TK33 Ode to Winter by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 33

O D E

T O

K I T C H E N W I N T E R

HONG KONG

The Extraordinary All Around Us 美味颂诗

MGM COTAI

Spectacular Is Never Off the Menu 永不落幕的盛宴 AUSTRALIA

New Horizons

澳式酿酒新境界

STARTER

Chef de Cuisine Ku Chi Wa of Miàn Duì Miàn at MGM Cotai presents his flavorful signature starter, Chinese Pappardelle Buckwheat Noodles with Stir-Fried Pork, Shanxi Style. “It brings together the best from both the north and south of China,” says Ku. “We’ve captured the special characteristics of the traditional Shanxi noodle broth and changed the pork a bit to meet the palates of southern Chinese.”

TK | ode to winter

DAVID HARTUNG

美狮美高梅「面对面」餐厅总厨古志华呈上一道香气扑鼻的招牌头盘－山西荞麦手擀面配小炒肉。总厨表示：「这道菜结合了中国南北方最好的风味。我们抓住了传统山西面条汤的特点，并稍为改变了猪肉的口味，以适合南方客人的口味。」

T A S T I N G 33

O D E

K I T C H E N

T O

W I N T E R

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

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Inspired by the evocative poetry of Pablo Neruda, Chef Vicky Lau of Hong Kong’s Tate Dining Room & Bar pays elegant homage to what is thought of as an everyday kitchen staple. Ode to the Onion features flaky puff pastry topped with vinegar-glazed pearl onions, pickled onions, and onion cream. Our cover story starts on page 68. 香港「Tate」餐厅主厨刘韵棋深受巴勃罗•聂鲁达的诗集启发，以精致的菜式向厨房常见的食材致敬。她以醋汁珍珠洋葱、腌洋葱及洋葱酱酥皮派组成洋葱颂，歌颂洋葱之美。想了解更多，请翻阅第68页。

TK | ode to winter

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Ode to Winter, we take a deep look into the creative process of one chef, Vicky Lau, founder of Tate Dining Room & Bar and of her recently opened Poem Patisserie. Chefs have always looked outside the culinary universe for sources of inspiration: Massimo Bottura was famously moved to upend the traditions of Italian cuisine by a visit to a modern art museum; Australian chef Peter Gilmore has written books about how the creatures and processes of the natural world influence his menus; and Vicky Lau’s own background as a graphic artist shines through in the elegant presentation of her dishes. But chef Lau’s recent menus have taken on a second layer of inspiration that is literary: the poetry of Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda. Neruda was a master at seeing the extraordinary in the commonplace, at finding symbolism, profound beauty, and deep meaning in life’s everyday objects, including simple kitchen ingredients like salt, the tomato, a chestnut, an eggplant, or an artichoke. Chef Lau, in reading these poems, reflects on the essence of the individual elements in her dishes and on how they can best express themselves. In this issue, we’re proud to share a selection of her creations along with excerpts from Neruda’s poetry and accompanying illustrations by American artist Rebekah Nichols. The result, we think, is a visual and literary celebration. We’re also pleased to share a special preview of the F+B offerings at MGM Cotai, scheduled to open in late January. Earlier this year, our team was able to interview and photograph all of the resort’s star chefs, including several who are represented on the prestigious list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. What MGM Cotai has created is remarkable, going beyond the franchise model to develop a dazzling range of fresh new concepts that promise to enrich the region’s gastronomic culture for years to come. Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

ode to winter

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 10 Yilan Inspiration • 12 Legacy in Lacquer • 16 Seeds of Change 20 Against the Grain • 24 Class Act • 28 Mangia Bene 32 Taiwan on Top • 34 Spectacular Is Never Off the Menu

TK | ode to winter

CONTENTS

68 The Extraordinary All Around Us • 82 Poems of Honey and Flour 92 Street Smart • 94 Modern Opera • 98 When Stars Align 108 New Horizons • 118 A Nose for Greatness 124 L I S T I N G S • 126 D E S S E R T

102

108

116

124

92 120

118 68

108

118 ode to winter

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INSPIRED LIVING

宜兰图腾

yilan inspiration A Taiwanese ceramics designer takes his cues from the rich cultural heritage and fragile natural environment of his native county.

TK | ode to winter

COURTESY SANSHING FOUR SEASONS STUDIO (2)

TIRED OF LIFE IN THE CITY, Che-Jung Lee returned to his hometown of Sanshing to settle down with his wife and young children. While driving one day, a white-breasted bird leading three little black ones dashed across the road in front of his car. “I quickly hit the brakes,” Lee recalls. “Moving forward again, my heart went cold, and I realized that I might have hit one of them.” Later, when visiting a farmers’ association for research, he spied the same white-breasted bird on the cover of a magazine and learned that those he’d seen that day were a waterhen and her chicks, a species indigenous to Taiwan. Today, Lee’s Sanshing Four Seasons Blue & White Pottery Studio, which has been handcrafting award-winning porcelain dinnerware in Taiwan’s Yilan County since 2014, has adopted as its logo the image of a white-breasted waterhen leading her chicks. It pays tribute to that little group and to the fragility of Yilan’s wildlife. “Sanshing is full of natural and cultural features,” Lee explains. “The township is located at the crossroads of mountain, river, and the Lanyang Plain. It’s an ecologically rich area and an important one for aboriginal tribes and their cultures.” The sizes, shapes, and motifs of the vessels created in his studio are inspired by the everyday patterns and activities that Lee sees around him. Through what he calls “field observation” – chatting with village elders, teaching creative arts to local teenagers, drinking tea with neighbors, and documenting wildlife and features in the local landscape through photography and drawing – he envisions the unique designs that are meticulously applied in blue on each porcelain piece. Sets are composed for the Taiwanese dinner table with its emphasis on soups and large portions. “We’re looking for a warm, simple feeling in our products,” Lee explains. “They convey the unique cultural images and the rich food traditions of Yilan so that diners can enjoy the beauty of Yilan’s four seasons on a daily basis.”

李哲荣厌倦了城市的喧嚣，携同妻子和年轻的孩子回到故乡宜兰三星乡定居。有一天李哲荣在开车时，一只肚子白色的鸟领着三只小黑鸟突然从前方接连窜出、穿越马路。李哲荣回想：「我赶紧踩煞车，再往前行驶时，我」心中一凉，想着我可能会撞到跑在最后的那只小黑鸟。李哲荣后来参访农会时，无意间瞥见一本杂志封面，正印着那只白色肚子的鸟，才知道原来自己那天撞见的是台湾原生种鸟类白腹秧鸡与它的小孩。位于台湾宜兰县的「三星四季青花瓷」文创工作坊创立于 2014 年，工作坊出品的手工陶瓷餐具屡获大奖，而现在使用的商标正是一只白腹秧鸡带着三只小鸡的图案。商标图案旨在纪念李哲荣那天遇到的白腹秧鸡小家庭，同时也希望让人注意到宜兰野生动物的脆弱生命。李哲荣指出：「三星乡位于山脉、河流和兰阳平原的交界处，有丰富的文化特色和自然景观。三星的生态多样且丰富，对原住民部落和他们的文化来说，也是重要的地区。」三星四季青花瓷工作坊打造的瓷器，不论是大小、形状或花纹的设计，灵感全都来自李哲荣对自己周而复始的日常生活的细腻观察。李哲荣总是在进行自己所谓的「田野调查」—— 与村里耆老闲聊、替当地青少年上艺术创作课程、和邻居喝杯茶，或是用照片及绘画记录当地自然风景和野生动物。这一切都在李哲荣的心中升华为设计灵感，最终成为勾勒在每件瓷器上独特的青花图案。成套的瓷器专为台湾餐桌打造，适合盛装汤品和大份量的菜式。李哲荣表示：「我们希望创作的产品给人一种温暖又纯朴的感觉，瓷器的图腾象征宜兰独特的文化以及美食传统，让你在日常生活的餐桌上，享受宜兰的四季之美。」 ode to winter

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INSPIRED LIVING

漆器文化传承

legacy in lacquer Two young designers are taking home top awards for their innovative Taiwanese tableware.

TK | ode to winter

百百百百百百

fibrewood headline

COURTESY STUDIO LIM (2)

ABerum sitam et verum doluptae il Adele volupti dit earum abor rehenim agnam, suntem venis corem

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

COURTESY STUDIO LIM

INSPIRED LIVING

FEW PEOPLE IN TAIWAN remember that Fengyuan, a medium-sized city in central Taiwan, was once a major producer of traditional lacquerware products. The industry had come about during Japanese colonial rule at the turn of the twentieth century when the township was the center of the island’s timber industry. The Japanese, rather than exporting the wood to Japan for the lacquered tableware indispensable to homes of the era, taught the craft of lacquerware to Fengyuan locals. As recently as the 1960s and ’70s, thousands of people were still employed in the industry. But when the wood supply dried up because of government bans on timber harvesting, and labor costs in Taiwan continued to rise, the industry gradually disappeared. It was this historical legacy in lacquer, however, as well as Taiwan’s vibrant manufacturing sector, that inspired Yun-Ting Lin, a young Fengyuan native. When he returned home from London in 2015 after studying product design at the Royal College of Art, he and Patricia Lip, his Hong Kong–born design partner, soon launched their first tableware collection under their newly established brand, Studio Lim. “In my passport,” says Lin, “my family name is spelled with an ‘n,’ but we decided to use Lim because it’s the Taiwanese spelling and I wanted to emphasize that heritage. We paired it with the word ‘studio’ because we wanted the company to be more creative and not just a brand.” Lin came back to Taiwan with a new material he’d been experimenting with during his studies. First developed by a researcher at Imperial College London and dubbed “fibrewood” by Lin and Lip, it’s made of compressed flax fibers dyed in various colors. Strong, sustainable, and biodegradable, the material when coated with lacquer is also food safe, water resistant, and able to withstand temperatures as high as 100°C. “At the beginning,” Lin explains, “we tried to develop it into furniture, even speakers, but after I came home to Taiwan, I started thinking about what other kinds of products we could make. When I decided to pair it with the craft of lacquerware, tableware immediately came to mind. There are very few materials that are food safe and suitable for tableware, so that was the big advantage.” Studio Lim launched its first products in the Fibrewood Objects collection, a set of dessert plates and coasters, at the Taiwan Creative Expo last April. Today, the collection has expanded to include serving trays and accessories organizers. In late 2017, the Studio Lim team took home the highest design accolade in Taiwan, a Golden Pin Design Award Best Design trophy. Sustainability is the driving force behind all of Studio Lim’s creations. Every piece in the collection is biodegradable once the lacquer coating is compromised, and the wood chips incorporated into some of the products as decoration are upcycled waste material from Taiwan’s timber industry. “When I was at university, we were taught that designers solve problems, that design is trying to make our lives better,” Lin says. “That was the starting point for us. Ever since then, it’s been important to create products that are eco-friendly, products that will be good for our future.”

丰原，一个位于台湾中部的中型城市，鲜少人记得这里曾是台湾主要的漆器制造地。漆器产业在二十世纪初日治时期最为兴盛，当时丰原正好位于整个岛上林业最发达之地。那时候，日本人并未将林木运回国内制造家家户户不可或缺的漆器餐具，反而是将漆器技术传授予丰原人。直到 60 至 70 年代，仍有数千人任职于漆器业。后来政府颁布禁伐令导致林木资源缺乏，而台湾人力成本也节节攀升，漆器产业才渐趋式微。这样的历史背景加上台湾制造业的蓬勃发展，让土生土长的年轻丰原人林昀廷 (Yun-Ting

Lin) 有了新的启发。2015 年，在英国皇家艺术学院主修产品设计返乡后，林昀廷与香港设计师聂嘉希共同创立品牌 Studio Lim，并旋即推出旗下第一款餐具系列。林昀廷说：「如果看护照的名字，会发现我的英文姓 Lin 结尾是一个 n，但我想强调台湾本土精神，因此品牌命名选用台语拼音 Lim。以我的姓加上 studio 作为品牌名称，是希望我们的公司不只是一个品牌，还是一个颇具创意的工作室。」林昀廷从英国带回在校内的试验用材料，那是由伦敦帝国学院研究人员率先开发，以经过压缩的亚麻纤维染色后制成，而林昀廷跟聂嘉希称之为「纤维木器」。这种材料强韧、耐用，还可生物分解，即使上漆后亦符合食品安全，且具备防水功能，耐热高达 100°C。林昀廷解释：「我们最一开始是尝试将纤维木器应用于家具，甚至喇叭上，但回到台湾后，我开始思考制造其他产品的可能性。当决定与漆器工艺结合，餐具的概念便马上浮现。鲜少有材料既符合食品安全，又适合作为餐具，因此这将是很大的优势。」去年四月，在台湾文博会上，Studio Lim 首次推出纤维木器系列的第一波产品，包括点心盘与杯垫。时至今日，这个系列已扩展到包含托盘以及收纳柜。2017 年底，旗下团队还赢得台湾设计界最高荣耀－金点设计年度最佳设计奖。永续性是 Studio Lim 公司产品背后的核心原动力。每件系列产品，经过脱漆处理后，都可被生物分解，而某些产品上的木制装饰，都是台湾林业废弃材料的再次利用。林昀廷说：「我在英国求学时，老师们总说设计师能解决问题，设计的作品能让生活更加美好，这也是我们公司成立的初衷。从那时起，我们就致力于设计环保且有利于未来发展的产品。」 ode to winter

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创意变革

seeds of change

“Petit farcis” pepper and tomato from chef David Kinch of restaurant Manresa, served on a sculptured walnut spoon by Julian Watts 「Manresa」餐厅 David Kinch 准备的「Petit Farcis」由辣椒和西红柿组成，放在Julian Watts 雕刻的胡桃木勺子上桌。

ERIC WOLFINGER FOR STEINBEISSER

A revolutionary plantbased food initiative is working to unite design, fine dining, and nature.

ERIC WOLFINGER FOR STEINBEISSER

FOOD + DESIGN

EXPERIMENTAL GASTRONOMY is an ongoing dining series that challenges the ways diners and chefs think about food: its production, its impact on health, and the eating experience itself. The cross-disciplinary project was launched in 2012 by Steinbeisser, a curatorial collaborative founded by Martin Kullik and Jouw Wijnsma and headquartered in the Lloyd Hotel & Cultural Embassy in Amsterdam. Prior to Experimental Gastronomy, both Kullik and Wijnsma had worked together on boundary-pushing art projects, from contemporary jewelry exhibitions to multidisciplinary dance performances. When Kullik went vegan five years ago, his research into what was involved in plant-based and sustainable food led the pair to consider how they could combine their passion for applied arts and design with their new enthusiasm for sustainable dining. Experimental Gastronomy now features such trendsetting chefs as California’s David Kinch, Basel-based Tanja Grandits, and Netherlands native Edwin Vinke. But starting out, Kullik recalls, Steinbeisser worked mostly with local chefs who were cooking “more from a health-food perspective.” The focus of these early events fell predominantly on the art. “Until 2014, I’d never heard of Michelin, I’d never heard of Gault Millau, I didn’t know what the World’s 50 Best was,” he says. It was a meeting with leading local food critic Mac van Dinther and his recommendation that they reach out to two acclaimed local chefs that propelled the project into a “totally new universe.”

实验美食法 (Experimental Gastronomy) 是一系列实验性餐饮活动，挑战宾客与厨师们对食物的想像，活动囊括食物的制造过程、对健康的影响以及用餐体验。这项跨领域计划在 2012 年首次推行，创办机构 Steinbeisser 是由 Martin Kullik 和 Jouw Wijnsma 共同成立的合作策划公司，总部位于阿姆斯特丹的劳埃德酒店。在启动这个活动之前，Martin 跟 Jouw 已在挑战极限的艺术计划中有过合作，如现代珠宝展览以及多元领域舞蹈表演等等。五年前，Martin 成为了素食者。当时，他所研究的植物性永续食物让他们两人不禁思考，该如何将对应用艺术与设计的热情和永续饮食这个新爱好结合。多位引领潮流的厨师都曾参与 Experimental Gastronomy，包括来自加州的 David Kinch、巴赛尔的 Tanja Grandits，还有土生土长的荷兰人 Edwin Vinke。Martin 回想 Steinbeisser 草创时期，合作的当地厨师大多是用「偏向健康饮食观念」的料理手法。前期活动注重于艺术的表现，他说：「直到 2014 年，我才第一次听到米其林，也不知道何」后来经过某次谓高特米鲁及世界 50 最佳餐厅。和当地领衔美食评论家 Mac van Dinther 访谈并听取建议后，才得以进一步获得两位当地赫赫有名

Rice with assorted condiments from Corey Lee, chef of Benu, served on a reassembled broken ceramic plate by Felt+Fat Felt + Fath所制的碎片造型陶瓷餐盘上的是由「Benu」餐厅 Corey Lee 所烹调的大米及各式调味品。 ode to winter

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Transformed antique sterling silver cutlery by Brian Weissman 由 Brian Weissman 所设计的变形古董纯银餐具。

Champignons and hazelnut from chef Andreas Rieger of restaurant einsunternull served on an aluminium foil glass plate by Dovilė Bernadišiūtė with a folded knife by Nils Hint 「einsunternull」餐厅的 Andreas Rieger 精心准备了香菇和榛子，别致地放在Dovile Bernadisiute的铝箔玻璃餐盘上，配搭Nils Hint的折刀。

TK | ode to winter

Dirk Aleksic 所设计的餐盘上装着洋葱，碗豆和亚麻荠籽油，旁边的是 Nils Hint 双匙。

的厨师鼎力相助，将整个计划提升到完全不同的层次。大会规定，每位参加 Experimental Gastronomy 动力法栽培的全素食，而且所有呈上桌的菜肴必须选「如果使用当地的生物动力用当地食材。Martin 说：植物性食材，做出来的菜式是非常具永续性的。听起来很难实行，但是并非不可能。我想，对许多厨师来说，这也是一种跳脱日常烹饪模式的有趣挑战。」

Steinbeisser 公司也担任起侦查兵的角色，为参加活动的厨师们找出更丰富多元的食材选择。参加活动的艺术家们，包括珠宝商、玻璃艺术家、陶艺家等等，个个都专精于现代工艺，也都需迎接各自的挑战。厨师们通常希望使用的餐具具备功能性，但 Martin 和 Jouw 却更注重艺术感，并让每次参与活动的 60 多位宾客绝不会享用到同样的料理或是用到

FOR STEINBEISSER (CHAMPIGNONS AND HAZELNUT )

活动的厨师，所创作的菜单必须是有机的、使用生物 ERIC WOLFINGER FOR STEINBEISSER (2), REIN JANSSEN

Any chef participating in an Experimental Gastronomy dining event must agree to create a tasting menu that includes only organic, biodynamic, and vegan ingredients. Moreover, everything that ends up on the table must be locally sourced. “If you cook plantbased, if you cook biodynamic, if you cook local,” says Kullik, “you actually have a very sustainable kind of cuisine. It’s very difficult to implement, but it’s possible. I think for most chefs, it’s an intriguing challenge to their daily way of working.” Steinbeisser helps pave the way by serving as food scout for each event, offering the participating chefs a surprisingly extensive produce list. The artists involved in the dinners – jewelers, glassmakers, ceramicists – typically work in contemporary crafts and face their own unique challenges. While a chef might request tableware that is primarily functional, Kullik and Wijnsma are looking for something decidedly sculptural, and none of the sixty-odd guests at each event

Onions, peas, and camelina oil served on a plate by Dirk Aleksic with a double spoon by Nils Hint

FOOD + DESIGN

Cabbage, potato, chanterelles, walnut, and lovage from Daniel Patterson, former chef of restaurant Coi, served on “Wire Nut Grid Plate” by Luke Shalan

CAROLINE PRANGE FOR STEINBEISSER (2)

这道卷心菜，土豆，鸡油菌，核桃和独活草由「Coi」餐厅的 Daniel Patterson 主理，放在Luke Shalan 设计的「Wire Nut Grid」餐盘上。

will eat from the same dish or use the same knife and fork. For many of the artisans, it’s a first foray into applying their creative skills to cutlery or dishware, and they are also asked to recycle, upcycle, and use found materials whenever possible. Experimental Gastronomy celebrated its fifth anniversary late last year at the Lloyd Hotel with chefs Kristian Baumann of restaurant 108, Andreas Rieger of einsunternull, and Daniel Burns of Luksus. Table settings came from a collection of twenty-five artists. Reflecting on their first half-decade, Kullik notes that while the project remains an ode to aesthetics and the beauty of everyday processes, it is also “an ode to good, natural foods, certainly to a new way of thinking about food and how we relate to it.” And there is something quietly revolutionary in his desire to push the project forward: “I hope to encourage more respect for farming and agriculture and to find a way to integrate good farming and a good food system back into our daily lives.”

同样的餐具。对于许多艺术工匠而言，这是他们首次将毕生所学投入制作刀叉或餐具。他们更被要求利用回收及再利用的手法，尽可能地使用随手可得的材料。去年年底，Experimental Gastronomy 活动在劳埃德酒店欢庆五周年纪念。「108」餐厅的 Kristian

Baumann 主厨、「einsunternull」餐厅的 Andreas Rieger 主厨及「Luksus」餐厅的 Daniel Burns 主厨皆前来参与盛事，而餐桌上各式摆设则由 25 位艺术家共同创作。通过仔细分析这五年的发展，Martin 认为他们的计划固然宣扬美学与日常生活之美，但同时也「赞颂高品质天然食物、新饮食思维以及人与食物之间紧密关系」。为了推进这项计划，Martin 还悄悄地构思了一个革命性的想法。他说：「我希望能唤起对耕作与农业的尊重，有效整合良好的耕种技术与食物系统，再回馈到我们的生活中。」 ode to winter

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FOOD + ART

「米」彩历史

against the grain A photographer and a food stylist use colored rice for their contemporary reinterpretations of Mark Rothko’s controversial Seagram murals.

SIXTY YEARS AGO, prominent American painter Mark Rothko was commissioned to produce a series of mural-size works for New York’s brand-new Seagram Building. It would be the most high-profile public display to date of the paintings of an abstract expressionist. Depending on which sources one consults, the works were either intended from the outset to adorn the walls of the tony Four Seasons restaurant in the soon-to-be iconic building or, as some claim Rothko believed, they were originally meant to hang in what was considered the more prestigious setting of the famed Internationalstyle lobby. As it turned out, the paintings were not destined to embellish either. After producing dozens of outsize canvases, Rothko returned the money – USD35,000 – and refused to deliver the paintings to the Four Seasons, soon to be known as an exclusive hangout of the city’s privileged elite and as the birthplace of the power lunch. Rothko is often quoted as saying, “I accepted this assignment as a challenge, with strictly malicious intentions. I hope to paint something that will ruin the appetite of every son of a bitch who ever eats in that room.” But to this day, just why he decided to withdraw is shrouded in rumor and mystery. Was it wounded pride, adherence to egalitarian principles, or something else? Shortly before his death by suicide in 1970, the artist donated nine of the paintings to the Tate Modern in London, a gift that came with special demands: a permanent, exclusive room for the works and the promise that the paintings would not be displayed with any other canvases outside the series. It was the defacing of one of these paintings in 2012 by a visitor to the gallery that aroused the interest of New Zealand photographer Henry Hargreaves and US food stylist Caitlin Levin. It led them to dig deeper into the history of the murals before creating the first works in their cheekily named Mark Rice-Ko series. Their second installment came about when the Four Seasons announced it was shutting its doors in 2016. The collaborative duo of Hargreaves+Levin specialize in personal works focusing on the complicated historical and contemporary power structures that lie behind food. They’ve deep-fried iPhones and MacBooks in a playful critique of disposable fast-food culture, used a flatbed scanner to create kaleidoscopic collages that emphasize the beauty of seasonal produce, and crafted models of famous museums out of candy. For Mark Rice-Ko , the artists used food-grade dye to meticulously color thousands of grains of rice, carefully arranging them on horizontal canvases to be photographed from above. During the initial three-day stage of the

TK | ode to winter

60 年前，杰出的美国画家 Mark Rothko 受委托为西格拉姆大厦创作一系列壁画尺寸的作品，这些作品可说是迄今为止在公开展览中最受人瞩目的抽象表现主义画作。相传这些作品有两种可能的归属：其一是在即将成为地标的大厦内，作为高级餐厅「四季

(Four Swasons)」的墙壁装饰；其二，Mark 本人认为，这些画将庄严恭敬地挂在大厦内国际型大厅的墙壁上。但到了最后，这些画没被送到餐厅，也没挂在大厅。Mark 完成这些超大型作品后，把 35,000 美金的制作费退回，并拒绝把画送到后来著名菁英阶级的私密聚会场所，也是许多重要会谈的首选之地 –「四季」餐厅。「我将这个任务看做是心怀不轨 Mark 曾说：的挑战。我希望能画出让所有用餐的无赖们倒尽胃口的画作。」然而，时至今日，关于他收回画作的原因依然众说纷纭。是因为受伤的自尊，对平等的坚持还是另有隐情？在 1970 年自杀前夕，Mark 捐出九幅画给伦敦泰特美术馆，同时提出特别条件：艺术馆必须提供永久独立空间来展示这批画作，并且不能在同一面墙上出現此系列以外的任何作品。

2012 年，其中一幅画被游客毁损。对此，纽西兰摄影师 Henry Hargreaves 与美国食物造型师 Caitlin Levin 产生了兴趣。他们挖掘出更多有关这些壁画的历史真相，随后设计并推出了第一个系列作品，还大胆地命名为

Mark Rice-Ko。而第二件作品则大约在「四季」餐厅 2016 年宣布倒闭之际推出。 Henry 与 Caitlin 两人合作无间，擅长在作品中展现食物背后、从古至今的复杂权力结构。他们曾将 iPhone 与 MacBook 丢到油锅里炸，批判短视近利的速食文化，也曾用扫描机创作万花筒拼贴画来展现季节食材之美，更曾用糖果做出有名的博物馆模型。

Mark Rice-Ko 系列中，他们使用食品级染料细心地将上千粒米染色，接着一一平放

Duck

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COURTESY HARGREAVES+LEVIN

FOOD + ART

Burger

project, they replicated the colors and textures of original Rothko works as accurately as possible. “It took lots of attempts to get the colors right,” Levin notes. “Those available in dye are much more limited than, say, in oil paints.” To create a feeling of brushstrokes, they delicately fuzzed the edges of the color blocks. With news of the impending closure of the Four Seasons, Hargreaves and Levin paid a visit to the restaurant. The owners offered to donate the rice needed for the second stage of the project, and the resulting canvases reflected some of the restaurant’s most celebrated seasonal dishes, depicted with Rothko’s signature geometries and floating hues. “We consider the entire series to be an ode to those who came before us. Our thought was to meld the worlds of art and food,” Levin explains. “Rothko’s series set the stage and inspired us immensely.” When the project was complete, the artists blithely cooked their rainbow of grains, which melted into a uniform dark green during the process. “We had tons of rice left over at the end,” says Levin. “We ate it with chicken curry, among other things, and we shared it with anyone who would take it.” A benignly democratic ending to the story of a body of work with a tortured past rooted in the dynamics of power.

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Cotton Candy with Candle

于画布上排列图形并于上方拍照。制作此系列的头三天，就把 Mark 原作的色彩与质地用米粒复制「我们试了很多次才把颜得唯妙唯肖。Caitlin 说：色调对，染料能做出的颜色远比油画颜料少得多了。」为了模仿原作的笔触，他们还仔细地将每个色块的边缘模糊化处理。听闻「四季」餐厅即将关闭，Henry 与 Caitlin 特地造访一趟。餐厅老板说要捐米，用作第二阶段的创作材料，而他们的成品不只向餐厅有名的季节餐点致敬，更融入 Mark 的招牌几何图形「整个系列其实是在歌和飞扬色彩。Caitlin 解释：颂过去的前辈们，我们的制作理念是融合艺术与食物。Mark 的系列为我们提供了舞台，也深深地启发了我们。」整个系列结束后，两人开心地将五彩缤纷的白米煮来吃。随着烹煮的过程，颜色渐渐融合成「到最后剩下一大堆米，拿来深绿色。Caitlin 说：配鸡肉咖喱与其他菜，也分享给有需要的人。」亲切又民主的故事结尾，背后的由来却是在权力流动中的曲折历史。

COURTESY HARGREAVES+LEVIN (3)

Martini

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MARIKE VAN BEURDEN CHEF & OWNER MARIKE VAN BEURDEN CONSULTING LTD, HONG KONG

专业设备演绎经典

class act At Gaggenau’s Culinary Artisans Masterclass, two top Hong Kong chefs present creative Cantonese and showstopping cakes using the world’s premier home appliances.

FEW THINGS ARE MORE INTIMIDATING for nonprofessional chefs to tackle than desserts, especially ones that measure up to the standards of a world-class pastry chef. On the other hand, few things could be more encouraging to serious home cooks than the teaching skills of a culinary artisan like Marike van Beurden combined with the impeccable efficiency, dependable accuracy, and functional simplicity that Gaggenau’s advanced home kitchen appliances are renowned for. Beurden, who has won international awards for her work in Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, is inspired by passions that include travel, Hong Kong lifestyle, outdoor pursuits, and arts and

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design. “In defining taste,” she says, “it’s the diversity of flavors, textures, cultures, and individual palates that makes creating sweets a true challenge.” At Gaggenau’s recent Hong Kong Masterclass, Beurden’s interests translated into two exceptional creations. The first was Couronne de Noel, or Christmas Crown, made from choux pastries filled with mango and passion-fruit marmalade and covered in exotic fruit cream and white chocolate crisp. Its dozens of ingredients might have seemed a bit overwhelming, but Marike’s patient approach meant that everyone left better informed and far more confident. And the versatility, precision control, and stateof-the-art functionality of the Gaggenau 400

series oven ensured the perfect finish on the notoriously tricky choux pastry. Her second dish, Black Forest Truffle Tart, was a gluten-free chocolate cake with cherry marmalade and vanilla chocolate ganache. “In general, chocolate always steals the show, but I think the students were also very intrigued by the choux and a high note of tart flavors.” Gaggenau’s appliances, with their technologically advanced design, uncompromising construction, and modern visual appeal, performed flawlessly across all the detailed and varied requirements of the dishes. “Amazing!” says Beurden. “I’ve found the dream kitchen I’ll have in my house one day! A microwave without a revolving glass tray makes it easier to use and also to clean. Gaggenau 400 series oven has all the power needed for baking high-end pastry, and the inductions are super-fast and precise.” Beurden clearly loved leading the class and interacting with her students: “It was absolutely fantastic. Even though I made it complex by doing two cakes in a few hours, they were so eager to learn and very hands-on with the recipes. When people are passionate, you just want to teach them more and more! I had a blast and I hope they did too!”

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AT KI ISLAND SOUTH GALLERIA

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

对非专业的厨师来说，没什么比制作甜点更令人裹足不前了，要达到世界级甜品师傅的水准更是难上加难。但对厨艺爱好者而言，甜品大师 Marike van Beurden 的教学技巧，加上 Gaggenau 厨具无可挑剔的高效率、可靠的精准度和操作简便的多功能性，足以令学生信心倍增。 Marike 曾在全球各地的米其林餐厅工作，荣获多项国际厨艺大奖。 Marike 的创作灵感来自她热衷的事物，包括旅游、在香港的生活、户外运动、艺术和设计。她表示：「定义味道时，多元的口味、口感、文化和个人喜好让制作甜品极具挑战性。」近期在 Gaggenau 的厨艺大师班中， Marike 广泛的兴趣融汇在她的两道精彩创

作中。第一道是「圣诞冠冕 (Couronne de Noel)」，泡芙面团内含芒果和百香果酱，外层覆上水果奶霜及白巧克力碎片。这道甜品包括多达数十种材料，可能令学生望而却步，但 Marike 个性温暖和蔼，耐心地确保每位学生都充分了解制作过程和所有细节，且充满信心。而 Gaggenau 400 系列烤炉的多功能性、精准度和最先进的功能确保了公认棘手的泡芙面团得以完美呈现。 Marike 的第二道甜点「黑森林松露挞」，是一个搭配樱桃酱及香草巧克力甘纳许的无麸质巧克力蛋糕。她表示：「通常巧克力都是甜点的主角，但这次学生也对泡芙和松露挞本身的口味很感兴趣。」

两道甜品的制作程序繁复，但 Gaggenau 的厨具掌控精确的技术，拥有严密的机能和当代的设计，总能完美地达成任务。Marike 赞叹：「总有一天我家也要有这样的厨房！没有玻璃转盘的微波炉更好用，也更好清理。Gaggenau 400 系列烤炉火力可以满足我们烘焙高端甜点的需要，而电磁炉也可烹调出快速又精准的料理。」 Marike 喜爱教学，享受和学生之间的互动。她表示：「虽然我要他们短短几小时完成两道甜品，他们还是非常积极学习，也愿意照着食谱动手做。学生充满热情，我当然也乐意倾囊相授！我很享受这个大师班，希望学生也是！」

Couronne de Noel 圣诞冠冕

Black Forest Truffle Tart 黑森林松露挞

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MAY CHOW 周思薇 CHEF & OWNER LITTLE BAO, HONG KONG AND BANGKOK HAPPY PARADISE, HONG KONG ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF 2017 AT KI ISLAND SOUTH GALLERIA

MAY CHOW, named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, has quickly risen to become one of Hong Kong’s – and Asia’s – most respected chefs. “I take a lot of pride when I do something that’s never been done before,” she says. “My vision is set quite high, but I work very hard to execute my ideas – it’s all in the willingness to change, adapt, and never give up.” Chow showed just those qualities at her recent Gaggenau Masterclass in Hong Kong by highlighting three dishes that have acclaim at her restaurant Happy Paradise: scallop rice roll; steamed egg with ginger, scallion, apple vinegar, and okra; and a knockout dish of slow-cooked chicken, glutinous rice, Shaoxing wine, and chrysanthemum. “We kept the recipes at the restaurant level, because we wanted it to be quite challenging for the

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students,” she says. “I love trying to explain and show techniques – it makes me think I could be a good teacher!” Gaggenau’s professional-level appliances for serious home cooks, with their advanced design, versatile functionality, ultra-precision control, and wonderful ease of use made even complex techniques a pleasure for Chow to demonstrate and a breeze for the students to pick up. “The scallop cheung fun called for real creativity,” says Chow, “including puréeing the scallops, slow-cooking them, and shaping them to look like rice rolls. It’s a simple-looking dish that takes a lot of effort. We were able to showcase the amazing potential of the Gaggenau 400 series combi-steam oven by slow-cooking the chicken until silky and steaming the egg custard to an extra-velvety texture.

“The Gaggenau combi-steam oven is great. It can deliver everything that we’re able to do in a professional kitchen. I really wanted to show the students that technology can be as simple as cooking a steamed egg for your kids, but now it can be that much better with the help of Gaggenau’s advanced features.” The yellow wine chicken dish involved a whole range of techniques, from steaming and frying to poaching and baking. “We wanted to demonstrate using the combisteam setting to make sure the chicken remains extra moist while we’re stir-frying rice and reheating soups on the induction tops. I really want the students to think and perform like chefs without a thought of it being difficult. With the help of the very best kitchen appliances, everyone can cook like a pro!”

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

Slow-Cooked Chicken, Glutinous Rice, Shaoxing Wine and Chrysanthemum 慢煮黄酒鸡配糯米酒、绍兴酒及白菊花

周思薇近年来迅速跃升为成就卓越、闻名亚洲的名厨。这位来自香港的厨艺新星荣获具权威性的「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁发「2017 年度最佳女厨师」奖。周思薇说：「只要完成前人没做过的事情，我就充满成就感。我的理想放得很高很远，同时加倍努力实践目标，而成功的关键在于决心去改变、调整以及永不放弃。」

周思薇近期在香港的 Gaggenau 厨艺大师班烹饪课程授课，主打三道拿手好菜，都是她开设的餐厅 Happy Paradise 的热门菜式。首先是带子肠粉；再来是搭配葱、姜、苹果醋和秋葵的冻蒸蛋；最后则是招牌菜慢煮黄酒鸡，配上糯米酒、绍兴酒煮成的酱汁并铺上白菊花。她表示：「我们以专业餐厅菜式的标准设计食谱，要给

学生一点挑战。我喜欢指导学生并示范烹饪技巧，我都觉得我可以成为一位好老师了！」 Gaggenau 的专业厨具，以先进的设计，多功能，精密控制，以及简易操作，让周思薇能轻松展示复杂的烹饪技巧，就连学生都很快上手。「带子肠粉需要我们发挥创意，将带子打成浆，慢煮后铺成传统米浆肠粉皮的样子。这道菜看似平凡无奇，但却要费好一番功夫。我们也展示了 Gaggenau 400 系列蒸烤炉的精准调控功能，这可以将慢煮黄酒鸡煮到肉质软嫩，并让蒸蛋有特别嫩滑的质感。」她认为：「Gaggenau 400 系列蒸烤炉非常棒，能做到我们专业厨房的所有烹饪手法。我很想让学生看看，其实连在家蒸蛋给小孩吃这么简单的事，都能靠科技帮忙。而现在借助 Gaggenau 厨具的进阶功能，我们还能达到更专业的水平。」要做出一道黄酒鸡，需要经过蒸、煎、煮、烤等多道工序。周思薇透露：「我们想教导学生如何使用蒸烤炉的设定，让我们在电磁炉上炒饭和加热汤品时，还能确保鸡肉多汁嫩滑。我希望学生都能像专业大厨一样思考、烹调，而且一点也不会觉得困难。只要有最好的厨具帮忙，每个人都能成为专业大厨！」

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS MASTERCLASS

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Gaggenau is known for its embrace of the best in culinary culture and for all that unites people who have a taste for good living. Recently, at its sleek cuttingedge showroom in Hong Kong, the company united some of the region’s most renowned chefs for the launch of its Culinary Artisan Masterclass series.

德国厨房电器品牌 Gaggenau 致力于打造最高品质的烹饪文化，以及凝聚追求优质生活的爱好者。近来它在位于港岛南区的展厅开办一系列星级大师班烹饪课程，邀请本地十位名厨授课。

SERIES 1

SERIES 2

SERIES 3

SERIES 5

UPCOMING SERIES 4

Mok Kit Keung 莫杰強 Executive Chinese Chef Shang Palace, Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong 香港九龙香格里拉大酒店香宮主厨

Tam Kwok Fung 谭国锋 Head Chef Jade Dragon, City of Dreams, Macau 澳门新濠天地誉珑轩主厨

Marike Van Beurden Pastry Chef & Owner Marike Van Beurden Consulting Ltd. 甜品厨师及Marike Van Beurden Consulting Ltd 创办人

Richard Ekkebus Culinary Director The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 香港置地文华东方酒店厨艺总监

24 January 2018, 1:00-4:00pm Vicky Cheng Chef & Owner VEA Restaurant & Lounge, Hong Kong 香港 VEA 餐厅主厨兼创办人

Ip Chi Cheung 叶志祥 Former Executive Chinese Chef Summer Palace, Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong 前任香港港岛香格里拉大酒店夏宮中餐主厨

Lau Yiu Fai 刘耀辉 Executive Chinese Chef Yan Toh Heen, InterContinental Hong Kong 香港洲际酒店欣图轩行政总厨

May Chow 周思薇 Chef & Owner Little Bao, Hong Kong and Bangkok Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 香港及曼谷小包包餐厅主厨兼创办人 2017年度最佳女厨师

Michael Pretet Pastry Chef Amber, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 香港置地文华东方酒店烘焙主厨

26 February, 2018, 2:00-4:00pm Jay Khan Bar Owner COA, Hong Kong 香港 COA 酒吧创办人

For enrollment details, please call 2890-1522/2890-9111 or email events@kih.com.hk

KI Island South Galleria 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港黄竹坑香叶道2号 One Island South 19楼

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正宗美味

mangia bene Spiga’s talented head chef champions the authentic products of his native land.

Liquid Grana Padano and Parma Ham Filled Tortello, Light Soused Sauce and Pesto Genovese 格拉娜帕达诺乳酪配帕玛尔火腿意大利饺，佐淡酱汁及经典意式青酱

and delighting unsuspecting palates with the unique taste-and-texture burst. The flavors, however, remain quintessentially Italian. “We only use authentic PDO products,” he says, nodding toward the official Parma Crown stamp branding the Prosciutto di Parma PDO and the four-leaf clover and dotted lozenge stamps covering the Grana Padano PDO rind. He knows that only the PDO names and these official stamps certify that the producers have followed the traditional recipes and met their consortiums’

quality standards. “Because we’re an Italian restaurant in another part of the world,” he adds, “it’s especially important to serve guests the original products, so they can experience the real taste of Italy.” The content of this publication represents the views of the author only and is his sole responsibility. The European Commission does not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

GIUSEPPE CARLUCCI leans over an artfully plated dish of tortelli at Spiga Hong Kong and considers his crucial final touches. Wielding tweezers, he precisely places paper-thin strips of Prosciutto di Parma PDO atop the pasta and then runs a wedge of Grana Padano PDO across a grater to scatter a flurry of flakes over the dish. Providing varied textures of the flavors that imbue the tortelli and the pesto, the garnishes are far more than mere visual embellishments. These two iconic Italian delicacies from Europe were, in fact, among the first to be awarded Protected Designation of Origin status in their categories. Adhering to ageold traditions and strict legal guidelines, Prosciutto di Parma PDO’s four natural components – Italian pork, salt, air, and time – yield sweet, buttery slices of drycured ham. Grana Padano PDO follows a recipe created by twelfth-century Benedictine monks. Named for its grainy texture, the beloved hard cheese is prized for its versatile nutty, fruity flavor that can be enjoyed equally well on its own or as part of a dish. Carlucci prefers Grana Padano PDO aged twenty-four months and Prosciutto di Parma PDO aged thirty-six, because their robustness and complexity stand up well to the dish’s other elements. He slow-cooks thin slices of the cheese and ham in vegetable stock for four hours until their flavors have fully infused the broth. “As you eat each tortello,” he says, “the liquid filling creates an explosion of taste.” While the two products have long been popular staples on antipasti platters and charcuterie boards, Carlucci enjoys playing with a combination by transforming solid into liquid

â&#x20AC;&#x153;We believe in giving our guests an authentic taste of Italy. Grana Padano PDO and Prosciutto di Parma PDO are two of the best products to represent a guaranteed taste and flavor, as they are European products with Protected Denomination of Origin and we are fortunate to have a good selection from our suppliers.â&#x20AC;? GIUSEPPE CARLUCCI

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

LIQUID GRANA PADANO PDO AND PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA PDO FILLED TORTELLO, LIGHT SOUSED SAUCE AND PESTO GENOVESE 格拉娜帕达诺奶酪及帕玛尔火腿意大利饺 PASTA DOUGH

面团

800 g 00 flour 200 g semolina flour 800 g Italian egg yolk

800 克 00号面粉 200克 semolina 粗粒面粉 800克意大利蛋黄

In stand mixer, mix the flours with a dough hook and slowly add the egg yolk until a smooth dough is formed. Refrigerate it for two hours before use.

面粉放入立式搅拌器，装上搅拌头开始打发，慢慢加入蛋黄直至打成质地柔软的面团。使用前放冰箱冷藏2小时。

STUFFING

内馅

1 L vegetable stock 350 g Grana Padano PDO 24 months 100 g Prosciutto di Parma PDO 36 months 5 leaves gelatin 5 g agar

1公升蔬菜高汤 350 克 24个月 PDO 格拉娜帕达诺奶酪 100 克 36个月 PDO 帕玛尔火腿 5 片吉利丁 5 克石菜花

1. Seal the vegetable stock, Grana Padano PDO, and Prosciutto di Parma PDO in a vacuum bag and cook it sous vide at 82°C for 4 hours. 2. Filter the stock, stir in the gelatin and agar, pour the mixture into a silicone half-sphere mold, and freeze it.

1. 蔬菜高汤、格拉娜帕达诺奶酪及帕玛尔火腿封入真空袋，以82°C低温慢煮4小时。 2. 高汤过筛后加入吉利丁及石菜花搅拌，倒入矽胶半圆模型，放冰箱冷冻。青酱

PESTO SAUCE 30 g Italian basil 50 ml extra virgin olive oil 25 g Grana Padano PDO 8 g pine nuts

Blend the ingredients together until smooth and creamy, then cover and refrigerate.

30克意大利罗勒 50 毫升特级初榨橄榄油 25克 PDO 格拉娜帕达诺奶酪 8克松子

均匀搅拌所有材料直至质地柔顺绵密，盖好后放冰箱冷藏。淡酱汁

LIGHT SOUSED SAUCE 300 g water 300 g white wine 300 g white vinegar 160 g seawater 1 cinnamon stick 10 g parsley 70 g sugar 5 cardamom pods 5 each, white and black peppercorns 3 juniper berries 2 g garlic 2 g thyme 0.8 g agar

Combine the ingredients, bring to a boil, and cool to room temperature. Strain the mixture and add the agar dissolved in 100 g of the liquid. Blend the mixture until gelled.

300克水 300克白酒 300克白醋 160克海水 1 支肉桂条 10克巴西里 70克糖 5 个小豆蔻各5 粒白胡椒及黑胡椒 3颗杜松子 2克蒜头 2克百里香 0.8克石花菜

均匀混和所有材料，煮到沸腾后放凉至室温。过筛后加入以100 克液体溶解的石菜花，搅和至成胶状。上菜

ASSEMBLY

1. Roll the pasta dough thin, cut six round shapes, place some frozen stuffing in the center of each, and close the dough tortelli style. 2. Boil the tortelli in salted water for 5 minutes, drain, and toss in a saucepan with a little extra virgin olive oil. 3. Place a bit of light soused sauce in the middle of a plate, and spoon some pesto around it. Place six tortelli in a circle on top of the pesto. 4. Finish the plating with thin-sliced Prosciutto di Parma PDO, basil leaves, and grated Grana Padano PDO.

TK | ode to winter

1. 面团杆薄后切成6个圆形，中间均放上冷冻内馅，捏成意大利饺形状。 2. 意大利饺于沸腾盐水中煮5分钟，沥干。平底锅倒入些许特级初榨橄榄油，放入意大利饺。 3. 餐盘中间放上少许淡酱汁，周边放上几杓青酱。沿着青酱放上6个意大利饺，成圆弧状。 4. 摆上 PDO 帕玛尔火腿薄片、罗勒叶及 PDO 格拉娜帕达诺奶酪碎片即可上桌。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Giuseppe Carlucci 站在香港「Spiga」餐厅内，在摆盘精致的意大利饺旁，思考收尾的关键步骤。他用镊子将透可见光的帕玛尔火腿薄片置于其上，位置及角度丝毫不差，之后便拿起一块格拉娜帕达诺乳酪，以刨丝器刮出一片片质地犹如丝般滑顺的乳酪。这些点缀不仅有装饰作用，更与意大利饺的内馅及青酱相辅相成，让口感增添更多层次。格拉娜帕达诺乳酪及帕玛尔火腿均是意大利的标志性美食，而餐厅选用的更是同类食材中首款取得原产地保护区认证 (PDO) 的。帕玛尔火腿秉承悠久的传统和严格的生产标准，仅用盐腌制的意大利猪肉在适当的气侯下风干，以酝酿出带坚果香、甘甜的味道。以其颗粒状质地命名的

格拉娜帕达诺乳酪，则依循 12 世纪波河河谷本笃会修士的原始配方。这款受欢迎的硬乳酪以「百搭」闻名，带有坚果及水果香气，既可单独享用，也能融入菜式之中。 Giuseppe 偏好熟成 24 个月的格拉娜帕达诺乳酪及 36 个月的帕玛尔火腿，味道才不会被其他食材盖过。他将乳酪片及火腿片放入蔬菜高汤中慢火熬煮 4 小时，直至味道与高汤完全融合。他表示：「每吃一颗意大利饺，鲜嫩多汁的内馅都能引爆嘴里的美味。」这两种食材一直是前菜冷盘及意式拼盘的常客，但此传统组合到了 Giuseppe 手中有了巧妙的翻转：固体食材转化为液态

的口感，以及别处难寻的独特味道，吃起来却仍是道地的意大利菜风味。主厨朝火腿上官方认证的帕玛尔王冠标签和乳酪外皮上的四叶草标签及点状菱形望去，并强调：「我们只用获得 PDO 认证的产品」。唯有 PDO 标示及官方认证标签才能保证制造商每一步骤均依循传统作法，符合官方机构设立的品质标准。他进一步说明：「加上我们是位于意大利外、世界其他地方的餐厅，给客人正宗的意式风味显得更加重要，要让他们体验到原汁原味的意大利魅力。」

本出版物的内容仅代表作者的观点立场，并不代表欧盟委员会的观点。欧盟委员将不会为内容负上任何法律责任。 ode to winter

TK |

冲出东亚台湾味

taiwan on top Elizabeth Kao reports on a regional contender from Taipei who is one step closer to the world title of S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018.

TK | ode to winter

九位年轻参赛厨师的目标既简单又富挑战性：他们需要烹制近乎完美的佳肴，还要藉此展现他们独特的厨艺天赋。「圣培露年轻厨师大赛」东北亚区域赛首度移师台湾举办，在醒吾科技大学厨艺学院的比赛现场，竟是一片安静。九位分別來自香港、澳门、韩国、台湾的选手一心不乱，专心料理。选手的一举一动，评审都看在眼内。今年的星级评审团包括：松露之王 Umberto Bombana、以「Restaurant André」享誉国际的江振诚、2016 年亚洲最佳女主厨 Margarita Forés、新加坡「Corner House」主厨 Jason Tan，以及峇里岛「Locavore」主厨 Ray

Adriansyah。评审团以菜式的食材选用、事前功夫、全面技巧、料理创意、摆盘美感以及烹调理念作为评分项目，亦密切留意每一位选手所展现的独特个人风格。得分最高的厨师将打进今年稍后的全球总决赛。最终，台湾选手陈子洋获得评审的一致好评。目前任职于「VG The Seafood Bar」的陈子洋，做出一道「品尝台湾」，结合宜兰櫻桃鸭、三星蔥、地瓜球和薏仁等元素，上菜前还先端出一碗酸菜鸭汤，获评审

Jason 大赞。首席评审 Umberto Bombana 指出，他很喜欢台湾味的概念，很有地区代表性。江振诚则认为，陈子洋完美演绎了其概念独特的菜式，简单得来却准备充足，比较其他参赛者失分较少，策略成功。陈子洋接下來会接受冠军导师 Umberto Bombana 的指导，明年将前往米兰参加全球总決赛。届时，他再次接受挑战，迎战二十位来自世界各地的顶尖年轻厨师。

MARK HAMMONS (3)

THE GOAL OF THE NINE YOUNG CHEFS was both simple and challenging: to create a dish that showcased their unique culinary talents and was as close to perfection as possible. The S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 Northeast Asia Regional competition had come to Taiwan for the first time, held last November at Hsing Wu University. It proved a surprisingly silent affair as the competitors from Hong Kong, Macau, Korea, and Taiwan focused with utmost concentration on their tasks. Closely observing was the panel of all-star judges: Umberto Bombana, “King of Truffles”; André Chiang, owner of world-famous Restaurant André; Margarita Forés, named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016; Chef Jason Tan of Singapore’s Corner House; and Ray Adriansyah, head chef of Bali’s Locavore. The judges assessed the ingredients used, their preparation, and the chefs’ overall technical skills. Also graded were creativity, aesthetics, and culinary concepts. The panel was particularly looking for that unique personal touch in each entry. The highest-scoring chef would advance to the world finals later this year. In the end, Taiwan’s Zih-Yang Chen came out on top, with his dish, Taste of Taiwan, garnering unanimous kudos. Zih-Yang, who currently works at VG The Seafood Bar in Taipei, conceived his signature as a tribute to the agricultural bounty of Taiwan’s Yilan County. It featured breast from the region’s famous cherry duck along with scallions sourced from Sanxing Township. Other components were handmade sweet-potato balls, adlay, and an accompanying bowl of pickled-cabbage duck soup, which was singled out for praise by judge Jason Tan. Head judge Umberto Bombana commended the emphasis on regional flavors, and André Chiang noted that Zih-Yang’s choice of a simpler dish meant fewer penalized mistakes. Zih-Yang will be mentored by master chef Umberto Bombana in preparation for the world finals in May in Milan, Italy. There, he’ll be put to the test once again, this time against twenty others of the most talented young chefs from across the globe.

FEATURE

Spectacular Is

Never Off the Menu

Macau’s most magnetic

Yang Deng Quan

venues becomes

Mitsuharu Tsumura

array of nine stellar

Tam Yim Chan

MGM COTAI’s new

Mauro Colagreco

PRESENTED BY MGM COTAI

dining destination.

GRILL 58 盛焰 CHEF MAURO COLAGRECO Mauro Colagreco’s Grill 58 heats up Macau’s dining scene. 星级主厨Mauro Colagreco以「盛焰」点燃澳门老饕熊熊热情。

CHÚN 淳 C H E F TA M Y I M C H A N At Chún, time-honored techniques and contemporary creativity make for exceptional Cantonese cuisine. 老技术与新发想汇聚「淳」餐厅，交织出奇特美味的粤式餐点。

AJI 雅吉 CHEF MITSUHARU TSUMURA At Aji, Peruvian-Japanese fusion arrives in Macau. 澳门首家日式秘鲁菜餐厅开幕，饕客可来「雅吉」一尝融合料理的美妙滋味。

FIVE FOOT ROAD 蜀道 C H E F YA N G D E N G Q U A N The historic Silk Road inspires a thrilling journey of Sichuan taste at Five Foot Road. 古丝路启发灵感，「蜀道」餐厅开启一场穿越古今的川菜冒险。

CHEF GRAHAM ELLIOT Graham Elliot brings his exciting brand of California cuisine to MGM COTAI. Graham Elliot带着招牌料理进驻美狮美高梅，一展明星级美味。

HAO GUO 好鍋 CHEF LI CHI WAI Hotpots and Chinese regional cuisine are the stars of Hao Guo’s culinary theater. 各式火锅及中国特色菜肴是「好锅」料理的主打星。

JANICE WONG MGM CHEF JANICE WONG Janice Wong delights the senses at MGM COTAI. 甜品大师黄慧娴妙手生花，让美狮美高梅美味细胞全开。

Bar Patuá

Ku Chi Wa

Janice Wong

Li Chi Wai

Graham Elliot 46

COAST 濤岸

MIÀN DUÌ MIÀN 面對麵 CHEF KU CHI WA The classic flavors of China’s distinctive regional cuisines are perfectly executed at Miàn Duì Miàn. 中国经典独特的地方美食完美展现。

B A R PAT U Á 百話廊 Macau’s heritage is the backdrop to brilliant drinks and beautiful décor at Bar Patuá. 「百话廊」酒吧绚丽调酒与高雅装潢，勾勒出澳门的历史文化。

MAURO COLAGRECO’S GRILL 58 HEATS UP THE DINING SCENE

The Place to Meat

C H E F M AU RO CO L AG R ECO G R I L L 5 8 , M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅 • 盛焰

Grilled tomahawk and seafood 烤战斧牛扒和海鲜

TK | ode to winter

58 DEGREES LOGO CMYK

C6 M83 Y 83 K0

Grill 58 is drawing food and wine connoisseurs from across the region to Chef Mauro Colagreco’s most recent project in Asia. The acclaimed Argentinian-French chef’s intuitive style and flavorful food has earned him multiple awards and his restaurant in France two Michelin stars and a San Pellegrino ranking of number 4 in the world (2017). Grill 58 offers two distinct culinary genres: classic Western charcoal grilling and authentic teppanyaki preparation. Whichever it is, diners are guaranteed the finest cuts sourced from Australia, the US, Japan, and France by MGM’s own master butcher, as well as an uncompromisingly fresh selection of seafood and produce. To coax the best flavors from its premium meats, Grill 58 uses a salt aging room, the first in any restaurant in Macau. Colagreco explains that the salt helps C0 M0 Y0 K100

「盛焰 (Grill 58)」是蜚声厨界的阿根廷裔法籍主厨 Mauro

Colagreco 在亚洲的最新餐厅，邻近地区的众多餐酒老饕定然慕名而来。凭借依循直觉的自我风格及风味浓郁的料理 , 主厨多次获得大奖，他位于法国的餐厅荣获米其林二星肯定以及 San Pellegrino 全球餐厅排名第 4 位

(2017)。来到「盛焰」，宾客可享用各具特色的经典西式碳火烤肉及正宗铁板烧。不管选择哪一种烹调方式，宾客均可尝到顶级部位的牛肉，这些牛肉由澳洲、美国、日本及法国直送，再由美高梅旗下专家处理，品质毋庸置疑。客人亦可选择海鲜或时令农产，新鲜程度一尝便了然于心。为了带出顶级牛肉的最佳风味，餐厅领先所有澳门 ode to winter

TK |

Charcoal grilled Spanish red prawns, black garlic dressing 西班牙炭烧大红虾、黑蒜泥酱

the room maintain “an ideal environment for the aging process,” conditions that enhance the meat’s inherent flavors as it reaches maturity. The room also serves as a visual showcase, displaying behind its glass walls both the tantalizing contents and an impressive block of Himalayan salt. Although his style is highly personal, Colagreco’s rigorous approach to food is inspired by the mix of cultures that have shaped his life and career. “You have the freshness and spice of Argentina, where I was born, and the comforting Mediterranean influence from my Italian grandparents. My training and my first restaurant were in France, so I learned the techniques and vision of French cuisine. All of these have helped form my philosophy toward food.” The signature specialty on the menu, and Colagreco’s own personal favorite, is his famous tomahawk steak. This massive premium cut, ideal for sharing, is served with grilled corn, parmesan, and black truffle. Other notables include a juicy Australian Black Angus strip loin accompanied by sweet potatoes, dates, and walnuts and Colagreco’s succulent blue lobster roasted in ginger butter and herbs. Complementing the sumptuous offerings is an extensive wine and sake list. And for an extra-special experience, guests can book a VIP dining event in the four-thousand-bottle wine cellar. Colagreco strives to bring, he says, “something spectacular, something that makes you feel an emotion” to Macau’s dining landscape. “The biggest challenge was to create a place that is truly different and very special. It’s the natural, authentic, exceptional cuisine that makes each moment shared at Grill 58 unforgettable.”

餐厅，打造盐砖熟成室。主厨表示，盐块可以让熟成室维持在最佳状态，让牛肉内蕴含的风味在熟成过程中加倍升级。同时，熟成室也是完美的展示空间，透过玻璃可以看到诱人的牛肉油脂及吸睛度十足的喜马拉雅盐砖。

Blue lobster roasted in ginger butter and herbs 姜汁牛油香草烤蓝龙虾

尽管主厨 Mauro 个人风格强烈，但他处理食物的严谨态度，受到生活及厨师生涯中多种文化的耳濡目染。他说：「我在阿根廷出生，体会到新鲜及香料的滋味。我的祖父母来自意大利，又为我添上些许悠闲的地中海风格。后来接受专业训练及第一间餐厅都在法国，除了习得法式料理技巧外，我也有了不同的视野。以上种种，都成为我形塑个人烹饪哲学的重要元素。」让他扬名厨界的战斧牛排是餐厅的招牌特色料理，也是主厨个人最爱－大份量的顶级牛排，适合同桌分享，搭配炙烤玉米、帕玛森乳酪及黑松露上桌，令人食指大动。其他菜式如肉汁满溢的澳洲黑格斯腰脊肉佐地瓜、黑枣及胡桃，或主厨特制的姜味奶油及草本香烤蓝龙虾，鲜嫩多汁，同样不容错过。「盛焰」提供丰富的葡萄酒及清酒酒单，与各式豪奢主食相辅相成。想来点不一样的客人，也可预定酒窖内的贵宾包厢，在 4,000 瓶佳酿相伴之下享受别处难寻的餐饮体验。

Mauro 强调，自己目标无他，单纯想把「独树一格、打动客人内心情感」的料理引进澳门餐饮界。他表示：「如何打造一个与众不同的独特空间是最大的挑战，但也正是我们对于天然、原汁原味及品质绝佳的菜式所投注的热情，使顾客在『盛焰』享用美食的每一个时刻都能萦绕心头。」 ode to winter

TK |

AT AJI, PERUVIANJAPANESE FUSION ARRIVES IN MACAU.

Enter Nikkei

CHEF MITSUHARU TSUMURA A J I , M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅．雅吉

Yuca soba 木薯荞麦面

TK | ODE TO WINTER

The Spanish word aji means “chili pepper,” an ingredient that’s at the heart of Peruvian cooking. The Japanese word aji means “taste.” This happy linguistic synchronicity perfectly captures the spirit of Nikkei cuisine, which blends robust Peruvian flavors with refined Japanese culinary traditions and techniques. Fitting, then, that Aji should be the name of Macau’s first authentic Nikkei restaurant, brought to life by renowned chef Mitsuharu Tsumura, who is himself a Peruvian of Japanese descent. Tsumura has racked up widespread critical acclaim for his lighthearted and inventive approach to food. His restaurant Maido in Lima has become a global gastronomic pilgrimage site since it opened in 2009, and last year it was ranked first among Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. Now, with the opening of Aji at MGM

「Aji」一字在西班牙文中为「辣椒」之意，为秘鲁料理不可或缺的灵魂食材，同样的字在日语中则解作「味道」，两地语言奇妙的字意巧合地展现了日式秘鲁菜 (Nikkei cuisine) 的精髓，是风味独特的秘鲁菜与精致日本料理传统及技巧的完美组合。「雅吉 (Aji)」顺理成章，也成为澳门第一家正宗日式秘鲁菜餐厅的名字，背后的灵魂人物正是日裔秘鲁籍知名大厨津村光晴。大厨轻松写意却又创新的烹饪手法广受各界高度肯定。他位于利马的餐厅「Maido」2009 年开幕以来便成为全球老饕朝圣的新据点，去年更于拉丁美洲 50 大最佳餐厅排行榜中夺冠，受欢迎程度可见一斑。随着「雅吉」- 他在亚洲的首间餐厅于美狮美高梅盛大

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

COTAI, his first restaurant in Asia, Tsumura brings something truly new and

开幕之后，津村光晴也将为澳门美食界带来与众不同的崭新

different to the dining scene in Macau. Favoring a relaxed atmosphere and food with simple elegance over pretentious “fine dining,” Tsumura keeps his focus on detail and flavor, allowing the cuisine to speak for itself. His aim, he says, is “to give each person who comes to the restaurant the most incredible experience ever,” and this passion comes through in every distinctive dish he creates. Cebiche, a staple of Nikkei cuisine, is prepared tableside with a touch of theater, using fresh-sliced raw seafood complemented by piquant seasonings and contrasting textures. A favorite dish inspired by a signature at Maido is his ultra-tender short ribs, braised for fifty hours and served with crispy tacu tacu, a Peruvian patty of fried rice and beans. By embracing local flavors, Tsumura brings an added dimension to the menu. An exquisite array of novel Nikkei dishes, more than half of which are exclusive to Aji, reflect subtle touches of Chinese and Macanese influence in all the right places. Choices include a perfectly executed Peking duck nigiri and a delicate Peruvian take on the classic egg tart. Aji’s open kitchen offers patrons front-row seats to the meticulous food preparation for which Tsumura and his team are famous. And its stylish bar serves up an imaginative selection of pisco- and sake-based cocktails. Tsumura is aiming high with Aji. “My biggest challenge,” he says, “is to communicate the philosophy behind Peruvian cuisine. I want to teach people something about the culture and history of my country through this restaurant. I see Aji as the Peruvian culinary embassy in Macau.”

风味。

TK | ODE TO WINTER

餐厅氛围轻松，食物简单大气，没有高档精致餐饮的拘谨作态，大厨也得以心无旁骛的将重点放在各式细节及味道，让料理成为主角。他表示自己的目标是要带给客人最极致的体验，每一道菜都是主厨的精心之作，可品尝他所投注的无比热情。日式秘鲁菜的代表菜式秘制刺身 (cebiche) 直接在桌边制作，极具戏剧张力，现切生海鲜搭配刺激够味的调味酱及各式不同的口感，让人大呼过瘾。极嫩牛小排以主厨在「Maido」的招牌菜为灵感打造，也迅速成为餐厅的人气料理。精炖 50 小时的牛小排，搭配酥脆的秘鲁特色炸豆饭上桌，别具风味。主厨也特别针对在地口味创作新菜式，让选择更加多元。多道匠心特制的全新日式秘鲁料理，超过一半只在「雅吉」独家供应，更揉合中菜的细腻风味及澳门葡式特色，拿捏得恰到好处，包括做工无可挑剔的北京烤鸭握寿司，还有秘鲁风味的改良版葡式蛋塔。「雅吉」开放式厨房让前排客人得以近距离一睹主厨及团队一丝不苟、尽善尽美的备餐过程，也成为餐厅的一大特色。客人也可到风格时尚的吧台享用特制调酒－别处难寻的秘鲁传统酒酿 Pisco 及日本清酒特调，满足客人对于两地的想像。津村光晴对于餐厅有很高的期许，他说：「最大的挑战在于如何传达秘鲁菜所代表的料理哲学。我想透过这间餐厅让更多人对于我的国家文化及历史有多一分认识，『雅吉』可以说是秘鲁驻澳门的美食大使馆。」

Kumamoto oyster 熊本生蚝

Nigiri of the earth and nigiri of the sea 时令手握寿司

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GRAHAM ELLIOT BRINGS HIS EXCITING BRAND OF CALIFORNIA CUISINE TO MGM COTAI.

Fresh from the Coast CHEF GRAHAM ELLIOT C O A S T, M G M C O TA I 涛美狮美高梅．濤岸

COAST CMYK

C15 M41 Y100 K1

As a famed Top Chef judge and multi-award-winning c h e f a n d r e s t a u r a t e u r, Graham Elliot has garnered the world’s recognition for his modern, cross-cultural approach to cuisine. Coast, his adventurous new foray into Macau, remains true to form by offering food that, he says, “captures the spirit of California” but also draws on culinary influences from far and wide. Elliot has crafted an imaginative international menu with an array of seafood, fresh seasonal dishes, and stone-oven pizzas. While the offerings change regularly to feature the best local ingredients available, they always include perennial favorites like his signature Caesar salad, a deconstructed version of the classic, and the bursting-withflavor African Chicken 2.0. Desserts, including the wildly popular banana split, are also given the Elliot treatment. Throughout the menu, the presentation is unpretentious and clean, always making the freshness of the food the focus. The chef explains that his vision is not only to wow the taste buds, but also to “really make the whole eating experience cool, fun, and spontaneous.” This inviting approach is faithfully reflected in Coast’s interiors. A huge stone oven takes center stage in the spacious dining area clad in warm tones. Soft natural light floods in through decorative glass. The aroma of fresh baked goods wafts from Coast’s glassed-in central show kitchen, where the chefs’ ceaseless labors look like seamless choreography. Cozy booths and comfortable tables on tiered levels allow for C53 M63 Y76 K56

Deconstructed Caesar with baby romaine, white anchovy and brioche "twinkie" 新派凯撒沙拉配萝蔓生菜苗、白鳀鱼及法式甜点包蛋糕

TK | ode to winter

easy conversation. Adjacent to the kitchen is the restaurant’s welcoming chef’s table, available for private events. “I want people to enjoy delicious food and great music,” he says, “but also to feel like they can be themselves and have fun. There’s no pretentiousness here – we are an anti-stuffiness establishment!” Elliot’s philosophy is one that clicks wherever he takes it . “I’m especially excited to be able to share my whimsical approach to cooking with the sophisticated diners in Macau,” he says. “The beauty of food is that it’s an international language. I’ve traveled all over the world and in all fifty states, so I’m not locked into one style. It’s always spontaneous and changing, because I can’t work any other way.”

TK | ode to winter

Graham Elliot 是烹饪综艺节目《Top Chef》的知名评审，多次获得厨艺大奬肯定。他的当代及跨，並忠实呈文化烹饪风格广受全球饕客好评。他挥军澳门，开设美食艺术新据点「涛岸 (Coast)」现自己的料理哲学－「以西岸加州风为核心，同时融入世界其他地方的烹饪元素。」

Graham 精心打造的跨国界菜单极富想像力，包括海鲜、新鲜季节菜式及烤炉薄饼等。菜单随着当地最佳食材定期调整，不过人气料理亦从不缺席，像是招牌新派凯萨沙拉、非洲鸡 2.0 等。甜点同样表现主厨强烈的个人特色，其中当然少不了人气豪华香蕉船。综观餐厅所有菜式，都是走原汁原味不花俏的路线，简单好吃，以特显食材新鲜原味为原则。主厨表示，自己的目标不仅是要带来惊艳客人味蕾的美味，更要营造一个「酷炫、有趣且随兴所至的用餐体验」。这种热情款待的精神透过「涛岸」的内部装潢展露无遗，广大用餐空间以暖色系打造，中间有吸睛的大型薄饼烤炉，柔和的自然光则透过装饰花窗映入室内。大片透明玻璃隔开的中央厨房内正烤着新鲜食材，香气四溢，同时只见大厨进进出出，宛若一出不见破绽的舞蹈作品。隔层里气氛舒适的包厢及餐桌让客人可以自在聊天。邻近厨房的一角则是充满迎宾气息的空间－主厨之桌，这是私人聚会的最佳选择。他强调：「希望带给客人美味的食物及好听的音乐，同时觉得自在好玩。到这里吃饭大家都可以做自己，老古板可要三思才进来 !」「能和澳门的客人 Graham 的独特风格让他行遍天下，每每激荡出不同的火花。他开心表示：分享我那种异想天开的烹饪方式真的让人兴奋不已。美食是国际通行的语言，也因此特别迷人。我游历世界各国及美国 50 州，风格不受限于任何特定种类。随心所欲，不断改变，正是我工作恪守的唯一准则。」

Grahamburger with shallot marmalade, Brie fondue and roasted garlic mayo GE招牌汉堡配小红葱酱、布里芝士及烤蒜沙律酱

African Chicken 2.0, roasted potato, toasted coconut, chorizo vinaigrette 非洲鸡2.0、烤薯仔、烤椰肉、辣肉肠醋汁

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

JANICE WONG DELIGHTS THE SENSES AT MGM COTAI.

Sweet Dreams CHEF JANICE WONG J A N I C E W O N G M G M , M G M C O TA I

Enter Janice Wong MGM and the spell is cast . A seven-meter-high fountain, one of the world’s largest of its kind, looms into view, mesmerizing onlookers of every age with its lustrous, luscious, endlessly flowing rivers of white, milk, and dark chocolate. This unique chocolate-worshipper’s dream come true is a fitting introduction to the world of Janice Wong, the master pastry chef widely acknowledged as “Dessert Queen of Asia.” A feast for all the senses, Janice Wong’s confections are renowned for ingeniously blurring the lines between pastry making and fine art. Her talent has brought her numerous awards, including Pastry Chef of the Year for 2011, 2013, and 2015 from the World Gourmet Summit and Asia’s Best Pastry Chef in 2013 and 2014 from the prestigious San Pellegrino Asia Top 50. Janice Wong MGM fulfills her vision of a “modern-day sweets wonderland, marrying pastry and art together” by creating a complete experience for the senses. The shop’s spacious contemporary design is both inviting and impressive, enticing visitors to explore and select from dozens of irresistible take-out confections and pastries or to dine in for the ultimate in indulgent escapes. Happiness is all but guaranteed with live chocolate, crepe, and dessert stations and more than a hundred additional treats on offer, ranging from homemade Italian gelato to dainty pastries and tarts, sublime cakes and éclairs, an amazing array of handmade chocolates, cookies, and waffles.

Popcorn Sweet and salty popcorn parfait, yuzu parfait, passion fruit sorbet, salted caramel, popcorn powder 爆谷甜味和咸味爆谷芭菲、柚子芭菲、热情果雪葩、盐味焦糖、爆谷粉末

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“With this shop,” Wong notes, “I’m pushing my pastry-making boundaries by offering my largest-ever collection of desserts.” Fusion flavors like pork-floss sesame shortbread and jasmine tea-infused chocolates are some of Wong’s new creations developed especially for this location. Other signature moves include Popcorn, a marriage of sweet-salty popcorn with the tart tastes of yuzu and passion fruit, and her Cassis Plum, whose heady aromas of cassis and plum liqueurs are offset by the delicacy of elderflower yogurt foam. Of course, all is not sweetness at Janice Wong MGM. Rounding things out is an all-day dining menu that gives a nod to Wong’s Singaporean roots. Featured are favorite dishes like authentic laksa, cooked to perfection with fresh ingredients and according to traditional recipes.

TK | ode to winter

踏进美狮美高梅甜品殿堂「Janice Wong MGM」，立刻可以感受到甜品的魔力。首先映入眼帘的是高达七米、其中一座全球最大的巨型巧克力喷泉，来者不分年龄、大小，全被眼前源源不绝的黑白及牛奶三色巧克力散发的浓郁香气迷得神魂颠倒，对于巧克力爱好者来说犹如美梦成真，作为迎宾造景再适合不过。「Janice Wong MGM」背后的灵魂人物黄慧娴 ( Janice Wong) 制作糕点技术高超，广获各界肯定，有「亚洲甜点女王」美名。主厨才华洋溢，精心制作的糕点不仅赏心悦目，也让甜点迷大呼过瘾，作品介于糕点及艺术之间，成为她的招牌特色。她出道以来屡获大奖肯定，曾获选 2011、

2013 和 2015 年度世界名厨峰会最佳甜点师，2013 及

2014 年则夺下知名的 San Pellegrino 亚洲五十强「亚洲最佳甜品师」殊荣。「Janice Wong MGM」完全依循黄慧娴的梦想打造

「开这间店真的是挑战自我极限，展示的甜点品项之多，为我的生涯之最。」店内特色产品包括融合各地风味的肉松芝麻酥饼，

－「融合糕点及艺术的现代甜品幻境」，提供照顾客人五

以及主厨专门打造、店家限定的茉莉花茶巧克力等多种

感的完整体验。店内空间宽敞，充满现代设计元素，让

全新创作。其他招牌还包括爆谷－融合咸甜爆谷及柚子

人印象深刻。色彩缤纷的数十种外带糕点令人眼花缭乱，

芭菲、热情果酸呛的精致小食，以及黑醋栗梅－以细致

客人也可选择坐着慢慢品尝，用极致美味好好犒赏自己

的接骨木花优格泡沫为底，触发黑醋栗及梅子利口酒令

一番。

人沉醉的迷人气息。

除了主打现点现做的巧克力、可丽饼及点心站外，

来「Janice Wong MGM」吃得到的可不止甜点，还

还有自家制意大利冰淇淋、精致糕点及塔类、蛋糕及闪

可享用主厨精心制作的家乡新加坡风味全日餐点，咸点

电泡芙、各式手工巧克力、饼干、窝夫，百多种选择应

甜品一应俱全。地道料理如正宗叻沙，使用新鲜食材、

有尽有，务求让每个客人都展露无比幸福的表情。她强调：

依照传统作法烹调，喜欢浓郁口味的客人绝对不容错过。 ode to winter

TK |

TK | ODE TO WINTER

Essence of the Wok CHÚN M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅 • 淳

Braised imperial bird’s nest with crab roe 蟹皇干捞官燕盏

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

Pan-fried chicken fillet with lemon sauce and topped with black and white sesame 黑白芝麻西柠煎软鸡

TK | ODE TO WINTER

Tam Yim Chan, Executive Sous Chef of Chinese Restaurants, melds the classic and the modern to deliver something entirely new – but also comfortingly familiar. “By blending tradition and innovation, we create dishes that convey timeless tastes with imagination.” His approach is borne out perfectly in classically executed renditions of steamed fresh fish and shellfish, double-boiled soups simmered for hours, succulent roasted and braised meats, and elegantly refined dim sum. Chan’s respect for tradition always informs, rather than limits, his presentations. One example is the clever marriage of flavors in his braised bird nest with crab roe, a supremely delicate dish that calls on every bit of his thirty years of experience. “It starts with fresh female crab,” he explains. “We break it open, make the roe into a paste and stir-fry it before adding it to the swallow’s nest. The taste is very subtle and light, but it also has a wonderfully smooth and substantial consistency. By combining the two, we not only arrive at a dish that is full of flavor and texture, but one that hits all the notes for color, fragrance, and taste.” Equally inspired is Chún’s trademark multidimensional fusion dish. “Slow-cooked beef rib is our signature,” says the chef. “I combine Western cooking methods with the flavors of classic Japanese elements, including mirin, sake, and miso.” Chan’s expertise always keeps the emphasis focused squarely on the flavors of the natural ingredients. He enhances them with light, subtle accents that allow the premium components to speak for themselves. “My decades of working with Cantonese cuisine have taught me that its key features are diversity, inclusiveness, and the freshness of its ingredients—as well as the all-important wok hei, or ‘essence of the wok.’” This legendary quality is achieved by means of a technique that is notoriously difficult to master. By skillfully searing ingredients directly over extreme heat, complex, nuanced, smoky flavors are developed, while the all-important textural elements are retained. Chún’s menu is complemented by expert recommendations from an extensive list of fine wines as well as premium teas curated by a certified tea master. And the total dining experience is made complete by Chún’s sophisticated contemporary Chinese décor. An al fresco terrace makes the ideal spot for socializing or peoplewatching, and five private dining rooms are available for more intimate occasions. “Our goal,” says Chan, “is to be at the top of the list of Macau’s best Cantonese restaurants.”

行政副总厨－中餐谭炎灿融合经典与现代的元素，创造出新颖却又令人熟悉的菜式。他认为：「传统与创新的结合，会带来经得起时间考验、充满无限想象的佳肴。」他的想法一丝不苟地展现在各式美食上，包括清蒸鲜鱼蛤蜊、炖煮数小时的煲汤、美味多汁的烤肉与炖肉，还有精心制作的广东点心等。谭副总厨对于传统的尊敬，在他的菜肴中表露无遗，不受任何束缚。以蟹皇干捞官燕盏为例，这两种食材的奇妙结合，充分地展现了他三十年的烹饪资历。他解释：「先挑选新鲜的膏蟹，拆开后取出蟹膏并磨成蟹蓉，大火快炒后再加入燕窝。这道菜口味相当微妙且轻盈，质地既滑顺又浓厚。结合蟹膏与官燕盏，不仅鲜味十足、口感丰富，更是色香味俱全。」「淳」最远近驰名的料理就是多元混合式餐点，同样源于副总厨的坚持。谭副总厨透露：「慢煮干煸牛肋骨是餐厅招牌菜，结合西方烹饪方法与经典日式元素如味醂、清酒与日本面豉酱。」谭副总厨擅长体现天然食材的原汁原味，食材经他轻度调味，让顾客细细发掘箇中滋味。他表示 :「几十年来烹调粤菜让我知道，关键在于它的多元、包容与食材的鲜度，还有最重要的锅气。」要做出如此无懈可击的料理，靠的就是这种难以精通的技术。用极高温的铁锅快速地抛甩食材，带出复杂、细微及烟熏的味道，同时保留食材重要的口感。「淳」提供一系列专家推荐的美酒与认证茗茶大师的精选茶品。精致而现代的中式装潢，提升顾客的用餐享受。露天阳台搭配观看熙来攘往行人的独特景致，是社交聚会的理想场所。同时，餐厅设有五间私人包厢，为提供顾客隐密且专属的空间。谭副总厨说：「我们的目标是成为澳门数一数二的顶级粤式餐厅。」 ODE TO WINTER | TK |

Marinated fresh abalone, Sichuan style 川味油卤鲜鲍

TK | ODE TO WINTER

Intoxicating Flavors F I V E FO OT ROAD M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅．蜀道

Yang Deng Quan, Chef de Cuisine of Five Foot Road, takes guests on an extraordinary dining adventure. He leads them symbolically along the ancient silk routes with the complex flavors of authentic Chengdu dishes that are at the heart of Sichuan cuisine. The restaurant is named, in fact, for the width of the carts that traversed the Silk Road centuries ago, carrying exotic seasonings and fragrant spices. Many of those same irreplaceable ingredients are used today in the cuisine inspired by the four seasons of the Sichuan year, which are beautifully portrayed in a painting that serves as the restaurant’s visual focal point. There are few more qualified to lead the quest than a chef with

「蜀道」餐厅总厨杨登全，以川菜荟萃之地成都的丰富正宗料理，犹如遨游古丝路，带领顾客体验一场餐桌上的冒险。几世纪前，丝路上往来着众多用来运载着异国调味料与香料的贸易车辆。时至今日，这些香料仍在川菜里扮演不可或缺的角色。菜肴灵感来自四川的四季，而美丽的四季山水景致也被描绘下来悬挂于墙上，成为餐厅的视觉焦点。这位拥有 32 年资历的总厨，绝对有资格担任这场冒险的向导。风味浓烈、闻名天下的四川花椒与辣椒是川菜的灵魂，正宗川菜大师杨总厨以这些经典材料制作各式菜式，并以创新的摆盘方式呈现传统佳肴。以招牌菜泡椒龙虾仔为例，他将澳洲龙虾与辣椒一起香煎，再加入细面和大蒜。杨总厨说：「这道菜选用四川每户人家必备的泡椒，将海鲜的清甜与四川丰厚而浓烈的正宗烹调方式相结合。从豆瓣酱

Sautéed rib eye with porcini, crispy garlic and Welsh onion 山珍炒牛眼肉粒

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a remarkable thirty-two years of experience. The soul of Yang’s dishes is expressed through the unique and heady flavors of the legendary Sichuan peppercorn and chili. These classic ingredients form the basis of many traditional recipes, dishes that receive exciting contemporary touches from a true Sichuan master. As a case in point, his signature specialty of Australian lobster sautéed with chili pepper is served with vermicelli and garlic. “This dish uses the pickled hot peppers that you’ll find in every household in Sichuan. It’s a dish that brings together perfectly the fresh taste of seafood and the richness and intensity of true Sichuan cooking. “From our bean paste to our salt,” says Yang, “all the ingredients we use come from Sichuan, and every one of the chefs on our team has extensive experience with Sichuan techniques.” Another stunning plate brings fresh abalone marinated in Sichuan chili oil, a dish that requires long hours of prep to develop the subtle layers of taste permeating the succulent seafood. For guests looking for alternatives with less heat, authentic but more subtly seasoned dishes are also available. Five Foot Road’s elegant interior design interprets traditional motifs with a modern aesthetic. Each table throughout the restaurant’s open and private spaces is a unique expression of the journey along the historic trading route. A stylish tea lounge featuring calligraphic poems offers a variety of beverages, including traditional Sichuan Kung Fu tea and a selection of infused beverages. Yang views joining MGM as an important personal milestone. “It means my professional life has reached a new stage,” he says. “And it gives me the opportunity – on an extraordinary stage – to continue refining my art so that I can give every customer an unforgettable culinary experience.”

到盐巴，所有的材料都来自四川，团队里的各个厨师也都有丰富的料理川菜的经验。」另一道令人赞不绝口的菜式川味油卤鲜鲍，是将新鲜鲍鱼放入四川辣椒油中长时间腌浸，让微妙的辣椒香气渗入肥美的鲍鱼里。对于不嗜辣的顾客，餐厅亦提供辣度轻微而同样道地的料理。「蜀道」餐厅装潢结合传统与现代美学，不论是在开放或私人用餐空间，皆展现出古丝路历史通道独一无二的一面。独树一格的茶廊则以诗词字画点缀，并提供琳琅满目的饮品，从传统四川功夫茶到各式特色茗茶等一应俱全。加入美狮美高梅的团队，杨总厨将这视为个人极为重要的里程碑。他说：「这代表我的职业生涯又登上了一个新的台阶，使我有机会在这非凡的舞台上持续精益求精，进而为顾客带来难忘的味觉体验。」

Braised lobster with pickled chili and celery in bouillon 泡椒龙虾仔

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Cooking Show HAO GUO M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅．好鍋 HAO GUO CMYK

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The rhythmic thump of barbecue cleavers on wood lets guests know as soon as they walk into Hao Guo that an exciting performance is underway. With the restaurant’s vibrant show kitchen as backdrop, Chef de Cuisine Li Chi Wai spoils diners with a wealth of impeccably prepared specialties from the woodfired duck oven, sizzling woks, and dim sum steamers. Guests watch as dishes are crafted by the talented team, and they leave with a deeper appreciation of the food they’ve enjoyed and a better understanding of the skills required to create Hao Guo’s entertaining and delicious culinary experience. It’s no surprise that one of the most popular selections is traditional Beijing duck. “We’ve brought a chef from Beijing who specializes in this dish,” says Li. “We use top-quality duck, of course, and roast it over applewood. The meat is tender C79 M19 Y53 K2

剁刀一下下斩切烧味的明快节奏，让每位「好锅」的顾客一进门就知道，一场精彩绝伦的演出即将开始。李志伟总厨以生气蓬勃的开放式厨房为背景，配合柴烧鸭窑、滋滋作响的油锅以及广东点心蒸笼喷出的蒸气等，以各式无可挑剔的美食宠坏顾客的胃。在这里，顾客可观赏专业厨师团队端出一道道山珍海味，对所享用的料理充满谢意并心满意足地离开。「好锅」团队具备高超料理技艺，绝对能带给顾客富娱乐性又回味无穷的用餐体验。传统北京烤填鸭成为餐厅最炙手可热的餐点，这并不让人感到意外。李总厨说：「我们聘请一位

Roasted Beijing duck served with steamed pancakes and traditional condiments 传统京烤填鸭

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but never fatty, and it’s a beautiful red color. Chopped scallion, cucumber, and a sweet sauce are all wrapped up with the meat in a thin pancake to bring out the duck’s multiple levels of flavor.” Hao Guo’s hotpots pair premium seasonal produce from land and sea with a variety of traditional, contemporary, and herbal broths from across northern and southern China. Li’s signature favorite is braised pork belly with Chinese wine cooked in a clay pot. “It’s a dish that brings together history and culinary culture,” he explains. “I’m constantly refining the color, aroma, and taste to take the dish to new heights.”

北京地道的烤鸭大厨专门烹调这道大菜，选用高品质填鸭，以苹果木烧烤。鸭肉色泽红润，肉质软嫩不腻。配上切段的大葱、黄瓜丝与甜面酱，用薄饼卷着一起食用，带出填鸭多层次的味道。」「好锅」的火锅菜单包含顶级海陆季节食材，以及各式传统、新派、南北地区风味的药膳汤底。李总厨的精选招牌菜是花雕红烧东坡肉煲，他解释：「这是结合文化与美食传承的料理，我还在不断改进菜肴的色香味，希望将菜式做得更为极致。」

Braised pork belly with Chinese yellow wine in clay pot 花雕红烧东坡肉煲

Mix of sorghum noodles and maize noodles in chicken bouillon 晋城粗粮双色面配清鸡汤（高粱面粉+栗米面粉）

Handmade Classics MIÀN DUÌ MIÀN M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅．面對面 MIAN DUI MIAN CMYK

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“ We insist o n g e n ui n e traditional flavors,” says Chef de Cuisine Ku Chi Wa, who couldn’t be clearer about the kind of food he serves at Miàn Duì Miàn. “We believe in giving our customers an honest, authentic dining experience.” Chef Ku’s mastery of his craft, developed over a career of more than two decades, guarantees diners that he will deliver on that promise. A case in point is his special signature dish, which, like all of Miàn Duì Miàn’s offerings, is handmade in the restaurant’s open show kitchen. “Our Chinese buckwheat pappardelle are exceptional,” he says. “They have the true taste of Shanxi noodles, and by combining them with our expertly prepared stir-fried pork, we bring together the best flavors of both the south and north of China. We’re also careful to preserve the special qualities of Shanxi noodle broth – rich, thick, fresh, and fragrant. The final result is a dish that’s bursting with taste but not overly heavy.” Miàn Duì Miàn’s menu, which is served around the clock in the restaurant’s bright, casual interior, offers congee and rice selections from across Asia in addition to its tempting list of noodle and dumpling dishes. Beverage favorites range from Hong Kongstyle milk tea and lemon tea to freshsqueezed juices. “No matter how many times customers return,” says Chef Ku, “we believe they’ll always find something fresh and new. My team and I work hard to make sure that our guests always receive the very best.” C54 M63 Y75 K56

作为「面对面」餐厅的总厨，古志华 (Ku Chi Wa) 对餐厅供应的美味佳肴了若指掌。古总厨说道：「我们坚持遵循传统口味，旨在带给顾客实在而道地的餐饮飨宴。」凭借二十多年来习得的大师厨艺，古总

我们刻意保留山西面汤底的特质，汤底浓郁、醇厚、新鲜且充满香气，因此最终成品是五味俱全，但口味又不会过于浓重。」

Steamed pork wontons in chili oil and garlic sauce 红油抄手

「面对面」内装明亮舒适，二十四小时不停歇地供应餐点。菜色品种多样，包括挑

厨保证将如承诺所言，为顾客呈现道地的佳肴。

选自亚洲各地的特色粥品及饭类，还有美味

以他的招牌菜为例，这道菜和餐厅内的其他餐

诱人的手工面食及各式饺子。饮料选择从港

点均是手工制作，烹调过程就在开放式厨房中

式奶茶、柠檬茶到现打果汁等应有尽有。古

进行。他说：「我们的山西荞麦手擀面得天独

总厨说：「不论顾客来几次，我相信他们总是

厚，忠实呈现山西面食的经典口味，再配上特

能找到还没尝试过的新奇菜式。我和我的团

制小炒肉，一道融合南北风味的佳肴就此诞生。

队竭尽心力，以确保顾客吃到最棒的料理。」 ode to winter

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Bunny Mary

Louisville Julep

玛丽兔子

路易斯维尔之杯

Multiculture Cocktails B A R PAT U Á M G M C O TA I 美狮美高梅．百话廊 BAR PATUA LOGO CMKY

A masterful blend of East and West, Bar Patuá is named after the nearly lost Macanese Creole language that fuses Chinese, Portuguese, Malay, and Sinhalese. The new venue pays tribute to Macau’s complex cultural legacy and the days when traders and workers brought back exotic goods and exciting tales of adventure from around the world. Welcoming interiors in tones of beige and gold feature an eclectic mix of styles old and new, Asian and European. Cushy sofas and armchairs beckon, and cozy alcoves offer seclusion. The relaxed yet upbeat ambience provides a warm contemporary take on traditional MacanesePortuguese style and hospitality. It’s designed to be the perfect place for guests to unwind, chat, and enjoy a seriously good drink, with plenty of classics that use traditional Portuguese spirits – plus a few with a modern molecular touch. Bar Patuá’s talented team recently applied their creative juices to the time-honored Bloody Mary. Since tomato juice can be an acquired taste that some just don’t care for, the Bunny Mary was born. Using carrot juice instead gives the cocktail an irresistibly sweet and savory kick that everyone seems to like, and the drink promises to take its place as an instant classic. Other originals include the Ruby Sparkler and the Louisville Julep, but updated old favorites are always welcome too. Negronis, for instance, have only three main ingredients and one or two garnishes, but the way they're mixed can result in hundreds of different variations. And Bar Patuá has only begun to explore the delightful possibilities. C48 M68 Y75 K55

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Patuá Penicillin 百话廊盘尼西林

「百话廊」可谓中西结合的最佳典范，酒吧特意取名为「Bar

这里的许多经典调酒都使用传统葡式酒品，再加入现代元素点缀。

。「Patuá」是一种几乎被遗忘的澳 Patuá」，中文名字为「百话廊」

最近酒吧团队就在历史悠久的「血腥玛莉」上动了一点小脑

门地道语言，由葡萄牙語，马来语和僧伽罗语融合而成。这个名

筋。他们发现大多数人并没有那么喜欢西红杮汁，于是开始天马

称也致敬澳门丰富多元的文化历史，以及昔日商人和工人收获富

行空，经过几次试验，发现胡萝卜汁相当合适，新调制的「玛丽

异国风情的货品和冒险故事的美好时光。

兔子」别具风味，顿时风靡全场。

酒吧装潢温馨宜人，以米色及金色为主调，强调经典与现代

其他原创调酒还包括「红焰」与「路易斯维尔之杯」，当然

和东西方的融合，备有舒适的沙发和座椅，以及不同隔间的私人

经典调酒还是一直有它的市场。例如 Negroni，它只包含三种主

空间。放松愉悦的环境，让顾客在传统澳葡风格及热情中体会温

原料和一至两种配料，但光是这些就能做出变化无穷的各种口味，

暖的现代气息。

全看调酒师怎么调制，材料的分量稍有不同，尝起来就又是另一

「百话廊」是让顾客好好放松、谈天与享受好酒的绝佳地点。

种前所未有的滋味。

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Vicky Lau

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FEATURE

美味颂诗

The Extraordinary All Around Us A perceptive chef takes inspiration from the poetry of a Nobel laureate. BY MAMIE CHEN

• •

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG POETRY BY PABLO NERUDA

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T I N Y D R A W E R S, one for each seat, have been custom built into the dining room’s tables. In the compartments are cards reading “At Tate, we challenge you to leave your phone in this drawer for the few hours with us and enjoy the company of your guest for all the right reasons.” These words from chef-owner Vicky Lau encourage guests to set everything aside for the evening to appreciate conviviality, conversation, and the culinary journey. They are also a reflection of Lau’s attention to mindfulness and gratitude, a philosophy initially influenced by shojin

ryori, the temple cuisine of Kyoto, which enjoins diners to consciously acknowledge and give thanks for the life provided by the food. Lau’s outlook has been bolstered by her recent rereading of Pablo Neruda’s All the Odes anthology. Finding the poems’ detailed exaltations of mundane objects and concepts in harmony with the principles of shojin ryori, she has been able to translate and adopt them into her culinary expression at Tate. “Neruda wants people to see beyond the common object. By focusing on the details, he encourages them to recognize the beauty even in something that may otherwise seem very ordinary, like a bit of fruit or a pair of socks,” says Lau. “This idea goes really well with the concept of being thankful, and I hope to communicate those same intentions through my dishes.” The result has been an ongoing series of tasting menus in which each course becomes a physical manifestation of an ode paying homage to a specific ingredient or concept. Her iconic dish Ode to the Tomato was directly inspired by her first encounter with Pablo Neruda’s lyrical poem of the same name. In this work, tomatoes overflow market stalls until “the juice runs through the streets.” Fresh salads are “the day’s wedding,” in which tomatoes are “cheerfully married to the clear onion,” olive oil falls in celebration, and pepper and salt embellish the occasion with fragrance and magnetism. Lau, struck by how his use of vivid imagery had ennobled the unassuming produce, has endeavored to recreate the effect through her dish’s multiple incarnations of the fruit. The original version featured a faithful marriage of tomato and onion flavors as well as a tomato consommé to represent the juice running through the streets. Lau went on to explore the tomato in diverse forms and textures, including confit, crisps, panna cotta, tartare, and gazpacho, returning to the ode for reference and fresh inspiration with each new iteration of the dish.

TK | ode to winter

“I started this dish with the idea of highlighting the onion,” says Lau. “Especially for a vegetarian menu, it can be hard to come by vegetables with strong enough flavors. But the onion is definitely one of them.” Under her deft touch, both the pickled onions and the glazed pearl onions manifest the luminous qualities praised in Neruda’s ode.

主厨 Vicky表示：「这道菜正是为了特显洋葱之美而创作。对于素食菜单而言更是如此，用蔬菜做出味道够重的料理有一定难度，但洋葱是少数能达到此效果的食材。」在她的巧手之下，巴勃罗诗中洋葱明亮动人的特质透过腌洋葱及醋汁珍珠洋葱展露无遗。

Ode to the Onion O DA A L A CEB O LL A

(excerpts, translated by Stephen Mitchell)

Onion, shining flask, your beauty assembled petal by petal, they affixed crystal scales to you and your belly of dew grew round in the secret depth of the dark earth. I have praised every living thing, onion, but for me you are more beautiful than a bird of blinding plumage; to my eyes you are a heavenly balloon, platinum cup, the snowy anemone’s motionless dance. The fragrance of earth is alive in your crystalline nature.

Vinegar-glazed pearl onion, pickled onion, and onion cream atop puff pastry 醋汁珍珠洋葱、腌洋葱及洋葱酱酥皮派

Ode to the Tomato O D A A L T O M AT E

(excerpt, translated by Stephen Mitchell)

the tomato, luminary of earth, repeated and fertile star, shows us its convolutions, its canals, the illustrious plenitude

Marinated fruit tomato, tomato consommé, and micro tomatoes with Pommery mustard ice cream and green-pea purée 腌渍水果番茄、番茄清汤及超迷你番茄佐波马利香槟芥末籽冰淇淋及豌豆泥

and the abundance without pit, without husk, without scales or thorns, it hands us the gift of its fiery color and the totality of its coolness.

Vicky表示：「这道菜的作法前前后后改了好几次，但我喜欢这种挑战，从全新角度切入广受欢迎的菜式，找到更好的诠释方式。」最新版「番茄颂」中的水果番茄以中式梅醋腌渍后放上多种小型草本植物装饰，搭配清除杂质、轻轻冒泡、清澈有如昆布茶的番茄清汤，以及摘自番茄藤、可直接食用的新鲜超迷你番茄。上桌前，Vicky出人意表的放上一匙波马利香槟芥末籽冰淇淋，再缀上一些腌黄芥末籽。她说：「当成某种蕃茄酱及芥末的组合即可。我喜欢先用一些大家熟悉的食材，接着再加入意想不到的元素，制造惊喜。」

“The presentation of this dish has been reinvented a few times,” says Lau. “I enjoy the challenge of taking a popular dish and finding a way to come up with an even better interpretation.” The current Ode to the Tomato features a fruit tomato marinated with plummy Chinese vinegar and garnished with a medley of micro herbs. It is accompanied by a lightly effervescent tomato consommé that has been clarified, made into a kombucha, and adorned with micro tomatoes designed to be eaten directly off the vine. The dish is finished with a surprising quenelle of Pommery mustard ice cream atop pickled yellow mustard seeds. “Think of it as a ketchup-and-mustard-like combination,” says Lau. “I always like to put in something that people can relate to and then throw them off with an unexpected element.”

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

Ode to the Plate O D A A L P L AT O

(excerpt, translated by Ilan Stavans)

A sharing plate of Kagoshima beef strip loin with Sichuan peppercorn purée, radish, and beef tea (not pictured) 鹿儿岛牛腰脊肉分享盘佐四川花椒泥、白萝卜及牛肉茶（不在图中）

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Smooth, sheer vessel, you were spawned by the spring in a stone after which the human hand repeated the pure hole and the potter copied its freshness so that time in its thread could place it definitively between man and life: the plate, the plate, the plate, ceramic hope, saintly earthen bowl, precise lunar light in its halo, rounded beauty of a diadem.

餐

After reading Neruda’s “Ode to the Plate,”

餐厅内餐桌的每个座位前均有一个精致小巧的定制抽屉，抽屉里面安放

Lau thought it would be interesting to

时，尽情享受与您的宾客共度的时光。」这一席话出自餐厅老板暨主厨

dedicate a dish to the vessel it’s served on. For maximum visual impact, she

，不妨将手机放入抽屉几小着一些小卡，小卡上面写着：「来到『Tate』

刘韵棋 (Vicky Lau) 手笔，希望客人可以暂时抛开一切事物，专心享受一整晚的热情款待、欢欣畅谈及美食之旅。

这段话也反映出 Vicky 对专注力及感恩之心的体会。她早年深受

京都寺庙「精进料理」的烹饪哲学影响，该哲学主张生命存在与食物密

custom-ordered an oversized plate that

不可分，用餐时应有所体悟、心存感激。这造就了她那精细入微而又

took up nearly the entire top of a table

Neruda) 的《诗歌总集 (All the Odes)》，发现字里行间与自己的想法多

富含谢意的独特风格。Vicky 近来重读智利文豪巴勃罗 • 聂鲁达 (Pablo

有重合之处。诗中对于平凡事物及理念的描写及欣喜之情与「精进料

for two. For her autumn menu, she’d already been developing a dish named

Ode to Warmth, featuring strip loin and a warming beef tea and garnished with the heat of Sichuan peppercorn purée. So she merged the two ideas. The dish

理」的精神不谋而合，她也欣然把诗句中的理念转化并通过「Tate」餐厅各式料理展现。

「巴勃罗想要大家看到平凡事物的不平凡之处。藉由 Vicky 表示：

对细节的描写，即使平凡无奇的小事，如一小块水果或一双袜子，他都鼓励我们发现其美妙的一面。这与我时时心存感激的想法并无二致，我

希望透过料理表达这个概念。」成果透过一系列的主厨品味菜单呈现，每道菜宛如一首颂诗，赞扬特定食材或概念之美。

招牌的「番茄颂」灵感正是源自巴勃罗同名抒情诗，Vicky 第一次

读到「菜场摊上番茄满溢，汁液淌过街道」的文字便触动不已。新鲜沙拉正是「当日婚礼」，番茄与「清透的洋葱共谐连理」，洒落橄榄油作为庆祝，胡椒与盐带着诱人香气及吸引力，更是增色不少。巴勃罗的

is plated as two portions and served to guests who must lean in as if huddling together over a fire. “Some people

might feel a little uncomfortable at first, but there’s warmth to the action.”

文字让前述情景跃然纸上，原本平凡的食材顿时散发耀眼光彩。对此，

Vicky 深感佩服，也受激励而拿出看家本领，透过多种蔬果重现诗中描

绘的效果。

原始版本以番茄和洋葱风味的叠加，以及番茄清汤呈现「汁液淌

过街道」的意象为主。Vicky 持续改良，试过油封、酥炸、意式奶酪、

鞑靼生蕃茄及冻汤等作法，探索番茄的各种表现形式及口感。「番茄颂」原诗不仅作为 Vicky 的参考，也是每回研发新版本的最佳灵感来源。

在「蜜蜂颂」中，Vicky 更是展现对于各种小细节的讲究及从中体

悟到的诚挚感谢之意。这道法式小甜点是受到巴勃罗名作启发的一场感官飨宴，味道及口感无懈可击外，同时顾及视觉、听觉及嗅觉体验。菜

读完巴勃罗的「餐盘颂」，Vicky 便

心生为盛载料理的餐盘创作菜式的有趣想法。为了营造最强烈的视觉效

未到声音先至，在嗡嗡声中，蜂巢以四小部分解构上桌，以蜂蜜作为所有糕点甜味基底。这道甜点的多个亮点更是直接取材于巴勃罗的诗文内

容，如「劈啪作响的飞行声及黄金蜂巢」化为白巧克力蜂蜜脆片蜂房，

「火山闪耀」则以白色锥状的蜂蜜蛋糕来呈现，上面再缀以几滴媲美「琼浆玉露」的顶级蜂蜜。Vicky 特制的可丽露放进抹过蜂蜡及奶油的铜锡

模中过烤，再滴上蜂蜜，浑圆饱满犹如珍珠，与巴勃罗「让蜂蜡筑起绿

果，她特别订制了一个几乎占满整张

色雕像、让蜂蜜洒落于无数舌尖」一句所述情景遥相呼应。

双人桌的特大餐盘。秋季菜单里本就

之后，他们总是会停下来品味这道甜点。对大多数人来说，蜂蜜一向装

有一道以牛腰脊肉、暖口牛肉茶及四川花椒泥为主角的「温暖颂」。 Vicky 将两者合而为一，「餐盘颂」摆盘分成两区，用餐时需要往前靠才吃得到，犹如挤在火堆前取暖一般。她表示：「有些人一开始可能不太习惯，但此一动作确实让人倍感温暖。」

「当客人看到蜂巢，发现蜂蜜是以各种方式呈现 Vicky 自豪表示：」在罐子里，却忘记原本是由蜜蜂酿制，美丽的蜂巢才是其原始面貌。除了以诠释巴勃罗以食物为主题的诗作，Vicky 亦继续寻求更多突破。她说：「我现在不会受巴勃罗所限，但他在每首颂歌中所表达的、关注细节的精神，依然会渗透在每道佳肴的制作过程之中。」同时，一如智利大诗人对于年龄增长等抽象主题的探讨，Vicky 也开始搜寻自己的领域定位，投入更多心神思考。目前的尝味菜单以「和谐颂」作为开端，向客人传达在一道菜中让所有元素完美交融的重要性。「香港颂」及「缅怀颂」则是传统中菜的现代改良版，代表的是 Vicky 近来回归自身文化根源及对于家乡烹调传统的探索。她解释：「身为艺术家及厨师，我要找到眼前工作的意义所在，不能胡诌。我无法控制客人对菜品的意见，但总是希望他们能够感受到我们投注的热情，至少我呈上的几道菜能引发他们思考。」

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Lau deconstructs an apple pie, capturing in a jar the absolute essence of the fruit. People harvest an abundance of apples in the autumn, she explains, and what they can’t consume fresh, they preserve as jam and dried fruit: “So this dish is as much about preserving as it is about apples.” An apple espuma made from apple jam forms the base of the dessert, which is topped with a terrine of thinly sliced apples caramelized and baked overnight. Vicky 解构苹果派，将多种不可或缺的元素巧妙置于玻璃罐中。她解释，秋天是苹果丰收的季节，来不及消耗的苹果通常制成果酱或苹果干保存：「这道菜呈现的就是苹果保存过程中的精髓。」以苹果果酱制作的苹果泡沫为甜点基底，甜点顶端还点缀了层层经过一整晚焦糖化及烘焙的苹果薄片。

TK | ODE TO WINTER

Ode to the Apple O DA A L A MANZANA (excerpt, translated by Ilan Stavans)

You, apple, I want to celebrate you by filling my mouth with your name, by eating you. You’re always new like nothing else, or no one, always as if just fallen from Paradise: plentiful and pristine, reddened cheek of aurora!

Apple pie ice cream atop apple terrine and apple espuma, with rum jelly and rum-soaked raisins 苹果派冰淇淋，以苹果冻及苹果泡沫点缀，佐以兰姆酒果冻及兰姆酒渍葡萄干

W WITH ODE TO BEES, Lau demonstrates how true appreciation is gained in the perception of the smallest of details. The mignardise course is a banquet for the senses, complete with the tastes and textures – and even the sights, sounds, and scents – evoked by Neruda’s poem. With some fanfare, a literally buzzing hive arrives at the table and is deconstructed to reveal an assortment of petits fours, all sweetened with a touch of honey, many based directly on the verses. Neruda’s “crackling honeycomb of fli ht and gold” takes the physical form of white chocolate honey crunch. “Volcanoes glisten” in the guise of white cones of honey gateaux topped with honeyed “drops of ambrosia.” And Lau’s canelés, first baked in copper tins seasoned with beeswax and butter and then topped with pearls of honey, are a delightful reply to Neruda’s call to “let the wax erect green statues, let honey spill in infinite tongues.” “When guests see the combs and understand that honey is present in every single piece,” explains Lau, “they can’t help but pause a moment and think about it. For many people, honey comes from a jar – it’s easy for them to forget that it originates in a beautiful hive and is made by insects.” Lau has also moved beyond interpreting only the poet’s food-related odes. “I’m starting to break past Neruda now,” she says, “but the dishes are still done with his spirit of drawing attention to the details – they’re critical in an ode.” And just as the Chilean poet had also delved into intangible concepts like aging, Lau has begun identifying her own areas for further contemplation. Ode to Balance opens her current tasting menu, conveying to guests that a good dish should achieve a delicate harmony among its elements. Ode to Hong Kong and Ode to Nostalgia, both modern renderings of traditional Chinese dishes, reflect a recent return to her cultural roots and the culinary exploration of her heritage. “As an artist and as a chef, there must be meaning in what I am doing,” says Lau. “It can’t be gibberish. I can’t control how my guests interpret my dishes, but ultimately I want them to feel the passion from us, and at least I have provided them some food for thought.”

TK | ode to winter

The mignardise course serves as a tribute to Hong Kong’s urban beekeepers. “I’d been researching urban farming to source more local ingredients,” says Lau. “Unfortunately, I didn’t find much produce, because it’s so hard to farm anything here, but there are a lot of beekeepers, some on rooftops and others in small farm settings. I really appreciate their work and want to support it, so that’s why I decided to dedicate a course to Ode to Bees.”

Vicky 以此法式小甜点向香港市区的养蜂人致敬。她表示：「我关注都市农耕许久，希望使用更多地方食材，可惜本地食材产出有限，毕竟在香港岛上务农真的很难，但利用屋顶或以小农形式作业的养蜂人倒有不少。我真的很感谢他们的辛苦付出，所以才会创作这道『蜜蜂颂』，仅以这道菜表达我对他们的支持。」

Ode to Bees O DA A L A ABEJA

(excerpt, translated by Margaret Sayers Peden)

buzz, buzz, buzz above the earth’s endowments, family of gold, multitude of the wind, shake the fire from the flowers, thirst from the stamens, the sharp, aromatic thread that stitches together the days, and propagate honey

Deconstructed hive of petits fours, including white chocolate honey crunch honeycombs, banana vinegar dark chocolate honey bonbons, ginger honey bonbons, canelés, honey gateaux, honey passion fruit marshmallows, and raspberry honey gateaux 蜂巢分解为四小部分，包括白巧克力蜂蜜脆片蜂房、香蕉醋黑巧克力蜂蜜夹心糖、姜汁蜂蜜夹心糖、可丽露、蜂蜜蛋糕、蜂蜜百香果棉花糖及树莓蜂蜜蛋糕

Ode to a Chestnut on the Ground

O D A A U N A C A S TA Ñ A E N E L S U E L O (excerpt, translated by Stephen Mitchell)

Out of the bristling foliage you fell complete: polished wood, glistening mahogany, perfect as a violin that has just been born in the treetops and falls offering the gifts locked inside it, its hidden sweetness,

Chestnut green-tea mousse, chestnut ice cream, candied chestnut, and passion fruit crémeux with chocolate rochers and a crisp tuile 栗子绿茶慕斯、栗子冰淇淋、糖煮栗子、百香果蛋奶酱佐巧克力球及酥脆瓦片

TK | ODE TO WINTER

finished in secret among birds and leaves, the school of form, lineage of firewood and flour, oval instrument that holds in its structure unblemished delight and edible rose. Up there, you abandoned the bristling husk that half-opened its barbs in the light of the chestnut tree

“When I read ‘Ode to a Chestnut on the Ground,’” says Lau, “the image was quite interesting to me.” Since most people associate chestnuts with their mahogany-colored, burnished inner shells, Lau gives her guests pause by replicating instead their green, spiny outer capsules with chestnut green-tea mousse embellished with fried green-tea soba noodles.

回想阅读《地上栗子颂》时，Vicky表示脑中浮现了非常有趣的场景。说到栗子，一般人想到的是红木般的颜色以及光滑的内馅，但Vicky偏要反其道而行：以绿茶慕斯及酥炸绿茶荞麦面条模拟栗子绿色及多刺粗糙的外壳上桌，带给客人不同的想像。

ODE TO WINTER | TK |

甜蜜如「诗」

Poems of Honey and Flour Vicky Lau’s evocatively imagined pâtisserie captures the essence of Hong Kong. BY MAMIE CHEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG ILLUSTRATIONS BY REBEKAH NICHOLS

INGREDIENTS

香港知名糕饼店「Poem Patisserie」的橱窗展示别具巧 IN POEM PATISSERIE’S playful window display, a neon sign’s nostalgic 思，带有老香港情怀的霓虹招牌散发微光，路过行人无 glow invites passersby to “Capture Hong Kong” as classic arcade-game 」几个不注意到「Capture Hong Kong（捕捉香港时刻） claws hover over four exquisitely decorated cakes. A moment’s gaze 大字，同时可以看到娃娃机的夹子在四个精心设计及妆 makes fingers instinctively twitch to seize control of an invisible joy点的蛋糕上盘旋。看着看着，手指也不禁动了起来，仿 stick and maneuver a claw over one of the prized delicacies. But which 佛正在小心翼翼操作一根隐形控制杆，希望能抓到精美 one? The elegant Chinese-watercolor-inspired Shan Shui? Or perhaps 的糕点。选哪一个好呢？是以中国水墨为灵感、气质高 the honey mousse cake named Urban Bee Farm, a whimsical salutation 贵的「山水」呢，抑或是向地方养蜂人致敬的天马行空 to local beekeepers that’s textured and tinted to resemble a dusting of 之作「本地蜂场」，这是以翻糖花朵及蜜蜂点缀的蜂蜜 pollen and accented with fondant flowers and bees? 慕斯蛋糕，外型及用色均模拟洒落的花粉，匠心独具。 “When I design cakes,” says chef-owner Vicky Lau, “I think about 「设糕饼店主厨兼创办人刘韵棋 (Vicky Lau) 表示： the different groups of people who’ll be buying them: Which would 计构思时，我脑中想的是可能会购买蛋糕的不同族群， someone buy for their mother? Which for a friend? Some are more 比如哪一个适合买给妈妈，或者哪个给朋友等等。有些 general, and some are more fun.” 所有场合都适用，有些则比较好玩。」 It’s no surprise that two of her creations equally entice the 不难想像，主厨 Vicky 的两款蛋糕不仅掳获了年 young and the young at heart: Urban Bee Farm and the more recently 轻人的心，也让不少心态依旧年轻的人着迷不已：「本 launched Hong Kong Style Waffle, a peanut butter crémeux and honey 地蜂场」以及近作花生黄油蜂蜜海绵蛋糕「香港风窝 sponge molded and flavored to mimic the city’s quintessential street 夫」，这款窝夫的形状和调味均与香港代表性街头小吃 snack. And while the sumptuous Red Date cake, partially velvety, par相似。另外，丝绒及光滑质感各半的豪华「红枣」蛋糕 tially glossy, may tempt eyes of all ages, it handily wins over the older 可说是天然、有嚼劲的中式超级食物与巧克力蛋糕湿润 generations by incorporating into a moist chocolate cake the naturally 绵密口感的完美融合，吸引各年龄层的目光，老一辈的 sweet and chewy Chinese superfood. 顾客更是为之疯狂。 All of Poem’s cakes, in fact, trace 「Poem Patisserie」所 their origins to local flavors or popular 有蛋糕都其来有自，与香 iconography from around Hong Kong. Lau, 港周边的地方美味或知名 who has frequented her fair share of the DULCE, SIEMPRE 意象有密切关系。Vicky 是 city’s classic dessert cafés, has a particular (by Pablo Neruda, excerpt, translated by Alastair Reid) 香港各大知名点心咖啡店 affinity for Chinese sweet soups but finds 的常客，对于中式甜汤情 that the traditional recipes’ emphasis on Verses of pastry that melt 有独钟，却发现「糖水」 the tong sui (literally, “sugar water”) often into milk and sugar in the mouth, 的传统作法中，口感这个 leaves texture woefully unexplored. “There air and water to drink, 重要元素常沦为配角。她 are so many great combinations in tong the bites and kisses of love. 观察道：「糖水有许多很棒 sui,” she says, “like mango, pomelo, and I long for eatable sonnets, 的组合，像芒果、柚子、 sago or sweet potato with ginger. I thought 西米露或番薯加上姜。我 poems of honey and flour. they could be even more interesting when 想多加一些口感的话，有 combined with texture, so I began experi趣程度也会倍增，所以开 menting and developing the idea through 始在『Tate』做各种不同的尝试。透过甜点开发新口 my desserts at Tate. I found they really work as cakes, and that’s actu味，我惊喜发现做成的蛋糕味道极佳，这也促成『Poem ally how Poem Patisserie came about.” Patisserie』糕饼店问世。」 Upstairs at restaurant Tate, Lau pays homage to individual ingre，Vicky 以聂鲁在同栋建筑上层的餐厅「Tate」 dients and high concepts in her “All the Odes” tasting menu. But her

Sweetness, Always

ground-floor venture, whose full name is Poem Patisserie of Honey and Flour by Tate, is a fond tribute to her hometown, and each cake is an edible love sonnet revisiting the flavors of childhood memories and recasting them in a contemporary light. With the new year, Lau is readying the launch of Poem Patisserie’s latest chapter, themed around chinoiserie-inspired creations. “It marries well with what we’re already doing to take Chinese ingredients and apply French techniques in making the cakes,” she says. “That itself is already quite representative of chinoiserie. I think East-meets-West decorative ideas will be very interesting to translate into cake designs.” Lau insists that Chinese ingredients will always remain at the core of her concepts, but with a new world of sweet inspiration still to explore, the possibilities seem endless.

达的《诗选全集》主厨菜单礼赞个别食材之美及蕴含的崇高理念。来到一楼，全名为「Poem Patisserie of Honey and Flour by Tate」的店内则以她的家乡为主轴，每个蛋糕都是可食用的颂诗，唤起 Vicky 儿时记忆中的味道，以最当代的手法重新呈现。

Vicky 近来配合新年推出最新力作，以中国风为题，「结为「Poem Patisserie」掀开全新篇章。她兴奋表示：合中式食材及法式技巧制作蛋糕的理念相当吻合，原本就已经带有许多中国色彩了。『当东方遇见西方』的装饰主旨运用在蛋糕设计上，光想就让人觉得有趣。」

Vicky 坚持，任何创作都要以中式食材为概念的核心。世界如此之大，甜点灵感何其多，想必还有无穷无尽的可能性等待发掘。

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INGREDIENTS

Hong Kong Fruit Tart 香港水果馅饼

P R E S E RV E D P L U M , G UAVA , K U M Q UAT 话梅，芭乐，金桔

“We wanted to make a guava fruit tart with preserved plum, because we love the combination,” says Lau. “The plum’s sweet-and-sour flavor is quite interesting to add to desserts.” Known locally as mah wui, this distinctively intense sweet-sour-salty staple of traditional Chinese dried food and candy shops is an unusual addition to a Western-style pâtisserie, particularly so when introduced in the form of preserved-plum frangipane or jelly and paired with delicately flavored guava crème chiboust and tangy kumquat marmalade. A gorgeous medley of typical wet-market produce, including dragon fruits, star fruits, and kumquats, provides the final flourish to Lau’s luscious ode to Hong Kong fruits.

Vicky说明：「从一开始就想把芭乐水果塔和话梅凑在一起，我们很喜欢这个组合。话梅的酸甜滋味加到甜点上感觉非常俏皮。」话梅带强烈咸甜酸的味道，为中式干货及糖果蜜饯店中代表性传统食品之一，和西式糕点放在一起可说相当少见，如果做成话梅杏仁奶油饼或果冻，再与味道细腻的芭乐希布斯特奶油馅及呛鼻的金桔果酱相搭配，那更是少有人尝试的创举。最后若再加上火龙果、杨桃及金桔等市场农产的豪华组合，便是Vicky精心打造、令人垂涎的香港水果颂歌。

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INGREDIENTS

Yangzhi Nectar 杨枝甘露

YEUNG JI GUM LO, MANGO, CO CONU T 杨枝甘露、芒果、椰子

Yeung ji gum lo, or Yangzhi Nectar, is the poetic Cantonese name for a delightfully refreshing dessert that combines a smooth, creamy base of mango

粤语中「杨枝甘露」听来诗情画意，这是

purée and coconut milk with crisp bursts of pomelo

以柔顺绵密的芒果泥及椰奶为底，搭配爽

pulp and delicately chewy sago pearls. A perennial

脆柚子果肉及西米露细腻口感的甜品，味

favorite in Hong Kong since it was introduced by Lei

道清新，吃了令人心情雀跃不已。「杨枝

Garden’s head chef in the 1980s, the sweet soup has

甘露」最早于80年代由知名餐厅「利苑」

been reinvented in countless incarnations, including

主厨所创，至今历久不衰，一直是港人最

puddings, ice creams, mooncakes, and bottled drinks.

爱的甜品，多年来市场上看到不少改良版本，如「杨枝甘露」布丁、冰淇淋、月饼

On revamping the dessert soup as a cake, Lau remarks,

及瓶装饮料等。

“It depends on which forms will maximize each flavor and how you think you’ll enjoy it the most. Some ingredients are harder to manipulate than others.”

在这个把糖水改造为蛋糕的过程之中，Vicky强调：「我以能让各种味道发挥效果的形式为主，客人能尽情享用的方式

Her interpretation finesses the aromatic Alphonso mango into a silky mousse and complements it with

为依归，食材各有不同，有些驾驭起来确实难度较高。」

sago panna cotta. She omits pomelo entirely in favor of dialing up the intensity of the coconut in the forms of

她把有芒果之王称号的阿芳索芒果融入丝

pandan cream and dacquoise.

般滑顺的慕斯里，与西米制成的奶冻相搭配，柚子则是刻意略过不用，以特显椰子斑兰奶油及达克瓦思蛋白饼的诱人风味。

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INGREDIENTS

Red Date 红枣

A G E D M A N D A R I N P E E L , D R I E D R E D D AT E 陈皮、红枣干

TK | ode to winter

East welcomes West in Lau’s novel blending of dried Chinese red-date purée into a dark chocolate cake. “There are many different ways to add sweetness in Asian desserts. You don’t only have to use sugar. I really like the sweetness that comes from red dates,” she says. “Chocolate can be challenging to balance because it is so dominant. But I think red dates have a strength in their flavor that goes really well with it.” She adds chenpi, or aged mandarin peel, to the chocolate ganache for similar reasons. Another common flavoring agent in Chinese soups, chenpi exudes a nuanced aroma that lends depth to chocolate’s inherent flavor notes.

Vicky结合中式红枣泥及黑巧克力蛋糕的创新作品简直是「东西融合」的最佳展现。她指出：「中式糕点增加甜度的方式有很多种，不只有加糖一个选项，红枣的天然甘甜就很对我的胃口。巧克力当主角惯了，要找到与之抗衡的味道颇具挑战性，不过红枣味道中有种劲道，和巧克力搭配起来再适合不过。」基于相同理由，巧克力甘纳许里面也加了中式汤品常见的调味材料陈皮，散发的细致气息让巧克力原有的风味变得更加深邃，引人入胜。

Shan Shui 山水

T I E G UA N Y I N T E A , K U M Q UAT 铁观音、金桔

“Traditional French cuisine uses a lot of dairy,” says Lau, “but Chinese food does not.” This discrepancy remains one of Lau’s greatest challenges in reinventing Chinese dishes with French techniques or in using Chinese ingredients with classic French recipes. “Sometimes it’s hard to twist and turn with that. When it comes to dishes for Tate, the dairy part stumps me.” It can prove equally problematic for Poem’s cakes: dairy plays an indispensible role in French pâtisserie but is largely absent from Chinese sweets. Moreover, certain Chinese ingredients resist taming. “Chinese tea can be difficult to infuse into dairy,” Lau discovered, “because it doesn’t absorb very well.” In making her tieguanyin mousse, she uses a cold-infusion method to minimize the oolong tea’s natural bitterness and further balances it out with the sour acidity of the kumquat pâte de fruit and the sweetness of the sablé crust.

TK | ode to winter

INGREDIENTS

说到中法料理的不同之处，Vicky指出：「传统法国菜用很多乳制品，中菜则完全不是这么一回事。」此差异也正是她每每运用法式技巧创作中菜，或试着将中式食材融入地道法式作法中时所面临的最大挑战。她表示：「要有所反转或颠覆相当困难，特别是在『Tate』开发菜式时，常陷入不知该拿乳制品如何是好的窘境。」此难题在「Poem Patisserie」一样难解：乳制品为法式糕点里不可或缺的要角，却鲜少出现在中式甜品之中，更别说要驾驭部分中式食材的困难程度了。主厨分享自己的观察，透露：「要把中国茶和乳制品相搭配可说困难重重，吸收不了太多味道。」因此，在制作铁观音慕斯时，她特别运用冷泡法将乌龙茶天然的苦涩降到最低，佐以金桔做成的水果酥饼派皮，独特酸度可中和苦味，达到完美平衡。 ode to winter

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PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

街头滋味「登堂入室」

street smart

Grilled King Prawn and Pomelo Salad 烤大虾佐柚子沙拉

TK | ODE TO WINTER

Stylish design and sophisticated Asian fusion cuisine give Mama San the edge.

CELEBRATED CHEF WILL MEYRICK, known for his unique restaurant-quality Southeast Asian street food, is the creative force behind smash hit Mama San Hong Kong. The restaurant remains as popular as the day it opened, thanks to the authenticity and imagination of the food conceived by Meyrick and his talented team. On one of his regular visits to the venue, Meyrick recently worked on an enticing new round of offerings with Indonesian head chef I Gede Budiana, or, as he is affectionately known, Chef Budi. While humble street snacks may serve as inspiration, Meyrick and Budi take care that each of Mama San’s dishes is made with top-tier ingredients, prepared with inventive finesse, and presented with an eye for beautiful detail. A case in point is a new raw-bar dish, Tuna Betel Leaves with Lemongrass, Green Tomato, Sambal Matah, and Balinese Bumbu. The sashimi-cut tuna, resting strikingly on a fresh betel leaf, has been marinated in spices to merge with the flavors of the other ingredients. Bursting with freshness from both the tuna and the lemongrass, the dish is paired with a subtle sambal. “It’s a fusion of Japanese and Indonesian based on a famous street food dish,” explains Budi. “The tuna and spices are deliciously complementary – a little bit spicy, a little bit sour, balanced by the betel leaf.” Staying true to its Thai origins is the new Grilled King Prawn and Pomelo salad. Smoky butterflied prawns form a bed for a savory medley of pomelo, Asian celery, garlic, cherry tomatoes, fresh mint, and red nam jim dipping sauce. Another must-try is Mama San’s signature Dendeng Balado. So in-demand is this Indonesian dish that it has remained on the menu since the restaurant’s opening, and with good reason. Beef short ribs are slowcooked, twice-cooked, and caramelized until the meat is richly unctuous and fork-tender. The ribs are matched with pounded chili and kaffir lime and topped with deep-fried holy basil. “This restaurant,” says Budi, “is all about presenting authentic street-food specialties, sometimes in their pure form, other times as fusion. And our new dishes perfectly reflect Mama San’s DNA.”

I Gede Budiana

Tuna Betel Leaf with Lemongrass, Green Tomato, Sambal Matah, and Balinese Bumbu 鲔鱼配槟榔叶、柠檬草、绿番茄、生辣椒酱和巴里岛香料

赫赫有名的 Will Meyrick 主厨，最拿手的是将东南亚街头小吃升华成餐厅级美食，同时也是香港 Mama San 餐厅源源不绝的创意泉源。时至今日，餐厅依然像刚开幕时一样门庭若市，这都得归功于 Will 还有他的厨师团队呈现的道地创意佳肴。 Will 近期与来自印尼的主厨 I Gede Budiana，大家亲切的称他 Budi，正联手开发新的诱人菜式。街头小吃或许是 Mama San 餐厅的灵感源头，但 Will 与 Budi 却利用无懈可击的原料配上创意巧思，再加上他们的艺术眼光，让餐桌上的菜毫不马虎。餐厅的生食菜式就是一个绝佳的例子，鲔鱼搭配槟榔叶、柠檬草、绿番茄、生辣椒酱和巴里岛香料。一片片的鲔鱼肉堆叠在新鲜槟榔叶上，每片肉都经过上述香料的腌渍提味。一入口，鲔鱼与柠檬草的鲜美在口中迸发，生辣椒也巧妙地融入其中，

却不过份抢镜。Budi 解释：「这是道有名的街头小吃，揉合了日式与印尼风格。鲔鱼与印尼香料可说是相得益彰，微微的呛辣中带点酸，在槟榔叶上达成口味的平衡。」另一道新的泰式正统菜烤大虾佐香柚沙拉。带点烟薰香气的烤大虾从中间下刀，平铺在柚子、亚洲芹菜、香蒜、樱桃番茄、新鲜薄荷与泰式酸甜酱下方，成为最美味的基底。还有一道必吃的招牌菜印尼辣牛肋排。这道广受好评的美食从开业以来就一直在菜单上屹立不摇，牛肋排经过慢炖与重覆烹煮再予以焦化，逼出丰富的油脂，使肉质更美味鲜嫩。肋排先配上碎辣椒和青柠叶，最后再放上酥炸罗勒叶作点缀。 Budi 说：「这家餐厅专注呈现最道地的街头特色小吃，时而分毫不差的还原，时而融合新元素。每道新菜式都让 Mama San 的美味基因完美呈现。」 ode to winter

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现代欧培拉

modern opera With the help of Candia Professionnel, a top pastry chef transforms a classic.

“WHEN I WAS LITTLE,” says Jean-Marc Gau-

cher, executive pastry chef of The Mira Hong Kong, “I’d see my grandparents enjoying opera cake, but I never really cared much for it.” It was precisely that lack of interest that inspired Gaucher to come up with his own appealing contemporary take on the famous French dessert, which by tradition includes layers of sponge, ganache, and buttercream topped with chocolate glaze. “The time came for me to add a bit of a twist,” he says. It wasn’t, however, to be merely a straightforward revision of a tired recipe from such an accomplished pâtissier. Gaucher’s career had begun with his

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own bakery in his native Nice and continued on with a stint at fine-dining restaurant La Panetière in New York State. Then followed an illustrious path across Asia and the Middle East. It’s now been sixteen years since Gaucher debuted his version of the opera cake, which today is served at The Mira Hong Kong’s COCO café as the CocOpera. Over the years, the chef has tweaked his recipe numerous times, and he believes he’s finally found the perfect formula. “I kept what I thought were the standard components – sponge and buttercream – and added praline and coffee. They’re all flavors I really like.”

His recipe also calls for Candia 82% fat Unsalted Butter. “When you use Candia to create a buttercream,” Gaucher explains, “it combines so smoothly with the other ingredients because it has a low melting point. It stays creamy without turning into liquid.” And Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream, he finds, maintains a silky texture throughout the cooking process. “In creating crowd-pleasing desserts,” says Gaucher, “a lot comes down to the memories you have. Candia butter and cream remind me of what I always used in France and their flavors take me right back home.”

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

艺。16 年前，他首次公开新版欧培拉，现在他将这款甜品带到 The Mira Hong Kong 的时尚饼店 COCO，命名为 CocOpera。多年来，Jean-Marc 对食谱作出多次调整，他相信现在已掌握了无懈可击的配方。他说：「我保留最基础的原料，也就是海绵蛋糕与奶油霜，再加入果仁糖及咖啡。这些都是我最喜爱的食材。」 Jean-Marc 的欧培拉食谱也需要搭配 Candia 82% 无盐黄油。他解释道：「由于 Candia 黄油的熔点较低，用来做奶油霜

时，能与其他食材完美融合，还可以长时间维持霜状的质地而不会变成液化。」他更发现 Candia Professionnel 稀奶油能在整个烹饪过程中，始终保持如丝绸般的柔滑质地。 Jean-Marc 说：「要做出受群众喜爱的甜点，很多时候得看你有什么回忆。而 Candia 的黄油与 Candia Professionnel 的稀奶油让我仿佛回到当初在法国做甜点的时候，它的味道更让我想起老家熟悉的滋味。」

Jean-Marc Gaucher

The Mira Hong Kong 的行政饼厨 JeanMarc Gaucher 说：「小时候，我常看到祖父母在吃欧培拉蛋糕，但我当时并没有在意。」这道有名的法式甜点传统上包含了层层堆叠的海绵蛋糕、甘纳许还有覆盖着巧克力外壳的黄油霜，但恰恰就是这样的不在意，让 Jean-Marc 能不受影响地创作出富有现代巧思的欧培拉。他说：「我想是时候为欧培拉加入一些新变化。」然而，这位才华洋溢的甜点大师却非仅仅只对传统食谱进行了简单修改。 Jean-Marc 的职业生涯始于在法国尼斯的自营传统法国面包糕饼店，随后他远赴纽约高级法国料理餐厅 La Panetière 工作，之后更游走亚洲与中东等地区献 ode to winter

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

OPERA CAKE

COFFEE GANACHE

PRALINE BUTTERCREAM

ASSEMBLY

JOCONDE SPONGE

150 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 200 g fresh milk 50 g coffee beans 330 g dark chocolate (melted) 90 g Candia Unsalted Butter

120 g egg yolk 120 g sugar 200 g fresh milk (hot) 150 g Italian meringue* 500 g Candia Unsalted Butter 250 g praline paste (half almond, half hazelnut) *Italian meringue: 50 g egg white 100 g water 200 g sugar

Coffee Standard bar of chocolate Caramelized hazelnuts Chocolate icing and edible silver (optional)

200 g eggs 140 g icing sugar 140 g almond powder French meringue* 40 g cake flour 35 g Candia Unsalted Butter (melted) *French meringue: 70 g sugar 260 g egg whites

1. Whisk eggs, icing sugar, and almond powder until smooth (using a planetary mixer for best results). 2. Separately, make a French meringue by whipping sugar and egg whites until smooth but not too stiff. 3. Combine the two mixtures; add cake flour with a sieve; add melted Candia Unsalted Butter. 4. Spread mixture on baking tray; bake at 200°C for 8 minutes until golden brown.

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1. Mix together the Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream, fresh milk, and coffee beans in a pan and warm for 15 minutes. 2. Strain mixture, discarding beans, and add melted dark chocolate. 3. Cool to 40°C and, using a hand blender, add Candia Unsalted Butter. FEUILLANTINE CRISP 100 g milk chocolate 40 g feuillantine

1. Melt milk chocolate at 40°C. 2. Add feuillantine, stirring gently. 3. Roll out mixture between sheets of baking paper to desired shape and a thickness of 2 mm. 4. Freeze for 2 hours.

1. Prepare Italian meringue: a. Whisk egg white to soft peaks. b. Boil water and 200 g sugar to 120°C. c. Slowly pour syrup into egg white, whipping until cooled to room temperature. 2. Whisk egg yolk and 120 g sugar together, add hot milk, and cool to 35°C. 3. Combine with Italian meringue and Candia Unsalted Butter. 4. Add praline paste, mixing until smooth.

1. Use a cake mold as a guide to cut joconde sponge layers. 2. Place layer of sponge in bottom of mold. 3. Add layers in following order: feuillantine, ganache, sponge, ganache, sponge (final sponge layer placed upside down). 4. Brush top with warm coffee. 5. Add layer of buttercream, creating a wavy pattern with a comb. 6. For final layer, melt 100 g of standard chocolate bar and roll out between sheets of baking paper. When cooled, trim to fit mold and place on top. 7. Optional final touches: cut shapes out of chocolate layer and fill with caramelized hazelnuts; decorate with chocolate icing and edible silver. 8. Unmold and serve.

欧培拉蛋糕

咖啡甘纳许

果仁糖黄油霜

组合

150克 Candia Professionnel 稀奶油

120克蛋黄

咖啡

200克新鲜牛奶

120克糖

巧克力棒

乔孔达海绵蛋糕

50克咖啡豆

200克新鲜牛奶(热)

焦糖榛果

200克蛋

330克黑巧克力(融化)

150克意大利蛋白霜*

巧克力糖霜及食用银箔(非必需)

140克糖霜

90克 Candia 无盐黄油

500克 Candia 无盐黄油

140克杏仁粉法国蛋白霜* 40克蛋糕粉 35克 Candia 无盐黄油（融化） *法国蛋白霜: 70克糖 260克蛋白

1. 混和蛋、糖霜、杏仁粉并打发直到滑顺状（用搅拌机效果最佳）。 2. 另外混和蛋白及糖，打发制成蛋白霜直到滑顺状而不至过硬。 3. 将第一和第二步骤的材料混和，加入过筛的蛋糕粉，再加入融化的Candia 无盐黄油。 4. 将混和物均匀铺在烤盘上，以200°C烘烤八分钟直至呈现金黄咖啡色。

250克果仁糖膏(半杏仁半榛果)

1. 取一平底锅，放入Candia Professionnel稀奶油、新鲜牛奶与咖啡豆，加热15分钟。 2. 过滤混和物，取出过滤后的咖啡豆，再加入融化的黑巧克力。 3. 待其冷却至40°C，加入 Candia无盐黄油并用电动搅拌器搅拌。脆片酥饼 100克牛奶巧克力 40克脆片

1. 以40°C将牛奶巧克力慢慢融化。 2. 加入脆片，缓缓搅拌。 3. 将混和物倒在两张烘培纸之间，用擀面棍压成想要的形状，厚度须为2毫米。 4. 冷冻两小时。

*意大利蛋白霜: 50克蛋白 100克水 200克糖

1. 准备意大利蛋白霜: a. 将蛋白打发至形成松软的尖峰状。 b. 将200克糖加入水中加热至120°C。 c. 将糖浆慢慢倒入蛋白中，不停搅拌直到降至室温。 2. 将蛋黄与120克糖混和打发，加入热牛奶，再冷却至 35°C。 3. 加入意大利蛋白霜与 Candia 无盐黄油混和均匀。 4. 加入果仁糖膏，搅拌直至均匀滑顺。

1. 以蛋糕模辅助，裁切出一层一层的乔孔达海绵蛋糕。 2. 将第一层海绵蛋糕放入蛋糕模底部。 3. 将材料依序放入：脆片酥饼、甘纳许、海绵蛋糕、甘纳许、海绵蛋糕(最上层海绵蛋糕需反面放置)。 4. 将最上层海绵蛋糕刷上温热的咖啡。 5. 加入一层奶油霜，并用梳子梳出波浪状。 6. 将100克巧克力棒融化，倒入两张烘培纸之间均匀铺开。待其冷却后裁切以符合蛋糕模形状，再放入蛋糕模上作为最后一层。 7. 此步骤非必需：将最上层巧克力裁出任意孔洞，填入焦糖榛果，再用巧克力糖霜和食用银箔点缀。 8. 取走蛋糕模即可上桌。

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EVENT

众星云集经典荟萃

when stars align Seven internationally recognized chefs create Macau’s most dazzling culinary event of the year.

TK | ODE TO WINTER

1. Alain Ducasse: Riviera Reverie 蔚蓝海岸幻想曲 2. Tam Kwok Fung 谭国锋: Reunion 团圆 3. Fabrice Vulin: Perfect Day 忘忧日 DAVID HARTUNG (12)

4. Hidemichi Seki 关秀道: Dual Heritage 传承 5. Kwong Wai Keung 邝伟强: Opulent Aspiration 宏愿 6. Noah Sandoval: Balancing Act 平衡之道

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IN CELEBRATION of the tenth anniversary of Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau, Melco Resorts & Entertainment welcomed guests to City of Dreams Macau, its flagship integrated resort, for the second annual Michelin and Robert Parker Wine Advocate Gala Dinner.

The extraordinary event, entitled Star-Studded Memories, was an epic culinary journey through the treasured recollections of seven star chefs, a remarkable menu that was accompanied by equally remarkable wines selected by Robert Parker.

RIVIERA REVERIE 蔚蓝海岸幻想曲 Gamberoni, delicate jelly and caviar 鲜虾配啫喱及鱼子酱

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The gala’s sumptuous courses were inspired by the meaningful memories of chefs from some of the world’s most renowned Michelin-starred restaurants: Alain Ducasse of Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco (three stars), Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon in Macau (two stars), Kwong Wai Keung of Hong Kong’s T’ang Court (three stars), Hidemichi Seki of Tenku RyuGin in Hong Kong (two stars), Noah Sandoval of Oriole in Chicago (two stars), and Fabrice Vulin of The Tasting Room in Macau (two stars). These notables were joined by Hong Kong celebrity chef Nicholas Tse. The event opened with an earthshaking drum performance and the dramatic entrance of the first course, prepared by chef Alain Ducasse. More than five hundred servers entered the ballroom to the beat of the drums, serving every diner at exactly the same moment. With a synchronized flourish, the cloches were removed to reveal Ducasse’s dish, Riviera Reverie, a luxurious combination of gamberoni, delicate jelly, and caviar. Ducasse first created his dish in 2012 for the twenty-fifth anniversary of Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco, a major starting point in his career and the place where his culinary style became deeply rooted in the traditions and ingredients of the Riviera. “I wanted the dish to seduce

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

EVENT

REUNION 团圆 Poached free-range chicken in ginseng broth 参汤浸走地鸡

新濠博亚娱乐邀请众多贵宾到旗下的旗舰娱乐度假村，参加第二年由米其林与葡萄酒评论出版商 Robert Parker Wine Advocate 合作举办的「星」色晚宴，庆祝《米其林港澳指南》十周年以及《米其林港澳指南 2018》的隆重推出。这场精彩的盛宴主打星光璀璨的回忆，将由七位星级主厨带领宾客体验他们精心打造的美食回忆之旅。当然，这样美好的佳肴一定得搭配 Robert Parker 精选的上好美酒。这场盛大晚宴上，多位全球知名的米其林星级餐厅名厨将心中具有意义非凡的回忆融入了现场的每道菜肴。当晚出席的星级名厨包括来自摩纳哥三星餐厅「Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse」的 Alain Ducasse、澳门两星餐厅「誉珑轩」的谭国锋、澳门两星餐厅「御膳房」的 Fabrice Vulin 香港三星餐厅「唐阁」的邝伟强、香港两星餐厅「天空龙吟」的关秀道、以及芝加哥两星餐厅「Oriole」的 Noah Sandoval。此外，香港明星厨师谢霆锋也加入了这个星光熠熠的阵容。晚宴开场先是惊心动魄的击鼓表演，紧接着登场的是 Alain Ducasse 准备的第一道佳肴。五百多位服务生随着鼓声节奏进入宴会厅，分毫不差地同时呈上菜肴。在

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EVENT

the most delicate and demanding palate,” he says, “and at the same time to encapsulate the taste and flavors of the Mediterranean. If I had to summarize the taste of the region in a nutshell, this would be it.” Chef Tam Kwok Fung from City of Dreams’ Jade Dragon followed with Reunion, a savory dish of poached free-range chicken in ginseng broth. “When I was a kid,” Tam recalls, “we’d have chicken only during festival season. I have memories of visiting my hometown with my mother, and our grandma would make chicken for us, especially in autumn or winter. We could have this dish only once or twice a year, and that’s why I’ll always remember the taste.” Chef Fabrice Vulin of The Tasting Room met the local lobster fishermen while working in Morocco, and it was dining on their fresh catch and ripe watermelon that inspired him to create his dish Perfect Day. “I was eating the melon along with the lobster,” he said. “The fruit was very juicy, the lobster was very good, and I thought the combination would be amazing – I loved the association of flavors.” Tenku RyuGin’s noted chef Hidemichi Seki presented the next dish, aptly named Dual Heritage. He blanched slices of Miyazaki A4 wagyu beef lightly in kombu dashi, then topped it with Chinese supreme broth jelly, white miso nama nori paste, and Hokkaido sea urchin. “This dish pays homage to my childhood memory of Chinese flavors,” says Seki, “and to my father’s influence on my culinary journey. Although I’m Japanese, I was brought up with Chinese food, and I’ve always been obsessed with Chinese supreme broth.” Chef Kwong Wai Keung’s Opulent Expression, a dish of braised South African abalone with shiitake mushroom, is a luxury the chef could only dream of tasting as a young boy. “This dish brings back the memory of my first taste of abalone,” he says. “I was very excited, and my first impressions

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PERFECT DAY 忘忧日 Brittany blue lobster tart, watermelon and Yuzu vinaigrette 布列塔尼蓝龙虾挞，西瓜及日本柚子醋汁

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

欢欣而整齐一致的舞步中，菜肴上的玻璃盖被掀开来，露出名厨的拿手好菜－以奢华的鲜虾搭配细致的凝冻与鱼子酱制成的「蔚蓝海岸幻想曲」。 Alain Ducasse 第一次做出这道菜是在 2012 年，当时为了庆祝位于摩纳哥的「Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse」餐厅二十五周年纪念日。这家餐厅是他厨艺生涯的起点，也是他蔚蓝海岸式烹饪风格的基石。他说：「我希望这道菜能满足最挑剔的味蕾，同时也希望能带出属于地中海的独特风味。若说要给这个地区的口味一个概括，这道菜会是我的选择。」新濠天地旗下粤菜餐厅「誉龙轩」谭国锋师傅以令人垂涎的参汤浸鲜鸡「团圆」担纲第二道菜。谭师傅回亿道：「小时候，只有过年过节才吃得到鸡肉。那时我与母亲回家乡探亲时，尤其是秋冬时节，外婆总会做鸡肉料理给我们吃。这道菜一年里只能吃到一两次，所以它的美味总令我难以忘怀。」「御膳房」主厨 Fabrice Vulin 曾在摩洛哥工作，他与当地抓龙虾的渔夫聚头，共享新鲜龙虾与西瓜的经验，让他有了今天「忘忧日」这道菜的灵感。他说：「我那时将龙虾与西瓜配着吃，西瓜非常多汁，龙虾则美味可口，我想如果将这两者结合，一定会令人食指大动，我总是喜欢这样混搭食材。」「天空龙吟」主厨关秀道接着负责下一道菜，巧妙地命名为「传承」。他将宫崎

DUAL HERITAGE 传承 Chilled miyazaki wagyu beef shabu shabu, hokkaido sea urchin and Chinese supreme broth jelly 冷涮宫崎和牛锅佐北海道海胆及中华高汤啫喱 ODE TO WINTER | TK |

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were of its fragrance and freshness. Every time I cook this dish, it reminds me of my time working as a kitchen apprentice and that I should never forget my aspirations to master Cantonese cuisine.” For the final savory course, chef Noah Sandoval from Chicago’s Oriole presented Balancing Act, cured and roasted Racan pigeon breast dusted with onion ash, salt, and sugar and served with foie gras, dehydrated blueberries, blueberryand-smoked-black-pepper sauce, mustard seed pickled with maple syrup, and charred cipollini onion. “It’s sweet, it’s salty, it’s aggressive,” says Chef Sandoval. “I worked for a chef – I’d definitely call him a mentor – and it was the first time that anyone taught me how to balance salt and sugar. I could never have done this if it wasn’t for him.” The menu concluded with dessert from Nicholas Tse: rose profiteroles, rose-waterand-lychee jelly, dehydrated rose petals, and caraway-seed breadsticks. Accompanied by a performance from Hong Kong pop diva Joey Yung, it was a heavenly ending to an unforgettably star-studded evening.

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OPULENT EXPRESSION 宏愿 Braised South African abalone with shiitake mushroom 曰本花菇炆南非鲍鱼

EVENT

BALANCING ACT 平衡之道 Cured and roasted Racan pigeon breast, charred cippolini onions, smoked black pepper and dried blueberries 烧法国鸽胸肉，奇波利尼洋葱，烟黑胡椒及蓝莓干

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

A4 级和牛轻轻地在日式柴鱼高汤中短暂汆烫，捞起后再以中华顶级凝冻、白味噌紫菜膏与北海道海胆作点缀。关秀道说：「这道菜是我对中华料理的童年回忆，还向父亲对我的烹饪启蒙致敬。虽然我是日本人，却是被中华料理给带大的，也对中华顶级肉汤深深着迷。」「唐阁」邝伟强师傅的「宏愿」，是用花菇搭配精炖南非鲍鱼，亦是邝师傅年轻时梦寐以求的奢华美食。他说：「这道菜让我想起第一次品尝鲍鱼的时候，当时非常激动，鲍鱼的香气与新鲜感给我留下非常深刻的印象。每当做这道菜，便会想起那段还是烹饪学徒的日子，也提醒自己勿忘初衷，一定要成为粤菜大师。」芝加哥「Oriole」的 Noah Sandoval 以美味的「平衡之道」作为最后一道主菜。这道菜是先腌再烤的法国鸽胸洒上洋葱、盐和糖再与肝酱、蓝莓干、蓝莓烟熏黑胡椒酱、枫糖腌芥末籽，还有焦化奇里波尼洋葱一同上桌。Noah 说：「甘甜气味中带有浓重咸香，口味相当独特，我曾经在一位尊称为师父的厨师底下工作，他是第一位教我如何平衡盐与糖的技巧的人。没有他就没有今天的我。」玫瑰泡芙、荔枝玫瑰水凝冻、干燥玫瑰花瓣与葛缕子面包的组合，是明星厨师谢霆锋亲自操刀的甜点，也是晚宴的完美收尾。上甜点之际，香港女星容祖儿也同时在舞台上表演，如此梦幻的场面，为这众星云集的夜晚，画下永生难忘的休止符。

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ROSE BLOSSOM 蔷薇之约 Rose profiteroles with rose water and lychee jelly, Nicholas Tse 谢霆锋

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dehydrated rose petals and caraway seed breadsticks 玫瑰泡芙及荔枝啫喱，玫瑰花瓣及香芹籽面包条

DAVID HARTUNG (2), JOHN SEK

EVENT

More than five hundred guests attended the glittering event at City of Dreams Macau.

JOHN SEK (3)

五百多名嘉宾出席了这场在澳门新濠天地举办的精彩餐饮盛会。

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New Horizons 澳式酿酒新境界

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WINE

KIMBERLEY LOW/WINE AUSTRALIA (2)

Lucy Morgan meets seven of Australia’s most innovative wine influencers.

DRIFTING OVER HUNTER VALLEY on a still November morning, a hot air balloon’s gaudy pattern blazes against the grey dawn. Far below, hectares of land striated by dense green rows of vines mark Australia’s oldest continuous winemaking region. “Nearly two hundred years ago,” says Bruce Tyrrell, a fourth-generation winemaker from one of the country’s first families of wine, “the government made an excellent decision to encourage the planting of vines here in Hunter Valley. They sent a Scottish botanist called James Busby to Europe in the early 1800s to collect vine samples, and Australian winemaking was born.” The industry flourished for a century, until international wars and economic crises saw the number of vineyards dwindle and output diminish. By the 1970s, the advent of “cask wines,” cheap, easy-drinking table wine dispensed from a vacuum bag in a box, helped revive interest in domestic wine-drinking. Then, during the ’80s and ’90s, an international appetite for fruity, high-alcohol Australian reds and equally potent oak-heavy whites put Australia back on the world wine map. But now, twenty-first-century Australian winemakers are changing their approach and moving away from fruit-bomb reds and buttery chardonnays toward more restrained

11 月，一个宁静的上午，来到猎人谷闲晃。晨光熹微，远方有个热气球映出灿烂艳丽的花纹。往下俯瞰，只见数公顷的土地上，一排排绿色庄园星罗棋布，正是澳洲历史最悠久的酿酒区。澳洲元老级酿酒家族第四代酿酒人 Bruce Tyrrell 细数过往历史，他表示：「澳洲政府相当英明，早在 200 多年前便开始在猎人谷推动葡萄栽种事业，19 世纪初期还委派了植物学家 James Busby 远赴欧洲收集不同葡萄品种。至此，澳洲酿酒业拉开序幕。」接下来的一世纪，酿酒业蓬勃发展，但后来国际战事及经济危机爆发，澳洲的

葡萄园饱受冲击，产量也大幅萎缩。直到 1970 年代，价廉又饮用方便的盒内真空袋便携式葡萄酒－「盒装酒」问世，才让当地酿酒业再现生机。80 及 90 年代，充满水果味、高酒精含量的澳洲红酒及浓烈的橡木桶味白酒备受国际品酒人士青睐，这让澳洲重回全球葡萄酒版图。进入 21 世纪，新一代澳洲酿酒人正不断调整作法，从果味浓郁的红酒及黄油味的霞多丽 (chardonnay) 转向味道较为收敛、高雅的酒品。另一位猎人谷在地酿酒人 Andrew Thomas 说明：「过去几十年，我都是在研究怎么让葡萄过度发酵、酒精浓度更高以及酒体更浓厚，但现在下手没那么 ode to winter

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Andrew Thomas, Hunter Valley winemaker

natural convection and help keep the temperature steady. Many larger-scale wineries are producing lines with reduced sulfur to meet consumer demand for low-additive wines. In the vineyards, popular varietals like shiraz, semillon, and chardonnay are making way for grapes which often better suit the terroir of particular regions and which pair well with lighter dishes. In the cooler Canberra District, Collector Wines presents a delicate nashi-pear-fragranced grüner veltliner, a white varietal associated with Austria. Mount Majura Vineyard in the Australian Capital Territory specializes in the Spanish red grape tempranillo. Grown on temperate mountainsides studded with pines and gum trees, it produces wines with a warm earthiness. Cooler-climate growers have rebranded shiraz, a grape indelibly associated with Australia. David Reist of Clonakilla wines in the Canberra District prefers the alternative name syrah to differentiate their perfumed, European-style wines from the powerful shiraz incarnations found in South Australia. The increasing demand for food-friendly wines is a by-product of Australia’s dynamic culinary scene. The stereotypical steak on the

barbie is now just one facet of a sophisticated cosmopolitan cuisine reflecting the diversity of the national population. Modern Australian food features marinated raw fish, tropical fruits, and Asian spices alongside game meats like emu and kangaroo. A growing sentiment among Australians to eat better and more responsibly rivals an insatiable curiosity for untried ingredients and flavors. Consumers are turning to elegant, balanced, carefully crafted wines that match their adventurous gastronomic proclivities. The interest in premium Australian wines extends well beyond the nation’s borders. While Australian reds have long been popular with Chinese consumers, there’s growing interest in white and sparkling wines, which pair well with Cantonese cuisine, especially seafood dishes. In 2017, 63 percent of premium Australian wine exports were destined for China, and, among the top fifty export destinations, Hong Kong ranks second in average value. In fact, according to Stuart Barclay, general manager of marketing for Wine Australia, “Greater China has become the most important export market for Australian wine.”

KIMBERLEY LOW/WINE AUSTRALIA (3)

and elegant products. Andrew Thomas, another Hunter Valley winemaker, explains: “Going back a couple of decades, I was trying to get the fruit overripe for higher alcohol and fuller flavor, but these days, I have a more hands-off approach. My whole brand is about letting the different vineyards show their character and less about winemaker intervention.” Thomas represents a nationwide trend in modern-day premium Australian wines, the same philosophy followed by winemaker Ken Helm in the cooler-climate Canberra district. His hightech winery is designed to show off the purity of award-winning rieslings made in a sterile, temperature-controlled, anaerobic environment. “I’m just the custodian of the grapes,” he says. “We adopt a minimalist approach, so that what you get in the bottle is as close as possible to what came out of the vine. This state-of-the-art riesling room means I make the minimum of mistakes. We’re trying to preserve what the vineyard has done and capture it in the bottle – like a genie.” At the opposite end of the technology spectrum is Peter Windrim of Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard. He works his plantings by hand and then plays music to his wines as they ferment, with the same objective as Helm: to let them tell their stories of terroir and vintage without excessive intervention. Paradoxically, such “minimalist” winemaking is labor-intensive, whether high-tech or artisanal techniques are used. The natural wine movement has captivated increasing numbers of Australians who’d like to be able to drink as sustainably and mindfully as they eat. From wine lists at Michelin-starred restaurants to artisanal pop-up events, unfiltered and additive-free wines are reaching a growing audience. Their popularity has influenced more traditional producers to experiment with natural wine techniques like whole-bunch fermentation, in which stalks as well as skins are fermented to achieve extra freshness from the stalk tannins. Another trend is the use of concrete “egg” fermentation tanks that promote

The Biodynamic Farmer

Peter Windrim, Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard, Hunter Valley NSW

15 年前，我们的葡萄园便获得生物动力及有机农业认证。原因再简单不过：没有比打造一个与生物环境全然、全境一致的农场更正确的事了。庄园前身为牧牛场，为土壤施肥转种葡萄藤时，我们相当尊重过往的传统作法，即在牛角内塞入肥料，埋入地面等待熟成。牛角的几何形状有独特的流线，并非圆锥形，到末端会呈漩涡状。六个月后再挖出来，牛角内的肥料有如丝般柔滑，变得非常肥沃。肥料选在傍晚土地开始呼吸时混入土壤，养分会更加容易吸收。最开始做生物动力农业时，想说能驾驭大自然真酷，殊不知我其实大错特错。自然万物皆在农场工作，我只是其中的一小部分，能与不同生物并肩合作，而非凌驾其上，感觉真的很美妙。自觉一切操之在手，便是全盘皆输的一刻。越来越多传统农家认识到生物动力农业栽种葡萄带来的好处，其中一大优势在于年间产量及品质愈趋稳定，波动减少。

Fifteen years ago, our vineyards became certified biodynamic and organic. The reason for this was simple: this all-embracing, allencompassing uniformity with the biology of the farm seemed such a positive thing to do. Our property was originally a cattle ranch. We respect that former use of the land when we feed the soil for the vines. We fill cow horns with manure and bury them to mature. The geometric shape of the cow’s horn has a flow to it – it isn’t conical, it has vortex at the end. After six months, we dig the horns up and the manure within has become rich and silky. We feed the soil with this in the evening when the earth is breathing in, so the nutrients are better absorbed. When I first started with biodynamics, I thought how cool it was to employ nature – but that was my greatest mistake. I am one of the parts of nature at work on this farm and that was the most amazing thing – working with the biology rather than thinking you are governing it. The moment you think you are in control of what is going on is the moment you lose the game. The rewards of biodynamic viticulture are being recognized by the broader, traditionalist farmers. The main thing they are noticing is that we have less fluctuation from year to year with our yields and our quality.

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重了。我的品牌主要是以特显各家葡萄品种的特色为主，降低酿酒人的介入程度。」 Andrew 代表的是现在席卷全澳洲一流酿酒业的最新趋势，来自气候凉爽的坎培拉地区同业 Ken Helm 也相当认同此种酿酒哲学。曾获奖肯定的雷司令 (riesling) 在无菌、厌氧、全年温控的环境中成长，采收后送入高科技打造的酒厂酿造，特显纯粹原味。Ken 表示：「我只是这些葡萄的监护人而已。我们采用极简酿酒法，尽量让酒瓶里每一滴酒喝起来都像葡萄原液那般。这个雷司令酿酒室采用最新科技控管，可以将人为错误降到最低。如同采蜜的精灵那样，我们做的其实就是保留葡萄园所凝结的精华，再放到酒瓶里。」 Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard 生物动力农业酒庄的 Peter Windrim 则是另一个极端。他亲手处理栽种的每一步骤，还在葡萄酒发酵期间播放音乐。然而，他与 Ken 有着相似的目标：让葡萄酒诉说自己的故事，展露其成长风土的特色，并减少人为介入。说来有趣，不管是前述的科技挂帅或现在的职人风格，如此「极简」的酿酒法却是劳动密集型产业。这个追求天然的酿酒运动吸引了越来越多崇尚「永续」及谨慎饮食模式的澳洲消费者。从米其林星级餐厅酒单到酿酒人快闪活动，青睐未过滤、无添加葡萄酒的消费群正不断壮大。在新兴趋势的影响下，原本较为传统的酒厂也开始尝试一些天然酿酒法，如整串发酵酿酒法，即葡萄梗及葡萄皮一同发酵，以收葡萄梗的单宁含量，增加葡萄酒的清新感。亦有酒厂启用鸡蛋型的水泥发酵罐促进自然对流以及维持温度稳定。不少大型酒厂甚至开始生产低硫系列，符合消费者想要低添加葡萄酒的需求。相对于庄园常见的葡萄品种，新兴葡萄品种正不断崛起，如切拉子 (shiraz)、赛美蓉 (semillon) 及霞多丽等。这些新兴的葡萄品种更能配合特定地区风土条件品尝，也可搭配较为清淡的料理。例如，在天气凉爽的坎培拉地区，Collector Wines 酒庄端出带有梨子气息、味道细腻的奥地利白

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葡萄品种绿维特利纳 (grünerveltliner)。澳洲首都领地的 Mount Majura Vineyard 酒庄则专攻西班牙红葡萄品种添帕尼优 (tempranillo)。这个品种生长于满是松树及桉树、气候温和的山脚边，酿的酒蕴含着大地的温暖韵味。不少位于凉爽地区的酿酒人费尽心力重新打造与澳洲有深厚渊源的葡萄品种切拉子。然而，坎培拉 Clonakilla Wines 酒庄的 David Reist 偏好使用品种的另一个别称希哈 (syrah)。使用这个品种酿造的欧式葡萄酒带有香芬气息，与南澳切拉子所酿、味道强烈的酒有所区别。适宜搭配各种美食的天然葡萄酒需求大增，这是澳洲餐饮产业蓬勃发展的意外收获之一。一般印象中的澳式 BBQ 牛排现在只是广大都会餐饮文化中的一小环，也反映出澳洲人口组成的多元性。当代澳洲

餐饮相当丰富，包括腌渍生鱼、热带水果、亚洲辛香料及鸸鹋或袋鼠等当地野味。目前可以看到，吃得好、为自己餐饮负责的新兴运动不断壮大，与光谱另一端不断尝试新食材及新风味的好奇派呈现拉锯。消费者也将注意力转移到典雅、平衡以及悉心酿制的葡萄酒，以符合充满冒险精神的餐饮偏好。顶级澳洲佳酿的魅力其实早已超越国界。澳洲红酒长期以来备受中国消费者欢迎，可与广东菜，特别是海鲜料理搭配的白酒及气泡酒的需求也与日俱增。2017 年，顶级佳酿出口就有高达 63% 销往中国。前 50 大外销市场中，香港的平均单价高居第二。诚如澳洲葡萄酒协会行销总经理 Stuart Barclay 所说：「大中华区已成为澳洲葡萄酒最重要的出口市场。」

KIMBERLEY LOW/WINE AUSTRALIA, JOHN LAURIE (DOMINIQUE PORTET ), SMALL FOREST (ATSUKO RADCLIFFE)

WINE

The Sake Lover Atsuko Radcliffe, Small Forest Winery, Upper Hunter, NSW Growing up in Japan, I was very interested in brewing sake, but thirty years ago this traditional industry was closed to women. I studied microbiology at university and went on to become the first female winemaker in Japan before moving to Rosemount Winery in Upper Hunter, Australia. At the end of 2008, I received a job offer out of the blue by Urakasumi Sake Brewery in Miyagi Prefecture. My husband encouraged me to accept, so I spent eighteen months working as a kurabito (cellar hand), looking after the starter culture – previously a no-go area for women. I really enjoyed my time in the brewery, but I am a winemaker, so I returned to Australia and now run Small Forest winery in Upper Hunter. Small Forest is the English translation of my Japanese maiden name. Sake-making technique is amazing, with centuries of history, but what I really learned from my experience was to be sensitive to my surroundings and appreciate what is around me. Sake and winemaking are all about terroir.

我在日本长大，一直对清酒酿制有浓厚兴趣，但 30 年前，此传统技艺仍禁止女性参加。我在大学研读微生物学，接著成为日本首位女性酿酒人，之后移居澳洲猎人谷北部，加入 Rosemount Winery 酒庄。2008 年底，当时宫城县知名的浦霞清酒制造商的突然接洽让我受宠若惊。我的先生鼓励我接受邀约，接下来整整 18 个月，我以「藏人 ( 酒厂工人 )」之姿进入过往所谓的女性禁区，照顾清酒酵母。那段时间很开心，但我终究不能忘记酿酒事业，于是再次返回澳洲，在猎人谷北部经营自己以娘家姓为名的「小林酿酒厂」。有数百年历史的清酒酿造技术博大精深，但当时真正学到的是对于周遭环境应保持高度敏感，随时抱持感恩的心。清酒及酿制葡萄酒的共通点无他，便是风土条件。

The Bordelais

Dominique Portet, Dominique Portet, Yarra Valley, Victoria I was born in Bordeaux, the ninth generation of winemakers in my family. My son Ben, a winemaker here in Australia, is now the tenth. My father was the régis-

我出生于波尔多，为酿酒世家的第九代。我的儿子 Ben 也是澳洲当地的酿酒人，亦是第十代传人。父亲是 Château Lafite-Rotschild 拉菲古堡酒庄的葡萄园及酿酒厂管理人，我们都备受他的启发。我可以说是每天喝拉菲古堡葡萄酒长大的，自然而然也学会如何欣赏好的东西。

2000 年，我选在亚拉河谷创立酒庄，凉爽的天候相当适合以波尔多式酿酒法生产葡萄酒。我们秉持法式酿酒哲学，即不走捷径，用法国人的方法酿造低酒精含量、优雅以及芳香的醇酒。酒庄以赤霞珠为主，同时也栽种马贝克及梅洛作为混酿红酒之用。身为法国人，对玫瑰酒也有特别喜好，以赤霞珠、切拉子及梅洛混酿而成，味道相当清爽。玫瑰酒颜色一定要漂亮，味道要清新脱俗，它的甜味全由水果而来。这支酒入口后，让我回忆起在南法搭配玫瑰酒享用扇贝海鲜的大学岁月。

seur (vineyard and winery manager) at Château LafiteRothschild. We were inspired by him. When you grow up drinking Lafite every day, you learn to appreciate good things. I founded this winery in 2000. It is in the Yarra Valley, which has a cool climate ideal for the Bordeaux style of winemaking. We have a very French mindset – we don’t cut corners. We make wines the French way, elegant and fragrant with lower alcohol levels. I focus on cabernet sauvignon, but I have planted malbec and merlot so I can make a red blend. As a Frenchman, I also love rosé wines and make a refreshing blend from cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, and merlot. Rosé needs a good color and must be refreshing. Any sweetness should only come from the fruit. This wine reminds me of eating coquillages (shellfish) and drinking rosé in the sunshine during my university years in the South of France. ode to winter

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WINE

The Anthropologist

Behn Payten, Payten ＆ Jones Wines, Yarra Valley, Victoria

我读过关于一群巴拿马猴子的故事：它们守在树旁，静待莓果发酵达到最佳酒精含量后才摘下食用，之后都变得醉醺醺的。我想猴子一定是用口腔来判断莓果是否已经熟成。随时间不断演进，味觉成为灵长类赖以生存的重要工具：酸味代表还未熟成，可能导致生病；苦味则可能与毒性有关。我想将法则应用到酿酒上。有无可能酿出的酒让鲜少碰酒的人只凭天生的味觉也可欣赏品评，同时也能满足惯常接触酒的人，即满足那些所谓饱经训练、鉴别能力较强的味蕾？我们循此脉络，以葡萄藤及摘采时机为重点，健康的葡萄藤等于健康的葡萄酒，酿酒设备为次，不以豪华取胜。我们只以采收时节葡萄的味道为依归，顺此作法酿制的葡萄酒果香、酸度及单宁味都相当平衡，成功避免打开令人闻之色变的苦味或酸味「开关」。

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KIMBERLEY LOW/WINE AUSTRALIA (BEHN PAYTEN), JAMES BROADWAY (SARAH CROWE )

I read a story about a group of monkeys in Panama who wait until berries on a certain tree start to ferment and reach the right alcohol content before feasting on them and becoming intoxicated. This made me consider that monkeys must use their palates to judge exactly when the berries are ready. The sense of taste in primates is an evolutionary survival trait: sourness is linked to underripeness, which can make you sick; bitterness is linked to poison. I wanted to apply this idea to a winemaking context. Can we make wine in a way that can be appreciated by someone who is unfamiliar with wine – by simply appealing to their inherent palate – but that will also appeal to those who’ve been around wine their whole lives, whose palates are “trained” and sophisticated? This has led us to focus more on the vineyard (healthy vines = healthy wines) and picking times than on trying to be fancy in the winery. If we focus simply on the flavor of the grapes at harvest time, we tend to find that the fruit, acid, and tannin profile in the wines we make are in balance and any off-putting bitterness and sour “triggers” are avoided.

The Trendsetter

Sarah Crowe, Yarra Yering Vineyard, Yarra Valley, Victoria

I joined Yarra Yering in September 2013 as winemaker and am excited to be focusing on a single iconic vineyard site. I was named James Halliday 2017 Winemaker of the Year after review of the wines from my first-ever vintage, the 2014. It was an amazing feeling to get such recognition. James Halliday is the greatest authority (since Dr. Bailey Carrodus, Yarra Yering’s founder) on the history and the wines of this vineyard, so to receive this accolade from him was truly wonderful and totally unexpected. I think I would always find joy in making wine – the connection to the land, growing a crop and turning it into something that brings people such pleasure. There is excitement in producing both single-varietal wines that express the unique site at Yarra Yering and the recognized blends of Dry Red Wine No. 1 (Bordeaux inspired) and No. 2 (Northern Rhone inspired). We can produce wine the way we believe is right, setting the trends rather than following the fashions of the day. There is great power in that. I believe the trend for lighter, medium-bodied, fragrant wines will continue as wine becomes more and more a part of our social lifestyle.

2013 年 9 月，我成为 Yarra Yering winery 酿酒厂一员，有机会将重心放在一家知名葡萄园上让我非常兴奋。评审在鉴定完我平生酿造的第一支酒「2014 年」之后，将我选为 2017 年 James Halliday 年度酿酒人，获这份肯定的感觉真的太棒了。继

Yarra Yering 创办人 Bailey Carrodus 博士之后， James Halliday 是这片庄园史上最伟大的葡萄酒权威，从他手中接过如此殊荣除了令人欣喜若狂，也完全是意料之外。我会持续从酿酒过程中挖掘乐趣，享受与土地的连结，把一手栽种的作物变成带给他人莫大愉悦的美妙之物。酿造单一品种葡萄酒展现 Yarra Yering 酒庄的独特风格，或 1 号不甜红酒 ( 波尔多风 ) 及 2 号不甜红酒 ( 北隆河谷风 ) 混酿都相当好玩。我们选择正确的方式酿酒，创造而非追随现代的潮流，这蕴含了非常强大的力量。轻盈、中等酒体及味道芳香的葡萄酒会持续流行，并将逐渐成为我们社交生活的要角之一。

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WINE

The Philanthropist

Richard Harkham, Harkham Winery, Hunter Valley, NSW

My grandmother Aziza made natural wine for her family in Israel; now Harkham is the only fully committed kosher winery in Australasia. We have a rabbi supervising every step of the winemaking process, and our wine is natural, with minimal intervention. I believe God’s gift to the world is wine. We take fruit from the earth, put it into a vat and it starts to move and make noises. It is alive and it uplifts your soul. I was in a terrible motorcycle accident three and a half years ago, and I nearly lost my leg. It wasn’t the thought of dying that scared me, but the thought of what I could have done better in my life; so I created my own charity. We are building schools for disadvantaged children around the world. I am slowly getting people involved, and the profits from my wine named Hark Angel go towards these projects. 过去，我的祖母 Aziza 在以色列时常为家人酿造天然葡萄酒。现在，我所经营的 Harkham 已成为澳大拉西亚地区唯一获得 kosher ( 符合犹大饮食戒律 ) 认证的酒庄，酿酒的每一个步骤均有「拉比」检查监管。我们的酒纯天然酿造，几乎没有任何人为介入的痕迹。我相信葡萄酒是上帝赐与人类的礼物，水果取之于大地，放入木桶后开始活动，为自己发声。水果是有生命的，可以提升人类的心灵。三年半前一场严重的摩托车意外让我几乎失去了一条腿，当时让我害怕的并非死亡，而是我的人生本可以做更多更好的事情。因此，我决定开始自己的慈善事业，为世界各地的弱势儿童建造学校。我一步步招揽有志之士加入，以销售自创酒牌 Hark Angel 的利润作为慈善计划的营运资金。

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10 Top Wines to Try

 Small Forest Verdelho 2016 Clean, refreshing, aromatic white 纯净、清新、气味芳香的白酒

 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2006 Award-winning red with a delightful floral quality 带怡人花香的红酒，曾获大奖肯定

 Helm Premium Riesling 2017 Steely minerality and fruity lime flavors 强烈矿物质风味及莱姆果香

 Andrew Thomas “Braemore” Semillon 2017 Vibrant and fresh with lemongrass accents 鲜活、爽口，带柠檬草韵味

The Evangelist

Mike Bennie, acclaimed wine writer, co-founder and co-director of the artisan and sustainability-focused

KIMBERLEY LOW/WINE AUSTRALIA (2), DEAN SEWELL (MIKE BENNIE )

Rootstock Sydney food and wine festival

Sydney has a very free and open way of doing things, and natural wine has exploded through the city. Now in its fifth year, Rootstock Sydney is a notfor-profit festival which brings natural winemakers, farmers, and chefs together for a celebration of sustainability. The festival features dynamic cooking events, master classes and talks, food and wine stalls, a bottle shop, and a large selection of producers offering their wines to taste. The exhibitors are personally invited, and everyone working here is a volunteer. All money raised goes to aboriginal farming communities. We audit the wines at Rootstock very carefully – all must be from organic or biodynamic farming practices and produced with zero additions, except the smallest amount of sulfur. There is a big spread in terms of products, from classic fine wines right through to stuff that is being poured out of buckets. Natural wine is not a homogenized wine beverage – it comes from interesting people who are concerned about how they farm. I like to consume wine that is the closest thing possible to what is on the vine. It has verity, truth, and personality, which I can’t get from wine that is consistently shaped into a style.

悉尼人做事一向自由奔放，天然葡萄酒近年也蔚为一股风潮。非营利的「Rootstock 悉尼美食葡萄酒节」已然迈入第五年，邀集天然葡萄酒酿造人、小农及厨师一起宣扬永续发展的重要性。期间活动非常丰富，包括活力十足的现场厨艺秀、大师班及演讲、

 Mount Majura “Dry Spur” 2015 Classy, elegant tempranillo red with beautiful savory tannins 别致典雅的添帕尼优红酒，单宁美味顺口

 Collector “Shoreline Rosé” 2017 Delicious, refreshing rosé made from sangiovese and mammolo grapes 桑娇维塞及玛墨兰混酿玫瑰酒，美味清新

 Gembrook Hill Pinot Noir 2015 Violet-scented floral palate with fine berry notes 紫罗兰花香味带细致莓果韵味

 Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard “River Blend” Vintage 2017 Unfiltered blend of whole-bunchfermented gewurztraminer and verdelho; delicate rose-petal-scented feminine wine, with lychee notes

美食美酒摊位、一间酒品专卖店及各

整串发酵格乌兹塔明那及华帝露未过滤

大酿酒厂的信心之作展示，选择众多。

混酿，雅致女性葡萄酒，玫瑰花瓣香气

参展者均由主办单位亲自邀请，工作

带荔枝韵味

人员也都是自愿参加，筹募到的经费

物动力农业制作，除最低量硫之外无

 Harkham Wines “Aziza’s Shiraz” 2014 Preservative- and fining-agent-free, hand-harvested shiraz with delicious dried-fruit and spice flavors

任何添加物。参展酒类相当多元，从

不含防腐剂及澄清剂，手摘切拉子葡萄

经典佳酿到刚从木桶倒出来的酒，应

酿制，带美味水果干及香料气息

则作为资助原住民农业社群之用。葡萄酒要在 Rootstock 展示，均需经过严格审查，酒品需以有机或生

有尽有。

式、风趣小农们的心血结晶。我喜欢

 De Bortoli Section A5 Chardonnay 2016 Bright kiwi-fruit notes, good acidity and minerality

喝最贴近葡萄藤原始风味的葡萄酒，

明亮奇异果风味，酸度及矿物质味恰到好处

天然葡萄酒并非同质化、没有特色的酒，而是一群不时思考栽种方

可靠、货真价实又有个性，有别于不断刻意型塑成某种风格的葡萄酒。 ODE TO WINTER | TK |

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WINE MASTER

非凡嗅觉

a nose for greatness Mamie Chen learns how an expert’s remarkable sensory endowment has helped make Ron Zacapa a global phenomenon.

“VANILLA, CINNAMON, CLOVES, orange,

lemon,” rattled off Lorena Vásquez, nosing the hot grog and confidently listing the ingredients as if reading from a cookbook. It was at the 2013 China launch of Zacapa rum that Vásquez, Ron Zacapa’s Master Blender, stunned Greg Robinson, head chef of Shanghai’s Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet. He thought that Vásquez had misidentified the lemon, until he doublechecked the recipe and admitted, “She’s the real deal.” Vásquez’s one-in-a-million nose has served her well during her thirty-three years at Ron Zapaca. She first joined the quality-control department, but management realized that her olfactory powers were too great an asset to ignore, and she was promoted to master blender within a year. Vásquez immediately set about recreating the flavors of the original family recipe in a much greater production volume. First, she moved the aging facilities from a sea-level tropical climate to Zacapa’s nowfamous “House Above the Clouds” at 7,500 feet. Her experiments in aging barrels at the

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Lorena Vásquez, Master Blender

WINE MASTER

two altitudes showed a dramatic difference. “I can develop flavors that are deeper, more intense, more complex,” says Vásquez. She also improved on the sherrybased solera aging system of fractional blending. Instead of using a single barrel type that is topped off with younger liquids, Vásquez devised a dynamic system in which she ages and blends in consecutive barrels of different types of wood. “Each barrel is like a different paint that I can blend together to achieve various shades and colors.” And rather than artificially imposing a mathematical formula of percentages on a blend, Vásquez assesses the flavor notes that have developed in each individual barrel. In Zacapa 23, the distilled rum is aged three years in ex–American whiskey casks for hints of vanilla, caramel, wood, and brown spices. She blends this with rum from older lots aged for ten to twelve years through the entire dynamic system. Then comes at least a year in re-charred American oak barrels that have held both American whiskey and rum. After blending with older lots, the rum goes through ex–oloroso and ex– Pedro Ximénez barrels for notes of nuts and dried fruits. Between each type of barrel comes further blending with older and older lots. “This encourages the younger rum to begin acting like an older rum,” Vásquez says. The end result is extremely complex in aroma and flavor. Zacapa XO, finished in ex–Cognac barrels, has notes of orange and lemon peel, chocolate, and coffee. Limitada Reserva 2014 was produced by growing a garden of native Guatemalan plants in the aging facilities and allowing the aromatics to penetrate the barrels. For another still-unreleased project, Vásquez tested a theory that enzymes react to music by playing Bach during the entire six-day fermentation period. As undisputed leader in the ultrapremium category, Ron Zacapa has been setting the benchmark in changing perceptions of rum as a luxury brown spirit on par with world-class whiskies and Cognacs. When Zacapa first became part of Diageo’s World Class portfolio, it was available in seventeen markets. Today, it has reached 122 and counting. Lorena Vásquez is conquering the world.

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「香草、肉桂、丁香、柳橙、柠檬。」Lorena Vásquez 嗅着热腾腾的熟料并自信地列出这些材料，仿佛照着烹饪书朗诵般精准。 2013 年在中国的 Zacapa 兰姆酒发表会上，Ron Zacapa 首席调酒师 Lorena 深深震撼了 Paul Pairet 的上海 Ultraviolet 餐厅主厨 Greg Robinson。当时 Greg 以为 Lorena 误放了柠檬到酒中，直到他再次确认配方后，才知道原来她是真正的箇中强手。凭借举世无双的嗅觉，Lorena 在 Ron Zapaca 发光发热三十三年。她原先在品管部门任职，后来部长发现她惊人的嗅觉后，认为她实在是公司不可多得的人才，因此 Lorena 在短短一年内便晋升为首席调酒师。晋升后，Lorena 立刻将原有的配方改良并大量生产。她将酿酒设备从海平面高度的热带气候区移到海拔 7,500 英尺的地方，这就是如今家喻户晓的 Zacapa「云上之屋」。她的这项试验在陈年酒桶中发酵出两种不同气候的奇妙差别。她说：「现在我能创造出更深层、更强烈、更复杂的口味。」她更改进了以雪莉酒为基底的索莱拉局部混和酿酒法。她设计出动态制程，把酒置入不同木头做的酒桶中使其连续发酵、混和，而不是使用单一酒桶种类。她表示：「每一个酒桶都像是不同的颜料，让我能把酒混和的更加多采多姿。」与其刻意讲究混和比例公式，Lorena 偏好自己评估每一桶酒在制程中所逐渐发展出的各种口味。举例来说，Zacapa 23 是把蒸馏兰姆酒放到原本装美式威士忌的木桶中酿造三年，以此增添淡淡香草、焦糖、原木与棕色香料的气息，接着再将其与 10 到 12 年的陈年兰姆酒经由整个动态制程混和，最后再放入原来盛装美式威士忌与兰姆酒的微焦美式橡木桶中，存放至少一年。经过陈年兰姆酒的调和后，再将新兰姆酒接连放到曾装 Oloroso 雪莉酒的木桶与曾装 Pedro Ximénez 酿酒葡萄的木桶中，增添坚果与干果香气。每次的木桶更换，都是在将新酒与老酒不停地做混和。最后成品就能附带层层叠加的复杂香气与口味。 Zacapa XO，在干邑白兰地的木桶中熟成，有着柳橙、柠檬皮、巧克力与咖啡香气。Limitada Reserva 2014 是在陈年酿酒厂中酿制而成的。在酿制的过程中，酿酒厂需种植原生危地马拉植物，让植物散发的芳香渗入酒桶。而另一个未公开的计划中， Lorena 在六天的发酵过程里播放巴哈的音乐，来实验酵素是否真的对音乐有反应。作为超高品质系列酒品的先锋，Ron Zacapa 不停地设立标竿，改变大众对于兰姆酒的认知，让这种棕色酒品能与世界级的威士忌还有甘邑白兰地并驾齐驱。Ron Zacapa 产品在世界调酒大赛初露锋芒时，仅有十七家门市有售。如今，产品已遍布超过 122 家门市，其销售网点数量还在持续节节攀升。 Lorena 正以兰姆酒征服全世界。

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Gaggenau Kitchen Appliances Hong Kong 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港仔黄竹坑香叶道2号One Island South 19楼 q +852 2890 1522

Mama San 5

美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2308

Patisserie

G/F, 210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道210号 q +852 2555 2550

Mon-Wed: 11:00-19:30, Thu-Sat: 11:00-20:00 (Closed on Sundays)

Spiga 5

Kong q +852 2871 0055

Lunch: 12:00-15:00, Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

Lunch: 11:00-15:00

COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva,

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路

Bar

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2398

Daily: 15:00-00:00 A Smart casual

美狮美高梅GM层 Lunch: 11:00-15:00; A Smart casual

Hao Guo 好锅 5

Contemporary Cantonese

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2388

11:00-17:00 (Sat, Sun and public holidays) Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart casual

Coast 涛岸 5

Contemporary Californian

French and Japanese

210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道210号 q +852 2555 2172

Mon-Sat: 19:00-23:00 (Closed on Sundays)

TK | ode to winter

da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2328

Daily: 07:00-23:00 A Smart casual

Regional Chinese & hotpot

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2368

Regional Chinese cuisine:

Chún 淳

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida

Tate

Western grill and teppanyaki

Ground floor mezzanine, MGM

11:00-23:00; Hotpot: 18:00-02:00 A Casual

Janice Wong MGM 5

Artisanal pastry

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

Lunch: 11:00-15:00 (Mon-Fri);

香港中环皇后大道中31号陆海通大厦3楼

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Italian

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Grill 58 盛焰

Bar Patuá 百话廊

3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong

A Smart casual

Lunch: 12:00-14:30, Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Poem Patisserie

23:00 Tea lounge: 11:00-23:00

q +853 8806 2318

香港中环云咸街46号1楼 q +852 2881 8901

Lunch: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-

(Closed Mondays)

Multi-Cuisine

1/F, 46 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong

q +853 8806 2358

Nikkei cuisine

Ground floor mezzanine, MGM

Room 3105, New Tech. Plaza, 34 Tai Yau Street, San Po Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Sichuanese

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida

澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2338

10:00-22:00 A Smart casual

Miàn Duì Miàn 面对面 5

Chinese noodles and dumplings

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2378

24 hours A Casual

PICI CENTRAL

N OW O PEN

GF, No. 24-26 Aberdeen St.,Soho, Hong Kong #PiciCentral : Picihk

www.piratagroup.hk

DESSERT

Chef Janice Wong, of eponymous sweets shop Janice Wong MGM, creates an intricate visual and flavor fantasy called Cassis Plum. A fragile frozen sphere of cassis purée and white chocolate is filled with elderflower yogurt mousse. Surrounding elements include plum liqueur jelly, raspberry crispies, blackcurrant pastilles, yuzu caviar, yuzu rubies, flower petals, and raspberry powder.

DAVID HARTUNG

甜点大师黄慧娴（Janice Wong）把她的代表作黑醋栗梅（Cassis Plum）带到同名甜点店「Janice Wong MGM」，以黑醋栗及白巧克力制成的球状外壳内装满接骨木花优格泡沫，配以梅子利口酒，红莓脆片，黑醋栗软糖，柚子珍珠，花瓣和覆盆子粉上桌，梦幻唯美。

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TK | ode to winter

F O O D

I S

A R T.

R E S P E C T

I T.

In craftsmanship and technology, Wolf stands alone. Its professional performance helps you make the most of every meal.

1-3/f, House of Madison 8 Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Road East, Wanchai Hong Kong. T +852 2239 5000

subzerowolf.com.hk