TK30 Best of TK

HKD60 | MOP60 | RMB60 | NTD240 | SGD10 | USD8 | £6

T A S T I N G 30

K I T C H E N

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

STARTER

Chef Bill Hu presents Lai Heen’s upscale variation on the ubiquitous dim sum staple, bean curd sheet rolls. He stuffs them with a mixture of hand-diced premium grade 1++ Korean beef and finely diced water chestnuts. The rolls are served in broth of chicken stock infused with a time-honored Chinese delicacy, ten-year-aged tangerine peels.

DAVID HARTUNG

丽轩总厨傅文彪的陈皮汤浸韩牛腐皮卷巧妙体现了传统点心的精致重造。他混合手切的特级韩牛和荸荠作为 腐皮卷的内饀，再放入加了十年份陈皮熬制的醇厚鸡汤中，令腐皮卷能充分吸收以时间酝酿的浓浓中国味。

2

|

TK | the first five years

T A S T I N G 30

K I T C H E N

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Chris Dwyer

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Debbie Yong

MANAGING EDITOR

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Inara Sim

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Lucy Morgan

IMAGE EDITOR

Kristen Gallagher

TRANSLATION SERVICES

EDITORS

Jane Wong

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Babel Communications

Victoria Lei Zita Wan

ACCOUNTANT

ASSISTANT EDITORS

Carly Fong Ella Sio EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Terrie Lam ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

Annie Wang BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

PRINTING

MANAGER

Asia One Printing

Heibe Chan ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

John Sek

DISTRIBUTION

DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE

One Logistics

From chef Julien Tongourian of Robuchon au Dôme comes Le Caviar, an elegantly displayed and luxurious Joël Robuchon signature combining caviar, king crab, and crustacean jelly.

The succulent crabmeat is accented with a light cauliflower cream, and the lavish serving of caviar is of the Impérial French variety. 明星大厨Joël Robuchon的经典菜式Le Caviar在澳门新葡京天 巢法国餐厅主厨Julien Tongourian 的妙手下重现：多汁的蟹 肉以绵密的花椰菜奶油点缀，再包覆一圈龙虾冻，铺满在顶 上的法国皇家鱼子酱则为这道优雅的料理增添奢华感。

Photography by David Hartung

4

|

TK | the first five years

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2017 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to TK30, a special collector’s edition named The First Five Years.

In this issue, we share the story of TK’s launch and growth by republishing some of our most memorable features from along the way that help to trace the path of the magazine’s evolution.

If a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, TK’s journey of three thousand pages started with a single message. We open the issue with my email of April 2012 announcing to the editorial team that we’d be launching a new magazine called Tasting Kitchen – in two weeks’ time.

Each of the issue’s five sections is prefaced by an essay that elucidates an important aspect of the magazine’s development during that year: Creation, Evolution, Exploration, Expression, Expansion.

In Creation, we share the launch email, a photo essay named “Ingredients,” and the documentary feature “Joy of Pastry,” each one containing strands of the magazine’s DNA that are still alive and well today.

The second year, Evolution, follows our surprising transition from digital to print and includes “Treasures of the Sea” and “Spice World,” two of the seven TK features that have been recognized

by SOPA, the organization that awards Asia’s top publishing prize.

Exploration, the theme of the third year, chronicles the magazine’s growth in size, reach, and editorial scope as it began publishing more culinary-destination issues that tell the story of an entire country or region. With “More Than Just a Pretty Face,” we offer a visual feast in the form of a photo feature on edible flowers.

In year four, artistic Expression is at the heart of our quest to create a publication that’s not only informative, but also aesthetically satisfying. We share “Singing and Digesting” and “Peacocks and Performance Art” as examples of how TK is oftentimes a magazine as much for art lovers as it is for epicures.

Expansion, the final theme, makes it clear that for TK, independence and the process of discovery and creation are more important than growth for growth’s sake. Our values shine through in the last piece we share, “An Island Like No Other,” about an otherworldly Fijian island called Laucala.

I’ll let the issue itself tell the rest.

Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

6

|

TK | the first five years

CONTENTS

2 STARTER YEAR 1

YEAR 2

YEAR 3

YEAR 4

12

36

70

90

110

Ingredients

Treasures of the Sea

More Than a Pretty Face

Singing & Digesting

An Island Like No Other

24

50

Joy of Pastry

Spice World

98

YEAR 5

Peacocks and Performance Art

YEAR

①

12

24

YEAR

② 36

50

YEAR

③

70

YEAR

④ 90

98

YEAR

⑤ 110

8

|

TK | the first five years

CONTENTS

130 Restaurant Riches • 164 Portfolio 0f Distinction • 172 A Galaxy of Delights 176 From Master to Disciple • 188 Conscientiously Authentic 190 Shakedown Shake-Up • 196 La Bella Vita 200 L I S T I N G S • 204 L A S T C A L L

14

164 16

174

172

188

176

46

70

130

190 the first five years

196 |

TK |

9

① ② ③ ④ ⑤

year

①

CREATION From: Mark Hammons Subject: Tasting Kitchen Date: Sat, Apr 14, 2012 at 12:29pm­ To: Alicia Beebe, David Hartung, Jeff Hammons Hi Alicia and David and Jeff, I have a new project that I will be leading and that I’d like to work with all of you quite intensively on over the next two weeks.

We are going to launch a print version of Tasting Kitchen , which will be jointly published by Macau.com and DM and distributed bi-monthly across Macau and later in Hong Kong and Guangdong. Please keep all project details completely confidential before the launch.

For the first issue, we will focus mostly on leveraging our existing content so that we can meet the tight publishing deadline – we need to have everything at the printer by Friday, April 27.

I’ll send more details soon and can talk to you individually this weekend or on Monday, but I wanted to give all of you some advance notice so you can clear your schedules. If you have other projects that are ongoing, let me know what they are as we may need to shift priorities.

The format will be a small newspaper size, so that when it is folded in half it will fit inside a copy of DM for distribution – so perhaps 14 inches tall (7 when folded) and 10 inches wide (before opening). I’ll send through the exact specs to you on Monday. This larger format will allow us to fully showcase our rich visual assets (also known as: David’s photos).

This should really be a fun publication to put together. I’d like to make it extremely visual, with lots of fullbleed spreads and photo essays with captions. We have some of the best F+B content in the region, and now that we have complete control over the design and creative direction, I think that it is really going to shine. Feel free to send through your ideas, and I’ll talk to everyone soon,

Mark

the first five years

|

TK |

11

Ingredients Great food starts with great ingredients

color pigments

Emerald green. Cobalt blue. Sunflower yellow. Carmine red.

Chocolates at Wynn Macau are painted using a palette of pure, bright colors. When finished, they look almost too beautiful to eat. 如翡翠般绿，如钴矿般蓝，艳黄如向日葵，鲜红如胭脂，永利澳门 以五彩缤纷的调色盘为巧克力上色，成品美得让人舍不得吃。

Editor’s note: The chefs mentioned in this article have all moved on to other positions: Elie Khalife, Hotel Executive Chef, The 13; Dirk Haltenhof, Resort Executive Chef, Madinat Jumeirah; Hervé Lemonon, Executive Pastry Chef Consultant, GKPP; Francky Semblat, Executive Chef, L’ Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Shanghai.

12

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

13

spanish gambas

14

|

TK | the first five years

Gambas are prawns famous for their size and robust flavor, which is said to vary depending on where along the Spanish coast they are caught.

Chef Elie says his gambas come from the waters off a small island in the Mediterranean Sea. Which island exactly? Elie responds with a coy smile – it’s a chef’s secret.

Gambas 是一种西班牙虾，向来以体 积庞大和口感扎实闻名，据说跟在哪 个西班牙海岸捕到的有关。大厨 Elie Khalife 说他的 gambas 来自地中海 一小岛的海域，至于是哪个小岛？ Khalife 腼腆地笑了一笑 —— 秘密。

HEAD CHEF ELIE KHALIFE AUX BEAUX ARTS, MGM MACAU

the first five years

|

TK |

15

microgreens EXECUTIVE CHEF DIRK HALTENHOF VIDA RICA, MANDARIN ORIENTAL MACAU

Microgreens are intensely flavorful seedlings, plucked while still tiny and delicate. Along with the tatsoi, affila cress, red shiso and other microgreens he uses to perfect his salmon with beetroot vinaigrette, Chef Dirk adds a few small, edible chrysanthemums.

“This is something anyone can do at home,” he says. “It’s simplicity at its best.” 蔬菜苗是萌芽不久、还细小娇嫩时就采摘下来的幼苗，风味别具。 大厨 Dirk Haltenhof 使用白菜心、豆苗、紫苏及其他种类蔬菜苗佐 红菜头醋油，来呼应鲑鱼的完美无瑕，还加上一点可食用的小菊花。 他说：“ 这些点缀任何人都可在家中做到，是简单煮食的最佳表现。“

the first five years

|

TK |

17

spherified raspberry nectar (and edible gold leaf)

EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF FRÉDÉRIC CHÂTEAU GALAXY MACAU

18

|

TK | the first five years

They look like red currants but they’re not. These tiny globes of raspberry nectar were created using a 21st century culinary technique called spherification. Bite one: the delicate skin pops and a little flood of raspberry goodness bursts into your mouth. Chef Frédéric uses spherified raspberry nectar to accent his scrumptious pastries. Sometimes for good measure he’ll add a morsel of edible gold leaf. “You’ve got to have some fun in life,” he says. 别把它们误认成红醋栗。这些包有覆盆子茶的小圆球是利用 21 世纪最新烹调技术 —— 晶球化 制成的。咬一口，晶球表面破裂，里头覆盆子美味流泻入口中。主厨 Frédéric Château 使用覆 盆子茶晶球来点缀可口的糕点，有时候还别出心裁地加上一小片金箔 ：” 生活总要有点趣味。”

the first five years

|

TK |

19

fleur de sel

These little salt flowers – fleur

de sel – are hand raked from the salt pans of Camargue, France.

“I use them to temper the sweetness,” says Chef Hervé, sprinkling just a few flakes onto the creamy chocolate ganache of his famous macarons. 这些细小的盐花 fleur de sel 是从法国卡马格盐田采集而来。 饼房总厨 Hervé Lemonon 一面 说 ” 我用它们来舒缓甜味。” ， 一面在他赫赫有名的马卡龙巧克 力甘纳许上，撒上些许盐花。

EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF HERVÉ LEMONON GRAND LAPA MACAU

the first five years

|

TK |

21

black périgord truffles The French novelist Alexandre Dumas once set himself the task of imagining what truffles must think of themselves. His confident conclusion: “Eat us, and praise the Lord!” Hunted by hogs and dogs, dug up from the earth, these pungent tubers inspire passion like few other ingredients. Chef Semblat uses thin slices of black Périgord truffles, brushed with goose fat, to make Robuchon’s famously delicious truffle, onion and bacon tarts. 法国小说家大仲马曾试图想像松露是如何看待自己的，他最后肯定地下 了结论 ：“ 享用我们，然后，赞美主！ ” 松露生长在地底下，可以靠猪 或狗灵敏的嗅觉挖掘出来，其辛辣风味激发出源源不绝的料理灵感。大 厨 Francky Semblat 使用切成薄片的佩里哥黑松露，涂上一层鹅油，制 作天巢法国餐厅最著名的美味松露洋葱培根塔。

EXECUTIVE CHEF FRANCKY SEMBLAT ROBUCHON AU DÔME, GRAND LISBOA

22

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

The pastry you love the most will be made by the people who most love to make it PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

24

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

Editor’s note: Chef Hervé Lemonon’s current position is Executive Pastry Chef Consultant, GKPP.

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

25

ERVÉ LEMONON, Executive Pastry Chef at Grand Lapa Macau, gleefully sinks his hands into a stainless steel bowl full of almond flour and sugar, clenches two fistfuls of powder, pops his hands open and begins mixing things up by wiggling his fingers. He looks like he’s having the time of his life.

“I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me,” he says.

Chef Hervé radiates joy. His staff love him. Every morning there is a scuffle as various chefs on his team vie with each other to see who will get to help him prepare the buffet.

“He isn’t just a chef,” says Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad. “He is also like a father.”

“I’ve been here for twelve years. I came here as an apprentice,” says Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man. “We have great teamwork. It’s like a family.”

An atmosphere of calm concentration prevails in the kitchen, until somebody cracks a joke. Then all the chefs erupt into a raucous round of banter. There is a lot of teasing, and laughing, and then things quiet down again as everybody focuses on the work.

Hervé fills a piping bag with a mixture of whipped cream, lemon zest, butter and melted chocolate. Turning away from the petits fours he is decorating, he checks the glaze on a beautiful mango caramel cake a junior chef has finished.

26

|

TK | the first five years

Chatting, laughing, animated, he swings around to another chef, who is dexterously spreading apricot jam on layers of puff pastry. Hervé calls out: “Ah Lei is the fastest Napoleon maker in Macau!” And then with magic speed and precision his own hands go to work, squeezing, piping out gloriously perfect dollops of mousse to top each tiny chocolate tart.

Junior Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng is also piping, drawing lovely Chinese characters onto chocolate plaques. Other chefs are busy preparing raspberry and cherry mousse cakes, truffles, egg tarts and Black Forest gateaux, each working steadily at his or her station, occasionally passing each other instruments.

Every now and then, chefs slip in and out through the sliced plastic curtains that protect a treasure vault of a cold storage room. Trolleys there are laden with cakes waiting to be released to customers upstairs. “It’s a great feeling when the cake you just made is sold or eaten straight away,” says Hervé.

The joy and pride the chefs take in their work is contagious. Waiters coming from upstairs to collect bread, kitchen porters carrying buckets – everybody lights up as they come into Hervé’s pastry kitchen.

There is a moment when the whole kitchen goes quiet.

Everyone in the room is melting something: Hervé is melting caramel, Roberto a redcurrant glaze, Kelly chocolate, and Ah Lei a saucepan of apricot jam. The kitchen is silent apart from a very quiet bubbling.

“ I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me. 每天醒来，周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。” 澳门金丽华酒店行政饼房总厨 Hervé Lemonon 开心地将双 手插到盛满杏仁粉和糖的钢碗里，再一下子张开抓满了粉 的双手，开始揉面。一副乐在其中的样子。 他说： 「每天醒来，周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。」 总厨 Hervé 整个人散发着喜悦。他的工作人员都很喜欢他。 每天早上他组里不同的厨师都争先恐后想与他一起准备当 日的自助午餐。初级主厨 Roberto Macalalad 表示， 「他不 只是厨师，也像父亲。」 助理饼房厨师梁健文表示 ： 「 我在这里已经十二年了。 一开始是当学徒。我们的团队合作气氛很好，像个大家庭。」 厨房里通常是大家安静地聚精会神，直到有人说了个 笑话。接着，所有厨师们会突然喧笑戏谑成一团。有很多 的相互打趣和大笑。然后，随着大家又开始专注工作，一 切又回归寂静。 Hervé 将混入了柠檬皮、牛油和巧克力酱的鲜奶油装 进奶油袋，装饰好花式小蛋糕后，转身检查一位新手厨师 刚做好的芒果焦糖蛋糕上的糖衣，然后又兴高采烈地转身 对正灵巧地将杏桃果酱铺在层层酥皮上的另一位厨师喊

道，「阿李是全澳门做法式千层酥最快的人！」然后，双手 又以神奇的速度和精确度开始工作，在每个小巧克力挞上 挤出完美的一圈慕斯。 初级助理主厨吴紫君 (Kelly) 也正用奶油袋在巧克力片 上画出美丽的中文字。其他厨师则忙着准备覆盆子和樱桃 慕斯蛋糕、蛋挞和黑森林蛋糕。每个人都在自己的工作台 上稳健作业，偶尔帮忙把用具递给别人。 厨师们偶尔会进出像是有塑料门帘保护宝库般的冷藏 储存室。里面的推车上放满了等着拿到楼上给宾客的蛋糕。 Hervé 表示 ： 「刚做好的蛋糕一下子就卖完或被客人吃光， 感觉很棒！」 厨师们对所做成品的喜悦感和骄傲感极具渲染力。从 下楼拿面包的服务生到拿水桶进来的厨房搬运工，每个人 一进到 Hervé 的糕点厨房都是笑容满面。 有 时 整 个 厨 房 会 突 然 安 静。 每 个 人 都 在 融 东 西 ： Hervé 在融焦糖，Roberto 在融红醋栗糖衣，Kelly 在融巧 克力，阿李在融一锅杏桃果酱。除了小声的冒泡声之外， 整个厨房鸦雀无声。

30

|

TK | the first five years

From the left: Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad, Executive Pastry Chef HervĂŠ Lemonon, First Cook Lei Tak Meng, Jr. Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng, Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man, Senior Chef de Partie Choi Kung Va, First Cook Kenny Ho, First Cook Anny Hoi

32

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

由左边开始：初级主厨Roberto Macalalad，行政饼房总厨林学晖(Hervé Lemonon),一级厨师李德明, 初级助理主厨吴紫君, 助理饼房厨师梁健文,高级主厨崔冠华, 一级厨师何文伟, 一级厨师许玉园

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

33

① ②

② YEAR

③ ④ ⑤

year

②

EVOLUTION TASTING KITCHEN didn’t start out as a magazine – it began in the fall of 2011 as a weekly dining

column published by a local Macau website and newspaper and created by a team of two writers, an editor, a chef, and a photographer.

The digital revolution had not yet arrived, and while the column enjoyed a certain popular acclaim, after more than six months of operation, the business had yet to bring in a single dollar of revenue.

In a last-ditch effort to save the brand and the team, an idea was hatched to take some of the existing digital content and publish it as a dining supplement. The first issue was forty pages long and had ten pages of advertising – Tasting Kitchen had found a new lease on life.

During its first year, TK explored topics such as iconic ingredients, creative seafood, white truffles, organic farms, and Cantonese chefs. The magazine gained an early reputation for its captivating photo essays, but also for its thoughtful journalism.

The Joy of Pastry issue delved into the human side of the pastry kitchen, capturing the hard work, camaraderie, and laughter that bonds a team of chefs who arrive in the kitchen every morning at six, sifting flour and kneading dough together as days turn into months and months into years.

In its second year, TK ’s issues celebrated the world of butchers and meat, examined the phenomenon of “global chefs” and their myriad influences, traveled across China to the source of five iconic Chinese dishes, and showcased a series of menus inspired by history’s great art.

During that season, a PR friend suggested that the magazine enter the region’s leading journalism competition sponsored by the Society of Publishers in Asia, or SOPA. TK ‘s features “Spice World,” shot at the world’s largest spice market in Old Delhi, and “Treasures of the Sea,” which showcased spare portraits of delicacies such as goose barnacles and obsiblue shrimp, both won top honors.

the first five years

|

TK |

35

海中珍宝

Treasures of the Sea Six delicious underwater wonders, imported to Hong Kong from around the world by Classic Fine Foods PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

the first five years

|

TK |

37

38

|

TK | the first five years

靜待伯樂

S low Burner Goose Barnacles 鹅颈藤壶

THE GOOSE BARNACLE, with its distinctive rings of black

鹅颈藤壶坚硬、类似骨头的壳上绕着多个

around a hard, bone-like shell, has been described as looking

黑色环圈，甚至有人以恐龙脚来形容其独

like a dinosaur’s claw. Found stubbornly attached to rocks and

特造型。鹅颈藤壶栖息于巴塞隆纳沿岸海

flotsam off the coast of Barcelona, they must be collected by

域，顽强吸附在岩石或船只残骸上，因此

hand, sometimes at great hazard in the crashing surf. Even

仅能以人力采集，碰到海浪来势凶猛时，

after being rinsed, scrubbed, packed in ice, and then shipped

作业环境也变得相当险峻。经过冲洗、刷揉、

by air, many arrive at kitchens still clinging to the rocks on

冰库装箱，即便最后空运到餐厅，许多鹅

which they were found.

颈藤壶仍紧紧依附于石头上。

Goose barnacles have been enjoyed in Spain and

西班牙人及葡萄牙人食用鹅颈藤壶已

Portugal for centuries, where they are boiled in salt water and

有数百年历史，通常是以盐水汆烫后作为小

eaten as tapas, with the tubular skin peeled back to reveal

菜享用。去掉管状外皮，就能看到弹牙且口

the springy, stretchy pink neck meat. The harder outside

感扎实的粉色颈肉，拿着坚硬的外壳可将颈

shell is left on as a useful handle for dipping in aioli, a type of

肉佐以普罗旺斯蒜味酱汁「aioli」食用。

garlicky Provençal sauce.

鹅颈藤壶虽然在西班牙很受欢迎，但

While the Spanish might know when they are on to

在其他国家的回响却是相当两极。虽然一

a good thing, international acceptance has been mixed.

度被捧为高级餐饮界的新星，但似乎仍走

Once touted as the next big thing in upscale dining, goose

不出伊比利半岛。但近几年在高级食材批

barnacles have never really caught on outside of Iberia. In

发商的推波助澜下，似乎出现了转机，不

recent years fine food wholesalers have reported an uptick in

少时尚亚洲餐厅对鹅颈藤壶的兴趣渐浓，

interest from some tonier Asian restaurants, but demand for

不过真正下手的仍是少之又少。但这样也

this underrated morsel is still criminally modest. No matter:

好 ：意味着我们有更多机会品尝这备受低

that leaves more for the rest of us.

估的美味食材。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

39

陽光饗宴

A � lace in the Sun Tarbouriech Oysters 生蚝

40

|

IT IS TEMPTING to dismiss the distinctive pinkish hue of the

Tarbouriech 生 蚝 的 粉 色 蚝 壳 独 树 一 格，

Tarbouriech oyster shell as nothing more than a marketing

犹如美人脸颊的一抹红晕，但拿来当作行

gimmick, a swipe of blush on a beauty queen. After all, what

销的亮点似乎仍有点勉强。毕竟单凭外

can the merest tint of pink really reveal about the flesh within?

壳的颜色难以保证蚝肉也同样粉嫩诱人，

As it happens, quite a lot.

不过打开之后却是里外如一，令人惊艳。

Tarbouriech oysters hail from Bassin de Thau, a tideless

Tarbouriech 生蚝产自法国南部大城

lagoon near Marseille in the South of France. Many other oyster

马赛附近一处水波不兴的拓湖「Bassin

farmers have their bases in these waters, but a unique farming

de Thau」。在此也有许多其他种类的生

technique makes the Tarbouriech special. At intermittent

蚝养殖场，但 Tarbouriech 生蚝却有一点

periods throughout the day, a solar-operated mechanism lifts

与众不同 ：一天当中固定时期，太阳能

the oyster frames out of the water, exposing each precious

启动的机器会将养殖架自水中升起，让

oyster to the sunshine in an attempt to recreate a natural tidal

每颗生蚝都能晒到太阳，模拟自然的潮

environment.

汐环境。

Exposure to light and oxygen forces oysters to produce

吸收阳光及氧气让生蚝产生肝

glycogen, which in turn causes the muscle to become denser

糖， 使 肉 质 结 实， 坚 果 味 更 为 浓 郁。

and “nuttier” in taste. Chefs praise the Tarbouriech for its almost

Tarbouriech 生蚝近乎弹牙的口感备受大

chewy texture. The sunshine is also responsible for adding the

厨的好评，蚝壳上的招牌玫瑰色泽也是

trademark rosy hue to each shell.

受阳光恩赐。

The benefit of this farming system is twofold: not only

此种特殊养殖技术有两种好处，一

is the taste improved, but it also breeds into the oysters a

则让美味升级，同时也加强生蚝适应环

hardiness and adaptability to environmental changes, allowing

境改变的能耐，运输途中的存活率比起

them to survive much longer in transit than ordinary oysters. A

一般生蚝高出许多。时值全球五大洲对

definite plus, considering the distances each oyster must travel

于生蚝需求遽增，能长途旅行无虞的生

to fulfill burgeoning demand in all four corners of the globe.

蚝确实是一大优势。

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

42

|

TK | the first five years

深海之后

Deep Sea Diva Obsiblue Prawns 蓝虾

P R E C I O U S , C O S S E T E D A N D P E R F E C T LY F O R M E D , it is no

珍贵异常、备受青睐，各方各面均无懈可

wonder Obsiblue prawns are often referred to as the “Rolls

击，无怪乎 Obsiblue 蓝虾享有虾中「劳斯

Royce” of their species. A pretty, almost translucent blue,

莱斯」的美名。蓝虾带着近乎透明的青蓝

with a dark tail, long delicate tentacles and superb pearl grey

色泽、虾尾颜色转暗、一对虾须细致又长，

flesh, in no more than ten years they have risen from Coral

加上蕴含珍珠光泽的灰色虾肉，使其不到

Sea obscurity to become a versatile fine-dining staple. What

十年的时间便从澳洲珊瑚海默默无闻的食

triggered this ascent to superstardom?

Perhaps the explanation is that Obsiblue prawns are

材跃升为顶级餐厅的新宠。 Obsiblue 蓝虾 有何魅力短时间窜红晋升为明星食材呢？

special from the start. Farmed in low-density cages located

细列原因，第一点可能是 Obsiblue 蓝

in a pristine natural lagoon off the coast of New Caledonia

虾原本就独树一格，养殖于东澳新克里多

in Eastern Australia, the spacious living arrangements

尼亚沿岸水质纯净的泻湖，每笼仅放入少

and crystal clear waters ensure that each prawn grows

量蓝虾，让每只虾能在宽阔的环境及清澈

unstressed to full size. Growth hormones, antibiotics and

的水质中毫无压力的养殖至成年体型。生

artificial substances of any kind are banned from their

长激素、抗生素及任何人造补给物均严格

environment. As with any blossoming diva, it simply wouldn’t

禁止。蓝虾也如培养绝代女伶般，非一朝

do to rush an Obsiblue along: they are given nine leisurely

一夕可成 ：比起一般餐厅用虾子三个月的

months to reach maturity, as opposed to three for a standard

成长期，蓝虾可是有悠悠漫长九月龄的生

restaurant prawn.

长期。

To obtain Obsiblue classification, each prawn must be

每只蓝虾都需个别检查、全虾运送、

caught, individually examined, and transported as a flawless

务求完美，才够格成为 Obsiblue 的一员。

whole. The merest imperfection has them ruthlessly culled

若有一丝瑕疵便只能接受无情淘汰的命运。

from the lot.

出产的每批蓝虾都是品质保证，拥有

The result is an elegant, unblemished outer shell, and

漂亮无瑕的外壳及鲜甜、弹牙扎实并俱的

flesh with both a complex sweetness and bouncy firmness,

口感，生吃时更能体验其美妙滋味。吃过

especially when eaten raw. Once tasted, the question is not

的人必定对 Obsiblue 蓝虾身为米其林餐厅

why Obsiblue prawns are on every Michelin-star menu, but

的必备珍馐毫无疑问，只想问等候佳肴的

why it took so long .

时间为何如此天长地久！

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

43

天然美味用途多

�eed and Reap Seaweed 海草

IT C AN BE DRIED in the sun, baked, pan-fried, ground to

海草有上百种加工方法，晒干、烘烤、干

powder, boiled, or eaten fresh. Farmers don’t have to plant

煎、磨粉、汆烫或直接生吃。不用费心栽

it, or water it – if you are lucky enough to live near a beach,

种或浇水－幸运一点住海边的话，甚至早

you can collect it for free on your morning walk and have

上散步采一些海草回家，中午就可以当沙

it salad-ready by lunch. Nutritionists agree that it’s packed

拉享用了。海草也有营养师背书，富含多

with vitamins and essential minerals. It has a unique, natural,

种维他命及必要矿物质，味道天然、鲜甜，

sweet and salty flavor. Depending on the variety, it can offer

带有咸味，独树一格。不同种类更能为海

a unique summery kick to seafood dishes. Roasted, it has a

鲜料理带来独一无二的夏日风情。网烤处

wonderful savory flavor.

理则会散发扑鼻的开胃香气。

It’s versatile, healthy and delicious. If you’re not already in the habit of rejoicing at the joys of seaweed, it’s time to start.

Most edible types of seaweed can be broadly divided

现在开始还不晚。 绝大部分食用海草可分为三类 ：棕海

like Wakame, hail from temperate and arctic waters and are a

草、绿海草及红海草。前者类似日本人常

common element of Japanese cooking.

吃的「Wakame」海菜，生长于北极圈较 为温暖的海域，为日式料理常见的食材。

include varieties such as Kombu Breton and Kombu Royal.

绿海草有时称为海白菜，包括布瑞顿

Also a core ingredient of Japanese cuisine, green seaweeds

(Breton) 昆 布 及 皇 家 (Royal) 昆 布 等 多 个

are used to add extra texture to soups and salads, and that

种类。日式料理常用昆布为汤品或沙拉增

certain savory flavor the Japanese call “umami” or the “fifth

添味道，此一独到风味日本人称为「鲜味

flavor.”

(Umami)」或「第五味」。

In the red corner are seaweeds that are slightly sweeter

|

处。还没习惯吃海草、大啖海草美味的人，

into three categories: brown, green and red. Brown seaweeds,

Green seaweeds, sometimes known as sea lettuce,

44

海草用途百变、美味，对健康极有益

相较之下，红海草较甜，常烘干食用，

and often eaten crispy and dry. Dulse, a champion grower

口感酥脆。生长于大西洋及太平洋北岸的

found on the northern shores of the Atlantic and Pacific

品种「Dulse」品质一流，冰岛人习惯和着

Oceans, is used in Iceland in the place of tortilla chips, or

玉米饼，或沾一大层奶油温温的吃，也算

eaten warm and slathered in butter. Not bad for a weed.

物尽其用了。

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

the first five years

|

TK |

45

46

|

TK | the first five years

法国制造

French Connection Brittany Sea Urchin 布列塔尼海胆

T H I S S E A U R C H I N ’ S J O U R N E Y begins in the cool waters

法国布列塔尼沿岸某处突出半岛邻近的

around a peninsula jutting off the coast of Brittany, France.

冷 水 海 域， 是 为 此 种 海 胆 旅 程 的 起 点。

The commune of Quiberon is famous not only for urchins,

Quiberon 行 政 区 有 名 的 不 仅 是 海 胆， 也

but also as the spiritual home of a frequently overlooked

是罐装沙丁鱼的故乡，虽鲜为人所知，却

contribution to world cuisine: the canned sardine. In the early

是全球餐饮文化中不可或缺的要角之一。

nineteenth century, Quiberon was the home of a brilliant

十九世纪曾居住於 Quiberon 的聪明法国化

French chef, confectioner, and distiller, called Nicolas Appert,

学家 Nicolas Appert 首创以煮沸的密闭锡

who revolutionized the way the world eats with his technique

罐保存鱼肉，为世界饮食历史带来革命性

of preserving fish by placing it in boiled, airtight cans.

的影响。

By contrast, the local method of collecting urchins is still

相较之下，当地采集海胆的方式仍然

decidedly low-tech. With its white-shell beaches, salty sea

相当原始。 优美的白沙滩、咸味海风及怀

breezes and charming ancient fishing villages, Quiberon in the

古风情的渔村景致，让 Quiberon 在夏日时

summer months is a laid-back seaside resort. But come winter,

光里成为悠闲的海边度假圣地。但时序进

as the sea breezes turn to icy winds straight off the Bay of

入冬天，比斯开湾吹来的海风冰寒彻骨，

Biscay, the hardy Quiberonnais foot fishermen get to work.

却正是当地吃苦耐劳的渔夫们开始工作的

October to April is sea urchin season, and a select few local fishermen are permitted to collect, by hand, a strictly

时节。 十月到四月为海胆产季，仅有少数获

enforced quota of the creatures. Licenses are difficult to

准的渔夫得以用双手采集为数有限的海胆。

obtain and easy to lose. Few fishermen risk their livelihood

采集证照不仅难以取得，一不小心更会失

for the sake of a few extra euros.

去采集资格，少有渔夫愿意为了多赚那几

There is a marvelous French expression that references the sea urchin’s sharp defensive spines and is used to describe someone who is tight-fisted with his money: “Il a des oursins

块钱卖命下海。 法文中有句话以海胆尖锐的刺骨为譬 喻，用以形容人一毛不拔可说是活灵活现 ：

dans les poches!” (He has urchins in his pockets!) Such dining

「Il a des oursins dans les poches!( 他口袋

companions are best avoided if you wish to order Brittany

中有海胆 )」，要找这种人去餐厅大啖布列

sea urchins. With a distinctively tangy yet smooth flavor

塔尼海胆的话，可要三思。海胆味道浓呛

like nothing else from the sea, they continue to command a

却又滑顺，找不到其他海鲜与之比拟，不

handsome fee everywhere they go.

管在哪品尝可都所费不赀。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

47

吓人外表 极致美味

Armed and Delicious Scorpion Fish 天蝎鱼

THE NAME ITSELF inspires trepidation – is it really worth

天蝎鱼一如其名，让人听来心生畏惧，真有

experimenting with the flesh of such a creature for the sake

需要为了尝鲜拿这种高难度的鱼类来开刀

of an original seafood experience? Fiercely orange, slimy, and

吗？天蝎鱼的橘红色泽挑衅意味十足，加上

armed with savage-looking teeth and venom-covered spikes,

黏滑的身躯、血盆大口内的锋利牙齿以及含

its appearance isn’t exactly welcoming. The roe and internal

有剧毒的尖刺，确实叫人退步三舍。天蝎鱼

organs are deadly poisonous. Some species in the scorpion

卵及内脏满是致命剧毒，同科鱼类下更有数

fish family have been uninvitingly described as the “world’s

种名列「全球最致命」排行榜，再怎么想都

deadliest” fish. Hardly a gourmet’s delight.

难以和老饕的盘中美味划上等号。

But to dismiss the scorpion fish too quickly is to miss the point that in this case, the end may in fact justify the means.

Caught by line from the depths of tropical or temperate

48

|

但可别急着下定论，说不定最后会出 现意想不到的结果。 天蝎鱼一般以延绳捕捞，它们栖息在

seas, particularly off the coasts of Eastern Australia and

东澳及西班牙沿海热带或温热的深海海域，

Spain, its finely grained white flesh is tender and juicy, not

白色的鱼肉纹理细致、软嫩多汁，不油不柴、

too oily and not too dry. It is firm and robust enough to make

肥瘦间隔得宜。天蝎鱼质地扎实、风味独具，

an excellent ingredient in just about any dish, holding up

搭配各式料理都有水准以上的表现，除了

particularly well in pasta, but doing just as nicely pan-fried.

拌制意大利面外，香煎处理也非常美味。

Scorpion fish is flavorsome and slightly sweet, not unlike

天蝎鱼味道丰富、带些许甜味，与石斑一

grouper, never so brash as to overpower more delicate

样能与他种细嫩食材调和，交汇彼此。总

ingredients. In short, a scorpion fish tastes a lot more

的来说，天蝎鱼虽然外表吓人，但吃来让

welcoming than it looks, and it’s the perfect fish for a chef to

人惊艳，对于欲大展身手的大厨们，也是

use to demonstrate his or her skills.

能一显高超技巧的绝佳食材。

So don’t let the spikes scare you away. Or if you do

所以可别让满身尖刺给吓跑了！或真

decide to play it safe and toss the scorpion fish into the too-

觉得难度太高、只求安全过关的话，拿走

challenging basket, just make sure you’re wearing protective

天蝎鱼的时候可千万记得戴着手套，别受

gloves.

伤了。

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

the first five years

|

TK |

49

S pice �orld 香料王国

In Old Delhi, India, TK Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan take a walk along Khari Baoli Street to visit the world’s largest spice market.

50

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

51

52

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

53

54

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

SPICE WORLD

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

55

56

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

57

A BLUE HAZE HANGS ABO VE THE TREES on a crisp Delhi

德里一大清早，天气尚凉，树上方笼罩一片

morning. People hug arms to bodies against the slight

蓝色薄雾，只见路上行人纷纷以手环绕胸前，

winter chill. Along the pavement, heaps of flower heads

抵御那冬日寒意。人行道上，成堆花束在塑

are piled high on plastic sheets, burnt orange and deep red

胶布上叠得老高，也可看到褐橘及深红金盏

marigolds alternating with the flat grey concrete that peeps

花交替，顺着灰色的斑驳土墙直趋隔壁摊位

through between each flower vendor’s space. A faint scent

一窥究竟。阵阵玫瑰芳香令人晕眩，稍加缓

of roses softens the air.

解了空气中的紧绷气氛。

Customers push their way between the vendors, eyeing

市集四处摩肩擦踵，客人在摊贩间穿梭，

the flowers keenly. The flower sellers have only a few hours

眼中只有想要寻找的花。花贩时间不多，无

before the shuttered shops behind them will open their

不大声贩售，因再过数小时，后方商店就要

doors and the street will fill with traders, all making their way to the suffocating lanes of Gadodia, the world’s largest wholesale spice market.

Three monkeys gambol along a plait of cables, traversing Khari Baoli, a busy street in Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk district. Beneath them the road is packed with people moving sack loads of spices: rickshaws are piled high, men haul trolleys, porters known as coolie wallahs lug hessian sacks on their shoulders or

Some sacks have split already, revealing dried chilies, their bright red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light of the alley.

balance stacks of boxes on their heads.

开张，届时街道将满是贸 易商，全世界最大的香料 批 发 市 场「Gadodia」 周 边大街小巷都将挤得水泄 不通。 三只猴子在绳索编成 的缆线上跳跃，在旧德里 Chandni Chowk 城 区 繁 忙 的大街 Khari Baoli 上方玩 得不亦乐乎。底下的人们 正忙着将一袋袋香料搬进 搬出 ：人力车上早已堆满 货物、男人拉着拖车前行、

An ox with horns painted the colors of the Indian flag

苦力则扛起脚夫的工作，将大捆麻袋放在肩

lumbers past. A horse wearing blinkers pulls a cart loaded

上、或把箱子巧妙层层堆在头顶，使命必达。

with rice.

同时一只牛角画上印度国旗颜色的大公牛缓

The street fills with the sounds of horns, shouts and cries as each worker forces his way through the cars, draft

步经过，另一头则见一匹戴着眼罩的马儿使 劲拖着堆满白米袋的轮车。

animals and bicycles, all fighting to get to the same place.

街道上喇叭声、搬运工穿梭车阵的吆喝

A man gives directions in Hindi: “The spice market is after

声此起彼落，他们的目的地和一旁的驼兽与

the second tree on the left.” A dark-walled lane leads into

搬运脚踏车都一样是香料市场。有个好心人

a central courtyard encircled by four floors of shops. Each

用印度话帮忙报路 ： 「过左边第二棵树就可

property is filled from floor to ceiling with sacks. Coolie

以到市场了。」沿着满是暗黑砖墙的小巷往

wallahs ferry the sacks inside and pile them up, carrying bill

前不久，便来到了空旷的广场，四周俱是四

hooks to steady the loads and cutlasses to slice them open.

层楼建筑，在各店家内都可发现香料袋直从

➥

the first five years

|

TK |

59

60

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

SPICE WORLD

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

61

Some sacks have split already, revealing dried chilies,

地板堆到天花板。苦力把麻袋搬进店里，先

their bright red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light

用小镰刀袈着袋子保持重心，随即就以小刀

of the alley. A porter wanders past, covered in yellow dust.

把麻袋划开。有些麻袋原就已裂开，露出其

As he walks by, the sack he is carrying puffs small clouds

内的干燥香料，亮红及橘黄色泽在巷弄中幽

of turmeric into the heavy air. Its sour stench catches in

暗光线下熠熠发光。此时有个身上满是黄色

the throats of the porters and traders, and a rhythmic

粉尘的脚夫路过，肩上麻袋不时喷出姜黄粉

cacophony of coughing breaks out. A wounded sack sits

末，酸呛味让一旁的搬运工及商人不只闻得

forlornly outside a shop, slowly shedding chilies onto the

难受，还呛到喉咙，引发一阵阵咳嗽，声音

dusty earth.

如有韵律般久久不消。商店门外还有包破烂

Most of the customers in Gadodia are wholesale spice

的麻袋，躺在路边无人答理，只见香料在尘

traders, buying in bulk and distributing

土飞扬中缓缓流泄而出。

to s h o p s a l l ove r I n d i a . S o m e a re exporters, collecting spices that will travel across the world. Others are here for a joyful reason: to buy large quantities of ingredients for wedding banquets. “It is wedding season here in India between November and March,” says the brother of a brideto-be. “We invite a thousand people to a celebration lasting several days, so we have to cook a lot of food for our

来「Gadodia」的客人中，

有些麻袋原就已 裂开，露出其内 的干燥香料，亮 红及橘黄色泽在 巷弄中幽暗光线 下熠熠发光。

guests. We are buying twenty kilograms

以香料批发贸易商为众多， 大量采购后再分卖到全印 度的商店，而市场也能看 到出口商的身影，欲物色 香料卖到世界各地。有的 则是为了令人欢欣的理由 到此一访 ：为婚宴购入大 量的食材。现场有位准新 娘的哥哥就说 ： 「十一月到 三月间正是印度的结婚旺 季，上千名宾客将受邀参

of hot chili powder and five kilograms of cumin. It’s a lot

加连续多天的庆祝仪式，自然要准备的食物

cheaper here than anywhere else.”

也相当可观。我们今天要买整整二十公斤的

The haze clears as a piercing winter sun burns through

辣椒粉和五公斤的莳萝，到这边买最划算了。 」

scant cloud. Coats are shed. The coolie wallahs’ foreheads

穿透稀薄云层，天际洒下刺眼冬阳，薄

are studded with sweat. From nearby Fatehpuri Masjid,

雾逐渐消散。人们脱掉外套，苦力的额头也

a mullah sings the call to prayer. One of the shops in the

开始渗满汗珠。邻近的 Fatehpuri Masjid 清

market fills with hungry workers and shopkeepers, queuing

真寺中，传来教长毛拉唱催祷颂的声音。市

to buy hot naan bread, fresh from the tandoor. Coolie

场一间店里立刻塞满饥肠辘辘的工人及店老

wallahs squat against the walls, or recline on top of carts

板，排队要买坦都烤炉刚出炉的烤饼。苦力

to eat, listening to the pulsing beat of motorbike horns and

们或蹲在墙边，或倚着拖车进食，传进耳里

to the shouts of their coworkers as they file past carrying

的不是摩托车震耳欲聋的喇叭声，就是其他

their loads.

工人排队准备搬货大声嚷嚷的叫声。

➥

the first five years

|

TK |

63

64

|

TK | the first five years

the first five years

|

TK |

65

On Khari Baoli Street a stall sells bright green leaves

色叶子包成的小点，形状像是凸起的爱心。

with a pink paste, scatters it with flakes of tobacco and

店家手法俐落，拿起一片叶子涂上粉红色

chips of cardamom and areca nut, and then folds the leaf

的膏状物、洒上烟草片、小豆蔻和槟榔籽，

into a triangle. This is paan , a treat that is chewed. The

包成三角形就大功告成。这种用来嚼的点

leaf is from the betel vine, renowned for its psychoactive

心 当 地 人 称 之 为「paan」。 拿 来 包 的 槟 榔

properties. The areca nut and tobacco promote alertness.

叶可以提神，槟榔籽及烟草则有醒脑的效

“Paan is very popular with the coolie wallahs,” says the

果。店家表示 ： 「paan 在苦力阶级里很流行，

stallholder. “They chew it and spit out

嚼一嚼会吐出红色的槟榔

streams of red liquid. The ingredients

汁，里面包的都是刺激精

have a stimulant effect on the mind.

But if you have too much paan, it can make you go crazy. The coolie wallahs need it though, as they work hard for many hours. Paan helps them to keep working.”

The coolie wallahs continue their work inside the market. Out on the street, smart shop fronts display spices which have traveled to Delhi from Gujarat, South Kerala, Rajasthan and

The jewel colors of turmeric, chili, cardamom and mace shine amongst the multiple browns of cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon.

from every corner of India. Some have

每天都要辛苦工作好几个 小 时， 嚼 着 paan 可 让 他 们活力持久。」 市场里，满身大汗的 苦 力 仍 埋 头 苦 干。 大 街 另一头整洁的店头则摆 着 来 自 Gujarat、South Kerala 及 Rajasthan 等 印 度 各 地 而 来 的 香 料。 有些长途跋涉的程度超

乎 想 像， 某 家 老 板 介 绍 ： 「我们家绿豆蔻

from Iran,” explains a shopkeeper.

可是从伊朗来的。」

In the back of one shop an assistant wearing a plastic

|

神效果的成份，吃太多的 话可能会疯掉，不过苦力

had an even longer journey. “Our green cardamom comes

glove shapes bowls of ground spices into neat dunes.

66

Khari Baoli 大街上有个摊贩专卖亮绿

the shape of upturned hearts. The stallholder paints a leaf

旁边店里可以看到助理戴着塑胶手套， 在店后方整理地上纷乱的成堆香料，分门别

The jewel colors of turmeric, chili, cardamom and mace

类后有咖啡色系的莳萝、肉豆蔻及肉桂小

shine amongst the multiple browns of cumin, nutmeg and

山，正好衬出姜黄、番椒、小豆蔻及豆蔻的

cinnamon. The shop front is festooned with a garland of

珠宝色泽。店门前装饰着金盏花圈，并交叉

marigold flowers, interlaced with coiled, shiny green mango

缀着盘卷、散发亮绿色调的芒果叶。当问及

leaves. “The flowers?” says the shopkeeper. “We hang

门口花饰，店老板解释 ： 「挂花可以带来好运，

them outside to attract luck. It’s good for our business.”

助我们生意兴隆。」

TK | the first five years

① ② ③ ④ ⑤

year

③

EXPLORATION TASTING KITCHEN expanded during its first two years: in size, it went from the 40 pages of TK1 to

the 164 pages of TK10 , and in circulation, it grew from a few hundred distribution points in Macau to almost two thousand across Hong Kong and Macau. It also expanded in the geographical scope of its editorial coverage, gradually evolving from an initial focus on “Best of Hong Kong and Macau” themes to the frequent publication, starting in our second and third years, of culinary destination issues. These tell the story of a region through its ingredients, cuisine, wines, and spirits; its farmers, fishermen, and chefs; its art and design.

Following the success of our feature on the Old Delhi spice markets in TK10 , our ambitions quickly grew, and with TK11 we took on all of China in an issue, Icons of the Empire , that saw us crisscrossing the Middle Kingdom. We learned about the nuances of Sichuan spice (there’s more to it than the numbing peppercorns), and we visited a baijiu distillery, with its mountainous piles of grains and billowing clouds of steam. We searched for the world’s best Peking duck in Beijing, sat at banquets during the Snow Polo World Cup in Tianjin, and explored West Lake Restaurant in Changsha, Hunan, which can seat more than seven thousand people (the food was surprisingly delicious).

In our third year for our Fruits, Flowers, and Bugs issue, we spent a week in Bangkok (hardearned wisdom: sample the crickets and grasshoppers, avoid the waterbugs and scorpions) before creating dedicated issues on two culinary powerhouses, France and Italy.

For TK14 , French Heavyweights , we helped to commemorate the one-hundredth anniversary of the historic Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc on the fabled French Riviera and learned to appreciate the pure simplicity of Eric Frechon’s approach at Le Bristol Paris. In TK15 we experienced the tranquillity of Tuscany and tasted the perfect expression of the Sangiovese grape in Brunello di Montalcino before spending a day in the Modena kitchen of Massimo Bottura.

The best TK issues have space to share new discoveries, and we always try to leave a buffer during our trips to let serendipity play its role. In China, for example, we stumbled across a private kitchen in Chengdu, in Italy we rented a car and embarked on a cross-country search for Italy’s best pizza (which we think we found in San Bonifacio), and in Taiwan we got up at two in the morning to join a produce auction where more than a hundred thousand boxes of fruits and vegetables are sold by dawn. As we left, the manager gave us a box of the sweetest mangoes we’d ever tasted.

the first five years

|

TK |

69

色 · 味双馨

More Than a Pre¦y Face Blooming with fresh and unexpected flavors, these edible flowers don’t rely on just good looks to make an impression. At the Mira Hotel Hong Kong, Whisk’s talented Executive Chef Bjoern Alexander uses them with enthusiasm and precision to create dishes of great complexity and subtlety.

BY KRISTEN GALLAGHER

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

•

FLOWERS COURTESY OF CLASSIC FINE FOODS

Rugged Beauty VERBENA LEAVES 马鞭草叶

Drought resistant and surprisingly hardy, the verbena’s girlish exterior belies a stubborn will to survive. With full sunshine and moderate watering, the almost saccharinesweet smell of the blooms will attract the neighborhood butterflies all summer. Delicate stems holding up feminine clusters of pink and white bloom make the verbena almost too pretty to eat. If you hesitate, you’ll be missing out: verbena flowers produce a strong tang of punchy citrus flavor that surprises and delights. Used sparingly, they can transform a common salad into something spectacular.

Verbena has also long been associated with both the occult and the divine. A manual of magic from 1870 recommends it for protection against spells; chefs today may well recommend it for protection against the ordinary. 耐旱以及惊人的吃苦耐劳，使马鞭草少女般的外表下隐藏着 十足坚强的生存意志。满满日照加上少量水分，就会让马鞭 草叶近乎糖精的香甜味道吸引邻近地区的蝴蝶驻足，这道美 景能持续整个夏天。纤细叶茎撑起娇柔的粉红或白色花团， 娇巧可爱，简直叫人不忍下口。但不吃的话，损失可不小 ： 马鞭草叶有着让人意想不到，强烈的柑橘味道，吃了让人心 情愉悦。少量使用，就足以让普通的沙拉摇身成为味道一流 的美馔。此外马鞭草与神秘仪式及神学有不少历史渊源，根

百百百百百百

据 1870 年一本魔法手志记载，马鞭草有免于咒语之害的保 护作用，套到今日的厨师身上，他们会说－马鞭草可发挥让 料理免于平庸的神奇效果。

Blooming with fresh and unexpected flavors, these edible flowers don’t rely on just good looks to make an impression. At the Mira Hotel Hong Kong, Whisk’s talented Executive Chef Bjoern Alexander uses them with enthusiasm and precision to create dishes of great complexity and subtlety.

BY KRISTEN GALLAGHER

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

CHEFS EVERYWHERE use the roots and leaves of vegetables such as

厨师在任何地方使用的根和蔬菜，如火箭，水菜和

rocket, mizuna and carrot. Yet the blossoms of these same plants, despite CHEFS EVERYWHERE the roots and leaves of vegetables such as their tempting beauty anduse complex, intriguing flavors, are considerably rocket, mizuna and carrot.

Yet the blossoms of these same plants, despite less well known. Bjoern Alexander, Executive Chef of Whisk at the their tempting beauty and complex, intriguing flavors, are considerably Mira Hong Kong, says it comes down to a combination of availability well known.

Bjoern Alexander, Executive Chef short of Whisk at the Mira and less instability: “So many of the blossoms have a very season, Hong Kong, says it comes down to a combination of availability and sometimes just two weeks. And the supply can be unpredictable. You stability: “So many of the blossoms have a very short season, sometimes can’t risk putting them on your menu.” just weeks.

And the supply can be unpredictable. can’t riskof Thetwo natural delicacy of each bloom means few travelYou well.

“Most putting them on your menu.” the flowers I use are sourced from Europe – it’s a long way for them to The Chef natural delicacy of eachyou bloom fewrestaurants travel well. with “Most of come,” says Bjoern.

“In Europe will means find many the flowers I use are sourced from Europe – it’s a long way for them small gardens attached for the purpose of growing ingredients, but of to come,” Bjoern.

“In Europe you will find many restaurants with course, this says isn’t Chef an option in Hong Kong.” small gardens attached for the purpose of growing ingredients, but of Bjoern’s love of using flowers in his dishes has prompted him to course, this isn’t an option in Hong Kong.” rise to these challenges in an ingenious variety of ways. He works with Bjoern’s love of usingNew flowers in his dishes hasthem prompted him to organic farms in Hong Kong’s Territories, advising on varietals rise to these challenges in an ingenious variety of ways.

He works to develop. He sometimes uses a single bloom to create a reserve of with organic farms in Hong Kong’s uses Newover Territories, advisingAnd them on varietals liquid essence, allowing multiple many months. there’s to develop.

He sometimes uses a single bloom to create a reserve of always the good, old-fashioned chef’s instinct of finding out what’s good, liquid essence, allowing multiple uses over many months.

And there’s and then buying plenty of it. always the admit old-fashioned instinct of finding outhewhat’s He won’t to havingchef’s a favorite flower, though clearlygood, has aand then buying plenty of it. soft spot for the humble geranium. “I love it. I love it!” he says. “Because He won’t to having favorite though he clearly it’s used mostly in admit cosmetics, I thinka the tasteflower, is so unexpected - that’shas a a soft spot for the humble geranium.

“I love it.

I love it!” he says.

“Because great thing.” it’s used mostly in cosmetics, I think the taste is so unexpected — that’s a great thing.”

胡萝卜的叶子。然而，这些相同的植物的花，尽管 一直以来，各地大厨会在烹调时会选用像是芝麻叶、 他们诱人的美丽和复杂，耐人寻味的味道，是相当 日本芜菁及萝卜等植物的根茎及菜叶，但同株长出 少为人知。比约恩 · 亚历山大，打蛋器的行政总厨 的花娇艳欲滴、味道丰富引人入胜，却少有露面的 在香港美丽华说，它涉及到的可用性和稳定性的结 机会。 The Mira Hong Kong「WHISK」餐厅行政主 合： “ 这么多的花朵有一个很短的季节，有时只是 厨 Bjoer​n Alexander 表示，材料的供应期及稳定性 两个星期。而供应是不可预知的。你不能冒险把他 都是问题。 们的菜单上。 “「因为花期短，有的才短短两周，加上 供货量难以预测，敢冒险将花卉加进菜单的餐厅自 每一个绽放的自然细腻意味着一些旅游好。 然少之又少。 」 “ 大多数我用鲜花货源来自欧洲 - 这是一个很长的 因此最终能端上桌享用的食用花可说是「旅 比约恩厨师说。 路要走他们来， ” “ 在欧洲，你会 途愉快」的少数代表，主厨表示 ： 「我用的花大部 发现许多餐馆附有种植原料的目的小花园， 但当然， 分来自欧洲 ：路途遥远可想而知。欧洲很多餐厅有 这不是香港的一个选项。 ” 他们栽种食材并选配入菜，自给自足， 自己的花园， 比约恩的爱用鲜花在他的菜肴，促使他去迎 这在香港形同痴人说梦。 」 接这些挑战，在一个巧妙的多种方式。他与有机农 尽管这么说，但 Bjoern 对食用花创意料理情 场在香港的新界，建议他们在品种开发。他有时会 有独钟，他排除万难，想方设法也要实现此一梦想。 使用一个单一的绽放营造精华液储备，允许多种用

Bjoern 和香港新界的有机农场合作，指导他们朝变 途，在很多个月。而且总有找出什么是好的，然后 种栽植方向发展。主厨有时从单株花萃取液态精华， 买很多它的好，老式的厨师的本能。 以应接下来数月的多种用途 ；有时也会发挥老派一 他不会承认自己有喜欢的花，但他显然对不 流大厨的直觉，开发味道最好的食用花， 大量买进。 起眼的天竺葵情有独钟。 “ 我喜欢它。我喜欢它！

Bjoern 虽然三缄其口，但 “ 他说。 问到最喜欢的花， “ 因为它主要用于化妆品，我觉得味道太 旁敲侧击之下便能得知他的心头好正是天竺葵。主 意外了 - 这是一个伟大的事情 ” 厨倒也爽快承认 ： 「我很爱、超爱的！天竺葵一般 是美妆品制造所用，因此入菜的味道之好会让人惊 艳不已，效果很棒。 」

Editor's note: Currently, Chef Bjoern Alexander is still based in Hong Kong and is planning his next project.

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

73

Saving Grace VANANCO LEAVES

Chefs like to say that every ingredient in a dish has to justify its inclusion.

There are no free rides when it comes to the intricate symphony of flavors that characterize a peak dining experience. Vananco Leaves (Koppert Cress's brand name for the flower) may be the exception. “For me, it tastes slightly bitter, not distinctive at all – just like a normal flower,” says Chef Bjoern. “But it has become very popular in Hong Kong. Many chefs are using it now.” He isn’t afraid to admit that he admires the bloom more for its movie-star looks than any particular depth of taste or character. Perhaps the key to the bloom's popularity is that exact fact: its indistinct taste will never threaten to show up the more extroverted flavors on the plate. “Apart from being so attractive, its one other positive feature is the texture – juicy and crunchy. I’ll sometimes serve a single petal leaf with octopus, just placed on top for color.” 厨师们总说，料理中的每种食材都应师出有

P leasan²y Perfumed

名，都要能有所发挥。食材各司其职，才能 交织出层次丰富的美味交响曲，造就最佳的 餐饮体验，但 Vananco 花可能是少数的例外。 「对我而言 Vananco 花味道稍苦， Bjoern 强调： 不突出，和一般的花没有两样。但目前在香 港餐饮界正时兴，很多厨师都在用。 」说到

GERANIUM FLOWER

选择 Vananco 花的原因，他也毫不讳言，比

天竺葵花

起味道特殊或风格独具，倒不如说是出于对

Vananco 花那明星级外貌的仰慕。Vananco 花会走红或许正因如此 ：味道独特，从不喧 宾夺主，在料理中强出头。 「除了诱惑力十足 的外表，多汁又爽脆的口感也是一大卖点。 有时我会用 Vananco 花搭配章鱼，只消放上 一朵花瓣，就能增添诱人的色泽。 」

For most people, the first association produced by a whiff of a geranium flower is not with food but with perfume. “Yes, it’s very unusual, very unexpected in cooking,” says Chef Bjoern. “Not a lot of chefs use it, but I love it. To me it’s really special. When you first eat it, you think, ‘Wow, this is very different!’

Because it’s quite bitter, quite sour, you have to think hard about where it will work.” As it happens, the geranium works very nicely against something sweet, providing a subtle bitter element that cuts through the sugar and adds complexity. “But it’s not just desserts,” Chef Bjoern emphasizes. “It also works perfectly well with a meat that is quite sweet, like langoustine.” 闻到天竺葵花味道，大部分人想到的不是食物而是香水。用在料理上，主厨 「确实很不寻常，出人意料之外。不是很多厨师会这样用，但天竺 Bjoe​rn 表示 ： 葵花很特​​别，我很喜欢。第一次尝试的人会觉得 ： 『哇，真的很不一样！』这种 花口感很苦很酸，选用前可要考虑清楚，放到哪才有最佳效果。 」天竺葵适合搭 配甘甜的主味，细腻的苦涩味可让点心吃来甜而不腻，增添层次。不过主厨也强 调： 「天竺葵不光在甜点上可以发挥妙用，搭配肉质偏甜的食材，像是海螯虾也 无懈可击。 」 the first five years

|

TK |

75

ANISE BLOSSOM 大茴香花

Fringe Benefits

Mixed Appeal FENNEL FLOWER 茴香花

← Anise is so closely related to fennel in taste that many cuisines fail to differentiate between the two.

Like fennel, it has a powerful licorice taste that isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, though the strong taste is more likely to be acceptable in a steaming mug than as a garnish on a main course. Chef Bjoern thinks that selling anise in a dish is even harder than selling fennel: “Anise has a stronger concentration of flavor. It can be difficult to convince people to try it.” How to prompt cautious palates into giving anise a chance? It seems that talking up the health benefits is one fail-safe way. “I’ll make sure I tell guests that anise is good for blood pressure, that it’s good for the heart – which is true!” laughs Chef Bjoern. “After that, they’ll think, ‘Well, if the chef says it’s good for me, I better try it.’ And most of the time they like it!”

Is there a flower that wears more hats than the fennel?

Referenced in a famous tenth century text as a treatment for poisoning, fennel flowers have also been prescribed throughout history to make cough syrup, as an aid to fertility, and, slightly less salubriously, as a horse-flea repellent. While the grooms were busy with fennel in the stables, the head cooks also found plentiful uses for it in the kitchen. “You use the flower when it’s yellow. That’s when the flavor is at its most intense. When you take it in your fingers and rub it a little, it smells amazing, a bit like [the liqueur] Sambuca,” says Chef Bjoern. “I have discovered, though, that the Asian palate sometimes doesn’t love it, because many people don’t necessarily like the flavor of anise, star anise and licorice. So you must be very careful how you use it. It can balance the heaviness of something like beef cheek very well, but it can also be overwhelming in its flavor.”

大茴香味道近似茴香，很多菜肴中都吃不出两者的差别。

请问，世上有比茴香花帽数量还多的花吗？早在十世纪，茴香

举例来说，茴香那强烈的甘草味，并非每个人都喜欢，

便是解毒良方，茴香花则作为感冒糖浆原料、助孕秘方，还有

但若用于香氤弥漫的热茶，而非主菜上的点缀，接受度

说来比较不雅一点，也有驱散马跳蚤的效果。马夫拿着茴香在

可能就高出许多。就 Bjoern 之见，换成大茴香可能难度

马厩忙进忙出的时候，职掌厨房的大厨们也发掘了茴香的各种

更高 ： 「大茴香味道很浓重，真要人试试看可不容易。 」

「茴香花转黄时味道正浓，是使用的最佳 妙用。Bjoern 说明 ：

对于未知的味道一般人容易裹足不前，该如何突破心防

时机，用手指稍加搓揉，花瓣就会散发美妙的香味，有点像意

呢？强调健康疗效包准错不了，主厨笑着说 ： 「我都和客

大利 Sambuca 酒。不过这个风味似乎不特别对亚洲人的胃口，

人再三强调，大茴香对降血压很有用、对心脏很好。听

这边很多人并不特别喜欢大茴香、八角或甘草的味道，所以用

我这么说，他们可能会想 ： 『这么好的话，不试试不行。 』

的时候一定要特别小心。搭配像是牛颊肉等味道浓厚的食材效

而且吃过之后，大部分反应都很好！」

果很好，但拿捏失当也有可能导致味道太过突出。 」

the first five years

|

TK |

77

O¾erwor∞dly APPLE BLOSSOM 苹果花

78

|

TK | the first five years

In pagan times an apple branch bearing blossoms was thought to hold the key to the underworld. With its tantalizing sourness and springy, juicy texture, it’s easy to understand the devilish appeal of this remarkable ingredient. “Most people think that because it’s so sour, you have to cook it,’’ says Chef Bjoern. “No. You must use it raw. That’s why I don’t use it on really hot dishes, because the flavor is sensitive and will be lost very quickly. I would use apple blossom, for example, with foie gras, because when you serve foie gras you need some acidity. For steamed fish it works well too. But now I use most of the apple blossoms for my oysters.

For oysters they’re perfect, because there’s the saltiness, the sea water taste, cut through with freshness again.”

异教时期，开花的苹果树枝被视为 通往地下世界的钥匙。因苹果多汁、 水分满溢、诱人心神，外表如恶魔 般勾人，有此一说自然不难想像。 说到料理方式，Bjoern 对许多人因 为酸味主张需煮过才能食用大加反 对： 「绝对要生吃才行！苹果花纤细 的味道很容易流失，所以我很少用 来搭配热盘。像鹅肝佐苹果花就很 棒，搭配一些酸味刚刚好，拿来点 缀蒸鱼也不错。不过现在对我来说， 苹果花和生蚝是最佳拍档，鲜爽口 感正好中和海水的咸味，有画龙点 睛的效果。 」

Oyster with apple blossoms, green apple, jalapeño, cucumber, and BlinQ Blossom 生蚝配苹果花丶青苹果丶墨西哥辣椒丶青瓜及BlinQ食用花

80

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

Diamond in ¾e Tough CARROT FLOWER 萝卜花

Black garlic sponge with dried purple carrots, maple syrup and carrot blossoms 黑蒜海绵配紫萝卜乾丶枫糖浆及萝卜花

Mention carrot flowers to most chefs and they will think you want to know how to carve a garnish. Not Chef Bjoern, who loves using every component of the plant, from tip to taproot. “My staff are always laughing – when we get carrots with the green leaves and blossoms still attached, I take them straight away. They’ll say, ‘Chef, are these for the rabbits?’” The carrot flower tastes like, well, carrot, but with an appealing, abrupt sweetness that makes them the perfect foil for the dark pungency of a black garlic sponge. “When I think about ingredients like carrots and carrot blossoms, it reminds me that fine dining is not only about using expensive products. My old chef used to tell me, ‘It’s very easy to pan-fry a foie gras, because it’s already expensive and you don’t really have to work for it.’ But it is more difficult to create a simple dish with simple ingredients. Like a carrot.” 和厨师提到萝卜花，大部分都会联想到食物雕花。Bjoern 可不这么想， 食材到了他手中，从头到根须无所不用。他自己就说 ： 「每次看到叶子和 花还没拔除的萝卜，我都二话不说接手过来，所以我家员工老爱挖苦我说： 『主厨，这是要给兔子吃的吗？』萝卜花的味道，要说的话，像萝卜，但 那突显的甜味和黑蒜块的隐晦呛劲很互补。 」 「每次用到萝卜或萝卜花这 种食材总让我想到一句话 ：顶级餐饮不是光有昂贵食材就可以的。以前 师傅就经常教导我说 ： 『香煎鹅肝再简单不过，食材本身很贵，不用下什 么功夫就很好吃。 』用像是萝卜的简单食材去创造简单的美味料理反而难 度更高。 」

Delicate Taste GARLIC FLOWER 蒜花

Beef tartare with nasturtium leaves, garlic flowers and black truffle 牛肉他他配金莲花丶蒜花及黑松露

82

|

TK | the first five years

Fresh garlic is a wonderful thing, a king among ingredients, but with one rather obvious downside. “The thing is, when you eat fresh garlic, well, you smell a lot,” says Chef Bjoern. “But with the garlic blossom, you can get the taste of the garlic, but without the overpowering smell. It’s more delicate.” Given the yearround proliferation of fresh garlic, it’d be natural to assume that garlic flowers were just as freely available. Not so: their season is brief, and making use of these lovely blossoms requires a nose for advance planning. “There’s a short season in Europe for garlic flowers, for only two months starting around June,” explains Chef Bjoern. “When the season starts I buy all that I can get. I probably buy more than any chef [in Hong Kong].” 新鲜大蒜简直是食材中的帝王，无可挑剔，却有一个致命伤。「新 鲜大蒜一入口，味道真的很重。蒜花的话，既吃得到大蒜的美味， 口气也不至过于吓人，味道比起来更加柔和细腻。」新鲜大蒜终年 都是产季，主厨自然以为蒜花也一样容易取得，但其实不然 ：因其 花期短，若要用蒜花入菜，事先规划可少不得。主厨强调 ： 「欧洲蒜 花季节很短，从六月算起大概两个月而已，所以花季一开始我就会 竭尽所能搜刮市面上所有供货，进的量 ( 在香港 ) 说第二大概没人 敢称第一了吧。」

The instantly recognizable mizuna leaf is one of the hardest working herbs in a gourmet’s kitchen. Botanists believe it’s probably indigenous to China, but after hundreds of years of cultivation in Japan it would be fair to consider it a naturalized Japanese citizen, and its fine serrated edges and deep green color are familiar features in many traditional Japanese dishes.

More recently, the Californian health-food community has promoted the mizuna plant’s iron-rich composition, and it has become a staple of the ubiquitous green smoothie. If the leaves are becoming famous, what does that mean for the mizuna flower? They are an attractive spray of tiny, buttery yellow petals that bloom briefly during high summer. They taste peppery and a tad spicy, like the leaf, but with a softer, less intrusive finish.

They are ideally eaten raw in summery salads, or sprinkled on top of grilled fish. And they'd probably also taste great in a healthy green smoothie.

Almost Famous MIZUNA FLOWER 日本芜菁花

日本芜菁特色鲜明，让人一眼就能认出，算是 一流老饕厨房中使用最频繁的叶菜类之一。根 据植物学家推断，日本芜菁最早源自中国，但 在东瀛栽种数百年后成为货真价实的日本「国 民」 ，细致的锯齿叶缘及深绿色泽，也是许多传 统日式料理搭配的重点特色。日本芜菁富含铁 质，近年来受到加州健康食物界大力推广，同时 随着风靡全球的排毒绿果菜露 (green smoothi​e) 热潮一跃成为明星食材。日本芜菁红得发紫，那 芜菁花可能也离成名不远了吧。芜菁花的花瓣 细小呈奶黄色调，让人忍不住一看再看，但盛 夏时节的花期稍纵即逝。味道像芜菁叶般辛呛 微辣，但后味较为柔顺缓和，加进夏季沙拉生 吃或洒在烤鱼上装饰效果都很好。碰到还是不 敢吃的人，就打杯日本芜菁菜露吧。

84

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

New Bloom BLINQ BLOSSOM

Greenhouse-raised and trademarked by a specialist supplier of exotic, edible plants, BlinQ Blossom most closely resembles the early bud of the cauliflower plant. With its crystalline, icicle-like “bubbles,” it is an intriguing ingredient that defies easy categorization – leaf or blossom? Garnish or salad? “In Germany we have a name for this plant: Eissalat,” says Chef Bjoern. ”The literal translation to English is ‘ice-salad.’ I came across this product by talking to other chefs in an online culinary chat. There was talk about ‘leaves with bubbles’ – I was intrigued so I looked into it more, and now I’ve had it on the menu for three or four months.” The BlinQ Blossom has a plump juicy texture and a salty, fresh flavor, not unlike seaweed, that lends itself well to creamy, fatty dishes like fresh oysters. Of course, in a city such as Hong Kong, newness and novelty drives interest as much as admiration for the taste. “It’s a very special item, and I have customers who come to Whisk especially to try it – they are excited by it because it’s very new, very exotic. But it can take some communication to explain exactly what it is.”

BlinQ 食用花由外国食用蔬菜大厂温室栽植，并作为商标注 册名称，一般印象为白花菜的初苞。 BlinQ 食用花上长满像 冰柱的「泡泡」 ，颗颗晶莹剔透，一般的二分法在它身上可 「在德 不适用 ：叶菜还是花？配菜还是沙拉？ Bjoern 表示 ： ，直翻为英文就是『冰沙拉』 。我 国我们称之为『Eissalat』 是某次参加线上厨师聊天室才听说的，有人谈到这种『叶子 长泡泡』的植物，让我非常好奇，所以就开始调查，到现在 它已经在我的菜单上三四个月了。 」BlinQ 食用花有满满的多 汁口感以及咸味清爽的味道，和海草有点像，搭配生蚝类等 味道绵密丰富的食材恰恰好。像在香港这种求新求变的大城 市，BlinQ 食用花自然引人入胜、仰慕声不绝于耳。「这是 很特别的食材，有客人来餐厅就是专程要吃 BlinQ 食用花， 那种新颖的异国风味让他们兴奋不已，只是要解释 BlinQ 食 用花的由来需要花点时间就是了。 」

Going Mainstream ROCKET FLOWER 火箭花

86

|

TK | the first five years

While lacking the bright showiness of Vananco Leaves, rocket flowers have an understated yet nonetheless appealing charm. If the Vananco is Miss America, the rocket flower is a character actress. With violet veins reaching up to four propeller-like prongs of snowy white, pink or violet petals, the phlox-like rocket flower is at once nutty and peppery, with a bit of spicy bite on the tongue.

Depending on the climate, they generally bloom sometime between April and July. The more familiar one becomes with the taste, the more appealing their complexity becomes when compared with the simple flavor of the leaves. The farmer’s market set have been mixing them raw into salads for years; perhaps now’s the moment for the rocket flower to hit the mainstream.

手头没有舞台效果十足的 Vananco 花， 火箭花也是不错的选择，低调但吸引力 丝毫不减。说 Vananco 花是美国选美皇 后的话，火箭花就是个性女演员。沿着 紫色花脉往上，分岔出形状如螺旋桨的 四片花瓣，或雪白、粉红或呈淡紫色泽。 火箭花貌似夹竹桃，味道尖呛带有坚果 风味，会在舌尖留下一丝辛辣后味。开 花期依天候有所不同，但通常是四月到 七月之间。对火箭花层次繁复的风味越 熟悉，似乎就觉得火箭叶直白的味道越 发平凡无奇了。农民市集中很久之前已 把火箭花加到沙拉中生吃，或许现在也 该是它重回主舞台的时候了。

Confit egg yolk with rocket blossoms, citrus leaves, oxalis and crunchy rice 油渍蛋黄配火箭花丶柑橘叶丶紫叶酢浆草及脆米

the first five years

|

TK |

87

① ② ③ ④ ⑤

year

④

EXPRESSION A CLIENT ONCE DESCRIBED TK as an art magazine that happens to be about food and travel.

As more and more media consumption takes place online, the bar for what readers expect from a print magazine is continually being raised. More than mere information, they want

inspiration , and when readers pick up a copy of TK , we want it to be an experience that’s immersive, tactile, even sensual. The quest to produce an ever-better magazine started with an emphasis on working with the best writers and photographers and designers, and led to a search for the most sophisticated image editing, the finest Japanese art paper, and the most advanced printing presses.

One of the highlights of each issue is the Food and Art column, always integrated with the issue’s theme. In TK26 , Follow the Fish , we collaborated with the estate of Herb Kāne, a Hawaiian artist credited with reviving and celebrating the islands’ cultural traditions, especially those surrounding canoes and fishing.

In TK22, Free Spirits , which was about independent and innovative restaurateurs, we shared the story of Japan’s “modern girls,” or moga , who came to prominence in the 1920s with their Paris frocks, black pumps, lipstick, and contemporary attitudes.

TK, co-organizer of the annual Hong Kong Restaurant Interior Design Awards, features in every issue a column showcasing the region’s best interior designers, whose work has risen dramatically in quality and importance since our launch. One of the most impressive design projects in recent memory is a Hong Kong bar designed by Ashley Sutton called Ophelia, where performers and artwork blend together into what feels like a seamless movie scene. We share with you here

TK24 ’s “Peacocks and Performance Art.” In our fourth year, some of our themes became more abstract and conceptually ambitious. In

TK20 , Seasoned with Song , we explored the complex interplay between music and gastronomy.

Starting with the art of the ancient Greek symposium and its mix of genteel poetry and rowdy drinking games, we then explored the evocative relationship between sound and taste, how tone and pitch have the power to induce distinct flavor profiles and heighten the palate’s sensitivity.

We looked at the kaleidoscopic variety of ways in which music subjectively shapes the dining experience: how it can attract the right customers and encourage them to stay longer and spend more, how it can prod guests to eat faster in order to free up tables, how it can generate a desired atmosphere or create an illusion of privacy.

In the music feature reprised here for our fifth anniversary, we learn how the great opera composer Rossini, a renowned lover of food, inspired the famous chefs of his day to dedicate culinary masterpieces in his honor.

the first five years

|

TK |

89

纵情声食

Singing & Digesting One of Italy’s great composers has been immortalized by both of his great passions.

GIOACHINO ROSSINI claimed to have been moved to

罗西尼 (Gioachino Rossini) 宣称他一生只哭

tears only three times in his life: in utter misery over the

过三次，第一次是十八岁那年发表首部歌剧，

failure of his debut opera at age eighteen, in rapture at the

结果一败涂地 ；第二次是因为聆听小提琴家

playing of violin virtuoso Niccolò Paganini, and in abject

帕格尼尼 (Niccolò Paganini) 的演奏，而狂

despair as his favorite indulgence, turkey stuffed with

喜不已 ；第三次是在船上野餐，不慎把他最

truffles, tumbled overboard during a boating party lunch.

爱的松露烤鸡掉进河里，让他失望透顶。

His appetite for haute cuisine was such that the

身材福态的罗西尼是个懂得享受生活之

portly bon vivant became nearly as well known around

人，他非常爱吃高级料理，出色厨艺和美食

Bologna and Paris as an accomplished home cook and devoted epicure as for his prolific output of operas. The popular aria “Di tanti

•

的歌剧作品《唐克瑞迪》(Tancredi)

palpiti” from his opera Tancredi became more

ILLUSTRATIONS BY

有首著名的咏叹调，名为《我充

affectionately known as l’aria dei risi , the rice

REBEKAH NICHOLS

满激情》(Di Tanti Palpiti)，不过 大家喜欢把它叫做「饭的咏叹调」

sat down in a Venetian inn, ordered risotto, and composed

(l’aria dei risi,)，因为相传，他有天到一家在

the piece in the time it took to cook the dish.

威尼斯的店坐下来点了烩饭，然后就在等待

Master chefs around Europe competed for the great

上菜的空档中写出了这首咏叹调。

man’s patronage, creating new dishes in his honor and

欧洲各地的厉害厨师都抢着邀请罗西尼

keeping tables at their restaurants reserved exclusively

光顾，或为他设计新菜，并在自家餐厅特别

for him. Their high regard was reciprocated by Rossini,

保留一张给他专用的桌子。厨师们的厚爱

who took delight in befriending “i più famosi chef del continente,” the most famous chefs in Europe.

Today, countless dishes “alla Rossini” can be found in cookbooks and on restaurant menus around the world.

|

他丰富的歌剧作品一样出名。他

MAMIE CHEN

aria, because, according to legend, he one day

90

品味在波隆那和巴黎一带，就跟

BY

获得罗西尼的热情回报，他喜欢四处结交 「欧洲最知名的厨师」(i più famosi chef del continente)。 时至今日，世界各地的食谱和餐厅菜单

Some authentically preserve the original recipes, others

可以找到无数以「罗西尼」(alla Rossini) 为

are modern interpretations. Many showcase Rossini’s

名的菜肴，有些保留原始做法，有些以现代

favorite ingredients of Périgord truffles, foie gras, and

手法重新诠释，其中许多都用了罗西尼最爱

Madeira wine, but all of them possess those richly

的食材 ：佩里哥黑松露、鹅肝和马德拉酒，

opulent qualities that characterize the maestro’s tastes in

而它们共同的特色是华丽丰富，这是一代大

food as well as music.

师的美食品味，也是他的音乐特质。

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

FOOD & MUSIC

the first five years

|

TK |

91

Cannelloni alla Rossini 罗西尼面卷

92

|

TK | the first five years

FOOD & MUSIC

“THE STOMACH IS THE CONDUCTOR, who rules the

「胃是指挥，主宰我们的欲望，让这

grand orchestra of our passions and rouses it to

个盛大的乐团动起来， 」罗西尼曾用

action,” Rossini once suggested, drawing a fanciful

这么一个奇特的比喻关联食欲与音

analogy between appetite and music. “The bassoon

乐。 「饥饿感来袭，巴松笛或短笛都

or the piccolo, grumbling its discontent or shrilling its

咕哝着它的不满足，试图尖声嘶喊出

longing, personify the empty stomach for me. The

它的渴望，把饥饿的胃比拟成活生生

stomach replete, on the other hand, is the triangle of

的人。相反地，一旦吃饱了，满足的

enjoyment or the kettledrum of joy… Eating, loving,

胃则像是欢乐的三角铁或喜悦的定音

singing, and digesting are, in truth, the four acts of the

鼓 … 吃、爱、歌唱和消化 , 实为生命

comic opera known as life.”

这出喜歌剧必定上演的四幕。 」

It‘s little wonder that nineteenth century French

难怪十九世纪法国漫画家常会

caricaturists seized upon his second passion and

抓住他爱吃的特点，他们笔下的罗

frequently depicted him, not with an instrument or

西尼往往不拿乐器和乐谱，而是手

sheets of music in hand, but with the silver pastry tube

持银色挤花嘴，把松露泥挤到与他

he used to inject the truffle purée into his namesake

同名的面卷上。

cannelloni.

罗西尼四十出头就宣布不再创

Once he had retired from opera composition at the

作歌剧，并开始纵情美食，经常在

unusually early age of forty, Rossini began indulging his

他位于安坦堤道 (Chaussée d’Antin)

gastronomic inclinations by hosting musical soirées at

的宅邸或巴黎郊外帕西 (Passy) 的

his house in the Chaussée d’Antin or at his villa in Passy

别墅，举办音乐晚会，会中除了演

outside Paris. In addition to performing his own musical

奏自创的音乐作品之外，他还会以

pieces, he sought to impress his friends, particularly

华丽的盛宴让友人惊艳，特别是来

those in the culinary world, with sumptuous feasts that

自美食界的朋友，宴席经常出现他

often featured his latest dishes. Tradition holds that he

精心研发的新菜。一般认为那些以

himself created the famous cannelloni that bears his

他为名的菜肴都是他的创作。这些

name. The original dish, unlike lighter modern versions

菜肴的原始做法都是大量使用松露

stuffed with pork, veal, and chicken, contained a truly

和鹅肝，如今则多改用猪肉，牛肉、

decadent filling of truffles and foie gras.

鸡肉等相对平实的食材。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

93

Tournedos alla Rossini 罗西尼牛排

94

|

TK | the first five years

FOOD & MUSIC

THE STORY OF THE ORIGIN of tournedos alla Rossini

罗西尼牛排的起源众说纷纭，其中一

is fraught with controversy. In one unlikely anecdote,

个似是而非的传闻是，罗西尼在巴黎

Rossini is said to have relentlessly pestered the chef

英国咖啡馆 (Café Anglais) 的厨师帮

preparing his meal at the Café Anglais in Paris until

他准备牛排的时候，一直在旁边烦他，

the man finally expressed his exasperation. Rossini

最后厨师终于发火，罗西尼竟厚脸皮

cheekily replied “et alors, tournez le dos ,” meaning,

地说 ： 「et alors, tournez le dos」，意

“well then, turn your back.”

思是「那好，你转过身去」。

Any one of several renowned chefs – Carême,

好几个有名的厨师，像是卡瑞蒙

Moissons, or Escoffier – might have honored Rossini

(Carême)、马松斯 (Moissons) 或爱斯

with such a dish. But some say that if Carême had

克菲尔 (Escoffier)​​，都可能以罗西尼

created it, he would have taken credit in one of his

之名为这道料理命名。但有人说，如

cookbooks. And although Escoffier probably never

果真是卡瑞蒙发明了这道菜，他会放

cooked for Rossini, he does include a recipe for it

进自己的食谱。虽然爱斯克菲尔可能

in his later cookbook, but without fanfare, merely

从来没为罗西尼做过菜，但他确实把

listing it as number 2380. Many put their money on

这道料理放进他后来出版的食谱，尽

Moissons, chef at La Maison Dorée, who may have

管 没 有 非 常 高 调， 只 是 把 它 列 在 了

created the dish to outdo the famous steak named

第 2380 道。 很 多 人 压 宝 La Maison

for the Vicomte de Chateaubriand that Rossini so

Dorée 的厨师马松斯，他可能为了比

admired.

下罗西尼非常爱吃的夏多布里昂牛排

As the most iconic of the dishes named for the composer, tournedos alla Rossini was often the pièce

( 以夏多布里昂子爵为名 )，而创作了 这道佳肴。

de résistance at haute cuisine dinners of the time.

罗西尼牛排是以这位作曲家为名

A thick steak cut from filet of beef was perfectly

的料理中最具代表性的一道，当时经

roasted and served on croutons sautéed in butter.

常是高级料理晚餐的主菜。厚厚的菲

Topped with foie gras d’oie pan-seared in beurre

力牛排经过完美烘烤，搭配以奶油炒

noissette and adorned with slices of black Périgord

香的面包丁，放上焦黄奶油煎过的鹅

truffles, it was finished with a Madeira and truffle

肝，饰以佩里哥黑松露片，最后淋上

demi-glace.

马德拉酒和松露酱。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

95

Macaroni Soup alla Rossini 罗西尼通心粉汤

96

|

TK | the first five years

FOOD & MUSIC

AN ITALIAN OPERA COMPOSER with an all-consuming

对美食有着无限热情的意大利歌剧作

passion for food and a French chef who dearly loved

曲家罗西尼，和钟爱音乐的法国名厨

music – it was nothing short of poetic destiny that

卡瑞蒙 (Antonin Carême)，这两位不

Gioachino Rossini and Antonin Carême, two leading

同领域的大师有天相遇并成为最要好

masters of their respective professions, should one

的朋友，可说是种戏剧性的安排，卡

day meet and become the best of friends. Carême

瑞 蒙 甚 至 说 罗 西 尼 是 他「 唯 一 的 知

even referred to Rossini as “the only man who ever

音」。

understood me.”

两位大师经常交换彼此的艺术作

They often exchanged tokens of their arts:

品 ：在波隆那，卡瑞蒙给了罗西尼精

Carême sent a game pâté to Rossini in Bologna, and

心制作的肉冻派 (pâté)，罗西尼则以

Rossini composed short songs and arias for the chef

创作短曲和抒情调当作回礼。而卡瑞

in return. But it was Carême who would immortalize

蒙的一项举动使他们的友谊永垂不

their friendship by naming many of his now-famous

朽 ：他以挚友的名字来为几道今日相

dishes, such as his stuffed turkey alla Rossini, after

当著名的料理命名，罗西尼填馅火鸡

the maestro.

即是一例。

Unlike most dishes bearing his name, macaroni

不同于许多以罗西尼为名的料

soup alla Rossini has nary a truffle nor a particle

理，罗西尼通心粉汤里既没有松露，

of foie gras in sight, but it is no less sumptuous,

也没有半点鹅肝，却一点也不失华丽，

especially in its elaborate presentation. Partridge

这道菜的呈现方式更是精致得无可挑

quenelles and Neapolitan macaroni are poached

剔。松鸡肉丸和那不勒斯通心粉被放

in partridge stock and then sautéed with partridge

置在松鸡汤底里烹煮，再与松鸡泥一

purée. Then the quenelles, the macaroni, and

同拌炒。肉丸、通心粉和帕玛森起司

Parmesan cheese are laid in alternating layers in a

接着被一层层叠在淋满通心粉汤及汤

silver tureen and sprinkled with macaroni broth and

料的银色汤盅上。卡瑞蒙在他其中一

stock. In one of his cookbooks, Carême triumphantly

本食谱中写着，当他把这道菜献给好

dedicated the dish to his friend, proclaiming, “This is

友时，他说 ： 「这是一道配得上伟大

a recipe worthy of the great gourmet-musician.”

音乐美食家的料理。」

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

97

BY MAMIE CHEN

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

98

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

Peacocks and Performance Art

“Ophelia was a twenty-million-dollar gamble that gave me

many sleepless nights. The ideas were all in Ashley Sutton’s head, and I didn’t know what it would look like or how it would turn out. But I had utter belief in his ability.“

「 『Ophelia』是场 2,000 万元的豪赌，我常常为此担心到夜不成眠。Ashley 所有的想法都藏在脑子里，对于酒吧的最终模样和形成的风格， 」 我真的一点头绪都没有，但我对他的能力深具信心，也相信『Ophelia 』一定会和他其他作品一样无懈可击。 SANDEEP SEKHRI

↑↑

↑

↑↑

↑

Truffle mushroom arancini with green goddess dressing

“Le Plumage”: Sagatiba Cachaça with blood orange, gold slab syrup, and a housemade schisandra dram

“The Jade Cat”: Iwai Japanese whisky with Baika Ranman umeshu and a housemade bitter green tea liqueur

Chili whole school prawns with Szechuan salt and nam phrik

巴西赛格提芭甘蔗酒佐血橙、Gold Slab Syrup及自家制Schisandra Dram

日本岩井威士忌佐Baika Ranman 梅酒及自家制绿茶酒

炸松露蘑菇炖饭球配以 绿色女神素食酱

四川盐配以泰式辣椒酱炒虾

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

101

H A U N T I N G, LY R I C A L N O T E S from a Chinese erhu and lute weave through the rooms and alcoves of Ophelia, arousing curiosity, stirring the senses, and confirming the notion that this is not simply another new cocktail lounge, but rather an entirely original Hong Kong experience.

As the music unfurls, an ensemble of lithe muses clad in gorgeous silk cheongsams make a measured entrance, sidling slowly into the room with a languid turn of the wrist, a fluttering flick of the fan, a sultry arch of the back, an enigmatic lowering of the gaze. They soon slither off to various locations. One slips to the outdoor area in back to perform sensual acrobatics inside a large birdcage, two more gracefully ascend to and recline on divans suspended from the backbar, three others linger in the main entrance, perched delicately on swings and an ornate armchair. The artists continue to perform as living paintings throughout the evening, subtly interacting with guests and the surroundings.

Sandeep Sekhri, founder and Managing Director of Dining Concepts Ltd., sits at his favorite table in a far back corner, surveying his latest venture. From his vantage point, he’s able to monitor activities at the bar and at the same time catch glimpses into adjoining rooms through tassled archways. He has a perfect view of stunned guests as they enter and first take in the splendor of this one-of-a-kind space conceived by internationally renowned designer Ashley Sutton.

Peacock-themed designs in the intricate metalwork that is a hallmark of a designer who once worked as an iron-ore miner proliferate everywhere.

They include thirty-two copper and steel wall pieces with real feathers,

102

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

走进「Ophelia」，二胡及笛子抒情的乐声穿梭各个包厢 角落，动人心弦的乐曲此起彼落，引发好奇心之余也挑 拨感官。不难发现这里不只是新酒吧，等待探索的更是 难以忘怀的全新体验。 余音绕梁之际，身穿闪耀丝制旗袍、身段轻盈的舞 者莲步轻移、缓缓入场，手腕慢动作翻转、轻拍羽扇， 背部弓出撩人的大角度，眼神低垂，充满神秘感。她们 迅速散开，各据不同角落，其中一人回到门外，在大型鸟 笼内展示各种特技动作，相当引人入胜，另外两位舞者则 优雅地倚在吧台后方延伸出来的长沙发椅，还有三人走到 入口处，躺于秋千和华丽贵妃椅上弄姿摆舞。整晚表演者 的舞动犹如画作般赏心悦目，顺应地和客人交流互动。 「Dining Concepts Ltd.( 饮食概念股份有限公司 )」创办 人暨董事总经理 Sandeep Sekhri 坐在酒吧大后方最爱的角 落里，观察新店内的一举一动。他的位置绝佳，恰好将 吧台周边尽收眼底，同时也可瞥见以流苏拱型装饰连结 的不同包厢。Sandeep 相当享受看到客人进场后的惊 艳神情，此一独一无二的华美空间正出自国际知名设 计师 Ashley Sutton 之手。 以孔雀为题，繁复的金属装潢正是设计师的标 记，过去他曾是走访世界各地的铁矿工。孔雀主题 酒吧室内装潢包括 32 件以真羽毛，铜及钢制成的壁面 装饰，柔软眼点外型的铜饰天花板，吧台栏边模拟孔雀 腿雕刻铸造，相同外栏加上雷射切割金属羽毛片制成拱门。

除了以金属为主轴，相互映衬的也包括 60 万片人手绘 copper and velvet eyespot-shaped ceiling panels, cut and rewelded bar 画的孔雀毛眼纹图案磁砖，搭配蓝绿及紫红色泽的华美 rails that simulate scaled legs, and archways of the same rails with laser丝绒饰品，柔和整体色调，各展其美。 Ashley 以孔雀 cut sheet-metal feathers. The abundance of metal is complemented by six 为主轴发想，精选特定元素聚焦、放大处理，以丰富 hundred thousand ceramic tiles hand painted with iridescent eyespots and is 满溢、夸张的手法重复特定元素，让客人沉浸在他的 softened by sumptuous velvet furnishings in teal and plum. With the overrid幻想世界当中。 ing peacock theme in mind, Sutton’s genius zooms in and magnifies a select few elements, purposefully repeating them over and over in an excessive, Sandeep 是在赴曼谷参加 Ashley 另一时尚鸡尾酒 吧力作「Maggie Choo’s」开幕时和设计师初次相遇，并 over-the-top presentation that fully immerses guests in the world he has 成为两人合作的开端。 Sandeep 兴奋表示 ： 「看到概念具 envisioned. 体成形，结合聚会及观赏表演两大功能，再搭配绝妙的音乐 “It is amazing how the whole concept comes together both as a 及无可挑剔的美食和饮料，真的让人兴奋不已。『Ophelia』是 venue and as a performance, with great music and excellent food and 场 2,000 万元的豪赌，我常常为此担心到夜不成眠。Ashley 所 drink,” says Sekhri, who first met Sutton in Bangkok at the opening of 有的想法都藏在脑子里，对于酒吧的最终模样和形成的风格， Maggie Choo’s, another of the designer’s extraordinary cocktail lounges. 我真的一点头绪都没有，但我对他的能力深具信心，也相信 “Ophelia was a twenty-million-dollar gamble that gave me many sleepless 『Ophelia 』一定会和他其他作品一样无懈可击。」 nights. The ideas were all in Ashley Sutton’s head, and I didn’t know what it would look like or how it would turn out. But I had utter belief in his ability, Sandeep 经营超过 50 家餐厅，随着「Ophelia」开 幕 首 次 进 军 夜 店 市 场， 可 说 是 集 团 迈 向 转 型 的 一 大 and I knew it would be exceptional, as all his venues are.” 里程碑，紧接着还有两家 Ashley 设计的酒吧「Iron As Sekhri’s first foray into a nightlife venue after more than fifty restaurants, the opening of Ophelia marks a defining moment for Dining Concepts, which is set to Fairies」 及「J. Boroski」 将 于 今 年 夏 天 开 张。 「这是深思熟虑后踏出的一步，不只 open two more Sutton-designed bars, Iron Fairies and J. Boroski, this summer. “It’s Sandeep 强调 ： 限于以餐饮相关的概念发挥，我们想在市场引进完 a very intentional move,” says Sekhri. “There are only so many food-related con全不同的体验。确实很多地方都把设计及鸡尾酒玩出 cepts that you can do, and we wanted to bring something completely different 新的花样，但我保证『Ophelia』在香港绝对是独一 to the market. A lot of places are taking design and cocktails to a new level, 无二。」 but Ophelia is truly the only lounge of its kind in Hong Kong.”

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

103

Braised beetroot with hazelnut-infused ricotta, goat cheese, walnuts, honey, mint, and edible flowers 红菜头配以山羊奶酪，核桃，蜂蜜和薄荷

“Music is central to the project. We divide the evening into two sessions. The opening resident DJ plays

a more chill first set to balance the mood for aperitifs.

Then a guest DJ raises the beat in the second set.” 「音乐是『Ophelia』不可或缺的一大亮点。夜间分成两部分，开场先由驻店DJ带来分贝量较低 的柔和音乐，可在享用餐前酒欣赏。下半场则由客座DJ接力，进入劲歌舞曲时间。」 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R S T E FA N O C O L O M B O

↑ Guest DJ Roger De Leon and resident DJ Claire Luke THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

105

“We place a huge emphasis on performance at Ophelia.

The women are beautiful and sensual and even provocative. Rather than dance, they perform in character with very subtle movements.

This is something completely different than anything Hong Kong has ever seen.

The whole idea is to come for an experience.” 「『Ophelia』的表演是我们相当重视的一环，款款 出场的舞者都很漂亮、性感，甚至可说是妖艳迷 人。除了舞蹈之外，她们的表演动作细腻，迷离有 特色，和香港市面上可以看到的表演完全不同，让 客人拥有惊艳的『体验』正是店里灵魂之所在。」 SANDEEP SEKHRI

“Cheongasm”: tequila reposado with homemade pomegranate cordial and La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Rouge 龙舌兰、自家制石榴甜酒、皇家甜苦艾酒

106

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

107

① ② ③ ④ ⑤

year

⑤

EXPANSION WHEN WE LAUNCHED TK , our focus was on the Pearl River Delta, and for these past five years,

the tagline on our cover spine has reflected that emphasis. As months have stretched into years, there’s been a growing interest in national culinary branding, with respect to the food products of countries as well as to their recognition as culinary destinations.

In year five, TK29 became our most extensive region-themed issue yet. Nordic Odyssey introduced omega-3 pork, award-winning Finnish gin, and Norwegian skrei Arctic cod to an Asian audience. As we look ahead, we’ve penciled in themed issues for the United Kingdom, Mexico, Myanmar, Turkey, Spain, and Peru. And in view of this expanded focus, we’ve universalized our tagline: “Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the world’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs, and most delicious food.”

Independence is a distinctive hallmark of TK . In our third year, the magazine separated from our original partner, Ignite Media Group, and the publication is now one of only a few in the region that is completely independently owned and operated, with no hovering corporate parent or conglomerate. This allows us to produce journalism the old-fashioned way: we send our own writers and photographers to create, on the ground, almost every story from scratch.

A chef friend recently mentioned that he believes TK is something Hong Kong and Macau can be proud of. When he travels overseas, he said, he always takes several copies to give away.

It was an encouraging comment, and true in the sense that the creation of each issue is such a collaborative effort.

TK is, of course, the product of our editorial team – evocative images from Director of Photography David Hartung, inspiring design by Art Director Alicia Beebe, and magical coordination

by Managing Editor Joey Cheang – but it also represents the collective contribution of the entire F+B community. Without the talents of world-class chefs, there would be no stunning TK covers; without the vision of restaurateurs, there would be no new concepts to celebrate; without innovative farmers and dedicated fishermen, there would be no ingredient-driven menus.

During our journey, there have been some dark moments: the printer hadn’t been paid, mobile phones were cut, the landlord was calling for the rent. The remarkable thing is that, despite the challenges, everyone kept going and we always found a way forward.

Where will TK be in another five years? How will it evolve?

The magazine will reassert a strong digital presence; it will expand regional distribution across Greater China to Shanghai, Singapore, Taiwan; it will organize more and more events. But beyond growth and success, more than profit or acclaim, perhaps what’s most worth celebrating is the process, the journey of creating each issue and the joy of sharing it.

We look forward to sharing the journey of our next five years with you.

the first five years

|

TK |

109

110

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

无「屿」伦比

An Island Like No Other Photographer David Hartung and writer Mark Hammons experience a life without limits on the Fijian island of Laucala.

112

|

TK | the first five years

The buoyant Fiji spirit makes its

first appearance even before visitors arrive at the customs counter in Nadi International Airport. Three musicians clad in floral shirts and garlands of frangipane appear unexpectedly in a foyer just ahead of immigration, singing an infectious traditional Fiji song of welcome, “Bula Maleya”:

Drums of the islands, you're beating in my heart, You're with me no matter where I roam.

If ever I wander, if ever we're apart, I know that you will lead me home.

There’s a brief moment of befuddlement as travel-weary visitors come upon the surreal scene: How did this boisterous band get into the airport? Is security going to show up and scuttle them away? But the guitarists don’t look the least bit worried, and just continue on singing and swaying and smiling.

Fiji has been called the happiest place on earth, and after landing in Nadi, a fortunate few will board a six-seat King Air B200 to whisk them to the center of the happiness sun, a private island with an almost mythical reputation – Laucala.

Modern Laucala is the vision of Dietrich Mateschitz, founder of Red Bull. After buying the island in 2003, he spent the next five years redeveloping it from the ground up with the goal – now fully realized – of creating one of the world’s most celebrated and exclusive island resorts.

The spectacular final result serves first and foremost as personal retreat for Mateschitz, who often travels to Laucala in August with friends. His efforts to elevate the island’s operations are imbued with the same combination of dogged confidence that kept him going when early market research panned the taste of his signature caffeinated creation. He ignored his skeptics to forge on with Red Bull, and in 2015 global sales topped USD6.6 billion.

With more than three hundred and fifty on staff, Laucala has only twenty-five villas and a maximum occupancy of eighty, although the numbers are often far fewer.

The villas are scattered across the north coast of the island, each in its own secluded locale and named after a natural element the first five years

|

TK |

113

that identifies its surrounding environment, such as Nuku (sand), Ua (tides), Bebe (butterflies), Vonu (turtles), Veikau ( jungle), and Vitia (seagrass).

L a u c a l a i s n’t fo r eve r yo n e. O n e bedroom villas start at USD 6,000 a night, and rates escalate rapidly to USD44,000 for the fabulous Hilltop Estate. Guests range from heads of state to Hollywood celebrities to Saudi royalty, but they all come for the same rare combination of deep privacy and boundless freedom. Days can go by without interacting with another guest, and the experience of living on the island is almost completely absent of practical encumbrances.

When hungry, a guest needn’t wonder about which restaurant may be open or whether a table might be available: all of the restaurants and bars are always open and the staff are waiting with a smile for your arrival, whether it is tonight, tomorrow morning, or next week. When finished, there is no need to sign a bill – guests simply walk out and board their private golf buggy before coasting off to their next destination.

Laucala's five bars and restaurants are all under the oversight of Executive Chef Anthony Healy. Healy perfected his skills in the fine dining environments of Paris and London but is now immersed in the island’s ethos of sustainability. He leads his team as they go free diving for lobsters, harvest local fish species with a speargun, incubate their own eggs for three breeds of chicken, and hand-pollinate an orchard of fifty vanilla vines with a toothpick. Guests always ask about why the toothpicks are needed – it turns out that the European bees on the island are too fat to naturally pollinate the vanilla flowers. The island's farm has three

the first five years

|

TK |

115

View of Seagrass Bay from Rock Lounge

116

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

117

← The Plantation House → Traditional Fijian Musicians 斐济传统音乐家 →→ Executive Chef Anthony Healy ↘ Golf Course Supervisor Richard Valentine ↘↘ Cultural Manager Ratu Meli

hydroponic greenhouses, two for herbs and lettuce, one for tomatoes and capsicum. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and the greenhouses help to strengthen plants before they are planted outside to face the tropical elements.

At the Plantation House, an elegant colonial-style mansion, Healy creates a spectacular nine-course degustation menu that changes – and dazzles – every evening. But his touch also shines through in simple details like the richness of the morning croissants and the restrained seasoning of the line-caught fish.

Healy’s team also harnesses Laucala’s natural bounty to make homemade jams, honey, and dips, making the most of whatever is freshest that day. “I can literally wake up in the morning here and say, ‘I think I’ll make this today,’” he says. “There’s been no other place in the world where I could say, we have this and so let’s make that . Zucchini flowers have a very short harvest window, but when they recently came into season I created a lobster mousse in zucchini flower petals, steaming it lightly before serving it with sauce vierge using our vine ripened tomatoes.

Baby cucumbers were also ripe, and so I pickled and

118

|

TK | the first five years

chargrilled them until very black, and then served them with cured fish and frozen buttermilk. Light, refreshing dishes are perfect for this climate.”

Thai food aficionados make a regular trek to Seagrass, which is nested on a sloping, jungle-enclosed peninsula and run by chef Piak Sussadeewong, formerly of the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. The dramatic setting of Beach Bar makes it perfect for a casual lunch by the sand with dishes like kokoda , a traditional raw fish salad marinated with lemon, chili, and coconut, while the Rock Lounge offers cocktails using local Fiji rum and perfect views of Seagrass Bay. Once a week a traditional communal dinner is held inside the cultural village, offering Laucala guests a rare opportunity to rub elbows with their neighbors.

Starting early in the afternoon, Fiji cooks begin heating large rocks over a fire, which are then placed inside a deep earthen oven called a love . Banana stumps and leaves are first laid on top as a buffer, followed by the food and then more leaves on top to preserve the moisture. If pigs or goats are being cooked, stones are also placed inside.

Before the communal dinner is served, guests

Editor‘s note: Chef Anthony Healy’s current position is Executive Chef, Kokomo Private Island.

gather for something called a kava ceremony. Kava, also called yaqona in Fiji, is a cousin of the pepper plant with mild narcotic properties, and it has long been a central element of Fijian culture. The village chief sits in the front of the room and mixes the kava with water to create that day’s blend.

When presented with the bowl, participants clap their hands once and say “bula ,” a word rich in meaning that can convey a sentiment of greeting, as well as of love, before drinking. The kava numbs the mouth and calms

120

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

the spirit, and as locals drink and sing hour after hour, they become gradually ever more gentle and serene.

The remoteness of its geography and economics might conspire to give Laucala a sense of isolation, but this feeling is overcome by the island’s approachable design that takes nature itself as inspiration.

Rather than ostentatious or flamboyant, the defining aesthetic is relaxed and organic, with natural materials and flowing shapes. Roads wind across the island, not in

geometrical straight lines, but in long, gentle arcs. Everyday objects are constructed with an unusual generosity: table lamps are crafted from twisted driftwood, enormous bathtubs are carved from a single stone, and expansive bathroom vanities are cut from a single tree.

Villa interiors mirror the environment around them, with upholstery patterned after the shapes of leaves and ferns, rugs that encompass the endless shades of the ocean’s blue, and giant jellyfish chandeliers that swim in the soft tropical breezes.

Mateschitz isn't the first business magnate to fall under Laucala’s spell. Malcolm Forbes was the world’s richest man when he bought the island in 1972, and he loved Laucala so much that he had his ashes buried in a small cemetery on a hill that is now surrounded by a tidy mango grove next to the golf course’s tenth hole. His tombstone reads, “When alive, he lived,” and visitors to Laucala all leave knowing that on these rare days surrounded by sand and sun and smiles, they too have lived.

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

121

初抵斐济楠迪国际机场， 还没过海关就能感受到兴致 浓烈的当地精神，三位身着花衬衫、头戴花

的私人休憩天堂，常于 8 月呼朋引伴在洛卡

周，从无例外。用餐完毕，客人也不必担心

环的乐手现身入境审查前大厅，以斐济传统

拉度过愉快时光。他对事执着，自信不疑，

签付账单，只待退席并坐上私人高尔夫车前

迎宾曲「Bula Maleya」带动气氛 ：

即使初期市场调查显示，招牌提神饮料红牛

往下一目的地就好。

的味道被批的一文不值，他仍坚持不懈、大

洛卡拉现有的五家酒吧和餐馆皆由行政

力推动，让红牛在 2015 年全球销售创下 66

主厨 Anthony Healy 掌管，他曾于巴黎及伦

走到何处，有你作伴，

亿美元的亮眼纪录。Dietrich 也拿出同样的精

敦等地磨练厨艺，现在则致力把岛屿追求可

或迷失或分散，

神，让洛卡岛的经营运作全面升级。

持续发展的精神融合在菜色之中。他的团队

岛屿之鼓，敲击我心，

我知道你终将带我回家。

洛卡拉现有 25 栋度假村，超过 350 名员

可以潜水抓龙虾、渔枪猎捕鱼种、畜养三种

工，但入住率最高仅为八成。Villa 分散于岛

鸡只孵化特有的鸡蛋，甚或在园中亲手用牙

屿北岸，各自独立，以当地动植物或自然景观

签 替 50 株 香 草 授 粉 ；要 用 到 牙 签， 是 因 岛

团如何进到机场？警卫会否架走他们？吉他

命名， 如 Nuku ( 沙 )、 Ua ( 潮汐 )、 Bebe ( 蝴蝶 )、

上的欧洲种蜜蜂太胖，无法挤进花中吸花粉。

手脸上却不见慌张，继续随音乐摆动、微笑。

Vonu ( 海龟 )、Veikau ( 丛林 ) 及 Vitia ( 海草 )。

农地有三间水栽温室，两间专门培植草本植

游客舟车劳顿，看此画面难免疑惑 ：乐

斐济有全球最快乐的地方美称，在楠迪

然而洛卡拉的度假村要价不菲，一房的

下机后，几位令人艳羡的宾客可转搭 King Air

度假村每晚 6,000 美元起跳。若是坐拥美景

种植过程不使用任何杀虫剂或农药，植株于

B200 六人座私人飞机，直往快乐中心点－那

的山顶房一晚要价高达 44,000 美元。入住的

温室培育到一定成熟阶段才移种在自然环境

充满神秘色彩的私人岛屿洛卡拉而去。

客人从国家领袖、好莱坞名流到沙乌地皇室

下继续生长。

洛卡拉现今可说是红牛能量饮料集团 创 办 人 Dietrich Mateschitz 的 心 血 结 晶。 自

成员不等，来此就是希望享有极度隐私同时 能无拘无束的自由生活。

物及莴苣，另一间则生产番茄及辣椒属植物。

洛卡拉的顶级餐厅「The Plantation」提 供 Anthony 精心打造的九道菜套餐，菜色每

2003 年买下这座岛屿后，他花了 5 年时间打

若是饿了无须担心餐厅是否开门，因所

造一切，现已名列全球最专尚独家的顶级度

有餐厅及酒吧皆 24 小时无休，员工总面带笑

即便在简单的食物中也展露无遗，像早餐的

假岛之一。世外桃源般的度假村有如 Dietrich

容等待客人上门。 不论是当晚 、明早或是下

牛角面包，或海滩酒吧午餐所用的海钓鱼。

晚不同， 多元丰富令人心醉。主厨精湛的厨艺，

the first five years

|

TK |

123

This dish brings together two of the island’s next-door neighbors: farm and sea. “We very gently flatten out the breast of our free-range chicken,” explains Healy, “and then make a mousse from diver-caught crayfish, with large pieces of the tail meat folded in. The breast is wrapped around the crayfish and the whole thing is wrapped in chicken skin.”

Healy cooks the roll very lightly in a water bath by the sous vide method until almost done, then finishes it off in extremely hot oil for twenty seconds to blister and crisp the skin. “We serve this with a cauliflower and vanilla purée—both ingredients are grown on Laucala—and finish it with a tasty rich sauce of crayfish bisque reduced with chicken jus.” 此料理结合岛上两种最常见的景观：农场与海 洋。 Anthony解释道：「我们轻轻地将放牧 鸡胸肉摊平，再用潜水伕捕到的小龙虾制成慕 斯，里头包着大块的尾端肉。鸡胸肉包覆住龙虾 后，整个再用鸡皮包起来。」他用真空低温烹 调法将这道鸡肉龙虾卷极度小心地浸在水中直 到几乎熟透，然后在极高温热油里放置20秒， 让鸡皮起泡变脆。「我们摆盘时会搭配花椰菜 和香草酱，两种食材都产自洛卡拉，最后用鸡 汁浓缩龙虾浓汤而成的浓郁风味酱作结。」

124

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

125

A meticulously tempered Valrhona chocolate sphere is painted with chocolate to replicate a coconut shell. Inside is layered 64 percent Manjari chocolate mousse, vanilla crémeux, coconut marshmallow, freeze-dried coconut, and coconut sorbet. The confection is finished with light Fijian coconut rum and pineapple coulis. 法芙娜巧克力球经过细致调温，涂 上巧克力制成椰壳的外型，里面 是64%孟加里巧克力慕斯、香草 奶油、椰子棉花糖、冷冻椰子乾 和椰子雪酪，斐济椰子兰姆和凤 梨汁则是这道甜点最后的亮点。

Six local Fijian rums, fresh pineapple juice, and fresh passion fruit are served iced in a poco grande glass with a whimsically convoluted fruit garnish. 六种斐济当地的朗姆酒，鲜菠萝汁 和新鲜百香果混和装在波可酒杯 中，伴以奇特的螺旋状水果装饰。

”We essentially start at the farm with our very-well-looked-after cattle,” says Healy. “Using a Limousine steer about thirty months of age, we make a very flavorful consommé by immersing the roasted bones in Laucala Island water from our own artesian spring.” The consommé sets into a sheet of workable gel, and the aged beef fillet is made into a tartare with shallots, capers, black pepper, spices, and fresh herbs.

The consommé sheet is then rolled around the tartare. To complete the dish, a gel is made with fresh egg yolks from the restaurant’s farm cooked at 64.5°C and blended with chardonnay vinegar. The tartare is accompanied by crisps of slowcooked beef tendons set in a terrine of suet, then shaved and fried.

Anthony说：「菜式重点从农场备 受悉心照料的牛只开始。我们使用 约30个月大的利木赞小阉牛，将炙 烤过的牛骨浸泡在洛卡拉岛自流温 泉水中，制作成味道浓郁的法式清 汤。」这道清汤凝固后呈现成胶状。 熟成牛肉片佐红葱头、酸豆、黑胡 椒、辛香料和新鲜药草制成塔塔， 再用清汤片将塔塔卷包覆。菜式的 最后一道工序，是用64.5°C的温度将 餐厅农场自产的新鲜蛋黄烹制成凝 胶状，然后与夏多内白酒醋混合。 佐塔塔的是以慢煮牛腱为馅的牛脂 冻派，切成片状后油炸的脆片。

“It’s a showpiece made from ice,” says Healy. “Each one is handmade and no two are ever the same. We serve it in the darkened restaurant with a light glowing in the middle, and inside is sorbet made with basil picked straight from our herb garden moments before use. ” Anthony说道：「这个精美成品是用冰做的，每一个都 是纯手工制，没有任两个是一模一样。我们会在幽暗 的餐厅里端上这道菜式，冰中心点着烛光，里面是 罗勒雪酪，由刚从药草园里现摘下来的新鲜罗勒 叶制作。」

A luscious and bracing dessert cocktail is made with coffee rum and white chocolate rum shaken together with local homemade vanilla ice cream and topped with Laucala coffee beans. 浓厚的鸡尾酒甜点由咖啡朗姆酒和混以当地自制香草冰淇淋一 起摇制的白巧克力朗姆酒制成，最上放以洛卡拉咖啡豆。

For this starter using all local ingredients, Chef Healy takes line caught coral trout and marinates it with mandarin oil, lime zest, fennel pollen and finishes it with very young nasturtium, leaves and petals. It's then placed inside a slice of watermelon radish and served in the sashimi tweezers. 这道前菜全是采用当地食材制成，主厨Anthony 把现钓石斑鱼 用上橘子油，青柠皮，茴香粉腌制，最后以金莲花，细叶和花 瓣作润饰。外层包以心内美萝卜片，以生鱼片镊子夹起享用。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

127

128

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

洛卡拉岛上作物丰富，主厨也物尽其用 制作成果酱、蜂蜜及沾酱。他形容 ： 「一早起 床我会说，今天我想做这个菜。但有时会即 兴地说『既然有这个，就来做那道菜吧』 ，别 无二处。 」 「西葫芦花收获期极短，恰逢当季我 便制作了龙虾慕斯菜式搭配西葫芦花瓣，先 轻蒸再浇上用当地熟藤蕃茄制成的酱汁。小 黄瓜也已熟成，经腌制后将其炭烤至深黑色， 搭配腌鱼和冷冻酪乳享用。洛卡拉的天气选 择这样清鲜香醇的料理真是再适合不过了。 」 「Seagrass」坐落在与世隔绝丛林半岛的 斜 坡 上， 由 主 厨 Piak Sussadeewong 主 理， 他曾工作于曼谷文华东方酒店。泰式料理迷 为了亲尝美食，不惜跋涉一番。坐拥得天独 厚的位置，宾客可在沙岸边的「Beach Bar」 享用惬意午餐，品尝特色菜，如 kokoda，一 道经柠檬、红辣椒和新鲜椰肉腌制的传统生 鱼片沙拉菜色。而「Rock Lounge」则供应各 种特式鸡尾酒，全由斐济当地的朗姆酒特调 而成，味道如同 Seagrass 海湾的无敌景致一 般诱人。 传统的共膳晚餐于岛上文化村举行，是 客人能和邻居交流的难得机会。下午尚早， 斐济厨师们开始把大石头放火里烤，过火后 放进深地炉。炉上铺以香蕉干及蕉叶作为缓 冲，放上食物后叠上更多叶子以保留湿气不 流失。烹制野猪或山羊时，热石则直接放在 畜体中。 晚 餐 上 桌 前， 客 人 会 参 加 kava 仪 式。 kava 为椒类植物近亲，带有轻微麻醉成分， 在斐济文化中有不可取代的地位。村长坐在 厅内最前方，将 kava 与水混和，供当日饮用。 饮料上桌时，所有成员会拍手喊一声 bula， 表达大家的问候和爱等情感。kava 入口后嘴 会发麻，心灵逐渐平静。当地人把酒言欢、 开心唱歌，随着时间渐晚，渐复平静。 尽管地理及经济环境均远离现代文明， 让洛卡拉有种遗世独立之感，但一看到以当 地自然景观为灵感的各式设计，却又让人倍 感亲切，离群索居的感觉瞬间消弭。 度假村的设计以让人放松的有机自然元

Red Ginger

素为主，使用各种波浪形状和天然材料。岛 上的路一眼望去是长而顺的弧型，日常物件 也不容小觑 ：桌灯由漂流木雕刻而成、单颗

母吊灯则在热带微风中悠游轻拂。Mateschitz

旁是芒果园，座落于岛上高尔夫球场第十洞

巨石凿成大型浴缸，而浴室里的梳妆台则全

并非第一位拜倒于洛卡拉美景的商业大亨。

旁边。他的墓志铭写到 ： 「人生追求的是真正

由一棵树刻制做成。度假村的室内装潢以自

Malcolm Forbes 在 1972 年买下洛卡拉时名列

的活著。 」相信所有造访过洛卡拉的游客，在

然美景打造，家饰上有树叶及蕨类造型，地

全球富豪排行榜首位。他深爱洛卡拉，甚至

阳光和笑容的陪伴下度过如此美好时光，也

毯宛如围成一望无际的蓝色海洋，巨大的水

骨灰也长埋于岛上山丘的小型墓园，现在一

一定觉得人生无憾，夫复何求。 the first five years

|

TK |

129

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Restaurant Riches Like Macau itself, Melco Resorts & Entertainment possesses an embarrassment of restaurant riches. Where to begin?

Of the myriad dining choices available at Melco’s trio of luxury properties, City of Dreams, Studio City, and Altira, three from each have been selected to be featured here. Each is distinctive in its culinary approach, many are Michelin-starred, and all belong on a list labeled “must dine at in Macau.”

植根澳门的新濠博亚娱乐正如这 座小城一样，拥有丰富多样的餐 饮选择。不知道从哪儿开始？

接下来将介绍新濠博亚娱乐旗下的新濠天地，新濠

FORBES CONRAD

影汇和新濠锋的多间精选顶级食府，每一间都有着 独树一帜的厨艺风格，其中多间更获米其林星级肯 定，绝对是到访澳门不容错过的世界级餐飨体验。 the first five years

|

TK |

131

CITY OF DREAMS | JADE DRAGON

誉珑轩再添星光

star power

Director of Culinary Operations (Chinese Cuisine) Tam Kwok Fung 中菜厨艺总监谭国锋

LED BY TAM KWOK FUNG, the talented Director of Culinary Operations, Jade Dragon has raised Macau’s culinary bar another sizable notch. And complementing its stellar food are interiors that just as definitely have something to say. The spaces, divided into zones representing the cardinal points of north, south, east, west, and center, are designed to reflect the seasons and their changing colors, based on the principles of the I Ching. Sophisticated appointments, furnishings, and original works by noted Chinese artists reveal a focused attention to detail that creates a different and distinctive ambience in each of the rooms.

Service is perennially of the highest standard, with custom amenities a signature of the restaurant. VIP diners, for instance, may enjoy the ultimate in privacy by ascending in a dedicated elevator from the car park to the level of the exclusive VIP room.

One of Jade Dragon’s trendier touches, unusual for a Chinese restaurant, is its open kitchen. Diners are encouraged to observe

132

|

TK | the first five years

the versatile skills of the team of expert chefs in action.

The matter of plating has been meticulously considered, then boldly carried out on a curated range of serving ware. “Every dish is presented in its own contemporary style on fine bone China or traditional clay ware,” explains Chef Tam. “The designs are meant to stimulate the senses and heighten the experience of each dish.”

Just as intense as the visual impact are the flavors, the result of Chef Tam’s unwavering insistence on the very best organic, free-range, and sustainable products. “Our aim,” he says, “is to shine a spotlight on authentic Cantonese cuisine prepared with precision and flair by a skilled team using only top-tier seasonal ingredients. Everything must be of premium quality.”

The chef, who has grown accustomed to serving world leaders and royalty, constantly strives to exceed the expectations of his guests. Drawing inspiration from over thirty years’ experience, he is continually

introducing to the menu new variations on Cantonese specialties as well as his own groundbreaking creations, all of which are in studied harmony with the peak produce of the season.

A must-try is his Chilled Cherry Tomatoes Marinated with Avocado Oil and Wine Jelly. The dish is impressively served on a plate with handles in the form of smoking dragons and features vibrant whole fruit shimmering on a bed of sweet/tart gel. It makes an unusual starter or a refreshing contrast after a rich course.

The chef ’s Wok-Fried Wild-Catch Macau Sole Fillet and Deep-Fried Bone exemplifies the use of the very best natural products to create the kind of contemporary Cantonese cuisine that Jade Dragon is known for. The dish is dramatically presented to show off the wide range of the team’s technical skills as well as the prime quality of the local catch.

The delicate fish is cooked in a number of ways, including steamed with aged mandarin peel and soy sauce and seared with shallot and ginger sauce.

Lychee Wood Roasted Peking Goose with Black Caviar is a dish destined for stardom.

The lychee fuel of the special oven imparts a sweet, smoky taste to the flesh. Perfectly roasted until the skin crisps, the goose is carved tableside and plated with an indulgent serving of caviar, elevating a humble fowl to luxury status. Always a big hit with guests is the Lychee Wood Smoked FreeRange Chicken with Truffle. The complex, pungent flavors of in-season truffles partner particularly well with the tangy, succulent smokiness of marinated chicken.

“My goal,” says Chef Tam, “is that in every dish I will succeed in demonstrating a deep understanding of the inner characteristics of our superior produce, and that through the classic techniques of Chinese cuisine I will be able to express them to their utmost. I want to create dishes that not only promote the body’s balance and health and longevity, but that are also a joy to eat.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Jade Dragon’s innovative Cantonese cuisine has won the restaurant at City of Dreams two Michelin stars.

Tea Master Shirley Su 侍茶师苏淇

CITY OF DREAMS | JADE DRAGON

Lychee Wood Roasted ”Peking“ Goose with Black Caviar

Wok-Fried Wild-Catch Macau Sole Fillet and Deep-Fried Bone

黑鱼籽配片皮鹅

野生骨香澳门龙利

Lychee Wood Smoked Free Range Chicken with Truffle

由世界顶尖名厨、亦是新濠天地厨艺总监的 谭国锋领军的「誉珑轩」 ，再度将澳门的料 理水平提高至崭新层次。而与佳肴相得益彰 的亮点是其瑰丽堂皇的内部装潢。餐厅以 东、南、西、北、中心五行方位划分成五区， 按照《易经》原则以合适的季节及颜色变换 来设计。繁复的陈设、细腻的装潢，并摆饰 知名中国艺术家精致巧妙的原创作品，让每 间厢房皆營造出截然不同的主调氛围。 「誉珑轩」的顶级服务质量多年如一， 以客为尊的设施更是餐厅的最高理念，例

134

|

TK | the first five years

如贵宾可从停车场搭乘专属升降机直达贵 宾房，保有完全隐私。 另一新潮且中式餐厅不常见的设计是 开放式厨房，让宾客有机会一睹巧手名厨 出神入化的料理技艺。 在这里，摆盘更是经过精雕细琢，才 敢大胆地呈现在各式精心安排的餐具上。 谭总厨表示 ： 「每道摆设在精致骨瓷或传统 陶器上的料理，都有自己独一无二的当代 风格。设计摆盘的旨在刺激感官，提升用 餐体验。」

「誉珑轩」的菜式除了带给客人出众的 视觉享受，味觉的刺激同样浓烈。谭总厨坚 持只采用最新鲜的食材，必须是有机、天然 放牧和具可持续性的农产品。他说 ： 「我们 的目标是经由专业厨师之手，将顶级当令食 材以绝对精准、原创的方式，烹制出最正宗 的粤菜。一丝一毫都必须是上上之选。 」 谭总厨拥有多年款待各国领袖与皇室 的经验，至今仍不断演绎出超越宾客期待 的表现。凭借着源于三十多年经验的灵感，

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

果木烧松露走地鸡

Chilled Cherry Tomato Marinated with Avocado Oil and Wine Jelly 冰梅温室小番茄

他持续为粤菜创造新变化，更经常发表自 己的原创之作，在在都是完美融合当令上 乘食材的最佳典范。 冰梅温室小番茄就是绝对值得一尝的 力作。两条龙型手把正在器皿一左一右地 吞云吐雾，底部一层酸酸甜甜的果 凍 上， 一颗颗生机盎然的蕃茄正闪闪发着光。这 是道别出心裁的前菜 , 清新的口感唤醒味 觉，为接下来的佳肴作美妙的开端。 而谭总厨的野生骨香澳门龙利则是使

用最上乘的天然食材，炮制出「誉珑轩」 最名闻遐迩的当代粤菜典范。华丽的摆设 充分彰显了名厨炉火纯青的十八般武艺以 及粤菜的精髓。鲜嫩的鱼肉搭配老陈皮和 酱油蒸煮，用葱及姜蓉烧烤等多种手法烹 调，满足宾客挑剔的味蕾。 黑鱼籽配片皮鹅是道一推出就注定佳 评如潮的菜式。特制的荔枝木烧烤砖炉制 作出入口带有浓郁果木烟熏香气的广东烧 鹅，完美地烤至表皮酥脆后，在宾客桌边

现场片鹅，再与至尊奢华的鱼子酱一同摆 盘，为原本平凡无奇的鹅肉增添一丝贵气。 另一道饕客们赞誉不已的料理是果木烧松 露走地鸡，时令松露繁复辛辣的口感尤其 搭配腌渍鸡肉强烈多汁的熏香。 「我希望在每道料理中成功地展现出我 对于上乘食材各种特色的深入了解，并且 透过中菜的传统技艺，将这些特点表现到 极致。我想创作出的料理不仅保健养生， 还要让人吃得愉悦。」谭总厨如是说。 the first five years

|

TK |

135

经典戏「法」

french drama The Tasting Room’s new chef gives the great culinary classics of France a starring role.

CITY OF DREAMS | THE TASTING ROOM

Poached Brittany Lobster, Watermelon and Yuzu Vinaigrette

FORBES CONRAD (2)

烚布列塔尼蓝龙虾、日本柚子及西瓜醋汁

FABRICE VULIN , recently appointed executive chef at The Tasting Room at City of Dreams, is a man who has won the respect and acclaim of both critics and the public over more than three decades at the highest levels of gastronomy.

At The Tasting Room, following his most recent position at two-Michelin-star Caprice at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, chef Vulin now brings some of France’s greatest culinary traditions to Asia for the first time. Celebrating fine dining almost as classic theater, Vulin’s personal touches further elevate the experience, nowhere more so than at The Tasting Room’s ultimate chef ’s table, available by personal invitation only. “We have a beautiful stateof-the-art kitchen,” Vulin explains, “with an extraordinary million-euro oven. A very special four-person table has guests sitting on a striking curved sofa facing the action, focused on what’s happening. It’s a really exclusive hideaway and it absolutely feels like diners are right there in the kitchen with us.”

Among the famous French dishes on offer is Poularde en Vessie, a classic from the late 1800s. The chicken comes from Bresse, near Vulin’s childhood home in the French Alps, and is itself world-class, even before being stuffed with ingredients that include foie gras and Galis black truffles.

The bird is encased in a pig bladder and poached gently in chicken broth to ensure that the natural juices remain inside and produce meat that’s incredibly moist. In a more contemporary vein, Vulin’s Lobster Tart is a decadent, beautifully constructed combination of the best Brittany lobster served in multiple layers and crowned with Kaviari caviar, acknowledged as the world’s finest and rarest.

No chef can match Vulin when it comes to unique relationships with France’s greatest suppliers, which give him an edge in securing ingredients that simply aren’t available anywhere else. “Direct flights from Europe to Macau mean the produce we have here is absolutely perfect,” he says. “Obviously, we’ll have the choice of

whatever is freshest in season, from truffles to asparagus, mushrooms to game, Mediterranean fish to the world’s choicest beef.”

Vulin, renowned for his dessert innovations and their breathtaking presentations, gratifies once again with Cherry Chocolat, a classic combination of flavors, a celebration of premium ingredients in an elegant tart surrounded by sensuous curves of tempered chocolate.

The Tasting Room’s menu is, of course, accompanied by a list of the finest available Champagnes, wines, and spirits, all curated by famed sommelier João Pires MS. For lovers of Cognac, the range of digestifs is a particular draw. “We have an unbelievable vertical of Armagnacs from 1850 until today,” says Vulin. There’s also Rémy Martin Louis XIII Black Pearl. As the world’s most legendary Cognac, it blends twelve hundred eaux-de-vie, some as old as 115 years, and only 786 decanters were made from the single barrel. “You can be sure,” adds the chef, “that The Tasting Room will always have the finest trolley of digestifs anywhere.” the first five years

|

TK |

137

138

|

TK | the first five years

「厨师之桌」仅提供个人预约，到这里来 「观赏剧码」，可说再适合不过。他介绍道： 「我们的厨房美轮美奂，烤箱造价便高达 百万欧元。客人坐在流线造型的沙发上， 在别致的四人桌前看著厨师的一举一动， 所有细节尽在眼前，真正展现极度尊荣的 私密空间，感觉客人和我们一起在厨房一 般。」 餐厅供应的知名法国料理之一为源 自 19 世纪晚期的道地法国菜「香烧布雷

斯 鸡 (Poularde en Vessie)」， 鸡 肉 自 主 厨 幼时家乡法国阿尔卑斯山区附近的布雷斯 空 运 而 来， 即 便 尚 未 镶 入 鹅 肝 酱 及 南 法 Galis 黑松露烹制，布雷斯鸡本身便是世 界级的美味鸡种。烹煮时，鸡肉放进猪膀 胱后，浸入鸡汤文火慢煮，让内部保有丰 厚肉汁，尝到令人惊艳的温润口感。 主厨另一融合当代元素的作品龙虾 塔，则是使用品质一流的布列塔尼蓝龙虾， 层层叠起，上层缀以世界知名的顶级珍馐

FORBES CONRAD

新 濠 天 地「 御 膳 房 (The Tasting Room)」 新 任 主 厨 Fabrice Vulin 手 艺 独 到， 纵 横 厨艺界 30 多年，不仅备受美食评论家尊 敬及推崇，也广受大众喜爱。 来到「御膳房」，延续之前于香港四 季 酒 店 米 其 林 二 星 餐 厅「Caprice」 令 人 折服的烹饪功力，Fabrice 再次带来多道 亚洲首见的法国顶级美馔。享用精致餐饮 有如观赏经典剧码，主厨高超的烹饪技巧 令这体验更上一层楼。「御膳房」的顶级

CITY OF DREAMS | THE TASTING ROOM

← Poached Gillardeau Oyster, Lettuce Yeloute Sea Water Jelly 烚吉拉多生蚝、生菜忌 廉汤、海水啫喱 ↓

GERARD UFERAS

Chef Fabrice Vulin

Kaviari 鱼 子 酱， 成 品 之 美 引 人 入 胜， 让 食客回味无穷。 Fabrice 和 法 国 各 大 一 流 供 应 商 之 间 的特殊交情，无其他厨师能匹敌。这也成 为他的一大优势，使用的食材可非随处都 吃得到。他表示 ： 「食材从欧洲直送澳门， 品质无可挑剔，当季最新鲜的食材任君挑 选，从松露到芦笋、菇菌类到野味、地中 海鲜鱼到世界精选最上等的牛肉，应有尽 有。」

同时以创新甜点及令人屏息的华美摆 盘著称于世的 Fabrice，对于自己的力作「巧 克力及车厘子的经典」非常满意。优雅的 甜点塔载满顶级食材，融合各式经典风味， 最后围以调温朱古力装饰，尽显诱人线条 魅力。 「御膳房」的菜单少不了各种顶级香 槟、葡萄酒及烈酒，均由知名侍酒师 João Pires MS 精 心 安 排。 对 干 邑 情 有 独 钟 的 客人，餐厅准备了各式餐后酒以供挑选，

成 为 一 大 特 色。Fabrice 自 豪 的 说 ： 「其 中 亚 文 邑 (Armagnac) 酒 藏 特 别 丰 富， 从 1850 年到现在，说得出来的几乎都有。」 另外还有具传奇色彩的全球干邑之王人 头马路易十三黑珍珠 (Rémy Martin Louis XIII Black Pearl)，由超过 1,200 种原酒混 酿而成，部分年份甚至长达 115 年，一个 酒桶仅出产 786 瓶。他特别强调 ： 「我敢 打包票，你不会找到比『御膳房』更齐备 的餐后酒车。」 the first five years

|

TK |

139

DAVID HARTUNG

CITY OF DREAMS | SHINJI BY KANESAKA

140

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

精工细作 寿司职人

sushi do

A master of his craft carries on the tradition of a thousand years in his constant quest for excellence.

IT WAS A CHANGE of career path in his early years that led Shinji Kanesaka to the art of sushi. “In my high school days, I played baseball with the dream of becoming a major leaguer in the US, but I finally gave it up,” he says. “At that time the house I roomed in ran a sushi restaurant. It gave me the chance to learn about sushi and I realized that it could be considered one of the great art forms of the world. And so I made my decision to become a sushi chef.”

Master Kanesaka, often described as a shokunin, one who embodies the artisan spirit of a relentless pursuit of excellence for the sheer joy of it and also with a consciousness of its social and cultural significance, is dedicated to continuous improvement in achieving the ultimate balance of flavors, textures, colors, and aromas.

Shinji by Kanesaka at Crown ­Towers, City of Dreams, is widely regarded as offering the most authentic Japanese culinary experience in Macau. An extension of the chef ’s two-Michelin-starred establishment in Tokyo’s elite Ginza district, Shinji by Kanesaka pays homage to the edomae style, in which simplicity is paramount and the sushi is artfully crafted one piece at a time.

“The passion must come from the heart

年 轻 时 一 次 转 换 职 业 跑 道， 让 金 坂 真 次 (Shinji Kanesaka) 接触到寿司的艺术。他回 想当时，说道 ： 「在高中时，我梦想进入美 国大联盟打棒球，但最后还是放弃了。那 时住的地方开了一家寿司店，我因此有机 会接触寿司，并进而认识到寿司的博大精 深足以让它被看待成世上伟大的艺术形式 之一，继而立下决心成为一名寿司师傅。」 金坂师傅多年来致力寿司制作，以达 至味道、质感、色彩和香气的最佳平衡 ； 因而被称为一名「职人」，其指的是能够为 了纯粹的愉悦和所代表的社会文化意涵， 而努力不懈地精益求精的工匠精神。 位于澳门​​新濠天地皇冠度假酒店的「金 坂极上寿司 (Shinji by Kanesaka)」，不仅提 供全澳门最正宗的日本美食文化体验，也 延续东京银座精华地段的米其林二星级本 店精神，向「江户前」风格致敬，超卓演 绎至高无上的简约风范，手握寿司更是精 致的宛如一件件艺术品。金坂师傅说 ： 「热 情必须发自于内心，并且用寿司呈现出来。」 他 在 2000 年 于 东 京 开 立 Sushi Kanesaka 本店，其拥护者视之为艺术形式的崇 高殿堂 ；餐厅自 2008 年起，获奖列为米其 林星级餐厅。 2010 年于新加坡莱佛士酒 店开设海外第一家分店 ; 第二家分店也在 2012 年于新加坡瑞吉酒店落成。然而，首 家及唯一的大中华区分店，则在 2015 年选 择于澳门新濠天地开幕。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

141

CITY OF DREAMS | SHINJI BY KANESAKA

Sushi Maestro Shinji Kanesaka and Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi 寿司料理长金坂真次和总厨大隅达

Ingredients are flown in from Japan three times a week. Clockwise from upper left: aji (horse mackerel), sayori (halfbeak), kohada (gizzard shad), saba (mackerel), yuzu (pomelo), sudachi (citrus), hamaguri (clam), anago (sea water eel), and kuruma ebi (tiger prawn).

and find its expression in the sushi,” says Kanesaka.

He opened his original restaurant, Sushi Kanesaka, in Tokyo in 2000.

Considered by devotees to be a temple of the art form, the restaurant has been on the Michelin award list since 2008.

In 2010, the first overseas branch opened at Raffles Singapore, and in 2012, a second opened, eventually moving to The St. Regis Singapore. The first and only branch in Greater China opened at City of Dreams Macau in 2015.

Heading up the kitchen in Macau are Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi and Senior Sous Chef Kenichi Fujimoto, both of whom have been trained and qualified by Master Kanesaka as successors to the spirit behind his approach, sushi do, the way of sushi. Both have also inherited the master’s meticulous craftsmanship, fashioning each piece of sushi individually by means of strictly traditional techniques.

The omakase (“I will let you decide”) menu is an expression of trust in the chefs’ judgment and an acknowledgement of their skills in creating a custom-made sequence of balanced offerings for each

142

|

TK | the first five years

guest. It becomes a complex and nuanced interchange between chef and diner as the meal plays out.

The décor reflects the master’s philosophy of purity and simplicity. It was designed, like his Tokyo original, by Junzo lrikado and emphasizes natural organic materials, such as paper and wood imported from Japan. The sushi counter has been carved from the trunk of a hinoki, or Japanese cypress tree.

Its richly grained wood gives off a subtle scent.

Supplies of seafood are personally selected by Master Kanesaka at the famous Tsukiji Market in Tokyo and flown directly to Macau several times a week, and the rice is washed in pure Japanese spring water to preserve the subtlety of its original taste. “The most important factor is the rice,” says Kanesaka. “Its taste changes depending on its temperature and degree of firmness.”

Although one of the great virtuosos in his field, Kanesaka admits he is still a little nervous at the start of each new day. “It’s good for me to feel this way,” he says. “It keeps me on my toes and helps me strive to be better.”

任职于澳门分店的是总厨大隅达及资 深厨师长 Kenichi Fujimoto，两人不仅师承 金坂真次，也被他认可为日本传统文化精 神的继承者， 「sushi do」也就是「寿司的态度」 (the way of sushi)。除了秉承金坂师傅精湛 细腻的技艺之外，两人也用严谨认真的态 度和传统手法握制每一件寿司。 「厨师发办」 (omakase) 代表的是顾客对于寿司师傅的信 赖，因为他们能够精准判断，施展平衡各 项料理元素的高超技艺，带给顾客量身订 制、无可比拟的鲜味冲击，当餐点一道道 呈现在顾客眼前时，它将幻化为寿司师傅 和顾客之间复杂而微妙的交流互动。 如同东京本店的风格，澳门「金坂极 上寿司」的装潢也流露出金坂师傅崇尚纯净 和简约的哲学理念。餐厅由 Junzo Irikado 设 计，以日本进口的纸张和木材强调自然有机 材质的简朴，寿司吧台则是用日本扁柏树干 雕刻而成，丰盈的木质散发出淡泊香气。 海鲜食材的供应商也由金坂师傅从知 名的东京筑地市场亲自挑选，并以每周数次 的频率，空运直送到澳门。寿司米则是用纯 净的日本温泉水洗涤，以保存其原有的温润 口感。金坂师傅认为 ： 「寿司的米是最重要 的元素，米饭的味道取决于它的温度和软硬 度。 」尽管已是日式料理界的艺术大师，金 坂师傅仍对每一天新的开始感到紧张期待， 他表示 ： 「保持这种状态对我来说是好的， 让我每天都战战兢兢，努力做到更好。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

新鲜食材由日本空运，一周三次。自左上角顺时钟依序为： 池鱼、水针鱼、小肌、鲭鱼、柑橘、酢橘、文蛤、海鳗和车海老。

Kobe Beef Marinated with Yuzu Miso 柚子味增酱烤神户牛肉

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

143

Braised Abalone, Fish Maw, and Japanese Sea Cucumber 纯阳至补 （鲍鱼、花胶，关东辽参）

STUDIO CITY | PEARL DRAGON

珍馐美馔

delicacies with distinction

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Studio City’s spectacular venue combines the talents of two masters to bring diners the finest and rarest of Cantonese specialties.

CHEF TAM KWOK FUNG enters the beautifully appointed dining room bearing a platter laden with dried abalone, fish maw, and sea cucumber, breathtaking in market value, if not in visual appeal. At his side, Chef Lam Yuk Ming presents the finished dish from the same set of ingredients, these delicately braised, aromatic, and mouthwatering.

Together, they place the dishes side-by-side on the table's mother-of-pearl Lazy Susan, shimmering and iridescent under the chandelier, amidst custom tableware that features exquisite details like silver dragon and pearl chopstick rests and napkin rings.

The scene is a fitting analogy of Pearl Dragon’s system of management and operations. Chef Tam, as Director of Culinary Operations for all Chinese restaurants at Studio City, City of Dreams, and Altira, provides the high-level planning and oversight, and Chef de Cuisine Lam takes direct responsibility for the day-to-day operations and execution of Tam’s vision.

“Pearl Dragon showcases the choicest of Cantonese specialties alongside an innovative contemporary menu,” says Tam, whose versatile talents have been recognized with two Michelin stars. “We use premium quality, natural, organic and farm-fresh ingredients sourced from all over the world.

Cantonese cuisine relies on finely-tuned techniques to allow the purity of the natural flavors to shine through, so the quality of the key ingredients is absolutely paramount – certified Kobe beef, Brittany blue lobster, Japanese sea cucumbers, birds’ nests from Thailand. Our culinary team conducted months of tastings for the birds’ nests alone.

Differences are subtle, but with a good bird’s nest, you get a slight trace of egg white in the fragrance. There can’t be any chemical additives – it must be there in its natural state.”

Chef de Cuisine Lam Yuk Ming 总廚林钰明 the first five years

|

TK |

145

Chef Lam, a specialist in the rarest of Chinese delicacies, has spent over twenty years refining his skills in the finer points of Cantonese cooking, and he knows exactly how to finesse a bird’s nest: “The best method is to double boil it in water until very tender and the gelatinous texture is revealed. Then you can flavor it with honey or almond milk, or add rock sugar syrup for a pure sweetness that enhances the flavor without overpowering it.” As with any double-boiled soup, the cooking time must be strictly monitored. By slow-simmering the soup in a sealed container immersed in a pot of boiling water, Lam ensures that none

146

|

TK | the first five years

of the nutrients released by the ingredients are lost.

Lam’s experience comes into play once again with the dried seafood, which requires skillful rehydrating. But the first step is always selecting the best quality. “You can get a rough idea just by looking at it – there’s a visible difference in color,” says Lam. “And with practiced smelling, you can judge whether or not it was properly stored.”

After that, it’s all about managing the timing. The seafood must first be soaked in water, a day for an average-size abalone, up to several for a larger one or a sea cucumber. Then it is steamed and finally

braised in the sauce it will be served with.

Lam supervises every step, gently pressing each piece to gauge doneness. Because the items differ in size, quality, and character, the chef ’s greatest challenge often lies in controlling the optimal timing for each one. “You can’t go back if you soak or steam them too long.”

In every aspect of Pearl Dragon’s remarkable cuisine, attention to detail typifies the approach of chefs Lam and Tam. Their teamwork has given birth to a truly world-class Cantonese restaurant with the accent on natural, healthy, authentically prepared food.

STUDIO CITY | PEARL DRAGON

Stir-Fried Lobster with Caviar 油泡龙虾球伴黑鱼子 → Wok-Seared Australian Wagyu Beef Cubes with Homemade Black Garlic

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

黑蒜双葱爆和牛粒

谭国锋步入精美的餐厅，手拿一盘干鲍鱼， 花胶及海参，觉得视觉冲击不够大的话， 听到市价也包准让人咋舌。身旁的总厨林 钰明则是端出相同食材煨煮过后的料理出 场，香气四溢，叫人直吞口水。他们把菜 肴并列地摆放在餐桌的珠光母圆转盘上， 各款餐具精致高雅，细节见真章 ：配饰如 特制银龙，珍珠筷架，餐巾环等，在吊灯 的照射下缓缓的闪亮着。 两人正是「 玥 龙轩」管理及营运的两 大支柱，谭国锋身为新濠影汇、新濠天地 及新濠锋酒店所有中餐厅厨艺总监，负责 宏观规划及督管；总厨林钰明则是掌管「玥 龙轩」的每日营运，将总监的愿景付诸实行。 横跨不同领域的米其林二星名厨谭国

锋表示 ： 「来到『 玥 龙轩』，吃得到严选的 顶级粤菜经典及创新当代菜色，选用的都 是来自世界各地，品质一流、天然、有机 及农地直送的新鲜食材。广东菜讲究细部 拿捏，才能让天然美味完美发挥，食材品 质的重要性自不待言，如产地认证的神户 牛、布列塔尼蓝龙虾、关东辽参以及泰国 燕窝。拿燕窝来说，我们团队光试味道就 试了好几个月，差异非常细微，但好的燕 窝一入口，吃得到一丝蛋白的清香。不能 添加任何化学成分，一定要纯天然的味道 才对胃。」 林师傅钻研各式稀有中式菜肴超过 20 年，不断精进厨艺，提升粤菜料理水平。 如何处理燕窝最好吃问他就问对人了。他 说明 ： 「双锅加水炖煮至软嫩，直至胶质完 全释放，接着加入蜂蜜或杏仁奶调味，最 后用冰糖带出甘甜，让所有味道融为一体 却又不会喧宾夺主。双锅炖煮看重的就是 时间，一定要严格控管。燕窝封在小瓮里 浸入大锅隔水文火加热，此一方式让汤品 保有所有食材精华，一点都不流失。」

林师傅的老经验碰上海鲜干货一样能 派上用场，如何加水发泡正是关键，极需 技巧，但能否挑到品质最好的干货仍旧是 第一道门坎。 他解释道 ： 「第一眼就能看 出个大概，色泽有一些差别。鼻子久经训练， 也能嗅出干货是否保存得当。」 选对干货后，再来就是时间点的掌握 了。海鲜干货需先浸水，以一般大小的鲍 鱼来说约末需要一天，体型大一点的或海 参则可能需要花上数日。 接着过蒸，再放入高汤酱汁煨煮后一 同上桌。林师傅紧盯每一个步骤，轻轻触 压以确认发泡程度。每个干货大小、品质 及特性都不同，能否针对不同食材精准掌 控时间，考验每个师傅的功力，如他所说的： 「一旦泡水或蒸太久，可是没有任何回头的 机会了。」 「玥龙轩」的出色美食吃得到两位总厨 对于细节的讲究，各方各面也展露无遗。 谭国锋及林钰明携手合作，打造世界级粤 菜餐厅，天然、健康又原汁原味的菜品， 让饕客大呼过瘾。 the first five years

|

TK |

147

细味南北

the grand tour An exciting restaurant in the heart of Studio City takes diners on a flavor excursion of China.

IN CHINESE CUISINE, there’s a well-known contrast between foods of the north and those of the south. Guangdong in the south is hot and humid, so Cantonese cuisine tends to lean towards light and open flavors. Sichuan and Hunan in the north have a wetter climate, and so complexity and spice become important elements in the food.

Bi Ying at Studio City brings these northern and southern flavors together, serving highly seasoned provincial dishes alongside beloved Cantonese favorites.

148

|

TK | the first five years

With each cuisine having its own unique strengths, Bi Ying takes the best of both and unites their ingredients and cooking techniques.

The restaurant’s executive chef, Kenneth Law, has honed his experienced command of the two culinary approaches at some of Asia’s top kitchens. His satisfaction comes from bringing an innovative variety to his menus, but always within a context of authenticity. He and his team have worked to create a number of one-of-a-kind dishes without

compromising on the cream of the classics.

Another of Bi Ying’s distinctions, beyond its emphasis on traditional cooking methods, is an insistence on top-tier ingredients.

A case in point is the restaurant’s barbecued honey-glazed iberico pork skewer with pineapple. All iberico pork, as the chef explains, is not created equal, and he demands the best to be found in Spain. Likewise, Bi Ying’s northern-style roasted short ribs with spicy dip is made with US prime beef. And the Sichuan-style poached wagyu beef in chili

STUDIO CITY | BI YING

中式料理的南北菜系之间有着鲜明的对比 ： 南边的广东一带气候湿热，所以粤菜崇尚清 淡，从而促进食欲 ；而北部的四川和湖南气 候湿冷，因此，繁复的烹调程序和多种辛香 料的混合使用成为了川湘菜烹调的重点。 澳门新濠影汇「碧迎居」巧妙融汇南 北口味，将北方菜的丰富调味加入粤菜中， 菜式结合南北菜之长，展现食材和技术的 完美融合。 餐厅行政总厨刘楚源曾在亚洲多间顶 级餐厅历练，掌握了两个菜系的烹调技术。 他最自豪的莫过于将创意元素与传统菜式 的精粹相结合。他和团队不断创作出融合 了传统风味的独特佳肴。

除了强调正宗烹调技术，「碧迎居」另 一个独到之处就是坚持采用顶级的食材。 总厨指出，很多市面上的西班牙伊比利黑 毛猪品质参差不齐，因此他决意在西班牙 挑选最优质的猪品来制作餐厅的「蜜味西 班牙黑豚叉烧波罗串」。此外，「蒙古酱烧 牛肋骨」也是选用顶级美国牛肉，而「老 四川水煮和牛」的牛肉则来自澳洲。不论 是哪一道菜，总厨都能让顶级的食材和遵 循古法的调味达到最佳平衡。 刘总厨的菜肴总能让顾客回想起过去 的美好时光，借由家乡菜来唤起他们的思 乡之情，一次又一次地重拾回忆的片段。 这大概就是刘总厨最大的喜悦。

Barbecued Honey Glazed Iberico Pork 蜜味西班牙黑豚叉烧

“Sichuan Style” Stir-Fried Spicy Baby Lobster

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

小龙虾

oil is sourced from the finest raised in Australia. In each of these dishes the chef achieves a sophisticated balance between the foundation flavors of the premium meat and the nuanced notes of the seasonings.

Chef Law’s greatest pleasure, perhaps, comes from the fact that for many guests his dishes evoke a warm nostalgia, reminding them of home with the kind of food that brings them back time and time again.

Monk Jump Over the Wall 御品佛跳墙

Chef Kenneth Law 刘楚源师傅 the first five years

|

TK |

149

STUDIO CITY | SHANGHAI MAGIC

上海菜的花样戏法

culinary conjuring

Steamed Hot and Sour Shanghainese Pork Dumplings with Crabmeat 酸辣蟹粉小笼包

150

|

TK | the first five years

TENDRILS OF SMOKE swirl inside a glass bell jar, alternately revealing and obscuring a martini glass within. Beguiled diners would be understandably hard-pressed to recognize it as the Shanghainese-style dish of soy-marinated cod that they had ordered.

In spite of its Chinese moniker that includes “smoked fish” in English translation, the dish as typically prepared today involves no actual smoking. Chef de Cuisine Wilson Fam’s showy presentation makes playful reference to the widely recognized misnomer, inviting guests to join in on the fun.

An artist at heart, Fam believes that the first moment of delight upon seeing one of his dishes is an important part of the dining experience at Shanghai Magic. “Plating is so important to me because we see before we eat,” he says. “I put my heart into my cooking, and it makes me very happy when I see that guests recognize and appreciate my creative expression.”

Fam, who has attained the highest levels of culinary expertise from his positions at internationally acclaimed restaurants, including Doc Cheng’s at Raffles Singapore and the Michelin-starred Jade Dragon at City of Dreams, is exceptionally wellqualified to man the helm of Studio City’s modern Shanghainese restaurant. Malaysian-born and originally trained in Western cuisine, he is free of the baggage of tradition that might otherwise have held back creativity and innovation in a native Shanghainese chef. Instead, he combines a clear understanding of the flavor profiles and textures of the regional cuisine with a solid mastery of traditional and contemporary Chinese culinary techniques.

The result is a menu of traditional Shanghainese dishes with a highly sophisticated twist. Sometimes he adjusts a recipe to suit the lighter palate of the Macau and Hong Kong markets. Or he riffs on classic dishes by adding or substituting key ingredients

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Chef Wilson Fam’s culinary legerdemain takes one of China’s great regional cuisines to new heights.

Showmanship aside, the aromatizer serves the practical purpose of lightly infusing the marinated and fried cod with the scent of smoked applewood chips. 眩目的表演下，钟形罩内的袅袅熏香是为 了让烟熏银鳕鱼充满苹果木屑的香气。

Chef de Cuisine Wilson Fam 总厨范健华

STUDIO CITY | SHANGHAI MAGIC

Featuring whole sea urchin, shredded mud crab, and diced mandarin fish, Chef Fam’s sai pang xie stir-fried egg white dish truly lives up to its “better than crab” billing.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

总厨范健华用整颗海胆、切片红蟳、鲈鱼切丁和蛋白制作而成的「赛螃蟹」名符其实成为「媲美蟹肉般的人间美味」。

or by exploring the possibilities of unusual cooking techniques. For example, Fam’s lion’s head meatballs are briefly poached and then steamed for five hours, making them infinitely more tender than by traditional braising.

The chef highlights his signature hot and sour Shanghainese pork dumplings with crabmeat, and the rich soup base is perfectly balanced by piquant bird’s eye chili and tangy lemon juice. “You can feel the power and heat from the chili, but not enough to burn your mouth,” says Fam. In the same way, the lemon juice adds just a hint of brightness without overwhelming the soup with citrus.

“This project was a big challenge for me,” Fam admits. “I visited many Shanghainese restaurants in Macau and Hong Kong to research their menus. But everyone was doing the same thing. So I thought, ‘Why don’t we try to do something different?’” No one can deny that Fam and his team have succeeded brilliantly in creating a uniquely appealing kind of Shanghai magic.

钟形罩内烟雾氤氲缭绕，罩子下的马丁 尼杯若隐若现。沉醉于这景象的宾客恐 怕摸不着头绪，原来这是他们点的苏式 熏银鳕鱼。尽管这中文菜名里有「熏鱼」 二字也就照这样翻成英文，但其实这道 菜并没有熏制的过程。范健华总厨借题 发挥，开这个流传久远的命名一个玩笑， 顺便邀请宾客一起享受他的幽默。 就像艺术家一样，范健华总厨深信 让宾客从第一眼就满意他的料理是在「上 海魅影」用餐经验重要的一环。「摆盘对 我来说很重要，因为我们总是先看到盘 子里的菜才开始品尝，」他说。「我用真 心做料理，当我看到客人能理解并欣赏 我的创意和巧思时总是让我非常开心。」 总厨范健华曾经在国际知名的餐厅 如新加坡莱佛士酒店的「Doc Cheng’s」 和新濠天地的知名米其林餐厅「誉珑轩」 工作，短短几年就成为独当一面的餐厅 总厨，是新濠影汇摩登上海餐厅再适合 不过的掌厨人选。这位来自马来西亚的 总厨一开始从西式料理入门，因此和一 脉相承的沪菜师傅相较他不受所谓传统 的束缚。但他反其道而行，从各大流派

中吸取养分，结合运用他对中菜口味和 特色的深入了解和对中菜技法的彻底掌 握。 他为传统上海佳肴开创新局面。有 时考虑到香港和澳门市场吃得不那么重 口味，他在口味上作些许调整 ；有时也 会沿用传统菜式，再加入新元素或者使 用新的烹调方法。拿狮子头作例子，他 先用滚水煮过再细火慢炖五个小时，使 得狮子头口感更松散柔软、入口即化。 他特别推荐上海魅影招牌的上海酸 辣蟹粉小笼包，浓郁的汤汁再用点鸟眼 辣椒和柠檬汁点缀。「你能够感受到辣 椒的辣度，但这不会让你的嘴唇发烫。」 他说。同样地，柠檬汁不是为了抢去所 有锋头，是为了衬托汤头，让味觉更有 层次。 「这个计划对我而言是很大的挑 战，」他承认说。「我走遍了香港和澳门 的上海菜馆并逐一研究他们的菜单，但 各家的菜色看起来差别不大。于是我想， 『为什么不尝试做点不一样的？』」没有 人会否认范健华和他团队成功地让「上 海魅影」成为独树一格的存在。 the first five years

|

TK |

153

A LT I R A M A C A U | Y I N G

经典粤菜 全新演绎

discovering cantonese

Chef de Cuisine Tim Lam 总厨林汉添

154

|

TK | the first five years

THE FIRST CLUE that Ying is not the typical Cantonese restaurant is in its décor: thick red carpet underfoot, lavish gold draperies, and fine bone china pave the way for a timeless dining experience that is a generous cut above. “Ying is a classic Chinese restaurant,” says Chef de Cuisine Tim Lam, “but we combine traditional dishes and ingredients with updated techniques and modern presentation.”

Lam has been making sure that Ying’s standards of top quality and consistency are met while at the same time introducing his own contemporary spin on authentic dishes.

His Deep-Fried Crab Meat and Pork Puffs is a good example. “It’s very rare and old-fashioned,” says Lam. “Nowadays you’ll hardly find a restaurant in Macau that can make it, and even if you do, you’d have to order in advance because it’s so complicated and time-consuming.” Almost like a Chinese version of ravioli, the filling of lean pork, crab meat, and shrimp mixed with mushrooms, crab roe, and coriander is stuffed between sheets of pork fat, then deep-fried to a delectable crispiness.

Other classics that seamlessly blend traditional and modern elements include Sautéed Lobster Cantonese Style and Ying’s signature Crispy Chicken with Lemon Sauce.

“Chinese people expect perfection when it comes to crispy chicken,” says Chef Lam. “The skin must have crunch, but the meat must be tender, never overcooked.” Lam’s Flambéed Ibérico Pork Char Siu takes the stage in a dramatic tableside presentation in the dining room after it has been barbecued in the kitchen. Flamed and sliced in front of guests, Lam glazes the meat directly from an impressive chunk of honeycomb.

“Many people in China hardly know where honey comes from,” he says. “It’s a good way of connecting diners with raw ingredients.”

Finding original ways to make use of

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

A talented chef explores new dimensions of classic cuisine at Ying.

← Crispy Chicken with Lemon Sauce 柠香脆皮鸡 ↙ Sautéed Lobster in Cantonese Style 粤式炒龙虾球 ↙↙ Flambéed Ibérico Pork Char Siu 火焰黑豚叉烧

traditional Cantonese ingredients is an expression of the chef ’s philosophy of uniting old and new. “I think it’s important to keep our connection to the past,” says Lam. “But we have to keep progressing, and when we explore, we often discover some beautiful and creative new dishes.”

「帝影楼」绝非一般粤式餐厅，只消看一眼 它的装潢便可见一斑 ：厚重的大红地毯、 奢华贵气的垂帘、鲜艳精致的骨瓷，在在 为了赋予宾客永生难忘的用餐体验，别家 餐厅可谓望尘莫及。 「『帝影楼』是地道正 宗的中式餐厅。」总厨林汉添表示。「我们 用传统菜式与食材，却结合了最新烹调技 艺与现代的整体呈现手法。」 总厨林汉添一方面维持着「帝影楼」 的超高水平与一贯风格，同时在正宗料理 中 融 入 自 己 的 当 代 观 点， 他 的 金 钱 蟹 盒 就是绝佳例证。林总厨说 ： 「这是道罕见 又老派的料理，现在澳门几乎没有餐厅会 做，就算有做，宾客也必须提早预订，因 为做工太繁复又耗时。」金钱蟹盒就像广东 式意大利云吞。拌着猪梅肉、鲜蟹肉、鲜 虾、香菇、蟹黄、香菜的馅料夹着薄薄的两 片肥肉 ( 需要很好的刀功 ) 中间，沾上薄 粉，炸至金黄酥脆 ；尝后令人齿颊留香。​ 其他荟萃了传统与现代元素的经典菜式 包括粤式炒龙虾球，及「帝影楼」的招牌 菜香柠脆皮鸡。「中国人吃脆皮鸡讲究『恰 如其分』，外皮酥脆，肉质软嫩绝不过老。」 林总厨说道。而他的火焰黑豚叉烧先在厨 房烤过后，再送到宾客桌边如表演般闪亮 登场。只见林总厨在宾客面前将猪肉炙烧、 切片，然后毫不手软地从蜂巢倒出大量蜂 蜜，直到将叉烧完全包覆。「中国许多人都 不清楚蜜汁怎么来的。」他说。「这是用原 始食材拉近与宾客距离的好方法。」 采用创新方法演绎传统粤式食材是林 总厨实现新旧融合哲学的表现。「我觉得不 忘本很重要，但我们仍要持续进步。只要 用心探索，往往就能创造出美丽新颖的佳 肴。」他如是说。 the first five years

|

TK |

155

自我「意式」

self-expression italian style A gifted young chef communicates a very personal culinary vision through Aurora’s authentically Italian food.

Marinated Sea Bream: Sea Salt, Lemon, Cucumber, Oyster Leaf 海盐柠檬腌生鲷鱼片配青瓜、柑橘忌廉及生蚝叶

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A LT I R A M A C A U | A U R O R A

HELDER AMARAL has been chef de cuisine of Aurora, Altira Macau’s signature Italian restaurant, for little more than a year. But taking on the prestigious assignment was part of a natural career evolution for the youthful and talented Portuguese native, who has held positions at a number of Michelin-starred French restaurants.

For him, making the transition to standout Italian cuisine was seamless, given his previous experience with a luxury Italian hotel brand and the shared influences of two towering culinary traditions.

“I am completely passionate about this role,” says Amaral, “as much as I am about being a chef, developing the cuisine at Aurora, and continually trying new things.

The menus represent my vision, a very personal story. Here I am able to express myself through my food, and I love it.”

For Aurora’s diners, this translates into fervid attention to detail, imaginative plating, a masterly balance of textures and flavors, and a keen sense of the seasonal. A case in point is Amaral’s Marinated Sea Bream, Sea Salt, Lemon, Cucumber, Oyster Leaf, a precisely orchestrated signature bursting with freshness that he characterizes as simply “my unusual sea bream carpaccio.” Fish imported from Japan is gently pounded paper thin to emphasize its delicate texture and perfectly paired with cucumber, presented in varying iterations that include gel and raw. A contrasting acidity comes from confit lemon cream, rounded out with oyster leaves that play on subtle notes of the sea.

Among the chef ’s trademark dishes is his Slow Cooked Suckling Pig, which takes two days to prepare. Inspiration for it came from a wine dinner at which the chef served a whole suckling pig deboned. He carried this idea forward, in homage to the traditional porchetta, with marinated pork belly that is stuffed, rolled, and braised at low temperature for up to eighteen hours until meltingly tender. Each succulent portion of Amaral’s pork is tucked into Aurora’s pizza oven to warm and, most importantly, to create crackling that is perfectly crisped. The dish is complemented with silky celeriac purée, cubes of twice-cooked potato, turned seasonal vegetables, and a savory port jus. “I

Chef de Cuisine Helder Amaral

am super happy with this dish,” says Amaral.

Pasta is another of his specialties, with offerings changing with the time of year.

“Each pasta dish is inspired by Italian traditions,” says Amaral, “but becomes my contemporary interpretation of the season on a plate.” One excellent example is Veal Shank Agnolotti, fresh pasta filled with braised veal and served with white and green asparagus, morel mushroom, parmesan emulsion, and onion confit. It’s an elegant plate, revealing the refinement of Amaral’s sensibilities in the combination of ingredients. He sources many of his ingredients from Italy, such as hazelnuts and ham, and others from France,

such as premium asparagus, but his highest priority is always to find the best.

Amaral’s overarching culinary philosophy is based on the principle that less is very often more. “There are never more than three or four distinct flavors on each plate – otherwise it confuses the palate. There must be a harmony among the ingredients, a balance that I believe Aurora excels at.”

For the future, Amaral has his sights set on Michelin stars, and in light of his approach, the goal seems eminently within reach: “My commitment is always to cook food that I believe in and never to send anything to the table unless I’m proud of it.” the first five years

|

TK |

157

Veal Shank Agnolotti, Braised Veal, White and Green Asparagus, Morel Mushroom, Parmesan Emulsion, Confit Onion 意式焖牛仔腿肉饺配青芦笋、白芦笋、 羊肚菌、巴马臣芝士汁、洋葱酱

A LT I R A M A C A U | A U R O R A

Homemade Suckling Pig Porchetta, Espelette Potato, Spring Vegetables with a Selection of Fine Mustards

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

意式烤乳猪配埃斯佩莱特薯仔，春季蔬菜，自选多款芥末酱

对才华出众的青年主厨来说，出任重要职 位其实是职业发展规划中再自然不过的一 步。Helder Amaral 来自葡萄牙，曾于多家 米其林星级法式餐厅历练多时，担任澳门 新濠锋招牌意大利餐厅「奥罗拉」主厨也 已经一年多了。Helder 早先还曾效力于豪 奢意大利品牌系列酒店，修炼了一身功夫， 汇集了两大顶级料理传统之长。因此，对 他来说，转战意大利菜系完全不费吹灰之 力。Helder 强调 ： 「我全身投入新工作，同 时对于厨师专业、在『奥罗拉』拓展烹饪 的可能性以及尝试新作法也注入同等的热 情。菜色反映了我的梦想及个人故事。在 这里，我可以用做菜尽情展现自我，感觉 再好不过了！」 光临「奥罗拉」的食客也将有全新体验。 餐厅为食客呈现讲究细节的美馔、天马行 空的摆盘、完美平衡的口感与味道，以及 紧跟季节脚步的时令鲜味。主厨的海盐柠 檬腌生鲷鱼片、青瓜及生蚝叶正是绝佳例 子，精确发挥各食材的特色，迸发鲜甜滋味。

对此，他却仅用「我的特色生鲷鱼盘」一 句带过，相当云淡风轻。日本直送的鱼肉 悉心切成如纸般的薄片，细致的口感，与 青瓜形成绝配，并以鱼冻以及生鱼片等不 同形式上桌 ；油封柠檬酱的酸度搭配生蚝 叶变得柔和，减少味道的冲突性，也可尝 到精妙的海洋鲜味。 他的招牌菜之一意式烤乳猪需要两天 时间准备。这道菜可以追溯至某个餐酒晚 宴，当时主厨曾端出了整只去骨烤乳猪。 后来，Helder 将那位主厨的概念视为灵感， 再进一步改良了传统意式烤乳猪。他先将 腌猪肚填料、卷裹后低温炖煮 18 小时，直 至入口即化的软嫩程度。 Helder 对每块猪肉都进行精挑细选， 然后将其中多汁的部分放进「奥罗拉」披 萨烤炉加热，烤出完美酥脆度的外皮。烤 乳猪配上口感柔滑的芹菜泥、熬煮两次的 薯块、料理过的季节时蔬以及风味十足的 波特酒酱汁。 他说 ： 「做这道菜真的让人 心情很好。」

意大利粉也是主厨的拿手菜，种类随 每年季节变化而有所不同。 他说明 ： 「每 道意粉都以意式传统为出发点，加以我对 季节食材的现代演绎上桌。」意式焖牛仔腿 肉饺正是其中的代表，新鲜意粉包裹焖牛 仔腿肉，再搭配青芦笋、羊肚菌、巴马臣 芝士汁及洋葱酱。这道菜风格优雅，体现 Helder 组合各式食材的细腻触觉。主厨自 意大利进口许多食材，如榛果及火腿，其 他像顶级芦笋则是从法国直送，以找到最 棒的食材为第一优先。 Helder 那包罗万象的烹饪哲学其实重 点无他，以「少即是多」为最大原则。他解释： 「每道菜不能超过三种或四种主要味道，否 则会变得杂乱。各种食材应该和谐共存， 达到平衡，也是我眼中『奥罗拉』的过人 之处。」Helder 以摘下米其林星星为未来目 标，以他目前的烹饪风格来看，那一天似 乎就近在咫尺。他认为 ： 「我只料理我相信 的食材，没信心的菜绝不送上桌，这是我 给自己及餐厅的承诺。」 the first five years

|

TK |

159

A LT I R A M A C A U | T E N M A S A

美味第六感

sixth sense PART CUISINE, part theater, the complex art of tempura involves a constant interaction between chef and diner. So it’s hard to imagine that a decade ago, when Chef de Cuisine Takenori Noguchi first arrived at Tenmasa in Macau to head the renowned restaurant, he couldn’t speak a word of either Chinese or English. “It was virtually impossible for me to speak with my guests,” he says. “But slowly I began picking it up through the people I worked with, and now I’m able to have that good communication that you need.”

As head of the only branch of Tokyo’s most celebrated tempura restaurant outside Japan, Chef Noguchi believes it’s important for Tenmasa at Altira Macau to remain true to the original. “Obviously, my base is Tokyo Tenmasa style, and it’s what our guests keep coming back for. We don’t change that, we don’t touch that approach.”

But he does introduce new elements that are especially popular in Macau and Hong Kong. “I’ve come to sense what they like,” says Noguchi. “I can source unique ingredients that Tokyo isn’t using. Here we offer à la carte as well as tempura, so I can be a bit more creative.”

Just as popular as Tenmasa’s signatures are dishes like succulent wagyu tenderloin with foie gras and sesame miso sauce, served on a sizzling stone. “My maki prawn tempura is especially tender and full of flavor,” says Noguchi. “They may be small, but when cooked they take on a delicious sweetness.”

Sea urchin tempura, another big hit, was actually a suggestion from a guest at Tokyo

Tenmasa. Wrapped in seaweed, the dish reveals layers of complexity. “I always recommend the first bite on its own,” he says, “then the second with maybe just a little salt.”

After eighteen years at Tenmasa, Noguchi has discovered that no two days are the same and that it’s impossible to get bored. “Tempura is always a challenge – it changes every day and I’m always finding ways to make it better,” he says. “Perfecting tempura takes a sixth sense, a certain sensibility. And it’s a feeling I enjoy every day.”

↑ Ice Cream Tempura with Sweet Red Bean, Soy Bean Powder, Black Sugar Syrup and Green Tea Powder 雪糕天妇罗配红豆蓉、黄豆粉，黑糖加绿茶粉 ← Tempura Sea Urchin wrapped with Dried Seaweed 天妇罗海胆紫菜卷 ↗ Grilled Wagyu Tenderloin and Foie Gras with Sesame Miso Sauce on Hoba Leaf

朴叶石烧和牛柳及鹅肝伴湖麻面豉酱 → Tempura Maki Prawn 天妇罗竹虾

160

|

TK | the first five years

些许美食、些许表演性质，在炸天妇罗这 门深奥的艺术中总不乏厨师与饕客的频繁 互动，难以想象野口武则十年前刚入主名 店澳门「天政」接掌餐厅总厨一职时一句 中文或英文都不会讲。他也坦承 ： 「一开始 要和客人讲话真的难如登天，但透过与人 共事边工作边学，现在想聊什么我都能奉 陪到底。」 「天政」为东京天妇罗界顶点，身为唯 一海外店总厨，野口武则管理澳门新濠锋 「天政」分店，恪守「尊重原味」的原则不悖。 他强调： 「我一身本事都是在东京店学来的， 其经典风格让客人不断回访。餐厅一路走 来始终如一，方法多年来坚持不变。」不过 他并非一成不变，在菜单中引入澳门及香 港客人特别喜爱的元素。野口武则说 ： 「我 能抓到本地客人喜欢的口味，引进一些特 别食材，这在东京店看不到的。餐厅有单 点料理也有天妇罗，有更多空间发挥创意。」 「天政」许多招牌菜也广受客人欢迎， 如美味多汁的朴叶石烧和牛柳及鹅肝伴湖 麻面豉酱。天妇罗竹虾也是总厨的自信作 之一，他说 ： 「我的竹虾天妇罗质地特别 软嫩、味道丰富，体积虽小，油炸起锅后 可是鲜甜美味无法挡。」天妇罗海胆紫菜卷 也是店内人气料理，可说是拜东京「天政」 某位客人提议之赐才有的美味。裹着海苔， 海胆天妇罗吃得到多种层次的繁复口感。 总厨建议 ： 「第一口原汁原味品尝，第二口 则可以沾点盐再吃。」 在「天政」18 年的岁月，每天对野口 武则而言都是新的一天，从不厌倦。他说 明： 「烹制天妇罗永远是个挑战－每天都有 变化，我的任务就是想方设法，让味道变 得更棒。天妇罗技术要臻至完美需要第六 感，像某种特定的直觉，大概也就是我每 天也沉醉享受的感觉吧。」

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Respect for tradition and a well-honed feel for what diners want has made Takenori Noguchi master of an art form.

MORPHEUS

澳门崭新地标

new icon of macau Groundbreaking design and luxe execution combine to create Macau’s most visionary hotel.

MORPHEUS, Macau’s gleaming new luxury hotel, occupies a prime spot within City of Dreams, Cotai’s premium integrated entertainment complex. Its forward-looking architecture, innovative design concepts, and sumptuous amenities represent the ultimate in smartness, sophistication, and conscientious contemporary indulgence. Morpheus champions a philosophy of quality in form and substance, gracefully balancing simplicity and style in an expression that looks beyond the here and now. City of Dreams’ newest hotel is expected to open in 2018.

Situated within the iconoclastic megasculpture designed by the late Dame Zaha Hadid, DBE, the new tower is one of the last – and most brilliant – designs conceived by the legendary architect. Morpheus represents the world’s first free-form exoskeleton architectural composition, incorporating a number of design and technological breakthroughs. Inspired by ancient jade artifacts, the structure contains no two pieces that are the same.

The building, comprised of two thirtynine-story towers, is connected at both the podium levels and the roof. Its distinctive exterior design features a series of voids that give it character and volume and create exciting internal spaces. The hotel’s

162

|

TK | the first five years

accommodations will include approximately seven hundred eighty guest rooms, as well as suites, sky villas, and duplex villas.

As the epitome of modern opulence, Morpheus will offer state-of-the-art amenities as well as the courteous guest services that City of Dreams is famous for, thoughtful attentiveness that satisfies beyond the physical senses. The quality of service will be perfectly complemented by guest facilities exceeding five-star standards, crowned by a spectacular infinity swimming pool hovering a hundred and thirty meters above the ground.

Three posh villas with interior private pools promise an exclusive experience for VIP guests. And Morpheus will offer yet another choice to guests who already appreciate the gastronomic delights at City of Dreams – a dining experience on the hotel’s sky bridges that present panoramic views over Cotai. An imaginative array of premium food and beverage outlets will serve a range of international cuisines. Twelve highspeed observation lifts through the atrium will provide views of the dramatic interior architecture. In creating Morpheus, City of Dreams has tapped the world’s greatest talent to ensure the ultimate in style, service, and luxury.

全新豪华酒店沐梵世座落于本澳路 氹 城高 级综合娱乐度假村新濠天地的极佳位置。 新酒店的现代化，智慧型高尚设计概念和 尚乐主义哲学突显了「新濠博亚娱乐」对 智能、设计，建筑和奢华的极致追求 ；同 时体现质量与简约时尚的完美平衡，为本 世代的奢华理念重新定义。此全新酒店预 计将于二零一八年开始投入服务。 沐梵世由已故札哈 · 哈蒂女爵士担纲

BARTOSZ KOLONKO

建筑设计，这项大型地标建筑是世界上最 炫丽的建筑奇迹之一，亦是这位传奇建筑 师的遗世杰作。它是全球首个采用自由形 态外骨骼结构的摩天大厦，实现了建筑和 技术上的新突破。以玉饰品为设计灵感， 沐梵世的每一块结构元件都是独一无二的。 新酒店包括两栋 39 层高的大楼，两座大楼 于平台和顶层相连。酒店中间镂空部分突 显结构的复杂性、空间感以及其独特的外

形设计，令内部空间更显特色玩味。 沐梵世设有约 780 个客房，套房，空 中别墅及复式别墅，为宾客提供独一无二 的住宿选择。酒店配备独特的豪华酒店服 务，以及超越五星级酒店水平的一流设施， 包括离地面 130 米高的无边际泳池 ；酒店 中的三间豪华别墅更设有室内私人泳池， 世界级设备和无微不至的服务定让来宾感 受超乎想像的顶级体验。

沐梵世同时亦为钟情新濠天地美食的 宾客提供另类餐饮选择，其中包括于架空 天桥上的餐饮体验，让宾客可同时饱览路 氹 城全景。酒店内亦设有多间高级食肆， 提供多国美食。宾客可搭乘 12 部高速观光 升降机，通过中庭到达客房楼层，同时一 览大楼内部壮观的建筑设计。公司聘用顶 尖人才建设这些非凡的酒店设施，以确保 沐梵世能为宾客提供最独特奢华的体验。 the first five years

|

TK |

163

Longmorn

164

|

The Glenlivet

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

Aberlour

Chivas Regal

Scapa

P R E S E N T E D B Y C H I V A S B R O T H E R S LT D H O N G K O N G & M A C A U

经典款款

portfolio of distinction From its beginnings to its present status as a flourishing global conglomerate, Chivas Brothers Ltd has been continually committed to the production of the finest in quality whiskies. To meet market needs and provide the widest range of customer selections, Chivas Brothers Ltd has throughout the years expanded its portfolio, especially of malt whiskies.

We take a look at the history behind its products and at what creative minds in today’s Hong Kong are doing with the distinctive beverages presented under the esteemed name of Chivas Brothers Ltd. § 从最初到如今鼎盛的国际集

团，Chivas兄弟始终秉持初衷，致力于生产优质威士忌。近几年，品牌屡屡扩充产品线，更为旗下麦芽威士忌 家族新添成员，满足市场需求也为顾客提供更多的选择。现在就让我们一起来了解各款承载着 Chivas兄弟盛誉 的顶级佳酿的故事，探索品牌香港创意团队如何玩转独特的威士忌产品。

Chivas Brothers Ltd offers an extensive portfolio of malt whiskies, some dating back to the nineteenth century. The Glenlivet, for example, began in 1824 at LONGMORN, a remote distillery in Speyside, Scotland’s THE GLENLIVET, famed whisky region. Unlike other disABERLOUR, tilleries at the time, Glenlivet was built CHIVAS REGAL , SCAPA almost nine hundred feet above sea level.

Founder George Smith believed the elevation would enhance the whisky’s richness and smoothness, and it stood out right away, thanks to mineral-rich Josie’s Well, a source of water to this day, and its innovative copper-still-shaped bottle.

Today, The Glenlivet is to be found at bars the world over. In the US, it’s the best-selling single malt, and in Hong Kong, a range of varieties is available, from 12 Year Old to 25 Year Old, plus limited editions.

In 2015, Chivas Brothers Ltd introduced Aberlour, a boutique brand with a distillery in Aberdeenshire that was established in 1879. Aberlour is known for its double-cask maturation technique, which results in a unique taste that has made it the top-selling single malt in France. Four varieties are sold in Hong Kong: 12 Year Old, 16 Year Old, 18 Year Old, and A’Bunadh, a handcrafted, cask-strength whisky that has achieved cult status among fans.

This year saw the launch of several more whiskies, including Longmorn 16 Year Old and Scapa Glansa single malts, as well as Chivas Regal Ultis malt whisky. The story behind Longmorn is that John Duff, who founded the distillery in 1894, built a station linking it to the Great North of Scotland Railway in order to be able to gather the best ingredients and then export its fine product. The Scapa distillery in the Orkneys, hand-operated by five artisans and a master distiller, is one of the last to continue this tradition. And Chivas Regal Ultis delivers its unique flavor by blending distinctive Speyside single malts. The first blend in the brand’s history, it consists of Allt A’Bhainne, Braeval, Longmorn, Strathisla, and Tormore. The five malts in the blend are a nod to Chivas Regal’s five master blenders who have worked with the brand since its beginnings in the 1900s.

DAVID HARTUNG

Malt Whiskies

Chivas 兄 弟 旗 下 麦 芽 威 士 忌 酒 款 丰 富 多 元， 有 些 甚 至 可 追 溯 至 19 世 纪。 始 于 1824 年 的 格 兰 利 威

(Glenlivet) 威士忌就是其中一例。格兰利威原本出 产自一座位于苏格兰威士忌产区斯佩塞的蒸馏厂， 厂房地理位置偏僻，地处近海拔九百英尺，这样的 高海拔让这座厂房显得与众不同。 创办人 George Smith 认 为， 地 势 高 的 环 境 能 提 升 威 士 忌 的 饱 满 度和醇滑感，加上富含矿物质的乔西之井 ( Josie’s Well) 山泉水与独树一帜的壶式铜制蒸馏器，让威士 忌的风味更加突出。 如今世界各地的酒吧都可找到格兰利威的踪迹， 同时亦为美国最热销的单一麦芽威士忌，在香港则 有从 12 到 25 年等多款佳酿和限量版威士忌任君挑选。

2015 年 Chivas 兄 弟 推 出 精 品 品 牌「 亚 伯 乐 Aberlour」。 该品牌始创于 1879 年，其蒸馏厂同年 于阿伯丁郡成立，并因双桶熟成技术而声名大噪， 独特的风味让它成为法国销量最高的单一麦芽威士 忌。香港则推出了 12 年、16 年、18 年和首选原桶 四款，其中这首选原桶为手工蒸馏，以原桶的浓度 装瓶，在酒迷心中崇高地位可谓历久不衰。 今年威士忌家族更新添多款成员，包括著名单 一麦芽威士忌 Longmorn 16 年和 Scapa Glansa，以 及麦芽威士忌 Chivas Regal Ultis。 Longmorn 蒸馏 厂 创 立 于 1894 年， 创 办 人 John Duff 为 获 取 最 上 乘原料并出口优质产品，建造了一个与苏格兰大北 方铁路公司直接相连的车站。 Scapa 蒸馏厂位于奥 克尼群岛，由一位蒸馏师傅及五位专业工匠以人工 操作的方式酿造，为仅存的传统蒸馏厂其中之一。

Chivas Regal Ultis 风味隽永不凡，以弥足珍贵的斯 佩塞单一麦芽调和而成。这品牌史上最早的顶级调 和威士忌包含 Allt A’Bhainne、Braeval、Longmorn、

Strathisla 以及 Tormore 五款尊贵的上乘麦芽佳酿， 向五位从 1900 年代芝华士创建之初，便致力为品 牌贡献的酿酒大师致敬。 the first five years

|

TK |

165

P R E S E N T E D B Y C H I V A S B R O T H E R S LT D H O N G K O N G & M A C A U

Perrier-Jouët Champagne SHERATON HONG KONG HOTEL & TOWERS 香港喜来登酒店

166

|

TK | the first five years

1811 年起，Perrier-Jouët 便在埃佩尔奈葡萄园调制顶级佳酿，现已成长 为全球首屈一指的香槟大厂，同时亦为现今香港多家奢华早午餐的必备 香槟。 「 蚝 酒 吧 Oyster & Wine Bar」 周 日 早 午 餐 提 供 Blanc de Blancs、 Grand Brut NV、Blason Rosé 等多款 Perrier-Jouët 系列无限畅饮。喜来 「Blanc de Blancs 个性活泼，清爽、辛烈、有 登侍酒师 Roger Fan 说 ： 劲，尾韵带有强烈矿物味。 」这款酒最适合搭配海鲜享用，如精选自法国、 美国、澳洲水域的时令即开生蚝，更能凸显蚝肉的独特风味与口感。

Grand Brut 花香细致、果香圆润，适合搭配经典法国菜焗龙虾，或 自家腌渍甜菜根三文鱼 ；而 Blason Rosé 柔和雅致，十分合适搭配鸭胸 「若 配油封鹅肝，或严选美国 USDA 肋眼牛排。餐厅经理 Carol Yuen 说： 海鲜老饕希望享受美味海鲜搭配顶级传奇香槟的奢华体验，就来蚝酒 吧！」 香港洲际酒店港畔餐厅也推出供应 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut 无限 畅饮的早午餐，同样掳获饕客的心。这里的周日早午餐主打各式海鲜菜 式、寿司与生鱼片、多种现切烤区以及一座九层韩式海鲜塔，令人目不 暇给的菜式选择远近驰名。 港湾的另一边，香港港丽酒店的意宁谷餐厅周末早午餐则以 Grand Brut 搭配质朴的北意大利特色料理与亚洲经典菜式，包括各式经典意大 利面、烧烤吧、中式佳肴与一盘盘用料大胆丰富的海鲜，全都等着来宾 一同享用。而怀欧叙餐厅周末早午餐亦供应 Grand Brut，搭配顾客现点 现做的龙虾与鹅肝、中式烧烤以及各式美味餐点，最是享受。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

As one of the world’s great Champagne houses, Perrier-Jouët has been delivering quality pours from its Épernay vineyards since 1811. And today in Hong Kong, PerrierJouët is served at the city’s top champagne brunches.

Oyster & Wine Bar offers a range of free-flowing Perrier-Jouët at Sunday brunch, including Blanc de Blancs, Grand Brut NV, and Blason Rosé. Of the Blanc de Blancs, Sheraton sommelier Roger Fan remarks, “This is a vivacious wine. It’s fresh, tangy, and invigorating with a mineral intensity on the finish.” And it’s the perfect match for seafood, especially for the distinctive flavors and textures of the restaurant’s offerings of freshly shucked seasonal oysters from France, the US, and Australia.

The Grand Brut, with its delicate floral hints and creamy fruit flavors, would go well with the classic lobster thermidor, or the home-cured beetroot gravlax. And the Blason Rosé is a supple, complex wine that makes a good match with the duck breast with seared foie gras or the roasted USDA prime ribs.

“Oyster & Wine Bar,” says manager Carol Yuen, “is for seafood lovers looking for an elevated experience with the finest bubbles from a legendary Champagne house.”

At Harbourside at Intercontinental Hong Kong, brunch with free-flowing Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut is a mainstay. The restaurant is known for its elaborate Sunday spread that features fresh seafood dishes, sushi and sashimi selections, dedicated carving stations, and a nine-layer Korean seafood tower.

At Conrad Hong Kong on the other side of the harbor, Nicholini’s offers weekend brunches that pair Grand Brut with rustic northern Italian specialties and Asian favorites, including a variety of hearty classic pastas, a grill station, Chinese dishes, and sumptuous seafood platters just begging to be shared. And Brasserie on the Eighth also serves Grand Brut at weekend brunches that feature made-to-order lobsters and foie gras, Chinese roasts, and everything in between.

Martell Cognac STOCKTON, HONG KONG

Fizzy Rascal

P R E S E N T E D B Y C H I V A S B R O T H E R S LT D H O N G K O N G & M A C A U

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Fizzy Rascal

Acclaimed for its smoothness, Martell Noblige has landed front and center on the revamped cocktail menu at Hong Kong speakeasy Stockton, known for original drinks inspired by famous writers. “I feel sad that more bartenders don’t feature Cognac,” says Stockton mixologist Suraj Gurung. “You can really play with Martell, because its flavor profile is so versatile. We’ve made three totally different drinks from the same Cognac.”

The Fizzy Rascal, inspired by Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray , in which the title character hoped to stay young forever, is based on the mojito, “a classic that never ages.” Instead of rum, it uses Martell Noblige “for floral, fruity flavors,” a lime cordial called falernum, absinthe, housemade strawberry cordial, champagne for a dry finish, and fresh strawberries as garnish.

A different take is the Fiery Ginger, inspired by Dorothy Parker. “She was fond of drinking,” notes Gurung, “and had suicidal tendencies. We used Martell Noblige as a base, to help her come across as softer.” Also included are Nordic aquavit, pistachio syrup, ginger, the bitter liqueur cynar as a nod to Parker’s feistiness, and two ingredients both bitter and sweet, celery and walnut.

The Macabre pays tribute to Edgar Allan Poe and his melancholy writings by reviving from the dead an older version of the Sazerac.

Instead of the commonly used rye whisky, Cognac was called for in the original recipe, before phylloxera triggered the Great French Wine Blight and wiped out production. A mix of lighter and heavier flavors, the Macabre is made with butter-washed Noblige, absinthe, tonka beans, demerara, beeswax, house peychaud bitters, and angostura.

M a r te l l N o b l i g e a l s o fe a t u re s a t Stockton’s sister outlets. At Mott 32, the Vieux Carre is made with high west rye, Mancino vermouth, the herbal liqueur Benedictine, and Chinese bitters. At Blue • Butcher & Meat Specialist, the Buchanan contains sherry, coffee infusion, pecan, black cardamom, passionfruit curd, and chocolate bitters, and the Cumbria is a spicy drink of bourbon, rye, cumberland spice, angostura, and espresso demerara.

香港地下酒吧 Stockton 以向知名文豪致敬的原创调酒著称，口感滑顺的 Martell Noblige 马 「越来越多侍酒师不 上成为酒吧最新酒单上的大亮点。Stockton 调酒师 Suraj Gurung 说 ： 选用干邑，我觉得很可惜。Martell 的风味十分多变，可玩出的花样可多了，我们就曾以一 支同款干邑调制出三种完全不同的鸡尾酒。 」 「The Fizzy Rascal」灵感源于奥斯卡 • 王尔德的创作《道林 • 格雷的画像》 ，故事主角 希望青春永驻，这款酒便以永垂不朽的经典莫吉托鸡尾酒为基础 ；不用兰姆酒调配，改用 花果香浓郁的 Martell Noblige、名为法勒南的莱姆糖浆、苦艾酒、自制草莓糖浆，以及干 而不甜的香槟作结，并以新鲜草莓作装饰。 「Fiery Ginger」启发自朵洛西 • 帕克。Suraj 说 ： 「朵洛西很爱喝酒，而且有过自杀倾向。 」另用上北欧阿夸维特、开心果糖浆、 所以我们用 Martell Noblige 为基底，带出她的柔软。 生姜、西洋蓟口味苦酒（象征朵洛西的充沛活力） ，以及芹菜与胡桃等苦甜混合的材料。 「The Macabre」则赋予旧版 Sazerac 调酒崭新生命，向爱伦 • 坡与其愁绪满溢的文学作 品致敬。在根瘤蚜触发法国酿酒葡萄大浩劫之前，Sazerac 原始酒谱其实用上干邑，而不 是裸麦威士忌。 「Macabre」则使用 Martell Noblige、苦艾酒、香豆、德麦拉拉蔗糖、蜂蜡、 贝桥苦精以及安哥斯图娜苦酒，调和轻重不同的风味。

Martell Noblige 亦是 Stockton 另一酒吧「卅二公馆」的主打酒款，「Vieux Carre」以 西高裸麦、曼伽诺苦艾酒、草本利口廊酒和中国苦味酒调制而成。而在「Blue•Butcher and

Meat Specialist」餐厅，鸡尾酒「Buchanan」则含雪莉 酒、咖啡混调、长山核桃、小豆蔻、百香果凝乳以及 巧克力苦精 ； 「Cumbria」 口 感 辛 辣， 含 波 本、 裸 麦、 坎伯兰香料、安哥斯图娜苦酒以及德麦拉拉浓缩咖啡。

For more information please see page 200.

the first five years

|

TK |

169

Hong Kong Iced Tea

Voted “Best Tequila” at the 2012 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Tequila Avión Silver also wins praise from Hong Kong mixologists like Mott 32’s Lok Gurung: “Avión is very well-balanced and it has a lot of character – when you mix it with fruits and liquors, it still stands out.” Avión Silver is produced in Jalisco, Mexico, a region known for the high quality of its agave piñas, thanks to the mineral-rich character of its soils. Using agave grown at seven thousand feet above sea level, which adds an extra layer of depth and sweetness to the spirit, Avión Silver is made with an ultraslow filtration process that ensures a rich and flavorsome result.

Gurung created the Hong Kong Iced Tea cocktail with Avión Silver after sipping on a classic iced lemon tea, often served at local eateries. “I was especially inspired by 7-Eleven’s version,” he says. His potent take on the ubiquitous favorite, served in a plastic cup with the restaurant’s logo, is based on jasmine tea and includes black currant liqueur, Lillet Blanc aperitif, and Cointreau for its fruity orange notes.

The Five Spice Sherry, named for the classic Chinese ingredient, pairs well, says Gurung, with Mott 32’s Sichuan chicken. The cocktail is made with Avión Silver, five spice powder, raspberries, sage, lime, and Pedro Ximenez Sherry. “The sherry,” says Gurung, “has a dark-chocolatey, fruity flavor that combines really well with the grassiness of tequila and the agave in it. To me, when you’re drinking Avión, it’s more than having a shot – you feel that agave.”

170

|

TK | the first five years

Five Spice Sherry

Tequila Avión MOTT 32 卅二公馆

Avión Silver 曾获 2012 年美国三藩市世界烈酒 大赛「最佳龙舌兰奖」 ，亦深受香港调酒师青睐， 「Avión 这 款 酒 平 卅 二 公 馆 的 Lok Gurung 说 ： 衡得非常好，有众多特点，即使将它混合在水

果和利口酒里，它的味道还是很突出。 」Avión Silver 产自墨西哥哈利斯科，该地区土壤富含矿物质，因以培育出高品质的龙舌 兰。而生长在海拔七千英尺高地的龙舌兰能为烈酒额外增加一层深度与甜度，Avión Silver 过滤制程缓慢，以确保风味醇厚浓郁。 Lok 喝过一口香港餐厅经常供应的经典冰柠檬茶后，便用 Avión Silver 调制出 「Hong Kong Iced Tea」鸡尾酒。他说 ： 「7-11 的冰柠檬茶带给我最多灵感。 」这款盛 装在印有餐厅标志塑胶杯里的鸡尾酒，以茉莉花茶为基底，另加上黑醋栗利口酒、白 丽叶酒和君度橙味甜酒调制。 「The Five Spice Sherry」根据道地中国食材命名，Lok 说这款搭配卅二公馆的四 川辣子鸡最对味。这款鸡尾酒使用了 Avión Silver、五香粉、覆盆子、鼠尾草、莱姆 「雪利酒内里有黑巧克力、果香，与龙舌兰的草 与 Pedro Ximenez 雪利酒。Lok 说 ： 」 味完美融合。我认为喝 Avión 不该只是一口饮尽，你要用心细味这款酒。

P R E S E N T E D B Y C H I V A S B R O T H E R S LT D H O N G K O N G & M A C A U

Absolut Elyx Vodka STUDIO CLUB, HONG KONG

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

A.M.

This spirit is perfect for the painstakingly crafted cocktails of Aaron Gurung, mixologist at lounge bar Studio. “I don’t want people to sip a drink and have it overwhelm their taste buds,” he says. “Absolut Elyx is neither too sweet nor too dry, so you can pair it with all kinds of flavors.”

Gurung created his A.M. using Absolut Elyx in a modernized version of the espresso martini. “I respect the classics and didn’t want to change the recipe,” he says. “I just wanted to give my own interpretation.” The A.M. is an energizing pick-me-up after a long day in hard-working Hong Kong. It’s made with freshly brewed espresso, Avión Espresso, brown sugar, coffee beans, and a garnish of wildflowers.

Fellow mixologist Anjan Siwa created a refreshingly palate-cleansing cocktail with Absolut Elyx for the Absolut Invite bartending competition in May. It’s a fruity mix of fresh lemon and raspberries combined with homegrown herbs, spice elixir, fresh egg white, and a roselle blossom on top. Then it’s garnished with a frozen candy made with angostura, orange bitters, and orange zest. “It’s good anytime,” says Siwa, “especially after dinner.”

这款烈酒用在雅座酒吧「Studio」调酒师 Aaron Gurung 绞尽脑汁设计出的调酒菜单上最适合不过了。 「我不希 望别人喝一口酒，整个味蕾就被味道填满， 」Aaron 说。 」 「Absolut Elyx 不会太甜，也不太干，与各种味道都很搭。

Aaron 创造的「A.M.」将 Absolut Elyx 以现代版浓缩 咖啡马丁尼呈现。他说 ： 「我尊敬经典，不想改变酒谱， 只想加点自己的诠释。 」 「A.M.」以现煮浓缩咖啡、Avión Espresso、黑糖与咖啡豆调制，以花卉点缀，格外适合在 香港辛苦工作一整天后，饮上一杯来振奋精神。 调酒师 Anjan Siwa 则以 Absolut Elyx 创造了一款能 洗涤味蕾的清爽调酒，参加五月的 Absolut Invite 调酒竞 赛。 这款调酒内含新鲜柠檬、覆盆子等水果组合，加上 自家种植的香草、elixir、新鲜蛋白，顶端装饰一朵盛开 的洛神花，最后再用一块以安哥斯图娜苦酒、柑橘苦精、 「什么时候都好喝， 橙皮冰制成的糖果作结。Anjan 说 ： 晚餐后喝最好！」 the first five years

|

TK |

171

悠游美食银河

a galaxy of delights The flavors of the world come together at Galaxy Macau.

Imagine stopping in Kyoto for a quick lunch of the season’s freshest catch or supping one evening on premium Korean beef and waking up the next day to a brunch of handmade Cantonese dim sum. At Galaxy MacauTM, you’ll experience a whole world of flavors – from Singapore to Italy, Thailand to Taiwan – at the eighty-plus award-winning dining venues of Macau’s most resplendent resort. And you won’t even need a passport!

可曾想像过在中午简单品尝京都最新鲜当令食材， 傍晚又可以大啖顶级韩牛，隔天起床再迎接一顿粤 式手工点心早茶。这可不是做梦！只要来到寰宇佳 ，你就可以品尝到这 肴数之不尽的「澳門銀河 TM」 些令人垂涎三尺的环球美食－从新加坡到意大利， 从泰国到台湾， 「澳門銀河」八十多家享誉无数的 餐厅，应有尽有，不需环游世界就可大饱口福！

Takigawa soy-milk tofu 滝川豆腐

172

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

山里

YAMAZATO

Charcoal-grilled surf clam 炭烧北寄贝

While some restaurants may rely on showy techniques or trendy flavor combinations to pull in a crowd, Yamazato, the acclaimed Japanese kaiseki restaurant on the twenty-eighth floor of Hotel Okura Macau, is founded on a philosophy that’s quite the opposite. Just like its softs­poken executive chef, Akira Hayashi, Yamazato’s cuisine bespeaks a quiet confidence premised on one simple kitchen brief: purity.

“We try not to do too much cooking ,” says chef Hayashi, his culinary restraint belying the decades of training his chefs must undergo to deliver dishes up to his exacting standards. “When you’re using the freshest ingredients of the season, you want diners to be able to experience their natural essence.” Yamazato’s signature favorites have roots in classic Japanese culinary traditions, with just a few judicious tweaks to excite the modern palate. Don’t expect any superfluous “storytelling” here – in chef Hayashi’s sophisticated idiom, the ingredients speak for themselves. 有些餐厅著重花巧的烹饪技巧或以新潮口味来吸引顾客，但位于澳门大仓 酒店 28 楼的知名日式怀石料理餐厅「山里」的创店哲学则恰好相反。山 里的行政总厨林彰温文儒雅，料理则一如其人，秉持「纯净」这项简单的 理念，流露出沉着的自信。

Clear soup with pike conger 牡丹鳢清汤

他说 ： 「我们尽量不做过多的『烹调』 。 」因此，为了达到他的烹饪标 准，他手下的厨师全都经过数十年的训练。「当你用的是最新鲜当令的食 材，就会希望顾客品尝到最天然的精华。 」其中最受顾客喜爱的招牌菜源 于传统日式料理，并根据当代口味作出细致微调。引用林彰总厨不落俗套 的用词，这里没有过多花俏的「故事」 ，食材本身的味道就是一切。 the first five years

|

TK |

173

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

丽轩

LAI HEEN Regally ensconced on the fifty-first floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Macau Lai Heen is literally the top Chinese restaurant in Macau. But for head chef Bill Fu, that isn’t superlative enough.

This culinary master wants to further elevate the dining experience by reconstructing classic Cantonese cuisine, combining luxe twists with centuries-old cooking techniques and introducing presentation styles photogenic enough for the most Instagram-savvy of millennials.

“The younger generation tends to think of dim sum as something they do only with their elders,” says Fu, “but we find that by giving tradition a few twists, we can prove that fine dining can also be fun.” The restaurant’s dim sum lunch offerings already draw a steady following of young executive types, with plating adapted from large serves for communal sharing to meticulously crafted individual portions.

Lai Heen has swiftly garnered a slew of awards, including a Michelin star bestowed this year. But the team doesn’t dream of resting on recent laurels. “To celebrate our Michelin star,” says Fu, “we continue to experiment with new ideas, presenting new menus with new items that keep our guests coming back for more.”

Steamed scallop dumplings with preserved olives and crab roe 榄菜鲜贝菜苗饺

庄严地坐落在澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店 51 楼， Pan-fried skipjack tuna dumplings with dried turnip, peanuts, and mushrooms 鲣鱼地豆半煎饺

丽轩无疑是澳门最「高」的中餐厅，然而对 于傅文彪总厨而言，餐厅还有继续提升的空 间。 为提升用餐体验，粤菜名厨傅总厨巧 妙重造经典粤菜，结合传承数世纪的烹调技 艺及美轮美奂的摆盘样式，以符合千禧世代 爱在 Instagram 上分享美食照片的潮流。 「年轻世代认为港式点心是老一辈的人 吃的。 」傅总厨说。「但我们发现只要稍微 改良传统料理，精致饮食也可以很有意思。 」 丽轩的点心午餐已经吸引了一群稳定的年轻 主管顾客，点心的份量也从传统多人共享转 变为适合单人独享的精致份量。 丽轩掳获大量奖项，例如今年获得的 《米其林指南香港澳门 2017》一星荣誉，但 傅总厨团队的梦想不止于此。他说 ： 「为庆 祝获得米其林星级荣誉，我们不断创新和实 践，推出新菜式、新菜单，以吸引更多顾客 回流。 」

174

|

TK | the first five years

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

法式经典 一脉相承

from master to disciple Working under the tutelage of a French culinary virtuoso has given Julien Tongourian the skills to carry on a three-star tradition.

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

177

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

THE RESTAURANTS of superstar chef Joël Robuchon, who is known for his tireless pursuit of perfection and was named by the Gault & Millau restaurant guide as France’s Chef of the Century, have garnered a record total of twenty-eight Michelin stars. Of these renowned venues dotting the globe, Robuchon au Dôme, with its magnificent views of Macau from atop the gleaming Grand Lisboa Hotel, is perhaps the most lavish.

There are platinum dining plates from Bernardaud and silverware from Christofle.

The glasses are Riedel and the crystal floor lamps are Baccarat. An enormous chandelier made from more than a hundred and thirty thousand dazzling Swarovski crystals cascades from the ceiling and illuminates the vintage Steinway piano beneath it.

Although Executive Chef Julien Tongourian has been in charge at Robuchon au Dôme for two years, his working relationship with founder Joël Robuchon goes back much further. After stints at other Michelin-starred restaurants, he joined L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris in 2003, undergoing rigorous and invaluable training from a chef who would

come to be his mentor. For the next ten years, Tongourian moved between Robuchon’s other restaurants, coming to Hong Kong in 2013 and finally to Macau in 2015 to take over at Robuchon au Dôme. “I’ve been exposed to so much by coming here,” he says. “In France we have some amazing European products, so you don’t open your mind to other things, because you think you already have the best.

We never think to source from Asia, but when you come here and you have access to these foods, it’s really quite amazing.”

Describing his association with Joël Robuchon as a father-son relationship, Tongourian explains, “There’s a lot of transmission and communication between us. He shares his knowledge, his recipes, and his passion – he wants to pass on everything he knows.” Their working relationship has led to a deep trust, and, although Julien has a lot of freedom to create his own dishes, he never strays far from his mentor’s distinctive culinary approach. “My style is Joël Robuchon’s style,” he says, “and, after fourteen years, his kitchen is my kitchen.”

For Tongourian, his work is most critically

about what happens before the guests even arrive. “The kitchen of Robuchon isn’t just about dressing beautiful plates – it’s very focused on the details,” he says. “Everything we do to set up and prepare is very important.

What we do in the morning is more important than the service. Service is service, but if the mise en place has not been properly carried out, then the guests aren’t going to eat well.”

The chef has learned never to raise his voice or lose his temper in the kitchen. “I understood very early on that if I did that, the whole kitchen would freeze and I wouldn’t get the best from my people,” he says. He soon realized that he had to change his attitude and become more patient, like a teacher or a coach. “In France,’’ he says, “the staff needs to respect the chef. Here, the chef needs to respect his staff.”

“And, while I am the chef, I’m also an ambassador for Joël Robuchon. It’s a great responsibility – I’m the face of the restaurant when he’s not here. People are expecting something very special when they come to Robuchon au Dôme – and we have to make sure to give it to them.”

明星大厨 Joël Robuchon 以不懈追求完美的 精神享誉全球，不仅被高特米鲁餐厅评鉴 指南誉为法国世纪名厨，其旗下餐厅加总 起来甚至荣获世界最高纪录的 28 颗米其林 星星。而在遍布各地的 Robuchon 法式餐 厅中，当属位于光彩夺目的澳门新葡京酒 店最高圆顶内、能将澳门绝世景致尽收眼 底的天巢法国餐厅最为奢华。 这家星级餐厅采用柏图白金餐瓷、昆 庭银器、醴铎酒杯以及巴卡拉水晶地灯， 近大门处悬挂一盏以多于十三万颗闪亮璀 璨的施华洛世奇水晶缀饰而成的大吊灯， 光芒倾泻而下，将古色古香的史坦威钢琴 照耀得熠熠生辉。 行 政 总 厨 Julien Tongourian 已 掌 管 天 巢 法国 餐厅两年， 但他与创办人 Joël Robuchon 的合作关系却可追溯到更早以前。 Julien Tongourian 在其他米其林星级餐厅工 作过一段时间，随后于 2003 年加入巴黎的 L’ Atelier de Joël Robuchon，接受严苛却价值

非凡的训练，而这位训练他的厨师也成为 他的人生导师。其后十年，Julien 经过多家 Robuchon 餐厅的历练，2013 年来到香港， 再于 2015 年落脚澳门，接管天巢法国餐厅。 他说 ： 「我来这里后接触了很多新事物。因 为法国已经有不少很棒的欧洲食材，所以就 不会敞开心胸接纳其他事物，只会认为现有 的已经是最好的了。之前我们从来没想过选 用亚洲食材，但来到这里，运用了这些食材 之后，就会发现这些食材真的太棒了！」 提 及 Joël Robuchon 与 自 己 的 关 系， Julien 以「父子」来形容。Julien 解释道： 「我 们之间有许多传承与沟通，他与我分享他 的知识、他的食谱和他的热情，他想把所 知的一切都传给我。」两人因为工作而建立 起深厚的信赖关系，尽管 Julien 能随心所 欲开发自己的料理，但他却从未偏离人生 导师传授的独门技艺。「我的风格就是 Joël Robuchon 的风格，14 年后，他的厨房也 成为我的厨房。」Julien 如是说。

对 Julien 而言，最重要是在宾客来到之 前的准备。他说 ： 「Robuchon 的厨房可不只 是为了精美摆盘，而是要处理好每个细节。 我们摆设、准备的每一道工夫都非常重要， 而早上做的准备工作尤为关键。为宾客服 务是一回事，但如果烹饪前的准备动作没 有恰如其分地落实，宾客就不会吃得开心。 」 此外，这位厨师亦学到一个教训，就 是在厨房永远不要提高音量或发脾气。他 说： 「我很早就知道如果这样做，整个厨房 的气氛就会冷下来，手下的人就无法全力 发挥。」于是他很快便意识到自己必须改变 态度，需要更有耐心，扮演如同老师或教 练的角色。「在法国，员工必须尊敬厨师， 在这里，厨师要尊敬员工。」他补充说。 Julien 还 认 为 ： 「 我 是 厨 师， 也 是 Joël Robuchon 的大使，这是很重大的责任。他 不在这里的时候，我就是餐厅的门面。来到 天巢法国餐厅的贵宾都期待获得非常特别的 体验，我们一定要满足他们的期待。 」

178

|

TK | the first five years

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

179

LE CAVIAR

Impérial caviar and king crab refreshed with crustacean jelly 鱼子酱帝王蟹塔伴海鲜冻

Chef Tongourian describes this as a “very signature” dish of Robuchon, one created more than five years ago for a gala dinner. Delicate crabmeat, mixed with cauliflower cream, is surrounded by lobster jelly and topped with Impérial French caviar. “These ingredients,” he says, “are one of his characteristic combinations. The details are in the seasoning, and that’s his special technique – making a simple dish burst with flavor.”

180

|

TK | the first five years

主厨 Julien 形容这道为 Robuchon「非常经典」的 招牌菜，五年多前在一场晚宴上首度登场 ：细致蟹 肉拌绵密花椰菜奶油，周围包覆一圈龙虾冻，顶上 再铺满法国皇家鱼子酱。他表示 ： 「这些食材是他 的招牌组合之一。重点在于调味，这是他让一道简 单料理迸发各种风味的独门配方。 」

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

LA TOMATE

Candied cherry tomatoes invigorated with a spicy coulis 法国樱桃蕃茄伴果冻配特色蕃茄酱汁

With a recent focus on “food and life,” Robuchon has been creating dishes heavily influenced by vegetables. Here, tomato gazpacho is ensconced in a trio of candied tomatoes rolled in dried tomato powder. With its surrounding scoops of the insides of yellow ananas tomatoes, green zebra tomatoes, baby Japanese tomatoes, and points of basil coulis and yellow and red gazpacho, there’s no denying that this dish is all about tomatoes.

Robuchon 近来十分重视「食物与生活」，所创造的 佳肴因而深受蔬菜影响。在这道料理中，蕃茄冻汤 被密封在沾满干蕃茄粉的糖渍蕃茄里，周围点缀着 一球球黄澄菠萝蕃茄、绿斑马蕃茄、日本小蕃茄的 茄肉，再佐以星点般的罗勒库利与黄红色冻汤。这 道料理无疑是各式蕃茄的大集合！ the first five years

|

TK |

181

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

182

|

TK | the first five years

LE HOMARD

Grilled lobster with Château-Chalon wine, green peas, and seasonal vegetables 烤龙虾佐夏隆堡 (Château-Chalon) 葡萄酒、碗豆及当令时蔬 Succulent grilled lobster is accompanied by petit pois and a medley of fresh vegetables, including yellow and orange carrot, baby mushrooms, deep-fried baby onion, and baby daikon, and then finished with a tempura of wasabi. The crowning element is a unique foam made with a Château-Chalon wine from late-harvest grapes that gently enrobes lobster tomalley and green beans.

肥厚多汁的烤龙虾佐碗豆与黄萝卜、橘萝 卜、小蘑菇、香煎小洋葱、小白萝卜等 多种新鲜蔬菜，再摆上山葵天妇罗，最 后以晚收成葡萄所酿的夏隆堡葡萄酒打 制成泡沫，淋在上头，细腻地包覆着龙 虾肝与碗豆，风味绝无仅有。

the first five years

|

TK |

183

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

LE BŒUF

Beef chateaubriand and foie gras Rossini style with soufflé potatoes and vintage Port wine 香烤牛柳及鹅肝配砵酒汁

Nothing new, fillet steak Rossini style is said to have been created by French chef Escoffier in honor of the famed composer. “Many chefs pan-fry the beef and foie gras separately,” says Tongourian. “What’s special about this is that chef Robuchon cooks them together, so the flavors are very intense.” The dish is brought to the table in a wine box, lying on a bed of smoking thyme and rosemary.

184

|

TK | the first five years

由来已久的罗西尼菲力牛排据传是由 法国厨师 Escoffier 为纪念著名作曲家 「许多厨师 罗西尼所创造。Julien 说 ： 将 牛 排 和 鹅 肝 分 开 烤， 但 Robuchon 不一样，他将二者一起烤，所以味道 非常浓郁。 」这道佳肴盛装在铺满烟熏 麝香草与迷迭香的酒盒里，在桌上质 感别具。

LE CRABE

Mille-feuille of tomato and crabmeat 蟹肉蕃茄千层酥

Resembling a piece of cake, this dish couldn’t be further from the dessert trolley. A thirty-year-old recipe, it appeared on the menu of Robuchon’s first Michelinstar restaurant, and it remains as popular today. “ Tomatoes play such an important part in my cooking because few vegetables lend themselves to such a diversity of uses,” he says. The signature dish also contains king crab, watercress salad and a delicate spicy tomato coulis. 看似一片蛋糕，但这道料理可绝非 甜点。这道菜式三年前才诞生，首 次出现在 Robuchon 第一家米其林 星级餐厅的菜单上，时至今日人气 依旧居高不下。 「蕃茄在我的料理 中占有重要的一席之地，很少有蔬 果能用这么多种方式入菜。 」Julien 说。这道特色菜内含皇帝蟹肉丶西 洋菜沙律并以特色蕃茄酱汁调味。

THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

185

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

LA FRAMBOISE

Fresh raspberries on a shortbread biscuit, slightly flavored with lychee and yuzu 鲜红桑莓荔枝忌廉及柚子雪葩

Most popular of the five desserts on the à la carte menu, La Framboise uses seasonal raspberries from France to create an elaborate edible artwork on a plate. Raspberry jelly is topped with fresh raspberries, a Britannia shortbread biscuit, lychee cream, and housemade yuzu sorbet. 单点菜单上最受欢迎的五道甜点之一，这道甜点使用当季法国出产的红桑莓，

在盘中挥洒出一幅可食用的艺术作品。在底部红桑莓果冻上摆满新鲜红桑莓， 覆盖一块苏格兰奶油酥饼，再以荔枝奶油、手工柚子雪葩装饰。

186

|

TK | the first five years

the first five years

|

TK |

187

PRESENTED BY GRAND HYATT HONG KONG

港湾粵菜新浪潮

conscientiously authentic



One Harbour Road’s new chef de cuisine introduces earth-friendly Cantonese elegance.

IT MAY NOT BE EASY stepping in as chef de cuisine of a restaurant whose name for

要取代在这家餐厅掌厨了 28 年、俨然是餐厅代言人的上

twenty-eight years has been synonymous with that of another chef, but Chan Hon Cheong is proving to be the perfect man to accomplish the task. The Cantonese master, who comes to One Harbour Road with over two decades of culinary experience, including having helmed a Michelin-starred restaurant in Hong Kong, has already started impressing regular diners with concepts all his own.

Since taking the reins of Grand Hyatt Hong Kong’s renowned Chinese restaurant last November from chef Li Shu Tim, who now oversees the hotel’s Chinese banquet and restaurant operations as Chinese executive chef, Chan has refreshed fully half of the menu with dishes that put an emphasis on time-honored heritage recipes enhanced with touches of modern luxury.

In keeping with the hotel’s industry-leading efforts to encourage environmentally conscious consumption, many of chef Chan’s dishes include sustainably sourced seafood that has been certified by the MSC and the ASC. “It’s not easy to find sustainable seafood of the quality we are looking for and in quantities constant enough for hotel use,” says Chan, “but we all have to do our part for the earth.” Under Chan’s thoughtful leadership, wasteful practices common to Chinese kitchens, such as leaving taps running throughout dinner service, have been discontinued at One Harbour Road.

The hotel, which completely eliminated shark’s fin from the menus of all its restaurants two years ago, aims to ensure that by 2018 at least 50 percent of its seafood is obtained from ethical sources, demonstrating that good food can also be good for the environment.

任主厨，成为新任掌舵人绝非易事，然而陈汉章证明了他

188

|

TK | the first five years

确实是担此重任的不二人选。他钻研粤菜超过 20 年，曾 坐镇香港另一家米其林星级餐厅。 自接掌香港君悦酒店 「港湾壹号 (One Harbour Road)」以来，他炉火纯青的功 夫让食客印象深刻。 「港湾壹号」的上任主厨及开国功臣李树添目前担任 行政中餐总厨，负责监督酒店中餐宴席及餐厅营运。去年

11 月，陈师傅从李师傅手中接下重担，正式执掌「港湾壹 号」 。陈师傅随后翻新了半数菜式，让菜单上的传统粤菜散 发当代奢华的气息。 君悦酒店引领了业界推广具环保意识的消费风气。为 了响应酒店的经营理念，陈师傅所选用的均是符合可持续 水产海洋管理委员会 (MSC) 及水产养殖管理委员会 (ASC) 认证的可持续捞捕进口海鲜。他强调 ： 「要找到符合品质要 求、同时产量足以供应酒店所需的可持续捞捕海鲜非常费 作风，如任由水龙头不关的习惯在「港湾壹号」已不复见。 君悦酒店所有餐厅自两年前已取消所有鱼翅菜单，目 标在 2018 年达到一半海鲜食材均是以基于保障动物权益 的捞捕方式而来，想让更多人看到好的食物也同時对环境 有益。

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

劲，但我们都应为地球尽一份力。 」他一改中菜厨房浪费的



Chef de Cuisine Chan Hon Cheong



主厨陈汉章







Braised sea cucumber with shrimp mousse,

Pumpkin and chicken broth, crystal

Steamed sustainable giant garoupa fillet

deep-fried pigeon egg, and gold leaf

blue prawns, morel mushrooms,

with bamboo piths, bean curd sheet,

金龙吐珠－虾子凤尾镶辽参

steamed egg white

and fermented rice wine sauce

金汤芙蓉鲜虾羹

网网千斤－酒酿竹笙蒸龙趸球

Pork-bone soup may be ubiquitous in

Casting his sights beyond Guangdong

Inspired by a dish titled The Black Dragon Spits Out Pearls, a delicacy dating back to the imperial menus of the Qing dynasty, chef Chan’s updated version combines prawns from France and Vietnam with Japanese Kanto sea cucumber topped with a flavorsome sauce of abalone and shrimp roe. The meat of French blue prawns is selected for its sweetness; Vietnamese mangrove prawns are chosen for their silky texture in the shrimp mousse. To complete the dish, locally grown pigeon eggs, with a pearl-like translucence and a lower cholesterol level than that of quail eggs, are lightly deep-fried and garnished with a dusting of spiced salt.

Cantonese cuisine, but chef Chan prefers to get creative with thickened chicken stock instead. The broth’s sticky, collagen-rich texture, he explains, imparts an added smoothness, and the addition of Japanese pumpkin enhances the soup’s sweet flavor.

Plump morel mushrooms lend an exotic luxe touch, and blue prawns, sweet peas, and silken steamed egg whites complement the harmony of textures in every mouthful.

陈师傅自清朝宫廷料理「乌龙吐珠」汲取灵感，重

province for inspiration, chef Chan’s play on the traditional Shanghainese dish of Reeves shad steamed with rice wine sauce consists of plump, collagen-rich giant garoupa wrapped in bamboo piths to retain its springy succulence. The aromatic mélange is then set on a bed of bean curd sheets with cordyceps flowers and fermented rice wine sauce, which helps to absorb the dish’s rich flavor and adds distinctive texture. 陈师傅的眼光不仅限于广东省，更进军上海

新改良后，先放上日本关东刺参，再搭配来自法国

猪骨汤在粤菜中很常见，但陈师傅却以浓厚鸡

菜领域，玩转传统的沪菜酒酿蒸鲥鱼。他以

及越南的两种虾子，最后铺上一层风味满点的鲍鱼

汤取代猪骨作为这道料理的汤底。他解释，

竹笙裹住肥美且富含胶质的石斑，保留弹牙

虾籽酱。选用法国蓝虾主要取其香甜，而肉质爽口

鸡汤黏稠、富含胶质，口感柔滑，而日本南瓜

口感及肉汁，然后将此一香气四溢的新鲜

的越南红树林虾则制成柔软的虾慕斯。最后加上本

则可提升高汤的甜味。羊肚菌尝来有种异国

组合置于炸素千层上，搭配虫草花及酒酿

地产、质地如珍珠般剔透的白鸽蛋，其胆固醇含量

的奢华口感，加上蓝虾、甜豆及滑嫩的蒸蛋

酱汁，这酱汁不仅有助于吸收这道菜浓郁

又低于鹌鹑蛋，稍微过炸，洒点椒盐即可上桌。

白，每一口都吃得到不同食材交织的美味。

的精华，也增添了与众不同的独特口感。 the first five years

|

TK |

189

调出世界之巅

shakedown shake-up Three of Hong Kong’s finest mix it up for a ticket to the World Class Global Final.

190

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

THE BATTLE ROYAL is coming to a head in Taikoo Place.

After a set of final-round challenges that included food pairing, blind whisky tasting, and a ten-minute speed round, the three finalists of the 2017 Hong Kong and Macau World Class cocktail competition face their final contest, the Shakedown. Each equipped with an adequate budget and access to a

DAVID HARTUNG

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

production team, they’ll have seventy-two hours to design, build, and operate their own pop-up bars on the brick-lined plaza at the eastern end of Tong Chong Street.

It’s a test the likes of which none of the finalists has experienced before. “When I read about the pop-up bars they did in last year’s global finals,” says Alexander Ko of The Woods, “I thought, God, I wish I could

do that! I’ll tell you, I’ve spent seventeen hours a day preparing for this last round, but it has been good fun.”

“It’s really tough to create your own bar,” adds Samuel Kwok of Quinary. “I work behind the bar – I don’t know anything about how to design one. I didn’t know what props were available or what concepts would help on the mood board.”

But Kwok, together with his production team, has managed, nevertheless, to flesh out his ideas into a completed concept over the first thirty-six hours.

With mood boards reviewed, backdrops assembled, prop stores raided, drinks menus finalized, equipment arranged, and ingredients prepped, the contestants have raced against the clock and now, their counters manned, are ready to endure the final test of serving the official judges as well as more than three hundred members of the public voting for the People’s Choice Award.

“It isn’t easy to choose the drinks, either,” says Lok Cheung of Angel’s Share.

“Of course they have to taste good, but the judges are also looking at the story behind the drinks, how you can connect them with the bar, and what you present to the judges and the guests.”

First up is what’s called the championship serve, exclusively for judges, that must tell a strong story related to the bar concept and at the same time showcase the bartender’s skills and technique. Then, when the event opens to the public, the finalists and their assistants must manage the crowd and serve them two cocktails: a guest signature serve and a punch. Each contestant is judged on the pop-up concept, the design, the service, and the drinks themselves.

“The challenge is a combination of all the things we do day to day,” says Ko. “Design, logistics, setup, maintenance – all these different aspects of the job that are normally split up are condensed into an incredibly short period of time. It’s tough, but that’s what makes this a competition for Hong Kong’s best.”

经过佐餐调酒、盲品威士忌以及十分钟 限时调酒等一系列比赛回合后，三位调 酒师于 2017 年 World Class 港澳区调酒 比赛脱颖而出，晋级 Shakedown 调酒决 赛。每位选手将各自获配一笔预算，并 组成团队，在 72 小时内在糖厂街东端的 红砖广场内设置经营自己的快闪酒吧。 对决赛选手们而言，这可是一场前 所未有的考验。 The Woods 的 Alexander Ko 说 ： 「我听说去年全球总决赛是快闪 酒吧时，心想『天呐！真希望我也能参 与！』你知道吗，为了准备这最终回合， 我每天花了 17 个小时，但是过程有趣极 了！」 Quinary 的 Samuel Kwok 则 表 示 ： 「自己打造酒吧真的很难，我一直只担当 调酒师的角色，对于怎么设计一间酒吧， 有哪些道具可用，哪些概念有助营造气 氛并不知晓。」尽管如此，Samuel 与制 作团队成功地花了 36 小时便将心中的创 意想法完整地付诸实行。 三位选手们与时间赛跑，分别搜集 素材，思考氛围，组装背板，选购道具， 决定饮品菜单，排列设备，准备食材， 直到一切就绪。准备完成后，他们终于 能站在吧台前准备迎接港澳区最终挑战。 除了准备比赛评审用调酒，选手们还要 角逐由逾三百位现场观众投票选出的最 高人气奖。 Angel’s Share 的 Lok Cheung 说 ： 「选 择饮品一点也不容易。美味可口是必然 的，然而评审还会考虑饮品背后的理念， 思考调酒师如何设定饮品与酒吧的联系， 还将根据饮品呈现给评审和来宾的外观 来评分。」 选手们先要准备只为评审评分用的 「冠军调酒」，此款调酒必须呈现出跟酒 吧设计相关的理念，同时还要展现调酒 师的技巧与手法。踏入傍晚，酒吧便开 放给大众进场，这时选手和助手们就必 须为进场观众调配招牌调酒和宾治类调 酒等两款鸡尾酒。来宾将基于快闪酒吧 的理念、整体设计、服务、饮质量量来 评分。 Alexander 认为 ： 「最终战是我们日以 继夜准备工作的总和。摊位设计、运输、 搭建及维护等工作一般是分开处理的， 但这次我们却需要把所有工作都浓缩在 一段极短的时间内完成。挑战很艰巨， 但这也将是香港站最精彩的一战。 」 THE FIRST FIVE YEARS | TK |

191

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

SAMUEL KWOK

Canvas & Co

2017 World Class Hong Kong & Macau Bartender of the Year 2017 Diageo World Class 世界顶尖调酒大赛港澳区冠军

AFTER AN EARLIER ROUND in the competition, Samuel Kwok asked one of the judges for feedback and suggestions for improvement. “Be yourself,” he was told. “That advice came back to me when I made it to the Shakedown challenge,” says Kwok.

“So I decided to use my own story for the pop-up concept.”

The result is Canvas & Co, a pop-up bar and tattoo shop where guests can partake of liquid courage while observing the

192

|

TK | the first five years

work of the resident tattoo artist and perhaps awaiting their own turn. Kwok boldly asserts the challenge on his drinks menu: “A man can be as versatile as a blank canvas.

Be it on your skin or your palate, have the courage to paint with bold strokes of vivid color.”

Canvas & Co is Kwok’s narrative about the merging of his two passions, cocktails and tattoos, both platforms for sharing his stories. Photos of tattoo art – some his

own – adorn the backdrop, along with an illustration of a deer head that he’s considering for his next tattoo. Kwok’s right arm is covered by a sleeve tattoo that represents his sense of family and depicts the characters from his favorite childhood movie, Pom Poko , about shape-shifting raccoons who band together to protect their family and homeland. Not coincidentally, Kwok has named his guest signature serve after the film. The drink starts with a Tom Collins and introduces the Hong Kong flavors of oolong tea cordial with black plums, osmanthus flowers, and haw flakes. Guests have the option of “shape shifting” their drink into a more lemon-tea-flavored cocktail by replacing Ketel One Vodka with Ketel One Citroen.

But it’s his judges’ championship serve that means the most to Kwok. “A Man’s

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Man was my entrance cocktail to this year’s competition,” he says, “and I wanted to use this for the finish as well. The cocktail features Zacapa 23, Talisker 10 Years Old, sweet vermouth,

比赛前一轮竞赛结束后，Samuel Kwok 曾向

述会变身术的浣熊团结起来保家卫国的故事。

其中一位评审请教可改进之建议。他说 ： 「评 审要我做自己。晋级 Shakedown 决赛时，我

Samuel 为客人准备的鸡尾酒就以这部电影命 名。这款调酒以 Tom Collins 开头，而后带入

想起了这项建议，因此决定用自己的故事作

混和乌莓、桂花、山楂饼的甜香乌龙茶酒，

为我的快闪酒吧理念。 」

充满香港味。来宾还可选择用 Ketel One 柠檬

PX sherry, cold-brew coffee, and choc-

最终成品「Canvas & Co」结合酒吧和纹

olate bitters and is poured into a glass coated with smoke from a burnt coffee bean and served with dried cranberries, red currants, and soya sauce crackers.

“A M an’s M an tel ls the story behind being a man and of how you should have the courage to make big decisions in your life,” says Kwok. “You wouldn’t be a whole person if you only took candy in your life. So, like the cocktail, you need some bitter and sour to go along with the sweet.”

身服务，来宾能借酒精壮胆，一边观察刺青 艺术家的作品，一边等候饮品。Samuel 大胆

味伏特加取代 Ketel One 伏特加，让调酒摇身 一变，更具柠檬茶风味 。 然而对 Samuel 意义最重大的，非评审

地在饮品单上写着 ： 「人生就如同空白画布，

用的冠军调酒莫属。他说 ： 「 『A Man’s Man』

充满无限可能。在皮肤上，在味蕾上，勇敢

是 我 今 年 参 赛 的 第 一 款 酒， 我 也 想 用 它 做

地挥洒鲜艳色彩吧！」

结。 」这款鸡尾酒以 Zacapa 23 顶级兰姆酒、 Talisker 10 年 单 一 纯 麦 威 士 忌、 甜 苦 艾 酒、

「Canvas & Co」 的 哲 学 理 念 结 合 了

Samuel 的两大热爱 ：鸡尾酒和刺青，两者都

PX 雪利酒、冷泡咖啡和巧克力苦酒调制而成，

是他尽情挥洒的画布。酒吧背板以纹身作品

再倒入以焦咖啡豆烟熏过的酒杯，佐以蔓越

的照片装饰，当中包括他自己的作品，其中

梅干、红葡萄干干和酱油仙贝。

还有一张鹿头的插图，是他考虑下次刺青的

「 『A Man’s Man』代表人生的故事－一个

主题。Samuel 右臂满满的纹身图案代表了他

人如何鼓起勇气做出重大的人生决定。如果

对家庭的感受，甚至有他童年时期最喜欢电

人生中只有欢笑，这个人就不完整，就跟鸡

影「平成狸合战 Pom Poko」的角色，故事讲

尾酒一样，除了甜以外，还要一点苦、一点酸。 」 the first five years

|

TK |

193

LOK CHEUNG

M Bar

People’s Choice Award Winner 最高人气奖得主

THE TEXTURED GREY and gold backdrop of Lok Cheung’s popup, M Bar, features a single oversized framed photo of a hand cradling a martini glass. It’s a moment in time that could have been captured at any bar. But over the course of the evening, the backdrop changes, evolving as individual moments are created, shared, and forged into distinct and unforgettable memories of this very night at this very bar.

“No bar or bartender can function without guests,” says Cheung, “and I wanted a way to let my guests’ moments and memories become a part of ours. So I brought a Polaroid camera for guests to take two pictures with, one to keep for their own memories and one to add to the wall for ours.” It’s little wonder, with such an appealing approach, that Cheung’s pop-up concept is selected for the competition’s People’s Choice Award.

For the judges’ champion serve, Cheung presents Grey and Gold, a blend of Talisker 10 Years Old, bergamot, and osmanthus syrup with a trail of sandalwood incense powder sprinkled around it. “The osmanthus and sandalwood represent my origins in Hong Kong,” explains Cheung. “The city’s name, which translates literally as ‘fragrant harbor,’ came about when it was recognized as a major trading port for sandalwood.

“But I named this Grey and Gold for the moments we face as bartenders. There’ll be grey ones that make us sad and confused and make us want to give up. But if we persist, the greatest ones will come to us – like this World Class competition or when we’re able to make our guests smile. Those are the gold moments.”

Lok Cheung 的快闪酒吧 M Bar 以极富质感的 灰色与金色为背景，而最引人瞩目的就是一 张特大的裱框照片，里头是一只手小心翼翼 地捧着一只马丁尼酒杯，这一幕在任何酒吧 都可能上演。但这一晚，随着时间更迭，每 位宾客独特时分的创造与分享，改变了这片 背板，演变成这间酒吧独一无二、永难忘怀 的回忆。 「任何一家酒吧和调酒师都需要 Lok 说 ： 来宾。我想用某种方式让宾客的难忘时刻和 回忆变成我们的一部分，所以我带了一台拍 立得相机，让宾客拍照片，一张给他们留存 做纪念，另一张贴在我们墙上。 」果不其然， 如此平易近人的做法让 Lok 的快闪酒吧收获 了最高人气奖。 而 Lok 准备的评审用冠军调酒名为「Grey and Gold( 灰与金 )」，以 Talisker 10 年单一纯 麦威士忌、佛手柑、桂花糖浆调和而成，周 「桂花和 围撒上一圈檀香木粉。Lok 解释道 ： 檀木代表我生长的香港。香港的名称字面翻 译的意思就是有香味的港口，香港原本是交 易檀木的主要港口。 」 「 但 我 将 这 款 酒 命 名 为『Grey Lok 说 ： and Gold』，指的是身为调酒师的我们面临的 时刻。灰暗时刻让我们伤心、困惑、想放弃， 但如果坚持下去，最棒的时刻就会到来，就 像投身 World Class 世界调酒大赛或让宾客绽 放微笑之时，就是我们的金色时刻。 」

194

|

TK | the first five years

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

ALEXANDER KO

The Harbour

Winner of The Walker Blending Challenge Johnnie Walker 调酒大赛优胜者

ALEXANDER KO is as detail-oriented as they come.

Having set his sights on mastering the world of whisky, he has spent the past two years reading up on its production and practicing blind tastings. “I have eight bottles of whisky at home right now,” he says, “and I’ve tasted and tasted and tasted them and I’ve studied and studied and studied.” Ko’s hard work finally paid off with a firstplace finish in the final-round whisky challenge, where he correctly identified three of the blended whisky’s components to within 10 percent of their exact proportions. “It was,” he proclaims, “a challenge hard fought and won.”

Ko brings the same work ethic to the Shakedown competition, where he has hand cut and mounted his own design for the backdrop of his pop-up bar, The Harbour. The concept is built around an ocean theme, affording guests mental and physical refreshment from Hong Kong’s oppressive heat. “I knew it was going to be sweltering,” he says, “so I wanted to design something open and bright with elements from the beach and a cool blue color palette.”

In the same vein, the drinks themselves are carefully crafted for maximum quaffability. For his punch, named Aquifer, Ko clarifies the grapefruit juice to achieve a satin-smooth mouthfeel that goes down easily. For the guest signature serve, Intertidal, kombu syrup acts as a flavor enhancer, imparting a savory note and a silky finish that make for a moreish, easy-drinking cocktail.

For Beachwalker, the judges’ championship serve, Ko first coconut-fat-washes Johnnie Walker Gold Label to retain the coconut’s essential flavor while stripping out its heavy creaminess. He then combines the fat-washed whisky with pineapple juice, PX sherry, crème de cacao, and lime juice for a lighter tropical drink. “I wanted to invoke the beach visually as well,” says Ko. “When you look at the drink, you have that nice foam on top, and I garnished it with mint leaves and pink peppercorns to represent palm trees and the sunset on the sand.”

行事风格一丝不苟、巨细弥遗的 Alexander Ko 立志成为世界威士忌 大师，过去两年，他苦心造诣，练习盲品。他说 ： 「我家里有八瓶威 士忌，每一瓶我都品尝研究过无数次。 」终究皇天不负苦心人，在第 一轮威士忌竞赛中，他正确地辨识出三种调和威士忌的成分，且正确 领先对手。 他形容： 「这场胜仗真的得来不易。 」 比例误差值在 10% 以内，

Alexander 如此严谨的工作态度，也展现在 Shakedown 决赛里。 他亲手为自己的快闪酒吧 The Harbour 设计裁切背板，以海洋为题 的设计理念在燠热的香港格外令人身心舒畅。他说 ： 「我知道天气会 很炎热，所以想用海滩的元素和清凉的蓝色调来设计，开放又明亮。 」 而他的饮品也呈现同样风格，精心设计下全都沁人心脾。以

Aquifer 为名的宴会调酒以清澈葡萄柚汁调制出诱人畅饮的丝滑口 感，招牌调酒 Intertidal 则以昆布糖酱增强味道，咸咸的味道增添一

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

股悠长细致的余韵，让人喝了还想再喝。 而 评 审 用 冠 军 调 酒 Beachwalker，Alexander 先 为 Johnnie Walker 金牌威士忌去掉沉重的乳脂感，同时保留独有的椰子香味。 接着他再将脱脂威士忌调和凤梨汁、PX 雪莉酒、可可酒、莱姆汁， 制成口感轻盈的热带饮品。他说 ： 「我也想观众从视觉上就能联想到 海滩。你看这款酒，顶端有着美丽的泡沫，薄荷叶和粉红色胡椒装 饰则分别代表沙滩上的棕榈树和夕阳。 」 the first five years

|

TK |

195

PRESENTED BY

美丽人生

la bella vita At HOFEX 2017, the Italian Trade Commission celebrates the art and science of eating Mediterranean style.

“THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET is about moder-

ation and balance, variety and seasonality,” says Dr. Licia Iacoviello. “And it’s even about conviviality, because eating is a social habit, and the way you eat is also important to your health.”

A leading researcher on the role of diet in the development of cancer and cardiovascular, cerebrovascular, and metabolic diseases, Dr. Iacoviello was invited by the Italian Trade Commission and Barilla to be guest speaker at a seminar and cooking demonstration on the Mediterranean Nutrition Model at HOFEX 2017. The commission, through its presentations, trade missions to Italy, and exhibits like the Italian Pavilion at HOFEX, continues to spotlight the foods and wines of Italy.

Recently, Dr. Iacoviello’s studies have

Dr. Licia Iacoviello

focused on the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet. “There are no foods that are forbidden,” she explains. “It’s a way of selecting certain fresh foods with a certain frequency and cooking them in a certain way. Such a diet is associated with a lower incidence of several conditions, including cardiovascular disease and cancer.”

Multiple servings of fruits and vegetables are required every day, as well as complex carbohydrates, preferably in the form of wholegrain cereals, comprising around 10 percent of caloric needs. Red meat occasionally is fine, but fish and legumes are the preferred protein sources, and extra virgin olive oil replaces butter or other animal fats. Red wine can also be beneficial in moderation.

“You can’t eat a ton of red meat because you cooked it in olive oil,” says Dr. Iacoviello.

“And you can’t look at a food individually and expect it to solve your health problems, like a drug. You have to consider all the foods together.” She references chef from Barilla Andrea Tranchero’s demoed dish of penne rigate with prawns, zucchini, and artichoke bruschetta as an exemplar, a combination of seafood and vegetables cooked in olive oil and tossed with an appropriate amount of pasta. “If you eat pasta cooked al dente, along with vegetables, fish, and olive oil, its glycemic index will actually decrease.”

This healthy way of eating has maintained worldwide popularity since its rise to recognition decades ago, largely because it champions fresh foods, simple cooking, and wine in moderation, all enjoyed in relaxed and congenial surroundings. According to Dr. Iacoviello, “The Mediterranean diet is a lifestyle.”

身 为 癌 症、 心 血 管、 脑 血 管 及 代 谢 疾 病 研 究 权 威 的 Licia Iacoviello 博 士 受意大利商务专员公署 (Italian Trade Commission) 以及著名意大利面品牌 百 味 来 (Barilla) 之 邀， 担 任 2017 年 「HOFEX 国际食品餐饮及酒店设备展」 的「地中海饮食营养架构」研讨会及 烹饪示范活动演讲嘉宾。意大利商务 专员公署多年来藉由推广说明、率团 访问意大利，以及在类似 HOFEX 等 展会设置意大利国家馆等方法，持续 推广意国的美食及各式酒品。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Iacoviello 博士开宗明义说道，地中海 料理以适量均衡、多元及季节性为特色。 她认为 ： 「同时也要吃得开心，毕竟饮食是 一种社会习惯，每个人饮食方式对于健康 有极大影响。」Iacoviello 博士最近以地中海 饮食的健康益处为研究主题，她解释 ： 「没 有什么禁忌的食物，只需选择特定的新鲜 食材，跟从特定的饮食规律，再使用特定 烹煮方式罢了，就这么简单。这种饮食方 式有助于降低心血管疾病及癌症等的发病 机率。」 摄取多份水果及蔬菜为每日必须。复

合式碳水化合物也不可或缺，尤以全谷麦 片为佳，以供应一成的热量所需为准。红 肉偶尔为之即可，鱼肉及豆类为较佳蛋白 质来源，另可用特级初榨橄榄油取代奶油 或其他动物性油脂。适量饮用红酒也对健 康有益。 她也强调 ： 「但可不能因为是用橄榄油 烹煮，就毫无节制地吃红肉，也不要指望 摄取单一食物能像吃药一样，解决个人健 康上的疑难杂症，把所有食物组合一起考 量才是正确的作法。」 她 以 百 味 来 的 大 厨 Andrea Tranchero

现场示范的虾肉栉瓜长通粉及朝鲜蓟普切 塔 为 例， 这 道 菜 是 先 用 橄 榄 油 烹 煮 海 鲜 及蔬菜，然后加入适量长通粉充分混和。 Iacoviello 博士指出 ： 「面条煮到弹牙，搭配 蔬菜、鱼肉及橄榄油下肚，这样可降低面 条的升糖指数。」 地中海风格健康饮食于数十年前崛起， 至今在世界各地仍有大量拥护者。以新鲜 食材为主角、简单烹调、适量饮酒，加上 可在轻松愉悦的气氛中进食，难怪受欢迎 的程度长年不减。如 Iacoviello 博士所说： 「地 中海饮食就是一种生活风格」。 the first five years

|

TK |

197

SUBSCRIBE 25% off

$360 $270 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

contact information name

address

postal code

country

Kindly return the completed form to: Fax +852 3748 3738

company name

title

Mail Tasting Kitchen

phone

fax

Attention: Terrie Lam 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong

email

Please make checks payable to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.�

Tel +852 3748 3756

198

|

TK | THE FIRST FIVE YEARS

RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

One Harbour Road 港湾壹号

Yamazato 山里

Cantonese 7th and 8th Floors, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Hong Kong 香港港湾道1号香港君悦酒店 7及8楼 q +852 2584 7722 Lunch: Mon-Sat: 12:00-14:30; Sun: 10:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 A Smart Casual

Japanese 28/F, Hotel Okura Macau, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹大仓酒店28楼 q +853 8883 5127 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 17:30-22:00 (Closed on Mondays)

5

Lai Heen 丽轩 Chinese q 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹丽思卡尔顿酒店51楼 q +853 8886 6712 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30; Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: Mon-Fri: 18:00-22:30; Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 18:00-22:30 5

5

Robuchon au Dôme 天巢法国 餐厅 French 43/F, Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau 澳门葡京路新葡京酒店43楼 q +853 8803 7878 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 5

Oyster & Wine Bar 蚝酒吧

Stockton

Seafood Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels & Towers, 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港九龙弥敦道20号喜来登酒 店18楼 q +852 2369 1111 H www.sheratonhongkonghotel. com/oysterandwinebar Sun-Thu: 18:30-23:00 Fri-Sat: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Sunday Champagne Brunch Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut: HK$998/person Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé: HK$1,298/person Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs: HK$1,498/person Every Sunday: 12:00–15:00

5

5

Studio Club Bar & Lounge 1/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环安庆台1号安庆大厦1楼 H www.studioclub.asia Tues-Sun 18:00-04:00 Featured Cocktail Prices A.M. $140 Wild Flowers $120 5

Western 32 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街32号 q +852 2565 5268 H www.stockton.com.hk Mon-Wed: 18:00-2:00 Thu-Sat: 18:00-4:00 Featured Cocktail Prices Fizzy Rascal $130 Fiery Ginger $140 The Macabre $130 Vieux Carre $130 Buchanan $140 Cumbria $140

Mott 32 卅二公馆 Chinese Basement, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环德辅道中4-4A号 渣打银行大厦地库 q +852 285 8688 H www.mott32.com Breakfast: 07:00-10:30 Lunch: 11:00-14:30 Dinner: 17:00-22:00 Featured Cocktails Prices Hong Kong Iced Tea $120 Five Spice Sherry $140 5

Angel’s Share

Quinary

The Woods

Bar & Lounge 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环苏豪荷李活道23号金珀苑2楼 q +852 2805 8388 Mon to Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri & Sat: 17:00-03:00

Bar & Lounge 56-58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷李活道56-58号地下 q +852 2851 3223 Mon-Sat: 17:00-01:00

Bar & Lounge 17 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷里活道17号地下 q +852 2522 0281 Mon-Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri & Sat: 18:00- 02:00

5

200

|

TK | the first five years

5

5

RESTAURANT LISTINGS MELCO CROWN SIGNATURE RESTAURANTS Aurora 奥罗拉 Italian Level 10, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路新濠锋10楼 q +853 2886 8868 Lunch: Tue to Sat: 12:00-14:00; Dinner: Tue to Sat: 18:00-22:30; Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:30 A Smart Casual 5

Bi Ying 碧迎居 Chinese Shop 1182, Level 1, Casino at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇娱乐场1楼1182号 q +853 8865 6650 Daily & Public Holidays: 24 hours 5

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩 Cantonese Level 2, The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道二楼 q +853 8868 2822 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear ankle-length trousers and closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

5

Pearl Dragon 玥龙轩 Cantonese q Shop 2111, Level 2, Star Tower at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇酒店巨星汇二楼 2111店 q +853 8865 6560 Mon to Fri: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 Sat to Sun & Public Holidays: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers and closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

5

Shanghai Magic 上海魅影 Shanghainese Shop 2110, Level 2, The Boulevard at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇购物大道二楼2110 店 q +853 8865 6620 Daily & Public Holidays: 12:00-15:00; 17:3023:00 A Smart Casual 5

202

|

TK | the first five years

The Tasting Room 御膳房

Shinji by Kanesaka 金坂极上寿司

French Level 3, Crown Towers at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假 酒店三楼 q +853 8868 6681 Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Closed on Sunday A Smart Casual Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room. Gentlemen should refrain from wearing sleeveless t-shirts, shorts, open shoes (sandals) or slippers.

5

Japanese q Level 1, Crown Towers at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒店 一楼 q +853 8868 7300 Lunch: Wed to Sun: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: Tue to Sun: 18:00-22:00 (Closed on every Monday and Tuesday Lunch) A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers with closed footwear. Children aged twelve years and above are welcome.

Children aged below twelve years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

5

Tenmasa 天政 5

Japanese

q Level 11, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong

Tung, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路澳门新濠锋十一楼 q +853 2886 8868 Tue to Sun: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual

Ying 帝影楼 Cantonese Level 11, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路澳门新濠锋十一楼 q +853 2886 8868 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

坐擁全澳 最多米芝蓮星級食府

THE MOST MICHELIN RESTAURANTS IN MACAU 新濠天地 • CITY OF DREAMS • (853) 8868 6688

新濠影滙 • STUDIO CITY • (853) 8865 8888 新濠鋒 • ALTIRA • (853) 2886 8868

LAST CALL

The A.M., created by Aaron Gurung of Hong Kong’s Studio Club, is a next-level espresso martini, perfect for happy hour after a long day at the office. Expect a sweet, stimulating creation in which fresh espresso takes center stage. Also featured are Absolut Elyx vodka, Avión Espresso, brown sugar, and coffee beans, with a sprinkling of chocolate and a cherry topping things off.

DAVID HARTUNG

雅座酒吧「Studio」的调酒师Aaron Gurung调制的这杯名为「A.M.」的鸡尾酒，是升级版本的浓缩咖啡马 丁尼，尤其适合辛苦工作了一天的上班族，在下班后的欢乐时光享用。 现煮的特浓咖啡将主导这杯鸡尾 酒的韵味，再加入Absolut Elyx，Avión Espresso，黑糖和咖啡豆调和，最后放上巧克力和樱桃作装饰。

204

|

TK | the first five years

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

Austrian wines are invitations.

of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand

Simply open a cellar door to meet the

among the world’s greatest wines and

most approachable international stars

are poured at renowned restaurants all

imaginable: the great wines of Austria.

over the globe.

Produced by true artisans respectful

austrianwine.com

F O O D

I S

A R T.

P R E S E R V E

I T.

In craftsmanship and performance, Sub-Zero is without rival. Its advanced technology keeps food fresher longer.

1-3/f, House of Madison 8 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai Hong Kong. T +852 2239 5000

subzero.com.hk