TK44 Heart of Italy by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 44

H E A R T

K I T C H E N O F

I T A L Y

SANT’AGATA SUI DUE GOLFI

Heart of Italy 「意」心一意

FRANCIACORTA

Sparkling with Style 酒杯藏珠

VIETRI SUL MARE

Italian Inspirations 意国灵感

WHEN TEQUILA, WHEN IT IT COMES TO TEQUILA, WE’VE WE’VE GOT A GIFT. After we roast roast itit in in Afterhand-selecting hand-selecting only only the the finest finest Weber Blue Agave, we smallbatches batchesand and distill distill itit in in custom custom copper stills. This level small level of of detail detail ensureseach eachbottle bottle tastes tastes simply simply perfect. perfect. Finding the simply ensures simply perfect perfect person to to give give them them to is up to you. person

The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. ©2019. Patrón, its trade dress, and the bee logo are trademarks. The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. ©2019. Patrón, its trade dress, and the bee logo are trademarks. Handcrafted in Mexico. Imported by the Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. Tequila – 40% alc. by vol. Handcrafted in Mexico. Imported by the Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. Tequila – 40% alc. by vol.

STARTER

Antimo Merone, executive chef of Galaxy Macau’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, creates a vibrantly orange salmon roe cracker. One of the menu’s “welcome bites,” it features a crisp potato tuile topped with house-cured ikuraand seaweed mayonnaise. The glistening roe pops gently on the palate, releasing a briny wave of fresh sea flavor.

DAVID HARTUNG

在「澳门银河™」的「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」餐厅，其中一道欢迎小吃是颜色亮丽的鲑鱼籽薄脆。行政总厨Antimo Merone把经腌制的鲑鱼籽和紫菜蛋黄酱放在香脆的薯仔薄脆上，在味蕾上绽放清新的海洋滋味。

TK | heart of italy

T A S T I N G 44

H E A R T

K I T C H E N O F

I T A L Y

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Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Italy, presents an amusebouche of fresh summer vegetables with tomato sorbet and turmeric coulis. Reflecting Chef Alfonso Iaccarino’s commitment to farm-to-table cuisine, the restaurant’s produce is grown nearby at La Peracciole, his seventeen-acre organic farm. Read more about the Iaccarino family’s ardently perfectionist approach to fine dining, beginning on page 16.

TK | heart of italy

意大利圣安格塔苏德格尔夫村的「当奥丰素1980」餐厅以番茄雪葩和姜黄酱创造一道充满盛夏气息的餐前点心。大厨Alfonso Iaccarino 秉承「农场直送餐桌」的原则，所用的农产品均来自他位于餐厅附近、17英亩的La Peracciole有机农场。翻阅第16页，了解更多Iaccarino家庭对完美餐饮的热切追求。

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2019

Photography by David Hartung

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. We open this issue, Heart of Italy, with three stories about contemporary artisans and their creative interpretations of Italy’s ancient ceramic traditions. Next, we take a car, boat, and walking tour through Franciacorta, the beautifully scenic area of Lombardy that has been producing sparkling wines for centuries. Today, the world-class wines known as Franciacorta, focusing on small production and high quality, are hidden treasures whose cachet is quickly growing beyond the boundaries of Italy. Then we come to a story that is the eloquent essence of the issue. It starts in August, when I traveled with Ada Chio and TK Director of Photography David Hartung to Campania and the village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. On our third afternoon there, I sat on the terrace of famed restaurant Don Alfonso 1890 with Livia Iaccarino, one of Italy’s first female sommeliers and the wife of Chef Alfonso Iaccarino. It had become clear during our stay that everything the couple has accomplished comes from a place of deep devotion, to their restaurant and hotel, certainly, but above all to their family and to each other. I began indirectly by asking Livia about the pioneering organic farm they’d planted nearly three decades ago on the side of a hill facing Capri. But then I broached the subject I most wanted to know about: “Livia, how did you meet Alfonso and fall in love?” “We grew up together in this garden since we were children,” she said, looking over my shoulder toward the flowers behind me. I sat up straight and glanced down to make sure the voice recorder was on. “His mother didn’t like him to make a mess,” she laughed, “and she’d forbid him from going into the kitchen. And so he’d wait until ten o’clock at night after his mom had gone to sleep, and he’d say, ‘Livia, come, I’ll prepare something special for you.’ This was our life. Alfonso cooked and I tasted. Every dish was prepared just for me and I was so happy.” Sixty years later, Livia and Alfonso are still together in that lovely garden. Please come along with us on our journey into the heart of Italy.

MARK HAMMONS

TK | heart of italy

Fernet Hunter

Brunnwald, Austria

fernethunter.com

an insatiable appetite to explore and a thirst to push the boundaries of modern bartending. It is a transplant much like its creators.

ortnerschinko.com

Fernet Hunter is a creation born out of

CONTENTS

2 Starter

10 Tradition Renewed 12 Italian Inspirations • 14 Remembering a Ritual • 16 Heart of Italy 42 Sparkling with Style • 52 Nikkei Their Way • 66 Naturally Different • 70 Well-Protected Flavors • 74 Family Ties

14 108 102

116

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118 38 16

58 74

CONTENTS

128 Dessert

78 Something Different • 84 Edible Treasures • 86 Leg Up • 88 Reaching for Perfection • 92 Drinking with the Stars 96 Heavenly Fungus • 98 Fresh from Piedmont • 100 Full Potential • 102 A Taste of Alto Adige 108 The Future of Fruit • 110 Patrón à la Petrus • 112 Guarding the Treasures • 116 True to Terroir • 124 Listings

88 108 102

100

102

98 118 38

108

46 110

112

116 58 heart of italy

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FOOD & ART

重绎传统

tradition renewed Kiasmo’s bespoke ceramics draw on the ancient artistic heritage of Southern Italy to forge a modern style. 位于意大利「靴底」的莱切省，数世纪以来培育了不少杰 FOR CENTURIES, the province of Lecce, the heel tip of Italy’s boot, has nurtured 出的工匠和创新企业。 Kiasmo 是一间综合设计艺术工作 extraordinary artisans and innovative companies. Right at home in this creatively 室，坐落于莱切饶富创意的环境中，由设计师 Vincenzo fertile milieu is Kiasmo, a multidisciplinary design and art studio founded in 2011 D’Alba、创意总监 Francesco Maggiore 和首席 by a team made up of designer Vincenzo D’Alba, creative director BY 执行长 Mauro Melissano 在 2011 年共同成立。 Francesco Maggiore, and CEO Mauro Melissano. KATE NICHOLSON 通过表演艺术、产品设计到时装和建筑等 Through its multifarious projects, from performance art and product 多元项目，Kiasmo 的目标是捕捉与重拾地中 design to fashion and architecture, Kiasmo aims to capture and reclaim 海的文化遗产，将其幻化为现代表现形式。工作室生产的 the cultural legacies of the Mediterranean, transforming them into contemporary 陶瓷产品有工业用的可复制系列，以及由 Vincenzo 认证的 expressions. Among its ceramics output, the studio produces both industrial, repro一次性艺术品。 ducible ranges and one-off artistic pieces certified and signed by D’Alba. 独特的表面装饰呈现出 Kiasmo 陶器一贯的设计，彩 Distinctive surface decoration is the thread that runs through the design of all

TK | heart of italy

VALENTINA SCHITO (5)

of Kiasmo’s pottery. Painted symbols, formal abstractions, and figurative imagery are based on the artisanal traditions of Puglia, and color choices range from stark black and white to sumptuous touches of Byzantine gold. The twelve plates in the Paradise and Prose series pictured here are, says D’alba, “characterized by the chromaticism of black and gold.” A signature series for Kiasmo, they represent “a synthesis between classical and modern culture – the decorative motifs are intended as a list of shapes and symbols inherited from history.” There’s also a touch of humor in some of the illustrations, inspired by Italy’s graphic comics tradition. Among Kiasmo’s most exciting projects are its customized collaborations with restaurants and chefs. For Michelin-starred restaurant Umami in Andria, D’Alba designed a series of dishes inspired by his creative dialogue with Chef Felice Sgarra. Chef Gianvito Matarrese of EVO Ristorante in Alberobello regularly selects tableware from Kiasmo for his gastronomic and stylistic studies. And D’Alba even performed a four-handed plating experiment with Chef Enrico Bartolini at his three-Michelinstar restaurant in Milan, Enrico Bartolini MUDEC. “My practical vocation,” says D’Alba, “allows me to constantly face new challenges. Materials are combined, colors mixed, matter reformed, and tradition renewed.”

绘符号、形式抽象和象征图示都是基于普利亚的工艺传统，颜色的选择范围涵盖纯正的黑白到奢华的拜占庭金「Paradise and Prose 系列中的十二黄。Vincenzo 说：件陶盘就是以黑金两色为主。」Kiasmo 的招牌系列代表着「古典与现代文化的融合，即装饰花纹是历史留下的形状与图案」，有些绘图还带有来自意大利漫画传统的幽默感。

Kiasmo 最惊艳的项目之一是与餐厅和主厨的订制合作， Vincenzo 为安德里亚的米其林星级餐厅「Umami」设计一系列餐盘，其灵感来自与主厨 Felice Sgarra 的创意对话。阿贝罗贝洛「EVO Ristorante」的主厨

Gianvito Matarrese 则经常向 Kiasmo 挑选餐具，就是看重他在美食与风尚方面的考究。Vincenzo 甚至还在米兰的米其林三星餐厅「Enrico Bartolini MUDEC」中与主「追求厨 Enrico Bartolini 表演了四手摆盘实验。他说：实用使我能够不断面对新挑战，混搭媒材、融合色彩、改良物件并重绎传统。」 heart of italy

TK |

I N P S I R E D L I V I N G

意国灵感

italian inspirations Kate Nicholson visits a fourth-generation family-run pottery whose collections celebrate vibrant Mediterranean motifs.

IN THE 1930S , an Italian newspaper wrote of a mustached figure sitting authoritatively at a potter’s wheel in a room full of vases as he molded clay with a speed and confidence that his three skilled assistants were unable to match. The man was Vincenzo Solimene, founder of studio Solimene Art, located in the town of Vietri sul Mare on the famed Amalfi Coast. Today, the pottery is run by Solimene’s great-grandson, artist Pierfrancesco Solimene. He continues to carry on production in the company factory in Vietri, whose dramatic setting, he says, is a constant creative stimulus: “Try to imagine Vesuvius behind me and the Gulf of Salerno in front of me.”

TK | heart of italy

1930 年代，一份意大利报章记载了这样一个故事：在一间满是花瓶的房内，有位留有小胡子的人物霸气地坐在拉坯机旁，其塑陶时的速度与自信让三位熟练的助手望尘莫及。他就是 Vincerzo Solimene，位于知名阿玛菲海岸的维耶特利苏玛雷镇上的 Solimene Art 工作室的创始人。艺术家 Pierfrancesco Solimene 是 Vincerzo 的曾孙。家族陶业现在由 Pierfrancesco 经营，位于维耶特利的企业工厂依然在生产营运。Pierfrancesco 说，多变的环境

PIERFRANCESCO SOLIMENE

Plates, platters, bowls, and vases are wheel-thrown and hand-decorated with the pottery’s signature brilliant-hued glazes. “When I paint, I like to be inspired by the piece itself,” says Solimene, who has been drawn since childhood to the natural, unpredictable textures of the clay. He finds an imperfect surface the ideal canvas for his artistry. “I’m satisfied,” he says, “only when shape and imagery are in balance.” His collections feature abstract designs, with lines and points that morph together to form unique organic patterns. Solimene’s Alici series, the most well-known of the studio’s output, features vividly painted anchovies, an iconic Mediterranean harvest from the sea, that are applied with just three deftly executed brushstrokes. Dinnerware by Solimene can be found in leading restaurants across Italy, Japan, Switzerland, France, and the United Kingdom, including Tokyo’s Trattoria Tsukiji Paradiso and London’s Novikov Restaurant & Bar. His creations, say Solimene, are ideally suited to the serving of traditional Italian fare: “My favorite dish, one I believe really captures the essence of the culinary traditions of Southern Italy, is spaghetti with an anchovy sauce called colatura di alici . It comes from the little fishing village of Cetara near Solerno, and it’s a dish that’s perfectly suited to my plates.”

正是源源不绝的创意来源：「想像一下在我身后的维苏威火山，以及我眼前的萨莱诺湾。」餐盘、浅盘、汤碗和花瓶都是以拉坯制成，并使用手「彩绘时，工绘制陶器的招牌亮面釉料，Pierfrancesco 说：我喜欢从作品本身寻找灵感。」他从小就崇尚陶土天然且变化莫测的质地，认为不完美的陶土表面才是发挥艺术美感的理想画布。他说：「只有形状和图案相互平衡，我才会满意。」他的作品以抽象设计为主，用点、线幻化成独特的生动图案。工作室最著名的作品是 Solimene’s Alici 系列，特色是栩栩如生的彩绘鯷鱼，仅以三道巧妙的笔触就能活灵活现地表现出极具地中海特质的渔获。

Pierfrancesco 的餐具遍及意大利、日本、瑞士、法国和英国的顶级餐厅，包括东京的「Trattoria Tsukiji

Paradiso」和伦敦的「Novikov Restaurant & Bar」。 Pierfrancesco 说，他的作品非常适合用于传统意式美食：「我最喜欢的料理是鯷鱼酱意大利面，这源于萨莱诺附近的切塔拉小渔村。我觉得这道料理捕捉到南意大利料理传统的精髓，与我的餐盘简直是绝配。」 heart of italy

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传统回溯

remembering a ritual Milan-based designer Roberto Sironi revives and reinterprets an age-old Italian custom.

在二十世纪初以前，意大利南部的乡村地区几乎每 COMMUNAL OVENS were a familiar sight in village centers across 个村庄都会有一个公共窑炉，它们通常由村庄中的 rural Southern Italy until the early twentieth century. Operated by 女性或是烘焙师掌管。窑炉极为重要，不仅能让村 women from the community or the local baker, these essential facili民烘烤一天或一周份量的面包作为主食，更是村民 ties were a place where villagers gathered not only to bake their 交流新知或小道消息、畅谈政治议题、以物换物的 daily or weekly bread but also to exchange news and gossip, debate 场所。村民在家里准备好面团，再在面 politics, and barter for goods. The unbaked loaves were BY 团上印上每家每户的姓氏开头字母或是 prepared in the residents’ homes, where they were KATE NICHOLSON 独特家徽，在窑炉烘烤完成后才便于辨 stamped with each family’s initials or emblem for easy • 识。 identification after baking. BREAD STAMPS BY 手工刻印而成的木制面包印章曾是 Hand-carved from wood, bread stamps were ROBERTO SIRONI 家家户户世代流传的传家宝，但现在每 passed down through families for generations. Today, 个家庭几乎都有烤炉，公共窑炉跟面包 with an oven in virtually every home, the practice of 印章的传统便渐渐消失。 communal baking, along with the stamping of bread, has all but died 米兰设计师 Roberto Sironi 希望再尽力保留这 out. 种传统，使其免于完全消失殆尽，因此他特别到南 Seeking to explore this cultural artifact before it disappears 意的马泰拉和普利亚古城寻找相关的文物。这两个 forever, designer Roberto Sironi traveled to Italy’s Matera and Apulia 区域的村庄，过去都设有公共窑炉，这更是居民生 regions, regions where communal ovens were once integrally woven 「共同烤面包活不可或缺的一部分。Roberto 表示： into the fabric of life. “This was a tradition that played the role of

TK | heart of italy

FEDERICO VILLA (3)

FOOD & DESIGN

mediator and social glue in relation to a staple food that was considered the basis of nutrition,” Sironi explains. “In fact, to the families in Matera, the stamping of bread was not just a way of recognizing their property, it also became a ritual of social sharing.” When he returned to the studio after his anthropological research, Sironi set out to develop a design that would hint at the “symbolic, apotropaic forms inspired by the agro-pastoral world” found in the traditional stamps he encountered. The result was Madre Pane, meaning “mother bread,” a collection of four pieces made from refractory ceramic, the same material used to line bread ovens. Madre Pane is produced by hand by Ceramiche Puzzo in Milan, and purchasers of the collection can order it customized with their initials. “I designed stamps that abstractly represent the egg, the mother hen, the tree, and the millstone,” says Sironi. “They carry the respective meanings of birth, maternal protection, growth, and strength – all of them fundamental concepts in rural-life cosmology. I think of them as small earthen sculptures that tell a slice of Italian rural-life history that should not be forgotten.”

的传统不仅为居民提供重要的美味营养主食，还具有纠纷调解、加强村庄凝聚力的功能。其实，对马泰拉的居民而言，在面包上盖徽章的传统，不只用来辨识自家面包，更是一种人与人之间的社交仪式。」

Roberto 完成这趟人类学探索之旅，回到个人工作室后，便开始从他见过的传统面包印章中寻求灵感，设计制作「发源于农牧生活，具有象征性、趋吉避凶」的图样，打造出新系列「Madre

Pane」，字面意思是「母亲的面包」，共有四款以耐热陶瓷制作的印章，由米兰名厂 Ceramiche

Puzzo 手工制作而成，而且还提供客制化服务，可印上消费者的姓氏开头字母。「这个系列以抽象的方式象征 Roberto 指出：蛋、母鸡、大树、里程碑，分别代表诞生、母爱的护佑、成长与力量，都是乡村生活哲学中非常重要的概念。这些陶瓷雕刻都各自诉说一段珍贵的意大利农村历史故事，不应被世人遗忘。」 heart of italy

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COVER STORY

Heart of Italy 「意」心一意

A renowned chef and his family bring the sunny flavors and warm hospitality of Campania to the world. BY MARK HAMMONS

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

HEART OF ITALY | TK |

COVER STORY

LFONSO COOKED AND I TASTED. This

is how it’s been for our whole life.” Livia Iaccarino begins her story with soft eyes and a nostalgic smile. “We grew up together in this garden since we were children. When Alfonso was twelve years old, he was very passionate – he loved to paint and he loved to cook. But his mother didn’t like him to make a mess and she forbid him from going into the kitchen. And so he’d wait until ten o’clock at night after his mom had gone to sleep, and he’d say: ‘Livia, come, I’ll prepare something special for you.’ “Alfonso studied cookbooks from famous chefs, and he tried to make a chocolate soufflé for me. It would rise in the oven, but when he took it out, it would collapse. And so he tried again and again, making the soufflé in many different ways until it was perfect. “Every night he would prepare something especially for me. My job was to clean, to clean everywhere. Because the next morning the chefs would come and look in the kitchen, and if something was in a different spot they’d say ‘Ooooh, this is a disaster! Where is Alfonso?!’ If something was amiss they knew exactly why – Alfonso had been in the kitchen with me. “This was our life. Alfonso cooked and I tasted. Every dish was prepared just for me and I was so happy.” It’s now been more than sixty years since Alfonso cooked his first dish for Livia, and they’re still together in the same garden. Every guest at Don Alfonso 1890 starts their journey with a refreshing glass of lemonade and a greeting from Livia, whose gracious presence seems to channel the warmth of generations of Italian hospitality. The restaurant is nestled beside the church in the village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, which straddles a hill along the Amalfi Coast overlooking both the Bay of Naples and the Bay of Salerno. The nearest city is Sorrento, only six miles away, but even now, it takes at least thirty minutes to drive up steep and narrow roads that twist through small villages and lemon groves. When Chef Alfonso’s father was growing up, it was a journey made only by horse. In 1990, Chef Alfonso began a serious study of the history of world tourism. To deepen his understanding, he decided to take his wife and two

TK | heart of italy

「Alfonso 担任大厨，而我就充当食客。在日常生活中，这一直是我们两个的相处模式。」

Livia Iaccarino 眼带温暖，面露怀旧的微笑谈起她的故事。「我们从小就在这座花园一起成长。那年 Alfonso 十二岁，他活力十足，喜欢绘画和烹饪，但是妈妈不喜欢他把地方弄得乱七八糟，于是禁止他进厨房，所以等到晚上『Livia，十点妈妈睡觉后，Alfonso 就会说：过来！我来为妳做些特别的东西。』」「Alfonso 研究了名厨的食谱，试着为我做出朱古力梳乎厘。当时梳乎厘会在烤箱中膨胀，但是当他取出时就会塌下去，于是他一再尝试各种不同的做法，直到做出完美的成品为止。」「每晚他都会为我做些东西，而我的工作则是整理和清洁厨房。这是因为隔天一早厨师们会进到厨房检查，如果有东西摆在不同的位置，他们就会说：『噢！真是场灾难，

Alfonso 在哪里？』一有什么不对劲，他们肯定就知道我和 Alfonso 曾一起待在厨房里。」「这就是我们的日常生活，Alfonso 担任大厨，而我充当食客。每道料理都是为我专门准备的，让我倍感欢欣。」距 Alfonso 为 Livia 做出人生第一道料理已有六十多年，如今他们仍然住在同一座花园中。每位「当奥丰素 1890 意式料理」的宾客都在一杯沁凉的柠檬水和 Livia 的招呼声中开启美食之旅，Livia 的亲切款待就像是承袭了好几代意大利人的热情好客。餐厅坐落于圣安格塔苏德格尔夫村的教堂旁边，教堂跨立于阿玛菲海岸的一座山丘，俯瞰着那不勒斯湾和萨勒诺湾。最靠近餐厅的城市是距离六英里的索伦托，即使现

Alfonso and Livia Iaccarino

HEART OF ITALY | TK |

Each of Don Alfonso 1890’s eight boutique rooms offers its own unique view 别墅的八间精品客房都有其独特风景

TK | heart of italy

COVER STORY

sons on a real-life tour of the best hospitality the world had to offer. Using most of his savings and starting from Rome, he led them first on an exploration of Cairo and Marrakesh. They traveled west to The Savoy in London and the Waldorf Astoria in New York, through Los Angeles to The Peninsula in Hong Kong, and on to The Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, whose Hemingway Suite made a vivid impression. He also visited Hotel Lisboa in Macau, never guessing that seventeen years later, in 2007, he’d return to set up his own popular restaurant, now named Casa Don Alfonso, at the Grand Lisboa. During their trip, Chef Alfonso and his family sampled new flavors everywhere they went, from Peking duck in Beijing to pad thai in Bangkok. But by the end of the journey, he was convinced that his mission was not to incorporate the flavors of the world into his Italian food; it was rather to do everything he could to promote the outstanding produce of his home in Campania at a time when much of Italy was enthralled with French culinary approaches and trying to fancify pasta with dollops of caviar and foie gras. Soon after their return, Chef Alfonso and Livia were given a villa to live in by their family, but rather than occupying the spacious house, they sold the property within two days and used the proceeds to buy seventeen acres of farmland on the side of a hill facing Capri. “People said Alfonso is crazy,” he recalls. “I’d invested all my money, but there was nothing here, no water, no electricity. And now people come from all over the world.” As we drive to the farm, Alfonso parks beside the road, shouting greetings of buonasera to his friends. He has thought about replacing his aging Fiat, but the newer models are wider and wouldn’t fit in the impossibly narrow lane that winds down the Punta Campanella hillside to his farm, known as La Peracciole. The first stop just past the gated entrance is a site that will become his future home. The shell is a Roman-style structure dating from around 1700, and the space inside is being completely renovated, with plans for a studio,

在，到达餐厅还需先穿过蜿蜒小村庄和柠檬林的陡峭狭窄之路，车程也要花费至少三十分钟。在 Alfonso 的父亲年少时，还只能依靠骑马上山。

1990 年，Alfonso 开始认真钻研全球旅游业的历史。为了更深刻体会，他决定带着妻子和两个儿子去四处游历，亲身体验世上最好的待客之道。当时，Alfonso 带上他大部分的积蓄，从罗马出发，先带着家人探索开罗和马拉喀什。其后，他们向西到伦敦 The Savoy 和纽约华尔道夫酒店，穿越洛杉矶到达香港半岛酒店，再到达曼谷文华东方酒店，其中的海明威套房令他难以忘怀。他当时也造访了澳门的葡京酒店，但意想不到的是他会在 2007 年，也就是十六年后重返，并在当地开设自己的人气餐厅「当奥。丰素 1890 意式料理」在他们的旅途中，Alfonso 和家人到处品尝新风味，从北京的烤鸭到曼谷的炒河粉，但在旅程的最后，他相信自己的使命不是将世界风味融入他的意式料理中，而是尽一切努力来推广家乡坎帕尼亚的出色农产品，因为当时大部分的意式餐厅都痴迷于法式烹饪，试着用鱼子酱和鹅肝酱来装饰意大利面。回家后不久，Alfonso 和 Livia 承接了家族的别墅，但他们并没有将那间宽敞的房子占为己用，而是在两天内售出，并用收益买了卡普里岛山丘那边的十七英亩农田。他忆道：「当时大家都说 Alfonso 疯了，我投入了所有的钱，但是农田却空无一物，没水又没电。然而，现在大家都从世界各地慕名而来。」当我们开车去农场，Alfonso 停在路旁，向他的朋友们大声问候晚上好。他曾考虑过换掉老旧的菲亚特车，但新的车款较宽，不适合极度狭窄的道路，而这条路就是会沿着蓬塔坎帕内拉山坡蜿蜒而下，通往他的 La Peracciole 农场。经过大门后的第一区正建造着他未来的住处，外观为可追溯至十八世纪左右的罗马建筑，内部已完全翻新，有工作室、餐厅、厨房和壁炉。

Alfonso 即将在一月年满七十三岁，他希望在下一个生日前，每天早晨都可以在这间前有农场美景、后有卡普里岛的卧室里醒来。下山后转几个弯就是农场，Alfonso 一边以剩余的青酱斜管面喂食鸡群，一边说道：「在中国，鸡食米粒，但在这里却吃着意大利面。」除了将近五十只鸡，他还有一头牛、三只狗、七只野猫、几十只燕子和几只在空中翱翔的猎鹰，还有蜂巢生产蜂蜜并进行重要的授粉工作。橄榄树已有五十至五百年的历史，需要一百公斤的果实才能榨出十到十三公升的特级初榨橄榄油。著名的「当奥丰素」柠檬被公认 heart of italy

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dining room, kitchen, and fireplace. Chef Alfonso turns seventy-three in January, and by his following birthday he hopes to wake up every morning in the bedroom here, with views of his farm in front and the island of Capri in back. Down the hill and around a few corners starts the farm proper. “In China, the chickens eat rice, but here they eat spaghetti,” says Chef Alfonso as he shares some leftover pesto penne with his flock. Along with nearly fifty chickens, he has one cow, three dogs, seven wild cats, dozens of swallows, and several soaring falcons. Hives of bees produce honey and also perform important pollination work. The olive trees are between fifty and five hundred years old, and it takes a hundred kilograms of the fruit to make between ten and thirteen liters of extra virgin olive oil. The famous Don Alfonso lemons – considered among the best in the world – flower in May and are left on the tree, with workers picking just enough every day for the needs of the restaurant. An impressive 92 percent of the restaurant’s produce is grown at the farm, which is fully organic. Biodynamic minerals are used to enrich the soil, and leftover oranges, manure, and coffee grounds are turned into compost. Along with the famous Amalfi Coast lemons, other fruits include mandarins, grapefruit, cherries, blackberries, grapes, figs, peaches, apricots, prickly pears, and apples. Vegetables include aubergines, pumpkins, broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, fava beans, peppers, chilies, spinach, carrots, wild herbs, tomatoes (cherry and San Marzano), capers, oregano, and artichokes. According to Livia, when they first bought the property, the earth was sick. Pesticides had killed everything and the tomatoes tasted synthetic and fake. To heal the land, they bought fifteen cows and used organic fertilizer to rebuild the soil. “We knew nothing, but we had passion,” she says. “We called professors from the university of agriculture and they helped us to

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COVER STORY

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heart of italy

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TK | HEART OF ITALY

HEART OF ITALY | TK |

COVER STORY

work the land in the right way. It was hard, very hard. But we worked night and day to fulfill our mission.” Not everyone shared their vision for the farm and the restaurant. “My father,” says Livia, “was so disappointed when we started this adventure. He thought I’d become poor and that I’d sold the villa and renounced the family hotel business for nothing. Later they understood, and my father was so proud. He’d say, ‘Livia, I always knew you were clever – you’re just like your dad.’ Everywhere he went, he’d tell people he was Livia’s father, because by then the world came to Don Alfonso, and the world invited us to come and cook for them in their royal palaces. In 1983 we began to devote ourselves entirely to the restaurant. In 1985 we earned our first Michelin star, in 1993 the second, and in 1997 our third.” The couple’s younger son, Mario, leads the front of the house, where he not only charms new guests and gives them the unforgettable Don Alfonso experience but also remembers a lot of old names. “Half of the dining room each night is repeat guests, and after a while they become more than customers, they become friends.” And a number of Mario’s friends can become quite persuasive when they need a table. “Some of our guests call me from their yachts. They have my mobile number and they don’t ask me if I have a table – they tell me they’re coming tonight with a group of ten.” The restaurant, with just one seating a night, doesn’t believe in turning its tables. Guests are encouraged to savor the experience and stay as late into the night as they like. A full house is sixty, but that can be stretched up to ninety for special circumstances, with the courtyard, terrace, and even the cooking school and library able to accommodate guests. For thirteen years, Mario developed a successful career in hotels and hospitality across Europe. When he and his brother were ready to come home and rejoin the family business, his mom recalls reminding

G R O U P E R S C E N T E D W I T H VA N I L L A A N D L E M O N , P OTATO P U R É E , A N C H O V I E S , CO L AT U R A Z A B A G L I O N E A N D V EG E TA B L E A S H 香草柠檬石斑鱼配土豆泥、鯷鱼露甜酱、鯷鱼和蔬菜飘片

This is a very technical and interesting dish, cooked direct sous vide. Many chefs will cook a dish sous vide and then reheat it before serving, but we cook the fish sous vide directly before serving at seventy-two degrees for between thirteen and fifteen minutes, depending on the part of the fish and the size. I touch every grouper every day and decide on how long each fish should be cooked. I write the time on the fish. When served, the fish needs to be between forty-eight and fifty-one degrees at the core, and so I only have two degrees leeway to make a perfect dish. It’s very tender and juicy, and I enjoy the technical challenge of this dish. Many guests ask how I do it. I say it’s like watching Roger Federer – he makes it look so easy. Rather than try and explain to them, I tell them they should just come here to eat!

这是道藉由真空低温烹调而成的高技术趣味菜式，许多厨师会先以真空低温烹调法将餐点准备起来，上桌前再重新加热，但是我们却是在上桌前才用真空低温法料理，在 72 度下烹调 13 到 15 分钟，时间取决于鱼肉的部位和大小。我每天都会摸着每一条石斑鱼决定应该用多长的时间来烹煮，并将时间标记在鱼身上。上桌时，鱼肉的核心温度必须在 48 至 51 度之间，因此我只有两度的转圜温度来制作出完美的餐点。这道菜尝起来非常软嫩多汁，而我就是喜欢其中的技术挑战。许多宾客会问我怎么办到的，我说这就像在看 Roger Federer，他让打网球看起来易如反掌，所以与其向宾客解释，我告诉他们，想吃就来这里吃吧！

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S PA G H E T T I W I T H M A C K E R E L IN CARPIONE ST YLE, BREADCRUMBS, PINE NUTS A N D C A N D I E D O N I O N S ,O N AN EMULSION OF TURNIPS A N D A L A LU N G A T U N A 醋腌鲭鱼意大利面配面包糠、松子和蜜渍洋葱佐芜菁吞拿鱼酱

We c o o k t h e m a c k e r e l a t a l o w temperature, but first we marinate it to set the acidity and level of saltiness. We cook it with garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper, with a cream of local white tuna emulsion on the bottom and with crispy bread, onions, pine nuts, and parsley. We boil our pasta for six minutes and forty seconds, and then finish in the pan with garlic and olive oil. This dish seems simple but is actually very complex and is perfectly aligned with our philosophy. Some things can be prepared ahead of time, but this dish needs to be made à la minute, and I have my four best guys working at the pasta station, because they have to be very consistent. And I’m there every night and I finalize all of the dishes, every single dish that comes out from the kitchen, especially the pasta dishes. This dish is a perfect example of the Mediterranean diet.

我们先腌制鲭鱼，达一定的酸度和咸度后再低温烹煮，与大蒜、橄榄油和辣椒

them of what they were getting into: “With Don Alfonso there is one way, only Don Alfonso. There’s nothing more – no Saturday, no Sunday, no Christmas, no Easter, there’s only Don Alfonso. If you love, you stay, if you don’t like, go now, not tomorrow – tomorrow is too late.” And Mario remembers replying, “Mom, why do you speak in this way? We know, we know what you do. We wish to stay here and continue your adventure.” Since then, says Livia, the brothers have worked relentlessly: “They never ask to go and dance on Saturday night, and this is nice, because they work with passion. Only if there’s the fire of passion inside can you work this way. Because you really cannot stop.” Mario credits his outside experience for exposing him to new ideas and preparing him to take over the business as the next generation. He has made essential revamps, including overhauling the booking system,

TK | heart of italy

一起料理，底部有当地白吞拿鱼奶酱，还搭配脆面包、洋葱、松子和欧芹，我们将意大利面滚煮六分四十秒后，置于平底锅中与大蒜和橄榄油作最后的拌炒。这道料理看似简单，实际上却非常复杂，而且还完美契合餐厅的经营哲学。有些部分可以提前准备，但是这道料理必须要现点现做，而为了使餐点品质一致，四位我最好的厨师在面食区负责料理，我每天晚上也都会在那儿，完成每道菜出餐前的最后手续，尤其是面食餐点。这道料理简直就是地中海饮食的完美典范。

without forgetting the foundational principles of hospitality. “When we hire new staff, we look for the heart and the soul,” he says. “Everything else you can train. When you come into a restaurant, there’s a rational part that’s studying the menu, checking if the glasses are clean, etc. We give huge attention to every single one of these details, and I have an operations manual – the rules – that staff need to memorize before they start work – where to put the fork, the knife, the tablecloth, what to do when the guest arrives. “Then there’s the second part, which is the feeling and which isn’t rational, and I believe it’s a question of energy. If I hire staff with dead energy, a negative energy, the guests will never come back. The service can be perfect, but they won’t feel happy. And so in our restaurant there’s always an energy exchange, and for me this has become a key

为世上最佳柠檬之一，会于五月开花，果实留在树上，由工人每天依餐厅的需求量来采摘。惊人的是，餐厅百分之九十二的农产品都来自农场，而且完全有机，用生物动力矿物质使土壤更加肥沃，用弃食的橘子、有机肥和咖啡渣做堆肥。除了著名的阿玛菲海岸柠檬，其他水果还包括橘子、葡萄柚、樱桃、黑莓、葡萄、无花果、桃子、杏子、刺梨和苹果，蔬菜则包括茄子、南瓜、西兰花、花椰菜、土豆、蚕豆、彩椒、辣椒、菠菜、胡萝卜、野生香草、番茄（樱桃番茄和圣马萨诺番茄）、酸豆、牛至和洋蓟。

Livia 说，当他们首次购买田地时，土地生 heart of italy

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S U M M E R V EG E TA B L E S F R O M O U R O R G A N I C FA R M L E P E R A CC I O L E AT P U N TA C A M PA N E L L A , TO M ATO S O R B E T A N D T U R M E R I C CO U L I S 蓬塔坎帕内拉有机农场 L E P E R A CC I O L E 的夏季蔬菜、番茄雪葩和姜黄酱

Our amuse-bouche starts with two vegetarian dishes, representing our belief that the world’s diet needs to change and move to fresh, organic, farm-to-table dishes. We use some technique to lighten the dish, but it varies based on the seasons. It’s a journey, because we have a touch of Asia with the turmeric and sweet-and-sour sauce, but the dish is still Mediterranean and local at its heart. 我们的餐前点心以两道蔬食料理揭开序幕，象征着餐厅的理念，相信全球饮食趋势需要改变，转向新鲜有机、产地到餐桌的料理。我们使用了某种让料理更加清盈爽口的技巧，但还是会依季节而有所调整。品尝时犹如徜徉在旅程中，因为我们用姜黄和糖醋酱带出亚洲气息，但是整道菜的核心仍属地中海以及意大利当地风味。

mission and the most important thing to find in our staff – this energy. You can see it in their eyes, the eyes are a window to everything. “I’m giving a huge portion of my life to help them become men but also to train them to become sharks. They need to be able to see from thirty meters away, from across the restaurant, if there’s something wrong at a table. This is what I’m teaching them every single day. If they’re clever, they see how you interact with the guests and they follow. For me, the guest is king, and they are the ultimate judges who tell us whether we’re doing well or not. Every single act that we do for our guests is to make them happy.” Creating that much happiness requires a serious commitment. Ernesto, Mario’s older brother, not only oversees the kitchen with Chef Alfonso but also manages the finances and business side of the restaurant. “In theory, we get one day off a week during the summer,” he says, “but in reality, when we really get busy, we sometimes work for a month straight. I was lucky to start in the kitchen when I was still young. It’s like learning a new sport – when you’re young, everything comes naturally, but if you start when you’re thirty, it’s hard.” Ernesto combines a chef’s passion for the kitchen with an analytical side (he graduated from university with a score of 109 out of 110) that has

着重病，杀虫剂杀死了万物，番茄的味道尝起来又假又人工。为了治愈土地，他们买了十五头母牛，并使用有机肥料重建土壤。她说：「我们当时一无所知，却满怀热情，我们联络了农业大学的教授，他们帮助我们以正确的方式耕种土地。当时实在是很艰难，但我们日以继夜地工作，完成了我们的任务。」并非人人对农场和餐厅都怀有相同的愿「我们刚开始发展时，我的父亲景。Livia 说：感到非常失望，觉得我会变得一贫如洗，因为他看着我白白卖掉了别墅又放弃了家族的旅馆生意，但是后来他们明白了，父亲还很自豪。他会说：『Livia，我一直都知道你跟你父亲一样聪明。』他广而告之，表示他是 Livia 的父亲，这是由于当人们来到「当奥丰素」，并邀请我们在世界各地的顶级胜地献上美食飨宴。

1983 年我们开始为餐厅昼夜工作，1985 年赢得首颗米其林星，1993 年摘得第二颗，1997 年摘得第三颗。」夫妻的小儿子 Mario 负责餐厅的接待工 heart of italy

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作，不仅吸引新来的宾客、为他们带来了难忘的「当奥丰素」体验，还记住了许多熟客的名字。他说：「餐厅每晚有一半都是熟客，很快便从顾客成为了朋友。」而且许多 Mario 的朋友在需要桌位时也会变得很有说服力。他称：「有些宾客有我的手机号码，会在他们的游艇上给我打电话，不是先询问我是否有空桌，而是直接告知他们今晚就是要一张十人的桌。」餐厅每晚只有一轮用餐时段，不会设想有第二轮，就是要让宾客细尝飨宴，用餐时间依其喜好，想待至深夜就待到深夜。餐厅有六十个座位，但在特殊情况下可以增加至九十位，庭院、露台，甚至烹饪学校和图书馆都可以接待宾客。 ←

十三年来，Mario 在整个欧洲的酒店住宿业发展了成功的

Spaghetti Don Alfonso

职业生涯。他的母亲回忆起那时候，当他和哥哥准备回到家乡

Don Alfonso 特色意大利粉

并重新加入家族事业时，她还提醒他们即将要面对的现实。她说：「要加入『当奥丰素』就只有一种方法，就是除了『当奥丰素』

↗ Chef Alfonso holds regular cooking classes at the restaurant for aspiring chefs who want to bring some of the Don Alfonso magic home with them Alfonso会定期在餐厅举办烹饪班，让有抱负的大厨能把「当奥丰素」的厨艺魔法带回家

以外什么也没有，没有周六、周日、圣诞节、复活节，只有『当奥丰素』。如果你喜爱，你就留下来；如果不喜欢，请现在就走，「妈不要等到明天，因为明天就太迟了。」Mario 记得他当时说：妈，您为什么要这么说？我们当然知道您在做什么，我们就是想要留在这里继续您的探险之旅。」「他们从 Livia 说，兄弟俩此后都夜以继日地工作。她说：不要求在星期六晚上去跳舞，这实在是太好了，因为这表示他们热爱工作，只有当内心充满着热情，才会如此工作，因为真的是停不下来。」 heart of italy

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The reowned Don Alfonso lemon grove 著名的「当奥丰素」柠檬树丛

Mario 感谢在外的经验使他接触到了新的想法，也为接管家业做好准备。他进行了重要的革新，包括全面改革订桌系统，同时不忘热情迎客的「当我们雇用新员工时，要求的是内在和灵魂，其余基本原则。Mario 说：一切都可以训练。进到餐厅时，有理性上的实务训练包括研究菜单、检查玻璃杯是否干净等等。我们非常注重每一项细节。我有一份工作手册，也就是规则，详列出员工在开始工作前牢记如何摆放叉子、刀子、桌布、当宾客到来时该做什么。」「接着第二个重点不是客观理性的，而是感觉。我觉得这是个关乎活力的问题，如果我雇用死气沉沉、充满负面能量的员工，客人将永远不会再来光临。服务依然可以做到完美，但宾客不会感到高兴，所以我们餐厅的交流总带有正能量，对我来言，这已成为关键任务。如此的活力在员工特质中也相当重要，从他们的双眼就得以窥见，因为眼睛是一切的窗口。」「我为他们付出了毕生精力，帮助他们成为男人，同时也训练他们成为『鲨鱼』，有能力从餐厅另一头三十米远之处察觉餐桌上是否有异状，这就是我每天都在传授给他们的。如果他们够聪明，就会观察到我如何与宾客互动，然后有样学样。对我来说，宾客就是国王、是最终裁判，由他们来评断我们做得好或不好，而我们为宾客所做的一切都是为了取悦他们。」要创造出这样的幸福需要立下很大的决心。Ernesto 是 Mario 的哥哥。还管理餐厅的财务和业务。他说：「理论上，他不仅与 Alfonso 一起监控厨房，夏季时我们周休一天，但实际上当我们一忙起来，有时会连续工作一个月。幸运的是，我从年轻时就开始在厨房里工作，就像是学习一项新运动，若在年轻时就接触，一切就会自然而然地上手，但如果在三十岁才开始，那就很难了。」

TK | heart of italy

A CO N C E R T O F L E M O N , F R A G R A N C E A N D F L AV O U R S 柠檬、香气、风味三重奏甜点

You can only find this dish here, where we have the best lemons in the world. Four different consistencies and made with egg and milk and lemon and sugar. If you want to taste the Don Alfonso lemons you need to come here – we don’t have enough to send them around the world. 只有在这里才见得到这道甜点，因为我们拥有世上最好的柠檬，用鸡蛋、牛奶、柠檬和糖制成甜点中四种相异的浓稠度。如果想品尝「当奥丰素」柠檬，敬请光临我们的餐厅，因为我们的柠檬产量有限无法配送到世界各地。

heart of italy

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COVER STORY

The Legendary Alfonso Cellar 『当奥丰素』传奇酒窖

Making Wine with Alfonso 与Alfonso的DIY酿酒轶事 BY L I V I A I A C C A R I N O

“WHEN ALFONSO WAS EIGHTEEN YEARS OLD , they had a cellar at his villa and they grew a variety of grapes called fragolino. When his family was out, we cut the grapes, pressed them, and wanted to make them into wine. Mamma mia, but it was a disaster! “We pressed the grapes by hand and separated the must from inside. We put everything in the jar and closed it. And the jar, after seven days, it exploded! Mamma mia, it was in the cellar of Alfonso’s mother. Everything was covered with grape juice. ‘Mamma mia! Where is Alfonso, where is Livia?’ she cried. ‘I’ll kill you both!’ “The entire cellar was covered with the grape juice and sugar and the glass from the jar. We made many disasters, because we loved to experiment. It was so exciting and we were so curious about the food and the wine. That’s my life, that’s been my life.”

T H E A L FO N S O W I N E C E L L A R is in a pre-Roman tunnel that dates back almost twenty-six centuries and that was rediscovered when Alfonso and Livia were children. Dug deep into the volcanic rock and naturally maintained at a constant cool temperature, it preserves a cache of twenty-five thousand bottles and fifteen hundred labels, with some aged cheese hanging at the very bottom. The caves, rumored to have been used as an escape route from invading Saracen pirates, are visited by winemakers from around the world, who often remark that the wines stored here taste better than those from their own cellars. The restaurant now has three sommeliers, but the original one was Livia herself, one of the first female sommeliers in Italy. “When you select the best products and serve the best food,” she says, “you need to serve the best wine. I studied for thirty-five years, and I love wine and the learning process, I love the perfume and the combination with the food. When you have good food, it lifts the wine and when you have good wine, it lifts the food – it’s a marriage.” 「当奥丰素」酒窖位于一个古罗马时代前便存在的隧道，历史长达 2600 年之久，后来 Alfonso、Livia 夫妻童年时发现这个隧道，如获至宝。这个深入地底的火山熔岩隧道俨然是天然冷藏恒温室，珍藏 1500 个品牌的 25000 瓶佳酿，最底层的空间还挂着熟成奶酪。据说，中古时代此地受到欧洲沿岸阿拉伯海盗侵扰时，当地人曾利用这个地窖逃生，现在全球各地许多酿酒商都曾经造访这个传奇酒窖，也常惊叹此处的葡萄酒比他们自家酒窖的藏品更美味。「当奥丰素」目前有三位侍酒師，刚开始仅有 Livia 一位，她也是意大利女性侍酒師先驱。她表示：「精心挑选

「Alfonso 十八岁时，家中别墅中有个酒窖，而且他家种了一些

最顶级的产品、最美味的佳肴之后，还必须搭配最棒的佐

fragolino 品种的葡萄，有一次他们家人外出，我们就去采摘葡

餐酒。我研究葡萄酒三十五年，对葡萄酒充满热爱，也十

萄，压榨成汁，以为这样就能酿成葡萄酒，妈妈咪呀，简直是

分享受这个研究学习的过程，尤其美酒香气以及与餐酒完

一场灾难。」

美搭配特别令人陶醉，好菜让美酒口感更温润，好酒对美

「我们用手按压葡萄，把葡萄浆分离出来，最后将一切全塞进罐中密封起来，七天之后，罐子居然爆开了！妈妈咪呀！而且还是在 Alfonso 母亲的地窖中爆开，葡萄汁液沾得到处都是，妈妈咪呀！他妈妈大叫：Alfonso 在哪里？ Livia 在哪里？我要宰了你们！」「瓶子爆开后葡萄汁跟甜浆四溅，破碎玻璃片也四处飞溅，整个酒窖一片狼藉。我们以前真的闯了好多祸，因为我们热衷做实验，刺激得不得了，我们对美食美酒充满好奇，这是我的人生，这就是我的人生。」

TK | heart of italy

食有提味效果，餐酒搭配就像是婚姻关系。」

COVER STORY

allowed him to help the family make bold and transformative investments in their collective future. In 2007, he persuaded them to make an eight-million-euro investment in creating hotel operations, building an underground car park, and more than doubling their footprint, all of which has helped them to continue attracting an increasingly upscale clientele. Taking their cumulative expertise to the world, the family has opened a total of eight restaurants in places as far afield as Toronto, Canada, and Helena Bay Lodge in New Zealand. “The world is changing,” says Ernesto. “Before, many chefs didn’t have a lot of higher education. But now, I need to meet with tycoons from China and oligarchs from Russia, I need to sit on a boat with Putin’s lawyer, and I have to talk. If you have this background, you’re more interesting and you’re able to present your project and your ideas. And so I have my formal studies, but I also have Don Alfonso. Don Alfonso has also been my school, where the world has come to teach me. “We were successful because we broke the rules. In the 1980s the best Italian restaurants in Italy were copying the French. We asked why. We’re in the south, we have three thousand years of history, we have our own unique way of making food. We have Mediterranean cuisine, a Mediterranean diet, we have incredible ingredients, we have heritage, and so we start from that. “That’s why Don Alfonso is different – it’s lighter. We only use extra virgin olive oil. Legumes, pasta – it’s very light to digest. The question was how to give the dishes shape and style, how to give them consistency. We had to develop a new way to make sauce so that it had a shape and style but still used healthy olive oil. “Our Spaghetti Don Alfonso is a perfect metaphor for our approach. In the ’80s, people were using caviar, escargot, and foie gras on their pasta. We said we want to do something radical – spaghetti with tomato. We want to break the rules. We don’t want to use caviar – our caviar is the tomato. Let’s put these poor ingredients center stage. And that’s what started the revolution, because it’s such a simple dish. But when you make it with the best pasta from our region, with the best olive oil and perhaps the best tomatoes in the world, it shows you can make a great dish with these three very humble ingredients. That’s the Don Alfonso revolution. “And from that we began to understand that we had a mission – to bring our story, our culture, our heritage onto the world stage. In the end, our poor ingredients are very rich.”

Ernesto 将身为厨师对厨房的热情与分析面结合（在满分为 110 分之下，他以 109 分从大学毕业），使他能够替家族共同的未来进行大胆创新的投资，即于 2007 年说服他们投资八百万欧元于经营酒店事业、建造地下停车场，这不仅扩增了版图，一切所作也都帮助他们持续吸引越来越多的顶级宾客。借着全球累积的专业知识，家族已经在加拿大多伦多和新西兰海伦娜湾度假村等地经营了八家餐厅。「时代需求不断在演变。以 Ernesto 说：前很多厨师都没有受过较高等的教育，但是现在我却需要会见来自中国的大亨和俄罗斯的政治界名人，像是和俄罗斯总统普京的律师同处一艘船，一起互动谈天。如果拥有一定程度的背景就会使自己更加风趣，还可以分享个人的计划和想法。我拥有正规的学历，也有『当奥丰素』的历练，它也是一座让全世界都来教导我的学院。」「我们能成功是因为不落窠臼。在 1980 年代，意大利最好的意式餐厅都在模仿法国，我们就问为什么。我们身在已有三千多年历史的南方地区，拥有自己独特的料理方式，有地中海料理，即地中海餐饮，我们有极好的食材与悠久的历史，所以我们就从此着手。」「我们与众不同的原因在于清爽的料理，我们只使用特级初榨橄榄油，豆类和意大利面都很清爽好消化。问题在于如何赋予餐点特色与风格并维持一致性，我们致力研发酱料制作的新方法，让料理具有特色与风格且依然使用健康的橄榄油。」「当奥丰素意大利粉这道菜式完美诠释我们的经营态度。在 80 年代，大家会在面点中加入鱼子酱、食用蜗牛和鹅肝。我们就想大胆尝试，用番茄意粉打破常规，不用鱼子酱，因为番茄就是我们的鱼子酱。让我们聚焦于这样普通的食材，这真的是道简单的料理，革新就此展开。然而，当使用了本地最好的面条、橄榄油和也许堪称是世上最好的番茄来料理时，就展示出其实可以只用这三种朴实的食材来制作美味的佳肴，这就是『当奥丰素』革命。」「从那时起，我们开始意识到自己身负使命，要将我们的故事、文化、遗产带到世界舞台上，最终让我们的普通食材尝起来丰盛美味。」 heart of italy

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WINES OF THE WORLD

TK | HEART OF ITALY

Sparkling with Style 酒杯藏珠

One of Italy’s great wines is finding new devotees around the world. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HAMMONS

WINES OF THE WORLD

WHEN TASTING FRANCIACORTA for the first

time, wine lovers often react with a mixture of surprise and delight: how could I not have known about something this good? Perhaps Italy’s bestkept secret, Franciacorta, like Champagne, is the name of both a sparkling wine and the region where it’s produced. While some liquid luxuries, like Cognac, are primarily exported from their country of production, nearly 88 percent of Franciacorta is consumed in Italy. And because many Italians consider it their quintessential national indulgence, to be enjoyed as an aperitif or during dinner, while sailing or after the opera, there simply isn’t enough Franciacorta to go around. Located in Lombardy an hour east of Milan in the foothills of the Alps, the Franciacorta region has been producing wines labeled DOC only since 1967 and DOCG since 1995. But, as the locals like to point out, Lombardy has been making delicious sparkling wines for centuries. In 1570, Gerolamo Conforti, a doctor from Brescia, published Libellus de vino mordaci , a treatise on fizzy wines. In the same century, the area’s well-heeled often stored wine in deep water during the winter months. The frigid temperatures would pause fermentation until the barrels were retrieved in spring and bubbles would start to form. Since serious sparkling wine production began anew in the ’60s, the focus in Franciacorta has been on higher quality, lengthened aging, and the development of sustainable practices, with more than 80 percent of planted acreage now organically farmed. Silvano Brescianini, president of the Franciacorta Consortium and vice president of the region’s first organic winery, Barone Pizzini, is a leading champion of biodiversity. “We need soil with vigorous life,” he says. “Worms, scorpions, every underground creature makes nutrition for the vines. We discovered in a five-year study with Milan University that the vineyards with the

Violinist Anca Vasile Caraman

头一回品饮 Franciacorta 时，爱酒人的反应往往是又惊又喜：「我怎麽从不知道有这麽棒的东西？」Franciacorta 兴许是意大利最深藏的秘密，就如香槟一样，它既是气泡酒的名字，也是产地的名字。有些奢华酒品，例如干邑，主要是作外销之用，但近 88% 的 Franciacorta 都是用以意大利内销。此外，因为这款酒既可作开胃酒或晚餐配酒，也可在出海航行过程或歌剧结束之后享用，许多意大利人认为这是专属于他们的享受，所以实在没有足够的 Franciacorta 可供出口。

Franciacorta 地区位于阿尔卑斯山脉米兰以东一小时车程的伦巴第， 1967 年才开始生产 DOC ( 法定产区 ) 葡萄酒，1995 年开始生产 DOCG ( 优质法定产区 ) 葡萄酒。不过，正如当地人常言道，伦巴第酿造美味气泡酒的历史已有数百年之久。

1570 年，一位来自布雷西亚的医生 Gerolamo Conforti 出版过一本关于。在那个世纪，当地富人常常趁着气泡酒的著作《Libellus de vino mordaci》冬季月份将葡萄酒储存在深水底下，寒冷的温度会使发酵暂停，等到春天将酒桶取出时，气泡才会纷纷冒出。自从六十年代开始重新生产气泡酒以来，Franciacorta 就很注重提高品质、延长陈酿时间以及发展永续农法，现在 80% 以上的种植面积都是采取有机种植。

Franciacorta 产区协会主席 Silvano Brescianini 大力倡导生物多样性，「我们需要他也是当地首座有机酒庄 —Barone Pizzini 酒庄的副总裁。他说：生机勃勃的土壤。虫子、蝎子、地底的每种生物，都为葡萄藤带来营养。我们与米兰大学合作进行过一项五年研究，结果发现葡萄出品最好的，是生物 heart of italy

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WINES OF THE WORLD

最多样的葡萄园。这不仅仅是有机与否的问题，你还得让葡萄藤奋力找出生路。如果你给它们浇水，它们会很懒，不会长出又壮又深的根。」

Franciacorta 面积相对较小的葡萄园散布在伊赛奥湖附近的山坡上。最东部的土壤是阿尔卑斯山冰川沉积的冰碛土，而其他地区则有铁质丰富的红黏土，这有助在炎炎夏日留住土壤水分。普洛塞克为了大规模生产与降低成本而采用大槽法酿酒，Franciacorta 则采取传统法

(metodo classic) ，在瓶中进行第二次发酵。绝大部分的 Franciacorta 都是独立酒庄酒，也就是说，葡萄是在其所种植采收的酒庄里进行酿造，这种做法有助鼓励农民长期投资葡萄栽培，并且增进他们对于最终产品的自豪感。

Franciacorta 有多种类别，包括采收后至少 37 个月才上市的年份气泡酒 millesi-

mato，以及在采收后至少 67 个月才上市的特别年份陈酿气泡酒 riserva。广受欢迎的

Satén 酿造工法用霞多丽或白皮诺葡萄，酿出经典的白中白 (blanc de blancs) 气泡酒。这些平易近人的葡萄酒口感柔滑，在意大利的时尚界和艺术界拥有大批追随者。

Franciacorta 地区共有 116 间酒庄，其中最大的是 Guido Berlucchi 酒庄，年产量超过 500 万瓶。1961 年，庄主 Berlucchi 与富有冒险精神的酿酒师 Franco Ziliani 携手酿出第一款现代的 Franciacorta，如今在家族巨大的酒窖一角，还陈列着一瓶当年出产的、深具历史意义的稀有年份酒。 Bellavista served at La Scala 在斯卡拉歌剧院供应的Bellavista气泡酒

Ca’ Del Bosco 酒庄及其主人 Maurizio Zanella 对品质的狂热追求，造就不少 Franciacorta 最受好评的酒款。Maurizio 的母亲在六十年代种下酒庄的第一批葡萄，如今她的爱子成了当地魅力十足的宣传大使。身为狂

best grapes are those with the best biodiversity. And it isn’t merely about being organic – you also need to make the vines fight to survive. If you bring water to them, they’ll be lazy and won’t develop strong, deep roots.” The vineyards of the relatively small region of Franciacorta are scattered across the hilly slopes near Lake Iseo. The easternmost terroir comprises morainic soils deposited by Alpine glaciers, while other areas have more iron and red clay, which help to retain moisture even during hot summers. In contrast to Prosecco, which uses the tank method for larger and less costly production, Franciacorta is made according to the metodo classico , with a second fermentation in the bottle. And the vast majority of Franciacorta is grower’s wine, which means that

TK | heart of italy

热的艺术收藏家，他把自己的酒庄和庭院变成美术馆，陈列引人注目的雕塑及其他现代作品。

Bellavista 酒庄是另一座享誉全球的酒庄，也在不断挑战品质的极限。他们是艺术的大力支持者，每逢新的年份酒上市之时，他们都会从中选出一批，装入从威尼斯穆拉诺岛特别订製的酒瓶，在米兰斯卡拉歌剧院的歌剧季期间供应。

Bellavista 意为「美丽景色」，指的是从酒庄之上俯瞰的壮丽景色，不过这个词恰恰也可用来形容整个 Franciacorta 地区，这里的每个转角都美不胜收，只有发现璀璨的隐藏宝石时的那种喜悦才能与之匹敌。

Operatic soprano Elisabetta Zizzo at the Berlucchi Palace 歌剧女高音Elisabetta Zizzo 在Berlucchi Palace美术馆

HEART OF ITALY | TK |

WINES OF THE WORLD

Ca’ del Bosco owner Maurizio Zanella

J. C. Viens, Franciacorta Greater China ambassador Franciacorta大中华地区大使 J. C. Viens

TK | heart of italy

grapes are grown and harvested on the estate where they’re vinified, a practice that encourages long-term investment in viniculture and a greater sense of pride in the final product. Franciacorta styles include vintage wines called millesimato , released at least thirtyseven months after the harvest, and riserva wines, blends of exceptional vintages that are released at least sixty-seven months after harvest. The popular Satén vinification process yields a classic blanc de blancs style made from chardonnay or pinot bianco grapes. These approachable wines with a soft and silky mouthfeel have a strong following among Italy’s fashion and arts communities. There are 116 producers in Franciacorta, including the largest, Guido Berlucchi, with annual production of more than five million bottles. Berlucchi, along with an adventurous winemaker named Franco Ziliani, produced the first modern Franciacorta in 1961, and a rare bottle of the historic vintage is on display in a corner of the family’s vast cellars. The fanatical devotion to quality of Ca’ del Bosco and its owner, Maurizio Zanella, has produced some of Franciacorta’s most critically acclaimed wines. Zanella, whose mother planted the estate’s first vines in the 1960s, has become a charismatic ambassador for the region. An avid art collector, he has turned his winery and grounds into a gallery of striking sculptures and other modern works. Another globally respected producer, Bellavista, is constantly pushing the boundaries of quality. As a major supporter of the arts, it selects a portion of each new vintage to be released in bespoke bottles made in Murano, Venice, and served during opera season at Milan’s La Scala. Bellavista, “beautiful view,” refers to the magnificent prospect from atop the estate, but the word could just as aptly refer to the Franciacorta region as a whole – beauty around every turn, matched only by the delight of discovering a sparkling hidden gem.

HEART OF ITALY | TK |

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PRESENTED BY MGM COTAI

味觉「秘」境

NIKKEI THEIR WAY At Aji, two master chefs share their personalized style of Peru’s most famous cuisine.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Mitsuharu Tsumura and Edwin Guzman Navarro

“NIKKEI IS PERUVIAN CUISINE,” says Mitsuharu Tsumura, chef-partner of Aji, the heralded Peruvian Nikkei restaurant at MGM Cotai. He is careful to emphasize that Nikkei is neither a showcase for Peruvian cuisine with Japanese influence nor for Japanese cuisine that happens to use Peruvian ingredients. Rather, it’s a blending of two traditions into a style that is uniquely its own. “Of course there’s influence from Japan,” he adds. “But we also have Chinese-Peruvian cuisine called Chifa and Creole cuisine and Italian-Peruvian cuisine. Our food is a melting pot of many cultures – Peruvian, Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, African, Italian. Nearly every kitchen in Peru, from Lima to the Andes to the Amazon, has a bottle of soy sauce, and it isn’t imported from China or Japan – we have our own brands. We also have our own versions of pesto and minestrone. We take the best from other countries and make it ours in our own way.” A prime example of Peru’s culinary syncretism is ceviche, the Japanese-influenced national dish in which the raw fish was traditionally cured in lime juice for hours and, in early incarnations of Nikkei, flavored with a healthy dash of soy sauce. Today, ceviche further reflects the Japanese approach in its respect for pristine seafood: fish is cut, marinated, and served immediately. “Now we can appreciate the freshness of the fish along with the Peruvian flavors,” says Edwin Guzman Navarro, Aji’s chef de cuisine. “Japanese influence taught us how to use our own products in a better way.” Aji’s signature nigiri is another Nikkei dish close to the HEART OF ITALY | TK |

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hearts of both Guzman and his mentor, Tsumura. The vinegared rice base is the very one used at Maido, Tsumura’s renowned Lima restaurant that currently ranks number ten on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and number one on the list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. In fact, it’s the same recipe Tsumura learned while training at a sushi restaurant in Osaka. A slice of tuna, the fatty otoro , is carved with precision, pressed delicately onto the rice, topped with a sauce of sweet-and-sour mustard seed and torikara , and garnished with minced white onion. “It looks very Japanese,” says Guzman, “but you’ll never find soy sauce or wasabi on the table. Everything is already on top. And when you eat it, you’ll feel an explosion of flavors – that’s Peruvian Nikkei nigiri, and that’s Peruvian Nikkei cuisine.” Adds Tsumura, “I like to put it this way: Peruvian cuisine is like hard rock, with its spicy, citrusy, and strong flavors coming from all the chilies, lime, cilantro, onions, and garlic. Japanese cuisine is like classical music, subtler in flavor and more focused on the products and the techniques. Each is its own amazing genre, but Nikkei combines the two, toning things down to bring balance while also enhancing the overall effect.” Tsumura and Guzman present a distinctly contemporary style of Nikkei cuisine in their own way, personalizing their interpretations according to what each has seen and experienced. Special emphasis is placed on sourcing highquality ingredients and presenting them in creative ways that spark curiosity, provoke thought, and elicit wonder. Tsumura’s iconic wagyu with quail egg nigiri, originally developed for Maido but also offered at Aji, is a playful take on the Peruvian dish churrasco a lo pobre , or poor man’s steak, and features torched wagyu topped with a quail egg yolk injected with ponzu. In dishes like his king crab capchi , Guzman draws on the regional flavors of his childhood home in the Andes to introduce ingredients like capchi cheese sauce and huacatay black mint to the world of Nikkei. “I like to surprise people with something that looks really local and tastes unexpected,” he says. Since coming to Macau to open Aji, Guzman has found inspiration in the region’s distinctive products, developing his Peruvian take on mapo tofu and a bar snack that features Chinese lotus root spiced with flavors from the Peruvian Amazon. “When you have a Nikkei restaurant outside of Peru, the fun part is discovering new ingredients that you can use to enhance your cuisine,” he says. “What we’re doing creatively makes us unique,” says Tsumura. “But the flavors you discover at Maido and Aji are the same – close your eyes and you’re in Peru.”

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美狮美高梅广受称誉的秘鲁餐厅「雅吉」的合作主厨津村光晴表示：「秘鲁日式菜『是』秘鲁料理。」他同时细心地强调，秘鲁日式料理既不是要展现出受日式料理影响的秘鲁菜，也不是使用秘鲁食材的日本料理，而是将两种传统融合为独树一帜的风格。津村接着解释：「秘鲁日式菜当然多少受日本的影响，但是我们也有中式秘鲁美食、克里奥尔风味美食和意式秘鲁料理，我们的饮食是多种文化大熔炉，涵盖了秘鲁、西班牙、中国、日本、非洲和意大利的元素。从利马，到安第斯山脉，再到亚马逊，在秘鲁几乎每个厨房都有一瓶酱油，不是从中国或日本进口的，而是我们的自有品牌，我们也有自己版本的罗勒青酱和意式蔬菜汤，从其他国家汲取精华后以我们的方式使其成为自己的料理。」典型之例就是秘鲁国民佳肴─秘制刺身，传统上是将生鱼片用青柠汁腌制数小时，但在秘鲁日式料理发展初期，适量的酱油为腌鱼生增添了更多风味。如今，秘鲁刺身进一步体现了日本对食材的重视：鱼肉切过、腌制后就立即上桌。「雅吉」主厨 Edwin Guzman Navarro 说：「现在，我们可以同时品尝到鱼肉鲜味与秘鲁风味。日本的精神教会我们如何更加善用食材。」

PATA CO N E S W I T H A J I S O U R PA I R I N G 炸芭蕉、秘鲁干辣椒、豆腐及鹌鹑蛋酿柑橘酱油，搭配 AJI SOUR

“Every year that goes by, we at Maido and Aji continue to tear down barriers and open our minds to our creative world,” says Tsumura. “Do we have to restrict ourselves to Japanese and Peruvian influences? Japan took a lot from Chinese food and adapted it to their cuisine. Why can’t we do the same?” Guzman starts with Peruvian Amazonian patacones , or twicefried plantains, and shapes them into tarts filled with Chineseinspired mapo tofu made with Peruvian ingredients like panca chilies and mint. He pairs the snack with the restaurant’s signature Aji sour cocktail, which has all the sweet-tart silky frothiness of the classic Peruvian pisco sour, with an added spicy kick from the aji-infused pisco.

津村说：「我们过去在『Maido』和『雅吉』一直在突破局限、敞开心胸，塑造我们的创意世界。我们是否有必要将自己设限于秘鲁和日本的影响？日本运用很多中式食物并融入他们的料理中，我们何不依样画葫芦？」

Edwin 因此着手制作秘鲁亚马逊风味的双炸芭蕉，将之塑型成塔皮，填入以黑辣椒和薄荷等秘鲁食材制成的中式麻婆豆腐，搭配餐厅的招牌 Aji Sour 鸡尾酒，体验经典秘鲁皮斯科酸酒的所有酸甜口感和丝滑泡沫，以及辣皮斯科酒的辛味。

LO B S T E R C E V I C H E 腌蓝龙虾、青豆、番薯、干葱及炸粟米

「雅吉」著名的手握寿司是另一道 Edwin 及他的导师津村都非常重视的秘鲁日式料理。津村在利马的知名餐厅「Maido」目前在「世界五十大最佳餐厅」中名列第十，在「拉丁美洲五十大最佳餐厅」中名列第一，而「雅吉」手握寿司的醋饭基底和「Maido」所用的一样。事实上，这是他在大阪一家寿司店训练时学到的醋饭食谱。一片吞拿鱼腩，即三角鱼身油花，精巧地覆于米饭上，再淋上酸甜芥末籽炸鸡酱，并以白洋葱花点缀。「它看起来非常日式， Edwin 说：但是桌上绝不会有酱油或芥末。这道料理包含所有的滋味。食客品尝时味道会在口中迸发，这就是秘鲁手握寿司，也是秘鲁日式料理。」津村补充道：「我喜欢这么去形容：秘鲁料理像是重摇滚音乐，糅合辣椒、青柠、香菜、洋葱和大蒜，包含辛辣、酸味和浓烈风味，而日本料理犹如古典音乐一样，味道较轻柔，却注重食材与手法。这两派各有各的美妙特色，但秘鲁日式料理将两者结合在一起，缓和了味道，但亦提升了整体效果。」津村和 Edwin 以各自的方式充分展现现代秘鲁料理的精髓，并凭借自身的见识与经验表现出个人风格。他们亦会特别找寻高品质的食材，以充满创意的摆盘展示食材，从而激发食客的好奇心，让他们发挥想像并探究食材的故事。最经典的例子就是津村的手握寿如今在「雅司，当初为「Maido」而研发，吉」也有供应。炙烧和牛与酿有柑橘酱油的鹌鹑蛋黄手握寿司，就是以秘鲁菜

─穷人牛排为原型，做出新花样。在秘鲁薯仔多士、芝士及秘鲁香草配豉油啫喱中，Edwin 引入了儿时居住在安第斯山脉的地方风味，将炖蚕豆芝士酱和黑薄荷等带入秘鲁料理界。他介绍：「我喜欢用看起来很地道，但口感出乎意料的食材来惊艳大家。」自从来到澳门开创「雅吉」后，他开始从澳门本地食材寻找灵感，包括研发一道下酒小吃

─ 秘鲁亚马逊风味的中国莲藕，和另一道融合秘鲁式麻婆豆腐的餐点。他说：「在秘鲁以外经营秘鲁日式餐厅时的趣味在于可以发掘新食材来精进料理。」津村则总结说：「创作使我们与众不同，但是您在『Maido』或『雅吉』中所品尝的味道却是如出一辙，只要闭上眼睛，你就身在秘鲁。」

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“Ceviche is a very important dish in Peru, and it’s a good example of Nikkei cuisine,” says Guzman. “ The Japanese influence taught us their technique of cutting fish and their respect for the product. Now we can appreciate the freshness of the fish along with the Peruvian flavors.”

「秘制刺身在秘鲁 Edwin 说：

Every Peruvian chef has a personal recipe for this national dish. Guzman caters to the Asian palate with a fresh and flavorful variation that isn’t too strong or spicy. Pleasantly tart leche de tigre ceviche sauce and ponzu jelly balance the blanched blue lobster and green-pea purée, and deep-fried chullpi corn, sweet corn, and edamame add texture.

每位秘鲁厨师都有这道国民

是道举足轻重的料理，也是秘鲁日式料理口味的最佳代表。受日本的影响，他们教会我们切鱼的工法以及对食材的尊重，现在我们可以同时享受到鱼肉的鲜甜和秘鲁的风味。」

佳肴的个人食谱， Edwin 为迎合亚洲口味，创作了新鲜味美的版本，不会过于浓烈或辛辣。酸度宜人的「虎之奶」腌汁和柑橘豉油啫喱平衡了蓝龙虾和绿豌豆泥的味道，而脆炸玉米、甜玉米和毛豆则增添了口感层次。

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K I N G C R A B C A P C H I W I T H N I K K E I S O U R PA I R I N G

秘鲁薯仔多士、芝士及秘鲁香草配豉油啫喱，搭配 NIKKEI SOUR

“Everything I know related to Nikkei cuisine, I learned from Tsumura,” says Guzman. “Now I like to interpret my dishes with Nikkei components while also adding a part of myself. I am Peruvian, with family roots in the Andes, so I can use some really, really Peruvian components.”

「我认知的关于秘鲁日式料理的一切， Edwin 说：都是从津村学到的。现在，我想以日式秘鲁料理元素来诠释我的菜式，并加点个人风格。我是百分之百的秘鲁人，来自安第斯山脉，让我可以顺应所知运用一些极其纯正的秘鲁元素。」

The chef takes inspiration from a simple traditional Andean dish of potatoes and capchi , a sauce made from cheese, black mint, and chilies. He makes a one-bite version with brioche made from olluco potato and stuffed with capchi and king crab meat. He adds Nikkei flavors in the form of edamame beans and a clear soy-sauce gel. The Nikkei sour cocktail pairing also adds a hint of Japanese influence to the classic Peruvian pisco sour by replacing the lime juice with yuzu.

主厨从简单传统的安第斯山脉料理 ─ 薯仔配芝士黑薄荷辣椒酱中得到灵感，用薯仔泥制作出一口大小的布莉欧，以芝士黑薄荷辣椒酱和皇帝蟹为内馅，再以毛豆和透明酱油啫喱加添日式秘鲁风味。搭配的 Nikkei Sour 用柚子取代青柠汁，让经典的秘鲁皮斯科酸酒带有日式风味。 heart of italy

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Olluco

Leona Sangre de toro

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Olluco rojo

Qeqorani

Papa amarilla

Kuchipelo

Camotillo

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鸭肝慕士配黄姜、黄辣椒配苹果蓉，搭配 AJI-HA

“I believe we can send a variety of messages with food,” says Guzman. “I’m inspired by people like Edilberto Soto Tenorio, the potato farmer, who care so much about local Peruvian produce, and I want to show that people in Macau and Mainland China can feel proud of their local products as well.” Guzman creates a crunchy cracker inspired by the shape of an Asian lotus root. He fills the holes with foie gras and yellow chili–apple sauce and finishes it with a dusting of beetroot and gold powders. The cracker is accompanied by an intriguing cocktail of sake and wine garnished with lychee foam.

「我相信我们可以透过食物 Edwin 说：来传递各种信息。我就是受到如薯仔农夫 Edilberto Soto Tenorio 等人的启发，他们非常重视秘鲁当地的农产品，而我认为中国内地和澳门居民也同样为他们的当地农产感到自豪。」

Edwin 以莲藕为灵感，制作莲藕片状的脆饼，孔洞中填入鹅肝和苹果黄辣椒蓉，最后撒上甜菜根粉和金粉。搭配以清酒和白酒调制、带有荔枝泡沫的 Aji-Ha 特色鸡尾酒。

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WA GY U T I R A D I TO 薄切和牛

“Every place has beauty in its local ingredients,” says Tsumura. “I believe c h efs s h ou l d al ways ex p l ore t h e i r surroundings to understand the culture and find the best products to enhance their cuisine.” Guzman incorporates the local flavors of XO sauce, one of his favorite discoveries in Macau, in his tiradito of thinly sliced Japanese wagyu with a ponzu emulsion of chullpi corn and maca root.

津村说：「每个地方的当地食材皆具有独特美味。我认为身为厨师应该经常探索周围环境，深入本土文化并找出最佳食材来精进料理风格。」

Edwin 在澳门发掘到的最爱美味是 XO 酱，他特别将其融入薄切和牛中，配以乳状柚子醋粟米及马卡。

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P E R U V I A N N I K K E I N I G I R I : O - TO R O A N D WA GY U W I T H Q U A I L EG G 秘鲁手握寿司 : 吞拿鱼腩及炙烤和牛，鹌鹑蛋酿柑橘酱油

“There is tradition and there is creativity,” says Tsumura. “At Maido and Aji, we inspire ourselves with tradition and then present Nikkei cuisine from our own creative world.” Famous for his playful interpretations of Peruvian and Nikkei traditions, Tsumura constructs his nigiri with Japanese precision and packs it with bold Peruvian flavors. On the right, Tsumura’s take on the Peruvian dish churrasco a lo pobre, or poor man’s steak, featuring torched wagyu topped with a quail egg yolk injected with ponzu. On the left, Guzman’s exploration of caviar, featuring it cured with Peruvian salt and sugar and grated over a slice of tuna. 津村说：「这两款寿司兼容传统与创意。在『Maido』和『雅吉』，我们从传统汲取灵感，再加入新创意来呈现秘鲁日式料理。」津村以其对秘鲁和日式秘鲁传统的诠释玩味而闻名，制作的握寿司展现出秘鲁的大胆风味和日式的精准。右边的炙烧和牛的灵感来自秘鲁菜中的穷人牛排，上头摆着酿有柑橘酱油的鹌鹑蛋黄。左边是 Edwin 对鱼子酱的新演绎，鱼子酱以秘鲁的盐和糖腌制后经研磨，放在呑拿鱼腩寿司上。

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AJI EXPERIENCE SNACKS: P R AW N O CO PA A N D PA PA R E L L E N A 「雅吉」体验小吃 : 虾头及虾肉配黑薄荷酱与炸薯蓉牛肉丸 “Peru is a country of potatoes – there are more than four thousand varieties,” says Guzman. “We’re so happy to work with Edilberto Soto Tenorio, a farmer who’s really passionate about growing potatoes and sends us many kinds with different textures and flavors.” The snacks that start the Aji Experience tasting menu showcase two popular Peruvian potato dishes, each with an original twist. On the left, Guzman stuffs ocopa sauce into deep-fried river prawn heads. The sauce is made of chili, peanuts, and a black mint called huacatay and is typically served over boiled potatoes. The chef also finds inspiration in childhood memories of buying stuffed potatoes, or papas rellenas , outside school. On the right, he replaces the usual ground beef with tender short rib.

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「秘鲁是薯仔大国， Edwin 说：拥有四千多个品种。我们很高兴能与热衷于薯仔栽种的农夫 Edilberto Soto Tenorio 合作，他为我们提供多种口感与风味相异的薯仔。」「雅吉」体验菜单以小吃揭开序幕，呈现两道广受欢迎的秘鲁薯仔料理，各有其独特风味。Edwin 在左边的酥炸溪虾头填入由辣椒、花生和名为 huacatay 的由黑薄荷制成、通常淋于熟薯仔之上的黑薄荷酱。他还从儿时于校外买炸薯蓉牛肉丸的回忆中发现灵感，创作出右边以嫩肋排取代一般碎牛肉的炸牛肉丸。

R O COTO 秘鲁辣椒甜品、椰子及肉桂泡沫、花生雪糕配巧克力坚果碎

“Arequipa, with its many famous dishes, is considered one of Peru’s most important culinary centers,” says Guzman. “It’s a good place for inspiration, and whenever I go back to Peru, I always need to visit.” The idea behind this dessert comes from Arequipa’s famous appleshaped rocoto chili, which is often served stuffed with beef and cheese. Guzman shapes a sweet “rocoto” from caramel and fills it with salty peanut ice cream, crunchy quinoa, and chocolate, in addition to the cinnamon, clove, coconut, and milk flavors of the Arequipa frozen dessert queso helado. 「阿雷基帕被视为秘鲁的美食重镇之 Edwin 说：一，可以找到众多知名佳肴，是启发灵感的好地方，所以每当我回到秘鲁，总是会造访阿雷基帕。」这款甜点的创意来自阿雷基帕著名的苹果型罗可托辣椒，通常搭配牛肉和芝士。

Edwin 用焦糖塑造出甜美的罗可托辣椒，并填入花生雪糕、肉桂、丁香、椰子和牛奶口味的阿雷基帕冷冻芝士。

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Eel 鳗鱼

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Nicolas Boutin

「法」现纯粹

naturally different In fresh new ways, one of Hong Kong’s most gifted chefs celebrates the bounty of earth and sea.

「Épure」的行政总厨 Nicolas Boutin 说：「大家都会为我们如何善用洋葱而感到惊奇。」自 2014 年开幕 Nicolas Boutin, executive chef of Épure. Since its opening in 2014, 以来，这家米其林星级餐厅始终以精心雕琢、赞扬 the Michelin-starred restaurant has been delighting Hong Kong 大自然美作的当代法国料理来满足一众香港饕客。 diners with finely crafted contemporary French food that celebrates nature’s finest creations. Nicolas 喜欢谈论「风土」― 塑造所有天然食材的多种环境因素：「它使成果更加出众， Boutin loves to talk about terroir, the multifarious BY 料理成败的一半就取决于它。」他在创 environmental factors that shape all natural ingredients. DOROTHY SO 意洋葱料理中大胆搭配奢华黑松露，而 “That’s what makes a product very good,” he says. “It’s • 朴拙的洋葱则集结了口味、质感和多样 50 percent of any cuisine.” In his innovative onion dish,

“PEOPLE ARE AMAZED by what we can do with one onion,” says

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 性。Nicolas 提到法国中南部塞文山脉的 an audacious pairing with sumptuous black truffle, it’s DAVID HARTUNG 土地，当地以生产独一无二、甜度细致 the humble allium that basks in the spotlight in terms of 的白洋葱而闻名。整颗洋葱在粗盐上烘 taste, texture, and versatility. Boutin turned to the soil 烤以诱出其自然风味，再去皮切半，接着于层层叠 of Cévennes, a region in south-central France known for producing 叠的半透明洋葱之间，涂抹以橄榄油、埃斯佩莱特 white onions of unrivaled delicate sweetness. The onion is baked 辣椒和现切松露片混合的酱料，最后将其锅煎并烤 whole on coarse salt to coax out its natural flavors. Then it is peeled 「我们还把这款蔬菜制作成焦糖洋葱。Nicolas 说： and halved, and a mixture of olive oil, Espelette chili, and freshly ，和经成不同口感 ― 撒有焦糖洋葱粉的『洋葱奶油』 sliced truffle is slathered between each near-translucent layer. 典松露汁来提升洋葱的多层次口感。」 Finally, it’s pan-fried and roasted for a caramelized finish. When 今年秋天，Nicolas 还为他的招牌菜单引入一 the dish is served, says Boutin, “We have another texture of the 道新的鱼子酱餐点，这道菜的灵感来自于「Épure」 vegetable – the cream of onions – and on top is caramelized-onion heart of italy

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Caviar 鱼子酱

powder. There’s also a classic truffle jus to enhance the onion’s complexities.” This fall, Boutin has also introduced a new caviar course to his Signature Tasting Menu. The dish was inspired by a collaborative dinner between Épure and France’s three-Michelin-star La Maison Troisgros, where Boutin previously worked. “There we made an oyster with a kind of smoked yogurt,” he says. His Épure team kept the idea but replaced the oyster with caviar for a luxury appetizer that can be served year-round. The smoked yogurt on the base is topped with a refreshing cucumber gelée. Then comes a layer of caviar along with lime pearls and a potent touch of wasabi. The dish is served with a side of rectangular blinis, tender on the inside and crispy on the outside, that are quickly seared before they come to the table. “To keep to the theme of French cuisine and French ingredients,” says Boutin, “we use organic chestnut flour from the south of France. It gives an interesting taste that fits very well with both the caviar and the cucumber.” As a French chef, Boutin champions the best produce from his home country, but the food at Épure is also influenced by ingredients from far and wide, like the miso in one of his desserts. The Japanese fermented bean paste lends a peanut-like saltiness to a rich mousse made from Valrhona

TK | heart of italy

和法国米其林三星餐厅「La Maison Troisgros」的联袂晚宴。「那次 Nicolas 曾在「La Maison Troisgros」工作过。他回忆说：联袂晚宴，我们用了烟熏酸奶料理牡蛎。」他的「Épure」团队保留了这个主意，但将牡蛎换成了鱼子酱，制作出可以全年供应的豪华开胃菜。烟熏酸奶基底配上清爽的黄瓜凝冻，再覆上鱼子酱青柠和浓郁的芥末，这道料理盛盘时搭配外酥内软的长「为了保方形薄饼，上桌前还会迅速地炙烧一下。Nicolas 说：持法式美食与食材的一贯主题，我们采用法国南部的有机栗子粉，带出一抹非常适合搭配鱼子酱和黄瓜的有趣味道。」身为法国主厨的 Nicolas 拥护自己家乡最好的农产品，但「Épure」的餐点同时也受到来自世界各地食材的影响，例如他为其中一道甜点选用的味噌。发酵的日本豆酱为香浓的法芙娜吉瓦那 40 ％牛奶巧克力慕丝增添了花生般的咸味，置于法式薄饼的中央，以新鲜碎柚皮点缀，配上一杓焦糖雪糕，并撒上一圈果仁糖粉。

Nicolas 的鳗鱼料理搭配着象征秋意的新鲜无花果、鸡油菌菇和甜菜根粉。他介绍：「鳗鱼绝对不是一开始就在我们菜单中出现的菜式，因为我认为大家会觉得它太日式，但人如四季，终究会改变，于是某天我就提议应该来尝试一下。」他们「当宾客点以日式刀法将鳗鱼切成薄片并蒸熟。Nicolas 补充：餐后，我们会将鱼片炙烧五到十分钟，直到表皮变得非常酥脆，在盛盘之前会加一点猪油膏，使其更加浓郁。」盘子上还有一「我喜欢我们所说的『海陆』融合，样不寻常的配料─公鸡鸡冠。分别来自土地与海洋的食材真是天生一对。现今没有多少人这么做，而我选择反其道而行，就是为了与众不同。」

PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

Jivara 40% Milk Chocolate. It sits in the center of a crisp crêpe dentelle adorned with flecks of pomelo zest and served with a quenelle of caramel ice cream atop a round of praline powder. Boutin’s dish of locally sourced eel is served with an autumnal touch of fresh figs, chanterelle mushrooms, and powdered beetroot. “Eel was definitely not a fish we had on the menu in the beginning,” he says, “because I thought people would consider it too Japanese. But, like the seasons, people change, so one day I said we should give it a try.” Filleted the Japanese way, the eel is cut into very thin slices and steamed. “When we have an order, we sear it for five to ten minutes until the skin gets very crispy. Then just before we put it on the plate, we add a bit of lardo on top, which brings a bit of richness.” Also on the plate is a somewhat unusual accompaniment – a rooster’s coxcomb. “I like this mix of what we call terre et mer , something from the soil and something from the sea. It really fits together. Not many people do this now, which is why I want to do it. I always try to be different.”

Jivara Chocolate 法国牛奶朱古力

Cévennes onion, black truffle 法国超甜洋葱，黑松露

Braised Shanghainese rice cake in Grana Padano PDO sauce with Prosciutto di Parma PDO 奶酪西班牙火腿烩上海年糕

TK | HEART OF ITALY

美味认证

WELL-PROTECTED FLAVORS A Michelin-starred restaurant’s head chef enlivens a Chinese classic with two of Europe’s treasured ingredients.

SZE MAN SUI, head chef of acclaimed yè shanghai Kowloon, begins the preparation of his unique variation on Shanghainese rice cake by meticulously shaving several paper-thin slices of ham with a razor-sharp knife. But instead of the Jinhua ham commonly used in Shanghainese cuisine, it is Italy’s renowned Prosciutto di Parma PDO, stamped with the official Ducal Crown. Short for Protected Designation of Origin, PDO is the BY European Union certification system designed to protect VIVIAN MAK the names and traditions of ultra-premium foods made • according to traditional methods in defined geographic PHOTOGRAPHY BY regions. Every producer of Prosciutto di Parma PDO, for DAVID HARTUNG example, must observe strict regulations approved by the EU with regard to the processing and aging of its hams. For his special dish, Chef Sze has also selected Grana Padano PDO, the famed Italian cheese made according to a long-standing traditional recipe. Fire-branded on the rind, it is marked with the distinctive design of a four-leaf clover and dotted lozenges to prove its authenticity. “I find this cheese deliciously salty, rich, and mellow,” says Sze. “It’s a perfect complement to the subtle flavor of the rice cake. “Rice cake is so popular, with its satisfying, chewy texture similar to al dente pasta. In this dish, the most important points are mastering the heat level when melting and blending the cheese with the fresh cream and gently simmering the rice cake in the sauce to make sure that each piece is completely enrobed.” After his first success, says Sze, he looks forward to creating other dishes that blend Eastern and Western ingredients in imaginative new ways. “I wasn’t always familiar with PDO, but now I know that it’s the ultimate guarantee of quality.”

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BRAISED SHANGHAINESE RICE CAKE IN GRANA PADANO PDO SAUCE WITH PROSCIUT TO DI PARMA PDO 奶酪西班牙火腿烩上海年糕年糕 200克上海年糕 1. 将年糕切成薄片后浸水30分钟 2. 取出切片并晾干后油炸至金黄色

酱汁 100克 PDO 格拉娜帕达诺奶酪 100克鲜奶油低温加热奶油后混入奶酪直至融化

配料 20克 PDO 帕尔玛火腿 5克新鲜青豆盐和胡椒 1. 以 200°C 烘烤火腿三分钟后切片 2. 煮熟青豆

组合 1. 将年糕片浸于酱汁中煨煮三分钟，直至每片都覆上酱汁 2. 加入少许盐和胡椒调味 3. 放上火腿和青豆

RICE CAKE 200 g Shanghainese rice cake

1. Slice rice cake and soak in water for 30 minutes. 2. Dry slices and fry in hot oil until golden.

SAUCE 100 g Grana Padano PDO 100 g fresh cream

Heat cream on low and blend in cheese until melted.

TOPPINGS 20g Prosciutto di Parma PDO 5g fresh sweet peas Salt and pepper

1. Bake ham for 3 minutes at 200°C and chop. 2. Boil peas.

ASSEMBLY 1. Simmer rice cake slices in sauce for 3 minutes until each one is completely covered. 2. Season lightly with salt and pepper. 3. Top with ham and peas.

TK | heart of italy

在盛名远播的九龙「夜上海」，厨师长施万岁用利刃削出薄如纸片的火腿，为特制上海年糕做准备。他舍弃上海菜中常见的金华火腿，选用了印有官方认证、帕尔马王冠标签的知名意大利 PDO 帕尔玛火腿。「原产地保护区认证」简称 PDO，是欧盟的认证体系，旨在特定地理区域内，保护依照传统作法制造的优质食品的名声和传统。例如，每个意大利 PDO 帕尔玛火腿生产商都必须遵守欧盟批准之火腿加工和熟成的严格规定。另外，施师傅在他的特色料理中选用 PDO 格拉娜帕达诺奶酪，这是种依循古老传统食谱制作的知名意大利奶酪，外皮上烙印着四叶草标签和点状菱形的独特设计，这是真品的证明。施师傅说：「我发现这种奶酪美味咸香、浓郁醇厚，与年糕的微妙风味相得益彰。」「年糕因为它嚼劲十足的弹牙口感而深受欢迎，就像在吃意大利面。这道菜的重点，在于融化奶酪并混合新鲜奶油时，必须掌控好热度，再以酱汁煨煮年糕，确保每一片年糕都入味。」继这道料理的成功，施师傅期待未来再以创意手法打造更多融合东西方食材的新料理。他说：「之前对 PDO 不是很熟悉，但现在我确信它就是品质的终极保证。」

The content of this advertisement represents the views of the author only and is his sole responsibility. The European Commission does not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION

Paul Salnikow

PRESENTED BY THE EXECUTIVE CENTRE

如家

family ties The Executive Centre and Kinship share a philosophy of bringing people together.

FORT Y FLOORS ABOVE HONG KONG, vertiginous views of the city’s throbbing financial heart provide an appropriately dynamic backdrop for one of the flagship venues of The Executive Centre, Asia’s premium flexible-workspace provider. The warm interior hums with energy as a wide spectrum of businesspeople BY en joy its approachable CHRIS DWYER design and state-of-the• art facilities. PHOTOGRAPHY BY The man behind this DAVID HARTUNG striking spot, and more than one hundred thirty like it in thirty-two cities across Asia Pacific and the Middle East, is Paul Salnikow, the company’s founder and CEO. Over the past quarter century, he has built the privately held concern into the thirdlargest serviced-office business in Asia. “It’s been an interesting journey of transition and transformation,” he says, “and what’s kept me going is that the product has evolved over time and really come into its own.” The idea of flexible office accommodations has grown in line with the boom in Asia’s economies. Whether in Yokohama or Manila, Melbourne or Taipei, the concept of “your network is your family” remains at the heart of TEC. “When our Members walk through our doors,” says Salnikow, “it becomes their office, their ecosystem, their universe. Our people need to view each one of them as acquaintances, friends, and to know them by name. We train, coach, and mentor, and it builds loyalty and passion into the business.” A sense of hospitality is also a part of TEC’s

Lemongrass Creme Brûlée 烤布蕾 heart of italy

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Chris Grare, Paul Salnikow and Arron Rhodes

The Pastrami Beef Tataki 五香熏牛肉

亚洲高端共享办公空间，德事商务中心，提供灵活性高的商务环境。香港的其中一间中心位于中环一栋著名商业大厦的四十多层，窗外皆是金融中心的繁荣美景，呈上独一无二的生动背景。温馨的装潢生气蓬勃，让各界商务人士尽情沉浸于前卫设施及怡人的设计风格之中。创办人兼行政总裁 Paul Salnikow 是德事商务中心的灵魂人物，其中心在亚太和中东地区的三十二个城市，提供超过一百三十个商务点。在过去二十五年里，他将这家私人企业打造成为亚洲第三大共享办公室的事业体。他笑说：「这是段有趣的过渡和转型之旅。随着时间的推移，德事商务中心逐步发展到拥有它的自我特色。这就是我前进的动力。」共享办公空间的概念随着亚洲经济的蓬勃发展而增长。无论在横滨、马尼拉、墨尔本或是台北，「人脉即家庭」的概念始终是德事商「当我们的客户务中心的核心精神。Paul 说：走进中心大门，整个空间就成了他们的办公室、生态圈和宇宙世界。我们的员工将他们每位都视为熟人、朋友，并熟知他们的名字。我们提供训练、指导和协助，就是为了在企业中建立

family ethos. Salnikow’s wife, Susan, has regularly stepped in to help provide tempting and healthy lunch choices for staff. And to mark their twenty-fifth anniversary, a special dinner will feature food from Kinship, one of Hong Kong’s newest and most welcoming restaurants. Occupying a prime location in Central, Kinship is inspired by the simple premise of “family first.” Its farm-to-table concept emphasizes sustainable relationships with family-run local farms and suppliers, and its elegant-yet-relaxed ambience fosters good times around good food and good wine. For the TEC dinner, Chris Grare and Arron Rhodes, co-owners and chefs, have crafted two four-course menus that celebrate Asian ingredients and influences allied with touches reflecting their respective American and British backgrounds. Surprises await in dishes that are also offered at Kinship. “Our pastrami beef tataki uses our secret rub with cumin, coriander, cinnamon, black peppercorns, mustard seeds, and more,” says Grare. “We smoke the beef, sear it, and serve it with crispy noodle salad and kabocha squash puré e. The vinaigrette contains shikuwasa , a small green citrus native to Taiwan and Okinawa that is beautifully acidic and floral.” Okinawa pork belly features black sugar glaze, edamame, sugar snaps, and shiitake mushrooms. Freshwater prawn warm yellow curry is served with calamansi and BBQ eggplant. “We always do something people know and mix it with what they’d like to see,” says Rhodes. “That’s what inspires our dessert of crème brûlée with mango salad, coconut, and mung bean granola to add the perfect texture and contrast.”

TK | heart of italy

忠诚度和热情。」热情好客也是德事商务中心的理念之一。

Paul 的妻子 Susan 会定期为员工提供美味健康的午餐选择。为庆祝德事商务中心成立二十五周年，一场特别晚宴将安排在香港最新且最受欢迎的餐厅「Kinship」举行。「Kinship」位于中环的黄金地段，灵感源于「家庭至上」的单纯前提，其「农场到餐桌」的经营理念，突显出与家族经营的当地农场以及供应商间的永续关系，优雅轻松的氛围为餐厅营造出乐享佳肴美酒的欢欣时光。为了迎接这个周年晚宴，「Kinship」合伙人 Chris Grare 与主厨 Arron Rhodes 精心制作两款四道菜式的菜单，除了融合各自背景─美式和英式的风格，也赞扬亚洲的食材和影响力。「Kinship」为晚宴准备的菜式充满惊喜，「五香熏牛肉采用以孜然、芫荽、 Chris 介绍：肉桂、黑胡椒、芥末籽等混合而成的秘方熏制，炙烧后搭配香脆面条沙律和日本南瓜泥，而香醋中的香柠是一种台湾和冲绳特产的绿色小柑橘，带有完美酸度和花香。」冲绳五花肉的食材有黑糖蜜釉、毛豆、豌豆和香菇，而淡水虾黄咖喱搭配的是金桔和烧「我们会将大家期望见到的烤茄子。Arron 说：食材融入到熟悉的料理中，由此创作了这道烤布蕾甜点，搭配芒果沙律、椰子和绿豆麦片增添完美和充满对比的口感。」

PRESENTED BY THE EXECUTIVE CENTRE

heart of italy

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Executive Chinese Chef Jayson Tang 中菜行政总厨邓家濠

PRESENTED BY CHAMPAGNE BARONS DE ROTHSCHILD

花样新派

something different Champagne Barons de Rothschild pairs its fabled French wines with fine-dining Cantonese food.

“ T H I S WA S A P R E T T Y B I G C H A L L E N G E ,”

admits Executive Chef Jayson Tang, referring to the recent collaboration between Champagne Barons de Rothschild and Man Ho Chinese Restaurant at JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong. “Diners,” he adds, BY “are probably more familANDREA LO iar with eating Cantonese • cuisine with red or white PHOTOGRAPHY BY wines. In pairing it with DAVID HARTUNG Champagnes, we have to change our mindset, adjusting our recipes and ingredients to coordinate perfectly.” Frederic Mairesse, managing director of Champagne Barons de Rothschild, was also up for the challenge. “We wanted to do something special with JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong and our Champagnes, something different,” he says. Since its establishment in 2005 by three branches of the illustrious winemaking dynasty, Champagne Barons de Rothschild has experienced a stratospheric rise. Generations of know-how synonymous with the Rothschild name, along with strict policies surrounding grape supplies and the high proportion of chardonnay grapes used in every cuvee, have made its Champagnes among the most distinguished on the market. Each wine the house produces has its own unique characteristics, yet all are versatile enough to pair with a variety of dishes. Guided by its philosophy of “consistency, purity, refinement, and perfection,” Barons de Rothschild partners with only a select number of fine-dining restaurants and boutique wine shops around the globe. “The Rothschild

Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs 2008 is hailed as one of the Champagne house’s best vintages. Barons de Rothschild 白中白香槟 2008被誉为酒庄最好的年份酒之一。

谈及 Barons de Rothschild 香槟与香港 JW 万豪酒店中菜厅万豪金殿的联袂合作，中菜行政总厨邓家濠坦言：「这真是项巨大的挑战。」邓总厨续说：「宾客可能较熟悉于吃粤菜时配红酒或白酒，所以若要搭配香槟，我们就必须在菜单设计上改变既有模式，并调整食谱和食材，使餐酒能够与菜式完美搭配。」

Barons de Rothschild 香槟总经理 Frederic Mairesse 也欣然面对挑战。他说：「我们想结合香港 JW 万豪酒店和自家的香槟，创造新花样。」

2005 年，Barons de Rothschild 香槟由知名酿酒家族的三个分支组成，其后该香槟经历飞速发展。这有赖 Barons de Rothschild 的家族名声及代代相传的专业，并严格把关葡萄的供应，每批酒亦使用高比例的霞多丽葡萄，其香槟才会 heart of italy

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PRESENTED BY CHAMPAGNE BARONS DE ROTHSCHILD

The vinaigrette complements the freshness of the scallops and also highlights the unique qualities of the Champagnes.

香醋和元贝皇的鲜甜相得益彰，也突显出香槟的独特质感。

family,” says Mairesse, “wants to create the best of the best.” Mairesse worked with Tang for about a week to create faultless matches between food and wines. “Since our Champagnes have a certain acidity,” he says, “we needed to balance them with the rich and intense flavors of Cantonese cuisine. Each dish is very specific, but with the blends we have, it turned out a resounding success.” Taking inspiration from some of Man Ho’s signature dishes, Tang tweaked his recipes to suit each Champagne’s flavors and aromas: “I needed to pay a lot of attention to what Frederic was saying as he took a bite from each dish and sipped Champagne.” The final menu includes exceptional pairings like pan-fried Japanese Hokkaido scallops and tomato-shallot vinaigrette paired with Barons de Rothschild Brut. With 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir, the blend contains reserve wines from a minimum of three vintages. The vinaigrette, explains Tang, complements the subtleties of the scallops and also highlights the unique qualities of the Champagne. “We wanted to pair the Brut’s bright citrus aromas with a vinaigrette,” says Mairesse. Deep -fried crispy baby pigeon is matched with Barons de Rothschild Rosé Brut, made from 85 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot noir. It has, says Mairesse, “a freshness with a hint of fruity aroma” that balances the rich flavors of the pigeon, selected for its relatively low fat content. “You‘ll taste a very crispy skin and juicy meat within,” adds Tang.

TK | heart of italy

在当今市场脱颖而出。Barons de

Rothschild 的香槟各有特色，这种多样性让他们能配搭不同风味的菜肴。秉持着「一致、纯正、精致和完美」的理念，Barons de

Rothschild 仅与一部分精选的高级餐饮场所和精品葡萄酒商店「Barons de 合作。Frederic 说： Rothschild 家族总是希望创造最好的。」

Frederic 和邓总厨花了一星期时间钻研，创作出绝佳的餐酒搭配。他说：「由于我们的香槟具有一定酸度，因此需要透过粤菜繁复强烈的风味来调和。每道菜都独具特色，但是搭配上我们的混酿酒后，就成了浑然一体的佳肴美酒。」邓总厨从万豪金殿的现有菜式中汲取灵感，微调食谱以配合每款香槟的风味和香气。他补充：「Frederic 在品尝每道料理并啜饮香槟时所说的每一句话，我都专心聆听。」最终的菜单呈现各式绝妙的搭配，像是「番茄干葱煎元贝皇」搭配 Barons de Rothschild 干型香槟，这款佳酿混合六成的霞多丽和四成的黑皮诺葡萄，是至少陈年三年的混酿酒。邓总厨解释说，香醋与元贝皇的鲜甜相得益彰，元贝皇在锅中轻煎后置入烤箱三分钟，也突显出香槟的独特质感。Frederic 说：「我们希望将干型香槟的柑橘香气、霞多丽的新鲜与香醋结合起来。」「生炸雏鸽」与 Barons de Rothschild 干型粉红香槟相互

Pan-fried Japanese Hokkaido scallops with tomato-shallot vinaigrette 番茄干葱煎元贝皇

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PRESENTED BY CHAMPAGNE BARONS DE ROTHSCHILD

←← Deep-fried crispy baby pigeon 生炸雏鸽 ↓ Pan-fried amadai 玉凝金鳞

The chef chose to replace lobster – “something everyone knows will appear in Cantonese cuisine” – with flathead lobster. Served with steamed egg, dried fish roe, and saffron, it is paired with Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blanc. “Flathead lobster has a texture similar to lobster’s,” he explains, “but its flavors don’t overwhelm the nuances of the Champagne.” With around 42 percent reserve wines, Blanc de Blanc is a complex blend. “Its well-balanced flavors,” says Mairesse, “include the freshness and acidity of the chardonnay as well as citrus.” Finally, pan-fried amadai is served with sweet corn sauce and paired with Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blanc 2008, “one of our finest vintages,” according to Mairesse. “You have the clean chardonnay and a touch of vanilla, followed by toasty notes.” The dish, taking inspiration from the homey Cantonese classic of fish fillet with corn sauce, features prized Japanese amadai sourced from the waters off Fukuoka. “The very juicy flesh contrasts with the crispy outside,” says Tang. “It’s a light dish that works splendidly with this lovely Champagne.”

More information is available from ASC Fine Wines – Hong Kong (www.asc-wines.com) at 852 3923 6700.

搭配，由八成五的霞多丽和一成五的黑皮诺制成。

Frederic 说这款香槟的清新果香平衡了雏鸽的繁复风味，而选用雏鸽是因其肉质的脂肪量较低。邓总厨说：「每一口都能尝到非常酥脆的外皮和多汁的嫩肉。」邓总厨不用粤菜中常见的龙虾，而选用味道细腻的猪琶虾，配上蒸蛋、干鱼籽和藏红花，完成「金影玉玲珑」，再搭配 Barons de Rothschild 白中白香槟。他解释道：「猪琶虾的口感与龙虾相若，但味道较鲜甜爽口，衬托出香槟的微妙香气。」白中白香槟是层次复「其杂的混酿酒，含有约四成二的陈年酒。Frederic 说：和谐风味中带有霞多丽和柑橘的新鲜和酸度。」与「玉凝金鳞」搭配的是 Barons de Rothschild 白中白香槟 2008，Frederic 说：「這是最好的年份酒之一，您会品尝到霞多丽的新鲜感和香草的风味，伴随着暖心的韵味。」这道菜式的灵感来自家常粤式经典─ 粟米斑腩，特色是選用了产自福冈海域的珍贵日本甘鲷。邓总厨说：「甘鲷的多汁嫩肉与香脆外皮对比强烈，这道轻盈的料理佐上这款美妙的香槟堪称绝配。」

更多资讯，请见 ASC 精品酒业网站 www.asc-wines.com 或电洽 852 3923 6700。 heart of italy

TK |

粵韻珍味

EDIBLE TREASURES Juliana Loh discovers how Sabatino Tartufi adds a sumptuous dimension to the refined Cantonese cuisine of Flower Drum.

“IT IS SO IMPORTANT to respect the ingredients and use only the very best quality,” says Nansen Lai, who is chef-proprietor of Hong Kong’s Flower Drum and the son of a master of Cantonese cooking. “I grew up around the kitchen with my dad and it was good training for my palate.” Today, Lai continues the family tradition at Flower Drum, where his pursuit of excellence is deliciously evident in a menu favorite, Steamed Egg White Dumpling with Lobster Meat and Black Truffle. “The delicate dumpling wrapper is of Fujian origin,” he says. “We give it a Cantonese touch in the cooking process, and I’ve added the exceptional flavors of Sabatino Tartufi Black Truffle Sauce, Black Truffle Paté, and Truffle Zest to the marinated lobster.” Like Lai, Sabatino Tartufi continues to carry on a family tradition, one that since 1911 has specialized in sourcing premium wild truffles. Over the decades, the team’s expertise and long experience has led to the discovery of new and innovative ways of preserving truffles, presented in a luxurious line of versatile products designed to help consumers and culinary professionals enhance a wide spectrum of cuisines. According to Nelson Wong of Luen Kee Hoo, Hong Kong distributors of Sabatino Tartufi, “Consistency is the key to everything they do, and that’s why Sabatino Tartufi is world-renowned for its creative range of products, from truffle zest to truffle honey, and for the unparalleled flavor of its fresh black and white truffles.”

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From left to right: Alberto Perez, Nelson Wong and Nansen Lai

「重视与坚持使用上等品质的食材十分重要。」黎兆锋说道。身为香港「锋膳」的店长主厨兼粤菜名厨之子的他还说：「我跟着父亲在厨房中长大，这有利于我味蕾的养成。」如今，黎主厨在「锋膳」延续了家族传统。菜单上最受欢迎的餐点 ─ 黑松露龙虾石榴球，完美展现了他对卓越的追求。他说：「精巧的饺皮作法源自福建，但我们在料理过程中糅合了广东风味。我还在腌过的龙虾肉中调入萨巴提诺黑松露酱、黑松露肝酱和松露粉，使其独具香气。」像黎主厨一样，萨巴提诺公司秉持着家族传统，自

1911 年以来始终致力于采收优质的野生松露。数十年来，公司团队凭借着专业知识和长期经验，研究出保存松露的创新方法，推出一系列华丽不凡的产品，助力消费者和专业厨师实现料理多元的提升。萨巴提诺香港经销商「他们所做一切的关键 ─ 联记号的 Nelson Wong 表示：在于一致性，这就是萨巴提诺松露会闻名世界的原因。该品牌创新的产品线覆盖松露粉、松露蜂蜜，以及风味无与伦比的新鲜黑、白松露，包罗万有。」

PRESENTED BY

all about truffles

↗ Chicken Rice with White Truffle and Shredded Cured Ham in Thick Soup 白松露腿丝皇汤鸡饭 → Steamed Egg White Dumpling with Lobster Meat and Black Truffle

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

黑松露龙虾石榴球

That unparalleled flavor makes its unmistakable mark on Chef Lai’s aromatic signature dish of Chicken Rice with White Truffle and Shredded Cured Ham in Thick Soup, which features the lavish taste of Sabatino Tartufi Alba white truffle. In this modern take on classic Cantonese clay pot rice, the chef uses a cast iron pot and combines the traditional Chinese cooking technique with that of a risotto, a dish that is his personal favorite. For his special recipe, Lai insists on local yellow chicken for its quality and flavor. Three chickens are deboned and seasoned with salt, pepper, and sugar before being pan-fried until 60 percent cooked. They are added to the boiled rice with onions, ginger, and Yunnan ham to create a complex but not overly rich stock. The final result has a crispy, slightly burned bottom like clay pot rice. To elevate the dish to sumptuous heights, Sabatino Tartufi white truffles are shaved over it tableside, enhancing its earthy goodness and perfectly balancing its layered flavors. “I think what I do – and what Sabatino Tartufi does – is similar to winemaking,” says Lai. “Like winemakers, we strive to make the most of our ingredients by envisioning the flavors of the finished product.”

More information is available from Hong Kong distributor Luen Kee Hoo Co. Ltd (www.luenkee.com, 852 2548 7111) or contact the office of Sabatino Asia at 852 3956 8059.

黎主厨香气四溢的招牌菜 ─ 白松露腿丝皇汤鸡饭，充分展现出这抹独特的风味。他使用铸铁锅蒸煮白米，结合传统中式厨艺和他最爱的意式炖饭，创作出揉合现代风味的广东煲仔饭作为饭底。他更因为本地黄鸡的品质与味道，选用黄鸡作为汤底主材料。黄鸡经去骨后以盐、胡椒及糖腌制，煎至六成熟后，再加入与洋葱、姜以及云南火腿一起熬煮的白米中，煮成香气繁复，但又不会过于浓厚的汤底。最终成品会如煲仔饭一般，带有香脆的饭焦。为了尽显这道菜的奢华香气，上菜时会于桌边现磨数片萨巴提诺白松露，带出大地风味，巧妙平衡菜式丰富的层次感。黎主厨说：「我觉得自己与萨巴提诺所做的事就像是在酿酒，如酿酒师一般，透过对成品味道的构想，将所有食材发挥到极致。」

更多资讯，请见联记号有限公司网站 www.luenkee.com 或电洽 852 2548 7111，亦可致电 852 3956 8059 與萨巴提诺亚洲分公司联络。 heart of italy

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经典升华

LEG UP Duck & Waffle raises a Tennessee classic to gastronomic heights.

Duck & Waffle 鸭腿窝夫

「Duck & Waffle」香港分店的主厨 Daniel Barbosa 来自 CHEF DANIEL BARBOSA, originally from Porto in northern Portugal, paints a per葡萄牙北部波尔图，他运用厨艺上的巧思，成功为分店 fect picture of the culinary concept that has quickly made Hong Kong’s Duck & Waffle 带来如伦敦本店般的名气。他说：「设计餐点犹如在画布 as well-known an icon as the original restaurant in London: “Coming up with a dish is 上作画，层层堆叠，深浅不一。」 like painting a canvas – you add layers, some more subtle than others, some deeper.” 很少餐厅能只因一道餐点而声名大噪，甚至还以 Few restaurants are so famed for and defined by a single dish that they’re 之命名。以其招牌菜命名的伦敦「Duck & named after it. Incredibly, more than a million portions of duck and waffle BY Waffle」，至今已卖出超过一百万份的鸭腿窝夫。 have been served in London to date. And now, in its elegant but relaxed CHRIS DWYER 如今，「Duck & Waffle」将其香港分店设于国 dining room at Hong Kong’s IFC, overlooking busy Victoria Harbour, Duck 际金融中心，分店装潢典雅闲适，能俯瞰繁荣 & Waffle is on track to set a similar record here. “Pretty much every check 「几的维多利亚港，有望创下同样辉煌的成就。Daniel 说： has an order – sometimes two – for our signature,” says Barbosa. “The flavor profile 乎每桌都会点上一道，有时甚至两道我们的招牌菜。这 is something that locals in particular can really relate to.” 些独特菜肴为香港人带来他們熟悉的地道倫敦风味。」 The dish, says the chef, is a take on chicken and waffles, a Tennessee tradition: “We’re elevating it and making it more refined by using a confit duck leg and a Daniel 为招牌菜鸭腿窝夫添加了田纳西传统风味。他介绍说：「我们精益求精，采用油封鸭腿和蛋黄味道更 duck egg with a richer-flavored yolk. Then Canadian maple syrup with mustard seed

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PRESENTED BY STAR HOSPITALITY GROUP

↑ Corn “Ribs” with black garlic and fermented chilli 烤玉米肋骨 ←

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Daniel Barbosa

is poured over the broken egg and fluffy waffle. We use free-range British duck – I’ve been down to the farm myself, because, in line with our ethos, we’re very conscious of how animals are raised and treated.” The restaurant’s variation on corn ribs, another favorite, is a recipe that came from a kitchen without boundaries: Barbosa encourages everyone to come up with ideas that are then discussed, tried, and refined. “It’s a team effort, not a one-man job,” he says. “I saw a version of this at an American food fair and we discussed doing it with a ketchup with black garlic, gochujang paste, vinegar, and soy. You cut the cob in such a way that it curls when exposed to heat. It’s very popular!” So are the simple-sounding but sensational bacon-wrapped dates: “We use Medjool dates stuffed with Portuguese linguiça sausage and wrapped in British Dingley Dell bacon. Our kitchen follows the same philosophy as in London by using only the best ingredients.” Packed tables affirm an approach that’s already paying delicious dividends in Hong Kong.

饱满的鸭蛋，再以芥末籽加拿大枫糖浆淋在切开的鸭蛋和蓬松的窝夫上。我们选用放养的英国鸭，我亦亲自走访农场，对动物的饲养过程非常重视。」深受喜爱的玉米肋骨则是一道无国界料理的改良「这是团版。Daniel 鼓励集思广益、试验并改良。他说：队合作，不是一个人的努力。我在美国美食展上看到了这道餐点的一个新版本，于是和大家一起讨论用番茄酱加黑蒜、韩式辣酱、醋和大豆来料理，而运用特别手法切出的玉米，使玉米芯受热时卷曲，结果大受欢迎！」餐厅的培根裹椰枣，听似简单的菜式，却也让人惊「我们在帝王椰枣中镶入葡式香肠，艳不已。Daniel 说：并包裹在英式蜜糖渍培根中。我们与伦敦的餐厅秉持着相同理念，只选用最上等的食材。」他的经营理念在此得到实践，使餐厅座无虚席。 heart of italy

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Winner Slamet Haryadi 比赛冠军Slamet Haryadi

PRESENTED BY PATRÓN

夺魁传奇

reaching for perfection A Hong Kong contender wins the Greater China finals of the 2019 Patrón Perfectionists tequila cocktail competition.

10 月 24 日，2019 培恩专业调酒师大 AN INTRIGUING COMBINATION of Patrón Añejo, corn 赛大中华区决赛在广州圆满落幕。六 purée, and bee pollen took the prize on October 24 in 位来自中国内地、香港及台湾的调酒 Guangzhou, where six talented entrants from Mainland 师浑身解数，争夺冠军头衔。最后由 China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan competed in the 2019 Patrón 一杯以培恩珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒、玉米 Perfectionists Greater China finals. 泥及蜂花粉调制而成的创 Slamet Haryadi, bartender at Mandarin BY 新调酒脱颖而出。 Oriental, Hong Kong, came out on top with Maiz SHAN HUANG 经过一番激烈的角逐， Bee, a cocktail that, according to judges Nick Cox & GRACE TSUI 香港文华东方酒店的调酒 of Patrón and Jay Khan of Hong Kong’s COA Bar, • 师 Slamet Haryadi 凭他的 brilliantly demonstrated his originality, style, and PHOTOGRAPHY BY professional skills. Maiz Bee 调酒勇夺冠军。 MICHEAL SHAO 来自培恩的 Nick Cox 和香 Indonesian by birth, Haryadi took inspiration 港「COA」酒吧的 Jay Khan from his country’s main crop, corn. Known as maiz 是其中两位比赛评委，据他们的点评， in the birthplace of tequila, it is used in Indonesia, just as in Mexico, in all kinds of dishes. “Before this, I’d never thought Maiz Bee 完美展现 Slamet 的创作力、风格及专业技巧。 about adding corn as an element to cocktails,” says Haryadi, “but I hope my creation will explain the story and culture of Slamet 祖籍印尼，他的参赛作品灵感正是来自他家乡的主要农作物 my homeland.” －玉米。Maiz 在龙舌兰酒的故乡墨西 Other components that lend the drink its tantalizing 哥的语系中正是玉米的意思，印尼人 complexity include fat-washed bianco vermouth. As Haryadi 也会将玉米制成各种各样的美食享用。 concedes, fat-washing, which dates to around 2007, is 「在这之前，我从没想过 nothing new in the bartending world. The process involves Slamet 表示：在调酒中加入玉米元素，但我期望这 infusion of alcohol with a savory flavor from a molten fatty 杯 Maiz Bee 能宣扬我家乡的故事和文 ingredient, which is separated out once the mixture has been 化。」 cooled. It’s a tricky technique that sometimes yields tastes difficult to harmonize with the drink as a whole. Haryadi Maiz Bee 的另一个致胜关键是加入了油脂浸泡的白威沫酒。Slamet 表 infuses the vermouth with butter flavored with nutmeg and 示油脂浸泡早在 2007 年出现，在调酒 oregano to provide a spicy umami layer and succeeds admi界已不是什么新颖的处理手法。油脂 rably in achieving balance with the sweet-and-sour of fresh 浸泡即是把含有油分的风味原料加入 lemon juice and bee pollen agave syrup. 酒中浸泡，将其风味融入酒中，冷却 The addition of corn purée brings it all together and 后再将酒和油脂分离。这种处理手法 gives the cocktail a satisfying body and silky mouthfeel. To 非常棘手，有机会产生与饮料整体难 add a further note from the land of Patrón, Haryadi includes a 以协调的味道。Slamet 将威沫酒与以 few drops of avocado oil for a finishing touch. Each element

Haryadi infuses the vermouth with butter flavored with nutmeg and oregano to provide a spicy umami layer and succeeds admirably in achieving balance with the sweetand-sour of fresh lemon juice and bee pollen agave syrup. Slamet将威沫酒与以肉豆蔻和牛至调味的黄油一起浸泡，增添鲜味和复杂的辛香，并以新鲜的柠檬汁和蜂花粉龙舌兰糖浆达至酸甜平衡。

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PRESENTED BY PATRÓN

肉豆蔻和牛至调味的黄油一起浸泡，增添一层鲜味和复杂的辛香，并以新鲜的柠檬汁和蜂花粉龙舌兰糖浆达至酸甜平衡。玉米泥作为这款调酒的主要风味呈现，同时也带来一种厚重却又顺滑的口感。为了添加更多龙舌兰酒故乡的元素，Slamet 特别加入了几滴牛油果油，作为点睛之笔。每一种材料充分融合，同时清晰呈现本身具有的风味，培恩珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒柔和的橡木、香草、葡萄干和蜂蜜味道，以及烟熏焦糖味也表露无遗。

Slamet 成功俘虏了评委们的味蕾，他在细节上的用心更是他的优胜之处。Maiz Bee 的 Bee 指的就是培恩龙舌兰酒瓶上的蜜蜂，而这一元素在调酒上的体现是蜂花粉。蜂花粉不仅混合在龙舌兰糖浆中，也添加在装饰用的烤玉米饼上。Slamet 更为调酒定制了形状和培恩龙舌兰酒瓶相同的铜杯，由印尼的匠人以回收铜金属手工打造。「Slamet 刚好在限定时间内完 Jay 表示：

blends in seamlessly while retaining its distinctive character, allowing Patrón Añejo’s mellow flavors of oak wood, vanilla, raisins, and honey, along with its smoky caramel notes, to shine through. Besides capturing the taste buds of the judges, Haryadi also impressed them with his attention to detail and engaging showmanship. The bee in his drink’s name, a nod to the one on Patrón’s label, was represented by bee pollen both in the cocktail’s agave syrup and on the tortillas that were part of the presentation. And he served his creation in a recycled-copper cup specially made in Indonesia in the shape of a Patrón bottle. “Slamet managed to finish under the time limit, without wasting a second,” says Khan. “And he was confident during the presentation, with no sign of nerves.” For this, Haryadi credited his hours and hours of practice that went so far as to rehearse his introduction in the shower. As one of twenty-two national finalists from around the world, Haryadi has earned a spot at the upcoming global finals this January in Mexico. But until then, he says he plans to continue tweaking the formula toward ultimate perfection.

TK | heart of italy

↑ “No sign of nerves“ Slamet在比赛期间亳不怯场 ↓ Judge Jay Khan 评委 Jay Khan

成了，没有浪费一分一秒，也没有明显的紧张感，这些细节非常优秀。」Slamet 则谦虚地将此归功于他日积月累的经验，以及在洗澡时练习如何介绍自己的作品。身为挤身全球总决赛的二十一位选手之一，Slamet 将于一月前往墨西哥参加总决赛。在那之前，Slamet 表示仍会进一步调整配方，力臻完美。

The winning drink’s custommade copper container 得奖作品所用的特制铜杯

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

与星共饮

drinking with the stars Movie-inspired cocktails are now playing at Mandarin Oriental’s Vida Rica Bar.

「御苑酒廊」的调酒团队放眼电影世界， VIDA RICA’S BARTENDING TEAM has looked to the 以澳门本地艺术电影为主题，创作最新 world of cinema, drawing on themes from local art的鸡尾酒单，包括《再见澳门》、《非法 house movies for their latest cocktail menu, with entries 者》，以及《就这样认识了，晚上》等。 like The Last Time I Saw Macau, Illegalist, and Gin, Sake, 继极其成功的「调酒与艺术第一卷 Margarita. After their hugely successful series cal led – 传说」系列作品后，调酒团队走上澳门街头找寻第二次创作的灵 Mixology: Legends and Cocktails Volume 感。沿着知名的恋爱巷走下 1, the team went into the streets of Macau BY 去，调酒师 Marks Solomko for ideas for their second go-around. Down INARA SIM 发现了「恋爱 • 电影馆」， famous Love Lane, they happened upon • 这是澳门首间也是唯一一 Cinematheque Passion, Macau’s first and PHOTOGRAPHY BY 间提供另类电影的艺术馆。 only art house offering alternative films. DAVID HARTUNG 「我们走进去时， “We stepped inside,” says bartender Marks Marks 说：第一眼就看到《就这样认识了，晚上》 Solomko, “and the first thing we saw was a poster 的海报，意外地找到灵感。」「调酒与电 for Gin, Sake, Margarita. It was serendipitous – we’d 影馆第二卷 – 映画」酒单随之而生，这 found our inspiration.” And so was born Cinematheque: 是整个团队的共同构思，蜕变自他们曾 Movies and Cocktails Volume 2, which the team 协力调制的系列创意饮品。 describes as a shared concept that evolved from all 「电影馆酒单」上的十一款自制鸡 their creative juices working together. 尾酒各以一部澳门文化艺术电影为灵 Highlighting art-house films based on Macanese 感，其中四款将于下文介绍。当中还有 culture, the Cinematheque menu includes eleven hand受本地动画电影启发而调制的无酒精鸡 crafted cocktails, four of which are presented here, as 尾酒、基于传奇卖座电影所创作的木桶 well as mocktails inspired by local animated films, bar陈酿经典酒款和以电影情节为主题的一 rel-aged classics based on legendary movie favorites, 系列小食。 and cinema-themed food bites.

TK | HEART OF ITALY

THE AGE OF HANGOVER 《无聊戏》

This heart-wrenching film with a somber ending brought to mind the dramatic color and bitter notes of a negroni, prompting the team to create their own variation. “This is a gin-based cocktail,” says Solomko. “We infuse the spirit with pandan leaf for herbal flavor and add plum liqueur and dry vermouth as well as orange and rhubarb bitters. It’s garnished with seaweed and capers and a little spray of rosemary to give it the beautiful aroma.” 这部痛彻心扉的电影结局忧暗，让人联想到内格罗尼调酒的鲜明色彩和「这是一款以琴酒苦涩滋味，激发调酒团队创作出新版本。Marks 说：为基底的鸡尾酒，我们将香兰叶浸渍于烈酒中，以突显草本风味，并调入李子利口酒、干苦艾酒、橙子和大黄苦精，最后以海藻、酸豆和迷迭香装饰，使鸡尾酒散发出迷人香气。」

SISTERHOOD 《骨妹》

The story of three friends, one from Macau, one from Taiwan, and one from Mainland China, inspired the team to use a unique ingredient representing each country – pineapple from Taiwan, saffron from Macau, and Sichuan pepper from China. “The pineapple syrup and saffron mixed together gives it a golden color, a little bit glittery, which makes it extra special,” says Solomko. 这段关于三个分别来自澳门、台湾、中国内地的朋友的故事，启发调酒团队以各地区的代表原料来创作，分别是澳门番红花、台湾凤梨和中国四川花椒。「凤梨糖浆和番红花混合后使 Marks 说：鸡尾酒呈现金黄色泽，闪闪发亮，格外特别。」

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

I L L EG A L I S T 《非法者》

A bittersweet love story, the Illegalist is a twist on the traditional Whisky Sour, using limoncello infused with beeswax. “We melt the wax and then put it in a jar with the limoncello and Dao Jao and let it infuse for a month,” says Solomko. “The result is silky limoncello with honey and floral notes.” The drink is garnished with a piece of Chinese honey cake made to resemble the bricks of the construction worker. 电影中苦甜参半的爱情故事，启发调酒团队运用蜂蜡柠檬酒为威士忌酸酒调「我们融化蜂蜡，出新花样。Marks 说：将其与柠檬酒和桃胶一同放入罐中浸渍一个月。成品口感丝滑，带有蜜香和花香。」调酒亦以貌似建筑砖头的中式蜂蜜蛋糕作为装饰。

G I N , S A K E , M A R G A R I TA 《就这样认识了，晚上》

The movie about three women who go out drinking in Macau became the basis for the first drink on the new menu. “This was an easy place to start,” says Solomko. “It’s a twist on the classic martini, using gin, sake, and clarified margarita. We do a milk wash to make it transparent and give it a velvety texture. Then we add gin and sake and top it with mango and strawberry pearls.” 这部电影讲述三名在澳门出外欢饮的女子，该故事成为新酒单中第一款鸡尾酒「这款酒的创意起源的基调。Marks 说：比较简单，就是经典马天尼鸡尾酒的新版本。我们使用琴酒、清酒和澄清的玛格丽塔酒。我们也透过奶洗手法增加透明度，赋予轻柔的质感，然后倒入琴酒和清酒，其上缀以芒果和草莓珍珠。」 heart of italy

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OCTOBER TO DECEMBER marks the season for that rarest and most mysterious of aromatic subterranean delights, the white truffle. It’s the enchanted time when these culinary diamonds are lavished on dishes that steal the spotlight and bring excitement to even the most jaded of palates. Recently at Galaxy Macau’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, founder Umberto Bombana joined forces with in-house executive chef Antimo Merone and Riccardo La Perna, executive chef of Shanghai’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, for a one-

↑ Red Tuna Tartare with “8½ selection” caviar 红呑拿鱼塔塔 → Chestnut Gnocchi with Alba white truffle 手工自制板栗土豆面团

night-only seven-course white-truffle extravaganza to remember. VIVIAN PUN “We share Chef Bombana’s philosophy,” says La Perna, “but he’s the papa. This is an exceptional event because of the location and because it’s the reunion of us three cooking together as a family.” Each dish was crafted with the restaurant’s famous finesse and from the best and most carefully sourced seasonal ingredients. As the Fine Chicken Consommé was served, the three chefs personally shaved slices from Alba white truffles over each plate of soup, blanketing the surface. “We always use different truffles in the same dish,” says Bombana, “so the taste can be more complex – each one has its own flavor and aroma.” Their fragrance came bursting forth with the smallest stir of the clear soup. In the next course, gnocchi with a molten fondue sauce of perfectly balanced parmesan and white truffle exploded with flavor on the palate. “In our food, ” says Merone, “we give priority to taste rather than appearance. We simply present the dish so that it can be easily recognized and understood.”

TK | heart of italy

GALAXY MACAU (3)

TASTING NEWS

松露盛典

heavenly fungus “King of White Truffles” Umberto Bombana and his executive chefs take guests on a celestial dining adventure.

每年的十月至十二月是稀有、神秘又香气四溢的地底美食－「白松露」成熟的季节。这些餐桌上的钻石像有一种神秘的魔力，当它豪迈地洒落在一道道佳肴上，总是令人目眩神迷，即便是最挑剔的饕客也为之向往。近日，「澳门银河 TM」的「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」的行政主厨 Antimo Merone 与上海「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」的行政主厨 Riccardo La Perna，联同创办人 Umberto Bombana 齐心协力，呈现仅此一晚的白松露盛宴。「我们与主厨 Bombana 有志一同，但他 Riccardo 说：是我们的军师。我们三人难得在异地如家人般聚首、一同下厨。」餐厅名闻遐迩的烹饪技艺，加上当季顶尖食材，造就一道道美食杰作。鸡肉清汤甫上桌，三位主厨便手起刀落，一片片珍稀的阿尔巴白松露如霜般飘下，铺满清汤表面。「我们总是将各种白松露结合在一道菜中，由 Bombana 说：此提升料理的味觉层次 — 让每种白松露各展所长，表现它的香与味。」轻轻搅动清汤，白松露的香气瞬间缭绕扑鼻。下一道菜，主厨们将芳香芝士熔浆融合白松露，均匀包裹着板栗土豆面团，入口滋味无与伦比。Antimo 总结：「对比摆盘，我们更重视料理的口味。我们追求简单易懂的摆盘。」 heart of italy

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Eel from Fire to Roner 烧和慢煮鳗鱼

皮埃蒙特原味

fresh from piedmont

铜锣湾一条不起眼的小路上，新开张的「Castellana」隐 TUCKED AWAY DOWN A SMALL STREET in Causeway Bay lies newly opened 藏其中，犹如隐世高人一般，怀有一身来自意大利皮埃蒙 Castellana, a hidden gem that champions the best of Piedmontese cuisine. 特的高强厨艺。来自皮埃蒙特米其林二星餐厅「Piccolo Launched in collaboration with Marco Sacco, Executive Chef and Founder Lago」的创办人兼行政主厨 Marco Sacco 是背后支柱之一， of Piedmont’s two-Michelin-star Piccolo Lago, the forty-cover restaurant offers 这间四十座的餐厅主打运用道地食材，端出香港少见的皮 authentic regional products and dishes rarely seen in Hong Kong, including Alpine 鲔鱼酱小牛肉、埃蒙特料理，包括 Fassona 牛肉、 Fassona beef, vitello tonnato, lake fish, and Alba’s famous white truffles. BY 湖鱼以及阿尔巴的著名白松露。 Director Matteo Fabio Morello and Executive Chef Fabiano LUCY JENKINS 总监 Matteo Fabio Morello 与行政主厨 Palombini are driven to source the perfect elements for each dish. “Because it borders France to the west,” says Palombini, “Piedmont Fabiano Palombini 致力为每道料理寻找最棒的「皮埃蒙特因左邻法国，造就法意混血、食材。Fabiano 说： has truly distinctive food that is a combination of Italian and French cuisines. And 独树一格的美味。纯正的皮埃蒙特食材可不是到处都有。」 genuine Piedmontese ingredients are quite hard to find.” 其中一道焦点菜式是当地特产、美味无比的培根蛋面， One of the menu’s highlights is the region’s exceptional carbonara made with 选用慢煮数小时并注入琴酒的蛋黄、哥瑞娜－帕达诺奶酪、 egg yolk slow-cooked for hours and infused with gin, Grana Padano, anchovies, 鯷鱼及皮埃蒙特帕马火腿制成。另一道是野黑蒜炖饭佐河虾 and Piedmontese prosciutto. Another is wild black garlic risotto with river prawns 及湖水草。如碰上十月中至一月底的白松露产季，两道菜都 and lake weed. During the height of white truffle season, mid-October to the end 会加上阿尔巴白松露，让美味升华；这种得来不易的地底美 of January, both dishes are served with the best available from Alba, where these 味，可都得靠拉戈托罗马阁挪露犬的灵鼻才能见天日。 elusive delicacies are unearthed with the help of trained Lagotto Romagnolo dogs. 另一道 Fassona 牛肉，选用放牧于海拔六百公尺以上， Another specialty is Fassona beef from a local breed of cattle that graze six 「这种阿尔卑斯山矮坡的皮埃蒙特特有牛种。Matteo 说： hundred meters above sea level on the lower slopes of the Alps. “They are inher牛生性懒惰，它们只吃端到面前的食物，而且吃饱就睡， ently lazy,” says Morello. “These cows eat only what’s in front of them and then 但这也是其肉质软嫩的原因，肥瘦均衡。这是世界上最棒 fall asleep, which makes them tender, without too much muscle or fat. It’s the 的牛肉。」 best beef in the world.” 「我们完全忠于传统。意大利面用黄油 “We stick fiercely to tradition,” adds Palombini. “Our pasta is made fresh Fabiano 补充：现做，不加一滴橄榄油。像这样的意式料理在香港并不多 with butter, not olive oil. Italian fine-dining cuisine like ours is not well-established 见，能将最原汁原味的意大利介绍给人们，就是我最大的 in Hong Kong, and if we can introduce a part of Italy that isn’t known to many 快乐。」 people, then that makes me very happy.”

TK | heart of italy

CASTELLANA (2)

Castellana introduces Hong Kong to the uniquely cross-cultural flavors of northwest Italy.

TASTING NEWS

Savoury and Sweet Jerusalem Artichokes 咸甜耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟

物尽其用

full potential Senior writer Mamie Chen chats with Igles Corelli, the legendary Italian chef behind three Michelin-starred restaurants: Trigabolo di Argenta (two stars), Locanda della Tamerice (one star), and Ristorante Atman (one star). He discusses his approach to zero waste and getting the most from quality ingredients. § 传奇意大利主厨Igles Corelli是三间米其林星级餐厅—两星

的「Trigabolo di Argenta」、一星的「Locanda della Tamerice」和「Ristorante Atman」的幕后功臣。Igles与资深作家 Mamie Chen对谈，分享零浪费的料理方法与如何善用优质食材。

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CHEF INTERVIEW

You coined the phrase “circular cooking.” What does it mean? Circular cooking is starting with the right ingredient of the right quality and finding ways to prepare and cook it so that we’re using it to its fullest potential – the inside, the outside, all the parts that others might throw away. Circular cooking is a way of showing respect to local farmers and fishermen and producers who take such care to supply high-quality products – and of showing respect for the products themselves. It’s also a response to a food industry that’s producing a lot of poor-quality products when we should be concentrating our attention on good-quality ones. Economically, this means that even if we spend a little more to buy a better product, in the end, we’ll use so much more of it that we’ll actually get greater value.

您创造「循环烹饪」一词，请问是什么意思？循环烹饪始于适宜的食材与恰当的品质，并找到不同的备制和烹饪方式来发挥其最大潜能。我们尽其所能地善用一切可能被他人丢弃的部分。循环烹饪是种尊重当地农民、渔民和生产者的方式，他们悉心供应优质产品，并展现出对产品的重视。现时有某些食品业生产大量劣质产品。这种烹饪作法也是对这些食品业的应对方式，表明我们应该聚焦于优质的产品。就经济层面而言，虽然我们要花更多的钱来购买更好的产品，但我们会善尽其用，实际上将从中获得更大的价值。

请问您能否举例如何以多元的方式来使

Can you give an example of how you use a single ingredient in multiple ways?

用单一食材？

Take Sicilian red prawns. If you buy frozen ones to save money, you’re just getting the body and losing half of the ingredient. But with high-quality fresh prawns, instead of throwing away the heads, we make them one of the main components of the dish. We extract their proteins, add some sparkling water and olive oil, and emulsify it together into a creamy sauce. Even then, we don’t throw out what you might think is waste. We take the heads and shells, put them in water, and create a broth. We can use that to make a risotto, adding some of the creamy sauce on top. Now you have the best risotto ai gamberoni . And there’s still a tiny bit of “waste” you can filter out of the broth. Bake it until dry, add some salt, and blend it to make a special marine salt. The only waste is the eyes. They’re very bitter, and I haven’t found a way to use them yet!

买冷冻虾，就只有虾身，是全虾的一半而已。

以西西里红虾为例，如果为了省钱而但若使用优质的新鲜虾，我们不会扔掉虾头或仅用作汤底，而是使它成为料理中的要素。我们取出其中的蛋白质，加些气泡水和橄榄油后打发成滑顺的酱料佐餐。除此之外，我们也不会丢弃被视为无用的部分。我们会将虾头和虾壳放入水中熬制汤底，可以用于料理意式炖饭，再加些柔滑浓郁的酱料，一道完美的意式鲜虾炖饭就此诞生。另外，我们仍可从汤底滤出些许「残渣」，将其烘烤至完全干燥后加一些盐，混合后制成特别的海盐。整只虾所剩的唯一浪费之处是眼睛，因为过于苦涩，我尚未找到利用的方法。

请问您是否也善用了其他「弃之可惜」的食材？

Any other “waste” you’ve put to good use? What’s the biggest problem with spaghetti alle vongole ? Usually the clams are at the bottom of the dish and the spaghetti is on top, so you’re really having plain spaghetti with clams on the side, and the shells are wasted. But I make a broth from the clamshells, using thermal shock to extract the flavors, and then cook the spaghetti in it risotto style. It’s creamy from the starch in the pasta and has absorbed all the flavors from the clam broth. The spaghetti would be very tasty even without the clam meat. And the muscle where the clam attaches to the shell – that’s actually very good too.

蕈菇最好的部分就是冒出土壤的那一节，我不会扔掉它，而是拿来熬制汤底，并用一种特殊的热冲击技术来萃取更多风味，汤头甚至比蕈菇本身更美味。蛤蛎意大利面的最大问题是什么？蛤蛎通常会沉在盘底，而意大利面却在上头，所以吃起来就像是素面配上一旁的蛤蛎而已。我则会用蛤壳炖汤，以热冲击法萃取风味，然后用料理炖饭的方式来煮意大利面，面条中的淀粉质就会变得浓郁顺口，吸饱蛤蛎汤中的所有风味，即使不加蛤蛎肉，面条本身也很够味，而附着于蛤壳上的闭壳肌其实也是美味至极。

REDDOG STUDIO

What’s rule number one for you? A quality product is really the most important thing. If isn’t good, you won’t be able to make use of all the parts. If you don’t have of the right kind of ingredients, then even if you’re the best chef, it’s not going to work.

请问您的首要原则为何？优质的产品确实是至关重要，如果品质不佳，则无法物尽其用，如果没有合适的食材，最优秀的厨师也很难展现才能。 heart of italy

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TK | HEART OF ITALY

TRAMIN

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WINE

意北琼浆

A TASTE OF ALTO ADIGE The distinctive wines of northernmost Italy are making their mark.

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TRAMIN, ROTTENSTEINER

意大利波尔扎诺市有一座古老的修道院，建筑前身是一座 IN THE CIT Y OF BOLZANO, on the site of a monastery 中古世纪的城堡，此处摆放着一个早已闲置的古董级木制 whose origins trace back to a medieval castle, an antique 葡萄酒压榨桶。桶上所标年份是 1542 年，这据说是意北 wooden wine press lies unused, inscribed with the year 1542. 的阿尔卑斯山区年代最久远的葡萄酒压榨桶，见证本区域 Reportedly the oldest one to survive in Alpine Italy, it testifies 长达一世纪的葡萄酒酿造传统。 to the region’s centuries-long tradition of winemaking. 波尔扎诺市是上阿迪杰区的最大的城市， Bolzano is the largest city in Italy’s far-north 位于意大利最北端，五世纪以来一直属于奥匈 region of Alto Adige. Part of Austria for five centuBY 帝国，第一次世界大战后才划给意大利。两地 ries, it was annexed by Italy at the end of the First RACHEL DUFFELL 文化在此交流汇聚，无论是建筑、美食与人文 World War, and the alluring mix of two cultures is 都散发着交融风格。此地居民多半会讲德语及意大利语。 apparent in the architecture, the food, and the people, most of 该区出产的葡萄酒也反映文化融合的特质，即使用本 whom speak German as well as Italian. 地与国际品种混酿，恰如其分展现本地高山气候的风土特 The wines, too, made from both indigenous and inter色。该区受多种微型气候覆盖，每年享有超过 300 天的晴 national varietals, are a reflection of the place, with its Alpine 朗日照，位处高山空气清新、夜晚温度凉爽，再加上多样 peaks and a distinctive range of microclimates that share 化的土壤类型，如富含白云石灰岩、火山斑岩的土壤，以 three hundred days of sunshine a year, fresh mountain air, 及含有石英与云母的原始岩壤，因此形成样貌丰富的自然 and cool nights. These combine with a variety of soil types – 风土。虽然此区酿造的葡萄酒数量仅占全国 1%，但是当 dolomitic limestone, volcanic porphyry, and primitive rock soil

TRAMIN

of quartz and mica – to create a diversity of terroirs. And while the region may produce less than 1 percent of Italy’s total output, 98 percent of its wines are labeled DOC. Alto Adige wine has been growing in stature in recent years. The 1980s marked a switch in focus from quantity to quality, and the more recent arrival of expert winemaking techniques has led to even greater promise. The region’s production is 60 percent whites, with pinot grigio the most-planted variety. Excellent examples include Nals Margreid Punggl, a winner of the Pinot Grigio International Challenge. Gerwurztraminer comes in a close second, with such superb expressions as Cantina Tramin Epokale, aged for several years at an altitude of two thousand meters in a former silver mine. Chardonnay, pinot bianco, and sauvignon blanc are among other varieties, with some fine wines made from smaller plantings of gruner veltliner (Pacherhof and Eisacktaler Kellerei produced excellent 2018

中 98% 的出品皆为 DOC 等级（法定产区葡萄酒）。近年来上阿迪杰区出产的酒品品质不断提升，八十年代是该产区葡萄酒酿造重心由量转质的分水岭，再加上引入越来越多的专业酿造技术，该区葡萄酒将大有可为。上阿迪杰区出产的葡萄酒约六成都是白葡萄酒，灰皮诺是此区种植面积最广的品种，酿造各式上等葡萄酒，如曾赢得国际灰皮诺葡萄酒大赛的 Nals Margreid Punggl。种植面积略小于灰皮诺的是琼瑶浆，被 Cantina Tramin 酒庄用来在前身为银矿区、海拔两千公尺的高山地区陈酿数年，酿造出来的 Epokale 酒款拥有极致口感。除此之外，本产区还种植霞多丽、白皮诺、白苏维翁等葡萄品种，有些酒款采用当地较稀少的绿维特利纳（Pacherhof、

Eisacktaler Kellerei 是 2018 绝佳年份的佳作）、肯纳（2018 年的 Weingut Köfererhof 十分出色）等品种酿制。过去三十年间，红葡萄酒在上阿迪杰区日益获得重视，如 Franz Haas 酒庄 2014 年份的 Ponkler、Elena

Walch 酒庄 2017 年的 Ludwig 都是表现不俗的红葡萄酒， heart of italy

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均以黑皮诺葡萄酿成。事实上，斯查瓦（Schiava）跟勒格瑞（Lagrein）是上阿迪杰区最顶级的红葡萄品种，也是当地的特有品种。这两款品种几乎只在此区种植，其价值目前极大地被国际葡萄酒市场低估。勒格瑞在本产区种植历史已有六百多年，特别适合地势低且开阔平坦的地形以及炎热气候，而波尔扎诺市恰好是全意大利气温最高的城市之一。勒格瑞最先用于酿造玫瑰红酒，但自九十年代起，酿酒商开始实验以勒格瑞酿造红酒。少数酿酒商仍旧使用勒格瑞葡萄酿造玫瑰红酒，但是大多数是用于酿造酒体饱满、口感细致的红酒，且跟此产区多数的葡萄酒一样带有深色果实味、土味和矿物风味。今年出产的勒格瑞佳作酒款包含 Egger-Ramer Lagrein Gries Kristan 2017、 Lagrein Gries Riserva Kristan 2016 、 Griesbauerhof Lagrein Riserva 2016 、Rottensteiner Select Lagrein Gries Riserva 2016、Alois Lageder Lindenburg 2016 等。

MURI-GRIES

vintages) and kerner (Weingut Köfererhof’s 2018 is a standout). Red wines, which have risen in importance in the last three decades, include such excellent pinot noirs as Franz Haas Ponkler 2014 and Elena Walch Ludwig 2017. But the red stars of Alto Adige are the indigenous varieties schiava and lagrein, grown almost nowhere else in the world and hugely underrated internationally. Lagrein, cultivated in the region for more than six centuries, thrives on low, flat land and loves the heat in and around Bolzano, one of the hottest cities in Italy. Although it was originally used for rosés, in the 1990s, winemakers started experimenting with it for reds. A handful of producers still make a lagrein rosé, but most is used to make rich and delicate reds, with the black fruits, earthiness, and minerality common to much of the region’s wine. Some of the best lagrein released this year is Egger-Ramer Lagrein Gries Kristan 2017 and Lagrein Gries Riserva Kristan 2016, Griesbauerhof Lagrein Riserva 2016, Rottensteiner Select Lagrein Gries Riserva

ROTTENSTEINER

WINE

2016, and Alois Lageder Lindenburg 2016. With lagrein’s softness, savory notes, and complexity developing with age, Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva Taber 2011 and Untermoserhof Lagrein Riserva 2012 drink extremely well now. Schiava, also known as vernatsch, is the most widely planted red grape in Alto Adige and makes a soft, light, fruity wine, usually in a dry style. It’s versatile but often simple, although elegant examples are growing in number. Hartmann Donà, for instance, produces three distinctive schiavas from dolomite, granite, and phyllite, each exhibiting the effects of its terroir. Kellerei Girlan also has a beautiful Gschleier Alte Reben, made from vines eighty to one hundred years old, that bears a likeness to pinot noir. And Nals Margreid’s Galea is fresh and fruity, akin to an elegant rosé. The complex bouquet that is Alto Adige, a region of wide diversity and great potential, is one to watch – and definitely one to taste.

勒格瑞酿造的葡萄酒柔顺可口，随着陈酿时间越长，复杂性越高。对于 Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva Taber

2011、Untermoserhof Lagrein Riserva 2012 这两款酒而言，现在正是最佳饮用时机。斯查瓦是上阿迪杰区种植面积最广的红葡萄品种，酿造的酒款口感顺滑、酒体轻盈、带有果味，通常甜度较低，搭配性很高，不过风格一般偏向单纯质朴，而口感优雅的酒款数量越来越多。例如，Hartmann Donà 酒庄使用三款生长于白云石、大理石、千枚岩土壤的斯查瓦葡萄酿造葡萄酒，每一款的风味都呈现独特的风土。

Kellerei Girlan 酒庄出产的 Gschleier Alte Reben 滋味绝妙，原料来自具有 80 年到 100 年历史、类似黑皮诺的老葡萄藤。Nals Margreid 酒庄的 Galea 则带有相当清新的果味，口感近似优雅的玫瑰葡萄酒。上阿迪杰区出产的酒散发出芬芳香气，此处具有高度多元与发展潜力，美景宜人，美酿更动人心弦。 heart of italy

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科技成「果」

the future of fruit Long a source of some of the world’s finest fruit, Italy is now producing it with the aid of cutting-edge technology.

意大利与西班牙向来是欧洲最主要的水果蔬菜出产国， IN ITALY, which, along with Spain, dominates Europe’s fruit and vegetable 其中意大利以苹果出口为主，2018 年的苹果出产量高 production, apples lead the pack. The country processed some 2,200 million 达 22 亿吨。 tonnes of them in 2018. 意大利水果供应商 RK Growers 加工厂位于萨卢 At RK Growers in Saluzzo, barely a human soul oversees the sorting 佐市，厂房内的水果分类与包装作业运作如常，却几 and packaging of apples; instead, autonomous machines are guardians of 乎不见一丝人烟，监工作业都由自动化机 the fruit. Robots, increasingly an integral part of other industries, 器代劳。其实，其他产业的自动化生产技 are relatively new to the fruit business, but RK is taking the lead BY 术应用已日益增加，但蔬果产业引进自动 by pioneering their use in one of the most modern apple wareRACHEL DUFFELL 化的步调较慢，而 RK Growers 领先业界， houses in Europe. 打造出全欧洲最现代化的自动化苹果处理厂房。 Robots also carry out RK’s apple storage in a space-saving thirty-four该厂房有一座 34 米高的苹果储放塔，不仅节省 meter-tall tower. The rows and columns are so close together that only a 空间，同时也使用机器自动化运作。在储放塔中，横 robot can efficiently forklift them out – and do it at record speed. 排与直排传送带间的距离非常窄，只能采用机器手臂 Advanced technology permeates all aspects of the company’s produc推高，而且运行速度相当惊人。 tion facilities. Computers separate apples by weight, coloration, and category, RK Growers 的生产厂房大量运用尖端科技，涵 and cameras can inspect the internal condition of each piece of fruit, judging 盖所有生产环节。首先由电脑依据果实重量、果皮呈 unprecedented new levels of quality. The system also enables the storage of 色、种类将苹果进行分类，再由摄影机逐一检视苹果 apples for up to a year without the use of chemicals by hermetically sealing 的内部，生产品质提升，大幅超越以往。这套自动化 them in storage units that deprive them of oxygen and put them, in effect,

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CSO (3)

FEATURE

Italy ranks second in world production of kiwifruit

A high-tech processing facility

意大利是全球第二大奇异果出产国

运用顶尖科技的生产厂房

into a kind of coma. If held too long in this state, they can come close to perishing, a condition signaled by the production of alcohol. Digital “noses” in the storage areas are able to detect its presence and provide oxygen to keep the apples at their peak. It is not only digital technology that can lead to improvements in apple production: the patented Bibaum growing system of fruit-andvegetable producer Mazzoni is just one example. By growing apple trees with two leaders, or vertical axes, Mazzoni has discovered that a tree’s vigor and growth can be more easily controlled, ensuring more fruit and less canopy. This means lower production costs, better yields, and higher quality. The company is going further still by testing trees with four, six, and up to twelve axes in experiments designed to maximize efficiency. Research also goes into the creation of new apple varieties, although this involves an extended process that can take up to fifteen years to achieve one useful new cultivar. The process for other fruits can require as much as a decade of development. Mazzoni has introduced a number of scab-resistant apples, and Apofruit is seeking to identify new varieties that are firmer and have a longer shelf life to meet the needs of expanding export markets. One recent and significant new arrival is the red kiwifruit, developed by leading Italian producer Jingold. As the second-largest producer of kiwifruit after China, Italy exports them to every corner of the planet. While green and yellow kiwis are ubiquitous, the red variety is relatively rare because of notorious difficulties in growing and storing it. Jingold’s Oriental Red took ten years to develop through relentless selection. It is a significant advance: previously, the shelf life of red kiwifruit was just two months, but Jingold’s variety can keep for up to five. For its unique qualities, Oriental Red won this year’s Fruit Logistica Innovation Award. As a leader among Italy’s innovative producers, Jingold continues to see winning results from its research and development programs. Jingold Bliss, for example, is a green kiwifruit that is sweeter than Hayward, and Jingold Plus offers consumers twice the vitamin content. Europe’s fruit and vegetable industry, which has long been a model for sustainability and consumer protection, is looking to Italy to lead the way forward.

系统也能将苹果储放时间延长至一年，使用无药剂的密封技术将果实储于储存室中，让果实脱氧，如同陷入昏迷一般；但如果储放时间过久，果实可能会因过度缺氧而产出酒精。在储放区使用「电子鼻」则可侦测酒精气味，并及时补充氧气，让苹果含氧量处于巅峰状态。不仅数位科技促进苹果生产的进步，其他方面的研究也是一大功臣，如意大利蔬果供应商 Mazzoi 研发的「并棒」苗木生长专利技术 ( 一棵树有 2 个主干 )，也大幅推动产业提升。Mazzoi 发现这个生产法更能有效调控树体活力与生长状况，产量增加快且果园单位面积需要的苗木数量减少，植冠覆盖面积降低，换言之，生产成本降低，但同步提升果实的质与量。Mazzoi 目前正进一步实验 4 到 6、甚至 12 个主干的生产法，以更提升生产效率。此外，意大利多家生产商也正研究新苹果品种的开发，这个过程相当耗时耗力，甚至可能需要十五年才能成功开发出有用的新栽种品种，而其他种类的水果也需十年左右。Mazzoi 已推出一些抗痂品种，Apofruit 则致力研发更脆口、更耐储的新品种，以符合出口市场日益扩增的需求。蔬果产业近期的重大进展是意大利知名供应商

Jingold 推出的红肉奇异果品种。意大利是仅次于中国的全球第二大奇异果出产国，出口产品遍布世界各个角落。目前市场中最常见的是绿肉与黄肉奇异果，而红肉奇异果则较为罕见，因为栽种困难度高，且储存不易。

Jingold 耗费十年时间，经历无数严选过程开发出的「东方红」红肉奇异果则有重大突破，先前红肉奇异果的保鲜期大约两个月，而 Jingold 的品种则有五个月的保鲜期，它也因其独特性获得德国蔬果博览会的大奖。

Jingold 身为意大利先进的创新公司，研发成果持续获得各界肯定，例如绿肉奇异果品种 Jingold Bliss 的甜度高于 Hayward 品种，Jingold Plus 品种的维他命含量则是一般品种的两倍。欧洲的水果与蔬菜产业在永续生产与消费者保护议题一直是全球标杆，而意大利现在更引领全欧洲向前迈进。 heart of italy

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玉兰点翠

patrón à la petrus An acclaimed array of tequilas is paired with the sumptuous food of one of Hong Kong’s leading contemporary French restaurants.

享誉国际的龙舌兰酒品牌培恩的非洲、中东、亚洲及大 “PEOPLE HAVE THIS IDEA that tequila doesn’t pair well with food or that it goes 「一般人总觉得龙舌兰酒洋洲负责人 Nicolas Cox 指出： only with spicy Mexican dishes,” says Nicholas Cox, head of Patrón Tequila for Asia 不适合佐餐，或是只能搭配墨西哥的香辣料理。但是培 Pacific, Middle East, and Africa. “But the unique way that Patrón is created means that 恩的酿造方式极为独特，风味细腻精致，与法 its delicate and subtle flavors can mix well with fine-dining cuisine too.” BY 式高档餐饮极为相衬。」 To deliciously prove the point, a group of friends and industry and LUCY JENKINS 为了用味蕾一探究竟，最近有群饕客好友 media professionals recently gathered for a special gustatory event 与餐饮界、媒体界的专家一同造访香港香格里 at Restaurant Petrus, the exclusive French dining destination at Island 拉大酒店「柏翠餐厅」，体验一场独特的舌尖飨宴。 Shangri-La, Hong Kong. 这次《TK》与「柏翠餐厅」主厨 Uwe Opocensky， In partnership with TK , Petrus Executive Chef Uwe Opocensky and Jay Khan, 以及擅长以墨西哥龙舌兰酒调酒的香港顶级鸡尾酒吧 owner of COA, Hong Kong’s foremost cocktail bar specializing in agave spirits,

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TASTING NEWS

← Foie gras with white miso and plum 鹅肝佐味噌与梅子 →

BILLY HA (2)

Jay Khan

created a dinner menu of four imaginative courses, beginning with an elegant appetizer of oyster with potato and horseradish. It was followed by foie gras with white miso and plum, duck with chocolate and dumpling, and barbecued pineapple with coconut and lime. Each dish was designed to pair with one from a selection of Patrón classic expressions, including Reposado, Añejo, and Extra Añejo. The distinctive flavors of Patrón’s premium tequilas starts with the hand-harvesting of the most select 100 percent Weber blue agaves. In order to reach the ideal sugar levels needed to produce Patrón, the plants are allowed to mature for up to seven years, tended all the while by skilled workers known as jimadores . After harvesting, the fully ripe hearts of the agaves, called piñas, are transported to the Patrón distillery, Hacienda Patrón, in the small town of Atotonilco in Jalisco. There the piñas, slow-roasted in small batches for around seventy-nine hours to release the sweet agave essence, are macerated, fermented, and distilled to produce the inimitable taste of Patrón. As the evening’s special surprise at the Restaurant Petrus pairing event, Cox introduced Patrón’s Sherry Cask Aged Añejo, part of its limited-edition Cask Collection. Aged over two years in oloroso sherry casks by Master Distiller Francisco Alcaraz, it has a subtle, toasted-oak flavor melded with delicate hints of butter, pecans, and raisins.

「COA」创办人 Jay Khan 合作。Uwe 设计了一份包含四道创新餐点的晚餐菜单，首先是以牡蛎与马铃薯、山葵烹调的前菜，接下来是鹅肝佐味噌与梅子，以及鸭肉搭配巧克力与饺子，最后是烧烤凤梨配椰子与青柠。每道佳肴都搭配一款培恩经典龙舌兰酒，包括金樽、珍藏金樽及陈年珍藏金樽三款精酿。培恩顶级龙舌兰酒的独特风味源自以人工收成的 100% 纯蓝色韦伯龙舌兰。为了达到适合打造龙舌兰酒的最佳甜度，这种龙舌兰的种植时间长达七年，期间由墨西哥的龙舌兰采割者悉心照顾。收成后，成熟的龙舌兰心会被运到位于墨西哥哈利斯科州阿他托尼科小镇的培恩蒸馏及装瓶厂。在蒸馏场中，龙舌兰心经大约 79 小时慢速且少量的方式烧烤后，产生褐变焦糖化，再加以浸渍、发酵、蒸馏，才能打造出培恩龙舌兰酒无以比拟的风味。晚宴尾声，Nicolas 为宾客带来特别惊喜。他介绍一款雪莉桶熟成的陈年珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒，这属于限量版的木桶珍藏系列，由知名酿酒大师 Francisco Alcaraz 操刀，在西班牙 Oloroso 雪莉酒桶陈酿两年。这款龙舌兰酒微微透出烤橡木风味，且带有淡淡的奶油、胡桃与葡萄干香气。 heart of italy

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WINE MASTER

酒窑门人

guarding the treasures Grand Lisboa Macau’s accomplished wine director oversees a truly remarkable cellar.

PAUL LO VIEWS his demanding but satisfying role as rather like that of a

罗富华需要照料一件件珍稀又昂贵

↖

museum curator in looking after rare and priceless works of art. As custodian of nearly half a million bottles of fine wines in Grand Lisboa’s state-ofthe-art cellar, Lo has realized a lifelong career ambition. “I feel honored to have this position,” he says. “On day one of starting my hotel life, I joined the wine team and eventually became a captain and then a sommelier. When we had time off from work, the other waiters would go out and play mah-jongg or snooker, but a group of us preferred to sit in the corner studying wine books or asking questions of the master sommelier. We wanted to learn.” In charge of wines for six restaurants across the property, Lo fills a complex role: he must be constantly available to advise guests and staff about the wines in his care, and he is also responsible for monitoring the stocks in the cellar and updating his exceptionally extensive list. With a knowledge of the world’s wines that is encyclopedic, Lo makes use of both traditional and modern means to stay aware of trends. “I used to learn about new wines from trade shows and visits,” he says, “but the internet has changed things greatly since I started work. Wineries email me every day to let me know about their new products, and there is so much information online.”

的收藏品，这是一项艰巨却又极富

The portal to a treasure house of wines

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馆长来比喻自己。作为澳门新葡京酒店酒窖的总监，罗富华把看顾近五十万瓶顶级红酒视为一生志业。他说道：「我很荣幸能担此岗位，我酒店生涯的第一天就加入了红酒团队，之后成为了部长和侍酒师。每当下班放假，其他服务生总是出去打麻将、打桌球，但我们一小群人更喜欢窝在角落看书，或请教侍酒师傅一些问题。我们渴望学习。」身为酒店内六家餐厅的总监，罗富华拥有多重身份：他必须经常到餐厅为顾客或员工介绍窖里珍藏的红酒，也要每天控管它们的品质，还要更新他庞大的酒单。尽管他好比行走的红酒百科全书，但罗富华仍用兼具传统和现代的方式，务求

通往葡萄酒宝库的大门 → Paul Lo 罗富华

DAVID HARTUNG (PORTRAIT ), COURTESY OF GRAND LISBOA

成就感的工作，所以他常用博物馆

WINE MASTER

Nearly half a million bottles from around the world 窖里珍藏近五十万瓶葡萄酒

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COURTESY OF GRAND LISBOA

After thirty years in the business, Lo is impressed by wine’s ongoing evolution across the globe. “ The New World has changed dramatically,” he says, “and every year, new wineries appear. One other major development I’ve noticed is the rise of the boutique winery – people used to be drawn to big-name labels, but now they’re also interested in discovering something new and different.” The best way to learn about wines, Lo believes, is to try as many as you can. “When I was training, I was encouraged to taste everything. I began to notice the unusual ones – I remember trying yellow wine from Jura, and I thought it was amazing.” Over the years, he has developed an extraordinarily discerning palate, but, interestingly, doesn’t believe in strict rules about wine pairing with foods. He views wine as more of a subjective pleasure than a discipline governed by rigid tradition. “If you think a wine goes well with a certain food, then that’s fine,” he says. “If you like it, drink it! It’s always wise, though, to follow a couple of basic principles – spicy food, for example, will spoil the flavor of a lot of wines. But it isn’t necessary to order a different wine for every course of a meal.” Lo finds that guests at Grand Lisboa are becoming more interested in pairing wines with Chinese food. “Their tastes have changed over the years,” he notes. “Our Chinese guests used to order brandies and baijiu , but now very often they’ll have a bottle of wine on the table, and they’re happy to pay for top quality too – their wine knowledge is becoming very good.” Stocking a cellar that keeps abreast of trends and emerging wine regions is important, Lo believes, but so is keeping a range of traditional wines, as well as a select list of rare and valuable labels to excite the most demanding of connoisseurs. Among his most precious is the legendary Château Palmer 1961, a magnificent Margaux. “That year is considered by many to be the vintage of the century,” he says, “and it continues to improve.” Even after decades of dealing with numberless fine wines, Lo finds he is still in awe of the winemaker’s artistry: “I feel a little pressure when I open a really expensive bottle, because I know that I’m handling history.”

跟上最新潮流。他说：「过去，我常透过贸易展或亲自走访来认识新的红酒，但自从我担任现职以来，网路几乎改变了一切。酒厂每天都会把它们最新的产品资讯电邮给我，网上也有很多资料可查。」入行三十年，罗富华对全球红酒持续进化的过程惊叹不已。他表示：「新世界的变化实在难以捉摸，每年都会有新的酒庄出现，而精品酒庄的兴起是一件大事 – – 以前人们只对大厂牌的酒有兴趣，现在许多人也想体验一些不同的风味。」罗富华认为，认识红酒最好的方式就是亲自品赏，而且种类越多越好。他解释：「当年我还在受训时，前辈总是鼓励我什么都要试试。我开始尝到一些未曾体验过的风味，像来自汝拉 ( Jura) 的黄葡萄酒，令人难以忘怀。」几十年的业界经验让罗富华训练出敏锐的味觉，但有趣的是，他并不认为哪一种酒一定要搭配某种食物。他坚信，酒是一种主观的享受，而非被顽固传统所局限的领域。「如果你觉得哪道菜和哪支酒是绝配，不管是什么酒，只要你喜欢就好好享受吧！总有些小建议会让你的品酒体验更理想，例如带辣味的食物通常会破坏葡萄酒的风味。另外，我觉得没必要每吃一道菜就换瓶酒。」罗富华也发现，新葡京酒店近期的顾客喜欢拿葡萄酒配中国菜。他说：「客人的口味在这几年来转变许多。来自中国的客人以前常点白兰地和白酒，现在桌上总有一瓶葡萄酒，而且他们也愿意购买高档的酒类，这代表他们对酒的认识日益加深。」在自家酒窖里摆满各种新兴地区的美酒、跟上时代固然重要，但罗富华也确信来自各地的经典酒款，以及惊艳严苛品酒师们的「特选稀有酒类名单」同样不可或缺。他最珍稀的收藏是 1961 年份的 Château Palmer，是来自玛歌酒庄的史诗级名酒。「许多人认为 1961 年是这世纪最辉煌的年份，而这支酒的口感还在不断提升。」尽管罗富华几十年来阅酒无数，他仍对酿酒师的精湛手艺抱持敬畏：「每当我打开一瓶昂贵的名酒，其实都有点压力，因为我知道手中的是历史。」 heart of italy

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WINE MASTER

Chris Jackson

佳酿天成

true to terroir A California winery follows its own path to preeminence.

权威酒评 Robert Parker 早前首次公开盛赞加州葡萄酒品牌 Vérité，以及该品牌旗下受法国波尔 California label Vérité and its three Bordeaux-inspired 多启发的三款混酿葡萄酒。当时此举引起各界哗 blends, it was something of a surprise. “Vérité was com「Vérité 的酒款与加州然。Chris Jackson 表示： pletely contrary to critically lauded brands in the California 所有享誉盛名的品牌酒款截然不同，加州绝大 scene,” says Chris Jackson, son of Barbara Banke and the 多数获得大型奖项的酒款都是酒体饱 late Jess Jackson, cofounders of Jackson Family BY 满、馥郁浓厚、带有果酱味的粹取葡 Wines, owner of Vérité. “All the things that RACHEL DUFFELL 萄酒。」Chris 是已故葡萄酒业界名人 were getting major accolades were big and jammy and rich and extracted.” Jess Jackson 与 Barbara Banke 的儿子，这对夫妻共同创立 Jackson 家族酒庄，Vérité 便 Vérité, on the other hand, was a lesson in restraint 是旗下品牌之一。 and ageability, with structured tannins and acidity. “We 相较于加州其他品牌，Vérité 的酒款较为 didn’t care,” says Jackson. “We kept doing what we did 内敛，展现陈年潜力、极富层次的单宁与酸味。 because we thought the wines were the best reflection of 「我们不受外界影响，持续专注于自身 the incredible terroir and climates that we owned.” And, he Chris 说：独特的酿造方式。我们相信葡萄酒风味最能呈 says, when Parker advocated for them, “that was amaz现出此地极为上乘的风土及气候条件。」在获悉 ing, because we didn’t ‘Parkerize’ our wines. It showed he

WHEN ROBERT PARKER first came out in support of

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Vérité’s grapes come from select Sonoma County crus. Vérité选用的葡萄来自索诺玛县的葡萄园

WINE MASTER

understood the style and the principle of the mission.” Staying true to its beliefs has done the winery well. Vérité’s three blends, La Muse, La Joie, and Le Désir, which are dominated respectively by merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc, are made by renowned vigneron Pierre Seillan from the finest grapes selected from more than fifty Sonoma County micro-crus. The wines have gone on to reap more 100-point scores from various critics than there have been vintages to date. Vérité is just one of the many respected brands in the Jackson Family Wines collection. Cardinale, the label under which winemaker Christopher Carpenter produces a limitedproduction cabernet sauvignon from superior quality vineyards in Napa Valley, is another that has gained a place among California’s most prestigious wineries. “I don’t make wine that I’m not proud to share on the dinner table anywhere in the world,” says Jackson. “If the wine’s not good, we don’t bottle it.” He’s currently looking to expand his stable, with an eye on coolclimate expressions of pinot noir and also on often-underrated English sparkling wines, which, he says, can be “incredible” when done right. A selection of Jackson Family Wines brands, from Yangarra to Kendall-Jackson, is available in Hong Kong, but Vérité and Cardinale are the two that Jackson feels are particularly appropriate for the market. “People in Hong Kong have a level of understanding of wine that is atypically good for the market,” he says. “When I talk about Cardinale and Vérité, I view them as very sophisticated wines. Vérité is an exercise in blending – the complexity, the integration, and the structure are truly iconic. And Cardinale is the best reflection of Napa holistically for cabernet sauvignon, given the vintage.” In September, Jackson launched the 2016 vintages of Cardinale and the three Vérité blends, all of which have been rated between 97 and 100 points by wine critic Lisa PerrottiBrown, master of wine and editor in chief of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate .

「因为我们并没有针 Robert Parker 盛赞他们的酒款时，Chris 感到非常惊喜。他补充：对 Robert Parker 的个人喜好打造任何酒款，因此他的赞赏代表了他颇为理解这些酒款的风格与酿造原则。」

Vérité 酒庄忠实呈现自家酿造哲学，也因而大放异彩。旗下的三款葡萄酒包括 La Muse、La Joie 和 Le Desir，主要采用的葡萄品种分别为梅洛、赤霞珠和品丽珠，均出自知名酿酒师 Pierre Seillan 之手。Pierre 从加州索诺玛县超过 50 个小型葡萄园中精挑细选出最顶级的葡萄来酿制。这些酒款持续获得各家酒评的满分好评，次数之多居于目前所有年份酒之首。

Vérité 仅是 Jackson 家族酒庄旗下的其中一个知名品牌。酒庄另一个品牌 Cardinale 由酿酒师 Christopher Carpenter 操刀，采用来自纳帕郡最高品质葡萄园的葡萄，生产限量的赤霞珠酿造酒，在加州顶级葡萄酒业中也牢牢地占有一席之地。「我只酿制那些让我于全球范围内都能骄傲地展现在餐桌上的酒。只要 Chris 说：酒的品质不够好，我们就不会装瓶。」他目前正在扩展产品线，目标锁定凉爽气候产区的黑皮诺葡萄酒，以及常受忽视的英式气泡酒。他认为，只要搭配得好，英式气泡酒也能有绝妙滋味。

Jackson 家族酒庄旗下琳琅满目的品牌，从 Yangarra 到 Kendall-Jackson 等，在「香香港皆有销售，但是 Chris 认为 Vérité 与 Cardinale 的酒款最适合香港市场。他解释：港人对于葡萄酒普遍有一定程度的认识，这是这个市场的优势。我觉得 Cardinale 与

Vérité 这两个品牌的风味十分细致复杂，Vérité 展现混酿的工艺，无论在复杂度、交融、结构的表现都无懈可击，而 Cardinale 年份酒则是以赤霞珠酿制，忠实呈现纳帕郡整体风土。」今年九月，Chris 发表 Cardinale 的 2016 年份酒，以及三款 Vérité 的混酿葡萄酒，皆获得知名葡萄酒专家兼品酒权威刊物《Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate》主编 Lisa

Perrotti-Brown 97 分至满分的高评比。 heart of italy

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Casa Don Alfonso 当奥丰素1890意式料理 Italian 3/F, Grand Lisboa, Av. De Lisboa, Macau 澳门葡京路新葡京酒店三楼 q +853 8803 7722 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 5

Castellana Piedmont Cuisine 10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾开平道1号Cubus 10楼 q +852 3188 5028 Lunch: 11:45-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 (Closed on Sundays) 5

COA Cocktail bar Shop A, LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环善庆街6-10号华善楼地下 q +852 2813 5787 Tue-Sat: 18:00-01:00 Sun: 17:00-01:00 5

ÉPURE Contemporary French Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀海港城海洋中心4楼403 q +852 3185 8338 Lunch: 12:00–14:30 Dinner: 18:30–22:30 A Business attire or elegant casual - no shorts or sandals 5

Flower Drum 锋膳 Innovative Cantonese 2B, Linway Court, 69-71 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔石水渠街69-71号年威阁2楼B号铺 q +852 2267 0288 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-23:30 5

Italian 1031, 1/F, Galaxy Macau, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」1楼，1031 q +853 8886 2169 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Bar: 17:00-00:00 (Closed on Wednesdays) A Ladies: Smart casual, no slippers, caps or hats Gents: Smart casual, no slippers or open shoes (sandals), caps or hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts 5

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Aji 雅吉 Nikkei Ground floor mezzanine, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2308 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 5

A Smart casual

Kinship New World Cuisine 3/F, 2 Shelley Street, LL Tower, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环些利街2-4号3楼 q +852 2520 0899 Bar: from 01:00 Mon-Fri: Dinner: 18:00-23:30 Sat-Sun: Brunch: 11:30-16:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:30 5

DAVID HARTUNG

8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Bacon Wrapped Dates with linguica, manchego & mustard 培根裹椰枣

Duck & Waffle

Ming Court 明阁

Vida Rica Bar 御苑酒廊

British Shop 1081, Podium Level I, ifc mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环港景街1号国际金融中心1楼1081号 q +852 2267 6338 Sun-Thurs: 08:00-00:00 Fri-Sat: 08:00-01:00

Cantonese 6/F, Cordis, Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港旺角上海街555号康得思酒店6楼 q +852 3552 3028 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:00-14:30 Sat: 11:00-15:00 Sun: 10:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Restaurant Petrus 珀翠餐厅 French Level 56, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中区法院道太古广场港岛香格里拉大酒店56楼 q +852 2820 8590 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-23:00 A Smart casual – Closed-toe shoes, shirt with sleeves and appropriate trousers for gentlemen. Torn/ripped jeans, sports shoes, tracksuits and t-shirts are not allowed.

Man Ho Chinese Restaurant 万豪中菜厅 Cantonese 3/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港金钟道 88 号太古广场香港JW万豪酒店3楼 q +852 2810 8366 Lunch: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 5

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Bar 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, n.°945, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新口岸新填海区孙逸仙大马路 945 号澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8928 Mon-Thu: 17:00-Midnight Fri: 17:00-01:00 Sat: 15:00-01:00 Sun: 15:00-Midnight Afternoon Tea: Sat-Sun: 15:00-18:00 Happy Hour: 17:00-20:00

yè shanghai 夜上海 Shanghai cuisine 6/F, Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀广东道3号马可勃罗香港酒店6楼 q +852 2376 3322 Lunch: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 5

DAVID HARTUNG

DESSERT

From Don Alfonso 1890, near Italy’s scenic Amalfi Coast, comes the perfect dessert for a warm summer’s day: fresh fruit naïf with cold lemon sauce. Starring famed “Don Alfonso” lemons grown organically by Chef Alfonso Iaccarino, this light finale, made with no cream or butter, features a refreshing medley of jelly, semifreddo, and ripe seasonal fruits.

DAVID HARTUNG

意大利的阿玛菲海岸风景如画，附近「当奥丰素1980」餐厅的这道新鲜水果和冷柠檬酱甜点是和暖夏日的完美配搭。整道甜点都没有使用任何奶油或黄油，只选用由大厨 Alfonso Iaccarino以有机方法种植的著名「当奥丰素」柠檬，并由果冻、意式冰糕和当季水果组成，口感清新轻盈。

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