TK47 Road of Stories

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T A S T I N G 47

R O A D

K I T C H E N O F

S T O R I E S

SHANGHAI

On the Road Again 重返丝路 YUNNAN

Tasting Shangri-La 寻味彩云之南 MACAU

Sichuan, Contemporized 四川•当代

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T A S T I N G R O A D

47

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S T O R I E S

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

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Surrounded by desert, Crescent Lake and Pavilion lie in an oasis near the city of Dunhuang, a historic garrison and important stop for caravans traveling

T A S T I N G 47

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China’s ancient Silk Road. Today, the lake is popular with tourists, who are

S T O R I E S

offered ATV and camel rides across the sands.

SHANGHAI

月牙泉和月泉阁位于敦煌附近茫茫沙漠中的一片绿洲之上，风景如诗如画。

On the Road Again 重返丝路 YUNNAN

Tasting Shangri-La

这里是历史上驻军的要塞之地，也是古丝绸之路上的名城重镇。如今，月牙

寻味彩云之南 MACAU

Sichuan, Contemporized

泉开发了驾乘沙漠越野车或骑骆驼等穿越黄沙的体验活动，是广受欢迎的旅

四川•当代

游景点。

Photography by David Hartung TK47 Cover.indd 2

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TK | road of stories

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2020 All rights reserved

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Road of Stories, we take a culinary and cultural journey across China and along one of its most iconic historic trading routes, which linked the great civilizations of China and Rome.

Restaurateur Robin Yin has devoted his career to reviving the heritage of ancient Chinese traditions through folklore and recipes, and he chose the cuisine of Xian, the starting point of the Silk Road, as the beginning of his culinary exploration of regional specialities and spices from places all along the route, including Gansu, Xinjiang, and Mongolia.

Yin’s cuisine often goes beyond the original traditions, using imaginative presentation and an integrative process to skillfully combine old flavors with new techniques.

We then take a more modern journey, this time through Yunnan in a McLaren GT, to taste butter tea, barley cakes, and Tibetan hotpot stewed in a Nixi black earthen pot. Driving on, we pick mushrooms at the Naipi matsutake forest and enjoy a feast built around yak in all of its forms, and then finish with a leisurely glass of wine in the high mountains of the Ao Yun estate, surrounded by dense swirling clouds above and winding blue rivers below.

There are many other roads to explore within this issue, as well as some delightful detours – enjoy. 欢迎来到Tasting Kitchen。 本期《Road of Stories》是一趟中华美食与文化探索之旅，穿越了自古以来一条极具代 表性的贸易路线—— 把中国和罗马的伟大文明联系起来的丝绸之路。 花马天堂公司创办人之一尹维伯致力于通过民间传说和食谱来复兴中国古代传统。他 选择以丝绸之路的起始点—— 西安为基点，途经甘肃、新疆和蒙古，继续他探索区域特色 美食和香料的旅程。 在保留菜式的传统同时，他会以充满想像力的摆盘、”融合”的根本概念、崭新的烹饪 技艺，赐予菜肴新的风貌。 接下来我们与迈凯伦作伴，展开一场寻味云南之旅。在旅途中，我们喝酥油茶、吃 青稞饼，还有传统的尼西土锅鸡汤火锅。我们在乃皮的松茸森林中采摘香气浓郁的松茸， 又享用了一顿丰富的全牦牛宴，最后以一杯在位处高山之间、江河之上、云雾之中的敖云 庄园美酒作结。 细味这期，您会发现每一段旅程都会有不同的发现，旅途上的每个转角都充满惊喜。

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

10 Blaze of Hope • 12 Space Exploration • 16 Enchanted Garden • 18 Two for Tea ­ 20 Post Opulence Perfection • 22 Pink Dreams • 26 Inspired Mastery • 32 On the Road Again­ 46 Tasting Shangri-la • 52 Sichuan, Contemporized • 56 Open-Minded Food­ 64 Natural Inspirations • 74 Whey Special • 78 Holistically Paired • 82 Enchanted Evenings

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88 Pairings That Sing • 92 Bohemian Harmony • 96 Escape to Wellness ­ 102 King of Crabs • 104 Tea at Sea • 108 Stronger Than Ever • 110 La Vie En Rose­ 112 Affinity of Flavors • 114 Bouquet of Rosés • 116 Perfectly Done­ 118 Think Sink • 120 Autumn-Winter Innovation • 122 Summer Dreaming

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绽放希望

blaze of hope

IN 1870, HENNESSY X.O introduced an extraordinary new style of Cognac to the world. Today, in a year filled with global challenges and uncertainty, Maison Hennessy sought to celebrate a century and a half of acclaim for Hennessy X.O in a way that would carry both artistic significance and a message of hope.

Celebrated artist Cai Guo-Qiang was chosen for the project, and his work, The

Birth of Tragedy , took the form of a spectacular pyrotechnic performance crafted as a play in three acts. The unusual daytime event featured bursts of smoke and vibrant color blossoming over the Charente, the scenic river that flows through France’s Cognac region. The location was chosen because the watercourse once

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Cai Guo-Qiang is known for creating gunpowder paintings on canvas and in the sky. 蔡国强以烟火为笔，在画布 上和空中创作火药画。

WEN-YOU CAI, COURTESY OF CAI STUDIO

For the 150th anniversary of its most iconic Cognac, Maison Hennessy commissions a contemporary artist to create a unique pyrotechnic display.

Cai Guo-Qiang 蔡国强

轩尼诗 X.O 于 1870 年向世界展现焕然一新 的干邑风格，而在这充满挑战与未知的一年， 轩尼诗以兼具艺术意义与希望精神的方式， 来庆祝享誉一个半世纪的轩尼诗 X.O。 轩尼诗为活动请来著名艺术家蔡国强， 其作品《悲剧的诞生》采用了壮观的烟火表 演形式，并精心制作成三幕剧，在白天于夏 朗德河上迸发出烟火和绚丽色彩。夏朗德河 是一条流经法国科涅克白兰地地区的秀丽之 河，选择在此处开展这场特别的演出，是因

CASSANAS SIMON, COURTESY OF CAI STUDIO

为它曾经将一桶桶的干邑从轩尼诗总部运往

carried barrels of Cognac from Hennessy’s headquarters to the rest of the world.

According to Cai, this legacy of international trade was represented by “fireworks from the east blooming in the sky overlooking the Charente.”

And in a time when a novel virus has raged across the world, “they pay homage to a generosity of spirit and encourage us to look to new horizons with renewed courage.”

As the amplified voice of a narrator told a story of the manifold aspects of life, multihued fireworks burst from 150 oak aging barrels, each one symbolizing a year in the history of Hennessy X.O. They lay like boats on the river, arranged in the shape of a dragon. In his first pyrotechnic performance on water, Cai honored the eternal cycle of creation, destruction, and the human spirit. “While acknowledging pain,” he says, “it nonetheless shows our ability to embrace and rejoice in life, in harmony with nature.”

The links between the artist’s vision and Hennessy are closer than one might expect. As Cai explained to the Maison’s team during the project’s ideation stage, Chinese drinking culture is ancient and is best portrayed by famed poet Li Bai in his work Bringing in the Wine . “Since he loves to celebrate the joy of wine,” notes Cai, “it made sense to use barrels to create a universal resonance between East and West.”

Staging the event on the water also held special meaning for Cai. Although now based in New York, he grew up in the Chinese coastal city of Quanzhou, known for its maritime heritage. “I’ve been attached to boats and the ocean since I was young,” he says, “and a lot of my works show my appreciation for them. My hometown and cultural roots are connected to a conduit between the world of the visible and the invisible. Through my work, I present my desire to unite these two worlds – a juggle between space and time, tradition and contemporaneity.”

About two thousand people were invited to the carefully managed performance site, but because of pandemic restrictions and driven by a desire to share the occasion with as many as possible, Hennessy and Cai decided to livestream the event to the world. To their surprise, it garnered hundreds of millions of views around the globe. “While the fireworks express my contemplation on tragedy, art, and the essence of life,” says Cai, “I hope the audience can draw inspiration from the performance to reconcile with nature and find the power to heal.”

世界各地。 蔡国强认为 “ 从东方而来的烟火绽放于 俯视着夏朗德省的天空中 ” 诠释了全球贸易 的遗绪，而在这新型病毒席卷全球的时刻，

“ 它们向人类慷慨的精神致敬，并激励我们 以勇气开拓新视野 ”。 扩音旁白讲述了生命多采多姿的循环， 绚烂的烟花从一百五十个陈年橡木桶中迸 发，每个酒桶都象征着轩尼诗 X.O 历史中的 一年。它们犹如河中之船，排成了龙的形状。 蔡国强透过这场白天水上烟火表演，向创造、 毁灭和生命循环致敬。他说 ：“ 我们在认清 生命痛苦后仍接受并享受它、与大自然合 一。” 艺术家的想法与轩尼诗之间的关联比想 像中的更密切。在活动的构思阶段，蔡国强 就与轩尼诗团队提到源远流长的中国饮酒文 化，这种文化还被描绘于著名诗人李白的诗 作《将进酒》中。蔡国强表示 ：“ 正因他乐 于歌颂饮酒的欢畅，我们就能名正言顺地用 橡木桶在东西方之间激荡出共鸣。” 在水上筹办活动对蔡国强而言也别具意 义。他现居纽约，却成长于在中国沿海城市、 以海洋传统闻名的泉州。他说 ：“ 我从小就 钟情于船只与海洋，我的许多作品都展现出 对它们的喜爱。我的家乡和文化渊源与世界 有着可见与不可见的连接，而我透过作品呈 现连结地域与时间、传统与当代的愿望。” 约两千位观者受邀到夏朗德河畔，虽囿 于冠状病毒的管制，轩尼诗和蔡国强仍希望 尽可能地与更多人分享表演，于是决定面向 全球进行活动直播，结果出乎意料地吸引了 全世界数亿的观看次数。蔡国强说 ：“ 尽管 烟火传达了我对悲剧、艺术和生命本质的思 考，但我希望观众能通过这场烟花与大自然 和解，获得些许治愈。” road of stories

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空间探索

space exploration In an exhibition of large-scale architectural images, photographer Candida Höfer journeys through historic public spaces across Europe and the Americas.

“PHOTOGRAPHY FOR ME is the medium of light,” says

BY

摄影师 Candida Höfer 说道 ：“ 摄影对我来

Candida Höfer, whose exhibition Enlightened Spaces was recently on view at Shanghai’s Matthew Liu Fine Arts gallery.

For the noted German photographer, however, light and the term “enlightened” have multiple meanings. There is a literal sense in which space finds existence in the way it deals with light and the way light deals with it. And there is a figurative sense, whereby learning shines light on human existence. “Libraries, museums, even workspaces like the Melnikov House all transport knowledge,” she says, “as does the distinct personal architecture that reflects the ways in which we live.”

Spaces also carry a variety of connotations: they embody history, they often display power and vanity, some house the accumulated insights of humanity, and others are as mundane as a family home or as dynamic as an artist’s studio. In

KATE

说，是光线的媒介。” 她的摄影展 “ 明镜 (Enlightened Spaces)” 早前于上海德玉堂

Enlightened Spaces Höfer presents a new body of work that examines these ambiguities.

“The calmness of the gaze and the openness to detail that photography can provide make an examination possible, an examination of what we know or what we think we know,” the artist explains. Although Höfer’s work is wide-ranging, she is most well-known for her large-scale images of empty spaces. In travels across the world, she has photographed them in every variety of structure, from extravagant palaces to austere ateliers. “I tend to think I am in constant search of some forms of order that can convey beauty,” she says.

Höfer first became interested in architectural photography through her early series focusing on the ways that Turkish people living and working in Germany have influenced the

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NICHOLSON

画廊开幕。 在这位赫赫有名的德裔摄影师心中， ↗ Candida Höfer, Palazzo Canossa Mantova III 2011, Digital C-print, 180 × 174.6 cm

光线和 “ 照亮 ” 这两个词拥有多重意义。 字面意义上，空间在与光线互动的过程里 找到自己的存在 ；若用比喻来说，学习这 件事照亮了人类的存在。她说 ：“ 图书馆、 博物馆、甚至像梅尔尼科夫自宅一类的工 作场所，都会传递知识，如同每一栋个人

↗↗ Candida Höfer, Edificio Basurto Ciudad de México II 2015, Digital C-print, 180 × 226.3 cm → Candida Höfer, ­ Villa Savoye ­ [Le Corbusier ­ ©FLC/ADAGP] Poissy VI 2018, Digital C-print, 180 ×145 cm →→ Candida Höfer, Monnaie de Paris II 2018, Digital C-print, 180 × 154.9 cm

建筑会反映出我们的生活方式。” 空间亦承载着各种内涵。它们体现历 史，展示出权力与浮华，有些蕴藏着人性 长年积累的真知灼见，有些如住家般平凡 无奇，或如艺术家工作室般朝气蓬勃。在

“ 明镜 ” 展览里，Candida 藉由一系列全新 创作，深入探究这些空间内涵的模糊界线。 这位艺术家解释道 ：“ 摄影时，那刹 那凝视的寂静无声，以及对所有细节的包 容开放，让人得以仔细检视我们所知道的， 或我们以为我们知道的。”Candida 的作品 内容包罗万象，其中她大幅的无人空间影 像最为出名。她走遍世界各地，用镜头捕 捉的空间结构多不胜数，从奢靡华丽的宫 殿到朴实简陋的画室，应有尽有。“ 我觉 得自己随时都在找寻能传递出优美的、某 种型态的秩序。”

Candida 最初对建筑摄影的兴趣，起 源于她早期的作品，当时她专门研究在德

© ROMAN LANG

ART

German way of life, especially how they have accommodated traditional living spaces to better suit their needs.

In 2014, Höfer first mounted an exhibition in Shanghai at the Yuan Ming Yuan Road space of the Matthew Liu Fine Arts gallery. Now, in Enlightened Spaces , she showcases European buildings built before and after 1900 as well as Europeaninfluenced interiors in Mexico and Argentina. How has the photographer’s work evolved in those six years? “I have tried to maintain my approach while meeting new places, absorbing new environments,” she explains. “I ventured to the outside; I have become perhaps a bit more abstract.”

The artist finds that her decision to focus on a particular room is hard to define when tackling such grand buildings as the Palazzo Canossa in Mantova, Italy, or the Neues Museum in Berlin. “This is something that’s difficult to put into words,” Höfer says. “I assume it is some sort of sympathy. Sympathy does not imply full identification, but there is always some sort of attraction.” The photographer overwhelmingly prefers public or semi-public spaces when it comes to capturing a room’s atmosphere on film, and, pragmatically, it is easier to get permission to photograph them. “Private spaces are too intimate for me,” she finds. “Those spaces tend to relate closely to their owners.”

The photographs, despite being taken in public rooms, are devoid of people. This approach leaves the viewer free to follow the ways in which historical architectural features guide visitors in negotiating the spaces. From the palatial decorations adorning the Château de Versailles to a seashelllike spiral staircase in the Edificio Basurto in Mexico City, history’s footpaths are visibly traced through the cool gaze of Höfer’s lens.

↑

国生活与工作的土耳其人如何影响了德国

Candida Höfer

人的生活方式，尤其是他们如何适应德国 传统的生活空间，以满足自身生活所需。

↖↖ Candida Höfer, Red Squares 2019, Digital C-print, 70 x 75.9 cm ↖ Candida Höfer, Sunshine 2019, Digital C-print, 83 × 63 cm

2014 年，Candida 首次于上海圆明园 路的德玉堂画廊举办展览。在这次 “ 明镜 ” 展览中，她展出建于 1900 年前后的欧洲 建筑，以及受到欧洲影响的墨西哥和阿根 廷建筑空间。在过去六年间，这位摄影师 的作品发生了什么改变呢？她说 ：“ 我试 着保持一贯的方法与新的空间相遇，吸收 新环境的气息。我会向外探险，可以说我 变得比较抽象了吧。”

Candida 发现，拍摄某些空间，例如 意大利曼托瓦卡诺宫或柏林新博物馆等雄

←←

伟建筑时，她会难以下定决心全神贯注。

Candida Höfer, Doorway 2018, Digital C-print, 83 × 64.3 cm

某种感同身受的心情吧。感同身受不代表

← Candida Höfer, Glass Bricks 2019, Digital C-print, 70 × 67.2 cm

她说 ：“ 总有些东西很难诉诸言语，我想是 完全认同，但总会有某种吸引力。” 要用 底片捕捉一个房间的氛围，这位摄影师多 半偏好公共或半公共空间，就实务上来说， 这类空间也比较容易获得拍照许可。她认 为 ：“ 私人空间对我而言太私密了。它们 往往与空间的所有人有极为紧密的关系。” 这些照片虽然是在公共空间拍摄，却 不见一丝人影。 Candida 刻意运用這手法 呈现，让观赏者能够更随心所欲地跟着历 史建筑本身，引导访客的特性，自由穿梭 各个空间。不论是凡尔赛宫富丽堂皇的装 饰，或是墨西哥城巴斯托楼如贝壳般的螺 旋阶梯，在 Candida 镜头的凝望下，历史 的足迹均清晰可见且易于追寻。 road of stories

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绿意盎然

enchanted garden Hermès’ Passifolia tableware celebrates the ravishing beauty of nature.

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法 国 艺 术 家 Nathalie Rolland-Huckel 与 爱 马仕合作推出的 “Passifolia” 餐具系列，创 造出如梦似幻、绚丽雅致的自然世界。 自 1837 年起，爱马仕就坚持手工打造， 利用纯熟工艺和对美的追求，创造出优雅 经 典 的 艺 术， 正 如 “Passifolia” 餐 具 系 列。 小盘、大盘、杯子和深圆盘在桌上恣意开展， 交织出一幅生意盎然的自然景观，令人屏 息沉思。

Nathalie 的灵感来自于从她工作室中 的兰花、异国标本植物和欧洲著名花园中 葱翠碧绿的温室。 四年来，她花了两千多个小时才得以 绘制出如此出色且精巧细致的作品。由铅笔 和棕褐色的笔触开始，一路转化成三十二 种不同颜色的设计，光是一片叶子可能就 有五层蓝绿色堆叠。如此注重细微的制作 手法，让作品充满深度和广度，引进大自 然的生命力。

COURTESY OF HERMÉS (6)

CREATING AN INTRICATE WORLD of flora and foliage that is both dreamlike and hyperreal, artist Nathalie Rolland-Huckel has collaborated with Hermès to produce its new Passifolia tableware series.

Since 1837, Hermès has maintained its unique artisanal model, a commitment to craftsmanship and a quest for beautiful materials that lead to timelessly elegant objects, like those called Passifolia. Spread lavishly out across a table, the plates, platters, cups, and bowls of the collection form flowery, intertwining landscapes that invite quiet contemplation.

Rolland-Huckel took inspiration from the orchids in her workshop, exotic specimen plants, and the lush greenhouses of famous European gardens. Beginning four years ago, she spent more than two thousand hours in painstaking detail work to achieve the remarkable results. Pencil drawings and sepia brushstrokes progressed to finished designs that employ thirtytwo individual colors. The subtle variations – as many as five shades of blue and green in a single leaf – give the pieces their startling depth and dimension.

INSPIRED LIVING

Small tray 2号托盘，小号 16 × 12 cm

Sugar bowl 糖盅 21 cl

Mug 茶杯 42 cl

Dinner plate 餐盘 27 cm

双人成茶

TWO FOR TEA To bring back a lost Chinese art, a pair of Shanghai designers updates tradition.

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INSPIRED LIVING

STEEPED IN TALES OF EMPERORS AND GODDESSES, poets and physicians, tea drinking in China is a time-honored practice that goes back five thousand years. Legend has it that centuries ago, only young women who were deemed pure enough were allowed to pick tea leaves.

Seventeenth-century merchants prized the fragrant commodity for the riches it brought.

Today, the age-old rite has fallen out of favor with China’s younger generations. In an elegant effort to revive interest, Lyndon Neri and Rossana Hu, the founders of Shanghai-based architectural design practice Neri&Hu, conceptualized the Zisha Tea Project in 2006.

Their original set, which included a teapot and two sizes of cups, was crafted from zisha , a purple clay widely considered the best material for teaware. Found around Lake Tai in Jiangsu province, it is renowned for its capacity to retain heat and prevent oxidation.

For aesthetic inspiration, the designers looked to the Ming and Tang dynasties. “We stayed with a subdued and simple form,” says Hu, “an abstraction of the traditional teacup, which helps users to appreciate the purity of the material in color, texture, and body.” The unique mix of sand and minerals in each batch of clay spontaneously results in teacups of different colors. “We use the small cups for tea and the large ones for coffee, lattes, or hot water,” says Hu. The sets, in steady production since their launch, are constantly evolving. “We design our own-brand products in an extremely deliberate way,” says Neri, “and we continue to have new ideas for enhancements to the original set.” The designers already have added small plates for snacks or tea bags, and bowls, platters, and dining plates are on the horizon.

沏茶在中国可追溯至五千年前，从帝王、神祇至诗人、医者的故事， 或多或少都有这项悠久传统的踪迹。据说数世纪前，只有被视为纯洁无 瑕的少女才获准采茶。十七世纪的商贾因茶叶能为他们带来庞大财富，而 视此芬芳的商品为珍宝。 时至今日，品茶这个古老的仪式已不再受中国年轻人青睐。为了重振年轻世 代对品茶的兴趣，由郭锡恩先生和胡如珊女士在上海成立的建筑设计事务所如恩设 计研究室，于 2006 年创作了紫砂茶具系列产品，茶饮从此得以优雅、精致的姿态 重新掳获世人的目光。茶具组包括一个茶壶与两只尺寸相异的茶杯，都是用 纯净且公认最适宜用来制作茶具的黏土 ── 紫砂制成。紫砂土原 产于江苏省太湖边，以保温效果好又能防止氧化而闻名。 这套产品的美学灵感取自于明朝和唐朝。胡女士表 示： “ 我们秉持内敛、简单的型态，将传统茶杯抽象化， COURTESY OF NERI&HU (2)

让饮茶的人能欣赏紫砂纯净天然的色泽、纹理与质 地。” 由于每一批土所含的沙与矿物质的比例都不 同，因此造就了茶杯各式各样的颜色。“ 我们用小 的杯子喝茶，大的杯子喝咖啡、拿铁或热水。” 紫砂茶具系列自推出迄今，一直稳定出产，产 品本身也持续演进。郭先生表示 ：“ 我们随心所欲地 BY

设计自家品牌产品，也不断为原本的茶具组设计注

KATE NICHOLSON

入新想法。” 他们现已增加了摆放点心和茶包的小碟 子，同系列的碗、大浅碟与餐盘也即将问世。 road of stories

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“后奢华”精炼之美

post opulence perfection The new Rolls-Royce Ghost makes a dazzling Hong Kong debut.

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INSPIRED LIVING

KAUZRAMBLER

K11 MUSEA, the city’s spectacular cultural-retail complex on Victoria Dockside, had never seen anything quite like it. Amid the glare of floodlights and the whir of cameras, a towering construction crane raised a HKD7,000,000, 2.5 tonne automobile to its sixth-floor display venue.

It was a dramatic run-up to the unveiling of the new Rolls-Royce Ghost on October 27. At the K11 Art & Cultural Centre over the next few days, invited guests and the general public experienced a creative installation designed for the debut. A celebratory trip through a tunnel inspired by the Ghost’s famous Starlight Headliner and Illuminated Fascia was followed by an immersive multimedia performance that included video projections on a panoramic screen and dynamic sound and lighting effects.

The Ghost, first launched in 2009, has proven one of the most successful models in Rolls-Royce’s 116-year history, appealing especially to a new generation of discerning drivers. Now, in response to a perceived shift in the way Ghost customers seek to express their success, RollsRoyce introduces its sophisticated new design direction called “Post Opulence.”

Rather than by overt statement, the new Ghost’s subtle luxury is expressed in enhanced comfort, functionality, and visual elegance.

Proprietary aluminum spaceframe architecture renders the body as one seamlessly flowing piece. The iconic Pantheon Grille is illuminated by concealed LEDs to provide a perfectly restrained glow.

New colors and premium materials include the Tempest Grey body complemented by a Tailored Purple coachline and the rich Grace White leather interior paired with lustrous wood veneer in Obsidian Ayous.

The unique Illuminated Fascia presents a radiant “GHOST” nameplate surrounded by hundreds of stars, echoing the ethereal sparkle of the Starlight Headliner.

A reclining rear Serenity Seat offers first-class-jet-cabin comfort in the new Ghost Extended, and passengers now open and close the doors with power assistance. A new Micro-Environment Purification System (MEPS) removes nearly all ultra-fine particles from the car’s interior in under two minutes.

The Ghost’s powerful, stable, and effortless Magic Carpet Ride is delivered by its hallmark 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V12 engine, along with all-wheel steering and drive and the world’s first Planar Suspension System.

香港维港的艺术创意地标 K11 Musea 也是首次 迎来这景象 ：在泛光灯与摄影机环伺之下，吊臂 将价值港币七百万、重达 2.5 公吨的汽车运送到 六层楼高的展出场地。 全新劳斯莱斯车款 Ghost 在 10 月 27 日揭 的初次 幕前的准备十分盛大，劳斯莱斯为 Ghost ​​ 亮相创作了别开生面的光影声效艺术装置。受邀 嘉宾及大众在通过向 Ghost 知名的星光顶饰和发 光仪表板致敬的隧道后，就能看见投影在场内巨 型全景屏幕上的影像，欣赏声效与动态灯光交织 的沉浸式多媒体表演。

Ghost 在 2009 年首度推出，成为劳斯莱斯 116 年历史以来最成功的车款之一，在新世代品 味独到的车主群中尤其受欢迎。如今，Ghost 的 客群逐渐转变展现其成功地位的方式，劳斯莱斯 也跟随世界的步伐前进，推出更加精细的全新设 计 ：后奢华美学。 新一代 Ghost 摒弃浮夸的外表，取而代之 的是低调的奢华，致力于提升舒适度、功能性和 优雅的美感。专属的铝制车架打造出天衣无缝的 流线型车身，万神殿格栅在内镶的 LED 灯映射 之下，完美地展现柔和深沉的亮丽。

Ghost 选用全新色系与顶级质料，灰色的车 身佐以人手绘画的紫腰线，内部座椅则以色泽饱 和的优雅白皮椅搭配光亮的黑曜石孔木饰面，以 数百颗星星环绕的 “GHOST” 字标在独特的发光 仪表板上熠熠生辉，与星光顶饰的飘渺星光相互 呼应。 全新长轴版 Ghost Extended 内装可向后倾 倒的优裕悠闲座椅，舒适感媲美头等舱。除了搭 配一键自动关闭车门功能，全新搭载的微空间净 化系统更能在两分钟内清除车内绝大部分的细微 颗粒。 此外，Ghost 采用劳斯莱斯标志性的 6.75 升 V12 双涡轮引擎、四轮驱动系统及世界首创的 悬吊系统，不仅马力惊人，且平稳舒适，提供如 魔毯般的驾乘体验。 road of stories

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红粉幻梦

PINK DREAMS Omakase captures the charm of a springtime picnic under Japanese sakura blossoms.

BY KATE NICHOLSON

AN ETHEREAL RESTAURANT where sunset

never fades and April showers fall gently forever is nestled away in a renovated earlytwentieth-century building in Shanghai’s Xuhui District, an area where the city’s foodies flock to experience cuisine from every corner of the world. With food flown in from Japan, Omakase is a spectacular new addition to the city’s burgeoning Japanese dining scene.

The restaurant’s design is based on the mythologies behind the country’s obsession with its lovely and ubiquitous cherry blossoms.

One legend concerns a fairy, Konohanasakuyahime, who flits over the cherry trees, using

COURTESY OF SHANGHAI HIP-POP ARCHITECTURAL DECORATION DESIGN CO. (2)

DESIGN

ROAD OF STORIES | TK |

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The first floor houses the kitchen and fully stocked bar. 厨房和吧台设在餐厅一楼

Gold and pink-hued lighting invites a feeling of dignity into the spaces. 金色配件为粉空色的空间带来尊贵感

her sweet breath to set them ablaze with pink blossoms. Another tells of a lonely tree in the forest that never bloomed until meeting a woman called Sakura, who gave up her life to help the tree finally flower.

“I was very touched when I read these legends,” says lead designer Sun Tianwen, an accomplished architect with Shanghai Hip-Pop Architectural Decoration Design Co. “I wanted to create a sweet and beautiful atmosphere for the customers.” With a substantial degree of trust from the client – the only requirement was the number of seats – the design team had the freedom to get creative. “The restaurant is small,” says Sun, “so I knew we had to make the space really wonderful.”

Because sakura blossoms are most often pink, Sun chose various shades of the color for the restaurant’s core palette, along with pops of gold and orange. “Gold is used to invite a feeling of dignity into the dining space,” he says, and psychology indicates that gold and orange hues help make people hungry, leading to an enhanced dining experience and positive opinions about the food.

The mere two hundred square meters of floor space limited the options for composing the dining space. To facilitate getting food to diners quickly, the kitchen was placed on the first floor, with the bar directly in front of the kitchen doors. “This is for convenience, of course, but it also means the bar becomes a showcase platform for the restaurant,” Sun explains. A private dining room is also tucked away downstairs.

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上海徐汇区一栋经过翻新的二十世纪老建筑里，隐身 着一间空灵梦幻的餐厅，这里的夕阳永不落下，四 月的樱花雨永不枯竭地轻轻洒落。在这寰宇佳肴荟 萃、吸引众多上海饕客尝鲜的餐厅一级战区里，樱 久让餐厅以日本直送的新鲜食材，在如雨后春笋般 设立的日式料理餐厅中，成为令人眼前一亮的新血。 这家餐厅的设计灵感来自关于日本人钟情、玲 珑可爱且遍地可见的樱花的古老传说。传说女神木 花开耶姬轻轻掠过樱树梢，呼出的甜蜜气息让枝桠 燃起粉红色的熊熊烈焰。另一个传说则是关于一棵 森林里不会开花的树，有一天一位名叫樱花的女人 经过，她牺牲自己的性命，终于让这棵树盛开了花。 孙天文是上海黑泡泡建筑装饰设计工程有限公 司的建筑师， 也是这个项目的主持设计师。他说： “读 到这些传说时，我非常感动。我想为顾客打造甜美 的氛围。” 客户对他们全然信任，唯一要求是座椅数 量，因此他们的设计团队得以尽情挥洒创意。孙天 文说 ：“ 餐厅很小，我就知道一定要设计得漂亮到令 人惊艳。” 由于盛开的樱花多为粉红色，孙天文便选用不 同深浅的粉红色泽作为餐厅的主色调，其间再用金 色和橘色点缀。他说 ：“ 金色为整个用餐区注入一股 尊贵感，而且心理学研究显示金色和橘色调能促进 食欲， 提升用餐体验， 让人对菜品味道产生正面评价。 ” 餐厅的整体面积不超过两百平方米，因此建造

Each time they visit, guests can request a different room for a new dining experience.

COURTESY OF SHANGHAI HIP-POP ARCHITECTURAL DECORATION DESIGN CO. (3)

顾客可预约不同餐区的位置

The forty-two-seat dining area is on the second floor, where the kitchen’s chaos is kept at bay and diners are enveloped in glittering sakura-embossed glass walls. Their frosted surface provides both privacy and tantalizing glimpses of what lies beyond. To evoke the feeling of a beautiful spring day among the blossoms, the design team mounted LEDs in the end faces of the glass-panel room dividers. With the press of a button, the color of the lights can be changed to create various moods and to reinforce the themes of custom menus or special events.

The two-floor layout is deliberately labyrinthine. “I wanted to create a space that’s filled with variety,” says Sun. While guests are not encouraged to move around too much for fear of disturbing other diners, they can add an element of adventure to their dining experience by requesting seats in a different space the next time they book a table.

In kaiseki-style dining, courses are based on seasonal produce. And the restaurant’s name is the Japanese term for allowing the chef to decide on the selection, serving order, and style of food that is right for that particular evening. Diners at Omakase are guaranteed the freshest ingredients uniquely presented.

The award-winning restaurant offers diners a gratifying blend of tradition, innovation, and exciting ambience. “Life is more than just living,” Sun notes. “There must time for romance and pink dreams.”

用餐区的选择有限。为了能加快送餐速度，厨房设在 一楼，吧台就在厨房门口。 他解释 ：“ 这当然是为了 方便，但也让吧台成为餐厅的展示台。” 餐厅楼下则 另设有隐密的包厢。 位于二楼的用餐区有 42 个座位，远离忙乱喧嚣 的厨房，让顾客能沉浸在樱花浮雕闪亮玻璃墙所营造 的樱花盛宴之中。雾面玻璃提供了隐私性，勾起让人 不禁想一窥玻璃后方究竟的好奇心。为了营造出春日 里樱花簇拥的感觉，设计团队在玻璃隔板的端面安装 LED 灯，只要按个按钮，就能改变光线的颜色，产生 不同的气氛，还能配合客制化菜单或特殊活动用来加 强主题。 餐厅两层楼的格局刻意设计得如迷宫般曲折。孙 天文说 ：“ 我想打造一个千变万化的空间。” 虽然顾客 通常不能在餐厅任意走动，以免打扰其他顾客用餐， 但他们再次造访时，可以预约不同用餐区的位置，提 升用餐的新奇体验。 怀石料理的菜式会依当季食材而变。这家餐厅的 名称在日文里，正是让厨师能根据当晚状况自由选择 适合的料理、上菜顺序和食物风格的意思。到樱久让 用餐，保证能品尝到最新鲜、最独一无二的食材。 这家餐厅获奖无数，让饕客心满意足地享受一 种结合传统、创新、令人激动的氛围。孙天文补充说 道 ：“ 生活绝不只是活着，总得有点浪漫、有点粉红 泡泡的梦。” road of stories

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PRESENTED BY DOM PÉRIGNON

馥郁“蚝”情

INSPIRED MASTERY Dom Pérignon’s masterful Vintage 2010 meets the sea’s most seductive treasure.

Writers have penned treatises on them, philosophers have been inspired by them, poets have likened the act of eating them to “kissing the sea on the lips.” And now scientists have at last confirmed what gourmands have long known about oysters: they go beautifully with Champagne, thanks to complementary umami compounds found in the classic pairing.

Chefs Richard Ekkebus and Maxime Gilbert share with TK their longtime appreciation of the marvelous synergies that transpire when the briny sweet succulence of the noble oyster is matched with the elegant freshness, minerality, and salinity of the iconic Champagnes of Dom Pérignon. § 蚝与人们向来有着千丝万缕的关系：作家著书论述，教

人“不妨点蚝”；诗人写下诗句，将吃蚝比喻为“与大海亲吻”；哲学家也受蚝的诸多启发，引发不少奇思妙想。 而最近，科学家也证实了一个美食家早已知晓的事实，就是生蚝与香槟，这一经典餐酒组合所释放出的鲜味化 合物，确实是天作之合。名厨Richard Ekkebus和Maxime Gilbert与TK分享在他们眼中，生蚝的多重风味、鲜嫩 多汁，结合唐培里侬香槟的清爽酸味、优雅矿物香和标志性咸味时，迸发出的相辅相成的奇妙作用。

BY MAMIE CHEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

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From SOMM, freshly shucked David Hervé Royal Oyster No. 1 with lemon, mignonette, and buttered rye bread SOMM餐厅精心制作，新鲜去壳的大卫赫维皇家1号生蚝，­ 搭配柠檬、木犀草酱及奶油黑麦面包

PRESENTED BY DOM PÉRIGNON

RICHARD EKKEBUS

“A PERFECT MEAL starts with fresh oysters and a great

Champagne like Dom Pérignon,” says Richard Ekkebus, executive chef of two-Michelin-star Amber. “A sip of Champagne, some dark rye bread with salted butter, then the oyster – natural for me, with no lemon or mignonette – and finish with Champagne again. It’s a ritual almost.

I could make the most beautiful dish, but it would never be as good as the oyster itself.”

Behind the simplicity lie exacting standards. “Shuck” is too rough to describe how Ekkebus opens an oyster. “It’s almost like a surgical intervention,” he says. Whereas others start from the hinge, he prefers an entry point along the right side at the adductor muscle, allowing for a cleaner cut that minimizes damage to the flesh. With care and precision, he slices along the ceiling of the shell.

Crucially, the oyster is never rinsed of its natural liquor.

Exceptionally sweet and tender David Hervé oysters retain the pleasing, cultivated merroir of their Marennes Oléron claires, and the meaty, mineral-forward Ebisu oysters reflect the untamed sea flavors of their Hakata Bay home.

“The two oysters have very different flavor profiles,” says Ekkebus, “but both are extremely interesting with Dom Pérignon. The Vintage 2010’s vigor and grace complements the sweet plumpness of David Hervé oysters, while its characteristic minerality and crisp citrus notes echo and amplify the minerality in the Ebisu oysters.

Although the Ebisu variety is already in season, Ekkebus prefers to wait for further maturation. His discipline and restraint mirror those of Vincent Chaperon, Chef de Cave of Dom Pérignon, who allowed the Vintage 2010 a full decade in the cellars to complete its transformation. “In nature,” he notes, “patience is often the biggest rewarder.”

Richard Ekkebus, culinary director of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, overseeing Amber and SOMM 置地文华东方酒店厨艺总监Richard Ekkebus，掌理Amber和SOMM两家餐厅

“ 一顿完美的晚餐要从新鲜生蚝和像唐培里

然蚝汁洗掉。香甜柔嫩的大卫赫维生蚝保

侬这样的顶级香槟开始。” 米其林二星餐厅

留了马衡欧列宏生蚝养殖场怡人细腻的海

Amber 的 行 政 主 厨 Richard Ekkebus 说 道。 “ 啜一口香槟，来一点抹上咸奶油的黑麦面 包，然后享用生蚝──我喜欢原汁原味，不 加柠檬汁或木犀草酱──最后再喝点香槟作

洋风土，而富含矿物质、肉质丰美的惠比

结。这几乎成为一种仪式。”

但与唐培里侬搭配起来都是妙不可言。” 唐

“ 我可以做出最出色的菜肴，但永远也 比不上生蚝本身的美味。” 简单背后，隐藏的是严格而苛刻的标 准。用 “ 撬开 ” 来描述 Richard 的开蚝方式

Mario Paeke, head chef of SOMM, a modern French bistro with Japanese influences Mario Paeke，SOMM主厨，这是一家 别具日本特色的现代法式小酒馆

寿生蚝则反映了产地博多湾清新原始的海 洋气息。

Richard 介绍 ：“ 这两种生蚝风味迥异， 培里侬 2010 年份香槟充满朝气和力量，与 大卫赫维生蚝的甜美饱满相得益彰，而其特 有的矿物香和清爽的柑橘味，也与惠比寿生 蚝中的矿物质相互呼应，更显风味別具。

实在太粗略随便了。他形容 ：“ 这就像外科

尽管惠比寿生蚝正值当令，但 Richard

手术。” 别人都从壳韧带下刀，但他更喜欢

喜欢再等它熟成一点。这样的自律和节制

沿着闭壳肌所在的右侧着手。这种做法更

与唐培里侬的首席酿酒师 Vincent Chaperon

俐落干净，而且大大降低伤到蚝肉的机会。

如出一辙，他让 2010 年份香槟在酒窖中整

接着，他小心翼翼地贴着蚝壳上缘切开闭

整静置十年，才完成整个酿造过程。

壳肌。 最重要的是，千万别把生蚝分泌的天

Richard 总结 ：“ 在自然界中，耐心往 往带来最大的回报。” road of stories

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PRESENTED BY DOM PÉRIGNON

MAXIME GILBERT

“I GREW UP IN CHARENTE, near the

shore,” says Maxime Gilbert, executive chef of Écriture. “There is the iodine smell when you arrive on the beach and the freshness you take in your mouth while you are surfing. Eating an oyster is the same. There aren’t many seafoods that can really bring you back like this.”

Typical of most natives of Charente,­ Gilbert’s preferred way of eating oysters is to slurp down a mountain of freshly shucked oysters along with grilled chipolata sausages.

But in a two-Michelin-star setting, he enchants guests with an interpretation that showcases the natural beauty and purity of his products. A freshly shucked oyster in its own liquor is plated with slices of pan-seared sausage, pickled daikon, and diced lemon and finished with flavorful drops of sauce deglazed from the pan. The salinity and minerality of the oyster perfectly complement the salty meatiness of the sausages. The citrus acidity cuts through the fatty sausage, and the crisp daikon provides textural contrast. As a whole, the dish pairs beautifully with a glass of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2010.­ Vincent Chaperon, Dom Pérignon‘s cellarmaster, famously overcame challenging conditions to produce and release a stellar Vintage 2010. On the nose, the initial tropical aromas of green mango, melon, and pineapple cede to orange zest and mandarin orange, lending the Champagne a bracing freshness that fully complements the zesty citrus notes from the diced lemon in the dish. On the palate, the Champagne is firm and assertive, with fine but energetic bubbles that work in tandem with the pickled daikon to add textural variety to the food and wine pairing.­ “Dom Pérignon really matches what we do here at Écriture,” says Gilbert, “because every vintage tells a different story and always reveals something surprising.”

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Maxime Gilbert, executive chef of Écriture Écriture 行政主厨 Maxime Gilbert

Écriture 行政主厨 Maxime Gilbert 说 ：“ 我在

柑 橘 果 酸 从 肥 美 的 香 肠 中 突 围 而 出， 清­

靠海的夏朗德长大。当你走到海滩，会闻到

脆的萝卜则带来不同层次的口感，搭配一杯

碘的气味 ；冲浪时，也会吃进满嘴的鲜味 ；

唐培里侬 2010 年份香槟，个中滋味令人惊叹。

吃生蚝也是如此。少数海鲜能如此让人回味

唐 培 里 侬 的 首 席 酿 酒 师 Vincent Chaperon 克服种种艰难条件，生产和推出优

无穷。”

Maxime 就像大多数夏朗德人一样，吃

秀的唐培里侬 2010 年份香槟，为人津津乐道。

生蚝时喜欢发出窸窸窣窣的声音。他一边作

这款香槟酒香浓郁，先有青芒果、蜜瓜和凤

势一边发出夸张的声音，新鲜去壳的生蚝堆

梨等热带水果的香气。甜蜜气息散去后，橙

成小山，旁边搭配的是烤好的直布罗陀肠。

皮与柑橘的清香与菜式中柠檬的香气完美互

虽 然 身 在 米 其 林 二 星 餐 厅， 但 他 的

补。饱满而醇厚的口感让酒体散发着坚定大

演绎方式完美展现出食材的自然之美与

气的风范，充满活力的细腻气泡与腌萝卜则

纯 净， 使 客 人 为 之 向 往。 他 将 新 鲜 去 壳 的

碰撞出恰到好处的滋味，大大提升了佳酿美

生 蚝 泡 在 生 蚝 自 带 的 蚝 汁 中， 配 上 煎 香

馔的质感。

肠 片、 腌 萝 卜 和 柠 檬 丁， 最 后 再 淋 上 一

Maxime 说 ：“ 唐培里侬和 Écriture 的菜

些 烹 调 后 收 汁 而 来 的 鲜 美 酱 汁。 生 蚝 的

肴真的很搭，因为每个年份都述说着不同的

咸 味 和 矿 物 味 与 香 肠 的 咸 肉 味 完 美 互 补，

故事，总能从中发现惊喜。 ”

Brittany oyster, chipolata sausage, pickled daikon, and lemon 布列塔尼生蚝、直布罗陀肠、腌萝卜及柠檬

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On the RoadAgain A Shanghai restaurateur reawakens the culinary glories of China’s fabled Silk Road.

BY RAY CAI

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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For thousands of years, the Silk Road served as a means of trade and cultural exchange between Eastern and Western civilizations, leaving an indelible mark on their history. But inevitably over time, many of the quaint and charming features associated with it – camel bells, horse teams, trading posts – have one by one faded into obscurity. Now, through the medium of food, restaurateur Robin Yin is bringing the illustrious route’s legacy back to life.

始于西汉、盛于隋唐，由长安为起点的丝绸 之路，在诞生数千年后的今天，依然是许多 人魂牵梦萦的追索之地。这里曾经的繁荣与 熙攘，有如一幅神秘的画卷，为东西方古老 文明间的交流留下不可磨灭的印记。尽管在 历史的洪流中，许多东西都随着岁月的变迁 而像驼铃、马队、驿站一般逐渐消逝在烟尘 中，但总有一种更特别的方式能唤醒那失落 的美好，那便是食物。

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Yin is co-owner of Lost Heaven Restaurant Group, which is dedicated to rediscovering and reviving the lost heritage of ancient Chinese folklore, handicrafts, and recipes. Building on his vast experience, he chose the cuisine of Xian, the city formerly known as Chang’an that was the starting point of the Silk Road, as a source of inspiration. Then, over a period of two months, he explored the culinary specialties of regions all along the former route, including Gansu, Xinjiang, and Mongolia, sourcing from them their most legendary export, spices.

These spices – and an emphasis on imaginative preparation – became central in creating dishes that highlight a rich and hearty style. Yin’s cuisine goes far beyond the traditions that gave rise to it by means of an integrative process that skillfully introduces new culinary techniques.

在以古丝绸之路为起点重述历史前，长期致力于地域饮食研究的花马天堂 公司创办人尹维伯，已成功地将茶马古道上的记忆透过味觉传递给普罗大 众。也正是基于过往的丰富经验，他选择以曾作为唐长安城存在的西安美 食为基点，开始一路向外延伸。在前后两个多月的时间里，他驱车深入这 条古道曾辐射的众多地区，亲自品尝包括甘肃、新疆、蒙古等在内的特色 美食，同时将当时西域商队重要的交易品——香料，从其原产地引入，加 入菜式的创作与设计之中，最终形成了这些极富地域风格的崭新技艺。但 当唇齿与之发生接触之后，却能感受到产地之外的新鲜感。 尹维伯并未单纯地以原样复制的方式，把那些散布于丝绸之路的食物直接 还原，而是借由“融合”的理念，为其注入新的做法和风格。

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His Middle Eastern-style naan, for example, features the “tenacity” of P E R S I A N C H I C K E N M E AT B A L L S W I T H G R E E N S OY B E A N S 波斯青豆鸡肉圆子

Delectably deep-fried, these meatballs are crispy on the outside, sweet and tender on the inside. The tempting fragrance of the outer shell complements the delicate flavors of the mashed green soybeans and tender chicken within. A complex of harmonious spices, dominated by savory cumin, ties the tastes together for a memorable culinary experience that summons up the ancient Silk Road. 如棒棒糖一样上桌的圆子，经过炸制外壳脆香，内里带着些许颗粒 感的青豆泥和鸡肉绵软鲜甜，浓郁的孜然味占据整个口腔，极富西

Xinjiang cuisine but has been baked to maintain a soft chewiness even after it cools. In his own spin on the region’s barbecue, Yin makes use of a French method of grilling vegetables that gives the accompanying meat a more layered flavor. As in the past,

域特色的味觉让人仿佛置身在丝路上的某座驿站。也正是有了脆壳 的保护，鸡肉能够保持其口感，而青豆的淡淡植物生腥又和香料带

the cultures of East and West meet

来了复杂度，着实令人难忘。

to open up limitless possibilities.

比如中东风格的馕饼，保留着新 疆式的韧感，但在变冷之后，却 依然保留着柔软口感。烤肉这样 看似寻常的菜式，他也以法餐中 蔬菜熏烤的方式，让肉拥有更为 丰富的香气层次。这一切，正像 是当年东西诸国不同文化，在彼 此碰撞、交流后所诞生出的无限

TA N - F L AV O R E D B U N S 唐味胡饼

These pita-like buns are stuffed with hefty morsels of crispycooked pork and accompanied by a heavily spiced sauce that permeates each bite with flavor. Middle Eastern baking methods are used to produce a bread that is thinner, softer, and tastier than that baked according to traditional recipes.

At the same time, it has enough substance to stand up to the richness of the meat for a perfect trifecta of pork, bread, and sauce. 在口袋饼中装入煮至酥烂的大块猪肉。带有浓郁香料味的酱汁 渗入饼皮，咬下去后柔软而香嫩的感觉瞬间占据整个口腔。不 同于传统馕饼的口感，以中东方法制作的口袋饼不仅薄，同时 也非常柔软，即使稍凉味道也毫不逊色。同时它又中和了肉的 油润感，让人感觉十分满足。

可能，但却是以食物的方式带领 我们重返那条黄金之路。

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M O N G O L I A N R O A S T E D L EG O F L A M B 蒙古风味烤羊腿

← T I B E TA N S T Y L E R O A S T E D B E E F 藏族烤牛肉

Finding its inspiration in the culinary traditions of China’s windswept plains and plateaus, this dish is another example of the simple, mouthwatering flavors of traditional nomadic food. In a nod to modern methods, thick beef slices featuring a layer of soft tendon are marinated before being spiced and cooked. Eaten without condiments, each bite carries a subtle hint of citrus from the addition of chen pi .

Barbequed to perfection, the leg of lamb arrives at your table with a deliciously inviting aroma. Crispy skin hangs off the succulent meat for a taste and feel that is decidedly and unabashedly rural. Unlike traditional roasted lamb, the chef uses fruits and vegetables in the barbeque process to remove any gamey smell. Side condiments come in dry ground chilis, a sweet and sour sauce, or freshly cut tomatoes — each a perfect companion for the intense flavor of the dish. 带皮羊腿肉码成小山似的上桌，烤制的香气令人不禁食指大动。脆嫩的羊皮 连着细嫩的羊肉，单是这样咀嚼都能感受到草原风情。不同于传统的烹饪手 法，厨师以蔬果作为熏料，巧妙地去除了羊肉自带的膻味。无论是辣椒磨制 的干料、甜辣口味酱料还是加入番茄后鲜甜微酸的酱汁，都很好地衬托出肉 质本身的鲜嫩。

同样是烤制的肉类，这道菜也带着传统牧民 食物的粗犷。切成厚片的牛肉带着一层富含 胶质的软筋，香料的味道早已渗入其中，不 沾调料更能感受到那种草原般的随性。有意 思的是，在咀嚼时一丝陈皮的柑橘香气从其 中透出来，而预先腌制所带来的咸鲜，显然 更符合当代人的饮食习惯。

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TRAVEL

Y

寻味彩云之南

YTasting UNNAN G RAND TLa OUR ShangriTraveling in style in a McLaren GT, TK takes an adventurous flavor tour across China’s Yunnan province.

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COURTESY OF MCLAREN (2)

BY MAGGIE ZEE

dinary meal, authentic from start to finish, is accompanied by a local fruit wine.

A stay at the Banyan Tree Ringha resort proves quiet and restful. Early the next morning, I’m back in the GT, setting out for the mountains after first passing through Shangri-La City proper. About two hours later, I arrive at the famed matsutake mushroom forest of Naipi, with a horizon that stretches endlessly and yaks and horses everywhere.

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从上海至香格里拉市的飞行途中，我 又再次温习了 James Hilton《消失的地平 线》 ，书中描述的人间天堂有神圣的雪山， 遍地的野花和湍急的瀑布，万物皆沉浸在 宁静的喜悦中。怀着憧憬，我踏上迈凯伦 GT“ 破格之型，臻味寻踪 ” 之旅。 车子停靠在香格里拉一座典型的藏民 家庭建筑前，过去一楼畜养动物，二楼居 住的旧式结构，已经转换。我们走进偌大 的客厅，喝酥油茶，吃青稞饼，稍事歇息， 香格里拉远处的山景隐现。屋内满溢菌香， 一席传统藏式晚餐甫已上桌。藏式火锅极 具民族特色，与其他火锅不同，不是将菜 品依次放入锅内涮着吃，而是直接把各种 材料堆放在锅中，在汤里煮熟一起吃。锅 底是尼西土锅鸡汤，以尼西土锅炖出的藏 香鸡汤色泽金黄，浓香扑鼻，鲜香味美。 大锅的土鸡、酥肉、豆腐、茨菰、粉丝， 满盘清炒菌子 ：鸡油菌、牛肝菌、一窝菌、 老人头，还有琵琶肉、干野菜，配上藏式 果酒，食材本真，滋味绝佳。 入住仁安悦榕庄，宁静祥和。一早 起来，心向远山和云群，驾驶迈凯伦 GT， 过香格里拉市区，自驾两小时，来到乃皮

COURTESY OF MCLAREN (4)

O N T H E F L I G H T from Shanghai to Shangri-La City, I once again page through Lost Horizon , James Hilton’s 1933 novel that describes a paradise on earth, a land of sacred snow-covered peaks, endless fields of wildflowers, and waterfalls dancing in the sun. Once on the ground again and eager to explore such an enchanted landscape, I climb into a shiny new McLaren GT and begin my footloose journey of taste.

The first stop is a typical Tibetan-style building, an old structure that has been recently renovated and that formerly housed livestock on the ground floor and a family above. In the enormous living room, guests enjoy Tibetan butter tea and barley cakes, our eyes drawn outside to the mountains looming over the city in the distance.

As a meal of Tibetan hotpot arrives, the room fills with the delicious aroma of mushrooms. Unlike other hotpot traditions in which ingredients are added at leisure, a Tibetan hotpot cooks them all at once. The thick, fragrant broth stewed in a Nixi black earthen pot is made from the region’s famous chicken and features a variety of locally sourced ingredients, including “lute-shaped” pork, dried vegetables, tofu, broadleaf arrowhead, glass noodles, and a selection of pan-fried mushrooms: chanterelle, porcini, yi wo, and Catathelasma . The extraor-

TRAVEL

Lunch is a picnic feast of dishes based on the rare and prized mushroom, which the head chef of the nearby Songtsam Linka Shangri-La hotel transforms into a variety of delicious selections: Matsutake and Cordyceps Flower Salad; Matsutake Nixi Chicken Soup; Matsutake Barley Squash Soup; Matsutake and Trout Sashimi; Matsutake Stuffed Eggplant; Stir-Fried, PanFried, and Grilled Matsutake; and Copper Pot Braised Rice with Matsutake, Ham, and Potato. With a delicate texture that turns creamy in the mouth, matsutakes have a taste that can best be compared to abalone.

Guests come not only to eat the mushrooms but also to learn how to identify and pick them. Along with our matsutake hunter and guide, we travel deep into the forested regions around Jidi Village. The mushrooms grow in temperate zones around 3,500 meters above sea level and often near the roots of pine trees. They are so expensive because they can’t be cultivated but can only be harvested in nature. After searching a while, we find two cute, nearly oval specimens, their fresh fragrance mixed with that of wet earth and vegetation, and bring them back to the hotel with plans to include them in the evening meal.

The Songtsam Linka Shangri-La hotel lies hidden in a quiet valley, with the four-hundred-year-old Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, one of Yunnan’s premier religious landmarks, visible from nearly every room across a pastoral landscape of Tibetan villages and barley fields.

As night falls, a feast awaits with yak meat in the starring role. An appetizer of yak colostrum and carrots is followed by a thick soup of yak tail and tomato paste. Yak hoof with a side salad of greens, tomatoes, and whiskey

的松茸森林，一路风光无限，牦牛骏马随 处可见。中午的野餐是一席珍稀的松茸美 宴。松赞林卡的主厨妙用食材和调味，加 以精湛的料理手法，呈现松茸的千变万化。 松茸虫草花沙拉，尼西松茸鸡汤，松茸青 稞金瓜汤，松茸鳟鱼刺身，清炒、油煎、 炭烤松茸，松茸清酿茄子，主食铜锅松茸 云腿土豆焖饭，演绎鲜上加鲜的万千可能。 菌肉脆食之，脆嫩肥厚又不失柔韧，质地 细密，入口软润绵密，口感如鲍鱼，润滑 爽口。 但光会吃还不行，还得学习辨认和采 摘。跟着松茸猎手攀爬荆棘，遁入当地吉 迪村的深山丛林，寻找极致臻味。这种菌 类生长在寒温带海拔 3500 米以上的高山 林地，常产于松树根部区域，得 “ 松茸 ” 之名。因为不可人工培植，是真正来自大 自然的馈赠。我们经过一番寻找，获得两 枚可爱的松茸，味道清新浓郁，有着雨后 泥土与草木混合的香味。把它们带回酒店， 和牦牛宴一起享用。松赞香格里拉林卡酒 店隐匿于静谧的山谷中，与滇地最负盛名 的松赞林寺相望，其间是藏族村落和青稞 地交错的田园风光。 road of stories

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We enjoy Tibetan butter tea and barley cakes, our eyes drawn outside to the mountains looming over the city in the distance.

我们喝酥油茶，吃青稞饼， 香格里拉远处的山景隐现。

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全牦牛宴随着夜色来临。牛初乳和胡萝卜做 成开胃菜，浓汤由茄汁牛尾熬制。牛蹄配生菜、番 茄、威士忌拌抄拉，而搭配本地野生菌的牦牛牛排 出奇地鲜嫩入味。最后的甜品是牦牛酸奶布丁。主 题饮食的乐趣，在于对食材的物尽其用，各显其能。 此时，窗外山雾篝火，屋内笑语欢颜，伙伴唱起了 歌，大家跟着节拍唱和。音乐让沿途的山川草色浮 现。光影和人儿，也变得生动温暖。 翌日继续紧凑的行程，跟随迈凯伦 GT 臻味寻

踪，探访中国最好的红葡萄酒——敖云。敖云酒庄

是全球首座位于海拔 2200 米以上的葡萄酒庄。一 路攀越崎岖山路，陡峭悬崖，全新迈凯伦 GT 动力 十足且灵动如风，宛如游侠般来去自如。全景的天 窗让穿行在峡谷间的山路，也变得如同电影画面， 格外与众不同。 翻山越岭，经过近 5 个小时的驾驶，终于到 达路威酩轩集团经过四年时间寻觅到的这片净土。 敖云酒庄地处云南三江并流的中心，坐落于梅里雪 山脚下的阿东、西当、斯农、说日四个村落。敖云 有 “ 遨游云际 ” 之意，海拔高，紫外线强烈，所以 葡萄皮更厚，内涵物质丰富。日照时长，日夜温差 大，也带来高酸度和惊人的陈年潜力。敖云酒庄的 总酿酒师 Maxence Dulou 说其特点在于风土、高 定式的精细化管理和纯手工作业。 漫步园中，树下野餐，喝着云南特产的小粒 咖啡，参观酒厂，用五感去体会这里复杂独特的风 土和匠心酿造的传奇之作。敖云葡萄酒既有着旧世 界波尔多的细腻优雅，又有着新世界的集中度和浓 缩度。 站在葡萄园中，眺望三江奔流，雾气升腾， 磅礴壮阔。回望这一路的云南寻味之旅，壮游天地 的浩瀚 ；人生如旅，寻觅、发现、惊喜、分享，追 寻美味的极致，自由的广阔，也探求人生的破格 ； 路途的旅行接近尾声，而心灵的旅行，从未停顿， 从 未 终 结。 这 也 就 是 GT（Grand Tour） 的 意 义， 是为真正伟大的旅行。

COURTESY OF MCLAREN (2)

precedes the main course of yak steak with local wild mushrooms and a pudding of yak yogurt. Creativity prevails in a menu where nothing is wasted.

Outside, the light from several bonfires reflects off the evening mist, and inside, the room is filled with laughter and warm camaraderie as one of the guests breaks into a song that tells of the mountains, rivers, and plateaus of this beautiful land.

The next morning, I continue on the way to one of my most anticipated destinations, Ao Yun, China’s premier wine estate. It is one of the first vineyards to be established at an altitude of over 2,200 meters, and getting there is an amazing drive. The McLaren GT hugs the passing cliffs as it purrs along the ascending heights, cinematic in their startling beauty.

Five hours later and deep in the mountains of Shangri-La, we reach Ao Yun, whose pristine location took LVMH Group four years to find. The estate is traversed by three rivers and extends across the villages of Adong, Xidang, Sinong, and Shuori at the foot of Meili Snow Mountain. Ao Yun is named for the swirling dense clouds that fill the valley and cap the nearby peaks. At such high altitudes, the intense UV light yields grapes with thick skins and abundant pulp. The strong sunlight and large temperature differential between night and day also lend the grapes high acidity and amazing aging potential.

Ao Yun Estate Manager Maxence Dulou explains the history of Ao Yun, its unique terroir, and its meticulous management and harvest methods. As we stroll through the estate, enjoy a picnic in the shade, sip Yunnan-grown arabica coffee, and tour the winery, all of my senses are engaged in experiencing the area’s complex terroir and the unique, world-class wine that it produces. The wine of Ao Yun pairs the exquisite elegance of a Bordeaux with the fuller body and pronounced fruit flavor of New World wines.

Amid these lush vineyards perched in the foothills of the Himalayas, I look down to the Lancang, Jinsha, and Nu rivers below, the final and perhaps most majestic sight on my McLaren GT taste tour of Yunnan.

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Steamed Chinese cabbage in supreme soup 开水白菜

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TASTING NOTES

四川•当代

sichuan, contemporized At The Grand Suites at Four Seasons, Chef Lan Minglu brings innovation to a classic cuisine.

川菜之所以有名，在于其浓烈辛香料所带来 BEST KNOWN FOR ITS COMPLEX TASTES accentuated by potent 的繁复味道，但其实川菜中也有不少料理的 spices, Sichuan food also offers a wide range of less intense flavor profiles. 口味相对清淡。传统而言，川菜师傅只要 Traditionally, the region’s chefs blended a limited number of ingredients to 将仅仅几样食材混合在一起，就能创造出 create twenty-four distinct compounded flavors, or fu he wei , demonstrating 二十四种独特的复合味型。这些被称作 “ 复 the sophistication of Sichuan’s gastronomic heritage. Today, as globaliza合味 ” 的味型，展现出四川美食传统的绝妙 tion and modern shipping logistics have allowed chefs to choose from the 之处。如今，全球化和现代物流 enormous variety of foods and ingredients available around the BY 的发展使师傅得以从世界各地取 globe, there are greater possibilities to expand the identity of the IRENE SAM 得五花八门的食材，因此也就有 province’s cuisine while at the same time safeguarding its unique • 更多机会来拓展川菜之美，并使 qualities that have been passed down through generations.

PHOTOGRAPHY 其代代相传。 On the thirty-eighth floor of The Grand Suites at Four

BY DADO KIT 开放有限座位预约的荟景 38 Seasons is Vista 38, an exclusive dining space is now open to 位于四季名荟 38 楼，献上由大 public with limited seats, offering guests unique Sichuan dishes 师级中国名厨兰明路精心设计的特色川菜。 crafted by Chinese Master Chef Lan Minglu. As one of the leading chefs of 兰师傅不仅是其世代的顶尖厨师之一，还是 his generation and an authority on Sichuan food, Lan has introduced innova川味美食的翘楚，致力于将创新厨艺引入他 tive cooking techniques as part of his philosophy of “Sichuan flavors, global 的哲学－－ “ 四川的味道、世界的食材、国 ingredients, contemporary presentation.” 际的表达 ” 之中。 An expert in Cantonese as well as Sichuan cuisines, Lan is skilled in the 兰师傅是粤菜和川菜的专家，擅于料理 preparation of traditional Suzhou, Shandong, and Hunan recipes. He draws 苏州、山东和湖南的传统佳肴。 他善用广 on this vast knowledge as well as his extensive experience working in lead博的知识和丰富的经验在中国顶级酒店中执 ing hotels in China and hosting exclusive banquets in a number of foreign 业，也曾在众多国家负责私人餐宴，就是为 countries to continually advance and promote Sichuan as one of the world’s 了持续精进和推广川菜美食。 great cuisines. 兰师傅的入门弟子冯金伟说 ：“ 在很早 “From quite early on, diversity has been a major factor in the develop以前，菜式多样性就一直是我们当地饮食传 ment of our region’s gastronomical traditions,” says Chef Feng Jin Wei, a long统发展的要素。若要深入了解川菜的背景， time protégé of Chef Lan. “To deeply understand the background of Sichuan 至少要追溯到明朝，当时有大量来自广州、 cuisine, one must go back at least to the history of the Ming dynasty, when 福建、广西和别处的移民涌入四川。直至今 there was a huge migration of people from Canton, Fujian, Guangxi, and other 日，川菜仍保有海纳百川的气度，而我们也 areas into Sichuan. And so today’s modern attitude of open-mindedness 一脉相承，结合对川味的透彻理解，提升料 toward variety serves us well. With that approach and a thorough under理的境界。” standing of Sichuan flavors, we are elevating the cuisine to another level.” 荟景 38 的时令菜单都经过精心设计， Vista 38‘s seasonal menus are meticulously crafted to feature the 特色在于餐厅会精选各式最新鲜的当地及环 freshest, most carefully selected local and global ingredients in dishes that road of stories

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↑ Blue lobster with caviar and pepper sauce 冲菜擂椒蓝龙虾配大白鲟鱼子酱 → Master Chef Lan Minglu 中国烹饪大师兰明路先生

let them speak for themselves. A case in point is steamed Chinese cabbage in supreme soup. Simmered for more than twelve hours, the soup arrives clear and enticingly golden. As it is poured over premium-quality cabbage from Tianjin, the leaves open out into the shape of a lotus flower, and the dish’s elegant aromatic nuances are complemented by the cabbage’s crisp-tender texture.

Another example is the chef’s blue lobster with sake jelly, beluga caviar, green pepper, and kale. Visually appealing and tantalizing on the palate, the dish has an intriguing mélange of flavors that highlight the umami characteristics of the lobster. It is enhanced by the freshness of green pepper and kale, and sake jelly brings delightful fragrance and a hint of sweetness. Topping off the unforgettable taste experience is the seductive allure of beluga caviar.

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球食材，用心程度不言自明。招牌菜式之 一 “ 开水白菜 ” 的汤汁在煨炖超过十二个 小时后，变得清澈且呈现迷人的金黄色泽， 倾倒在顶级天津白菜上时，菜叶犹如莲花 般徐徐展开，这道汤品的淡雅清香亦完美 融合了白菜鲜嫩爽脆的口感。 另一道经典菜式则是师傅的 “ 冲菜擂 椒蓝龙虾配大白鲟鱼子酱 ”，色味俱佳， 绝妙的复合风味突显出龙虾的鲜味，冲菜 和擂椒的新鲜度使美味升华，清酒冻带来 怡人的香气和一抹甜味，点缀的大白鲟鱼 子酱则是最令人魂牵梦萦的味觉享受。

Pre-dinner snacks: rolling donkey, traditional green bean cake, peach-blossom cake 餐前小点: 驴打滚, ­ 古法绿豆糕, 桃花糕

Cold dish: tuna in sesame sauce, steamed chicken with chili sauce, geoduck with roasted pepper, spicy braised abalone, spicy bamboo pith 五味冷拼: 麻酱金枪鱼, ­ 口水鸡, 烧椒象拔蚌, 油 卤鲜鲍, 椒麻竹荪盖

Traditional Sichuan appetizers: sour and spicy spring rolls, rainbow pickles, avocado with hot pepperr 开胃碟: 酸辣三丝卷, 彩虹 泡菜, 牛油果豆豉尖椒

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匠心粤菜

OPEN-MINDED FOOD At Zi Yat Heen, a seasoned chef takes Cantonese cuisine on a never-ending journey.

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Executive Chinese Chef Charles Cheung 中餐厅行政总厨张志才

“I REFUSE TO PREPARE BORING DISHES,” says Charles Cheung, Executive Chinese Chef at Four Seasons Hotel Macao. A native Cantonese with more than forty years of experience in Chinese cuisine, Cheung developed a passion for cooking early on. At age seventeen, he’d already begun honing his culinary skills in some of the top Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong, and he eventually trained under legendary master Cheung Kam. “Several decades ago, apprentices respected their mentors wholeheartedly, and we’d work even during break time, because masters passed on their skills selectively to those who they knew had a good work ethic.”

Over the years, his dedication grew into an obsession to showcase the finest of Cantonese cuisine at Zi Yat Heen. There he continues to garner prestigious awards, including a Michelin star for the eleventh consecutive year, one-diamond recognition from Dianping’s Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, and a place on BY South China Morning Post ’s list of 100 Top Tables.

IRENE SAM Chef Cheung uses his deep knowledge of tradition and • his appreciation for culinary heritage as the basis for innoPHOTOGRAPHY vation inspired by cuisines from around the world and by his

BY DADO KIT childhood memories: “I grew up in Shanghai, and as a kid I loved Western food as well as dishes from various parts of China. Shanghainese are extremely open-minded and they don’t hesitate to explore and adapt influences from exotic places. As an adult, I travel and love to observe diverse cultures, but as a kid my favorites were Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisine.

“Today’s discerning diners are looking for new gastronomic experiences,” he says, “and they’re adventurous enough to try complex taste profiles. Some enjoy upfront flavors while others go for subtlety and nuance. Successful chefs need to be able to please everyone, and so there’s a lot of improvisation in the kitchen. That’s when a chef’s experience and memories come into play, because improvisation involves not only creativity and skill but also culinary references that transcend culture, time, and space.”

With the growing popularity of Sichuan spices among diners, Chef Cheung woos

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Crispy beef tenderloin­ 脆皮宫廷安格斯牛

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“ 我只做有趣的菜肴。” 澳门四季酒店中餐厅行政总厨张志才这么说 道。出身于广东的他自幼便对烹饪产生兴趣，十七岁开始在香港的 高级粤菜餐厅锻炼厨艺，之后跟随 ” 厨皇教父 “ 钟锦学艺，如今烹调 中式料理已逾四十载。” 几十年前，学徒都非常尊敬师傅，我们在休 息时间也会工作，因为师傅会选择把技艺传授给他们认为工作态度 积极进取的学徒。” 他多年来的磨鍊和经验成为在紫逸轩呈献顶级菜肴的坚持，也 在此赢得了不少奖项殊荣，包括连续十一年夺下《米芝莲指南》一 星荣誉、大众点评的《黑珍珠餐厅指南》一钻认证，以及入选南华 。 早报的《100 Top Tables》 张师傅以他对传统的深刻认知，以及他对烹饪文化的欣赏为根 基，揉合儿时回忆与世界各地的料理带给他的灵感，端出一道道令 人惊艳的创新菜肴。 ” 我在上海长大，从小我就很喜欢西式料理和 中国的其他菜系。上海人心胸开阔，乐于探索来自异国的新事物。 我长大后很喜欢通过旅游认识不同文化，但小时候我最喜欢的是粤 菜和淮扬菜。” 他又提及 ：” 现今的饕客会期待新型态的用餐体验，他们极具 冒险精神， 愿意尝试多层次的风味组合。有些人钟爱大胆直接的冲击， 有些人则偏好纤细雅致的呈现，杰出的主厨必须有能力满足所有人 的喜好，所以我们经常在厨房里即席创作，主厨的经验和回忆在这 时候就会派上用场。即席创作讲求的不仅是创意和技术，更要超越 文化和时空，在创作中展现出菜式的根源。” 四川香料近期席卷美食界，张总厨也端出了独创的 ” 麻婆豆腐 煮原只龙虾 ”。传统的麻婆豆腐中有丰富的辛香料，风味强烈刺激， 张总厨加入了一点西方元素，把味道调得温和些，也承袭粤菜手法 加入高汤，带出鲜香之味，演绎出这道隐约藏有四川风格的粤式龙 虾料理。 张总厨对于能够以最简朴的烹调技巧带出高品质食材的精髓感 到万分自豪，他认为中国不同菜系的差别正在逐渐缩小。他解释 ：” 过于刻板地区分彼此对我们并无好处，也没什么道理，因为现在这 个时代，资讯在弹指之间就能传递。在上个世纪，食客若要仔细分 析， 确实可以区分出香港和顺德的粤菜之间的不同。但在二十一世纪， 取得世界各地的食材易如反掌，我们在创作过程中的自由度也因而 提升。” 来到紫逸轩的客人无论是想品尝印尼的龙虾、南非的鲜鲍鱼、 日本的猪肉或其他食材，厨房都能以任何顾客期望的烹调方式呈献菜 肴。有客人提出想尝尝以辣油烹调的东星斑，深知这一代年轻人无辣 不欢的张总厨便欣然端出这道料理，实现了他们的愿望，但这石斑鱼 还有许多其他呈现方式 ：清蒸、古法蒸、炒球、蒜子火腩炆、鱼汤浸 或煎封。” 我们的客人来自中国各地和世界不同角落，为了满足如此 多元的需求， 我们在各方面都要更有弹性。我乐于每天接受这些挑战， 这让我时时刻刻保持机敏，也督促我不断学习和创新。”

↑ Braised Japanese pumpkin, local mangrove crab meat 鲜蟹肉日本南瓜羹 ← Taro, egg white & milk custard 芋茸炖鲜奶

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his clientele with a unique creation of mapo tofu and lobster. While traditional mapo tofu involves intense flavors from an abundance of spices, Chef Cheung tones down the heat by adding only a fraction of what is normally expected in the western region.

He also makes sure that the Cantonese penchant for adding stock to bring out a dish’s umami qualities is followed during the cooking process. The result is lobster prepared with Cantonese techniques but infused with understated Sichuan flair.

Cheung takes special pride in his ability to use the simplest of cooking techniques in preparing the highest-quality ingredients. And in his eyes, the differences between Chinese regional cuisines are narrowing.

“It’s not much fun when we draw distinctions between ourselves too rigidly,” says Cheung. “It also doesn’t make sense, because we live in an era where information can be exchanged in a matter of seconds. In the last century, if one really wanted to meticulously analyze, a diner could differentiate between Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine and that of Shunde. But in the twenty-first century, chefs can obtain ingredients globally, and we have a lot more freedom in our creative process.”

Whether it’s Indonesian lobster, South African abalone, or Japanese pork, customers at Zi Yat Heen can pretty much have any ingredient they order prepared in any way they want it. When some of his customers asked for leopard coral grouper in chili oil, Chef Cheung, recognizing that the younger generation can’t live without spicy food choices, didn’t hesitate to fulfill their desires. But the grouper may also be steamed in soy sauce, steamed with pork and mushrooms, stir-fried, braised with whole garlic and pork belly, poached in fish broth, or panfried in soy sauce. “In Macao we have guests from all across China and around the world. To accommodate such diversity, we have to be flexible, and I enjoy the challenge every day. It keeps me on my toes and pushes me to a journey of constant learning and innovation.”

↖ Braised Indonesian whole lobster,­ bean curd, minced pork, chili sauce 麻婆豆腐煮原只龙虾 ← Baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken 原只鲍鱼鸡粒酥

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Zi Yat Heen deluxe appetizers 紫逸轩金装拼盘

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自然精粹

NATURAL INSPIRATIONS Maison Perrier-Jouët joins forces with creative talents to explore new intersections of nature, art, gastronomy, and Champagne.

MORE THAN TWO CENTURIES AGO, newlyweds Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose-Adélaïde Jouët founded an audacious Champagne house that would be deeply influenced by their shared passions for nature and the arts. Empowered by creative freedom and unencumbered by convention, they made a visionary decision to give the starring role to the chardonnay grape. A largely BY ignored variety until then, it would bestow its disMAMIE CHEN tinctive floral notes and lively character on Maison • Perrier-Jouët’s signature style.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Nearly a century later, the couple’s grandsons INGA BECKMANN Henri and Octave Gallice confirmed the Maison’s affinity for nature and art when they commissioned Émile Gallé, a pioneer of the French Art Nouveau movement, to design a motif for their 1902 magnums. Taking inspiration from the elegant floral style of the chardonnay-forward Champagne, Gallé handenameled a delicately arching spray of gold-trimmed Japanese white anemones. The bottle design, stored away in the cellars but then forgotten for six decades, was rediscovered and reintroduced for Belle Epoque, the Maison’s prestige cuvée showcasing their best vintages.

And it has since been embraced as the iconic emblem of Maison Perrier-Jouët and its Champagnes.

Today, through frequent collaborations with a wealth of creative talents, the Maison continues to advance its founding philosophy by reimagining its nature-inspired aesthetic in a modern context. In its Hong Kong series “The Art of Revealing Nature,” Perrier-Jouët partners with two leading restaurants and two renowned French glass ateliers to create unique fine-dining experiences.

二百多年前，新婚的 Pierre-Nicolas Perrier 和

Rose-Adélaïde Jouët 成立了一间创新的香槟 酒庄，他们对大自然和艺术的热爱形塑了这 间酒庄的样貌，这双自由的灵魂抛开了常规 束缚，以独到眼光选择了霞多丽葡萄来担任 香槟的主角。当时仍默默无名的霞多丽，赋 予香槟突出的花香与活泼鲜明的特征，塑造 出 Maison Perrier- Jouët 酒庄的标志性风格。 在将近一百年后，这对夫妻的两个孙子

Henri Gallice 和 Octave Gallice 委 托 法 国 新 艺 术运动先驱 Émile Gallé 为 1902 年出产的大酒 瓶设计瓶身图纹，再度映证了 Maison Perrier-

Jouët 酒庄对于大自然和艺术的钟情。Émile 从 霞多丽香槟优雅花漾的形象中汲取灵感，以瓷 釉手绘出勾勒金边的白色银莲花，在交织成拱 状蔓藤的枝桠中绽放。这款设计图样存放于窖 中，遭遗忘了六十年之久后才重见天日，成为 顶级旗舰酒款 “Belle Epoque” 的酒瓶。自此之 后， 该 设 计 就 成 为 了 Maison Perrier-Jouët 酒 庄和其香槟最具代表性的标志。 今 时 今 日，Maison Perrier-Jouët 酒 庄 仍常与创造力十足的艺术家合作，持续秉持 创建之初的理念，呈现出受大自然启发的美 学。他们在香港推出的 “The Art of Revealing Nature” 盛宴则与两间顶级餐厅和两间法国知 名水晶工坊联手，共同打造独特不凡的精致餐 饮味觉飨宴。

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Page 64 La Sole (Dover sole with sea scallop mousse, truffle coulis with celeriac, and Perrier-Jouët Champagne sauce) paired with Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2012 and a Lalique Anemone small sculpture in gold luster crystal 比目鱼配扇贝慕斯、松露、芹菜及­ Perrier-Jouët香槟酱汁佐Perrier-Jouët ­ Belle Epoque 2012，饰以Lalique金色­ 银莲花水晶雕塑

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THE DÉCOR OF L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON,

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 大胆的红黑配

with bold signature colors of red and black and equally bold straight lines and sharp corners, initially seems to reflect the geometric character of Art Deco more than the flowing, organic elements of Art Nouveau. But a second look reveals wire baskets of picture-perfect produce hanging in the open kitchen and a living wall of plants behind the counter seats. The dining area, Le Jardin, looks out on a terrace appointed with elegant spherical trellises laced with greenery.

The restaurant, awarded three Michelin stars for nine consecutive years, makes an ideal setting for Maison Perrier-Jouët’s “The Art of Revealing Nature” series. The creative partner in this case is luxury French crystal brand Lalique, founded in 1888 by renowned glass artist and originator of modern jewelry René Lalique. In tribute to Perrier-Jouët’s classic floral emblem, Lalique and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon have selected iconic pieces from the glassmaker’s Anemone collection, which draws on original designs by René Lalique, and placed them on display for appreciation by guests.

Executive chef Adriano Cattaneo, who demurs drawing parallels with René Lalique, acknowledges a shared muse in nature: “I cannot say that I am an artist – I’m just a chef, I make food, and I try to do my best. My philosophy is to respect the product. In the kitchen, we take care with everything we receive – how we clean and store it, wasting as little as possible, protecting the quality. For sure, the guests will sense the difference.”

On the plate, simplicity reigns. The idea is that the fewer the featured ingredients, the more their natural flavors can shine through. “You must also have the skills, of course,” says Cattaneo, “but when you cook with simplicity, everything is clearer on the plate and on the palate.”

When creating a new dish, the chef often starts with

色、俐落线条和直角，乍看之下比起新

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艺术运动的流动和有机体，更趋近于装 饰艺术的几何设计风格。然而细看便会 发现开放式厨房里放了如画作般的一篮 篮农产品，吧台座椅后方的墙更是一片 绿意盎然，坐在用餐区 Le Jardin 便可看 见外面的露台，一座座缀以绿叶的优雅 球状格架罗列于露台上。 这间连续九年获得米其林三星殊荣 的餐厅作为 Maison Perrier-Jouët 的 “The

Art of Revealing Nature” 系 列 场 地 再 适 合 不 过。 这 场 盛 宴 的 艺 术 合 作 伙 伴 是

1888 年由知名玻璃艺术家兼现代珠宝大 师 René Lalique 创办的法国精品水晶品 牌 Lalique，工匠将 René 设计的秋牡丹 玻璃工艺品打造成水晶，L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 和 Lalique 精选了这系列中特 别具代表性的作品陈列于餐厅，供顾客 观赏。 行 政 主 厨 Adriano Cattaneo 认 为 自 己并无 René Lalique 的艺术大师气势，然 而他们都同样对大自然有所反思 ：“ 我不 敢说我​​是 艺术家，我只是个主厨，尽全 力做出好的食物，我的哲学是尊重食材。 所有这个厨房里的食材，我们都会悉心 处理，包括清理和收纳的方式。我们尽 量不浪费食材，也让食材展现其最佳品 质，顾客当然也能感觉出不同之处。” 在餐盘上， 简朴就是真理， 食材越少， 食物的原味就越能大放异彩。Adriano 说：

“ 精湛的厨艺当然是必备的，但以简朴的 原则烹饪时，餐盘上的菜肴和味蕾感受 到的风味都显得更加清晰。”

Adriano 创 作 新 菜 式 时， 通 常 会 先

Sommelier Felix Ho and Executive Chef Adriano Cattaneo of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 侍酒师Felix Ho及行政主厨Adriano Cattaneo ROAD OF STORIES | TK |

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PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

“You must also have the skills, of course, but when you cook with simplicity, everything is clearer on the plate and on the palate.”

精湛的厨艺当然是必备的，但以简朴的原则烹饪时， 餐盘上的菜肴和味蕾感受到的风味都显得更加清晰。”

a single product and then builds out. “I wanted to introduce Perrier-Jouët Champagne into a dish through the sauce,” he says, explaining the development of his dish called La Sole.

“Champagne goes better with fish than meat, so I use sole.

We make a fumet with the bones and combine it with the Champagne and cream. Inside the fish is a scallop mousse and the outside is glazed. We’re in season for truffles, and they’re very festive with Champagne. So we add some black truffle coulis on the sole. And truffle is a good match with celeriac, so we present flowers of black truffle with celeriac purée. Voila!”

Sommelier Felix Ho observes that “the flavors in the dish bring out more white pear and tropical fruit in the Champagne, giving it a smoother and more rounded texture.” While Cattaneo’s creative process combines his instincts for unique flavor combinations and exquisite plating with a highly rational application of cooking techniques, Ho finds that food and wine pairings are more social art than science. “What makes a good food and wine pairing for me,” he says, “is always the people and their personal preferences. There are no fixed formulas about which wine must go with which food. People love what they love. We have to communicate to understand and then adjust our suggestions.”

Experimentation, Ho finds, often results in serendipity. In pairing La Truffe, Robuchon’s signature potato salad with black truffle and mâche, he discovered that the dish’s vegetal flavors produced bitter and sour notes when matched with Blason Rosé. But the same dish with Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 revealed its fruity quality of fresh berries as well as a touch of complex earthy characters like forest floor and mushrooms.

从单项食材出发，再由此开展 ：“ 我想用 一道菜肴的酱汁来带出 Perrier-Jouët 香槟 的特色，比起肉，香槟跟鱼更搭，所以我 选了比目鱼。我们用鱼骨熬出原汁，再混 拌进香槟和鲜奶油，鱼肉里放了干贝慕斯， 外层裹以糖汁。现在是松露的季节，而且 松露搭配起香槟，会塑造出相当热闹的节 庆氛围，因此我们淋了一点黑松露酱在比 目鱼上，而松露又跟块根芹很相称，所以 我们把黑松露刨成花来搭配块根芹泥，这 样就完成了。” 侍酒师 Felix Ho 解释 ：“ 这道菜的风 味带出了香槟的白梨和热带水果香气，让 这支酒的质感更显柔和丰富。”Adriano 创 作料理的过程结合了他对独特风味组合的 直 觉、 雅 致 的 摆 盘 与 精 湛 的 厨 艺， 然 而

Felix 认为餐酒搭配与其说是科学，更像是 一门社交艺术。“ 对我来说，成功的餐酒搭 配重点在于人和个人偏好，酒跟食物的搭 配从来没有绝对的公式，人们都会有自己 的喜好。我们从跟顾客的交谈中了解他们 的喜好，再借此调整我们推荐的搭配。”

Felix 发现尝试不同搭配常能引发意外 的惊喜，Robuchon 的招牌黑松露羊齿菜马 铃薯沙拉的蔬菜风味能带出 Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé 淡 淡 的 苦 味 及 酸 味， 然 而 与

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 搭配 时，却让其新鲜莓果的香气得以绽放，也 带出一丝林地和蕈菇般的土壤气息。

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Today, the Anemone collection by French crystal atelier Lalique takes a leaf from its founder’s book, capturing the precious expressions of nature in the elegant curves and harmonious lines of its delicate blossoms.

Representing purity and innocence, the anemone served as inspiration for many in the Art Nouveau movement, including Émile Gallé, the designer of Perrier-Jouët’s emblematic Belle Epoque bottle imagery, and René Lalique, renowned artist and glassmaker.

La Truffe (Roseval potato salad with black truffle and baby mâche leaves) paired with Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 and a stopper from a Lalique 2 Anemones decanter in red crystal and white enamel

法国水晶品牌Lalique的工作室从创始 人的著作中找到了这朵银莲花，并创 作了银莲花系列作品，捕捉了花朵转 瞬即逝的优雅和线条美。

银莲花象征纯洁无邪，成为许多艺术 家在新艺术运动期间的灵感来源，其 中包括为Perrier-Jouët设计标志性Belle Epoque酒瓶图样的Émile Gallé，以及 著名玻璃艺术家René Lalique。

红皮马铃薯沙拉、黑松露及嫩野苣 叶佐Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012，饰以Lalique银莲花红色水晶， 白色珐琅盛酒器的酒塞

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① Exotic in grace and beauty, the orchid is a symbol of luxurious elegance. Richly decorated with a profusion of orchid blossoms, Daum’s Orchid Flowers centerpiece conjures the lush splendor of a garden in full bloom. 兰花散发出美丽与优雅的气息，是奢华高雅的象征。Daum 的这件制作成一束兰花的中心摆件，令人仿似置身于华丽 锦绣、繁花盛放的花园。

② L’Oursin D’Hokkaido (Hokkaido sea urchin box, gamberoni, and crunchy fennel) paired with Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2012 and a Maison Daum Orchid Flowers light centerpiece 北海道海胆配红虾及香脆小茴香佐Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2012，饰以Daum兰花中心摆件

自 John Jacob Astor IV 在 1904 年 于 纽 约市开设首间瑞吉酒店后，艺术品的设 置就成了该集团旗下酒店的重要元素。 香港瑞吉酒店中也四处陈列原创艺术 品，邀请顾客一同鉴赏，有些作品的摆 设位置较为明显，而当米其林一星餐厅

L’Envol 的客人走进用餐空间，只一环视 就会明白，精致餐饮和艺术品在这里是 密不可分的。 出 自 艺 术 家 Helaine Blumenfeld 之 手的抽象大理石雕像置于餐厅中央，摆 放雕像的座台都显得愈发高雅。这座呈 现对比的作品在固结中见流动、风格化 同 时 追 寻 自 然、 又 在 宁 静 中 隐 含 躁 动。 餐 厅 采 用 柔 和 的 象 牙 色 和 米 色 为 基 调， 穿插一抹抹炫目的金色装饰，雕像两侧 的 苔 球 为 整 个 空 间 带 来 大 自 然 的 绿 意， 更显生气盎然。 From left to right, Culinary Director Olivier Elzer, Pastry Chef ­ Mandy Siu, and Chief Sommelier Tristan Pommier of L’Envol 从左至右： L’Envol 餐饮总监 Olivier Elzer，甜点主厨 Mandy Siu 及首席侍酒师 Tristan Pommier

在 L’Envol 的 “The Art of Revealing Nature” 盛 宴 中， 还 能 同 时 欣 赏 Maison

Daum 最具代表性的水晶艺术品。这间法 国著名水晶工坊的声望在新艺术运动时 期跃上巅峰，至今的创作也仍保有自由 流动的现代风格与自然造物的活力主调。 硕 大 的 开 放 式 厨 房 是 L’Envol 的 核

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心，顾客可以在此欣赏精致菜肴的烹调

Hotel in New York in 1904, the hotel group has upheld a tradition of adorning its properties with works of fine art. To invite discovery, St. Regis Hong Kong‘s collection of original art is displayed throughout the premises. Some pieces are easier to spot than others, but guests of Michelin-starred L’Envol can easily see from one sweeping glance around the room that fine dining and the fine arts go hand in hand.

Gracing the center console is a stunning abstract marble sculpture by Helaine Blumenfeld, a study of contrasts in its fluid concreteness, organic stylization, and restless tranquility. Vibrant moss balls flank the sculpture, bringing a touch of natural greenery to the restaurant’s sophisticated palette of ivory and beige with accents of bright gold.

In celebration of The Art of Revealing Nature, L’Envol has put on display some iconic art pieces by Maison Daum, the venerable French crystal atelier

艺 术， 由 餐 饮 总 监 Olivier Elzer 领 军 的

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团队优雅地穿梭其中，一如新艺术运动。 他们的灵感同样源于大自然，也尤其珍 视食材的季节性。Olivier 表示 ：“ 我们能 品尝这些食材的时间非常短暂，产季一 结束，就轮到下一样食材登场。可以为 顾客展现大自然运作的原则、让他们意 识到能拥有这些食材有多幸运，是一件 很美妙的事。”

Olivier 特别精选北海道海胆，作为 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2012 的 完 美 伴侣。他介绍 ：“ 这道海胆菜式是我们的 招牌菜，所以顾客都会期望可以在餐厅

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“2012 was a warm year, and you can see how the chef de caves worked well to find freshness and acidity to bring balance and elegance to Belle Epoque Rosé.

2012年是很温暖的一年，窖主在酿制过程 中精准地拿捏了清新的香气与酸味。”

that achieved prominence during the Art Nouveau movement, an influence that continues to inspire its modern style of free-flowing and dynamic motifs found in natural forms.

The culinary centerpiece of L’Envol is its large open kitchen, for it is there that guests can observe culinary director Olivier Elzer and his team performing their haute-cuisine artistry. Inspired, like Art Nouveau, by nature, they pay special attention to seasonality. “It’s nice to show guests how nature works and help them appreciate how lucky we are to have these ingredients that are available for such a short time,” says Elzer. “When their season is finished, we move on to the next ones.”

For a special pairing with Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2012, Elzer puts the spotlight on Hokkaido sea urchin. “The uni box is a signature dish,” he says, “so guests always expect it on the menu. On my side, I need to ensure the quality of the uni.” That can be a challenge, with peak seasons varying by the type of uni and the part of the island they’re harvested from. “Right now is the perfect time for this uni. Its sweetness is a beautiful match with the Champagne.”

Chief sommelier Tristan Pommier revels in the pairing’s contrasts: “Between the sea urchin and the gamberoni, this is a dish with a lot of texture and richness.

Belle Epoque has enough ripe fruit to go with the richness and enough freshness and bubbles to cut through the texture.”

On the sweet side, Pommier collaborates with pastry chef Mandy Siu on a pairing in which the flavors in the dish and notes in the Champagne mutually echo and enhance each other. “2012 was a warm year,” says Pommier, “and you can see how the chef de caves worked well to find freshness and acidity to bring balance and elegance to Belle Epoque Rosé. It’s a perfect pairing with this dessert.”

Siu expertly selects and integrates ingredients into La Douceur Surprise that match the floral, red fruit, and pink grapefruit aromas of Belle Epoque Rosé 2012.

“I like to use seasonal fruits in my desserts,” she says “and find unique combinations with the fresh tastes.”

She starts with Mara des Bois, a tender and juicy French strawberry that is more fragrant and flavorful than other everbearing varieties, and cooks them into a violet-infused compote. At the last minute, it is poured atop a floating island meringue enshrouding a secret scoop of pink grapefruit sorbet and garnished with crystallized violets and purple shiso leaves.

品尝到。我的任务是要确保我们取得 高品质的海胆。” 然而这并非易事，因 为不同海胆种类和采收地区的旺季时 段都不尽相同。“ 这种海胆现在正值最 美味的黄金时期，它的甜味跟香槟相 佐，形成绝妙的搭配。” 首 席 侍 酒 师 Tristan Pommier 相 当钟情于这个组合展现的强烈对比 ：

“ 这道菜肴的海胆和虾绽放出多层次 又 浓 郁 的 风 味，Perrier-Jouët Belle

Epoque 2012 的 成 熟 水 果 香 气 足 以 匹 配菜肴的浓郁，新鲜气息和气泡也让 料理丰富的层次显得更加分明。”

Tristan 也与甜点主厨 Mandy Siu 联 手， 甜 点 和 香 槟 在 搭 配 之 下 烘 托 出 彼 此 的 特 色， 风 味 更 显 相 得 益 彰。

Tristan 说 ：“2012 年是很温暖的一年， 窖主显然在酿制过程中精准地拿捏了 清新的香气与酸味，因此 Perrier-Jouët

Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 的韵味既平衡 又高雅，搭配这道甜点再完美不过。”

Mandy 精心挑选组合不同食材制 成 “ 甜美惊喜 ”，以搭配 Perrier-Jouët

Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 的花香、红色 水果和粉红葡萄柚的香气。她说 ：“ 我 喜欢用当季水果制作甜点，也喜欢在 水果新鲜的风味中找寻独特的组合。”

Mandy 选用的法国玛哈草莓娇嫩 多汁，香气和风味都较一般长日品种 更为强烈，她萃取出浸渍紫罗兰的风 味， 将草莓小火慢煮成果酱。出餐之际， 一球粉红葡萄柚雪酪隐身于蛋白霜制 成的漂浮岛下方，她将果酱浇在蛋白 霜上，再以覆裹糖霜的紫罗兰和紫苏 叶做最后装饰。

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A universal symbol of love, roses are timeless in their classic beauty.

In its Rose Passion collection, Maison Daum captures the moment when shy rosebuds unfurl their velvety petals into open blooms of effortless charm and grace.

La Douceur Surprise (floating island meringue, Mara Des Bois compote, and pink grapefruit sorbet) paired with Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 and a Maison Daum Rose Passion white decorative flower

永恒经典、美丽动人的玫瑰是爱的象征。Daum的激情玫瑰系列定格 了精致的花蕾绽放其柔软的花瓣，盛开成优雅隽永的玫瑰的一瞬间。

浮岛蛋白霜，玛哈草莓果酱及粉红葡萄柚雪酪佐Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012，饰以Daum白色激情玫瑰装饰花朵

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PRESENTED BY THE USA CHEESE GUILD

赏心“酪”事

whey special Two chefs create a complex dish that reveals the quality and craftsmanship of U.S. cheeses.

Chris Grare 与挚友 Arron Rhodes 共同 经 营 香 港 的 Kinship 餐 厅， 他 说 ：“ 我 potato, and elevate it to a new level,” says Chris Grare, 们喜欢将像马铃薯这种朴实的食材提升 co-owner with fellow chef and good friend Arron 至更高层次，而奶酪的影响力远大于想 Rhodes of Hong Kong restaurant Kinship. “And cheese,” 像，我们的马铃薯奶酪饼就以三种截然 he adds, “influences us more than we might think. In 不同的方式呈现了马铃薯和奶酪。” our Potato Cheese Cake, we’ve made three different 马铃薯这种寻常的块 applications of both potato and cheese.” 茎 植 物 在 Chris 和 Arron 的 Grare and Rhodes demonstrate the BY 精湛技艺下展现出丰富的 versatility of the common tuber through MAMIE CHEN 样貌：经刨丝、油炸、水煮、 skillful manipulation. Grating and frying, boil• 搅打、切片与烘烤成外酥内 ing and blending, slicing and baking allow PHOTOGRAPHY BY 软的马铃薯饼、轻盈如泡的 them to present a diverse range of textures, SAMANTHA SIN 慕斯和松脆的安娜马铃薯 from a crisp-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the片， 幻 化 出 多 变 口 感。 马 inside rösti to a light and frothy mousse to 铃薯的风味则有如一幅空白的画布，让 a gratifyingly crunchy pommes Anna. Flavorwise, the 奶酪多变的味道及质地绽放出咸香的基 potato offers a blank canvas upon which cheeses of 调、突出的重味与若有似无的一抹甜。 varying flavors and textures provide savory undertones, 这道料理的核心─ 马铃薯慕斯 sharp accents, and subtly sweet notes. ─ 在两位主厨原先的设计中并未用到 The chefs’ original recipe for a central component

“WE LIKE TO TAKE the humblest ingredient, like a

of the dish, potato mousse, did not in fact call for any cheese at all. But Grare, who was already familiar with southern Oregon’s renowned Rogue Creamery and its Oregon Blue cheese (a more approachable sister to its 2019 World Cheese Awards champion, Rogue River Blue), welcomed the added creaminess and injection of flavor. “It’s soft enough to melt into the mousse and also has that funkiness to put it on the bolder spectrum of flavor,” he says.

Grare and Rhodes find that BellaVitano Gold from Wisconsin tastes similar to a white cheddar with the nuttiness of Parmesan and that it melts nicely into the dish’s flavorful Mornay sauce. They save the Vermontproduced Alpha Tolman, a semi-hard, cave-aged cheese that follows traditional Alpine methods of cooking and curd pressing, for an aromatic last-second grating over the top. Like its European cousins, Alpha Tolman can range, depending on its age, from a smooth buttery nuttiness to a rich earthiness with crystalline texture.

Although the two chefs admit to having limited experience with cheeses from the U.S., they’ve been impressed by the fine artisanal quality of their samplings thus far. “These cheeses rate high compared to their European counterparts,” says Rhodes. “The experience has certainly made us think in creative new ways about U.S. cheese.”

奶酪，然而 Chris 相当熟悉俄勒冈州著 名的奶酪生产商 Rogue Creamery 与其 出产的俄勒冈蓝纹奶酪（类似于 2019 年世界奶酪大赛冠军 “ 罗格河蓝纹奶 ，因此他欣然 酪 ”，但较为平易近人） 将这款奶酪的乳香及风味融入这道料 理 ：“ 这奶酪相当柔软，足以溶在慕斯 中，蓝霉的刺鼻也让它保有大胆创新的 味道。”

Chris 和 Arron 发现来自威斯康星 州的芭拉维他金奶酪味道就像多了一股 帕玛森坚果味的白切达，独特风味与菜 式中香气四溢的奶酪白酱十足相称。带 浓浓香味、最后刨于上方的奶酪是来自 佛蒙特州出产的阿尔发托曼奶酪，这款 于洞穴中熟成的半硬质奶酪制程遵循阿 尔卑斯山熬煮压实的古法，风味和质地 也如同欧洲的阿尔卑斯山奶酪般会随熟 成时间改变，能呈现从细滑的奶油坚果 味到结晶状的浓厚土味。 尽管两位主厨未曾大量运用美国 出产的奶酪，但他们目前尝到的工匠奶 酪品质细致，令他们印象深刻。Arron 说 ：“ 这几款奶酪跟欧洲奶酪相比，表 现也相当优异。对于美国出产的奶酪， 我们有了更加新颖的想法。” road of stories

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PRESENTED BY THE USA CHEESE GUILD

POTATO CHEESE CAKE

Oregon Blue mousse, lemon thyme rösti, BellaVitano Mornay, pommes Anna

POTATO RÖSTI

OREGON BLUE MOUSSE

BELLAVITANO MORNAY

GARNISH

200 g 20 g 2 g 1 g 12 g

200 g milk 25 g garlic, sliced 300 g Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled 50 g potato cooking water 1 g kosher salt 20 g lemon juice 25 g butter 90 g U.S. Oregon Blue cheese

50 g 50 g 600 g 120 g

3 pc. pommes Anna 5 g grated U.S. Alpha Tolman 2 g parsley oil

potato, peeled brown butter fresh lemon thyme salt lemon zest

1. Peel and grate potato, using large holes of cheese grater.

2. Heat small nonstick pan on low.

3. Squeeze out all liquid from grated potato.

4. Season potato with brown butter, salt, lemon zest, and lemon thyme.

5. Fill pan to the top with potato, pressing it down firmly.

6. Cook on medium until edges are brown.

7. Carefully flip and repeat.

8. Remove from pan and cut into quarters.

1. Cover potatoes with water and simmer on low until tender.

2. Meanwhile, bring garlic and milk to a simmer for 5 min., strain out garlic, and reserve milk.

3. Peel potatoes and place in blender with milk, potato cooking water, salt, butter, and cheese.

4. Blend 1 min.

5. Place in iSi cream charger and charge twice (if charger is unavailable, simply use warmed mousse).

flour butter milk U.S. BellaVitano cheese salt, to taste

ASSEMBLY

1. Melt butter in a large pan on medium heat, add flour, whisk together, and cook for 3 to 4 min. until light brown and fragrant.

2. Add milk and whisk continuously for about 5 min. until mixture is thickened.

3. Crumble in cheese and whisk until melted and smooth; salt to taste.

1. Place potato rösti pieces on one side of shallow bowl and cover with Mornay sauce.

2. Using iSi cream charger, fill remaining space of bowl with Oregon Blue mousse.

3. To finish, drizzle parsley oil over mousse, garnish with pommes Anna, and grate U.S. Alpha Tolman over top.

马铃薯奶酪饼 俄勒冈蓝纹奶酪慕斯、柠檬百里香马铃薯饼、芭拉维他奶酪白酱、安娜马铃薯片

马铃薯饼

俄勒冈蓝纹奶酪慕斯

芭拉维他奶酪白酱

装饰

200 g 去皮马铃薯 20 g 焦化黄油 2 g 新鲜柠檬百里香 1 g 盐 12 g 柠檬皮

200 g 牛奶 25 g 蒜片 300 g 育空黄金马铃薯 50 g 烹煮马铃薯的清水 1 g 犹太盐 20 g 柠檬汁 25 g 黄油 12 g 俄勒冈蓝纹奶酪

50 g 面粉 50 g 黄油 600 g 牛奶 120 g 芭拉维他奶酪 适量 盐

3片 安娜马铃薯片 5 g 碎阿尔发托曼奶酪 2 g 欧芹油

1. 马铃薯去皮并以大孔奶酪研磨 器刨成丝。 2. 加热小型平底不黏锅。 3. 榨出研磨后的马铃薯的水分。 4. 以焦化黄油、盐、柠檬皮及柠 檬百里香为马铃薯调味。 5. 把马铃薯放进平底锅至满， 再压实。 6. 以中火烹调至马铃薯边缘焦 黄。 7. 小心地不停翻转马铃薯饼。 8. 取出马铃薯饼，并切成四份。

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1. 清水盖过马铃薯，以小火煮 至软糯。 2. 蒜片与牛奶一同烹煮五分钟， 之后隔出蒜片，保留牛奶。 3. 马铃薯去皮，与牛奶、烹煮马 铃薯的清水、盐、黄油及奶酪 一起放进搅拌器。 4. 搅拌一分钟。 5. 混合物放进iSi奶油发泡枪， 并打发两次（如没有奶油发泡 枪，可加入温暖的慕斯）。

1. 以中火融化黄油，加入面粉并 搅绊，烹煮三至四分钟至混合 物变金黄及带香。 2. 加入牛奶，不停搅绊大约五分 钟至变得黏稠。 3. 加入碎奶酪，搅拌至溶化滑 顺，并加入适量盐调味。

组合 1. 把马铃薯饼放在碗边，淋上贝 拉维塔诺奶酪白酱。 2. 以iSi奶油发泡枪注入俄勒冈 蓝纹奶酪慕斯，填满碗盘。 3. 最后滴上欧芹油，并放上安娜 马铃薯片及碎阿尔发托曼奶酪 作装饰。

Ginger Crispy Chicken paired with Chablis Premier Cru, Butteaux, 2016, Domaine PATTES LOUP 香酥沙姜鸡选配2016年 Domaine PATTES LOUP 比 托沙比利一级葡萄园酒

PRESENTED BY CHABLIS

精选佐酿 风味加乘

holistically paired Cantonese dishes matched with wines from Chablis add up to far more than the sum of their parts.

香港瑰丽酒店中菜行政总厨李志伟说道 ：“ 我们 并没有故步自封。” 他提及粤菜在过去是极为传 Rosewood Hong Kong. Cantonese cuisine, he says, tended to be very 统的菜系，但随着时代变迁，原先最固守传统 traditional in the past, but with changing times, even the most old的食客和主厨都渐渐敞开心胸，迎接新型态的 school of diners and chefs are becoming more open-minded. “And wine 到来。他补充 ：“ 以葡萄酒佐餐也不应只是西餐 pairings should not be limited to Western styles of cuisine.” 的特权。” The Legacy House, the hotel’s signature Cantonese 瑰丽酒店的特色粤菜餐厅彤福 restaurant, offers virtually limitless resources for creative BY 轩的选酒搭配创意可谓无穷无尽，酒 pairings – its extensive wine selection includes more than ANDREA LO 单上有超过二千种葡萄酒。 two thousand labels.

• 已故的瑰丽酒店集团母公司创 Recently, Li teamed up with Nicolas Deneux, Rosewood’s PHOTOGRAPHY BY 办人郑裕彤的家乡位于珠江三角洲 Asia area wine director, to develop two imaginative pairSAMANTHA SIN 一带的顺德，彤福轩以精致的顺德 ings in what could best be described as an evolving process 菜向他致敬。彤福轩的李总厨最近 based on the careful balance of flavor profiles. The Legacy 与 瑰 丽 酒 店 集 团 的 葡 萄 酒 亚 洲 区 总 监 Nicolas House specializes in dishes from Shunde district in the Pearl River Delta Deneux 携手合作，细选最脍炙人口的两道菜肴 region, a nod to Cheng Yu-Tung, the late founder of the hotel group’s

“WE’RE NOT BOXED IN,” says Li Chi Wai, Chinese executive chef at

parent company, who was born there. Li and Deneux chose two of the restaurant’s popular favorites to match with wines from young producers in Chablis, the historic French winemaking region renowned for its dry, light, fresh productions.

来搭配沙比利年轻酒厂出产的酒品。这个法国 产区以清淡爽口的干型葡萄酒闻名。李总厨和

Nicolas 研拟出两种创意十足的餐酒搭配，以风 味上的细腻平衡带出完美的味觉飨宴。 road of stories

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PRESENTED BY CHABLIS

Li Chi Wai and Nicolas Deneux 李志伟及Nicolas Deneux

Ginger crispy chicken, a new take on the classic Cantonese dish, was paired with Chablis Premier Cru, Butteaux, 2016, Domaine PATTES LOUP. This wine has a “young, vivid” profile, notes Deneux, that works well with the ginger’s acidity and spicy quality. Wines from Butteaux terroir, he says, are known for being “more approachable” when they’re young. The clay in the soil helps the wine to open up more quickly, and its round, full body “really enhances the vibrancy and the freshness of the dish.”

Li’s dish of steamed crab claw, tofu, and chicken broth is paired with Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre, 2014 , Domaine CHRISTOPHE et Fils, which Deneux chose for its “citrusy and lean” profile. It complements the tofu’s silky consistency, he adds, and enhances the rich chicken broth with its acidity and leanness. The dish’s ingredients, in turn, contribute volume, creaminess, and texture. “It’s a harmony of flavors,” says Chef Li.

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香酥沙姜鸡是一道以全新手法呈现的经典 粤菜，佐以 2016 年 Domaine PATTES LOUP 比托 沙比利一级葡萄园酒。这支被 Nicolas 称为 “ 年 轻且风味鲜明 ” 的酒，与姜的酸度和辣味相得益 彰。Nicolas 解释说这款酒在年轻时风味较为醇 和，富含陶土的生长土壤也加速了醒酒过程，浑 润厚实的酒体让这道菜肴的鲜味更上一层楼。 李总厨的另一道拿手菜式金汤蟹钳翠豆腐 则佐以 2014 年 Domaine CHRISTOPHE et Fils 汤 尼尔沙比利一级葡萄园酒。Nicolas 认为这支带 有清酸柑橘香的酒，能映衬出豆腐丝滑的口感， 其酸度也更突显鸡高汤的浓郁。整道菜肴带出了 纯厚、香浓的口感，李总厨称它们为 “ 风味的天 作之合 ”。

Steamed Crab Claw, Tofu, ­ Chicken Broth paired ­ with Chablis Premier Cru, ­ Montée de Tonnerre, 2014, Domaine CHRISTOPHE et Fils 金汤蟹钳翠豆腐选配2014年 Domaine CHRISTOPHE et Fils 汤尼尔沙比利一级葡萄园酒

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IMAGES: SEKI, BEN HU

TASTING EVENT

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湖中撷珠 漫淬时光

enchanted evenings In a series of four extraordinary TK dining events, Loch Lomond Scotch whiskies meet the flavors of China.

TASTING EVENT

TRUE TO ITS MOT TO, “Never Follow,” the Loch Lomond Group has always been a trailblazer, from its birth in 1814 in the Scottish Highlands to its modern-day arrival in China.

Front and center are the company’s respect for diverse cultures, its willingness to follow in the footsteps of taste and inspiration, and its enthusiasm for discovering the distinctly Chinese flavors that best complement its line of premium whiskies.

Recently, the venerable brand found ideal partners in four top Shanghai restaurants recognized by the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, the prestigious F&B review-and-rating platform that has come to represent the pinnacle in Chinese cuisine and dining. In a oneof-a-kind series spread over four evenings, Tasting Kitchen Media Group ( TK) brought together Loch Lomond and the four Black Pearl restaurants for an in-depth experience of traditional and contemporary cuisines bridging cultures and spanning centuries.

Good food of course requires equally good drink, and Loch Lomond was on hand to present three of its top-tier products: Loch Lomond Single Grain Peated Scotch Whisky, Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, and Loch Lomond 18 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky. These exquisite spirits highlighted and inspired each evening’s culinary fusion.

EVENING 1: LOCH LOMOND AND RIVER DRUNK The art of making of exceptional whisky has a long and storied tradition, as do the many traditional cuisines of China. River Drunk, one of the premier voices of classic Huaiyang food, has been recognized for two consecutive years by the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide and has also been awarded The Michelin Plate.

With a rich décor featuring a motif of white Yulan magnolia flowers and lavish use of jade and glass, River Drunk offers an abundant menu, one that especially flaunts the delights of river fish. One standout dish presented at TK’s Loch Lomond X Black Pearl Restaurants dining event was hand-peeled Long Jing prawns paired with Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky. These luscious shrimp are famed for their fresh sweet taste and firm texture, perfect when matched with the whisky’s subtle floral notes, unique peat flavor, and long, satisfying finish.

For a symphony of taste, luxurious Wagyu Shimizu beef was paired with Loch Lomond 18 Year Old Single Malt. The whisky’s long maturation time allows for the expression of the sweeter character of the oak casks along with subtle hints of peat and smoke for a wellbalanced finish.

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IMAGES: SEKI, BEN HU

EVENING 2: LOCH LOMOND AND THE PEACOCK ROOM The second session of fine food and spirits took place at The Peacock Room, a Black Pearl and Michelin Plate restaurant elegantly embellished throughout with a peacock theme.

Executive Chef Sam Zhang leads his team in an ongoing exploration of the origins of Sichuan cuisine. In addition to reconstructing the twenty-four foundational flavors of Sichuan cooking, the chef also works with other traditions, integrating them into his style as he reproduces the multisensory experience characteristic of imperial-palace Sichuan cuisine.

The menu’s savory opening of pork neck canapés was paired with Loch Lomond 12

成立于 1814 年的罗曼湖集团秉承 “Never Follow 永不从众 ” 的品牌主张，以开拓者的身 姿从苏格兰高地抵及华夏大地，遵循对文化风土的尊重，追随味觉与灵感的迸发，寻找 与威士忌相得益彰的中华源味。 由 Tasting Kitchen（TK）媒体集团特别策划，联合在苏格兰威士忌界有着悠久历史 与绝佳口碑的罗曼湖集团，携手代表中餐极致体验的黑珍珠餐厅，联袂呈现四站融现代 与传统，集经典与创新为一体的 “ 湖中撷珠，源味之路 ” 私享晚宴。 品味美馔，少不了美酒相伴。每一站的晚宴，罗曼湖均带来了三款纯正威士忌 ：罗 曼湖苏格兰单一谷物威士忌、罗曼湖 12 年苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌和罗曼湖 18 年苏格兰 单一麦芽威士忌。浅酌一口醇厚佳酿，四场融贯中西的美食美酒之旅就此徐徐展开。

第一站 ：罗曼湖 X 游宴一品淮扬餐厅 酿造威士忌，是时光的艺术。中华传统的美食文化，也如同一瓶馥郁的陈年威士忌， 漫淬时光 ” 首场晚宴选择了连续两年上榜 “ 黑 处处彰显时光的魅力。罗曼湖 “ 湖中撷珠， 珍珠餐厅指南 ” 的游宴一品淮扬餐厅联袂寻味，共谱盛宴。 游宴一品淮扬的装潢以高雅的白玉兰为主题，配以美玉琉璃装饰，菜式选择多样， 各式河鲜尤为一绝。晚宴上的一道龙井手剥鲜虾仁，配以罗曼湖 12 年苏格兰单一麦芽 威士忌。这些手剥虾仁以口感咸鲜脆嫩、后味甘甜闻名，与威士忌独特的馥郁花香、泥 煤风味和悠长余味完美配搭，以鲜会鲜，令人回味无穷。

Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, whose mellow aroma and smooth finish of smoke and peat wonderfully complemented the fatty richness of the meat as well as the sweetness of the glaze.

Next came a long-time favorite at The Peacock Room, M3 Cattle Company beef head. This traditional Sichuan dish found the perfect partner in Loch Lomond 18 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Aged in oak barrels carefully chosen by senior cooper Tommy Wallace, this whisky features the subtle flavor of oak brought out by time and nature, as well as hints of peat and smoke. Non-chill filtration ensures that the whisky’s aroma and character shine through.

EVENING 3: LOCH LOMOND AND LU STYLE Honored for two years running by Black Pearl, Lu Style is committed to the highest standards of ingredient sourcing and offers a menu that highlights the seafood bounty of China’s Shandong region. Inspired by tradition, the restaurant elevates and modernizes simple home-style dishes to fine-dining status.

Yimeng six-flavor pancakes are imaginatively matched with Loch Lomond Single Grain Peated Scotch Whisky. The sweet grain taste of the millet meets the fruity profile of this remarkable spirit, a pairing that brings to mind the freshness of rolling green hills and the fragrant earth.

Lu Style’s roasted sea cucumber with UMI mushrooms is accompanied by Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Single Malt. The whisky’s fruity character of peach and pear layered with a vanilla sweetness beautifully echoes the fragrant aroma of the sea cucumber and highlights its delectable consistency and flavor. Peat and smoke notes enhance the mushrooms’ umami for a mellow and lingering finish.

IMAGES: SEKI, BEN HU

EVENING 4: LOCH LOMOND AND ZI FU HUI With elegant premises that offer the serenity of a Zen-inspired dining room, Zi Fu Hui has been selected by Black Pearl and also awarded The Michelin Plate. The chefs have chosen lighter, more contemporary Cantonese cooking methods to highlight the natural taste of the menu’s perfectly fresh seafood. In doing so, they’ve created a haute-cuisine Cantonese style that has garnered international acclaim.

At the TK-hosted event, Maotai-soaked crab is partnered with Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky. The baijiu-infused sauce and the whisky’s fruity character and vanilla notes meld to complement the sweet crabmeat in a harmony of truly intoxicating flavors.

Fried eel and tofu with roe sauce is matched with Loch Lomond Single Grain Scotch Whisky. Done to a perfect flakiness, the eel is accentuated by a savory roe sauce that floods the palate with its rich aroma. The sauce’s intensity is balanced by the tofu’s mild creaminess, and the whisky, an ideal companion for the dish’s flavor profile, offers up hints of pineapple and a fresh, clear finish.

TASTING EVENT

罗曼湖 18 年苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌漫长的熟成时间与纯天然的熟成环境，使木桶的甜 美特质与细腻的泥煤烟熏气息展现出平衡美感，搭配整块清水原味和牛肉，在舌尖上奏响一 首美妙协奏曲 ：唯美、平衡、令人陶醉。

第二站 ：罗曼湖 X 孔雀厅 第二场珠联璧合的美食盛宴在位于上海的黑珍珠及米其林餐盘餐厅 —— 孔雀厅揭开帷 幕。孔雀厅行政主厨 Sam Zhang 不断发掘川菜的传统本源，并揉合其他菜系所长，创意重构， 以别具一格的艺术美感，携当代创意川菜 —— 贰拾肆川味，再现官府菜的多重感官美食体验。 主厨精选肉质如雪花般均匀分布的猪颈肉，以糖浆包裹，制成爽口猪颈肉。罗曼湖 12 年苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌的醇香与鲜美的肉质融合，相互激发出更独特的风味。 味道浓鲜醇厚的 M3 牛头方是孔雀厅的招牌菜式之一。这道传统四川名菜与罗曼湖 18 年单一麦芽威士忌，仿如天造地设的一对。罗曼湖 18 年威士忌在高级桶匠 Tommy Wallace 精心挑选的橡木桶中陈酿，长达 18 年时光淬炼为它带来微妙的泥煤与烟熏气息，非冷凝过 滤则可保留威士忌的芳香及特色风味。

第三站 ：罗曼湖 X 鲁采 第三场晚宴选择了连续两年上榜 “ 黑珍珠餐厅指南 ” 的鲁采。来自齐鲁大地的丰富海产、 高标准采购食材及升华家常料理的理念，令鲁采与秉承先锋精神的罗曼湖的这场相遇，在味 觉之上迸发出探寻与创新的灵感火花。 当沂蒙六味煎饼中小米的谷香，在口中遇到罗曼湖苏格兰单一谷物威士忌充满水果香 气的谷物风味，唇齿间绽放出清甜浓郁的乡间大地气息，令人久久回味。 与鲁采古法烧海参配乌米菌配搭的罗曼湖 12 年苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌，带有圆润的香 草奶油气息和浓郁的桃子与梨的混合果香，与海参的绵长香浓气息相互呼应，令其丰润的特 质更为彰显。乌米菌的鲜美则与酒中轻微的烟熏气息相得益彰，余韵悠长。

第四站 ：罗曼湖 X 子福慧 · 坤 作为收官之站，第四场晚宴选择了曾上榜 “ 黑珍珠餐厅指南 ” 和米其林餐盘名单的高端 中餐饮品牌 —— 子福慧。餐厅装饰雅致柔和，化繁为简，打造充满禅意的用餐空间。菜式方 面，不同于传统苏帮浓汁重色的烹调方式，子福慧以粤菜的手法烹调时令江鲜、河鲜，力求 展现食材本身的天然滋味，形成 “ 江鲜粤做 ” 的特色。 一道古酒茅台浸蟹，让茅台酒的陈酿酱香与罗曼湖 12 年苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌中的香 草气息和混合果香相遇，辅之以蟹肉清甜，在口中曼妙生香，如痴如醉。 鱼籽鳗鱼烧手工豆腐则与罗曼湖苏格兰单一谷物威士忌配搭，其中鳗鱼酥而不烂，鱼 子酱咬开唇齿生香，豆腐清新香甜，再邂逅威士忌中的菠萝香气和清爽的尾韵，清爽解腻， 吃完心生荡漾，幸福感大抵如此。 四站珍馐晚宴结束，罗曼湖来融贯中西的 “ 源 ” 味之旅不止于此。通过对传统的寻觅、 挖掘、传承与再造，令历经时光的饮食脉络能够永续传承，才是罗曼湖在创新突破之路上永 不止步的目标所在。

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PRESENTED BY MAISON MUMM

酒膳和唱

pairings that sing Maison Mumm’s exclusive RSRV Grand Cru Champagnes beautifully harmonize with a culinary philosophy of simple elegance.

“ 顶级品质的农产，新鲜当令的食材，清 晰 明 确 的 风 味， 正 是 Arcane 闪 耀 光 芒 的原因。” 位于香港中环的时尚欧陆餐 厅 Arcane 享 誉 盛 名， 行 政 主 厨 Shane

Osborn 这样阐述他的料理方式 ：“ 我们 的菜式平易近人、层次繁复，却是以极 简手法烹调而成。”

Shane 于 2016 年接受访问时，与我 们分享了这番话。如今经过四个事业有成 的年头，并连续三度摘下米其林一星后， 这番说话依旧所言不虚。Arcane 的驻店 主厨 Michael Smith 也应和 Shane 秉持的 态度 ：“Shane 和我一些对于餐厅的理念 与料理极为重要的核心信念，都是一致 的。” 两位厨师都强调合作，他们与团队 成员会透过激发彼此 的想法，发想新菜式。

Michael 说 ：“ 我 们 都 充满热忱，而且严格 把关所用农产品的品 质，让食材自然展露 自己的风格特色。”

Steamed kinmedai with dashi-braised Swiss chard, fresh almond, girolles, and butter whey, paired with Maison Mumm 2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs

正 是 Arcane 的

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优雅精炼，让它成为

清蒸金目鲷搭配高汤炖煮的

“THE QUALIT Y OF THE PRODUCE, the seasonality of the ingredients,

Maison Mumm RSRV

瑞士甜菜、生杏仁、黄菌菇、

the clarity of the flavors are the things that shine through at Arcane,” says Executive Chef Shane Osborn of his approach to cuisine at the acclaimed modern European restaurant in Central, Hong Kong. “We serve accessible, sophisticated food that is cooked simply.”

Osborn’s words, first shared with Tasting Kitchen in a 2016 interview, continue to ring true after four successful years and three consecutive ratings of one Michelin star. Arcane’s resident head chef, Michael Smith, echoes Osborn’s attitude: “Shane and I share some pretty core beliefs regarding our philosophy and what we serve in the restaurant.” Both chefs emphasize the collaborative way in which they and the rest of the team bounce ideas off one another in developing new dishes. “We’re very passionate,” says Smith, “about the quality of the produce we use here and about championing those ingredients and letting them speak for themselves.”

Such a refined approach makes Arcane the perfect partner to highlight both the broad diversity of Maison Mumm’s RSRV range of 100 percent Grand Cru Champagnes and the exceptional distinctiveness of each of the four that make up the collection currently available in Hong

系 列 100% 特 级 庄 园

TK | road of stories

香槟的最佳拍档，不 仅表现出这系列香槟

黄油乳清，搭配 Maison Mumm 2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs。

的变化多端，还能分 别突显目前香港推出的四款香槟，每一 款皆与众不同，包括口感清新、轻盈又 细 腻 的 Maison Mumm 2012 RSRV Blanc

de Blancs、风味丰富却平衡得恰到好处 的 Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvée 4.5、香气 芬 芳 的 Maison Mumm 2009 RSRV Blanc de Noirs 与 酒 体 饱 满 而 繁 复 的 Maison

Mumm 2006 RSRV Cuvée Lalou。 侍 酒 师 Didier Yang 表 示，Arcane 上乘食材的精挑细选，以及一丝不苟的 处理手法，让食材独一无二的原汁原味 表露无遗。他说 ：“ 我们的成品都传递出 类似的忠于原味的雅致。”

SAMANTHA SIN (2)

与酒庄的共通点，就是两者都极为重视

A reminder from Maison Mumm: Please drink responsibly.

S E A R E D H O K K A I D O S C A L LO P S W I T H C A U L I F LOW E R A N D B O N I TO C R E A M , M A C A D A M I A, P O M E LO , A N D M A P L E D R E SS I N G , PA I R E D WITH MAISON MUMM RSRV C U V É E 4 .5 煎封北海道干贝搭配花椰菜、 柴鱼酱、夏威夷果、柚肉、 枫糖酱，搭配 MAISON

M U M M R S R V C U V É E 4.5

“This dish is quite complex, texture-wise,” says Yang.

“The scallop, raw on one side and charred on the other, is complemented by the crunchy raw cauliflower and the hint of powdery, shaved macadamia. Cuvée 4.5 has a beautiful, creamy texture, a mouth-watering acidity, and a well-balanced body that can carry through. The umami and salinity from the bonito cream and scallops, along with the touch of smokiness from the charred scallop, pair well with the unripe stone fruit notes and touch of roasted kernel that the Cuvée 4.5 offers.”

Didier 介绍 ：“ 这道料理的口感相当繁复。干 贝一面是生的，另一面煎至焦黑，搭配咬起来清 脆的生花椰菜及一点粉粉的夏威夷果薄片。Cuvée 4.5 有一种美妙、奶油般的滑顺口感、引人垂涎的酸度，以及 能将这些风味充分平衡的酒体。柴鱼酱和干贝的鲜味与盐度， 加上煎焦干贝的一股烟熏味，与 Cuvée 4.5 未成熟的有核水果味 与烘烤果核的香气，实在是绝配。”

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SAMANTHA SIN (2)

PRESENTED BY MAISON MUMM

Kong. It comprises the fresh and light delicacy of Maison Mumm 2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs, the balanced harmony and versatility of Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvée 4.5, the aromatic elegance of Maison Mumm 2009 RSRV Blanc de Noirs, and the fullbodied complexity of Maison Mumm 2006 RSRV Cuvée Lalou.

Arcane’s sommelier, Didier Yang, draws a parallel between the way that both the restaurant and the Maison place utmost importance on the meticulous selection of premium ingredients and on careful intervention and handling that allow the unique, original qualities of those ingredients to reveal themselves. “And so,” he says, “our final products convey a similar true-to-origin elegance.”

Yang finds a natural affinity between Chef Smith’s steamed kinmedai and 2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs. In his opinion, the pairing offers a fine example of Arcane’s and Maison Mumm’s mirrored culinary and winemaking philosophies. “The steamed kinmedai is a dish of delicate flavors, very much about the produce,” says Smith, whose steaming method showcases the tenderness of the Japanese golden eye snapper. The garnishes and condiments are modestly prepared for maximum retention of natural tastes and textures. Smith is able to bring to the dish a touch of minerality from the Swiss chard, a note of earthiness and a fruity, peppery kick from the Provençal girolles, a bit of crunch from the raw Spanish almonds, and a hint of yeastiness from the butter whey sauce.

In a similar way, 2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs is a remarkable embodiment of Maison Mumm’s house style, which draws out and accentuates multiple facets of the Chardonnay grapes harvested from the chalky soil of its historic Grand Cru plots.

Acquired in 1882, they lie in the village of Cramant on the highly prized eastern-facing slope of Côtes des Blancs. Within the bottle, a low pressure that measures under 5.0 bar, compared to the typical pressure of 6.0 bar for most Champagnes, allows the wine to better express its natural minerality, and the low dosage acts as a light seasoning that enables the terroir to manifest itself more distinctly.

“This Champagne is an expression of true elegance from 100 percent Chardonnay, a grape that shows the greatest purity and linearity,” says Yang.

“Its stone-like minerality, faint floral notes, and clean citrus finish sing perfectly with the fish.”

Michael Smith and Didier Yang

Didier 认 为， 主 厨 Michael 的 清 蒸 金 目 鲷 与 2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs 有 一 种 天 然 的 契 合 力， 这 两 者 搭 配， 可 谓 Arcane 料 理 哲 学 与 Maison Mumm 酿酒哲学互相呼应的绝佳典范。Michael 说 ：“ 清蒸金目 鲷是一道口味细致的佳肴，与食材本身息息相关。” 在他的巧手下，清 蒸技法完美展现日本金目鲷肉质的软嫩，适量的装点与调味绝不喧宾夺 主，最大程度保留食材的天然风味与口感。此外，瑞士甜菜为这道料理 注入一抹矿物味，普罗旺斯黄菌菇带来一丝泥土香、果香与胡椒味，生 西班牙杏仁则增添酥脆口感，最后还有黄油乳清酱的酵母香气。

2012 RSRV Blanc de Blancs 亦体现了 Maison Mumm 的酒庄风格。 历史悠久的特级葡萄园于 1882 年归 Maison Mumm 所有，位于克拉芒 村面朝东方的白山坡上，由白垩土滋养出特色多元的霞多丽葡萄，其风 味经淬炼与强化，在这款香槟里充分显现。瓶内压力在 5 巴以下，低于 因此酒体更能散发天然的矿石味， 而且添糖程度低， 多数香槟瓶内的 6 巴， 仅有些许调味作用，让产地风土特色更显鲜明。

Didier 说 ：“ 霞多丽是一种呈现出极致纯度与线性的葡萄，这款香 槟完整演绎了它的真实优雅。如石头般的矿物味、幽微的花香、明显的 柑橘味余韵，与金目鲷一唱一和，唱和出天籁般的和谐美声。” road of stories

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PRESENTED BY MAISON MUMM

“槟”至如归

bohemian harmony Maison Mumm RSRV Champagnes are right at home with the deliciously unconventional cuisine of COBO HOUSE. “WE’RE LIKE A KNIFE AND SPOON,” says

Devon Hou, one of a duo of executive head chefs at COBO HOUSE. She refers to the collaborative way that she and her partner, Ray Choi, work together on every tasting menu in The Knife & Spoon series at the restaurant, which recently “ 我们就像餐刀与汤匙。”COBO HOUSE 餐厅两位 行政主厨之一的 Devon Hou，这样形容自己与工 reopened in its new location at K11 MUSEA. 作伙伴 Ray Choi 研发 “ 餐刀与汤匙 ” 品尝菜单的 “We call our menus ‘chapters’ because they 合作默契。COBO HOUSE 近期迁至 K11 MUSEA，以 follow one after the other and always have a cen崭新气象再度开张。 tral theme or ingredient,” she adds. The focus of 她补充道 ：“ 我们将菜单称为 ‘ 章节 ’，因为 the first chapter, The Origin of Life, for instance, 我们的菜单像是一章章的故事，总有一个主题或食 was on the humble egg, but presented in anything材贯穿全部章节。” 第一章 “ 生命之源（The Origin but-humble dishes like their quirky take on a Hong of Life）” 的主轴是看似毫不起眼的蛋，却以抢眼 Kong signature, thousand-year-old egg with crab. 的料理来呈现，例如香港招牌菜式皮蛋配 Each menu takes weeks of plan蟹肉，经过两位主厨以创新思维改造，染 ning, energized by the inspired teamwork BY 上了一抹充满玩味的调性。 of Hou and Choi. “I have the crazy ideas, LUCY JENKINS 每套菜单均经过 Devon 与 Ray 两位 but Ray is the executor,” says Hou. “We • 主厨长达数周的策划，注入了彼此激荡出 constantly test and practice and always PHOTOGRAPHY BY 的灵感火花。Devon 说 ：“ 我专门提出疯 adjust the balance of ingredients until INGA BECKMANN 狂的主意，但令它们成真的人是 Ray。我 the dish is fine-tuned perfectly.” 们不断实验、练习，随时调整食材的平衡， The second chapter, available since 直到每道菜都毫无瑕疵为止。” November 19, is Spices & Aroma. Like all the pair第二章 “ 香料世界（ Spices & Aroma）” 于 11 ing menus, it will last for six weeks and promises to 月 19 日问世，如同之前的菜单，第二章亦仅供应 be as unconventional as the venue, whose name COBO stands for “community of bohemians.” Its contents will remain a secret up to the last minute, when guests choose a six or eight course variation and then scan the QR code on the dice in the restaurant to reveal their selection in all its glory.

Spices & Aroma features two dishes specially designed to pair with Maison Mumm’s RSRV range of 100 percent Grand Cru Champagnes, launched in Hong Kong via the RSRV Club, which offers exclusive dining experiences to its members through selected restaurants of renown. The Champagnes include the emblematic Blanc de Noirs 2009 and Blanc de Blancs 2012, the elegant Cuvee 4.5, and the Lalou 2006.

The first dish features a spring onion flatbread

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六周，保证跟餐厅本身一样令人意想不到（COBO 意指 “ 波希米亚人社区 ”） 。至于菜单内容则会保 密至最后一刻，宾客可选择六道或八道菜的套餐， 然后扫描餐厅骰子上的 QR 码，秘密才会揭晓。

“ 香料世界 ” 主打两道专为搭配 RSRV 俱乐部 于香港推出的 Maison Mumm RSRV 系列 100% 特 级庄园香槟而特制的料理，会员能够在多间香港知 名餐厅，享受尊贵餐饮体验和四款限定香槟 ：具 标志性的 Blanc de Noirs 2009 和 Blanc de Blancs 2012，以及优雅细腻的 Cuvée 4.5 和 Lalou 2006。 第一道菜式为包着手撕鸡、烟熏鳕鱼卵泡沫 与冬松露的葱味刈包。Devon 介绍 ：“ 这道料理充 满本地特色，但我们把香港葱油饼换成了刈包。” 这 道 佳 肴 的 佐 餐 酒 为 Maison Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009， 完 全 由 Maison Mumm 的

HOMEMADE SCALLION GUA BAO WITH S H R E D D E D C H I C K E N , S M O K E D CO D R O E EMULSION, WINTER TRUFFLE, AND SMOKED PA P R I K A 自制葱味刈包 : 手撕鸡 , 烟熏鳕鱼卵泡沫 , 冬松露 , 烟熏红椒粉

This modern take on the traditional Hong Kong scallion pancake contains smoked cod roe emulsion and shredded chicken infused with Hainan chicken aromas and a touch of winter truffle. Its delicate balance of flavors pairs with the beautifully structured Maison Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009. 传统港式葱油饼的现代版，采用烟熏鳕鱼卵泡沫与手撕鸡，并 注入海南鸡的香气与一抹冬松露，各种风味的巧妙平衡与酒体 结构均恰到好处的 Maison Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009 完 美配合。

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From left to right: Wilson Wong, Ray Choi, Devon Hou, Rex Leung

gua bao with shredded chicken, smoked cod roe emulsion, and winter truffle.

“It’s still very much a local concept,” says Choi. “But we’ve taken the traditional Hong Kong spring onion pancake and turned it into a flatbread.”

Maison Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009 is the chosen accompaniment, which COBO HOUSE sommelier Rex Leung says is “ideally paired and balanced with heavier dishes, including white meat and game birds, because it lends aromatic richness and structure.” This select wine is made entirely from pinot noir grapes, Maison Mumm’s signature variety, harvested from a 100 percent Grand Cru plot in the village of Verzenay in Montagne de Reims.

The second dish is New Zealand lamb rump brined in more than ten spices, slow-cooked at the very low temperature of 60.5°C, pan-fried with a sauce of mixed herbs, including mint, rosemary and thyme – “very traditional with lamb!” notes Hou – and served with grilled pineapple, fresh cucumber, and Japanese-style baby aubergine with miso.

The lamb is paired with Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou 2006, which Leung describes as “a masterful blend from seven of the twelve finest, oldest, and most prestigious plots in the vineyard.” Lalou 2006 graced the cellars for ten years and, with a light dosage of six grams per liter, reveals complex and elegant aromas of candied lemon with notes of vanilla and baked bread. “It pairs perfectly with heavier flavors,” adds sommelier Wilson Wong.

The collaboration with Maison Mumm RSRV is a perfect fit, says Choi: “The partnership came naturally, since we cherish the same sort of values. COBO HOUSE focuses on providing innovative and original dining experiences, and Maison Mumm RSRV promotes quality, exclusivity, and uniqueness.”

招牌品种──采自兰斯山脉韦尔泽奈村 庄 100% 特 级 园 的 黑 皮 诺 葡 萄 酿 制 而 成。 COBO HOUSE 的 侍 酒 师 Rex Leung 说， 这 款酒 “ 香气饱满，结构精实，最适合平衡白 肉和野味一类风味较厚重的料理 ”。 第二道菜式是经十种以上的香料盐水 腌渍的纽西兰羊髀肉，以摄氏 60.5 度慢煮 后，再以薄荷、迷迭香、百里香等多种香草 混合调制而成的酱汁油煎，是 Devon 口中 的 “ 极度传统的羊排料理手法 ”。最后再佐 以烤凤梨、新鲜黄瓜及和式味噌小茄子。 羊排的佐餐酒是 Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou 2006，Rex 形容它是 “ 一款混 合了产自 Maison Mumm 葡萄园里十二块 最顶级、最悠久、最知名园地中的其中七 块的葡萄的上乘之作 ”。这款酒在酒窖里陈 放了十年，每公升仅添加六公克糖，散发 出的柠檬香气既直率，又繁复优雅，并夹 杂着香草与烤面包的芳香。侍酒师 Wilson

Wong 总结：“ 它与口味较重的料理是绝配。” Devon 表 示 与 Maison Mumm RSRV 携手合作可说是一拍即合。 “ 我们都重视相 同的价值，合作起来十分自然顺畅。COBO HOUSE 负 责 提 供 新 颖、 原 创 的 用 餐 体 验，

Maison Mumm RSRV 则提升了品质、尊荣 与独一无二的享受。”

A reminder from Maison Mumm: Please drink responsibly.

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PRESENTED BY MAISON MUMM

10+ S P I C E B R I N E L A M B R U M P 60.5° C ( S H O R T R I B ), G R I L L E D PINEAPPLE, CUCUMBER MIXED H E R B S S A U C E , B A BY A U B E R G I N E WITH MISO 以 十 种 以 上 香 料 、摄 氏 60. 5 度 慢 煮 盐 水 渍 羊 髀 肉 , 烤凤梨 , 黄瓜香草酱 , 味噌小茄子 Tender New Zealand lamb rump is brined in spices, slow-cooked to bring out its delicate flavors, and pan-fried. Served with a mixed herb sauce, Japanese-style baby aubergine, zesty grilled pineapple, and fresh cucumber, the dish is paired with the Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou 2006. 软嫩的纽西兰羊髀肉先以香料盐水腌渍，慢煮出细致风味后再油煎， 佐综合香草酱、和式小茄子、烤凤梨与新鲜黄瓜，最后搭配 Maison

Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou 2006。

WELLNESS & RETREAT

ESCAPE TO WELLNESS Some of China’s most luxurious resorts and retreats are welcoming locals who are looking for relaxing wellness getaways that don’t take them far from home. Two especially choice examples are Amandayan resort in Lijang and Shanga Retreat in Suzhou, both of which offer lavish accommodations and a wide array of treatments and therapies designed to renew, restore, and rejuvenate.

§ 您是否正探寻着不用离家太远，就可松弛身心、逃离喧嚣的僻

静之所？丽江大研安缦和位于苏州的音昱水中天为您准备了一趟静修之 旅。这两家中国境内顶级尊贵的度假胜地结合周边风景，提供奢 华的住宿体验与多种舒缓身心的疗程，让您重振精神、 恢复光彩、焕活新生。

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大研安缦

AMANDAYAN, LIJIANG

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well-being works to prevent illness by addressing each individual’s patterns of disharmony and imbalance.

Signature treatments include the flowing Bamboo Massage in which heated bamboo is used as an extension of the therapist’s hands. An antiinflammatory herbal compress massage uses prai root, ginger, turmeric, and lemongrass to boost circulation and soothe muscles.

Guided by an experienced master, the ancient wellness art of tai chi is practiced on a wooden deck surrounded by trees. Graceful movements focus the mind, and the holding of postures increases stamina.

Alone or as a couple, guests can soak stress away in a circular wooden tub with a personalized infusion of flower petals, tea leaves, and other botanicals. Following a steam bath, seasonally guided treatments provide a deep sense of peace.

Dining becomes an adventure at Amandayan’s three restaurants, with healthful cuisine that focuses on organic meats, locally grown seasonal vegetables, and wild mushrooms. Savor a traditional Nakhi hotpot at Man Yi Xuan or a classic tea tasting at the Tea House, and, in season, hunt for prized matsutake mushrooms in the rain-scented forests of Heqing.

R E S E R VAT I O N S O R I N F O R M AT I O N 预 订 或查 询

+86 888 533 9999­ amandayan@­ aman.com

COURTESY OF AMANFAYUN (4 + PRECEDING PAGE )

TUCKED INTO THE NORTHWESTERN CORNER

of Yunnan – known as the “Land of Eternal Spring” for its mild climate – is the serene retreat of Amandayan. With panoramic views of Snow Dragon Jade Mountain from atop Lion Hill, it overlooks the picturesque lanes, canals, and bridges of Lijiang’s UNESCO-protected Old Town.

The resort’s thirty-five spacious suites, each opening onto a courtyard or terrace, come with a full complement of modern amenities. They are housed in elegant wooden structures inspired by the region’s indigenous Nakhi architecture and decorated with materials from the local area. Contemporary yet unmistakably Chinese in design, every suite provides complete privacy in magnificent natural surroundings.

The Aman Spa features a twenty-meter heated outdoor pool; four treatment rooms with steam showers, wooden bathtubs, and relaxation areas; two hydrotherapy suites for scrubs, baths, and wraps; a tranquil reception and lounge area; and a Pilates studio and fully equipped gym.

The spa’s therapies, from massages and exfoliations to cupping, are informed by traditional Chinese medicine, whose holistic approach to

WELLNESS & RETREAT

云南西北方气候宜人，享有 “ 四季如春 ” 之美名，大研安缦度假村便座落于此清幽秘 境。从狮子山顶远眺，巍峨的玉龙雪山一览无遗，俯瞰着联合国教科文组织保护的丽 江古城，蹊径、河渠、桥梁，满目皆是诗情画意。 度假村设有 35 间宽敞套房，均连接庭院或露台，现代设备一应俱全。套房位于 雅致的木造建筑内，采用当地传统纳西建筑的经典元素，装饰材料亦全从当地取材， 时尚感十足，却又全然是中国古典设计，与周遭自然美景水乳交融，打造出完美无瑕 的隐居圣地。 安缦水疗中心有一个 20 米室外恒温泳池，四间设有蒸汽淋浴房、木质浴桶、休 息室的护理室，两间提供磨砂、浸浴与裹肤疗法的水疗套房，还有一处静谧接待与休 息区，另有普拉提馆和应有尽有的健身房。 水疗中心的疗程从指压、磨砂到拔罐，以传统中医理念为本，针对人体平衡失 调的问题，采取全方位的身心关照法，有效预防疾病。 以加热过的竹棒代替理疗师双手的暖竹按摩是这里的招牌疗程之一，还有使用 泰国姜、生姜、姜黄、柠檬草的抗发炎草药舒压按摩，能加强血液循环、放松肌肉。 接着追随一位经验老道的大师，在郁葱树林间的木制露台上，练习传统养生艺 术──太极艺术，让优雅的打拳动作直击心灵深处，稳住每一种姿势，增进自己的意 志力。无论是一个人或携伴前来，只消徜徉在圆形木质浴桶中，按自己喜好注入花瓣、 茶叶等草本混合植物，压力便能被全然释放。再来趟蒸气浴，按季节享受不同疗程， 赐予身心最深刻的平静祥和。 大研安缦有三家餐厅，绝对能满足饕客们的味蕾。除了采用有机肉类、当地栽 种的时令蔬菜与野生菌菇制作的养生料理，也可以品尝缦逸轩的传统纳西火锅，或到 茶室一品经典好茶。若季节刚好，还可走进鹤庆县雨后芬芳的森林里，采摘价值连城 的野生松茸呢！

• LIJIANG

WELLNESS & RETREAT

• SUZHOU

I N T H E C U LT U RAL LY R I C H C I T Y O F S U Z H O U, just sixty miles west of Shanghai, is beautiful SANGHA Retreat. A state-of-the-art, fully immersive health and wellness sanctuary, SANGHA combines the vast and ancient wisdom of the East with the latest technological advances of Western science. Holistic and bespoke solutions to personal well-being look beyond the superficial to the root causes through a comprehensive review of body, mind, and spirit.

SANGHA ’s spacious and modern accommodations are perfectly conducive to reflection, relaxation, and rejuvenation, elegantly balancing luxurious comfort with calming minimalism. The sixty-eight Lakeview Suites, as well as the expansive Lakeview Penthouse Suite, blend intuitive design with stunning natural vistas and feature king beds, 8 By OCTAVE amenities, and private balconies overlooking scenic Yangcheng Lake.

The forty-seven-acre SANGHA Retreat, part of the OCTAVE Institute,

introduces a fresh approach to well-being designed to help guests find clarity, harmony, and new levels of consciousness and freedom through an individualized program of nutritionally balanced meals, healing treatments, and physical activities.

At the core of its offerings are three-to-six-night well-being programs designed to produce lasting transformation. Targeted treatment plans support guests in their journey to optimal health and a life more mindfully lived. An extensive, noninvasive wellness assessment informs the path that each guest takes.

SANGHA Retreat’s Living Habits program offers activities and practices to help guests achieve a new level of well-being. With a schedule that changes daily, guests choose from nine sessions and participate in meditation and sound healing, ancient tai chi movements, and lectures on such topics as TCM seasonal eating.

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在上海以西仅六十英里的距离，美轮美奂的音 昱水中天在文化底蕴深厚的苏州悄然而立。这 座符合当代理念、让身心全然浸润的养生圣殿， 融贯博大精深的东方智慧与先进发达的西方科 学，为每一位宾客提供量身定制的全方位养生 方案，详尽地检视身心灵，解决根本问题，让 人从内而外焕然一新。 音昱水中天的住宿环境宽敞而时尚，适于 省思、放松、充电再出发。在这里，奢华舒适 与平静简约达到了优雅平衡。68 间湖景套房与 别墅，结合灵动的设计与令人叹为观止的天然 美景、特大双人床、八种音昱设施与坐拥阳澄 湖的私人阳台。 占地 47 英亩的水中天度假村隶属音昱旗 下，以前所未有的养生法为每个人量身订制营 养均衡的膳食、自愈修复疗法与体能活动，协 助宾客找回澄澈、和谐、觉察与自由的崭新境界。 其中三至六晚的养生课程会首先为每位宾 客进行详尽的健康评估，再拟定目标疗程，引 领宾客逐步迈上理想的身心健康之旅，学习仔 细关照自己的生活，进而让身心的转变亘久绵 长。 音昱水中天的生活习惯计画提供多种活动 与练习，可将身心健康提升到更高境界。此计 画课程表日日不同，宾客可从九种免费课程中， 一面体验冥想与音疗，练习古老的太极拳法， 一面眺望阳澄湖，或参与传统中药时令饮食等 主题课程，充实自我。

音昱水中天

SANGHA RE TREAT R E S E R VAT I O N S O R I N F O R M AT I O N 预订或查询

reservations@sangharetreat.com sangharetreat.com

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PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL

寒冷国度的美味馈赠

king of crabs Norway’s most delicious gift from the sea reigns supreme with top chefs around the world.

IN CHINA, fall is crab season, with the lake crab finding its way onto menus across the country. Far away in Norway’s icy, crystalclear waters, the famous red king crab is also at supreme season in autumn. While the cold, clear waters and extreme climate may present a challenge to the people living nearby, they provide ideal conditions for the bounty of fish and shellfish that thrive in their depths.

Today, Norway is the world’s second-largest exporter of seafood, with an astonishing thirty-seven million servings of Norwegian seafood consumed daily across the globe. Among the country’s many exports, it is the Norwegian red king crab – “the king of crabs” – that has captured the admiration of the world’s top chefs and gourmands, thanks to its large size, firm texture, and delectably sweet taste.

Norwegian red king crab dwells in Norway’s cold, clear waters – the perfect environment for red king crab to thrive, where it can be caught all year round. The climate here gives it a sweet clear taste and great texture. Norwegians are justly proud of their country’s sustainable fishing practices and stringent quality controls. Within Norway’s most famous king crab producing zone – an area stretching along Finnmark’s east coast up to Nordkapp – red king crab quotas are strictly enforced. These mandatory regulations, coupled with the high cost of fishing and transport, make the Norwegian red king crab one of the most exclusive crustaceans in the world – with a price tag to match.

With its legs fully extended, the Norwegian red king crab can measure up to two meters in diameter, with plump, juicy legs perfect for eating. The cold deep waters that these crabs prefer give them a high glycine content and a resulting sweet flavor.

Exported to all parts of the globe, the red king crab has given rise to a host of new culinary inspirations and taste expressions

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每逢秋季，当湖蟹席卷国人的餐桌之时，在数千公里外 的挪威深海，红帝王蟹也正处于极佳的品味期。挪威位 于欧洲北部，被冰冷的海水包围。尽管地理位置为在此 生活的人带来不便，但是这种环境条件却非常适合鱼类 和虾蟹贝类海产生长。挪威现已成为全球第二大海产品 出口国，全世界每天消耗的挪威海产品相当于 3700 万份 餐食。被誉为 “ 海蟹之王 ” 的挪威红帝王蟹，更因其庞 大体型、紧致肉质及甘美口感，受全球厨师和美食家的 青睐。 挪威红帝王蟹在挪威寒冷清澈的海域成长，且一年 四季皆可捕获。挪威的气候给它们带来清甜纯净的口感 以及绝佳的质地。同样最令挪威人骄傲的，还有他们的 可持续捕捞法和高品质管控。在挪威著名的帝王蟹产地 — 芬马克东海岸到挪威北角，捕捞红帝王蟹的配额受到严 格管制。这些严苛的法规，加之高昂的捕捞及运输成本， 保证了挪威红帝王蟹顶级的品质，也令它身价倍增。

NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL (3)

in the hands of acclaimed Michelin-star chefs who specialize in a wide variety of cuisines.

At two-Michelin-star Noma in Copenhagen, for example, head chef serves grilled crab legs with black truffles, the crab so fresh that diners have been known to lick the shells clean. Ing uses the remaining meat in a hearty thick soup with seagrass for a subtle, ocean-fresh finish.

Recently in Shanghai, the Norwegian Seafood Council hosted a tasting event featuring a splendid array of Norwegian shellfish. The occasion attracted leading local chefs from five-star hotels and fine-dining restaurants, media friends, and trade partners. Michelin-star chef Alan Yu designed the event’s special tasting menu, highlighting several Norwegian shellfish products.

He showed off Norwegian red king crab’s unparalleled taste and texture by combining Western techniques and Asian flavors in two creative new dishes: Norwegian Red King Crab Gratin with Caviar and Fresh Herbs and Norwegian Red King Crab Tartar with Ginger and Dashi Gelee.

Chef Yu’s exceptional dishes perfectly demonstrated why Norwegian red king crab, harvested with meticulous care and craftsmanship before being transported live from fjord to kitchen, is increasingly the choice of the world’s most celebrated chefs and finedining restaurants.

↑ Norway’s cold, clear waters 寒冷清澈的 挪威海域 ← Norwegian red king crab quotas are strictly enforced 捕捞红帝王蟹的 配额受严格管制 ↗ Plump, juicy meat is perfect for eating ­ 红帝王蟹蟹 肉鲜美无比

挪威红帝王蟹完全展开后接近 2 米，肥美腿肉适宜 大口咀嚼 ；冰冷的生长环境赋予它很高的甘氨酸含量， 咬开后口齿生甘。 红帝王蟹在全球米其林星级餐厅大厨手中与各国 美食碰撞，绽放出美味灵感。哥本哈根的米其林二星餐 厅 Noma 的大厨会用烤蟹腿搭配黑松露，鲜到让人把蟹 壳也舔得干干净净，剩下的蟹肉则会被佐以海草做成浓 汤。最近于上海举行的挪威海产局挪威虾蟹贝类海产品 鉴会上，米其林星厨余溟烨也使用挪威红帝王蟹呈现了

“ 沙巴雍焗挪威红帝王蟹鱼子酱 ” 及 “ 挪威红帝王蟹塔 塔配姜汁日式高汤啫喱酱 ” 两道创意料理，融合西式技 法和东方风味，展示出蟹肉无与伦比的口感和质地。挪 威红帝王蟹独到的口感和鲜甜，为星级厨师提供上等 食材信心的同时，更为消费者带来一场味蕾盛宴。期 待将来它能和本土风味及技法融为一体，为高端餐桌 引入崭新风味。 road of stories

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LUXURY LIVING

蓝洋午后

tea at sea A yacht cruise from Simpson Marine and tea from The Peninsula Hong Kong make for a very elegant afternoon.

ON A PERFEC T WINTER’S DAY, the sun glimmers off azure waters as the sleek Fairline Squadron 50 from Simpson Marine glides almost silently toward South Bay, Hong Kong’s “Riviera of the Orient.” Famed for such fans from bygone days as Marlon Brando and Ernest Hemingway, the surroundings seem timeless, a throwback to a gentler era where luxury met leisure at every turn.

The fifty-foot yacht from the iconic British brand BY Fairline couldn’t be a more fitting setting for a gustaCHRIS DWYER tory institution that has also stood the test of time, • namely, afternoon tea, especially when that tea is PHOTOGRAPHY BY served by expert staff from The Peninsula Hong Kong.

SAMANTHA SIN “The Peninsula,” says Ewa Stachurska, Simpson Marine’s group marketing manager, “is a legendary property with bespoke guest services, including their famous RollsRoyce and helicopter experiences. So we’re delighted to be their exclusive yacht charter partner offering tailor-made options for guests who expect the very best. Our company started as a charter business in 1984 and today offers Asia’s largest and most

暖阳在和煦的冬日中照映大海，阳光在蔚蓝的 水面上熠熠生辉，由辛普森游艇隆重推出的

“ 菲尔兰豪华飞桥 50 呎游艇 ” 船身雅致，在 海面上几近无声地滑行，驶向被誉为 “ 东方蔚 蓝海岸 ” 的香港南湾，马龙白兰度与厄尼斯特 海明威都曾游访此地，这处远近驰名的角落仿 佛不受时间羁绊，带着人们穿梭回奢华悠闲的 高雅年代。 下午茶这种历久弥新的饮食文化，在这 艘身长 50 呎的经典英国品牌菲尔兰游艇上找 到了最适宜的栖身之所，且这席下午茶由香港 半岛酒店的专业团队精心烹制奉上，与菲尔兰 游艇的搭配更显天造地设。 road of stories

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At £900,000 delivered to Hong Kong with all the options, the yacht is a testament to British craftsmanship at its finest, with woodwork finished in eight flawless coats of varnish.

这艘游艇于英国手工建造后再运至香港，承袭了英国最顶尖的手工艺精神， 手工木制船身覆上八层亮光漆，以90万英镑起价，并提供各种配备。 diversified fleet of yachts for charter, with more than fifty different models.”

The recently launched partnership with The Peninsula also includes guest yacht charters and event collaborations in addition to bespoke onboard catering. Simpson Marine guests can enjoy cuisine from any of The Peninsula’s restaurants, including Gaddi’s and Spring Moon, but our afternoon at sea was all about the tea.

A three-tiered stand is filled with pictureperfect patisserie, dainty sandwiches and, of course, fruit scones served with clotted cream and jams. While tea is the obvious accompaniment, The Peninsula’s Deutz Champagne seems the perfect choice to match the decadent style of our postmeridian escape.

At a time when “seacations” are all the rage, Simpson also offers overnight charters, a rare option in Hong Kong, and the partnership also allows guests to enjoy a dinner cruise, overnight accommodations on the yacht, and another night’s stay at The Peninsula.

The Fairline Squadron 50, designed in Italy by Alberto Mancini, is engineered and handcrafted in England. At £900,000 delivered to Hong Kong with all the options, the yacht is a testament to British craftsmanship at its finest, with woodwork finished in eight flawless coats of varnish.

Decked in Union Jack cushions from British designer Timothy Oulton, it can reach thirty-two knots, and its range ensures that guests or owners can easily traverse Hong Kong’s 263 islands and marine parks, never more important than in a year when enforced lockdowns have meant that more people than ever have ventured throughout the city’s remarkable diversity of landscapes and locations. “Leisure trends have changed,” says Stachurska, “and people are starting to discover our country parks, staying overnight and going further. From Double Haven to Soko Islands, you can cover the entire territory of Hong Kong. Simpson Marine has enjoyed a very successful year, and this surge of interest in boating is set to continue.”

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辛 普 森 游 艇 的 行 销 经 理 Ewa Stachurska 说 ：“ 半岛酒店的客制服务 无可匹敌，提供多种豪华行程如劳斯莱 斯专车接送及直升机遨游，因此我们很 荣幸能成为他们专属的游艇租赁伙伴， 以客制的尊荣礼遇款待贵客。辛普森游 艇于 1984 年以游艇租赁起家，如今我 们有五十种以上的游艇，提供全亚洲规 模最大、选择最多样的游艇租赁服务。” 辛普森游艇与半岛酒店近期推出 的一连串合作为顾客提供游艇租赁、活 动合作与客制船上用餐体验的服务。辛 普森游艇的顾客在船上就能享用半岛 酒店任何一间餐厅的餐点，就连吉地士 和嘉麟楼也不例外，但下午茶才是我们 徜徉蓝洋的午后重头戏。 三层点心架上放了各式精致的甜 点、可口的三明治，当然也少不了佐以 凝脂奶油和果酱的水果司康。啜饮茗茶 纵然是常见的组合，然而以半岛酒店的 德茨香槟搭配我们慵懒的午后偷闲更 是再完美不过。 在这个海上度假极为风行的时代， 辛普森游艇也提供了香港少见的隔夜 租赁服务，透过这场合作活动，顾客还 能在享用游艇晚宴后宿于船上，隔日再 到半岛酒店入住一晚。 菲尔兰豪华飞桥 50 呎游艇由意大 利知名大师 Alberto Mancini 操刀设计， 于英国手工建造后再运至香港，承袭了 英国最顶尖的手工艺精神，手工木制船 身覆上完美无瑕的八层亮光漆，以 90 万英镑起价，并提供各种配备。 菲 尔 兰 豪 华 飞 桥 50 呎 游 艇 的 甲 板 上 铺 设 英 国 设 计 师 Timothy Oulton 打造的联合旗靠垫，最高速度可达 32 节，航程距离长，可从容载客往返香 港的 263 个岛屿和海岸公园，在疫情 强制封锁的这一年中成为重要的优势， 以游艇探索这座城市风光美景的人数 也在今年达到新高。Ewa 表示 ：“ 休闲 活动的型态有所转变，人们也开始经 由过夜的游艇行程重新认识郊野公园， 从印洲塘到索罟群岛，一览整个香港。 辛普森游艇今年的经营相当成功，我 们也预期这波兴起的游艇风潮将会持 续下去。”

LUXURY LIVING

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PRESENTED BY WANDA REIGN ON THE BUND

包容并蓄 厚积薄发

stronger than ever Overseeing an ultra-luxury hotel through difficult times brings remarkable results.

Nikolaos Chatzipetros 上任时尚的上海万达瑞华 G E N E RAL MANAG E R Nikolaos Chatzipetros had been managing 酒店总经理不到兩年，便迎来疫情带来的考验。 Shanghai’s stylish Wanda Reign on the Bund hotel for a little under two 在那个充满挑战的时期，Nikolaos 和团队 years when the coronavirus pandemic hit. 将重心放在建筑物和酒店设施（小至一个房间 During the incredibly challenging period that followed, Chatzipetros 插座）的维护上，同时专注于员工培训，并关 and his team decided to concentrate on upgrading the hotel’s facilities, 注价格政策，从而将服务和质量保 down to the electrical outlets in each room. At the same BY 持在最高标准。 time, they retooled staff training and took a hard look at YUKI FAN 在他们的努力下，上海万达瑞 pricing policies to ensure that service and quality would­ • 华酒店得以成为疫情后上海最早开 continue to exceed the industry’s highest standards.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 放的酒店，线下业务在之后的几个 In the wake of these efforts, Wanda Reign on the BEN HU 月里也获得了巨大的增长。 Bund became Shanghai’s first hotel to reopen, with offline 在进入酒店行业之前，Nikolaos business showing enormous growth in recent months. 差一点像他父亲一样，成为一名珠宝工匠。他 Chatzipetros’s two-decade career path took a sharp turn from 机缘巧合地通过朋友介绍，在英国担任服务生， his initial inclination to follow in his father’s footsteps and become 之后转职在伊丽莎白女王号邮轮上工作。后来 a jeweler. An opportunity arose to work in the service industry in 他前往瑞士深造，从此敲开了酒店管理的大门。 England, followed by a year on the Queen Elizabeth cruise ship. Later, 接下来的二十余年，他的从业经历遍布阿 a period of study in Switzerland became his ticket to the world of hotel 联酋、泰国、中国等多个国家。现在，上海已 management. 经成为他的 “ 第二故乡 ”。开放融合的文化氛 Among other countries, Chatzipetros’s work has brought him to the UAE, Thailand, and now China, where Shanghai has become his second home. Its culturally rich atmosphere and diverse street food offerings are just two of the reasons why Chatzipetros fell in love with the city.

“Shanghai is fast-paced, with everyone looking forward to the next thing,” he says. “It’s a tolerant place where opportunities are abundant.

For example, all the culinary ingredients you need are at your fingertips, which helps us continually maximize our business. There’s also fierce competition, prompting us to always be learning, innovating, and growing.”

Under such energetic leadership, Wanda Reign on the Bund is ranked number one on Tripadvisor’s list of recommended Shanghai hotels. And in a rating rarely seen for local luxury hotels, it has achieved a score of 4.9 on the popular Ctrip app.

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围和多样缤纷的街头小吃，让他爱上这座城市。 谈到在上海的生活，Nikolaos 这样说道 ：“ 上 海是一个快节奏的城市，每个人都在渴望着新 鲜事物的发生。这座城市的包容赋予了我们很 多机会 ──比如你能找到所有你想要的美食原 料，这使我们的业务不断扩展。这里的竞争激 烈，促使你不断地学习、创造新事物并快速成 长。” 在 Nikolaos 热 情、 专 注、 高 执 行 力 的 带 领下，上海万达瑞华酒店在 Tripadvisor 酒店推 荐中排名第一，更在携程 APP 上获得了 4.9 的 高分 ── 这对于本地奢华酒店而言，是非常难 能可贵的。

WINE MASTER

瑰丽人生

la vie en rose TK chats with Nicolas Deneux, Asia area wine director for the Rosewood Hotel Group, about some of his audacious new projects. § TK专访瑰丽酒店集团的葡萄酒亚洲区总监Nicolas Deneux，一探他大胆独到

的经营新方针。

How did you come to join the Rosewood brand?

I left Hong Kong four years ago to make wine in Burgundy under the guidance of François Carillon in Puligny-Montrachet, but I was already in conversation with Rosewood. I knew they had an ambitious wine project coming up, and so after three years in France, I returned to Hong Kong and started at Rosewood in October 2018.

Rosewood is known for its distinctive hotels where no two are the same. Does the same philosophy apply to the wine direction?

Rosewood is growing very fast, but when it came to the wine program, I really wanted to be as creative as possible. I’m lucky that I’ve been given free rein to do what I want, and so I’ve taken the “one outlet, one identity” approach and separated all outlets from each other.

你是怎么加入瑰丽酒店集团的？ 我在四年前离开香港，去了勃根地的普里尼蒙 哈榭，在 François Carillon 指导下学习制酒，但我 当时已经在跟瑰丽洽谈了。他们在策画一个别有雄 心的葡萄酒经营模式，所以我在法国待了三年后就 回到香港，于 2018 年 10 月加入了瑰丽酒店集团。

瑰丽有个名闻遐迩的特点，就是每一间酒店都 是独一无二的，这个经营哲学也适用于葡萄酒 吗？ 瑰丽集团的成长非常迅速，但我希望在葡萄酒 这方面能尽量别出心裁。我很幸运能有自由发挥的 空间，因此我的经营方式是 “ 一间酒店，一种风貌 ”， 将每个据点都打造得与众不同。

以香港瑰丽酒店为例，这经营方式如何运作？

How does that work in Rosewood Hong Kong, for example?

举以美国南部美式烟熏烧烤扒房 Henry 为例，

Take Henry, it’s a Southern American smokehouse and grill, and the design of the place is cozy and warm with lots of people dining by the bar, and so I didn’t want anything too formal. So I asked myself, how can we make this fun? On the wine list we have the “Big-Timers” section with three hundred magnums available in full magnum and half magnum, so you can order whichever magnum you like and just have half of it, with the other half released to other customers.

餐厅的设计温暖惬意，许多人都围在吧台前用餐，

How do customers respond?

顾客对此反应如何？

They love it, because we’re not stuck in our five-star-hotel bubble and can be original. We have our Indian restaurant Chaat, and I’ve chosen to pair Portuguese wines with the dishes, which plays on the historical trade routes. The menu teaches customers why the wines are on the list, because they’re not what people might expect, but there’s a good reason why they’re there.

So what do the next twelve months hold?

This year and for the foreseeable, due to the current situation, we’ll be consolidating rather than expanding, but when you go for something so daring, you’ve got to be strong in your concept and believe in it – whatever it is – and we’ve got a very solid base to build on.

所以我不想让气氛变得过于正式。因此我问自己， 要怎么做才能让这用餐经验充满乐趣？我们的酒单 上有一类别是 “Big-Timers”，有三百支双瓶装葡萄 酒，以一整瓶或半瓶的形式贩售，所以客人可以点 他们想要的双瓶酒，但只点半瓶，另外半瓶就开放 给其他客人。

顾客很喜欢，因为我们展现了原创性，而不是 仅固守五星级酒店的安全牌。比如在瑰丽的印度餐 厅 Chaat，我选择用葡萄牙的酒来搭配菜肴，呼应 了古代的贸易路线。这酒单能让顾客增广见闻，了 解为何酒单上会有这些酒，大家并不会预期在酒单 上看到它们，但我们的选酒都是其来有自的。

那接下来这一年会有什么发展？ 由于当前疫情造成的形势，我们在今年和最近 这几年并不打算扩大规模，而是偏向巩固既有市场。 但以我们这种大胆的模式经营时，无论其中概念为 何，都要坚信自己的想法，而我们的根基很稳固， 足以开展灿烂的前景。 road of stories

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PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

餐酒引力

affinity of flavors Pairing Austrian wines with Asian food opens a world of surprising possibilities.

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AUSTRIA, WITH ITS IDEAL cool-climate conditions for viticulture,

奥地利拥有极适合栽种葡萄的清爽气候，千变万

widely varied terroir, and focus on family-owned vineyards, has become a world-renowned producer of elegant wines with individual character.

Known for superior body and perfume, Austrian wines complement a range of international dishes, including, perhaps unexpectedly for some, Asian classics.

While Austrian winemakers cultivate international varietals like chardonnay, pinot blanc, and pinot noir with great success, it is their portfolio of domestic grape varieties that excites the instincts of adventurous sommeliers around the world.

Grüner veltliner, a white grape with balanced body, well-integrated acidity, power, and finesse, has achieved such international recognition that it now accounts for nearly one-third of Austria’s plantings. Lesser known but highly regarded whites like neuburger, rotgipfler, zierfandler, and roter veltliner and red varieties like zweigelt, blaufränkisch, sankt

化的风土条件，以及家族葡萄园盛行的特色，现

TK | road of stories

已成为享誉国际的葡萄酒出产国，专门酿制高雅 精致、与众不同的美酒。奥地利葡萄酒以酒体品 质优良、香气浓郁而闻名，搭配寰宇美食无一不 妥，连亚洲的经典菜式都出乎意料地与之相配。 奥地利的酿酒厂擅于栽培霞多丽、白皮诺、 黑皮诺等国际知名品种，然而真正吸引世界各地 葡萄品种。 绿维特利纳是一款酒体均衡的白酒，酸度、 力道、精美的口感配合得恰到好处，深受国际肯 定，现已占奥地利葡萄种植的近三分之一。其 他较小众但仍备受推崇的白葡萄品种，例如纽伯 格、红基夫娜、津芳德尔、红维特利纳，及红葡

© AWMB / ROBERT HERBST

侍酒师，并令他们跃跃欲试的，是奥地利本土的

↑ Steamed fish with spring onions and ginger 清蒸鮮鱼伴姜葱

→ Peking duck

© AWMB / BLICKWERK FOTOGRAFIE (2), © AWMB / MARCUS WIESNER (GRAPES)

北京烤鸭

laurent, and blauer wildbacher are now prized for their versatile and food-friendly qualities.

Steamed fish with spring onions and ginger, an Asian perennial favorite, requires a wine that respects the fish’s delicate flavor and texture but will not be eclipsed by the intense alium or fiery ginger. A medium-to-robust mineral-driven grüner veltliner is a white that offers ripe fruit aromas, sweetness, and peppery notes to suavely harmonize with the spicy flavors of the dish.

Finding apt accompaniments for Chinese roast meats can be challenging, and Peking duck is one of the trickier specialties to successfully pair. The sweet and tangy plum sauce often served with the flavorful flesh needs a responsive partner. Domestic red varietal zweigelt, with its light tannins, clear fruit, and low acidity, makes a magnificent match with the flavor profile of Peking duck, especially highlighting its crispy, umami-rich skin.

It’s best to think laterally when choosing an Austrian wine for pairing with Asian cuisine: medium-weight whites like weissburgunder or grauburgunder in reserve quality can make sound matches with rich meat dishes, balancing the fat with their perfectly balanced acidity.

And lightly chilled blaufränkisch, a red wine with distinctive acidity and dark-berry fruit, can make for an unusually appropriate pairing with white meats.

萄品种茨威格、蓝佛朗克、圣罗兰、蓝威德巴赫等， 如今均因其丰富多变且易于佐餐的特性而获奖无 数。 清蒸鮮鱼伴姜葱是一道向来为亚洲人喜爱的 料理，它需要一款能突显鱼肉细致风味与质地， 又不会被姜浓烈的辛辣味盖过的酒。绿维特利纳 白酒的酒体属中等偏饱满，矿物味强烈，拥有成 熟水果气息，同时散发出香甜与胡椒味，能够以 世故的姿态温和地与这道亚洲菜的辛辣和谐共存。 要为各种中式烤肉找到适当的佐餐酒并不容 易，北京烤鸭更是一大挑战。其中用来蘸可口鸭 肉、味道浓醇微甜的苏梅酱，需要一款能与之互 相激荡的酒来搭配。奥地利本土红葡萄品种茨威 格带有些微丹宁味，果香明显、酸度不高，与风 味鲜明的北京烤鸭可谓一拍即合，尤其能突出酥 脆鸭皮馥郁的鲜味。 在挑选搭配亚洲料理的奥地利酒款时，最好 能发挥创意，跳脱传统思维，例如珍藏级别、酒 体中等的白皮诺或灰皮诺白酒，搭配口感丰富的 肉类佳肴就十分得宜，完美平衡的酸度能够中和 肉的油脂 ；略冰镇过的蓝佛朗克红酒酸味独特， 还有深色莓果香气，搭配白肉就格外合适。 road of stories

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PRESENTED BY CIVP

“酒”近普罗旺斯

bouquet of rosés Fresh and fruity Vins de Provence bring the taste of the South of France to wine lovers everywhere.

T H E O N LY P L E A S U R E T H AT can add to the enjoyment of Provence’s magnificent landscape is a chilled glass of one of the region’s renowned rosés, wines that eloquently speak of the land of their origin. Naturally tangy and exquisitely refreshing, rosé Vins de Provence are recognized the world over for quality.

Provence lies between the Alps on the north, the Mediterranean on the south, Nice on the east, and Aix-en-Provence on the west. The unique combination of climate and terroir results in freshness and fullness in the expressions and aromas that embrace stone fruit, citrus, red fruit, and tropical fruit, with floral and mineral nuances.

Limestone soils dominate in the west and northeast and crystalline earth in the east, giving a rich variety to the region’s wines. The hot, dry summers, occasional heavy rain, and high levels of sunshine all contribute to make Provenç al rosés some of the finest to be found.

Of the region’s total wine production, 90 percent is rosés, with just 6 percent reds and 4 percent whites. And 91 percent of exports are rosés.

Hong Kong has become one of Asia’s top markets for Vins de Provence, with more than 140,000 bottles imported in 2019. These rosés have found a niche market among the city’s younger wine lovers, always curious to discover the new and different.

The fruitiness and freshness of Provence dry rosés make them perfect for Hong Kong’s diverse and savory culinary specialties. They enhance spicy flavors and are also perfect with fried rice or noodles, the city’s famous seafood, heritage dishes like char siu , ho fan , and dumplings – and, of course, Hong Kong’s illustrious Michelin-star cuisine.

Here or anywhere, a single sip of a Vins de Provence rosé – elegant, bright, fruit-forward, and with bracing minerality – has the power to evoke the sunny sweep of the Riviera or the depths of the lavender-strewn countryside.

在普罗旺斯的美景当前，如能啜饮一杯沁人心 脾、具当地风土特色的粉红酒，绝对是让人大 叹 “ 夫复何求 ” 的享受。普罗旺斯的粉红酒品 质一流，带有天然的浓度和细腻清新的口感。 普罗旺斯产区被南方的地中海、北方的 阿尔卑斯山、东方的尼斯及西方的艾克斯四面 包围。这里独特的气侯和风土赋予普罗旺斯粉 红酒清新饱满的酒体，并散发着核果、柑橘、 红色水果和异国水果的香气，同时带有细微的 花香和矿物气味。 这区的石灰岩土主要分布在西部和东北 部，东部则多为结晶土，多变的土质造就了种 类丰富的酒品。夏日炎热干燥，仅有零星的倾 盆大雨，充足的日照亦是普罗旺斯粉红酒品 质傲视全球的原因。当地出产的酒品中，有

90 ％的粉红酒，6 ％的红酒和 4 ％的白酒，其 中粉红酒就占了出口酒款的 91％。 香 港 是 普 罗 旺 斯 的 主 要 亚洲 市 场 之 一， 在 2019 年入口了高达 14 万瓶的粉红酒。选购 普罗旺斯粉红酒的香港消费者多是喜欢尝鲜的 年轻族群。 普 罗 旺 斯 粉 红 酒 果 香 浓 郁、 口 感 清 爽，

COURTESY OF CIVP

与香港各式各样的美味佳肴都很搭配，尤其它 能提高香料的风味，作为炒饭、炒面、香港著 名的海鲜，以及传统菜式叉烧、河粉、饺子和 各式米其林料理的佐餐酒都非常合适。 普罗旺斯粉红酒典雅明亮，带有主导的 水果香气与爽口的矿物感，不论何时何地享用， 都能让人仿佛置身法国蔚蓝海岸的绝美海滩， 或正身处薰衣草遍布的法国乡间。 road of stories

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PRESENTED BY THIMAX

美膳大师

PERFECTLY DONE Thimax creates the ultimate grill for steaks beyond compare.

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WHEN FRIENDS COME KNOCKING in eager anticipation of an elegant

如在聚餐狂欢时，亲友提出希望享用一顿精致的

steak dinner, budding home cooks need never again fret about the outcome. With Thimax’s newest smart-technology grill, they can play the role of master chef feeling confident and carefree, knowing that their meticulously selected cuts of meat will be cooked to perfection.

Thimax has long been committed to creating a culinary culture of excellence, and since its inception has been embraced by savvy Chinese consumers looking for home appliances of durablity and beauty.

Behind Thimax’s relentless focus on cutting-edge technology, precision construction, and high-end materials is the belief that “excellent tools are essential for achieving excellent results.”

The art of grilling the world’s best steaks starts with understanding the subtleties of beef. Grass-fed beef is leaner and has a firmer texture, while corn-fed beef has more marbling and is juicier. Corn-fed beef can take higher temperatures, while grass-fed beef requires a gentler touch and lower temperatures to keep the meat moist.

Each type of beef requires its own special approach, which is where Thimax’s intelligent design T+ program comes in handy. The mode, temperature control, and timer can all be customized, and the height lever can be adjusted to five levels based on the thickness of the steak.

Professional chefs rely on years of experience to tell with a quick prod of a finger when a piece of beef is cooked just right. For home chefs, Thimax’s built-in “TempProbe” is a godsend, allowing them to monitor the temperature of the beef without raising the lid. The aluminium die-cast design helps to heat the meat quickly and at a constant temperature, ensuring even cooking. And the durable Huafu coating cleans with just a quick wipe.

With its precision craftsmanship and gleaming Italian design that has won both the IF and Red Dot Design awards, the Thimax grill is a product to be showcased on the counter – enhancing the kitchen’s function and its stylish good looks.

牛 排 大 餐， 相 信 您 都 能 处 变 不 惊。 因 为 您 知 道

TK | ROAD OF STORIES

Thimax 膳美师的智能感温高端牛排机，将会把您 的每一块牛排烤得完美无瑕。 专注开发厨房烹饪电器的 Thimax 膳美师自 成立以来，一直致力于打造高品质的烹饪文化， 凝聚追求优质生活的中国消费者。“ 工欲善其事， 必先利其器 ”，品牌以精工技术和高档选材，精 心打造这台 Thimax 膳美师牛排机。 炙烤牛排的艺术在于掌握牛排的来源、品种 等会影响其口感和味道的信息。例如草饲牛的肉 质精瘦，口感更有嚼劲。谷饲牛的脂肪含量高， 且肉汁丰盈，可以较高的温度烹调。烹煮草饲牛 则需花更多心思，以较低温度炙烤来锁住肉汁。 每种牛肉都有其特定的烤制方式，这正是

Thimax 膳美师牛排机 T+ 智能牛排程序的亮眼之 处。它精准的控温控时功能，加上能作出五种不 同厚度调节的抬杆锁扣，让您轻松根据牛排的部 位和想要的成熟度，炙烤出完美的牛排。 大厨们通过日复一日的不断试验，才掌握烹 煮牛排的诀窍，知道它何时最适宜享用。Thimax 膳美师牛排机就是您的专属牛排大师，它的创新

“TempProbe” 感温探针能让您随时监控牛排的温 度和火候，不用频繁揭开盖子查看。它的铝压铸 烤盘能高效锁温恒温，确保牛排受热均匀。创新 的华福涂层防粘防油腻，轻轻一擦即可清洁干淨。

Thimax 膳美师牛排机做工精细，时尚的意 大利设计和铝压铸拉丝工艺让它获得 IF 设计奖和 红点奖两项设计大奖。它优雅的外观让厨房不再 平凡单调，兼任厨房功能及设计的一部分。

PRESENTED BY FRANKE

梦幻锌盘

think sink With its newly launched Fragranite Sink Series, Franke offers the latest in style and technology.

自 1911 年成立以来，瑞士传奇设计先锋品牌 Franke 推出 的厨房产品总能满足日常所需。此次品牌推出 Fragranite 花岗岩锌盘系列产品，不仅能满足当今最高品味顾客的需 求，更缔造了全新的生活体验。 全新欧洲制造的 Fragranite 花岗岩锌盘设计高雅极 简，而且十分耐用，还可随意加配各种功能组件，例如流 动排水器与 Franke 卷轴垫等，制备食物从此更简单轻松， 让烹调过程成为前所未有的享受。

Fragranite 花岗岩锌盘以世上最坚硬的材料──石英 精心打造而成，可承受物理撞击及高达 280 摄氏度的极高 温。即使遭受最锋利的刀刃刮割，或最顽强的红酒渍污染， 完美无瑕的表面仍能保持细致光泽。 为 了 “ 净 ” 益 求 “ 净 ”，Franke 与 Sanitized® 携 手， 将先进科技融入 Fragranite 花岗岩锌盘系列，让锌盘带有 抗菌保护的功能。这项技术配备 Sanitized® Silver 天然银 FRANKE, at the forefront of legendary Swiss design since 1911,

离子，能有效抑制细胞分裂，破坏细胞膜稳定性，大幅减少 99% 的

introduces its series of Fragranite kitchen sinks to meet the needs and enhance the lifestyles of today’s most sophisticated consumers.

The elegantly minimalist and durable design of each Europeanmade Fragranite sink is augmented by a range of practical accessories, including mobile drainers and the Franke roller mat, that simplify food preparation and make cooking more enjoyable than ever before.

Fragranite sinks are beautifully crafted from quartz, one of the hardest materials known. They easily resist physical impact and thermal shock, withstanding temperatures up to 280°C. And they perpetually maintain their subtle luster and flawless surface, even against scratching from the sharpest blades or staining from the strongest red wines.

For a cleaner clean, Franke has partnered with Sanitized® to provide the entire collection in the Fragranite Sink Series with its advanced technology for permanent antibacterial protection. Thanks to the power of natural silver ions in Sanitized® Silver, it’s bye-bye to bacteria. Cell division is inhibited, cell membranes are destabilized, and nutrient intake is impeded, reducing bacterial and microbial growth by an astounding 99 percent. The Sanitized® name is a guarantee of quality as well as a sign of trust that ensures hygienic protection. Normal cleaning of a Fragranite sink is all that is necessary to provide a safer and easier-to-maintain kitchen environment.

Modern good looks are equally a part of what makes Fragranite sinks such standouts. Available in a wide variety of sizes and configurations, they can be installed as inset, undermount, or

细菌和微生物孳生。Sanitized® 就是品质保证，为厨房带来卫生保护， 仅需日常清洁，Fragranite 花岗岩锌盘就可缔造安全、易于维护的厨 房环境。

Fragranite 花 岗 岩 锌 盘 外 型 时 尚 美 观， 除 了有多种尺寸规格任君 挑选，还可选择嵌入式、 台 下 式 或 齐 平 式 安 装， 以最自然的方式融入厨 房 整 体 设 计。 历 久 弥 新 的 外 型， 当 然 还 要 搭 配 经 典 长 青 的 色 调。 新 系 列备有四款历久不衰的 金属色调： 古铜金、灰色、 银 色、 古 铜 灰， 适 合 搭 配 任 何 厨 房 内 装， 升 级

flushmount units to seamlessly coordinate with any kitchen’s overall design. Timeless colors for a timeless look include four enduring metallic variations in the new series: Copper Gold, Lunar Grey, Sterling Silver, and Copper Grey. The striking range of contemporary colors has been designed to complement any interior décor and blend perfectly with every kitchen.

For more information, please visit the Franke website. | 了解更多详情，请浏览 Franke 官方网站。 | www.franke.com.hk

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COURTESY OF FRANKE (2)

您的现代厨房体验。

EVENT

灵感“匠·新”

autumnwinter innovation Hermès Shanghai Maison reveals its newest array of luxury products.

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法国著名奢侈品牌爱马仕以精细手工艺闻 名世界，最近品牌在上海爱马仕之家呈现

2020 秋冬新品系列，诠释年度主题 ── 匠 · 新。新品空间展出了一系列丝巾、领 带、香水、家具，以及品牌最具代表性的 皮带、皮具、鞋子等皮革制品。 名 为 Formule Chic 的 双 面 丝 巾， 两 面 分 别 印 有 Dimitri Rybaltch 创 作 的 老 式 汽 车 和 一 级 方 程 式 赛 车。“Kelly

Clochette” 玫 瑰 金 配 钻 石 系 列 体 现 女 性 世 界 的 浪 漫 气 息。 由 Nathalie Rolland-

Huckel 设 计 的 全 新 Passifolia 餐 瓷 系 列 巧妙结合了植物与艺术 ；最后以调香师

Christine Nagel 以威尼斯一个秘密花园为 灵感的舄湖花园香氛，为新品预览带来悠 长的尾调。

COURTESY OF HERMÉS

THE FAMED FRENCH high-fashion house whose name is synonymous with meticulous artisanal craftsmanship, Hermès, recently unveiled its 2020 autumnwinter product preview at its ultra-stylish four-story flagship store in Shanghai.

With the theme of Innovation in the Making, the new range showcases scarves, ties, accessories, fragrances, home furnishings, and, of course, the house’s renowned leather goods, including belts, bags, and shoes.

One example of innovation is a striking pure-silk scarf named Formule Chic that is printed on both sides with two different Dimitri Rybaltchenko designs, a classic car and a Formula One car.

The collection’s feminine focus on passion and romance is embodied in exquisite jewelry like the Kelly Clochette rose gold and diamond series.

Hermès’ new Passifolia porcelain tableware designs by Nathalie RollandHuckel feature lush, hyperreal patterns of flora and foliage. And a complex, unconventional fragrance formulated by Hermès creative director of perfumery Christine Nagel, Un Jardin sur la Lagune, was inspired by a secret garden in Venice.

EVENT

仲夏夜之梦

summer dreaming MHD and Shanghai’s Canteen 55 team up to create an extraordinary food-and-drink experience.

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上海创意法式餐厅 Canteen 55 携手全球领 先的高端酒业公司酩悦轩尼诗帝亚吉欧中 ，在兼 国（Moët Hennessy Diageo China） 容了海派文化及现实主义的新潮地标 ──

伯衡 55 内举行一场跨界的 “ 仲夏夜之梦 ” 派对，引领非同寻常的沪上品质生活。 在这栋时尚浪漫、新旧东西文化交融 的古典主义建筑内，有三家别树一格的特 色餐厅。其中 Akmé 重新创造原先的料理， 革新烹饪理念，改造成 Canteen 55 餐厅。 餐厅精致的料理与传承了独特风土与 传奇故事，并融汇传承与创新的 MHD 系列 酒品无疑是最佳配搭。 在 这 场 缤 纷 的 “ 仲 夏 夜 之 梦 ” 中， 伯 衡 55 与 MHD 联 合 打 造 了 Moët &

Chandon 香槟花园、轩尼诗干邑艺术品鉴 区、木桐嘉棣定制空间等专属区域，为人 们呈现美酒与 Canteen 55 的美食邂逅，让 宾客在慢享艺术之余，感受萦绕于舌尖的 精致奢享。

COURTESY OF MOËT HENNESSY DIAGEO CHINA

THE PARTNERSHIP WAS PERFECT: Moët Hennessy Diageo China, the world’s leading collection of luxury wine and spirit brands, and Canteen 55, Shanghai’s elegant new restaurant featuring French-inspired cuisine.

Together, they conjured up an enchanting summertime epicurean event called Midsummer Night’s Dream at Boheng 55, the landmark building that embodies Shanghai’s contemporary art-and-culture scene.

At the intersection of Hengshan Road and Urumqi South Road in the city’s charming Old Xuhui district, Boheng 55 integrates the traditional and the new, Eastern and Western cultural influences, and stately elements of classicism with bold modern art. It is home to three restaurants, one of which, the gracious Akmé, has recently been transformed into Canteen 55.

The restaurant’s refined, imaginative cuisine proved the perfect mate for the ultra-premium wines and spirits provided by Moët Hennessy Diageo China. Its stable of renowned brands brings with it a stunning roster of unique wine terroirs, a host of legendary stories, and distinguished pedigree combined with forward-looking innovation.

Midsummer Night’s Dream offered the city’s dedicated connoisseurs of fine food and drink an array of delectable opportunities, including the Moët & Chandon Champagne Garden, the Hennessy Cognac Art Appreciation Area, and the Mouton Cadet Custom Space.

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