TK42 Walk on the Wild Side

HKD60 | MOP60 | RMB60 | NTD240 | SGD10 | USD8 | £6

T A S T I N G 42

K I T C H E N

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

TAI PO

Walk on the Wild Side 荒野行者

SHEUNG WAN

Constant Discovery 自然百宝

CENTRAL

Amber’s Enlightenment 创意启行

PLEASE PLEASE DRINK DRINK RESPONSIBLY RESPONSIBLY

STARTER

Chef Uwe Opocensky opens the summer tasting menu at Uwe, his Sheung Wan restaurant, with a miniature edible grove that features “flowers” made of beetroot and “leaves” made of squash sourced from a local organic farm in Yi O. An assortment of foraged wild flowers embellishes the dish. 主厨 Uwe Opocensky 在他位于上环的同名餐厅「Uwe」推出仲夏尝味菜单，其中 一道菜把一个微型树林搬到餐桌上。森林中有用来自二澳有机农场的南瓜制成的可

DAVID HARTUNG

食用「叶子」和以甜菜根制成的「鲜花」 ，树上更盛放着各种各样的野生花卉。

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T A S T I N G 42

K I T C H E N

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

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DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

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Professional forager Wanda Huang picks a wild chrysanthemum flower. She dries the blossoms for use as a tea and also suggests sprinkling the petals on fish for a clean-tasting garnish. Read more about the natural bounty Huang harvests from Hong Kong’s abandoned farmlands and forests, starting on page 28. 资深野外采集者Wanda Huang采摘野生菊花， 风干后可用来泡茶。菊花花瓣亦可洒在鱼肉料理上， 加添淡然、清新的气息。翻阅第28页，了解她深 入香港废弃农田和森林，寻找自然瑰宝的故事。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2019 All rights reserved

Maggie T Sutrov

Landscapes and Botanicals of Hawaii and Beyond To have a free postcard of this painting sent to you, visit www.maggiesutrov.com

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

This issue is about chefs and artists and bartenders who have dared to stray from well-trodden paths. Instead of seeking inspiration in the carefully curated and cultivated, they would rather find it in the wild.

We start with stories of artists who incorporate untamed nature and foraged elements into their works. A painter, often in remote locations in Hawaii, revels in working outdoors where she can breathe free and feel each change in the light. A Canadian artist discovers through experimentation how to convert various natural ingredients and city-foraged finds, from shellac and wintergreen to black walnuts and wild grapes, into one-of-akind artisan inks. And by transforming reclaimed wood into handles and matching them with her own rough and raw ceramics, a potter near San Francisco creates pieces that each have a story to tell.

In Hong Kong, we visit the new outpost of a UK chef who has made a global name with imaginative dishes that feature flawless produce sourced from his own chef-managed farms.

Pleasantly surprised by the quality available from local organic farms in the New Territories, he finds that he needs to import very little from back home.

Next we head into Hong Kong’s surrounding wilds with one of the city’s leading foragers as guide. She takes us uphill and down, roaming through thickets and into the abandoned farmlands of the Yi O countryside. We join her hunt for wild seasonal herbs, flowers, fruits, vegetables, and nuts, all of which she markets to a handful of Hong Kong chefs who have created dishes or entire menus around foraged foods. At one of her collaborating restaurants, we hear the story of how chef and forager first met, and we sample a menu that showcases the recent fruits of their partnership.

Finally, our expedition leads us into the kitchen of one of Hong Kong’s most celebrated chefs, who is taking his cuisine in a fresh and exciting new direction. Stripping away the heaviness of the fine-dining experience and focusing on limitless innovation, he reveals the interplay of flavor and texture by letting each unencumbered ingredient sing.

I hope you will enjoy each step of our wild summer ramble.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 12 To Breathe, To Feel • 14 The Wizard of Ink • 16 Of Wood and Earth • 20 Organic Alchemy 24 Homegrown Flavors • 28 Walk on the Wild Side • 44 Constant Discovery 54 Amber’s Enlightenment • 66 Foraging the City • 74 Fresh and Unexpected

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CONTENTS

78 Creatively Chinese • 82 Paradisial Pairings • 84 Doing It for the ’Gram 88 Time to Eat • 92 Austria Meets Asia • 94 Sustainable Mixology 98 Twelve Exceptional Months • 100 Hennessy Looks East 111 L I S T I N G S • 112 L A S T C A L L

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Mountain apple, ōhia ‘ai, a Polynesianintroduced food plant 山苹果，由玻里尼西亚 人引进的食用植物， 夏威夷语为 ōhia ‘ai

“I REALLY THINK THAT GEOGRAPHY FORMS who we are.” Maggie Sutrov’s

「环境塑造性格，此话一字不假。 」Maggie Sutrov 的童年，

childhood was spent on the side of dormant volcano Haleakalā and on a rambling property in rural Kula. “From up-country, as we called that part of the island, you could see all the way to the coast,” she says, “and I had a strong sense of connection to the mountain under my feet.”

Sutrov, who picked up her first sketchbook at age three, has since filled endless pads and canvases with scenes of markets in Taiwan, ferries in British Columbia, streets in Hanoi and Singapore, peaks in Washington State, and verdant valleys in Haleakalā National Park.

The plein air artist has long been enamored of Hawaii’s extraordinary profusion of native plants that coexist alongside edible or medicinal varieties brought in canoes by the first Polynesians to visit and settle the archipelago hundreds of

在休眠的哈雷阿卡拉火山山脚下、漫无边际的库拉乡村农

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地里度过。她说 ： 「从岛上内陆地区眺望，能一眼看到地平 线远端的海岸，我对脚下这片山水的情感，也如同地平线 般绵延不绝。 」 三岁就拿起画笔的 Maggie，她现在在画布上纵情挥洒 了台湾的市集、英属哥伦比亚的邮轮、河内与新加坡的街道、 华盛顿州的山峰以及哈雷阿卡拉国家公园的翠绿山谷。 百年前 , 波利尼西亚人到此定居时，一艘艘小舟乘载 着许多可食用与医疗用植物。如今，这些植物与原生种繁 荣共处，为夏威夷这片土地带来丰富的多样性。身为户外 画家的 Maggie，早年就已对此景况一见倾心。因此，她的

吐息之间

ART

to breathe, to feel

Maggie Sutrov’s art thrives in the lush valleys and mountain ranges of Hawaii.

Vervain, known in Hawaiian as ha‘uoi or ōwī

MAGGIE SUTROV (2)

马鞭草，夏威夷语 为 ha‘uoi 或 ōw

years ago. She has taken to painting rare specimens or those with historical or cultural significance. “Every plant,” she says, “has a story of how it got here.”

Although she sometimes paints in oils, watercolor is her preferred medium. “It offers me a chance to breathe, to feel, to take in the changing light,” she explains.

“I look at how the rocks have eroded, how the plants weave towards the sun, the marks of humans, recent or historic, and my memories of that place.”

Each of Sutrov’s botanical portraits represents an intimate conversation with nature. The two shown here depict wild varieties painted while camping in remote Kīpahulu. “I study how a plant grows,” she says, “how the stems divide and the flowers cluster and which shades of green make up the underside of its leaves. After painting it, I know it in a new way and I smile whenever I see it.”

画作中总是填满了稀有物种、 具历史或文化价值的植物。她说： 「这片土地上，每株草都其来有自。 」 尽管有时也画油画，水彩仍是她最爱的媒介。她解释 ： 「水彩的特性，让我有机会深呼吸，去感受、领会光影的幻化。 我观察岩石如何受到侵蚀、植物如何向阳光招展，更观察人类 在过往或现在如何留下印记，也思索我对这片土地的记忆。 」

Maggie 画笔下的每幅植物画像，都是她与大自然的亲密 对话。画面上这两幅，是她在偏远的基帕胡鲁露营时描绘的 两株坚韧生命。她说 ： 「我曾研究植物的生长历程，知道茎干 如何分化、花朵如何簇拥，并观察到叶子背后的不同颜色变化。 但唯有经过亲手绘画，才能用全新的方式了解一株花草，每次 我翻阅这些作品，总不禁会心一笑。 」 walk on the wild side

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FOOD & ART

水墨魔法

the wizard of ink

Jason Logan starts a color revolution with eco-friendly inks made from street-foraged materials.

CO N S I D E R E D O N E of humanity’s greatest inventions, ink, down through the centuries and across civilizations, has eased the flow of communication in every field from accounting to fine art. And it seems that even well into the twenty-first century, this ancient and essential liquid is still in a state of creative flux.

Canadian illustrator and art director Jason Logan, who has done work for corporate icons like The New York Times , National Geographic , Apple, and Google, is today the founder of and innovative force behind the Toronto Ink Company. Based out of his home kitchen, which doubles as an experimental laboratory, Logan works with an endless variety of urban detritus to formulate custom inks used in everything from advertising art to the printing of literary works.

The components, including Indian food-grade shellac and Canadian Shield wintergreen, are natural, and most are foraged from city wilds, those metropolitan niches where nature manages to keep a foothold.

“When I became a father, I developed an interest in working with nontoxic art supplies,” explains Logan. “One day, in a park on my way to work, I found a tree labeled ‘black walnut.’ I collected the hulls and made some beautiful brown-black ink. That was my gateway drug to natural ink.”

He funneled the surplus from that first batch into little two-ounce bottles adorned with elegant handmade labels. They were sent off to artists he admired, and their enthusiastic response to the artisanal fluid spurred him on.

Now Logan makes inks from such diverse resources as rusty nails, powdery reclaimed drywall, and wild plants traditionally used to make natural dyes. Each one-of-a-kind recipe is a liquid representation of the specific place in which the ingredients were found. “I’ve used the foraged mush left behind from turmeric pulping,” he says. With a little alcohol, it becomes a bright yellow. My very favorite is wild grape – delicious, intense, changeable, and richly colored on the paper.”

Half a decade since his initial foray and following the 2018 release of his inspirational book, Make Ink: A Forager’s Guide to Natural Inkmaking , Logan is looking ahead to the time when he can focus all his attention on his passion project. “The ink maker,” he says, “is part inventor, part historian and naturalist, part graphic designer and creative director. And there’s also physics – and a little wizardry – along the way.”

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墨水一直是人类史上最伟大的发明之一。自 从有了墨水，各行各业的沟通交流都变得更 容易。即使是科技化的现代，依然有人用这 种古老的液体发挥着创意，试着玩出新花样。

Jason Logan 是加拿大的插画家兼艺术 总监，身为多伦多墨水公司创办人，亦是公 司背后的创新动力，合作对象包括《纽约时 报》 、 《国家地理频道》 、苹果公司及 Google 公司等。草创时期的自家厨房工作室，如今 已扩建为两倍大的实验室。

Jason 将城市角落数不清的废弃物，转 化成能用作广告看板、文字印刷的客制化墨 水。原料包括印度食用级虫漆、产自加拿大 地盾的冬青油等，皆为天然产品，大多取自 城郊绿地，是水泥丛林中大自然仅剩的立足 「为人父后，我更重视无 之地。Jason 解释 ： 毒美术用品。某天上班途中经过一棵公园内 的树，树上写着『黑核桃』 ，我取下一些核桃 壳带回实验室，美丽的深咖啡色墨水就此诞 生。这次经验让我逐渐迷上天然墨水。 」 于是，他将第一批剩余墨水用漏斗装进 两盎司的小瓶中，贴上精美的手工标签，送 给他欣赏的艺术家。没想到反应相当热烈， 他因此大受鼓舞。现在 Jason 更试过用生锈 的铁钉、粉化的回收石膏板以及作为天然染 料的野生植株来造墨。每种独一无二的配方、 每滴墨水，都诉说着原料来自何方。他说 ： 「我还曾去搜集姜黄捣烂制浆所留下的烂泥来 造墨，加一点酒精，就会呈现艳丽的亮黄色。 不过我最爱的还是野生葡萄，既有趣又浓厚 且变幻莫测，印在纸上显色相当清晰饱满。 」 从五年前的首次尝试，到 2018 年出版 他的励志书，Jason 展望未来，希望能将所 有心力投注在墨水上。他说 ： 「造墨师其实是 发明家、史学家、博物学者、平面设计师及 创意总监的综合体。还要懂物理与魔法。 」

JASON LOGAN

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INSPIRED LIVING

土木成材

of wood and earth Natural finds take on new life in one-of-a-kind ceramic tableware.

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制陶师 Kristen Gentilucci 的创业过程透出自然气息， 与她所使用的材料可谓异曲同工。她说 ： 「当陶瓷开 始渗入我的人生，我所做的不过是不停的创作与贩 售罢了。这个过程神奇而缓慢，我满腔的热情逐渐 转变为我的事业。 」她创办的工作室 Stubborn Dog

Pottery 正蓬勃发展，店名便是取自她养的顽强小狗 Rusty。 「动手造物是我自幼以来的兴趣，始 Kristen 说 ： 终如一。 」大学毕业取得设计学位后，她报名参加了 当地的陶艺课。货架上数不清的锅子、马克杯及饭碗， 象征她所付出的巨大努力，也让她有了一批愿意购 买她作品的粉丝。除自家工作室外，Kristen 也在加 州大学伯克利分校的陶艺系担任制陶技术员，藉此 她得以感受学生热情，所以她热爱这份工作。 她小巧的工作室就坐落在位于旧金山湾东岸伯 克利山的家中，在长宽不过五、十呎的阳台上，被 葱郁的树林及午后和煦的阳光围绕，随兴一瞥还能 「这里就是 看见许多林间小道的入口。Kristen 说 ： 我的天堂，带给我无穷灵感，更让我得以暂时逃离 那道路尽头喧嚣嘈杂的水泥丛林。 」

Kristen 自主开发釉料，偏爱大地色系，从黑山

ALISON YIN (2)

LIKE THE MEDIUM SHE WORKS IN, potter Kristen Gentilucci’s business took form organically. “As ceramics began to infiltrate my life,” she says, “I just kept making and selling things. Slowly and magically, my passion became my business.” Her thriving studio, Stubborn Dog Pottery, was named for her pertinacious pooch, Rusty.

“From a young age, I’ve always loved making things with my hands,” she says. After graduating college with a design degree, Gentilucci joined a local pottery class. Uncountable shelves of pots, mugs, and bowls later, she’d grown a following who loved her work and wanted to buy it. Alongside her own venture, Gentilucci works as studio technician in the ceramics department of the University of California, Berkeley, a role she loves for its opportunities to imbibe the student energy.

On the east shore of San Francisco Bay, she has built a petite and practical workshop into the five-by-ten-foot porch of her Berkeley Hills home, surrounded by trees, afternoon sun, and a view of trailheads. “It’s my paradise, my inspiration, and my escape from the bustle of the concrete city right down the road.”

Gentilucci formulates her own glazes, favoring earthy tones that she pairs with a range of clays, from textural Black Mountain to fine-grained porcelain. Her sense of play and affinity for varied

← The Spoons Collection combines clay scoops with handles made of wood foraged in California. 汤匙系列皆是以陶瓷头和在加 州采集的木头手柄制成。

Each handle tells a story of wildfires, white water, blizzards, or voracious insects. 每个木手抦都诉说着与众不同的 故事－它们都受过野火、大海、 风雪或昆虫噬咬的洗礼。

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The trick to creating a perfect match is pairing the shape, size, feel, and character of the scoops and handles. 要创造一只完美的汤匙，关键是 要根据外型、大小、触感及特性， 将木手柄和陶瓷头搭配在一起。

INSPIRED LIVING

materials shines through in her Spoons Collection, an ongoing series of one-offs that combine handformed clay spoon heads with handles made of wood foraged in the Sierra Nevada or along the rugged California coastline.

According to Gentilucci, the trick is marrying the shape, feel, and character of each stick with the size and color of its ceramic companion. A majority of her work is glazed only on the inside, a Stubborn Dog signature of sorts that contrasts rustic wood against the distinctive raw textures of unglazed fired clay and hints of the earth it came from.

The best handles, she says, have individuality that tells a story. Some were washed down turbulent rivers or were long buried under layers of ice and snow; others have withstood raging fires or were gouged and tunneled by voracious bark beetles. Despite their former adventures in the wild, the finished spoons seem right at home in more domesticated settings as scoops for tea or coffee, serving bowls for nuts or olives, or ladles for cozy winter soups.

的粗糙泥土，到细致平滑的瓷土，都曾尝试搭配使 用。她对不同材料及属性的掌控与理解，在她的汤 匙系列中展露无遗。该系列为不断推陈出新且独一 无二的作品，皆由手工烧制的陶瓷汤匙头，配上来 自内华达山脉或加州蜿蜒海岸的原木制握柄。

Kristen 透露，制作关键是将每根木棍独特的 外型、触感及特性，与陶瓷头的大小、色泽搭配在 一起。大部分作品只有内部上釉，以彰显工作室特 有的原木纯色与无釉生陶色的对比，生陶的泥土原 色亦象征孕育原木的大地之母。 她说，最棒的木手把一定要有个性、有故事。 有些木头曾在湍急的河流中翻腾，有些则长年冰封 在层层冰雪之下，更有些是经历烈火洗礼，还有的 甚至遭遇过饥饿蠹虫的啃食挖掘。尽管在荒野中经 历过如此丰富的冒险故事，成品依然能完美融入家 中摆设，也许作为搅拌茶或咖啡的小汤匙，也许是 乘载着坚果或橄榄的菜碗，当然也可以是舀出一碗 碗冬日暖汤的勺子。

ALISON YIN (2)

Kristen Gentilucci

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瑰丽窑藏

Organic Alchemy An Australian ceramist forages bush and coastline to create unique tableware for restaurants and homes.

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INSPIRED LIVING

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MADE OF AUSTRALIA began in a tiny patio space with a kiln sitting just a meter from a neighbor’s clothesline. Founder Anna-Marie Wallace, who first sat down at a potter’s wheel only seven years ago, now oversees a spacious studio in an eco-industrial estate in southeast Queensland.

For both stoneware and porcelain pieces, Wallace employs a variety of methods with her native Australian clays: wheel throwing, hand building with slabs or coils, carving from solid blocks in a process called kurinuki , and pressing and slip casting in molds for largequantity orders and collections or when uniformity is required for stacking.

Combining so many different methods is considered unusual, but Wallace has never been conventional.

“Just as I like to fuse different cooking styles to create interesting flavor combinations,” she says, “I like to merge traditional ceramic techniques from around the world with modern methods.”

She has even worked with a laboratory specializing in nanotechnology to develop an invisible sealer, dubbed Liquid Quartz, that permeates the clay body of her pieces and makes them waterproof, stain resistant, and food safe.

It’s when she comes to firing her work, however, that things get downright sorcerous. Pieces are high-fired in an electric kiln until fully vitrified and then fired again in a gas kiln after each

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创办人 Anna-Marie Wallace 七年前才挽起袖子坐 在拉坯机前，如今已是昆士兰东南部生态工业园内一 家大型工作室的总监。 不论是石器或是瓷器，Anna-

Marie 都采用多重制程将澳洲本地陶土塑型，其中包括 拉坯法、泥板盘绕手筑法、整块雕刻的掏空手塑法、因 需求量大或统一性而产生的高压注浆和注浆成型法。 一般来说，很少人一次结合这么多种方法，但 「如同我做菜 Anna-Marie 本来就不循规蹈矩。她说 ： 喜欢融合各方元素创造有趣的风味搭配，制陶时我也 喜欢用现代方式融会世上各种技术。 」有次，她甚至与 一间专精纳米科技的实验室合作，研发隐形底漆，命

COURTESY MADE OF AUSTRALIA (4 + PRECEDING PAGE )

piece has been fitted into a container called a saggar, packed full of indigenous Australian organic materials. As these burn away in the intense heat, Wallace explains, chemical reactions “create unique and unpredictable colors, patterns, and textures on what would otherwise be a blank canvas.”

The elements are sourced from all over the country, though many are gathered by hand right in the studio’s backyard.

Favorite bush materials include pandanus, bunya, macadamia, casuarina, eucalyptus, and myrtle, as well as waste from the processing of food plants like finger limes, native peanuts, and tamarind. From the shoreline come dugong seagrass, seaweeds like golden kelp and Neptune’s pearls, and washed-up corals and seashells. Animal kingdom curiosities may include scat, feathers, a crocodile’s shed skin, or eggshells from local birds like magpies, geese, or emus.

“Whether the pieces emerge from the ashes whispering quietly of their origins or screaming loudly, the results are always pure alchemy,” says Wallace. “The markings are a vaporized homage to what was destroyed.”

Made OF Australia‘s popularity with chefs began with a collaboration with Adelaide restaurant Orana, whose food waste was used to create the markings on their plates. Partnerships followed at venues like Michelin-starred Dialogue in California and Lowe at KOA Canvas in Dubai. “Making ceramic tableware,” says Wallace, “has been a great way for me to merge two of my favorite things – food and art. It’s humbling to be able to inspire the chefs who inspire me.”

名为 Liquid Quartz。这种漆料能渗透陶器本体，使陶 器防水、抗污，更能安全盛装食物。若你认为上述已 难以置信，那她烧陶的过程可说是如魔法般神奇。陶 土先在电窑中经过高温培烧，直到彻底玻化，将这些 富含澳洲原生有机物的陶土半成品塞满烧箱后，再放 进瓦斯窑中烧一次。Anna-Marie 解释，随着高温烈火 的淬链，其中的化学反应会让陶土产生不可预测的独 特色彩、图形及质地，而非毫无区别的空白画布。 这些有机原料来自全国各地，绝大部分手工采集 自工作室自家后院。常见的灌木材料有露兜树、 南美杉、 夏威夷果仁、木麻黄、桉树以及桃金娘，有时也包含 食用植物如手指青柠、本土花生及酸豆取用过程产生 的废料。 来自海岸线的材料则有儒艮海草、金海带、 海王珍珠海带，还有冲上岸的珊瑚礁及贝壳。最后是 来自动物王国的奇珍异物如排泄物、羽毛、鳄鱼脱下 的皮，或是喜鹊、鹅及鸸鹋等当地鸟类的蛋壳。Anna「不论从灰烬中抱出的成品是张狂还是内敛 Marie 说 ： 的，结果就如炼金术般神奇且不可控制，陶瓷上的标 记就是有机物汽化后留下的印记。 」

Made OF Australia 能在厨师间打响名声，其实归 功于第一次与阿得莱德的「Orana」餐厅的合作，当时

Anna-Marie 使用餐厅提供的食材废弃物来制作盘碟器 皿。她后续合作对象包括加州的「Dialogue」米其林 星级餐厅、杜拜 KOA Canvas 的「Lowe」等等。Anna「制作陶瓷餐具，完美地结合了我最爱的两 Marie 说 ： 件事 — 食物与艺术。为我的主厨们激发一点回馈的灵 感，这对我来说意义深远、荣幸万分。 」 walk on the wild side

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在地风味

homegrown flavors An illustrious British chef discovers Hong Kong’s flourishing organic farms.

TASTING NOTES

W H E N S I M O N R O G A N first announced he’d

be bringing his signature culinary ethos, with its emphasis on impeccably grown local produce, to Hong Kong, he was met by a chorus of doubters.

After all, he’d made his name in the UK by crafting menus driven by foraged herbs and flowers and ingredients from nearby sources. His Lake District restaurants in particular, two-Michelinstarred L’Enclume, one-Michelin-starred Rogan & Co, and development kitchen Aulis at L’Enclume, feature fruits and vegetables that are almost entirely supplied by Rogan-owned Our Farm in Cartmel Valley, which he describes as designed, built, run, and controlled by and for chefs.

A number of years ago, Rogan and his team, who were frustrated with the poor-quality produce raised in the northwest at the time, had taken to growing their own. “Finding a decent radish, which is the easiest thing in the world to grow, was very, very difficult.” Beginning with radishes, they soon went on to carrots, and, before long, brassicas, cabbages, lettuces, turnips, and much, much more.

The initial goal was to supply their restaurants with perfect produce grown according to their exacting specifications. “We pick bits and parts in the sizes we want,” says Rogan, “everything from the roots and stems to the leaves and flowers. And we plant them so it isn’t all growing and maturing at the same time. There’s always succession.”

Eventually their work as farmers began shaping their philosophy as chefs. “Over the years,” he says, “as we’ve gotten better at growing, our food has gotten a lot simpler. We’re very much of the belief that less is more and flavor is everything.”

Rogan admits that in the past he has been guilty of overly clever deconstructions and reconstructions of dishes. “Now we’re more respectful of the ingredients and of nurturing along their natural flavors.”

Chef-Patron Simon Rogan

知名英国主厨 Simon Rogan 近日首次宣布要将重用当地农产的 招牌烹饪理念引进香港。当时，许多人都持半信半疑的态度。 毕竟，他曾运用野外采集的香草花卉以及就近汲取的食材，在 英国打造出声名远播的菜单。尤其是位于湖区米其林二星的 「L’Enclume」餐厅、一星的「Rogan&Co」餐厅，以及研发厨房 ， 其 蔬 果 几 乎 都 是 由 Simon 位 于 卡 特 梅 「Aulis at L’Enclume」 尔村的农场 Our Farm 所供应，那是一座由厨师所设计、建造、

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

经营和管理，专为厨师而存在的农场。 ← Codfish with black garlic emulsion, cauliflower, brassica, and long beans, finished with seaweed sauce 鳕鱼配黑蒜乳、花椰菜、甘蓝和长豆，佐海藻酱

多年前，Simon 与其团队对当时西北部所产的劣质农产品 感到心灰意冷，于是他们决定亲力亲为。他说 ： 「萝卜非常容易 种植， 但要找到好的品种来种植却很困难。 」一开始只种了萝卜， 接着还有胡萝卜，不久后又有甘蓝、卷心菜、莴苣、芜菁等等。

Simon 最初的目标是生产出满足严苛要求的完美农产品，

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For his London restaurants, Roganic and Aulis London, Rogan casts a wider net. “Being in the capital city, we allow the whole of the UK a bit of the action,” he says, qualifying that all his ingredients come from trusted, long-standing suppliers. By extension, Roganic Hong Kong and Aulis Hong Kong were to feature whatever he might be able to find in Hong Kong and China, with the remainder supplemented by imports from the UK and Europe.

Rogan was satisfied with his tentative plan until he made a happy discovery. “We had literally just landed in Hong Kong,” he says, “and our partners took us from the airport straight to a tour of the organic farms in New Territories.

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供应给自家餐厅。他说 ： 「一切从根茎到花叶都是依照我们 需求来挑选并种植，因此会有不同的成长和熟成时间，但总 会不断地延续下去。 」他们如农夫般的付出最终形塑了主厨 「多年来，我们日益熟稔于种植，我们 的理念。Simon 说 ： 的料理也随之变得更加简洁利落，深信少即是多以及风味就 是一切。 」Simon 坦言自己过去曾过度执着于解构和重建料 理。他称 ： 「现在我们更加尊重食材本身，依循其天然风味 创作料理。 」 为了伦敦的「Roganic」和「Aulis London」两家餐厅， 「由于位于首都，所以整 Simon 更是布下天罗地网。他说 ： 个英国都是可以运用的资源。 」所有食材皆来自可信且长期 的 供 应 商。 香 港 的「Roganic Hong Kong」 和「Aulis Hong

TASTING NOTES

← Poached crab meat with brown crab sauce, pan-fried cabbage, and crispy chicken skin, finished with horseradish cream with dill oil and borage flowers 炖蟹肉配棕色蟹酱、香煎白菜 和酥脆鸡皮，佐由莳萝油 和琉璃苣花调制而成的辣根酱 ↗ Yogurt sorbet with English strawberry syrup, topped with yogurt-and-strawberry-powder meringues and apple marigold 优格雪酪佐英式草莓糖浆， 摆上优格草莓粉制的蛋白脆饼 和苹果金盏花 → Simon Rogan’s signature grilled salad of cooked and smoked brassicas, served with truffle custard and Westcombe cheese sauce

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Simon Rogan的招牌烟熏炙 烧甘蓝沙拉，佐松露酱和威 斯康比芝士酱

We were surprised to see there were so many. There’s a lot of care and method that goes into the farming here – I’ve been quite impressed. And the markets are amazing.” Aside from some dried goods and pickled and freeze-dried ingredients that provide flavors of the Lake District, he has found that he doesn’t need to import much after all. “As far as fruits and vegetables, we’ve got everything we want here.”

The Hong Kong team has lately been raving about the local green peas and telling Rogan they might even be better than what the UK can turn out. Convinced they were joking, he tried them for himself. “True enough, they’re tasty as hell.”

Kong」也与伦敦店如出一辙，将专注于呈现在香港和中国 可寻的本地食材，只有少部分会从英国和欧洲引进。

Simon 对他当时的计划感到很满意，但后来他发现了 更好的选项。他说 ： 「才刚抵达香港，合伙人便直接带我们 从机场去参观新界的有机农场。 当我们看到有这么多个农 场，都感到惊讶，而令我印象深刻的是，他们在种植上用尽 心力和方法。 」除了需要一些带有湖区风味的干货、腌制品 和急冻干燥食材，他发现其实不需要进口太多食材。Simon 说： 「就蔬果而言，香港已具备我们想要的一切。 」最近香港 团队一致推崇本地绿豌豆，并告诉 Simon，这甚至可能比英 国所产的豌豆还好。起初他觉得是对方在开玩笑，但亲自尝 了一口后，他便说 ： 「果不其然，真的很美味迷人。 」 walk on the wild side

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荒野行者

walk on the wild side An experienced forager explores the natural bounty in Hong Kong’s backyard.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

“This is the Indian gooseberry I was telling you about,” says Wanda Huang, letting out a muted whoop of joy as she spots a small tree bearing clusters of pale yellow-green fruits the size of blueberries. They, along with the plant’s seeds, flowers, leaves, roots, and bark, are used in Ayurvedic medicine, and the berries are commonly pickled or candied in a number of regional Indian cuisines.

“They’re so loaded with vitamin C, they’re incredible!” she says.

“Unfortunately, these are still too small and sour to eat. When it’s about twice this size, you pop it in your mouth and it starts out astringent and yucky.

But after about a minute, your whole mouth salivates, and then it tastes sweet for a long time.”

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FORAGING

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We’d already passed hundreds of the trees lining the trail leading from Tai O fishing village to the abandoned farmlands of Yi O’s old and new villages. But Huang hadn’t bothered pointing them out, since a typhoon a few weeks earlier had likely stripped them of their fruit. “So we’re really, really lucky to see this one today,” she says. “Sometimes I never know what I’ll find.”

In fact, Huang knows of another location where a forest of Indian gooseberry grows. But her earnest delight in encountering a single fruitbearing tree along the coastline path perfectly conveys her emotional connection with the land’s living resources and how even she as a professional forager is subject to the whims of nature.

Farther down the path, Huang spots yet another gooseberry tree, this one with a lone fruit dangling from a branch midway up. Even with her pointing, it takes us a full minute to locate the berry among the fluttering leaves.

“I read an article about different types of intelligence,” she says, “like musical or mathematical intelligence. Naturalist intelligence is the ability to recognize leaves and plants. It really impacted human development, but somehow we’ve lost it a bit. The article was saying that we have to teach this to kids at a much younger age, so they can learn and absorb it.”

Huang is able to trace back at least five generations of Chinese herbalists on her father’s side. When as a girl she visited her grandparents in Guangdong, they introduced her to herbs and let her explore the drawers in the apothecary shop. “We heard the conversations and smelled the herbs in the air and tasted them in the soup. It was just a part of life growing up.”

The family on her mother’s side were farmers in China and then in Canada. Huang was close to her grandparents and naturally gravitated toward farming, often carrying a little basket and following her grandmother to pick pine mushrooms and wild vegetables. In Northern Ontario, her father frequently took Huang and her younger brother on days-long canoe trips where they learned outdoor survival skills like foraging for vegetables and catching, gutting, and roasting fish. “I really lucked out,” she says. “I was introduced to leaves and plants at a very young age, so my ability to recognize and distinguish them is better than average.”

Today, Huang is a veteran forager who regularly scours the fields and forests surrounding abandoned farmlands on Lantau Island, where she has access to more than eight hectares of uncultivated agricultural land owned by Yi O Organic Farm, and in New Territories, where she has similar arrangements with E-Farm and several smaller village farms.

She searches for wild vegetables, herbs, flowers, fruits, and nuts for personal consumption and on behalf of a handful of restaurant and bar clients, including Uwe, Chomchomyomyom, John Anthony, and Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.

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「这个就是我跟你说过的余甘 子。 」Wanda Huang 一 边 说， 一 边对着身旁这一小株果树发出了 轻轻的欢呼声。这株果树结满了 成串淡黄绿色的、蓝莓般大小的 果 实。 这 种 植 物 的 果 实、种 子、 花、叶、根、树皮是「阿育吠陀 疗法」中相当常见的材料，果实 更是印度料理中常加以腌渍或做 成蜜饯的美食原料。

她接着解释说 ： 「小小一颗却拥 有非常惊人的维他命 C 含量！可 惜，这些果实还不够成熟，吃起 来肉少且酸。等到约两倍大时， 虽然刚入口会有些微的难以下咽 与苦涩味，但一分钟后，口中开 始不断生津流涎，唇齿间香甜萦 绕、回甘许久。 」

The prickly ash, although related to Sichuan peppers, offers much more. The berries taste sweet at first, with notes of citrus-lime. Then the flavor becomes intensely savory before finishing with a numbing sensation similar to Sichuan pepper. 美洲花椒虽然是四川花椒的近亲，滋味却比它还丰富。这种花椒一入口，甜味迸发，伴随柑橘青 柠香。一瞬间，气味骤变，强烈的香辣味窜出，随后再逐渐转为四川花椒般的唇齿麻木感。

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FORAGING

“This year has been a little odd with all that rain and then the heat suddenly coming up,” she says. As a result, her harvest had already dwindled by the end of April. By that point, many of the herbs and small leafy plants she began foraging in February were too mature. And most of the flowers had already bloomed but hadn’t yet produced the berries, nuts, and seeds that she’ll gather when the season picks up again in the fall.

“There are some things that are really quite regular,” says Huang. “It isn’t 100 percent guaranteed, but the chefs that I work with know that in

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从大澳渔村出发，不知不觉中，团队已 沿着小径，穿过上百株余甘子，到达二澳新、 旧村内的废弃农地。 但几周前袭击香港的台 风，已将大多数的余甘子果实击落。她说： 「如 今能看到一株还保有果实的个体，实属幸运， 每趟采集的收获都难以预料。 」 其实，Wanda 还知道另一片长有余甘子 的树林。但仅仅从她遇见这单一株长在海边小 路的余甘子，表情中真切的欣喜，已让我们由

March and April, I’ll be able to bring those in.” One is burr marigold, with tender leaves she cooks like bok choy and flower petals that are sprinkled over dishes for showy presentation as well as the delicate flavor they lend. The iron-rich leaves and stems of wild amaranth taste beautiful when sautéed in butter, and the cooked seeds Huang likens to crunchy caviar. Mildly tart pink and yellow wood sorrel flowers and its leaves can be added to soups and salads or used as a seasoning. And pungent Cuban oregano, also known as Indian borage, is used in Sri Lanka as a meat tenderizer and in Malaysia as a remedy for sore throats.

衷感受到她对这块土地上的生态资源怀有的真 挚情感，也让我们了解，即使是专业如她的采 集者，依然得看天吃饭。 继续往小径深处探寻，Wanda 发现了另 一株余甘子，由树干中间延伸出的树枝上，单 一颗果实正在那晃动。她努力地指明位置，我 们却还是花了整整一分钟，才在随风摇摆的枝 叶间，看出果实的所在。她说 ： 「曾读过一篇 有关多元智慧的文章，有音乐智慧、数学智慧 walk on the wild side

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Young shoots of the toona tree, much in demand in Taiwan and mChina, currently sell for seventy yuan a pound. They offer an intense and lingering mushroom flavor and a hint of sweetness that comes through after a minute. 在台湾和中国内地，香椿树的嫩枝很受 欢迎，每磅价钱大约是七十元。它们带 有非常浓郁的蘑菇味道，咀嚼一会儿 后，会在持续的蘑菇味中渗出一丝香甜。

“Sometimes when I find amazing things, I’ll take a photo and send it to the chefs to tell them they need to try it. The first time I sent the shell ginger flower to Chef Uwe Opocensky, he was like, great, what do I do with it?” Huang suggested taking a cue from the Southeast Asian culinary practice of shredding it and sprinkling it on rice or using it in a rendang . She has also introduced the idea of wrapping sticky rice and coconut in shell ginger leaves to impart some of its warm aromatics along with a light green tint. At restaurant Uwe, Opocensky has addressed the flower’s challenging chewy texture with a pickling process that softens it.

While traveling in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, Huang learned that locals there pound shell ginger seeds to release their unique taste into soups and rice. “They have the flavors of ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, and vanilla all in one seed,” she says. “It’s phenomenal! The seeds are now the number one thing we’re really after from the shell ginger plant.”

At The Krug Room, Chef Robin Zavou has adapted the ingredient to

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等等。而其中自然智慧，说的便是能观察、分辨 植物种类的能力。这在人类演化史上可是至关重 大的能力，如今却在一点一滴流失。文章更指出， 这种能力应于年幼时及早培养，才能学得更快、 理解更深。 」

Wanda 的父亲家族至少有五代都是从事中 医。小时候到广东拜访祖父母，他们就会介绍一 些药草给她认识，还让她在中药铺里自由地探索 「我的所见、所闻、所尝， 百子柜。Wanda 说 ： 药草无所不在。我的成长过程充满着药草香。 」 至于母亲家族，则先后在中国及加拿大务 农。Wanda 也同样地与外祖父母相处融洽，对农 业亦是天生兴趣浓厚，经常带上小篓子就与外祖 母到树林里采松茸、拔野菜。在北安大略省的日 子，爸爸会定期找 Wanda 和她弟弟一起划着独 木舟，展开好几天的探险之旅。她的许多野外求

FORAGING

his modern style in glass-domed dishes that swirl with aromatic smoke from smoldering crushed shell ginger seeds.

“Often a new ingredient I introduce to a chef won’t be very popular during the first season,” says Huang. “But they continue experimenting with it, and by the next season, with customer demand, they’re asking, ‘Can you get more of it?’”

Huang pauses at a tall bush laden with clusters of green berries like peppercorns. The prickly ash, she tells us, although related to Sichuan pepper, offers much more. When first bitten into, the berry’s taste is sweet with notes of citrus-lime. The flavor then changes to intensely savory before finishing with a numbing sensation similar to Sichuan pepper.

Unlike peppercorns and peppers, prickly ash berries lose their flavor as they ripen and then dry. To preserve it, Huang makes an infused oil by immersing the berries in a light vegetable oil for six months.

生技巧，如搜集蔬菜、抓鱼、去内脏、烤鱼的技术， 都是在这时候逐渐练成。她说 ： 「我可能修了三 生的福气，小时候才有这么多贵人带我认识这 些花花草草，我才能练就较为出众的自然智慧。 」 时 至 今 日，Wanda 的 老 练 身 影 常 驻 在 大 屿 山 的 荒 废 农 地 附 近， 穿 梭 于 田 地 与 森 林 之 间。超过八公顷的休耕农地属二澳有机农场所 有，即是她的巡守范围。而在邻近的新界，她 也与川上农庄及许多村庄小农合作，同样在农 地里探寻所需。搜索目标包括野菜、药草、花 朵、果实及坚果，除了留为自用，不少餐厅与 酒吧都引颈翘望，等着她带回来的天然野生植 、 「Chomchomyomyom」 、 「John 物， 包括「UWE」

Anthony 庄馆」及香港文华东方酒店。

Indian gooseberries are loaded with vitamin C. The grape-size mature berries are overly astringent at first, but they soon trigger salivation, and the flavor morphs into a lasting sweetness. 余甘子小小一颗却拥有惊人的维他命 C 含 量。待它成熟至葡萄大小，刚入口会有些 微苦涩味，但一分钟后，口中开始不断生 津流涎，唇齿间香甜萦绕、回甘许久。

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“It’s nice to mince up the berries,” she says. “I know Uwe has done it with both pâté and steak. It adds such a unique flavor and often leads to wonderful conversations with customers about where it came from.

“I also forage it for the bar at John Anthony in Causeway Bay. They use it in their drinks to encourage customers to think about the flavor and the aroma and to enjoy how it plays with the different senses.”

Huang revels in the foraging renaissance that’s currently burgeoning around the world and in Hong Kong to a lesser extent. But she also laments the dichotomy between the ways two groups with whom she regularly interacts view the same wild products. While the residents, mainly elderly, share their localized knowledge of “survival foods for the poor and uneducated,” chefs and diners at high-end restaurants “ooh and ahh over foraged edibles.”

When Huang first arrived in Hong Kong fifteen years ago, she went hiking through Tai Long Wan village on Lantau Island and stopped to inspect and smell a wild pepper leaf that she recognized from her travels in Thailand. An old woman walked up, asking how she knew about the plant and sharing her own story. “She told me,” recalls Huang, “‘I ate this plant during the Japanese invasion when we had absolutely no food. Our parents got us to go out and forage at night, just wild things that we tried and lived on for several months.’ I spent the afternoon with her and learned things that I probably wouldn’t be able to find in books. Now I’ve got some of that oral history recorded.”

On her hikes through New 「今年的降雨不同寻常，温度也突然攀升。 」所以早在四 Wanda 说 ： Territories, Huang has had many similar experiences of meeting older women who shared their knowledge of how to wash, cook, and serve various wild plants. Although she admits that many aren’t the tastiest of foods and that she wouldn’t suggest them to the chefs, Huang continues to add the information to her personal repertoire.

She has even paid a guide to take her on a three-day foraging trip through the mountains of Yunnan, China. “It breaks my heart,” says Huang, “that those like the Bai minority in Yunnan – probably the people most experienced with wild edibles that I’ve ever met – don’t think it’s valuable knowledge that needs to be passed on.

“I feel like I’ve become the keeper of this information. Someday I’d like to write a book to preserve it for future generations.”

月底前，收获已逐渐减少。那时，她从二月才开始采收的药草、小型叶菜 都已过熟。大多数的花都开了，却不见秋天采收季来临前该长出来的浆果、 坚果及种子。 她称 ： 「有些收获算是稳定，虽然没有百分百保证，但合作的主厨们 都预期约三、四月会收到一批产品。 」这批产品的其中一样是鬼针草，菜 叶柔嫩，煮法与小白菜雷同，而鲜艳的花瓣，则可洒在料理成品上，不仅 赏心悦目，也增添一股微妙风味。野苋菜富含铁质的茎与叶，用黄油稍微 炒一下就非常美味，煮过的种子更被 Wanda 比喻为脆口的鱼子酱。微酸 的黄粉色酢浆花朵与叶，适合入汤或沙拉，也可作为调味。辛辣的左手香， 又称为印度琉璃苣，在斯里兰卡用来当作肉品嫩化剂，在马来西亚更被用 来治疗喉咙痛。 「每当我有新奇发现，就会拍张照寄给主厨们，请他们 Wanda 续称 ： 一定要试试。像我第一次寄月桃给『Uwe』的 Uwe Opocensky 主厨，他 的反应就像 ： 『好的，很不错，但我该拿它怎么办？』 」Wanda 建议 Uwe 主厨可以效仿东南亚的道地做法，将月桃花切碎洒在饭上，或是加到仁当

(rendang) 里。她也介绍了将糯米与椰肉包入月桃叶的方式，将月桃的暖 透过腌渍， 心芳香及淡绿颜色沁入里头的食材。后来 Uwe 主厨更举一反三， 软化了月桃花过于嚼劲十足的口感。 有次在台湾高雄旅游，Wanda 就学到当地人将月桃种子打碎，让独 特香气融入汤与饭里的做法。她回忆道 ： 「种子有姜、肉豆蔻、肉桂、香 草的香气，简直就是美味的大熔炉！于是我们现在都专攻月桃种子，反而 少用其他部份了。 」 「库克厅」的 Robin Zavou 主厨，则将月桃种子融入他 的现代玻璃盖料理，盖中缭绕的芳香烟雾就是碎月桃种子闷烧后的熏烟。 「通常介绍一款新食材给主厨，第一季都不会太受欢迎，但经 Wanda 说 ： 过不断创新、试验，到下一季时，禁不起顾客哀求的主厨们总会问我： 『那 个还有没有啊？』 」

Wanda 驻足在一丛长满一串串如黑胡椒般的绿浆果果树前。她说， 这是美洲花椒，是四川花椒的近亲，滋味却比它还丰富。这种花椒一入口， 甜味迸发，伴随柑橘青柠香。一瞬间，气味骤变，强烈的香辣味窜出，随 后再逐渐转为四川花椒般的唇齿麻木感。不同于黑胡椒与花椒，美洲花椒

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的气味会随著成熟与水分的流失而变淡。为了保有独特 气味，Wanda 自制浸泡油，将美洲花椒泡入清淡的植物 油中六个月。 她认为 ： 「将花椒剁碎也是个好办法，我知道像 Uwe 主厨就有把花椒剁碎来为肉酱与牛排调味。不仅增添风 味，还能开启话题，顾客总会好奇地问那独特的香气从 何而来。铜锣湾的『John Anthony 庄馆』也是花椒的爱 好者，他们会将我寄的花椒与饮品结合，请顾客细细体 会箇中滋味与香气，享受多重感官刺激。 」 原始采集法受全球追捧，在香港掀起了一定风潮。 尽管 Wanda 对此喜见乐闻，她仍感叹为何同样的天然野 味，在两个她经常接触的群体眼中，却有着天与地的差别。 大多数的当地居民，多为长者，觉得这是「穷人、野人 的食物」 ，而高档餐厅的主厨与顾客，却视之如「野外的 瑰宝、馈赠」 。 十 五 年 前，Wanda 刚 到 香 港， 在 一 趟 大 屿 山 大 浪 湾村的健行中，她发现一种在泰国曾见过的野生辣椒叶， 于是驻足查看、嗅闻。这时一名老婆婆走上前，问她是 「她 如何得知这种植物，并分享她的故事。Wanda 回想道： 告诉我，她在日军侵略，四处找不到食物时吃过这种植物。 当时她父母与她们趁着黑夜掩护，到外面找些野菜来吃， 就这么靠它过了好几个月。与她聊了整个下午，我学到 了一些也许在书上都遍寻不着的知识。我还保存一些当 时的口述历史录音呢。 」 后来在新界四处探险，Wanda 也同样遇到许多乐于 分享的老妇，告诉她怎么洗、怎么煮、怎么摆这些野菜。 虽然不是每种作法都真的那么好吃，美味程度亦不足以 让餐厅主厨们效法，却还是能让她心中的草药秘笈更加 精采。 有次 Wanda 甚至花钱请一位响导，带她在中国云南 的层峦叠嶂之间，进行为期三天的采集之旅。Wanda 说 ： 「云南白族是我遇过最了解野外食物的民族。当得知他们 竟然认为这样宝贵的知识没有传给后代的价值时，我心 都碎了。我想， 现在的我已然手握野外知识的钥匙。某天， 我会将这些知识编辑成册，让它们流传百世。 」

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Although many parts of the frangipani plant are toxic, the fragrant blossoms can be eaten raw in salads, steeped in tea, or dipped in batter and fried. 尽管素馨花植株中的许多部分都带有毒素， 但芬芳的花朵可以作为沙拉生吃、浸泡在茶中，或裹上面糊煎炸。

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INGREDIENTS

Earl Grey tea dressing 格雷伯爵茶酱

Farmed watermelon with wild mugwort and wild lemon mint Farmed baby potatoes garnished with foraged artillery clearweed and edible sand 农场小马铃薯，搭配野生 小叶冷水花及食用沙

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农场西瓜配野生 艾草与野生薄荷柠檬

FEATURE

Wild arrowroot with peanut butter and coffee oil topped with fried arrowroot and popped rice 花生酱咖啡油佐野葛根，洒上酥炸葛根及脆米

自然百宝

constant discovery Foraged finds spark the freewheeling creativity of a Sheung Wan chef.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Mixture of farmed lettuces with wild amaranth 农场莴苣搭配野苋菜 Farmed heirloom carrots with wild wood sorrel 自然授粉胡萝卜与野生酢浆草

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“ D A D DY, YO U S H O U L D G O and meet Wanda!” Uwe

Opocensky’s daughter had just returned from an outing at Ark Eden, an eco-education center on Lantau Island. On that day about five years ago, the girl could little have known that her father, who was then executive chef at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, had already been considering how he could integrate the growing, worldwide locavore and foraging movements into his hotel’s culinary offerings. But she was sure he’d want to know all about Wanda Huang’s uncanny talent for finding really good things to eat in nearby fields and forests.

Opocensky, intrigued enough to organize a foraging trip with Huang for himself and his team, was utterly wowed by the experience. “Wanda has an amazing understanding about nature and what’s around,” he says. “I didn’t know where to start in HK, but after I went and talked with her and saw what she was showing us, I thought, oh my God, the possibilities! I asked how I could get some of that stuff and if she’d be interested in supplying us. And that’s where it all started.”

Opocensky’s collaboration with Huang has flourished since he opened Uwe, his independent eponymous restaurant. Free from the constraints of hotel exigencies, Uwe features a continually innovative cuisine driven by the special products that Opocensky is able to source from suppliers he’s developed strong personal relationships with. “If they’ve got it, I’ll buy it, and when I’ve got it, I’ll serve it,” he says. “That’s really how the whole thing works.”

Hokkaido scallop divers call him when they’ve harvested specimens of a certain size. Norwegian fishermen meticulously select and crate langoustines to ensure they arrive halfway around the world alive and kicking. Smallscale organic farmers in Yi O, introduced to him by Huang, grow heirloom vegetables at his request. And Huang herself

Uwe Opocensky 的女儿从大屿山生态教育 中心 Ark Eden 的户外导览回来后，一直嚷

嚷着 ： 「爸爸，你一定要去见见 Wanda ！」 小小脑袋不知道的是，后来成为香港文华 东方酒店行政主厨的爸爸，在约五年前的 那天，心中早已多方设想，考虑如何将席 卷全球的本地取材、原始采集风气，融入 酒店的饮食体验。她只知道，爸爸一定会 很想了解 Wanda Huang 究竟是如何运用过 人天赋，在邻近的荒地、森林找到这么棒 的野生植物。

Uwe 也在好奇心的驱使下，为自己及 整个烹饪团队安排了一次与 Wanda 同行 的采集之旅，结果让他瞠目结舌。他说 ： 「Wanda 对 大 自 然 与 周 遭 环 境 非 常 了 解， 原本不知从香港何处着手的我，通过她的 介绍与对话，便醍醐灌顶，看见无限可能！ 于是，我问起这些瑰宝来自何方，询问她 有没有兴趣供应。这就是我们合作的起源。 」

Uwe 与 Wanda 的合作关系在他的独 立同名餐厅「Uwe」开幕后，变得愈加密 不可分。由于独立于酒店规章之外，Uwe 得以从私交甚好的供应商取得特殊食材， 「Uwe」餐厅的料理也因此不断地超越传统。 他说 ： 「只要他们有货，我肯定买，当天客 人就有口福了。我们的运作其实就这么简 单。 」 采 集 北 海 道 扇 贝 的 潜 水 夫， 一 旦 收 获特定大小的样品，就会通知他。挪威渔 夫同样会将精挑细选过的挪威海鳌虾仔细 装箱，确保送到地球另一端给他时还活蹦 乱 跳。 Wanda 介 绍 的 二 澳 有 机 小 农 们， 也会专门为他种植自然授粉的新鲜蔬菜。

FA R M E D B E E T R O OT B R E S A O L A W I T H F O R A G E D R O S E H I P S , G A R L I C F LOW E R S , A N D W I L D P E P P E R L E AV E S 意式风干农场甜菜，搭配野生玫瑰果、大蒜花及辣椒叶

“The beetroot was always going to be a bresaola, which involved smoking and air-drying. It’s garnished with marinated rose hips and garlic flowers, which are very, very strong in flavor. You eat it like a soft taco, wrapped in fresh or barbecued wild pepper leaves and with a sour cream we make with spring onions from the farm.” 「甜菜总是以意式风干法处理，烟熏与风干为必备程序。腌渍玫瑰果与大蒜花虽作为装饰，却有不容忽视的 强烈风味。吃法如同软塔可， 用新鲜或烤过的野生辣椒叶， 包入上述内馅， 最后配上以自产青葱制成的酸奶油。 」

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INGREDIENTS

continues to surprise him with wild plants she’s ferreted out from abandoned farmlands and wooded areas around Hong Kong.

During the peak foraging seasons in spring and fall, Huang typically delivers her bounty to the restaurant once or twice a week. “She comes in,” Opocensky grins, “opens her bag, and I’m already rubbing my hands together and saying, oh, Wanda, what have you got today? On top of what I normally ask for, she always brings some special treats that she’s found and explains how her father uses them in Chinese medicine or what others do with them. Then we figure out how we want to prepare them. We learn from her, and she learns from us. It’s really fun.”

When she first found a new variety of wild berry, R ATATO U I L L E O F FA R M E D EG G P L A N T, R E D P E P P E R , Opocensky surprised her by gleefully exclaiming, “Oh, my God, CO U R G E T T E , A N D CO U R G E T T E F LOW E R S , W I T H F O R A G E D N A S T U R T I U M F LOW E R S A N D WAT E R C R E SS they’re garden huckleberries!” He’d never seen them in Hong 以 农 场 茄 子 、 红 椒 、 栉 瓜 、 栉 瓜 花 和 野 生 金 莲 花 、 Kong, but he recognized them from past orders he’d received 水芥菜制成的普罗旺斯炖菜 from the US. Of course, some discoveries have been easier to work “This dish is a mixture of what Wanda has foraged for us and what she’s with than others. Opocensky gestures toward a collection of collected from the organic farms. We always look at how we can use yellow-green Indian gooseberries that Huang has shared for whatever she brings in. We combine them and then explain them to the the first time. “We just now got these in,” he says. “They’re guests.” super sour, so we need to work out what we’re going to do with them.” 「这道料理融合了 Wanda 在野外及有机农场所搜集到的各式宝藏。我们 But he isn’t concerned at all that he doesn’t yet know. 总是看她带了什么，再随机应变。想办法发挥创意结合后，再向顾客娓娓 Two weeks earlier, Huang had introduced some exotic-looking 道出箇中奥妙。 」 shell ginger blossoms. “The petals were very hard, and we didn’t know how to deal with them,” he says. “So we talked about it and decided to try pickling G R I L L E D N O R W EG I A N L A N G O U S T I N E W I T H them, and they’ve become absoF O R A G E D B R O N Z E F E N N E L , PA N S Y F LOW E R S , lutely delicious!

S H E L L G I N G E R B LO SS O M S , A N D S E A P U R S L A N E “Working with Wanda gives 烧挪威海鳌虾配野生茴香、三色堇、月桃及海马齿苋 us a creative charge. It’s a constant “The shell ginger blossoms are very hard in texture, but when we pickle discovery. She brings out things them, they get really flavorful. That’s what we put in the langoustine that we’ve never thought about, head, along with the other foraged items, including the sea purslane, and that’s the beauty of foraging. which has a beautiful, saltwatery crunch.”

That’s when you get really excited as a chef.” 「月桃花口感强韧、不易咀嚼，但经过适当腌渍，便能尝到绝妙风味。腌 月桃花与其它植物放置于螯虾头部，其中还包括海马齿苋，其爽脆口感与 淡淡咸味相当出众。 」

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R E D S N A P P E R F R O M F U KU O K A W I T H FA R M E D H E I R LO O M A N D W I L D TO M ATO E S , G A R D E N H U C K L E B E R R I E S , A SS O R T E D F LOW E R S , A N D W I L D PA SS I O N F R U I T 福冈红鲷鱼配自然授粉及野生番茄、黑甜菜、各式食用花和 野生百香果

“We started planting tomatoes on the farm in Yi O, and then the seeds spread and they started growing wild. So we’ve combined them together with wild garden huckleberries, which are actually related to tomatoes. At first bite it’s tomato, but then straightaway afterwards, you get the sweetness of the berry. I find them really interesting. For the dressing, we use the seeds of the tomatoes and foraged local passion fruit.” 「原先我们在二澳的农场种了些番茄，没想到种子散播到农场外，导致 周遭也开始出现野生番茄。我们索性将两者结合，再加入番茄的近亲 – 黑甜菜。这种果实刚入口为番茄味，但很快浆果甜味就会接力窜出。我 认为它很有特色。至于调料，则结合番茄籽及野生百香果。 」

Wanda 自己则是持续穿梭于香港的废弃农地与森林， 用最天然的滋味打开 Uwe 的眼界。 春、秋两季为野外采集的高峰期，Wanda 一个星 「她总是走进 期能送上一至二次产品。Uwe 笑着说 ： 来，打开她的百宝袋。这时我已摩拳擦掌，急切地说 ： 『快让我看看妳今天带了什么好东西？』她总是如期带 给我清单上的产品，再加上一些我从没看过的山林奇 物。当然，她会教我，她父亲是如何将其运用在中药里， 亦会分享其他厨师的料理做法。随后，我们再一起讨 论合适的煮法。我们学植物知识，她学烹饪技巧。教 学相长，乐趣横生。 」 有次她找到新品种的野浆果，Uwe 高兴地惊呼 ： 「我的老天！这不是黑甜菜吗！」Uwe 欢呼声之大，把

Wanda 都吓一跳。此前，他只在某次来自美国的食材 补货中看过，在香港是第一次见到这种植物，所以印 象深刻。 有些食材容易处理，当然也有某些会让人不知该 从何下手。Uwe 边指向 Wanda 这次初次带给他的一串 黄绿色余甘子，边说 ： 「我们刚收到这些果实，它们尝 起来酸到让人脸都揪成一团，我们还在思考该如何入

FA R M E D C E L E R I A C , L E T T U C E , A N D M U S TA R D B LO O M S , W I T H W I L D C A L A M A N S I , F R I E D C A P E R S , A N D M O R E L P OW D E R 农 场 块 根 芹 、 莴 苣 、 芥 花 配 野 生 四 季 柑 、 酥炸酸豆及羊肚菌粉

菜。 」 尽 管 充 满 挑 战， 他 却 一 点 都 不 担 心。 两 周 前， 「当 Wanda 也带了些奇形怪状的月桃花给他。他说 ： 时他们也不知道怎么处理嚼不动的坚硬花瓣，经过讨 论，我们决定将花朵做成腌菜，没想到成品真是人间 美味！」 「与 Wanda 一起工作，就像是开启了 Uwe 又称 ：

“We marinate the celeriac in walnut oil for seventy-two hours, slow cook it, and then let it dry for another forty-eight hours. Then it gets an interesting texture – it becomes very meaty. We dust it with morel powder and top it with fried capers, and guests can squeeze some wild calamansi juice over it.” 「将块根芹放入核桃油中腌渍七十二小时，取出后小火慢炖，再自然晾 干四十八小时。成品口感独特，入口扎实似肉的口感。洒上羊肚菌粉再 放上酥炸酸豆，随顾客喜好，可自行淋上四季柑汁。 」

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创意之门。眼前所见都是崭新的事物。她总是带回意 料之外的产品，恰恰展现了原始采集的迷人之处。这 是会让主厨感到兴奋的时刻。 」

INGREDIENTS

“Wanda brings out things that we’ve never thought about, and that’s the beauty of foraging. That’s when you get really excited as a chef.”

「 Wanda 总是带回意料之外的产

品，恰恰展现了原始采集的迷人之 处。这是会让主厨感到兴奋的时刻。」 UWE OPOCENSKY

ICE CREAM SUNDAE WITH W I L D B A N A N A S , W I L D H O N E Y, A N D FA R M E D M I N T 冰 淇 淋 圣 代 配 野 生 香 蕉 、 野生蜂蜜及农场薄荷

“Wanda brings us wild bananas from time to time. So we grill them and serve them with chocolate ice cream, salted peanuts, chocolate meringue, peanut butter marshmallow, whisky jelly, fresh mint from the farm, and wild honey.” 「有时 Wanda 会带回野生香蕉，我们就会稍微 烤一下，搭配巧克力冰淇淋、盐味花生、巧克 力蛋白霜、花生酱棉花糖、威士忌果冻、农场 直送新鲜薄荷及野生蜂蜜一同上桌。 」

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创意启行

amber’s enlightenment Richard Ekkebus takes his award-winning restaurant in a fresh new direction.

BY CHRIS DWYER

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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INGREDIENTS

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SOME HAVE SUGGESTED that recent changes at Amber have been nothing short of revolutionary, a 180-degree turn from the acclaimed restaurant’s traditional French roots. In spending time with Richard Ekkebus, the heart and mind behind Amber and the culinary director of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, it quickly becomes apparent that the metamorphosis in outlook is rather like the culinary parallel to the historical Age of Enlightenment.

The change is seen first in the organic airy space re-crafted by the original designer, Adam Tihany, one where the accent is placed on discretion, elegance, and lightness of touch. The same could be said of the brilliantly plated fresh produce emanating from a state-of-the-art kitchen unsurpassed in Asia.

Ekkebus talks with passion about his rethinking of Amber, an approach based squarely on his continuing emphasis on total sustainability and ultimate respect for his ingredients. “I just wanted to have the lightness that I felt in Asian meals,” he says. “Every generation has this evolution. In the 1970s, it was nouvelle cuisine, then in the ’80s, we had Ferran Adrià with avant-garde cuisine. So I think it’s time we start to think about how people feel when they leave the table. Are we taking accountability for them? I want them, after every dish, to have the desire for a little spoon more. I want them to be as excited at the last stage to give my pastry chef the same fair chance as the guys had in the appetizer section.”

As always with Ekkebus, it’s also about the dining experience: “There’s a real demand for a much more experiential meal, a little bit of theater without being gimmicky. People are also struggling with the two-and-a-half-hour sort of dining experience. Halfway through the dinner, we have people come to the kitchen, a physical break but also a break in the rhythm and a nice way of showcasing what we’re doing. We have sixty people in the kitchen, and for us it’s really about the transparency and being able to show what it takes to drive a restaurant.”

His ingredients continue to be impeccably sourced from suppliers with unrivaled history and knowledge, those who share a like-minded passion for sustainability. Ekkebus also features a number of foraged products: ”We use pepper berries from Australia as well as different spices and leaves. In some areas, I think the foraged produce is phenomenal. René Redzepi [chef-owner of Copenhagen’s legendary Noma] did a really cool foraging app. It’s based on where you are and will tell you what you can forage there. We also use a lot of foraged mushrooms from China. If you go to Yunnan, they’re phenomenal.”

Among dozens of dishes that Ekkebus has newly created, five standouts highlight the qualities of Amber’s culinary enlightenment: thoughtful innovation, the finest of seasonal and sustainable ingredients, and an always-intriguing interplay of flavors and textures.

aka amadai “I love aka amadai from Fukuoka, and we’ve worked with the same fisherman for many years. His mom is from these famous women in the south of Japan who dive for sea urchins and abalones. He’s very responsible, everything is line caught.

I go there so often, they call me Mr. Amadai! I wanted to do something really clean, very summery, no heavy sauce.

We just steam violin zucchinis and season them with lime caviar and a beautiful green olive from Sicily called Nocellara del Belice. We use that for saltiness, we season it, and we make a gel of kabosu, which is a beautiful citrus from Japan.

Then egg-white mayonnaise with shiso and pickled onions.”

「我爱福冈的赤甘鲷。我们已和一名渔夫共 事多年，他的母亲就是那群在日本南部潜 海捕捞海胆及鲍鱼的知名女性之一。他富 有责任感，一切皆为手钓。我经常去造访， 他们还戏称我为甘鲷先生！我想创作一道 简洁俐落，充满夏日风味，且没有浓酱的 料理。清蒸小青瓜以指橘和来自西西里岛 的美丽绿橄榄调味，带出咸味并加以调味， 再以漂亮的日本柑橘 ─ 臭橙制作凝露，最 后则是蛋清蛋黄酱搭配紫苏和腌渍洋葱。 」

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“At the moment, we have Korean wild abalones.

First of all, we leave them overnight to rest, and the next day we cook them in two stages, using only seawater, kelp, and a lot of sake. That’s all we need to get extremely tender abalone.

The juice we reduce and whip with cultured cashew butter. There’s plankton powder – you need to revitalize it in seawater, and then you get an extremely green color, as green as grass.

That’s what we use in the sauce, and it gives a very interesting minerality. Then we add a lot of chopped truffle, a little bit of lemon juice, a little bit of fresh sake. There’s a butter sauce in which we cook fresh edamame, and then we put a lot of shredded truffle from Western Australia on the abalone, and finally some banno negi – it’s like a chive from Fukuoka.”

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「目前我们手上 有韩国野生鲍鱼。 首先将其静置一夜， 隔 日 以 两 段 式 烹 调， 只用海水、海带和大量 的 清 酒， 以 烹 调 出 极 其 柔嫩的鲍鱼。将释出的汁液 与发酵腰果黄油一同打发，并 将浮游植物调味粉加入海水中 活化，呈现如茵草般的极致绿 色，用于酱汁中带出新奇的矿 物质口感，再加入许多碎切松 露、少许柠檬汁与清新的清酒， 还有以新鲜毛豆制成的黄油酱， 接着在鲍鱼上放上大量西澳大 利亚的碎切松露，最后以福冈 的细香葱装点。 」

INGREDIENTS

Korean wild abalone

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有些人认为「Amber」近期的转变深具革命 意义，与餐厅一直秉承的法式传统大相径庭。

Richard Ekkebus 是「Amber」的幕后功臣兼 香港置地文华东方酒店厨艺总监。在他的带 领之下，显然要以焕然一新的面貌配合佳肴， 再启厨艺界的启蒙时代。 原 设 计 师 Adam Tihany 重 新 打 造 生 机 盎然、开阔流通的格局，为餐厅的首要转变， 带来庄重优雅的感觉，与从亚洲顶尖时尚厨 房中端出摆盘精致的新鲜食材一样明亮轻盈。

Richard 表示自己对「Amber」的全新思 维，奠基于他一直提倡的永续性以及对料理 食材的最高敬意。他解释 ： 「我只是想保存亚 洲料理中的轻亮感。厨艺界每一代都有不同 的 发 展，70 年 代 有 新 潮 烹 调，80 年 代 则 有

Ferran Adrià 的前卫厨艺。因此，我想现在是 时候要顾及宾客用餐后的余韵，我们是否该 为他们做些什么？我希望在每道料理后，宾 客还会期望再多吃那么一口，也希望他们在 最终依然满怀欣喜，给予甜点师傅与开胃菜 师傅相同的重视。 」

Richard 始终相信一切关乎用餐体验。他 认为 ： 「愈来愈多宾客想体验实验料理，带点 新花样却不会华而不实。长达两个半小时的 用餐体验往往让宾客支撑不住，因此我们邀 请宾客中场休息片刻，在餐间到厨房走动， 调整一下用餐的节奏，观赏我们厨房准备餐 点的过程。厨房里有六十位成员。对我们而言， 公开透明就是一切，要展现出足以让餐厅发

corn and caviar “I’ve always been known for a caviar dish. I really like caviar, and there are a lot of responsibly farmed products now. I had this idea of doing something with corn and caviar, and given we had six weeks to experiment, there was no restraint. We started to develop this foam of seawater that almost felt like a meringue. And when we made a custard of cold-pressed corn juice – it was almost like a natural sweet lemon curd. How could we create the idea of the lemon meringue pie and keep it savory? We used sudachi for the citrus, and the crispy element came by using freeze-dried corn that we grind very fine and make into very crisp tuiles. Then there’s fifteen grams of caviar, so it’s really about those different layers, the balance of the dish. But it messes with your head, because you think you’re eating a lemon meringue pie!”

展的才能。 」

Richard 追求食材的完美，并与来自历史

「我一直都以鱼子酱料理而闻名。我热爱鱼子酱，现在有很

悠久、知识丰富，且同样对永续发展满怀热

多值得信任的养殖产品。我想以玉米和鱼子酱创作，在为

情的供应商合作。他还特别向往野外寻觅而

期六个星期的实验中天马行空，研发出犹如蛋白脆饼的海

来的食材 ： 「我们使用来自澳大利亚的胡椒浆

水泡沫，当制作出冷压玉米汁卡仕达酱时，它几乎就像天

果以及不同的香料与叶子。我认为在某些地

然的甜柠檬凝冻。而我们又是如何创作出咸柠檬蛋白脆饼

区透过野外寻觅而来的食材简直是无与伦比。

呢？我们用了酢橘，脆皮部分则是用冷冻玉米干，磨细后

哥 本 哈 根 传 奇 的『NOMA』 餐 厅 主 厨 René

制成脆片，再加入十五克鱼子酱，重要的是一层层的堆叠

Redzepi 做了一个非常酷的觅食应用程式，依

与其之间的平衡感。但它会让你产生错觉，以为自己正在

据你所在位置告诉你何处可以寻觅到食材。

吃柠檬蛋白脆饼派！」

我们也采摘了在中国野外寻觅而来的蘑菇， 如果你去云南，便会明白有多惊喜。 」

Richard 全新打造的数道美馔中，其中五 道完全体现「Amber」革新厨艺的品质 ─ 持 续的创新、上等的永续时令食材，以及口感 与质地交织下耐人玩味的美食。

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Green apple, Thai basil, pistachio

“We did this sweet avocado guacamole using agave syrup and lime juice, and we said, let’s do something with greens as well. So that’s how we build it, layer by layer of green apple, Thai basil, pistachio. It works together very intricately and looks beautiful. Right now, we get American green apples, the avocados are Mexican, the basil is from Thailand, the pistachios from Sicily, so it’s a very textural dessert. The enriched soya cream we whip with lime juice and lime skin. Then you have a lime gel, shaved pieces of apple, some meringue with pistachio, and a pistachio ice cream made with rice milk and enriched soy.” 「我们以龙舌兰糖浆和青柠汁制作出甜牛油果酱，于是心想不如创作一道绿色料理吧。我们 将青苹果、泰国罗勒、开心果层层叠砌，繁复交织又赏心悦目。接着放入美国青苹果、 墨西哥牛油果、泰国罗勒，和西西里岛的开心果，呈现甜点的高质感。利用青柠 汁与皮一同打发调制浓郁黄豆奶霜，另外还有青柠凝露、削片苹果、开心果 蛋白脆饼，以及用米浆和香浓豆奶制成的开心果冰淇淋。 」

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Miyazaki Wagyu “We work with a farm called Haku, run by a father and son who’ve been world champions.

They only do two cows a week because they’re very small. No hormones, it’s all natural. We cook the beef, and we have a steak sauce that we make. I’ve always loved steak sauce – my wife is British, so HP Sauce! We make our own with seventeen ingredients – tamarind, Korean chili sauce, gochujang, black garlic, and tomato paste – I’m not going to give the rest of it away! We char-grill the lettuce, mix it with the onions, and season it with some fresh anchovy and garum, which is an old Roman fermented anchovy sauce that they’d use in everything.

We use it as a seasoning agent. So it’s surf and turf, but in a much subtler way.” 「我们与曾荣获世界冠军的 Haku 农场合作，该 农场由一对父亲和儿子经营，规模甚小，所以 每周只出产两只牛的肉，天然无荷尔蒙。我们​​ 烹调牛肉并佐以自制牛排酱，我一向很喜欢牛 排酱，加上我的妻子是英国人，所以一定是英 国 HP 酱！自制牛排酱含有十七种食材，如罗望 子、韩式辣椒酱、黑蒜和番茄酱，剩下的我就 不透露了！先炙烧生菜，并与洋葱混合，再以 新鲜鯷鱼和一种随处可见的古罗马式发酵鯷鱼 酱调味。既以鯷鱼酱作为佐料，这道料理可谓 是低调的海陆双拼。 」

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ESSAY

AT LEAST UNTIL the early twentieth century, most rural people worldwide depended on nature’s bounty for survival.

Wild leaves, roots, fruits, seeds, aquatic life, birds, and animals were freely available to those with the know-how and interest to do their own harvesting of welcome supplements to meager diets.

The practice lapsed over time as farmers prospered or moved to the cities, but it never completely died out. Recent years have seen a new generation of foragers searching town and country for edible items. Even Hong Kong’s crowded land area is almost three - quarters accessible green space that contains a cornucopia of wild foods and medicines.

But with the incentive of novelty rather than hunger, today’s foragers are often less than knowledgeable about plants and how to gather without causing harm.

至少到二十世纪初，世界上 大多数农村人口都仰赖大自 然的丰年稔岁，只要具备常 识和兴趣，人人都可以自由 地采集捕捞野生叶子、根、 果实、种子、水生生物、鸟 类和各类动物，为粗茶淡饭 加料配菜。 随着农民逐渐富足或 迁移到城市，野外采集日渐 式微，但从未彻底消失。近 年来，一批新一代的采集者 开始在城镇和乡村中寻觅食 材。即使香港地狭人稠，依 然有四分之三的绿地富产野 生食物及草药。然而，新一 代采食的动机是出于新奇而 非生存，所以现今的采集者 进行采集时，往往不了解植 物本身以及不懂如何避免伤 害植物。

foraging the city 城市野外采集

Hong Kong’s densely packed skyscrapers conceal edible secrets.

BY JANE RAM

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ESSAY

SOUTHEAST ASIA’S BOUNT Y THE FORAGING FAD F O R S O M E of t h e wo r l d ’s m o st fashionable restaurants, foraging has become the latest attraction, as chefs seek ever more unusual ingredients to give their dishes a unique “story” as selling point. In a sure sign that the trend has arrived, TripAdvisor now runs reviews and promotions for organized foraging tours all over the world.

Arguably the first to popularize foraged fare was Chef Rene Redzepi of award-winning Copenhagen restaurant Noma. Increasingly, New York chefs are relying on foraged finds from Central Park, and when up-market London restaurants use “wild” ingredients in their signature dishes, you may be sure this is no flash in the pan. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, for example, contracts a professional company called Forager, whose finds inspire new recipes. And the names of London’s Abundance, Hackney Harvest, and Urban Harvest make clear the source of key ingredients.

For Jaakko Sorsa, executive chef of Hong Kong’s pioneering Nordic restaurant FINDS, forests and their bounty were very much part of everyday life during his Helsinki childhood. “We helped ourselves to lingonberries, wild strawberries, and blueberries,” he recalls, “and we used to gather mushrooms, including porcinis and chanterelles.”

Sorsa has introduced local diners to such Finnish delicacies as young spruce shoots and pine pollen, which he and his mother gather when he returns home on holiday. “For most Nordic people,” he says, “the forest plays an almost mystical role, and foraging is something very special. What surprises me is that Finland and Ma Wan, where I live, have some of the same plants, like white sorrel that we call ‘fox’s bread.’”

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S H I N TA M A N I W I L D , located in the heart of three of Cambodia’s most important natural parks, adds a new dimension to luxury camping. Executive Chef Patricia Yeo guides guests into the jungle in search of seasonal edibles, with most of the actual collecting done by rangers who know how to harvest responsibly. Flowers are among the finds, including exotic frangipani, which Yeo fries in tempura batter. But her favorites are bright orange wild mangosteens the size of a large cherry that Yeo turns into luscious sorbets.

The rich jungle resources around Chiang Rai in northern Thailand present outstanding foraging opportunities. Locus Native Food Lab offers its chef’s journey, a ten-course foraging menu for up to twenty diners each night.

The three-day culinary adventures emphasize the importance of sustainable seasonal dining.

Participants meet local foragers who collect such treasures as wild mushrooms, galangal, and honey.

HONG KONG FORAGING NO-NO’S “O U R CO U N T R Y PAR K S are well-protected

by legislation,” says Dr. Benoit Guénard, assistant professor in the School of Biological Sciences at the University of Hong Kong. “But many people do not realize that the laws apply to everything within the boundaries of the parks. It is illegal to pick wild berries, leaves, flowers, or seed pods off plants. Collection of fallen wood for fuel is a big issue, as it can house termites, ferns, spiders, beetles, and so on, and when it decomposes, it supplies nutrients to the soil. The typical perception is that the countryside is an open larder from which we can freely help ourselves. But we cannot take whatever we want without risk to the ecological balance. Protection of certain areas is urgent.

“I understand why people have the urge to forage in the wild. We all want to find something rare. But how can we use this aspect of human nature and turn it into something positive?”

野外采集风潮掀起 近年来，不少厨师希望寻求与众不同的食 材，并以料理的独特故事性作为卖点，因

香港野生采集禁忌

此野外采食受到许多全球最时尚的餐厅追 捧。猫途鹰旅游网现正为世界各地有组

香 港 大 学 生 物 科 学 学 院 助 理 教 授 Benoit 「我们的郊野公园受到完 Guénard 博士说 ：

织的野外采集之旅提供评论和促销活动， 印证了此一风潮的兴起。 哥 本 哈 根 获 奖 餐 厅「Noma」 主 厨 Rene Redzepi 就是推广野外采集的先驱。

“For most Nordic people the forest plays an almost mystical role, and foraging is something very special.”

越来越多的纽约厨师仰赖采摘自中央公 园的野生食材，伦敦高级餐厅也在招牌 菜中使用野生食材，可见此风潮并非昙 花一现。 「Dinner by Heston Blumenthal」 餐厅就与专业公司 Forager 签约，用其供 应的食材发想新菜式。伦敦有不少食材 公 司 如 Abundance、Hackney Harvest， 以及 Urban Harvest，从名字便可知道这 些公司的核心食材来源。 对于香港首家北欧餐厅「FINDS」的 行政主厨 Jaakko Sorsa 而言，森林中的丰 产与他在赫尔辛基的童年生活息息相关。 他回忆道 ： 「我们都自己采摘越橘、野草莓 和蓝莓，也常常采集牛肝菌菇和鸡油菌等 蕈菇。 」

Jaakko 以回家度假时与母亲一同采集 的嫩云杉芽和松花粉向香港饕客展示芬兰之 美，他说 ： 「对于大多数北欧人来说，森林 蕴藏无穷奥妙，野外采集是非常特别的体验。 令我讶异的是，芬兰和我现居地马湾居然生

对于大多数北欧人来说，森

采摘野生浆果、树叶、花朵或种子实属违法 的 行 为。 收 集 落 木 用 于 燃 料 也 是 一 大 问 题， 因其可能夹带白蚁、蕨类植物、蜘蛛、甲虫等， 当它分解时会滋养土壤。普遍的认知是郊野犹 如开放的农场，可以任由我们攫取其中的资源。 然而，我们不可能恣意妄为却不危及生态平衡， 保护此类地区可谓当务之急。 」 博士又说 ： 「我明白，人们都希望找到一些 罕见的东西，这也是人们有在野外采集冲动的原 因。但是，我们怎样才能将人类的自然本性转化 为对环境更正向有益的行为？」

植物保护尚待加强 即使在香港郊野公园的范围之外，也禁止采摘《濒 临绝种野生动植物国际贸易公约》清单中的植物， 这是一项多边协约，香港也是签约地区之一。 香港是全球保育物种市场的主要国际转运点， 「我们作 被捕的走私者必受严法惩治。Benoit 说 ： 为科学家也必须遵守规定，2015 年我们在云南开

长着一些相同的植物，像是被我们称为『狐 狸面包』的白酢浆草。 」

善的立法保护，但是很多人未认知到法律的 保护其实是适用于公园范围内的一切，所以

林蕴藏无穷奥妙，野外采

展了一项计划，至今仍在等待样品的出口许可。相 反地，我们却看到当地妇女恣意地采集野蕈，高

东南亚之丰饶美硕

集是非常特别的体验。

堆在大篮子中。 」 对于香港观鸟协会副主席 Mike Kilburn 而言， 野生采集对环境是种威胁。他说 ： 「香港有七百万

圣塔玛尼野生自然保护区位于柬埔寨三座重点

人，想像一下，如果人人都定期出去野外采集，

自然公园的中心，豪华露营是其新的发展面向。

这儿摘片叶子，那儿采颗果实。不同于前几代人，

行政总厨 Patricia Yeo 带领宾客进入丛林寻觅季

他们根本不需要赖以维生！」

节性食材，但大部分实际的采集都是由熟稔如何

「关于偷猎海龟和偷砍土沉香之 Mike 亦称 ：

适当采收的工作人员负责。采收的食材中有鲜花，

类的罚则，法律规范明确且众所周知。野生鸟类

包括带有异国风情的赤素馨花，Patricia 将这种食

及其卵都受到保护，大多数野生动物也是一样，

材裹上天妇罗面糊再煎炸。她最喜欢的还是鲜橙

但香港缺乏环境保护的执法管道。直到目前，本

色野生山竹，大小好比大颗的樱桃，用来制作甜美

地村民依然视采集为天经地义，而其他人则不

的水果冰沙。

这么认为。目前野生采集潮流对环境的影响仍

泰国北部清莱周围丰富的丛林资源是野生采集

有待观察。 」

的最佳场所。当地的「Locus Native Food Lab」推 出包括十道野生采集料理的主厨之旅菜单，每晚最 多接待二十位宾客，为期三天的厨艺探索之旅着重 于永续时令餐饮的重要性，参与宾客可亲自与采收 蕈菇、南姜和蜂蜜等野生珍宝的当地野生采集者见 面交流。 WALK ON THE WILD SIDE | TK |

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W H AT N OT T O P IC K D R. TA MA

PR OT EC TIN G TH E PL AN TS E V E N O U T S I D E Hong Kong coun try park s, it is forb idde n to col lect plan ts that are on the enda nger ed list of CITE S (Con vent ion on Inter natio nal Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), a multilateral treaty to which Hong Kong is a signatory.

The city is a majo r inter national transshipment point for the glob al market in prote cted species, and penalties are rigorously enforced when smugglers are caught. “As scientists,” says Guén ard, “we are not exem pt from compliance. We had a project in Yunnan in 2015 and we are still waiting for an export permit for our samples. By contrast, we saw local women freely collecting wild mushrooms piled high in huge baskets.”

For Mike Kilburn, vice c h a i r m a n o f t h e H o n g Ko n g Birdw atch ing Socie ty, forag ing repr esen ts an envi ronm enta l threat. “We have seve n millio n people,” he says. “Imagine if they all went out foraging on a regular basis – a leaf here, a fruit there.

Unlike earli er gene ratio ns they don’t need it!

“The law is clear and wellknown when it comes to things like poaching turtles and cutting Aqui laria sine nsis , or ince nse trees. Wild birds and their eggs are protected, as are most wild anim als, but Hong Kong lacks reso urce s for envi ronm enta l enforcement. Until recently, local villagers took their right to forage for granted, while others did not think about it. The impact of the current active encouragement of foraging remains to be seen.”

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RA SA V E LY E VA is an ed uc ato r in en viron me nta l su sta ina bil ity wh o co nd uc ts research projects affi liated with UNESCO Hong Kong Association in several regions of Southeast As ia. “A s ea rly as th e Mi ng dynasty,” she says, “China regulated the relationsh ip between man and nature. Bu t that seems to have been forgo tten in recent decades.

“G row ing up in Ru ssi a, I wa s ac cu sto me d to for ag ing wi ld mu sh roo ms an d be rri es in season. But we were made aware from the ea rliest age that this flower is protec ted and that plant is in what wa s called the ‘red book‘ of protec ted species.

It gave us a strong understanding of bo tan y. I lea rne d ve ry yo un g wh en an d how to ha rACCORDING TO GAVIN vest mushrooms wi thout doing CO AT E S , senior lecturer at permanent dam age to the the University of Hong Kong, mycelium. We too k this knowlguerilla gardening is the latest edge for granted.” face of foraging. A long-time According to Dr. Fe ng Yibin, asso cia te direc tor city resident, Coates was a conan d asso ciate professor at HKU sultant for much of Hong Kong’s ’s School of Chinese Medicine, major landscaping. Among his Hong Kong’s subtropical location projects have been Yuen Long produces a surprisingly wide ran ge of wild Town Park, implementation of pla nts on its co mp ac t are a of the Central Greening Master eleven hundred squ are kilomePlan, and the planting of many ters. “Most of the se plants are streets and roundabouts. protected by law,” he says, “so “I love it,” he says, “when I tra dit ion al Ch ine se me dic ine see that people have been culti(TCM) can’t rely on local sources for ing red ients as vating their own crops – gourds, in the pa st.

One of my main are sweet potatoes, grains, and as of scientific research conc papayas – in parks and other erns making TC M su sta ina ble , be ca us e we formal ly landscaped areas. cannot continue to use endanThe government department gered species.” responsible for the environment The protection of do mestic complains that this is vandalna tiv e pla nts als o ha s a lon g ism, but I tell them, you’ve been way to go. In 2016, the governbleating about the need for me nt for mu lat ed a fiv e- ye ar public engagement – participaBiodiversity Strategy and Action tion doesn’t get any better than Pla n for the eq uit ab le sh ari ng of genetic resource this! The public additions often s while pro tec tin g cu ltu ral rig escape notice, but I’ve devised hts. It ski rts around many gray an official-sounding term for areas, including the degree to wh when they’re spotted: ‘sponich cultural rights include the rig ht to forage. taneous greening/planting by members of the public.’”

GARDENING GEURILLAS

ESSAY

快闪园艺 香港大学高级讲师

表示，快闪园艺是

不可采集之物种 Tamara Savelyeva 博士是环境永 续发展的教育专家，在东南亚几 个地区进行与香港联合国教科文 组织有关的研究计划。她说 ： 「早 在明朝，中国就规范了人类与自 然间的关系，但近几十年来似乎 已被遗忘。 」

Tamara 说 ： 「我在俄罗斯长 大，常常在收成的季节采食野生 蕈菇和浆果，但我们从小就知道 哪些花是保育类，哪些植物又是

Gavin Coates

野生采集的最

新样貌。他久居香 港，也是香港 众多景观规划的顾 问，许多街道 和路口的绿化工程， 以及元朗公 园和绿化总纲图都 是他的主要项 目之一。 他说 ： 「我喜欢看到人 们在 公园和其他规划的 景观区种植自 己 的 作 物， 像 是 葫 芦、 红 薯、 谷 物和木瓜，负责环 境规划的政府 部门说这是蓄意破 坏，但我告诉 他们，想提升大众 对公共事务的 参 与 度， 没 有 比 这更好的方式 了！民众的付出往 往被忽略，但 若是哪天当他们被 注意到时，我 已经想好了官方说 词， 就称作『公 民自发绿化 / 种植 行动』吧。 」

受『红皮书』保护的物种，这使 我们对 植物学 有了深 刻的理 解。 我很早就学会如何采收蕈菇却不 会对菌丝体造成永久性损害，这 都是我们认知里的常识。 」 据香港大学中医药学院副院 长兼副教授冯奕斌博士所言，香 港的亚热带地区一千一百平方公 里的面积上盛产为数惊人的野生 植物。 他说 ： 「这些 植物大 多数 受法律保护，所以传统中医不能 像过去一样依赖当地资源。我主 要的科学研究领域之一就是想方 设法让中药可持续发展，因为我 们不能再继续使用濒临绝种的草 药了。 」 国内本土植物的保育仍是漫 漫长路，尽管 政府于 2016 年制 定一项五年生物多样性战略及行 动计划，以实现公平共用生物资 源同时兼顾文化权利，却避而不 谈许多灰色地带，包括文化权利 中野生采集的权限。

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ESSAY

MEE T THE FORAGERS G R OW I N G U P in a farming family fifty years ago, Li Wen Choi soon learned which wild fruits were good to eat. “It was never a matter of necessity,” he says. “Times were hard, but we always had enough to eat. The wild fruits were like an extra treat.”

Sting Lai, who was born in 1960, was raised in a traditional Chinese medicine store in Tsuen Wan. He and his sister and five brothers were taught about medicinal wild plants almost before they could walk.

“We learned which plant was used in what formula and how it should be processed – steaming, cutting, or pulping. My parents bought raw ingredients, so we learned everything from scratch. We helped select, weigh, and assemble ingredients, and then we’d push the big trolley, delivering the medicines. In the early years, they bought some herbs from local vendors, but even in those days, most came from China. All the common ones were available, so it was not really necessary to collect plants in Hong Kong.”

Edmund Fok is the third generation to manage the traditional Chinese medicine wholesaler and ship chandler founded by his grandfather. The warehouse and shop are tucked away in a tiny lane off Ko Shing Street, the main artery of Hong Kong’s TCM business. His stock, he says, is all legally imported from China and can be freely traded. But he is well aware of illegal trade in items like rhino horn. “It’s a big risk to bring in banned items, even though they sell on the black market for as much as USD1,000 per gram, but it is a very effective treatment for skin problems!

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“Some herbs have almost disappeared.

Aggressive illegal harvesting of Chinese licorice, for instance, has severely threatened areas of Mongolian desert, and now you need a government license. Some Hong Kong native orchids with medicinal value have become almost extinct in the wild, so there have been attempts to cultivate them.

But they must be grown without chemical fertilizers or the result is not good.”

Control of endangered species is complex, Fok admits. Hong Kong enacted endangered species legislation in 1976, in accordance with CITES. “But most wholesalers can still supply anything if there is no invoice or receipt. Outside of gardens, foraging must be controlled. Everywhere in the world, it’s very different compared to only a few decades ago, but especially in China, where there’s very little space left for wild plants.”

HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW? DESPITE THE WEALTH of green resources in Hong Kong, many children grow up with no feeling of connection to plants or the soil.

Local schools are strongly encouraged by the Hong Kong government to get children involved in growing things as an extracurricular activity. Julie Leong runs the roof garden at Kennedy School in Pokfulam. “In their first year of exposure to gardening,” she says, “most children are worried about getting dirty, but by their second year, they all revel in soil up to their elbows. I hear kids saying let’s go and get dirty! No matter how muddy they get, I’ve had only one complaint, when kids went straight from the roof to the new library!

“The children have to be supervised – we hide the watering can or everything would be swamped! But they love to participate in harvest time, taking home their share of produce. We save our own seeds, and with three composters and a worm farm, the roof garden is pretty well self-sufficient.”

THE BOTANICAL INVASION NATIVE PLANTS make up only two-thirds of Hong Kong’s thirty-three hundred varieties of vascular plants. Birds, wandering sailors, farmers, careless gardeners, and, in more recent times, homesick domestic helpers from South and Southeast Asia have all played their roles in diversifying our plant life. French nuns have even successfully cultivated coffee in several of the city’s wildest places.

Many of these twelve hundred species of introduced plants have successfully naturalized themselves over the centuries.

Vegetables like tomato and basella, as well as more exotic items like butterfly pea, roselle hibiscus, avocado, moringa, perilla, chilies, curry leaf, and tiny Thai eggplant, have settled happily into the Hong Kong landscape. But how far is this a good thing?

One has only to think of Mikania micrantha , sometimes called mile-a-minute vine. Native to South America, it was first recorded in Hong Kong in 1884, although it is not known how it arrived. Despite its supposed uses in medicine and as animal feed, it has become an increasingly serious invader throughout the SAR, one that does major damage to trees and other plant life if left unchecked.

In fact, many Hong Kong species on the list of favorite forage plants are regarded as weeds, and local gardeners spend hours pulling them out of the ground. Perhaps serious foragers of the future can be encouraged to focus on these pests and on slowing mile-aminute’s relentless spread.

如何建造一座花园？ 遇见野生采集者

尽管香港拥有丰富的绿色资源，许多孩子都

五十年前，Li Wen Choi 生长于农民家庭，耳

港政府强烈鼓励学校让孩子参与培养植栽的

濡目染学到哪种野果才好吃。他说 ： 「这并非

课外活动，于是 Julie Leong 在薄扶林坚利地

生存所需，生活虽苦，但我们总是有足够的

小学规划了屋顶花园。她说 ： 「在接触园艺的

食物，野果就像是额外的点心。 」

第一年，大多数孩子都担心会弄脏，但到了

Sting Lai 出生于 1960 年，在荃湾的传统

在没有与植物或土壤亲近的环境下成长。香

自中国合法进口且可自由买卖，但他也十分

“Times were hard, but we always had enough to eat. The wild fruits were like an extra treat.”

小心犀牛角等物的非法交易。他解释 ： 「即使

生活虽苦，但我们总是有足够的

中药店长大，早在学会走路前，他和姊妹及 五个兄弟便已学习药用野生植物的相关知识。 他说 ： 「我们学到哪种植物该用于什么配方中， 以及蒸煮、切制或制浆等加工方法。父母买 的是未加工的原料，所以我们都是从头开始 学习，帮忙挑选、称重和搭配药材，然后再 以大推车运送药物。早年他们是向本地供应 商购买药材，但当时大多数药材已是源自中 国，所有常见的药材都有在卖，所以没有必 要在香港境内采集。 」

Edmund Fok 是管理中药批发商和船舶 供应商的第三代，该事业由他的祖父一手创 立，仓库和商店隐身于香港中医药业主干 ─ 高升街附近的一条小巷里。他说他的储货皆

它们在黑市上能卖到约每克一千美元的价格， 而且用于治疗皮肤问题真的非常有效，但是 引入违禁品要冒的风险太大了。 」 「有些草药几乎要消失了， Edmund 说 ：

第二年，他们都玩到手肘埋在泥土中了，还 听到孩子们嚷着要去弄得脏兮兮！无论他们 弄得多脏，我只有一个要抱怨的时刻，就是 当孩子们从屋顶直接进入新图书馆的时候！」 「孩子需要受看管，我们会藏 Julie 认为 ： 好浇水壶，否则一切都会被水淹没！但他们 喜欢参与收成季，把自己的那份成果带回家。 我们保存种子，有三个堆肥桶和一个蠕虫养 殖场，屋顶花园确实能够自给自足。 」

外来物种入侵香港 香港原生种植物仅占三千三百种受管束植物 中的三分之二，但鸟类、散步的水手、农民、 粗心的园丁，以及近年来思乡的南亚和东南 亚家佣在植物多样性层面贡献良多。法国修 女们甚至成功地在城市最荒芜之地种植咖啡。

食物，野果就像是额外的点心。

一千两百种外来植物已在过去几个世纪 成功融入本地，像是番茄和皇宫菜等蔬菜、 具异国风味的蝶豆花、洛神花、牛油果、辣木、

如大肆非法采集中国甘草造成蒙古沙漠地区

紫苏、辣椒、咖喱叶和小泰国茄子都与香港

受到严重威胁，所以现在需有政府执照才能

环境融为一体，但好景真能常在吗？

采集。一些具药用价值的香港本土兰花在野

不 禁 令 人 想 到 被 戏 称 为「 一 分 钟 长 一

外也几乎灭绝，所以有人试图人工培育，但

英里」的小花蔓泽兰。原生于南美洲，它在

必须在无化学肥料的情况下种植，否则成果

1884 年首次在香港被发现，却无从得知它是

不佳。 」Edmund 坦言，尽管香港于 1976 年依

如何被引入。尽管可以被运用在医学和动物

《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》颁布了濒

饲料中，但它已成为严重的外来入侵物种且

危物种的法令，控管濒危物种仍然非常复杂。

遍布香港，若不严加留意，就会对树木和其

他说 ： 「如果不开发票或收据，大多数批发商

他植物造成重大损害。

仍然可以供应任何东西。野生采集真的必须

事实上，野生采集热门名单上的许多香

加以管制，因为世界上所有地方相较于几十

港物种都被视为杂草，本地园丁会花费数小

年前都已今非昔比，尤其是中国，野生植物

时将其根除，也许在未来可以鼓励用心的野

的生存空间已寥寥无几。 」

外采集者多加留意有害的植物与延缓小花蔓 泽兰等外来种的持续扩张。

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Kuruma Ebi 日本车海老

PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

别致新意

fresh and unexpected

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Arbor’s imaginative French cuisine combines seasonal Japanese flavors in deliciously surprising ways.

CHEF ERIC RÄT Y CONTINUES to delight diners with his boundless creativity at Arbor, the acclaimed Hong Kong restaurant that was Michelin-starred within months of opening.

Its sleek and serene space, designed by Yabu Pushelberg, makes an appropriately elegant home for a restaurant emphasizing impeccable ingredients, classic technique, and culinary innovation.

A distinct Japanese aesthetic runs through the work of the Finnish-born chef, especially so in five new seasonal creations.

The tasting menu’s first course is a light and flavorful combination that beautifully prepares the palate. “The inspiration,” says Räty, “came when I encountered edamame in the old Tsukiji market in Tokyo – I’ve never seen them like that. On the bottom is a fresh homemade cheese like soft tofu that’s made from Japanese fresh milk and raw cream from France. There’s kaluga caviar with the edamame that we boil and glaze with sake and fleur de sel. Wasabi and pickled kombu hide underneath.”

The chef’s take on the prawn dish kuruma ebi was created for his four-hands dinner with Tokyo’s Hommage, one of the collaborations he has hosted at Arbor with chefs from top Japanese restaurants. “The live tiger prawns arrive from Okinawa,” explains Räty, “and we poach them in dashi for fifty seconds or so. Heads and shells are used for a shrimp mayo nestled at the bottom, and we have a sweet-and-sour sauce influenced by Thailand with sour notes from French pink rhubarb. We dust with sakura shrimp powder and brush a preserved sakura leaf with rhubarb gel. It’s simply a sweet-andsour shrimp, but we do something crazy and unexpected!”

A visual inspiration is behind Räty’s kinmedai dish. “I wanted to pair the red and orange colors of the fish and the kimchi,” he says. “The kinmedai from Kochi is poached in brown butter with toasted kombu, then slow-cooked and the

Chef de Cuisine 主厨 Eric Räty walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

skin torched for a little smokiness.” A sauce is made of kimchi with sea snail liver. “Sea snails are steamed overnight in kombu, then glazed with Sichuan chili oil. The finish is again Japanese, with twenty-year-old black mirin, red rice vinegar, and soy sauce.”

Awabi , Japanese black abalone, is another seasonal ingredient Räty works his magic on. “It’s amazing,” he says, “the umami, the texture, all the sea flavors.” He covers it in kombu for ten hours, keeping the kombu and juices for a scallop mousse that fills a Yunnan mushroom. “We take the cream of the abalone liver, kombu oil, and matcha green tea for bitterness and color. Sliced matsutake mushrooms are topped with dots of the liver sauce and toasted kombu powder. Another sauce made with Japanese octopus is cooked down with sake and dashi and finished with kombu butter, yellow wine, and white soy sauce.”

Dessert is inspired by a white plum liquor from Fukuoka. “Once I tasted it, I knew I was going to do a dessert with green ume plums, but I had to wait until their season started. It’s a classic baba, but with syrup made with plum liquor. We also add a sorrel sorbet on a green tea matcha crumble to give acidity and freshness. Just last week we finally received fresh elderflower from France, so I made a homemade syrup for the plate – once the season is right, you just do it!”

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「Arbor」在香港备受赞誉，开业数月便摘得 米其林一星殊荣，全因主厨 Eric Räty 不断 以无限创意来满足宾客的味蕾。时尚而闲静 的用餐空间由 Yabu Pushelberg 设计，由此， 这家以完美日本食材、经典技法与创新厨艺 而闻名的餐厅得以成为优雅得体的美食据 点。 芬兰裔主厨 Eric 充分展现独特的日本 美学，五道全新时令创作更是将此美学表露 无遗。赏味菜单中第一道料理，食材的巧妙 结合便创造出轻盈口感与绝妙风味。Eric 说： 「我之前从未见过整棵的日本毛豆，在东京 老筑地市场首次遇见，它启发了我。料理的 底层是软如豆腐的新鲜自制乳酪，由日本鲜 奶和法国生奶油制成 ；毛豆煮熟后，淋上清 酒和法国著名的『盐之花』海盐，再配上卡 露伽鱼子酱，而芥末与腌昆布则藏于其下。 」

← Kinmedai 金目鲷 → Abalone 鲍鱼 ↓ Caviar 鱼子酱

月 前 Eric 与 日 本 东 京 米 其 林 星 级 餐 厅 「Hommage」主厨联手打造四手盛宴，他特 别为此制作了一道明虾料理。他解释道 ： 「将 来自冲绳的新鲜明虾放入高汤中烫五十秒左 右，虾头和虾壳制成蛋黄酱作为基底，再配 上泰式糖醋酱，其中的酸味源于法国粉色大 黄，撒上樱花虾粉，并用大黄凝露刷上一瓣 渍樱花叶。尽管只是一道甜酸的鲜虾料理， 但我们脑洞大开地玩出新奇花样！」

Eric 的金目鲷料理隐含视觉​​上 的搭配灵 感。他说 ： 「我想将鲷鱼的橙色和泡菜的红色 相互调和。来自高知县的金目鲷与烤昆布先 浸于焦黄油中慢炖，炙烧表面以带出些许烟 熏味。 」酱汁则以泡菜和海螺肝酱调制而成。 「海螺在昆布中蒸煮一整夜，淋上 Eric 续称 ： 自制四川辣油，最后以加入二十年的黑味醂、 红米醋和酱油的日式手法作结。 」 日本黑鲍鱼是另一样让 Eric 施展烹饪魔 力的时令食材。他说 ： 「鲜味、口感与海洋风 味的结合实在是太美妙了。 」将鲍鱼包覆于昆 布之中十个小时，留下昆布和鲜汁来制作填 入云南松茸的扇贝慕斯。 「我们用鲍鱼肝酱、 昆布油、以及抹茶带出甘味和颜色，肝酱和 烤昆布粉点饰于野生松茸片上。另一种酱汁 是将日本章鱼置于清酒和高汤中煮至收汁， 最后再加入昆布黄油、黄酒和白酱油。 」 甜点的灵感来自于福冈的白梅酒。 Eric 说： 「当我一尝到这款酒，就知道要用青梅 做 甜 点， 但 一 定 要 等 到 收 成 的 季 节。 这 是

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

一 款 经 典 的 朗 姆 巴 巴， 其 中 的 糖 浆 是 以 梅 子 酒 制 成， 还 加 了 沁 凉 的 酸 酢 浆 草 雪 糕 和 抹 茶 脆 片。 而 就 在 上 周， 我 们 终 于 收 到 了 来 自 法 国 的 新 鲜 接 骨 木 花， 于 是 我 又 为 这 道甜点自制了糖浆。一旦时令食材到位，就 着手开工吧！」 walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY FISHERMAN’S WHARF

中菜变革

creatively chinese The Grand Palace’s innovative chef transforms the dining experience.

「励皇轩」行政总厨冼濠锋说 ： 「团队透 过新颖不俗的手法，赋予中菜崭新的定 义。 」 励宫酒店的「励皇轩」一直广为澳 门饕客所喜爱，主打粤菜料理。半年前 冼师傅接掌后，大刀阔斧改变菜单定位。 如今「励皇轩」提供多元百变的中国地 区性美食，还开发了全新的「厨师发办」

(omakase) 套餐。 「Omakase」 可 简 单 理 解 为「 给 您 全权负责」 ，源自日本料理。这种菜单狂 放不羁，将餐桌上的生杀大权全交给经 验老到的主厨，在以家庭式餐点为主的 中菜餐厅中并不常见。 「励皇轩」的「厨 师发办」菜单分为六道与八道料理，由 冼师傅与团队精雕细琢、为顾客量身打 造，份量为单人份。冼师傅说 ： 「最好顾 客能提前一天预约，我就有时间到市场 去，发掘最好最新鲜的食材。 」 冼师傅希望把最崭新脱俗的饮食体 验带给「励皇轩」挑剔的顾客，他跳脱 框架的料理巧思也是达成这个目标的元 素之一。五道全新招牌料理是他糅合创 意烹饪艺术与奢华食材的结晶，将可能 在「厨师发办」套餐中出现，亦供顾客 单点。 最贴切的例子便是酸辣花胶浓骨汤 羹，冼师傅表示这是受到「中国顾客对 大骨汤的热爱」启发。以猪、鸡骨熬制 成的浓汤，加入花胶片、银耳、黑木耳、 竹笙、竹笋、番茄、豆腐一同精炖。大 骨汤的汤体呈现轻盈的淡白色，比起常 Roasted Chicken with Chinese Wine Flambé 火烧酒香富贵鸡

见的黑、红色，显得格外引人垂涎。 这里的虾子海参烩岩米与一般高级 中餐厅的有所不同，冼师傅在这道料理 中展现了更多对精致食材的不同诠释。 肉多饱满的海参优雅地静置于经鲜美鲍 鱼酱汁烩炒的尼泊尔盐米之上，香气四

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另一道冼师傅的经典中华料理改编

The Grand Palace’s Executive Chinese Chef Johnny Sin. Long a Macau favorite, The Grand Palace at the Legend Palace Hotel formerly put the focus solely on Cantonese dishes. But when Sin took the helm half a year ago, he revolutionized the restaurant’s menu with a fresh change in direction. The Grand Palace now offers a wide spectrum of regional dishes from across China – as well as an exciting new omakase experience.

则是鲍鱼荷叶饭。他说 ： 「当这道菜名映

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入眼帘，通常人们会想到用荷叶包裹着 米饭。然而，我却将米饭放在荷叶之上， 让荷叶的自然清香温柔地缭绕于米饭之 中，毫不抢走米饭的风采。 」 为了满足素食者的热切盼望，冼师

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

溢。 “WE’VE REIMAGINED Chinese cuisine by doing something really new,” says

Braised Collybia Albuminosa Mushroom with Bean Curd Sheet 鸡枞菌烩豆衣

Omakase, roughly translating as “I’ll leave it up to you,” originated in Japanese cuisine. An adventurous dining style in which the chef expertly customizes what guests are served, it’s not typically seen in Chinese cuisine, which is traditionally served family style. The Grand Palace’s omakase menus, offering six- and eightcourse options, are served in individual portions, with Sin and his team tailoring each course to diners’ personal preferences. “It’s best,” says Sin, “if guests make a booking the day before, so I can go down to the wet market and hunt for the perfect fresh ingredients.”

Sin’s outside-the-box take on Chinese dining is part of his goal of bringing culinary innovation to The Grand Palace’s discerning guests. Five new signature dishes, which may be selected as part of the omakase menu and are also available as à la carte items, combine luxury ingredients with creative methods of preparation.

One prime example is the chef’s spicy and sour fish maw soup, which, says Sin, was “inspired by Chinese diners’ love of bone broths.” A stock prepared from pork and chicken bones is further enriched in a cooking process that includes sliced fish maw, snow fungus, wood ear, bamboo raft, bamboo shoots, tomatoes, and tofu. The use of bone broth gives the dish an appealingly light color rather than the dark or reddish shades usually seen in this soup.

Braised sea cucumber and shrimp roe on rock rice is a new twist on a

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傅亦推出他称为「全方位绿色料理」 的鸡枞菌烩豆衣。将采自云南省的 蕈菇烹煮后的香甜汤汁，浇淋在丝 缎般的腐皮上，豆香与菇香完美交 融，浓厚香气与丰富滋味如涟漪于 舌尖回荡。冼师傅说 ： 「许多人以 为素食料理一定淡而无味，我想让 他们知道，素食也可以让人入口惊 艳。 」 「叫化鸡」常以荷叶及泥土包 裹鸡肉。冼师傅的火烧酒香富贵鸡 将「叫化鸡」豪华升级，改以荷叶 及舒芙蕾般的蓬松饼皮包覆。上桌 时，饼皮上燃烧着中式烈酒产生的 熊熊火焰。冼师傅解释，火的温度 能让料理的热度不流失，也让「浓 烈的香气」随火光窜出，而最重要 的，它为整道菜带来了「励皇轩」 特有的精彩戏剧效果。

Spicy and Sour Fish Maw Rich Bone Soup 酸辣花胶浓骨汤羹

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fine-dining ingredient that guests have come to expect in any high-tier Chinese restaurant. A single succulent morsel of sea cucumber sits elegantly atop Nepalese rock rice that has been cooked in flavorful abalone sauce.

Yet another of Sin’s original interpretations on a classic Chinese specialty is his steamed fried rice with abalone, duck, shrimp, and lotus leaf. “When you see a dish like this on the menu,” he says, “you assume that it’s going to be wrapped inside a lotus leaf parcel. But here, the leaf sits under the rice, so its aroma gently lingers without overpowering the hero of the dish.”

To satisfy hungry vegetarians, Sin’s braised Collybia albuminosa mushroom with

↑ Steamed Fried Rice with Abalone, Duck and Shrimp wrapped in Lotus Leaf 鲍鱼荷叶饭 ↑↑ Executive Chinese Chef Johnny Sin 行政总厨冼濠锋

bean curd sheet is what he describes as a “multi-faceted green dish.” The sauce produced from cooking the Yunnan-sourced mushroom is used to flavor the bean curd sheet, resulting in a bouquet of rich aromas and flavors. “Some people may think that vegetarian food is often boring and tasteless,” says the chef, “but I want them to discover that it can be explosive.”

Beggar’s chicken usually consists of a bird wrapped in lotus leaves and clay. But Sin’s glorified version of roasted chicken with Chinese wine flambé is enclosed in lotus leaves and a souffle-like wrap. When served, the dish is flamed with Chinese spirits. It helps the dish retain its heat, Sin explains, while also lending an “intense fragrance” – and, of course, The Grand Palace’s touch of high drama. walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

天赋佳酿

paradisial pairings Hennessy Paradis Impérial is masterfully matched with Tin Lung Heen’s two-Michelin-star cuisine.

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Wok-fried glutinous rice with deep-fried crab claw in sweet vinegar

House of Impérial

甜醋脆皮蟹钳糯米饭

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→ Paul Lau Ping Lui, chef de cuisine 主厨刘秉雷

one who really seeks perfection,” says Paul Lau Ping Lui, chef de cuisine of Tin Lung Heen, the renowned Cantonese restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. →→ Perfectionism and precision are defiChef’s premium nitely the qualities to have when creating a selection pairing menu for Hennessy Paradis Impérial, 天龙献粹 the sumptuous Cognac acclaimed for its finesse, complexity, balance, and delicate floral essences of jasmine and orange blossom. Further enhancing the experience is the release of the newly designed Hennessy Paradis Impérial, with its pair of crystal tulip glasses and exquisite crystal decanter designed by artist Arik Levy.

The goal of Hennessy, Chef Lau, and head sommelier Benson Yan was to create an ultra-luxurious dining adventure to be served in the House of Impérial, the exclusive eight-seat private dining room perched among the clouds on the hotel’s 102nd floor. With a backdrop of spectacular harbor views, the room’s opulent appointments and interactive open kitchen provide an appropriately dramatic setting for revealing the boundless pairing possibilities of Hennessy Paradis Impérial. One wall serves as a showcase to display the fascinating story behind this exceptional Cognac.

The menu’s dishes were carefully crafted to complement the subtly layered flavors and aromas of Hennessy Paradis Impérial.

“Seafood, for example,” says Lau, “goes beautifully with a Cognac this elegant. When you sip it and then taste something fresh from the sea, you get a magnificent finish of florals and grape notes.”

Lau’s wok-fried sliced fresh abalone with ginger and spring onion highlights more of the Cognac’s many flavor facets. The pairing “really augments the umami taste of the abalone,” he says. “My favorite part,” adds Yan, “is the chopped spring onion, which brings out the slightly smoky-sweet accents of Hennessy Paradis Impérial.”

Savoring the distinguished Cognac with wok-fried glutinous rice and deep-fried crab claw in sweet vinegar is what Lau

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

“WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD, I’m some-

Wok-fried sliced fresh abalone with ginger and spring onion 姜葱炒鲜鲍片

Wok-fried glutinous rice with deepfried crab claw in sweet vinegar 甜醋脆皮蟹钳糯米饭

describes as a “sublimely satisfying” experience. “The crab claw really heightens the flavor combination of the Cognac and the glutinous rice.”

The chef’s braised wagyu beef cheek with taro in fermented bean-curd paste is a challenging dish to pair because of its complex flavor profile. “This creation is savory and fragrant all at once,” says Yan, “so it needs an accompaniment that is quite a bit more sophisticated. In the end, I found the fruity, floral aromas of Hennessy Paradis Impérial to be the ideal match.”

Tin Lung Heen’s talented chef and s o m m e l i e r a re n o t a l o n e i n p u r s u i n g such perfection. The unique distinction of Hennessy’s rare Cognac starts with seventhgeneration Master Blender Yann Fillioux, whose meticulous craftsmanship exemplifies the house’s unparalleled “art of selection.”

From ten thousand eaux-de-vie tasted, an average of only ten will be chosen for the remarkable blend that is Hennessy Paradis Impérial. “That’s the reason,” says Lau, “that we’ve gone all out to make sure this menu is flawless.”

「说到料理， 我追求完美。 」香港丽思卡尔顿酒店知名粤菜餐厅「天龙轩」主厨刘秉雷说。 轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧气味精妙、层次丰富，风味平衡又带有茉莉及橙花香气。要为 这款优雅干邑配搭菜式，完美主义及对精准的要求正是担此大任所需的特质。而新推 出的轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧会配搭一对郁金香形状的水晶高脚杯以及由当代艺术大师 Arik

Levy 设计的全水晶切割酒瓶，带来更极致的品味体验。 刘主厨与侍酒师 Benson Yan 负责为其设计八道菜式，让客人在位于 102 楼，只 有八个座位的豪华私人包厢「House of Impérial」享用这场极致奢华的味觉盛宴。客 人既可透过开放式厨房欣赏厨师技艺，也可饱览壮丽的维港景色，其中一面墙更改造 成轩尼诗干邑及其迷人故事的展示墙，可说是品味轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧的最佳场地。 菜单上每一道菜都经过谨慎设计及制作，以搭配轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧干邑的细致 多层次口感及香气。刘主厨表示 ： 「海鲜正是这款雅致干邑的最佳拍档。先浅尝美酒， 再将新鲜海产送入口中，美妙的花香与葡萄果香便在舌尖绽放，口齿留香。 」 主厨的姜葱炒鲜鲍片完美体现轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧干邑的多样风貌。刘主厨认为这 「我最爱的是当中切碎的青葱，能将 样的配搭让鲍鱼的鲜味大获提升。Benson 补充 ： 干邑淡淡的烟熏香甜质调引出。 」 一边享用甜醋脆皮蟹钳糯米饭，一边品尝高雅不凡的干邑。刘主厨认为这是「飘 然欲仙的满足」 。他说 ： 「蟹脚让干邑与糯米饭的风味组合更显尊贵。 」 刘主厨的另一道料理南乳荔芋扣和牛颊，口感与层次相当丰富，因而不易找寻 「这道菜融合丰富滋味与多层香气，因此只有精致、复杂的 合适的配酒。Benson 说 ： 酒，才能与其相衬托。最后，我发现花果香浓厚的轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧干邑，就是这款 料理命中注定的另一半。 」 「天龙轩」的主厨及侍酒师在追求完美的路上并不孤单。轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧是轩 尼诗系列中的至臻瑰宝，由第七代调配总艺师 Yann Fillioux 一手打造，其鬼斧神工的 调配技术印证了品牌令人叹为观止的甄选艺术。一万种「生命之水」中，约只有十种 可被甄选用于它的调配。刘主厨说 ： 「正因如此，我们也拼尽全力，确保菜单的一切 完美无瑕。 」 walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

悦绘艺术

doing it for the ’gram Vida Rica’s new afternoon tea and happy hour cocktails are as stunningly photogenic as they are delicious.

Chef Sebastien Bernis tells guests who order his new afternoon tea at Mandarin Oriental, Macau’s Vida Rica Bar. Dubbed The Painters, it goes far beyond the routine p.m. repast. “We want to move away from the image of the traditional afternoon tea,” says Bernis, “the ones where someone sets the food on the table and then disappears. Here, there’s a connection between the chef and the guest.”

Inspired by artists at work, the imaginative set features dramatic preparation and presentation of sweet and savory goodies and specially created mocktails right in front of guests. The vibrant look and visual appeal of the spread are created especially for the Instagram generation, those savvy younger diners who come prepared to snap and post in the moment while asking questions of the chef along the way.

Among the delights are reimagined favorites: homemade raisin and plain scones displayed on a stand resembling a painter’s easel, caramel tarts, salmon with pomelo praline, and king crab with green apple roll. Then there are quirky new creations like cherry-pistachio mousse and foie gras hazelnut

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DAVID HARTUNG

“HAVE YOUR PHONE READY,” Executive Pastry

The Painter’s afternoon tea set 悅「绘」下午茶

walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

对于那些享用新推出的悦「绘」下午 茶的宾客，澳门文华东方酒店「御苑 酒廊」饼房行政总厨 Sebastien Bernis 会提醒 ： 「 请 准 备 好 你 的 手 机。 」悦 「绘」下午茶超越一般的下午茶享受。 「我们想要跳脱传统下 Sebastien 说 ： 午茶的窠臼，与其只是将甜点放上桌 后便退场，我们更注重厨师与宾客之 间的互动。 」 这个创意下午茶套餐的灵感汲取 自创作中的艺术家，套餐特色在于甜 点与咸点的生动准备过程与呈现方式， 再搭配各种特调无酒精鸡尾酒。鲜艳 吸睛的餐点铺陈，是特别为爱好「手 机打卡」的一代而设计，机灵的年轻 宾客有备而来，一边拍照上传一边向 厨师发问。 悦「绘」下午茶重新演绎人见人 爱的点心，有摆设于「画架」上的自 制松饼和葡萄干松饼、焦糖挞、三文 鱼配柚子果仁和帝皇蟹青苹果卷，还 有车厘子配开心果慕斯、鸭肝榛子棒 棒糖等新奇创作。而重头戏非「惊喜 朱古力球」莫属，轻轻地坠落于宾客 的眼前，碎裂后，布朗尼、朱古力脆 脆和泡沫散布桌面，Sebastien 鼓励宾 Jacob Shteyntsayg and Sebastien Bernis

客直接从「画布」上取用，甚至还可 以用「画笔」作画。 「御苑酒廊」全新狂欢时段酒谱 「 海 洋 寓 言 」 别 出 心 裁， 推 出 各 款 精

jelly dipped in chocolate. But the pièce de résistance has to be the “surprise chocolate sphere.” Gently dropped, it shatters before diners’ eyes to reveal chocolate mousse, crumble, and brownie inside. Guests are encouraged to eat straight off the spread and even play around with paint brushes.

Vida Rica’s Fables of the Sea happy hour menu also offers something slightly unexpected. Each of these beautifully crafted and begging-to-be-photographed cocktails is inspired by a seafaring mythical creature or historical figure. All of them have reduced alcohol content, a deliberate decision, according to head bartender Jacob Shteyntsayg: “Just as a fable is a short tale conveying a deeper moral, these cocktails are low in alcohol but packed with flavor.”

One thirst-quenching example is the Ching Shih, named after the legendary female pirate who roamed the China Seas in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. It features Baijiu Beer, a craft brew infused with flavors of the Chinese liquor. Adding a kick to the drink are Italian Amaro Montenegro and white vermouth, which are balanced by the light, smooth flavors of rice orgeat and elderflower.

Kraken is inspired by a sea monster in Scandinavian folklore that was said to resemble a giant octopus. The drink features a pattern of “tentacles” created with rice paper in a 3D food printer. It contains an Italian bittersweet, artichoke-based liqueur called Cynar, pimento dram Caribbean rum infusion, grapefruit juice, egg white, and bitter orange marmalade. Mezcal

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心调制又精美的鸡尾酒，灵感皆是来 自航海神话角色或历史人物，清一色 都 是 低 度 鸡 尾 酒。 驻 店 调 酒 师 Jacob 「 正 如 寓 言 故 事， 简 Shteyntsayg 说 ： 短却寓意深远，这些鸡尾酒酒精浓度 低，却风味芳醇。 」 以沁凉解渴的 Ching Shih 鸡尾酒 为例，这款调酒以十八世纪末至十九 世纪初期周游中国海的传奇女海盗命 名，采用白酒啤酒，这是一种具有中 国风味的精酿啤酒，并以意大利蒙特 内罗利口酒和威末酒点缀，最后再以 香米杏仁糖浆和接骨木花做平衡，创 造轻盈滑顺的口感。

Kraken 鸡尾酒的创作灵感取自斯 堪的纳维亚民间传说中一只像巨大章 鱼的海怪，特色在于表面浮现的「海 怪触脚」是由 3D 食品列印机和米浆纸 列印出来的。饮品本身则含有意大利

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

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Ching Shih

Matsya

Kraken

sprayed on top, says Shteyntsayg, gives the illusion that the drink is alcoholically potent.

Paying tribute to a fish deity of Indian legend is Matsya.

It’s made with Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin, with its “very intense cardamom flavors,” plus nonalcoholic spirit Seedlip Grove and a mango-and-passion-fruit shrub for a tropical touch.

Of Vida Rica’s newly launched offerings, Bernis remarks, “It’s all quite special. We believe they’ll soon become the talk – and the top trending photos – of the town.”

苦甜朝鲜蓟利口酒吉拿、加勒比朗姆酒泡椒、葡萄柚汁、蛋 清和苦橙果酱。Jacob 再喷上梅斯卡尔酒，制造出带有酒精 的错觉。

Matsya 鸡尾酒则是为了向印度传说中的鱼神致敬，豆 蔻香气浓烈的所罗门大象香料琴酒，加上 Seedlip Grove 无 酒精蒸馏酒和洋溢热带风情的鲜芒百香果醋饮，爽口清新。 「这一 在「御苑酒廊」推陈出新之际，Sebastien 说 ： 切都很特别，我们相信很快就会成为城中热话，照片也会在 澳门蔚为风潮。 」 walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

「食」钟艺术

time to eat

DAVID HARTUNG

Pastry chef François Galtier creates a delectably sweet illusion to showcase the distinctly French flavor of Candia Professional Cream Cheese.

FRANÇOIS GALTIER was always artistic, so much so that his parents wanted him to pursue drawing. But he knew from an early age that cooking was where his real interest lay and that pastry in particular offered limitless opportunity to bring his aesthetic sensibilities to the table. Galtier’s career choice was rewarded when he won Bronze in the 2009 Pastry World Cup. But for Galtier, there was more to pastry than appearance alone. “I’m very interested in the raw materials and how they react with each other,” he says. “For many years, I’ve been analyzing the culinary alchemy that happens in the bowl when we mix various ingredients together.” His curiosity has led him to experiment in product development, researching and creating precision ingredients to better meet the specialized needs of professional chefs. Galtier’s latest innovation is the world’s first technical cream cheese, developed in partnership with Candia. With its 33 percent fat content, Candia Professional Cream Cheese is softer for smoother blending. Lightly salted for greater versatility, it has a rich and subtle, characteristically French taste.

Galtier features the new product, along with Candia’s renowned butter and whipping cream, in his specially crafted dessert named The Clock, which he recently prepared in the state-of-the-art Sub-Zero and Wolf showroom at Lee Garden Three in Causeway Bay. The recipe complements Candia Professional’s premium cream cheese with the flavors of caramel, pear, and chocolate, each element appearing in various consistencies, from crisp to semiliquid to light and creamy. “I like to play with textures,” says Galtier, “and, depending on factors like melting points, we’re able to get a whole range of distinct degustations.”

The Clock also eminently displays Galtier’s talent for striking visual design, with its imaginative decorative elements inspired by the inner workings of an antique timepiece.

Galtier dismantled a real clock to create the silicone molds he uses to form chocolate-based faux-mechanical parts.

They are meticulously brushed with metallic colors to give a vintage feel before placement atop the finished cake. “I love to create illusion,” says the chef of his delightfully deceptive edible art.

François Galtier 是 个 充 满 艺 术 气 息 的 人。原本他的父母都希望他能够向绘 画方面发展，但他在童年时就意识到 烹饪才是真正的兴趣所在，尤其认为 烘培可以展现他的艺术美感。François 在 2009 年获得世界杯西点大赛铜牌， 至此他的职涯选择终于得到了回报及 肯定。 对 Franç ois 而言，烘培的意义远 多于表面的呈现。他解释 ： 「我对原材 料 及 它 们 之 间 的 交 互 作 用 深 感 兴 趣。 多年来，我一直分析各种材料混合时 所发生的『烹饪炼金术』 。 」好奇心促 使他着手实验产品开发、研究和打造 更 能 满 足 专 业 厨 师 需 求 的 专 用 材 料。 他 与 Candia Professional 共 同 开 发 全 球首款应用型忌廉芝士，脂肪含量为

33 ％，更滑顺柔软与易于搅拌，微盐 使其更广泛地被运用，具有丰富微妙 的法式风味。

Franç ois 最近利用最新的忌廉芝 士 以 及 Candia Professional 知 名 的 牛 油和淡忌廉，在铜锣湾利园三期风格 时尚的 Sub-Zero and Wolf 展列室示范 手工特制的甜点 ―「食」钟。他选用 的 Candia Professional 顶 级 忌 廉 芝 士 与焦糖、梨子和朱古力的风味相得益 彰，各个元素的浓稠度相异，从酥​​脆 到半流质，再到轻盈滑顺，层次非常 「我喜欢巧妙利用 丰富。Franç ois 说 ： 不同质感，随着熔点变化等因素，就 能拥有一系列相异的口感风味。 」 这道仿时钟的甜点也大大表现了 他惊人的视觉设计天赋。创意装饰元 素 的 灵 感 来 自 古 董 钟 表 的 内 部 运 作， 他甚至拆解了真正的时钟来仿制用于 塑型朱古力机械零件的矽胶模具。摆 饰前，他还小心地将朱古力零件刷上 金属色泽，呈现复古风情，营造迷人 的美味艺术。大师总结 ： 「我就是喜欢 创造幻想。 」

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THE CLOCK

Makes 3 molds, 14 cm diameter

SUGAR DOUGH

CHOCOLATE PEAR CREAM

WHITE CHOCOLATE GLAZE

250 g 100 g 35 g 1 g 140 g

GMP Wheat Premium Flour T55 icing sugar almond powder sea salt Candia Professional Extra Tourage Butter Sheet 50 g eggs

180 g pear purée 26 g gelatin mass (15) 120 g Veliche Gourmet Obsession 30 White Chocolate 90 g Veliche Gourmet Intense 35 Milk Chocolate 100 g Candia Unsalted Butter 90 g pear purée

1. Combine dry ingredients with butter that has been cut into cubes until mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

2. Add eggs and combine to form dough.

3. Refrigerate until firm, roll to 4 mm thickness, and cut into 14 cm disks.

4. Bake between two Silpains at 160°C for about 18 minutes.

1. Warm 180 g purée with gelatin mass and pour over chocolate.

2. Combine with butter and add mixture to 90 g of purée.

3. Pour 200 g on top of baked sugar dough disks in 14-cm molds and freeze.

100 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream 70 g sugar 410 g glucose syrup 180 g gelatin mass (1:5) 225 g Veliche Gourmet Obsession 30 White Chocolate 700 g neutral mirror glaze 10 g white food coloring

PEAR SAUCE 300 g 100 g 30 g 5 g

pear purée apple juice icing sugar (or granulated sugar) iota carrageenan (agar-agar)

1. If using carrageenan, blend all ingredients together. If using agar-agar, boil all together, allow to gel in the fridge, and blend to loosen the gel.

2. Pipe about 130 g per mold on top of frozen cream.

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DULCE DE LECHE MOUSSE 220 g 70 g 220 g 3 g 400 g

sweetened condensed milk gelatin mass (1:5) Candia Professional Cream Cheese salt Candia Professional Whipping Cream

1. Heat unopened can of condensed milk in pan of simmering water for 3 to 4 hours to caramelize.

2. Warm condensed milk with gelatin mass and salt and pour over cream cheese to soften.

3. At 35°C, gently fold in whipped cream.

1. Boil cream with sugar and glucose syrup and pour over gelatin to melt it.

2. Add chocolate and mix well to melt it.

3. Add mirror glaze, mix it in, and use at 35–40°C.

FINAL ASSEMBLY 1. Pour mousse into Eclipse silicone mold and place frozen insert to finish and fill mold.

2. Freeze, remove from mold, and cover with white chocolate glaze.

3. Make clock elements from tempered chocolate using silicone molds, brush with metallic colors, and add as decoration.

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

焦糖慕斯

白朱古力淋面

220克 甜炼乳 70克 吉力丁块 (1:5) 220克 Candia Professional忌廉芝士 3克 盐 400克 Candia Professional淡忌廉

100克 Candia Professional淡忌廉 70 克 糖 410克 葡萄糖浆 180克 吉利丁块 (1:5) 225克 Veliche Gourmet Obsession 30 白朱古力 700克 香草透明镜面淋面 10克 白色食用色素

1. 将未开封的罐装炼乳置于开水锅中加热三至 四小时以焦糖化。 2. 加热炼乳、吉利丁块和盐，倒入忌廉芝士 软化。 3. 在35°C时，加入淡忌廉轻轻切拌。

1. 将糖和葡萄糖浆加入淡忌廉后煮沸，倒在吉 利丁上使其融化。 2. 加入朱古力并搅拌均匀使其融化。 3. 加入镜面淋面后搅拌，于35-40°C下使用。

组装 1. 将慕斯倒入矽胶模具中，放入冷冻夹心来 填满模具。 2. 冷冻、脱模，并覆上白朱古力淋面。 3. 使用矽胶模具、金属色刷制作朱古力时钟零 件，并装饰于成品上。

「食」钟 制作3个直径14厘米的烤模

糖霜 250克 巴黎大磨坊小麥麵粉T55 100克 糖霜 35克 杏仁粉 1克 海盐 140克 Candia Professional特级牛油片 50克 鸡蛋

1. 将干的材料与已经切成方块的牛油混合至 屑块状。 2. 加入鸡蛋，混合成面团。 3. 冷却至凝固，杆至4毫米厚度，并贴合于直 径14厘米的烤模中。 4. 在160°c下夹在两个烘焙垫之间烘烤约18 分钟。

朱古力梨子忌廉 180克 梨子泥 26克 吉利丁块 (15) 120克 Veliche Gourmet Obsession 30 白朱古力 90克 Veliche Gourmet Intense 35 牛奶朱古力 100克 Candia Professional无盐牛油 90克 梨子泥

1. 加热180克梨子泥与吉利丁块，再倒入朱 古力。 2. 与牛油拌匀后加入90克梨子泥。 3. 倒200克于14厘米烤模内经烘烤的糖霜面团 中并冷冻。

DAVID HARTUNG (6)

梨子酱 300克 梨子泥 100克 苹果汁 30克 糖粉（或砂糖） 5克 Iota型卡拉胶（燕菜粉）

1. 若使用卡拉胶，将所有材料混合在一起。若 使用燕菜粉，则将所有材料一起煮沸，并置 冰箱中凝固，再搅拌使其化为胶状。 2. 挤130克于各模中的冷冻忌廉上。 walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

奥亚邂逅

austria meets asia From elegant whites to robust reds, Austria’s myriad fine wines make for exceptional pairings across the spectrum of Asian cuisines.

© ÖWM/BLICKWERK FOTOGRAFIE (2)

AUSTRIA’S ABUNDANCE OF TOP-TIER WINES is the fruit of traditions tracing back before Roman times. But many of them remained well-kept secrets until recent decades, when new waves of serious and adventurous producers across the country’s wine regions have made leaps forward in the viticulture and vinification of their distinctive grape varietals. Today, many Austrian wines rival the world’s best in their classes and are selected by top sommeliers for the lists of fine-dining restaurants around the globe.

Another contemporary trend has been the worldwide reach of authentic Asian cuisines. Global availability of fresh Asian ingredients means that sushi is no longer foreign to anyone, Thai curries are everywhere, and the fire of Sichuan food has entered the culinary mainstream. Leading Western chefs have embraced the growing influence, adding their personal takes to the Asian approach of fresh seasonal ingredients, often brief cooking times, and complexity of flavor from an extraordinary range of herbs, spices, and sauces.

What could be a more propitious moment for the marriage of Austrian wines and Asian food? The country’s signature grüner veltliner, for example, with its renowned power and finesse, is an ideal match for a wide array of Asian classics, from delicate Japanese sashimi and tempura to Cantonese dim sum and spring rolls. This wine, with its integrated acidity, can stand up to sharp flavors as well, and it is incomparable when paired with umami-rich dishes.

Regional stars like zierfandler, rotgipfler, roter veltliner, weissburgunder, and neuburger also have endless pairing possibilities with Asian dishes. Fruit-forward rieslings and sauvignon blancs, sometimes with a touch of residual sweetness, go especially well with Eastern appetizers. The country’s barrique-matured chardonnays match marvelously with heartier meat or fish dishes.

Austria’s fine reds beautifully complement intensely spicy dishes that demand fruitiness with lighter tannins, and its acclaimed sweet wines make lusciously successful matches with Indian curry and tandoori dishes.

奥地利盛产的顶级葡萄酒可溯源至罗马时期传统的 成果，近几十年来当地葡萄酒产区出现新一批认真 大胆的生产者，让特殊葡萄的栽种和酿造技术突飞 猛进，许多酒款才正式展露真颜。现今，许多奥地 利葡萄酒在同级酒品中媲美世界之最，受顶级侍酒 师青睐，从而成为世界高级餐厅酒单中的一员。 另一个当代趋势是正宗亚洲美食在全球的扩 张，新鲜亚洲食材在世界各地变得普遍，意味着寿 司不再使人感到陌生，泰国咖喱无处不在，四川料 理的辛辣已成为烹饪主流。顶尖的西方主厨已投入 此一渐增的趋势，将个人风格纳入亚洲厨艺，如选 用新鲜时令食材、尽可能缩短烹调时间，以及运用 各种特殊香草、香料和佐料以带来繁复风味。 何时会是奥地利美酒与亚洲美食携手连袂的 绝佳时机？例如，奥地利招牌的绿维特利纳以厚重 且细致的口感闻名，十分适合搭配各种亚洲经典料 理，从精致的日本生鱼片和天妇罗，到粤式点心和 春卷，这款葡萄酒蕴含的酸度足以与重口味并肩， 与鲜味浓郁的料理实在是绝配。 产区名酒如津芳德尔、红基夫娜、红维特利纳、 白比诺和纽伯格也都拥有与亚洲料理搭配的无限潜 力。偏果香的雷司令和白苏维翁的余韵香甜，特别 适合搭配东方开胃菜，奥地利木桶熟成的霞多丽白 酒与丰盛的肉类或鱼类料理一拍即合。 奥地利的优质红酒果香缭绕且单宁低，完美 匹配辛辣厚重的料理。备受赞誉的甜酒则与印度咖 喱和窑烤料理相得益彰，成功升华彼此美味。 walk on the wild side

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PRESENTED BY PATRON

永续调酒

DAVID ALAN BELIEVES that sustainability should be high on any bartender’s priority list. As director of trade education and mixology at Patrón Tequila, he shares tips with TK on creating environmentally responsible cocktails at home:

sustainable mixology

When mixing drinks, what are some good ways to embrace sustainability?

Patrón Tequila and Hong Kong’s Quinary bar team up to support the environment.

The most important way is to support brands – like Patrón – that are on record as taking the matter seriously. We use natural gas to reduce atmospheric emissions, our waste system produces compost for use on the fields, and we plant thousands of trees around Atotonilco.

How do you choose the right mixers?

Buy and use local, seasonal ingredients to create a smaller carbon footprint. We eat different foods at different times of year, and we should drink seasonally too. If you have a garden, those fruits, berries, herbs, and edible flowers are great in cocktails. And if you don’t have a garden, all you need is a sunny window and a pot.

What are some ingredients you suggest for mixing with Patrón Silver Tequila?

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

It’s infinitely mixable – I’ve yet to find anything that doesn’t complement the brightness and complexity of Patrón Silver Tequila. You’ll find green and citrus and pepper notes in it and also spicy and culinary flavors. When you take a fruit that already has an array of flavors and mix it with such a complex spirit, it tends to taste quite delightful. Papaya, for example, would be awesome.

You can juice it or muddle the flesh, and you can dehydrate slices to make fruit leather for a garnish or an edible straw.

Use the whole fruit. Squeeze a lime for the juice, then infuse the rind with sugar for a syrup. Or dehydrate the rind and grind it to a powder with some salt and use it around the rim of a glass. Sustainability is achieved with baby steps like these.

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DAVID HARTUNG

What about cutting down on waste when mixing drinks?

SABROSO

40 ml Patrón Reposado 60 ml fermented tomato juice (as per instructions below) 10 ml lemon juice 10 ml agave syrup

1. Mix and carbonate all ingredients in a Perlini shaker.

2. Pour into coupe glass.

3. Coat half the rim with tomato dust.

0毫升 培恩金樽龙舌兰酒 4 60毫升 发酵番茄汁（按照下述说明） 10毫升 柠檬汁 10毫升 龙舌兰糖浆

1. 所有食材混合于Perlini雪克杯中并 灌气。 2. 倒入玻璃杯中。 3. 涂抹番茄粉于半边杯缘。

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PRESENTED BY PATRON

ANTONIO LAI is the talented mixologist at Quinary,

Hong Kong’s wildly popular multisensory bar. He summons his creativity in crafting a cocktail that puts the emphasis on sustainability while at the same time expressing the delicious essence of its distinctive ingredient.

Inspiration was found in the luscious array of fresh fruits and vegetables at his neighborhood wet market.

“I chose some beautifully ripe local tomatoes,” says Lai, who particularly favors cocktails in the Bloody Mary style.

“They pair perfectly with the savory notes of Patrón Reposado. First, we slow-juice the tomatoes, then clarify the juice and put it under a heat lamp for twelve hours at 60°C to ferment it for a deep umami flavor.”

Lai doesn’t waste a bit of the tomatoes’ goodness – he pops the leftover pulp into the dehydrator for twentyfour hours to make super-flavorful tomato dust. “What I enjoy most,” he says, “is using every single part of the produce to create a zero-waste drink.”

Antonio Lai 是香港广受欢迎的多感官享受酒吧「Quinary」 的天才调酒师，他汇集自身创造力调出一款强调永续性的 鸡尾酒，并同时展现其中特殊成分的美妙精华。 调 酒 的 灵 感 来 自 邻 近 传 统 市 场 中 的 新 鲜 蔬 果。 「我挑选 Antonio 尤其喜爱血腥玛丽风格的鸡尾酒。他说 ： 了一些美丽、熟透的本地番茄，能完美搭配培恩金樽龙舌 兰酒的香气。首先，将番茄慢磨成汁并过滤，将其置于加 热灯下十二小时，维持摄氏六十度使其发酵，带出更深一 层的鲜味。 」

Antonio 完全不浪费番茄的精华，他将滤剩的果肉放 入干燥机中一整天，烘出极其鲜美的番茄粉。他說 ： 「我 最喜欢的就是物尽其用，调酒也可以做到零废弃物。 」

您如何挑选合适的调酒配料？ 选购并使用当地的时令食

哪些配料适合与培恩银龙舌兰 搭配调制？

如何在调制饮品时减低浪费？ 使用整颗水果。挤出青柠中

每位调酒师都该首先重视「永续

材以减低碳足迹。一年中我们依

培恩银龙舌兰简直是百搭之

的果汁后，将外皮加糖来制作糖

性」 。他与 TK 分享如何在家调出

循时令，有一套相对应的食材选

王，它的亮度和复杂度绝佳，几

浆，亦可将果皮烘干并将其研磨

择，其中也包括喝的饮品。如果

乎所有配料都能与之搭配。你会

成粉加盐涂抹于玻璃杯边缘。永

你有一座花园，里面那些水果、

发现它具有鲜蔬、柑橘和胡椒的

续性就是要像这样，一步一脚印

调制饮品时，有什么好方法可

浆果、香草和食用花卉都很适合

香气，还有辛味和美食的味道，

地慢慢实现。

以兼顾永续性？

用于调酒。如果你没有花园，你

所以当你用风味丰富的水果与这

只需要一面阳光明媚的窗户和一

款结构繁复的酒混合时，味道往

盆盆栽。

往愉悦迷人。例如木瓜，可以用

「环保鸡尾酒」的技巧 ：

最重要的方式就是支持像 培 恩 龙 舌 兰 这​​些 对 永 续 性 坚 持 不懈的品牌。我们使用天然气以

來榨汁或混果肉，也可以切片烘

减少废气排放，透过废物循环系

干制作果干，用于装饰或做成可

统将产出的堆肥用于田中，我们

食吸管。

也在阿托托尼尔科周围种植数 千棵树。

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

David Alan 是培恩龙舌兰酒厂的 贸易教育总监和调酒师。他认为，

“Bartenders are a naturally creative lot. They’re expressive artists and performers who can steer their creativity in the healthy and helpful direction of sustainability. 调酒师天生就很有创意，是富有表 现力的艺术家和表演者，足以将其天 赋用于健康有益的永续发展上。 ” DAVID ALAN

幻宴如初

twelve exceptional months Alain Ducasse at Morpheus marks a year of magic moments.

→ Mediterranean gamberoni, delicate gelée, gold caviar

Early vegetables, crushed basil and hazelnut

地中海红虾冻、金鱼子酱

幼嫩鲜蔬、罗勒、榛子

TASTING NEWS

SURROUNDED BY THE SPECTACULAR personal collection of antique tableware and crystal that decorates Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, City of Dreams, the French maestro, impeccable in chef’s whites, clearly couldn’t be prouder of what he has created at his fine-dining flagship in Macau.

As the elegant room marks its first anniversary, Ducasse has launched a special menu called Le Premier to celebrate both the birthday and the two Michelin stars the restaurant garnered within six months of opening. It was “une bonne surprise,” he remarks, but not something the world’s most Michelin-awarded chef is content with: “We’re working on the next one. And it’s not just the food – it’s the design, the table settings, the crystal. We want to satisfy the eyes as well, which is why we work so hard on every detail to create those magic moments. Diners appreciate all these incredible ingredients and visual elements in harmony.”

Ducasse already oversees a remarkable trio of threeMichelin-starred restaurants: Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée in Paris, and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester in London.

His chef in Macau is Pierre Marty, who has spent more than a decade as part of Ducasse’s team and is currently pursuing the pinnacle of a third star. His sophisticated lunch menu, a model of culinary savoir faire, simultaneously pays homage to classic French gastronomy, introduces thoughtful innovation, and celebrates some of the great man’s signatures.

A perfect example of the last is Mediterranean gamberoni served with a sublimely delicate gelée and gold caviar. Available only at Alain Ducasse at Morpheus and Le Louis XV in Monaco, the stunningly delicious combination is a rightful classic.

Next come impeccably sourced seasonal vegetables, a medley of green accompanied by a culinary coup: Monsieur Ducasse himself shaves black truffle over the plates of fortunate diners. Confit of line-caught sea bass with braised fennel and black olives is followed by perfectly done prime rib with grilled zucchini and marjoram.

To conclude, there’s chocolate from Ducasse’s own manufacturer in Paris. It combines beautifully with whiskey and crunchy barley to sweetly round out a memorable menu.

Alain Ducasse 杜卡斯先生

耀眼的私人古董餐具与水晶收藏四面环绕，装饰着新濠天地 摩珀斯的「杜卡斯餐厅」 。身穿纯白厨袍的法国厨艺巨匠杜 ，对自己在澳门一手打造的精致 卡斯先生（Alain Ducasse） 旗舰食府感到无比骄傲。 此美轮美奂的餐厅迎来一周年纪念，更于开幕六个月内 即摘下米其林两星。为此，杜卡斯先生推出特设菜单「初 • 飨宴」 。对于「摘星」的成就，他认为，那真是出乎意料，但 身戴世上最多米其林星级的大厨不耽溺于此。他表示 ： 「我 们正为下一个作品努力，它不仅限于料理，还有设计、桌饰、 水晶等，期待能让宾客赏心悦目。我们重视每个细节，就是 为了创造奇幻的用餐时光，而宾客也都十分赞赏这些绝妙餐 点与视觉元素的和谐交织。 」 杜卡斯先生同时带领三间米其林三星级餐厅，包括摩纳 哥巴黎大酒店的「路易十五餐厅」 、 巴黎雅典娜广场酒店的「杜 卡斯餐厅」 ，以及伦敦多彻斯特酒店的「杜卡斯餐厅」 。 掌管澳门餐厅的主厨 Pierre Marty 十多年来一直是杜卡 斯团队的成员之一，目前积极追求第三颗星星，以求登峰造 极。午间美膳展现主厨八面玲珑的厨艺，除了向经典法式料 理致敬及引入极具巧思的创意，亦用以颂扬杜卡斯先生的招 牌名菜。顶级细致的地中海红虾冻、金鱼子酱便是最完美的

COURTESY OF CITY OF DREAMS (3)

例子。这个搭配仅在摩珀斯「杜卡斯餐厅」和摩纳哥的「路 易十五餐厅」供应，美味绝伦的搭配无疑是经典中的经典。 同时还有精心挑选和完美烹调的时令蔬菜，绿蔬总汇还伴随 着出奇不意的料理巧思 ― 杜卡斯先生会亲自将黑松露刨下至 幸运宾客的盘中。接着在宾客品尝完油封活缔手线捕海鲈配 炖茴香和黑橄榄后，献上熟炙肋扒配烤西葫芦和马郁兰。 最后，杜卡斯先生以巴黎自家工厂所产的朱古力巧妙结 合威士忌与香脆大麦。至此，一场令人回味无穷的宴席甜美 落幕。 walk on the wild side

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99

WINE MASTER

东征之旅

hennessy looks east

ROCH HENNESSY has been immersing himself in Chinese culture since taking on the role of business development manager for Maison Hennessy in 2017. Within two months of starting, he’d already traveled to Shanghai, and since then, he pays regular visits to key cities in the region. Fluent in five languages, he is currently studying Mandarin to enrich his experience as he takes charge of the famed brand’s strategic expansion across China, ensuring the continued growth of his family’s legacy on the Asian continent.

“I grew up around it and it was always just part of me,” he says of the legendary spirit his

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COURTESY OF HENNESSY

An eighth-generation scion of the renowned Cognac dynasty builds bridges to Asia.

Roch Hennessy speaks at the unveiling of Pardis Impérial’s newly designed Ethereal bottle.

Roch Hennessy 在轩尼诗百乐廷皇禧 Ethereal 酒瓶的发布会上发表讲话。

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE | TK |

101

More than one hundred VIPs from Hong Kong and Macau attended the event. 超过一百名来自港澳两地的嘉宾参加了发布会。

family has been producing for over two hundred fifty years. “Now I go to amazing places and meet amazing people and promote our Cognac all around the world. I meet the end consumer, the final destination of the spirit’s journey. But when I go back home to Cognac, I come down to earth, to the core elements, and I speak with the men and women who work the vineyards every day. It’s a humbling experience.”

The creation of Cognac involves an elaborate and precarious process that requires careful and committed workers, and Hennessy fully appreciates the skills and dedication of his team. “There are so many things that can go wrong at any time,” he says. “When you pick the grapes, when you press the grapes – it can go wrong when you filter, when you distill, when you put it in the oak barrels, and when you blend. It’s important to have this very, very meticulous approach. The men and women who work every day, they’re passionate about it, you know – they live for Cognac.”

Hennessy, who views his role partly as a bridge between

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自 2017 年 担 任 轩 尼 诗 的 业 务 发 展 经 理 以 来，Roch Hennessy 始 终 沉 浸 于 中 国 的 文 化 氛 围， 任 职 两 个 月内就已前往上海，此后也定期走访各个主要城市。

Roch 精通五种语言，负责轩尼诗在中国的拓展策略 以确保家业能在亚洲持续增长，因此他正在学习普通 话以增广见闻。 谈到家族已经生产了超过二百五十年的传奇佳 酿，他说 ： 「我在家耳濡目染，轩尼诗早已成为我的 一部分。如今，我走过许多优美的地方，遇到美好的 人，并在世界各地推广我们的干邑，也与终端消费者 相会，那是美酒的最终归属。然而，当回到法国干邑 时，我脚踏实地、溯本求源，与天天都在葡萄园工作 的工人交谈。那些时候，我总是虚怀若谷。 」 干邑的酿制必须经过一段繁复且不稳定的过程， 需要工人细心致志，因此 Roch 十分赏识其团队的技 「任何事随时都可能出错，不管 能与奉献。Roch 说 ： 是采摘葡萄、辗压葡萄、过滤、蒸馏，还有把它置于

WINE MASTER

COURTESY OF HENNESSY (2)

France and China, enjoys sharing stories of his homeland with customers in the East and is equally pleased to let the team in Cognac understand how much their product is enjoyed by Chinese customers. “I show them photos from my trips of how consumers are drinking it, the kinds of meals they pair it with, the places where they consume it.” Hennessy was impressed by China’s gastronomic heritage and diversity of cuisines, but especially by how well Chinese dishes pair with stronger spirits. “I think everywhere in China you have this culture of hard spirits with food – it’s something you grow up with. They really pair very well.”

He knew little about the country before starting his job in 2017, but after his initial visit Hennessy was determined to learn more. “I came back from China in July and I started Mandarin classes in August. It’s been very gratifying intellectually, and having this experience opened my mind even more. China has four thousand years of continuous civilization. It’s important to understand this heritage, to understand the business culture, to understand the way of thinking, which is quite different. And for some reason, the more I learn and the more it makes sense to me, the more I want to know. I’m very far from mastering it all, but now I’ve got the bug!”

橡木桶或搅拌混合时，都有可能出现失误，因此，一 丝不苟的制程万分重要，而天天工作的员工对此满怀 热情，他们愿意为干邑而活。 」

Roch 自视为中法间的桥梁，喜欢与亚洲客户分 享他老家的故事，同时也乐于让干邑团队了解他们 的产品多么受中国客户喜爱。他说 ： 「我会向他们展 示我旅行的照片，包括消费者如何享用干邑、搭配 餐酒的菜式，以及饮用时的场所。 」Roch 对中国的 美食传统和料理多样性印象深刻，尤其是中国佳肴 与烈酒的美妙配搭。他说 ： 「我想中国各地都有美食 配烈酒的文化，大家从小就见闻习染。餐酒搭配也 真是绝妙。 」 在 2017 年开始工作之前，他对中国所知甚少， 「我 7 月从 但初访后，Roch 便求知心切。他表示 ： 中国回来，8 月开始上普通话课。我对知识上的成 长 感 到 满 意， 而 这 经 历 也 使 我 大 开 眼 界。 中 国 有 四千年绵延不绝的文明，拥有一套不同的传统、商 业文化、思维方式，因此探究个中奥妙至关重要。 不知怎地，当我学得越多，领悟就越多，也就想知 道更多。尽管距离精通尚有千里之遥，但现在我已 经掌握了诀窍！」

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

UWE European G/F, 252 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道252号 q +852 2546 8665 Mon-Sat: 19:00-22:00 5

Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 杜卡斯餐厅

Foodgears Industrial International Ltd.

Quinary

Contemporary French Level 3, Morpheus, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地摩珀斯酒店3楼 q +853 8868 3432 Tue-Sun: 18:30-22:30

福基国际工业股份有限公司

5

5

Amber Contemporary French 7/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15 号置地文华东方酒店7楼 q +852 2132 0066 Lunch: 12:00-14:00 Dinner: 18:00-21:00 5

Arbor Innovative French 25/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中80号H Queen’s 25楼 q +852 3185 8388 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30 until late

Room 3105, New Tech. Plaza, 34 Tai Yau Street, San Po Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙新蒲岗大有街34号新科技广场3105 室 q +852 2322 1222

The Grand Palace 励皇轩 5

Fisherman’s Wharf, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门友谊大马路渔人码头励宫酒店2楼 q +853 8801 8008

Lunch: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00

5

Aulis Hong Kong Contemporary British UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道255号信和广场UG08铺 q +852 2817 8383 Dinner: 19:00-22:30

DAVID HARTUNG

5

Innovative Chinese 2/F, Legend Palace Hotel, Macau

Tin Lung Heen 天龙轩 5

Cantonese Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Ctr., 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong

香港九龙柯士甸道西1号环球贸易广场香港 丽思卡尔顿酒店102楼 q +852 2263 2270

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30; Sat-Sun: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Bar 56-58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷里活道56-58 号 q +852 2851 3223 Mon-Sat: 17:00-1:00

Roganic Hong Kong Contemporary British UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道255号信和广场UG08铺 q +852 2817 8383 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:00 Closed on Mondays 5

Vida Rica Bar 御苑酒廊 Bar 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, n.°945, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新口岸新填海区孙逸仙大马路 945 号 澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8928 Mon-Thu: 17:00-Midnight Fri: 17:00-01:00 Sat: 15:00-01:00 Sun: 15:00-Midnight Afternoon Tea: Sat-Sun: 15:00-18:00 Happy Hour: 17:00-20:00

5

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LAST CALL

From mixologist Antonio Lai of Hong Kong’s Quinary bar comes Mineral de Pozos, a super-refreshing summer cocktail named after a charming Mexican ghost town known for its lavender farms. Patrón Silver tequila, Italicus liqueur infused with lavender, and clarified grapefruit juice are carbonated in a Perlini shaker, poured into a Champagne glass, and garnished with a grapefruit twist.

的清爽调酒。调酒名 Mineral de Pozos 是墨西哥一个以薰衣草农场闻名的神秘鬼城， Antonio 糅合该城镇的特色，把培恩银樽龙舌兰酒、薰衣草风味 Italicus 利口酒和经 过滤的西柚汁放入 Perlini，带来绵密汽泡口感。最后倒在放有冰块的香槟杯中，并 以西柚装饰。

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DAVID HARTUNG

香港「Quinary」酒吧的调酒师 Antonio Lai 为客人准备了一款适合在炎炎夏日享用

T:8” S:7.5”

WE DIDN’T INVENT THE SUMMER COCKTAIL The perfect summer cocktail starts with Patrón. Handcrafted in small batches using 100% Weber Blue Agave, the signature smooth taste of Patrón will elevate all your favorite drinks. We didn’t invent the summer cocktail,

WE JUST PERFECTED IT.

For this recipe and others visit patrontequila.com/cocktails The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. ©2019 Patrón tequila. The Patrón logo and Patrón bee logo are trademarks.

Imported by The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. Tequila – 40% alc. by vol.

T:10.875”

S:10.375”

PATRÓNIC