TK34 Last Dance

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T A S T I N G 34

L A S T

K I T C H E N D A N C E

SINGAPORE

Last Dance

最后的圆舞曲

AUSTRALIA

Symbols and the Senses 符号与感觉

MACAU

51 Winners 最佳汇澳

STARTER

One of ten starter snacks on Restaurant André’s farewell menu, Fish & Chips gets a playful presentation inspired by the British favorite, which is traditionally eaten straight from the paper wrapping. Chiang instead wraps wakasagi fish in narrow strings of potato, deep-fries it, and sprinkles the finished product with tangy vinegar powder for a perfectly balanced hit of acidity.

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DAVID HARTUNG

这道前菜是「Restaurant André」临别宴菜单中的十道餐前小吃之一，摆盘随性有趣， 灵感来自英国的炸鱼薯条。传统炸鱼薯条是以包装纸包裹着直接享用，但江主厨改 用幼细的土豆丝包裹西太公鱼，油炸后撒上美味醋粉，达至酸度的完美平衡。

T A S T I N G 34

K I T C H E N

L A S T

D A N C E

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Lucy Morgan

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Andrea Lo

MANAGING EDITOR

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Inara Sim

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Kate Nicholson

IMAGE EDITOR

Nissa Cornish

TRANSLATION SERVICES

EDITORS

Jane Wong

John Sek

Babel Communications

Zita Wan

ACCOUNTANT

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Terrie Lam

Denise Lo Ann Kuok

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Yan Ni CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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PRINTING Asia One Printing 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

Lauriane Lemaire

DISTRIBUTION

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR

One Logistics

First created by André Chiang in 1997, this dish of tender foie gras jelly continues to thrill diners, who marvel at its light texture and delicious truffle-perfumed taste.

Memory may be vintage, but the elegant bowl in which it is served is entirely modern in design and made with a cutting-edge material from Taiwan, 3D-printed ceramic. The most natural of materials, in contrast, is used for the implement the dish is eaten with, a tiny wooden teaspoon with the word “memory” inside the bowl. 大厨江振诚(André Chiang)在1997年做出了这道鹅肝松露冻，其轻盈的质地和松露 芬芳的香气至今仍令一众饕客为之惊叹。「忆」可说是道老旧的菜式，但盛载它的 容器却是以台湾的前端技术－3D陶艺制成，充满现代感。与高科技相比之下，享用 这道菜的餐具－一个刻着「记忆」的小木勺则使用了最天然的材质。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2018 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

Chef André Chiang shocked the global culinary community when he announced on 11 October 2017 that he would be closing Restaurant André on 14 February 2018. Over its seven-year run, the restaurant had achieved worldwide fame, rising to number two on the list of Asia’s 50 Best.

To cover in depth the finale of such a groundbreaking icon, TK joined Restaurant André for its last week of service and has made it the theme of this issue, Last Dance.

“I don’t know how you’re going to write this,” André had wondered. “There are so many stories, too many ingredients in one pot.” In the end, we decided to tell the story in four parts.

“Getting in Touch,” our Food & Art feature, spotlights pottery pieces André sculpted in 2010, just before he opened Restaurant André and during a period he spent rediscovering his creative direction.

Coming from a family of artists, André has developed approaches to cooking and sculpture that share many parallels. In both mediums, he allows the inherent characteristics of the natural materials he works with to guide the process.

In our interview feature, “The End Is Just the Beginning,” André tells of his decision to close the restaurant and focus his energies on new projects. Viewing cooking as a performing art like dance, he talks of the moment when he walked into the restaurant and realized that his work of art had reached a final state of perfection.

“Feasting on Farewells” showcases the twenty-eight dishes selected for the last menu, each with a story to tell, each holding a significant place in the chef ’s memory and in the history of the restaurant.

And finally, the intimate photo essay “Last Dance” wistfully captures the camaraderie and sentiment of Restaurant André’s farewell performance.

Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 18 Symbols and the Senses • 84 51 Winners • 92 Winning Streak • 98 League of Extraordinary Chefs 102 Excellence Every Day • 110 Tapas in Taipa • 112 Green Sheep • 114 The Gin Win 120 Tastemaker • 124 True to the Fruit • 128 Extra Sensory Perception • 132 Food and Much More 134 L I S T I N G S • 140 D E S S E R T

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CONTENTS

12 The Designing Chef 14 Getting in Touch 28 The End Is Just the Beginning 34 Feasting on Farewells 58 Last Dance ​

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DAVID HARTUNG

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FOOD & ART

名厨跨刀设计

the designing chef André Chiang commemorates his famed restaurant with a custom carpet design.

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SPACE FURNITURE, the Australia-based retailer of high-end contemporary furnishings, was looking to work with talent from outside the traditional design industry as a way to “demonstrate the democracy of design.” So it wasn’t surprising when, last August, they asked chef André Chiang to create a limited-edition Moooi rug. In addition to his mastery of the culinary arts, Chiang, who is also a dedicated potter, is unusually at ease in the design field.

Then in October, the Taiwan-born chef unexpectedly announced that he was closing his renowned Restaurant André in Singapore, relinquishing its two Michelin stars, and returning to his roots in Taiwan. He took the opportunity presented by this life-changing event to reflect on the legacy of his flagship restaurant and make it the theme of his pending carpet design.

Given free rein, Chiang departed from the more abstract patterns that typify Moooi Carpets’ modish floor coverings custom-printed in high-resolution detail. His diary-like rug, two by three meters, instead features photo-realistic depictions of snapshots and clippings spanning the seven-year history of the restaurant. “It’s really amazing,” says Chiang, “how Moooi Carpets’ technology can bring to life my metaphor for memories of Restaurant André.” Space Furniture remarked that Chiang was able to “tap into his exceptional technical and creative skills, essential for a chef of his caliber.”

Two rugs were produced at Moooi Carpets’ facilities in the Netherlands, and one was auctioned at Space Furniture’s Singapore showroom in December, with the proceeds going to charity. 澳洲顶级现代家具零售商「Space Furniture」一直热衷与传统设计业界以 外的各个领域艺术家合作，一展「设计的民主作风」 。因此去年 8 月找上 名厨江振诚合作自然不令人意外，限量版荷兰设计品牌 Moooi 地毯正是 双方共同研发的成果。台湾出身的江主厨才华洋溢，除了炉火纯青的厨艺 外，也投入大量时间创作陶艺，跨足设计领域可说毫不费功夫。 同年 10 月，主厨出人意料地宣布旗下的新加坡餐厅「Restaurant

André」即将歇业，同时归还米其林二星评价，之后则会回到台湾。他把 握这个转捩点的机会，以自己的旗舰餐厅精神作为设计的主轴。

IMAGE COURTESY SPACE FURNITURE

Moooi 地毯一向以客制印刷、高解析细节的时髦风格闻名，但主厨 摆脱品牌典型的抽象几何图腾。他所设计的地毯大小 2 米 X 3 米，有如 日记一般，乘载的是餐厅七年以来的快照及简报，呈现照片般的写实情 景。他开心表示 ： 「Moooi 地毯的制作技术真的很不可思议，捕捉到我对 」 「Space 『Restaurant André』记忆的各式隐喻，让它们跃然地毯之上。

Furniture」则赞叹主厨能「发挥身为顶级大厨的卓绝技术及创意发想」。 成 品 以 M​oooi 在 荷 兰 的 地 毯 制 造 设 备 制 成， 并 于 12 月 在「Space

Furniture」新加坡展示中心拍卖，所得款项作慈善用途。 last dance

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钻研「纯粹」

GETTING IN

period when I was rediscovering who I am. I’d ANDRÉ CHIANG PRESENTS a perfect white left France, and I needed to empty myself of onion, its delicately detailed form highlighted everything. I wanted to be free of the shadow by the bright sun streaming through upstairs of the chefs I’d worked for and to find out windows at Restaurant André. The bulb, cool who André is as a chef. I needed to reconnect to the touch, has a slightly powwith produce, to truly understand dery quality that reveals that this BY cooking.” particular specimen did not grow LUCY MORGAN Chiang explains that the art in the earth but is fashioned from of molding clay had been his first earth itself. A mirepoix-medley PHOTOGRAPHY BY creative love.

“Everyone in my of clay carrots, celery, and onions DAVID HARTUNG family is an artist, and we all like sits in a glass cabinet flanked different things.

I started to sculpt

by Michelin guides and weighty with clay as a child – I wanted to be a potter. cookbooks. Two pristine pottery turnips rest in But my older brother chose to be an actor elegant stands that protect their fragile roots. and my older sister a designer, which meant “I made these in 2010, before Restaurant there was no one to take over my mum’s André opened,” says Chiang of his collecbusiness – she was a chef. So at age thirteen tion of fired-clay vegetables. “That was the I started to cook and stopped working with clay.” During his years as a chef in France, Chiang had little opportunity to pursue

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pottery. But when he decided to move back to Asia, he stopped over in the Seychelles to help a friend set up a new resort and used this time to clear his mind, return to his early craft, and focus on his culinary future.

“Cuisine is like fashion,” he notes of his decision to escape outside influences, “because everything you see and hear subconsciously affects your choices. I wanted to go to a place disconnected from all that, so I went away for nearly two years and just looked at ingredients.” Chiang began sculpting the objects he was most familiar with

FEATURE

TOUCH

Through the tactile medium of clay, a world-famous chef reconnects with vegetables.

在「Restaurant André」内，江振诚主厨呈上

江主厨解释，其实陶艺才是他创作领域

沉淀心灵，重拾陶土艺术并思考他未来的厨 师之路。

一颗完美无瑕的白色洋葱，而透过楼上窗台

的初恋。他说 ： 「家中所有成员都是艺术家，

洒进室内的灿烂阳光，更突显洋葱精细入微

大家往不同领域发展。我从小就喜欢雕塑陶

的纹理。店内冷光灯泡透射出稍带颗粒的光

土，梦想成为一名陶艺师，而我哥哥选择当

「美食文化就像流行文化一样，因为你的所见

线，让人察觉到这颗白色蔬菜不是从土里长

演员，姊姊则往设计方面钻研。这代表没人

所闻都将产生潜移默化的影响，动摇你的选

出来，而是以土作为原料做出来的。胡萝卜、

能继承我妈妈的事业，也就是选择以厨师为

择。 我想待在一个与世隔绝的地方，离群索

芹菜和洋葱是三种用作烹煮蔬菜高汤的主要

职业。于是从 13 岁开始，我便中止研习陶土，

居，用将近两年的时间潜心观察食材。 」自此，

材料，现以陶土的型态安静地躺在玻璃柜中，

往厨师之路迈进。 」在法国担任厨师的那几年，

江主厨开始雕塑最熟悉的事物－蔬菜，全凭

被米其林指南与厚实的烹饪书围绕着。两颗

江主厨很少有机会追求他的兴趣。在决定搬

印象来创作。他表示 ： 「这考验我对于每种食

古朴的陶土芜菁则置放在旁边高雅的脚架上，

回亚洲之后，他在塞舌尔停留了一阵子，帮

材的了解程度。洋葱的根长什么样子？鲭鱼

以保护易碎的块根部分。

朋友打理新度假村，同时他也利用这段时间

的尾巴是什么纹路？芹菜的茎又该有多长？

谈及他的陶土蔬菜收藏品，江主厨表示： 「早在 2010 年，那时候餐厅还没开张，我就 做出这些作品了。那时我正在进行自我的重 新探索。在法国回来后，我想要把自己归零，

对于选择远离外界影响的原因，他解释：

一旦开始雕刻，就能体会到即​​使 是每天触摸 的食材，你对它的了解却寥寥无几。 」 在具物理性的创作过程中，江主厨对常 见蔬菜的模样产生更深刻的理解。江主厨多

一切从头开始。 我曾跟随众多主厨工作，但 我不想一直待在他们的影子之下，我希望能 找到当厨师真正存在的意义。我需要重新与 食材建立连结，需要真正了解烹饪这回事。 」 last dance

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SCULPTURE

年在法国与很多名厨合作过，学会五花八门 的烹饪技术，不过这些技巧同时成为他反璞 归真的绊脚石。他表示 ： 「就如同有个画家， 精通各种绘画技巧与型态刻划，但有时也想 回到原点，专注于雕琢颜色，以入门时期的

江主厨不使用陶土转盘或是任何复杂的

心态重新学习。所以我必须摒弃所有学过的

技巧。每创作一项作品，就会坐上三、四个

华丽技术，一心一意琢磨食材本质。 」

小时。他表示 ： 「我不能停，我要在灵感存在 的时候完成我的作品。与作品之间的连结必

江主厨从制作陶土仿制品的过程中得到 启发，用更创新的思考角度看待现实事物。

陶艺与烹饪有许多共同点。这两种工作都需

须要一气呵成，隔天再来完成的话，感觉就

他说 ： 「我开始以不同的眼光看待蔬菜，像是

要与大自然打交道，所以我们必须尊重、顺

不同了。 」他把每件雕塑完成的作品直接送进

以去橘子皮的方式来削胡萝卜，进而发现萝

应大自然，让材料的本质来当你的指路明灯。 」

烤炉，不上任何的烤漆，以展现各种陶土的

卜心。在雕塑芦笋时，心中也会自问『我会

江主厨发现，各式各样的陶土，性质大不相

天然色彩。

怎样料理它？』其实创新并不需要花俏的食

同，有些很柔软，有些充满弹性，有的摸起

许多员工按照江主厨的指示，凭借印象

材，只要足够了解身边熟悉的蔬菜，我们都

来干干沙沙的。他说道 ： 「首先闭上眼睛，在

亲手雕塑陶土蔬菜时，皆对做出的成品感到

可以发现新的呈现方式。 」

心里想像某种蔬菜的体积、形状与重量。一

非常讶异。他们以为自己会记得那些每天都

江主厨不仅雕塑全凭印象，连当天烹饪

旦开始制作过程，许多疑问便会涌上心头，比

在亲自处理的食材的所有细节，但没想到居

的菜式也是在钻研陶土的过程中决定的。他

如『这个长度对不对？』等等。其实要做的就

然什么都想不起来。江主厨说 ： 「下次他们看

对待食材就如同对待陶土一般，总是让材料

是保持眼睛闭着，让手去感受，便能得到真

到食材时，就会再三观察，而这正是这项活

的特性全然显现在成品中。他表示 ： 「我发现

正的答案。 」

动最主要的目的。 」

“ It ’s made me look at vegetables in a different way. Now I might cut a carrot the way I peel an orange and discover its heart. As I sculpt asparagus, I ask, ‘How will André cook this?’”

– vegetables – working entirely from memory.

“This was a discipline to identify how well I understood produce. What shape is the root of an onion or the tail of a mackerel? How long is a stalk of celery? Once you do this, you realize you know so little about the objects you touch and work with every day.”

The process helped him rediscover common vegetables in a very physical way.

Over a decade working with some of the best chefs in France had given Chiang wideranging experience in culinary techniques, which, paradoxically, he wanted to forget in order to redefine his own approach. “It’s like being an artist who can paint anything and use all sorts of techniques but who sometimes just wants to go back and focus on color in order to relearn. I had to stop thinking about all the fancy things I’d mastered and simply study produce.”

Making pottery replicas inspired Chiang to be more innovative with the real things.

“It’s made me look at vegetables in a different way. Now I might cut a carrot the way

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I peel an orange and discover its heart. As I sculpt asparagus, I ask, ‘How will André cook this?’ We don’t need to go in search of gimmicky ingredients to innovate. If we delve deeply into the vegetables we know, we discover new ways of serving them.”

Not only does Chiang sculpt from memory, he doesn’t decide what he’s going to make until he’s spent time manipulating the clay. He lets its natural characteristics dictate the result, a rule he likewise applies to his culinary explorations. “I find a lot of similarities between pottery and cooking – you’re working with nature and you need to learn how to respect it and follow what nature tells you, you need to follow the lines of the material.” Various clays, he finds, have their own distinctive qualities, some soft, some stretchy, some dry and sandy. “First you close your eyes and try to imagine the shape and size and weight of the vegetable.

Once you start doing this, you question yourself and begin doubting – is it this long?

Simply shutting your eyes and holding the clay in your hands lets you work it out.”

Chiang uses no potter’s wheel or complicated techniques. He makes each piece

in one sitting of around three or four hours.

“I can’t stop, I have to finish it before the feeling goes. You’ve got that creative connection, and if you come back tomorrow, you’ll have lost it.” Once a piece is completed, he fires it without glaze to reveal the subtle natural colors in the various clays.

When the chef asked his staff to follow his lead and try their hands at molding clay vegetables entirely from memory, most were quite surprised by the results. They found that they didn’t recall the details of the commonest of kitchen staples as well as they thought they would. “The next time they saw the real produce,” says Chiang, “they examined it twice – and that was the whole point of the exercise.”

“我开始以不同的眼光看待蔬菜，像是以去橘子皮的方式来削胡萝卜， 进而发现萝卜心。在雕塑芦笋时，心中也会自问『我会怎样料理它？』”

符号与感觉

symbols and the senses Great artists create lasting works through heightened powers of perception.

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2016 LEASK SHIRAZ ARTIST: XAVIER CASALTA

WINE ART

WHILE OTHERS MAY SEE THE HUMAN SENSES as isolated and independent, artists find in them opportunities for creating connections. Sight, sound, taste, touch – all can be intimately related.

The Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky claimed to hear far more than musical notes in Wagner’s opera

Lohengrin . The music, he said, is filled with colors, lines, and shapes: “In my mind, I hear all the colors, they fill my eyes. Wagner painted music.”

The composer Debussy was influenced by the woodblock prints of Japanese ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai and said that he drew more inspiration from Hokusai’s paintings of the sea than from the sea itself.

Reflections on The Great Wave off Kanagawa led to Debussy’s creation of the impressionist milestone La Mer , an evocative depiction of the undersea world in a series of three sketches that depart from the traditional symphonic form.

Winemakers, who gracefully straddle the disparate worlds of agriculture and art, have long shared a healthy symbiosis and sense of mutual appreciation with artists. In 1945, Mouton Rothschild famously began commissioning artists to create a label for each new vintage, with such contributors as Salvador Dalí in 1958, Pablo Picasso in 1973, and the Chinese artist Xu Lei in the auspicious year of 2008.

Hither & Yon Winery of McLaren Vale in South Australia has taken a different approach, centering its label designs around the familiar ampersand symbol. For each of their wines, an artist was commissioned to create an ampersand artwork that visually represents the wine’s taste, translating abstract aromas and flavors into vivid colors and intriguing shapes.

New World wines are celebrated for their fresh and innovative approach, and their winemakers are free of many of the constraints of Old World traditions. It’s not surprising, then, that they’ve also found creative new ways to express the character and soul of their wines in the design of their labels.

我们或会觉得人类感官系统的反应是各不相扰的，但艺术家却能从中发现机遇，让视觉、听觉、味觉与触觉之间 产生紧密的联系。 俄罗斯画家康定斯基称他不止在瓦格纳歌剧《罗恩格林》中听到音乐，在音乐间，充满了颜色、线条与形状。 他说 ： 「在我脑海中，我『听』到所有的颜色，它们浮现在我眼前。瓦格纳画出了音乐。 」 作曲家德彪西深受日本浮世绘版画家葛饰北斋的影响，他说比起真正的大海，他能从葛饰北斋的画作中得到 更多的灵感。 《神奈川冲浪里》让德彪西创作了《大海》 ，一部以三个乐章展现深海世界、打破传统风格的音乐画卷， 成为了印象派音乐的里程碑。 COURTESY HITHER & YON (2)

酿酒师优雅地跨越农业和艺术两个世界，长久以来，他们既是酿酒师，又是艺术家。1945 年，法国波尔多木 桐酒庄开始邀请艺术家为不同年份的酒设计酒标，1958 年为萨尔瓦多达利所作，1973 年为毕加索所作，还有中国 艺术家徐累为 2008 吉祥年所创作的酒标。 来自南澳洲麦克拉伦谷的漫山酒庄，在酒标艺术表现形式上却另辟蹊径。酒标以「＆」符号为中心展开设计， 艺术家根据每一款葡萄酒传达出的不同感受，将抽象的香气和风味转化为生动的色彩与华丽的图形。 新世界的葡萄酒因其新颖和创新的方法而闻名，他们的酿酒师不受旧世界悠久历史的牵绊。因此他们常常突 破传统，以酒标设计为载体，用一种新风格吐露葡萄酒中的秘密，诉说内在的灵魂。

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Chris Edser

Chris Edser 是 位 澳 洲 艺 术 家， 他 的作品都具有浓厚的当地特色。葡 萄园周围的植被对葡萄的风味有很 大 的 影 响， 而 漫 山 酒 庄 的 赤 霞 珠

(Cabernet Sauvignon) 葡萄田周围栽 Chris Edser is an Australian artist whose work is known for its abundance of native themes and images, including the eucalyptus tree, one of Australia’s most famous species. It is widely known that the vegetation growing around a vineyard has a great influence on the taste of the grapes. And because Hither & Yon’s cabernet sauvignon vineyard is surrounded by a great many eucalyptus trees, it’s no surprise to find that this wine is rich with their fragrance.

The label brings to our minds the unique scent of eucalyptus so vividly that we almost feel the rich red soil and breathe in the fresh mintiness. The tree-trunk texture reflects the bold and robust character of Hither & Yon’s 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon.

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种了很多澳洲特有的桉树，所以这 款酒带有浓郁的桉树芬芳。 我们不光能从酒标设计中感受 到桉树独特的香气，还能联想到红 色土壤的质感，以及闻到薄荷的气 息。树干的纹理就是酒体的呈现 ： 奔放且直接。

COURTESY HITHER & YON (2)

WINE ART

2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 赤霞珠

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2015 Aglianico 艾格尼科

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WINE ART

Alexandra Zutto Alexandra Zutto is a Russian artist whose design radiates a childish dreamlike innocence. The image’s sweet colorations and luscious forms seem almost edible. In this label for Hither & Yon’s 2015 Aglianico, we experience small pockets that convey the intensity of various flavors. Stones of different sizes abound, representing the warmth of the sun and the earthy taste of minerals.

Alexandra Zutto 来自俄罗斯，她的设计风 格梦幻且充满童真，让人联想起水果软糖 的酸甜弹性。一看到她这款为酒庄的艾格 尼科 (Aglianico) 葡萄酒设计的酒标，嘴巴 里彷佛已经尝到不同风味的甜美。这一片 葡萄藤下铺满了大大小小的石头，每一块

COURTESY HITHER & YON (2)

都有着太阳和矿物质的气息。

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Eiko Ojala

WINE ART

2017 Grenache Mataro

COURTESY HITHER & YON (2)

歌海娜慕合怀特混酿

Eiko Ojala is a paper-cutting artist from Estonia. His work is remarkable not only for its lifelike images, such as that of the woman on the left, but also for its layering and depth that add fullness and three-dimensionality.

CaoXueQing has described women as “like water,” a characterization that accurately captures the nature of the grenache grape and a quality that is beautifully represented in the languid flow and softness of Eiko’s design.

The complexity and structure of the 2017 Grenache Mataro, the result of the addition of mataro grapes, is conveyed by the three-dimensionality of Eiko’s layered design. The label’s colors are also clues to what the wine holds in store. Pink points to the taste of red berries, introducing a sliver of acidity, and the deeper colors of blueberries and mulberries point to the sweetness that fills the palate. The transformative taste of this wine fascinates, and, for those who have yet to enjoy it, merely contemplating the label will unlock the experience that awaits.

Eiko Ojala 是位来自爱沙尼亚的剪纸艺术家。 虽说纸张有时锋锐得会划伤手指，但是 Eiko 却能通过剪纸，将女性的柔美表现得淋漓尽 致。剪纸层层叠叠，更富有张力与延伸力。 曹雪芹在作品中形容「女人是水做的骨 肉」 ，这句话也能准确描述歌海娜 (Grenache) 这 一 葡 萄 品 种 的 特 性。Eiko 为 此 设 计 的 酒 标整体感观自由流动，充满柔情。慕合怀特

(Mataro) 在酒体中增加的骨架感与层次感， 充分体现在纸张叠加的效果中。酒标上的粉 红色像是红色莓类的风味，带有一丝酸度 ； 深色莓类，例如蓝莓、桑葚的甜美则充盈口腔。 这款酒的变幻让人着迷，而酒标则让人在品 尝前便能稍微领略到这款佳酿的风韵。

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2017 Petit Blanc

2017 Rosé

2017 Tempranillo

2017 Cabernet Sauvignon

2017 Grenache Mataro

小白白

桃红

丹魄

赤霞珠

歌海娜慕合怀特混酿

Agata Polasik, Poland

Amanda Brown, ​ United States

My Name is Wendy, France

Chris Edser, Australia

Eiko Ojala, Estonia

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WINE ART

2016 Shiraz

2013 Tannat

2015 Aglianico

2017 Nero D’Avola

西拉

塔那

艾格尼科

黑达沃拉

Anthony James, UK

Ekta, Sweden

Alexandra Zutto, Russia

Lesha Galkin, Russia

2014 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 西拉赤霞珠混酿 Tiana Vasiljev, Australia

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INTERVIEW

In the early hours of October 11, 2017, chef André Chiang sent out a press release to announce that he would be closing Restaurant André on February 14, 2018. He stated that he wanted to return the two Michelin stars awarded to the restaurant, and he requested that RAW, his iconic restaurant in Taiwan where he plans to rebase himself, should not feature in the upcoming Michelin Guide for Taiwan. § Lucy Morgan sat down with Chiang to talk about the reasons behind this shock decision and to find out his plans for the future. § 2017年10月11日一早，名厨江振诚 (André Chiang) 发出新闻稿，宣布经营多年的 「Restaurant André」将于2018年2月14日正式歇业，同时归还餐厅所获的米其林二星评等。 他表示将重回台湾，以餐厅「RAW」为重心，也请即将发布的台湾米其林指南不要将他标志 性的餐厅加入推荐名单。 § TK 资深编辑 Lucy Morgan 与江振诚进行深度访谈，畅谈此一重 大决定背后的原因，以及主厨未来的计划。

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THE BEGINNING

BY LUCY MORGAN

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INTERVIEW

Even a perfectionist will have a moment when they feel something is completed.

Can you tell me about your decision to close Restaurant André and the thought process behind it?

It’s a long story – there wasn’t just one thing that triggered me. I’ve been waiting for that moment when everything just falls into place.

At different periods of life, we need to prioritize and then constantly adjust our priorities. Every ten years I make a big decision: stop, assess, what should I do? I passed my thirtieth birthday and realized I wanted to come back to Asia. I settled in Singapore for ten years, and now I want to move on and do something new.

The second reason is that I’m more of an emotional person than other chefs. I grew up in a family of artists. When you’re creating a piece of art, whether it takes a month or a year or longer, there will be a time when the piece is finished, you sign your name on the corner, and you have to move on to another piece.

How do you know when that is?

You’ll know when the day comes. And when you sign your name on the piece, then you have completed it. An artist never has just one art piece in their life. It took me ten years to complete Restaurant André. I

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can take another ten years to create something better.

Any ideas what that might be?

There are many things I want to do, so I guess that is another trigger.

Also, a lot of people relate the decision [to close the restaurant] to The World’s 50 Best or Michelin. It’s interesting, because every day, every minute, we’re looking for that missing 1 percent of perfection. Since the day we opened Restaurant André, I’ve been thinking, “Can we do better?” You keep pushing yourself and still can’t find that 1 percent. I’m sure that within five years we could be in the top ten of the world or hold three stars. But right now, I realize this is not my priority. What is that 1 percent? It’s not the extra star. It’s that moment when you feel it is completed.

Can you describe how that feels? Is it a physical feeling, like love or hunger?

No. It’s the moment that you walk into the restaurant and you look at everybody working. You’re always adjusting, and making sure that everything is symmetrical and perfect, but then there’s the one day that you walk in and think, “This is what I want, because everything is perfect.” That’s the feeling of being completed.

It’s just like every piece of pottery or sculpture I make. There’s that day when you put the final touch and you think, “That is done.” And that was the feeling I had. I told my wife, “It’s done. I found that 1 percent that was missing, the last piece of the puzzle.

It’s not being number one in the world, it’s not three Michelin stars.”

So, the 1 percent is inside you?

Yes! A lot of very close friends of mine who know my background, that I come from a family of artists, they understand. They were shocked, but they totally understand.

They texted me and said, “Oh my God, this is so André.”

Even a perfectionist will have a moment when they feel something is completed.

Did you tell anyone beforehand?

No. It just happened. I called my staff and we went up to the third floor and I told them we would be closing on this day. Twenty minutes later we drafted the announcement.

Were there any other factors behind your decision?

It’s a collective timing where everything gradually fell into place.

One day I was in Australia doing a signing

即使是完美主义者，也有感觉一切完美落幕的一刻。

能否分享「Restaurant André」歇业背后 的原因及你的心路历程呢？ 说来话长，背后的原因很多。我只是 在等待一切都水到渠成的一刻。 人生不同阶段中的优先顺序有所不同， 一路上需不断调整。每 10 年我会做一个重 大决定 ：停下脚步、审慎评估下一步该做 什么？ 30 岁生日时，我觉得是时候回亚洲 了，于是落脚新加坡，至今也有 10 年了。 接下来我会继续前行，寻找新的发展。而 第二个理由，可以说是我比其他厨师要感 性吧。我的家庭成员都是艺术家。创作一 件艺术品需要花费更长的时间。等到作品 完成的那一天，在作品上找个角落签个名， 就该埋首创作下一个作品了。 怎么知道是时候了？ 当那一天到来了，你便会知道。当你 为作品署名后，就表示创作正式完成。这 么多艺术家，会有人终其一生只做一件作 品吗？没有的，我也不会。我在「Restaurant André」倾注了 10 年心血，之后也可以再 花上 10 年时间打造更好的作品。 可否透露接下来的计划呢？ 我还有很多事想做，这也是我下此决 定的诱因之一。同时，很多人认为歇业的 决定与餐厅获选「全球 50 最佳餐厅」或 米其林评鉴有关。说来有趣，我们无时无 刻追求完美，现在距离完美还有最后 1%

的 差 距。「Restaurant André」 开 业 以 来， 我每天自问「如何做得更好」，不断鞭策 自己还是找不到那 1% 的差距所在。我知 道五年之内，餐厅定可更上一层楼，成为 全球十大或摘下米其林三星荣耀，但那并 非现阶段的首要目标。剩下的 1% 是什么 呢？不是多一颗星星，而是自觉完成的那 一刻。

那是怎样的感觉？是像爱情或饥饿那样的 真实感受吗？ 不是，比较像是走进餐厅，看到大家 正忙着眼前工作的感觉。我总是不断调整， 直到某一天踏进餐厅时，我惊觉 ： 「眼前的 一切就是我想要的，所有事物都无可挑剔。」 这就是一切完美落幕的真实感受。 好比我创作的每件陶艺或雕塑品一样， 某一天最终微调后心想 ： 「大功告成了」， 正是这种感觉。我记得我跟太太说 ： 「完成 了，我找到最后的 1%，最后的一块拼图到 手了。不是要当世界第一，也不是要拿米 其林三星。」 可以说那 1% 其实藏在你心里吗？ 没错！我是艺术家庭出身，很多了解 我成长背景的好朋友们就明白我的决定。收 到消息后感到震惊，却也完全理解。他们 传讯息给我说 ： 「天啊，这就是你的作风！」 即使是完美主义者，也有感觉一切完美落 幕的一刻。

是否事先跟任何人透露吗？ 没有，一切就这么发生了。我把员工 叫到三楼，告诉他们餐厅只营业到 2 月 14 日。20 分钟之后，我们就拟好新闻通稿了。 此一决定还包含其他因素吗？ 选这个时间点刚好，一切都水到渠成。 有天我在澳洲办签书会，有个 12 岁的小男 孩跑来跟我说 ： 「我想跟你一样成为『50 最佳』及米其林星级大厨。」我心想一个 12 岁的小孩不该满脑子想着那些事，而是 应该单纯当个开心的厨师就好。但想想自 己同样年纪时也只一心搜集米其林指南， 并深深着迷不已。就在那个当下，我在小 男孩身上看到了自己。 您现在是个开心的厨师吗？ 对！我是个开心的厨师！ 现在感觉如何？有什么改变吗？ 没有任何改变。我现在觉得相当平静， 就像刚跑完马拉松，或完成一个耗时 10 年 的大作品一样。此刻就该只是静静坐着， 静观一切，享受一切。一直以来我全力以 赴，不断调整，没有一天松懈，但从新闻 稿发布后到现在，或到正式歇业之前，我 只想好好享受「Restaurant André」的一切。 书籍或绘画可不断流传，相比之下，烹调 艺术稍纵即逝，做好的菜仅存于入口的那 last dance

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INTERVIEW

If André stays at Restaurant André for another five, ten, twenty years, André will just be helping André. I hope that in the next five or ten years there will be five, ten, or twenty more Andrés. session for my book and there was a little boy of twelve who came and he said, “I want to be a ‘50 Best’ chef, I want to be a Michelin chef like you.” That was in a twelve-year-old kid’s head and I felt it shouldn’t be. It shouldn’t be about accolades you get, you should just want to be a happy chef. But I was the same at that age – I collected Michelin guides, I was obsessed with them. This was the moment that I saw myself in that little boy.

And are you a happy chef now?

I am a happy chef!

How do you feel now? Have things changed?

Nothing changed. Now I feel extremely peaceful. It’s like you just finished a marathon or a huge art piece that took ten years.

Now is the moment just to sit there and look at it and just enjoy it. You’ve been working on it, fine-tuning it every day. After that announcement until now and until the day we finish, I’m just enjoying the restaurant.

The thing about culinary art is that, as opposed to something enduring like a book or a painting, when you cook something, it exists for a moment in the mouth and then in the memory. You’re creating this incredibly transient piece of art. Once you close this restaurant and tear the insides out and restructure it, how will you enjoy it then? Where will it exist? In your heart? In your memory?

I’m OK with that –it’s a performance, like a dance.

Yet I feel like I’m looking at a beautiful sandcastle, and a wave is going to come and wash it away and then I’ll just be looking at sand. How will I remember this?

The difference is that if you look at all the great artists or painters, they create a milestone for that period. If you talk about the ’60s, ’70s, ’90s, you think about what

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kind of music, fashion, or flavor represents that period. And it’s not just what these artists created, but who they inspired. I’m sure the young generations in this part of the world will be inspired by this style of cuisine if they’ve been to the restaurant.

Because nowadays when you look at a dish, you don’t say, “That’s very French, that’s very Italian.” You say, “That’s very ‘Noma,’ that’s very ‘Thomas Keller.’” And where did that come from? That’s the influence of the chef on the dish.

So, people in the future will say, “That’s very André”?

I hope so. I also hope that Octaphilosophy inspires a lot of people to find their cooking DNA. What are the most important words for your creation and the way you work? That will help you find your own identity.

What would you like to do next?

While I was in Australia, a Chinese culinary student on a working holiday came to see me. He was holding a Chinese version of Octaphilosophy, and he said, “Chef, this book is very important to me.”

There aren’t that many Chinese-translated cookbooks and there are so many Chinese young chefs that want to learn, but they don’t have references, and I realized there are so many things I want to do for this younger generation, a workshop or maybe in the future a school. All these things come together and make me say, “That’s it.

It’s time.”

It’s a big decision but it’s not a difficult one – it’s clear. If André stays at Restaurant André for another five, ten, twenty years, André will just be helping André. I hope that in the next five or ten years there will be five, ten, or twenty more Andrés.

I want to go back to my roots. For the past thirty years, I never physically lived in Taiwan. I want to know more about my own culture. The other day I was talking to my wife and I said Europe and France are like

my adoptive parents. I grew up with them, they treated me well, they love me, and I have been successful. But I want to know my “biological parent,” Taiwan. I want to get closer. We may discover we have little in common, but I feel like I need to do this, I need to know.

I will also take good care of all our restaurants in the Restaurant André group and three new upcoming projects set to open by the end of 2018, as well as this space.

What will happen to this space?

The restaurant will undergo renovations and then reopen toward the end of 2018.

We’ll build a new concept in this building. At the moment, it’s confidential, but I can say it is fine dining and in a new category that we don’t have in Singapore at the moment.

What are the highlights of Restaurant André for you?

As a Chinese cooking French cuisine, I hope I’ve given encouragement to all the young Chinese chefs. Restaurant André is not about cooking traditional French cuisine – none of these dishes ever existed in French culinary history. They represent the future of French cuisine.

We set so many great examples – the first Chinese chef in The World’s 50 Best, first restaurant in Singapore to feature really intense biodynamic wine on our lists – since day one. People were shocked. But it’s simple – if you buy organic produce rather than factory-farmed, then why buy factory wines produced with chemicals? The way we pick a bottle of wine is the same as for a carrot. Who grows it? How is it raised? Does it fit with my philosophy?

We’ve set a good example for Asia, and that’s important. In the last ten years, we did so much for Restaurant André, for myself, and for Singapore. Singapore had never really had a home-grown iconic restaurant of its own. We have achieved a lot, we have put Singapore on the world food map.

如果André继续留在「Restaurant André」5年、10年甚至20年，André能帮到的就只有

André自己。我希望是在接下来的5到10年，能出现5个、10个甚至20个André。 做这个重大决定对我而言其实并不挣 扎。如果 André 继续留在「Restaurant André」5 年、10 年甚至 20 年，André 能帮到 的就只有 André 自己。我希望在接下来的 5 到 10 年，能出现 5 个、10 个甚至 20 个 André。过去 30 年我都不在台湾，因此我 想回台湾进一步探索自身的文化。有天我 和太太聊天，提到欧洲及法国像是我的养 父母，陪我长大，视我如己出，爱我，我 也成功开创厨师生涯。但现在我想了解我 的「亲生父母」，拉近和台湾的距离。或 许最终会发现彼此没有太多相似之处，但 仍觉得这是我此刻该做的事，我想知道更 多。 我也会把「Restaurant André」旗下的每 间餐厅顾好，2018 年底有三项新计划即将 展开，就像这个空间要迎来崭新变化一样。

这个空间会有什么新变化？ 餐厅会重新装修，预计 2018 年底再对 外开放。我们会在这里打造全新概念空间， 现在还不能透露细节，只能说是精致餐饮 领域，也是新加坡未曾见过的全新类型。

一瞬间，之后只能于记忆中追寻。您所创 作的就是这种极为短暂的艺术形式。餐厅 关门，内部全拆或全面改装之后，还有办 法享受和回味吗？餐厅会以何种方式存在， 在你心里或记忆中吗？ 对我来说都不成问题－这是一场表演， 就像舞蹈演出一般。 有种看到美丽的沙堡随着海浪袭来消逝不 见的感觉，剩下的就只有沙子了。我该怎 么记住它们？ 两者有所差别，以伟大的艺术家或画 家为例，他们都为自己所处的时代树立了 里程碑。说到 60、70 或 90 年代，就会想 到当时代表性的音乐、时尚或餐饮风格。 除了艺术家呈现给世人的杰作，受启迪的 新世代更是关键所在。我敢说亚洲区的年 轻世代，如果来过我的餐厅，一定会受我 们的料理风格启发。现在看到菜式端上桌， 不会说 ： 「很有法国或意大利风味，而是会

说很有『Noma』或『Thomas Keller』的风 格。」出现如此转变，厨师个人风格对于菜 式影响之深可见一斑。

那以后人们会说「真有 André 风格」吗？ 希望如此，期望我的「八角哲学」可 以驱动大家寻找自己的烹调 DNA，并时时 深思对于自己创作及工作方式而言，最重 要的关键字词是什么。这有助于认识自我。 接下来想做什么？ 在澳洲时，有个来工作度假修厨的华 人学生来找我。他手拿中文版的《八角哲 学》说道： 「江主厨，这本书对我太重要了。」 市面上与烹调相关有中文翻译的参考书籍 并不多，有很多中国年轻厨师很希望学习， 而他们没有相关参考书。我真心觉得可以 为年轻世代做更多的事，开个工作坊，甚 至可以办个学校。当下千思万绪让我突然 悟到： 「就这么办了，此时不做更待何时？」

你认为「Restaurant André」有哪些精彩 成就？ 身 为 华 人 法 式 料 理 厨 师， 我 希 望 我 鼓舞了所有年轻的华人厨师。「Restaurant André」与烹调传统法国菜无关，没有一道 菜式在法国料理史中出现过，它们代表的 是法国菜的未来。 一路走来，我们立下了许多标竿 ：首 位名列「全球 50 最佳」的华人厨师、首家 在开业之初便主打自然农法酿制葡萄酒的 新加坡餐厅。大家可能觉得讶异，但道理 其实很简单，既然选择购买有机农产而不 是工厂培植的食材，自然也不可能选择在 酿制过程添加化学物质的酒厂所出品的葡 萄酒。我们选酒的方式和选红萝卜如出一 辙 ：看的是哪家种的、怎么养的，以及是 否和我们的烹饪哲学相互呼应。 餐厅为亚洲树立了典范，这点非常重 要。过去 10 年，我们为餐厅、为自己、为 新加坡花费了许多心力。新加坡从没有过 像「Restaurant André」一样独树一帜的餐厅。 我们创造了许多耀眼佳绩，让新加坡在全 球餐饮舞台上发光发亮。 last dance

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With a spectacular parting menu, one of the world’s most creative chefs closes his groundbreaking restaurant. 全球最具创意的天才主厨之一端出华丽的惜别美馔， 为创举不断、独树一帜的餐厅划下休止符。

BY LUCY MORGAN

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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“AT RESTAURANT ANDRÉ, we never repeat dishes, we always move on and create new ones,” says André Chiang in explaining one of the challenges he faced in drawing up a list for the famous restaurant’s farewell menu, offered to guests up to the final day of service on February 14, 2018. Chiang had to make a selection that would not only delight diners’ palates, but would also embody the restaurant’s spirit and history.

Because Chiang’s constantly evolving cuisine has generated such a great number of imaginative dishes over the years, making a limited selection became a difficult task.

“We shortlisted nearly forty items, but that’s really too much – it exceeds human tolerance!” he laughs. “But this is our last dance, and we don’t want regrets over leaving something out.”

Chiang finally narrowed things down to twenty-eight dishes, which may sound daunting for diners until he explains that

ten of the items are small snacks, always an integral part of the Restaurant André experience. “I like to begin with all sorts of different ones – they have a purpose, they build up gradually and prepare you for the main dishes,” he explains. “My snacks can take an hour to eat.” They are followed by eight main courses, each representing one of the eight elements of Octaphilosophy expressed in eight words that define Chiang’s approach: pure, texture, artisan, salt, unique,

south, memory, terroir . Concluding are four tempting desserts and a beautiful selection of mignardises. The whole experience can take as long as four hours.

The menu would be the last chance to savor the majority of Restaurant André’s offerings. “I don’t think I will make most of t h e s e d i s h e s a g a i n , ” s ays C h i a n g .

“Octaphilosophy is the DNA of Restaurant André, so when it’s finished, Octaphilosophy is finished.”

One dish that will survive the demise is memory , a soft foie gras jelly with black truffle coulis, invented by Chiang in France in 1997 [cover photo]. “This dish I will carry everywhere I go,” he says. “Only if I become a sculptor or a potter will I stop making it.”

Chiang seems content with his final choices: “I think twenty-eight courses is the minimum we can present to our guests.

Every one of these dishes means something important to us. One might represent a particular moment in time, one has an intriguing story behind it, another could just be a particular favorite of ours. In fact, all of these are my favorite dishes, they’re all very special. Restaurant André’s cuisine is not just about the things I like to cook, it’s about the journey, the people I’ve met from the South of France, Taiwan, Japan, Singapore – it’s about everything.”

“But this is our last dance, and we don’t want regrets over leaving something out. 但这是我们的『最后一支舞』，我绝不希望因有所遗漏而抱撼。” 「Restaurant André」 于 2018 年 2 月 14 日 正

他最终删减至 28 道菜，乍听依旧令人

式歇业，构思营业最后一天的菜单势必会遇

瞠目结舌，但他说明，其中十道为小点，也

「28 道菜已经是非常浓缩的精华版了。对于

到不少挑战，主厨江振诚 (André Chiang) 表

是「Restaurant André」用餐体验中不可或缺

我们来说，每道菜都意义非凡 ：一些可能代

示挑战之一就是这间知名的餐厅向来不推出

的一环。他形容 ： 「我喜欢先上各式各样的小

表某个特别的时刻，一些可能有引人入胜的

重复的菜式，持续创造全新料理。江主厨必

东西，这些小点充当热身运动，让他们准备

小故事，另一些可能是我们最钟爱的菜式等。

须保证上桌的料理不仅要能惊艳饕客的味蕾，

好享用主菜。在这光吃小点就能花上一小时。 」

但老实说，它们全部都是我的最爱，每道菜

也要体现餐厅的精神及历史。

点心后接着是八道主菜，代表主厨料理风格

都是独一无二的。 『Restaurant André』的料

的核心－「八角哲学」中的各个环节 ：纯粹

理不仅是我喜欢烹调的菜式，也是一段旅程， 更是我在南法、台湾、日本、新加坡所遇见

「我们挑了 40 样菜进入待定名 验。他笑言 ：

(pure)、质 (texture)、工艺 (artisan)、盐 (salt)、 独 特 (unique)、 南 法 (south)、 忆 (memory) 及风土 (terroir)。最后则以四道令人垂涎的甜

单，但还是太多了，远超过人体极限！但这

点及精美的茶点拼盘划下完美句点，一顿饭

是我们的『最后一支舞』 ，我绝不希望因有所

吃下来长达四个小时。

多年来，在主厨持续进化的料理风格主 导下，餐厅累积了为数可观的创意菜式，如 何从中精挑细选出惜别宴的菜式成为一大考

遗漏而抱撼。 」

这 可 说 是 品 尝「Restaurant André」 绝 大部分精致美味的最后机会。主厨表示 ： 「我 想我以后也不会再做这些菜了。 『八角哲学』 为『Restaurant André』的 DNA，餐厅关门， 『八角哲学』自然也成为历史。 」唯一不会随 之落幕的只剩名为「忆」的软嫩鹅肝松露冻， 这是主厨 1997 年在法国创作的菜式。他说 ： 「我走到哪这道菜就跟到哪，除非有天我成了 雕刻家或陶艺家，才会放弃不做。 」

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主厨看来对于最后选出的菜式十分满意：

的人和事物，以及一切的一切。 」

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Air Baguette 空气法棍

This miniature French bread stick is the signature dish of Chiang’s good friend Albert Adrià of Tickets in Barcelona. The two famed chefs of East and West once exchanged signatures – this and Chiang’s dish Camembert – on their menus as a mark of their friendship and respect for each other’s work. Hollow bread is filled with lentil hummus and Jabugo ham fat.

The tiny loaf gets a touch of Singapore with the addition of rich and salty century-egg powder.

Albert Adrià 是巴塞罗那「Tickets」餐厅的主厨，也是江主厨的挚友。这两位来自东西方的名厨曾经交换彼此的招牌菜－主 厨的甜点「Camembert」和 Albert 的空气法国长棍面包，向两人的友谊及对方的专业致敬。空心面包里注满了扁豆泥和伊比 利亚火腿，主厨妙手掺入一丝新加坡风格，用浓郁的咸皮蛋粉进行调味，让这道小点更具风味。

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Abalone, Kombu, Liver 鲍鱼、昆布、肝

This strikingly presented abalone dish is the fourth snack on the menu. A thin kombu crisp supports delicately coiled, sea-water-cured slices of raw abalone on a mousse of abalone liver. A sprinkling of kombu salt highlights the flavors. The crispy sea vegetable splinters in the mouth, allowing the meaty texture and natural buttery flavor of the abalone to preside. And to lend an authentic marine scent and setting, the dish is served in a pearly half shell filled with dried seaweed. 这是菜单上的第四道小点，摆盘别致，经海水腌制的 鲍鱼细心卷成圈状，置于鲍鱼肝慕丝上，底下是细薄 的昆布干。主厨再细心洒上昆布盐，酥脆的海草于 入口瞬间裂解，烘托鲍鱼的丰富口感及天然的绵密 滋味。此道豪华小点下方垫着干海苔，盛于珍珠 般剔透的单片贝壳内，令人犹如徜徉于大海中， 感受最纯粹的原味。

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Pure: Chanterelle, Shiitake, Matsutake 纯粹 : 鸡油菇、香菇、松茸 This is the first of eight courses on the menu that exemplify the elements of Octaphilosophy, Chiang’s unique approach at Restaurant André. The dish represents the element pure , whose purpose is to emphasize the natural flavors of ingredients. In this case, mushrooms and their versatility are celebrated. “We show different types of mushrooms in different ways,” says Chiang. “This is a really seasonal dish, and we have it on the menu now only because it is winter.”

The three types of mushrooms star in varied roles. A crisp tartlet made from black pepper pastry is filled with milk curds and topped with mushrooms. A shot glass filled with deeply fragrant shiitake broth brings a mysterious umami to the dish. Camouflaged in a leathery carapace and hidden behind a thin, skin-like membrane are more mushrooms, their juicy tenderness yielding the sweetest and purest of mushroom essence. 这是主厨在「Restaurant André」所贯彻的独特料理风格－「八角哲学」中的第一道主菜，代表的是「纯粹」 ，目的在 「我们用不同方式呈现不同菇类的特 于强调食材的天然风味。 这道菜可说将菇类的各种可变性发挥到极致。主厨说明 ： 性，是一道季节限定的菜式，正因时值冬天，菜单才能加入这道菜。 」 三种菇类各自扮演要角 ：以黑胡椒面团制作的酥皮馅饼里面放了牛奶馅，再缀上菇类，一旁的烈酒杯则倒入香味四 溢的香菇高汤，更能突显这道菜的鲜味。客人可于皮革状的背甲或薄膜后发现更多菇类的踪迹，多汁软嫩的口感带出 专属于菇类无可比拟的香甜及纯粹。

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Texture: Dry-Aged Scallop, Fungus Floss, Demi-Glace 质 : 风干扇贝、真菌丝、法式蜜酱 A simple-looking dish employs a series of complex processes to yield what Chiang describes as an “umami bomb” for his Octaphilosophy texture course. “Umami doesn’t come only from produce,” explains Chiang, “but also from the processes we use. This dish collects umami from everywhere .” With a cutting-edge method from Japan, the scallop is quickly dry-aged to intensify umami. It is served with a remarkable vegetable-only demi-glace that requires six to eight hours of roasting, charring, adding water, and reducing to intensify the umami. The scallop is topped with fungus floss made by cooking mushrooms down slowly without additions to concentrate their natural umami. Dehydrated tofu lends a further umami hit of savory soybean flavors, and a pickled onion, kombu, and kombucha granita frozen with liquid nitrogen complete the dish. Umami comes from sea, from land, and from cleverly applied techniques: fermentation, pickling, dehydration, dry-aging, and reduction. 这道菜看似简单，却蕴藏多道繁复的工法，成就的便是「八角哲学」主菜之一「质」, 也是主厨口中的「鲜味炸弹」 。江 主厨解释 ： 「鲜味除了来自食材本身，同时也源于我们的料理过程。这道菜的目的在于我们想要聚集四方八面的鲜味。 」 扇贝沿用日本的领先技术处理，快速风干，以保留原有的鲜味。搭配的法式蜜酱全以蔬菜制成，厨房团队要全神投入六 到八小时制作，先将蔬菜烘烤至外层焦黑，再加水慢慢收汁。真菌丝放在扇贝上，为保留菌类原有的鲜味，需慢火烹调， 并不添加任何调味，然后佐以豆腐干，增添豆类的风味，提升味道的层次。最后配上腌渍洋葱、昆布及经液态氮冷冻的 红茶菌冰沙上桌，将来自大海和陆地的鲜味，以及发酵、腌渍、脱水和蔬菜还原收干等各式烹调技巧集于一堂。

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Terroir: Pigeonneau Royal D’anjou, Chicory Red Beetroot Sandwich 风土 : 安茹皇家乳鸽、 菊苣红甜菜根三明治 Terroir in Octaphilosophy is related to the well-known principle: that the qualities of a soil affect the flavors of the produce grown in it. Chiang creates a “soil of bitterness” from coffee, cacao nibs, and licorice and then buries a lightly seared Anjou pigeon in it before cooking with hot stones. “The soil’s ingredients change the character of the pigeon,” he says. “They create a bitterness and aroma that act like a shadow.” 土壤会影响水果的品质，赐予水果该土壤的味道。 「八角哲学」 中的「风土」与这个原理相关。主厨用咖啡、可可粒及甘草 创造「带有苦味的土壤」 ，将稍经炙烧的法国安茹乳鸽埋 入其中，再以热石烹煮。他表示 ： 「 『土壤』中的 材料会改变乳鸽的品质，营造出 一种苦味，犹如影子般 突显乳鸽的美 味。 」

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Black Gold: Escargot, Blood, Reindeer Heart 黑金 : 蜗牛、血、驯鹿心 This tiny, crispy mouthful is a nostalgic snack inspired by Chiang’s hunting trips during his years in France. Many times, while stalking through the forest, he would come upon snails on the ground and fill his pockets with them. At home, he’d place the mollusks in a crate in the backyard and feed them herbs to fatten them up before feasting with his friends.

The dish’s oatmeal crispy case is filled with rich and succulent escargot and topped with golden ribbons of dried reindeer heart. “This snack is like a hunter’s breakfast,” says Chiang. “It has a really strong wintery taste.” ​ 这道小巧酥脆的一口点心灵感来自主厨多年前于法国的打猎经历。当时，在山林间狩猎的路上，他总不 忘捡拾地上的蜗牛，塞到口袋满满都是。回到家后，他把蜗牛放进后院的木箱内，用各种香草当饲料， 养肥后再与友人们大快朵颐一番。 这道菜的燕麦脆饼里吃到的是风味十足、多汁的蜗牛肉，其上放着用驯鹿心干做成的金黄色缎带。 主厨说 ： 「这个小点有点像是猎人的早餐，散发浓浓的寒冬滋味。 」

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Lavande 薰衣草

An exquisite “post dessert” that is as fun to eat as it is to behold, Lavande is a celebration of purple ingredients from the season: lavender, blackcurrant, shiso, and Red Garnet amaranth artfully combined to make an aromatic and vibrantly violet mouthful. This delicious concoction, decorated with a pretty sprig of lavender blossom, is served in a chilled glass tube and enjoyed by sucking it from the bottom. 不论是吃，还是欣赏这道名为薰衣草的精致「点心 后小点」, 均是趣味横生。以当季的各种紫色食材 为主角，用薰衣草、黑加仑、紫苏及小品红苋菜构 成组合，犹如艺术品一般，是集芬芳及生气于一身 的紫色小点。这个美味的混搭小品盛于冰试管中 , 绑上一束雅致的薰衣草上桌，品尝时要从底部吸吮， 相当别出心裁。 last dance

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Pêche De Vigne, Muscadine, Pink Coriander 葡萄园桃子、马斯卡丁葡萄、粉红芫荽

Sweet Beef 甜牛肉 Served on a pristine beef bone, these glistening slices of ruby-red “meat” are, in fact, made from watermelon. Chiang thought about innovative ways to conserve the fresh flavors of the summer favorite so guests could enjoy them all winter. The fruit is sun-dried to create a leathery texture while preserving perfect juiciness. “We don’t tell guests what it is,” says Chiang, “we just introduce it as ‘sweet beef.’”

“You can actually taste pink in this dish,” says Chiang. “I captured everything pink from the season, and I even made a plate out of very special pink clay and decorated it with cherry blossom petals, because I didn’t want to put this on a white one.” Translucent slices of French muscadine grape, painstakingly deseeded by hand, conceal chilled parfait and espuma made from ripe raspberries. A wonderfully perfumed soup of pêche de vigne adds another dimension of fruitiness to a dish that is finished with the daintiest of pink coriander flowers, lending a hint of their grassy, aromatic nature. “You can categorize ingredients in different ways,” says Chiang, “such as by season or altitude. In this dessert, I have categorized by color.” 主厨形容 ： 「这道菜让人尝到粉红的滋味。我把当季粉红的东西全找来，甚至还自己 用特殊的粉红陶土做了个餐盘，用樱花瓣装饰，这是因为我觉得白色盘子好像和这道 菜不太搭。 」这道小点制作相当耗时，清透的马斯卡丁葡萄一颗颗以手工去籽，冰糕 及熟成覆盆莓泡沫隐身其中。芳香扑鼻的葡萄园扁桃汤让果味更添层次，上桌前放上 轻巧的粉红芫荽花，隐隐散发一丝来自草地的天然芬芳，更是神来一笔。他说 ： 「食 材可用不同方式归类，用季节或海拔都行，这里用的则是颜色。 」

这片放在洁净牛骨上，散发着红宝石光芒的 「肉片」其实是用西瓜做成的。主厨为了让 宾客在冬季也能尝到属于夏天的新鲜美味， 想出了许多创新的保存方法。他把果肉晒 干，营造皮革般的质感，保存西瓜特有的丰 富果汁。他自豪表示 :「我们上菜时不会特 别介绍，只说这是『甜牛肉』 。 」

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Artisan: 17 Légumes Du Moment, Charred Toro Vinaigrette, Fermented Broth 工艺 : 17 种时令蔬菜、炙烤鲔鱼油醋酱、发酵高汤

The third Octaphilosophy course is a zero-waste dish containing all seventeen of the vegetables grown on the restaurant’s farm in Taiwan. Every part of every one ends up on the plate, served in two stages. First comes a refreshing salad made from the best parts of each vegetable – some raw, some pickled, some semicooked. It is decorated with vegetable flowers and served with flavorful roasted toro vinaigrette. Once guests have finished, a light broth is poured into the dishes to be enjoyed as a soup. “Our produce arrives with roots, stalks, and flowers,” explains Chiang, “because we grow it ourselves and we don’t like to waste any part. The trimmings go into a fermentation for two to four days and are used to make the broth. Artisan celebrates the hard work of the people who raise our high-quality ingredients.”

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代表「八角哲学」的第三道菜选用「Restaurant André」 的台湾专属农场所产的 17 种蔬菜，从头到尾皆能入菜， 没有一丝一毫浪费。将蔬菜完整地上桌需经过两个步骤 ： 首先是取自各种蔬菜最佳部位的新鲜沙拉，包括生的、 腌过的或稍微煮过的 ；接着，以蔬菜花朵装饰，搭配风 味十足的烤鲔鱼油醋酱上桌。待客人享用完沙拉后，便 往餐盘倒入清汤，即可当成汤来享用。主厨解释这道菜 的由来 ： 「农产品是我们自己栽种的，所以到店的时候都 是带着根、茎及花的。我们一点都不想浪费，把它们修 剪整理后发酵二至四天即可用来制作高汤。 『工艺』正是 代表小农们栽种高品质食材所花费的心血。 」

South: Atlantic Halibut, Oyster, Pork Trotter 南法 : 大西洋比目鱼、生蚝、猪脚

“People may think these ingredients aren’t related, but they are,” says Chiang of the sixth of his Octaphilosophy courses, south , which features an unlikely mélange on a single plate. Chiang spent ten years in the South of France, and this dish serves as his homage to a region where halibut, pig’s trotters, and oysters are popular and are often seen together. Chiang finely slices the trotter and arranges it on the meltingly tender halibut to mimic scales. The fish’s succulent texture is achieved by preparing it as a confit in parsley oil. An oyster topped with red coral adds salinity, and the tangy dressing combines two traditional condiments from France’s South: balsamic vinegar, often eaten with oysters, and cornichons, a common accompaniment to pigs’ trotters. Chiang has kept the plating simple to make the ingredients the stars: “We don’t want every dish to look busy.” 主厨表示 ： 「大家可能不会把这些食材联想在一起，但其实它们彼此都有关连。 」 「八 角哲学」中的第六道主菜「南法」将看似不可能搭配的食材全放在同一盘上。他在 南法待了将近十年的时间，也藉由这道菜将该地区时常一起出现的比目鱼、猪脚及 生蚝一网打尽，向南法致敬。猪脚切成薄片，放在入口即化的软嫩比目鱼上，做出 鱼鳞的视觉效果。鱼肉浸入巴西里油内油封处理，鲜嫩多汁。生蚝缀上红珊瑚，添 加天然的咸度。最后使用的酱汁则是结合南法两种传统的调味料而成，相当新鲜有 趣 ：享用生蚝的好搭档巴萨米香醋及品尝猪脚常见的佐料腌小黄瓜。主厨尽量让摆 盘简单，让食材当主角 ： 「我们可不想每道菜都让人眼花缭乱。 」

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Butternut, Salted Egg, Vanilla 胡桃南瓜、咸蛋、香草 This beautiful bite resembles an amber-winged butterfly at rest and might be mistaken for a mignardise. In fact, it appears as part of Chiang’s snack ensemble and was inspired by a taco. Fashioned from a paper-thin slice of naturally sweet butternut squash, the delicious demilune is cooked until it acquires the texture of spun sugar and is served with butternut mousse. The exquisite mouthful disappears with the initial crunch, leaving a tantalizing aftertaste reminiscent of cake frosting. 这道华美的小口甜点纹路犹如蝴蝶休息时展开的琥珀色翅膀，乍看可能以为是餐后的一 口茶点，但其实它是主厨小点组合中的其中一道，灵感来自墨西哥卷饼。味道鲜甜的胡 桃南瓜切成纸般薄片，形似半月，煮至犹如棉花糖的质地后，搭配胡桃南瓜慕斯便大功 告成。这精致的点心一开始带点酥脆，接着旋即于口中化开，留下的后味就像蛋糕糖霜 一般，直叫人吮指回味。

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Unique: Sayori Barigoule, Fumet Emulsion, Artichoke & Porcini 独特 : 炖针鱼汤、乳化鱼汤、朝鲜蓟与牛肝菌 The sayori , or needlefish, in this savory artichoke-centric dish is more commonly used for sushi or sashimi. Its presence in a traditionally Provençal recipe provides a clue to its name, unique , the menu’s fifth dish in the Octaphilosophy series. The flesh of this unusual fish, with its slender body and long, toothed “beak,” is very firm when raw but becomes perfectly tender when cooked. Chunks of sayori are teamed with artichoke served in several different ways: puréed, pan-seared, raw, and in the form of deepfried crispy slices that add texture and crunch. Instead of the old-fashioned barigoule broth, Chiang has reinvented a French classic by creating a foam of artichoke barigoule.

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针鱼 (sayori) 在这道以朝鲜蓟为中心的美味料理中主要作 为寿司或生鱼片。针鱼出现在传统的普罗旺斯菜中着实前 所未见，因此与菜单上第五道「八角哲学」主菜「独特」 相呼应。针鱼身体细长，最前端的「长喙」满布牙齿，颇 为吓人，但此种特殊鱼类生吃的话，肉质相当扎实，煮过 后却又变得相当软嫩。多块针鱼鱼肉搭配朝鲜蓟，经不同 处理方式后上桌，肉泥、平底锅炙烧、生鱼片，以及油炸 后的酥脆鱼片，添加许多口感及爽脆感。主厨不循传统的 炖汤煮法，而是将此法国经典菜式重新改良，以朝鲜蓟泡 沫取代，创意十足。

Rice Ice Cream, Amasake, Rice Puffs 米淇淋、甘酒、米泡芙 Served in a lustrous golden bowl, this dessert is a testament to a highly prized rice grown in Japan’s Aomori prefecture. The Japanese minister of agriculture invited Chiang to create a recipe using this special ingredient. Impressed by its distinctive starchiness, texture, and flavor, Chiang decided to star it in a frozen dish all its own. “I call it ‘r-ice cream.’ Fermented rice is used instead of sugar and rice milk instead of dairy. On top is fermented rice congee espuma coated with rice powder and puffed rice and seasoned with a pinch of salt. It’s a rice bowl, something very familiar to the Japanese. The minister really liked it and said he would provide the rice to the restaurant – a great honor.”

这是一款盛于散发金黄光泽的碗中出场的甜点，也是向备 受推崇的日本青森米致敬的杰作。日本农林水产大臣亲自 邀请主厨使用青森所产的高品质白米开创新菜。青森米淀 粉含量高，口感及味道都令人惊艳，主厨决定以白米为主 角，打造专属的冰冻冷盘。他表示 ： 「我称之为『米淇淋』 ， 用发酵米取代糖，乳制品则以米浆替代。最上面是发酵米 粥泡沫，裹上白米粉及米泡芙，再加一搓盐调味，放在日 本人再熟悉不过的饭碗上桌。大臣相当喜欢，说要为餐厅 提供青森米－真是极大的荣耀。 」

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Onion Petal and Uni 洋葱瓣及海胆

Fiercely marine in flavor and designed to mimic squid nigiri, this ingenious snack is formed from a single onion petal, whose allium qualities have been subdued by gentle cooking in dashi broth. The softened onion is filled with sea lettuce, rice, and sea urchin, formed into a cylinder, and served with a mushroom garum dipping sauce. The center delivers a strong seawater hit, and the onion exterior offers a mildly earthy contrast. 这道巧夺天工的小点形似乌贼寿司，以一瓣洋葱为基底，葱蒜味在高汤慢煮下变得 温和许多，入口尽是海洋的鲜甜美味。煮软的洋葱内放入石莼、米及海胆，折成锥 状后可蘸蘑菇鱼酱享用。小点正中部位吃得到强烈的海水味，相比之下外围甜嫩洋 葱温和的土味余韵则久久不消。

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Cucumber Grape 小黄瓜葡萄

This dessert originated with a discovery Chiang made on an environmental mission to Borneo to protect the rain forests from conversion to palm-oil plantations. Deep in the Kalimantan jungle, Chiang found a wild berry with a unique texture, a grape-like appearance, and a flavor rather like cucumber. Served perfectly chilled and dusted with dried Davidson plum, native to Australia, the dish is a refreshing reminder of the natural treasures of the region. 这道菜的源头可追溯到主厨某次深入婆罗洲，保护雨林不变为棕榈油产地的环保之旅。主厨在丛林 中发现一种口感独特、看似葡萄的野莓，舒爽的味道却又神似小黄瓜。他把这野莓放上冰盘、洒上 原产于澳洲的戴维森李子粉，耳目一新的味道让人想起东南亚地区丰富的天然宝藏。

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Salt: Squid Spaghetti, Kelp Jus, Prawn Roe 盐 ：墨鱼意大利面、海草酱、虾籽 Tender squid spaghetti is slowly cooked in salted butter, coiled with slivered snow peas, drenched in deep-green kelp jus, and served on mashed potato made from the world’s costliest variety, La Bonnotte, which absorbs flavors from the seawater of Noirmoutier island where it grows. The dish’s saline and mineral notes come from the ingredients themselves, and a sprinkling of dried prawn roe adds umami to this emerald mouthful redolent of the sea. 软嫩的墨鱼意大利面用盐味牛油慢火烹调， 然后卷上银白酥脆的荷兰豆，再淋上深绿色 的海草酱。法国努瓦而穆杰岛上种植的 La

Bonnotte 马铃薯吸收了海水的风味，是世 界上最贵的马铃薯。这道菜更是选用这种马 铃薯做薯泥，菜品带有的盐味源自食材的本 身。最后洒上虾籽，让蕴含的无穷海中鲜美 滋味更上一层楼。

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Madeleine & Financier Ice Cream Uncle

玛德莲与费南雪 Proust might be newly inspired by Chiang’s “madeleine” that combines two classic mignardises. Traditional madeleine cake is folded into nougat and then pressed in a traditional mold. Chiang’s “financier” cake follows old-school technique by using red copper pans, rather than modern silicone molds, and placing them directly on hot charcoal to ensure the classic crispy crust. During the last two minutes, the chef tosses toasted buckwheat into the oven to give the cake a smoky taste. 主厨全新升级版的「玛德莲」糅合了两种 经典法国茶点。如果法国文豪普鲁斯特能 吃到这款甜品，想必也会再次深受启发。 主厨把牛轧糖加入传统的「玛德莲」中重 新组合，但最后仍以传统的玛德莲模塑形 上桌。他的「费南雪」则沿袭老方法，使

冰淇淋老伯

Smoked Tea, Chestnut, Licorice 熏茶、栗子、甘草 Served in a “granny’s workbox” from Scandinavia, these luscious lollipops are naturally no-waste – even the sticks are made from edible slivers of licorice root.

The ganache is flavored with smoked tea, chestnut, and licorice, winter ingredients that give it a robust and almost savory edge. “It’s a very masculine flavor,” says Chiang.

用红铜制平锅而非现代常见的矽胶模。铜

Ice cream sandwiches made with wafers or bright-colored bread are a Singaporean favorite sold by street vendor “uncles.”

When Chiang heard about an 85-year-old vendor injured in a car accident, he decided to devote a dessert to him. Inspired by Snickers bar flavors, the dish features ice cream served between fresh milk wafers or rainbow bread brioche. Chiang celebrates the ice cream culture of Singapore and also helps the vendor by donating a part of each sale. 路边「老伯」卖的冰淇淋三明治，即冰淇 淋夹上两片窝夫或色彩缤纷的面包，就是 新加坡人最爱的街头小吃。之前某个 85 岁 的供应商不幸因车祸受伤的消息。主厨得 知后，他便决定以老伯为名打造一道甜点， 以向新加坡的冰淇淋文化致敬，同时捐助

锅可以直接放在木炭上加热，保证费南雪

两支令人食指大动的棒棒糖装在北欧来的

所得利润为他提供资助，让他可以继续从

呈现应有的经典美味脆皮。主厨将一把烤

「祖母工具箱」里，可说从头到尾没有一

事喜欢的工作。甜点以士力架巧克力棒为

荞麦放进烤箱，以增加烟熏风味，然后再

丝浪费，连棒子都是以可食用的甘草根所

灵感，可以选择搭配鲜奶窝夫或彩虹布里

待两分钟，蛋糕就完成了。

制成。甘纳许用熏茶、栗子以及甘草进行

欧面包享用。

调味，冬天的代表性食材营造出扎实美味 的口感。主厨形容 ： 「这是种非常阳刚的 味道。 」

Writer Lucy Morgan and photographer David Hartung capture the sentiment, the enduring esprit de corps, and the lingering wistfulness of a great restaurant ’s finale.

COVER STORY

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COVER STORY

EARLY ON THE MORNING of October 11, 2017, chef André Chiang stunned the global ­gastronomic community by announcing that Restaurant André would close on February 14,

2018.

Chiang had captivated Singapore diners with his unique interpretation of modern French cuisine soon after arriving ten years earlier to helm restaurant Jaan par Andre at Swissôtel The Stamford. The Taiwan-born chef had brought with him more than a decade of experience working in France with such renowned chefs as Pierre Gagnaire, Pascal Barbot, Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, and Michel Troisgros.

In October 2010, Chiang opened Restaurant André on Singapore’s Bukit Pasoh Road.

Ever since, local and international diners have congregated there to experience Chiang’s extraordinary Octaphilosophy menus, based on a set of eight words which embody the spirit of his culinary style.

Set back from a narrow street on the outskirts of Singapore’s Chinatown, a charming white shophouse is about to see some big changes. For the past seven years, it has been home to Restaurant André, a thirty-cover fine-dining destination ranked number one in Singapore by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The building is about to undergo renovation before reopening with an entirely new gastronomic concept, and Restaurant André is living out its last days.

The atmosphere inside is surprisingly calm. Kitchen staff continue their long, strenuous daily schedule, beginning with the relaxed camaraderie of the morning’s mise en place and ending with the concentrated exertion of dinner service. Although team members remain absorbed in the next task, they know that in a few days, they’ll wake up with very different lives. Front-of-house staff continue to iron, dust, lay tables, and welcome guests with professionalism and warmth. The shock of the closure announcement appears to have waned, replaced by acceptance and an understanding that chef André Chiang, although their boss, is first and foremost an artist and that this particular gastronomic work of art is now complete.

Chiang and his wife, Sudarampai “Pam” Chiang (who is general manager), balance the disparate tasks of hosting their final guests and packing up to move. Chiang is a tall and imposing man with a serious demeanor who regularly breaks into a warm and engaging smile. Pam, slender and with a delicate beauty, moves with purpose and intelligence in attending to every detail of the restaurant’s operations.

Chiang seems remarkably tranquil and poised during the denouement, and, given the pace of the previous weeks, he doesn’t look tired. Laughing readily, he chats with the staff and hosts press conferences with charm and ease. Pam’s affection for the place and her concern for the team are clear, and she seems emotional about the impending closure. She is fire to Chiang’s calm water, and the restaurant – an anniversary gift from the chef to his wife – has always been a token of their love. It seems apt that the last service at Restaurant André should take place on the evening of St. Valentine’s Day.

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“ This is the best staff we’ve ever had, and it’s very hard to say goodbye.

这是我们有史以来最棒的 员工团队，我们舍不得跟 他们道别。” Sudarampai “Pam” Chiang

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“Thank you for every day, for all your hard work, for the good days and the bad days that we’ve been through.

谢谢你们每天的辛劳，感谢各位和我们度过那些起跌 浮沉的时光。” André Chiang

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COVER STORY

“ Restaurant André would never have been able to do this without you. You’re part of this family and of one of the best restaurants in the world.

没有你们就没有今天的『Restaurant André』。 你们都是这个家庭的成员，也是世上最棒餐厅 的一份子。” André Chiang

2017 年 10 月 11 日早晨，主厨江振诚 (André Chiang) 宣布了一则震撼全球美 食界的消息－「Restaurant André」拟于 2018 年 2 月 14 日拉下帷幕。 十 年 前， 主 厨 抵 达 新 加 坡 接 掌 史 丹 福 瑞 士 酒 店 法 国 餐 厅「Jaan Par Andre」，从那时起便展现他对现代法国料理的独到诠释，一举掳获新加坡老 饕们的味蕾。当时，这位来自台湾的大厨便已在法国累积了多年的工作经验， 曾 与 Pierre Gagnaire、Pascal Barbot、Jacques Pourcel、Laurent Pourcel 以 及 Michel Troisgros 等一众世界名厨合作。

2010 年 10 月， 主 厨 在 新 加 坡 的 武 吉 巴 梳 路 上 开 设 了「Restaurant André」。开业以来，海内外慕名而来的食客络绎不绝，纷纷前来体验他令人 惊艳的「八角哲学」 。菜单上仅以简单的八个字词，融会了主厨的厨艺核心 精神。 藏身于新加坡中国城外围的一条小路内，一栋白色店屋 ( 唐楼 ) 即将迎 来巨大的改变。七年来，这栋迷人的建筑都是「Restaurant André」的店面， 而「世界 50 最佳餐厅」排行榜更将这间只有三十个座位的精致餐厅评为新 加坡第一餐馆。这栋建筑即将被大幅整修，搭配全新的美食概念重新开张， 而「Restaurant André」演绎最终乐章的日子也正式步入倒数阶段。 餐厅内的气氛异常宁静。厨房人员一如往常地致力完成每日工作项目， 从轻松愉快的餐前准备开始，一直到晚餐上菜时仍旧聚精会神。虽然餐厅团 队每一位成员都专注于手边的任务，但他们心底都明白再过几天，他们即将 迎接全然不同的生活。外场服务人员依旧卖力熨烫、擦拭以及铺设餐桌，还 继续用他们的专业和热情迎接前来用餐的客人。餐厅宣布即将歇业的冲击似 乎已逐渐淡去，取而代之的是理解与接受。员工们理解主厨虽身为他们的老 板，但更是一位美食艺术家，而「Restaurant André」这场美食艺术盛宴已 是一部完成的作品。

Sudarampai “Pam” Chiang 是主厨的太太，也是餐厅经理。她和主厨必 须在招待最后的客人和准备搬家事务这两项迥然不同的任务之间取得平衡。 江振诚身材高挑，举止威严，虽不苟言笑，却时常展露他温暖迷人的笑容。 太太 Pam 则纤瘦又秀外慧中，在处理餐厅营运的每项细节时都展现她的智 慧与果断。 看着餐厅步入尾声，主厨似乎心平气和、泰然自若，就算前几周日程紧 凑，他脸上也没有显露一丝疲态。与餐厅团队畅谈时，主厨不时发出他爽朗 的笑声 ；举办记者会时，他也轻松自若。Pam 对餐厅的眷恋以及对团队的担 心却显而易见。随着歇业时刻逐渐逼近，她心中也显得波澜汹涌。相较于主 厨的稳如止水，Pam 则心若烈火。其实「Restaurant André」本就是主厨送 给太太的结婚周年礼物， 一直都是两人相爱的信物。这样看来， 将「Restaurant

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“ We make sure that every knife and fork is in the same line using a tape measure.

We measure every napkin, and we’re just as careful with the tablecloths and the ironing. Every table and chair is in an exact position – we know all the angles.”

Dennis Schacht, Assistant Restaurant Manager

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“ 我们用卷尺确认每一

只刀叉都排列整齐， 每一张餐巾都经过测 量，桌巾也都经过仔 细熨烫。每张桌子每 张椅子都摆放在特定 位置，丝毫不差，所 有的角度我们都了若 指掌。” 餐厅副经理 Dennis Schacht

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“ It’s not just a restaurant to us. 对我们来说，这不仅是一间餐厅。” André Chiang

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“ You don’t work at restaurant André by accident. You come to work here because you want to learn from a great chef.

到『Restaurant André』工作并非偶 然。来这里工作就是 为了向伟大的厨师学 习的。” Antoine Cabre, Sommelier

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“ The kitchen is very quiet – we don’t shout, we don’t push each other, curse, or rush.

We’re disciplined, there’s no chaos.

厨房总是非常安静，我们不喊叫、 不推挤、不咒骂、不匆忙。我们纪 律精良、井然有序。” André Chiang

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“ We have freedom to create our own dishes. Anybody, even the commis, can do a dish and get it on the menu.

我们可以自由创造自己的菜式， 所有人都可以，连助理厨师都能 创造一道料理然后放到菜单上。” Zor Tan, Executive Chef

行政主厨陈将停

COVER STORY

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“ I appreciate the passion that André – and also Pam his wife and the entire team – have for creating things that, frankly, we destroy in five minutes.

我很喜欢江振诚、他太太 Pam，还有整个团队对创造料理的热诚。老实跟你说， 我不用五分钟就把盘子扫空了。” Fiona Bartholomeusz, guest

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“ I used to put all our awards on the wall here in the corridor.

After the announcement, I took them all down. Suddenly the staircase looked empty, so the next day the staff put all these pictures up. They decorated the whole place. It was touching – I had tears in my eyes.

我之前把餐厅获得的奖项都挂在楼梯间的墙上，但宣布歇 业后，我全都拿下来了。楼梯间突然变得空空荡荡。所以 餐厅团队隔天就挂上了这些照片，装饰了整个空间。我好 感动，眼眶都泛泪了。” André Chiang

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“ When André opened the restaurant on 10/10/10, it was actually our wedding anniversary, and he said it was to be my gift. And on the evening of 10/10/17, he returned my life to me.

振诚在 2010 年 10 月 10 日开了这家餐厅，那天刚好是我们的 结婚纪念日，他说要把餐厅送给我当礼物。在 2017 年 10 月 10 日的晚上，他把我的生命还给了我。” Sudarampai “Pam” Chiang

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“Thank you, Singapore, for a decade of love and support. It has been the best period of my life.

新加坡，谢谢你十年来的支持与爱戴。这是我生命中最棒的时光。” André Chiang

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最佳汇澳

51 WINNERS Macau takes the prize to host Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ prestigious awards ceremony.

imaginations of those who share a given field. For the past seventeen years, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards has been just such an event in the world of cuisine. Its eagerly awaited annual list has become a trusted authority among foodies looking for the absolute best in dining around the globe. 每隔一段时间，就会有让业界人士激荡创意和想像的大型活动举行。过去17 Every once in a while, an event comes along that fires the

年来，餐饮界盛事「世界50最佳餐厅」 颁奖典礼 一直扮演这个重要角色。众所期盼的年度名单俨

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

然成为饕客的美食圣经，是全球最佳餐饮去处的权威指南。

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JUDGED BY HUNDREDS of top chefs, restaurateurs, and respected food writers, the list is a consensus view from a wide variety of experts rather than the pronouncement of a single body. As a guide to eating out, it has become both influential and indispensable.

When the awards’ organizer, William Reed Business Media, decided to create a new and more geographically targeted list in 2013, it was natural for the focus to turn to Asia. The region’s rich and diverse gastronomic landscape draws on the strengths of

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many traditions but also offers wide-open opportunities for leading-edge creativity.

The launch of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants signified global recognition of the wealth of talented chefs from all manner of backgrounds who are pursuing their dreams in this part of the world.

It was also a move that made definite sense by the numbers. With twenty countries represented on the 2013 World’s 50 Best list, six of the winning restaurants were in Asia. The regional dining scene was

bursting with gems largely undiscovered by the rest of the world, and a new Asian list would spotlight them on the international stage. It would also bring together the best chefs in Asia to be mutually inspired and motivated toward success.

The global response to the yearly Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards has surpassed all expectations. Sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, the list confers a prestige that has helped many restaurants raise their recognition profiles, and it holds the power

DAVID HARTUNG

评选过程邀集各领域专家，包括数百名一 流厨师、餐厅经营者及知名美食评论家共 同讨论，并非个别组织的一家之言。 「世界 50 最佳餐厅」是极具影响力的餐饮指南， 地位难以取替。 2013 年，该榜单评选主办单位「威廉 · 瑞德商业传媒」决定发布更具地区特色的 全新榜单，而亚洲是必然之选。亚洲地区 各种餐饮传统汇聚，这既使餐饮文化越趋 丰富多元，同时也为各种最新创意提供了 绝佳的机会。亚洲已成为来自不同领域的、 才华洋溢的厨师追逐梦想的舞台。 「亚洲

50 最佳餐厅」的推出更代表全世界对这地 区人才丰沛程度的一种肯定。 单就近年数字来看，发布「亚洲 50 最 佳餐厅」也可说是大势所趋。2013 年，当 选「世界 50 最佳餐厅」的餐厅来自 20 个 国家，其中 6 间餐厅来自亚洲。亚洲餐饮 界尚有太多瑰宝未为人所知，因此新的亚 洲名单问世，将有助这些餐厅跃上世界舞 台，同时让各大亚洲顶级厨师聚首一堂， 互相启发，激励彼此追求卓越。 「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」由意大利圣沛黎 洛矿泉水及普娜天然矿泉水赞助。该名单

发布之后，全球的回响超乎预期。挤身年 度名单可说是荣耀加身，着实协助上榜餐 厅拓展地位及知名度，甚至能让厨师一夜 成名。亚洲区餐厅投票范围涵盖 26 国，而 榜单则代表来自超过 300 位亚洲业界专家 的意见及丰富经历。 能主办「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁布典礼 的城市同样获得莫大的荣耀。今年澳门首 度雀屏中选，获选为 2018 年及 2019 年的 名单颁布及颁奖典礼主办城市。第六届「亚 洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁奖典礼将于 3 月 27 日 于永利皇宫路氹盛大举行，除了宣布 2018 last dance

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Coast 涛岸

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will reveal the fifty selections for 2018 as well as several special awards.

This evidence of the small territory’s rising prominence among gastronomes shouldn’t be surprising. After all, making good food and eating it have long been an integral part of the Macanese identity, as its colorful history attests.

When the Portuguese arrived in the sixteenth century, they found an attractive peninsula ripe for rapid development into a flourishing trading port. As an enclave of

European culture on the South China Sea, the colony delighted in mingling Portuguese culinary traditions with distinctively Chinese flavors. Far from home, the wives of Portuguese sailors quickly adapted their cooking habits to the ingredients available locally. Trading vessels arriving from overseas brought exotic spices from Malaysia, India, and far-flung places like Africa and South America. The resulting fusion, which would become famous as Macanese cuisine, was unique in the world.

COURTESY OF 8 1/2 OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA

to change a chef ’s destiny overnight. With a voting area covering twenty-six countries, the awards represent the opinions and personal experiences of more than three hundred industry experts from across a vast region.

The prestige extends as well to any city chosen to host the annual announcement of the list. This year, for the first time, the organizers have selected Macau as the site for the announcement ceremonies for both 2018 and 2019. The sixth edition, to take place on March 27 at Wynn Palace Cotai,

DAVID HARTUNG,

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Wing Lei Palace 永利宫

Robuchon au Dôme

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

天巢法国餐厅

年 50 大餐厅名单，也将颁发多个特别奖项。 澳门成为美食界新崛起的势力其实并 不令人意外，用心烹调并享用美食，向来 是澳门文化不可或缺的一环，诚如其多姿 多采的历史背景。葡萄牙人 16 世纪首次踏 足澳门，便发现这个半岛拥有各种丰厚条 件，大有机会发展成繁荣的贸易港口。作 为欧洲文化在中国南海的口岸，葡萄牙餐 饮传统与独特的中式味道在这块殖民地上相 互融合。葡萄牙水手的妻子们离家虽远，但 很快便知如何变通，依据当地食材调整烹调 风格。海外而来的商船带来马来西亚、印度

甚至远自非洲及南美的异国香料，最终演变 成全世界闻名、独一无二的澳门土生菜。 400 年后的 1999 年，澳门正式回归中 国，但多种文化融合带来的影响仍持续发 酵。澳门的多元传统及跨文化特性令人印 象深刻，去年还获联合国教科文组织评选 为全球 26 个「创意城市美食之都」之一。 除了有名的澳门土生菜，澳门也有许 多水准一流的中餐厅，更吃得到在葡萄牙 以外、公认口味最佳的道地葡式料理。「船 屋葡国餐厅」及「安东尼餐厅」等备受本 地人及旅客喜爱，到这些餐厅可一尝马介

休及非洲鸡等高人气葡萄牙菜，大名鼎鼎 的「澳门安德鲁饼店」蛋塔也不容错过， 每 到 周 末 总 能 见 到 长 长 的 排 队 人 龙。 在 2018 年米其林指南摘星的 11 家澳门餐厅， 则是广东菜及其他中式菜系的最佳代表。 澳门不只吃得到传统美食，当地独特 的历史背景正好成为展现新颖烹饪创意风 格的舞台。多年来，澳门追求美食的文化， 加上名声鹊起的观光旅游业，发挥了磁吸 效应，吸引全球知名大厨前来打造创意料 理。法国大厨 Joël Robuchon 是最早注意到 澳门潜力的国际明星大厨之一，如今他主 last dance

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Four hundred years later, in 1999, the land officially reverted to Chinese sovereignty, but the heady mix of influences still prevails. In honor of its many-layered heritage and cross-cultural character, Macau last year was designated a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, a title shared by only twenty-six cities in the world.

In addition to the Macanese fare the city is famous for, there’s a solid selection of standout Chinese restaurants as well as what is widely considered to be the best authentic Portuguese food outside its homeland. Locals and tourists crowd beloved institutions like A Lorcha and António for such Portuguese and Macanese favorites as bacalao (salted cod) and African chicken. They queue around the block every weekend for Lord Stow’s famous Portuguese egg tarts. Eleven of the Macau restaurants awarded stars in the Michelin Guide 2018 represent the city’s best in classic Cantonese and other regional Chinese cuisines.

But the city’s dining scene isn’t only about tradition. Macau’s historical background has perfectly set the stage for a new wave of culinary invention. The city’s long-standing affinity for gastronomic syncretism, combined with its growing reputation as a tourist destination, makes it a magnet for some of the world’s most famous and innovative chefs. Joël Robuchon was one of the first international stars to see the city’s potential, and today, his Robuchon au Dôme at the Grand Lisboa hotel is a revered landmark on the local food scene.

In recent years, Macau has experienced a bumper crop of restaurant openings designed to satisfy increasingly discerning patrons, including Umberto Bombana’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA and TV celebrity chef Graham Elliot’s new California-inspired restaurant, Coast. And Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants has turned the

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This evidence of the small territory’s rising prominence among gastronomes shouldn’t be surprising. After all, making good food and eating it have long been an integral part of the Macanese identity, as its colorful history attests. 如此弹丸之地成为美食界新崛起的势力其实并不 令人意外，用心烹调并享用美食，向来是澳门文 化不可或缺的一环，诚如其多姿多采的历史背景。

spotlight on several perfect examples of Macau’s modern gastronomic experience.

Last year’s list included Jade Dragon, with its sumptuous contemporary take on Cantonese classics, and The Tasting Room, where chef Fabrice Vulin presides over the last word in French cuisine. It also recognized the talents of pastry chef Janice Wong, who opened her extraordinary sweets shop at MGM Cotai early this year, by naming her Asia’s Best Pastry Chef two years in a row.

Tim Brooke-Webb of William Reed Business Media, organizer of the awards, noted in a media conference last year that Macau is still a “well-kept secret” for many. “It’s incumbent on all of us,” he said, “to show the world what’s going on here.”

But with its rising tourist figures, now at more than thirty million visitors a year, and with the newly earned status that comes with hosting the Asia’s 50 Best ceremony, news is spreading fast that in Macau, a great deal is going on indeed.

理的新葡京酒店「天巢法国餐厅」已是澳 门餐饮界备受推崇的重量级美食地标。 近年来澳门餐厅有如雨后春笋般冒出， 以满足饕客的味蕾，像是白松露之王 Umberto Bombana 的「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」及明星主厨 Graham Elliot 的加州主 题新餐厅「涛岸」 。「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」名 单更让人聚焦至多家澳门现代料理餐厅， 去年榜上有名的餐厅有为广东菜加入豪华 现代元素的「誉珑轩」 ，以及因主厨 Fabrice Vulin 不断发扬法式料理而闻名的 「御膳房」 。 名单上也有糕点主厨获肯定，如年初在美 狮美高梅开设甜点专门店的黄慧娴，便连 续两年获选为亚洲最佳糕点厨师。 「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」评选主办单位「威 廉 · 瑞德商业传媒」代表 Tim Brooke-Webb 去年曾于记者会上提及，澳门对许多人来 说仍是「未发掘的秘宝」。他表示 ： 「让世 界知道澳门的最新动态是我们的职责所 在。」目前一年超过 3,000 万人的旅客来澳， 而且旅客人数仍在不断攀升，「亚洲 50 最 佳餐厅」颁奖典礼即举办在即 。在各种利 好条件的加成下，各界预测澳门定将上演 更多各式各样的精彩。

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩

The Tasting Room

DAVID HARTUNG (2), SAM SIN

御膳房

Mizumi 「泓」日本餐厅

PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS

Osmanthus Pigeon 桂花皇子鸽

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珍馐美馔 金榜题名

winning streak

DAVID HARTUNG

Jade Dragon, Macau’s premier fine-dining Cantonese restaurant, continues to garner accolades and acclaim.

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AS ONE AMONG CITY OF DREAMS’ renowned array of signature restaurants, Jade Dragon flies the flag of classic Cantonese cuisine.

Under the attentive eye of chef Tam Kwok Fung, Director of Culinary Operations at City of Dreams, Jade Dragon’s expert team stays true to time-honored cooking techniques that feature the world’s finest and freshest seasonal ingredients.

A stellar success right from its opening, Jade Dragon has received myriad awards, including two Michelin stars, a Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star rating, and its current ranking of thirty-two on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – the highest in Macau. It has also been recognized by any number of Chinese restaurant-rating guides.

Standing behind Jade Dragon’s achievements is chef Tam’s philosophy, a commitment to using only the best natural products to create traditional Cantonese food with a contemporary accent on intensity of flavor.

“We’re proud to showcase our traditional cooking methods,” says Tam. “When ordering our stock, we consider ingredients from all over the world, and we’ve got the flexibility to insist on the finest quality and best flavor.” His favorite to work with? “Like any Cantonese chef, I love cooking with all types of fish, whatever is top quality and in season.

Fish is so versatile – you can make it into soup, stir-fry it in a wok, steam it with tofu, or prepare it very simply with some lightly fried garlic and spring onion.”

Making it onto the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list was a great honor for chef Tam and his team. “Think about how many restaurants there are in Macau and Hong Kong alone,” he says, “not to mention greater

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作为新濠天地旗下知名招牌餐厅之一， 「誉珑轩」靠着经典粤菜打出一片天。新 濠天地厨艺总监谭国锋严格把关，确保 「誉珑轩」的专业厨师团队以最正统的技 术烹调世界最顶级最新鲜的当季食材。 「誉珑轩」从开业至今屡获殊荣，包 括米其林二星及《福布斯旅游指南》五 星评价，并且在「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」排 行榜上位列第 32 名，成为澳门荣耀之最。 中国各个餐厅评比指南也处处可见「誉 珑轩」的踪迹与好评。 谭主厨的哲学是餐厅荣耀背后的最 大功臣，他坚持只用最好的天然食材， 料理出一道道富有现代风味又不失粤菜 传统丰富口味的佳肴。 谭主厨表示 ： 「我很骄傲能向各位展 示我们的传统烹饪技术。在采购食材时， 世界各国的产品都在我们的考虑范围之 内，我们有很大的自由度可精挑细选出 最优质的山珍海味。」问及最偏好的食材 时，谭主厨回答： 「和其他粤菜师傅一样， 我也最爱烹调鱼类，不过得要品质高又 当季的才行。鱼类菜式千变万化，既可 做成鱼汤，又可放进锅中翻炒，可与豆 腐一起清蒸，或只是简单地搭配爆香过 的蒜与鲜脆的青葱。」 对于谭主厨及其团队而言，餐厅入 选「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」是莫大的荣幸。 他说道 ： 「光是澳门和香港就有无数好 餐厅，更别说幅员辽阔的大中华地区与 其他亚洲国家。因此，进入这个排行榜 不只是对我们厨艺的赞赏，也肯定了我 们对每一位宾客的服务是多么出色和可 靠。」 生煎花胶、布列塔尼龙虾煲、果木 烧肉、烤乳鸽，还有琳琅满目的美味粤 式点心，每一道卓越的菜式，都是「誉 珑轩」获奖之路上的功臣。然而，光靠 这些招牌美食还不足以让宾客变成「回 头 客 」。 谭 主 厨 说 ： 「即使是最简单的

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Turnip and Iberico Ham Pastry, Crab Meat Rice Paper Roll 金腿萝卜丝酥, 威化蟹肉卷

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Roasted Brittany Lobster with Crystal Noodles and Coriander Served in Clay Pot

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香菜龙虾银丝煲

China and the rest of Asia. The recognition isn’t just for excellence in cooking, but also for outstanding and consistent service to every diner at every meal.”

Many of the restaurant’s standout dishes have helped propel Jade Dragon on its award-winning trajectory: sizzling fish maw, braised Brittany lobster, lycheewood-roasted barbecue meats, roasted baby pigeon, and, of course, its symphony of delectable dim sum. But it’s not just these signatures that keep diners coming back. “Even a basic dish, if you do it well, can be a favorite,” says Tam. A perfect example is Jade Dragon’s fried rice, made with homemade XO chili sauce, fresh seafood, and roasted goose.

Macau, which was named a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in 2017 and

which more recently played host for the first time to the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony, has secured its place as a global gastronomic destination. “About a decade ago, to the outside world, Macau was just a little fishing village with a handful of small casinos,” says Tam. “Now people want to visit and see what’s happening and eat at its world-class restaurants.

Hosting the awards ceremony has really drawn attention to Macau and highlighted all the amazing talent we have.”

Does the avalanche of awards and recognition put extra pressure on the man at the top? “It’s not any kind of pressure that drives me,” he says. “Passion and a deep love for food – that’s my motivation.

If you love what you’re doing, there’s no pressure.”

一道菜，只要用心做，都可能成为宾客的 最爱。」用自家制的 XO 辣酱配上新鲜海 产与烧鹅的誉珑轩招牌炒饭就是很好的例 子。 2017 年，澳门获联合国教科文组织评 定为创意城市美食之都，最近更首次成为 「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁奖典礼的主办城市， 使其享誉国际的美食龙头地位更加巩固。 谭主厨说明 ： 「十多年前，在国际上，澳 门只是个零星散布着几家赌场的小渔村。 现在全球的人都想来澳门看看，在这里的 世界级餐厅品尝美馔。藉由颁奖典礼主办 城市的广告效应，澳门的美食天赋展现在 大家眼前，转眼间成为了世界的焦点。」 对于蜂拥而至的奖项与认可，是否会 让压力倍增？主厨回答 ： 「压力从来就不会 成为我的动力，对烹饪的热情还有对食物 的热爱才是我的最大动机。如果你爱你的 工作，面对任何压力都能处之泰然。」 last dance

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星级名厨阵容 极致美食体验

league of extraordinary chefs Macau, which was recently designated a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, already has a truly impressive fine-dining scene. Now, with the addition of four exceptional new restaurants, MGM Cotai is enhancing that reputation by celebrated culinary masters that will further advance Macau’s status as a global dining destination. § 最近获联合国教科文组织

（UNESCO）评选为「创意城市美食之 都」的澳门，餐饮业发展蓬勃，早已是各 地饕客向往的必访之地。美狮美高梅四家 由名厨打理的新餐厅将为澳门带来创新的 餐饮理念，进一步提升澳门在全球各地食 客心中的地位，开拓崭新视野。

Grill 58

Chef Mauro Colagreco 美狮美高梅 • 盛焰

OVERSEEING GRILL 58 is Mauro Colagreco, whose restaurant Mirazur on the French Riviera holds two Michelin stars and is ranked number four on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017. A destination well known to connoisseurs of fine food and wine, Grill 58 is considered

the place to go for extraordinary meats sourced by MGM’s master butcher from top ranchers around the world.

Grill 58 offers guests a fusion of cultures and cooking styles, from Western grilling over wood embers to Asian-style teppanyaki.

Chef Colagreco is known for dishes driven by premium-quality fresh ingredients and executed with a distinctive Mediterranean flair. Local sourcing, especially of its fresh seafood, is at the top of his priority list. “It’s always important,” he says, “to use products that are exceptional and authentic.”

Grill 58’s preferred cuts of beef are dry-aged in a custom-built Himalayan-salt aging room and expertly prepared to each guest’s tastes. A wide range of other selectmeats is offered, along with the freshest of wild-caught fish and seafood. An extensive wine and sake list provides the perfect accompaniment to make any meal at Grill 58 a memorable occasion.

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蜚声国际的名厨 Mauro Colagreco 旗下餐厅 「Mirazur」获奖无数，荣获米其林二星荣誉， 以及在 2017 年「全球 50 佳餐厅」排行榜中 位列第四。现在 Mauro 与美高梅合作，主理 ，精心料理各种来自世界各 「盛焰 (Grill 58)」 地的顶级肉品，将会成为老饕和美酒鉴赏家 用餐的不二之选。 「盛焰」为客人提供融合了各种文化和风 格的烹饪手法，包括西式木烬烧烤和亚洲铁 板烧。

Mauro 以他用优质新鲜食材炮制的菜肴 而闻名，诠释独特的地中海风情。采购本地 食材是他的首要任务－尤其是新鲜海鲜。他 表示 ： 「使用特别和正宗的材料真的很重要。 」 「盛焰」的顶级牛肉都陈放在由喜马拉雅 盐砖打造的熟成室，让牛肉的风味沉淀至客 人期待的口味。除牛肉以外， 「盛焰」亦提供 其他精选肉类，以及最新鲜的野生鱼类和海 鲜。加上精选的丰富葡萄酒和清酒清单，让 客人在「盛焰」享用的每一餐都成为难忘的 回忆。

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bringing innovative dining concepts and

THE DELIC ACY and refinement of Japanese techniques and the exotic flavors of Peruvian ingredients make for a sublime culinary match at Aji, Macau’s first restaurant to showcase the unique cuisine known as Nikkei.

Aji is overseen by Peruvian star chef Mitsuharu Tsumura, one of the world’s most highly acclaimed Nikkei masters. His restaurant Maido in Lima was ranked first among

Aji

Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura 美狮美高梅 • 雅吉

Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 and number eight on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017.

Deeply grounded in culinary history and gradually introduced in the nineteenth century, Nikkei cuisine is now an established part of Peru’s eating culture and something that Chef Tsumura is excited to share with Macau.

“There’s a story,” he says, “that chili peppers were, in fact, introduced to Asia from Macau by the Portuguese. The name of our restaurant, Aji, means taste in Japanese and chili pepper in Spanish. We’re blending our spiciness with Macau’s local ingredients.”

The restaurant is a seamless blend of fine and casual dining. “I want guests to feel at home,” says the chef. “Nikkei cuisine is part of my essence, my nature. When you do something natural and authentic, it’s always going to be good.” 在澳门第一家日式秘鲁菜 (Nikkei cuisine) 餐厅 ，日本料理的精致细腻和秘鲁特色 「雅吉 (Aji)」 的异国风味揉合，成就一幕幕壮观独特的美食 盛宴。 「雅吉」由知名日裔秘鲁籍知名大厨津村光 晴主理， 他在利马的「Maido」餐厅于 2017 年「拉 丁美洲 50 大最佳餐厅」排行榜中夺冠，在「全 球 50 家最佳餐厅」排行榜中名列第八，成绩骄 人。 日式秘鲁菜历史悠久，在十九世纪逐渐受 人注目，现已成为秘鲁饮食文化的一部分。大 厨很高兴可以把日式秘鲁菜带来澳门 ： 「传说辣 椒是由葡萄牙人从澳门引入亚洲的。我们的餐 厅名字『雅吉』在西班牙文中意为『辣椒』 ，在 日语中则解作『味道』 。我希望把这菜系的香浓 与澳门本地的食材结合在一起。 」 「我 「雅吉」是精致和休闲餐饮的完美融合。 希望客人有宾至如归的感觉。 」大厨说。 「日式 秘鲁菜是我炮制美食的精髓，也是我的本质。 当你自然、真实地做一件事时，效果总会不错。 」 LAST DANCE | TK |

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Coast

Chef Graham Elliot 美狮美高梅 • 濤岸

TAKING INSPIRATION from America’s relaxed West Coast lifestyle and featuring the contemporary cuisine of awardwinning chef Graham Elliot , Coast creates dishes that capture the spirit and flavors of California and brings them to Macau.

Coast is the first project outside the US for the former MasterChef judge. “I chose Macau,” explains Chef Elliot, “because it’s the hotbed of cuisine right now,” he says. “There are so many different things happening, it’s a place that’s really going to give me the opportunity to showcase my style.

“So many chefs are coming here now and doing new things. For me, Coast is just adding to that. I don’t want to come in and break the mold and take over, I just want to complement what’s already going on, be inspired by others, and put that into the restaurant for the guest experience.”

Family and friends can gather to share specialty pizza, fresh baked breads, salads, grilled meats, and other comfort foods for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

“When guests leave Coast, I want them to think the meal was great and the service was great – but most important, I want them to feel that they want to come back.”

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屡获殊荣的名厨 Graham Elliot 以美国西海岸悠闲的生活方式为灵感，创作一系列当代美食，把 。 加州热情的精神和味道带到澳门「濤岸 (Coast)」 ，作为他在美国 曾任综艺节目《MasterChef》评审的 Graham，选择了在澳门开设「濤岸」 「澳门现在可说是美食的『温床』 ，发展一日千里，这是一个 以外的首个美食据点。 主厨解释 ： 让我有机会展示自己风格的地方。 」 「很多厨师现在都来澳门作新尝试。对我而言， 『濤岸』只是其中一个挑战。我并不打算打 」 破这现状或接管什么，我只想让这里的美食蓝图更丰富，与其他人相互启发，让客人体验更多。 餐厅环境轻松自在，可让亲朋好友在早餐、午餐或晚餐时段分享薄饼、新鲜烤制的面包、 沙拉、烤肉和其他人气料理。 「我希望给客人留下菜式和服务都很好的印象，但最重要的是，我希望他们会想再回来『濤 岸』用餐。 」

SINGAP OREAN DESSERT MAESTRO Janice Wong, who was named Asia’s Best Pastry Chef for 2013 and 2014 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and Pastry Chef of the Year in 2011, 2013, and 2015 by World Gourmet Summit, has realized her confectionery dream in Janice Wong MGM. Adding its irresistible appeal to the MGM COTAI lineup, Janice Wong MGM is the ultimate modern pastry shop, offering a fullon sweets experience. Guests choose from an extravaganza of homemade Italian gelato, dainty pastries and tarts, sublime cakes and eclairs, an amazing array of handmade chocolates, gorgeously plated desserts, and artisanal coffees and teas. The delectable delicacies can be taken away or enjoyed on the terrace, immersed in the multi-sensory experience of the Spectacle.

“MGM’s vision and our vision have a lot of synergy,” she says. “Theirs is very forward thinking, and that’s exactly what the Janice Wong brand brings to a new market like Macau.”

Alongside its live chocolate, crepe, and dessert stations, Janice Wong MGM features rivers of dark, milk, and white chocolate flowing from an over seven-meter-high sculptural fountain, one of the largest of its kind in the world. “Chocolate,” notes Chef Wong, “is definitely my favorite ingredient to work with.”

Janice Wong MGM Chef Janice Wong 黄慧娴

美獅美高梅・Janice Wong MGM

新 加 坡 甜 点 大 师 黄 慧 娴 ( Janice Wong) 于 2011、

2013 和 2015 年获选为年度世界名厨峰会最佳甜点 师，并名列 2013 和 2014 亚洲 50 佳「亚洲最佳甜 品师」名单。今年她把她的甜点美梦带到「Janice

Wong MGM」，为美狮美高梅增添不可抗拒的魅力。 作 为 一 家 充 满 现 代 元 素 的 甜 点 店， 「Janice Wong MGM」提供全方位甜食体验 ：客人可以选 择自家制的意大利冰淇淋、各式精致糕点和挞点、 美味蛋糕和闪电泡芙、精美的手工巧克力、华丽甜 点，以及手工咖啡和茶。滋味甜点可以外带或在视 博广场上享用，享受多维度的感官体验。 主厨说 ： 「美高梅的愿景和我们的愿景互相 加乘。他们的想法很有前瞻性，这正正是 Janice

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Wong 品牌想为澳门带来的元素。」 除了现做巧克力、可丽饼和点心站外， 「Janice Wong MGM」还拥有其中一座全球最大的雕塑喷 泉，逾七米高的巧克力喷泉流出香浓的黑、白和牛 奶巧克力，为餐厅更添梦幻甜美。主厨道 ： 「巧克 力绝对是我最喜欢的原料。 」 last dance

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臻至完美

excellence every day The executive chef of The 8 explains what it takes to keep a three-Michelin-star restaurant on top.

“EXCELLING as a professional chef is all 「身为专业厨师，持续进步的关键在于是否 about using your heart,” says Joseph Tse, 用心。」，这句话是澳门新葡京酒店「8 餐 whose fervent approach has driven The 8 at 厅 (The 8)」行政总厨谢锦松师傅的座右铭， the Grand Lisboa Hotel – and its chef – to 也正是这种进取的精神让餐厅以及掌舵的 well-earned recognition at the heights of the 大厨能攀至餐饮界高点，备受推崇。 culinary world. 出身香港的谢师傅曾于全球多个五星 Before taking the helm of the acclaimed 酒店工作。2015 年，他受邀坐镇中餐厅「8 Chinese restaurant in 2015, Tse had worked 餐厅」。早在 60 年代，少年谢师傅便踏入 at five-star hotels across the globe. 当地餐饮业，一直以来能有动 He started in the industry as a 力不断追求卓越，正如他所言， BY teenager in his native Hong Kong 靠的就是「心中的那把火」。他 ANDREA LO in the 1960s, and it was what he 认为 ： 「没有热忱的话，即使坐 describes as the “fire within him” 拥全世界最好的食材，仍无法 PHOTOGRAPHY BY that always kept him striving for 做出一手好菜。」 DAVID HARTUNG the best. “If you don’t have that 2018 年，「8 餐厅」连续第 inner passion, you’ll never create 5 年获米其林三星荣誉，这与谢 a great dish, even with the best ingredients 师傅个人投注的心力有密切关系。一道菜 in the world.” 从构思到能登上餐厅菜单，他平均需耗时 In 2018, The 8 was awarded three 三个月。然而，他将餐厅的成就归功于团 Michelin stars for the fifth year in a row. 队合作以及全体员工娴熟的烹饪技术。他 And while Tse’s personal dedication in the 表示 ： 「营造和谐的气氛相当重要，付出有 kitchen is apparent (it takes an average of 多少，收获就有多少。」 three months for each of his dishes to go 他强调，在烹调菜肴前，厨师要彻底 from concept to an honored place on the 理解所有备用的食材。他说 ： 「对于每个烹 menu), he attributes the restaurant’s success 调程序也都要了若指掌。」就算只是如干炒 to teamwork and to the seasoned culinary 牛河这样的简单菜式，谢师傅也会在烹调 skills of the entire staff. “Having a harmoni过程中运用他对食材及技巧的深刻理解。 ous atmosphere is important,” he says. “You 「锅气」是广东菜烹调重要元素之一， receive what you give.” 也是正是这道菜的灵魂所在 ：利用大锅翻 He believes that even before the 炒的热度让层次繁复的烟烧味及气韵依附

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Joseph Tse 谢锦松

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Crab claw and steamed egg whites with fish broth 鱼汤蛋白蒸鲜蟹钳 This plate, says Tse, draws inspiration from a traditional dessert: “We’ve taken a very simple egg white dish to the next level.” The whites are gently steamed and then combined with fish broth to produce a firm-textured savory pudding.

“During the steaming process, the temperature has to be right,” explains the chef. “Otherwise, bubbles will appear that mar the presentation.”

The largest crab claws available – sourced from China, Thailand, Sri Lanka, or Vietnam, depending on the season – are selected and placed atop the pudding. Tse’s concept is to create a homey offering that uses top-tier ingredients. 谢师傅表示，这道菜灵感来自传统的点心 ： 「我们 让一道再简单不过的蛋白料理更上一层楼。 」先慢 火蒸蛋白，然后加入鱼高汤混和，做成美味的鱼 汤蛋白。他详细说明 ： 「蒸蛋全程温度都要确实掌 握，否则表面出现泡泡不好看就不能上桌了。 」蟹 钳选用当季最大的品种，货源来自中国、泰国、 斯里兰卡或越南各地，依季节有所不同，精挑细 选后置于蒸蛋上便大功告成。背后的概念为运用 顶级食材，打造平易近人的家常菜式。

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inception of a dish, a chef needs to be thoroughly familiar with every single ingredient he’ll be working with. “And you have to understand every culinary process,” he says. It’s only necessary to observe how he constructs a simple offering like beef with fried noodles to grasp the depth of Tse’s knowledge of both ingredients and techniques.

The dish relies on a Cantonese culinary essential known as wok hei (often translated as “breath of the wok”), which refers to the distinctive complex smoky flavor and aroma imparted to the food by the searing heat of the wok. A chef, says Tse, needs to know how to expertly monitor the heat to prevent scorching.

Moreover, adding soy sauce to the dish too early will yield an unappealing aroma; the noodles, if not fried sufficiently, will end up too chewy; the slightest overcooking of the beef will toughen it; and the bean sprouts will not retain their peak crispness if added to the wok even a little too early.

“The dish looks so simple,” says Tse, “but it’s not something that can be learned in one or two attempts. A great deal of practice and experience is required to make it perfectly.”

Tse also credits Macau’s remarkable development as a dining destination over the last few decades as a factor

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contributing to the success of a restaurant as sophisticated as The 8. “In the late 1960s, Cantonese dining was very traditional,” he says. “Not many varieties of seafood were being used, and cooking was relatively conservative.” Advancements in speedy supply methods and access to worldwide sourcing have made a big difference, as has the fact that diners’ palates have become more discerning and their tastes more cosmopolitan. “Now, the very best ingredients are brought to Macau,” says Tse, “and diners have come to expect interesting food served flawlessly in an elegant setting.”

The 8 sees an international crowd, many from China, from the local area, and the remainder from neighbouring countries. “When guests are looking for a special place to dine,” says Tse, “they want somewhere with a history and a name.”

The chef is concerned, above all, with creating a memorable experience for diners. “I always say hello to each one of our guests, and we incorporate their comments into the planning and execution of our menus. A restaurant’s reputation isn’t something that can be built in a day – it takes time and continuing appreciation from diners. That’s why we make sure that we’re completely happy with every dish before we present it to our guests.”

Deep-fried chicken in “pei pa” style with crystal blue shrimp mousse 脆皮蓝天使虾百花琵琶鸡 The traditional southern Chinese pei pa (flat-roasted) chicken is given a modern spin. With bones removed, the meat is marinated in diluted vinegar and cooked in an oven until crispy. Pieces of shrimp mousse are first fried and then cut into the same shapes as the chicken pieces and placed beneath the chicken. Leaf flowers garnish the dish. The premium crystal blue shrimp used is sourced from New Caledonia. Requiring forty-five minutes for the entire cooking process, the dish is in limited supply each day. 传统华南菜琵琶 ( 酥烤 ) 鸡重新改良， 加入现代元素。去骨鸡肉先浸稀释醋腌 过后放入烤箱，烤至酥脆。虾慕斯煎炸 过后，切成与鸡肉同等形状，放在鸡肉 下方，再放上些许雕叶花点缀。顶级蓝 天使虾由新喀里多尼亚进口，如纽西兰 及马达加斯加等地直送澳门。这道菜制 作费时，需时 45 分钟，每天限量供应。

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于食材之上。谢师傅提醒，厨师需精准掌 控火候，才不至烧焦 ；酱油加得太早，会 跑出难闻的气味 ；若河粉没炸好，口感会 太韧 ；牛肉稍稍煮过头就会变老 ；豆芽菜 则是不要过早放进炒锅，即便只是稍微早 一点下锅，就会使最佳脆度流失。他表示 ： 「这道菜看似简单，却绝非试个一两次就掌 握，需要大量练习及经验才能做到完美。」 同时，他提到澳门餐饮业近几十年来 发展成就瞩目，所以像「8 餐厅」等精致 餐厅方能在业界取得一席之地。 他说 ： 「60 年代末，广东菜以传统作法为主，使用的 海鲜种类不多，烹调方式也相对保守。」然 而，随着供货速度大幅提升，加上取得全 球食材越趋便利，业界出现巨大转变。与 此同时，饕客的嘴也变得越来越挑，还可 接受更国际化的口味。他说 ： 「现在各式一 流的食材皆可直送澳门。客人亦期待在雅 致的环境下，享用无可挑剔、饶富趣味的 美食。」 「8 餐厅」客群相当国际化 ：主要来自 中国，以及本地客户，还有从周边地区及 西方国家寻香而来的饕客。谢师傅分析： 「想 找个特别地方用餐的客人，看准的不外乎 餐厅历史及名气两大因素。」 不过说到底，他最关心的仍是如何为 客人打造难忘的用餐体验。他说 ： 「我习惯 和每一位客人都打招呼，将客人的意见作 为菜式设计及实际作业的参考。累积餐厅 名声非一蹴可几，需要花时间经营，也需 要不断赢取客人的赏识。这也就是为什么 我们每道菜都要做到尽善尽美，才会端上 桌给客人享用。」

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Chicken broth with fish delicate and bean curd in chrysanthemum shape 菊花鱼圆 Featuring pieces of finely chopped tofu served in chicken broth, this dish mimics the appearance of a chrysanthemum in bloom.

The tofu pieces are cut a minimum of a hundred and five times in just over three and a half minutes. “If your knife work isn’t up to par, the tofu will fall apart very easily,” says Tse. ”It has to be so thin that it’s little more than the width of a strand of hair.” The hearty broth also includes pieces of fish – “very smooth in texture” – served in a rounded shape. Matsutake mushrooms add aroma. 切块工整的豆腐仔细摆入鸡汤之内，这道菜 的造型犹如一朵盛开的菊花。只需 3 分半钟， 豆腐块每面就至少要被切上 105 刀。谢师傅 表示 ： 「刀工不够好，豆腐很容易四分五落， 要切到薄到不能再薄，比发丝厚一点点。 」 营养暖胃的高汤里还有「入口即化」的手打 鱼丸，最后加上松茸，更添扑鼻的香气。

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tapas in taipa Just a few minutes’ walk from the Cotai Strip, historic ambience and authentic flavors await at Tapas de Portugal.

TUCKED AWAY IN THE quaint and culturally rich district of Taipa Village, Tapas de Portugal is the latest culinary venture of Portuguese native António Coelho, the celebrated head chef of renowned, Michelin-recommended restaurant António.

Tapas de Portugal may look diminutive from the outside, but the dining spaces are actually spread over three inviting levels. On the cozy ground floor, guests can enjoy drinks and tapas at the colorful Mediterranean-tiled bar or at one of the small tables nearby. The Tapas Floor above is a warm and intimate space with red and yellow walls, soft lighting, and a dramatic ceiling mural. Diners who prefer taking their tapas with a view can relax

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at The Verandah on the topmost floor, either sheltered inside or at one of the high tables overlooking the always-active street scene of Taipa Village.

Drawing inspiration from the famous signature dishes of restaurant António, Tapas de Portugal offers a select and more casual array of authentically Portuguese tapas, salads, snacks, and sandwiches, as well as fresh seafood, premium meats, and an exclusive collection of main dishes to round out the beautifully coordinated menu.

Chef de Cuisine Ricardo Alves was handpicked by António to head the restaurant.

They designed the menu together, and they

collaborate on tweaking it seasonally. “I like to think we have a father-son relationship,” says Ricardo. “António has given me the freedom to find my own path, but even when he doesn’t ask, I always take a new dish to him to try first.”

In every offering, from the pata negra croquettes to the gin-and-beet-cured salmon with house made aioli, the top-quality ingredients that Tapas de Portugal insists upon are expertly showcased. And while Ricardo understands the modern pull to diversify the menu a bit and the need to create an appropriate Macanese balance between Portuguese and Asian flavors, he also sees the importance of staying true to his culinary heritage.

“Our dishes are basically rustic and traditional,” he says. “Portuguese cuisine needs to remain authentic and untouched, like the food the people have always made at home.

You can plate things in a fancier way, but, ultimately, the true flavors of Portugal really need to shine.”

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

葡韵葡味

PRESENTED BY TAIPA VILLAGE MACAU

← Roasted Suckling Pig with Homemade Potato Chips and Mixed Salad 葡式烤乳猪 (伴薯仔沙律) ↓ Salmon Cured in Bombay Gin and Beetroot Tartare 三文鱼塔塔 , 配孟买松子酒和甜菜根

知名葡萄牙大厨 António Coelho 是米其林 推荐餐厅「安东尼 (António)」的主厨。「葡 薏园 (Tapas de Portugal)」隐于古朴而又颇 具文化特色的 氹 仔旧城区内。在这旧城的 巷弄之间，António 开始了一段在烹饪世界 的新征程。 餐厅外观乍看不大，但用餐空间延伸三 个楼层，相当宽敞。来到布置舒适的首层， 客人可选择在色彩缤纷的地中海磁砖吧台， 或一旁小巧的餐桌享用饮品及小菜。二楼的 「Tapas Floor」红黄墙面交错，搭配柔和光 线及极具戏剧效果的天花板壁画，气氛温馨 亲昵。想搭配夜景品尝小菜的客人也可以到 「The Verandah」顶楼露台，看是选择内部座 位区享受私人时光，或坐在高脚桌旁，将氹 仔旧城的繁忙街景尽收眼底。 「葡薏园」的餐点承袭「安东尼」招牌 料理的特色，风格较为随性，提供正宗葡式 小菜、沙拉、小食、三明治、新鲜海鲜以及 顶级肉类料理，还有多道独家主菜，菜式丰 富多元、应有尽有。 Ricardo Alves 是 António 为餐厅钦点的 行政主厨，两人合作无间，共同设计餐厅菜 单，也随季节变化研发时令菜式。Ricardo 表

示两人的关系形同父子 ： 「他给我很大的自 由度，让我探寻自己想走的路。很多时侯他 不用开口，我就又奉上新菜式请他品评了。 」 「葡薏园」的每一道料理，从伊比利亚 火腿炸肉饼到琴酒甜菜根腌鲑鱼佐自家制蒜 泥蛋黄酱，都坚持以最高品质的食材打造， 完美呈现专家级的手艺。Ricardo 深知需要适

时加入现代元素让菜式更加多元，亦明白在 自家澳门料理中追求葡国菜及亚洲风味之间 的最佳平衡，同时他也不忘忠于葡国菜的传 统。他强调 ： 「我们的料理草根又传统，葡 国菜就应保有原本的道地风味，就像在家里 吃到的一样。摆盘可以华丽，但最终仍应忠 于原味，让正宗的葡式风味担任主角。 」 last dance

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绿岛羊群

green sheep The Emerald Isle guards the sustainability of its natural grasslands.

WITH FULLY 80 PERCENT of Ireland’s agricultural land devoted to grasslands, free-grazing cows and sheep are to be found everywhere.

Family-owned farms prevail throughout the country, and John Earle’s is an example of the best of them.

He and his family live on eighty acres in the north of County Wexford with three hundred free-ranging sheep. A mixture of Texel, Suffolk, and Charollais ewes along with Suffolk and Texel rams roam the farm’s wideopen expanse, feeding freely on the lush crop of natural grasses. Earle, as the sixth generation of his family to occupy the homestead, has been farming his whole life by these traditional, tried-and-true livestock methods.

Climate, of course, also has an enormous

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influence on farming, and Ireland’s moderate climatic conditions create a highly favorable agricultural environment. With the tempering effects of the Gulf Stream making Ireland much warmer than other countries that share its latitude, it’s rare to experience extreme weather, and plentiful rainfall provides the abundant water needed for grasses to thrive.

It makes the pastures of Ireland so famously green that sheep and cattle feast luxuriously on some of the world’s highest-quality grasses.

But the ongoing conservation of this precious national legacy is by no means taken for granted by the agricultural community. The Irish food board, Bord Bia, has taken the initiative by launching its Origin Green program to help farmers improve the

sustainability of Irish agriculture and develop better ways to preserve the environmental benefits of grasslands and farms. As part of the program, extensive data on carbon and water footprints is recorded and analyzed to help reduce farm waste, enhance efficiency, and make sure that Ireland’s future will be greener than ever.

We wish to thank Bord Bia for graciously arranging TK’s visit to Ireland for the purpose of researching and preparing this feature.

Bord Bia is dedicated to bringing the distinctive flavors of Ireland to tables throughout the world by assisting in the sustainable development of Irish agriculture and by promoting Irish food and drink in the global marketplace.

JOHN SEK (2)

TRAVEL

爱尔兰的农业用地有整整八成都是草场， 因此自由放牧的牛羊随处可见。国家各处 遍布许多家族经营的农场，John Earle 的 农场便是箇中翘楚。 John Earle 一 家 住 在 韦 克 斯 福 德 郡 （County Wexford）北方一片 80 英亩的土 地上，并拥有 300 头在其上自由放牧的绵 羊，其中包括特克赛尔（Texel）、萨福克 （Suffolk）、 夏 洛 莱（Charollais） 母 绵 羊， 以及特克赛尔（Texel）和萨福克（Suffolk） 公绵羊。羊群在广阔开放的农场自在游荡， 在绿意盎然的草场上尽情享用清新的天然 青草。John 已是家族的第六代农场主人， 一辈子都以这些经过实际验证的传统方式 畜牧。 先天的气候条件也对畜牧有巨大的 影 响， 爱 尔 兰 温 和 的 气 候 大 大 有 利 于 当

Free-ranging sheep graze on Ireland’s luxuriant grasses. 在爱尔兰繁茂的草地上自由放养的绵羊。

地 的 畜 牧 业。 墨 西 哥 湾 暖 流 的 气 温 平 衡 作 用， 也 让 爱 尔 兰 比 同 纬 度 地 区 温 暖 许 多， 极 少 出 现 极 端 天 气 状 况， 而 丰 沛 的 雨 量 也 让 青 草 得 以 茁 壮 生 长。 综 合 上 述 得 天 独 厚 的 条 件， 爱 尔 兰 的 绿 茵 草 原 名 闻 遐 迩， 牛 羊 得 以 恣 意 享 用 世 界 最 高 品 质的青草盛宴。 虽有丰富的天然资源，爱尔兰的畜牧 社群却不敢忽略保护珍贵国家资产的工作。 爱尔兰食品委员会 (Irish Food Board) 主动 出 击， 推 行「 源 于 绿 色 (Origin Green)」 项目，帮助农场主人加强永续发展，并寻

找更好的方式延续草场和农场对环境的好 处。除此之外，这项计画也广为记录碳足迹、 水足迹的资料，分析后有助于减少农场废 弃物、增加效率，以确保爱尔兰永远都是 名符其实的翡翠岛国。

感 谢 Bord Bia 精 心 安 排 TK 团 队 走 访 爱 尔兰，为此专题进行采访。 Bord Bia 致 力 于 维 护 爱 尔 兰 农 业 的 可持续发展及在环球市场推广爱尔兰食 品 和 饮 品， 务 求 把 爱 尔 兰 的 独 特 风 味 送 到世界各地的餐桌上。 last dance

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BARTENDER’S TALK

良「琴」摘金

the gin win

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A Macau bar manager tells how – against his own expectations – he took the top trophy at the Beefeater MIXLDN 7 Global Bartender Competition.

MY NAME IS MAXIM SCHULTE and I’m Bar Manager at The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge in Macau. Last year, we learned from one of our suppliers that a regional Beefeater Gin cocktail competition was to be held in Hong Kong. Beefeater is our house pouring gin, and we already had some cocktails on the menu that use it. We decided to take a chance and submit two of our best-selling drinks, not dreaming that either would be chosen. They weren’t, we thought, competition drinks at all – they were put on the menu to fill a market demand.

One of them, Stack of Fortune, is a drink I came up with because we were making too many mojitos. Nothing wrong with a good mojito, but I really wanted to serve our own Signature Cocktails. We’re known as a gincentric bar and I wanted to make something along the lines of a mojito but based on gin.

Soon after the drink was born, it made the top-seller list.

Getting the invitation to participate with fifteen other bartenders in the Hong Kong / Macau final was a huge surprise. I’d almost lost track of how long it had been since I’d submitted the drink, and I thought they’d moved on without us.

I’d never participated in a competition before, and it was a great experience. But I didn’t think I could win in Hong Kong, especially after seeing what the other bartenders had prepared – pairing food, handmade

我叫 Maxim Schulte，目前在澳门的「丽思 酒廊」担任酒吧经理一职。去年，我们从 一位供应商口中得知，有一场 Beefeater 琴 酒调酒的区域赛在香港举行。正巧 Beefeater 琴酒是我们酒廊内的招牌酒，菜单上 已有不少调酒是用这款琴酒做基酒的，因 此我们决定以本店最畅销的两款调酒报名 参赛，当时并不抱太大期望。我们认为这 两款酒是为了迎合市场需求而设，不属于 比赛型调酒。 其中一款参赛调酒叫做「Stack of Fortune」，当初我们酒吧以调配莫吉托酒为主， 这款参赛调酒是为了变出一些新花样才诞 生的。并不是说莫吉托酒不好，只是我真 的很想酒廊能供应自创的招牌调酒。作为 一家特色琴酒酒廊，我希望跳脱出莫吉托 酒的主线，但调配出依然以琴酒为基酒的 饮品。结果这款调酒一登上菜单，马上在 酒廊热销榜上占据一席之地。 后来我收到港澳区的决赛邀请，意味 着我将与另外 15 位调酒师同台较劲，这是 个莫大的惊喜。我几乎忘了是什么时候报 名的了，也以为我们根本没有入围。 对一个比赛新人来说，这是很棒的经 验。然而，我从没想过我能在香港赛区脱 颖而出，尤其是在目睹其他调酒师为了增 强调酒的整体故事性，精心准备配酒佳肴 与手作美食之后，更是如此。作为第二位 上台调酒并接受评审评分的参赛者，我当 时就认为我没什么机会，只当作是享受一 下上台的感觉而已。 我 真 的 非 常 荣 幸 能 见 到 Desmond Payne 还有其他评审。我如实地表达我没有

Antibes Gimlet

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Land of Punt

goodies to back up the stories behind their drinks, and so on. I was the second one to mix my drink and present it to the judges, and by that time, I was already thinking that this wasn’t going to work out for me, so let’s just enjoy the ride.

Meeting Desmond Payne and the other judges was a great pleasure. With all honesty, I told them I hadn’t created the drink

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for the competition and hadn’t brought complementing snacks or decorations. I was presenting the drink as I would serve it in my bar.

I had plenty of time to observe the other bartenders. There were a lot of great drinks and talent around that day, which made my hopes disappear entirely. By the time the final announcement was imminent, I was

ready to start planning my evening in Hong Kong. You can imagine how surprised I was to carry away the trophy that day.

When it came time for the world final in London, I was happy to be there again, visiting all the bars I’ve read about and being part of such a great event, but I wasn’t expecting much, to be honest.

The Beefeater team had put together a

DAVID HARTUNG

BARTENDER’S TALK

program that was truly outstanding. It was a weird feeling at first, being with all these bartenders in one room. We were all competing for the same thing, but, luckily, there isn’t much rivalry in our industry. Getting to know these amazing people from all around the world was one of the best things about the competition.

It was all still super-relaxed and fun

on the second day when the challenges started, but the first one was the toughest for me. It was sort of a market challenge where everyone was given a fixed set of products and put in front of three judges.

They were expecting me to make something with no juice, citrus, or fruit. This destroyed all the ideas I had and put me in a corner. I tried to get out with a martini-style drink using herbs and bergamot.

I didn’t like my drink at all and was upset with my performance. But this “failure” (as I thought) actually freed my mind and let me enjoy the remaining days without pressure. I felt a miracle would have to happen to get me through to the end.

The day with the three final challenges arrived. The picture-taking and my signature cocktail entry went smoothly. The judges were impressive. Simon Difford and Mr Lyan were new faces to me. I knew of them but had never met them – a bit intimidating.

A secret food-pairing challenge emphasizing sustainability and low waste came last. I was fortunate enough to use one of my techniques from the bar and was very happy with the result, and I think the judges were too. It was great to end on a high note, but I was sure I hadn’t made it into the top eight because of my first challenge.

The final day came and it was announcement time. One, two, three … seven bartenders were called up to the stage with only one spot left. I thought to myself that I’d been right – I wouldn’t make it because of that dreadful first day. Then they announced Hong Kong / Macau, and I was just able to make it to the stage.

Everything happened quickly after that. We had to prep immediately for the three hundred fifty people who’d be trying our signature drinks. A break for dinner was the first time that day I could calm down. I remember sitting at the table and thinking, “I really want this now, I’m so close and I actually have a chance.” From

特别准备比赛用的新调酒，也没有打点 佐酒的餐点与装饰，只是照着在酒廊的 做法把调酒调出来。 在比赛会场，我有许多空闲时间可 以观察其他参赛者，而当天他们呈现出 精彩的作品以及惊人的天赋，这让我彻 底失去信心。宣布比赛冠军时，我还在 计划晚上要去香港哪里游玩。因此，当 我听到评审念出我的名字，心中的惊讶 实在难以言表。 当伦敦世界决赛来临之际，我很高 兴能再一次参与这项盛事，成为这项盛 事的一份子，还参观了所有书上曾读过 的酒吧。不过，说实在的，我还是不抱 太大的希望。 Beefeater 的团队表现真的不同凡响。 一开始我还觉得与所有参赛的调酒师同处 一室有些怪异，因为大家都是赛场上的对 手。不过幸好做这一行并没有太多针锋 相对，与这些世界各地的杰出人士以酒会 友，反而变成此次伦敦行的最美插曲。 第二天比赛开始时，大家还是一样 轻松自在，但对我来说最难的第一关也 在那天。我们要使用限定材料进行创作， 然后供三位评审打分，类似某种市场应 对测试。我的题目是做出不含果汁、柑 橘或水果类的调酒，因此先前预设好的 菜单全都起不了作用，令我非常苦恼。 后来，我以草本植物配上佛手柑做出一 杯马丁尼式调酒呈上评审手中。 坦白说我不太喜欢那杯调酒，也对 自己失准的表现感到失望。不过遭遇这 样一场自以为的「失败」，反倒让我在进 行下一关前放下压力，无忧无虑地过上 几天。只不过想要一路过关斩将，可能 就需要奇迹出现了。 最后三个终极挑战的日子终于来临 了。前两个部分是拍照与招牌调酒示范， 我都能轻松过关。评审 Simon Difford 与 Mr Lyan 来 头 不 小， 是 评 审 台 新 面 孔。 我虽久闻大名，但却从未和他们见过面， 这让我有点胆怯。 最后的挑战是神秘食物搭配赛，比 赛强调可持续性与减废程度。我很幸运 利用在酒吧磨练而来的技巧完成挑战， 对结果也相当满意，相信评审也是。虽 然在比赛最后画下精彩的休止符，但是 由于第一关的失败，我当时也没有信心 进入前八强。 last dance

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Stack of Fortune

then on, anything but winning would have been a disappointment.

For the next two hours we served endless lines of guests – it was a lot of fun with great people around. Their votes would be added to the overall score and could be the game changer. When all the votes had been cast, we broke down our stations as the guests celebrated in another room. I didn’t want to join the crowd, I was so full of energy I could almost feel my body shaking. I just wanted to sit in this empty room and wait for the decision.

After twenty minutes that felt like two hours, they asked us to stand beside the stage for the announcement. I was telling myself that I don’t have to win, I’ve already won, I’m in the top eight, we’ve all deserved it, and I can be proud. The people’s choice award was announced. The winner was from the US, and I almost thought that was it – he’d made a solid impression through

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the entire competition. When Desmond Payne opened the envelope to announce the global winner, it was like slow motion. I’m sure we all were about to have a breakdown.

When he said the winner is from Hong Kong / Macau, I was speechless. I’d never won a competition even locally, and I will never forget that moment. Then it all went so fast – interviews, pictures, and the afterparty. I was having so much fun with the other bartenders that it distracted me from the confusion in my head. I woke up the next morning still not realizing what had happened, and I watched the announcement online just to convince myself that it was real.

The feeling is still weird and good at the same time, and I’m really looking forward to what’s going to happen during the rest of the year. This could be the start of something life changing, and I can’t wait to explore.

选拔赛最后一天，开始宣布八强人 选。一、二、三 …、七，已经有七位调 酒师上台，只剩下最后一个位子。我心 想第一关果然彻底搞砸了我的成绩，但 最后主持人竟然邀请港澳区代表上台， 而我居然进入了八强！ 随后，比赛就快速进行。我们需马 上为 350 名宾客准备我们的招牌调酒。 一整天的比赛，直到晚餐时间，我才稍 微冷静下来。还记得我坐在餐桌前想着： 「我现在想要赢得比赛，我真的离冠军很 近了，我一定要把握这个机会。」从那一 刻起，我有了必胜的决心。 之后两个小时我都在马不停蹄地调 酒，供大排长龙的宾客们品尝，与全球 各地的豪杰竞赛也非常有趣。宾客会投 票给心目中最棒的调酒，每一票都可能 逆转战局。投票结束后，宾客转移阵地 到另一间房间庆祝，我们则开始拆除临 时酒吧。我不想与他们一同欢庆，因为 身体还处在刚刚的备战状态，几乎还可 以感觉到身体微微颤抖。我只想一个人 待在空荡的会场中，静待比赛结果。 等待中的 20 分钟漫长得犹如两个小 时，随后主办单位邀请参赛者到舞台边 等候结果。我告诉自己 ： 「我不需要真的 赢这场比赛。因为我已经赢了，我已经 是前八强，所有参赛者都实至名归，我 为自己感到骄傲了。 」宾客之选诞生了， 美国代表拿下全场人气奖。我想大概冠 军也是他了，毕竟整场比赛下来，他都 表现得非常出色。接着 Desmond Payne 打开全球冠军的信封准备宣布，他的一 举一动在我看来都像是慢动作，我很确 定所有参赛者都紧张得快崩溃了。 直到他说出 ： 「恭喜港澳区代表获得 冠军！」我当下只有目瞪口呆。这一刻 对我来说永生难忘。随后，一切都仿似 按下了快进键，那些赛后访问、合影还 有庆功宴。与其他参赛者的把酒言欢让 我暂时忘却脑中的混乱。隔天清早，我 醒来了，但还没有清醒，依然尚未理清 昨夜的所有如梦似幻，我再次上网重温 昨日的颁奖典礼录像，只为了说服自己： 我真的拿下总冠军了。 那种奇异又美好的感觉，我到现在 还难以忘怀，同时也很期待今年余下的 日子会有什么事情发生。我的人生也许 就此改变，我已等不及想一探究竟了。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

BARTENDER’S TALK

CHAMPAGNE MASTER

香槟权威

tastemaker “PEOPLE GET SWAMPED with the techni-

cal aspects of wine,” says Richard Juhlin, one of the world’s foremost authorities on Champagne, “and they forget the pleasures it brings.” Famed for his blind-tasting skills, Juhlin holds a record for sampling more than eight thousand Champagne varieties since 1998.

A native Swede, Juhlin began his love affair with wine as a child during a family trip to the Moselle Valley winemaking region of Germany. “We did a blind tasting,” he explains, “and none of the adults could figure out the wines. So I thought, at eight years old, I’m quite good at this.”

Traveling to Paris in the mid-eighties, Juhlin took a detour to visit the city’s wine cellars. “I just fell in love,” he remembers. It helped, too, that he had an array of remarkable natural talents. “I was born with a photographic memory, even for smells,” he says. “Wine itself is so subtle and multi-faceted, there’s so much to discover.” He found that the field of Champagne tasting “was an undeveloped world, because even serious wine tasters didn’t really put a lot of effort into it.”

Juhlin went on to make a career of his passion, writing eight books on Champagne and producing his own brand of glasses and

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「 很 多 人 深 陷 于 研 究 葡 萄 酒 的 技 术， 而忘了品酒的喜悦。」享誉全球的香 槟 权 威 Richard Juhlin 说。Richard 以 其超凡的盲品技术见称，1998 年迄今 已品尝逾八千种不同香槟，少有人能 望其项背。 作为土生土长的瑞典人，Richard 于孩童时期曾与家人共游德国著名葡 萄酒产区摩泽尔谷，从此他对葡萄酒 的热爱开始萌芽。他说 ： 「当时我们 做了一次盲品，没有大人能尝出那是 什么酒。我觉得就一个八岁小孩来说， 我能品尝出来，还挺厉害的。」 八十年代中期，他前往巴黎旅游， 顺道走访了当地的酒窖。「我一眼就 爱上了。」Richard 回忆道。当然这跟 他天赋异禀也有很大的关系。他说 ： 「我天生就有过目不忘的记忆力，连 气味都记得住。葡萄酒本身如此细腻 多元，值得探索的实在太多了。」他 发现鉴赏香槟这个领域「是个未经开 发的领地，就连专业品酒师都没有花 费太大精力钻研。」 于是 Richard 凭着满腔热忱，为 自己的职涯开出一条康庄大道。他撰 写了八本与香槟有关的著作，自创品 牌生产酒杯与无酒精气泡酒。他也经 常为葡萄酒杂志撰文，亦投入《Drinks and Restaurants in Europe》电视节目 制作，还抽空造访法国香槟产区。

COURTESY GAGGENAU

A renowned expert advocates new ways of enjoying wines – and of storing them to perfection with the help of Gaggenau.

Juhlin’s top tip: “Know ​ which Champagne to pick ​ for the right occasion.”

Richard分享诀窍：「按场​ 合搭配适合的香槟。」

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Gaggenau Vario wine climate cabinets 400 series offer temperature settings between five and twenty degrees Celsius.

Gaggenau Vario 400系列酒柜可把温度精准控制在5至20摄氏度之间。

sparkling nonalcoholic wines. A frequent contributor to wine magazines, Juhlin is also working on a television series called Drinks and Restaurants in Europe, and he manages to find time to arrange tours to France’s Champagne region.

His latest book, Champagne Hiking, was inspired by his skill in advising travelers on the best pairings of wines with destinations. In researching the book, Juhlin hiked through some of the world’s most beautiful spots, bringing along the Champagnes he deemed optimal for each specific locale and its climate. “Everybody knows that wine is completely different in different places,” he explains, “but no one’s really gone into this very deeply.” To the Hotel Haikko Manor in the southern Finnish city of Porvoo, Juhlin brought a Krug vintage, perfect for “any sunny day from May to August.” In Japan at Kyoto’s Buddhist temple, he popped open a Selosse Le Mesnil Les Carelles, best enjoyed from April to October. “To choose the right company, circumstances, and environment

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to taste the right type of Champagne or wine – it’s so forgotten about.”

Juhlin was in Hong Kong – a city that he notes has a well-developed hiking culture – to promote Champagne Hiking as part of his Asian tour. “Young people in Hong Kong, China, and Japan are so into traveling and living a sophisticated lifestyle,” he says. And for any wine-savvy urbanite, equipping oneself with the right Champagne on the road is just as important as enjoying it at home.

While in the city, Juhlin partnered with Gaggenau, the world’s premier name in home culinary appliances, to unveil their new Vario wine climate cabinets 400 series, which offer the same precise conditions as professional cellars and that can hold up to ninety-nine standard bottles.

“There are a lot of people buying wines and then drinking them under bad circumstances,” notes Juhlin. But with its new line of cabinets, Gaggenau, Juhlin says, has reached “perfection” in maintaining the ideal conditions for the storage of wines. Gaggenau’s

brilliant design provides two separate climate zones for independent regulation of both temperature and humidity – an absolute essential for serious wine lovers. “This is especially important in a warm climate like Hong Kong’s,” he says. Wines that drinkers plan to enjoy at their peak – “the ones you want to have yourself, and not leave for your grandchildren” – can be stored in one climate, and others can be kept for the long term at a lower temperature. And, Juhlin says, Gaggenau’s reputation for the ultimate in sleek, stylish design means that each cabinet “is also a very nice piece of furniture.”

Ultimately, Juhlin wants to preach the joys of Champagne to wine lovers and travelers the world over: “You don’t need to know much – you just need to experiment, and discover the best parts of the planet. It’s not about just going to a place, shooting a selfie, and saying, ‘Now I’ve been to the Grand Canyon.’ Your interest and knowledge will increase when you learn to really take in the place and enjoy the Champagne.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

CHAMPAGNE MASTER

他的新书《Champagne Hiking》是以 为旅人提供最适搭配目的地的葡萄酒建议 为灵感。编写这本书时，Richard 曾徒步到 一些全球绝美景点考察，并带上他认为最 适合每个地点与气候的香槟。他解释道 ： 「大家都知道不同地方的葡萄酒会截然不 同，却没有人深入探讨过。」在芬兰南部城 市 波 尔 沃 的 Haikko Manor 酒 店，Richard 带的是最适合「五月到八月晴天」享受的 库克 Krug Vintage 香槟 ；在日本京都的佛 寺，他则开了瓶最适合在四月到十月之间 品尝的 Selosse Le Mesnil Les Carelles。他 认为 ： 「大家都忘了要选择最恰当的旅伴、 场合以及环境来品尝最匹配的香槟或葡萄 酒。」 于亚洲宣传《Champagne Hiking》期 间，Richard 来到他觉得健行文化十分发达 的香港。他说 ： 「中国香港、中国以及日本 的年轻人非常热衷旅游，喜欢成熟的生活 方式。」对任何精通葡萄酒的都会人士而 言，携带适合的香槟旅行就跟在家中品尝 同样重要。 在香港之行期间，Richard 更与全球首 屈一指的高级厨具品牌 Gaggenau 携手推 出崭新 Vario 400 系列酒柜，调控之精准媲 美专业酒窖，且容量高达 99 标准瓶。 Richard 表 示 ： 「 许 多 人 买 了 葡 萄 酒， 却在不恰当的环境中享用。」但 Gaggenau 全新 Vario 400 酒柜系列能为葡萄酒提供完 美无瑕、最理想的贮存条件。酒柜精心设 计的两个独立控温空间能分别调节温度和 湿度，对讲究的葡萄酒爱好者而言可谓至 关重要。他补充道 ： 「对于香港这种温暖的 气候，这个设计尤其重要。」品酒者可设定 一种贮存条件，以保存那些想留待颠峰时 刻喝的葡萄酒，也就是那些「想自己享受 而非留给后代子孙」的酒，其他的则可长 期存放于较低温空间里。此外，Richard 表 示，Gaggenau 极致光滑时尚的设计享负盛 名，每个酒柜「都是演绎美学的家具」。 最后，Richard 想向全世界的葡萄酒爱 好者和旅人们宣扬品酩香槟的乐趣 ： 「不需 要知道太多，只需要去体验、去发现这世 上最美好的事物。不要只为了到某个地方、 拍个自拍照、宣告『我终于到过大峡谷了』， 一旦你真正用心接纳某个地方，享受香槟， 你的兴趣与知识便会随之增进。」

An appreciation for wine and nature inspired Richard Juhlin’s new book. 珍视葡萄酒与大自然为 Richard Juhlin 创作新书的灵感来源。 last dance

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WINE MASTER

忠于原味

true to the fruit

An Australian winemaker is committed to authentic expression of the grapes in every bottle.

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DAVID HARTUNG

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WINE MASTER

IN A PANEL from the popular Japanese manga comics series The Drops of God, the creators show a burly, follicly-challenged man standing amidst rows of lush grapevines and thoughtfully surveying the surrounding vineyard and the valley beyond. Although it’s a simple rear-angle sketch, the visual clues – coupled with the comic’s earlier rendering of the all-seeing eye of Horus found on the iconic label of Ben Glaetzer’s acclaimed Amon-Ra Shiraz – make it all too clear just who is being portrayed.

“They must have seen a photo of me or something,” surmises Glaetzer. “Obviously I don’t have much hair, and it does look like me from behind.” The comic’s setting is Ebenezer, a small one-and-a-half-squaremile subregion in the northern reaches of Australia’s Barossa Valley, from which all of Glaetzer Wine’s grapes are sourced. Glaetzer has locked in upwards of 90 percent of Ebenezer’s grapes for his own labels by virtue of close family ties, dating back to the 1880s, with the original Prussian settlers and their fourth- and fifth-generation grape-growing descendants. Deals are routinely closed with a handshake in a local pub.

“I know the history of the vineyards in Ebenezer,” says Glaetzer. “I know the vines – the youngest are around thirty-five years old and the oldest are about a hundred and forty – and I know how good the fruit is. The shiraz, in particular, absolutely excels in Ebenezer.

You could easily turn it into a 17-percent-alcohol big blockbuster that you could stand a spoon up in, but I wanted to show how good it could be to preserve the fruit flavor.”

To do that, Glaetzer harvests his grapes quite a bit earlier than most other Barossa Valley producers do. He also employs a laborintensive harvesting method that separates batches by such factors as harvest date, soil, vines, and whether or not the grapes were frosted. One seventy-acre vineyard comprises over sixteen different soil types, ranging from clay and silt to limestone and fine white sand.

“At harvest time, I’ll have fifty different harvest dates for the different batches from this vineyard,” he says. “Even on the same row, I’ll

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harvest a section, skip fifteen panels, harvest the next section, and stop.”

By keeping everything separate, Glaetzer is able to maximize his blending options in blending at the end, ensuring that the best parcels go into the appropriate products.

Where an ancient river once coursed through and deposited high levels of silt, the grapevines now grow with vigor, yielding bigger berries that lend themselves more to his juicier and approachable Wallace. In contrast, the old vines growing on fine white sand are forced by its low water-holding capacity to produce fewer bunches of smaller, more concentrated berries. The resulting wine has more tannin, deeper color, and a richer mouthfeel – perfect for the Amon-Ra style with its forty-year cellaring potential.

Glaetzer fine-tunes many traditional ­winemaking techniques to finesse an elegant, complex wine with great depth of flavor. By using a special yeast that produces stable fermentation in cold temperatures, he is able to keep his primary fermentation below 20°C, extending it out to as much as two weeks and retaining pure fruit flavor in place of hot aromatics. After malolactic fermentation, Glaetzer racks the wine into barrels to prevent bruising and disrupting its structure and keeps the barrels topped off for sixteen months before bottling without filtration.

During the 2016 harvest – what Glaetzer describes as “an absolute cracker” of a vintage – he identified a tiny parcel of fruit that was outstanding enough to bottle as a onetime, single-parcel release. “It’s literally just a couple of barrels from one particular block on a particular type of soil,” he says, “and I thought, this is the one year I think I can release something different from the AmonRa that deserves to stand alone.”

This unnamed shiraz is a pure expression of the exceptional 2016 vintage and of Glaetzer’s minimalist approach to winemaking. “It’s very much taking the absolute best ingredients you’ve got and then gently guiding them into a bottle so that the wine remains a true representation of the fruit.”

日本热门连载漫画《神之水滴》有一幕： 一位精壮结实、头顶熠熠生辉的男人 站在绵延蓊郁的葡萄藤间，若有所思 地巡视四周的葡萄园及更远处的河谷。 虽然仅是幅后角的简单素描，但这些 视 觉 线 索， 再 加 上 漫 画 先 前 曾 提 到 Horus 的全知之眼，正是 Ben Glaetzer 备受赞誉的酒款「穹苍之眼」上的象 征性标志，画中人物到底是谁早已不 言而喻了。 「他们一定看过我的照片之类的。」 Ben 猜测道。「显然我头发不多，但这 背影真的很像我。」 如此想来，漫画场景必定是 Ebenezer 地 区 ：一 处 1.5 平 方 英 里、 位 于澳洲巴罗莎谷北缘、包办了所有格 莱佐（Glaetzer）酒庄红酒原料的次产 区 。格莱佐家族早在 1880 年代便与

DAVID HARTUNG

当地葡萄农有亲近的渊源，因而跟最初来 自普鲁士的拓荒者及其第四、第五代传人 包下该区高达九成的葡萄，用来酿制自家 品牌的酒，双方定期在当地酒吧议价，最 后握手成交。 Ben 说 ： 「我太清楚 Ebenezer 葡萄园的 历史了，这些葡萄藤最年轻的约 35 岁，最 老的有 140 岁。葡萄的品质有多好我也了 若指掌，尤其是西拉 (shiraz) 葡萄更是一绝， 轻易便可酿造出 17 度的超畅销酒款，而且 更可让汤匙直立在厚实的酒体中。但我想 展示保存葡萄原始风味的酒的绝佳风味。」 于是 Ben 比巴罗莎谷多数葡萄农更早 收成葡萄，而且用劳力密集的方式，按照 不同采收日期、土壤、葡萄藤、葡萄是否 受冻等因素分批采摘。一块 70 英亩的葡萄 园里有 16 种不同土壤，包括黏土、粉土、 石灰土及细致的白砂。「同一座葡萄园到了

收成时期，我会在 50 个不同日期分批采收。 即使是同一排葡萄，我也会采收一区，跳 过 15 个区，再采下一区，然后就停止。」 Ben 的分批采收法让他能在最后享有 最大的混调弹性，确保使用最佳的一区酿 制出最适当的酒款。过去曾有河川流过、 粉土含量高的土壤种出的葡萄藤如今成长 茁壮，硕大的果实适合酿造水果香浓郁又 平易近人的格莱佐华莱士红酒。而生长在 细致白砂的老藤则因保水性低，长出的葡 萄串数较少、果实较小、排列较紧密，酿 制的红酒单宁更显著，色泽更深沉，口感 更丰富，恰恰符合「穹苍之眼」四十年不 衰的窖藏潜力。 在 Ben 的巧手下，多种传统酿酒技艺 经过细微调整，酿制出的酒既典雅、复杂 又风味深遂。他用一种能在低温稳定发酵 的特殊酵母，维持主发酵在 20°C 以下进

行，最长可达两周，全然保留葡萄的新鲜 香气。经过苹果酸乳酸发酵后，Ben 再将 红酒倒至木桶内避免酒体结构受到破坏， 并将装满红酒的木桶放置 16 个月，然后不 经过滤直接装瓶。 2016 年的收成被 Ben 形容为「葡萄大 爆炸」。他看到一小区品质极优的葡萄，优 异到足以自成一区装瓶单独上市。他说 ： 「意思就是用某种土壤种出的某一区葡萄制 成几桶酒。那年的收成让我想酿制出跟『穹 苍之眼』截然不同且值得单独推出的酒款。」 此款由西拉葡萄酿制的无名红酒充分 彰显了格莱佐酒庄 2016 年收成的出类拔 萃，亦体现出 Ben 极简酿酒法的精髓，以 及他独树一帜、忠于葡萄原味的风格。 他 如是说 ： 「其实我只是用手边最上等的葡 萄，温柔地把它们引导到酒瓶里，让红酒 忠实传达葡萄的原汁原味。」 last dance

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PRESENTED BY THE SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD

超乎想像的感官之旅

extra sensory perception

THERE AREN’T MANY PLACES in spaceconstrained Hong Kong where a huge cylindrical pop-up tasting room eight meters across and four meters high would fit. So when The Singleton of Glen Ord was given the opportunity to showcase its famous premium Scotch whiskies at Taste of Hong Kong 2018, a four-day outdoor culinary festival held

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A fully immersive experience leads guests through the fascinating – and flavorful – world of The Singleton of Glen Ord.

Drew Mills,​ Marketing Director, DIAGEO Brands

at Central Harbourfront, Marketing Director Drew Mills and the team at Diageo Brands sprang into action.

Named The Singleton Sensorium, the oak-paneled structure is designed to suggest an enormous two-hundred-cubic-meter cask. Dismantled, it was loaded into a fortyfoot container and shipped to Hong Kong from the UK. A creative team was dispatched

to Glen Ord Distillery’s home on Scotland’s Black Isle peninsula to shoot an array of 360degree videos of the facility and its environs.

And by a stroke of fortuitous timing, Moët Hennessy Diageo Hong Kong managed to secure the city’s first-ever allocation of the brand’s highly anticipated The Singleton of Glen Ord 15 Years Old for the festival.

The remarkable result is a multi-sensory

adventure that transports guests to the northern reaches of the Scottish Highlands and grants them behind-the-scenes access to the whisky-making process from barley to cask to bottle. Led in person by the brand’s international ambassador team, the experience is enhanced by 4D elements that include wraparound video projections coordinated with complementary scents, physical props, and, last dance

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PRESENTED BY THE SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD

The Singleton of Glen Ord 15 Years Old will make its Hong Kong debut at the Taste of Hong Kong 2018.

The Singleton of Glen Ord 15年威士忌将于 Taste of Hong Kong 2018 美食节首度在香港登场。

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and taking you through the distillery.” The vertical tasting of three whiskies, The Singleton of Glen Ord 12 Years Old, 15 Years Old, and 18 Years Old, takes place concurrently with the virtual tour. Each scene serves as background atmosphere to aid in exploring and discovering how a specific step in the whisky-making process impacts the qualities of the liquid.

“We talk the guests through the 12 Years Old during the fermentation scene,” says Mills, “because it has lovely, rich, fruity notes that come from the long fermentation process. The distillery character and flavors that are imparted at the time of fermentation and distillation will be a lot more prevalent in liquid that hasn’t sat as long in a cask.”

The 18 Years Old is introduced during the warehouse scene, replete with an ancient earthy scent and the sounds of creaking wood and scuffles across heavy concrete floors.

“This whisky has an extra six years of maturation in the casks, so it will be influenced much more by the wood characteristics.”

Guests are also invited to explore a series of physical props for sensory assistance in

evaluating the whiskies. Oranges, ginger, dried fruits, chocolate, and other foods are provided to help trigger flavor recognition by the palate and to elevate certain notes. Mills fervently believes that tasters’ biggest limitation in analyzing whisky is not in the sensitivity of their palates but in the extent of their lexicons for describing what they’re sensing. “We talk about fresh green apples in lots of whiskies we taste,” he explains, “but an apple might not be a flavor you’re at all familiar with if you never eat apples or haven’t walked through an orchard. Providing a fresh green apple at a tasting gives its scent relevance to the guests and brings that flavor note to life in the whisky.

“I could sit here and talk to you all day about the world of Glen Ord,” says Mills.

“But to see it, smell it, touch it, and taste it in The Singleton Sensorium – short of sending you to Scotland to experience it, there’s no better way to bring it to life.”

To book a tasting in The Singleton Sensorium at Taste of Hong Kong presented by Standard Chartered (22-25 March), visit ticketflap.com/tastehongkong2018.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

of course, tastings of The Singleton of Glen Ord whiskies.

“Malt whisky as a category lends itself to constant discovery and exploration,” says Mills, “and whether you’re a beginner who wants to learn the basics or someone who is well-versed, The Singleton Sensorium gives you an amazing opportunity to engage with the brand. We want people to learn about the distillery and fall in love with the whisky.”

The journey opens in the Black Isle, with the wind rustling through golden fields of barley and a gentle suggestion of maritime air wafting in from the nearby coast. The location is quite significant to the Glen Ord Distillery, one of a select few that continue to malt their own barley. Sensorium guests are invited to handle the fresh grain and smell the sweetness and biscuit notes that come through in the final product.

“We try to frame our whisky experiences around making sure people are engaged and interacting in conversation,” says Mills. “The Sensorium is not a scripted experience where you’re being lectured. It’s only guided insofar as we’re putting you in the environment

“The Sensorium is a way of bringing guests to the distillery and opening the old oak door to The Singleton of Glen Ord,” says Mills.

Drew表示：「这次『感官品酒会』将把宾客带到酒厂，穿过橡木桶，进入The Singleton of Glen Ord 威士忌的世界。」

在地狭人稠的香港，很难看到八米宽、四 米 高 的 圆 柱 形 快 闪 品 酒 室。 为 期 四 天 的 Taste of Hong Kong 2018 美食节将在中环海 滨活动空间举行。当得知旗下知名单一麦 芽威士忌 The Singleton of Glen Ord 获得参 展机会后，Diageo 行销总监 Drew Mills 和 他的团队便马上着手策划布置品酒空间。 这场探索之旅名为「感官品酒会」，在 以橡木板作支撑、容量高达两百立方米的 大型木桶内进行。木桶先在英国拆解，装 进四十尺长的容器后，再飘洋过海来到香 港 组 装。 同 时， 一 组 创 意 团 队 被 分 派 到 Glen Ord 酒厂位于苏格兰布莱克半岛的老 家，将厂内设备与环境拍成 360 度环景影 像。而一个偶然的机缘，让 Moët Hennessy Diageo 香港公司成功拿下众人梦寐以求的 The Singleton of Glen Ord 15 年威士忌的香 港首批配额。适逢其会，这款威士忌将在 这次美食节正式亮相。 云集于「感官品酒会」的宾客将仿佛 置身苏格兰北方高地，亲身参与威士忌从 麦芽原料经发酵到成品的幕后制作过程。 在品牌大使的带领之下，宾客将感受一场 4D 全感品酩旅程 ：环境投影、对应镜头散 发的香气、真实可触碰的道具，以及必不 可少的、The Singleton 威士忌的顺滑口感。

Drew 表示 ： 「不论是新品酒人或资深 品酒师， 『感官品酒会』提供了绝佳的机 会，让大家能更深入了解我们的品牌和酿 酒设备，进而情不自禁地爱上威士忌。」 品酒会以布莱克岛为开端，岛上金黄 麦田首先映入眼帘，海岸吹来的海风温柔 地拍打在身上。这样得天独厚的环境，让 Glen Ord 酒厂拥有自种麦田的独特条件。 宾客能近距离赏玩麦穗，用鼻子感受大麦 的香甜气息与成品散发出的饼干风味。 Drew 认为 ： 「我们竭尽所能规划完善 的整体体验，确保宾客能完全投入其中并 产生互动交流。『 感官品酒会 』没有预设 的既定流程，我们只协助宾客融入环境， 引导他们参观酒厂。」进行虚拟体验的同 时，宾客可以品尝到 The Singleton of Glen Ord 12 年、15 年还有 18 年的经典威士忌。 特定的酿酒步骤在制酒过程中会大大地影 响成品的味道与特性。每个投影机放出的 影像都让宾客仿佛身历其境，帮助宾客探 索和发现酿酒步骤的奥秘。 Drew 解释道 ： 「播放到发酵画面时， 我们开始介绍 12 年威士忌的特点。长时 间的发酵可带出优雅、浓厚及果香的气息。 而在发酵与蒸馏过程中所赋予酒的特性与 香气，会在年份较轻的酒中表现得更为鲜

明。」18 年的威士忌则在仓库画面时介绍， 配合空气中弥漫的泥土气息，耳边更传来 木头声与拖过厚重水泥地的声音。Drew 透 露： 「这瓶酒在木桶中多放了六年，含有木 桶带来的更深层的特性与气味。 」 活动中也欢迎宾客利用道具，以分辨 威士忌的特质。场内提供柑橘、姜、干果、 巧克力等食材，帮助宾客启动味蕾或提升 香气的层次。Drew 坚信，宾客在分辨威士 忌口味时，最大的障碍并非味蕾敏感度， 而是在于是否有足够词汇来描述他们所尝 到的味道。他解释 ： 「我们每种威士忌几乎 都有青苹果的味道，但如果你从不吃苹果， 或者没有去过果园，你可能不熟悉它的味 道。所以准备青苹果供宾客品尝，他们能 联想到相似的口味，也更容易察觉威士忌 中的青苹果香。」 Drew 说 ： 「在『感官品酒会』，你可以 用眼睛看、用鼻子闻、用手指触碰，还能 用舌头品尝。除了去苏格兰亲身经历以外， 我想不到比这更能真实的体验方式了。」

如欲预订由渣打银行呈献，于 3 月 22 日 至 25 日在 Taste of Hong Kong 2018 美食节 举办的感官品酒会，请访问 ticketflap.com/ tastehongkong2018 last dance

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Sabatino Tartufi Truffle products, Sabatino Tartufi

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Inland Ice Water, EMA Marketing Services Ltd.

PRESENTED BY GOURMET ASIA

品味天下

food and much more Experience the exciting world of fine dining – and everything in it – at Gourmet Asia.

THE ULTIMATE SHOWCASE for extraordinary foods from around the globe – Gourmet Asia – will premiere May 9–11 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Presented by the organizer of HOFEX, Asia’s leading food and hospitality trade show, the three-day extravaganza – spread across twelve thousand square meters – will focus on international fine foods and beverages as well as equipment and accessories from world-renowned brands. The new show has already gained widespread industry support including from the Hong Kong Tourism Board, the Hong Kong Hotels Association, and the Hong Kong Chefs Association.

More than four hundred international F&B brands will present products that include gourmet food and drinks, premium meats and seafood, select bakery and confectionary items, specialty coffee equipment, and the very latest in hospitality design, supplies, and technologies.

Gourmet Asia serves as the ideal platform for connecting key decision makers and premium food buyers from the hospitality and food service industries with high-quality suppliers and industry professionals. More than twelve thousand trade buyers are expected to attend.

At the exhibition’s Gourmet Tasting Restaurant, award-winning chefs will lead guests on a unique gastronomic journey. Taking their cue from exhibitors’ specialty ingredients, top chefs from Hong Kong and Macau will prepare an original three-course lunch menu each day to spotlight the premium-quality products available.

Be inspired by acclaimed chefs, pâtissiers, restaurateurs, coffee connoisseurs, and successful food and beverage operators as they present stimulating new ideas that can help build businesses across Asia.

Learn more at gourmetasia.com, and preregister now at gourmetasia.com/enroll.

Dry Ager, Langtech Limited

汇聚寰宇美食的 Gourmet Asia 精致高级餐饮展将于 2018 年 5 月 9 日至 11 日在香港会议展览中 心首次举办。由亚洲顶尖食品及酒店设备展 HOFEX 主办方策划，为期三日的展览占地 12,000 平 方米，将云集来自世界各地的精品美食和饮料，以及全球知名品牌的用品和配件。这个首次登场 的展览已获不少香港业内人士支持参与，包括香港旅游发展局，香港酒店业协会和香港厨师协会。 展览吸引超过 400 个参展品牌，展品囊括美食、饮料、优质肉类、海鲜、烘焙品、糕点、精 选咖啡设备，以及酒店设计、用品和科技。Gourmet Asia 将成为酒店及餐饮服务行业的企业决 策层和高级食材买家，以及品质供应商和行业专业人士之间的理想交流平台。展览预计吸引超过

12,000 位商业买家入场。 同场更设有 Gourmet Tasting Restaurant，由顶级名厨带领客人开展独特的美食之旅。在展览 期间，港澳星级厨师将于现场运用参展商的精选食材，准备包含三道菜的特色午膳菜单，以展示 产品和食材无可比拟的品质。 名厨、烘焙师、餐厅老板、咖啡鉴赏家以及食材供应商将展现无限创意。亲临现场，激发你的 想象，了解助力亚洲业务扩展的新颖构思。 请即访问 gourmetasia.com 了解更多，并于 gourmetasia.com/enroll 预先登记。

COURTESY OF GOURMET ASIA (4)

GOURMET ASIA The Real Fine Dining Exhibition 9 - 11 May 2018 | Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre 香港会议展览中心 GourmetAsia.com *Open to trade visitors aged 18 or above only 只供 18 岁或以上的业内人士参观

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Tapas de Portugal 葡薏园 5

Nikkei cuisine

Jade Dragon誉珑轩 5

Ground floor mezzanine, MGM COTAI,

澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道2楼

q +853 8806 2308

q +853 8868 2822

Lunch: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00 ​ A Smart casual

wear long trousers with closed footwear.

Children aged six years and above are

​ Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau ​ 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 Daily: 07:00-23:00 A Smart casual

Grill 58 盛焰 5

Western grill and teppanyaki Ground floor mezzanine, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅GM层

q +853 8806 2318

Lunch: 11:00-15:00;

The 8 Restaurant 8 餐厅 5

Lisboa, Macau

are welcome to dine at the private dining

澳门葡京路新葡京酒店2楼

room.

q +853 8803 7788

Janice Wong MGM 5

Chinese 2/F, Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de

welcome. Children aged below six years

Contemporary Californian

q +853 8806 2328

Daily: 12:00–02:00

Lunch: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00 ​ A Smart casual. Gentlemen are required to

Coast 涛岸 5

澳门氹仔木铎街9号 q +853 2857 6626

Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅GM层

Portuguese Rua dos Clerigos No.9, Taipa, Macau

2/F, The Shops at the Boulevard, City of

Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau ​

(Closed on Mondays)

5

Chinese-Cantonese

Artisanal pastry Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da

Lunch: Mon-Sat: 11:30-14:30; Sun & Public Holidays: 10:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:30-22:30 ​

澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层

The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge 丽思酒廊

q +853 8806 2338

5

Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

Daily: 10:00-22:00 A Smart casual

Restaurant André 41 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore 089855

Bar & lounge 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton Macau, Galaxy Macau, Coloane-Taipa, Macau

澳门路氹城望德圣母湾大马路澳门丽思卡 尔顿酒店51楼 q +853 8886 6712

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Restaurant André was permanently closed

Sun-Thu: 12:00-01:00

A Smart casual

as of February 14, 2018.

Fri-Sat: 12:00-02:00

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DAVID HARTUNG

Aji 雅吉

Located over three oors, The Optimist is a Barcelona-chic Bar and Asador-Inspired Restaurant which gives an authentically generous Northern Spanish experience. With its expansive oor plan, it is the ideal location to cater for groups with its tucked away corners and private levels suited to all occasions.

Choose from our decadent Events menus or have our Events Team create a bespoke menu for your event - let us take care of putting your vision to work while you enjoy a feast concocted on our Asador style traditional grills.

Group booking available at :

For enquiries: groups@piratagroup.hk +852 3956 5791

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Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Please make checks payable to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.” Tel +852 3748 3756

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DESSERT

一对小小的小熊软糖被放在一个锡色的盘上，就像两个玩伴溜滑梯一样。这些可爱的软糖是​ 江振诚主厨精巧美味的法式小甜点的一部分，在享用完四个主要甜点后上桌，让味蕾保持敏锐。​ 软糖的口感软韧，带有浓烈的酸葡萄和涩涩的沙棘味，为整个用餐体验划上清新的句点。

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DAVID HARTUNG

A pair of tiny gummy bears rests against a textured coil of pewter-colored metal, like two playmates about to go down a slide. These charmingly edible teddies are part of André Chiang’s witty and delicious selection of mignardises, treats served after the four dessert courses to keep palates intrigued. With a gently yielding chewiness and a flavor sharpened by verjus and astringent sea buckthorn, these succulent candies make a refreshing finale to the feast.

T H E W O R L D ’ S F I R S T D I S T I L L E D N O N -ALCOHOLIC S P I R I T S ‘ WHAT TO DRINK WHEN YO U ’RE NOT DRINKING’

AVA I L A B L E AT: PDT [LANDMARK MANDARIN]

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ABERDEEN STREET SO CIAL HK LIQUOR STORE

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THE BOT TLE SHOP

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