TK46 Pride of Jalisco by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 46

P R I D E

K I T C H E N O F

J A L I S C O

GUADALAJARA

Home Free 故乡之味 MEXICO

The Many Faces of Jalisco 文化“墨”迹 JALISCO

Eight-Minute Perfection 缔造完美

Enjoy responsibly

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Created to be shared

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STARTER

Chef Tomás Bermudez of Guadalajara’s La Docena Oyster Bar & Grill lets the products speak for themselves in this super fresh and simple starter of scallops and crab served with a light dressing of salt, pepper, lime juice, and olive oil and garnished with cherry tomatoes, watermelon radish, and seasonal herbs.

DAVID HARTUNG

瓜达拉哈拉La Docena的餐厅主厨Tomás Bermudez擅长展现食材的原本风味。他这道前菜仅以少量的盐、胡椒、青柠汁和橄榄油为新鲜扇贝和螃蟹调味，并饰以樱桃番茄、西瓜萝卜和时令香草，简单却又鲜味十足。

TK | pride of jalisco

T A S T I N G 46

P R I D E

K I T C H E N O F

J A L I S C O

Tasting Kitchen (TK ) is a celebration of inspiring gourmet adventures, eloquent artistic expressions, and engaging cultural encounters. Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活杂志品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

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Rob Kariakin, head mixologist of Hong Kong’s Los Sotano, an underground Mexican speakeasy, creates a drink named for a traditional Zapotec toast. His Stigibeu cocktail is garnished with sal de gusano, or worm salt, and combines Del Maguey Vida mezcal, Ancho Reyes chili liqueur, pineapple tepache, cinnamon spice syrup, and Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters. 香港地下酒吧Los Sotano的首席调酒师Rob Kariakin创作的这杯调酒以萨波特克人敬酒时会说的”Stigibeu”为名。他混合Del Maguey Vida梅斯卡尔酒、Ancho Reyes辣椒利口酒、凤梨特帕切酒、肉桂糖浆及Xocolati Mole苦酒，再以虫盐抹杯装点。 ©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2020

Photography by David Hartung

TK | pride of jalisco

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen . In recent months, most travel experiences have been by necessity vicarious, and in this issue, Pride of Jalisco , we’re honored to transport our readers to one of the world’s most unforgettable destinations, the state of Jalisco on the western coast of Mexico. Jalisco is famous for its mariachi, its murals, its rodeos, and its tequila, and TK finds time for all of these and more. We start by visiting four local artists with Guadalajara connections: one who creates monumental installations using seemingly mundane objects, a ceramist whose playful works embody his values, a designer who has imported Thai streetstall ambiance to Mexico, and a stone artist who uses volcanic glass to fashion elegant vessels for enjoying tequila. Next comes a day with one of Guadalajara’s acclaimed young chefs, who shares with us the importance of inquietud , a kind of driving restlessness that keeps one searching for more, and explains how this energy animates his ongoing culinary explorations. Then it’s time for a competition and celebration all in one at Hacienda Patrón. Twenty-one supremely talented bartenders from around the world vie for the title of 2020 Patrón Perfectionist and also bond as a community by sharing their personal stories and experiences. Finally, we embark on a grand tour of Guadalajara to appreciate its murals and other public art, learn the craft of the jimadors working in the emblematic agave fields, and savor some cold beer and fresh oysters in the city’s historic cantinas and whimsical restaurants. By the end, you’ll have gotten a taste of the true meaning of tapatío – the people and culture of Guadalajara – and you’ll know why Mexicans call it their Perla de Occidente, or Pearl of the West. 欢迎来到 Tasting Kitchen。这几个月来，人们大多因形势所迫，搁置出游计划。我们很荣幸能以本期《Pride of Jalisco》带领读者前往令人流连忘返的墨西哥哈利斯科州，此地的街头乐队、壁画、牛仔竞技及龙舌兰酒皆颇负盛名，TK 将一一着墨这些面向。我们首先带大家造访四位瓜达拉哈拉的艺术家：一位装置艺术家运用看似平凡无奇的素材创造纪念装置；一位陶艺家以作品体现玩心；一位设计师将泰式小吃摊的氛围导入墨西哥；还有一位石匠以火山岩打造时尚优雅的龙舌兰专属酒杯。我们更与瓜达拉哈拉的知名青年主厨共度一日，他与我们分享 “ 躁动（inquietud）” 的重要性，阐述这种促人不停寻求新知的能量在他精进厨艺的旅途中，如何赋予探索过程更加丰富的生命力。接下来我们在培恩庄园参与竞赛及欢庆时刻，21 位才华洋溢的调酒师从世界各地前来争夺 2020 年培恩专业调酒师大赛的桂冠，也借此齐聚一堂，分享各自的人生故事与经历。最后我们于瓜达拉哈拉展开一趟盛大的旅程，沿途欣赏壁画与公共艺术，并深入龙舌兰田，向农人学习种植龙舌兰的技艺，也将前往市区历史悠久的小酒馆及稀奇古怪的餐厅，畅饮沁凉啤酒、大啖新鲜生蚝。细味这期，您将意会到瓜达拉哈拉人情与 tapatío 文化的真正意涵，也能深切了解为何墨西哥人都称瓜达拉哈拉为他们的 “ 西方明珠 ”。

MARK HAMMONS

TK | pride of jalisco

Maggie T Sutrov

Landscapes and Botanicals of Hawaii and Beyond To have a free postcard of this painting sent to you, visit www.maggiesutrov.com

CONTENTS

4 Starter

12 Body of Work • 14 Humanizing Clay • 18 Thai It Up 20 Sipping from Obsidian • 22 Timeless Appeal • 24 Artistic Dialogue 25 Lacking Background • 26 Companionable Cuisine

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20 108 102

20 62

24 66

118 38 52 16

58 26

116

CONTENTS

112 Dessert 27 Garden of Delights • 28 Champagne Tastes • 32 Home Free • 40 Eignt-Minute Perfection 52 The Many Faces of Jalisco • 76 Hometown Holidays • 90 Valiant Vintage • 92 Double Magic 96 Of Time and Taste • 98 Discovering a New World • 100 Sparklingly British • 104 Living the Life

H O L I D A Y S

H O M E T O W N

14 76

H O M20 62E T O W N

32 108 102 116

H O L I D A Y S

H O M E T O W N

H O L I 24 D A Y S 66

118 38 92

100

104 58 pride of jalisco

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Searching with the Fingers, 2019

艺术畅想

body of work A multidisciplinary artist transforms the materials of her surroundings – from foods to found objects – into works that express how her body inhabits space.

从胭脂虫和芭乐叶提炼出来的染料、海绵浸泡 DYES MADE FROM COCHINEAL AND GUAVA LEAVES, canvases 于酪梨汁后以玉米饼机压铸而成的画布都是 crafted from sponges soaked in avocado juice and squashed in a tortilla press, inspirational walks through bodega-lined streets in New York Carmen Argote 创作的一部分。她走访纽约街头的杂货店和墨西哥多彩的农产品市场，从而获得 and colorful produce markets in Mexico. 源源不绝的灵感。 Carmen Argote, whether working in residency or creBY ating pieces for exhibition, is an artistic alchemist who takes Carmen 无论是在家工作或为展 KATE NICHOLSON 览创作时，都像一位点石成金的炼金 seemingly mundane elements from her environment and 术师，她将生活中看似无趣的元素巧 crafts them into insightful paintings and monumental instal手制成意义深远的画作和装置艺术作品。这位艺 lation pieces. The Los Angeles-based, Guadalajara-born artist’s first 术家生于瓜达拉哈拉、定居于洛杉矶，她的第一 solo museum exhibition, As Above, So Below , was curated by Margot

Norton and opened in late 2019 at the New Museum in New York City. The event, says Argote, “brings forward a conversation between all the works that show my body as my studio.”

TK | PRIDE OF JALISCO

场博物馆个展《如其在上，如其在下》由 Margot Norton 策展，在 2019 年末于纽约新当代艺术博物馆开幕。她表示：“ 我把自身躯体描绘成工作

FOOD & ART

Manéjese Con Cuidado, 2019

COURTESY THE ARTIST AND INSTITUTO DE VISIÓN, BOGOTÁ (2)

Walking a city or location where she intends to produce a work of art is an integral part of her creative process. Along the way, Argote often makes notes by means of voice memos or photographs. “These visual sketches are the moments in which I construct a direction for the work,” she explains, “and once I have that, the aesthetics and materials come more into focus.” Rather than working in oils or watercolors, Argote fabricates her works from items that impress her along her urban peregrinations – avocados, oranges, lemon juice, pine needles, coffee, iron and other metals, commercial protein bars. This opportunistic approach made effective use of fruits and natural dyes in works created during two artist residencies in Guadalajara, Mexico, including one in the former home and studio of noted Mexican muralist José Clemente Orozco. Among the works created there was Patio con Cítricos , inspired by a walk through Mercado de Abastos, the city’s main produce market, where she came across an intriguing fruit-sorting machine. The way it traveled above and below ground reminded her of the “movement of modern architecture in the house and my daily ritual of going up the stairs to the studio.” In a performance work called Man éjese Con Cuidado , Argote personally carried more than a ton of oranges she’d bought at the market to the roof of the third-floor studio. During an open gallery event, guests were invited to participate as the oranges were rolled back down the stairs between their feet and onto the artwork on paper that she had laid out on the floor below. The next day, the oranges were given away to passersby. “The energy of the work,” she says, “created a conversation that built on the complexity of the idea behind the navigations of fruit production, private property, labor, purchasing power, food distribution, and class.” In Argote’s work, food serves as a means of deciphering the world around her at the moment of creation rather than as a central subject: “It’s always about materials and their context, not the idea of food itself. All the stuff of our lives can also come into the process of thinking and making in order to convey ideas, ideas about economic inequity and systems, class and aesthetics, deconstructing notions of prescribed success, and building different ones.”

“Carmen Argote: As Above, So Below,” 2019

室空间，这场展览让我所有这类作品有互相对话的机会。”

Carmen 的创作过程少不了走访要创作时身处的城市或地点，途中她会以录音或拍照作为记录方式。她解释道：“ 我会运用这些视觉草稿塑造出作品的方向，大方向形成后，美学和素材就应运而生。”Carmen 不以油彩或水彩创作，而是运用游历时最令她印象深刻的元素，如酪梨、柳橙、柠檬汁、松针、咖啡、钢铁和其他金属，还有广告中的能量棒。她的新颖创作大量运用水果和自然染料，这类作品多诞生于她两间位于墨西哥瓜达拉哈拉的住所，其中一间曾是知名壁画家 José Clemente Orozco 的住处兼工作室。一幅名为《柑橘露台》的作品就在此创作，灵感来自当地最大的农产品市场。Carmen 在市场看到一台令她目不转睛的水果分类机，机器上下移动的模样令她想起了 “ 现代建筑于房屋内的流动，还有她每天爬上楼梯走进工作室的例行活动 ”。在一场名为《小心驾驶》的表演艺术中，

Carmen 从市场买回大量柳橙，扛到工作室三楼的屋顶，在开放展览活动中邀请群众参加，柳橙在众人脚边滚下楼梯，滚到她铺于楼下地板的画作上。活动后隔天，Carmen 将柳橙分送给路人。她说：“ 这件作品创造的对话建立在水果生产运输、私有财产、劳工、购买力、食物分配和阶级观念交织的复杂概念上。” 在 Carmen 的作品中，食物不是核心主题，而是用以解读她创作当下周遭世界的一种方式。她表示：“ 重点不是食物本身，而是素材和其脉络。我们生活中所有东西都可以成为思考与创作的媒介，借此表现不同想法，例如关于经济不平等与体制、阶级与美学、解构既定成功概念并重塑新观念的想法等等。” pride of jalisco

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CERAMICS

命运旅“陶”

HUMANIZING CLAY Mamie Chen meets an accomplished Mexican ceramist whose playful works express his positive values.

一切皆是命運的安排。Rodo Padilla 從小就在 RODO PADILLA JUST COULDN’T escape destiny. Despite having 父亲的陶器工作室长大，却从未想过要追随父 grown up around his father’s ceramics workshop, he had never dreamed 亲的步伐。他以工业工程师的身份毕业后，原 of following in his footsteps. After graduating with a degree in industrial 先想当背包客去环游世界，后来 engineering, he had intended to go backpacking around the 却获颁奖学金，远赴日本修习陶 world but ended up winning a scholarship to study ceramic BY 艺工程。后来当他决定到意大利 engineering in Japan. Later, after having decided to pursue MAMIE CHEN 学习西方视角的陶艺工程时，申 further studies in Italy for a Western perspective on ceramic • 请程序上的一点状况让他阴错阳 engineering, an error on his application saw him enrolled in a PHOTOGRAPHY BY 差地注册了一门雕塑课。 sculpture class. DAVID HARTUNG 他笑称：“ 我在日本时发现自 “In Japan, I discovered that I really liked ceramics. In Italy, I 己真的很喜欢陶器，在意大利时则爱上了雕塑， fell in love with sculpture,” he laughs. “And that is why I am here today.” 所以我现在才在这里。“ By combining and applying the skills and techniques he learned in Rodo 善于结合他在墨西哥、日本和意大 Mexico, Japan, and Italy, Padilla is, today, one of Mexico’s most recognized

artisan-sculpturists working in high-temperature ceramics – a four-time recipient of the National Ceramic Award’s first place prize for sculpture. And “here” refers to his workshop in Tlaquepaque, where he and his team of artisans produce the three lines of stoneware figures, and the occasional bronze sculptures, for which he is so well known.

TK | pride of jalisco

利习得的各式技巧，如今他是墨西哥高温陶艺雕塑家的第一把交椅，也曾四度获颁全国陶艺大奖的雕刻组冠军。他在位于特拉克帕克的工作室与工匠团队生产三种类别的炻器雕像，有时也会做他赖以闻名的铜制雕像。

Tell us about your “Gorditos” line of fatty figurines. They are adorable!

跟我们谈谈您的 ” 胖人像 ”，那些作品真的很可

It was my intention to start with an already digested geometric or organic shape – like a sphere or a cone, or an apple or a bowling pin – and humanize it as a figure. The figures represent the positive character of Mexicans: very hardworking and humble, always cheerful and kind. I didn’t actually intend to make “fat” characters. They take the volume of the original shape. But people do look at them as fatty guys, and they like it. They say, “Oh, that looks just like my father!”

爱！我原先是想将常见的几何或有机形状拟人化，像是把球形、锥形、苹果或保龄球瓶做成人形。那些人像带出了墨西哥人努力、谦卑、永远都很快乐又善良的正向特质。我原先没有刻意要做 ” 胖胖的 ” 人像，但工匠制作时跟了原来的体积。很多人看到它们都觉得胖胖的很讨喜，还说这长得好像我爸！

And what about your contemporary line of children, called “De los Niños es el Reino de los Cielos” or “The Kingdom of Heaven Belongs to the Children”? I wanted to express the human values of love, respect, kindness, and humility. In these contemporary times, I can see that these values are disappearing and that people are very lost. In these sculptures, I am showing that when we were children, we had those values in our hearts. As adults, we can recover those values by becoming children again, inside. This large sculpture will be cast in bronze and stand in Tlaquepaque. It will be called “Necessary Balance.” The child will be carrying a lot of hens on this pole across his shoulders while he is balancing on a unicycle. I wanted to express happiness and confidence in the child’s expression. We need to be balanced in life, with the hearts of children and the mature minds of adults.

TK | pride of jalisco

那您近期的作品 ” 天堂国度归于孩童 ” 代表了什么意义？我想表现出人类的爱、尊重、善良和谦卑，这些特质在现代逐渐消退，人们也因此而迷失。我运用这些雕像呈现的意念是：我们小时候本身就拥有这些特质，长大后也可以透过内心的童真找回它们。这座名为 ” 平衡之必要 ” 的巨型雕像镀铜后将伫立于特拉克帕克，这小孩用扁担一肩挑起很多母鸡，还要在单轮车上平衡重心，我想用这小孩的模样表现出快乐和自信的感觉。我们在人生中都得在保有赤子之心与成熟的心智之间取得平衡。

← This full-size plaster model of "Necessary Balance" will soon be cast in bronze and then displayed in Tlaquepaque. 石膏巨型雕像”平衡之必要”镀铜后将伫立于特拉克帕克。

What are the most memorable reactions you have received from people? There was a couple who visited a gallery in Miami. They said that they were going to get a divorce. But after seeing our pieces and talking about them, they felt reconnected. For me, it was unbelievable! Unprecedented. They have about 30 pieces from the “De los Niños es el Reino de los Cielos” collection in their house now. For the Gorditos, a lady once thanked me during a show. She said, “This is the first time my son has smiled in two years since he had a bad breakup with his girlfriend. I’m so happy.” This is why I believe my role as an artist is to express something that can help people.

人们对您作品的反应中，有哪些最令您难忘？有一对去迈阿密艺廊看展的夫妻原先要离婚了，但看完展览后开始讨论我们的作品，竟因此重燃爱火。我觉得这真的很不可思议，从来没发生过！他们现在有三十件左右的 ” 天堂国度归于孩童 ” 系列作品摆在家里。还有一次是关于 ” 胖人像 ” 的，有位女士在展览中向我致谢，她说：“ 这是我儿子在两年前跟女朋友分手后的第一次微笑，我好高兴。“ 我因此相信身为艺术家，我的使命就是传达能够帮助人们的信息。

Do you have any favorite pieces? There were special moments and so many pieces through the years that I would love to keep at home, but sometimes they have to leave.

您有最喜欢的作品吗？我经历过不少精彩的时刻，也有很多想自己留存的作品，但有时它们还是得离我而去。 pride of jalisco

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DESIGN

质感重构

thai it up Innovative interior design brings Bangkok’s street-stall ambience to Guadalajara diners.

瓜达拉哈拉 Atomic 餐厅的雾面玻璃窗、繁茂叶丛和层叠的平实萤光灯让客人仿佛置身曼谷喧闹的美食大街。Atomic 于 2019 年开幕，以高品质的泰国与亚洲当代料理为这座城市的美食界注入一股活力，主厨 Paul Bentley 生于澳洲，于世界各地习得技艺后定居于墨西哥，餐厅名 Atomic 也充分反映了他多元的背景。

fluorescent lighting instantly transport guests who enter Atomic to the setting of a typically bustling food street in Thailand’s capital city. The restaurant, which opened in Guadalajara in 2019, was conceived to enhance the city’s vibrant dining scene with quality contemporary Thai and Asian food. Its name aptly represents the kind of dynamic fusion cuisine delivered by Chef Paul Bentley, who is Australian-born, globally trained, and Mexico-based. As the brainchild of Guadalajara-based Ana Karen and Agustín Del Río, Atomic is yet another daring addition to their expanding roster of restaurant and hotel properties that are making a mark in the Mexican hospitality sector under parent company Grupo Resonante. With years of experience as creative culinary entrepreneurs, the pair knew exactly what they wanted when they came up with the idea for Atomic: a casual urban restaurant and bar that would have all the friendly energy of a busy Thai food stall. To help them realize the concept, they called on Lázaro, an architecture and interior design firm based in Mexico City. According to Lázaro architect Jorge González Yáñez, he relished the challenge “because the BY experience that our clients have in how a restaurant should operKATE NICHOLSON ate helped us in designing, as did the trust they put in our studio. They let us experiment with less conservative materials and ideas.” The clients informed Lázaro about their basic requirements for the restaurant space and kitchen, but the firm was given complete control over the architectural and interior design aspects. The aim was to imaginatively paraphrase Bangkok’s singular street-food aesthetic. “With this in mind,” says Yáñez, “we wanted to reference, but not thematize, a tropical city by means of plants, misted windows, and lighting reminiscent of the fluorescent tubes used in food stalls.” With the restrictions placed on the space because of its location on the ground floor of an apartment building in the city’s financial district, the team came up with the concept of encasing the restaurant in a lightweight self-supporting steel framework that holds panels of frosted glass. Tropical plants placed between the backlit panels are seen only as silhouettes from inside. The greenhouse-like structure continues into the restaurant as a feature that serves as striking backdrop to the centrally positioned bar. Of the

TK | pride of jalisco

Atomic 是 Ana Karen 和 Agustín Del Río 的又一力作，这对搭档定居于瓜达拉哈拉，他们为母公司 Grupo Resonante 创立了一系列餐厅与酒店品牌，在墨西哥的餐旅界具一定影响力。这两位餐饮创业家依凭多年经验，塑造出他们欲以 Atomic 呈现的概念：一间融合了泰式小吃摊的亲切活力，又不拘小节的都市餐酒馆。两位创业家找来墨西哥城的建筑兼室内设计公司 Lázaro 操刀，协助打造出他们的想法。建筑师 Jorge

González Yáñez 很珍视这项挑战：“ 客户对于餐厅运作模式的经验让我们在设计上如虎添翼，而且他们很信任我们，让我们运用较前卫的素材及想法去大胆实验。” 客户告知 Lázaro 对于餐厅空间和厨房的基本要求后，便放手让他们全权进行建筑与室内的设计。整体的设计方向是重新创造出曼谷的街头小吃美学，Jorge 表示：“ 我们并不是要忠实呈现曼谷的样貌，而是运用植物和雾气缭绕的窗，以及仿制小吃摊使用的萤光灯，打造出一座热带城市的风貌。” 餐厅坐落于金融区一座大厦的一楼，空间因而受限，设计团队便运用轻型自承式钢架支撑嵌了雾面玻璃的壁板，塑造出被四面环绕的餐厅空间。背光壁板之间摆放了热带植物，从内部仅能见其剪影，餐厅还有壮观的背幕及置于中央的吧台，整体空间皆以这种温室般的结构为特色。Jorge

IMAGES COURTESY LÁZARO (3)

STEAMED-UP WINDOWS, lush foliage, and the replicated glare of cheap

← Guests sit on contemporary metal furniture locally crafted by Los Patrones. 餐厅选用Los Patrones在当地制作的当代金属餐桌椅。 ↓ The design showcases earthy materials like compacted concrete and volcanic stone. 设计融合了如混凝土和火山岩的土质材料。

The centrally positioned bar is surrounded by greenhouselike glass curtains. 餐厅中央的吧台被仿温室结构的背光壁板包围。

complex design process, Yáñez remarks, “We made a one-to-one scale model in our office in Mexico City so we could see the effects generated between the textured glass, the vegetation, and the lighting.” The restaurant features design elements formed from earthy materials, including the compacted-concrete bar, locally sourced volcanic stone floor, and metal furniture by Los Patrones, that complement the homogeneous, nature-inspired color palette. The unique atmospheric radiance that permeates the interior is the product of a creative collaboration between Lázaro and Mexico City-based Luca Salas, an award-winning freelance lighting designer. Fixtures are embedded in the architectural features, with colors and illumination effects regulated by automated controls. “The lighting design,” notes Yáñez, “is the key to the quality of the space.”

谈及如此复杂的设计时说道：“ 我们在墨西哥城的公司做了一比一的模型，借以观察雾面玻璃、植物和灯光所构成的效果。”

Atomic 餐厅的混凝土吧台、以当地火山岩制成的地板和 Los Patrones 的金属餐桌椅均散发着质朴感，金属色泽也平衡了取材于大自然的单一色调。Lázaro 更与获奖无数的墨西哥城独立灯光设计师 Luca

Salas 合作，让内部空间的光线映出独特氛围，灯具嵌于建筑框架上，运用自动控制调节色泽与照明效果。Jorge 表明：“ 灯光设计是这空间质感呈现的关键。” pride of jalisco

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曜石金樽

sipping from obsidian Elegant drinking vessels fashioned from Mexican volcanic glass provide the ultimate tequila experience.

INSPIRED LIVING

← Frida Escobedo holds the trio of obsidian drinking vessels she designed for tequila brand Maestro Dobel Limited Edition. Frida Escobedo手持她为龙舌兰酒制造商 Maestro Dobel设计的三个黑曜石碗杯。

DORIAN ULISES LÓPEZ MACÍAS (3)

A LUSTROUS TRIO of translucent bowls nestling

one within another is the perfect accoutrement for savoring the iconic nectar of Jalisco, blue agave tequila. The alluring limited edition of thirty sets is a collaborative project between Frida Escobedo, an award-winning Mexican architect and designer, and Maestro Dobel, the eleventh-generation producers of a line of ultra-premium tequilas. With the goal of inspiring tequila lovers to enjoy its offerings in a uniquely opulent way, Maestro Dobel gave free rein to Escobedo. “We wanted to reflect a powerful fusion of the artisanal and the contemporary,” she says, “and it was vital that the materials and design were firmly rooted in Mexico.” To accomplish her objectives, she teamed up with Juan Fraga, a Mexico City stonemason with more than forty years’ experience. Taking their cue from the rich volcanic soils Escobedo worked with stone artist Juan Fraga to create the vessels. in which the Blue Weber agave used by Maestro Frida与石匠Juan Fraga携手创造一系列碗杯。 Dobel is cultivated, Fraga and Escobedo traveled eight hours from the capital to Sierra Norte de Guadalajara. They were on the hunt for rare 要品尝最经典的蓝龙舌兰，绝不能缺少的完美配备就是这三个半透明碗 specimens of the volcanic glass called obsid杯。它们是由屡获奖项肯定的墨西哥建筑师兼设计师 Frida Escobedo 与 ian, including the rainbow variety that reveals a 第十一代精酿龙舌兰酒制造商 Maestro Dobel 联合推出的产品，仅限量 surprising range of layered hues. Selected pieces 三十组。 were carefully quarried and brought back to Fraga’s 为了让龙舌兰爱好者拥有最独特的奢华享受，Maestro Dobel 让 studio, where he spent three days precisely handFrida 完全自由发挥。Frida 说道：“ 我们想展现现代感与匠人手工风格 carving prototype vessels. 的强力结合。对我来说，重点是取材与设计都必须源于墨西哥。” 为了 The outer bowl, made of golden obsid达到这个标准，她决定与一位拥有超过四十年经验的墨西哥老石匠 Juan ian, was designed for serving the world’s first Fraga 合作。 Cristalino tequila, Maestro Dobel Diamante. The Juan 跟 Frida 从首都花了八小时才抵达瓜达拉哈拉的 Sierra Norte， central bowl’s translucent grey obsidian partners 该地肥沃的火山土就是当初 Maestro Dobel 培植蓝色龙舌兰的关键。他们 beautifully with the sultry notes of Maestro Dobel 在那里找寻一种名为黑曜石的罕见火山玻璃，其中甚至有一彩虹品种，色 Humito, the first-ever smoked silver tequila. And 调带有惊人的层次。经过精挑细选的矿石被小心翼翼地运回 for the smallest cup, Escobedo paired Juan 的工作室，然后他花上三天的时间，亲手雕刻出容器原型。 a rare red obsidian with the rich amber BY 最外层的黄金黑曜石碗杯是为了 Cristalino 陈年龙舌兰 tones of Maestro Dobel Añejo. KATE NICHOLSON 的先驱 Maestro Dobel Diamante 所设计，中层的灰色半透 The bowls’ shape echoes that of 明黑曜石碗杯完美搭配史上第一种烟熏银龙舌兰酒 Maestro the jícara, a cup made from the fruit of Dobel Humito 的狂野独特。Frida 更以稀有的红黑曜石制成最小的碗杯， the calabash tree and traditionally used in Mexico for drinking tequila. “I also wanted to emulate a deeper sense of connection by way of the mythical circle,” Escobedo explains, “the ultimate symbol of wholeness and unity.”

用以搭配 Maestro Dobel Añejo 浓郁的琥珀色调。这些碗杯的形状概念来自 Jicara ──在墨西哥用来饮用龙舌兰酒的传统蒲瓜制酒杯，Frida 解释道：“ 它最能代表完整及团结，我也想透过圆圈的联想来唤起更深度的共鸣。” pride of jalisco

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SHANG XIA

”Sunlight” tin dinnerware

“Lan Yue” woven leather handbag

“曦光”系列锡制餐盘

“揽月”系列皮质包袋

如其在上，如其在下

timeless appeal Shang Xia takes inspiration from age-old Chinese traditions of fine craftsmanship to create contemporary designs for the art of graceful living.

IT WAS IN 2009 that internationally renowned designer Jiang Qiong Er, founder and CEO of Chinese luxury label Shang Xia, conceived the idea of transforming the heritage of Chinese cultural aesthetics into modern interpretations for today’s growing numbers of Asian and Western connoisseurs of fine fashion and home products. She brought her concept to Hermès, the famous French luxury brand, and won their enthusiastic support. Next, she consulted with a number of Chinese museum curators and university professors for their advice and guidance. And then she searched the country for workshops and specialists who still had the knowledge and practical skills of traditional Chinese artisanal techniques – along with the creative imagination to bring them into the twenty-first century and adapt them to East-meets-West sensibilities. The result is Shang Xia’s elegant and constantly evolving ensemble of furniture, homeware, tea sets, apparel, leather goods, jewelry,

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享誉国际的设计师蒋琼耳希冀以当代设计诠释中国的生活美学，唤醒现今东西方各位精致时尚与家居用品鉴赏家的情感记忆。于是在 2009 年，她向家喻户晓的法国爱马仕集团提案，获得热烈支持，㩗手创立中国高尚生活品牌「上下」。随后她咨询多位中国博物馆馆长与大学教授，征求各方建议与指引，又在中国各地寻找老工坊与专家，他们不仅具备传统中国工艺的知识与技能，还有将这些技艺引进二十一世纪，并揉和东西方精髓的创造力与敏锐度。「上下」一系列典雅高贵又与时俱进的家具、家居用品、茶具、服饰、皮革制品、珠宝、配件于焉诞生，以 “ 家 ” 为原点出发，体现传统与现代最完美的交融。「上下」精制的每一件工艺品皆采用最上乘

COURTESY OF SHANG XIA (4)

“Dragon Cloud” porcelain teaware

Jiang Qiong Er, CEO and Artistic Director of Shang Xia

龙韵系列茶具

「上下」首席执行官及艺术总监蒋琼耳

and accessories that are centered on the theme of home and represent a perfect fusion of tradition and modernity. Each piece crafted by Shang Xia is made from superior materials expertly finished to the smallest detail. Classic techniques and designs are employed in products that include bamboo marquetry, bamboo weaving, eggshell porcelain, cashmere felt, mortise-and-tenon wooden furniture, carbon-fiber furniture, and kesi embroidery. There are now Shang Xia boutiques and retail spaces in Paris and in China’s major cities, each one a unique expression of the brand’s design ethos. The Paris shop, a cloud-like space made from six thousand glistening ceramic panels, echoes both the historic European admiration for Chinese ceramics and the pointillism of French Impressionism. The Beijing boutique, employing geometric patterns of masonry, aluminium, tea, and wood, reflects the design of the city’s historic crenellated walls. In 2014, Maison Shang Xia, a retail, culture, and art space, opened in a handsome century-old brick building in Shanghai. Offering all the warmth of national tradition, the Maison is home to Chinese elegance and style, creativity and quality, hospitality and generosity. This was Jiang’s idea of reconnecting the past with the young generation by transforming traditional culture to a contemporary one.

的材料，就连细微末节都经巧思妙手打造。不论是竹丝镶嵌、竹丝扣瓷、薄胎瓷、羊绒毡、榫卯木作家具、碳纤维家具及缂丝皮，各式各样的产品均充分反映出传统技艺与当代设计融和的美感和精妙。如今「上下」精品店与零售空间遍布巴黎和中国各大城市，每一间都以独一无二的方式展现品牌设计的精神。例如巴黎的店面由六千多片闪闪发光的白瓷片打造出浮云般的空间，呼应着自古以来欧洲人对中国陶艺的神往，亦向法国印象主义的点彩画派致敬。北京的零售空间则采用铝、茶、木三种材质，组成石砌般的几何图纹，恰与万里长城城墙的垛堞形状如出一辙。

2014 年，兼具零售、文化、艺术的体验空间 ──「上下」之家于上海正式开幕。这个位于一栋美轮美奂的百年老建筑里的 “ 家 ”，流淌着中国传统的温润醇厚，更散发出东方的古典与气韵、创意与高尚、好客与盛情。这正是蒋琼耳对「上下」的期许：搭建一座传统与现代的桥梁，让年轻一辈发现自己与传统的连结。

Maison Shang Xia 「上下」之家 No 233, Huai Hai Zhong Road, Shanghai city, China, 中国上海市淮海中路233号 www.shang-xia.com pride of jalisco

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ART EXHIBITION

Chen Qiang 陈墙

Huang Yuanqing 黄渊青

Oil on canvas 油彩布面

Acrylic and oil on canvas 丙烯油彩布面

艺术的对话

artistic dialogue MAT THEW LIU FINE ARTS GALLERY in Shanghai show-

艺术的每种表现形式都是一种独

cases the works of two of China’s most celebrated abstract artists. The total of eighteen works by Chen Qiang and Huang Yuanqing currently on display allow the public a rare opportunity to “listen in” on an artistic dialogue between two creators with very dissimilar styles. Chen Qiang uses a “natural birth” technique in which oil paint and black calligraphy ink freely extend outwards to produce an expression of purity. His paintings are composed of dots, lines, and other symbols that provide the viewer with a snapshot of his perception of both the outer world and his inner psyche. Huang Yuanqing is one of the leading figures in the field of abstract calligraphy. Characteristic of his work, his Chinese characters, brush strokes, lines, and colors seem to have no spatial or temporal boundaries. Featured in this exhibition are some of Huang’s most representative works in which the Chinese calligraphic tradition is married to the aesthetics and techniques of Western abstract expressionism. The result is a new language for artistic expression. Using his “symbol information,” Chen Qiang fills his paintings with pregnant tension, while Huang Yuanqing’s freehand painting-calligraphy crossover seems to flow effortlessly. But both artists use their personalized creativity to respond to the questions posed by abstract art. In doing so, they create a remarkable mutual resonance through the language of art.

特的语言。德玉堂画廊上海空间

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举办两位中国抽象艺术大师的双人联展，完整呈现抽象艺术家陈墙和黄渊青的十八件作品，让大众倾听这两位风格相异的大师以艺术为媒的对话。陈墙惯以一种 “ 自然孕育 ” 的绘画方式，让油彩水墨自由延展，创造纯粹的画面。他画中的点、线、面和 “ 符号 ” 驾驭着人

”QĪNG ZHÒNG” CHEN QIANG X HUANG YUANQING DUO EXHIBITION

June 20 to August 29, 2020 2020年6月20日－8月29日 •

Matthew Liu Fine Arts Suite L205-206A, 99 East Beijing Road, Shanghai 德玉堂画廊上海市黄浦区北京东路99号 2楼 L205-206A

类明澈清晰的视觉瞬间与内在感知，并营造出别致的明暗、光线与氛围。黄渊青是抽象书法艺术界的领军人物之一，他的文字、笔触、线。这次展出的是他最具代表性的作品，以传统中国书法与西方抽象表现绘画的美学与技法，是抽象艺术的新姿态。陈墙充满张力的 “ 符号信息 ” 和黄渊青写意浓烈的 “ 书画同源 ”，皆以独有的绘画方式来回应抽象艺术，产生的共鸣犹如一场绘画语言之舞。

COURTESY OF MATTHEW LIU FINE ARTS

线条及色彩没有时间的规范与界

捕捉人性的瞬间

PAN RUNZHOU

lacking background AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY artist Alex Katz is perhaps

美国当代艺术大师 Alex Katz 的作

best known for his deceptively simple-looking portraits that often feature fine brushstrokes and the bold use of color. Fosun Foundation Shanghai is currently hosting an Alex Katz retrospective that traces his creative growth through a body of work produced over a seven-decade career. Katz’s most recognizable works are those he calls his “cutouts.” Starting in 1952, he chose to eliminate backgrounds from his portraits, viewing them as incongruous intrusions. Created on cut panels, the portraits became famously imbued with a sense of freedom and independence. Viewers, lacking the context of a background by which to interpret and understand these works, must take their cues from how and where they have been placed. In this retrospective, eight cutouts of varying sizes and shapes are positioned in a staggered formation in the exhibition hall. This three-dimensional format provides countless new angles from which to see and interact with the works and gives viewers the maximum latitude for personal perception. Planarity is a recognized aspect of Katz’s work, and contrast between light and shadow one of his core themes. Although his works can be seen online, it is impossible to fully appreciate the impact of his exceptionally large canvases and of his brilliant use of broad color fields and vibrant color schemes unless one views them in person.

品用色大胆，笔触线条细腻，以画风简单深刻的人物肖像画闻名。上海复星艺术中心举办了这位浪漫老顽童的个人展览，展出他多年来的创作脉络和探索。

Alex 的剪贴画系列是他最特别的作品。他在 1952 年舍弃一直与人像画不搭调的背景，将人物

ALEX KATZ SOLO EXHIBITION

May 29 to August 9, 2020 2020年5月29日－8月9日 •

Fosun Foundation Shanghai 600 Zhongshan East 2nd Road Huangpu District, Shanghai 复星艺术中心上海黄浦区中山东二路600号

的部分沿着轮廓剪了下来，于是这些与背景裂开的人像不再依附于画布，而具有独立、自由的特性。

Alex 的画作不受背景所限，根据放置环境的不同，画作所传达的含义也有了多种解读的方式。八幅剪贴画错落地摆放在展区内，大小也各不相同。这种立体的展现方式也为画作增添了无数观赏的视角，选择哪个方向作为参照点，全由观众自行决定。平面性是 Alex 作品公认的特质，光影的变化则是他创作的核心主题。他对光影的敏锐、跳跃明快的色彩、大面积色块和巨大画幅带来的冲击，是电子屏幕无法复现的。 pride of jalisco

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TASTING NEWS

以食会友

companionable cuisine Talented chefs from around the globe pop up in Shanghai to serve their food in a setting of communal conviviality.

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新天地品牌的美食社交平台 Foodie Social 与八仙桌联手，在 7 月 10 － 20 日期间打造 Social Table 活动，向各界来客提供一个探索及鉴赏无尽味觉体验的平台。八仙桌以 “ 以食会友 ” 为核心理念，将品、求、制美食之人聚集一堂。Foodie

Social 则是个沉浸式美食社交平台，同时为新晋餐饮品牌和产品提供孵化展示。此次 Social Table 将在华美典雅、始建于 1925 年的四层建筑 “ 新天地壹号 ” 开展，品鉴套餐与餐酒搭配则由 “ 现代中餐先锋 ”Johnston Teo 倾力设计。

Johnston 擅于以华夏文明与餐桌礼仪为根基，独具匠心打造现代中华料理。菜单上的一道烟熏鸽子秉承 “ 从头吃到尾 ” 的原则，探索鸽子每个部位的可能性：鸽胸经烟熏后，由花椒和芹菜籽脆壳薄薄覆盖；鸽腿慢煮至软嫩，再油炸至金黄酥脆；剔下的鸽骨架熬成高汤，搭配清爽的小甜豆、珍宝饭团和牛肝菌清汤一同上桌，每一口都是不可多得的鲜美。甜点则选用来自台湾、带有柑橘和柠檬草香味的山胡椒，加入醇厚的天然希腊酸奶，搭配纯薄荷糖浆和白巧克力，再以手指柠檬点缀，彰显食材的天然风味。

COURTESY OF SOCIAL TABLE

A NEW COLLABORATIVE DINING PROJEC T named Social Table launches in Shanghai from July 10 to 20. The partners in the endeavor, Table for Eight and Foodie Social by Xintiandi, have joined forces to provide a stage for chefs and diners to connect through mutual exploration and enjoyment of unique culinary experiences. Based on the idea that companionship and cuisine are inseparable, Table for Eight offers a platform for showcasing all the possibilities of dining. It brings people together through food around a communal table that includes invited chefs, artists, influencers, and craftsmen. Foodie Social by Xintiandi is an immersive and inspiring food and social experience that also serves as an incubation platform for new players in the F&B sector. Social Table’s opening event takes place in the glamorous setting of Shanghai’s One Xintiandi, a magnificent and beautifully restored four-story mansion built in 1925. The event’s lavish tasting menu and wine pairings are the creations of Malaysian-born chef Johnston Teo, well-known for his innovative modern Chinese cuisine built on the foundations of traditional Chinese culture and dining etiquette. One of the menu’s standouts is smoked pigeon prepared “beak to tail.” The breast is smoked and then covered with a thin crust of Sichuan peppercorns and coriander seeds. The leg is simmered till tender, battered, and fried. The bones are used for a broth that is accompanied by peas and treasure rice. Completing the dish is a savory clear soup made with fresh porcini mushrooms. For a refreshing finish, Chef Teo infuses full-fat Greek yogurt with Taiwanese magao pepper, known for its orange and lemongrass notes. The flavors are intriguingly accentuated with mint extract, crystallized white chocolate, and finger lime.

江浙“晶”华

garden of delights

COURTESY OF CRYSTAL GARDEN

Elegant food in elegant surroundings makes Crystal Garden one of Shanghai’s most memorable dining experiences.

BURNISHED COPPER CHANDELIERS in the restaurant’s main lobby hint at the low-key sophistication and modern minimalist style of Crystal Garden, with its stylish décor, private settings, and acclaimed Jiangzhe-inspired menu. The spacious main dining room features more than a hundred seats so skillfully arranged that privacy prevails and diners never feel crowded. Six private dining rooms, three with their own adjoining terraces, provide an oasis of quiet and relaxation in the heart of the metropolis. The restaurant’s roomy main covered terrace, a perfect setting for enjoying the restaurant’s celebrated cuisine and wine pairings with friends and family, is surrounded by greenery and overlooks the city below. Crystal Garden showcases cuisine in the Jiangzhe tradition and also offers modern interpretations of Cantonese classics. Head chef Pei Jian-liang oversees every detail, from the selection of the freshest ingredients to the finishing touches on each dish. The menu reflects his deep understanding of the Cantonese culinary tradition and his mastery of the essence of Jiangzhe cooking. One favorite is the chef’s intriguing take on classic braised pork. His creative twist, which introduces Yangtze River eel, Dongbei rice, and Yunnan black truffles, adds complexity to the dish with a host of new flavor notes. Another popular selection is Mo Mo Pi, Chef Pei’s delectable variation on the spring roll. Every wrap is delicately stuffed with fresh seasonal greens and Matsusaka pork that has been lightly marinated before grilling, a combination as fragrant as it is flavorful.

晶苑餐厅装潢别致、私密性高，是在上海享用江浙菜的不二之选。从大堂的铜制吊灯便可一窥晶苑低调优雅的现代中式极简风格。餐厅宽阔大厅内的坐位错落有致，惬意舒适。六个包间的其中三个带有露台，是闹市中难得令人放松的一方天地。被藤蔓植物环绕的露台空间可眺望繁华街景，是与亲友一边享用佳肴，一边细品美酒的绝佳位置。晶苑的菜式以江浙风味菜为主，辅以新派粤菜，从食材选料到最后出品都由主厨裴建亮把关。裴主厨的菜式传承了粤菜的精华，又融合了江浙地方菜肴的精髓，独成一系。江南餐桌上常见的红烧肉经主厨巧手改造，配上油脂丰富的长江鳗鱼、东北稻米及云南黑松露，为细滑不腻口的肥肉增添多层次的风味。另外一道大受欢迎的菜式是主厨自制的么么皮，内卷当季新鲜时蔬，配上经腌制微焦的松板肉，入口香脆鲜甜，每一口都是丰富的好滋味。 pride of jalisco

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PRESENTED BY MAISON MUMM

香槟之韵

champagne tastes A talented Hong Kong chef creates a unique pairing menu to showcase the legendary RSRV Champagnes of Maison Mumm.

“I AM A CHAMPAGNE PERSON,” says Chef Edward Voon

emphatically. “And the RSRV range is so utterly beautiful – it pairs perfectly with my style here.” In Voon, head chef of contemporary French restaurant LE PAN, Maison Mumm’s RSRV Champagnes have also found a perfect partner. For nearly two hundred years, Maison Mumm’s cellar masters have followed house practice in selecting and setting aside its finest cuvées, marking them in the books as RSRV for “reserved.” In times past, unlabeled BY bottles of these choice wines were delivered MAMIE CHEN to close family and friends, along with a call• ing card. If the fortunate recipient was not at PHOTOGRAPHY BY home, the top corner of the card, in keeping DAVID HARTUNG with the etiquette of past centuries, would be turned down to indicate that it had been delivered in person. When Maison Mumm decided to begin releasing its RSRV collection to the public, its label, in a visual salute to this bygone tradition, was designed with a turned-down upper corner. This summer, Mumm invites Hong Kong to join the elite inner circle by launching the RSRV Club, whose members gain access to exclusive promotions and special events centered around the prestige cuvées. In celebration and to introduce what may be expected by way of forthcoming collaborations and epicurean experiences, Maison Mumm has teamed with Kowloon Bay’s LE PAN, whose white-marble-and-leather interiors and rarefied environs aptly evoke the elegance of the Palace of Versailles. The restaurant created a special tasting menu paired with the four RSRV Champagnes currently available in Hong Kong: Cuvée 4.5, Blanc de Blancs 2012, Blanc de Noirs 2009, and Lalou 2006. Drawing on his many years of working in and helming the kitchens of top French restaurants in Singapore, Voon heartily embraces the liberal use of butter, roasted bones, and a variety of French sauces. “But then,” he says, “I want to excite my guests by giving them something a bit different, something that reveals my roots.”

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当代法式餐厅 LE PAN 的餐厅主厨 Edward Voon 口气笃定：

“ 我一向钟情于香槟，RSRV 系列佳酿细致美好的风味与我的料理风格完美相衬。”

Maison Mumm 的酿酒专家从两百年前就谨守家训，拣选出最顶级的酒品并标记为 RSRV，即为 ” 预留 “ 之意。这些精选佳酿在过去仅会分送给亲朋好友，还会附带一张名片，若收件人不在家，人们便会依循数百年来的礼数，在名片上方折角，代表这瓶酒已有人亲自送达。后来 Maison Mumm 决定将 RSRV 系列公诸于世，这系列的商标右上方就有个折角，借此传统致敬。

Maison Mumm 今夏在香港成立了 RSRV 俱乐部，让香港跻身其菁英核心，俱乐部成员将享有该系列顶级佳酿的独家优惠和活动参与权。为了庆祝这项盛事，以及预告未来的合作与飨宴形式，Maison Mumm 特别与九龙湾的 LE PAN 联手推出尝味菜单。该餐厅内部装潢以洁白大理石与皮革为主体，整体氛围犹如凡尔赛宫般高雅华贵。 LE PAN 的盛宴餐单搭配四支香港限定的 RSRV 香槟，分别为 Cuvée 4.5、Blanc de Blancs 2012、Blanc de Noirs

2009 及 Lalou 2006。经过多年来在新加坡数家顶尖法式餐厅的历练，Edward 对于奶油、干烤骨头及多种法式酱料都能运用自如。他说道：

“ 但我也想端出能反映我文化根源的料理，让客人惊艳。”

H A M A C H I , OY S T E R , G R E E N C H I L I G A Z PA C H O , W I T H M A I S O N M U M M R S R V C U V É E 4.5 油甘鱼、生蚝、绿辣椒冷汤，搭配 MAISON M U M M R S R V C U V É E 4.5 “The dish has both sweetness and sourness, and I wanted to give it an extra kick of spice,” says Voon. The final combination of flavors is heightened by Cuvée 4.5, with its clean acidity derived from the chardonnay grapes and sturdy structure imparted by the pinot noir. Edward 表示：“ 这道菜兼具甜味和酸味，我还想让它有股强劲的辣味。”Cuvée 4.5 包含来自霞多丽的清新酸味和黑皮诺的厚重层次，配上这道料理，让最终的风味结合更加突出。

K R I S TA L C AV I A R , B A F U N U N I , EG G R OYA L E , W I T H M A I S O N M U M M R S R V B L A N C D E N O I R S 200 9 晶钻鱼子酱、马粪海胆、皇家水波蛋，搭配 MAISON MUMM RSRV BLANC

D E N O I R S 2009

“There’s the caviar and the uni ,” says Voon, “and underneath is the egg royale, which was steamed with fish bouillon, dried shiitake mushrooms, and a bit of Hondashi. On top is the shiso oil. That’s a lot of flavors and a lot of sensations.” Standing up well to such a complex, rich dish, says the chef, is Blanc de Noirs 2009, with the style, structure, and strength that come from pinot noir and a depth that grows with a slightly older vintage. Edward 说道：“ 这道菜结合了很多风味和感官刺激，有鱼子酱和海胆，下面则是跟鱼高汤、干香菇和一点高汤粉一起蒸煮的皇家水波蛋，最上面则是紫苏油。” 主厨认为最适合的搭配莫过于 Blanc de Noirs 2009，其风格、结构、来自于黑皮诺的浓厚口感和陈放数年酝酿出的深层风味，与这道层次复杂又浓郁的菜式相得益彰。

PRESENTED BY MAISON MUMM

He plays, for example, on classically French langoustine ravioli by wrapping botan ebi in Chinese sui kow wrappers and serving them with fermented black bean beurre blanc sauce. He prepares charcoal-grilled Brittany blue lobsters with a Singaporeanstyle black pepper sauce. The result is what Voon describes as “inventive French with an Asian sensibility,” a cuisine that splendidly harmonizes with the versatility of Maison Mumm RSRV Champagnes. Voon’s menu features two contrasting dishes paired with RSRV Cuvée 4.5, a distinctive blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from five of Maison Mumm’s renowned grand cru vineyards. Alexandre Polmard beef tartare is generously topped with Sturia baerii caviar d’Aquitaine and accented with tiny cubes of jellied Xiang Zao Lu, a sauce used for Chinese drunken chicken. The caviar’s brininess and the salinity of the tartare and jelly accentuate the Champagne’s sweet undertones. In the following course, Glacier 51 toothfish and julienned ginger are steamed at low temperature, served with Provençal asparagus and a quenelle of bell pepper and tomato chutney, and finished with a shellfish-and-vermouth emulsion. Cuvée 4.5’s complexity and depth show through and its tangy citrus notes and fresh minerality offset the fish’s buttery richness. “Cuvée 4.5 is so well-balanced that it pairs excellently with such a variety of foods,” says Voon. On his Maison Mumm tasting menu, sashimi-style hamachi with daurenki caviar, three textures of oysters, and green chili gazpacho is intriguingly paired with RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2012. While this Champagne’s crisp minerality shines a new light on the raw seafood, the chef sees other pairing possibilities ahead. “It’s fun to change things up,” he says. “Maison Mumm RSRV Champagnes can show so many different faces.”

Chef Edward Voon

Edward 基于此概念翻转经典菜式，例如他用中式水饺皮包牡丹虾，并佐以发酵黑豆白奶油酱汁，重新诠释了经典的法式料理海螯虾意式面饺。此外他也用一种新加坡的黑胡椒酱汁来搭配炭烤布列塔尼蓝龙虾，他称其为 “ 具亚洲魅力的创意法国料理 ”，该菜式与 Maison Mumm 调性多样的 RSRV 香槟达成完美的和谐。 RSRV 的 Cuvée 4.5 是将出产于 Maison Mumm 五大著名葡萄园之一的霞多丽和黑皮诺以独特比例混酿而成，Edward 的菜单中有两道截然不同的料理皆佐以这支酒，其中一道是 Alexandre Polmard 鞑靼牛肉，洒上大量 Sturia 鱼子酱，再以中式醉鸡酱料香糟露制成的果冻小方块突显风味。鱼子酱的海洋鲜味、鞑靼牛肉和果冻的咸香将香槟低调的甜味显得更出众。下一道菜肴是以低温蒸煮的冰川 51 号南极鳕鱼与姜丝，佐以普罗旺斯芦笋和一匙橄榄形甜椒番茄酸辣酱，再淋上贝类苦艾酒乳化酱汁。Cuvée 4.5 的复杂层次舒展于这搭配之中，其柑橘的酸调和清新的矿物味也中和了鳕鱼浓厚的奶油风味。Edward 说：“ Cuvée 4.5 的风味非常平衡，因此与许多不同种类的食物都很搭。” 鰤鱼生鱼片佐 Daurenki 鱼子酱，则配上三种口感的生蚝和绿辣椒冷汤，风味别具。这道菜式巧妙地搭配 RSRV 的 Blanc de Blancs 2012，这支香槟的清爽矿物味带出了生海鲜的另一种风味，而 Edward 对于餐酒搭配可能性的想法可不仅于此，他说： “ 带来改变是很有趣的事，Maison Mumm 出产的 RSRV 香槟能让料理展现出许多不同面向。”

A reminder from Maison Mumm: Please drink responsibly. pride of jalisco

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TASTING NOTES

故乡之味

HOME FREE A Tapatío chef’s restless energy draws the culinary world’s attention to Guadalajara’s food scene.

“ ‘inquietud’ 这个字的意思是 ‘ 躁动 ’，并想进 “THERE IS A WORD, inquietud . It is like when you are feeling restless 一步探索。“Paco Ruano 说道。Alcalde 座落于 and uncomfortable and you want to search for more,” says Paco Ruano, 瓜达拉哈拉，高踞 2019 年 ” 拉丁美洲五十大最 head chef and co-owner of Restaurante Alcalde, the Guadalajara 佳餐厅 ” 第 14 名，并荣获该年度最佳跃升奖。 restaurant ranked number fourteen on the Latin America’s 50 Best 身为该餐厅老板之一暨主厨的 Paco Ruano 接着 Restaurants 2019 list and recipient of the year’s Highest Climber Award. 说： “Me, I like to explore through food.” ” 我也一样，喜欢在食物里探索。” BY 或许正是这股 ” 燥动 ”，驱使 Perhaps it was a feeling of inquietud that drove Ruano MAMIE CHEN to leave his home city of Guadalajara as a young adult, first Paco 年纪轻轻便离开家乡瓜达拉哈 • 拉，先在巴亚尔塔港赫赫有名的餐 to intern with Thierry Blouet at Puerto Vallarta’s legendPHOTOGRAPHY BY 馆 Café de Los Artistas 担任 Thierry ary Café des Artistes, then to work on cruise ships around DAVID HARTUNG Blouet 的学徒，之后在周游列国的 the world, afterward to study at the prestigious Luis Irizar Cooking School in Spain, and finally to learn from the maestros themselves in the kitchens of the world’s best restaurants, including Noma, El Celler de Can Roca, and Mugaritz. “While I was in Europe, I was amazed by how proud the Spaniards were in their local products: the black beans from Tolosa, special tomatoes from this town, green beans from another town,” Ruano recalls. “They were super high quality. But I was also used to similar quality in the products in the markets in Guadalajara. Everybody took it for granted at home. So, that was a great learning moment in my life.” After three years, a different kind of inquietud would draw him back home to rediscover the flavors and ingredients of his childhood with a fresh perspective and a light, contemporary touch. Because the Tapatío culture of Guadalajara and its surrounding state of Jalisco is typically associated more with cultural traditions like mariachi bands, charrería (rodeo-like competitions), and tequila than with its culinary heritage, his creative work has been relatively unencumbered by any preconceived expectations of his guests. “At Alcalde, we want to showcase the identity of the region through its food,” says Ruano. “We’re able to do a cuisine that is very free.”

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邮轮餐厅工作，然后在西班牙享誉盛名的 Luis Irizar 烹饪学校深造，进而获得在全球首屈一指的餐厅如 Noma、El Celler de Can Roca、Mugaritz 的厨房里，受教于名厨的机会。

Paco 回忆道：” 我在欧洲时看到西班牙人总以当地农产品为傲，像是托洛萨的黑豆、某城镇的特产番茄、青豆等等，让我惊讶不已。这些农作物的确都是上乘之选，但我在瓜达拉哈拉的市场也能见到品质同样优异的农产品，只是我家乡的人都视为理所当然。那一刻对我来说是一记当头棒喝。” 三年后，另一种截然不同的 ” 燥动 ” 引领他回到家乡，开始以全新观点与一丝当代手法，重新展现他自小熟悉的各种风味与食材。由于瓜达拉哈拉的文化及其所处的哈利斯科州向来崇尚传统，像是墨西哥街头乐队 mariachi、墨西哥马术竞赛 charrería（一种类似牛仔竞技的赛事）与龙舌兰，但世代相传的当地料理却鲜少受到重视。正因如此，Paco 的创意理念不曾受到宾客

“It is very typical to eat cajeta with cheese. It’s like a dulce de leche but made with goat’s milk,” says Ruano. He blends smoked bone marrow with the cajeta and spreads it between two light wafers. The plating represents the barbecue tradition of an asado, with real bones and edible ash made from charred rib eye fat and sugar.

B O N E M A R R OW C A J E TA 骨髓树皮糖果

Paco 解释：” 树皮糖果最经典的吃法是搭配奶酪，它很像焦糖，但是用羊奶做的。” 他混合烟熏骨髓与树皮糖果，再涂抹在两片薄薄的酥饼中间。摆盘则参照阿萨多烤肉传统，仿佛有着真正的骨头与用烤焦的肋眼脂肪和糖制成的可食用灰烬。

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TASTING NOTES

C H O R I ZO A N D EG G 乔利佐肉肠伴蛋

In Alcalde’s version of the common Mexican breakfast, a bite-sized blue corn sope, a thick corn tortilla with pinched sides, holds chorizo sauce and a poached quail egg, topped with a slice of dried chorizo and an amaranth leaf. 这道家常墨西哥早餐在 Alcalde 主厨的巧手改良下，变成乔利佐肉酱与水波鹌鹑蛋搭配一口大小蓝玉米饼，再摆上一片干乔利佐肉肠与红苋叶。

Paco Ruano

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F LOW E R O F S C A L LO P S A N D YO U N G CO CO N U T In a beautiful dish that reflects in both plating and flavor Ruano’s time spent working in a French restaurant, slices of scallops and young coconut are rolled into a flower and served with a creamy emulsion of habanero, vanilla, and agave honey with lemon juice and ginger. Little chips of raw, fresh peanuts add crunchy texture.

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Paco 曾于法式餐厅工作，他的经验呈现于这道精美料理的摆盘与风味中。干贝切片后与嫩椰肉卷成一朵花的形状，配搭以哈瓦那辣椒、香草、龙舌兰蜂蜜、柠檬汁和姜制成的浓稠酱汁，新鲜的生花生粒更添酥脆口感。

TASTING NOTES

A CO C I L E S A L A J I L LO Ruano pairs the Yucatán salbute, a puffed-out, deep-fried tortilla, with a spicy condiment of tiny river shrimp stewed with garlic, chili, butter, lime, and salt, and completes the snack with a peppery nasturtium leaf.

犹加敦的 salbute 是一种油炸后膨胀的玉米饼，Paco 为其搭配体型极小的溪虾与大蒜、辣椒、牛油、青柠、盐炖制而成的辛香料，再以充满胡椒味的旱金莲叶为这道小点心划下完美的句点。

C A M OT E D E C E R R O The wild hill potato is commonly eaten as a simple street snack, blanched and seasoned with lime, salt and chili. Ruano prefers to celebrate the naturally viscous texture of the tuber’s raw form, topping it with a lemon supreme, some chili powder and a sprinkling of fine salt from Colima.

这种野生山药是常见的街头小吃，用开水短暂烫过后，以青柠、盐、辣椒调味。为了突显其天然的黏性质地，Paco 偏好以块茎的原始风貌呈现，仅摆上柠檬肉、一点辣椒粉与一小撮科利马精盐。

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TASTING NOTES

BEEF TERRINE SERVED WITH BIRRIA, ONIONS AND BLACK BEANS 牛肉酱麋佐 BIRRIA 炖菜、洋葱与黑豆 “I think this dish gives a nice glimpse into the local Jalisciense culture,” says Ruano of the traditional birria, a spicy goat meat stew. “We didn’t want to mess with tradition directly, so we do it very differently from how it is normally made. It’s a sweeter, gentler version.” Ruano instead braises, shreds, and presses the meat from five different cuts of beef into a terrine that is then fried in melted bone marrow. He makes a sweeter broth with caramelized onions and finishes the dish with pickled onions, onion leathers, and amaranth leaves.

Paco 这样形容这道传统的辛辣羊肉炖菜：” 它充分彰显了哈利斯科当地文化。但我们不想破坏传统，所以用了截然不同的炮制手法，让它更鲜甜、柔和。” 他屏弃传统，将五种不同的牛肉部位以文火慢煨、撕碎、辗压成酱麋，再置于融化的骨髓中香煎。高汤以焦糖化的洋葱制作，口味较甜，再以腌洋葱、洋葱皮、红苋叶结尾。

Apropos of a restaurant named after Mercado Alcalde, Guadalajara’s downtown market where his mother regularly took him food shopping as a child, Ruano says, “We were the first ones to take the things you find in the markets for home cooking, and we brought them to the restaurant and tried to write a new story for them.” Take the root of the chayote , or Mexican pear squash, which is similar to yuca but with a more elegant texture. Ruano’s mother fries it and serves it with tomato sauce at home. “It’s super tasty,” he says. At Alcalde, he has turned it into an ice cream foam. Cecina is a salt-cured, air-dried beef that can be found in markets all over Mexico, with some vendors selling them drier than others. At Alcalde, the beef is brined, frozen, sliced, rolled, brushed, baked, fried, and dusted. “Oh, it’s a pain to make!” Ruano laughs and ruefully shakes his head. But anyone who has tasted the end result – an umami-rich, light-and-crispy, paper-thin sheet of beef served with guacamole and chilpete chili sauce – will vehemently argue in favor of the effort.

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任何先入为主的期待所囿。他说：”Alcalde 藉由料理展现这个地区的特色 – 无拘无束。”

Alcalde 以瓜达拉哈拉市中心的市场 Mercado Alcalde 命名，也是 Paco 小时候经常跟着母亲去买菜的地方。Paco 说：” 我们是第一家将菜市场贩卖的食材制成家常料理的餐厅，但我们赋予这些食材崭新的故事。” 例如墨西哥佛手瓜 chayote 的根，类似木薯，但质地更细致。Paco 的母亲在家是将其油炸后配番茄酱佐餐。他感叹：” 美味得不得了！ ” 而在 Alcalde，同样的食材摇身一变成了冰淇淋泡沫。 Cecina 则是一种经过盐腌风干的牛肉，在墨西哥任何一个市场都随处可见，只是有些摊贩卖的干燥些，有些较湿润。Alcalde 的这种牛肉则经过盐渍、冷冻、切片、滚卷、刷汁、烘烤、油炸、洒粉，工序十分繁琐。 Paco 一边笑一边哀怨地摇摇头：” 唉，很费工啦！ ” 但任何尝过这道鲜味满溢、

C EC I N A W I T H G U A C A M O L E A N D C H I L P E T E C H I L I S A U C E C EC I N A 佐酪梨酱与 C H I L P E T E 辣酱

Ruano’s labor-intensive process involves brining a whole cow’s leg and then freezing it solid before slicing it very thinly. He compresses the meat under a heavy rolling pin to further thin it out, brushes it with lemon, and puts it in the oven to dry. Afterwards he fries it and seasons it with mushroom powder for extra umami.

While the influence from Ruano’s time in Europe can be seen and felt in little blinks throughout Alcalde’s cuisine, the focus is always on the high-quality, local ingredients. Sprinkled throughout the menu are details celebrating the local products: suckling pig from Guanajuato, chorizo from Valladolid, salt from Colima. When seasonally appropriate, half of the tasting menu is based on the products of the traditional Mesoamerican agricultural system called milpa , which centers around corn but includes secondary cultivation of beans, squash, and chili peppers, as well as wild herbs. “When we first launched Alcalde, our goal was to fulfill a chef’s idea of how food should be done,” says Ruano. “Now our main focus is to support the producers. I feel a responsibility to make food in a tasty and compelling way that highlights the cool things that the farmers and fishers and cheesemakers are doing. We’re very proud that 95 percent of our products come from very close by with traceability. For me, that is very enriching.”

Paco 炮制这道菜式的工序繁复：先取得整只牛腿，将其冷冻变硬后切成极薄的薄片，然后用很重的杆面棍将肉片压得更薄，刷上柠檬汁，再放进烤箱烘干，之后经过油煎，再以蘑菇粉增添鲜味。

轻盈又酥脆、如纸般薄的牛肉成品，搭配酪梨酱与

chilpete 辣酱的人，都会大力肯定这些繁复工序是值得的。尽管欧洲历练对 Paco 的影响显见于 Alcalde 的料理当中，但重点总是优质的当地食材，在菜单上总是能见到它们的身影：瓜纳华托的乳猪、巴利亚多利德的肉肠、科利马的盐。若正值当令时节，品尝菜单半数的料理设计都以中美洲传统农作体系

milpa 为根本。这种耕种系统以玉米为主，但亦包括豆类、瓜类、辣椒类及野生药草等二级耕作的产物。

Paco 表示：”Alcalde 刚开业时的目标，是让厨师们有自由发挥的平台，现在的重点则是支持生产者。我认为身为厨师，我有责任将食物烹调得令人垂涎三尺、难以抗拒，才能彰显农民、渔夫、奶酪制造商等生产者的贡献。我们可以骄傲地说，我们餐厅有 95% 的农产品都来自附近地区，而且有清楚的生产履历。光是这点便让我感到十分满足了。” pride of jalisco

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COMPETITION

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缔造完美

EIGHT-MINUTE PERFECTION Seven finalists in this year’s Patrón Perfectionists cocktail competition draw on their backgrounds and experiences to craft very personal expressions of the ultimate drink.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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COMPETITION

2020 年培恩专业调酒师大赛的最后一天，来自伦敦传奇酒吧 Artesian 的调酒师 Giulia Cuccurullo 在吧台后方驾驭全场。经过八个月，从地方、区域乃至全球准决赛脱颖而出的她，仅需八分钟，就调制出完美无瑕的鸡尾酒。经过多次磨练，她的服务与抛掷技巧愈发娴熟，已臻完美之境。决赛在墨西哥哈利斯科高地的培恩庄园举行，Giulia 即将最后一次大展身手。她提出一个不言自明的问题：“ 说到完美，以及完美对我们的意义，我们心中所想的会一样吗？ ” 这当然不一样。培恩龙舌兰酒厂于 2019 年五月公开征选原创酒谱，表明参赛者所提交的调酒酒谱必须完美得无懈可击，最后总共收到来自六大洲、三十四个国家、超过三千份参赛酒谱。参赛的调酒师除了必须在短短八分钟内展现熟练的调酒技艺，还要以引人入胜的手法端出繁复又令人叹为观止的 Twenty-one semifinalists from around the world gather at Hacienda Patrón to connect, engage, and compete at the fifth annual Patrón Perfectionists cocktail competition. 二十一位来自世界各地的准决赛选手齐集培恩庄园，竞逐第五届培恩专业调酒师大赛桂冠。

调酒作品，调酒的外观、风味、创意、调酒师的服务与主持功力均须接受评分。众多参赛者经过激烈角逐后，只会有 21 位选手进入准决赛，再从中选出 7 位进入决赛，最终只会有一位总冠军诞生。要挤身这个调酒大赛似乎难如登天，但与其说这是场耐力的考验，不如形容它

GIULIA CUCCURULLO of London’s legendary Artesian presides behind the bar at Hacienda Patrón in the Highlands of Jalisco, Mexico. Over the course of eight months and three rounds of local, regional, and global semifinal competitions, she has refined her eight-minute cocktail presentation, polished her delivery, and honed her throwing skills. And on this final day of the 2020 Patrón Perfectionists Cocktail Competition, she begins one last time. “Let’s talk about perfection, and what it means to us. Are we all thinking about the same thing?” she asks rhetorically. Of course not. “ Your cocktail submission must be perfection,” Tequila Patrón had advised in a May 2019 call for entries that netted over three thousand original recipe submissions from thirty-four countries across six continents. With just eight minutes on the clock, bartenders would be asked to skillfully craft and engagingly serve a sophisticated, compelling cocktail, all the while knowing they were being judged on appearance, originality, service and hosting, and flavor. By definition, the competition would ultimately have to whittle the number of competitors down to twenty-one semifinalists, then seven finalists, and finally one winner. Yet despite how that sounds, Patrón Perfectionists is less a mettletesting contest and more a celebration of the diverse ways in which individuals draw upon their unique backgrounds and personal experiences to ascribe their personal interpretation of a perfect cocktail. Third place

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为彰显龙舌兰酒多元文化的机会，让众多调酒好手根据自己的独特背景与个人历练，诠释出心目中极致完美的鸡尾酒。荣获季军的南韩调酒师 Willy Park 演绎的作品 Be(e) 重新定义了何谓正宗，一方面象征培恩对环境责任的承诺，同时突显他对浪迹天涯、环游世界的热爱。亚军得主是加拿大调酒师 Jared Schmidt，他的作品 It

Takes a Valley 分别向两群功不可没的人们致敬：英属哥伦比亚省欧肯纳根山谷的农产业者以及培恩的 1,600 名员工，正是这两群幕后功臣造就了调酒的主要原料。完美对每个人的意义都不同，Giulia 相信大家必须分享彼此的故事，才能理解彼此完美的标准。事实上，她就发现人与人之间激荡出火花、产生连结的当下，完美就出现了。因此她透过鸡尾酒讲述她的故事，与评审和观众结缘。

“ 今天我不会只让各位品尝一杯饮品，也不会只告诉各位一个故事。我今天在这里，让各位品味我的故事。”

Giulia Cuccurullo 2020 Patrรณn Perfectionist PRIDE OF JALISCO

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Tobias Lindner of Jigger and Spoon in Stuttgart, Germany 德国斯图加特Jigger and Spoon的Tobias Lindner

“With just eight minutes on the clock, bartenders would be asked to skillfully craft and engagingly serve a sophisticated, compelling cocktail, all the while knowing they were being judged on appearance, originality, service and hosting, and flavor.

参赛的调酒师除了必须在短短八分钟内展现熟练的调酒技艺，还要以引人入胜的手法端出繁复又令人叹为观止的调酒作品，调酒的外观、风味、创意、调酒师的服务与主持功力均须接受评分。” Jared Schmidt of Orchard Room in Kelowna, Canada 加拿大基隆拿Orchard Room的Jared Schmidt

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COMPETITION

“Today, I won’t just let you taste a drink. Today, I won’t just tell you a story. Today, I am here to make you taste my story.

今天我不会只让各位品尝一杯饮品，也不会只告诉各位一个故事。我今天在这里，让各位品味我的故事。” GIULIA CUCCURULLO

finisher Willy Park of South Korea redefines authenticity in crafting his sustainable cocktail Be(e) as a dual symbol of Patrón’s commitment to environmental responsibility and of his personal wanderlust as a globetrotting bartender. Runner-up Jared Schmidt of Canada pays tribute Giulia Cuccurullo of Artesian in London, United Kingdom to two communities, the agricultural producers of British 英国伦敦Artesian的Giulia Cuccurullo Columbia’s Okanagan Valley and the 1600 employees of Patrón, for making possible the main components of his cocktail, It Takes a Valley. Because perfection means different things to different people, Giulia 的故事从鸡尾酒的名称开始。 Cuccurullo believes that they must share their stories with one another in The Bridge 指的是她在拿坡里攻读建筑时，刚开始学习调酒，从此发现了将改变她一生 order to understand the touchstones of their perfection. In fact, she herself 的热情所在。The Bridge 也结合了各种代表 finds perfection in that moment when things click between people and a 她人生中重要地点的元素：番茄水代表她意 personal connection is made. And so she tells her story and makes her con大利裔的背景，大黄利口酒代表她在英国的 nections with the judges and the audience through her cocktail. 家，培恩银樽龙舌兰则代表她在墨西哥逐梦 “Today, I won’t just let you taste a drink. Today, I won’t just tell you a 成功的愿望。 story. Today, I am here to make you taste my story.” Cuccurullo’s cocktail introduces her story by way of its name, The Bridge, which references her time as an architecture student in Naples when she first began bartending and discovered a new passion that would change her life. The Bridge also serves to unite the main ingredients that represent the important places in her life: tomato water for her Italian heritage, rhubarb cordial for her British home, and Patrón Silver for dreams of success in Mexico. When she adds the fortified wine blend – the iconic Italian vermouth, of course – into an ice-filled cocktail shaker, she turns to one of the judges, Simon Difford, and thanks him for his iconic Difford’s Guide as she gifts him with a Lego replica of a bridge to symbolize their newly forged connection. She repeats the gesture in drawing a connection between a cocktail ingredient and each of the other three judges.

当她将加烈混合葡萄酒 — 经典的意大利苦艾酒 — 倒进装满冰块的调酒器时，她转向其中一位评审 Simon Difford，感谢他，同撰写经典的调酒指南《Difford’s Guide》时赠与他一座用乐高拼成的桥，象征两人之间新建立起的缘分。然后她以同样的方法，一一将调酒里某种原料与另三位评审建立连结。原料都放进调酒器后，她从上方握住隔冰器，将之高举过头，左手则在差不多的高度举着一个空的钢杯，随即开始倾倒液体。在重力的作用下，只见她优雅地将接着液体的那只手降至大腿中间的高度，倾泻而下的 pride of jalisco

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COMPETITION

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COMPETITION

Giulia Cuccurullo builds a literal and metaphorical bridge for and with judge Simon Difford Giulia Cuccurullo与评审Simon Difford之间有着深刻的连结。

With the ingredients combined in the shaker, she nestles a Hawthorne strainer at an angle at the top, and raises the tin high above her head. With her left hand, she holds an empty tin at a similar height and begins pouring the liquid over. As gravity takes effect, she gracefully lowers her catching hand to her mid-thigh, creating an elegant arc of falling liquid that maximizes the aeration within and releases the aromatics without. “I tried all of the methods of mixing the ingredients – shaking it, stirring it,” Cuccurullo says. “But when I threw it, I found that the texture felt lighter and the herbal notes and savory flavor that I wanted were better highlighted.” “What I love most is seeing how these highly skilled bartenders are able to turn their passion into amazing cocktails that build upon Patrón’s philosophies and Patrón’s tequilas,” says Antonio Rodriguez, production director at Patrón and three-time competition judge. “The learning goes both ways. In seeing their cocktails, we can better understand how Patrón fits into the different cultures around the world. On the other hand, we can share our story with these bartenders, who return home as some of our biggest ambassadors.” After having visited an agave field, watched a jimador wield a coa to harvest a piña, and planted her own agave, after having toured the Hacienda, seen the small-batch brick ovens and tahona mills, and tasted and blended the different distillates and various barrel-aged spirits, and after having met and spoken with a sampling of the iconic “60 hands” that make one bottle of Tequila Patrón, Cuccurullo is inclined to agree.

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液体划出一道优美的弧线，不仅大大增加了酒体与空气的接触，还释放出香气。

Giulia 说：“ 摇晃、搅拌，所有混合原料的方法我都试过了。后来我发现抛掷的时候，酒体质地会变得轻盈，我想要的香草调性和香醇浓郁也更加突出。” 培恩生产总监暨三届调酒大赛评审

Antonio Rodriguez 说：“ 我最乐见的就是这些才华洋溢的调酒师基于培恩的理念与龙舌兰酒，将自己的热情注入调酒里。我们在比赛中互相学习。从他们的调酒作品，我们能够更深入了解培恩如何融入世界各地文化，同时我们也与这些调酒师分享我们的故事，有些调酒师回到自己的国家后，成了我们最佳的外交大使。” 关于互相学习这点，Giulia 再同意不过了。她此次参观了龙舌兰田，见到农人以专门用来采集龙舌兰的工具采收鳞茎，并亲手种下自己的龙舌兰草。她还走访了培恩庄园，见到小批量砖窑与用来碾磨龙舌兰草心的巨大石磨，品尝、混合不同的蒸馏物与各种木桶陈酿的烈酒，甚至有幸与打造培恩龙舌兰酒的 “ 六十双手 ” 其中几位大师面对面交流。

Anneliese Grazioli of Hot Tamale in Darwin, Australia 澳洲达尔文市Hot Tamale的Anneliese Grazioli

“What I love most is seeing how these highly skilled bartenders are able to turn their passion into amazing cocktails that build upon Patrón’s philosophies and Patrón’s tequilas.

我最乐见的就是这些才华洋溢的调酒师基于培恩的理念与龙舌兰酒，将自己的热情注入调酒里。” ANTONIO RODRIGUEZ

Jason Hussien Ali of The Peak in Manila, Philippines 菲律宾马尼拉The Peak的Jason Hussien Ali

PRIDE OF JALISCO

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Willy Park of Alice Bar in Seoul, South Korea 南韩首尔Alice Bar的Willy Park

“ In seeing their cocktails, we can better understand how Patrón fits into the different cultures around the world. On the other hand, we can share our story with these bartenders, who return home as some of our biggest ambassadors.

从他们的调酒作品，我们能够更深入了解培恩如何融入世界各地文化，同时我们也与这些调酒师分享我们的故事，有些调酒师回到自己的国家后，成了我们最佳的外交大使。” ANTONIO RODRIGUEZ Sarah Turbett of Oak Steakhouse in Nashville, USA 美国纳什维尔Oak Steakhouse的Sarah Turbett

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COMPETITION

Fireworks light the sky above Hacienda Patrón as the 2020 Patrón Perfectionist Giulia Cuccurullo raises her trophy in celebration. 2020年培恩专业调酒师大赛冠军Giulia Cuccurullo举起奖杯庆祝时，烟火正在培恩庄园上空绽放。

“This was a completely different experience that I will always remember. For sure, I made a great connection with Patrón – the brand, the process, the tequila, and the people,” she says. Patrón Perfectionists is unique among most cocktail competitions in that the twenty-one regional titleholders are treated to a sevenday extravaganza at Hacienda Patrón, where they stay at the on-site, invitation-only La Casona guesthouse, tour the distillery facilities and meet the people behind the handcrafted tequila, experience Mexican food and culture in the surrounding area, and form long-lasting relationships with their fellow competitors. “The more time we spent with each other and the more we shared our journey together, the more we connected with each other,” says Cuccurullo. “By the end, it didn’t feel like a competition. It felt more like a community where everyone cared about and wished the best for the others.” Cuccurullo pours her cocktail into highball glasses filled with clear ice and garnished with tomato and rhubarb leather and presents the finished drinks to the judges and the audience. “This is my connection in a glass. This is my perfection. But tell your own story as well. Tell your story more often. Make your own perfection. Make your own bridges.” On her fourth and final presentation for the 2020 Patrón Perfectionist title, Cuccurullo and her cocktail, The Bridge, are simply perfect.

她说： “ 这是前所未有的体验，我永远忘不了。我与培恩的品牌、酿造流程、龙舌兰酒与这里的人们结下了深刻的不解之缘。” 培恩专业调酒师大赛有别于多数调酒比赛。

21 位区冠军受邀在培恩庄园接受七天的盛宴款待，他们住在只接待受邀宾客的 La Casona 酒店，获准参观蒸馏厂所有设施，与手工制作龙舌兰的幕后人员见面，还能在邻近地区体验墨西哥料理与文化，与其他参赛者建立起长久的友谊。

Giulia 说：“ 我们相处的时间越长，一起经历的事物越多，彼此的关系就越紧密。到最后根本不觉得是来比赛的，大家变成了惺惺相惜、互相打气的朋友。”

Giulia 将调酒倒入盛有清澈冰块，以番茄和大黄皮点缀的高球杯，然后将成品献给评审与观众。她为自己的作品旁述：“ 与我有关的一切都在这杯鸡尾酒里，这就是我心目中的完美。但请各位也分享你自己的故事，与更多人讲述你的故事，创造你自己的完美，创造你自己的连结。” 这是她在 2020 年培恩专业调酒师大赛的第四次，也是最后一次调酒展演。无庸置疑，Giulia 与她的作品 The Bridge 确实无懈可击，完美展现她的 “ 完美 ”。 pride of jalisco

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TRAVEL

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文化“墨”迹

The MANY FACES of JALISCO Senior writer MAMIE CHEN and photographer DAVID HARTUNG explore the intersection of old world charm, iconic traditions of cultural heritage, and modern innovations and technologies on proud display throughout the Mexican state of Jalisco and its capital, Guadalajara.

“YOU

know the Tapatío culture; everyone knows it,” says Paco Ruano, head chef of Alcalde and one of Guadalajara’s most famous and influential restaurateurs. “It’s the cliché of the charros, the singing, the tequila, and the golden age of Mexican cinema that highlights the pure values of the people.” He himself is proudly Tapatío – how Mexicans colloquially refer to those from Guadalajara – and while technically the term is specific to the people and the culture of the state capital, Ruano is effusively inclusive of the heritage and traditions from all of Jalisco state in his hometown pride. Currently the second-largest city in Mexico, Guadalajara has garnered a number of nicknames since it was officially founded as a Spanish outpost on February 14, 1542. Some call it the City of Fountains or the City of Roses for their picturesque profusion throughout the city. Others call it the Silicon Valley of Mexico for the tech companies that have opened facilities in the city and its suburbs. British historian Edward Gibbon dubbed it the Florence of Mexico for the fine examples of mural art lining the walls and ceilings of the city that fostered the rise of modern Mexican muralism. But the sobriquet that resonates the most is Perla de Occidente, or Pearl of the West, in honor of the rich history, heritage, and culture that Guadalajara and the rest of Jalisco contribute to Mexico’s national identity – past, present, and future.

瓜达拉哈拉著名且具影响力的 Alcalde 餐厅老板兼主厨 Paco Ruano 说道：” 大家都知道

Tapatío 文化是什么，就是墨西哥牛仔的老套文化－唱歌和龙舌兰酒，墨西哥电影黄金时期点出的人性纯朴也是箇中元素。” 墨西哥人皆称来自瓜达拉哈拉的人和文化为 Tapatío，Paco 以身为 Tapatío 为傲，同时也为家乡哈利斯科州的文化传统感到自豪。瓜达拉哈拉现为墨西哥第二大城，从 1542 年 2 月 14 日正式成为西班牙驻军的前哨基地后，便得到不少称号。这座城市风景如画、景点众多，因此有人称其为喷泉之城或玫瑰之城。许多科技公司在城内及市郊驻点，因此这里也被誉为墨西哥矽谷。英国历史学家爱德华吉本则称之为墨西哥佛罗伦斯，因城内建筑物的墙身和天花板上满布壁画，也孕育出现代墨西哥壁画运动。然而，最能引起共鸣的称号莫过于 ” 西方之珠 ”，向瓜达拉哈拉及哈利斯科州其他地区拥有的丰富历史、传统与文化，及它们对墨西哥过去、现代及未来的国家认同所付出的贡献致敬。

“Hidalgo” by José Clemente Orozco at the Palacio de Gobierno in Guadalajara 瓜达拉哈拉“政府之殿“内的《Hidalgo》壁画出自José Clemente Orozco之手

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Stained glass windows by Jacques and Gerard Degusseau of Orléans, France, extend up into the soaring spire of the Templo Expiatorio del Santísimo Sacramento in Guadalajara.

“El Hombre de Fuego” by José Clemente Orozco at Hospicio Cabañas in Guadalajara

一直延伸到迪哥拉多大剧院高耸尖顶的彩色玻璃拼花窗由法国奥尔良Jacques和Gerard Degusseau所制。

卡瓦尼亚斯救济所内的《火之人》是José Clemente Orozco的代表作。

A bronze high relief by Benito Castañeda on the main door of the Templo Expiatorio del Santísimo Sacramento in Guadalajara 迪哥拉多大剧院的大门上有由 Benito Castañeda制作的青铜浮雕

我们的壮丽建筑巡游始于瓜达拉哈拉的历史城区，该区的建筑风格琳琅满目。墨西哥最古老的歌剧院 – 迪哥拉多大剧院为新古典主义风格，圣体赎罪殿为新哥德式建筑，包括圣塔莫尼卡教堂在内的不少小教堂外观呈现巴洛克风格，而瓜达拉哈拉大教堂则交织出新古典、巴洛克、丘里格拉的多重风格。建于 1791 年的卡瓦尼亚斯救济所是这座城市的一个亮点，占地 2.34 公顷，为全美洲最古老且最大型的医院之一，亦为绝美新古典主义风格的代表，多栋单层楼建筑和二十三个开放式天井之间以加顶通道和拱廊连接，不同元素塑造出美妙的平衡。这栋昔日的收容所及孤儿院如今成为卡巴纳文化中心，光建筑本身就被列入联合国教科文组织的世界遗产。除此之外，建筑内部的拱廊及拱形天花还有五十七幅由来自哈利斯科州的壁画家 José Clemente Orozco 绘 WE BEGIN OUR ADVENTURE in Guadalajara’s Centro Histórico to take in the architec-

tural splendor, which runs the gamut from the neoclassical style of the Teatro Degollado, the oldest opera house in Mexico, to the neo-Gothic style of the Templo Expiatorio del Santísimo Sacramento, to the baroque facades on many of the smaller parish churches, including the Templo de Santa Monica, to the stylistic patchwork of neoclassic, baroque, and churrigueresque influences brought together in the Catedral de Guadalajara. The crown jewel is the Hospicio Cabañas, which was founded in 1791 and is recognized as one of the oldest and largest hospitals in the Americas. Covering 2.34 hectares, the complex is another stunning example of neoclassical design, admired for the harmonious balance achieved in the collection of single-story buildings, the twenty-three openspace courtyards, and the covered passageways and arched arcades connecting them. The architecture alone would merit a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation for this former hospice and orphanage turned modern-day cultural center. But inside the

制的作品。我们一进入中殿，就站到圆顶正下方，抬头直视六十尺上方的《火之人》。画面中央是一名被火焰吞噬的男人，外围环绕着灰冷的人形，两者塑造出惊人的对比。接着我们绕中殿而行，视线仍持续盯着头顶上的壁画，《火之人》此时仿佛正痛苦地扭动身躯，跃升于受尽压迫的同伴之上。文化中心的导览员说：” 这里被誉为美洲的西斯廷礼教堂。” 他指出更多幅运用错视的作品，并向我们解释其他壁画蕴藏的意义。

José 运用绘画毫不留情地表现出对墨西哥悲惨过去的评论以及对理想未来的警示性憧憬 pride of jalisco

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Mariachis originated in Cocula, Jalisco, and spread throughout the country as a tradition of playing joyful, celebratory music at weddings. The bands typically wear outfits styled after the charro costumes and feature a combination of brass and stringed instruments including trumpets, violins, vihuelas (higher-pitched, round-backed guitars), and guitarróns (bass guitars). 墨西哥流浪乐队起源于哈利斯科州的科库拉，这个在婚礼上演奏欢庆祝音乐的传统传遍了整个国家。乐队通常会身穿墨西哥牛仔的服饰，使用铜管乐器和弦乐器，包括小号、小提琴、比维拉琴和低音吉他。

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Catedral de Guadalajara 瓜达拉哈拉大教堂

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chapel, painted onto the arched paneled walls and vaulted ceilings, are fifty-seven murals by the great Mexican muralist José Clemente Orozco. Upon entering the nave, we immediately move to stand dead center beneath the cupola and stare upward sixty feet at the Jalisco-born artist’s masterpiece, El Hombre de Fuego . The contrasting image of a flame-engulfed central figure encircled by bleak figures in grayscale is striking. Then, as we circumnavigate the room with our gaze trained upon the fresco overhead, the Man of Fire appears to writhe and rise above his downtrodden, suffering compatriots. “This is known as the Sistine Chapel of the Americas,” our guide from the Instituto Cultural Cabañas tells us, pointing out the optical illusions and explaining the meanings behind the other murals, and we quietly contemplate the brutal commentary that Orozco makes on Mexico’s tragic past and his cautionary vision of an ideal future free of all enslaving chains – political, social, economical, and even technological. Just a ten-minute stroll to the west is the Palacio de Gobierno, where a smaller though no less powerful collection of Orozco murals tells the story of

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– 解放政治、社会、经济、科技等任何形式的奴役枷锁。我们静默不语，思考着他透过作品传达的信息。往西边走十分钟就会抵达 ” 政府之殿 ”，此处也有 José 的壁画，规模虽较小，但影响力不亚于他的大型作品。这里的壁画讲述瓜达拉哈拉人在墨西哥独立战争中位居要角的故事，主阶梯上方墙面的一幅三联图中隐约有墨西哥独立之父 Miguel Hidalgo 的身影，他点燃了反抗西班牙统治的革命战火。他也出现在前国会厅的另一幅壁画上，画中的他带有帝王之气，在旗帜上写下 ” 自由 ” 二字，这幅作品呼应了他本人曾于该栋建筑宣布废除奴隶制度法令的事迹。我们穿过自由广场去感受另一种氛围，见证一间百年小酒店的历史足迹。Don Florencio

the important role Guadalajara played in the Mexican War for Independence. A triptych mural painted on the walls above the main staircase features a looming Miguel Hidalgo, the father of Mexican independence, igniting the flames of revolution against the Spanish. In the Ex Congreso (former Congress Hall), another mural depicts a regal Hidalgo writing “libertad ” (freedom) on a banner to represent his real-life issuing, from that very building, of a decree abolishing slavery. We cross the Plaza de la Liberación to uncover a different kind of history at a century-old cantina. When it was originally founded in 1921 by Don Florencio López Mariscal, La Fuente was just one of many cantinas proliferating in the city. In 1950, it survived an address change forced by then-Governor José de Jesús González Gallo’s project to widen the city streets. Years later, it survived a change in weekend business hours forced by new regulations enacted by then-Governor Agustín Yáñez. In the 1930s, it survived the banning of in-house gambling enforced by then-President Lázaro Cárdenas. And in the 1980s, it survived the newly allowed patronage of women, who until then had been prohibited entry to cantinas.

López Mariscal 在 1921 年开了 La Fuente 酒店，当时这只是城里其中一间多如繁星的小酒店。在 1950 年，当时的市长 José de Jesús González Gallo 计画拓宽城内道路，被迫搬迁的 La Fuente 存活了下来；数年后，当时的市长

Agustín Yáñez 颁布新法规，更动周末营业时间， La Fuente 熬过来了；在 1930 年代，当时的总统 Lázaro Cárdenas 下禁令，禁止店内聚赌，La Fuente 也挺住了；到了 1980 年代，La Fuente 见证了女人终于得以光顾小酒店的新时代。如今瓜达拉哈拉历史悠久的小酒店仅存五间，La Fuente 就是其中之一。政治家、记者、音乐家、艺术家、劳工和观光客都仍会到此光顾，在吧台前并肩饮酒。外头没有为初来乍到的人架起招牌，但一看到那台布满灰尘和铁锈的单车挂在酒吧上方，我们就知道没跑错地方。 pride of jalisco

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A bronze figure from “Los Magos Universales” by Alejandro Colunga in the plaza in front of the Hospicio Cabañas in Guadalajara

“La Reflexion” by Sergio Bustamante in Tlaquepaque 艺术家Sergio Bustamante的《La Reflexion》雕塑

瓜达拉哈拉卡瓦尼亚斯救济所前的广场摆放着Alejandro Colunga的铜制作品

Today, La Fuente remains standing as one of only five historic cantinas in Guadalajara and continues to draw regular business from politicians and journalists, musicians and artists, workers and tourists, who all happily rub shoulders and drink side by side at the bar. There is no signage outside to mark the location for newcomers, but a quick glance up at its legendary, dust- and rust-covered bicycle hanging in the arched alcove above the bar confirms that we’ve found the right place. We’ve arrived too early to behold for ourselves the raucous crowds lining the bar and crowding around tables to drink, sing, and dance along with the live music hosted most evenings. But even in the early afternoon, a handful of regulars still gather before the bar, and we take advantage of the relative calm to enjoy a cool beer with Rogelio Corona, who owned La Fuente from 1982 until recently, but still helps out to have something to do and to see his regulars. A true cantina, Corona tells us, serves beer or tequila – or beer with a side of tequila – and not much else. For fancy cocktails, we’ll have to go elsewhere. We have in our pockets a list of Guadalajara’s best cocktail bars, but we’re ready to venture beyond the city limits to see what we can find.

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我们来得太早，没看到人们在吧台和桌边随着现场音乐饮酒、欢唱、起舞的盛况。然而这里就连下午也有几个常客光顾，我们也好好利用这宁静的时光，和 Rogelio

Corona 一起喝杯啤酒。Rogelio 在 1982 年成为 La Fuente 的老板，直到前阵子才离开，但他仍会回来帮忙，消磨时间，也见见常客。

Rogelio 告诉我们，一间真正的小酒店只卖啤酒或龙舌兰酒 – 或啤酒配龙舌兰酒，若想喝精致的调酒只能去别处喝。我们手上有瓜达拉哈拉最经典的调酒酒吧口袋名单，我们也准备好了要去探索这座城市，看看能挖到什么宝。

The legendary bicycle hangs above the bar at the historic cantina, La Fuente, in Guadalajara. 瓜达拉哈拉历史悠久的小酒馆La Fuente的吧台上，挂着一台充满传奇的单车。

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J U S T S O U T H W E S T O F T H E C I T Y L I E S a Pueblo Mágico called Tlaquepaque, one of Mexico’s scattering of small, historic towns that have been officially recognized for their careful preservation of unique culture, traditions, and surroundings. We spend some time strolling down the lively pedestrian street of Calle Independencia and poking around the art galleries and artisan shops to admire the ceramics and pottery for which Tlaquepaque is known. Numbering among the shops and restaurants is the Instagrammable restaurant Casa Luna. Located in the center courtyard of an eclectic home furnishings store, the whimsical Mexican restaurant regularly updates its décor to reflect upcoming holidays and passing whim. “I like to surprise my guests with a unique experience – one that is always different and hopefully even more special each time they return,” says co-owner Enrique Ruiz. One day, the entryway is bestrewn with custom-made Patrón bees. The next week, the interior trees are hung with glass-blown hearts. When asked about the all-female band entertaining the guests with a rollicking rendition of “Tequila” by The Champs, he explains, “The other restaurants all have mariachi bands. We try to change it up.” From behind a bar that is cleverly built into the basin wall of the historic building’s original fountain, head bartender Sebastián Rodríguez draws inspiration from Mexican culture and uses Mexican ingredients to curate a growing cocktail list of original creations and reinvented classics. The base spirits are always Mexican in origin: mezcal, raicilla, sotol, and, of course, tequila.

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↖ “Talpa,” inspired by Casa Luna’s head bartender Sebastián Rodríguez’s hometown, features its famous guava juice with Patrón Reposado and Patrón XO Cafe. 调酒”Talpa”的创作灵感源自 Casa Luna首席调酒师Sebastián Rodríguez的故乡，他加入了当地著名的石榴汁，配搭培恩的金樽龙舌兰酒和XO咖啡利口酒。

瓜达拉哈拉的西南方有一座名为特拉克帕克的神奇小镇，是墨西哥少数在独特文化、传统、环境上的保存都备受赞誉的历史小镇。我们漫步在热闹的独立之街，逛了几个艺术展览和小店，欣赏特拉克帕克著名的陶瓷与陶器。在众多小店与餐厅中，有一家极适合拍照打卡的 Casa Luna，这家古怪的墨西哥餐厅位于一间混搭风家具店的庭院中央，平时会按照不同节庆和一时的兴致替换摆设。餐厅共同老板的 Enrique Ruiz 说：” 我喜欢带给客人独特的体验，每一次来都与众不同，希望他们再访时又能有更特别的体验。” 今天的装饰是在入口处撒满培恩的蜜蜂，下一周可能就换成树上挂满爱心状的吹制玻璃。当被问到，Enrique 答道：” 其他餐厅都用墨西哥为何要找全女子乐团来演奏热闹版的 The Champs 乐团经典名曲《龙舌兰酒》街头乐队，我们想试着做点变化。” 餐厅的吧台巧妙地架在古迹建筑原本的喷水泉墙上，吧台后的首席调酒师 Sebastián Rodríguez 运用墨西哥文化以及墨西哥食材，设计一系列原创以及重现经典的调酒，基酒都是墨西哥烈酒，包含梅斯卡尔酒、瑞希拉酒、索托酒，当然也少不了龙舌兰酒。 pride of jalisco

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→ In keeping with the eclectic décor, Casa Luna delights guests with their unique twists on the classics. Tequila replaces gin for a refreshing “tequila and tonic” with red fruits. In their take on the common street food called molotes, the corn-based dough is replaced with an Asian egg roll wrapper and stuffed with cochinita pibil, a marinated pulled pork from the Yucatán. And chapulines – grasshoppers toasted with garlic, lime juice, and salt – provide a deliciously tangy, salty, spicy, crunchy kick whether served on their own or sprinkled atop a molcajete of guacamole. Casa Luna 的装潢不拘一格，在经典美食上添加自家风味的做法更令人眼前一亮。以龙舌兰酒取代传统”琴汤力”调酒中的琴酒，并加入红果点缀。他们重新演绎街头小吃molotes，以亚洲蛋卷皮取代玉米面团，再填满 cochinita pibil（一种来自尤卡坦州的腌制猪肉）作为内餡。以大蒜、青柠汁和盐烤过的炸蜢不论是单独食用，还是撒在鳄梨调味酱中，都能带来浓郁、咸香辛辣的味道和酥脆的口感。

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“Milpero,” named after the miniaturized green tomatillo, features Patrón Silver, pineapple juice, milpero juice, celery bitters, and cascabel pepper and is served in a glass rimmed with tortilla salt. 这杯调酒以绿色小番茄“Milpero”为名，由培恩银樽龙舌兰酒、菠萝汁、小番茄汁、西芹苦酒和铃铛椒调配而成，盛装在以玉米饼盐抹边的玻璃杯中。

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Executive Chef Tomás Bermudez puts Mexican ingredients and flavors front and center at his Guadalajara flagship branch of La Docena, his New Orleans-style oyster shack that is currently ranked 41 on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. From left to right on the plank of grilled oysters: “A La Brasas” with butter, shallots, and parsley, “Ahumados Tabasco” of smoked oyster with Tabasco sauce, “Roquefeller Tradicional” with spinach and Parmesan cheese, and “Zarandeado” with achiote, lime juice, and Dijon mustard. 名厨 Tomás Bermudez 的新奥尔良风格牡蛎小屋 La Docena 在《拉丁美洲50最佳餐厅》中名列四十一，他在瓜达拉哈拉的旗舰店则以墨西哥食材和口味为主角。这盘牡蛎的口味有：（从左至右）涂有黄油、青葱和欧芹的 A La Brasas，烟熏风味配塔巴斯科辣酱的 Ahumados Tabasco，加入菠菜和帕玛森奶酪的 Roquefeller Tradicional，Zarandeado 则加了胭脂树籽酱、酸橙汁和第戎芥末酱。 PRIDE OF JALISCO

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UNDER ITS DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN, tequila can be produced in one of five Mexican states, but it is Jalisco that accounts for 99 percent of the total production and that boasts within its borders the historic town of Tequila, after which the spirit is named. To better understand the product that is Mexico’s pride and joy, we travel to Atotonilco El Alto to visit Hacienda Patrón and witness the science and art that transforms agave into premium tequila. The process begins with the selection of the highest quality blue agave – in other words, the sweetest agave from the Jalisco highlands, where the higher elevation provides the ideal growing conditions of a cooler climate and richer soil types to produce a smoother, fruitier-tasting tequila. For Patrón, the agave must

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龙舌兰酒有法定产区，墨西哥只有五个州能生产，而哈利斯科州贡献了 99% 的产量，龙舌兰酒的名字亦源于该州历史悠久的龙舌兰城。我们想更深入了解这款让墨西哥引以为傲的烈酒，因此造访 Atotonilco El Alto 的 Hacienda 培恩酒厂，亲眼见证龙舌兰蜕变为顶级龙舌兰酒的科学与艺术。制酒的第一步是先挑选最顶级的蓝龙舌兰，也就是哈利斯科州高地最香甜的龙舌兰，该地海拔较高，凉爽气候及肥沃土壤孕育出绝佳生长环境，酿出的龙舌兰酒风味顺口且果香四溢。培恩

At Hacienda Patrón, workers split the agave piñas into four segments and remove the tough, bitter-tasting core before packing them into brick ovens for a small-batch, 79-hour slow-cooking process. 培恩庄园的工人将龙舌兰芯切割成四份，并去除坚硬、带苦味的核心部分，再把它们打包至砖炉中，进入长达七十九小时的小批量慢速烹煮过程。

have a minimum sugar content of 22 percent, with an unusually high average of around 26 percent. When harvesting the agave, the jimadors are required to trim the piñas extra close in order to reduce the amount of plant material that imparts bitterness. Patrón’s exacting and uncompromising standards apply throughout the entire production process, from cooking, crushing, fermenting and distilling to bottling. In expanding production, they have preserved their artisanal, smallbatch process by replicating the original distillery setup and methodology using brick ovens, two-ton volcanic stone tahonas and roller mills, pinewood fermenters, and handmade copper pot stills. As a final touch, the tequila is poured into hand-blown bottles made by skilled glass artisans.

的龙舌兰糖度不能低于 22%，平均糖度是 26% 左右，较其他品牌高出许多。农夫在采收龙舌兰时也需把果实修剪得很干净，避免该植物的其他部分带来苦味。培恩制酒的严谨与高标准在整个产程中一览无遗，从烘煮、碾压、发酵、蒸馏到装瓶无一例外。在扩大生产之际仍保留少量制作的传统技法，复制原有的蒸馏设备及制程，运用窑烤炉、两吨重的火山石轮及辊轧机、松木发酵槽和手工打造的铜锅蒸馏器，制成的龙舌兰酒最后会装进玻璃工匠打造的手工吹瓶。 pride of jalisco

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FOR ONE FINAL EXCURSION, we make our way to Tonalá, a town celebrated for its arts and handicrafts, to visit the workshop of Hipólito Gutiérrez, one of Mexico’s most celebrated glassmiths. In 1996, he set a Guinness World Record for single-handedly glassblowing a 22-liter bottle and then immediately outdid himself the following year with a recordbreaking 32-liter bottle. In the HG Hipólito Gutiérrez workshop, fourteen workers gracefully weave around each other and a 1090°C central furnace in a dangerous choreography. Wielding long metal blowpipes topped with a glowing glob of molten glass, they roll the glass on a metal surface to cool the exterior before blowing a couple of puffs of air into the pipe to create a bubble. The glass is then inflated into a metal mold and shaped into a bottle. Finally, the neck of the bottle is squeezed and spun between a pair of tongs. The piece is then placed in a separate furnace to slowly cool over a couple of days. Sometimes, they insert a glass figure inside the bottle – Gutiérrez was one of the first glassblowers to do so when he made Porfidio’s famous blue cactus bottles – or add other unique design elements, like a stylish coil around the neck or a small, ornamental handle. He has also created new shapes, like the elegant, drop-shaped gota. “It is important to find something different,” he says. Where most other workshops have been making decorative glassware and slowly losing out to foreign competition and cheaper industrial factories, he has found steady business in creating his own line of high-quality bottles and shot glasses for souvenir shops and in producing unique works of art for premium tequila brands paying tribute to Mexican craftsmanship and artistry.

我们最后来到以艺术及手工艺品闻名的托纳拉，造访墨西哥著名玻璃工匠

Hipólito Gutiérrez 的工作室，他在 1996 年徒手吹制 22 公升大的玻璃瓶打破吉尼斯世界纪录，隔年又吹出 32 公升瓶，再次打破纪录。

Hipólito Gutiérrez 的工作室里有 14 位员工，他们优雅地穿梭于彼此之间，中间还有一座温度高达 1090°C 的熔炉，简直像在跳一支危险的舞。他们拿着长长的金属管，在金属台面上把管身末端烫得光亮的球状融化玻

With assistance from his daughter, Alejandra, Hipólito Gutiérrez handcrafts one of his iconic glass figurine bottles. Hipólito Gutiérrez正在女儿Alejandra的协助下，手工制作他的标志性玻璃瓶。

璃转一转，借以降低玻璃外表的温度，接着往管内吹气，形成气泡，把玻璃放在金属模型中充气塑成瓶状，最后用钳子挤压并转动瓶口。完成的作品会被置于另一个熔炉，缓慢降温数日。这些工匠有时会在瓶子内放玻璃塑像，或加上一些独特的设计元素，例如瓶口的线圈和美观的装饰用小把手。Hipólito 是最先开始将塑像放进玻璃瓶的其中一人，他在制作 Porfidio 知名的蓝色仙人掌瓶时就曾运用此技术，他也创造出崭新的形状，例如优雅的滴状瓶。

Hipólito 说：” 最重要的是要找到与众不同之处。” 大部分工作室都在制作装饰用的玻璃产品，客源因国外竞争业者众多与出现成本较低的工厂产线而逐渐流失，他却打造了个人品牌的精品瓶罐及小酒杯纪念品，并为顶级龙舌兰酒品牌生产独具特色的艺术品，从中获得稳定的订单量，也向墨西哥手工业艺术致敬。 PRIDE OF JALISCO

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HOME TOWN

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H O L I D AY S This summer, luxury hotels and resorts from Mainland China to Hong Kong to Macau are welcoming locals who are looking for some fun in the sun without roaming far from home. Any one of them would make the perfect retreat for a weekend jaunt, midweek escape, or lazy summertime getaway, and many are offering a tempting array of special deals.

如果想在这个暑期不出远门，都能挥汗一夏，不妨尽情投入中港澳豪华酒店与度假村推出的众多夏日优惠。不论是最完美的周末小旅行、周间忙里偷闲之乐或远离喧嚣的慵懒避暑胜地，总能找到最适合您的度假体验。

PRIDE OF JALISCO

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法云安缦

AMANFAYUN

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order of spaciousness. All feature courtyard or forest view, king-size bed, bathroom with twin vanities, air conditioning, under-floor heating, Wi-Fi, TV, sound system, and safe. A Suite adds a daybed and writing desk, and a Deluxe Suite also features a separate bedroom, dining area, and living area with sofa. Along the village’s enchanting Fayun Pathway are atmospheric eateries, the full-service Aman Spa, and a heated swimming pool. The Restaurant & Bar, tucked behind a grove of trees and overlooking a reflecting pool, offers expertly crafted cuisine blending tradition with contemporary Western flavors, along with a range of rare spirits, fine wines, craft beers, and classic and signature cocktails. The casual atmosphere of the Steam House makes it a relaxing place to enjoy local fare prepared by the most ancient and healthful of Chinese cooking techniques. The menu features favorites from Hangzhou and neighboring regions, with a focus on village-style steamed dishes. Guests may watch food being prepared in the semi-open kitchen or dine in the tranquil courtyard.

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+86 571 8732 9999 amanfayun@ aman.com

COURTESY OF AMANFAYUN (4 + PRECEDING PAGE )

F O R H A N G Z H O U ’ S ten million residents, a serene summer break is just a few kilometers away. Surrounded by tea fields, bamboo groves, and forested hills, Amanfayun Hangzhou resort offers a luxurious escape to timeless beauty. It lies hidden in a lush valley just west of West Lake, which has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Designed in the spirit of a traditional Chinese village, Amanfayun Hangzhou offers guests an authentic experience of the China of days gone by in a setting rich in the country’s cultural heritage and graced with surpassing natural beauty. The grounds are in walking distance of Lingyin Temple, founded in 326 AD, and within a pilgrimage circuit of seven ancient Buddhist temples. Stone pathways lead to forty-six serene dwellings, some more than a century old and all made with traditional materials, including clay tile roofs and floors of stone and wood. Works of fine calligraphy on the walls recall poets of old who were inspired by the area’s peaceful waters and pagodas. Guests may choose between Village Rooms, Village Suites, or Deluxe Village Suites, in ascending

HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

杭州名列中国七大古都之一，曾被马可波罗赞誉为 “ 天堂之城 ”。时至今日，这座曾是茶叶产地与丝绸贸易中心的城市已成为人们心目中最美丽的城市，有着如诗如画的西湖、不胜枚举的佛塔、历史悠久的古刹、郁郁葱葱的庭园、占地广袤的湿地及远近驰名的龙井茶区。杭州法云安缦隐身于风景如画的山谷中，距离获选为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产的西湖仅有六公里之遥。整座酒店承继中国传统村落设计，让住客能完全沉浸在古中国风韵里，不仅历史文化底蕴深厚，更有宜人的美景点缀。从酒店庭院沿着一条朝圣古道步行，便可前往邻近的七座名寺古刹，建于公元 326 年的灵隐寺便为其中之一。石径一路延伸至四十六处静僻的古朴居所，有些已淡看人间百年，屋顶以砖石土瓦、室内以石板木梁建成。粉墙上妆点的书法作品妙笔生花，令人不禁遥想这里的潺潺流水与寺庙炊烟，曾吸引多少诗人来此畅饮作诗，陶然而醉。宾客下榻于此，可按空间宽敞程度选择村庄客舍、村庄套房或豪华村庄套房，全都配有庭园或森林景致、特大床、双梳洗台、空调、地暖、无线网路、电视、音响系统、保险柜。村庄套房还提供长榻和书桌，豪华村庄套房则再多一套卧室、餐厅与含沙发的起居空间。沿着酒店如诗如画的法云径蜿蜒步行，不远便可抵达古色古香的餐厅、顶级的水疗中心及温水游泳池。餐厅及酒吧掩映于青葱树林间，与水光倒影的泳池相映成趣。在此可品尝中西合璧的精致美食，以及各式稀有烈酒、上等葡萄酒、精酿啤酒与经典特色鸡尾酒。蒸菜馆气氛悠然闲适，最适合品味用古老养生的中式技艺所烹调的当地佳肴，包括杭帮菜及周边各地村落的招牌菜式，蒸菜肴馔尤为一绝。宾客可在半开放的厨房内观摩古法，亦可于静谧的庭院中享用餐点。

• HANGZHOU

HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

• HANGZHOU

杭州西子湖四季酒店

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HANGZHOU AT WEST LAKE

AN I N T I MAT E V I L LAG E on a legendary lake makes an ideal summer escape from the bustle of Hangzhou. Four Seasons Hangzhou at West Lake is nestled in a corner of the UNESCO World Heritage site of West Lake, just a few kilometers from the center of the city. This tranquil urban resort, inspired by the Song dynasty, features pagoda-style pavilions and terraces set in lushly landscaped Chinese water gardens with bamboo and willows, secluded pathways, and misty lagoons. The luxe accommodations include spacious guest rooms, elegant suites with separate living areas, and luxury villas with private Chinese-style gardens. Guests awaken to views of mountain peaks, ancient temples rising from the greenery, and waters that have enchanted poets and emperors through the centuries. A relaxing cup of Longjing tea in the Lobby Lounge may lead to a leisurely bicycle tour of the national cultural treasures of West Lake’s Gushan Hill area. Body and soul are soothed at the SPA, a contemporary oasis

这个紧邻著名西湖的角落，景色秀

featuring floating walkways, intricate carvings, and circular doorways reminiscent of a futuristic Chinese palace. The SPA offers a well-crafted menu of traditional and innovative treatments, including the restorative String Resonance Massage and the fragrant Dragon-Well Tea and Jade Spring Ritual. Dining options include Jin Sha, the resort’s award-winning signature restaurant featuring authentic Jiangzhe dishes. Its eleven private dining rooms offer magnificent views of the garden. WL Bistro puts an eclectic modern twist on European cuisine. The sweeping view of the infinity pond and West Lake from its outdoor terrace makes a perfect backdrop to breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

帝王将相。宾客在酒店大堂啜饮一杯舒心的龙井茶后，可

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丽宜人，正是逃离杭州喧嚣的最佳避暑胜地。杭州西子湖四季酒店坐落于获选为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产的西湖一角，距市中心仅数公里。这座清幽的度假村以仿宋风格兴建，郁郁葱葱、湖光水色的中式庭园被竹林杨柳环抱，僻静小径蜿蜒而过，湖上氤氲缭绕，佛塔般的楼阁与阳台矗立其间。如此尊荣的度假酒店提供三种房型：宽敞的客房、有独立起居区的典雅套房与雍逸气派且独享私人中式庭院的别墅。

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+86 571 8829 8888 www.fourseasons.com/ hangzhou

望着眼前层叠起伏的山峦、从树丛后方冒出头的古刹及诗情画意

再沿着西湖孤山来趟悠闲的自行车之旅。灵感源自中国古代宫殿、风格却前卫创新的水疗中心可谓当代绿洲，穿梭于水上走廊、精致雕刻与环形门廊之间，在此绝对能让您放松身心，焕发神采。水疗中心提供精心设计的传统与创新理疗服务，包括琴弦共振按摩和芬芳的龙井翡翠春茶浴。酒店的金沙厅是获誉无数的招牌食府，提供正宗江浙佳肴，十一个私人雅间坐落在荷塘庭园之间，绝美景致尽收眼底。兼容并蓄的西湖餐厅则为欧陆料理增添一抹现代风格，透过露天阳台可饱览西湖风光，总算不负这江南美景。

COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HANGZHOU (2)

的湖景，宾客仿佛化身数世纪以来歌咏美景的文人墨客与

HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

• SUZHOU

苏州 W 酒店

COURTESY OF W SUZHOU (4)

W SUZHOU

THE CIT Y OF SUZHOU in China’s Jiangsu Province has been fittingly described as heaven on earth for its lavish and graceful gardens. They, along with the refined nobility who built them, are the stuff of legend. With annals dating back twenty-five centuries, Suzhou was one of the first cities in China to be designated a national historic and cultural site. Today, W Suzhou offers a unique reinterpretation of these ancient traditions and treasures. With its contemporary glass exterior and striking interior and lighting designs, W Suzhou has become the latest landmark in a city filled with them. Not just a hotel, W Suzhou was conceived as an artistic statement. Every corner is designed to catch the eye and prompt the imagination. The water features, stately stones, and elegant arching walls that make up Suzhou’s historic pavilions all find their place here, reimagined with a touch of fantastical whimsy that leaves them hanging in mid-air, apparently in defiance of gravity. Every W Hotel seeks to provide an experience that is both ultra-fashionable and pleasantly surprising. This summer, W Suzhou is carrying on that vision by offering a series of activities and events aptly named A Summer’s Dream. Activities include terrace parties that kick off at sunset, immersing guests in a summer fantasy complete with music, wine, and a light show. Summer-themed wedding parties and banquets offer a new twist on tradition and an unforgettable way to celebrate the moment. JUMA Fashion Night offers an in-depth look at the designer duo’s latest fashion lineup. Guests can stretch away yesterday’s fatigue at on-site yoga classes, and no one should miss W’s specially designed guided Daydream Tours that make it fun and relaxing to explore and experience Suzhou’s charms to the fullest. In a city filled with culture and romance, W Suzhou has discovered the most delightful ways to turn the season’s heat into the coolest of summer’s dreams.

位于江苏省的苏州有 “ 人间天堂 ” 的美誉，有近 2500 年的历史，更是首批国家历史文化名城之一。苏州给人的印象是一位在江南水乡漫步的大家闰秀，而苏州 W 酒店以摩登的玻璃、灯光及其他时尚元素，诠释当地的传统文化，为这座城市带来活力和个性。苏州 W 酒店宛如一件璀璨的艺术品，每个角落都充满巧思，苏州古典园林的水、石、亭、墙和门洞元素轻轻地漂浮于空中，以展现其极富现代感和创意的设计特点。

W 一直致力于为宾客打造特立独行的生活方式和别具一格的潮玩体验。为了击退炎炎夏日的闷热感，苏州 W 酒店推出一系列 “ 幻梦一夏 ” 精彩活动，带领宾客投奔愉悦的盛夏。日落狂欢池畔派对以音乐、美酒、光影，精心编织一场夏日幻梦；打破传统界限的炫新宴会秀场为一众新人带来颠

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覆固有模式的潮流婚礼；前卫环保的 JUMA 概念时尚之夜充

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盈着能量和活力；日出瑜伽让宾客拉伸舒展、解放一身疲惫；精心设计的 W 时讯达人城市探索之旅则让参加者发掘姑苏的独特魅力。在这个古典浪漫的城市，W 酒店披上精致的戏服，上

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+86 512 6988 7777 www.w-suzhou.com

演潮流炫目、别具韵味的 “ 幻梦一夏 ” 戏码，让宾客恣意享受缤纷的色彩和精彩的活动，告别夏日酷暑。 pride of jalisco

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HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

• SHANGHAI

璞丽酒店

THE PULI HOTEL AND SPA SHANGHAI’S FIRST urban resort hotel and spa offers guests – including locals looking for a luxurious and refreshing summertime break – a relaxing oasis within the fastpaced metropolitan ambiance. Overlooking the greenery of Jing’An Park , The PuLi Hotel and Spa features an environmentally friendly design that employs traditional cultural features in contemporary ways. A distinctively Chinese flavor synthesizes with a cosmopolitan outlook, seamlessly blending Eastern and Western elements. With more than two hundred spacious and lavishly appointed guest rooms and suites, The PuLi Hotel and Spa offers guests a handcrafted luxury experience, with customized round-the-clock services. Located on level three and adjacent to the hotel’s heated infinity pool and state-ofthe-art Health Club is UR SPA, a sumptuous and tranquil sanctuary from the stresses of everyday life. UR SPA blends modern science and ancient healing to harmonize the mind and body with a profound sense of well-being. It offers a comprehensive range of targeted, tailor-made, and result-driven treatments, from express thirty-minute sessions to whole-day rituals of pampering indulgence. Taste buds get pampered at the hotel’s three luxe F&B options. Garden Terrace offers chic afternoon tea and a stylish happy hour. The thirty-two-meter Long Bar features wine and Champagne selections, sophisticated handcrafted cocktails, and refreshments. PHÉNIX Eatery & Bar, where “life is about the ingredients,” offers a charming invitation to reconnect with the essentials. Executive Chef Pierrick Maire showcases French cuisine inspired by the richness of natural seasonal products, including charcuterie and fresh oysters, original vegetarian dishes, and creative meat and seafood offerings. The intimate bar and lounge area focuses on classic cocktails and wines.

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上海首家都市度假酒店璞丽酒店，是步调紧凑的大都会中一片舒缓身心的绿洲，让当地人都可享受一趟奢华的居停体验。璞丽酒店俯瞰静安公园的翠绿美景，建筑采环保设计，以当代手法融入传统文化元素，别具一格的中国古典风骨架，搭配都会时尚的外观，东西合璧之美展露无遗。璞丽酒店拥有逾两百间宽敞且装潢豪华的客房与套房，给予宾客最细致尊荣的住宿体验与 24 小时专属服务。位于酒店三楼、紧邻无边际恒温泳池与顶级健身中心的遥水疗，是一处让人逃离凡尘 COURTESY OF THE PULI HOTEL AND SPA (4)

琐事纷扰、丰盛而安宁的避世之所。遥水疗结合现代科学与古法护理，使身心达到和谐平衡。遥水疗提供各式各样满足宾客不同需求、以结果为导向的水疗护理，有 30 分钟的快速护理，也有一整天的深度放松之旅。身心舒泰后也请犒赏自己的味蕾。酒店有三家高档食肆任君挑选：在露天花园享用精致下午茶与时尚雅致的畅饮欢乐时光，或在长吧与好友举杯酌饮种类齐全的葡萄酒与香槟、特调鸡尾酒与轻食。米其林一星餐厅斐霓丝餐厅酒吧 “‘ 料 ’ 理生活 ” ，令人垂涎的佳肴美馔提醒着宾客回

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归本味精髓。行政总厨 Pierrick Maire 以丰富优质的当令天然食材呈献法式料理，包括熟食

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冷肉盘与新鲜生蚝、原创蔬食、创新烹调的肉类与海鲜，还设有一个结合酒吧与休闲功能

+86 21 3203 9999 information@thepuli.com

的酒廊，提供经典鸡尾酒与葡萄酒。

pride of jalisco

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上海宝格丽酒店

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+86 21 3606 7788 sha.reservation@bulgarihotels.com

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SUMMER PLANS ARE REIMAGINED with Bvlgari Hotel Shanghai’s staycations series, available now through December 30. The collection of exceptional experiences, designed to provide a luxurious getaway without ever leaving the city, offers five unique late-check-out packages, each created in Bvlgari’s distinctively lavish style: B.Beautiful is a regenerating one-night escape designed for best friends. The Spa experience includes the Darphin facial, followed by B.Bubbly Champagne cocktails and snacks at La Terrazza. The next day offers a private jewelry tour at Bvlgari boutique and Afternoon Tea. B.Family is a relaxing one-night kid-friendly adventure that includes a chocolate-making workshop, an outdoor picnic, family dining, all-day breakfast, and more. B.Active is a one-night escape that balances mind and body with personal training sessions. B.Bubbly Champagne cocktails and snacks at La Terrazza, healthy all-day breakfast, and an in-room Detox Bath are all part of the relaxing experience. B.Indulged is a one-night getaway, designed to celebrate the art of living well. It includes B.Bubbly Champagne cocktails and snacks at La Terrazza. The following day offers all-day breakfast and a leisurely dim sum lunch. B.Private is a one-night stay in a Bvlgari Suite with B.Bubbly Champagne cocktails and snacks for up to six pax at La Terrazza Cabana, as well as dinner at Il Ristorante Niko Romito. Also enjoy a Himalayan Salt Polish treatment, all-day-breakfast, and a dim sum lunch for up to six at Bao Li Xuan.

COURTESY OF BVLGARI HOTEL SHANGHAI (5)

BVLGARI HOTEL SHANGHAI

HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

• SHANGHAI

炎夏已至，即日起至十二月三十日，上海宝格丽酒店打造的 “BVLGARI STAYCATIONS” 计划让您身在上海即能拥有豪华度假体验。五个独特的延迟退房套餐都是以宝格丽独有的奢华大气风格打造而成的尊荣体验：

B.Beautiful 是专为闺蜜设计的乐享假期，包括朵梵双人脸部护理、于 La Terrazza 享用 B.Bubbly 系列香槟鸡尾酒及小食，第二天还可在宝格丽精品店享受专人珠宝导览及品味 II Bar 下午茶。

B.Family 是一趟亲子轻松冒险之旅，有自制巧克力工作坊、户外野餐、上海总商会专属导览、家庭飨宴及全日早餐等精彩内容。

B.Active 是个让您平衡身心的焕然舒心假期，有私人体能训练课程、于 La Terrazza 享用 B.Bubbly 系列香槟鸡尾酒及小食、全日早餐及客房内排毒净体泡浴，让您从里到外舒缓放松。

B.Indulged 是两天一夜颂赞生活的意式假期，包括于 La Terrazza 享用 B.Bubbly 系列香槟鸡尾酒及小食，第二天供应全日早餐与悠闲的点心午餐。 B.Private 让您入住宝格丽套房一晚，并包括六位于 La Terrazza 私人包厢享用 B.Bubbly 系列香槟鸡尾酒及小食，Il Ristorante Niko Romito 双人品鍳菜单，享受专属于您的 “ 罗马假日 ”。另外还有双人喜马拉雅盐身体磨砂体验、全日早餐以及在宝丽轩享用六人点心午餐。

香港瑰丽酒店

ROSEWOOD HONG KONG ASAYA LODGE

food and beverage credit per staycation is included, valid at all Rosewood Hong Kong restaurants and bars. The Reset Staycation is priced at HKD7,600+ for one person and HKD8,800+ for two persons.

即日起至八月三十一日，香港瑰丽酒店邀请香港居民入住备受赞誉的 Asaya Lodge 特色套房，来一趟焕发身心、让感官充电的夏日焕活之旅！

Asaya 焕活住宿计划让宾客在酒店入住一晚，体验 360 度全方位康健身心的舒畅，解除压力、放松自我。您不仅可使用所有设施，还能获得 Asaya Lodge 套房专属的私人尊贵理疗服务。

Asaya Lodge 眺望舒适恬静的绿化庭园景观，最适合搭配沉思冥想、回复活力的量身订制康体疗程。每间套房均配备特大平面电视和一系列有关正念思维与健康饮食的精选丛书，设有一个设计精美的卧室与一套助眠床组，给您一夜疗愈好眠。另有一个衣帽间和设有独立浴缸与步入式淋

HKD 1,000

TK | pride of jalisco

浴间的大理石浴室，私人理疗室内有梳妆台与顶级按摩床，还有提供 Asaya

Kitchen 特制养生小食与饮品的个性化迷你酒吧。

Asaya 焕活度假计划包括一小时私人瑜伽与一小时正念冥想课程，均有专业老师指导，最后再享受一小时

Aroma Atelier 全身按摩，为这趟 24 小时的蜕变之旅画下圆满的句点。宾客在住宿期间绝不愁没有美馔

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+852 3891 8888 www.rosewoodhotels.com

享用，计划附赠 1,000 港币的餐饮消费额，在香港瑰丽酒店任一餐厅和酒吧皆可使用。

Asaya 焕活单人专属礼遇由 7,600 港币起，双人由 8,800 港币起。

COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD HONG KONG (2)

FROM NOW UNTIL AUGUST 31, Rosewood Hong Kong invites city residents to recharge their senses with an immersive Reset Staycation at an Asaya Lodge, the hotel’s acclaimed integrated wellness destination. The Reset Staycation, a one-night escape tailored for 360-degree wellness and enhanced relaxation, includes indulgent experiences designed to soothe and revitalize. It offers access to Asaya’s full range of amenities, in addition to the plush comforts of a private Asaya Lodge. Asaya Lodges, with light, calming views of the lush green courtyard, are perfect for contemplative, regenerative stays in conjunction with a custom treatment program. Each lodge features an extra-large TV, a curated selection of books to encourage mindfulness and journaling, a well-appointed bedroom with a sleep kit to promote healing sleep, a dressing room, a marble bathroom with soaking tub and walk-in shower, and a private treatment room with a vanity and state-of-the-art massage bed. A personal bar offers homemade wellness-oriented snacks from Asaya Kitchen. The Reset Staycation includes a one-hour private yoga class and a one-hour meditation and mindfulness session with expert practitioners. An hour-long Aroma Atelier body massage completes the twenty-four-hour transformation. To ensure delicious fare throughout the stay, an

HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

• HONG KONG

香港JW万豪酒店

JW MARRIOT T HOTEL

WITH THE SUMMER FAMILY FUN PACKAGE at JW Marriott Hotel Hong

COURTESY OF JW MARRIOTT (2)

Kong, families embark on a fun-filled journey sure to leave lasting memories of precious moments together. Valid from now until September 30, the offer is priced from HKD2,700+ per night for two connecting rooms with one king and two double beds. The thirty-hour stay with flexible check-in and check-out means more time for more fun. Perks include stunning views, an impressive gourmet experience, access to the 24-hour fitness center, and limitless leisure at the relaxing outdoor pool in a setting of lush greenery. Irresistible food and beverage features include a daily buffet breakfast for up to four at JW Café, a selected bottle of wine in the room, selected drinks and refreshments by the pool, and a dining credit of HKD1,500 for Sunday– Thursday check-in or HKD1,200 for Friday or Saturday check-in. In place of the credit, guests may choose all-day access for up to four to the Executive Lounge’s epicurean delights, including afternoon tea, all-day nonalcoholic beverages, and evening cocktails with hors d’oeuvres. The dining credit may be used toward a lavish lunch or dinner buffet at JW Café, an elegant afternoon tea or Sunday Champagne brunch at The Lounge, a romantic seafood dinner at the Fish Bar, authentic Cantonese fare at Man Ho Chinese Restaurant, a weekday lunch or dinner at Flint, or 24-hour room service.

香港 JW 万豪酒店推出 “ 夏日缤纷家庭乐 ” 住宿优惠，让大人小孩踏上充满乐趣的旅程，创造珍

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+852 2810 8366 jwmarriott.hk@marriotthotels.com bit.ly/SummerFamilyFunPackage

贵回忆。即日起至九月三十日，可享由每晚 2,700 港币起的优惠价，入住设有一张特大双人床与两张标准双人床的两间连通房，更可在 30 小时内弹性入住与退房，让全家人有更多自由玩乐的时间。除了客房外的壮丽美景，住宿优惠还包括豪华飨宴、使用 24 小时健身房，以及在绿荫环绕的室外泳池暢泳。令人垂涎的佳肴美馔包括 JW 咖啡厅每日供应的自助早餐、客房内的精选葡萄酒、池畔特选饮品轻食等等。若入住时间为周日至周四，宾客可享有 1,500 港币的餐饮消费额，周五或周六入住则为 1,200 港币。若不使用餐饮消费额，您可选择享用行政贵宾室的精致餐食，包括下午茶、全日供应的非酒精饮品、傍晚供应的鸡尾酒与琳琅满目的开胃小菜。餐饮消费额可用于 JW 咖啡厅的高级自助午餐或晚餐、

The Lounge 的丰盛下午茶或周日香槟早午餐、Fish Bar 的浪漫海鲜晚餐、万豪中菜厅的正宗粤菜、Flint 周间的午餐或晚餐，或选择全天客房服务。 pride of jalisco

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永利澳门与永利皇宫

WYNN MACAU AND WYNN PALACE AMANFAYUN

Five-Star restaurant. The stunning Forbes Five-Star Spa at Wynn Palace offers an indulgent and invigorating respite, and The Salon is the perfect place for a relaxing day of styling and attentive service from head to toe.

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即日起至八月十五日，永利推出澳门人专享的悠然夏日套房礼遇，给您恣意优游于各种味与美的极致享受，展开一场身心疗愈之旅。永利拥有福布斯五星荣誉盛名，不论入住永利澳门或永利皇宫，夏日限时专属住宿均由 2,888 港币起，包括免费升级至豪华套房、每房 1,000 澳门币餐饮与 800 澳门币水疗或美发消费额，可于中午提早入住及延后至下午五点退房，还有双人客房早餐等优惠。永利澳门的宾客可在荣获米其林二星评级的粤菜餐厅永利轩体验顶级广东美馔，或在福布斯五星级的帝雅廷意大利餐厅品尝世界级大厨的非凡烹饪艺术，然后到万利水疗中心或美发中心来场舒缓身心的尊贵享受。永利皇宫的永利宫演绎正宗高级粤菜，已连续两年获得《亚洲 50 最佳餐厅》殊荣，还有绝不能错过的福布斯五星级餐厅永利扒房，精彩的剧场表演给您视觉与味觉的双重享受。永利皇宫宛若宫殿的水疗中心荣获福布斯五星大奖，为您洗尽烦嚣与压力，平衡身心；美发中心为您打造尊贵时尚的造型，让您绽放气质魅力。

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• wynnmacau.com wynnpalace.com

COURTESY OF WYNN MACAU AND WYNN PALACE (2)

FROM NOW through August 15, Wynn is offering exclusively to Macau residents its Summer Suite Escape, an 法云安缦 indulgent resort getaway of gourmet delights and rejuvenating experiences. Featuring Wynn’s famous Forbes Five-Star hospitality, these sumptuous stays at either Wynn Macau or Wynn Palace are priced from HKD2,888+ and include complimentary room upgrade to a lavishly spacious suite, an MOP1,000 dining credit per room, an MOP800 spa or salon credit per room, early check-in at noon and late checkout at 5:00 p.m. the next day, an in-room breakfast set for two, and much more. At Wynn Macau, guests may dine on award-winning cuisine curated by world-class chefs at two-Michelin-star Cantonese restaurant Wing Lei or at the Forbes Five-Star Ristorante il Teatro. And they can escape to the Spa at Encore or The Salon for a luxurious experience designed to ease mind and body. At Wynn Palace, extraordinary Cantonese cuisine awaits at Wing Lei Palace, which has garnered Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants rankings for two consecutive years. And theatrical dining is on the bill at SW Steakhouse, a Forbes

HOMETOWN HOLIDAYS

• MACAU

美狮美高梅与澳门美高梅

MGM COTAI AND MGM MACAU EXCLUSIVELY FOR MAC AU RESIDENTS, MGM Cotai and MGM Macau are elevating the mini-getaway experience. Their hotel and spa offerings are perfect for luxurious and leisurely unwinding under the lazy summertime sun. From now until August 30, staycation offers at both resorts include overnight accommodation for two with in-room breakfast and a food and beverage credit of MOP800 for each room night, to be enjoyed during the stay. The Foodcation Moment offer at MGM Cotai starts at MOP 1,288+. The Delicacy Stay Special at MGM Macau starts at MOP1,388+. Staycation guests en joy free access to the hotels’ swimming pools and other fitness facilities. And they may pamper their palates at MGM ’s diverse collection of stellar restaurants and rejuvenate mind and body in the opulent surroundings of Forbes FiveStar Tria Spas.

美狮美高梅与澳门美高梅酒店为本地居民量身打造极致度假体验，不论是豪华住宿或舒心水疗，都是您逃离酷暑慵懒放松的不二之选。即日起至八月三十一日，这个限时住宿优惠专案在两家酒店均提供双人住宿一晚及客房早餐，每房每晚还赠送 800 COURTESY OF MGM COTAI AND MGM MACAU (3)

澳门币的餐饮消费额，让您住宿期间享尽口福。美狮美高梅酒店的 “ 味历住宿礼遇 ” 最低仅需 1 ,288 澳门币，澳门美高梅酒店的 “ 逸．味住宿礼遇 ” 最低仅需 1,388 澳门币。住客可免费使用酒店泳池及其他健身设施，还可在美高梅多家星级食府犒赏自己的味蕾，以及在荣获福布斯五星殊荣的禅潺水疗的尊贵气氛环绕下回复身心光彩。

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+853 8802 1888 • www.mgm.mo MGM’s one-day mini-escape option, offered from now until July 31, is the “Macau Ready Go” Relaxation Special, which features an indulgent session with the expert therapists at MGM Tria Spa. Me-Time, priced at MOP888+, includes a 60-minute TRIA Sleep Deeply Massage for one, a swimming pool entrance pass for one, and an MOP200 dining voucher. Relax Together, priced at MOP1,788+, includes a 60-minute TRIA Sleep Deeply Massage for two, a swimming pool entrance pass for two, and an MOP500 dining voucher.

即日起至七月三十一日，于“澳门心出发”平台领取专属优惠码，可在美高梅体验放松专案，让禅潺水疗专业理疗师献上五星级服务，令您的身心焕然一新。单人套餐由888澳门币起，包括60 分钟单人深层睡眠按摩、单人泳池通行证以及200澳门币餐券。双人套餐由1,788澳门币起，包括60 分钟双人深层睡眠按摩、双人泳池通行证以及500澳门币餐券。 pride of jalisco

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PRESENTED BY DOM PÉRIGNON

勇哉佳酿

valiant vintage A Champagne born of sacrifice reveals its generous nature.

2010 年对法国香槟区而言是相当反常的一年：冬寒春凉，夏天干热，夏季尾端时突 Champagne region: a chilly winter, a cool spring, and 然迎来暴雨，许多葡萄藤遭淹没，收成大 a hot, dry summer that finished with a deluge of rain, 受威胁。 drowning vines and threatening the crop. Dom Pérignon 的首席酿酒师 Vincent Chaperon, chef de cave of Dom Pérignon, Vincent Chaperon 回忆起那 recalls the harrowing event: “Over the week年惨况，他表示：“9 月 4、5 end of September 4 and 5, and despite no BY 日那个周末，还没有人意识到 one in Champagne having any concerns as LUCY MORGAN 灾难即将发生，但我们直觉 yet, we had an intuition that we might have 可能得牺牲某些葡萄藤，以 to sacrifice part of the harvest in order to 挽救顶级品质区块的作物，来酿制 Dom save the best parcels and try to make a Dom Pérignon vintage.” Pérignon 的年份酒。” 栽种酿酒葡萄必须随时做好面对极端 Being prepared for extremes of weather is essen气候的准备。葡萄种植讲究微理细节，深 tial in viticulture, a precarious craft that is eternally 受气候环境影响，稍有变化结果便截然不 dependent on the whims of nature. Fortunately, the 同。幸好当年 Dom Pérignon 团队及时在 team at Dom Pérignon was ready to take drastic action 黑皮诺开始出现因大雨损伤的迹象时采取 to rescue the prized pinot noir grapes, which were 措施，挽救了娇贵的葡萄。规划葡萄园时 beginning to show signs of damage from the heavy 的精准测绘，亦有助于团队立刻挑选出成 rains. Precise mapping of the vines across the property 熟度最高的葡萄藤区块。虽然牺牲了部分 helped the team to select those at peak maturity. And 葡萄藤，但是这些强降雨后幸存的葡萄， while a portion was sadly lost, those that survived the 堪称是酿酒师三十年间所见品质最顶级的 violent drenching were the best the winemakers had 珍品。 seen in thirty years. 这款年份酒由黑皮诺与霞多丽混合 The pinot noir blended beautifully with chardon调制而成，风味优美，且从一开始便展现 nay, and from the outset, the 2010 vintage showed 出不凡的和谐度与浓郁度，在熟成到产生 glimpses of harmony and intensity that would flourish 酒渣的过程更彰显出其卓越特质。Dom during maturation on the lees. The winemakers at Dom Pérignon 的酿酒师深知耐心非常重要，也 Pérignon, acknowledging the importance of patience, 了解每款年份酒都截然迥异，有些需要更 know that every vintage is different and that some 长时间的等待才会达至平衡。以这款年份 will take longer to achieve perfection. In the case of 酒来说，便耗费整整十年才臻至完美。 this particular vintage, reaching consummation took an 一场壮烈的牺牲及长时间的等待，成 entire decade. 就这款 Dom Pérignon 2010 年份香槟，其 Born of sacrifice and time, the 2010 vintage has 独特的热带水果果香与馥郁花香，揉合成 been worth the wait. A beguiling mix of tropical fruit and 迷人的香气。入口后有黑胡椒风味在口中 sensual floral fragrances on the nose becomes highly 蔓延，尾韵略带咸味，清新爽口，令人 aromatic, with notes of pepper on the palate, and fin不禁想再尝一口。暴雨劫后重生的 Dom ishes with a refreshing salinity that demands another sip. Pérignon Vintage 2010 年份香槟完美结合 Rescued from the waters, Dom Pérignon Vintage 2010 完整度、精准度、复杂度、浓郁度、细致度， marries integrity, precision, and complexity with intensity, touch, and an utterly gratifying completeness. 以及全方位的平衡。

COURTESY OF DOM PÉRIGNON

2 0 1 0 WA S A V E R Y U N U S U A L Y E A R in France’s

pride of jalisco

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PRESENTED BY CHABLIS

餐酒魔力

double magic A head chef and a chief sommelier conjure eye-opening pairings of Chablis and seafood.

“WHEN I GO TO FRANCE and have a seafood platter,” says

Olivier Elzer, culinary director of the Michelin-starred L’Envol at The St. Regis Hong Kong, “the first thought that comes to mind is to get a Chablis. As a Frenchman, when I think of Chablis, I think of seafood – it’s almost like a religion for me.” Fortunately, diners in Hong Kong don’t have to travel that far to indulge the same obsession for pairings that highlight BY the unique minerality, crisp freshness, and purity of MAMIE CHEN expression embodied in Chablis wines. “I know what • my customers are expecting when they come here,” PHOTOGRAPHY BY he says. “We use a lot of caviar, a lot of seafood, SAMANTHA SIN chicken, and white meats,” he says. “So Chablis definitely has a strong position at L’Envol.” Elzer’s brilliantly executed menu of contemporary French dishes is complemented by an extensive wine cellar curated by Chief Sommelier Tristan Pommier. “We have quite a nice selection of Chablis with a bit of diversity,” says Pommier, “from well-known producers like Jean-Marc Brocard to the smaller boutiques and rising stars like Patrick Piuze or Thomas Pico of Domaine Pattes Loup, who are making Chablis in very unique ways.” His wine list skews toward the Chablis Premier Cru appellation, with a healthy representation of both Chablis and Chablis Grand Cru domaines. But Pommier’s choices are driven more by the individual styles of the winemakers than by the broader characteristics of the wines from the four different appellations or even the specific Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru Climats . “Even within Chablis Premier Cru, the wines from twenty different winemakers could taste twenty different ways. And then every vintage is different,” he says. “That is the beauty of Bourgogne.” Elzer and Pommier work closely together to find pairings that strike the right balance, either by mirroring the wine to the dish, contrasting it against the dish, or finding an aroma or flavor – even a feeling – that acts as a bridge between the two. “Sometimes you encounter an enigma,” says Elzer. “A dish tastes very good, but it might be rich and need something to help balance it. I could find ingredients to input some acidity, but sometimes it’s nice to let the freshness come from the wine.” His signature L’Oursin D’Hokkaido features a layer of sea urchin covering the underlying gamberoni and crunchy fennel. The tastes and textures are a study in contrasts, with the acidity of the Menton lemon–marinated prawns cutting through the umami of the sea

TK | pride of jalisco

Olivier Elzer

香港瑞吉酒店 L’Envol 餐厅的餐饮总监 Olivier Elzer 说：“ 我每次在法国吃海鲜拼盘时，总是想到要点一瓶沙比利酒。对我这个法国人来说，沙比利酒和海鲜这个连结就如信仰一般。” 所幸香港的饕客想享用海鲜与沙比利酒的配搭，及其带出的独特矿物味和清爽口感，不必千里迢迢远赴海外。Olivier 表示： “ 我清楚顾客的期待，我们的料理使用大量鱼子酱、海鲜、鸡肉和白肉，因此沙比利酒在 L’Envol 有着非常重要的地位。”

Olivier 的当代法式料理风格持续升华，配上首席侍酒师 Tristan Pommier 选配的系列佳酿，更显相得益彰。Tristan 提及：“ 我们有一系列精选的沙比利酒，来源广泛，从知名的 Jean-MarcBrocard 酒庄到小型酒厂都有。此外还有近年来窜红的 Patrick Piuze 及 Thomas Pico of Domaine Pattes Loup 酒庄，他们酿制沙比利酒的方式相当独特。”

Tristan 的酒单中，来自沙比利一级葡萄园的占大多数，其中也有来自沙比利和沙比利特级葡萄园的酒品。他的挑选标准不是基于酒品出自哪个葡萄园，就算沙比利一级葡萄园

L’Oursin D’Hokkaido (Hokkaido sea urchin box, gamberoni, and crunchy fennel) paired with Chablis Premier Cru, Butteaux, 2017, Patrick Piuze 北海道海胆配红虾及香脆小茴香选配 2017 年 Patrick Piuze 比托沙比利一级葡萄园酒

“The uni from Hokkaido is a beautiful product,” says Pommier. “Sometimes we surprise our guests when pairing it with a Chablis, and they ask, why only a Chablis? But when you get the right one, it’s pretty mind-blowing. I think this combination really shows how well Chablis can pair with such beautiful products.” Tristan 表示：“ 北海道的海胆非常出色，有时宾客会对我们选配沙比利酒感到诧异，就会问 ‘ 为什么只配沙比利酒 ’，但一旦配到合适的沙比利酒，那个效果可说惊为天人。我觉得这组合就充分显示了沙比利酒足以与出色的食材完美搭配。”

PRESENTED BY CHABLIS

Impérial de Sologne de La Maison Nordique (Brittany razor clams à la marinière and pressed La Maison Nordique caviar cream) paired with Chablis Vieilles Vignes, Sainte Claire, 2018, Jean-Marc Brocard 法国蛏子配鱼子酱忌廉选配 2018 年 Jean-Marc Brocard 圣克莱儿老藤沙比利酒 “Because the Jean-Marc Brocard doesn’t use any oak, it has more purity with brighter fruit tones,” says Pommier. He finds that the Chablis’s freshness, acidity, and pronounced oyster minerality pair exceptionally well with the salty and nutty flavors in the caviar and with the cooked-in-white-wine razor clams. Tristan 说：“Jean-Marc Brocard 不使用橡木，所以酿出来的味道更纯，还带有明亮的水果香气。” 沙比利酒口感清爽且带酸味，生蚝般的矿物味也特别明显，这特性让沙比利酒尤其适合搭配鱼子酱的咸味及坚果风味和白酒煮蛏子。

及沙比利特级葡萄园的葡萄酒特性更广泛也好，他也倾向根据酿酒师的酿酒风格作出评选。他解释：“ 即使在沙比利一级葡萄园，二十个酿酒师就能酿出二十种味道的酒，每个年份又有不同的风味。这就是布尔冈的美丽之处。” 无论是餐点和美酒间的呼应或是对比，或是找寻能连结美馔与佳酿的气味、风味、甚至感觉，Olivier 和 Tristan 都透过密切的合作，探求最能平衡风味的搭 Tristan Pommier

配。Olivier 认为：“ 有时会出现这种不可思议的状态：料理非常美味，但也非常浓郁，需要某种味道来平衡。我可以用食材来增添酸味，但有时由酒来带出清爽的风味也很不错。” 他在招牌菜红虾及爽脆小茴香上铺放一层海胆，

urchin and the crunchiness of the fennel balancing its creaminess. 2017 Patrick Piuze Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux lends a dryness that arrives at the perfect balance. “We advise guests to take a sip of Chablis with every bite of uni ,” says Elzer. “That’s where the magic happens.” Of course, the sophistication and versatility of Chablis wines make them perfect partners for a variety of dishes beyond seafood. According to Pommier, the same Chablis Premier Cru also works wonders with Elzer’s roasted frog legs with tarragon, pastis custard, and tomatobutter sauce. The wine’s freshness cuts through the rich flavors of the custard and sauce and brings out the dish’s earthy tones. Pommier suggests an outside-the-box pairing of 2018 Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Chablis Vieilles Vignes with a starter of Brittany razor clams served with two textures of caviar. And to highlight the versatility of the Chablis, he also recommends it with the Le Pélardon de la Maison Mounier course from the Découverte menu for the way its fruit maturity enhances the aromas of the roasted Languedoc herbs and goat cheese. “In Hong Kong,” says Pommier, “we may have some of the most educated guests in the world in terms of wine, but sometimes the great terroirs and finesse of Chablis can be a real revelation to them.” He recalls serving a Château de Béru Chablis Clos Béru Monopole at a blind tasting and taking everyone by surprise. “They knew they were drinking something serious and went for big names in Bourgogne. When they saw it was a Chablis, they were amazed.”

营造出风味及口感的对比，蒙顿柠檬腌虾为海胆的鲜味增添一抹酸香，小茴香的爽脆也中和了海胆的细滑口感。Tristan 推荐选配的酒为 2017 年的 Patrick Piuze 比托沙比利一级葡萄园酒，当中的涩感为这配搭带来完美平衡。Olivier 说：“ 我们建议宾客每吃一口海胆，就啜饮一口沙比利酒－神奇的魔法就此诞生。” 除了海鲜，沙比利酒的复杂性和多样性使其成为各种菜肴的理想搭档。Tristan 说这款酒与 Olivier 的烤田鸡腿配龙蒿、茴香酒奶冻和番茄黄油酱也配合得天衣无缝，酒体新鲜清爽，中和了奶冻和酱汁的厚重，并带出菜式的泥土风味。若期待出其不意的搭配惊喜，Tristan 推荐这道将布列塔尼蛏子佐以两种不同口感的鱼子酱的前菜，并选配 2018 年的 Jean-Marc Brocard 圣克莱儿老藤沙比利酒。他也提议搭配 Découverte 菜单中 Maison

Mounier 的 Le Pélardon 奶酪，因为沙比利酒具有的成熟水果风味能让烤朗格多克香草和山羊奶酪的香气继续在口腔 “ 发酵 ”，进一步体现沙比利酒的多面性。

Tristan 表示：“ 香港有一群品酒程度达世界级的饕客，但沙比利酒绝佳的风土和精巧的品质并没有被太多人发现。” 他想起在某次盲饮时曾侍过贝鲁城堡密闭贝鲁的沙比利酒，让众人大为惊艳。“ 他们知道自己喝到的是很精致的酒，就猜测是某些大名鼎鼎的布尔冈酒品，后来看到其实是沙比利酒时都大吃一惊。” pride of jalisco

TK |

Taha Bouqdib

INTERVIEW

芬芳茶韵

of time and taste From its beginnings in Singapore in 2008, luxury brand TWG Tea has expanded to a global empire of elegant tea boutiques and salons. CEO and cofounder Taha Bouqdib talks to TK about his life’s passion. § 创自2008年的新加坡奢华茗茶品牌TWG Tea，旗下的沙龙与精品店遍布世界各地。品牌创立人兼首席执行官Taha Bouqdib与TK畅谈他对茗茶的热爱。

How did you get involved with tea? My encounter with tea happened in Paris when I was eighteen. I tasted a Chinese green tea, Lung Ching, that changed my life. My favorites now are Darjeeling – First Flush Black Tea and Pu-Erh from Yunnan. I want to give our customers the rarest and most exquisite teas, to make them an “affordable luxury,” so that everyone will fall in love with this wonderful drink.

What are TWG Tea’s signature products? Our most popular is the Haute Couture Tea Collection, which will remind you of the way fashion designers work. From picking the teas to blending them with luxurious ingredients to package design, the series has followed this approach.

What inspires you? In our travels to remote corners of the world, we find new ideas for the next tea blends and collections. New colors, aromas, experiences, and materials inspire packaging, design, tea names, and descriptions that appeal to our younger customers and provide novel experiences for tea lovers. For example, our Follow Me Tea reflects the story of the opera La Traviata and also evokes Valentine’s Day and the courtship of lovers.

caption 或

您是怎样与茶结缘的？我在 18 歲时和茶在巴黎邂逅。我品尝

名和诠释茶品等方面创造灵感，以吸引年轻一代的顾客，并为爱茶之人带来不同凡

了一口中国绿茶－龙井，它改变了我的一

响的体验。例如《Follow Me Tea》既影射

生。我现在最喜欢的是春摘大吉岭和产自

了茶花女的故事，也传达了情人节及恋人

中国云南的普洱茶。我希望将最稀有精致

之间的浪漫求爱。

的茶款带给顾客，让每位顾客都爱上美妙

Just how many teas do you offer? More than eight hundred from fortysix areas. Many are exclusive teas and unique blends with essences of fruits, flowers, spices – even chocolate and caramel.

What does tea mean to you? Tea is as precious as time and taste. It cannot be defined, it is fleeting but indispensable. I fell in love with tea when I was very young, and working in the world of tea that I adore is a source of endless happiness every day.

的茶饮。

TWG Tea 的产品众多，到底有多少款茶品呢？

TWG Tea 最受欢迎的商品是什么？我们最受欢迎的是高级订制茗茶系列。

我们拥有来自 46 个茶叶产区的 800 多种不同的茗茶，其中多款为独家茗茶，

它会让人想起时尚设计师的工作方式，一

也有把水果、鲜花、香料，甚至巧克力和

系列工作都遵循这一方式，包括挑选茶叶、

焦糖混合的特色调配茶。

与奢华原料进行调配，以及包装设计。

茶在您心目中代表着什么？您的灵感从何而来？

茶就像时间与品味一般珍贵，既无法

寻访世界各地的旅行带给我们很多研

定义、稍纵即逝却又不可缺少。我很年轻

发新品的启迪。各种色彩、气味、体验和

的时候就爱上了茶，能在喜爱的茶叶世界

材质都为我们在产品包装、外观设计、命

中工作，是我无尽快乐的泉源。 pride of jalisco

TK |

Lu Yang

WINE MASTER

发现新世界

discovering a new world Grapea & Co kicks off an ambitious project designed to introduce New World wines to China.

IN JUNE , China’s premier wine and spirits academy launched a series of events called New World Alliance. “The idea behind this project,” says Lu Yang, Grapea & Co’s founder and the world’s first Chinese honored with the title master sommelier, “is to integrate China’s formerly scattered understanding and efforts with regard to New World wines. These events will help energize the image of the producing regions, transforming them into something both iconic and recognizable, while also highlighting their many distinguishing aspects.” With New World Alliance, Grapea & Co brings together six New World producers: New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Chile, Argentina, and California. Lu’s visits to these regions a decade ago were the inspiration behind packaging them under one grouping, a convenient medium for introducing them to the Chinese market and its consumers through online courses and diversified offline channels. The project uses a 3D integration model in bringing an innovative sensory experience to China’s growing legions of wine lovers. New World Alliance is designed to help them open their minds to New World wines and be more receptive to exploring the unique wine cultures of the producing countries. The project also serves as channel for the dissemination and understanding of other important wine knowledge, hopefully a first step toward the integration of the Chinese wine industry. New World Alliance’s events, extending over a fourmonth period, will feature abundant online content, a starstudded lineup of speakers leading in-depth and entertaining curriculum, and a Master Sommelier competition. The intended result is the creation of a growing cultural community dedicated to the understanding and appreciation of highquality wines from every region of the world.

由全球第一华人侍酒师大师（Master Sommelier）吕杨创立的归普 (Grapea & Co.) 葡萄酒与烈酒学院于 2020 年 6 月 16 日正式启动新世界联盟（New World Alliance）项目。吕杨表示：” 這個项目的意义在于将中国过去对新世界葡萄酒分散的认知以及力量重新整合，让新世界葡萄酒产国的形象更加具象化、多面化。” 新世界联盟聚集 6 个新世界国家和产区，包括新西兰、澳大利亚、南非、智利、阿根廷及美国（加州）。当被问到创立新世界联盟的初衷时，吕杨谈及自己过去十年间走

These events will help energize the image of the producing regions, transforming them into something both iconic and recognizable.

这个项目能让新世界葡萄酒产国的形象更加具象化、多面化。访新世界国家的经历，这使他生出联合产区，以线上内容配合多元化渠道，将新世界产区的葡萄酒文化介绍给中国市场和消费者的想法。这一重磅项目以立体整合的模式为广大中国葡萄酒爱好者带来全新的感官体验，迈出了葡萄酒行业整合之路的第一步，让更多的中国葡萄酒爱好者能敞开心扉，探索产区特有的葡萄酒文化，也为了解相关葡萄酒知识提供了更便捷的渠道。在为期四个月的活动中，新世界联盟为中国葡萄酒爱好者准备了丰富的线上内容，明星讲师阵容打造一系列具深度及趣味的知识课程，配合项目尾期的新世界侍酒师大赛等活动，打造出一个致力于甄选更高品质的葡萄酒的文化社群。

pride of jalisco

TK |

WINE

闪烁英姿

sparklingly british On an ancient historic site, English sparkling wines achieve a new standard of perfection.

NYE TIMBER ESTATE traces its origins to Nitimbreha, the Anglo-Saxon name of a valley listed in the 1086 Domesday Book that is thought to refer to a timbered house or a timber plantation. The foundations of some of the buildings standing today date to the 1500s, when the land was owned by the church. After Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries, the property was seized by the crown and given to the king’s fourth wife, Anne BY of Cleves, as part of her annulment LUCY MORGAN settlement. The carefully restored buildings are surrounded by gardens filled with traditional English blooms, restful pools, and statuary by local artists. The vineyards on gentle slopes facing the English coastline are protected by the undulating hills of the South Downs. Vines have been growing at Nyetimber since 1988, when the former owners, keen to produce a British-grown sparkling wine, planted England’s first-ever chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier vines, the same varietals used in Champagne. Nyetimber’s wines are made according to the French méthode champenoise , which calls for secondary fer-

mentation in the bottle. The current owner, Eric Heerema, bought Nyetimber in 2006, when just eighty hectares were under vine. With an eye toward taking his wines in a new direction, he acquired two hundred hectares more, expanding across the three counties of Sussex, Hampshire, and Kent. The property’s diverse soils and climate variations, along with the notorious vagaries of English weather, express themselves in the grapes’ flavors and aromas, giving Chief Winemaker Cherie Spriggs and her husband, Winemaker Brad Greatrix, a range of characteristics to work with.

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Nyetimber Owner Eric Heerema and Chief Winemaker Cherie Spriggs. England’s unpredictable weather keeps the team busy, ensuring that grapes reach their true potential. 英国的天气难以预测，令Nyetimber庄主 Eric Heerema和首席酿酒师Cherie Spriggs 忙于工作，以确保葡萄展现其真正潜力。

WINE

From vineyard to bottle, precision is the watchword at Nyetimber. It makes all its wines from estate-grown grapes, unlike many other English wineries that supplement their harvests by buying grapes or juice. And to preserve the integrity of the brand, Nyetimber does not sell any of its own grapes or juice. “Climate variability is probably the main challenge of making wine in England,” says Spriggs. “We have to deal with complications like warmer-than-average winters or seasonal frosts in spring that can affect the growing cycle of our vines. A lot of work goes into reacting quickly to adverse conditions to protect the quality of our harvest as much as possible.” Airborne frost, for instance, which is one of the biggest threats to grapes, is countered by deploying outdoor heaters. Cooler weather can also show up as a powerful acidity in young English sparkling wines, a factor that must be tamed with longer aging. Nyetimber has its own state-of-the-art pressing room, where grapes are processed quickly after harvest to ensure that the juice remains in peak condition. Government regulations allow English sparkling wine to be released after just nine months of aging, and, out of financial considerations, many smaller vineyards take advantage of that. “At Nyetimber,” says Spriggs, “we age our wines for an extended period of time before release, ensuring that every bottle requires no further cellaring to be enjoyed.” In 2012, when the harvest was very poor, the team decided not to make any wine rather than produce one below their standards, which insist on a product both ready to drink and capable of improvement with aging. “It’s a point of personal preference as to when you’d like to open a bottle of Nyetimber,” says Spriggs, “but the structure of our wines allows for many years of development.”

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Nyetimber 庄园，其名源自 1086 年《末日审判书》上所提的盎格鲁

- 撒克逊山谷名 “Nitimbreha”，意指木屋或林地。园内部份建筑的原型可追溯至 16 世纪，当时土地均为教会所有。亨利八世解散修道院后，将其收归皇室，送给第四任妻子 Anne of Cleves，做为离婚补偿。庄园内精细修复的古建筑周围环绕着满是传统英国花朵的花园、气氛悠闲的水池与当地艺术家制作的雕像。而面朝英国海岸、位于平坦山坡上的葡萄园，则有南唐斯丘陵起伏的山丘保护着。

1988 年，前庄主决心制作一款英国本土酿制的气泡酒，于是种下英国第一株霞多丽、黑皮诺及皮诺莫尼耶三款香槟品种，自此让

Nyetimber 与葡萄结下深厚渊源。 Nyetimber 产制的酒以法国传统方法 (méthode champenoise) 酿造，需在瓶中进行二次发酵。

2006 年，现任庄主 Eric Heerema 买下 Nyetimber 当时仅

The lines and angles of Nyetimber’s historic manor house contrast beautifully with the gentle curves and arcs of its traditional gardens.

有 80 公顷的种植区域。怀着带领自家酒开拓新天地的愿景，Eric 买下另外两百公顷的农地，横跨萨塞克斯、汉普及肯特郡。土壤质地的不同、天候状况的变化，以及英国以善变闻名的气候形态，如实反映在产出的葡萄风味及香气上，让首席酿酒师 Cherie Spriggs 与其酿酒人丈夫 Brad Greatrix，得以利用这些特质善加调配。从庄园到酒瓶，Nyetimber 讲求 ” 精确 ” 二字。相较于其他英国酒厂额外购买外来葡萄或葡萄汁来酿酒，Nyetimber 的庄园酒百

Nyetimber历史悠久的庄园大宅棱角分明，与花园的柔和曲线和弧度形成鲜明对比。 • Nyetimber’s range of sparkling wines benefit from longer aging on the lees, to tease out the true flavors and aromas of grapes grown in this special terroir. Nyetimber的气泡酒在酒糟中长时间熟成，能真实反映生长在英国特殊风土中的葡萄风味和香气。

分百产自自家的葡萄园，同时为维持品牌价值，他们也从不外销自家葡萄或葡萄汁。

Cherie 说：” 气候的多变性大概是在英国酿酒的最大挑战，我们需要应付如暖冬、春霜等对葡萄生长颇有影响的复杂情况。我们投放大量精力在快速应对上，尽可能地确保葡萄品质。” 空气中的浮霜，就是葡萄的其中一位大天敌，只能在室外放置加热器来应对。较冷凉的天气，也会让刚酿出的英国气泡酒酸度大增，只好花更多时间熟成以去除酸度。

Nyetimber 拥有最先进的压制间，确保葡萄采收后能快速压榨，品质维持巅峰状态。政府规定英国气泡酒仅须经九个月熟成即可贩售。出于经济考量，许多小酒厂便顺应法规将轻熟酒快速售出。

Cherie 说：” 在 Nyetimber，我们会让葡萄熟成得久一些，让消费者一买到手就能立即开瓶、享受美酒。”

2012 年，庄园的葡萄产量极低，与其做出品质不佳、不能开瓶即喝、也没有熟成潜力的酒，团队决定不如就停产一年。Cherie 说：” 何时打开 Nyetimber 的酒，纯粹关乎个人喜好，若想放久一点再享受，我们的酒也完全没问题。” pride of jalisco

TK |

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EVENT

品味海上生活

living the life Asia’s premier boat and yacht exhibition puts the accent on maritime luxury.

THE SINGAPORE YACHT SHOW (SYS) celebrates its tenth anniversary edition by setting the stage for the best and latest in yachting – and for the glamorous on-water lifestyle that goes with it. For the first time, SYS, which runs October 15-18, moves almost entirely onto the water at the completely redesigned ONE°15 Marina Sentosa Cove Singapore. In its new pontoon configuration, the festive event will feature air-conditioned exhibition booths and showrooms around the entire perimeter of the marina. Visitors will be able to go straight to the heart of the action for an immersive, 360-degree experience. The four-day show will feature luxury lifestyle programming as well as family-friendly fun. Visitors can expect an impressive lineup of regional boating and yachting premieres and state-of-the-art yacht toys and products. A host of wellness and lifestyle exhibits from world-class brands and companies will showcase the latest indulgences, including state-of-the-art audio and video products, bespoke jewelry, exclusive artwork, yacht charters, specialty foods, and luxury real estate.

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新加坡游艇展将迎来十周年庆典，众多顶级先进的游艇船舶将在本次展覧会上亮相，呈现精采绝伦的海上休闲生活风貌。

2020 年新加坡游艇展将于 10 月 15 日至 18 日在全新设计的新加坡 ONE°15 圣淘沙湾滨海俱乐部举办，首次将展览场地搬到海上。透过崭新的浮桥设计，这场盛会的展览摊位与展馆分布于整个海湾，每个展区都配备舒适空调，让来宾能轻松享受 360 度的沉浸式娱乐体验。为期四天的盛会汇聚全球领先的豪华游艇品牌，同时结合趣味十足的家庭娱乐。参展的世界顶级游艇与周边商品阵容强大，众多知名的健康与休闲品牌齐聚一堂，展现最新的奢华生活风貌，包括一流的影音视听产品、订制珠宝、独家艺术展品、游艇租赁服务、精选美馔、豪华房产销售服务等。来宾除了能一睹壮观的游艇阵容，还会获

In addition to the spectacle of myriad yachts and superyachts on display, visitors will be treated to a glittering selection of yacht parties, forums, networking events, live demonstrations, lavish lunches, gala dinners, and high-end entertainment. Refreshing and refueling will take place in high style right next to the docks at pop-up bars and restaurants that will be serving an irresistible extravaganza of drinks, quick bites, and unique hipster delicacies.

邀参与琳琅满目的游艇派对、论坛、社交聚会、

The SYS team is working with the Singapore government to implement protective measures at this year’s show. Like every other event organizer, we are committed to fully protecting every single individual involved in any way at the show, including exhibitors, partners, sponsors, contractors, and, of course, our visitors.

新加坡游艇展的团队与新加坡政府携手合作，保

现场展秀、豪华午餐、正式晚宴以及各式高端娱乐体验。此外，展场配备精致高级的餐饮服务，专为此次展览所搭设的酒吧与餐厅就在码头边，提供各式令人难以抗拒的特调饮料、美味小点，以及独特的新潮美食，让来宾随时补充活力。

障展览现场安全，我们致力为参与本次展览的每个成员提供最全面的保护措施，包括厂商、合作伙伴、赞助商、承包商，以及所有到场的嘉宾。

Singapore Yacht Show 新加坡游艇展 15-18 October 2020 • ONE°15 Marina Sentosa Cove, Singapore 2020年10月15－18日 • 新加坡 ONE°15 圣淘沙湾滨海俱乐部 www.singaporeyachtshow.com pride of jalisco

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TK | PRIDE OF JALISCO

15 - 18 OCTOBER 2020

ONEÂ°15 MARINA SENTOSA COVE

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

5 Mexican

Av. México No. 2903, Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico q +52 33 3615 7400 Mon-Thu: 13:30-23:00 Fri & Sat: 13:30-23:30 Sun: 13:30-17:00

Atomic 5 Thai

Av. Américas No. 1254, Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico q +52 33 2672 1138 13:00-00:00

Crystal Garden 晶苑 5 Jiangzhe

Cuisine 301, 3/F, K. Wah Centre, No.1028, Huaihai Middle Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai 上海市徐汇区淮海中路1028号嘉华中心三楼301 q +86 5466 7187 Lunch: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: 17:00-21:30

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Casa Luna 5 Mexican

Calle Independencia 211, Tlaquepaque, Jalisco, Mexico q +52 33 1951 4735

08:00-01:00

L’Envol 5 Innovative

French 3/F, The St. Regis Hong Kong, One Harbour Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾径1号香港瑞吉酒店3楼 q +852 2138 6888 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 Closed on Sundays

La Docena 5 Oyster

Bar & Grill Paseo Andares, Zapopan, Jalisco, Mexico q +52 333 611 0452 Mon to Tue: 13:30-00:00 Wed to Sat: 13:30-02:00 Sun: 13:30-23:00

Le Pan 5 Inventive

French Ground Floor, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong 香港九龙啓祥道17号高银金融国际中心地下 q +852 3188 2355 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-21:30 Closed on Sundays

Social Table 5 Modern

Chinese One Xintiandi, Xintiandi Complex, Alley 181, Taicang Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai 上海黄浦区太仓路181弄上海新天地”新天地壹号” Dinner starts at 19:00 By reservation only

TWG Tea Salons & Boutiques in Mainland China No.220, Level 2, iapm Mall, Shanghai 上海环贸 iapm 商场, 上海淮海中路 999 号 iapm 环贸广场 2 楼 220 Tel: (021) 5466 1837 No.150A, Level 1, Grand Gateway 66, Shanghai 上海港汇恒隆广场，上海徐汇区虹桥路1号港汇恒隆广场南座150A Tel: (021) 3363 1837 No.D1121/ No.D4020, SKP, Beijing 北京 SKP 商场，北京市朝阳区大望桥东北角华贸中心内北京 SKP 1F D1121/ 4F D4020 Tel: (010) 5843 5345 No. 51/74, Level 4, Raffles City, Chongqing 重庆来福士广场, 重庆市渝中区接圣街8号04层51/74号 Tel: (023) 6366 1837

DAVID HARTUNG

Alcalde

DESSERT

“Rice pudding is in all Mexican homes, but I actually don’t like it,” laughs Paco Ruano, head chef of Guadalajara’s Restaurante Alcalde. His enhanced version is thicker and creamier in style and torched across the top, a hybrid between traditional rice pudding and crème brûlée. It is served with cinnamon ice cream and topped with soy milk flakes, caramelized white chocolate, and rice puffs.

DAVID HARTUNG

瓜达拉哈拉的Alcalde餐厅主厨Paco Ruano笑着说：”墨西哥家家户户都会做米布丁，但其实我不太喜欢。”他创作的新版本更厚重浓郁，表面经过炙烧，揉合了传统米布丁与法式烤布蕾的特色。另佐肉桂冰淇淋，并以豆浆碎片、焦糖白巧克力与碎米果装饰。

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THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

Nestled between the continental

wines with EU-protected designation

warmth and cool northern currents,

of origin. You can always spot them by

Austrian wines flourish in the heart of

the red-white-red capsule tops and the

Europe. These ideal climatic conditions

official quality wine check number on

foster the growth of noble and elegant

the label.

austrianwine.com