.”

Part visionary, part rebel, Palosaari has never settled for the status quo and has invariably trusted her gut instincts about how to do business. She credits her two sets of grandparents, nearly opposites in background and values, with her success in Levi as an independent entrepreneur.

Her paternal grandparents, farmers from Lapland who lived off the land, shared her love and respect for their natural surroundings and helped nurture in her a resilient character with the determination to support herself through long winters and tough times.

62

|

TK | nordic od yssey

成年之际，Päivikki 迫不及待要离开拉普兰。 在离开家乡生活及工作了 10 年之后，她才体悟 到如诗如画的家乡是多么值得崇敬及珍惜，所 以 Päivikki 现在便乐此不疲地将如仙境般的家 乡美景介绍给国内及国际游客。她说 ： 「对于寻 求前所未有体验的人来说，拉普兰异国风情十 足，充满神秘色彩。 」

Päivikki 的事业目标是找出客人的心中所 想，然后给他们安排一场独一无二的冒险旅程。

30 多年前，她在莱维第一家大型酒店有着一份 全职工作。那时，她就开始创业了，以专卖烤 驯鹿肉的小摊起家。她口中的小摊「Porogrilli」 无须太多创业资本，而选择拉普兰主食之一驯 鹿肉是看中其代表性及异国风味，尝过的人不 多，对于本地及外地客人同样具有吸引力。后 来，她为自己正在萌芽茁壮的生意取了个名字 」 。她说 ： 「拖着包 「Hullu Poro（疯狂的驯鹿 ） 包的游客可能完全没注意到我的小店就直接走 过了，所以我想我必须为小店取个好玩的名字， 或许能引发他们的好奇心进来看看。这招果然 奏效了。 」

Päivikki 的副业蒸蒸日上，后来更是发展 成大型餐饮酒店王国，包括可容纳 6,500 名客 人的 20 间餐厅以及共计 600 个床位的 5 间酒 店和其他住宿设施。 「Hullu Poro」跟着莱维发 展正盛的滑雪度假村产业一同起飞，Päivikki 藉 由利润继续投资并持续扩大事业版图，而且还 持续掌控公司百分之百的所有权，事业成绩让 人印象深刻。她透露 ： 「每当我有新的餐厅计划 或扩大酒店规模的想法时，恰逢整体产业发展 也都很好，一切水到渠成。 『Hullu Poro』能不 断成长得益于不断壮大的滑雪游客群体，但换 个角度来说，很多人也是因为我们的服务及酒 店住宿才会想来造访莱维。 」 时 而 远 见 明 察， 时 而 放 荡 不 羁，Päivikki 从不安于现状。她对自己充满信心，可说是靠 直觉在做生意。她把成就归功于爷爷奶奶及外 公外婆。正是因为在他们近乎南辕北辙的成长 背景及价值观的影响之下，莱维才能有这位成 功独立的创业家。Päivikki 的爷爷奶奶都是拉普 兰的农夫，看老天过活，自给自足，灌输她对 于大自然的爱及敬意，也造就她韧性十足的个 性，足以安然度过漫长的冬天及严峻的时刻。

Päivikki Palosaari, owner of Hullu Poro

LEVI FOCUS

Moose snout terrine, snow grouse and matsutake mushroom consommé, and Jerusalem artichoke purée – Valkea Vaadin 驼鹿鼻肉泥、松鸡及松茸清汤，搭配 菊芋泥－「Valkea Vaadin」餐厅

64

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

65

LEVI FOCUS

F

Smoked roast of reindeer and snow grouse breast, served with puikula potatoes and dark lingonberry sauce – Valkea Vaadin 熏烤驯鹿肉及松鸡胸肉，搭配puikula马铃薯及越橘黑酱－「Valkea Vaadin」餐厅

66

|

F R O M H E R M A T E R N A L G R A N D P A R E N T S from the south, Palosaari learned that she could actually make money and with those earnings buy and do a wide variety of things. Between these two contrasting perspectives, she learned to enlarge her understanding of the world around her by questioning everything and drawing her own conclusions about the right way to do things.

When other restaurants were providing entertainment that pandered to the notoriously melancholic Finnish psyche, Palosaari decided to shake things up by bringing in DJs, playing

Päivikki 的外公外婆则出身南方，她从他们

loud rock music, and introducing Levi to karaoke. When her original Hullu Poro restaurant became so popular that people were literally dancing on tables while others were eating, she broke with Finnish tradition of combining dining and dancing in the same venue: “I had to come up with a place to put the people who just wanted to eat!” So she opened a new restaurant to bring guests the unique experience of a Lappish reindeer feast around an open fire in a Sami-style hut.

Hotels Taivaanvalkeat and Tonttula, built in her home village of Köngäs in 1994 and rebuilt after a fire in 2005, are an ongoing passion project for Palosaari. There, children can explore the Elves’ Hideaway and learn the legends and secrets of their mysterious world, and adults can wander among authentic log cabins or bask in the serenity of a traditional sauna and back wash on the banks of the Ounasjoki River. And for everyone, a cluster of northern lights huts is being readied for the autumn season. The region’s spectacular vistas and other-worldly ambiance make it an unforgettably magical place.

进莱维。首家「Hullu Poro」大受欢迎，就

TK | nordic od yssey

身上学到赚钱的方法， 懂得运用所得去购买、 打理大小事。近乎光谱两端的教养模式让她 获益良多，形成了她碰到任何事情都会「打 破砂锅问到底」的个性，整理出可行的做事 方法，大大增加她对周遭世界的理解。 当其他餐厅同业一味顺着不讨喜、所 谓 的 芬 兰 忧 郁 精 神 来 安 排 娱 乐 活 动 之 际，

Päivikki 端出完全颠覆的作法－她邀请 DJ 进 驻，带来高分贝的摇滚乐，并把卡拉 OK 引 算有其他客人在一边用餐，某些客人还是 开心到直接站上桌子跳舞。Päivikki 打破芬 兰传统，首创客人在同一地点就能实现用 餐及跳舞的两种愿望。同时，她也为只想 静静吃饭的客人开了新店，打造了北欧萨 米风格的小屋，让客人在营火下享用拉普 兰驯鹿大餐，独特体验令人难忘。

Taivaanvalkeat 及 Tonttula 两 间 酒 店 于 1994 年落成，位于她的家乡 Köngäs 小 镇， 后 因 火 灾 于 2005 年 重 建，Päivikki 对 此投注了满满的热情。在这里，小朋友可以 一探精灵隐居处，探究北欧秘境的传说及秘 密 ；大人则可在正宗北欧式木屋间漫步，或 在 Ounasjoki 河岸边来个传统桑拿及洗背服 务。秋季特有的北方点灯小屋群落之旅则是 老少咸宜，景区风光独特、富有魔幻魅力， 给游客犹如置身异世界的氛围。

Sugar-salted white fish with a sauce of smoked vendace and roe, served with pickled vegetables – Valkea Vaadin 糖及盐渍白鱼佐烟熏北欧鳟鱼及鱼卵酱汁， 搭配腌渍蔬菜上桌－「Valkea Vaadin」餐厅

Lingonberry frangipane pie, typically served with birch tree ice cream – Valkea Vaadin 越橘杏仁奶油派，一般 搭配桦树冰淇淋上桌－ 「Valkea Vaadin」餐厅

LEVI FOCUS

And it is precisely the purity, tranquility, and haunting beauty of Finnish Lapland that Palosaari believes will keep it flourishing as an international holiday destination. “Nature here is untainted and it is fragile,” she says.

“We have to keep it as intact as possible, and so we’ve been moving toward clean energy.” The use of green technology is such a priority for the forward-thinking entrepreneur that Hullu Poro’s fleet of cars, supported by Finland’s northernmost charging station, is all-electric.

“I’ve been so lucky to be a part of the progress and development that has come to Lapland as tourism has increased and expanded from domestic to international,” says Palosaari. Her excitement and enthusiasm are infectious as she talks about her involvement in the planning stages of a new project named Aurora Cosmos that will bring a luxury resort and village to the heart of Levi. “Life has brought me hardship and a lot of struggles, but I’m grateful because they often turned out to be valuable gifts that prepared me for the next stage in my life.”

Päivikki 曾将 Tonttula 的水送往赫尔辛基检测，各项 数据无懈可击，连检测当局都不禁质疑水样是否为有效检 体，直到于实地检测才完全信服。正是当地的纯净、恬静 及动人美景，让她相信芬兰拉普兰将会成为可以持续蓬勃 发展的国际级度假胜地。她强调 ： 「在这里，大自然没有 一丝污染，但也相当脆弱。我们要竭尽所能维持原貌，这 也是我们发展干净能源的原因。 」对这位走在时代先端的 企业家来说，绿色能源为第一优先， 「Hullu Poro」的车队 几乎清一色由电动车组成，由芬兰最北端的充电站提供电 力。 「我很幸运能成为当地产业发展进 Päivikki 表 示 ： 程中的一份子，见证拉普兰旅游业大幅成长，从国家级 景 区 一 跃 成 为 国 际 级 旅 游 胜 地。 」 谈 及 新 计 划「Aurora

Cosmos」的策划现况，她难掩开心，现场无不感受到她 的兴奋之情。不久之后，莱维市中心将有全新豪华度假村 「一路走来不时遇到难关，让 及设施落成。Päivikki 强调 ： 人相当挣扎，但让人感激的是它们最终都成为珍贵的赠礼， 助我迈向人生的下一个阶段。 」 Gin and tonic, featuring award-winning, rye-based Napue Gin 琴汤尼，使用获奖、黑麦酿制的北欧Napue琴酒

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

69

P R E S E N T E D B Y H I LT O N H E L S I N K I S T R A N D

通往芬兰之桥

BRIDGE TO FINLAND At restaurant BRO, traditional Finnish flavors combine in new ways that draw an international clientele.

70

|

TK | nordic od yssey

从开幕以来，位于波罗的海沿岸、 靠近首都市中心的赫尔辛基斯特 兰德希尔顿酒店，热情欢迎来自 世界各地的旅客。酒店设计理念 以大自然为启发，内部装潢充满 着当代斯堪的纳维亚风格，俐落 线条、有机建材、和谐色调深深 吸引着各式各样的旅人。 华人旅客数量快速增长，已 崛起成为全球旅游业的消费主力。 有鉴于此，近期赫尔辛基斯特兰

↓

德希尔顿酒店也参与了酒店集团

Reindeer + Gin: roast of reindeer, potato flatbread, Napue-gin mayonnaise, lichen

特别推出的「希尔顿欢迎」计划，

驯鹿 + 琴酒：烤驯鹿肉、马铃薯脆 饼、杜松子琴酒美乃滋、地衣

专门服务华人旅客。该计划取名 自中文的「欢迎」二字，提供个 性化服务与设备，让旅客感到回 家般的暖心与舒适。 就 连 酒 店 内 的 BRO 餐 厅 也 同样使出浑身解数接待华人旅客。 该餐厅的行政总厨 Juuso Jäntti 用 崭新方法演绎众多芬兰经典食材 和烹调技艺，让首次尝试芬兰菜 的旅客一试难忘，这样的理念正 好与餐厅名所隐含的「桥」之意 相符。 「我们不是北欧餐 Juuso 说 ： 厅，虽然有北欧元素，但终极目 标是融入亚洲、中东、北非、地 中海的元素，做出有意思的美味 料理。 」对他而言，唯一不得妥协 的是食材的品质与来源。以他广 受好评的料理「驯鹿 + 琴酒」为 例，他说 ： 「这道菜的肉来自拉普 兰哪一区，地衣从哪座森林采摘 的，我们都一清二楚。每道菜背 后都有一段故事。 」Juuso 的创意 佳肴配搭还包括鲑鱼佐柚子、干 贝佐香草等，令人垂涎不已。 「风 味至上！」这是他的坚持。

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Since its opening, Hilton Helsinki Strand has been welcoming guests from around the world to its waterfront location near the center of the capital.

The clean lines, organic materials, and harmonized colors of its contemporary Scandinavian interiors, inspired by the natural world, are designed to appeal to today’s cosmopolitan mix of travelers.

Recently, the hotel has made a special effort to expand its outreach to Chinese guests, who make up the fastest-growing segment in global tourism, through a program called Hilton Huanying. Derived from the Chinese word for “welcome,” the initiative offers personalized services and amenities to help visitors feel at home.

The hotel extends this same hospitality at its premier restaurant, BRO. Executive Chef Juuso Jäntti has created menus featuring many of the classic ingredients and techniques of Finnish food interpreted with a fresh approach that appeals to those who may be new to the cuisine, a philosophy reflected in the restaurant’s name, which means “bridge.”

“We’re not a ‘Nordic’ restaurant,” says Jäntti. “We have Nordic elements, but our vision is to do anything that’s interesting or tasty – we’ll do something from Asia, something from the Middle East, North Africa, the Mediterranean.”

One thing that’s not an option for the chef is the quality and authenticity of his ingredients, including those, for instance, in his popular Reindeer + Gin dish: “We know what part of Lapland this meat comes from, and this lichen – we know from which forest it’s been picked. There’s always a little bit of a story behind these dishes that we can tell to the customers.” Among Jäntti’s innovations are intriguing menu pairings like salmon with yuzu and scallop with vanilla.

“It’s all about the flavors,” he says.

↑ Lavaret + Chervil: white fish terrine, fingerling potato confit, chervil beurre blanc 白鲑 + 细叶芹：法式白鲑冻、油封拇指马铃薯、 细叶芹白奶油酱 ← Executive Chef Juuso Jäntti 行政总厨 Juuso Jäntti ↓ Blueberry + Rye: blueberry salad, rye crumble, roasted white chocolate mousse 蓝莓+ 裸麦：蓝莓沙拉、裸麦酥、焗白巧克力慕斯

莳花弄草的事业

BLOSSOMING BUSINESS

72

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

2 NIKO HONKANEN PLUCKS A SIMPLE GREEN LEAF, holding it out between two fingers and offering it with an encouraging nod and a look of anticipation. Normally, it wouldn’t merit a second glance, but when tasted, its natural sweetness and aroma, like anise encrusted in sugar, explode immediately on the tongue. “I’m not sure what its real name is in English, but we call it ‘honey lippi,’” says Suvi-Tuulia Hurme, a gardener at Mimi’s Kotipellon Puutarha, a unique small-scale herb farm a couple hours’ drive from Helsinki.

Niko Honkanen 摘下一片不起眼的绿色叶子，用两只手指头捻着， 他轻轻点头示意，神色充满期盼。通常这一小片叶子并不起眼，但 当把它放到嘴里，天然的甜味和香气，就像是裹了糖的茴芹，直接 触动着味蕾。Mimi’s Kotipellon Puutarha 是距离赫尔辛基开车大约两 小时的一家独特小香草园，Suvi-Tuulia Hurme 正是这里的园丁。 他 」 说： 「我不确定这种叶子的英文名字，但我们叫它 honey lippi。

DAVID HARTUNG (6)

5 24

74

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

DAVID HARTUNG (6)

Owners Pirjo and Tapio Mönkkönen, cucumber growers since 1997, took the gamble in 2010 of leaving the commodity crop behind and breaking new ground, first raising specialty lettuce and, soon thereafter, herbs and edible flowers. Their daughter, Sanna Honkanen, now assists with marketing, and her husband, Niko, tasked with sales and product development, quickly developed his newfound passion for specialty flowers.

Niko bustles around the greenhouse gathering stems, leaves, buds, and blossoms for further sampling. Fuzzy white plumes of tiny flowers are as minty-fresh as their traditionally consumed leaves. Granny’s flower, exquisite yellow with a faint peach blush, has a bright, tart flavor that lives up to its namesake, the Granny Smith apple. A sweetly scented phacelia flower calls to mind fresh honey.

The baby-blue flowers and succulent leaves of an oysterplant share the same bright minerality and brininess of a freshly shucked bivalve. And brightly hued carrot, cucumber, and basil flowers taste distinctly of, well, carrot, cucumber, and basil.

Mimi’s now offers the widest range of specialty lettuce, herbs, and flowers in Finland. They also work closely with many chefs to specially grow specific plants on order.

Niko and Suvi-Tuulia continue to scour seed catalogues, websites, and other resources for exotic plants and new methods. By purposefully exposing red cabbage leaf to cold temperatures, for example, they found they could enhance the vivid colors of its delicate veining.

香 草 园 的 老 板 Mönkkönen 夫 妇 Pirjo 和 Tapio， 在 1997 年时原本是种黄瓜的农家，但在 2010 年时放手一搏，放下长 久以来赖以为生的商品作物，一头栽进了新天地。他们先是种 植特种生菜，没多久就开始种香草和可食用的花。女儿 Sanna

Honkanen 负责行销，而女婿 Niko 很快地展现他对特殊花种的 热情，负责业务和产品研发。 为了收集更多样本， Niko 常在温室里忙进忙出，采集茎、叶、 花苞和花瓣。小花绒的白色绒毛和一般可食用叶子一样带着如 薄荷般清爽的香气 ；青苹果花有着高雅的黄以及一抹淡淡的桃 红，如 Granny Smith 青苹果般带着清香和微微酸味 ；有着甜甜 香气的紫艾菊让人联想到刚采收的蜂蜜 ；婆罗门参和水分充盈 的叶子如同去壳的贝类一样，带有矿物般的光泽和水分。色泽 鲜明的红萝卜、黄瓜和罗勒花，不用多说，它们尝起来就像是 红萝卜、黄瓜和罗勒。

Mimi’s 在芬兰提供多样化的特种生菜、香草和花卉。他 们也和厨师合作，种植特别的花草品种，以供订购。Niko 和

Suvi-Tuulia 不断搜寻有关种子的目录、网页和透过其他管道找 寻国外的品种和新技术。举例来说，他们曾刻意让紫椰菜叶暴 露在低温下，结果发现其细微叶脉变得更脉络分明。

心境

STATE OF MIND A chef brought up in eastern Finland draws from all of life to explore the meaning of Nordic food.

76

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

HELSINKI

“I don’t know what ‘Nordic’ philosophy is,” says Jari Vesivalo, chef of Michelin-starred restaurant Olo, close to Helsinki’s harbor. “I’m just doing what feels good for us. Everybody has their own idea of what Nordic is, but for me it’s just a state of mind.” ∫ Of Olo’s modern food, described by Michelin as “exciting,” “innovative,” and “stimulating,” Vesivalo remarks, “It’s Nordic cuisine, but I think Nordic cuisine is much more than just the ingredients. It’s the way of thinking about life generally. It comes from background, where you’ve been living, how you’ve been raised, nature and the environment, and of course the people around you.” Vesivalo, while greatly respecting the traditions of French cooking, finds liberating leeway in his native region’s briefer gastronomic history: “We have 「我 quite a lot of freedom in what we want to do.” ∫ 米其林星级餐厅奥洛（Olo）位于赫尔辛基港口附近，餐厅主厨 Jari Vesivalo 说 ： 不清楚什么是所谓的『北欧』哲学。我只是把能带给我们美好感受的事物呈现出来。每个人对北欧都有不同的看法，但对我而言它代表的 、 「充满创意」和「激发热情」的评价。Jari 进一步解释 ： 「我 是一种心境。 」 ∫ 关于 Olo 餐厅新颖的料理，米其林指南给了「让人雀跃」 们虽称之为北欧料理，但我认为除了食材和风味来自于北欧，北欧料理更是代表了一种生活态度。这取决于你的成长背景、居住的地方、 家庭教育、大自然和环境，当然还包括你周遭的人。 」虽然对传统法式料理充满敬意，但在他生长国度的美食文化薰陶下，Jari 发展出了奔 放不拘的烹饪方式。他认为 ： 「我们能随心所欲去追求想要做的事情。 」

Emmer semolina with reindeer heart 双粒小麦粥配驯鹿心 Vesivalo’s bowl of porridge made with Finnish emmer wheat from Malmgård is his modern embodiment of a childhood memory: “The idea is something similar to what my mom used to do when I was little, with rye bread and butter on top and we’d eat it with a spoon.” Olo’s version contains umami-rich mushroom stock, malt bread, and brown butter and is topped with grated reindeer heart that has been salted, smoked over birch wood, and dried. 在烹调粥品时，Jari 使用的是产自芬兰 Malmgård 的 双粒小麦。这也是他对童年回忆的重新诠释。Jari 说 ： 「这灵感来自于我的母亲。在我小时候，她经常这么 DAVID HARTUNG (2)

做。她将裸麦面包和奶油加到粥上面，而我们吃的时 候只需要一支汤匙。 」Olo 的版本则糅合了鲜美的蘑菇 高汤、麦芽面包和焦化奶油，最后放上用岩盐调味、 以桦木烟熏后烘干的驯鹿心颗粒。

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

77

78

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

HELSINKI

Salt-cured pike-perch

Warm mushroom pie

盐渍梭鲈

热蘑菇派

“We wanted to make a cold dish with local fish,” says Vesivalo. On the bottom is a mousse with Swedish Skåne mustard, organic yogurt, and homemade sour cream. Paper-thin slices of raw salt-cured pike-perch are cut to shape.

Other elements include potato cooked in fish stock, deep-fried fish scales, horseradish, trout roe, and a cold broth made from the bones and dotted with dill oil. On the menu for a year and a half, the popular dish has been constantly evolving.

Finnish autumn mushrooms feature in this savory warm dish.

“It’s like duxelles made with preserved mushrooms, onions, and mushroom stock,” says the chef.

Accompanying is a mousse of Västerbotten cheese, Sweden’s answer to parmesan, which is dispensed from a whipping siphon to keep it airy. Pickled spruce shoots from last spring’s harvest garnish the dish. The source of Vesivalo’s endless originality? “Sometimes the ideas come from ingredients, sometimes nature, sometimes your friends, sometimes when you visit other countries.”

「 我 们 想 用 本 地 的 鱼 作 冷 盘。 」 Jari 说 ： 这道菜的底层是以瑞典斯科讷芥末酱、 有机乳酪和手工自制酸奶油制成的慕 斯，放上切割成型、薄如纸片的生渍梭 鲈，再加上用鱼高汤炖煮的马铃薯、酥

芬 兰 秋 收 蘑 菇 是 这 道 菜 的 主 角。

炸鱼鳞、辣根、鳟鱼卵和以大骨熬成的

主厨说 ： 「它就像以罐头蘑菇、洋

冷高汤和几滴莳萝油。这道菜已经推出

葱和蘑菇高汤做出来的法式蘑菇

了一年半，一直很受食客欢迎，但餐厅

酱。 」配菜是以有瑞典帕马森芝士

表示这道菜仍会不断地进化。

之 称 的 Västerbotten 芝 士 制 成 的 慕斯，而主厨刻意不用慕斯瓶挤 奶泡，保​​持了慕斯的轻透空气感， 然后加上去年春天收割并腌渍好

Caramel ice cream 焦糖冰淇淋

的云杉芽，把料理装点得更加丰 富。想知道 Jari 源源不绝的灵感来 源？他透露 ： 「灵感有时候来源于 食材和大自然，有时候来自于朋

“We use brown sugar,” explains

友，有时时候是你在异国旅行时

the chef, “because white sugar is

的灵光一闪。 」

just sweet with no character at all. It’s a basic caramel ice cream made with eggs.” The recipe calls for more milk than cream to keep it light. “We add smoked salt, two kinds of cream made with malt, and puffed oats.” The oats are cooked in salted butter, dried about eight hours, and quickly deep-fried to puff them. Skinny rye bread sticks and black currants finish the dish. 主厨说 ： 「我们使用黑糖，因为白 糖只有甜味而没有其他特色。这是 简单用鸡蛋做出来的焦糖冰淇淋。 」 比起用奶油，这道食谱用了更多的 牛奶以保持轻盈口感。他进一步解

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

释： 「我们还使用了烟熏盐、麦芽 和澎化燕麦口味的奶油。 」燕麦以 含盐奶油煮熟，经过八小时烘干， 再以高温油炸变得松脆。最后放上 细长的裸麦面包条、洒点黑醋栗， 这道冰淇淋就大功告成了。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

79

TASTING NOTES

Frozen aerated mousse 冷冻柠檬马鞭草慕斯

Ethereal as any cloud, Vesivalo’s frozen lemon verbena mousse starts with a cream made from milk, egg yolk, corn flour, and sugar. A base of Swiss meringue is combined with the cream and piped into special molds with a whipping siphon. Then a vacuum machine lifts the mousse ever higher into a sublime nothingness that melts the instant it touches the tongue. As is usual with Vesivalo, the plating is very simple, because for him, “flavor is everything.” 在制作冷冻柠檬马鞭草慕斯时，

Jari 先将用牛奶、蛋黄、玉米粉 和糖打成的奶泡，加上以慕斯瓶

Blood porridge with celery root 血粥和芹菜根 Blood and barley sausage is an old Finnish tradition. Olo’s variation on a theme starts with thinly sliced celery root pickled sous vide in brine in a vacuum bag for ten minutes and then placed atop a porridge made with reindeer blood. “When I was younger,” says Vesivalo, “I would make a dish and wonder what was missing and what could I add. Now I think, what can I take out? When you simplify, each remaining ingredient must shine.”

底，再放入真空机，将慕斯变得

大麦血肠是芬兰古老的传统料理，Olo

更轻盈、若有似无，如浮云般轻

的版本是先将切成薄片的芹菜根放入

透，一入口便立刻在舌尖融化。

装有盐水的真空袋，以真空低温烹煮

如同 Jari 一贯的作风，这道菜也

十分钟，接着放在用驯鹿血煮成的粥

不需要缀饰的摆盘。对他而言，

「在我年轻的时候，我会 上。Jari 说 ：

味道就是一切。

一边做料理一边想着『是否少了些什 么或者还能再加点什么』 。现在我想的 是怎样可以化繁为简。当你越简单纯 粹，每一种食材越能尽情展现它本来 的味道。 」

80

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

挤入特制模具的瑞士马林糖基

HELSINKI

Silver onions have been p i c k l e d t wo way s, t h e light ones in apple vinegar, the dark ones in white wine vinegar and beer.

“Nowadays, we pickle onions a very simple way,” says Vesivalo, “one part butter, one part sugar, one part vinegar.”

T he onions are simmered slowly in the brine for six to ten minutes and quickly chilled in cold brine. Completing the dish are bread deep-fried in brown butter, powdered d r i e d t a r ra g o n , o n i o n flowers, and dots of sour cream.

Pickled onions 腌渍洋葱

洋葱以两种 方式腌渍，颜 色淡的是用苹果 醋， 颜 色 深 的 是 用白酒醋加上啤酒。

Jari 说，「 现 在 我 们 腌 洋葱的方法非常简单 ：一 部分用奶油，一部分用糖， 另外一部分用醋。 」洋葱放在 盐水里慢煮六至十分钟，起锅后 立刻浸泡在冷盐水里，然后伴以用焦 化奶油油炸的面包，裹上炸粉的干龙蒿 和洋葱花，上桌前再淋上一点酸奶油。

STOCKHOLM

北欧东方情

NORTH MEETS EAST An acclaimed Swedish chef brings her personal Nordic-Japanese approach to Stockholm’s newest fine-dining restaurant.

As a fishmonger’s daughter from Gothenburg on Sweden’s west coast, Frida Ronge found it natural to gravitate toward a sea-centric cuisine like Japan’s.

Now the culinary director of restaurant TAK in central Stockholm, she took silver in the Seven Sushi Samurai World Championship and was also named Rising Star of the Year by Sweden’s White Guide. Ronge brings her dual Japanese and traditional Nordic sensibilities to bear on TAK’s contemporary cuisine and plans to present it later this year as guest chef at Altira Macau. ∫ TAK’s restaurant, bar, raw bar, and terrace are spread over two floors atop a modern building. Ronge, who also had a hand in selecting color schemes and ceramics, is the dynamic force behind imaginative menus that feature Swedish artisan ingredients enhanced by the flavors of Japan. ∫ 身为瑞典西海岸哥德堡的鱼贩之女，发展 像日式料理一类、以海鲜为主的烹饪风格对 Frida Ronge 来说再自然不过。她现为 斯德哥尔摩市中心知名餐厅「TAK」的厨艺总监，曾于世界第一寿司匠大赛「七寿 司武士 (Seven Sushi Samurai World Championship)」中摘银，也曾是瑞典权威餐 厅指南「White Guide」选出的年度新星。Frida 为「TAK」的现代美馔注入日式元 素及传统北欧的细腻风格。今年， 她也计划以客席主厨的身份进驻澳门新濠锋酒店， 一飨当地饕客。 ∫ 「TAK」位于一栋摩登大楼的最上层，餐厅、室内、户外吧台以 及露台巧妙地错落于两层楼的空间中。除了参与室内设计选色及拣选陶瓷，Frida 也一手包办创意十足的餐厅菜式，运用日式风味，衬托瑞典本地食材的美味。

Gös och ostron, pike-perch and oysters 梭鲈与牡蛎 “The fish is from a lake between Stockholm and Gothenburg,” says Ronge. “I dress the sashimi ready for the guest – we add the flavors of lemon, rice vinegar, parsley oil, and soy sauce to the dressing. Here in Sweden, people really don’t know how to use soy sauce – sometimes they drink it!” Completing the Nordic presentation are ­oysters, also from near the chef’s native Gothenburg, along

with Swedish seaweed, dashi-marinated trout roe, and garnishes of spirulina and dried seaweed. 「梭鲈来自于斯德哥尔摩及哥德堡之间的大湖。 Frida 表示 ： 我们会为梭鲈生鱼片配上柠檬、米醋、欧芹油及酱油作为酱 怎么用，甚至有人直接把它喝掉！」牡蛎是这一道菜的另一 个主角，是来自主厨家乡哥特堡附近的新鲜直送。最后，主 厨佐以瑞典海带、高汤卤制鳟鱼卵，缀上螺旋藻及干海菜， 摆盘完美的北欧风餐点便大功告成。

82

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

料伴碟，之后才端上桌供客人品尝。瑞典人真的不懂酱油该

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

83

Uer och blomkål , redfish and cauliflower 红鱼及花椰菜 The dish starts with red-skinned Swedish kingfish. “We cook it with soy sauce and mirin, the same technique as miso-baked cod,” Ronge explains. It’s served with bok choy and couscous containing cauliflower and the smoked belly of the fish and is accompanied by shavings of dried smoked pork and a sauce of chicken broth, fish sauce, and butter. “The Japanese don’t use much butter, but the Nordic people really like sauce. It’s not heavy with cream, so it has a fresh flavor.”

这 道 菜 以 全 身 通 红 的 瑞 典 红 鱼 为 主 角。 「红鱼先用酱油及味醂煮过， Frida 说明 ： 就像烹调味噌酱烤鳕鱼一样。 」这一道菜 还会配上白菜与内含花椰菜及烟熏鱼腩的 北非小米饭，再搭上烟熏腊肉切片，然后 佐以用鸡汤、鱼露及奶油熬煮的酱汁即可 「日本菜很少使用奶油， 上桌。Frida 表示 ： 但北欧人很爱奶油酱。这道菜搭配的白汁 不会太浓稠，反而相当清爽。 」

STOCKHOLM

Frida Ronge, who first learned to prepare sushi using frozen fish imported from Japan, now showcases fresh Nordic ingredients in her innovative Japanese-inspired cuisine. 从以日本进口的冷冻鱼制成寿司入门，Frida Ronge 现已能够运用新鲜的北欧本地食材， 挥洒创意，创作带有日式风格的独特料理。

Prinsesstårta , princess cake 公主蛋糕 A beloved Swedish dessert, princess cake is conventionally made from sponge layered with pastry cream, jam, and whipped cream and then topped with a dome of green marzipan and a pink marzipan rose. “It’s a very typical cake for celebrations – you grow up with it,” says Ronge. In her miniaturized version, the chef gives tradition her signature spin by starting with Japanese cheesecake on the bottom.

“We have infused jasmine tea in the cream and colored white marzipan with matcha tea.” 公主蛋糕是一款备受喜爱的瑞典点心，传统作法为将海绵蛋糕、卡士 达酱、果酱及生奶油层层堆叠，最后覆以一整片绿色杏仁糖衣，加上 DAVID HARTUNG (3)

「公主蛋糕 一朵粉红色杏仁糖玫瑰点缀就完成了。 Frida 开心地说道 ： 就是拿来庆祝用的，我们从小吃到大。 」主厨特制迷你版公主蛋糕时， 「奶 也使出她翻转传统的拿手绝技 – – 以日式芝士蛋糕为底。Frida 说 ： 油里加了茉莉花茶，再以抹茶将白色杏仁糖衣染成一片鲜绿色。 」

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

85

CHEF PROFILE

美味背后

STORIES TO TELL A Stockholm-based chef with a globally growing list of acclaimed restaurants reveals what lies behind his very personal approach to food.

BY MAMIE CHEN

86

|

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

87

CHEF PROFILE

百百百百百百

「我跟维京人一样，没了战船就会迷 路。」Björn Frantzén 说， 他 的 幽 默 感 就 跟 瑞 典 桑 拿 (bastu) 一 样， 带 着 一 种古式的质感。这位知名大厨一边开 着玩笑，一边透露他的餐厅集团中引 以自豪的米其林二星餐厅 Restaurant Frantzén 目前暂时歇业，今春装修完 毕后将在新地点重新开张。事实上， 除了新餐厅一切按计划进行，Björn 最 近全副心思都放在其他八家位于斯德 哥尔摩的餐厅、酒吧和实验厨房，以 及去年在香港开幕的第一家海外餐厅 Frantzén’s Kitchen，该餐厅一炮而红， 受欢迎程度远超预期。 如若想在 Frantzén’s Kitchen 用餐， 食客必须在两个月前订位，而且座位 一旦释出皆被立刻预订。餐厅只有 28 个座位，一晚招待 45 至 65 位客人用 餐。事实上，Björn 已经尽量限制用餐 人数，以免太多人在门外等候影响到 附近的安宁。许多客人一试成熟客， 餐厅只好提早更新菜单。Björn 说： 「餐 厅在十一月二十四日开幕，次年一月 我的主厨 Jim Löfdahl 就打电话来和我 讨论菜单的更新事宜。这就像是在开 玩笑。我们才开张一个半月，而现在 菜单上有一半菜式已经换过了。」 他最近来了趟香港，之后回到瑞 典， 准 备 为 另 一 位 瑞 典 名 厨 Kristoffer Luczak 安排一个派对。派对安排 在一个美丽的早春午后，温度摄氏十 度，这是今年首个阳光灿烂的日子。 Björn 精神奕奕，站在码头甲板上，观 看游轮缓慢驶过斯德哥尔摩群岛的心 脏地带。他说好要办一场简单的家庭 式 BBQ 派 对， 但 他 说 的 是 真 的 吗？ Björn 大笑着说 ： 「假如你本身是个很 好的厨师的话 …… 不不不，其实还满 简单的，没有太花哨的东西。」 Björn 摊开派对的菜单，菜式琳琅 满目 ：从瑞典菲耶巴卡打捞的海螯虾、 驼鹿骨髓伴驯鹿肉鞑靼、卡利克斯的 鳟鱼卵、本地的「春羊」搭配从哥特 兰岛运来的蔬菜，甜点则是云莓加打 发鲜奶油。我们本来就猜想他对「家 庭式」与「花哨」的定义跟别人不同， 一看食材，果然不出所料。Björn 拍下 烤架上的辉煌战果 ：两截驼鹿腿、切 成两块的羔羊肉，以及好几只海螯虾，

CHEF BJOERN FRANTZEN ABerum sitam et verum doluptae il Adele volupti dit earum abor rehenim agnam, suntem venis corem

Live langoustines, large by most standards but typical of what was sent three times a week to Restaurant Frantzén, are the first indication that Frantzén’s Michelin-level standards will apply at this casual home barbecue. 这种新鲜的海螯虾比标准稍大，但对每个星期进货三次海螯虾的 Restaurant Frantzén 餐厅来说是合格体型。主厨 Björn 把餐厅的米其林标准带来这个家庭BBQ派对了。

“I’M LIKE A VIKING , a bit lost without his bat-

tleship,” says Björn Frantzén, his humor as dry as a Swedish bastu. The well-known chef makes the comparison while the pride and joy of his restaurant group, two-Michelinstarred Restaurant Frantzén, is temporarily closed until renovations at its new location are completed this spring. In truth, besides all the planning going into the new venue, he has been fully focused on managing the eight other Stockholm restaurants, bars, and test kitchens in his portfolio, as well as his first international outpost, Frantzén’s Kitchen in Hong Kong, launched last year to heights of success well beyond expectations.

Fully booked two months out, reservations for Frantzén’s Kitchen are snapped up as soon as they are released. The small twenty-eightseater does between forty-five and sixty-five covers a night, and Frantzén is actually trying to cut the number down to reduce the neighborhood impact from so many guests waiting outside its doors. The place has also gained so

88

|

TK | nordic od yssey

many regulars so quickly that they’ve had to renew the menu much earlier than expected.

“We opened on November 24, and by January, my head chef Jim Löfdahl had already called to discuss updating the menu. Are you kidding me?” says Frantzén, shaking his head. “We’d been open for six weeks! We’ve changed half the menu already.”

He has recently returned to Sweden from another visit to Hong Kong, and the honor of his presence at the home of our host, Kristoffer Luczak, is not lost upon us.

It’s a beautiful early spring afternoon – 10°C and one of the first sunny days of the year.

Frantzén is in high spirits as he stands on the waterfront deck, watching cruise ships make slow passage through the heart of the Stockholm archipelago. He promises a simple, family-style barbecue. Really? “It is if you’re a very good chef,” he laughs. “No, no, it will be nice and easy, nothing too fancy.”

He rattles off his menu for the day’s barbeque: langoustines from Fjällbacka, elk bone

Grilled langoustines with butter mayonnaise and dried dill 烧烤海螯虾伴奶油美乃滋及风干莳萝 Langoustines are a Swedish classic that are commonly boiled and served with dill.

At Restaurant Frantzén, they might be first blanched and then deep-fried and served with butter mayonnaise and dried dill. On this day at Luczak’s, Benitez splits the live langoustines down the middle, and Frantzén, to guard their fragile succulence, very briefly shows them the grill. The natural sweetness of the flesh is enhanced with a simple squeeze of lemon, dabs of clarified-butter mayonnaise, and a sprinkling of dried dill and sea salt. 海螯虾是瑞典的代表菜式，通常煮熟后搭配莳 萝一道食用。但 Restaurant Frantzén 处理海螯 虾的手法相当特别，先用沸水煮至发白再经油 炸，淋上奶油美乃滋，加一小撮风干莳萝。那 天在 Kristoffer 的派对上，Charlie 把一只活跳 跳的海螯虾从中切开，然后 Björn 为了锁住极 易流失的肉汁，很快地烤了一下。他们再给菜 品挤上少许柠檬汁，蘸两下澄清的奶油美乃滋， 撒一撮风干莳萝和海盐，以提升虾肉的鲜甜。

CHEF PROFILE

90

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Grilled elk bone marrow with reindeer tartare and vendace roe 烧烤驼鹿骨髓伴驯鹿肉鞑靼与鳟鱼卵 Old meets new in Frantzén’s combination of elk bone marrow, reindeer tartare, and vendace roe. While he admits he’s made similar dishes in the past, he’s never served one in such a rustic form. “I like to take away some of the gamy flavor by giving it a little bit of grilled smokiness. Then we roughly chop down the meat to tenderize it and mix it with some hay ash for even more smokiness.” The grilled elk bone is served hot off the grill, topped with the reindeer tartare, vendace roe from the Kalix River, and pickled red onion.

Björn 结合驼鹿骨髓、驯鹿肉鞑靼和鳟鱼卵，为老菜式 开发新做法。虽然他坦承过去做过类似的菜式，但这一 次的做法最朴实无华。他说 ： 「我想加些烟熏味，去除野 生肉质的腥膻。接着，用刀剁这块肉，让肉质变软，再 混入些干草灰，好带出更多烟熏气味。 」这样，驼鹿骨髓 就烤好了，从烤架上取下就可以吃，上面伴上驯鹿肉鞑 靼、产自卡利克斯河的白鳟鱼鱼卵，以及腌渍红洋葱。

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

91

CHEF PROFILE

“At the restaurant, we might have put the bones back on the grill and made a stock out of them. We could add some dried ceps to get the umami going and then serve it as a bouillon drink after the course,” Frantzén muses.

Björn稍为思索后说：「我们通常在餐厅会把骨头拿去再烧，很快便没有骨头了。我们可以加入干牛肝菌，让鲜味更持久，再当作餐后享用的肉汤。」

marrow with reindeer tartare and vendace roe from Kalix, local spring lamb with vegetables from Gotland, and cloudberries with whipped cream for dessert. Our suspicions that his definitions of “family-style” and “fancy” may differ from ours are later borne out when he posts an Instagram photo of the grill laden with two halves of an elk leg, two cannons of lamb, and a multitude of langoustines. His wife comments that she’d like this for dinner, and he replies, “Sorry, my darling, not tonight.”

Over the next few hours, Frantzén and his sous chef, Charlie Benitez, deliver a masterclass on home barbecuing. Langoustines, notoriously fragile shellfish whose flesh rapidly deteriorates after death, are kept alive until preparation and then immediately grilled for the briefest of spells to protect their delicate splendor. For the tartare, Frantzén lightly grills the outside of the reindeer thigh to allow some of the smokiness to cut the natural gaminess of the meat. The yellow beetroots that accompany the spring

92

|

TK | nordic od yssey

lamb are slowly baked in the oven for two and a half hours and turned every five minutes, until they attain a chewy dehydrated texture with concentrated sweetness. To cap off the meal, Frantzén gives a modern twist to an easy, traditional cloudberry and cream dessert by subtly scenting the whipped cream with birch tree oil and thyme.

Later that evening, we dine at The Flying Elk, Frantzén’s gastropub, where his interpretations of pub grub include snacks of cheddar cheese gougères dusted with fennel pollen and a main of pan-fried Norwegian scallops with truffle scrambled eggs. His restaurants vastly differ from one another in concept: the next day we lunch at his classic Swedish dining room, Bobergs Matsal, where he gives traditional favorites his unique contemporary treatment in presentation and purified flavors.

Although we didn’t have opportunity to experience a tasting menu at Restaurant Frantzén, we’re delighted to have taken

a culinary journey to discover the master chef ’s underlying gastronomic philosophy: “I believe you must have a story that tells something new and different.” Frantzén may do this by bringing Nordic cuisine to a market, such as Hong Kong, that is already saturated with classic French and Italian restaurants.

In Stockholm, it may mean introducing Asian flavors and techniques to Nordic ingredients, as at Restaurant Frantzén or, as at Bobergs Matsal, taking a traditional Swedish classic and putting it into a new culinary context.

Back in Hong Kong, rumors have spread that Michelin inspectors are in town. But the chef nonchalantly shrugs off any thought of special preparations for the eventuality of a surprise visit to Frantzén’s Kitchen, trusting that his team will simply get their job done every day, regardless of the possibility.

“The inspectors have seen all the tricks in the book, so there’s no use trying to pretend to be something you’re not,” he says. “You do what you do, and you get what you get.”

Grilled spring lamb with ramsons, yellow beets, and a truffle emulsion 烧烤春羊伴熊葱、黄甜菜根，佐以松露汁 Frantzén puts an emphasis on seasonality by pairing the first spring lamb from a local farm an hour’s drive away with the first Gotland ramsons in two forms, dried whole leaves and blended into a pesto sauce. Dehydrated yellow beetroots and an emulsion of truffles, both from Gotland as well, add an earthy element to round out the dish.

Björn 强调使用时令食材，因此这一道菜用哥 特兰岛上今年初长成的熊葱，把叶子分別风干 和捣碎，做成青酱，搭配离这里仅一小时车程 的本地农场饲养的春羊。脱水的黄甜菜根和松 露汁也是来自哥特兰岛，让这道菜多了几分来 自大地的滋味。

CHEF PROFILE

Tournedos of beef 腓里牛排

This is the dish that started it all, Frantzén tells us: “When I was twelve years old, my best friend’s parents owned a French brasserie called Rendezvous. One night after going to the cinema, we stopped there for dinner and I had a steak tournedos with homemade béarnaise sauce and french fries, and a Coke with loads of ice and lemon. It was a hallelujah moment for me, and I said, I’m going to become a chef so I can cook and eat like this every day.”

For his tournedos at The Flying Elk, Frantzén uses beef from Swedish milk cows. The fillet is fried, topped with a reduction of oxtail jus, and served with onion rings, fries, and béarnaise sauce. A pairing with Coke and lemon is highly recommended.

这 道 菜 可 谓 是 Björn 入 行 的 契 机。 他回忆说 ： 「我十二岁时，好朋友 的父母开了一家叫『Rendezvous』 的法式啤酒屋。有天晚上，我们看 完电影后回那里去吃晚餐，我吃的 就是腓里牛排。餐厅给牛排淋上自 制的法式伯纳西酱，还配上炸薯条 跟一杯满是冰块和柠檬的可乐。那 真是神圣的一刻，我只能赞美主， 当下我便决定以后要当厨师，这样 就可以天天做这样的菜来吃。 」 而 Björn 在 The Flying Elk 餐厅烹 调的腓里牛排是选用瑞典乳牛的牛 肉，煎过之后淋上牛尾汁，佐以洋 葱圈、炸薯条和法式伯纳西酱。他 还强烈推荐配上加了柠檬的可乐。

At The Flying Elk, Frantzén prepares his favorite childhood dish.

Björn 在The Flying Elk 餐厅烹 调他童年最爱的菜式。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

95

CHEF PROFILE

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

97

CHEF PROFILE

Gubbröra (previous page) 鸡蛋鲱鱼沙拉 ( 别称「老人的混搭」) Frantzén deconstructs a traditional Swedish Midsummer herring salad by topping a thin slice of rye bread with matjes , or spiced and barrelpreserved Swedish herring, boiled potatoes, egg yolk cream, pickled onions, rye crisps, dill, and chives.

Björn 让这一道瑞典人在仲夏节时最 爱吃的鲱鱼沙拉改头换面。他将以 木桶保存、用香料调味的瑞典腌小 鲱鱼放在裸麦面包上，佐以水煮马 铃薯、蛋黄酱、腌洋葱、裸麦脆片、 莳萝和细香葱。

Frantzén introduces the next course to Luczak (right) and guests.

Björn 为 Kristoffer（右）和客人介紹下一道菜式。

上传到 Instagram。 Björn 太太在他的上传 的照片下留言，让他把这些美味带回家当 晚餐。他回覆： 「抱歉，亲爱的，今晚不行。」 接 下 来 几 个 小 时，Björn 和 副 主 厨 Charlie Benitez 为 大 家 上 了 一 堂 家 庭 式 BBQ 大师班课程。海螯虾是最难保鲜的带 壳海鲜，因此需等到材料全备好后才立刻 烹烤，这样才能保存令人赞叹的细致甘甜。 至于鞑靼，只稍微烤一下驯鹿的大腿肉， 以烟熏香气减少野生肉质的腥膻味。搭配 春羊的黄色甜菜根要放进烤箱，慢烤两个

98

|

TK | nordic od yssey

半小时，每隔五分钟翻面一次，直到有酥 绵耐嚼的口感与甜味。为了给烤肉派对划 下美好句点，Björn 将传统常见的云莓鲜奶 油甜点稍加改良，在打发鲜奶油里面加少 许桦木油和百里香，尝起来别具现代风味。 那 晚 我 们 在 Björn 所 开 的 The Flying Elk 酒吧内用餐，品尝他以巧思烹制的各种 美食。我们品尝了加入茴香花粉的法式起 司泡芙，主菜则是以浅锅煎的挪威大扇贝， 佐以黑松露炒蛋。他所开的每一家餐厅都 有各自的概念。翌日我们在他另一间具瑞

典 风 格 的 Bobergs Matsal 餐 厅 享 用 午 餐， 他改用当代的烹调及摆盘方式演绎瑞典人 最爱的家常菜，风味纯正。 虽 然 我 们 没 机 会 体 验 Restaurant Frantzén 的全套菜单，我们还是很高兴能 参与这趟美食之旅，一探这位主厨的烹饪 哲学 ： 「我相信你一定想分享一些新奇的故 事。」正因如此，Björn 把北欧烹调方式带 到其他地区，比如香港，那儿到处是标榜 正宗法国菜或意大利菜的餐厅。而在斯德 哥尔摩，他不忘将北欧元素与亚洲口味或

A trio of canapés 前菜三重奏

烹调技巧结合，无论在 Restaurant Frantzén 或 Bobergs Matsal，传统瑞典菜都融汇了异 国元素，顿时展现新风貌。 说起香港，米其林神秘评审员到访的 传闻甚嚣尘上。然而，即使评审员可能出 其不意到访 Frantzén’s Kitchen，Björn 也显 得满不在乎。因为他相信无论神秘贵客来 或不来，自己的团队每天都会做到最好。 他说 ： 「评审员什么花招没见过，根本没必 要假装。只要把事情做好，是你的就是你 的。」

Left to right: Toast Skagen features prawns from the west coast mixed with mayonnaise and topped with vendace roe. Salmon gravad lax is lightly cured in a dry brine of salt, sugar, and dill. Thin slices of suovas , or smoked and salted reindeer, are topped with freshly grated horseradish for a very traditional Swedish flavor.

由左至右 : 虾酱吐司选用瑞典西 海岸产的明虾，搭配美乃滋和 白鳟鱼鱼卵。 盐渍鲑鱼用干式 盐渍法，以盐、糖和莳萝混合 腌制。 以盐提味的烟熏驯鹿肉 切成薄片，上头覆上刚磨好的 辣根，便是一道传统瑞典佳肴。

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

99

CHEF PROFILE

Homemade black pudding

Jansson’s Temptation

自制黑布丁

Jansson 的诱惑

Frantzén’s homemade black pudding, based on another traditional Swedish dish, is flavored with cognac, marjoram, and port wine and topped with smoked bacon, preserved lingonberries, and roasted winter apples.

“Jansson’s Temptation is one of the most classic of Swedish Christmas dishes. It is traditionally served as a gratin of sliced potatoes and onions with anchovies and cream,” says Frantzén. “In our version, we’ve made it into a poached skrei dish with a white wine sauce flavored with juice from fermented anchovies. We’ve added three types of caviar and a touch of dill oil, and we serve it with hash brown potatoes on the side.”

Björn 的自制黑布丁灵感源自另一道瑞典菜，以

「Jansson 的诱惑是瑞典过圣诞节的代表性菜肴，一般多以切片马铃薯和洋葱 Björn 说 ：

干邑白兰地、马郁兰和波特酒调味，上面加烟熏

做成奶油烤菜，加上鯷鱼和鲜奶油。但我们的做法不同，我们清蒸挪威鳕鱼，淋上以腌

培根、糖渍越橘，以及烤冬日苹果。

鯷鱼汁调味的白酒酱。此外，我们还加上三种鱼子酱、少许莳萝油，搭配金黄的薯饼。 」

100

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Björn Frantzén poses in Stockholm’s Kungsträdgården with a statue of King Charles XII in the background.

Björn Frantzén在斯德哥尔摩 的国王花园留影，背后是国 王查理十二世的雕像。

TROMSØ

102

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

极圈丰年

ARCTIC HARVEST Writer Mamie Chen and photographer David Hartung explore Norway’s majestic northern fjords and the bountiful fisheries that shape a way of life.

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

103

TROMSØ

ON THE TWENTY-FIRST OF JANUARY every year, Tromsø gets its first glimpse of the sun after nearly two straight months of polar darkness. Visible only from the steps of Tromsø Cathedral, the merest sliver manages to crest – all too briefly – over the mountaintops to the south before sinking from sight again. But that hopeful glimpse of new-year sunlight is incentive enough for every child and adult to celebrate Soldagen, the Day of the Sun, with a festive solboller (sun bun) or two.

For the fishermen, there is even greater reason to rejoice: the return of the sun roughly coincides with the much-anticipated return of the skrei, the highly prized seasonal cod that once provided a foundation for the Viking economy, as it does even now for that of modern-day northern Norway. “We have been fishing skrei for well over a thousand years,” says Anders Nordøy Snellingen, a communications advisor with the Norwegian Seafood Council (NSC), the marketing arm of Norway’s seafood industry. “The Vikings took dried skrei with them on sea voyages, not just as food, but as a commodity for trade. If not for these fish, we wouldn’t have settled down here.”

From January through April, millions of Norwegian arctic cod migrate more than a thousand kilometers from their home in the icy Barents Sea to more temperate spawning grounds in the nutrient-rich coastline around northern Norway. The waters surrounding the Lofoten and Vesterålen archipelagos and the island of Senja teem with such a wealth of skrei that fishermen could catch and earn enough in those four months to hang up their nets, if they chose, for the rest of the year.

The spawning skrei (“wanderer” in Old Norse) arrive full of roe and at their physical peak, having been toned and conditioned into lean, firm flesh by their arduous migration. In that state, they are much more highly valued than their coastal counterparts that feed in the fjords all year round, in part due to their short seasonality but mostly because of their superior taste and texture.

Thanks to the efforts of the NSC, “skrei” is a registered trademark, and only these particular arctic cod, caught in their spawning grounds at this specific time of year, can be marketed as such.

Gunnar Jensen, head chef of Tromsø’s Mathallen restaurant, confirms the difference in quality. “If you had the choice between a skrei and a summer cod lying side by side, you would select the skrei every time,” he says.

“When cooked, the meat flakes beautifully. It’s also firm enough to cure and serve like a gravlax. But I would only do that with a skrei. The regular cod can get much too soft and almost jelly-like.”

每年的 1 月 21 日，历经将近两个月的 极夜，特罗姆瑟迎来第一道曙光。从特 罗姆瑟天主教堂的台阶开始显现，细微 银光爬上尖塔，从远处群山山顶向南 边洒落，直到消失于眼前，但美景稍 纵即逝。面对如此充满希望的新年曙 光，大人小孩欢欣鼓舞吃起应景太阳饼

solboller 热烈地庆祝太阳日，迎接每年 的第一个日出。对渔夫们来说，第一个 日出更是一件欢天喜地的大事。日照的 回归宣告着挪威北极鳕鱼的季节性洄 游，过去为维京人奠下经济基础，现今 仍为北挪威经济来源中最有价值、备受 期待的要事。挪威海产局 (NSC) 公关顾 问、挪威海产事业的行销大腕 Anders 「我们捕挪威北 Nordøy Snellingen 说 ： 极鳕鱼已经超过一千年。维京人从渔村 带走风干的挪威北极鳕鱼，除了是当作 粮食外，也作为贸易商品。如果不是因 为这些鱼，他们恐怕没办法在这里落地 生根。 」 从一月到四月，上百万条挪威北 极鳕鱼从结冰的家乡巴伦支海洄游超过 一千公里来到更适合产卵孵育、海岸线 肥沃的北挪威海域。这里的海水环绕在 罗弗敦群岛、韦斯特龙群岛和塞尼亚岛 之间，充分滋养着产量丰富的北极鳕鱼。 渔获丰收，让渔夫赚得足够收入度过那 四个高挂渔网的月份，甚至足够度过每 年余下的日子。 这些身怀六甲的挪威北极鳕鱼（古 挪威语「漫游者」之意）到达鱼卵产量 和体能的最佳状态，在历尽艰辛的迁徙， 将身体打造得精瘦结实有弹性。在这个 状况下，它们比起整年在峡湾里被饲养 的鱼群更有价值，一部分因为短暂的季 节效应，但主要由于其超凡的味道和口 感。由于挪威海产局的努力不懈， 「挪 威北极鳕鱼」拥有自己的注册商标，只 有这些特定的、产于一年中的特定时间、 在鱼群孵育成长的温床里捕捉到的北极 鳕鱼，才能被赋予这个商标行销世界。 特 罗 姆 瑟 Mathallen 餐 厅 主 厨 Gunnar Jensen 见证其品质的差异。他 说明 ： 「如果必须在挪威北极鳕鱼和夏 天的鳕鱼间作抉择，不论几次都一定会 选挪威北极鳕鱼。鱼肉片状结构完美， 肉质充满弹性，料理时常用来取代鲑鱼 作成腌渍，但我只愿意以北极鳕鱼来做， 一般的鳕鱼偏软，口感近似果冻。 」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

105

TROMSØ

A STRING OF SMALL, locally owned, two-man fishing boats bob in the waters about ten to fifteen kilometers from the shores of Sommarøya, a small island across the mouth of the Malangen Fjord from the large island of Senja to the south. They’ve likely been out since five in the morning, and now – some using long lines and others gillnets – they’re hauling in the last of the day’s catch of three tons each.

Small trawlers from a little further out will be bringing in greater volumes of fish, but Trond Lorentzen, the third-generation owner of Ivan Lorentzen Fiskeforretning, maintains that quantity doesn’t usually equal quality. “The quality from handline fishing is really good. They bring the fish up and they bleed it immediately,” says Lorentzen. “With trawling, it depends on how much they catch in one day. The fish might get injured if they’re too crowded in the nets.”

Both the fishermen and the staff at Lorentzen’s dockside processing center in Brensholmen must be careful how they catch, handle, and package the fish if there’s to be any chance of fetching the higher price commanded by product that carries NSC’s strict “quality-labeled skrei” designation. The fish must be blemish-free, bled alive, packed within twelve hours of being caught, and refrigerated at 0° to 2°C through the entire value chain from boat to factory to shop.

Lorentzen tries to point out the difference between a qualitylabeled skrei and a regular one, but he has to search down the line to find an average fish. “There are only nice fish here!” he laughs.

“OK, see, this fish has some damage to the skin. But the neck is wide and there’s no problem with the meat inside.” Still, the external skin damage is enough to disqualify it from bearing the quality-labeled skrei tag on its fin. In any given year, only 10 to 13 percent of all skrei caught are awarded the prized designation.

Lorentzen estimates that sixty to seventy tons of skrei will be unloaded at his factory this day. Some will be packaged as whole fish, some cut into fillets. The large ones, seven kilos and up, are too big to go through the processing machines and will instead be salted and dried for two to three weeks to become bacalhau. Elsewhere on the island, cod are hung from wooden racks called hjell to dry in the salty sea breeze.

Livers and roe are separated into bins for processing and packaging. Fish heads go in yet another. They will be dried and shipped to Nigeria for use in flavoring soup, but not before a group of schoolchildren get a chance to earn serious pocket money by cutting out the tongues, a prized Norwegian delicacy traditionally floured and pan-fried into tender, buttery morsels. “We have ten children between the ages of twelve and fourteen come in after school,” says Lorentzen. “They make good money, as much as NOK60,000 (USD7,000), for working a couple hours a day for three months. And it’s a good way to involve the young people and let them feel they’re a part of the skrei industry.”

106

|

TK | nordic od yssey

一艘小规模、本地经营、两人驾驶出航的捕鱼船 从小岛夏日岛 (Sommarøya) 出发，跨越沿塞尼亚 群岛向南的玛拉根峡湾口，航行约 10 到 15 公里。 他们大约在清晨五点出发，有的人用延绳，有的 用刺网，现在一人平均一天下来能拖着约三吨的 渔获量，满载而归。 小型拖捞船可以再稍微航行得更远，也可以 带回更多渔获，但 Ivan Lorentzen Fiskeforretning 第三代经营者 Trond Lorentzen 坚持，产量不一定 「手线捕鱼的质量非常高， 等于质量。Trond 说 ： 能直接把鱼捕捞上来并且立刻放血。如果用拖网， 再考虑下他们一天的捕獲获量，这些鱼也许会在 渔网内因过度拥挤而受伤。 」 由于渔获中有可能出现符合 NSC「高品质标 志挪威北极鳕鱼」严格认证标章的高单价产品， 所以渔夫和在 Brensholmen 码头渔获处理中心的 员工，必须小心谨慎地捕获、处理和包装捕获的鱼。 这些鱼必须零瑕疵，放过血，并在捕获后 12 小时 内完成包装，从船舱到贩售点全程均以 0-2°C 低 温保鲜。

Trond 试着展示得到品质标章的挪威北极鳕 鱼和一般的鱼有何差别，但他首先要找出一条品 质普通的鱼来作对比。他大笑着说 ： 「这里只有 品质好的鱼啊！好吧，看这条鱼的鱼鳞有点损伤， 但它的脖子够宽且内部鱼肉完全没有问题。 」但这 条鱼的外伤使之无法在鱼鳍上标上品质标章。在 过去几年里，只有 10-13% 捕获的挪威北极鳕鱼荣 获这个认证。

Trond 估计这天会有 60-70 吨的挪威北极鳕 鱼在工厂卸货。有些会整条包装起来，有的去骨 制成鱼片。体型较大、七公斤以上的因为太大而 无法通过处理机，便会用盐巴腌渍，经过二至三 星期的风干制成马介休。在小岛的别处，鳕鱼通 常挂在叫做 hjell 的木架上，以夹杂咸咸海水的微 风吹干。 鱼肝和鱼卵分类后放进不同的桶子处理和包 装，鱼头则另有用途。学生们从鱼头上切下舌头 以赚得零用钱。他们将鱼舌头裹粉，锅煎至软嫩， 充满奶油香，制成挪威最重要的传统小点，而鱼头 则烘干、出口到尼日利亚作为高汤的原料。Trond 说： 「我们有 10 个年纪大约在 12 到 14 岁的小孩在 放学后过来工作。他们的薪水不低，三个月间每 天都来工作几个小时，他们能赚大约 60,000 挪威 克朗 ( 美金 7,000 元 )。这是请年轻人来参与挪威 北极鳕鱼产业并让他们置身其中的好方法。 」

108

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

TROMSØ

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

109

ARNE-HARALD AND ELLINOR LARSEN have also been out on the waters since five in the morning, but the crew of husband and wife are fishing shrimp in fjords on the east side of Tromsø. It’s usually Arne-Harald and the couple’s son on the boat, but Ellinor has stepped in this year while he finishes his studies. Looking beyond the opportunity for marital companionship, she was ready and more than willing to fulfill her duty as part of a fishing family, especially on a day so calm and with skies so crystal-clear. The Larsens, living with nature and by nature, typically go out four days a week, weather permitting, and when the catch is particularly good, they’ll add a fifth day to take full advantage of the ocean’s largesse.

Today, Lyngen Fjord is peaceful and quiet. In every direction, craggy cliffs rise steeply from the deepest blue water toward the highest summits capped with snow. A pair of dolphins leap in the distance and only a single other shrimping boat ripples the inlet. During the summer, Lyngen Fjord supports at least five or six boats, but most of the other fishermen have left in pursuit of skrei and will return only with the change of seasons. Ironically, the demand for shrimp peaks in the summer, but the product is actually at its height of quality in the winter.

“During summer,” says Karin Olsen, managing director of shrimp distributer Lyngen Reker, “you might find some shrimp with soft shells after they’ve molted or have finished their spawning, which reduces the quality somewhat. But the biggest challenge is managing the temperature of the seawater, which often isn’t cold enough in summer to cool down the freshly boiled shrimp. If the fishermen don’t do a good job of cooling them quickly, their shelf life is reduced. So we always supply the boats with lots of ice.”

Fortunately, the water temperature in March, a bracing 4°C, is not an issue. After slowly trawling the fjord for several hours, the Larsens start drawing in their nets.

Attracted by the shrimp, krill, and small fish brought to the surface by the process,

110

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Larsen 夫妇 Arne-Harald 和 Ellinor 也是从清晨五点就 出航，但他们主要是在特罗姆瑟东边的峡湾捕虾。一 般是 Arne-Harald 和儿子同船，但 Ellinor 在儿子完成 学业后便一起出海作业。除了婚姻关系中的互相陪伴， 她更是作足了准备并且乐意执行她身为渔业家庭一分 子的义务。 Larsen 夫妇和大自然为伍，通常一星期出 航四天，如若天候佳且捕获量特别好的时候，他们会 乘胜追击加上第五天，好好把握海洋的恩赐。 今天，灵恩峡湾宁静安详。来自四面八方的湛蓝 海水拍打崎岖耸立的峭壁，激起浪花，高耸直上积雪 皑皑的群山山头。一对海豚在远处跳跃，另外一艘捕 虾船也在远方缓缓行驶。整个夏天，灵恩峡湾能容纳 五到六艘船，但其他的渔夫早就离开去捕挪威北极鳕 鱼，他们只会在换季的时候回来。然而，市场对虾的 需求在夏季达到高峰，但品质最好的时候却是在冬季。 虾 类 产 品 经 销 商 Lyngen Reker 营 运 总 监 Karin 「在夏天时，你也许会发现虾子在经过脱皮 Olsen 说 ： 或者产卵之后外壳变得很软，所以品质会随之下降。 然而，最大的挑战是如何根据海水温度随机应变。夏 天的海水不够冷，以至于无法冷却煮熟的虾。如果渔 夫没有作足功夫尽速冷却海水，虾的生存期就会缩短。 因此，我们总是在船上准备大量的冰块。 」 幸 运 地， 三 月 份 的 海 水 温 度 是 宜 人 的 4°C， 这 就 完 全 没 问 题 了。 经 过 几 小 时 缓 慢 在 峡 湾 里 拖 网，

Larsen 夫妇开始收网。受到拉出海面的虾子、磷虾、

TROMSØ

Arne-Harald (left) waits as the live shrimp come to a boil on his fishing boat while Ellinor (right) continues to sort out the medium and large shrimps for the next batches.

Ellinor（右图）把中 大型的虾子分类，而 Arne-Harald （左图）则 在船上等待虾子煮熟。

a flock of seagulls pierces the silence of the fjord with shrill squawking. They circle above as if in formation, taking turns swooping and diving down to snatch something from the water before returning to their place in rotation.

After emptying their nets into a large tank, the Larsens begin the exacting process of sorting the shrimp by size. Small ones are set aside and delivered raw to Lyngen Reker’s facility, which will process and package them as a cooked and peeled product. Medium and large shrimp are separated and boiled right on the boat, then immediately chilled with fresh seawater. “The Norwegian domestic market prefers cooked shrimp,” says Olsen, “and shrimp is best when it’s boiled alive – it makes a difference in both taste and texture.”

Although they are bottom trawling, the Larsens follow strict rules about which areas they can cover, at what depths, and with what equipment. The minimum stretched mesh size of their nets is thirty-five millimeters, and they use a rigid metal grid to filter and remove the unwanted bycatch of juvenile cod and haddock. Any small fish that manage to get through the grid into the nets are carefully counted, and high numbers are reported to the authorities, triggering a closure of the area to further trawling. The sustainability of their fisheries isn’t just a series of regulations for Norwegian fishermen; as with protecting the goose that lays golden eggs, it’s a nurturing way of life.

Olsen estimates the Larsens’ likely catch for the day at between 250 and 300 kilograms of shrimp. Unlike with skrei and most other species, no quotas have been set for fishing shrimp in the fjords of northern Norway. “There are different regulations for the northern and southern parts of the country,” she says. “Each fishing boat has its own quota in the south. And there’s a liberal quota in the Barents Sea, with the boats probably only catching 20 to 30 percent of that. But there aren’t any quotas in the northern fjords – our shrimp population is doing very well.”

小鱼的吸引，一群海鸥用刺耳尖锐的声响划破峡湾的 寂静。它们成群结队在上方盘旋，伺机而动，一找到 机会就向下俯冲，轮流叼走任何海底生物回巢享用。 清 空 渔 网， 将 捕 到 的 渔 获 放 进 较 大 的 桶 子，

Larsen 夫妇开始将虾子依照尺寸分类。他们将小型的 虾子直接送到 Lyngen Reker 厂区，煮熟去壳后包装贩 售，而对中大型的虾子，他们分别存放，直接在船上 「挪威 煮熟，然后放入清凉的海水中冷却。Karin 说 ： 国内市场偏好煮过的虾，而且虾子最好是在活跳跳的 时候就煮熟，这能创造出别于一般的味道和口感。 」 虽然采用海底拖网，Larsen 夫妇严格遵守捕虾的 海域、深度、器具等各项规定。最小的网目尺寸限制 为 35 毫米，且使用硬质金属网格过滤和移除意外捕到 的海洋生物，像是鳕鱼和黑线鳕的幼鱼。任何钻过网 格到拖网里的小鱼，都被小心谨慎地照顾着，一旦数 量过高便须报告主管机关，限制该区远洋拖网捕鱼作 业。永续渔业发展对挪威渔民来说不只是法令条文， 而是有如保护下金蛋的天鹅，也是繁衍继起生命之道。

Karin 估 计 Larsen 夫 妇 一 天 大 约 能 捕 获 250 至 300 公斤的虾。相较挪威北极鳕鱼或其他鱼种，在北 挪威峡湾对虾的捕获量没有上限。她解释 ： 「在我们国 家北部和南部有不同的法规，在南部每艘渔船都有它 的限额，在巴伦支海域有自主限量，渔船只能捕总获 量的 20-30%，但在北峡湾并没有任何限制，我们的 虾类生态圈维持得相当好。 」

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

111

TROMSØ

TORGEIR HASSFJORD, operations manager at one of Lerøy Seafood Group’s large-scale salmon farms, doesn’t work with fishing quotas, but rather with other categories of regulatory metrics. By Norwegian law, the total volume of salmon pens cannot comprise more than 2.5 percent fish, with seawater making up the huge remainder. “The goal is to reduce stress by giving the fish enough room to swim freely in the pens,” he says.

Given that each of the farm’s ten pens is 130 meters in diameter and 40 meters deep, there’s a lot of water per fish, more even than seems evident from the underwater camera feed displayed on the monitors in the feeding barge.

“They have just gathered around because it’s feeding time,” explains Hassfjord. “When they’re done eating, they’ll space out and begin schooling in a circle again.”

All feeding is closely controlled and monitored from the barge by three staff working in shifts. Every few seconds, pellets cascade in a shower from the feed silos and travel through pipes and tubing out to the pens, where they are sprayed from a device that rotates 360 degrees. At this stage, when the fish are nearing full size and will soon be shipped out for processing, the team releases about 13,000 kilograms of fish pellets into the pens each day.

The cameras are there to monitor the integrity of the nets as well. A top priority is averting salmon escapes to prevent the possible introduction of genetic material from the farmed fish into the indigenous wild salmon population.

Before major operations, divers are sent down to inspect the condition of the nets, and the merest suspicion of an escape triggers an emergency procedure that includes laying out a network of gillnets and contacting the fishing fleets for assistance. “Since we started fourteen years ago, we’ve had exactly 312 fish escape, and we’ve managed to recapture 250 of those,” says Hassfjord, who knows the numbers by heart and is determined to keep them from going up under his watch.

Every single day, one of the team cautiously walks the perimeter of each pen, checking that every individual rope and fastening is secure and undamaged. Even on the calmest, clearest day, the narrow platforms seem treacherously slick. “Everyone has fallen in,” Hassfjord laughs, “even me. I wasn’t paying attention and I just slipped. It was really, really

了若指掌，并且下定决心绝不再让鱼脱离他的掌控。

cold. But in the summertime, it’s not so bad – the water can even get up to 12°.”

巡视，检查每一条绳子和绳结是否安好无损。尽管是在极为安

Lerøy 海产集团大型鲑鱼场的营运经理 Torgeir Hassfjord，依 循的并非是捕鱼限额，而是别的指标。挪威法律规定，鱼群数 量不得多于鲑鱼养殖流笼容量的 2.5%，其余空间皆以海水填 「目的是为了让鱼群在流笼内拥有足够空间自由活 满。 他说 ： 动，减少鱼的压力。 」 养殖场内的 10 个流笼，每个直径 130 米，深 40 米。据 喂食船的海底相机监视画面显示，每条鱼都因此得到了更宽敞 的水底活动空间，或者鱼获得的实际空间比画面上显示的空间 「因为现在是喂食时间，所以鱼群才聚 还要大。Torgeir 解释 ： 在一起。当吃饱之后就会各自散开，并开始绕着流笼游起来。 」 每一次喂食，皆由喂食船上三位员工轮班监看，细心控 管，每隔几秒，像瀑布般落下的饲料球从喂食筒仓经过各个导 管输送到流笼， 由一台 360 度旋转的机器发送到流笼各个角落。 在这个阶段，鱼已长大到足够大小，马上会被运送出去进行处 理，团队每天都会发出将近 13,000 公斤的鱼饲料到流笼。 相机也同时监看鱼网的完好程度。避免鲑鱼逃脱是第一 要务，以减低将养殖鱼类遗传物质引进本地野生鲑鱼种群的可 能性。在采取主要行动前，先派潜水员下水侦查鱼网状况，只 要有丝毫可能逃脱的嫌疑就立刻进入紧急程序，铺天盖地设下 流网并连络渔船队寻求协助。 「自我们 14 年前开业以来，总共 」Torgeir 对于这些数字 有 312 条鱼逃脱，我们抓回了 250 条。 每一天，都有队伍的人小心翼翼地在每个养殖流笼附近 「每 静明朗的日子，狭窄的通道路面依然很滑。Torgeir 大笑说： 个人都在这跌倒过，我也不例外。有次我没有留意脚下就滑倒 了。这通道真的，真的，非常冷。夏天的情况会好一些，有时 」 候海水温度可以升到 12°C 左右。

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

113

TROMSØ

114

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

“ We’re very lucky to live in Tromsø. Some of these fish might have been brought in this morning, and we have it by three o’clock.

It’s not every city that’s blessed like that. 我们非常幸运能住在特罗姆瑟。有些鱼是今天早 上才从海上捕到的，而我们在下午三点前就能 拿到。不是所有城市都能得到这样的恩宠。” HEAD CHEF GUNNAR JENSEN, MATHALLEN RESTAURANT, TROMSØ

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

115

“ This has been one of our signature dishes since we first opened, and we serve it every day when skrei is in season.

It’s a very simple dish, but it is one of my favorites. 这是从餐馆开业就有的招牌菜，于挪威北极鳕鱼当季的时候每日供应。 这是一道非常简单的菜，但也是我最喜欢菜式之一。”

TROMSØ

Pan-fried skrei atop a leek-and-whitewine purée, with pickled red onions, soy sauce tapioca, and deep-fried leek 油煎挪威北极鳕鱼佐白酒韭葱泥， 搭配腌渍紫洋葱、酱油勾芡和酥炸韭葱

“We have cod all year round, but in different forms. We have the skrei, then we have boknafisk (half-dried cod), tørrfisk (dried cod), and klippfisk (salted cod) – and of course lutefisk for Christmas. But I always look forward to January, when I get to work with the fresh skrei again.” 「我们一整年都有鳕鱼，但以不同的方式呈现。我们有挪威北极鳕鱼，接着有boknafisk 半干鳕鱼、tørrfisk 干鳕鱼和klippfisk咸鳕鱼，当然少不了圣诞节庆常用的lutefisk碱渍鱼。 但我总是非常期待一月的到来，这表示我们又可以再次烹调新鲜的挪威北极鳕鱼。」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

117

TROMSØ

“ It’s very common in Norway to eat an open-face shrimp sandwich. I like to keep this little appetizer light and clean, with the focus on the natural flavor of the shrimp. 在挪威，整只剥好的虾放在三明治上很常见，我喜欢让这道前 菜清爽些，可将注意力集中在虾的天然味道上。” Fresh-caught boiled shrimp lightly tossed in olive oil and lemon juice, with chives and dill atop a small toast 鲜虾现捕现煮，加入橄榄油和柠檬汁稍微拌匀，撒上韭菜和莳萝，放在一小块面包上

118

|

TK | nordic od yssey

“ For me, a salmon could actually be too fresh. There’s much more flavor in one that’s been aged for three days. That might be why Norwegian salmon is so popular in Asia.

The flavor sets for sure, so it’s perfect when it arrives. 对我来说，鲑鱼可能太过新鲜，经过三天的熟成味道会更好，这也许是挪威 鲑鱼在亚洲这么受欢迎的原因。味道越陈越香，所以在鱼送达时达到完美。”

Baked salmon fillet with cauliflower, cucumber, apple, wasabi, soy sauce tapioca, and a light cream sauce with dill oil 烤鲑鱼排搭配椰菜花、黄瓜、苹果、芥末、酱油勾芡和淡奶油酱佐莳萝油

Marinated Sea Bream: sea salt, lemon, cucumber, oyster leaf 海盐柠檬腌生鲷鱼片配青 瓜、柑橘忌廉及生蚝叶

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

自我「意式」

self-expression italian style

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A gifted young chef communicates a very personal culinary vision through Aurora’s authentically Italian food.

HELDER AMARAL has been chef de cuisine of Aurora, Altira Macau’s signature Italian restaurant, for less than a year. But taking on the prestigious assignment was part of a natural career evolution for the talented 28-year-old Portuguese native, who has held positions at a number of Michelinstarred French restaurants.

For him, making the transition to standout Italian cuisine was seamless, given his previous experience with a luxury Italian hotel brand and the shared influences of two towering culinary traditions.

“I am completely passionate about this role,” says Amaral, “as much as I am about being a chef, developing the cuisine at Aurora, and continually trying new things. The menus represent my vision, a very personal story. Here I am able to express myself through my food, and I love it.”

For Aurora’s diners, this translates into fervid attention to detail, imaginative plating, a masterly balance of textures and flavors, and a keen sense of the seasonal.

A case in point is Amaral’s Marinated Sea Bream, Sea Salt, Lemon, Cucumber, Oyster Leaf, a precisely orchestrated signature bursting with freshness that he characterizes as simply “my unusual sea bream carpaccio.” Fish imported from Japan is gently pounded paper thin to emphasize its delicate texture and perfectly paired with cucumber, presented in varying iterations that include gel and

Chef de Cuisine Helder Amaral

对才华出众的青年主厨来说，出任重要 职位其实是职业发展规划中再自然不过 的一步。28 岁的 Helder Amaral 来自葡萄 牙，曾于多家米其林星级法式餐厅历练 多时，担任澳门新濠锋招牌意大利餐厅 「奥罗拉」主厨也已经快一年了。Helder 早先还曾效力于豪奢意大利品牌系列酒

店，修炼了一身功夫，汇集了两大顶级 料理传统之长。因此，对他来说，转战 意大利菜系完全不费吹灰之力。Helder 强调 ： 「 我 全 身 投 入 新 工 作， 同 时 对 于 厨师专业、在『奥罗拉』拓展烹饪的可 能性以及尝试新作法也注入同等的热情。 菜色反映了我的梦想及个人故事。在这 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

121

Veal Shank Agnolotti, Braised Veal, White and Green Asparagus, Morel Mushroom, Parmesan Emulsion, Confit Onion 意式焖牛仔腿肉饺配青芦笋、白芦笋、 羊肚菌、巴马臣芝士汁、洋葱酱

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

raw. A contrasting acidity comes from confit lemon cream, rounded out with oyster leaves that play on subtle notes of the sea.

Among the chef ’s trademark dishes is his Slow Cooked Suckling Pig, which takes two days to prepare. Inspiration for it came from a wine dinner at which the chef served a whole suckling pig deboned. He carried this idea forward, in homage to the traditional porchetta, with marinated pork belly that is stuffed, rolled, and braised at low temperature for up to eighteen hours until meltingly tender. Each succulent portion of Amaral’s pork is tucked into Aurora’s pizza oven to warm and, most importantly, to create crackling that is perfectly crisped. The dish is complemented with silky celeriac purée, cubes of twice-cooked potato, turned seasonal vegetables, and a savory port jus. “I am super happy with this dish,” says Amaral.

Pasta is another of his specialties, with offerings changing with the time of year.

“Each pasta dish is inspired by Italian traditions,” says Amaral, “but becomes my contemporary interpretation of the season on a plate.” One excellent example is Veal Shank Agnolotti, fresh pasta filled with braised veal and served with white and green asparagus, morel mushroom, parmesan emulsion, and onion confit. It’s an elegant plate, revealing the refinement of Amaral’s sensibilities in the combination of ingredients. He sources many of his ingredients from Italy, such as hazelnuts and ham, and others from France, such as premium asparagus, but his highest priority is always to find the best.

Amaral’s overarching culinary philosophy is based on the principle that less is very often more. “There are never more than three or four distinct flavors on each plate – otherwise it confuses the palate. There must be a harmony among the ingredients, a balance that I believe Aurora excels at.”

For the future, Amaral has his sights set on Michelin stars, and in light of his approach, the goal seems eminently within reach: “My commitment is always to cook food that I believe in and never to send anything to the table unless I’m proud of it.”

Homemade Suckling Pig Porchetta, Espelette Potato, Spring Vegetables With a Selection of Fine Mustards 意式烤乳猪配埃斯佩莱特薯仔，春季蔬菜，自选多款芥末酱

里，我可以用做菜尽情展现自我，感觉 再好不过了！」 光临「奥罗拉」的食客也将有全新 体验。餐厅为食客呈现讲究细节的美馔、 天马行空的摆盘、 完美平衡的口感与味道， 以及紧跟季节脚步的时令鲜味。主厨的海 盐柠檬腌生鲷鱼片、青瓜及生蚝叶正是绝 佳例子，精确发挥各食材的特色，迸发鲜 甜滋味。对此，他却仅用「我的特色生鲷 鱼盘」一句带过，相当云淡风轻。日本直 送的鱼肉悉心切成如纸般的薄片，细致的 口感，与青瓜形成绝配，并以鱼冻以及生 鱼片等不同形式上桌 ；油封柠檬酱的酸 度搭配生蚝叶变得柔和，减少味道的冲突 性，也可尝到精妙的海洋鲜味。 他的招牌菜之一意式烤乳猪需要两 天时间准备。这道菜可以追溯至某个餐 酒晚宴，当时主厨曾端出了整只去骨烤 乳猪。后来，Helder 将那位主厨的概念 视为灵感，再进一步改良了传统意式烤 乳猪。他先将腌猪肚填料、卷裹后低温 炖煮 18 小时，直至入口即化的软嫩程度。 Helder 对每块猪肉都进行精挑细选，然 后将其中多汁的部分放进「奥罗拉」披 萨烤炉加热，烤出完美酥脆度的外皮。

烤乳猪配上口感柔滑的芹菜泥、熬煮两 次的薯块、料理过的季节时蔬以及风味 十足的波特酒酱汁。 他说 ： 「做这道菜 真的让人心情很好。」 意大利粉也是主厨的拿手菜，种类 随每年季节变化而有所不同。 他说明 ： 「每道意粉都以意式传统为出发点，加以 我对季节食材的现代演绎上桌。」意式焖 牛仔腿肉饺正是其中的代表，新鲜意粉 包裹焖牛仔腿肉，再搭配青芦笋、羊肚菌、 巴马臣芝士汁及洋葱酱。这道菜风格优 雅，体现 Helder 组合各式食材的细腻触 觉。主厨自意大利进口许多食材，如榛 果及火腿，其他像顶级芦笋则是从法国 直送，以找到最棒的食材为第一优先。 Helder 那包罗万象的烹饪哲学其实 重点无他，以「少即是多」为最大原则。 他解释 ： 「每道菜不能超过三种或四种主 要味道，否则会变得杂乱。各种食材应该 和谐共存，达到平衡，也是我眼中『奥罗 拉』的过人之处。 」Helder 以摘下米其林 星星为未来目标，以他目前的烹饪风格来 看，那一天似乎就近在咫尺。他认为： 「我 只料理我相信的食材，没信心的菜绝不送 上桌，这是我给自己及餐厅的承诺。 」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

123

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

制面艺术

noodles as art form

“Shanghainese Style” Grouper Fillet and Preserved Vegetable Noodle Soup 沪式雪菜鱼汤面

124

|

TK | nordic od yssey

A NEW RESTAURANT will be opening locally this summer with a bold promise: “I am confident that Ji Xiang Noodle House will serve the best noodles and noodle dishes in Macau and Hong Kong.” So says Calvin Soh, Director, Culinary Operations, Food and Beverage, at City of Dreams.

Ji Xiang plans to offer a whole range of handcrafted noodles, such as knife-shaved and hand-pulled, prepared in several ways, including tossed and in soup. There will also be eight signature noodle specialties, each dedicated to a different region of China.

One of the best of these is Shanghainese Style Grouper Fillet and Preserved Vegetable Noodle Soup, a delicate offering featuring thick, luscious noodles with a superb mouthfeel. The dish is complemented by perfectly cooked grouper fillet, balanced by the tang of roasted preserved vegetables prepared in-house, and brought together by a flavorintense broth made from the remainder of the fish. Another appealing example is the barbecue-smoked, slow-cooked Sichuan Style Spicy Beef Brisket Noodle Soup.

“It’s not easy to make great noodles – it’s an art form – especially hand-pulled noodles, which are very tricky. And we never take any shortcuts, which makes us unique in the market.” Unhappy with the quality of flour available, Ji Xiang’s chefs decided to buy theirs in whole-grain form, often organic, and to mill it themselves on a traditional stone grinder. Making the dough is equally painstaking, requiring numerous foldings, rest periods, and refoldings.

Consummate skills, as well as premium ingredients, are another essential. Soh visited northern China numerous times to further understand the nuances of noodles by watching true masters in action. “This was vital in order to be completely authentic.”

He also interviewed a great many candidates before selecting Ji Xiang’s master noodle

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

From the flour to the dough to the practiced skill of hand-pulling, the expert chefs of Ji Xiang Noodle House have mastered every step of their craft.

Chef de Partie Li Qi 高级厨师李奇

well-guarded secrets, but their complexity of flavor speaks loudly of the time and skill that were required to perfect them. Almost every other element of the cuisine, including the condiments, is also made in-house, and no artificial ingredients or MSG are ever used.

Rounding out the noodle offerings is a variety of complementary cold side dishes, as well as the restaurant’s extensive range of handcrafted dumplings, some with colorful skins infused with carrot, spinach, or chili, others filled with savory pork or tender crab.

Every meticulous touch at Ji Xiang Noodle House is carried out, says Soh, to further the ultimate goal: taking the humble, ubiquitously consumed bowl of noodles and raising it to an edible work of art.

新濠天地今夏将有新餐厅开张，餐饮部厨 艺营运总监 Calvin Soh 打包票保证 ： 「我有 信心，来『吉祥面栈』能吃得到全澳门及 香港最棒的面及面食料理。」 「吉祥面栈」提供刀削面及手拉面等各 式自家手工面，吃法也有所不同，有拌面 及汤面可供选择。大江南北八种特式面也 是餐厅的一大特色，旨在向中国不同地区 的风格致敬。沪式雪菜鱼汤面正是其中的 翘楚，美味、口感绝佳的粗面搭配煮得恰 到好处的石斑鱼肚，加上味道强烈的自制 炸雪菜，一起放进以剩下鱼身熬煮的浓郁 高汤熬煮，味道更加平衡，融为一体。另 外一道经烧烤烟熏、文火慢煮的四川红烧 牛肉汤面也是一道非吃不可的菜品。 面店表示 ： 「面要做得好并不容易，制 面是种艺术，特别是手拉面，需要极高的 技巧。我们不走捷径，因此在市场上独树 一帜。」正是这种拒绝妥协的精神造就「吉 祥面栈」面条那无可挑剔的味道及口感。 市售面粉品质无法符合师傅们的标准，他 们便干脆直接购入多为有机的全谷麦，用 传统石磨自行制粉。做面团一样劳心劳力， 需要不断拉折、留时间发酵，然后再拉折， 反覆再三。 炉火纯青的技巧及顶级食材都是不可 或缺的要素。Calvin 曾多次远赴华北地区， 近距离观察面食大师实际作业的情形，想

要亲身掌握制面的每个小细节。他强调： 「要 学最正宗的面食料理没有其他方法。」为了 帮「吉祥」寻觅专家级制面师傅，他面试 了许多人选，最终找到一位懂得使用巧劲、 有着 36 年经验的制面教父级人物。 Calvin 表示，「吉祥面栈」煮面强调精 准，细面、粗面及刀削面等每种面条的弹 牙度都要拿捏得刚刚好，不容丝毫偏差。 层次繁复的调和油则是另一项秘诀，为各 式菜色味道的基底。月桂叶、八角、辣椒、 四川花椒及多种秘传材料充分混和后慢慢 倒入蔬菜油中，直至达到预期的浓稠度。 据 Calvin 透露，此款调和油的香料及草本 材料与油约为五五比例，造价之高为同类 产品之最。高汤的作法一样秘不外传，但 从丰富的味道可知，势必也是大量时间投 入及高超技巧的结晶。另外，烹调会用到 的各种材料，如佐料等，也全是餐厅自制， 不加任何人工成分或味精。 除了面类之外，餐厅也供应风味凉菜 及各式手工饺子，包含多种和入红萝卜、 菠菜及辣椒的彩色饺子，还有包入风味十 足的猪肉或鲜嫩蟹肉馅的饺子，菜品应有 尽有。Calvin 形容，「吉祥面栈」的师傅做 事一丝不苟，能注意到的小细节通通不放 过，只为了达到终极目标 – 将平凡、四处 吃得到的庶民面食提升到全新境界，变成 美味的艺术品。

126

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG

maker, an imposing figure of a man with the delicate touch of a butterfly and thirty-six years’ experience.

Soh emphasizes that Ji Xiang’s noodles will always be precision-cooked al dente to ensure perfect texture for each individual type, from thin to thick to knife-shaved.

Another defining feature is the use of the complex master oil blend used as a base in developing the flavor of various dishes. It’s a secret mix that includes bay leaf, star anise, chili, and Sichuan pepper, which are slowly infused in vegetable oil until the right intensity is achieved. With a nearly fifty-fifty ratio of spices and herbs to oil, it is, according to Soh, the costliest product of its type ever produced. The recipes for soup broths are equally

Tossed Noodle with Welsh Lamb and Homemade Spicy Morel Sauce 麻辣酱羊肉拌面

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

nordic odyssey

|

TK |

127

爱「吃」之城

for the love of food Galaxy Macau’s Love·Eat campaign makes spring more delicious than ever.

Now there’s even more reason to make a foodie’s pilgrimage to Galaxy Macau™. The city’s favorite dining destination is holding a Love·Eat experience, pampering food lovers with an irresistible bounty of international dishes from the resort’s galaxy of award-winning restaurants. From flame-kissed rib eye steak to savory tortelli all’amatriciana to an Italian semifreddo to keep things cool, Galaxy Macau’s sumptuous spring selections make this the most delectable of seasons.

§ 现在，有更多理由让美食家到「澳門銀河 ™ 」朝圣。 这个最受瞩目的美食殿堂推出庆典般的「爱 • 吃」餐饮 体验，「澳門銀河」多间得奖餐厅以一系列令人无法 抗拒的国际美食骄宠美食爱好者的味蕾。不论是火 焰炙烧肉眼牛排、或者是风味极佳的意式云吞配西 红柿，还是沁凉畅快的意式冰霜，「澳門銀河」 在这春季精选的各式豪华美食，绝对是宜人季 节里最物超所值的选择。 Organic Green Asparagus: scampi tartare, sea urchin, basil 有机绿芦笋：海鳌虾塔塔、海胆、罗勒

128

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU

Baby Lamb from Pyrenees: semi-dried tomato, red bell pepper puree, fava bean, green peas, barley, natural jus

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA Galaxy Macau’s one-Michelin-star Italian restaurant 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA ushers in spring with the freshest of asparagus, sourced from an organic farm in France’s Loire Valley, lightly poached to retain its sweetness, and paired with scampi tartare. Dressed with an emulsion of orange and lemon, it is finished with a basil-oil drizzle and luxurious Japanese uni. A main of Baby Pyrenees Lamb is rolled in its own skin, roasted à la minute with a heady mix of fresh herbs and French butter, and accompanied by sautéed fava beans and green peas and a side of spelt risotto. Capping the meal is a refreshing semifreddo garnished with Italian lemons and honey and paired with fresh imported blood oranges, kumquats, mandarins, and grapefruit. “We’re always trying to find a balance between intensity of flavor and lightness,” says executive chef Antimo Maria Merone, “and these dishes are fresh, seasonal, immediate, pleasing to the eye, and without compromise in terms of taste.”

比利牛斯山脉羊羔肉：半干西红柿、 红甜 椒酱泥、蚕豆、 豌豆、薏米、羊肉原汁

「澳門銀河」的米其林一 星 意 大 利 餐 厅 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA 以 一系列精美菜肴为春天 揭开序幕。先用热水微 烫从法国卢瓦尔河谷有 机农场采摘的新鲜芦芛 以保留甜味，搭配海蟞 虾塔塔佐柳橙和柠檬淡 乳酱，最后撒上几滴罗 勒油和日本海胆作为点 缀。主菜比里牛斯小羔 羊直接以其外皮把肉卷 起，刷上混合新鲜香草 和法国奶油的浓稠酱料 以快火炙烤，配上斯佩耳特小麦制成的炖饭、炒蚕 豆和碗豆。主菜之后是让人耳目一新、以意大利柠 檬和蜂蜜装饰的意式冰霜，搭配进口血橙、金桔、 柑橘和葡萄柚。行政总厨 Antimo Maria Merone 说：

Lemon & Honey Semifreddo: fresh citrus, lemon cream, apricot sauce 柠檬蜂蜜冰霜： 新鲜柑 橘、柠檬奶油、杏桃酱

「我们试着在强烈的口味和清爽间找到平衡。这些料 理非常新鲜、当季、贴近人心，充满视觉享受，味 道上也绝不妥协。 」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

129

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU

Tortelli All’Amatriciana Handmade Pasta “Amatriciana Style” with Soft Pecorino Sauce 意式云吞配西红柿及起司汁

TERRAZZA ITALIAN RESTAURANT

庭园意大利餐厅

Tiramisú Terrazza Tiramisu 经典提拉米苏

For Italian cuisine that’s homemade and hearty or light enough for a quick meal, Terrazza, Galaxy Macau’s Michelin-starred contemporary Italian restaurant, has every palate in mind. Diners can enjoy signatures like Tortelli with Amatriciana and Pecorino Sauce, a modern interpretation of a traditional Italian dish that was taught to head chef Andrea Fioravanti by his grandmother. Housemade tortelli shells are filled with fresh basil and Datterino tomatoes and then lavishly drizzled with hearty amatriciana sauce, one of the best-loved in Italian cuisine, made with tomatoes, guanciale (cured pork cheek), and pecorino.

Rack of Lamb with Kratiem Garlic Cream and 说到意大利料理，不管是自制、丰盛的菜品， Potato Dumplings features 还是清淡的餐点， 「澳門銀河」的米其林一星 the meat cooked sous vide 庭园意大利餐厅都深黯其道。顾客可享用餐厅 and then quickly seared. It is 招牌菜如意式云吞配西红柿及起司汁，是行政 served with flavorful grilled 总厨 Andrea Fioravanti 以创新手法展现祖母教 artichokes and potato dump导的传统意大利料理。餐厅自制的意式云吞， lings and an aromatic shallot使用新鲜罗勒和达特里诺 (Datterino) 西红柿作 and-garlic cream sauce. “We 内馅，然后豪气地洒上浓厚的培根西红柿酱－ finish the dish with some 用西红柿、风干咸猪颈肉和意大利佩科里诺奶 natural lamb jus,” says head 酪制成，是 Andrea Fioravanti 最喜欢的意式料 chef Fioravanti. “The combi理之一。 nation of the juicy meat and 在烹调另一道菜品烤羊架配蒜茸奶油、土 the perfume of the forest 豆面团、洋蓟及香葱时，餐厅将羊肉以真空低 makes for an amazing taste.” 温烹调法烹煮后加以炙烧，搭配味道丰富的烤

洋蓟和土豆面团，淋上香气四溢的红葱蒜头奶 「我们加一点羊肉油作 油酱。主厨 Andrea 说 ： 收尾，将鲜美多汁的肉融合来自森林的香气， 造就出令人惊艳的味道。 」

130

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Brandt Family Rib Eye, Aged 30 Days 布兰特家族 肉眼扒，30日熟成

THE APRON 蚝吧扒房

Seasonal Oyster 时令生蚝

Famous for its insistence on deluxe ingredients, The Apron Oyster Bar & Grill diligently sources from only the world’s highest quality farms, and the effort is evident in every dish that comes to the table. Menu highlights this season are their renowned Dry-Aged US Sirloin and Rib Eye Steak. The prize beef comes from California’s Brandt family farm, a favorite supplier with fine-dining chefs and epicures around the world for their practice of producing all-natural and antibiotic-free premium meat from cattle raised on a diet rich in corn and alfalfa. After being meticulously dry-aged at The Apron, the cuts are cooked on a Beechwood Grill to bring out their extraordinary juiciness and full flavor. And diners at The Apron can accompany their meal with pairings from a carefully chosen wine list, including such premium examples as the fruity Chilean red, Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere, Rapel Valley. 以坚持选用豪华食材闻名，The Apron 蚝吧扒房精挑细选全球首屈一指的 农庄采购食材，美味成果于端上桌的每道料理中展露无遗。本季亮点是著 名的美国风干熟成的西冷扒和肉眼扒。这些顶级牛肉来自加州布兰特家族

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

农场，该农场主要生产以自然且无抗生素方式饲养的顶级牛肉，牛只是用 玉米和紫花苜蓿全素喂养，故成为高级餐饮主厨和世界级美食行家最爱的 供应商。 The Apron 的牛肉经过熟成处理后，切下肉块，在 Beechwood

Grill 炉上鲜烤，完整保留无比鲜美的肉汁和丰富的味道。客人亦可从 The Apron 的酒单挑选与主菜搭配的佳酿，其中包括来自智利兰佩谷孔雀酒厂 的干露侯爵卡麦妮红酒。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

131

TASTING NOTES

国际化的粤菜之味

cantonese roots, global shoots Joseph Tse, head chef of The Eight, draws upon an illustrious worldwide career to infuse classic Cantonese food with international flair.

DAVID HARTUNG

MOST CHEFS might well be intimidated when handed the reins of a three-Michelinstar restaurant. But Joseph Tse is not most chefs. When the Hong Kong native was called on two years ago to lead the kitchens of The Eight, Grand Lisboa Hotel’s multipleaward-winning Chinese restaurant, he began reliving his earliest memories of Macau for culinary direction. “In my youth, I used to come here for eating trips with my friends,” Tse recalls, “but it has changed so much since then.”

大多数厨师得知要带领米其林三星餐厅便 胆战心怯，裹足不前，但谢锦松师傅和他 们不一样。他是土生土长的香港人，两年 前受命赴澳门新葡京酒店，带领多次获奖 的中菜食府「8 餐厅」的厨房团队，这也 让他想起早期在澳门学料理的回忆。他回 忆道 ： 「我年轻时常跟朋友特地到这里来一 次『美食之旅』。这里变化真的很大。」 经过城市开发的洗礼，澳门的料理变 得更多元化，可以迎合来自中国和世界各 地 、川流不息的游客愈发大胆创新的口味。 谢师傅当然明白这一点，他从不独沽一味， 致力提供国际化的美食。今年六十三岁的 他，曾在中国大陆、加拿大及马来西亚的 一流餐厅掌厨近 40 年，目前仍定期前往这 些国家教导新生代的厨师。各国的丰沛滋 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

133

TASTING NOTES

味在他的烹调中展露无遗，菜品揉合了广 东菜和其他国家的顶级食材，如法国鱼子 酱、日本和牛、意大利西西里岛大虾等。 他表示 ： 「我们用简单的做法，让新鲜 食材发光发亮。 」但主厨其实自谦了，他所 炮制的精美菜肴显示其日积月累之功，每一 道菜都经至少十次修正，才正式列入菜单。 每一名餐厅员工，不论是前台招待人员或二 厨助理，都有机会提出意见，让菜式更臻完 美。 谢师傅说 ： 「我很幸运和这群年轻人一 起共事，大家总有源源不绝的新点子。 」

134

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG

The territory’s urban development now sprawls across a much wider stretch to accommodate the endless stream of Chinese tourists and international visitors, whose taste buds have become increasingly adventurous. Tse should know, for his palate is just as cosmopolitan. The sixty-three-yearold spent most of his four-decade culinary career cooking in top kitchens across mainland China, Canada, and Malaysia and still travels regularly to mentor young chefs in the region. The seasoned global inflections show in his cooking, which masterfully marries classic Cantonese recipes with premium ingredients rarely found in the traditional Chinese larder, such as French caviar, Japanese wagyu, and Sicilian prawns.

“We keep things simple to let the freshness of the ingredients speak for themselves,” says Tse. But one wonders if he is merely being humble, for the subtle refinements of his dishes reveal the relentless pursuit of perfection behind their creation: every dish undergoes at least ten rounds of trials before it is placed on the menu, and everyone, from front-of-house staff to junior commis cook, has the chance to give feedback for improvement. “I’m fortunate to have a young kitchen team,” he says, “and we are always full of new ideas.”

Simmered Giant King Prawn with White Asparagus 玉簪露荀大虾皇 It’s no exaggeration when Chef Tse says he’s selected the best prawns in the world for this creation: the superlative quality of the Costa Rican king prawns is apparent from the moment the dish is set on the table. Each crustacean, weighing in at an impressive 250 grams, is lightly poached in a premium aromatic stock made with chicken, pork, and Jinhua ham to retain the seafood’s delicate sweetness and just the right amount of bite.

A testament to the chef’s exacting nature, Tse’s sourcing of the white asparagus from France, Holland, and Germany for no more than a fortnight from each place of origin ensures that The Eight receives the product only in peak condition throughout its short season. 主厨谢锦松表示这道创意料理采用世上最棒 的明虾，绝非夸夸而谈。当这道菜端上餐桌， 一眼就能看出产自哥斯达黎加的大明虾果真 不同凡响。每一只虾皆重达 250 克，放入以 顶级鸡肉、猪肉和金华火腿熬制的汤头，略 微汆烫一下便捞起，以保留海鲜的细致甜味， 送入口中份量刚好。尽管产季甚短，谢师傅 只选用法国、荷兰和德国等地区，并于两星 期内产地直送的白芦笋。 「8 餐厅」所用的食 材均极新鲜，由此可见他一丝不苟的个性。

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

135

TASTING NOTES

Steamed Garoupa Fillet with Sun-dried Italian Tomato 西西里茄干蒸星斑件 Tomatoes are one of Tse’s most-preferred ingredients, particularly for their perfect pairing with many types of seafood.

For this dish, a seaonal dish of the restaurant, he juxtaposes the robust flavor of sun-dried Don Alfonso Italian tomatoes – intensified further in the form of a concentrated paste – against the mild, meaty flakes of gently steamed garoupa. The tomatoes are sourced from the farm of the Iaccarino family, who operate several restaurants worldwide including Don Alfonso 1890 at Grand Lisboa Hotel as well as their original two-Michelin-star flagship in Sorrento, Italy.

136

|

TK | nordic od yssey

谢师傅最爱以番茄入馔，用来搭配各式 海鲜最对味。这道蒸石斑鱼是餐厅的季 节限定菜式。主厨采用风味强烈的意大 利当奥丰素番茄干，制成番茄酱后滋味 更浓郁，可衬托出清蒸石斑鱼的清甜肉 质。谢师傅特别选用 Iaccarino 家族农场 所栽种的番茄，他们于世界各地开设餐 厅，包括位于新葡京酒店的「当奥丰素

1890」意式料理餐厅和位于意大利索伦 托、米其林二星的旗舰店。

PRESENTED BY

Steamed Whole Crab and Shrimps with Stewed Rice and Imitation Shark’s Fin in Lotus Leaf

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

素翅膏蟹鲜虾荷叶饭 Style meets plenty of substance in this signature dish at The Eight.

Packed beneath the showstopping outward presentation of green crab claws, shrimps, and cruelty-free vegetarian shark’s fin is plenty of flavor, thanks to generous serves of barbecued goose, Chinese mushrooms, and Japanese conpoy. It’s all meticulously woven together: the fried rice is made of a three-to-one mix of jasmine and Japanese rice, and the egg whites and yolks are fried separately to bring out the subtleties of their differing flavors, says Tse. To round off the multi-sensory treat, even the lotus leaf encasements are fashioned from a mix of fresh and dried lotus leaves for a more robust fragrance.

这道招牌菜不但材料丰富，同时风格独到。 膏蟹蟹爪、虾、素鱼翅组成了令人惊艳的外 观，再加上了份量澎湃的烤鹅、传统香菇和 日本干贝，呈现出美妙的口感。以三比一比 例混合的泰国茉莉香米和日本米炒成香气四 溢的炒饭，还将蛋白、蛋黄分开煎，谢师傅 说如此方能带出各自的精华，交织成细腻独 到的口味。为了提升感官享受，即使是外头 的荷叶也是由新鲜荷叶与干荷叶组成，香气 更形馥郁。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

137

↑

→

Egg White with Crabmeat and Morel Mushroom,

Stir-fried Australian Lobster Ball in Chili and Wine Lees

topped with Caviar

Sauce Accompanied by Crispy Beancurd

黑鱼子生拆蟹肉羊肚菌白芙蓉

干烧澳洲龙虾球伴金砖豆腐

Spooning a heap of caviar where it doesn’t belong may be a cheap trick for lesser chefs, but Tse’s culinary prowess needs no gimmicks.

In this dish, the Oscietra Imperial caviar, the same that is served at three-Michelin-star Robuchon au Dôme at Grand Lisboa Hotel, isn’t just eye candy. It adds delightful savory bursts to an already indulgent mélange of steamed green crabmeat, fluffy egg whites, and morsels of prized morel mushroom. Despite its premium global trimmings, this creation takes inspiration from a far humbler Cantonese classic from Shunde made with fried egg white, fresh milk, and Yunnan ham. Says Tse, “I like to make East and West meet.”

Come to The Eight for its impressive Cantonese culinary repertoire, but stay for its remarkable flavor journey, as it leads guests across the whole of Greater China. One-fifth of The Eight’s menu is dedicated to showcasing Chinese cooking beyond the familiarly Cantonese, as in this stir-fried lobster ball especially created for spice-addicted diners.

The Sichuan-inspired menu highlight pairs meaty lobster balls wok-fried in tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns and piquant chili bean sauce (doubanjiang ) and served with hearty strips of white beancurd deep-fried to a golden crisp.

二等厨师不知道何时该用鱼子酱，通常随便舀一匙了事，但谢师傅深

「8 餐厅」的广东菜式丰富，食客慕名而来。同时，他们在此

谙画龙点睛之道。这道菜选用的 Oscietra 皇家鱼子酱，质量上乘，同

处流连，慢慢享受这趟丰盛的美味之旅，皆因大半个中国的

样被位于新葡京酒店的米其林三星「天巢法国餐厅」选用，并非只为

精髓尽在其中。菜单上有五分之一的菜式来自中国的五湖四

了摆盘好看而已。蒸膏蟹肉，搭配打得蓬松的蛋白，加上少量的上等

海，这道干烧龙虾球便是专为嗜辣的饕客而准备。这道菜取

羊肚菌，菜品原本的滋味已相当美妙亦具层次感，淋上鱼子酱更令人

材自四川，肥美的澳洲龙虾球在大镬中翻炒，撒上四川麻辣

惊喜。这道料理的灵感源自一道平凡的广东菜 — 顺德传统炸蛋白配

的干胡椒和惹味的豆瓣酱，搭配金黄酥脆的油炸长条豆腐，

云南火腿和鲜奶。谢师傅说 ： 「我喜欢东西方交会的火花。 」

堪称绝品。

138

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

TASTING NOTES

斯德哥尔摩群岛之魂

SPIRIT OF THE ARCHIPELAGO On their fifth-generation family farm, a dedicated couple craft artisan spirits that reflect the character and heritage of Sweden.

早前，有消息指出瑞典国营酒精饮料制造 RICHARD JANSSON and Kristina Anerfält商 Vin & Sprit 集团将计划出售旗下业务， Jansson felt their hearts skip a beat when 还打算将大名鼎鼎的 Bellman 酒桶捐给斯 they first heard the rumor of plans to sell 德哥尔摩烈酒博物馆 Spritmuseum。消息 Vin & Sprit, the Swedish state-owned alco一出，Richard Jansson 和 Kristina Anerfältholic beverage producer, and to donate the Jansson 夫妇感到非常震惊。 legendary Bellman barrels to Stockholm’s 1,800 公 升 的 巨 型 Bellman 酒 桶 是 以 Spritmuseum. 十八世纪瑞典知名作曲家兼游唱诗人 Carl The enormous 1,800-liter barrels, which Michael Bellman 命 名 的。 他 透 were named after Carl Michael BY 过谱出的曲子让瑞典潘趣酒变 Bellman, the famous eighMAMIE CHEN 得家喻户晓。这种酒桶曾经用以 teenth-century composer and 储存瑞典国民酒的主要原料印 troubadour who immortalized PHOTOGRAPHY BY 尼亚力酒。这个酒桶代表着真 Swedish punsch in his music, DAVID HARTUNG 实的瑞典历史，但过去五十年 once held reserves of Indonesian 间，这种酒桶的储藏数量已经 arrack, a key ingredient in the 越来越少了。Jansson 夫妇深切地渴望拥有 national drink. Lost to a storage shed for 一个这样的酒桶。他们经营的小规模酿酒 the past fifty years, the barrels represented 厂 Norrtelje Brenneri 位于斯德哥尔摩群岛 a genuine piece of Swedish history, and the 上一个美丽的海岸城市－罗斯拉根市中心。 Janssons desperately wanted one for their Richard 四处奔走，但他的提案全都遭到了 small distillery, Norrtelje Brenneri, located 拒绝。经过几年的持续讨论，他终于说服 in the heart of Roslagen, north of the capital 博物馆给他们签发了一个名为 Fader Berg in a beautiful coastal region of the Stock的 Bellman 酒桶的使用权，Fader Berg 也是 holm archipelago. 目前唯一一个再度投入服务的酒桶。 Jansson put in some calls and was turned 他们一向小心翼翼地进行着检查维护 down. “But ‘no’ is not an answer,” he laughs, 的工作。酒桶的维护状况显示他们其实大 “It’s simply a starting point for negotiation.” 可把年产量订得高一些，但为了保护 Fader After many discussions, he finally convinced Berg 酒桶，Jannsons 夫妇决定将年产量订 the museum to grant them the use of a Bell为 400 瓶铸有独立编号的酒。如果将木桶 man barrel named Fader Berg (Father Berg), 装到全满，他们就可以测试板条的承受力， the only one today returned to operational 但是他们不敢这么做。他们别出心裁地将 status. 亚力酒装到半满，几天后再把酒从桶子里 To protect Fader Berg, the Janssons 倒出来，这样相同的过程会重复八次。接 capped annual production at 400 individ着，蒸馏专家 Kristina 将传统亚力酒结合 ually numbered bottles, although careful 必备的水、砂糖、柑橘和香料，再加上用 monitoring of the barrel indicates they may 洋槐蜂蜜和有机苹果所酿造的苹果蒸馏酒， be able to increase that number a bit. Not 造就了限量版的 Bellman 潘趣酒。她形容 daring to test the staves by filling it to capac这是最接近外曾祖母喜欢喝的潘趣酒口味。 ity, they ingeniously spray arrack around the 虽然这款瑞典潘趣酒的主要原料是由 inside of the barrel until partially full and 国外进口，但为了遵守宣扬「斯德哥尔摩 let it rest a few days before draining and 群 岛 烈 酒 」 的 承 诺，Norrtelje Brenneri 会 repeating the process eight times. Master 往 Bellman 潘趣酒中加入使用当地苹果制 distiller Anerfält-Jansson then combines

•

140

|

TK | nordic od yssey

PRESENTED BY NORRTELJE BRENNERI

NORDIC ODYSSEY | TK |

141

↑ The Janssons converted the original barn into a working distillery and have slowly renovated the space to include a beautiful showroom for tastings and special events.

Janssons夫妇把谷仓改造成酿酒厂， 再慢慢把附近的空间翻新成一个美丽 的展厅，供试酒和其他活动之用。 • Norrtelje Brenneri has partnered with Pear & Carrot for distribution in Hong Kong of their Roslags Gin, Punsch, Whiskypunsch (WP) and Sailing schnapps. They are available for retail purchase at SverigeShoppen at Unit 1825A, 18/F, Star House, No. 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.

Norrtelje Brenneri 与 Pear & Carrot 合作，在香港分销品牌旗 下的罗斯拉根烈酒，潘趣酒， 威士忌潘趣酒和杜松子酒。 以上各款酒均于位于香港九龙尖 沙咀梳士巴利道3号星光行18楼 1825A室的SverigeShoppen有售。

PRESENTED BY NORRTELJE BRENNERI

the history-laden arrack with the requisite water, sugar, citrus, and spices and distills it along with her personal touch of acacia honey and apple spirits made with bio-grown apples from their own garden. The result is the limited-edition Bellman Punsch that Jansson describes as “closest to the punsch that the mothers of our mothers’ mothers were drinking.”

What’s called Swedish punsch ironically contains mainly imported ingredients, but Norrtelje Brenneri fulfills its promise of sharing “the spirit of the Stockholm archipelago” by including the distillate of homegrown apples in Bellman Punsch.

The couple’s original Roslag Punsch, which gained them much success in Sweden, contains plum spirit. Their entire portfolio, in fact, features fruits and herbs handpicked from their farm or sourced from the surrounding archipelago, first used in their fruit spirits and now also in production of akvavit, vodka, whiskey, glögg, and gin.

“Because we’re family owned and operated, we can do what we want,” says Jansson.

“We only produce what we like, and we only sell to the people we like.”

With their newest line of gin, AnerfältJansson is testing her skills by producing a London dry gin, which by the EU’s strict definition allows cutting the distillate only with water and forbids any after-the-fact additions of flavorings or colorings. “I have to control all the flavor inside the still,” she explains.

Hers is a soft gin, characterized by a fruity essence that rounds out the prevailing juniper flavor. “It’s the rowan berry,” she says of the locally sourced fruit. “You can’t taste it, exactly, but if we removed it, you’d notice the difference. It gives a base for the citrus, rose petals, and botanicals.”

Jansson suggests a martini containing the unique gin along with another distinctive native product. While he admits the offbeat combination takes both Swedes and international customers aback, he encourages them to “live a little!” by replacing the classic olive with sill, Sweden’s famous marinated spiced herring.

Norrtelje Brenneri features unique and eye-catching bottles: elegantly curved for punsch, nautically-angled for Sailing schnapps, strong and square for gin and whisky.

Norrtelje Brenneri为他们精心酿制的酒挑选独特且让人印象深刻的酒瓶：潘趣酒瓶拥有 优雅的曲线，杜松子酒瓶充满航海风，琴酒和威士忌酒瓶则线条刚硬，棱角分明。

作的蒸馏酒。在最初酿造罗斯拉潘趣酒的 时候，这对夫妇会加入梅子口味的蒸馏酒。 这种口味酒让他们在瑞典烈酒市场取得了 一席之地。事实上，他们向来只会往自家 酿造的烈酒中加入从自家农场或附近群岛 上农场人工采收的水果和香草。现在他们 加入的酒类品种也更多样了，除了水果口 味的蒸馏酒，还有阿夸维特、伏特加、威 士忌、热姜酒和琴酒。Richard 说 :「我们 是家族企业，自产自销，我们只生产喜欢 的酒。」 Kristina 想透过最新出品的琴酒试验自 己的技巧，看看是否能酿出伦敦琴酒那样，

严格遵守欧盟定下，仅用水蒸馏、禁止事 后添加任何香料或色素的指引。Kristina 的 琴酒版本味道较淡，利用果香的特质让浓 郁的杜松子味发散出来。「那是花楸树莓 果。」这是她在当地找到的水果。「其实你 喝不出它的味道，但若不加它，你会马上 感觉出差别。它可作为柑橘、玫瑰花瓣和 药草的基底。」Richard 建议用马丁尼搭配 这款独特的琴酒，再加上一些当地特产。 他承认用瑞典著名的盐渍鲱鱼 sill 取代惯用 的橄榄这种不寻常的组合总让国内外顾客 大吃一惊，但他鼓励客人「人生苦短，何 不大胆尝试一次 ?」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

143

COCKTAILS

「调」出北欧新流派

MIXING NORDIC The indigenous ingredients of a very distinctive region inform a talented mixologist’s modern approach to cocktails.

In Helsinki, Mark Hammons interviews Timo Siitonen, the celebrity mixologist with a string of global awards and a bar with a legendary reputation. Describing himself as “Finnish in origin, international to the bone,” Siitonen talks about his career and the history of contemporary cocktail culture leading up to the opening of A21 Cocktail Lounge in 2007. A trainer, a consultant, a judge of world-class competitions, and the founder of multiple establishments, Siitonen expresses his own unique slant on Nordic mixology.

§ 在赫尔辛基，Mark Hammons 有幸访问到知名调酒师 Timo Siitonen。这位形容自 己「体内流着芬兰血却住着国际魂」的调酒师，曾获多项国际大奖，拥有一家传奇 酒吧。此外，Timo 还身兼国际级调酒比赛的教练、顾问及裁判，同时为多家企业创 办人，对北欧式调酒具有独到见解。这次，他与Mark分享了他的职涯经历，还透露

MH: Maybe just talk me through your evolution.

TS: I moved to London in ’99 to study and did some bar work, mainly bourbon and Cokes, vodka Red Bulls, vodka tonics. A place opened called Lab Bar and I worked there and then was hired as headwaiter for Atlantic Bar & Grill. After two weeks, the manager said we need a head bartender, and I ended up being head bartender.

144

|

TK | nordic od yssey

MH ：可以先请您谈谈您的经历吗？ TS ：19​​99 年， 我 到 伦 敦 求 学， 开始接触调酒，主要是波本可乐、红 牛伏特加以及伏特加汤尼一类。后来， 我到了一间新开的酒吧 Lab Bar 工作， 之 后 另 一 家 酒 吧 Atlantic Bar & Grill 雇我当服务生领班。两周后，经理说 需要一位酒保领班，我就变成酒保领 班了。

从此一头栽入调酒的世界？ 2002 年吧，我碰上了「天时、地 利、人和」。那时现代调酒文化刚兴起， Lab 和 Atlantic 都 走 在 风 潮 之 先。 现 代调酒基本上就是用水果泥和新鲜香 草，没有非要以经典酒为基础不可。 当时北欧国家里没有人这么做？ 没有什么特别的作法。

COURTESY OF A21 COCKTAIL LOUNGE (3)

了当代调酒文化演进如何促使他于2007年创立A21 Cocktail Lounge。

COCKTAILS

“ Our approach is ingredientdriven – you have fresh ingredients and you pick the alcohol to suit those flavors. 我们的方法是以材料为主，先选择 新鲜食材，再选择适合搭配的酒。“ TIMO SIITONEN

146

|

TK | NORDIC ODYSSEY

Isokari Sour

And this is in?

2002. I was at the right place at the right time, because it was the start of modern cocktail culture, and Lab and Atlantic were the forerunners. It basically means using fruit purées, fresh herbs, and everything is not classic-based, necessarily.

COURTESY OF A21 COCKTAIL LOUNGE (2)

Nobody in the Nordic countries was doing that?

Nothing special.

And you took this approach and nordicized it?

With classic style, alcohol is the starting point and then you add something to make it taste better. Our approach is ingredient-driven – you have fresh ingredients and you pick the alcohol to suit those flavors.

Can you talk about some key Nordic ingredients?

Let’s start with cloudberry – I think it’s

the jewel. We use it either puréed or as jam, and definitely with white spirits, generally classic dry gin – the juniper and the other botanicals tend to enhance its flavors – dark rum will hide it. It needs a touch of citrus, and spices work really well.

Lingonberries are very similar to cranberries, but they have more floral and more tartness. We work with vodka with lingonberry – a purée made in-house with added vanilla – an awesome complement – some sugar and vodka, that’s it. We’ve done tall coolers, but it’s at its best as a pure lingonberry martini. The third berry needs to be sea buckthorn.

I don’t know that much about it.

It only grows in coastal areas, and it needs to be handpicked. It’s definitely one of the superfoods – it has I don’t know how many kinds of flavonoids in one tiny fruit and it has a super-sour taste. It’s a bit tricky to mix – it needs sugar. It mixes really well with orange, and it works super nicely with Cognac.

您率先采用这种作法后把它北欧化？ 经典风格就好，用酒精作为基底，再加 点什么增添风味。我们的方法是以材料为主， 先选择新鲜食材，再选择适合搭配的酒。 可以请您介绍一些主要的北欧食材吗？ 我们可以从云莓讲起，我觉得云莓是珍 宝。我们会用云莓果泥或果酱，而且一定搭 配白色烈酒，通常是经典的干琴酒，因为杜 松子和其他植物成份很能够提升味道，若用 黑兰姆酒则会掩盖其风味。它需要一点柑橘， 香料的效果也非常好。越橘则和蔓越莓很像， 但前者比较有花香、也比较酸涩。我们用伏 特加搭配越橘，自制的越橘泥加上一点香草 可说是绝配，另外再加一些糖和伏特加，这 样就非常完美。我们也曾经尝试调成高杯酷 乐 (Cooler)，但发现还是纯越橘马丁尼最好。 第三种我一定要介绍的莓是沙棘。 我没听过这种莓。 沙棘只生长在滨海地区，必须用手采 摘。它的营养价值极高，小小一颗果实内 含非常多种类黄酮，而且味道极酸。用沙 棘来调酒不容易，需要加糖。沙棘和香橙 很搭，与干邑也是绝配。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

147

Angus Lewis Charles Winchester

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

潇洒「酒」一回

adding the panache

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Globetrotting Angus Winchester, a bartender’s bartender, demonstrates some of his classiest cocktails.

WITH HIS FIRST THREE INITIALS ALC, there was always some likelihood that Angus Lewis Charles Winchester might wind up working in the drinks industry. The dapper, Oxfordeducated Englishman has, in fact, spent three decades in the business, starting out as a teenage bartender before moving into management with his consultancy, Alconomics, and serving for years as the global ambassador for Tanqueray.

Winchester, a brilliant storyteller, delivers a constant stream of interesting history and engaging anecdotes. He’s in Hong Kong to host a very special pop-up at Quinary on Hollywood Road, giving a lucky few guests a flavor of his new bar, The Embassy. Set to open later in the year in one of New York’s hot destinations, Brooklyn’s Crown Heights, its mission is to celebrate some of the world’s great classic cocktails from down through the years.

How about a drink from Charles H. Baker, the legendary American travel writer, historian, and cocktail creator? Or fancy trying the Aviation, the Martinez, the Last Word, or maybe shots of real Peruvian pisco served with ceviche-juice chasers?

As Winchester explains, it’s not only about the drinks, it’s just as much about an evening’s entertainment: “We’re in the experience business. We tend the bar, we serve people, but being a people person is the most important part of this profession. Now we’re showing our love and passion for drinks all around the world, taking each place over with new uniforms, music, and décor. We’ll even create a reservations-only area called the ‘ambassador’s residence’ within the bar.

A great drink has the power to make you stand up straighter – it can truly have a transforming effect. We’re not curing cancer,

Russian Spring Punch nordic odyssey

|

TK |

149

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

Mr. Hoshi’s Dry Martini

but we want to make you feel important, understood!”

As the former Tanqueray global brand ambassador, he delights in explaining that Tanqueray Gordon & Co are a royal warrant holder supplying the British royal family and that Tanqueray No. TEN won a rare place of honor in the San Francisco World Spirits Competition Hall of Fame. TEN, he notes, was perfectly developed for a very modern, very dry martini, and Tanqueray London Dry Gin “does everything a gin should do, with only four botanicals: angelica root, coriander,

150

|

TK | nordic od yssey

licorice, and juniper. It’s the most sophisticated spirit, the hardest to distill.”

Winchester shows off both these Tanqueray gins in Mr. Hoshi’s Dry Martini, a drink he named after one of the five grandmasters of the Tokyo cocktail scene.

Recalling an ‘epiphany’ he experienced in Hoshi’s bar, called Little Smith, Winchester remembers witnessing for the first time ice balls being hand-carved for drinks and being amazed by the ritual and ceremony.

“The key to Japanese drink mixing is to make absolutely no sound at all while

doing it. We start with a shot of dry vermouth, really just rinsing the mixing glass and coating the ice before straining it. Then a decent measure of about fourfifths Tanqueray London Dry and one-fifth Tanqueray No. TEN. Stir it down a lot into the elegance of a simple chilled V-shaped glass, always leaving a neck at the top of the drink, then a single olive complete with a ‘ting’ from the metal cocktail stick touching the glass. Finally, a lemon twist, zested over it and then rubbed just where you’re about to drink it.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Russian Spring Punch, similar to a Tom Collins with cassis and Champagne, is the creation of the late Dick Bradsell, a storied British bartender.

Winchester mixes lemon juice, Ketel One Vodka, and simple syrup in classic proportions before adding the cassis and Champagne. “Ketel One has a long history and a lovely creamy sensation to it as defined by the four F’s: fragrance, flavor, feel, and finish.” The cocktail is garnished with blackberries and dehydrated lemon.

如同他名字前三字的缩写 ALC，似乎隐隐注

布鲁克林皇冠高地开幕，期待向近年来世界

定 了 Angus Lewis Charles Winchester 成 年

最经典的鸡尾酒致敬。

后会投身于酒品产业。这位穿着考究、牛津

让美国传奇旅行小说家、历史学家、鸡

学术背景出身的英国绅士，事实上进入这个

尾 酒 创 作 者 小 查 尔 斯 •H• 贝 克， 为 您 调 制

产业已有三十年，由担任调酒师开始，接 并为 Tanqueray 琴酒担任国际宣传大使多年。

饮 料 如 何？ 试 试 Aviation、Martinez、The Last Word ？或者来杯秘鲁皮斯科酒搭配酸 橘汁腌鱼酒后水？就像 Angus 说的，这不

Angus 是位能言善道的说书人，能滔滔

单纯只是调酒，它更是午夜时分的消遣。他

着在其顾问公司 Alconomics 负责管理职务，

不绝地说出一长串有趣的历史故事和趣闻轶

说： 「这是一个着重体验产业。我们经营酒吧、

事。他将在香港荷李活道的酒吧 Quinary 创

服务顾客，但成为行业专家的关键是了解他

办一个别出新裁的快闪酒吧，只有少部分幸

们。现在我们以崭新的制服、音乐和装潢来

运的客人能一尝他新酒吧的佳酿。酒吧取名

展现对全世界各种饮料的钟爱和热情，我们

The Embassy，将于不久后在纽约热门地标

甚至在酒吧里设立『大使住处」预约区。一 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

151

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

杯好的调酒如同醍醐灌顶，能确实地让客人 感觉到改变。我们不是在治疗癌症，而是要 让顾客感到受重视以及被理解。 身为前 Tanqueray 全球品牌大使，Angus 对于这款琴酒背后璀璨的历史如数家珍 ：它 是英国皇家官方指定酒，长期向英国皇室提 供酒品 ；它也在美国旧金山世界烈酒大赛中 获颁殊荣。Angus 解释，这款烈酒是为了现代 感十足、辛辣的马天尼而生，其中 Tanqueray 伦敦干琴酒仅以当归、香菜、甘草和杜松子 四种植物酿制，酒体最醇熟，蒸馏最费时。

Angus 的 Mr. Hoshi’s Dry Martini 调 酒， 是以五位东京鸡尾酒界传奇之一的调酒大师 而 命 名， 展 现 两 款 Tanqueray 琴 酒 的 韵 味。 他回想起在这位调酒大师的酒吧里的一次「领 悟」 。 当 时，Angus 因 一 款 名 为 Little Smith 的调酒，第一次亲眼目睹为调酒制作手工雕 刻冰球，深深被这样的仪式和过程震慑不已。 他解释 ： 「日本调酒的关键在于过程中完全不 发出声响。我们用一小杯苦艾酒轻轻冲过调 酒杯，舀冰块覆盖上去后过滤，接着倒入精 准测量的五分之四 Tanqueray 伦敦琴酒和五 分之一 Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒，充分搅拌后 倒入冰镇的高雅倒锥型酒杯，杯子不用全满， 放入一颗橄榄，以金属剑插放进杯中发出的 一声『叮』来完成调酒。作为最后点睛之笔， 客人在饮用时要用柠檬皮抹一下杯口。 」

Russian Spring Punch 和加入黑醋栗酒以 及香槟的 Tom Collins 味道很相似，是英国调 酒 巨 匠 Dick Bradsell 创 作 的 调 酒。Angus 以 经典比例混合柠檬汁、Ketel One 伏特加和糖 浆， 再 加 入 黑 醋 栗 酒 和 香 槟。 他 说 ： 「Ketel One 伏特加历史悠久，口感绵密讨喜，黑醋 栗和干柠檬皮点缀其中，当属四个 F －香气

(fragrance)、 味 道 (flavor)、 感 觉 (feel) 和 成 」 品 (finish) 的最佳诠释。 「结尾的调酒是来自纽约传奇 Angus 说 ： 酒吧 PDT 的 212。它以龙舌兰酒作基底，切 记必须是 Don Julio Blanco 的龙舌兰。这款调

212

酒的命名来源，除了是纽约的区域号码，也 因 为 它 的 组 成 比 例 是 2:1:2 － 两 份 Don Julio

152

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Don Julio Blanco has a really nice peppery quality with citrus notes, so it stands up but doesn’t dominate. It’s a simple drink – and on this occasion, the bartender brings the panache!”

人的胡椒味和柑橘香气，能凸显气味却不喧

The Embassy pop-up at Quinary in Hong Kong runs from May 15-17.

The Embassy 快闪酒吧将于 5 月 15-17 日在香 港荷李活道的酒吧 Quinary 内举行。

Blanco 龙舌兰、一份葡萄柚汁以及两份艾普 罗酒。Don Julio Blanco 龙舌兰散发出非常宜 宾夺主。在这样的场合，就让调酒师以这款 朴实的调酒带来一点潇洒。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“My final drink is very simple, a 212 from New York’s legendary PDT bar. Tequilabased, it has to be Don Julio Blanco. It takes its name from the New York area code and also from the fact that it contains two parts Don Julio Blanco, one part grapefruit juice, and two parts Aperol. It’s served in a rocks glass with a little twist of grapefruit. The

TALLINK FOCUS

nordic serenade The glistening blue of the Baltic and the best in shopping, entertainment, and dining make for a memorable cruise on Tallink Silja Line.

A RECENT VOYAGE on MS Silja Serenade , sister ship to Silja Symphony on Tallink Silja Line’s cruise route between Helsinki and Stockholm, reveals why the line has achieved the status of largest passenger carrier on the Baltic Sea. Its sixteen vessels offer everything from efficient ferry service to luxury seven-day sightseeing cruises between the major Baltic ports of Helsinki, Tallin, Riga, and Stockholm.

Every amenity on Silja Serenade has been thought out for maximum convenience, relaxation, and fun. Even before the ship is out of Helsinki’s harbor, passengers are swarming the decks to explore the attractions and activities. Kids find excitement at the new SiljaLand Playroom while adults seek serenity and renewal at the upgraded Sunflower Oasis Spa. The ship’s central glass-roofed Promenade is lined with dozens of eateries, bars, shops, and boutiques.

Silja Serenade is shopping heaven. As the largest tax-free shipboard retailer in the world, Tallink Silja offers leading fashion labels like Gucci, Kenzo, Versace, Prada, and Dior, and top electronics brands like Apple, Samsung, and Bose.

And what’s a cruise without food? The ship’s twelve restaurants and bars include the Grande Buffet, with international selections from Scandinavian to Asian; Tavolàta Ristorante Italiano, specializing in sharing plates and antipasti; and Happy Lobster, featuring the fresh catch of the day.

Bon Vivant, the ship’s fine-dining restaurant on Deck 7, offers seasonal and themed menus created by Finnish celebrity chef Matti Jämsén. The cuisine is modern Nordic, with imaginative selections like smoked shrimp with dill mousse and a crispy waffle, pan-fried breast of pigeon with caramelized apple and beetroot, and roasted pike-perch with spinach, cauliflower gratin, and fresh horseradish.

When evening arrives, Silja Serenade ’s entertainment ranges from dancing to DJs to musical shows – and, on deck, the possibility of a display above the Baltic of the breathtaking northern lights.

154

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG

北欧小夜曲

作为塔林客诗丽雅交响曲号的姊妹游轮，诗丽雅小夜曲号往返于赫 尔辛基和斯德哥尔摩之间，现已成功地成为了波罗的海上载客量最 多的交通工具。在最近的一次航程中，这艘大型游轮分享了航班成 功的原因。塔林客诗丽雅公司旗下拥有 16 艘船，种类从快捷渡轮到 豪华七日游大型观光游轮，往返停泊于赫尔辛基、塔林、里加和斯 德哥尔摩等波罗的海主要港口之间，为顾客提供多元选择。 诗丽雅小夜曲号的各项休闲设备，旨在为乘客提供最便利、放 松、具娱乐性的选择。在赫尔辛基港出航前，乘客就已可在甲板上 探索各式设备和活动。成人可在升级改造后的向日葵绿洲水疗中心 释放压力、沉淀心灵，儿童们则能在崭新的诗丽雅乐园尽情嬉戏。 游轮正中央的玻璃屋顶步行街更是汇聚了许多餐厅、酒吧和精品店。 诗丽雅小夜曲号是一座购物天堂。塔林客诗丽雅游轮集结众多 顶级时尚品牌进驻，包括 Gucci、Kenzo、Versace、Prada 和 Dior， 以及大型电子产品品牌，如 Apple、Samsung 和 Bose 等，是全球最 大的船舶免税零售店。

COURTESY OF TALLINK SIL JA LINE

说到游轮怎能少了美食佳肴？游轮上共有九家餐厅和酒吧 ：

Grande Buffet 提 供 从 斯 堪 的 纳 维 亚 到 亚 洲 等 国 际 美 食，Tavolàta 意式餐厅邀请游客与亲友共享意式料理和餐前小点，还有 Happy Lobster 主 打 当 日 现 捕 的 新 鲜 海 鲜。 七 号 甲 板 设 有 高 档 餐 厅 Bon Vivant 西餐厅与精品酒廊，由芬兰知名主厨 Matti Jämsén 主理当季 主题菜单。主厨的料理充满当代北欧风格，同时融合了主厨天马行 空的创意。餐厅招牌菜包括烟熏虾搭配莳萝慕丝佐香脆松饼、油煎 鸽胸佐焦糖苹果和甜菜根， 以及烤鲈梭佐波菜、 烤椰菜花和新鲜辣根。 当夜幕低垂，诗丽雅小夜曲号的娱乐活动紧接着热闹登场，从 舞蹈表演、DJ 秀到音乐剧。此外，站上甲板，还有机会遇见那道闪 耀在波罗的海上空的令人屏息的极光。 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

155

FINNAIR FOCUS

「芬」常道地

finnishing up The award-winning chef who introduced Nordic food to Hong Kong now takes it to the stratosphere.

FINNAIR, “the airline from the top of the world,” has been pleasing the food tastes of guests from all over the world for a long time. Founded in 1923, Finnair today connects seventeen Asian cities with over seventy European destinations and transports more than nine million passengers each year.

That’s a lot of meals, and Finland’s flag carrier has always taken seriously the privilege of providing flyers with premium international menus. In 2013, Finnair felt the time was right to start waving the flag by introducing the distinctive food of its homeland to travelers. Its Signature Menus program partners with the country’s growing ranks of star chefs to offer authentic Nordic cuisine on its long-haul flights from Helsinki.

Now passengers departing Asia are getting in on the action. Flights from Hong Kong to Helsinki offer business-class selections created by Jaakko Sorsa, the talented Finnish chef who came to Hong Kong in 2004 with the wild idea of opening FINDS,

Chef Jaakko Sorsa

156

|

TK | nordic od yssey

the city’s first Nordic restaurant, and has since won acclaim from every direction for his authentic and inventive cuisine. “A chef can do many things,” says Sorsa, “but there are certain things that feel especially good – when you do it for such a well-known company, when you do it for Finland.”

DAVID HARTUNG (PORTRAIT ), COURTESY OF FINNAIR

Sorsa’s self-expression gets free rein as he periodically updates his Finnair menus. Of an earlier version, he says, “I had my grandmother Ida’s meatballs on FINDS ’ menu and Finnair really wanted it.”

His current offerings are a starter of fennel-seasoned cold smoked salmon, a main of slow-roasted pork belly with artichoke potato mash and sautéed savoy cabbage, and, for the vegetarian-inclined, parsnip soup with crispy onion.

“Once you tackle the challenge,” he remarks about his first assignment to create original menus for a prestige airline, “you feel quite happy.”

芬兰航空，被誉为「来自世界之巅」的航线，

2004 年移居香港，异想天开地创立香港第

成立于 1923 年，多年来致力于以佳酿美馔

一家北欧餐厅 FINDS。自此，他兼具传统与

满足全球旅客的味蕾。如今，这家航线横跨

17 座亚洲城市与 70 多座欧洲城市，每年载 客数高达九百万人。对于这家国家航空公司 而言，为乘客提供顶级寰宇餐饮绝对是轻忽 不得的头等大事。

2013 年，芬兰航空眼见时机成熟，决

创新的芬兰料理获得如潮佳评。Jaakko 说 ： 「厨师能做的事很多，但能为国家航空、为 国家出力，感觉格外不同。 」

Jaakko 定期更新机上餐点，尽展不受 抱束的个人风格。在上次推出的飞机餐中有 「这道是我祖母 Ida 的肉丸。 道肉丸，他说明：

定将芬兰独特料理推广予机上旅客。他们与

我将它放进 FINDS 的菜单中，芬兰航空非常

国内赫赫有名的星级主厨合作推出「招牌菜

喜欢这道菜。 」目前最新推出的飞机餐，前

单」 ，在从赫尔辛基起飞的长程班机上，提

菜是茴香冻烟熏三文鱼，主餐为慢烤猪腩肉

供最道地正宗的北欧佳肴。

配朝鲜蓟薯蓉及炒椰菜，选用素食的旅客可

现在，就连从亚洲起飞的乘客也有口

享用欧洲白胡萝卜汤搭配脆洋葱。Jaakko 首

福了。乘坐香港飞往赫尔辛基商务舱的旅客，

度接下为声誉卓著的国家航空公司设计原创

可享受由才华洋溢的芬兰主厨 Jaakko Sorsa

菜单的任务，他说 ： 「任务很艰巨，但克服

打 造 的 一 系 列 精 致 餐 饮。Jaakko Sorsa 于

挑战后，我感到无比开心。 」 nordic odyssey

|

TK |

157

RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Italian 1031, 1/F, Galaxy Macau, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城一 楼，1031 q +853 8886 2169 Lunch: Fri-Sun: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: Thu-Tue: 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual (Ladies are required not to wear slippers, cap or hat. Gentlemen are required not to wear slippers or open shoes (sandals), cap or hat, shorts or sleeveless shirts.)

8-year-olds and above are welcome 5

A21 Cocktail Bar Annankatu 21, 00100 Helsinki, Finland q +358 40 0211921 Tue-Wed: 17:00-00:00 Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri-Sat: 17:00-02:00 5

Hullu Poro Resort Rakkavaarantie 5, 99130, Levi, Finland q +016 6510 100

TAK

Italian Level 10, Altira, Macau Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路新濠锋10楼 q +853 2886 8868 Lunch: 12:00-14:00; Dinner: 18:00-22:30; Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:30 (Closed on Sunday nights and Mondays) A Smart Casual

q +358 10 570 100

q +358 9 180 41

BRO

Olo

Terrazza Italian Restaurant 庭园意大利餐厅

International Hilton Helsinki Strand, John Stenbergin Ranta 4, Helsinki, 00530, Finland q +358 9 39351 Daily: 06:30-10:00; 11:00-23:00

5

FINDS

(Closed on Sundays; open Mondays for

5

5

Nordic 1/F The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberly Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀金巴利道39号帝乐文公馆1楼 q +852 2522 9318 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Afternoon Tea: Mon-Fri: 15:00-17:30; SatSun: 15:30-17:30 Happy Hour: 17:00-21:00 Dinner: Sun-Thu: 19:00-22:30; Fri-Sat: 19:0023:00

HKScan Corporation PO Box 50 (Lemminkäisenkatu 48), FI-20521 Turku, Finland

Pohjoisesplanadi 5, 00170 Helsinki, Finland q +358 10 320 6250

Tue-Fri: 11:30-15:00; 18:00-24:00 Sat: 18:00-24:00 private parties)

5

Gaggenau Kitchen Appliances Hong Kong 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港仔黄竹坑香叶道2号One Island South 19 楼 q +852 2890 1522 5

158

|

TK | nordic od yssey

Modern Nordic

Quinary 5

Bar 56-58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环荷李活道56-58号地下 q +852 2851 3223

Mon-Sat: 17:00-01:00 (Closed on Mondays)

SverigeShoppen Unit 1825A, 18/F, Star House, No.3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道3号星光行18楼 1825A室 q +852 2312 1919

Mon–Sat: 12:00-19:00

Nordic-Japanese Brunkebergstorg 4, SE 111 51 Stockholm, Sweden q +46 8 587 220 80 Mon-Sat: 17:00-22:30

5

Tallink Silja Line Tyynenmerenkatu 9, 00220 Helsinki, Finland

Italian 201, 2/F, Galaxy Macau, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城2 楼，201 q +853 8883 2221 Daily: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual (Gentlemen are required not to wear flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts.)

5

The Apron 蚝吧扒房 International G108, G/F, Galaxy Macau, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城地 下，G108 q +853 8883 2221 Daily: 12:00-23:00 5

The Eight 8餐厅 Chinese 2/F, Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau 澳门葡京路新葡京酒店二楼 q +853 8803 7788 Lunch: Mon-Sat: 11:30-14:30; Sun & Public Holidays: 10:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 5

DAVID HARTUNG

Aurora 奥罗拉

DESSERT

Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa of FINDS features ingredients personally brought back from Finland in the pre-dessert Lapland course of his Nordic Odyssey tasting menu. Lappish cheese called leipäjuusto is sweetened by a touch of cloudberries, and a dollop of vanilla pudding is enhanced with smoky tar syrup and topped with a morsel of fresh lichen. 为了展现原汁原味的北欧风，FINDS 行政总厨 Jaakko Sorsa 选用他亲自从芬兰带回来的食材， 食面包奶酪 (leipäjuusto)，甜品佐以云梅酱带来的一丝甜味，与之搭配的香草布丁则以烟熏焦 油糖浆来提升味道层次，最后再以少许新鲜地衣作点缀。

160

|

TK | nordic od yssey

DAVID HARTUNG

制作餐厅「Nordic Odyssey」菜单上的「Lapland」系列开胃甜品。这道甜品就是拉普兰经典美

Dining on Top of Tower 535 Overlooking at the Victoria Harbour LUNCH

BRUNCH

DINNER

SANTÉ APERITIF

LOCATED AT THE TOP OF

LUNCH BRUNCH DINNER TOWER 535 - 26/F NO. 535 JAFFE ROAD CAUSEWAY BAY SANTÉ APERITIF DRINKS +852 3708 9668 RESERVATION@SEAFOODROOM.HK

HONG KONG

DRINKS

F O O D

I S

F O O D

I S

A R T .

A R T.

E L E V A T E P R E S E R V E

I T .

I T.

In craftsmanship and technology Wolf stands alone.

Its professional performance helps you make the most of every meal.

1-3/f, House of Madison 8 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai Hong Kong. T +852 2239 5000

subzerowolf.com.hk