TK48 Looking East

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T A S T I N G 48

K I T C H E N

L O O K I N G

ASIA Looking East 东方之意

E A S T

HONG KONG On the Wing 「永」于高飞

SHENZHEN Outside In 室内桃源

DIPTYQUE HK E-BOUTIQUE https://www.diptyqueparis.com/en_hk DIPTYQUE IFC MALL | Shop 1083, Level 1, ifc mall, Central | Hong Kong | +852 2521 6799 DIPTYQUE HARBOUR CITY | Shop 2410, Level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui | Hong Kong | +852 3188 9994 DIPTYQUE K11 MUSEA | Shop B125A, Level B1, K11 Musea | 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | Hong Kong | +852 9727 5903 DIPTYQUE FESTIVAL WALK | Shop G-20, Level G | 80 Tat Chee Ave. | Kowloon Tong | Hong Kong | +852 9171 9251 LANE CRAWFORD CANTON ROAD | 2/F, Lane Crawford Canton Road, 3 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | Hong Kong | +852 3586 9359 LANE CRAWFORD TIMES SQUARE | G/F, Lane Crawford Times Square, Causeway Bay | Hong Kong | +852 2111 97263

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恒隆广场旗舰店 恒隆广场旗舰店 上海市南京西路 上海市南京西路 12661266 号恒隆广场 号恒隆广场 4 楼 415A 4 楼 415A 单元 单元 电话：(+86) 电话：(+86) 21 6288 21 6288 88968896 久光百货专柜 久光百货专柜 上海市南京西路 上海市南京西路 16181618 号久光百货 号久光百货 7 楼 电话：(+86) 7 楼 电话：(+86) 21 6288 21 6288 28232823 Christofle Christofle HongHong KongKong Prince’s Prince’s Building Building ShopShop 117, 117, Landmark Landmark Prince’s Prince’s 10 Chater 10 Chater Road,Road, Central Central HongHong KongKong 香港中环太子大厦117号店 香港中环太子大厦117号店 | Tel: |+852 Tel: +852 28697311 28697311 Christofle Christofle HongHong KongKong SogoSogo 12/F,12/F, SogoSogo Department Department Store,Store, Causeway Causeway Bay, Hong Bay, Hong KongKong 香港铜锣湾崇光百货12楼 香港铜锣湾崇光百货12楼 | Tel: |+852 Tel: +852 28332833 82008200

分 享 · 致 此 时

分 享 · 致 此 时

A MASTER’S CHOICE Julien Royer Michelin Guide Black Pearl Restaurant Guide Ranked 2nd in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Chef-owner of Odette Singapore

www.spiegelau-store.com

T A S T I N G 48

K I T C H E N

L O O K I N G

E A S T

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃 全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG

MACAU

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上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室

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Mark Hammons

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MANAGING EDITOR 总编辑

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mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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lauriane@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

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DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

CHINESE EDITOR 中文编辑

Mamie Chen Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

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IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑

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SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑

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CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR 特約編輯

Zita Wan Vivian Pun ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑

Jonna Chen

Andrew Dembina Catherine Shaw Dorothy So Inara Sim Joyce Kwok Liu Wei Lucy Morgan Lucy Jenkins Ray Cai CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家

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Talyor Pan SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地社交媒体经理

ON THE COVER RUYI’s casserole holder solves a quandary faced by

many Chinese chefs: how to present a fire-to-table clay pot dish in a beautiful way without sacrificing its all-important heat retention. Vicky Cheng, executive chef of Wing, effortlessly slots his clay pot of mapo tofu, shirako, and intestine into the gold-trimmed, coral-red piece from RUYI’s Hantang Collection and confirms, “The design is very elegant, and food inside stays ripping hot.”

Photography by Samantha Sin

如何在为砂锅菜式保温的同时，又 能保持美观，一直是令中国厨师苦 恼的难题。「永」餐厅的郑永麒主 厨将他的麻婆豆腐、白子、猪肠放 入如意「汉唐」系列的珊瑚红龙纹 浮雕砂锅座，他说：「它的设计典 雅，而砂锅内的料理在上桌时仍是 热气腾腾。」

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2021 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Looking East , we celebrate the rising stars of Asia across the worlds of art, design, and gastronomy.

In our first art feature, we explore the history of Hong Kong’s art scene, going back to an era when local artists were commissioned to create designs for the city’s hotels and restaurants. Although many of the venues are gone, the collaborative exhibition, presented by the Asia Art Archive, is a valuable time capsule of that fertile period.

We then journey to Yunnan for features on two stunning landscapes, one of structural design and the other vinicultural. Honghe prefecture is an area of dramatic natural diversity, with soaring mountains and nearly half of China’s rare and endangered plant life. Amidst this natural abundance is a unique restaurant, 50% Cloud Artists Lounge, housed inside a vast and sprawling sculptural artwork, an architectural marvel crafted by artisans from local red brick, steel, and wood.

Heading northeast past Shangri-La City and toward Tibet, we reach the mythical winery of Ao Yun, which means “soaring above the clouds.” The vineyards, nearly three thousand meters above sea level, were chosen after a years-long search across China for the terrain most suitable for producing an indigenous luxury red wine. We share with you the creation story behind what has been called the Grand Cru of the Himalayas.

Our cover story takes us back to Hong Kong and the opening of a celebrated new Chinese restaurant by a French-trained chef who brings a spirit of curiosity, experimentation, and innovation to classic dishes.

The result is a menu that is undeniably Chinese, plated with poetry and infused with delight.

Enjoy. 亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。 本期主题「放眼东方」关注的是亚洲世界艺术、设计、美食领域中崛起的亮眼新星。 首先，本期的艺术专栏中探索香港历史上的美学场域，当时业者会委托艺术家设计酒店与餐厅，虽 然大部分的建筑现在都已走入历史，不复存在，而这场由亚洲艺术文献库所规划的联展就如同一个时空胶 囊，将那丰沛的艺术风华年代浓缩在其中。 接着我们带领读者远游中国云南省，欣赏鬼斧神工的建筑设计，以及传奇的葡萄酒庄园。云南省红 河的自然环境充满丰富多样化，这里不仅有巍峨的高山，且中国将近半数濒临灭绝的珍稀植物皆聚集于此， 而极其独特的半朵云艺术家会客厅便座落于天然美景中，外观是一座巨型雕塑艺术品，采用当地红砖、碳 钢、木材等质材建造，采用最古老天然的建筑工法。 此后，我们朝东北方继续行进，行经香格里拉往西藏的方向，带领读者来到神秘的敖云葡萄庄园， 「敖 云」二字意指「翱翔云际之上」，位于海拔将近三千公尺的高原上，酿酒师经过一整年在中国境内苦心寻 觅，终于择定此处作为种植并酿制当地高端葡萄酒的据点，所生产的佳酿享有「喜马拉雅的特级庄（Grand Cru）酒」的美誉，本期将与读者分享背后的渊源故事。 本期的封面故事引导读者回到香港，看一位受过法国美食烹饪训练洗礼的主厨所开设的中国餐厅， 他将好奇、实验、创新的精神融入许多经典中式料理，这些如假包换的中式菜肴，映入眼帘充满诗意，入 口瞬间，尽是好味道。 请享受悦读食光。

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

14 Thought for Food • 16 Lost Art • 18 Seeking Equilibrium • 22 New Nordic 26 Time-Friendly Tea • 28 Butterfly Effect • 30 Of Earth and Light • 36 Outside In 42 Wabi-Sabi Fantasy • 46 Looking East • 52 Guests First • 54 On the Wing 64 Ramen Reimagined • 68 Advancing Tradition • 76 Mystical Taste

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22 108 102

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90 Fivefold Inspiration • 94 Delicate Balance • 98 Perfect for Pairing 102 Perfect Pleasures • 108 Daringly Different • 114 Service First 118 Sophisticated Sichuan • 122 Fresh Expression • 124 Going Organic 126 Red, White, and Green • 128 Wellborn Barolo • 130 Single-Malt Masterpieces

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Deep Food’s project Pseudo Food addressed contemporary concerns around fake news. 深食的《伪装食品》提出了 假新闻为生活带来的隐忧。

ART

食之深思

thought for food

COURTESY OF DEEP FOOD

Challenging the idea that food is merely sustenance, a Hong Kong design cooperative explores the how and why of what we eat.

「深食」旨在启发大众对于食物的思考，创办人 CINDY CHAN AND HEINRIK NG, who head the insight-seeking coop陈可儿与伍泽均运用产品设计方面的知识，深 erative Deep Food, use their training in product design to investigate the 入探讨食物对于社会及心理层面的各种影响。 ways in which food influences the world’s social and psychological archi陈可儿说 ： 「我们都钟情于透过论述设计传达自 tecture. “Both of us have an interest in expressing our ideas through 己的想法，但开发工业产品的经济成本和环境 discursive design,” says Chan of the company’s origins. “However, we 成本太高了，以传统设计师的身份， found there was little room to realize this passion as tradi很难把这份热忱化为真实。 」因此他 tional designers, given the high economic and environmental 们转换思维，从食物的多元媒介下 costs of developing industrial products.” They turned instead BY 手，借此降低留下的生态足迹。 to the multidimensional medium of food, which they believe KATE NICHOLSON 深食起初与食品产业的客户进 leaves a lighter ecological footprint. 行商业合作，但现今主要着力于与 Initially, Deep Food worked with commercial clients in 政府机关及非营利机构合作的艺术 the food industry, but today its focus is on art projects, pri企划。他们以形式及风味多变的包子组成可食 marily in collaboration with government organizations and nonprofits. 用的理论，亦用食物创作出由沙岩中诞生的可 Ranging from edible essays made with variously shaped and flavored 食生物。陈可儿说 ： 「这些项目在香港的食物设 bao to food creatures born of sandstone, the projects, Chan says, “gen计师之间激荡出各种讨论，也激发香港人以及 erate discussions between food designers in Hong Kong and also with 世界各地厨艺界人士的思考，我们也常在线上 local and overseas culinary professionals, with whom we exchange 及线下与他们交流。 」 ideas online and off.” 附 图 为 深 食 于 2020 年 发 表 的《 伪 装 食 One example is their 2020 Pseudo Food , pictured here. “We find 品》 ，是他们如何阐述理念的绝佳范例。陈可 food to be a very friendly medium in the sense that many people can 儿说 ： 「食物是个平易近人的媒介，因为对许 easily create an association with it and we can communicate our mes多人而言，与食物建立连结相当容易，所以我 sages through our designed edible experiences,” says Chan. She and 们就能透过我们设计的进食体验来传递信息。 」 Ng used the rituals surrounding eating out to explore the sociopolitical 她和伍泽均运用在外用餐的各式环节，探讨现 challenges presented by the contemporary proliferation of inauthentic 今假消息充斥的现象对于社会及政治带来的种 information. The designers turned the act of ordering from a menu in 种挑战。在高级餐厅里读菜单点餐的程序摇身 a fine-dining restaurant into a “theatrical experience,” complete with 一变，成了体验剧场 ：侍者身穿铠甲戏服，关 staggering quantities of nutritional and food-fashion advice, decep于营养和饮食潮流的提议漫天飞，看似令人垂 tively delicious-appearing fare, and costumed, bard-like waitstaff. The 涎的食物竟是骗局。陈可儿解释 ： 「这场互动 interactive performance, Chan explains, was “a metaphor for how 式的表演是我们在日常充斥着假新闻的生活 we’re forced to intake information when faced with an overwhelming 中，被迫接收资讯的一种隐喻。我们相信，如 amount of fake news in our everyday lives. We believe we can pro果能提高大家对用餐行为范畴的兴趣，便能启 voke deep discussions if we can expand the areas of interest around 发更深层的讨论与交流。 」 our dining behaviors.” looking east

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昔日艺景

lost art A late artist’s idiosyncratic collection reveals glimpses into the evolution and vanished history of contemporary art in Hong Kong.

ART

COURTESY OF ASIA ART ARCHIVE AND TAI KWUN CONTEMPORARY

A COLLABORATIVE exhibition by Tai Kwun Contemporary and Asia

大馆当代美术馆与亚洲艺术文献库协力呈献一场收

藏展，展出已故香港艺术家夏碧泉（1925-2009） Art Archive (AAA), showcases snippets gleaned from over six hundred 的档案收藏。这位自学成才的雕塑家兼版画家生前 boxes of photographs, documents, and ephemera collected by Hong 收集了六百多箱照片、文件和印刷品。这批庞大文 Kong-based artist Ha Bik Chuen (1925–2009), a self-taught sculptor and 献收藏现今由亚洲艺术文献库托管，以独特的方式 printmaker. Today in the care of AAA, Ha’s vast assemblage presents 详载了香港于 1960 年代至 2000 年代早期艺术生 a uniquely precious time capsule detailing the rise of Hong Kong’s art 态的崛起。 scene from the late 1960s to the early 2000s. 《咫尺之内，开始之前 ：随意门及其他足迹》 Entitled Portals, Stories, and Other Journeys , the exhibition com展览由十个「场景」组成，除了呈现夏碧泉文献收 prises ten “sets” or installations that help make the material accessible 集与艺术创作的不同面向外，也以崭新角度表述各 by presenting various facets of Ha’s archival and art practices and by 式文件及工艺品，让参观者能亲身探索 restaging documents and artifacts in new contexts. 感受。 To walk into “Set #2: A Restaurant in 1970s Hong 走进第二个场景「七十年代香港 Kong” is to step into a moment in the city’s history when BY 某餐厅」 ，仿佛踏入了昔日那个艺术与 art and commerce were intimately intertwined. A 1967 KATE NICHOLSON 商业紧密相连的香港，天花板上挂着夏 Ha sculpture called Construction hangs on the ceiling, ，周围 碧泉 1967 年的雕塑作品《结构》 surrounded by imagery of a retro banquet restaurant. 张贴的是复古酒楼的图片。如今， 《结构》 Although now deemed a work of art, Construction was 被视为艺术创作，但它起初可能是夏碧泉为某餐厅 originally a mock-up for the eatery’s interior decoration. 所制的天花装饰的参考原型。 “In ’60s and ’70s Hong Kong,” explains curator Michelle Wong, “it 策展人黄湲婷解释 ： 「在 60 年代和 70 年代的 was not uncommon for artists to work commercially in terms of hotel 香港，艺术家透过商业合作，参与酒店及餐厅的室 and restaurant decoration. It’s part of Hong Kong’s history that hasn’t 内装饰，这是很普遍的。香港这部分的过去仍未被 been fully fleshed out, and it’s also difficult to do so because either the 充分重现，而要重现也是困难重重，因为许多作品 works are lost or the hotels are gone.” Indeed, the restaurant depicted 都消失了，要不就是酒店改建了。 」场景二中描绘 in “Set #2” has been demolished. 的餐厅亦如此言，已遭拆除。 “When we think about archives,” says Wong, “we usually think 黄湲婷表示 ： 「提到文献时，大家通常都会想 of documents and illustrative presentations, and that’s not neces到文件和图像，但这不一定是最引人入胜的展览形 sarily the most engaging form for exhibition. For so many of us who 式。对于策展团队而言，这些文献在我们的创作和 have worked on it, this archive has really left an imprint on our cre精神生活上留下了刻骨铭心的印记。这是一种很深 ative and intellectual lives. It’s something that’s very intimate, and 刻的感觉。我们也想跟其他人分享这种感受。 」 we wanted to share that with other people.”

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LOOKING EAST

INSPIRED LIVING

寻求平衡

SEEKING EQUILIBRIUM Ceramicist Amanda Tong transforms childhood lessons of physical harmony and health into contemporary porcelain teaware.

Ceramicist Amanda Tong’s teaware prompts users to look for ways to rebalance their lives. 陶艺设计师汤凯恩的茶具鼓励用家重新找到生活的平衡。

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INSPIRED LIVING

陶艺设计师汤凯恩就读于伦敦中央圣马丁 DURING AMANDA TONG’S TRAINING at Central Saint Martins in 艺 术 与 设 计 学 院 期 间， 首 度 构 思 出 大 理 石 London, she first came up with the concept for her ongoing marbled 花 纹 陶 瓷 系 列 作 品《 平． 行 》 （The Perfect porcelain collection, The Perfect Imbalance . Graduating with First Class Honours, she earned a prestigious Sylvia Nisbet Prize for her initial iteraImbalance）。她以一级荣誉学位毕业后，该 系 列 初 期 的 作 品 荣 获 波 兰 Sylvia Nisbet 奖， tion of the collection as well as an artist residency in Poland. The Perfect 使她能以艺术家身份进驻波兰。汤 Imbalance , says Tong, “is inspired by the Eastern philosophical 凯恩指出 ： 「 《平．行》这个作品的 concepts of yin and yang, specifically how the two opposing 灵感来自于东方哲学中的『阴、 阳』 energies coexist by constantly finding balance with each other.”

BY 概念。阴与阳是两种相反的能量， What she calls “the soul of the whole collection,” a sculpKATE NICHOLSON 但 透 过 相 互 调 和、 平 衡， 可 以 达 tural series of bowls, is meant to be played with. Purposely 致两者并存。 」 unbalanced through their formation and the seesaw-like 她 将《 平． 行 》 中 的 雕 塑 陶 wooden tray they sit on, the pieces encourage participa瓷碗称为该系列的灵魂，带有玩乐的元素。她 tion. Which way each one tilts depends on the weight of the food being 为陶瓷碗塑型时刻意营造出不平衡感，置于类 served. “The interactive design prompts the user to take control and 似跷跷板的木架上，吸引观者与之互动。陶碗 adjust the balance,” Tong explains. “Since then, I’ve developed a range 会偏向哪一侧，取决于所承装食物的重量。汤 of homeware and teaware for people to enjoy, prompting us to look for 凯恩解释 ： 「互动的设计让使用者能够掌控并 ways to rebalance for a better life approach.”

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Left: Tong mixes black and white porcelain using a Japanese technique called nerikomi.

Right: The marbled patterns serve as a metaphor for the individuality of the human body.

汤凯恩运用日本的 「绞胎」技法，绞合 黑白颜色的瓷泥。

大理石般的黑白纹理 象征人体的独特性。

The Perfect Imbalance is inspired by the Eastern philosophical concepts of yin and yang. 《平．行》系列作品 的灵感来自东方哲学 中的「阴阳」 概念。

IMAGES COURTESY AMANDA TONG CERAMICS. (3 + PRECEDING PAGE )

When she was a young child, her family practiced yin-yang food therapy, a daily healthy-eating method found in traditional Chinese medicine. Her harmony-focused upbringing has ingrained the importance of balancing bodily energy, something she now brings to her pottery making. For The Perfect Imbalance , Tong mixed black and white porcelain using a Japanese technique called nerikomi , a method she still employs for all the pieces she produces today. Because it is impossible to recreate identical marbled patterns every time, each piece is unique and serves as a metaphor for the individuality of the human body.

Although she now lives and works in Japan, Tong spent much of her life in either Hong Kong, where she was born and later worked, or Britain, where she studied and founded her eponymous brand. Three moves over a seven-year career have given her access to fresh materials, glazes, and ways of working and have revitalized her collection with each change of place and pace.

She fondly remembers London, where she first discovered her passion for marbling, for the naivete and courage she had during this formative time. Back in Hong Kong, a lack of access to her “British blend” of clays forced her to experiment yet again. Japan, Tong says, is a place of recharge and respite following life in two of the world’s busiest cities.

“It’s been amazing to witness how much the collection has evolved,” she says, “not only from a materials perspective as I explore porcelain sourced from different parts of the world, but also in its meaning, both to me as a maker and hopefully to my audience too. At a glance, the collection may look the same, but I can assure you the pieces have now been infused with a deeper understanding of what it truly means to restore balance.”

调整食器的平衡。自那时开始，我便发展出一系列的 家居用品与茶具，鼓励大家思考如何重新找到平衡， 打造更美好的生活方式。 」 汤凯恩童年时，家人在食疗中融入传统中医学 「阴阳调和」的观念，因此她对于身体能量的平衡有 根深蒂固的信念，更将此信念挹注于陶瓷创作。 《平． 行》系列作品运用日本特殊的「绞胎」技法，将黑白 两种颜色分明的瓷泥绞合，让每次创作的作品都具有 独一无二的黑白纹理，而汤凯恩亦持续将此技法运用 到所有作品中。使用这种手法制作的成品无法复制， 因此也象征人体的独特性。 汤凯恩目前旅居日本，她以前曾在香港与英国 生活了一段很长的时间。她出生于香港，也曾在香 港工作，长大后到英国深造进修，还在英国创立个 人同名品牌。她在七年职涯中迁徙三次，每次她都 发掘到新的材质、釉料与技法，而新的时空与生活 节奏也为作品带来新的生机。 汤凯恩拥有许多在伦敦的美好回忆，她在此爱 上了陶艺，充满初生之犊的纯然天真与勇气。回到 香港后，因为难以取得「英国调制」的陶土，她被 迫试验各种新的陶土材质。日本则让她在经历过香 港与英国两地的快节奏生活后，能够重新充电，稍 加喘息。 她说 ： 「看到这个系列不断有新的发展，真的太 好了。我运用世界各地不同的陶土加以创作，不只材 质有变化，每件作品也被赋予不同的意义。不仅是 创作者本身，我也希望欣赏作品的人能够体会个中 涵义。乍看之下， 这些系列作品与从前的没什么不同， 但是我向你保证，现在每件作品对何为确实地恢复 平衡，有着更深层次的理解。 」 looking east

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new nordic 新北欧风 BY CATHERINE SHAW

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INSPIRED LIVING

Manks furniture, lighting, and home décor brings the freshest Scandinavian design concepts to Hong Kong.

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INSPIRED LIVING

E V E R S I N C E S C A N D I N AV I A N D E S I G N , with its down-to-earth, minimalist, sleekly functional style, became popular throughout the world in the 1950s, it has resolutely defied every passing interior design fad and trend. But in recent years, it has also begun to evolve, thanks to a new generation of imaginative designers from Denmark, Norway, and Sweden who offer fresh perspectives on contemporary lifestyles.

“Most people think of Scandinavian design as only one timeless style,” says Manks design store cofounder and Executive Director Paul Fung. “But young designers are developing it further, while carrying on the masters’ traditions.”

Fung and his wife, entranced by the designs they saw on their honeymoon in Denmark, opened their first Hong Kong store in 1996 in Central, specializing in antique pieces, and soon Manks became synonymous with Scandi style.

“At that time,” recalls Fung, “Italian and British brands dominated the design scene in Hong Kong. We were the first to sell Scandinavian styles.” In the years that followed, the couple expanded from antiques to modern classics, and today, their six-thousand-squarefoot showroom in Wong Chuk Hang is a treasure trove of outstanding pieces, including chairs and tables by Hans J. Wegner, a Poul Henningsen Artichoke pendant lamp, and glass vases by Finnish architect and designer Alvar Aalto.

“The traditional aesthetic is practical, simple, and enduringly popular,” says Fung. “Soothing neutral tones, handcrafted details, and a focus on clean lines and functionality mean the furniture is easy to live with.

The furniture is not just about a look – the shape and measurements are always designed with the function in mind, so that a chair for dining is very different from a chair for lounging.”

But Fung is also excited by the current wave of young designers experimenting with new takes on the masterly forms that are part of their design heritage: “Their success lies in balancing a respect for traditional quality, integrity, craftsmanship, and quiet elegance with a fresh touch through textures and bolder hues.”

Nordic countries remain a prolific hotbed of talent and innovation, with Norway’s Bergen Academy of Art and Design and Sweden’s Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design regarded as two of the world’s best design schools. World-class events, such as Stockholm Design Week and 3 Days of Design in Copenhagen, give younger Scandinavians, including design studio Space Copenhagen and lighting designer Sofie Refer, the opportunity to showcase their work, which has recently centered on recycled, environmentally friendly materials.

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“ The traditional aesthetic is practical, simple, and enduringly popular.

传统美学实用、简单、历久不衰。” Paul Fung

→ ↓ Fredericia: Danish Modern Originals Crafted to Last 历久不衰的丹麦现代家具品牌Fredericia

北欧设计自 1950 年代风靡全球，提倡实用、极简、流畅 线条的功能性，与过往室内设计的潮流趋势可谓背道而驰。 近年，丹麦、挪威、瑞典新一代创意无限的设计师为当 代生活型态注入了全新观点，北欧家具设计又开始演化。 「许 Manks 创办人之一兼常务董事 Paul Fung 说 ： 多人以为北欧设计只有一种风格，从来不变。但年轻设 计师们在保留设计大师的传统同时，让北欧设计进化。 」

Paul 和妻子在丹麦度蜜月时，为眼前所见的设计着迷不 已，于是 1996 年在香港中环开了第一家专卖古董的店。 没多久，Manks 便成为北欧风的代名词。 「那时意大利和英国品牌称霸了香港 Paul 回忆道 ： 设计圈，我们是第一家销售北欧设计的店。 」随后几年， 他们的产品品项从古董扩展到现代经典家具，如今拥有 一间位于黄竹坑、面积高达六千平方英尺的展场。这个 展场收藏了各式各样 Hans J. Wegner 设计的桌椅、一盏 Poul Henningsen 设计的叶果吊灯，以及芬兰建筑师暨设 计师 Alvar Aalto 的多个玻璃花瓶，俨然是一座价值连城 的藏宝库。 「传统美学实用、简单、历久不衰。抚慰 Paul 说 ： 人心的中性基调、手工雕琢的细节，以及对俐落线条与 功能性的重视，意味着使用者能轻易与家具共处。家具 不仅要美观，功能也会影响设计的形状和尺寸，因此餐 椅跟休闲椅的设计截然不同。 」 话虽如此，Paul 仍十分乐见现时年轻设计师在经典 设计的形式上勇于尝新的浪潮 ： 「他们之所以成功，是因 为他们尊重传统的品质、诚信、工艺与静默的优雅，同

COURTESY OF MANKS (2 + 4 FROM PREVIOUS PAGES)

时在质地上创新，色调的使用也更大胆。 」

“Their designs reflect a cultural change toward a perception of luxury that prioritizes sustainability,” Fung explains. “A new focus on healthy living and wellness means that pieces like a kneeling chair by Norwegian Peter Opsvik are presented in fresh new colors selected

by Shane Schneck. And stools made from recycled beer waste by ethical Finnish design brand Mater and recycled glassware from Iittala are increasingly popular.”

All this works especially well with contemporary lifestyles in Mainland China, where young consumers, particularly in design-conscious cities like Shanghai, eschew copies and are looking for sound investments in authentic products. In 2019, Manks became the exclusive agent in Greater China for Fredericia, the brand known for the Spanish Chair by Børge Mogensen and Taro dining tables

by Jasper Morrison.

The Chinese market, Fung says, has a fast-growing appetite for Nordic design these days: “When we were on our honeymoon, we were the only Chinese visitors at the Designmuseum Danmark in Copenhagen, but when we returned a couple of years ago to celebrate our anniversary, we found a new generation of young designers with pieces alongside exhibits from Scandinavian design masters that we’re familiar with. And the whole museum was full of Chinese!”

北欧国家向来是孕育人才与创新的摇篮。挪威卑尔 根艺术与设计学院和瑞典工艺与设计大学被誉为其中两 所全球最顶尖的设计学校，斯德哥尔摩设计周和哥本哈 根的「3 Days of Design」等世界一流的活动，为设计工 作室 Space Copenhagen 和灯光设计师 Sofie Refer 等年 轻的北欧人提供了展示自己创作的机会，最近更着重于 使用回收再利用的环保材质。 「他们的设计反映出文化上的转 Paul 接 着 解 释 ： 变，现代人倾向以永续为本的奢华感。基于现在对健康 生活的重视，挪威设计师 Peter Opsvik 设计的跪椅用上 Shane Schneck 精心挑选的颜色崭新问世。另外，以伦 理为核心价值的芬兰设计品牌 Mater 用回收啤酒瓶制作 的凳子，及 Iittala 用回收玻璃瓶制作的凳子，都越来越 受欢迎。 」 这样的趋势恰好与中国的当代生活方式不谋而合， 尤其在上海等重视设计的大都会，年轻消费者厌弃仿作， 偏向找寻值得投资的原创商品，像是因 Børge Mogensen 设计的西班牙椅与 Jasper Morrison 的 Taro 餐桌而声名 远播的丹麦家具品牌 Fredericia。2019 年，Manks 成功 取得 Fredericia 在中国的独家代理权。

Paul 发现北欧设计越来越受中国市场青睐。「度蜜 月时，我们是哥本哈根丹麦艺术与设计博物馆里唯一的 华人游客。但几年前，当我们旧地重游庆祝结婚周年， 发现在我们熟知的北欧设计大师展览中，出现了年轻世 代设计师的作品，而且整间博物馆里都是华人！」 looking east

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茶韵随身

time-friendly tea A Chinese design duo creates an elegant tea set for those on the go.

BY KATE NICHOLSON

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INSPIRED LIVING

COURTESY OF DEFRONT (2)

THE TRADITIONAL CHINESE TEA ceremony has a history that spans a thousand years, and veteran tea drinkers of the classic style must rely on decades of experience to get the temperatures and brewing times for different leaves just right.

Danyang Fu and Jingzi Pan, cofounders of designer brand DEFRONT, realized after living for a time in the UK that the convenience of takeaway coffee and milk tea made with easybrew methods like bags had captured today’s fast-paced generation across both Asia and the West. To spark the imagination of such timepoor beverage aficionados, they set out to design a tea service that would take all of the complication out of the tea-drinking experience without sacrificing taste or the gratification of the ritual.

The pair got to work creating what they eventually dubbed the HEI Tea Set. Made from zisha , a clay used for centuries to craft traditional Chinese teaware, the portable set comes in a choice of black or gray. “Those are the colors of the mud itself,” notes Pan, “without post-glazing or artificial additions.”

A thermometer hidden in the design lets the drinker measure the temperature of the water using numbers marked on the lid. The conservatively proportioned teacup can be nestled into the top of the pot when not in use. HEI can

be used to brew any kind of tea but is especially suited to small-leaf varieties. “We recommend black and jasmine tea,” say Fu and Pan. Two years in the making from conception to launch, the HEI Tea Set was first offered for sale in 2017 on the crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. “We hoped to revive the experience of the Chinese tea ceremony,” Fu explains, “but in a way that could be easily integrated into the lifestyles of the younger generations. And now anyone can enjoy a perfect pot of tea at home, in the office, or while traveling.”

传统中式茶道已有一千多年的历史，深谙沏茶技术的老手必须依靠 数十载的经验，才能将不同茶叶的水温与浸泡时间拿捏得恰到好处。 DEFRONT 品牌创办人傅丹阳与潘静子旅居英国一段时间后发 现，即冲咖啡和奶茶让人能轻松带走的便利性，吸引了当今生活步 调快速的东西方年轻世代。为了让没时间泡茶的饮茶爱好者也能尽 情享受品茶之乐，他们决定设计一种让喝茶的过程不再繁复，而且 茶香依旧浓郁芬芳的品茶用具，令爱茶之人感到幸福满足。 于是两人着手打造出他们口中所说的「HEI 体验茶器」 。这套可 携式茶具组是用数世纪以来专门制作传统中式茶具的紫砂土烧制而 成，备有黑色和灰色两款。潘静子说 ： 「这两个颜色就是泥土本身的 颜色，没有上釉，也没有任何人工添加物。 」 他们还为茶具设计了隐藏式温度计，喝茶的人可根据壶盖上的 刻度得知水温。茶杯的造型比例相对保守，不使用时可收纳进茶壶 顶端。 「HEI 体验茶器」可用来冲泡任何茶种，小型的茶叶品种尤其 合适。两位设计师建议 ： 「泡红茶和茉莉花茶最好。 」 从概念发想到上市历经两年， 「HEI 体验茶器」于 2017 年首度在 「我们希望能振兴中国 公众募资平台 Kickstarter 贩售。傅丹阳解释 ： 茶道体验， 但是以能轻易融入年轻世代生活的方式。 」现在， 不论在家、 在办公室、甚至在旅途中，人们都可以随时享受一壶完美好茶。 LOOKING EAST | TK |

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PRESENTED BY LALIQUE

蝴蝶效应

butterfly effect A pastry chef draws luscious inspiration from an exclusive collaboration with Lalique.

“I LOVE BUT TERFLIES,” says Holger Deh, executive pastry chef of Rosewood Hong Kong. “I love their colors, shapes, and patterns. I don’t consciously look for them, but they’ve somehow always made their appearance throughout my career.” Perhaps, then, it came as no surprise that the hotel’s all-day lounge would be named The Butterfly Room and would showcase six pieces from British artist Damien Hirst’s Zodiac series of brilliantly hued butterflies and household gloss paint on canvas.

Equally appropriate is Rosewood’s newly launched collaboration with luxury French crystal brand Lalique. For a limited time, three crystal panels of silhouetted butterflies from the Lalique x Damien Hirst Eternal collection will be prominently displayed directly below their Zodiac counterparts. Like stained glass windows, they catch and filter the natural light, enhancing the room’s sense of warmth and romance.

At the table during afternoon tea, the exquisite cherry blossoms on the Lalique Sakura vase and the elegant frosted rim detailing on the stemware of the Lalique & James Suckling 100 Points Collection complement the fanciful delicacy of the savory morsels and sweet indulgences on offer.

Guests can enjoy a unique sparkling wine tea made from a cold brewing of The Butterfly Room’s signature blend mixed with Champagne and a touch of StGermain elderflower liqueur. It is prepared tableside from a dedicated trolley and served in a 100 Points glass.

In celebration of the collaboration with Lalique, Deh has also created a selection of special confections, such as his whimsical bauble of almond sponge with elderflower cream and raspberry jelly and a heavenly series of cakes inspired by Hirst’s collections, including one of yogurt, passion fruit, and mango and another of strawberry and vanilla, each adorned with a beautifully handcrafted butterfly.

香港瑰丽酒店的饼房行政总厨 Holger Deh 说 ： 「我喜爱蝴蝶，我爱它们的色彩、 形态和纹路。我不会刻意寻找它们的踪迹，但不知为何，我的职业生涯中始终 有蝴蝶的身影。 」这么说来，这家酒店将全天候开放的酒廊命名为 The Butterfly Room，且展示了六件英国艺术家 Damien Hirst 以蝴蝶为题、色调鲜艳的 Zodiac 艺术作品，以及采用家用亮光漆绘制的油画，也就不足为奇了。

其中三款水晶版画将置于 Zodiac 系列作品下方最显眼的位置，作限期展示。这些 水晶版画跟彩色玻璃窗一样，巧妙捕捉且过滤了自然光线，为室内带来温暖浪漫 的情调。 下午茶的悠闲时刻，桌面上装饰着雅致的樱花图案花瓶，而 Lalique & James Suckling 的《壹百分》系列酒杯与各式华丽的糕饼和甜点相互辉映。 宾客可选择以 The Butterfly Room 的招牌调和酒、香槟和少许圣杰曼接骨木 花酒冷酿而成的茶调气泡酒，风味独特怡人。茶调气泡酒置于桌边的精致小推车， 以《壹百分》系列的酒杯享用，更能体会其醇香。 总厨 Holger 也为了这次与 Lalique 的联名合作，推出特制小点。例如他天马 行空以接骨木花鲜奶油和覆盆子果冻制成的杏仁海绵蛋糕，以及从 Damien Hirst 的作品中获得灵感而制作的诱人糕点，包括一系列优格、百香果、芒果、草莓、 香草口味的蛋糕，每一款蛋糕上都装饰着手工制作的美丽蝴蝶。

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WHAT THE FOX STUDIO (2), COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD (2)

瑰丽酒店和法国水晶品牌 Lalique 的全新合作，也算是天时人和的美妙机缘。 Lalique 与 Damien Hirst 联名的《Eternal －永恒》系列作品定格了蝴蝶的美态，

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红土之上 日光之下

of earth and light Guests at 50% Cloud Artist Lounge dine within a soaring, ethereal work of art.

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DESIGN

← The cavernous towers are constructed from bricks made from locally sourced red clay.

The entranceway stairs are modeled on the undulations of the nearby Honghe Hani Rice Terraces.

塔状建筑群以本地烧制 的红砖修建而成。

餐厅入口的台阶设计以云南红 河水稻梯田的起伏为灵感。 LOOKING EAST | TK |

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WANG TING, COURTESY OF 50% CLOUD ARTISTS LOUNGE (1 + PRECEDING PAGE )

中国云南省山水壮丽，在人文地理各层面皆丰富多样，对到 TOURISTS TRAVELING ANYWHERE in China’s Yunnan 访的游客来说定是充满惊喜。这里有海拔三千多米的高山， province are bound to be astounded. It is an area of 超过 42% 濒临灭绝的中国珍稀植物和四十多个不同族群聚集 dramatic diversity, with mountain peaks reaching three 于此，但也许较不为人知的是，云南省红河哈尼族彝族自治 thousand meters, over 42 percent of China’s rare and 州弥勒市有座独一无二的餐厅 – 半朵云艺术家会客厅。 endangered plant life, and more than forty disparate ethnic 半朵云艺术家会客厅之所以让各界名人、媒 groups. Perhaps less widely known is that the 体网红、艺术家、建筑家趋之若鹜，纷纷不远千 county-level metropolis of Mile City in Honghe 里前来造访，是因为这间与世隔绝的餐厅融入在 prefecture is also home to a one-of-a-kind resBY 一座巨型雕塑艺术品之中。占地二千平方米、高 taurant called 50% Cloud Artists Lounge.

KATE NICHOLSON 低起伏的「土著巢」塔状造型不禁令人联想到巨 What attracts everyone, from celebrities 大的蚁丘，如此独特的设计出自云南当地艺术家 and social media influencers to artists and archi罗旭之手，整体结构设计概念似乎比较接近电影 tects, to this isolated dining destination is the 《星际大战》的场景，而非常见的地表建筑。 fact that it is housed inside a vast sculptural artwork. The 整个建筑群的修建全部使用本地烧制的红砖，没使用一 undulating towers of Aboriginal Nest , vaguely reminiscent 根钢筋，一颗钉子，看似不稳定的柱状体其实拥有工业强度 of giant termite mounds, were created by local-born artist 的结构支撑力。罗旭在两年前参加由弥勒市政府与云南艺术 Luo Xu and cover a two-thousand-square-meter area. The 学院合办的弥勒东风韵国际设计工作坊中，设计出这个作品， structure seems to belong more to a Star Wars set concept 后来相关单位决定以「土著巢」的设计概念落实打造一家独 than to anything found on planet Earth.

DESIGN

CCD has brought definition to the various service areas with an intelligent furniture selection custom-made by the firm’s sub-brand, Wowu Art Consultancy. 香港郑中设计事务所旗下的品牌Wowu艺术顾问公司运 用巧妙的家具搭配，区别出餐厅内不同功能的区域。

The towers are constructed from bricks made from locally sourced red clay. Not a single nail or screw is used to hold these seemingly precarious but industrial-strength cylinders together. Luo crafted the work two years ago during the Creative MILE workshop, an arts initiative orga-

步全球的餐厅，于 2020 年 10 月开幕。虽然当时全球正受新

nized jointly by the Mile City government and Yunnan Arts University. The decision was made to turn the interior of Aboriginal Nest into one of the world’s truly unique restaurants, and it opened its doors in October 2020. Incredibly, despite a pandemic ravaging the wider world, the interior design conceptualization and construction were completed in just over six months by Hong Kong-founded design firm Cheng Chung Design (CCD).

In order to remain faithful to the intentions of its creator, the CCD team visited the artist in his Yunnan studio. While there, says Joe Cheng, CCD founder and chairman, they “got a detailed introduction to the architectural design concept and local cultural background to strengthen our understanding

事长郑忠先生表示，他们在此深刻了解该建筑详尽的设计概

冠肺炎疫情重创，CCD 香港郑中设计事务所仍能以六个月左 右的时间完成内部装潢设计与整体建造。 为了忠实呈现原创者的精神，CCD 香港郑中设计事务所 团队实地走访了罗旭位于云南的工作室。事务所创始人及董 念以及当地文化背景，更能强化团队对于整体建筑的理解及 诠释。与罗旭先生会面后，团队决定将建筑的弧形线条以反 置的方式应用到内部空间，外部建筑与内部空间的建材都采 用精心挑选的天然质材，包含大理石、碳钢、乌色木材、砖 土，以低敛色彩融入红砖建筑氛围，连餐厅入口的台阶设计， 都以云南红河水稻梯田为灵感，引导访客步上阶梯，通过以 弧形钢板打造的大门。 走入餐厅，映入眼帘的是圆弧形的吧台，一旁摆设适合 一至四人用餐的小桌，以及可容纳八至十二人的隐密空间。 内部空间设计带有浓厚的巢穴感，但是香港郑中设计事务所 运用巧妙的家具选用搭配，区别出餐厅内不同功能的区域， 而家具选用搭配则委由该团队旗下的品牌 Wowu 艺术顾问公 looking east

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Seating arrangements are carefully positioned under skylights, so guests can dine in the sunlight.

The undulating towers of Aboriginal Nest were created by local-born artist Luo Xu and cover a two-thousandsquare-meter area.

WANG TING, COURTESY OF 50% CLOUD ARTISTS LOUNGE (2)

座位位置依据天窗投下的光 来进行规划，让每位客人用 餐时都能享受自然采光。

占地二千平方米、高低起伏 的「土著巢」塔状造型由云 南当地艺术家罗旭设计。

of the architecture.” Following the meeting, the CCD team knew that what was required was to extract the curved lines of the artwork and reimagine them in inverted form inside the restaurant. Both the building and its new interiors are crafted from naturally occurring materials, including lime marble, black steel, ebony-colored wood, and clay.

The colors and textures were painstakingly selected to complement the red brick of the building. Even the entrance pays homage to the area in which it sits: sweeping stairs, modeled on the historically significant Honghe Hani Rice Terraces, take the visitor through an arched doorway lined with organically modeled steel paneling.

Inside, there is a curvaceous bar, tables for small groups of one to four, and a series of private rooms seating between eight and twelve guests. While the interior is undeniably cavernous, CCD has brought definition to the various service areas with an intelligent furniture selection custommade by the firm’s sub-brand, Wowu Art Consultancy, and only the occasional wall. Particularly challenging was the fact that 50% Cloud Artists Lounge has no windows.

Sunlight, permeating the building through skylights at the very top of each dome, casts perpetually changing shadows on the brick walls surrounding the dining spaces. “While preserving the integrity of the original building, we also considered the comfort of the guests’ dining experience,” Cheng explains. “Therefore, all seating arrangements follow the trajectory of natural light, which allows every guest to enjoy the sunlight while dining indoors.”

Indeed, light is an essential element in this ethereal space. The CCD team even traveled to Ronchamp in France to study how architect Le Corbusier used light in the NotreDame du Haut. “Its close relationship with the surrounding environment, sculptural design techniques, and application of light gave us new inspiration,” notes Cheng. Finally, living greenery brings Yunnan’s thriving jungles indoors, creating a multisensory dining experience.

But for CCD, their work’s greatest success is in the benefits the project has brought to the local people. As soon as it opened, the restaurant attracted global media attention, winning coveted design awards like Germany’s Red Dot: Best of the Best and bringing much-needed tourism to the remote town. The interior, says Cheng, “combines traditional culture and modern fashion, sharing local traditional ethnic customs with the world and exposing local people to global trends. Contributing to society with professional achievements and creating value through design is the most meaningful part for us.”

司安排。过程中面临的一大挑战是餐厅并没有窗，而是透过圆形天窗让 自然光从天而降， 投射于砖墙上的光影流动幻变不定。郑忠先生指出： 「在 建筑墙体不能做任何装饰性改造的前提下，我们也考量到宾客用餐的舒 适性，因此我们依据天窗投下的光来进行平面规划和家具布置，让每位 客人用餐时都能享受自然采光。 」 确实，在这个飘渺的空间里， 「光」是非常重要的元素，设计团队 甚至到法国朗香教堂取经，研究法国建筑师 Le Corbusier 如何建造罗马 天主教圣母朝圣小圣堂。郑忠先生补充 ： 「这座建筑与周遭环境密切的 关系、雕塑设计工艺以及对于光线的运用，赋予我们全新灵感。 」除此 之外，半朵云艺术家会客厅的空间以绿色植物作点缀，将云南生机盎然 的丛林带到室内，让宾客在用餐时享受多重感官体验。 然而，对于香港郑中设计事务所而言，最大的成就在于此作品能让 当地人实质受惠。半朵云艺术家会客厅当时一开幕，便吸引全球媒体关 注，荣获德国红点最佳设计奖等奖项，振兴当地旅游产业。郑忠先生指 出： 「餐厅内部设计结合传统文化与现代风尚，将传统民族文化风俗展 现给全世界，并把全球趋势带给当地人民。以专业成就回馈社会、透过 设计创造价值，这对我们来说是最有意义的事。 」 looking east

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室内桃源

outside in A Shenzhen restaurant’s courtyard-like spaces and strikingly contemporary interiors win Best of the Year honors from the 2021 China Restaurant Design Awards.

Gem Garden’s interiors are a calming retreat from the urban chaos of Shenzhen. 珍庭营造了远离深圳 都市烦嚣的宁静环境。

DESIGN

COURTESY OF HORIZONTAL DESIGN

与典型的中式或潮州餐厅相比，珍庭的独特之 GEM GARDEN, with its elevated cuisine and secret-garden-style inte处在于其精致的菜肴以及秘密庭院般的内部空 rior, doesn’t resemble any typical Chinese or Chaozhou restaurant. Quirky 间。在这个格局宽敞开放的空间里，传统风格 silk and acrylic chandeliers contrast with traditionally inspired paintings 的画作和木雕挂于现代感十足的混凝土墙及石 and wood carvings that hang on decidedly contemporary concrete and 墙上，与丝绸和压克力吊灯形成反差。珍庭座 stone walls in open, airy spaces. Located in a brand-new mall in Shenzen’s 落于深圳福田区内一间作为城市更新项目的崭 redeveloped Futian District, Gem Garden offers guests an escape from the 新商场，让宾客逃离城市生活的熙攘，在宁静 frenzy of city life, a serenely elegant setting in which to experience the 高雅的氛围中享用顶级潮州料理。 finest of Chaozhou cuisine. 珍庭是植庭餐饮集团旗下的新品牌。该 “It’s definitely unconventional,” says Tom Ma, owner of ZT Hospitality 集团总监马英达说 ： 「它的风格确实相当新颖。 Group, the firm behind the stylish eatery. “We decided it was time to open 我们认为是时候开一间旗舰潮州餐厅，向我们 a flagship Chaozhou restaurant to honor our hometown’s cuisine.” 的家乡菜式致敬。 」 ZT Hospitality Group entered the restaurant trade almost a decade 植庭餐饮集团在十年前开设植藤日本料 ago with Zhiteng Izakaya. What started as a side business for Ma’s father 理，正式踏足餐饮业。起初，马英 snowballed into a stable of ten casual and fine-dining restau达的父亲仅仅把餐饮作为副业，然 rants across Shanghai and Shenzhen, including Fei Chang Chao 而业务像雪球一样越滚越大。数年 and a hit teppanyaki spot in the five-star Marriott Hotel in BY 后，集团在上海和深圳开设的休闲 Nanshan. After many years of hard work, this newest restauKATE NICHOLSON 餐厅和高级餐厅已达十间，其中包 rant represents a homecoming for the company. 括非常潮菜馆，以及旗下位于深圳 An unexpected bonus was snagging the Best of Year 五星级中洲万豪酒店的热门铁板料 Interior Design Award at the newly inaugurated 2021 China 理据点。经多年奋斗后，最新开业的珍庭则标 Restaurant Design Awards (2021 CRIDA). Jointly organized by Tasting

Kitchen (TK) and Hotel & Shop Plus 2021 Shanghai, the honors celebrate excellence in restaurant and bar design across the nation. Restaurants opened or revamped between January 1, 2019, and March 15, 2021, were qualified to enter, and fifty leading lights in hospitality design took home either an Appreciation Award or an Award for Excellence, with just one taking the Best of the Year honor. The announcement of the results on April 1 at Hotel & Shop Plus 2021 Shanghai was followed by an insightful panel conversation on contemporary catering culture in China.

志着集团的回归故里之举。 在 2021 年 的 首 届 中 国 餐 饮 空 间 设 计 奖 （CRIDA 2021） 中， 珍 庭 意 外 斩 获 年 度 最 佳 餐饮空间设计大奖。中国餐饮空间设计奖由

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 与 2021 上海国际酒店及 商业空间博览会联合举办，旨在表彰全国空 间设计杰出的餐厅与酒吧，参选餐厅需为自

2019 年 1 月 1 日至 2021 年 3 月 15 日间全新开 looking east

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In conceiving Gem Garden’s interiors as a retreat from urban chaos and to separate the restaurant from its commercial surroundings, Ju Bin, founder and executive design director of Horizontal Design, came up with the idea of giving it a courtyard garden theme. Ju, who was living in New York while designing Gem Garden, had been visiting MOMA and The Met as well as various art galleries for inspiration, and his experiences were translated into Gem Garden interiors through its “aesthetic design and the numerous works of art scattered around the restaurant,” says Ma. “Some would say it’s museum-like.”

The expansive restaurant, with thirteen private rooms each seating between two and fifteen guests, features an open dining area for up to

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幕或翻新的餐厅。排名前五十家的餐厅获颁优 秀餐饮空间设计奖或入围奖，但年度最佳餐饮 空间设计大奖则仅有一位得主。颁奖典礼于

4 月 1 日在上海国际酒店及商业空间博览会举 行。一场聚焦中国当代饮食文化的座谈会亦同 场举行，演讲嘉宾与观众进行了深入的探讨和 交流。 琚宾是水平线设计品牌的创始人兼设计 总监。在他的构想之中，珍庭是一个远离城市 喧嚣的隐居处，而且这间餐厅也要跟周遭的商 业环境区隔开来。于是，他便萌生了把珍庭打

The wood carvings are a direct influence of Chaozhou culture.

COURTESY OF HORIZONTAL DESIGN

木雕是潮州的传统文化。

sixty. Wherever diners are seated, they are guaranteed tranquil views of the natural landscaping. “We gave Mr. Ju specific functional and structural requirements for the restaurant,” says Ma, “but also as much freedom as possible on the design concept. Surprisingly, it all went very smoothly, and we altered almost nothing in his original design.”

When deciding on materials and artwork for Gem Garden’s luxurious spaces, Ju was influenced by the heritage of Chaozhou cuisine. Wood carvings and paintings are complemented by soft-textured furnishings that include embroidery, leather, and straw matting, all “used where guests can physically touch,” notes Ju. The “light” appointments contrast with what Ju likes to call the “heavy” or more modern elements in the

造成一座庭园的想法。在设计珍庭的时候，琚 宾在纽约居住，期间参观了现代艺术博物馆、 大都会艺术博物馆和其他艺廊以找寻灵感。他 将这些经历揉进珍庭的内部空间设计。马英 达说 ： 「珍庭的美学设计和四处可见的艺术品 满是那些经历的痕迹。有些人说这里很像博物 馆。 」 珍庭有十三个包厢，可分别容纳二至十五 人，用餐空间格局开放宽敞，整间餐厅可容纳 六十人。无论宾客坐在什么位置，皆能看见宁 静舒心的自然造设美景。马英达表示 ： 「琚先 looking east

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Thirteen private rooms each seat between two and fifteen guests. 珍庭有十三个包厢，可分别容纳二至十五人。

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space: high ceilings, concrete walls, metallic screens, and stone detailing. “We hope that the simple materials harmonize with the exquisite ones to create a dialogue,” he explains. Although most of the furniture is custom-designed by Horizontal, there are a few carefully selected pieces by local luxury brands like Maxmarko and Camerich.

As the largest project that ZT Hospitality Group has

生知道我们对于餐厅的结构和功能性的要求，但在设计概念上，

completed so far, Gem Garden took almost two years to construct. It officially opened to the public in October 2020 following a soft opening earlier in June. Its sheer scale was one of its most challenging aspects, coupled, of course, with having to perform the work and navigate city building regulations during a global pandemic.

“There was definitely a great degree of satisfaction when we finally completed the restaurant,” says Ma, “but for us, the real challenge had just begun. To provide good food and service is the real task for my team and me, and that job never ends.” For Horizontal Design’s Ju, the project’s goal is also perpetual: “To let guests immerse themselves in beauty as they dine – their pleasure is the best feedback on our design.”

细节装饰。他解释道 ： 「我们希望朴实和精巧的素材能和谐地

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我们尽可能给予他自由创作的空间。让人惊喜的是，一切都进 行得很顺利，我们几乎没有在他的原始设计上作出任何更动。 」 在为珍庭的奢华空间选用材质及艺术品时，琚宾受潮州料 理文化的影响，选用木雕和画作佐以质地柔软的刺绣、皮革及 草席家具。琚宾说 ： 「在宾客能触碰到的地方都选用这些材料。 」 与这些「轻盈」陈设形成对比的是琚宾称为「厚重」的元素， 其中包括现代风格的挑高天花板、混凝土墙、金属隔板和石制 共存于一个空间，形成对话的效果。 」虽然大部分家具都是由 水平线特别客制，但也有几件精选自当地奢华品牌，例如木美 和锐驰。 珍庭是植庭餐饮集团至今规模最大的项目，花了近两年才 是一大挑战，而且集团还要在疫情笼罩全球之际，遵照当地的 建筑规范执行工程。 马英达说 ： 「餐厅终于完工时，我们当然感到心满意足， 但真正的挑战才刚开始，对我和我的团队而言，为宾客提供美 味的料理和高品质的服务才是我们真正的任务，而这项任务是 永不止息的。 」对水平线设计的琚宾而言，这个项目的目标同 样永不止息。他称 ： 「让宾客在用餐时沉浸于美中 ── 宾客的 欢悦就是对设计最好的回馈。 」

COURTESY OF HORIZONTAL DESIGN (5)

完工，在 2020 年 6 月开始试营，于 10 月正式开幕。规模庞大

The museum-like interiors are inspired by visits to The MET and MOMA in New York City. 珍庭的美学设计来自设计师在纽约参观现代 艺术博物馆和大都会艺术博物馆的经历。

DESIGN

侘寂的妙想

wabi-sabi fantasy HE Japanese Restaurant offers authentic cuisine in an exquisite setting that reflects the transient beauty of the natural world.

WABI-SABI IS THE JAPANESE AESTHETIC concept of accepting and

日本的侘寂 美学来自于佛教教义，意指接纳大

自然的不完美和短暂。此一美学概念早已广泛 embracing nature’s imperfection and evanescence. Based on Buddhist 融入日本各种传统美术和工艺当中。万达酒店 teachings, its creative expression is found woven throughout every 设计院为上海万达瑞华酒店的「和」日式料理 form of the country’s traditional fine arts and crafts. Wanda Hotel Design 餐厅进行内部装潢设计时，便采用了这个有趣 Institute has adopted this intriguing idea as a core element in the interior 的概念。 architecture of Shanghai’s new HE Japanese Restaurant at Wanda Reign 宾客在踏入餐厅前，便可感受到其设计 on the Bund. 构想。一般餐厅会在入口大门或 The intent of the restaurant’s design is clear before diners 墙 面 刻 上 餐 厅 名 称， 然 而「 和 」 even step inside. Instead of having a traditional entranceway BY 日式料理餐厅却运用雷射灯，把 with the restaurant’s name signposted clearly on a door or KATE NICHOLSON 餐厅招牌投影在地上。宾客往前 wall, HE is identified only by a logo laser-projected onto the 走， 推 开 厚 实 的 赭 色 金 属 大 门， ground. But it is only when visitors step forward, push open 走到门廊的另一端后，便会发现 the rust-colored heavy metal doors, and enter the corridor 自己置身于充满日本视觉风格的梦幻奇境里。 beyond that they realize they’ve entered a wonderland of Japanese 因有九台激光投影灯和三个互动感应器，走廊 visual themes. With the aid of nine projectors and three interactive sen的墙面上闪烁映照着四季轮替的动态影像 ：春 sors, the walkway walls are adorned with a series of moving images 日的意象是从树上洒落的樱花雨，夏夜萤火虫 depicting the four seasons. Spring is represented by showers of sakura 的微光从竹林内透出，秋天夜空的银河系浩瀚 blossoms floating down from the trees. The fireflies of summer glimmer 壮阔，接着是覆有皑皑白雪的冬日山脉，以及 through tall stands of bamboo. Autumn brings a galaxy-strewn sky that 点上温暖灯光的家。宾客每踏出一步，便能把 is followed by the snow-peaked mountains of winter and a warmly lit 上海生活的繁忙紧凑抛得更远一些。 home. With each step that visitors take, they leave ever-further behind 宾客走过这条缥缈空灵的廊道，便进入 the stresses of frenzied Shanghai. 一个同样以侘寂 概念打造的过渡空间。地板铺 After traversing this ethereal passageway, visitors enter a final transi满水洗黑石材，墙壁则涂上天然原料，包括泥 tion space, again created with wabi-sabi in mind. The floor is transformed 巴、草漆、锈板、老船木及手凿原石等。通道 尽头竖立着一座以金属打造、名为《樱花树》 的雕像。这件作品出自日本艺术家中林丈治之 手，巧妙呈现了日本古城内的河岸边，条列着 一排排树木的美景。上海万达瑞华酒店董事总 「站在这座 经理 Nikolaos Chatzipetros 形容 ： 雕像前，你将被引领进入日本的禅意梦境，仿 佛走在京都的街道上。 」

Before reaching the dining space, visitors to HE must traverse an ethereal corridor replete with artworks and projections inspired by Japan’s four seasons. 宾客要先经过一条以日本四季轮替为灵感设计的空灵廊道，才能进入餐厅。

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COURTESY OF WANDA HOTEL DESIGN INSTITUTE (4)

into black-washed stones and the walls are covered in earthy materials like mud and straw lacquer, weathered slate, upcycled marine wood, and hand-carved stone. At the end of the hallway stands a sculpture entitled Sakura by Japanese artist Takeharu Nakabayashi, who has skillfully crafted metalwork to represent the ancient trees adorning the riversides of Japan’s most historic cities. “In its presence,” says Nikolaos Chatzipetros, managing director at Wanda Reign on the Bund, “you’ll be led into a dream of Japanese Zen and feel as though you’re walking on a street in Kyoto.”

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The homage to nature continues as guests walk into the dining room of fortyseat HE . Botanical patterns highlighting cherry blossoms and pine needles dominate the décor. Such materials as rubble, earthenware, rusty iron, and wooden logs are featured, as well as custom furniture designed by Golden Phoenix. The interior design exploits to advantage spectacular views through the windows of the Huangpu River and a multitude of city lights, including the famous Lujiazui light show, which complements the multi-textured surfaces and metallic, sakura-embellished ceiling.

The menu offers authentic Japanese cuisine made with ingredients imported daily from Japan. Specialties include searing teppanyaki, jet-fresh sashimi, imaginatively reinterpreted sushi, and handmade sweets and snacks. HE also offers a choice of two house sakes, Reign and HE, specially brewed

by Kuncho Sake Brewery and Nippon Shuzō Kabushiki Kaisha. Guests may choose to reserve private rooms or window-facing tables or to watch the master chef at work from the sushi bar made of foraged wood, hand-forged copper, and metal screens with Japanese symbols.

The interior design of HE exploits the spectacular views of the Huangpu River and a multitude of city lights. 「和」日式料理餐厅的室内设计充分利用了 黄浦江的壮丽景色和城市的霓虹灯光。

走进可容纳四十人的餐厅，宾客会再次 感受到向自然致敬的装饰风格。盛开的樱花 和松针为主要的设计图案，并搭配碎石、粗陶、 含锈斑的铁和圆木等材料，以及由家具品牌 金凤凰所制造的客制化家具。窗外黄浦江的 壮丽奇景和交相辉映的城市灯光，包括知名 的陆家嘴灯光秀，为室内设计画龙点睛，将 多层次的设计外观和饰以樱花图案的金属天 COURTESY OF WANDA HOTEL DESIGN INSTITUTE

花板烘托得更美不胜收。 餐厅提供各式道地日式料理，原汁原味 是「和」日式料理餐厅的首要精神。招牌菜 式包括铁板烧、新鲜刺身、创意经典寿司， 以及手工甜品和点心。两种独家清酒「瑞华」 与「和」 ，由日本知名酿酒工厂 Kuncho Sake

Brewery 和 Nippon Shuzō Kabushiki Kaisha 专门酿造。宾客可预约包厢，亦可选择靠窗 席位，或是坐在以原木及黄铜锻造的寿司吧 台边，在缀以日本意象的金属屏风旁，近距 离观赏主厨制作出一道道美味料理。 looking east

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东方之意

LOOKING EAST A renowned designer of custom tableware launches a brand that draws modern inspiration from the traditions of Asia. 当开始构思新餐厅「永」的概念时，主厨郑永 WH E N E X EC U T I V E C H E F V I C K Y C H E N G first began developing 麒对两件事笃定不疑──他要做中式料理，还 the concept for Wing, his new restaurant, he was sure of two things: he 有他得打电话给张聪。 wanted to serve Chinese cuisine, and he needed to call Desmond Chang. 丽固是法国历史悠久的瓷器品牌。作为 Chang is a well-known figure in the gastronomy world, the creative 该品牌的亚洲区创意总监，张聪在美食界声名 director of the French heritage porcelain brand Legle Porcelain. He has 显赫。他曾与多个获奖主厨、米其林星级餐厅、 collaborated with countless award-winning chefs, Michelin-star 五星级酒店合作，完美结合艺术风 restaurants, and five-star hotels to create 格与精致工艺，透过特制餐瓷道出 bespoke collections that seamlessly BY 合作伙伴的料理哲学与品牌故事。 blend artistry and craftsmanship, MAMIE CHEN 除此之外，张聪可谓是促成 tableware that eloquently • 顶级中式料理革新中的先行者。他 interprets and expresses PHOTOGRAPHY BY 共同设计了丽固的「如意」系列餐 his partners’ culinary SAMANTHA SIN 具，这是丽固首度以中菜的美学及 philosophies or brand 实用性作为思考重点，并将其概念化为餐瓷。 stories. 张聪更是「如意宴」的创始人，于中国、香港、 Moreover, Chang has 台湾、日本举办的一连串「如意宴」中，他便 become a leading voice in 是这些互动式体验背后的创意推手。他为中国 inspiring a renaissance 的美食带来新曙光，也与概念创新的主厨们携 in Chinese haute cui手，结合精致的食器呈献现代风格的佳肴。 sine. He codesigned 如今，他将「如意」从丽固中独立出来， Legle’s RUYI col进而创立一个承载亚洲哲学、人文历史与文化 lection, their first 的新品牌。新的「如意」品牌迥异于先前推出 tableware service 的同名系列，跳脱出法国经典瓷器品牌的形象 t o b e co n ce p 及条框。 tualized with

The Jade Dragon collection

by RUYI for Legle RUYI for Legle的 「龙吟云起」系列餐瓷

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张聪说 ： 「经过九年的历练，我相信，是时候创立一个源自东方 the aesthetics and practicalities of Chinese food 哲学思想并受亚洲历史文化启发的新品牌。 『如意』不仅是餐具，也承 as foremost considerations. As the creative mind 载了更深远的意义，更彰显了亚洲的人生智慧。 」他所指的亚洲文化， behind a series of interactive RUYI Gastronomy 涵盖从韩国至印尼、日本至印度各地的文化。 experiences around mainland China, Hong Kong, 张聪期望透过作品，带来以东方视角欣赏世界和看待生活的方式： Taiwan, and Japan, he has cast a revealing light on 重视集体主义而非个人主义，崇尚合作而非竞争，珍视和谐与平衡之 the great regional Chinese cuisines, joining forces 道。他说 ： 「这些东方的价值观很值得分享和推广。我们希望大家欣赏 with innovative chefs to present modern culinary 这些作品的美，随着深入了解，大家得以发掘出作品蕴含的、启迪人 interpretations in the context of sophisticated 心的文化内涵，进而了解『如意』品牌传递的独特哲学。 」 table settings. 「如意」团队以道家的东方哲学为灵感，打造了「无极」系列餐具， And now he has founded and launched RUYI 自然流动的曲线与不规则的形状反映了道家简约、自然、流变的思想。 as a brand independent of Legle, one wholly 「如意」亦深入探究制茶与品茶文化，推出了「香氲」系列茶具，取材 driven by Asian philosophy, heritage, and cul自宋朝至明朝的文化美学，精心打造茶具的外型，让各类茶种层次丰 ture. Unlike the preexisting tableware collection 富的细致芳氲飘香而出。 and dining series of the same name, the new 张聪说 ： 「 『如意』的每个作品都有其溯源，这并不是指这些餐 RUYI brand operates without any expectations or 具由我设计，而是因为每件作品的灵感都取材于历史文化。 constraints associated with a French Embossed flat rim 最重要的是我们一定要在作品上添缀现代化元素，如果只 heritage brand of porcelain. plate and shallow 是做出跟博物馆展品一样的东西，那么这一切都毫无意义。 」 “After nine years,” says Chang, soya dish in aurora 「如意」的设计哲学是为平凡赋予新意，并打造出永恒 “I really believe it’s time to have a from the Hantang 的作品，这与郑永麒总厨经营「永」的烹饪模式不谋而合。 totally new brand based only on collection by RUYI 张聪说 ： 「郑永麒曾受法餐训练，现在在做中菜，人们会以 Eastern philosophy and inspired by 如意「汉唐」系列 放大镜来检视他的成就。因此我告诉他，我会将兼具中式 Asian history and culture. RUYI is not 的天极色龙纹浮雕 餐盘及浅酱油盘 传统与现代风格的餐具交到他手中，帮助他的餐厅站稳阵 just about gastronomy – it’s much 脚，让他更无所畏惧地以现代手法演绎中菜，向中国的根 wider than that. It covers all the Asian 源致敬。 」 aspects of life.” His designation of Asian, he says, 现由「永」餐厅使用的「龙吟云起」系列食器的创作灵感来自张 encompasses all the cultures that extend from 聪友人的一件古瓷器，图纹主轴是清朝的龙，五爪四足、身躯蜿蜒， Korea to Indonesia and from Japan to India. 配以柔和的绿釉手绘，其色彩的不同浓淡表现，源自康熙中期的珐琅 Chang wishes to provide an Eastern per彩技法而创制的新色调。主用餐空间的每位宾客一入座，龙纹延绵的 spective through which to view the world and 三个交叠展示盘便映入眼帘，包厢宾客面前的则是环行于高雅展示盘 approach life: valuing social collectivism over 上的一对青龙。 individualism, advocating cooperation over com张聪说 ： 「 『龙吟云起』的视觉效果相当突出，大家一眼就会认出 petition, and cherishing harmony and balance 那是传统的龙，但它又以非常现代化的方式呈现，这也强化了郑永麒 over linear momentum. “These are Asian values 的理念 ： 『永』是一间中菜餐厅，但不是一般的中菜餐厅，而是以前所 that deserve sharing and promotion,” he says. 未见的方式向传统文化致敬。 」 “We hope that people will appreciate the beauty 「龙吟云起」系列由「如意」品牌设计、 丽固瓷器负责生产， 是「RUYI in the designs. As they look deeper, they can 「每个『RUYI for Legle』 for Legle」系列合作的初试啼声。张聪表示 ： discover the cultural aspects inspiring them and 系列都有其 DNA，每个图纹都清楚呈现其东方哲学、文化或历史根源。 then understand the underlying messages of 对我来说，这次合作是为『如意』在真正推出独立品牌前的试映，让 RUYI.” 大众更加了解「如意」的品牌核心精神－『东方哲思，现代感知』 。 」 In exploring the Eastern philosophy of

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Taoism, the RUYI team created the Infini collection of tableware with its organic curves and free-form shapes that visually express Taoist themes of simplicity, spontaneity, and fluidity. Upon delving into the cultural aspect of tea making and tea appreciation, RUYI released the Aroma tea ware collection, whose carefully thoughtout shapes are inspired by the aesthetics of different dynasties from Song through Ming and are designed to reveal the subtle aromatic complexities of different varieties of tea.

“RUYI should have a reference for everything we do,” says Chang, “not because I, the designer, created it, but because the inspiration is there in history. And, most important, we must add a modern touch – if we just replicated something from a museum, it would be meaningless.”

RUYI’s design philosophy of refreshing the familiar and, in doing so, creating something timeless is echoed by Vicky Cheng’s culinary approach at Wing. “With Vicky being a French-trained chef now serving Chinese cuisine,” says Chang, “he will be scrutinized under a magnifying glass. So I told him I’d send something very traditionally Chinese but very modern at the same time. This could help anchor his restaurant, lending confidence that he is paying respect to the Chinese heritage while bravely approaching the cuisine with his modern ways.”

The Jade Dragon collection now showcased at Wing draws direct inspiration from an antique porcelain piece owned by a friend of Chang’s. The pattern revolves around the five-clawed, four-legged, serpentine form of the Qing dynasty dragon, hand painted in soft greens, varying shades that allude to the then-new range of colors made possible by the fencai enamel technique introduced during the midKanxi period. Each guest seated in the main dining room is greeted by a spectacular place setting of three overlapping show plates with a single dragon undulating across the set, and guests in the private rooms behold pairs of dragons endlessly circling on elegant chargers.

“Jade Dragon is visually very powerful,” says Chang. “People will recognize the traditional dragon form, but it is presented in a very modern way. It reinforces Vicky’s concept that Wing is a Chinese restaurant, but not just any Chinese restaurant, and that it salutes tradition even while putting forward something we’ve never seen before.”

The collection is the first of a handful to be designed by the RUYI team and manufactured by Legle as part of a collaboration called RUYI for Legle. “All the RUYI for Legle collections will have profound DNA, and each pattern will have a clear philosophical, cultural, or historical grounding,” says Chang. “I see this as a preview of the RUYI brand before it really launches and releases its own collections, so that people can easily understand its core spirit: Eastern philosophy, modern sensibility.”

Embossed casserole holders in coral red and hand-gilded gold leaf from the Hantang collection by RUYI 如意「汉唐」系列的 珊瑚红龙纹浮雕砂锅座

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THE WING JOURNEY

g u e s t s 宾至如归

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VICKY CHENG launches his new Chinese restaurant with the art of hospitality uppermost.

looking east

V I C K Y C H E N G M AY W E L L H AV E A PA SS I O N

郑永麒似乎天生就想让每一位客人都

感到宾至如归。他年轻时在速食餐厅工 for making his diners feel welcome encoded in his 作，就已经自愿帮客人倒水和点甜点。 DNA. Even as a youngster working in a fast food res如今，在高级餐饮世界打滚二十年后， taurant, he took it upon himself to refill customers’ 他树立了无懈可击的服务品质，成为了 water and take their dessert orders. Now after two 享誉盛名的待客之道楷模。在 2021 年， decades in fine dining, he has built a sterling reputa他的中法餐厅 VEA 双喜临门，除了名 tion for exemplary hospitality and impeccable service, 列「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」第 16 位之外， culminating in the double honor of the Gin Mare Art 。 也获颁「Gin Mare 待客艺术奖」 of Hospitality Award 2021 and the number 16 ranking 郑永麒的新中式餐厅「永」在近 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2021 for VEA, 期开张。在被问及 VEA 有哪些待客之 his lauded Chinese x French restaurant. 道和服务方式会延续至这间新餐厅时， When asked which hospitality and service ele他的回答铿锵有力 ： 「所有方针都一 ments from VEA he’d carried over to Wing, his recently 样，我还是原来的我，只是身处的环 opened Chinese restaurant, Cheng’s emphatic answer 境不同了。我常说一句话 ： 『我们有三 is “Everything – I’m the same me, just in a different 小时』 。我们有三小时能让宾客开心地 setting. I have a saying – we have three hours. Three 走进来、愉悦地享受用餐过程。我们 hours to make sure that our guests come in happy 有三小时来观察有没有出了什么差错， and stay happy. Three hours to detect if something’s 无论问题出于我们身上、电梯还是天 wrong – whether it was our mistake or the elevator’s 气， 我 们 都 要 进 行 修 正。 or even the weather’s – and make it right 我在 VEA 的心态一直如此， BY again. That’s always been my mentality at 在『永』也不会改变。 」 VEA, and that’s our mentality at Wing.”

MAMIE CHEN 所幸「永」的核心团 • Fortunately, Cheng’s core team and 队 和 许 多 员 工 都 已 于 VEA PHOTOGRAPHY BY many staff at Wing have worked with him 跟 郑 永 麒 合 作 多 年， 在 待 SAMANTHA SIN for many years at VEA and already share 客之道和高水准的服务上， his mindset for hospitality and high stan皆早已建立绝佳的默契，新进员工也 dards of service. As a result, new hires are quickly 因此很快就能融入这个文化氛围。 immersed in the culture. 在用餐时间开始前几小时，团队 In the hours leading up to dinner service, the 会轻快又有效率地把桌巾压得一丝不 team works briskly and efficiently, ensuring that table 苟，做好精确的餐桌摆设，仔细刷除 linens are perfectly pressed, table settings precisely 椅垫上的尘絮。 「永」每日的员工餐前 aligned, and upholstered chairs meticulously brushed. 汇报跟 VEA 一样，会温习当天的宾客 Just as at VEA, Wing’s daily staff briefing includes a 身份，详述客人曾来访时间、所选菜 review of the guests who will be coming, including 品、饮食要求、一般喜好、上次的入 details about dates of prior visits and dishes ordered, 座位置，此外也会留意客人的惯用手 dietary requirements, general preferences, where they sat and whether they are right- or left-handed – an ── 这点对于用筷子吃饭的中餐来说 特别重要。 important consideration when dining with chopsticks. 「永」和 VEA 的宾客档案是共用 Client profiles are shared between the two 的，这对于餐厅营运初期而言，可谓 restaurants, giving Wing a leg up during its launch 如虎添翼。当 VEA 的一位 VIP 客人首 period. When a VIP VEA customer visited Wing for

the first time, the staff had his favored bottles of Coca-Cola on hand and were ready to serve him a chilled glass when he was seated. They even ordered extra cases when the announcement came that the classic container was to be retired. “These small things make a big difference when you’re with us,” says Cheng. “They’re what make you feel right at home.”

次造访「永」时，员工就已准备了他 最喜欢的一款可口可乐，在客人入座 后便可直接为他端上经冰镇的玻璃杯。 当他们得知该款经典瓶身的可乐即将 下架时，甚至还先多订购了几箱。郑 永麒称 ： 「我们都很注重这些小事，正 是这些细节能让客人有宾至如归的感 觉。 」 looking east

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FEATURE

o n 「永」于高飞

t h e

A French-trained chef lets his love affair with classic Chinese cuisine take flight.

BY MAMIE CHEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

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w i n g

Vicky Cheng 郑永麒

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“SOUND ON!” Vicky Cheng advises his followers on recent social media posts that feature his crispy chicken, a smash-hit signature dish within weeks of the opening of Wing, his new Chinese restaurant. The gleaming golden-brown skin crackles audibly at the gentlest finger prod and fractures apart when the acclaimed executive chef tugs the thigh and drumstick from the body. Steam wafts up as he tears off a wafer-thin shard to reveal the tender and juicy meat within.

Such an Instagram-worthy dish serves as appropriate introduction to Cheng’s culinary philosophy at Wing, where modern Chinese food is crafted by the inventive hands of a chef trained in classic French cooking.

“The idea is to take something traditionally Chinese,” he says, “and with utmost respect and without completely changing or bastardizing it, add a new touch, creating something that is unique to us.”

Cheng’s crispy chicken is the culmination of a passion project he pursued while learning the cooking techniques behind traditional Cantonesestyle fried chicken, including the marinating, glazing, air-drying, and frying by means of the continuous ladling of hot oil. The chef admits that over the course of a year and fifty test chickens, many were burned and others failed to reach the desired crispiness.

Then he tried adding a step gleaned from his training and experience with Western cuisine. He found that dry-aging the chicken for five days gave the meat greater tenderness, succulence, and flavor. Even more important, the skin became mature and dry, which made for extraordinarily crispy fried chicken.

“There are a lot of Western, especially French, techniques like this that I use,” says Cheng, “because that’s the way I know how to cook. If you close your eyes and eat the chicken, it’s Chinese. There’s absolutely no French taste to it, like you’d find at VEA,” he says, referring to his Michelinstarred Chinese x French restaurant. “But yet there’s still something special about it.”

「开启音效吧！」近日，郑永麒通过社群媒体 贴文，对他的粉丝发出上述呐喊。这则贴文的 主角是他新开幕的中餐厅「永」的热门招牌菜 －熟成脆皮鸡。闪闪发亮的金褐色鸡皮在手指 的轻柔刺戳下发出啪嚓声，当他扒下鸡腿时， 脆皮马上绽裂。撕下一块薄皮时，蒸气随之飘 散，展露柔嫩多汁的鸡肉。 如此一道值得分享的美馔实实在在地彰 显了郑主厨在「永」的料理哲学。在这里，现 代中餐出自受过经典法餐训练的厨师之手。他 说： 「我们希望向中国传统精髓致以最高的敬 意，并在不完全改变或打破传统的情况下，添 加新的元素，创造出我们独有的巧思。 」 郑主厨的脆皮鸡是他学习制作传统粤式 炸子鸡的成果体现。这道菜式的料理技术包括 腌制、刷酱、风干，还要不断藉由浇淋热油来 煎炸。他承认，在一年之内，试验的鸡只达 五十只，在这个过程中，许多都烧焦了，有的 也未能达到所期待的脆度。 于是，他尝试加入从西餐训练和经验中 习得的步骤，其后发现将鸡肉干燥五天后，会 使肉质变得更加软嫩、多汁且风味绝佳。更重 要的是，表皮经过熟成后变得干燥，使脆皮鸡 格外酥脆。 郑主厨说 ： 「我使用了大量西式，尤其是 法式的技术，因为那是我熟知的做法。如果你 闭上眼睛品尝鸡肉，肯定觉得这是中餐，没 有一点法式风味，就像在 VEA 品尝到的一样。 但事实上，它依然别具巧思。 」VEA 是他另一 间融合中法风味的米其林星级餐厅。

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C R I S P Y A M A D A I T I L E F I S H , L E E K , S OY S A U C E 脆皮甘鲷、韭葱、酱油

郑氏经典鲍鱼酱也是如此，那是一款用 慢炖干鲍、猪肉和鸡肉熬制而成的酱汁。大多 数中式厨师会用玉米淀粉浆来稠化酱汁，而郑 主厨很快就想到，应该选用另一种烹调手法。

For Cheng’s take on the iconic Cantonese steamed fish, he and his team spent a lot of time researching and testing which soy sauce, which herbs, and how much sugar to add. “And then I thought, how could I make my steamed fish different?” His surprising answer is to make the steamed fish crispy. “So it has the exact same flavor as the original dish but with an additional layer. Can you say that I’ve added another technique? Technically, yes. Is it still a Chinese dish? Absolutely.” 郑主厨和团队花了很多时间在经典粤式蒸鱼的做法上，研究和测试应该使用哪 种酱油、哪种香料以及添加多少糖。他说 ： 「我在想如何才能让我的蒸鱼与众不 同？」他意料之外的答案是让蒸鱼变脆。 「味道一样，只是多了一层脆皮。可以 说我加入另一种技巧吗？理论上是的。还算是中式料理吗？肯定是的。 」

其后他选择把高汤浓缩成法式酱汁，加入花胶 碎以增加胶原蛋白，成果就是色香俱全、鲜味 十足的精华以及浓郁、如丝绒一般的口感。 尽管郑主厨因为 VEA 的成功而赢得了无 数赞誉，但他也清楚自己身为一位三十六岁加 拿大华裔、受法餐训练的厨师，若要在本土精 致中餐的菁英界中占有一席之地，尊重中餐背 后的悠久传统至关重要。他认为只有先仔细研 究经典食材和菜肴，以及传统上的运用和准备 方法，才能以自己的方式重新诠释中餐。 事实上，他是在为 VEA 创作中法融合的 菜式时，将对烹饪中菜的兴趣转化成嗜好，虽 looking east

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CO L D S TA R T E R S 头盘 • Zucchini, garlic • South African abalone,

Yunnan chili, bull kelp • Snap peas, house

preserved pork belly • Drunken snail, Hua Diao wine,

Wu Jia Pi wine “I feel that Chinese food sometimes isn’t meant to be individually prepared and plated – I like the sense of sharing.”

Cheng’s tasting menu begins with an assortment of cold starters, served for family-style sharing and featuring seasonal ingredients enlivened by a variety of house blend marinades.

• 西葫芦、香蒜 • 南非鲍鱼 、云南皱皮椒、海茸 • 糖豆、自制腌白肉 • 醉野生花螺、花雕酒、五加皮酒 「我觉得中菜有时并不适合分别准备和摆 盘，我喜欢同享的感觉。 」郑主厨的尝味 菜单始于多样冷盘开胃菜，以家庭分享的 方式呈现，运用各式家常调料来搭配当令 食材。

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THE WING JOURNEY

The same can be said of Cheng’s classic abalone sauce made with slow-cooked dried abalone, pork, and chicken. While most Chinese chefs would thicken it with a flavorless cornstarch slurry – and Cheng is quick to note that he does apply this technique to certain dishes – he chooses to reduce the stock into a French jus , adding fish maw trimmings to increase the collagen level. The result is a flavorful, umami-rich reduction that is full-bodied and velvety on the palate.

Notwithstanding the countless accolades he has earned at VEA, Cheng is well aware of his status as a thirty-six-yearold Chinese-Canadian French-trained chef attempting to make a mark in the rarefied world of fine Chinese gastronomy on its home turf. Honoring the long heritage behind Chinese cuisine is paramount to him and begins with careful study of the classic ingredients and dishes to fully understand how they were traditionally used and prepared. Only then, he feels, can he reinterpret them in his own way.

It was actually in doing research and development for Chinese-influenced dishes at VEA that Cheng’s interest in cooking Chinese food evolved into a consuming pursuit, although he often treated the R&D as a fun process of learning for the sake of learning. He concocted, for example, his own soy sauce simply out of curiosity and then continued to source it as usual from a local supplier. And he learned how to prepare a classic char siu from a shifu but never put it on VEA’s menu.

Likewise, he mastered his crispy chicken dish two years ago at VEA , but something didn’t feel right about carving the breast meat off the bone and then slicing and individually plating it. “I realized that this type of Cantonese-style chicken dish needs to be eaten on the bone,” he says. “I felt that serving it French-style would be disrespectful of the way we eat this traditional dish.”

CRISPY CHICKEN 脆皮鸡

“To get the skin crispy without adding flour or starch, every crispy chicken has to go through a drying process of hanging, fan blowing, and glazing with a sugar-vinegar solution. We add an extra step of putting the chickens in a dry ager for five to seven days. The flesh becomes more tender, the flavor is more concentrated, and most importantly, the skin becomes drier. And that results in very, very crispy chicken with skin that shatters when it’s cut.” 「为了在不加面粉或淀粉的情况下使鸡皮酥脆，每只脆皮鸡都必须经过悬挂、扇 风和表层刷上糖醋酱的干燥过程。我们额外加了一个步骤，将鸡肉放入干式熟 成柜中五到七天，使肉质更嫩，香味更浓，最重要的是使表皮变得更干，最后 就成了非常酥脆的鸡肉，刀切时表皮就会随之碎落。 」

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M A P O - S T Y L E S H I R A KO , TO F U , I N T E S T I N E 麻婆白子、豆腐、猪肠

Cheng’s spicy, tongue-numbing mapo tofu features the unique addition of silken-textured shirako and tender, fatty pig intestine. The house-made spicy mala sauce is beautifully fragrant and flavorful and gets an extra kick from the garnish of fresh Japanese sancho peppers and a generous drizzling of mala chili oil. 郑主厨的麻婆豆腐别出心裁地加入 了丝质的白子和柔软肥嫩的猪肠， 自制的麻辣酱色香味俱全，以新鲜 的日本山椒点缀，再淋上满满的麻 辣油，味道更加浓厚。

然他也经常把研发当作为了学习而学习的有趣过程。例如，

「其中一位厨师提出说可否退而求其次，让鸡皮不那么

他会因为出于好奇而自制酱油，却又照常向当地供应商采购。

脆，就可以更漂亮地呈现于盘中。但我们尽一切所能才做出

他又会向师傅学习如何制作经典叉烧，却从未把它放在 VEA

如此酥脆的鸡皮，若这样做就太可惜了。我们还是换个想法

的菜单上。

吧。 」

同样地，两年前他在 VEA 掌握了制作脆皮鸡的技巧，

边切下鸡肉，让宾客一边观赏一边听着脆皮的破碎声，一块

些不对劲。他说 ： 「我觉得这道粤式鸡肉料理需要带骨吃，

块的腿肉随即热腾腾地服务上桌，剩下的鸡肉则被带回厨房

以法餐形式来呈现就是不尊重这道传统佳肴的享用方式。 」

进行刀切和摆盘。这样的桌边服务也为用餐现场增添高级感。

有趣的是，如何找到最佳的摆盘方式来呈现脆皮鸡是他

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于是他们决定将整只鸡放在订制的手推车上，厨师在桌

但他觉得要将胸肉从骨头上分离、切片后分别摆盘，总是有

郑主厨说 ： 「我不会说我的技术比老字号的中餐厅好，

遇到的一大难题。他想在摆盘中融入中餐的共享精神，然而

也不会说我的菜式比传统的美味，但是来到『永』的宾客都

鸡皮太脆，切的时候会碎掉，重组放在大盘子上时会影响视

期待着非比寻常的体验。当我注入自己的特色或风味时，就

觉效果。这是个值得思考的好问题，但始终需要一个解决方

会创作出与众不同的新事物，让人产生『哇』的感觉。这一

案。

切都让我感到趣味盎然。 」

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C H O P P E D C H I L I F I S H M AW R I C E 剁椒花胶饭

Starting with an impressively sized 2-head dried fish maw that has been aged for twelve years, Cheng stir-fries strips in Iberico pork oil and adds them to his special, house-made fermented chopped chili, then pours it over freshly cooked Niigata Koshihikari rice. The velvety texture of the fish maw and the rich umami of the Iberico pork oil beautifully balance the sweetness, sourness, and spiciness of the chilies. 郑主厨用伊比利亚猪油翻炒陈年十二年的二头干花 胶，再加入他特制的发酵剁椒，之后浇在刚煮熟的 新泻越光米饭上。花胶软糯的口感和伊比利亚猪油 的浓郁鲜味，完美平衡了剁椒的甜、酸和辣。

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9-Y E A R- O L D L I LY B U L B , B I R D ’ S N E S T 九年生百合、燕窝

“This dessert is inspired by Chinese almond dessert soup. It has the same velvety texture, sweet but not too sweet. Instead of almond, I use a special nine-year-old lily bulb that is somewhat new to the Hong Kong market and is very, very good for you. Normal lily bulb cannot be eaten raw, but this is the only one in the world that can be. It’s crisp like an apple with a really pure sweetness.” 「这款甜点的灵感来自于中式杏仁甜汤，它们有着相同的滑顺口感， 甜而不腻。我没有使用杏仁，而是用一种特殊的九年生百合，它在 香港市场不太常见，但非常养生。普通的百合不能生食，但这是世 界上唯一可以生吃的品种，尝起来像苹果一样清脆，带有纯粹的甜 味。 」

S N OW G U M , S U G A R C A N E S O R B E T, O S M A N T H U S 桂花雪胶、甘蔗雪葩、桂花

“Chinese food places an emphasis on being healthy and nourishing.

The two courses where I feel it the most are soups and desserts.

Even though dessert soups are sweetened with sugar, the main contents are very healthy.” Cheng makes a sorbet out of sugar cane juice and tops it with snow swallow flavored with osmanthus sugar.

Snow swallow is a healthful natural ingredient from the Himalayas with an interesting texture similar to that of bird’s nest. 「中式料理注重健康和营养，最让我有此感觉的就是汤品和甜点了。 甜汤虽然加了糖，但主要成分仍是非常健康的。 」郑主厨用甘蔗汁制 作雪葩，并在上面放上桂花糖调制的雪胶。雪胶是来自喜马拉雅山 的天然养生食材，口感特别，类似于燕窝。

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Ironically, Cheng also faced a challenge in finding the best way to plate the crispy chicken at Wing, where he wanted to incorporate the Chinese spirit of communal sharing. The chicken skin was so crispy that it shattered when cut, affecting its visual appeal when reassembled on a large platter. It was a good problem to have, but one that nonetheless required a solution.

“One of the cooks asked if we could make it less crispy so he could present it more beautifully. But that would be a shame after we worked so hard to make it as crispy as possible,” says Cheng.

“No, no, let’s change the way we think.”

Then they hit on presenting the whole chicken on a custommade trolley, lending a sense of heightened grandeur to the occasion. A chef cuts into the chicken tableside, allowing guests to see and hear the shattering of the skin. Pieces of thigh are immediately served piping hot while the remaining chicken is brought back to the kitchen for carving and plating.

“I’m not saying that my techniques are better than timehonored Chinese ones or that my dishes are any better than the originals. But people coming to one of my restaurants are expecting something different,” Cheng says. “When I inject my own style or flavors, I can create something out of the ordinary, something that evokes a feeling of ‘wow!’ And it’s interesting when you find you can do that.”

拉面新意

ramen reimagined Ohte at Four Seasons Hotel Macao invents its own complex and soul-satisfying version of Japan’s favorite comfort food.

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LOOKING EAST

PRESENTED BY FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MACAO

一碗拉面常常会被人视为简餐，认为咕嘟咕嘟地几 口就可以吃完离席，但在「王手」 ，拉面便成为一 种奢华的餐饮体验。在这里，宾客可以一边窝在舒 适的蓝丝绒沙发里，一边细细品味冒着热气的美味 高汤。菜单上还有和牛三文治、饺子、炸鸡伴黑松 露芝麻酱、香辣大虾，以及各式调酒和清酒，任君 选择。 有些人对拉面嗤之以鼻， 认为它「只是一碗汤」 ， 但四季酒店助理行政总厨林俊发充满自信，认为他 炮制的拉面绝不会被如此看待。他说 ： 「我可是花 了十个多月才琢磨出这一碗完美高汤！」 王手，顾名思义就是「国王之手」 。2021 年， 餐厅开幕。在新冠肺炎疫情冲击下，这家餐厅可谓 是出师不利。林总厨称 ： 「光找厨师就是一大挑战。 日本的拉面师傅几乎都自己经营小本生意，不会放 下自己的店来帮我们。后来，好不容易请到一位来 自日本第一家米其林星级拉面餐厅的师傅，却刚好 遇上疫情封关。一两个月后，我们意识到疫情缓解 需时，必须另谋他法，于是我们就决定自创独门拉 面。 」 林总厨生于新加坡，学习的是传统法式烹饪， 对日式料理不太熟悉。他说： 「我完全不知从何下手， 只好把能买到的、跟拉面有关的书都买了，然后一 头栽进书堆里苦读。 」 拉面大约在一个世纪前传入日本，在日本文 化中，算是相对年轻的一员。尽管如此，拉面现已 完全融入日式料理的精粹当中。正因为拉面「资历 尚浅」 ，拉面师傅才还有相当大的挥洒空间。然而， 即使自由度这么大，为了研发出合适的菜谱，林总 厨和他的团队依然举步维艰。林总厨说 ： 「问题在 于这项技术的保密做得太到位，既没有人愿意分享， 也没有人愿意帮忙。 」 汤底是他们遭遇的第一道难题。他回忆道： 「在 我看过的所有食谱中，没有两个作法是一模一样的。 我每一种都尝试过。为了摸索出最正确的配方，整 整十个月，我每个星期煮四次汤底。 」 不过，做对汤底也只是成功了一半。林总厨形 容： 「制作拉面的过程更是看不到尽头。为了做出 完美的面条，我尝试了十二种面粉、六种水，以及 各种想得到的组合。 」

DADO KIT (2)

ORDINARILY, A BOWL OF RAMEN is a fast-food, slurp-and-go type

of meal, but at Ohte, it’s more of a leisurely and luxe dining experience.

Guests are encouraged to sink into the restaurant’s plush blue lounges to savor their steaming bowls of broth. And the menu also offers a Wagyu beef sandwich, dumplings, fried chicken with truffle ketchup, and chili prawns, as well as a selection of crafted cocktails and sake pops.

While ramen is sometimes flippantly dismissed as “just a bowl of soup,” Four Seasons Executive Sous Chef Benjamin Lim is confident this will never be said of his iteration. “I spent more than ten months perfecting this particular bowl of soup!” he says.

皇天不负苦心人，王手拉面独一无二的招牌菜 终于诞生了。他表示 ： 「有人说我们做的不是拉面， 跟日本拉面一点也不像。我是了解这个情况的。因 为我不是日本人，我们的拉面并不传统。这是我们 的独门方法，就这么与别不同。只要食客明白这个 道理，他们肯定会爱上我们的拉面。 」林总厨认为 ： 「我想，我们之所以能创造出这种拉面，是因为我 们没有规则可循，也从不认为只有某种特定方法可 行。机遇是激动人心的。如果画地自限，就会把所 有这些探索机会拒之门外。 」 LOOKING EAST | TK |

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PRESENTED BY FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MACAO

→ A5 Kagoshima Wagyu beef sandwich 鹿儿岛A5和牛三文治 ↓ Executive Sous Chef Benjamin Lim

Ohte, meaning “the hand of the king,” opened in 2021 after a bumpy start due to the impact of COVID-19. “It was a big challenge to find a chef,” says Lim. “Ramen chefs in Japan are usually the owners of small businesses, and they won’t leave. We finally found someone from Japan’s first Michelin-starred ramen restaurant, and then the borders closed. After a month or two, when we realized this was not going away, we had to come up with an alternative plan, and we decided to create our own.”

Born in Singapore and trained in classical French cuisine, Chef Lim had no experience with Japanese food. “I had no idea where to start,” he says. “I bought every book on ramen that I could find and just dove in head first.”

Although ramen is a relatively recent introduction, having been part of Japanese culture for only about a century, it has been fully adopted into the nation’s culinary canon. But because of this newness, there’s still room for ramen chefs to have a certain freedom of expression. Even with this latitude, however, Lim and his team struggled to get the recipe right.

“The problem was that it’s such a well-kept secret – no one wanted to share, no one wanted to help.”

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Their first hurdle was the broth. “Of all the recipes I came across, no two were the same,” he says. “I tried every single one of them – I was cooking soup four times a week for ten months trying to get it right.”

But the broth was only half of the equation. “I went down an absolute rabbit hole of noodle making,” says Lim. “I tried twelve varieties of flour, six types of water, and every possible combination to try and get the perfect noodle.”

And then one day, all their hard work came together to produce Ohte’s unique version of the iconic dish. “People have said that this isn’t like ramen in Japan,” says the chef. “And I know it’s not. It’s not traditional, because I’m not Japanese. This is our way, ours is different from any other, and when people understand that, they absolutely love it.

“I think the reason we were able to create this dish is because we didn’t have any rules and we never believed that there’s just one way of doing something. If you keep yourself in a box, you cut yourself off from exploring all kinds of exciting opportunities.”

DADO KIT (4)

助理行政总厨林俊发

“ I think the reason we were able to create this dish is because we didn’t have any rules and we never believed that there’s just one way of doing something. 我们之所以能创造出这种拉面， 是因为我们没有规则可循， 也从不认为只有某种 特定方法可行。”

Tonkotsu 豚骨汤拉面

PRESENTED BY FORUM

革新传统

advancing tradition A legendary Hong Kong restaurant champions classic Cantonese cuisine with fresh new ways of preparation and presentation.

FORUM RESTAURANT has been an ambassador for fine Cantonese cuisine for more than forty years. Since its opening in 1977, founder Yeung Koon Yat has been cooking for global dignitaries, including former leader of China Deng Xiaoping and former president of France Jacques Chirac. Lavished with international accolades, Forum is currently Hong Kong’s longest-established Chinese restaurant to hold BY three Michelin stars.

DOROTHY SO Despite all the recognition, the traditional Cantonese • food the restaurant represents has not yet reached the PHOTOGRAPHY BY same status on the world stage as its Western or even SAMANTHA SIN Japanese counterparts. “Our mission,” says Executive Director William Yau, “is to raise the appreciation of classic Cantonese cuisine. We want to show the world Cantonese food that reaches the highest levels of sophistication and creativity.”

Forum’s world-famous Ah Yat Abalone is a case in point. Prepared with the finest sun-dried product sourced from the coasts of Japan, this signature dish carries a price tag that starts in the hundreds and can reach five digits. In line with its impressive cost, the dish exemplifies the painstaking skill and effort that go into the best Cantonese cooking. Each select mollusk is soaked for two days, scrubbed clean, and simmered thirty to forty hours with pork and chicken in a clay pot. The stock is then reduced to a rich sauce, and Jinhua ham is added to enhance its umami. Although the entire process takes five to six days, the result – succulent, meaty, and brimming with the flavors of the ocean – is more than worth the wait.

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Deep-fried pork with dried mandarin peel in sweet-and-sour sauce 陈皮咕噜肉

Executive Chef Adam Wong 行政总厨 黄隆滔

PRESENTED BY FORUM

Ah Yat Abalone

Abalone in supreme sauce

阿一鲍鱼

富临鲍鱼 ・红烧干鲍

While abalone is the most glamorous star of the menu, a host of supporting players receive the same level of love and attention and shine as a result. Sweet-andsour pork, for instance, is made with spareribs chosen for leanness, yet with ample marbling. The meat is deep-fried until crisp and coated in a specially prepared sugar mixture that keeps the pork tender and light. Finally, it’s combined with peppers and pineapple that have been tossed until fragrant in a well-heated wok.

Forum’s acclaimed chicken wings are carefully deboned, seasoned, and plumped with various fillings, including glutinous rice and shrimp paste, etc. Then they’re brushed with a solution of maltose and vinegar and hung to dry. Slow cooking over a low flame turns them a glazed, crackling brown.

“Very few people understand the time and labor that go into good Cantonese cooking,” says Forum Executive Chef Adam Wong, who finds this failing particularly perplexing given that the cuisine is among the most complex in the world. Its richness and diversity are reflected in Forum’s menu, which runs to more than two hundred items and encompasses a gamut of techniques, from steaming, double-boiling, braising, and baking to stir-frying, pan-frying, and deep-frying.

“Cantonese food is all about seasonal eating and the fresh, real flavors of food,” says Wong, for whom the menu is a celebration of ingredients at their peak.

The quality of each component becomes paramount. “Our philosophy,” adds Yau, “has always been to use only the best and freshest products. This is something we will

自 1977 年开业以来，富临饭店已担任精致 粤菜大使逾四十年。创办人杨贯一先生曾为 多国元首炮制拿手好菜，中国前主席邓小平 与法国前总统 Jacques Chirac 都曾是座上宾。 如今，享誉国际的富临饭店已是香港历史最 悠久的米其林三星粤菜餐厅。 尽管佳评如潮，餐厅主营的传统粤菜却 未如其他同样享有米其林三星荣誉的西式， 甚至日式餐厅般受到举世推崇。执行董事邱 威廉表示 ： 「我们的任务是引领大众珍视传统 粤菜。我们想向所有人展现最繁复、最创新 的粤式佳肴。 」 最好的例子， 非富临饭店闻名全球的「阿 一鲍鱼」莫属。这道招牌菜采用产自日本海 滨的极品干鲍，价钱从数百港元起跳，甚至 可高达五位数字。这道料理的高昂价格反映 了粤菜烹调技艺所需的苦心孤诣 ：每一只精 选鲍鱼要先浸泡两天，刷洗干净后，在陶锅 里与猪肉和鸡肉煨煮 30 至 40 小时，直到高 汤逐渐浓缩成浓郁的酱汁，再加入金华火腿 looking east

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PRESENTED BY FORUM

增添鲜味。虽然整个过程需费时五至六天，但那鲜 嫩欲滴、肉质厚实、海洋风味饱满的鲍鱼，只让人 觉得等待再久都是值得的。 鲍鱼是最耀眼的明星，但菜单上还有不计其 数同样熠熠生辉、令饕客钟情不已的角色。例如选 用油花均匀分布的精瘦赤肉制成的陈皮咕噜肉，先 用大火将赤肉油炸至酥脆，再裹上一层特制甜酱， 锁住猪肉的柔嫩轻盈，最后在热油滚烫的大锅里放 入甜椒与凤梨，迅速凌空抛飞炒出镬气，酸甜鲜美， 芳香四溢。 另一道富临饭店的热门菜式是百花鹅肝烧酿 鸡翼。经过细心去骨、调味的鸡翼被塞入饱满的糯 米、虾胶、鹅肝等各式馅料，然后在表面刷上一层 混合麦芽糖与醋的腌料，吊挂起来风干，以微火慢 慢烘烤，直到出现晶亮的棕色脆皮。 富临饭店行政总厨黄隆滔表示 ： 「极少人了解 制作道地粤菜要花费多少时间与精力。 」粤菜明明 是世界上最复杂的料理之一，背后所费的功夫却鲜 为人知，令他大惑不解。富临饭店的菜单上有超过 两百种品项，用上了蒸、炖煮、煲烩、烘烤、炒、煎、 Roasted chicken wing stuffed with shrimp paste and foie gras 百花鹅肝烧酿鸡翼

炸等各种技巧，反映出粤菜的博大精深。 黄总厨说 ： 「粤菜吃的是当令食材，还有食材 最新鲜、真实的风味。 」对他而言，菜单上的料理 汇聚了各种食材最当季、真实的美味，因此每项食 材的品质都非常重要。邱董事补充 ： 「只用最优质、

never cut corners on.” Even in the midst of COVID-19, the restaurant refused to compromise its commitment to quality. “Your business collapses as soon as you undermine its values. Whether the economy is good or bad, the food standards at Forum don’t change because our ingredient standards don’t change.”

Also central to the restaurant’s values is culinary innovation. Forum’s boundary-breaking spirit was evident from its early days when Yeung came up with his revolutionary abalone recipe and chose to serve it with knife and fork instead of chopsticks. Since then, the team has continued to find bold new ways to cook, serve, and advance Cantonese food.

“Dishes can evolve and be adapted over time without losing their roots,” says Wong, who rejects the notion of “authentic” Cantonese cuisine and views it as something that is continually changing. While Forum is dedicated to culinary traditions, new elements are constantly being built on this foundation, through, for example, the introduction of foreign ingredients like caviar and truffles or through the restaurant’s imaginative approach to wine.

Recognizing the need to expand beyond Burgundies and Bordeaux, Forum in 2015 hired Jacky Luk, its first in-house sommelier. Luk has helped expand the wine list to four hundred labels, all selected for their compatibility with the restaurant’s galaxy of dishes.

“We want wines paired with our food to have that ‘1 + 1 = 3’ effect,” Luk says. Given the multifarious nature of Cantonese cuisine, finding these matches isn’t always easy, but for Luk, it’s the challenges that make working with this cuisine so interesting and fun.

He points to lobster as an example: “Most people think lobster should go

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最新鲜的食材向来是我们的理念，这方面我们从不 偷工减料。 」即便遭逢新冠肺炎疫情，富临饭店也 不向品质妥协。 「一旦你减损自己事业的价值，事 业就会崩解。不论景气好坏，富临饭店的食物标准 不会改变，因为我们对食材质量的坚持不会改变。 」 除了食材品质，富临饭店的另一核心价值是 创新，这种革新精神从创立初期便可见一斑。当时 杨贯一先生自创独门鲍鱼食谱，并为顾客提供刀叉， 而非筷子。从那时起，厨师团队便不断大胆尝试各 种前所未有的烹调和供餐方法，将提升粤菜至前所 未有的崭新境界。 黄总厨说 ： 「在不忘本的前提下，菜肴可以持 续演化， 与时俱进。 」他不认同所谓的「正宗」粤菜， 反而认为正宗粤菜会随时间而改变。富临饭店致力 于维护料理传统的同时，也持续以传统为本，注入 新意，例如使用鱼子酱、松露等外来食材，或是在 葡萄酒的搭配选择上发挥想像力。 为了增加勃艮第与波尔多以外的佐餐葡萄酒， 富临饭店于 2015 年延揽陆志文先生成为首位侍酒 师，将酒单扩张至四百款酒，全都是精心搭配过餐 厅佳肴后雀屏中选的上好佳酿。陆先生说 ： 「我们 」由 希望餐点搭配佐餐酒能有 1 加 1 等于 3 的效果。 于粤菜样式五花八门，要找到最适合的佐餐酒并不 容易，但对陆先生而言，这样的挑战让他乐在其中。

Chief Sommelier Jacky Luk 首席侍酒师陆志文

PRESENTED BY FORUM

Forum Restaurant at Beijing 富临饭店的北京分店

with a white wine, and sure, if you’re doing steamed lobster, then that would go well with a crisp, refreshing white. But in Cantonese cuisine, we also have cheese-baked lobster, which requires a rounded, full-bodied wine. And then there are dishes like baked lobster in soya sauce, which wouldn’t work with a white at all but would pair well with a light-bodied red with a little sweetness.”

Since joining Forum, Luk has worked with the kitchen to create a growing number of wine dinners. The restaurant has also ramped up its collaborations. As part of its fortieth anniversary celebrations, Forum hosted an “East Meets West” joint dinner with Umberto Bombana of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, its first event to feature an Italian chef and restaurant. The restaurant has carried out similar collaborations with other chefs, restaurants, and establishments, including a four-hands dinner last year with Asian-influenced French restaurant VEA. The events have not only served to attract new guests but have also become a way to further the restaurant’s goal of promoting classic Cantonese cooking.

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他以龙虾为例 ： 「多数人觉得龙虾要配白 酒。如果是清蒸龙虾，脆爽、清新的白酒的 确会很搭，但粤菜里的芝士焗龙虾就需要口 感圆润、酒体饱满的酒。另外豉汁焗龙虾搭 配白酒也完全不适合，味道微甜、酒体轻盈 的红酒反而更顺口。 」 加 入 富 临 饭 店 后， 陆 先 生 与 大 厨 师 们 共同创造出各式各样的葡萄酒晚宴。富临饭 店也开始与更多伙伴展开合作。例如在四十 周 年 庆 时， 富 临 饭 店 与 8½ Otto e Mezzo

Bombana 餐厅的名厨 Umberto Bombana 举 办了一场「搞东搞西」联合晚宴，是首个以 意大利厨师与意大利餐厅为主题的活动。富 临饭店亦持续与其他厨师、餐厅、机构进行 类似合作，去年与炮制「中式法菜」驰名的 法式餐厅 VEA 举办的四手盛宴就是一例。 举办这些活动不仅为了吸引新顾客，也

Forum’s team (clockwise from left): Executive Chef Adam Wong, Chief Sommelier Jacky Luk, Operation and Project Manager CK Poon, Executive Director William Yau and Head Hostess Toby Yau 富临饭店团队(从左到右)：行政总厨黄隆滔，首席侍酒师陆志文，营运及项目经理潘健伟，执行董事邱威廉及礼宾部代表游润陶

“A lot of people used to think Forum was very inaccessible,” says CK Poon, the restaurant’s operations and project manager. “They were scared to try it, worried that it would be too expensive. We’ve come up with these crossovers and different products and menus so people feel comfortable in coming to experience our food.

“It’s also important to find like-minded allies in our mission to help Forum and Cantonese cuisine reach new heights,” Poon adds.

While Cantonese culinary tradition is revered in Mainland China, it has lacked adequate high-end representation, especially outside of Guangdong province. But this summer, Forum is set to open at a new location in Beijing’s renowned Prime Hotel Wangfujing. The concept, similar to that in Hong Kong, aims to bring diners classic Cantonese food prepared with the finest ingredients.

“Cantonese cuisine exists on the mainland, of course, but we want to show an enhanced version that reveals the full breadth of the tradition,” Yau says. “We want all of our employees to think of themselves not just as restaurant staff but as a team that’s working to elevate Cantonese cuisine.”

成为富临饭店推广传统粤菜的方法。营运及 项目经理潘健伟说 ： 「过去很多人觉得富临 饭店高不可攀，不敢尝试，担心会太贵。于 是我们进行转型，设计不同的产品与菜单， 让大众觉得我们平易近人，愿意尝试我们的 餐点。另外找到志同道合的盟友也很重要， 这能帮助富临饭店将粤菜推展至全新高度。 」 虽然粤菜传统在中国备受敬重，却缺乏 适当、高级的表现方式，广东省以外的地方 尤其如此。但今年夏季，富临饭店将在北京 知名饭店华侨大厦盛大开业，秉持跟香港本 店相同的概念，推广以高档食材制备的经典 粤菜。 邱董事说 ： 「当然中国内地已经有粤菜， 但我们想呈现更高的水平，展现粤菜传统的 全貌。我们希望所有员工不只把自己视为餐 厅员工，而是提升粤菜层次的一份子。 」 looking east

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m y s t i c a l 祥瑞之云 秘境醇酿

In the Himalayas, a team of dedicated winemaker s

create the latest ambrosial edition of China’s most celebrated red wine.

BY ANDREW DEMBINA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HAMMONS

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这座田园诗般的敖云酒庄隐身于云南省 HIDDEN IN YUNNAN, in the shade of snow-tipped Himalayan 的香格里拉附近，位于白雪皑皑的喜马 peaks near Shangri-La, are the idyllic vineyards of Ao Yun. Lofty 拉雅山山脚。此处海拔极高，陡峭的山 and remote, rising above the clear waters of the upper Mekong 峰被云雾缭绕，享有来自湄公河上游的纯 River, these cloud-wreathed slopes are where the master 净水源，宛若世外桃源。在这座隐密的葡 winemakers of LVMH cultivate and blend the first French-style 萄庄园，来自酩悦・轩尼诗集团的酿酒大 fine wine produced entirely within China’s vast borders. 师打造全新葡萄酒品牌 – 敖云，首创完全 “The dream was to make a world-class wine in China,” 在中国境内生产的法式「名庄酒」 。 says Maxence Dulou, estate director and mastermind behind 法国酿酒师 Maxence Dulou 负责管理 Ao Yun. And certainly there is something dreamlike about 敖云葡萄庄园。他说 ： 「我的梦想就是在中 the timeless Ao Yun terroir, where harvesting and winemak国酿制出世界等级的葡萄酒。 」敖云酒庄的 ing are still done entirely by hand, respecting the traditions 风土条件确实恍若仙境，这里的时间仿佛 and expertise of the Chinese and Tibetan locals who live 静止。为了遵从当地人悠久的传统与工艺， in the surrounding villages of Adong, Xidang, Sinong, and 敖云庄园葡萄的采摘和葡萄酒的酿造流程 Shuori. Their methods, harmonizing with the natural cycles of 完全由手工完成，这些操作皆由来自居住 the secluded locale, gave Dulou and his team a unique oppor于阿东、西当、斯农及朔日等村落的汉人 tunity to create something truly spectacular. The name Ao 与藏人负责。这些传统酿酒工序依循此秘 Yun means “flying above the clouds,” which is no exaggera境的自然规律而运作，更为 Maxence 及 tion, considering that the vineyards are two to three thousand 其团队带来独一无二的机会，得以打造 meters above sea level. It was on this elevated terrain that 出非凡珍酿。 「敖云」二字意指「祥瑞之 Dulou and the late winemaker Tony Jordan found the perfect 云」 ，此命名可谓实至名归。敖云葡萄 location to make a truly distinguished wine. 庄园位于超过海拔两千米的高原，这也 Twenty-eight hectares have been dedicated to the creation 正是 Maxence 与已故澳洲酿酒师 Tony of the vintages of Shangri-La. “Our location has more diversity Jordan 当 初 选 择 此 地 开 辟 葡 萄 园 的 原 of hills, valleys, exposure, and soils than any other place,” says 因，他们认为这里是酿造「名庄酒」的 Dulou. “In the end, we turn all of that into something unique and 完美地点。 complex, following the concept of Bordeaux wines, where the 打造出香格里拉传奇佳酿的敖云 blend of the final wine is greater than the sum of its compo葡 萄 园 占 地 约 28 公 顷。Maxence 指 nents.” This can be seen in the wide diversity of grapes that are 出： 「这里高山峡谷罗布，无论是日照 grown, from classic cultivars like cabernet franc and petit verdot, 天数或土壤条件都比其他地方更具多样 among the six types that are used in the red blends of Bordeaux, 性。我们将这些元素转化为独特、具有 to shiraz, one of the stars of the Rhône region in southern 丰富层次的美酒，并结合法国波尔多葡 France. United in each bottle of Ao Yun, the nuanced palate pro萄酒的概念，让最后产出的佳酿不仅仅 files of these different grape varieties intermingle to create a 是所有原料的总和，更是这些成分的转型 layered vintage of great character.

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To allow for such grape diversity and to take full advantage of the fertile terrain and unique climate, Dulou and the local Chinese winemakers went to great lengths to transform the region into a haven for the creation of Ao Yun. Soil and vineyard management, irrigation and infrastructure all had to be built from the ground up. The dedicated team led by Dulou spent four years putting everything in place before production could begin in earnest. And today, the local winemakers in the vineyards continue to devote themselves tirelessly to the task. “In our case,” says Dulou, “we’re working thirty-five hundred hours per hectare per year. This is a lot, and unique in the world of wine – four times what would be spent in a good vineyard in Bordeaux, where the best properties spend about eight hundred hours.”

When Dulou first reached the lofty terroirs of the province, he discovered that much work would be required to equal the facilities of the chateaux wineries of France. “We had to request the government to help us build roads between the villages,” he says. “Electricity wasn’t stable,

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升级。 」从敖云酒庄所采用的葡萄品种多样性 突显出这个理念。酒庄选用知名的经典品种 、小维多（Petit 如品丽珠（Cabernet Franc）

Verdot），这两者皆属于法国波尔多葡萄酒的 六个法定品种，此外还有源自于法国罗讷河 。多个品种混酿 谷的明星品种西拉（shiraz） 在一瓶敖云葡萄酒中，不同品种的多样性和 口感相互融合，创造出丰富层次感与上等品 质。 为了栽种为数众多的葡萄品种，以及 充分运用当地丰富多样的地势与独特气候，

Maxence 与当地酿酒业者费了一番功夫，建 立起土壤与葡萄园管理方式、灌溉系统、设 置 各 式 设 施 等 等， 才 真 正 让 此 处 的 环 境 转 化为能孕育出独特年份酒的摇篮。一切从无

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so we had to work on that too. The costs of building a winery and even of growing the grapes were much higher in our location with the number of people needed to work by hand across a lot of small separate terroirs.”

And negotiating and integrating with the local winemakers and laborers provided their own share of headaches. “The first year,” Dulou recalls, “we harvested in another winery, and it was very complicated. For example, they gave us a room for storing the barrels, and it was twenty-eight degrees in May, so we had to pack them in a tank all summer, because they couldn’t provide us a proper room.”

But the perseverance and determination of Dulou and his team have at last borne their fruit in the acclaimed vintages of Ao Yun. Richness and aroma, acidity and tension are words that define the Ao Yun experience. The dense flavor and exquisite palate are carefully nurtured by the Chinese winemaking team to deliver an exceptional result. To the man who has been overseeing LVMH’s project from the very start, a

到有，前后耗费了四年，才成功酿造出第一 批敖云葡萄酒。直至今日，当地的酿酒工人 仍是每日努力不懈、全心投入葡萄园生产。 「我们平均每年每公顷需投 Maxence 坦言 ： 入 3500 个工时来耕作，这么长的工时在全 球葡萄酒产业中非常罕见，是法国波尔多产 地平均工时的四倍。波尔多产区中等级最高 的葡萄园每年所费的工时大约是 800 个小 时。 」 当 Maxence 初次带领团队抵达此高原 时，发现这里几乎是百废待举，前置工作远 远多于法国产区的庄园。他说 ： 「当时我们 要向政府申请，在村落之间辟设新道路，也 必须想办法适应供应不稳定的电力。要在这 里 建 一 座 酿 酒 厂 实 在 所 费 不 赀， 需 要 许 多 looking east

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native of Bordeaux and a seasoned French winemaker, the experience of savoring Ao Yun is best described as “a paradox of freshness and ripeness on the nose, and, in the mouth, a paradox between freshness and concentration.”

Since the first of its vintages, the 2013 edition, was released, Ao Yun has attained an almost mystical status as China’s first indigenous luxury red wine, termed the “Grand Cru of the Himalayas” by critics.

World-recognized wine authorities, including Britain’s Jancis Robinson, Hong Kongbased Jeannie Cho Lee, and James Suckling, have given consistently stellar marks to each of the winery’s vintages. While all bear the stamp of its unique multi-altitude style and all exhibit tannins, noses, and flavors of equal quality and sophistication, each vintage of Ao Yun has a markedly different character.

In March of this year, the latest edition, Ao Yun 2017, was released. It represents another step in the ongoing pursuit of perfection on the part of Dulou and his dedicated Chinese team. “We’re trying to better understand these different terroirs and their impact on the vintage with experimentation we’ve done every year since 2013,” he says.

“Our goal is always to improve the quality of Ao Yun in terms of complexity, elegance, aging potential, and longevity. For now, our extraordinary fine wine blend continues to impress.”

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工人在小型且分散的农地进行人力栽种，所 以光是种植葡萄的成本就极为高昂。 」除此 之外，与当地酿酒业者、工人的协调沟通与 整合也是一大工程。回顾初来乍到的情景， 「 第 一 年， 我 们 在 另 一 个 酿 酒 Maxence 称 ： 厂进行采收，过程真是非常的复杂。比如说， 他们无法提供适合贮放酒桶的空间，但那时 是五月，气温高达 28 度，所以整个夏天我们 都必须把酒桶放在一个大水缸里。 」虽然面对 重重考验，Maxence 跟团队成员并从未却步， 他们的坚持不懈总算取得丰硕成果，在云巅 创造出闻名全球的顶级敖云佳酿。 敖 云 葡 萄 酒 口 感 丰 富、 香 气 浓 郁， 具 有 绝 佳 酸 度 与 张 力， 风 味 厚 重 且 口 感 极 为 细致，这是当地酿酒团队精心管理的成果。

Maxence 来自法国波尔多产区，酿酒经验非 常丰富，从一开始便负责管理酩悦・轩尼诗 集团旗下酒庄。他形容敖云葡萄酒极具矛盾 气质，充满年轻香气又带有熟成韵味，入口 之后，风味既清新又不失浓郁。

2013 年，敖云推出首款年份佳酿，即第 一款中国产的高端葡萄酒。自此，敖云便迅 速崛起，拥有难以撼动的尊荣地位。敖云获 国内外美酒评论家誉为「喜马拉雅的特级庄

(Grand Cru) 酒」。对于敖云所有的年份酒，世 界闻名的英国酒评家 Jancis Robinson、旅居 香港的李志延、美国 James Suckling 皆一致 给予极高评价。敖云每一款年份酒虽然都同 样具有绝高品质与复杂的单宁、香气、风味， 但是特质都截然不同，体现敖云庄园各葡萄 产地独特的海拔差异。 今 年 三 月， 敖 云 推 出 最 新 款 的 2017 年 份酒，代表这支中国酿酒团队在追寻完美的 旅途上又跨出一大步。谈及团队将云南省推 进世界高端葡萄酒版图当中的惊人成就时， 「从 2013 年开始，我们不断 Maxence 直言 ： 进行各种试验，想要更了解当地不同的风土 对各款年份酒的影响，目标是持续改善品质， 提升复杂度、优雅度、熟成与陈年能力。现在， 我们推出的这款杰出作品将持续在各界引起 惊叹。 」 looking east

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The Vintages of Ao Yun 2013 细致柔和，酒体丰满，这款年份酒 展现 2000 年第一批种植葡萄的最佳

色泽。风味浓郁，入口后香气在舌 尖缭绕不散，怡人的酸度格外清爽， 尾韵则是相当细致柔和的单宁。

2014 More richly concentrated and complex than the 2013, this cabernet sauvignon-forward blend presents a bounteous palate that delights and enfolds the taste buds, the result of longer maturing in both oak barrels and earthenware jars. The generous flavor and nose are given special prominence by an elegant balance of minerality and acidity that fully realize the potential of this outstanding blend.

相较于 2013 年版本，这款主要采用 赤霞珠酿制的年份酒在橡木桶与陶 罐中的成熟期更长，赋予它更丰富 的层次感和浓郁丰满的酒体。酒液 入口时，馥郁醇厚的风味席卷整个 味蕾，矿物感与酸度达致优雅的平 衡，使浓郁的风味与香气更为突出。

2015 Ripeness and sweetness characterize this elegant blend that features a slightly different ratio of cabernet sauvignon at 79 percent. The warmth and wealth of its flavors are underlined by rounded tannins, and robust notes of black and red fruit tease the palate with an almost peppery sensation. A long finish, delicately punctuated by mineral notes, rounds things off.

敖云 2015 年份酒的特色是更突出的 熟成度与甜味，混酿比例略有不同， 采用 79% 赤霞珠葡萄，柔滑浓郁的 单宁成分使风味温暖而丰富，同时带 有强烈的黑色与红色水果香气。入口 时，浓烈的辛香充斥口腔，随之而来 是悠长而略带矿物气息的余韵。

2016 A landmark vintage from the Himalayan vineyards, this full-bodied blend is characterized by the introduction of shiraz and petit verdot into the mix, adding greater complexity to an already sophisticated wine. The signature intensity is matched with uniquely subtle tannins, and a sense of fruity concentration complements the elegance of the palate and the notably refreshing finish.

此款年份酒是这座喜马拉雅庄园的 里程碑，除了赤霞珠、品丽珠，更 加 入 西 拉 和 小 维 多 葡 萄 酿 制 而 成， 增添复杂性和优雅特质。招牌的强 烈 香 气 与 独 特 的 柔 和 单 宁 味 碰 撞， 绽放果实香气，突显其优雅气息与 清新余韵。

2017

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2017 年份酒的酿制加入了梅洛葡萄， 让这款独特优雅的年份酒更添丰富 层次。深邃宝石红色泽以及鲜明的 香气，散发新鲜黑莓气息，单宁味 极致圆滑，矿物质气息的余韵悠长 萦绕，更突显敖云年份酒系列的酒 体 结 构。 相 较 于 先 前 几 款 年 份 酒，

2017 年版本的口感充满清新的夏日 气息。

COURTESY OF AO YUN

Merlot is introduced, adding yet another layer to this refined blend. Deep red and singularly aromatic, this unique edition of Ao Yun brings notes of fresh blackberries to its luxuriously soft tannin. The signature structure of this family of vintages is further enhanced by 2017’s minerality and exceptionally long finish. More than in previous years, this blend conveys a delightfully young and summery sensation in the tasting.

敖云酒庄共推出五款年份酒，各款年份酒特色各异，但风味皆独特

精 华。 混 酿 90% 赤 霞 珠 与 10% 的 品丽珠葡萄，呈现深邃的紫红宝石

而有力，具有卓越的复杂口感与单宁，获得国际好评。

Silky and full-bodied, the debut vintage of Ao Yun represents the very best of the original vines that were planted in 2000, comprised of 90 percent cabernet sauvignon and 10 percent cabernet franc.

Complemented by an intense shade of deep purpleruby, the concentrated flavor and lasting finish of this first vintage dance along the tongue, with a pleasant acidity lightening the palate and a notably soft tannin completing the experience.

WINE

Ao Yun has produced five editions, all of which have garnered worldwide praise for their varied and powerful expressions and for their remarkable tannins and complex palates. § 敖云酒庄共推出五款年份酒，各款年份酒

特色各异，但风味皆独特而有力，具有卓越的复杂口感与单宁，获得国际好评。

Ao Yun has had five editions, including its debut vintage, the 2013. All have garnered praise worldwide for their varied yet uniquely powerful expressions, and for the excellence of their complex palates and tannins. With the 2017, the latest of the Ao Yun vintages, the Shangri-la winery, under the direction of Maxence Dulou, has added another impressive blend to its celebrated line of truly Chinese fine wine. 或

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TASTING NOTES

Poached egg with chanterelle mushroom 鸡油菌温泉蛋

五行哲学

FIVEFOLD INSPIRATION Chef Jayson Tang returns to the fundamentals of Chinese culinary wisdom to discover that eating well can also mean eating healthy.

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在新派中菜当道的世代，假若主厨为求标 IN AN ERA WHEN MANY CHINESE CHEFS are continually looking for 新，一知半解地追逐中国文化以外的餐饮潮 the next new angle, Jayson Tang has gone back to his roots. At the helm of 流，只让邓家濠忧虑终致不伦不类。因此， one-Michelin-star Man Ho Chinese Restaurant at JW Marriott Hotel Hong 身为万豪金殿行政总厨的他开始重新思索 Kong, the executive Chinese chef was worried that chasing new international 粤菜的根源。 「我希望把被遗忘的传统找出 trends with little feel for them would leave his cooking nondescript. Instead, 来，再次发扬。 」 he began to reinvestigate the foundations of Cantonese cuisine. “I was look在邓师傅眼中，不论中西，厨师都是 ing to unearth forgotten traditions and breathe new life into them,” he says. 用食材诠释季节的使者， 「夏天应吃清暑的 As Tang sees it, both Western and Eastern chefs use ingredients to 瓜果，冬天则吃温补的羊腩、蛇羹暖身。 」 interpret and reflect the changing seasons. “In summer we eat melons and 只是他观察到，历史条件赋予香港成为转口 fruits to disperse inner heat,” he says, “while in winter we eat warming 港，获得南北食材易如反掌，但也让本地食 foods, such as lamb belly or snake stew.” 客忽略当刻季节的脉动。 「不时不吃，让身 Hong Kong, thanks to its location and history, says Tang, has evolved to 体状态回复『平衡』状态，正正是《易经》 become a vibrant port city where every imaginable ingredient is available. 所强调的『阴阳』 。 」他继指出，五行饮食法 The downside is that locals tend to overlook the varying characteristics of 正是阴阳概念的延伸。 「我们每 the seasons. “Avoiding foods that are not in season can help the 天都吃的食材，拥有的不同颜 body return to balance,” he says. “This is exactly what the Yi Jing 色（白／金、绿、黑、红及棕） ， speaks of with its emphasis on yin and yang.”

BY 寓意藏有不同的五行（金、木、 Tang stresses that a diet based on the five elements of traJOYCE KWOK 水、 火、 土 ） 属 性， 能 分 别滋 ditional Chinese medicine – metal, wood, water, fire, and earth – is 养不同的内脏（肺、肝、肾、心、 a direct extension of the idea of balance between yin and yang. 脾） ，当中不但讲分量『均匀』 ， “The food we eat every day,” he says, “comes in different colors – 也要顾及进食『顺序』 ，宜先排毒、后进补。 」 white, green, black, red, yellow – that correspond to the five elements, which 当第一道「五色头盘」端来时，他便有条不 in turn nourish their respective organs, the lungs, liver, kidneys, heart, and 紊地在旁解说着，指导客人可先吃绿色的五 spleen. Portions should be balanced evenly among the elements, but there is 青汁及海带竹笙卷，唤醒夏日纳闷的舌头， also a correct order when eating – first detoxify, then nourish.” 也为肝脏排毒。 Tang spent months in the study of The Yellow Emperor’s Classic of 如此概念，是邓师傅接掌酒店中菜厅 Internal Medicine to better understand the therapeutic properties of vari行政总厨一职、翻阅昔日宴席纪录时发现， ous foods. And he also turned to Western medicine for further confirmation 像极为他「拨乱反正」的使命指路。 before selecting foods that were naturally harmonious. “This is my due dili「但这可不是靠翻阅网上资料或古书就 gence as a professional chef,” he says. And of his extended quest to perfect 能成事。 」每当提到食材的属性，邓师傅的 his Nourishing Five Elements Epicurean Menu at Man Ho, he remarks, “Behind 腔调总变得格外谨慎。曾有好几个月的晚 one evening, three years of effort.” 上，他独个埋首《黄帝内经》 ，了解不同食 The exceptional evening menu begins with five appetizers keyed to 材的药性，佐以西方医学证明，挑选属性平 the five colors. Chef Tang instructs diners to first drink the Green Power Juice 和的食材，逐步建立一个食材资料库。 「我 and eat the Chilled Bamboo Pith Stuffed with Seaweed to clear the summer 认为这是厨师的职业道德，毕竟客人体质不 heat from the tongue and remove toxins from the liver. 一，总不能让他们吃罢感到不舒服。 」 The five main courses include a yellow-themed dish to foster health 经邓师傅的巧手演绎，才知道养生与 of the spleen and digestive system, Pan-Fried Amadai Fillet with Sweet 美味并非天生对立，就像主菜「玉凝金鳞」 ， Corn Sauce. Irresistibly fragrant and crispy-skinned, the Japanese fish is 煎香后的日本赤甘鲷皮脆肉香 ；至于能养胃 accompanied by Taiwanese sweet potatoes, said to nourish stomach energy, 的台湾番薯、南瓜和玉米，则被悄悄打成 and pumpkin and corn that have been beaten into a velvety sauce to add 香滑的酱汁，为鱼增鲜提味。 「把食物做得 another layer of flavor and freshness. 好吃是不足够的，还需带动食客好好思考。 」 By reinventing Chinese cuisine in the most traditional way possible, 一双儿女刚出生，邓师傅的岁月历练应足以 Tang has created a menu that has proved a smashing success at Man Ho. “It’s 让他比同龄世故的目光，成为五行宴的最佳 not enough to cook food that’s delicious,” he says. “You also need to inspire 指挥家。 diners to reflect on what they are eating.”

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@ 2020 WHAT THE FOX STUDIO ALL RIGHTS RESERVED (4 + PREVIOUS PAGE)

TASTING NOTES

↑ Chilled chicken with Chinese wine, chilled tomato with crab meat & cucumber, and marinated osmanthus with fresh yam 五加皮雪凤凰、云叠柿 红、桂花鲜淮山棵 → Pan-fried Amadai fillet with sweet corn sauce 玉凝金鳞 ← Braised brown rice with abalone 鲍鱼烩五谷米 → Double-boiled conch soup and red ginseng with Kanto sea cucumber 红蔘响螺炖关东辽参

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江南韵味

delicate balance Celebrity chef Jereme Leung brings the light and elegant flavors of Jiangnan cuisine to Macau.

TASTING NOTES

COURTESY OF SANDS CHINA LTD. (4)

AT ITS SIGNATURE RESTAURANT Jiang Nan by Jereme Leung, The Venetian Macao has taken the local dining scene to an exciting new level by partnering with a master chef to showcase the authentic Chinese regional dishes of Shanghai, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang.

“For months,” says Leung, “I’d been persuading Sands China Ltd. to open a restaurant featuring Jiangnan food rather than simply Shanghainese. This utterly unique cuisine is about a delicate balance of lighter flavors that harmonize beautifully with the seasons and the scenery.” The celebrated chef, who is half Hong Konger and half Singaporean, starred as a judge on MasterChef China and currently operates more than ten successful Chinese restaurants worldwide.

The plush modern interiors of Jiang Nan by Jereme Leung, featuring custom-made tableware, artwork, and floor-to-ceiling partitions in an antique wooden birdcage design, provide a perfect setting for the sophisticated cuisine. The main dining area creates an immediate impression of glamour and vintage luxury. With seating for more than one hundred guests, the restaurant has four private dining rooms that can be merged into two larger function spaces. An extensive collection of bespoke artwork and vintage Art Deco jukeboxes from a bygone era in Shanghai

澳门威尼斯人的醉江南餐厅由名厨梁子庚领 军，呈献道地的上海、江苏与浙江料理，为澳 门的餐饮界注入一抹全新且雅致的风采。 梁子庚主厨说 ： 「我与金沙中国谈了好几 个月，想要说服他们与其只是开设上海菜馆， 倒不如打造一家主打江南料理的餐厅。江南料 理独树一格，特色就是将季节和景色互相结合， 交织出各式清新风味，达致优美的平衡。 」享 誉盛名的梁主厨是香港人，亦有一半的新加坡 血统，曾担任中国版《顶级厨师》的评审。在 全世界，他正成功经营着十多间中餐厅。 醉江南的内部空间设计既奢华又具现代 感，餐具、艺术展品皆经精心特制，古意盎然 的木制鸟笼状镂空隔版从天花板一路延伸至地 面，为精致的菜肴铺设出绝佳的用餐环境。餐 厅共可容纳一百余位宾客，主用餐空间复古奢 华，另设有四个私人包厢，这四个包厢还可以 分别合并成两个更宽敞的空间。大量订制艺术 展品与老上海风格的复古点唱机装点着餐厅内

”Shanghai” style red braised pork

Lotus-shaped fish dumplings in supreme consommé

“Huang Qiao“ oven-baked sesame and pork pastry

上海红烧肉

年年有余－清汤鱼茸莲蓬

江苏黄桥烧饼

← Rain-flower pebble-shaped, glutinous rice dumpling soup 雨花石汤圆 looking east

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TASTING NOTES

The main dining area creates an immediate impression of glamour and vintage luxury. 复古奢华的主用餐空间。

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部，融汇中式旧元素与西方文化设计的石库 门刻划出上海丰富多彩的传统内涵。 谈及如何改编经典菜式，梁主厨称 ： 「江 南地区的料理非常精致，我们会运用技巧及 经验，为绿竹笋这种简单的食材赋予诗情画 意。我每次改造料理前，都会做很多资料搜 集，了解它背后的历史。我也会敦促自己把 菜式做得更美味、更有趣味，让客人都能接受。 我将一万六千多本食谱全部转成电子版并上 传到云端，这样我就随时都能翻阅参考。 」 在处理最为简朴的食物时，梁主厨亦同 样花尽心思，连中式主食蒸米饭也不例外。 他解释 ： 「一间餐厅要成功，只有顶级食材、 奢华的空间设计和周到的服务是不够的，最 重要的是对于最微小的细节也能一丝不苟。 」 在醉江南，侍者会直接用推车将饭锅送到桌 边，在宾客面前将米饭舀入碗中，让米饭释 放舒心的香气。每一碗饭在端上桌时，都处 于最精准的温度。 醉江南最受欢迎的经典分享开胃菜有舟 山极品蜇头、 香麻炸脆鳝和醉江南无菌生腌虾。 梁主厨也相当推荐，认为这几道菜可作为搭配 调酒的下酒小食。他说： 「醉江南是中式餐厅， 所以我们鼓励大家分享食物。每个人坐在圆 桌前，都可以选择自己喜欢的食物，重点就 是要以享用中式料理的方式来用餐。 」

COURTESY OF SANDS CHINA LTD. (2)

highlight the city’s rich heritage of shikumens that blend characteristics of traditional Chinese components with Western cultural elements and design.

“In Jiangnan,” says Leung, “our food is exquisitely refined. Through skill and experience, we can elevate a simple ingredient like green bamboo shoots to extraordinary, photogenic heights.” In tackling the transformation of classic dishes, says Leung, “I always do a lot of research and understand the history before renovating a recipe, and I challenge myself to see if the outcome is more delicious and interesting and whether it’s acceptable to diners. I have more than sixteen thousand cookbooks in my library, all of them digitalized and uploaded to the cloud so that I can access them whenever I want.”

The chef’s painstaking approach extends to the simplest of foods, including the Chinese staple of steamed white rice. “A successful restaurant is not only about the premium ingredients or a luxurious interior and solicitous service,” he says. “The most important thing is meticulous attention to the smallest detail.” At Jiang Nan, rice cookers are wheeled on trolleys to diners’ tables so that every order can be served at precisely the right temperature. The steaming grains are spooned into bowls by servers in front of guests, releasing their soothingly sweet aroma.

Popular classic sharing appetizers at Jiang Nan by Jereme Leung include Marinated Zhoushan Jellyfish Salad, Crispy Eel Strips with Roasted Sesame Seeds, and Jiang Nan Style Marinated Raw Shrimps, all of which are also among the chef’s recommended cocktail nibbles. “This is a Chinese restaurant,” says Leung, “so we encourage people to share. At a communal table, everyone can pick what they like, and it’s all about dining in the way that Chinese food should be enjoyed.”

Steamed white pomfret fish with Tai Diao wine 太雕蒸鲳鱼

PRESENTED BY LANSON

陈酿上新

perfect for pairing Champagne Lanson unveils exclusive Le Black Réserve at The St. Regis Hong Kong.

“HONG KONG IS AMAZING!” says Olivier Elzer, Culinary Director at

「香港真是个好地方。这里什么都有！」米其林

二星法国餐厅 L’Envol 的餐饮总监 Olivier Elzer L’Envol since its opening nearly three years ago. “You can get anything 说道。 you want here.” 事实上，到了今年五月底，香港人就真的 Well, almost anything. The city’s lovers of aged Champagnes 什么都有了。因为这座城市的陈年香槟酒客， couldn’t get certain back vintages from Champagne Lanson, for example, 终于盼到了 Lanson 兰颂香槟和香港瑞吉酒店 until the end of May, when Lanson and The St. Regis unveiled their new 的全新合作，得以一尝珍贵的陈年 collaboration. 佳酿。 With over two hundred sixty years of history, Lanson BY 拥有超过二百六十年历史的兰 is one of the oldest of Champagne houses. Its cellars hold a LUCY JENKINS 颂 酒 庄 是 最 古 老 的 香 槟 酒 庄 之 一， fabulous collection of vintages dating back to 1904, a wine • 酒 窖 内 收 藏 了 大 量 可 追 溯 至 1904 library that vividly illustrates Lanson’s savoir faire in the art PHOTOGRAPHY BY 年的陈年珍品，犹如一座生动地展 of crafting fine Champagnes. Each year, only a handful of SAMANTHA SIN 示香槟混酿艺术的博物馆。兰颂酒 bottles, mostly magnums, from the Lanson Vintage Collection 庄每年只会出售数瓶年份酒，且多为 1.5 公升 are put up for sale. 瓶。 In a world-first for the Reims-based estate, The St. Regis Hong 兰颂酒庄首度与香港瑞吉酒店的米其林 Kong’s two-Michelin-star French restaurant, L’Envol, and its one二星法国餐厅 L’Envol 和米其林一星粤菜餐厅 Michelin-star Cantonese restaurant, Rùn, are showcasing rare vintages, 「润」合作，展示酒庄珍藏的 1971 年至 1975 年 from 1971 to 1975, from the Lanson wine library, as well as just-launched 珍品年份酒，以及最新推出的兰颂珍藏黑标香 Le Black Réserve. Created by Lanson Winemaker Hervé Dantan, this new 槟。兰颂珍藏黑标香槟由兰颂总酿酒师 Hervé cuvée is in line with Lanson’s flagship Le Black Label Brut, retaining the Dantan 酿造，保留了酒庄旗舰酒款兰颂黑标香 same freshness and vitality, but with a more gastronomic dimension,

thanks to a higher percentage of Grands and Premiers crus , more reserve wines, and a minimum aging of five years in the cellars.

The St. Regis Hong Kong has seen meteoric success since its opening, with L’Envol receiving its second Michelin star in two years under the leadership of Chef Elzer, previously at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and then at Seasons, his own venture. Since joining The St. Regis, he has set up L’Envol’s kitchen and its new team entirely from scratch, relying on his connections and twelve years of experience in Hong Kong.

Regarding the effects of the pandemic, Elzer remarks, “When we had to close, we had no choice but to take the positives from the situation. It meant we could properly plan our menu to suit the new landscape of dining. We got rid of our à la carte menu, for example, since a lot of people were coming in for business lunches and then when they came for dinner, they wanted a proper dining experience. So we’ve launched our Champagne and Caviar Menu, our Signature Menu, and our Decouverte Menu, offering them more choices and more of a unique journey.

“And what better way to celebrate being open again than with

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槟的清爽和活力，但更高比例的特级村及一级 村混酿和储存酒，以及至少在酒窖陈酿五年， 使其更加适合与美食配搭。 香港瑞吉酒店自开业以来便非常成功，其 中 L’Envol 餐厅在 Olivier 的领导下，两年内获 得了第二颗米其林星星。Olivier 曾在 L’Atelier

de Joël Robuchon 餐厅任职，之后再创立自己 的法国餐厅 Seasons。加入瑞吉酒店后，他依 靠自身人脉以及于香港深耕十二年的经验，从 零开始，打造了 L’Envol 的餐饮体验，并建立 了优秀的团队。 被问到新冠肺炎疫情的影响，Olivier 说 ： 「当时餐厅必须暂停营业，我们别无选择，只能 用积极的态度面对，好好规划新菜单，来适应 餐饮业的新挑战。比如，很多顾客是来享用商 务午餐的，而当他们来享用晚餐时，则期待一 场高品质的用餐体验。因此，我们取消了单点 菜单，并推出香槟和鱼子酱菜单、招牌菜单及

Brittany blue lobster with smoked trout blanc-manger and puffed tomato crisp 布列塔尼蓝龙虾配烟熏 鳟鱼奶冻和番茄脆片

PRESENTED BY LANSON

“From the beginning, we’ve worked together to make sure the Champagne and dish pairings are absolutely perfect.”

我们一直齐心协力，确保香槟 和菜肴的搭配臻至完美。” Tristan Pommier

our exciting new Lanson collaboration,” says Restaurant Director and Chief Sommelier Tristan Pommier. “Lanson’s are true gastronomic Champagnes that match our diners’ expectations for dinner and their expectations of us.

“Running a fine-dining restaurant is all about partnerships, and Hervé Dantan [Lanson Winemaker], Maxime Boureille [Lanson Asia Brand Ambassador], Olivier, and I are all friends. From the beginning, we’ve worked together to make sure the Champagne and dish pairings are absolutely perfect.”

Throughout June, customers at L’Envol can savor the chef’s curated Brittany blue lobster with smoked trout blanc-manger and puffed tomato crisp. At Rùn, Chef Hung Chi-Kwong offers an appetizer trio in full harmony with Le Black Réserve: deep-fried diced Wagyu beef puff and black pepper sauce, deep-fried mantis shrimp with salted egg, and marinated jellyfish with sesame oil and vinegar.

For him, pairings are all about texture. “The freshness and lightness of Lanson Champagne means that it is so versatile with Cantonese food,” he said. “It matches with the richness and spice of the Wagyu beef puff and black pepper sauce, as well as the savory flavors of the salted egg with the mantis shrimp.”

For Pommier, the complexity and aging potential of Lanson Champagnes are compelling reasons he feels they are ideal to pair with the two restaurants’ distinct cuisines: “We’re so lucky to have access to very specific back vintages from the Lanson Vintage Collection, and with our customers, who are already very knowledgeable about wines, we can afford to be adventurous. The complexity and freshness are amazing for Champagnes that are over forty years old. And with the new cuvée, Le Black Réserve, the vibrancy and fruit notes provide structure, which means it blends harmoniously with the contrasting flavors and textures of the different dishes.”

Hervé Dantan describes Le Black Réserve as uniting the four pillars of Lanson Champagne. “It’s blended from a meticulous selection of the finest crus of Champagne and rare reserve wines from a collection of Grands and

Premiers crus , with a longer aging in the cellars, allowing its natural fruit flavors to shine through, and vinified with a very small percentage of the blend through malolactic fermentation to express all the qualities of our Lanson style with an accomplished dimension of fullness, complexity and freshness.”

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← Chef of Rùn Hung Chi-Kwong, Culinary Director at L’Envol Olivier Elzer and Chief Sommelier Tristan Pommier 「润」餐厅主厨洪志光，L’Envol 餐饮总监Olivier Elzer及首席 侍酒师Tristan Pommier

主厨精选菜单，为宾客创造更多的选择和独特的享受。 」 「与兰颂 餐厅总监兼首席侍酒师 Tristan Pommier 说 ： 的新合作令人兴奋。庆祝恢复营业的话，还有其他比这更 好的方式吗？兰颂香槟细致优雅，正符合宾客对美好晚餐 以及对餐厅的期待。 」 「经营一家高级餐厅，就是要与伙伴建 Tristan 续说 ： 立良好的关系。Olivier、兰颂的首席酿酒师 Hervé Dantan、 亚洲品牌经理 Maxime Boureille 和我，都是很好的朋友。 我们一直齐心协力，确保香槟和菜肴的搭配臻至完美。 」 整个六月，L’Envol 的宾客可以品尝到主厨精心设计的 布列塔尼蓝龙虾配烟熏鳟鱼奶冻和番茄脆片。在「润」餐厅， 主厨洪志光创作了与兰颂珍藏黑标香槟完美配搭的开胃菜 三重奏，包括酥炸和牛馅饼佐黑椒汁，酥炸濑尿虾配咸蛋， 以及腌制海蜇佐芝麻油和醋。对洪主厨来说，餐酒配搭最 重要的是质感方面的融合 ： 「兰颂香槟明亮清新，与粤菜相 当匹配。和牛馅饼及黑椒汁的香浓，咸蛋及濑尿虾的风味， 都与它相辅相成。 」 对 Tristan 来说，兰颂香槟的繁复口感和陈年潜力，是 ←

与两间餐厅的独特料理搭配的要素。 「我们很幸运能够获得

Appetizer trio of deep-fried diced Wagyu beef puff and black pepper sauce, deep-fried mantis shrimp with salted egg, and marinated jellyfish with sesame oil and vinegar

特定的年份香槟，而且我们餐厅的顾客对葡萄酒已经非常

开胃菜三重奏－炸和牛馅饼佐 黑胡椒汁，炸濑尿虾与咸蛋， 以及腌制海蜇佐芝麻油和醋

了解，因此我们在选择上可以更大胆一点。超过四十年历 史的香槟的复杂度和清新度总是相当惊人。兰颂珍藏黑标 香槟的清新活力感及果香，提供了稳定的结构，让它在和 不同料理的对比味道和口感之下，仍能和谐地交互在一起。 」

Hervé Dantan 认为兰颂珍藏黑标香槟联合了兰颂香槟 的四大支柱。 「此款酒以酒庄中最好的特级村和一级村的稀 有储存酒混合而成，在酒窖中长期陈酿，呈现出最自然的 果味，而且在酿造过程中并没有采用乳酸菌发酵。兰颂珍 藏黑标香槟体现出兰颂酒品风格的所有特质，充分表现出 既饱满丰富又清新的口感。 」 looking east

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PRESENTED BY DANIEL SORLUT

美蚝飨乐

perfect pleasures Daniel Sorlut Oysters bring the sea’s most sumptuous flavor experience to chefs and connoisseurs around the world.

Daniel Sorlut 蚝 庄 的 产 品 总 监 Nicolas 「其实享用生蚝，尤其是我 Chaubard 建议道 ： Chaubard, director of production for Daniel Sorlut Oysters, “especially not 们的生蚝时，不该整颗吞下。它们的肉质鲜美， ours. They have beautiful flesh, and you need to bite them to release all 经过咬嚼，所有美味才能被释放出来。我们应 of their delicious flavor. Chewing an oyster blends the salinity of the sea该细细咀嚼，将海水的咸味与蚝肉的鲜嫩多汁 water inside with the sweet succulence of the meat.” 融合在一起。 」 Daniel Sorlut Oysters raises four different varieties on its Daniel Sorlut 蚝 庄 在 法 国 滨 farm in France’s Charente-Maritime region. Their most famous 海夏朗德地区的蚝场养殖了四种 variety, La Spéciale Daniel Sorlut, is renowned for exceptionally BY 不同的生蚝，其中最具人气的品 firm and creamy flesh and has become a favored ingredient of LUCY MORGAN 种是 La Spéciale Daniel Sorlut。这 some of the world’s most prestigious chefs. 款生蚝以扎实又滑顺的肉质闻名， In 1930, when founder Georges Sorlut dug his first oyster 是不少国际知名主厨的御用食材。 pond by hand, he couldn’t have known that nine decades later his meticulously cultivated product would be enjoyed by oyster devotees 1930 年，创始人 Georges Sorlut 亲手掘 出他的第一座蚝池。他根本没想到九十年后， the world over. Driven by a desire to raise only the finest of oysters and 全世界的生蚝迷都对他精心培育的产品引颈以 to share them with others, Sorlut upheld values that remain the force 待。只养殖顶级生蚝并分享给大众是 Georges behind what has become a thriving global business. 的愿望，也是他坚持的价值观，这推动其事业 The small fishing hut where Georges dug his first pond has evolved 迈向全球，蓬勃发展。 into a large, modern, efficient saltwater park close to the Atlantic coast at the mouth of the river Charente. The plots where the oysters are raised, Georges 挖的第一座养殖池如今已发展 为一个既现代又高效、比邻夏朗德河口及大西 known as claires, are fed by the tides and connected by a network of 洋海岸的大型咸水园区。养殖生蚝的区块被称 channels. The shallow, calm waters create an optimal environment for ，有潮汐的补给并连接着航道网络， 为「claires」 plankton to grow and nourish the prized mollusks. Farming methods may 浅而平静的水域创造了适合浮游生物生长的极 have modernized, but the Sorlut rigor and devotion to raising a superior 佳环境，滋养着珍贵的生蚝。虽说养殖的方法 product remain the same.

COURTESY OF DANIEL SORLUT

“ Y O U S H O U L D N ’ T S WA L LO W oysters whole,” advises Nicolas

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PRESENTED BY DANIEL SORLUT

“Oyster meat is light and doesn’t sit heavily on the stomach. They make good party food – even if you eat a dozen, you’ll still feel like dancing.”

蚝肉清淡易消化，吃了不会 对肠胃造成负担，是派对食 物的绝佳选择。即使吃了一打 生蚝，还是可以翩翩起舞。” Nicolas Chaubard

已经实现现代化了，但 Sorlut 家族的初心不 变，依然坚守对生产优质产品的严谨态度和 奉献精神。 现 在 的 业 务 经 理 Laura Sorlut 以 将 公 司广受欢迎的产品出口到世界各地为使命， 包括需求持续增长的大中华地区。受惠于 现 代 冷 藏 技 术 和 准 确 的 物 流 运 输，Daniel

Sorlut 的生蚝可以在收获后的四十八小时内 「与大中华区 到达香港或上海。Nicolas 说 ： 的客户合作非常愉快，他们都是熟稔于食材 和海鲜知识的专家，在生蚝方面更是专精。 」 生蚝是一种神秘的生物，既奢华又富 含营养，同时吸引着饕客和养生人士。生

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蚝以浮游生物为食物，从而蕴含丰富的维生 素和矿物质，是吸收这两种营养素的最佳来 源。它的蛋白质含量高，却是低热量的食材， 享用生蚝可说是毫无罪恶感的终极享受。 「 生 蚝 又 称 为 壮 阳 药， 人 Nicolas 说 ： 们认为它对生育能力很有助益。蚝肉中的锌 和碘对于男性睾酮的生成和精子的品质十分 重要。蚝肉清淡易消化，吃了不会对肠胃造 成负担，是派对食物的绝佳选择。即使吃了 一打生蚝，还是可以翩翩起舞。 」 对 于 關 注 气 候 变 迁 议 题 的 人 士 而 言， 生蚝是大自然的捕碳者之一，会使用二氧化 碳制造蚝壳并释放氧气来净化空气。Nicolas 说： 「生蚝就像树木一样，对环境有益。 」 月份名称的英文单词有不少包括「r」 这个字母，人们以前普遍认为不应在这些月 份吃生蚝。同时由于夏季月份是生蚝繁殖的 季节，人们也会避开。进入繁殖期，蚝肉的 质地和味道会变得较为逊色。在过去的二十 年里，生蚝养殖技术不斷进步，现在全年都 「我们养殖了 有生蚝出产。Nicolas 解释说 ： 一种不育的生蚝，它不会繁殖，并有一组额

COURTESY OF DANIEL SORLUT (2)

Manager Laura Sorlut, who now heads the business, has made it her mission to share the company’s sought-after products by exporting them around the world, including to Greater China, where demand continues to grow. Modern refrigeration and precise logistics mean that Daniel Sorlut Oysters can be in Hong Kong or Shanghai within forty-eight hours of harvesting. “It’s wonderful to work with our clients in Greater China,” says Chaubard. “What you must understand is that they’re experts who have extensive knowledge of food and seafood and are very, very discerning when it comes to oysters.”

Mysterious creatures, oysters are both indulgently luxurious and richly nutritious, appealing equally to hedonists and the health conscious. Their plankton diet is full of vitamins and minerals, making oysters an excellent source of both. The ultimate guilt-free pleasure, they are packed with protein but are low in calories.

“Oysters are known as aphrodisiacs,” says Chaubard, “and are believed to be beneficial for fertility. The levels of zinc and iodine in oyster flesh are important for testosterone production and sperm quality in men. And oyster meat is light and doesn’t sit heavily on the stomach. They make good party food – even if you eat a dozen, you’ll still feel like dancing.”

For the climate-change-conscious, oysters are one of nature’s carbon captors, using CO2 in making their shells and releasing oxygen to purify the air. “Like trees,” says Chaubard, “oysters are good for the environment.”

Chef Adolfo Muñoz

PRESENTED BY DANIEL SORLUT

Farming takes place within the 3,000-hectare Marennes Oléron delta. 位于Marennes Oléron地区的生蚝养殖场面积超过三千公顷。

A common belief about oysters is that they should not be eaten in months whose names do not contain an “r.” They were traditionally avoided during warm summer months because that time of year is their reproductive season. When oysters breed, their flesh changes texture and flavor, making them less palatable. But in the last twenty years, advances in oyster farming techniques have meant that oysters can now be enjoyed all year round. “We raise a type of sterile oyster, which doesn’t reproduce,” explains Chaubard. “It has an extra set of chromosomes and is known as a ‘triploid’ oyster. Regular oysters are known as ‘diploid’ oysters.

We raise the two types in separate zones and we sell only triploid oysters during the summer months.”

Another misconception, according to Chaubard, is that oysters should only be consumed raw. In fact, their versatility, nutritious qualities, and irresistible flavor and texture make them perfect ingredients for cooked dishes, both straightforward and complex. “Our company works with some of the world’s top chefs,” he says, “and they offer oysters to their guests cooked as well as raw. They can be cooked in a pan or in the oven, prepared simply or combined with a delicious sauce. There are so many possibilities.”

Novices, Chaubard advises, should first try oysters raw to become

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外的染色体，被称为『三倍体』生蚝，一般的 生蚝则是『二倍体』 。我们在不同的区域养殖 这两种类型，在夏季只会销售三倍体生蚝。 」

Nicolas 认为「生蚝只能生食」也是另一 种误解。事实上，生蚝的多样性、营养价值及 诱人的鲜味和口感使其成为熟食中的完美食 材，可以简易料理亦可以花样烹调。他说： 「我 们与一些世界顶级主厨合作，他们为宾客准备 熟蚝或生蚝，在平底锅或烤箱中烹煮，简单地

←

COURTESY OF DANIEL SORLUT (3)

The oysters can arrive in Hong Kong within 48 hours 生蚝可以在收获后的四十八小时内

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到达香港

Laura Sorlut

acquainted with and accustomed to their flavor and texture, and then begin experimenting with various cooking techniques. He also suggests that newcomers start with smaller oysters (they are size-graded 1 to 5, with 1 the largest) before working up to those more generously proportioned.

The ultimate purpose of eating oysters, Chaubard believes, is to bring pure enjoyment: “If I just want to satisfy my hunger, I’ll have a sandwich. But if I want to have a surpassingly pleasurable experience, I always choose oysters.”

料理或融合美味酱汁，有千变万化的做法。 」他 建议新手应该先尝试生食蚝肉，熟悉并习惯它们 的味道和肉质，进而尝试各种烹调技术下的熟蚝。 生蚝大小分级为 1 到 5，1 为最大。他还提议，从 较小的生蚝开始享用，再去探索更大颗的蚝肉。

Nicolas 认为，吃生蚝的最终目的是带来纯 粹的享受。他称 ： 「如果只是为了填饱肚子，我 会吃三明治 ；但如果想有一段非常愉快的美食体 验，我一定会选择享用生蚝。 」 looking east

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MOVERS & SHAKERS

瑰丽出众

daringly different Mark Hammons interviews Ivan Suardi, Group Vice President – Food & Beverage of Rosewood Hotel Group, about his bold approach to creating imaginative dining spaces.

Could you explain Rosewood Hotel Group’s philosophy with respect to excellence in F&B? What are the most important factors?

瑰丽酒店集团的哲学糅合在对餐饮界的卓

The vision of CEO of Rosewood Hotel Group Sonia Cheng is always to create something unique. So being innovative, doing things out of the box, and being different are very important to us. The customer’s journey is especially important. The experience of dining out is not just about good food – it’s the ambience, the atmosphere, the food, the service.

If the service is wrong or the atmosphere is off or the pricing is out of whack, people won’t come back.

We are known as F&B industry leaders for creating spaces that are not typical hotel restaurants, because in hotel restaurants, sometimes people feel the atmosphere is stiff and boring or the food is not so good.

We wanted something very different. We managed to do this in London and also in Beijing. When we first opened there, we created a hotpot restaurant and people were confused – it was very unusual, but the design and the restaurant concepts are actually very local. It was not overdesigned, and no one really expected that from a five-star company.

These things eventually made us stand out. At the same time, it has made us aware that we need to raise the bar each time we open.

哪些重要的因素？

越追求中。请问这是如何呈现的？当中有 瑰丽酒店集团首席行政总裁郑志雯总是 希望独树一帜，因此对我们来说，坚持创新、 打破传统、与别不同都是很重要的。宾客的体 验尤其关键。用餐的重点不只美食，氛围、整 体环境、食物和服务都很重要。如果服务或环 境出了差错，或定价有问题，客人就不会再度 光临。 我们处于餐饮界领先地位的其中一个原 因，就是我们善于打造非一般的酒店餐厅空间。 酒店的餐厅有时会让人觉得古板无趣，食物也 不太可口。我们想打造与众不同的餐饮空间。 这个模式在伦敦和北京也都实行得很成功。北 京瑰丽刚开张时，开了一间火锅餐厅，有些人 为此感到困惑。在酒店里开火锅餐厅确实不太 设计也不会太花哨，大家都没预料到五星级酒 店集团会塑造出这样一间餐厅。这些特点让我

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You mentioned creating a vibe where people can relax. What insight do you have about this intangible quality? What advice would you give me if I were to open a restaurant?

们脱颖而出，同时也让我们体会到，每一间新

First, what concept do you want? How casual or how sophisticated?

Personally, I don’t think fine-dining restaurants have great vibes – it’s a setting where everything is calm and quiet. I remember being in a finedining place in a hotel. We were having fun with a group of friends and we were not loud, but we were told to “relax.” That’s not creating a vibe.

您提及要打造让宾客可以放松的氛围。您

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店都得把标准提得更高。

如何看待这种无形的特质？若我想开餐厅， 您会给我什么建议？ 首 先 你 要 思 考 实 行 的 概 念， 要 多 随 性， 或是多精致？我个人并不觉得高级餐厅的氛围

COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD HOTELS & RESORTS

寻常，但我们的空间设计和餐厅概念都很道地，

Ivan Suardi

MOVERS & SHAKERS

If you want to open a restaurant with a buzz, you need lighting, music, and noise. It’s like a recipe with lots of different ingredients. How the staff behaves when they come to the table, how they treat you. People create vibes. When you have a restaurant full of the right people, that creates the vibe.

When I plan a restaurant, I have the vision of the people in my head already, like in a movie – how will they move, what are they going to do in the space, how is it going to work? Some people can do this, some can’t.

When a new property is in development, how do you approach the goal of making sure the final F&B profile will express the essence of the locale?

With Rosewood Phuket, the restaurant concept started with recreating a fishermen’s village in Thailand. We had the crazy idea to buy two old houses from the north of Thailand and we used the timber to rebuild them as a restaurant.

In my mind, I wanted it to look like there were a couple of shacks that had always been there and that we had turned them into a restaurant.

It was ambitious, but we were very successful. After the opening, I had an argument with Sonia and she said, “What happens when it rains?” and I said, “We close.” If you go to a fishermen’s village and it rains, what do you do? But as an investor, this worried her. It was a risk, but it paid off and the restaurant is super successful and everyone in the marketplace talks about it. How many owners would agree with that?

COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD HOTELS & RESORTS (2)

What kind of talent are you looking for and how do you find the right people?

We have been lucky, because our reputation of doing good and unusual stuff in F&B means that lots of people knock on our door.

So, we do our research – does anyone know the person? Have they worked with them before? Have they eaten at their restaurant? This is important. There has to be chemistry, with me and with the team, with the director of culinary and everybody else.

Chefs can really make a place or destroy a place. Front of house, general manager is less of an issue. The food part is 50 percent or more of how guests talk about you.

If I am hiring a chef, I don’t want to see him shuffling paper – I have other people to shuffle paper. I don’t care about a chef’s administrative skills. They need to deliver the food, the concept. I need them to be good with customers,

很棒，那种氛围就只是很安静。我记得有一次去一间酒店的 高级餐厅，我们一群朋友聊得很开心，并没有很大声，但就 被告知要轻声细语一些，这种氛围就不怎么样。 如果你想开一间有人气的餐厅，就会需要灯光、音乐 和声响。这就像一道有许多不同食材的食谱。工作人员到桌 边时如何表现以及对待客人的态度都会有影响。氛围是人创 造出来的，如果一间餐厅里都是对的人，就能创造出对的氛 围。 我在设想餐厅的架构时，脑海中都会先想好我要怎样 的人，就像拍摄电影一样，想像他们如何移动、在那个空间 会做什么、如何让整体顺利运行。有些人有能力做到，但有 些人就办不到。 looking east

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MOVERS & SHAKERS

“Sometimes the most difficult project can become the most unique – when things are difficult, you push yourself to do better.

最困难的项目有时能达成独一无二的结果。 人遇到困难时，就会敦促自己做得更好。” so you feel special when a chef brings you his dishes. Some chefs are labeled as prima donnas, but they are special because what they do is special. You have to give them some freedom. Any artist can be a bit of a crazy person.

在开发新空间时，您会如何实践目标，让最终打造出的餐饮空间呈现 当地的精髓？ 普吉瑰丽酒店的餐厅概念是想仿造一个泰国渔村。 我们的构想很疯狂。 我们买下了泰国北方的两间老房子，再以旧木材重新改建为餐厅。我想打 造出原先就在那里的简陋木屋被改造成餐厅的感觉。 那是个很有野心的计划，但很成功。在开幕之后，我跟郑志雯起了争 执。她说 ： 「要是下雨怎么办？」我答 ： 「那就关门。 」如果你去拜访一个

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What’s the most challenging part of your job?

渔村时下雨了，你会怎么做？她的角色是投资者，所以她会担心。我们冒

The challenges for me personally and for the brand are that we have created a number of restaurants and bars that have become great. But you have to keep coming up with something different each time. However, challenges are good. Sometimes the most difficult project can become the most unique – when things are difficult, you push yourself to do better.

When we open a hotel, I look at the location, the project, the facility plan and imagine how many experiences we can create. I don’t pick and choose something – an idea comes to me and we go for it. We try not to copy or repeat concepts – we don’t want to become a cliché.

论我们的餐厅。有多少老板会同意这种做法？

How has Rosewood been expanding over the last few years, and what is it working toward?

您的工作中，哪个部分最有挑战性？

We are working on a lot of projects and the uptake has been really good. Last year was one of the best for signing deals, despite COVID. Our development team is doing a fantastic job. The brand is established, people talk about it. This is some good power.

One market where I want to do something special is the USA. In the US, restaurants

达成独一无二的结果。人遇到困难时，就会敦促自己做得更好。

in hotels can be very boring. We need to find something that makes a statement. We are looking hard in LA and possibly Texas. Let’s see, but the US is one place I want to crack.

了，相当有势力，大家也都会讨论我们的品牌。

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了很大的风险，但最后很值得，餐厅经营得非常成功，业界所有人都在谈

您会找寻怎样的人才？您是如何找到适合的人选？ 我们很幸运，因为我们名声很不错，提供的餐饮也很特别，很多人会 因此找上门来。 我们接着会调查，有谁认识这个人吗？他们有一起工作过吗？有谁去 他们的餐厅吃过饭？这些很重要，因为来这里工作的人，一定要跟我、团队、 厨艺总监和其他人能擦出火花。 一间餐厅，成也主厨，败也主厨。前场和总经理的影响反而较小。宾 客如何看待一间餐厅，百分之五十以上都取决于料理的品质。 我不希望所雇用的主厨一直在处理文书， 我有其他人可以做这些工作。 我不在乎主厨的行政能力如何，最重要的是他们做得出好的料理、带出好 的概念。他们也得擅长面对宾客，这样客人来吃饭时看到主厨为他们端上 料理，就会觉得很有特色。有些主厨被认为很自负，但他们确实很特殊， 因为他们做的事就是特殊的。艺术家都会有点疯狂，所以要给他们一些自 由挥洒的空间。

我个人和这个品牌最主要的挑战就是我们已经打造了一些很棒的餐厅 和酒吧，但又要不断推陈出新。然而，挑战是好的，最困难的项目有时能

们尽量不模仿、也不重复任何概念，因为我们不想沦为窠臼。

瑰丽过去这几年的拓展情况如何？正在朝怎样的目标迈进？ 我们有很多项目在进行，成果都很不错。去年虽然疫情肆虐，但签约 状况可算是历年来数一数二的。我们的开发团队表现出色，品牌建立起来 我比较想在美国的市场做一些特别的计划。美国酒店里的餐厅比较乏 味，我们得找到能表述特色的方式。我们目前在洛杉矶找寻机会，可能也 会去德州，之后计划会逐渐明朗，但美国是我想拓展的地方。

COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD HOTELS & RESORTS

要开酒店时，我会考量地点、项目和设施的规划，想像我们能创造怎 样的体验。我不是去选择某个东西，而是把灵光一现的想法化为现实。我

PRESENTED BY THE EXECUTIVE CENTRE

共享「商务舱」

service first The Executive Centre (TEC), a leader in premium flexible workspace solutions, continues to meet the ever-changing needs of businesses across Asia.

「共享办公室到底归于房地产行业还是服务业？」 “DOES SHARED OFFICE SPACE belong to the real estate industry 德事大中华区董事总经理丁杰给出了她的答案 ： or the service industry?” asks Jane Ding, TEC’s group managing director 「我们一直坚定地认为我们是做服务的。 」 of the Greater China region. “For our part, we’ve always believed that what we offer is service first and foremost.”

1994 年，德事在香港创立，经历了 SARS、 金融风暴及新冠疫情等挑战。市场变化快，它却 Founded in Hong Kong in 1994, The Executive Centre has man从未自乱阵脚。它们不觊觎一夜暴富，只想灵活 aged to keep its balance through turbulent times and such challenges 地稳扎稳打，继续服务好「商务舱」 as SARS, the 2007 financial crisis, and COVID-19. In a marketBY 里每一位客人。 place in continual flux, the key has been to stay adaptable, LIU WEI to be prepared for the unexpected, and to remain commit2021 年 4 月， 德 事 入 选 由《 金 • 融时报》发布的 2021 年亚太地区高 ted to providing superior service to its vast business-based PHOTOGRAPHY 增长企业 500 强榜单。在过去五年里， clientele.

BY DAVE MARCO 其业务足迹翻了一倍，设在 14 个国 In April of this year, TEC was listed by the Financial 家和地区的 32 个城市的商务中心由 Times as one of 500 high-growth companies for 2021. In the past five years alone, it has expanded from 76 to 150 centers in 76 个增至超过 150 个。处理「企业对企业」的生 意，相比提升客户的运营效率，切实帮助用户解 32 cities across 14 countries. As part of its B2B approach, it has found 决某个实际需求往往更有价值。 better value in offering customers concrete solutions to specific prob丁杰说道 ： 「我们的 CEO 有个很贴切的比喻， lems than in trying to improve operational efficiency across the board. 大家出行坐飞机，有人选择经济舱，有人坐头等 “Our CEO has an apt analogy comparing the marketplace to seat-

ing on a plane,” says Ding. “Some people choose economy, others choose first class. We’ve positioned ourselves to serve those who choose business class. We’re not aiming for scale but instead, do our utmost to service this particular customer base with the software and hardware they need.”

While many think of an office as just four walls and a couple of desks, TEC sees it differently. Knowing that its clients are movers and shakers in their respective fields, the question, says Ding, has always been “how we can empower these clients further.” In finding the answers, the company has worked for many years with such prestigious partners as office designer Fiona Hardie ID, British furniture maker Timothy Oulton, smart-office solutions provider 9AM, and US contemporary furniture brand Herman Miller.

“In servicing high-end customers,” Ding notes, “we’ve found they have changing needs and requirements. Standardization and

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舱，我们把自己定位成『商务舱』 。规模不大，但 会从硬件、软件上尽心服务好这群客户。 」 很多人以为办公室就是「四面墙及几套桌 椅」 ，德事可不这么认为，它深知服务的对象都处 在「金字塔塔尖」 ， 「如何从硬件、软件更好地赋 能这群客户」是丁杰一直在思考的问题。设计工 作室 Fiona Hardie ID、英国家居制造商 Timothy

Oulton、探索智能办公的 9AM，以及这两年「大 火」的美国现代家居品牌 Herman Miller，很多年 前就是德事的合作伙伴。 有了办公空间的美学定调，并不意味着德事 的空间从此一成不变。丁杰说道 ： 「我们服务高端 客户， 他们有着各式各样的需求， 『标准化』和『定 制化』要同时兼顾。我们在保证工程质量的前提 下，一直致力于用最新最好的材料和工艺。 」

Jane Ding 丁杰

PRESENTED BY THE EXECUTIVE CENTRE

customization need to work in conjunction. While ensuring that the quality of our interior engineering stays high, we’re always looking to try the newest in materials and design.

“One example of customization would be internet access. In addition to Wi-Fi, we provide wired connections to help certain customers – securities companies, for example – to better meet their requirements for speed and stability. In fact, IT operations at TEC have always been extremely competitive in the marketplace.”

Compared to its peers, TEC has demonstrated steadiness and selfassurance in its growth model. When asked whether another company with sufficient capital could rival TEC if it were to copy its supplier and business models, Ding replies, “Impossible – in the twenty-seven years since we were founded, we’ve developed a deep understanding of our customers and a firm confidence in our capabilities.

“Our competitors can go out and buy Herman Miller chairs or use our interior-design partners, but in their day-to-day operations, do they maintain an unwavering commitment to the highest level of professional service? In China, we generally partner with a client for an average of thirtyfour months. And in the world of office sharing, that’s a very rare thing.”

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「另外，现在办公室普遍用 Wi-Fi，但我 们还是给每个空间配备了『有线』 ，就是为了 保证特定客户比如证券公司，对网速、网络稳 定性的需求。IT 技术在德事的运营中一直非常 有竞争力。 」 诞生于互联网泡沫高峰期的共享办公行 业， 绝大多数企业靠资本输血维生。相比同行， 德事展现出了充分的耐心、踏实与自信。如果 有家公司带着重资本，甚至完全复刻德事的供 应商和经营模式，能在短时间内超过它吗？ 丁杰说道 ： 「不可能的，一家公司创立到现在，

27 年来，它积累的最宝贵的东西就是 – 对客 户的理解以及自身的坚持。 」 「 竞 争 对 手 完 完 全 全 可 以 去 买 Herman Miller 的椅子、用我们的装修公司等等，但实 际运营中它是不是能坚持这种最高端的专业服 务的理念才是取胜的关键。在中国内地，我们 与会员的平均合作期限是 34 个月，这对于共 享办公行业来说，是非常难得的数据。 」

Knowing that its clients are movers and shakers in their respective fields, the question has always been “how we can empower these clients further.”

德事深知服务的对象都处在 「金字塔塔尖」，那该如何从硬 件、软件更好地赋能这群客户？

Discover the exceptional workspace TEC offers at www.executivecentre.com 浏览 www.executivecentre.com， 了解德事打造的专业办公空间

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Spiced quail egg, preserved shrimps with chili

M3 beef M3牛头方

五香鹌鹑蛋、 烧椒牡丹虾

Fish maw soup 花胶鸡牛汤

Top to bottom: assorted pickles, smoked mandarinfish, sliced pork belly with garlic sauce, mustard baby Chinese cabbage, spicy braised abalone 顺时针方向：什锦泡菜、烟熏麒麟鱼、 蒜泥白肉、 芥末娃娃菜和辣卤鲜仔鲍

PRESENTED BY THE PEACOCK ROOM

川菜新定义

sophisticated sichuan

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The Peacock Room takes contemporary Sichuan food to places it’s never been.

FOR SAM ZHANG, executive chef of The Peacock Room in Shanghai, “spicy” is a gross oversimplification of what Sichuan cuisine has to offer.

To help diners understand its complexity and refinement, Zhang and his chefs, many of whom are renowned Sichuan masters, have explored the cuisine’s classic roots by reimagining its contemporary potential on the foundation of the traditional twenty-four flavors.

“I was born in Malaysia,” says Zhang, “but my ancestors are from Guangdong, so I can be considered an overseas Chinese. I was always fascinated by the profundity of Chinese culinary traditions. I also love spicy food and so naturally gravitated toward an exploration of Sichuan flavors.”

When diners join Zhang’s exploration by partaking of the twentyfour-flavor meal set at The Peacock Room, they quickly find the richness of foie gras meeting the spicy silkiness of mapo tofu and winter melon harmonizing with the umami of dried shrimp and enoki mushrooms and the sweetness of goji berry foam. Over the course of the meal, these flavors – and countless others – bloom continuously on the palate in a symphony of taste.

“Sichuan cuisine is a very story-based, culturally rich culinary system,” says Zhang. “Within our set, you’ll find two things: First, we focus on creating unique combinations of ingredients and flavors, and second, we’re very particular in our menu structure and in what order the dishes are served. We hope our diners will be able to clearly differentiate flavors from dish to dish, as well as to taste the interplay between heavier and lighter flavors over the course of their meal.”

M3 beef, long a centerpiece of the menu at The Peacock Room, uses only the tenderest parts of the head, which requires a delicate process and precise knife skills. Carefully cooked to a golden luster, the brain achieves a firm texture and a rich, mellow taste.

Steamed bun with ginger and frog is a famous dish from Zigong to which The Peacock Room has introduced chili pepper paste. The ingredients are the filling for a tantalizing steamed bun made with spinach juice.

At every step, the cooking process highlights each ingredient’s absolute freshness.

“We update the menu every season,” says Zhang, “about every three months. We consider what’s available in the market and study what others are doing. This is the wellspring of our continued inspiration.”

Diners at The Peacock Room not only enjoy inspiration in ingredients,

Executive Chef Sam Zhang 行政主厨 Sam Zhang

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Chief Sommelier Crystal Xiao 首席侍酒师 Crystal Xiao

对于上海孔雀厅的行政主厨 Sam Zhang 而言， 「麻辣」无疑是对川菜天大的误解。为 了让食客们明白川菜除了麻辣外的丰富味型，Sam 与包括多名川菜老师傅的厨师团队 不断发掘川菜的传统，并在川菜的二十四种味型基础上进行重构。 「我虽然在马来西亚出生，但是我的祖籍是广东，算是一个马来西亚 Sam 表示 ： 华侨。我从小便很喜欢博大精深的中餐文化，也很喜欢吃辣，就会有意去探索挖掘川 菜的味型。 」 在孔雀厅的「貳拾肆川味」菜单中，鹅肝的脂香邂逅麻婆豆腐的辛香，冬瓜盅高 汤的咸鲜遇到枸杞泡沫的清甜，二十四种川菜味型在舌尖上一一绽放，合奏出一首曼 妙的味觉交响曲。 「川菜其实是非常有故事性和文化底蕴的菜系。我们除了在『貳 Sam 继续介绍 ： 拾肆川味套餐』的川菜食材和味型搭配上下功夫，也十分讲究上菜流程和菜单结构， 希望可以让客人明确地感知到不同味型的变化，将重口味和淡雅的菜式交错搭配。 」

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flavor profiles, and cooking methods, but also in a décor and atmosphere that reflect the culinary elegance of the Chinese banquet tradition. With gold as its principal theme, the interiors showcase the concepts of top designers from China, Australia, the US , and Korea. The dining area, which features the city’s longest table, seating up to sixty, offers a subtle interplay between light and shadow. The eyes are drawn irresistibly to a resplendent embroidered peacock displayed prominently.

The Peacock Room also features a lavishly stocked wine cellar. While wine pairing in the Western tradition usually features a glass for each course, from appetizer to dessert, The Peacock Room follows a different path. Sichuan cuisine’s emphasis on “one dish, one character” means diners might well enjoy chicken, duck, beef, seafood, and a variety of vegetables in a single setting, and any attempt to strictly adhere to a Westernbased food-and-wine pairing scheme is near impossible. With no formula to stick to, however, sommeliers and diners are free to mix and match at their pleasure, and personal enjoyment is reason enough to choose one wine over another.

In recent years, spirits like whisky and cognac have also found their place on the table at The Peacock Room. Spicy dishes and spirits are often seen as being at odds, since spirits are thought to magnify levels of spiciness and can overstimulate the taste buds and stomach. But according to Crystal Xiao, The Peacock Room’s chief sommelier, when spirits are paired with Sichuan dishes that have the right flavor profiles, exciting things happen. Younger whiskies with notes of cinnamon, for example, can accompany heavily spiced dishes like spiced quail eggs or peony shrimp with roasted pepper. And older whiskies with a smooth, mellow taste perfectly complement dishes like fried pork with pear, with its salty-sweet profile.

PRESENTED BY THE PEACOCK ROOM

M3 牛头方一直以来都是孔雀厅的招牌之 一。选用牛头中肉质最鲜嫩的「精华」精工 改刀，再经过精心的烹制，成菜色泽金黄发亮， 口感粑糯，味道浓鲜醇厚。 仔姜娃小笼包是自贡名菜，和孔雀厅的 辣椒酱炒汤汁一起，包入绿色菠菜汁的汤包 皮中，最大程度激发和保留了食材的本味与 鲜美。 「我们每季都会更新菜单，三个月左右就 会更新。我们经常去外面考察，去市场看看， 去学习，从而不断积累灵感。 」 除了对原料、味型和烹调手法的考究， 中式官府菜「食不厌精，脍不厌细」的传统， 在孔雀厅的装潢及用餐环境中可见一斑。以 金色为主调的空间里，充满着中国、澳大利亚、 美国、韩国设计者们的共同智慧。这里有全 城最长的餐桌，可容纳 60 人共同用餐，于金 镂毓秀的主厅里一字排开。不仅有着炫动的 光影，一只栩栩如生的白色刺绣孔雀在大厅 最醒目的位置呼之欲出，绽放着绚丽光彩。 孔雀厅的恒温酒窖中还有丰富的藏酒。 从前菜到甜品，西方餐配酒的基本格式是一 杯酒一轮摆盘。但川菜摆盘讲究「一菜一格」 ， 一顿吃下来桌面上有鸡鸭牛肉，有蔬菜，也 有海鲜。这样一来，传统西餐中「一菜一盘」 的模式被打破，反而为侍酒师和食客们释放 出随意混搭玩味的空间 ：没有固定公式，莫 问原因，好喝就行。 除了葡萄酒外，近年来威士忌、干邑等 烈酒也逐渐走上了孔雀厅的餐桌。平常来看， 辣和烈酒仿佛是天克之物，叠加在一起会增 加辣度，刺激味蕾和肠胃。但在首席侍酒师

Crystal Xiao 眼中，川菜和洋酒基于风味进行 顺搭，亦有惊喜。比如酒体散发肉桂风味的 威士忌，可以考虑搭配同样充满香料气息的 五香鹌鹑蛋或烧椒牡丹虾 ；而醇浓温润的高 年份威士忌，则可以考虑搭配同样拥有厚重 （咸甜）味道的香梨肉酥。

Winter melon with dried shrimp, enoki mushrooms, and goji berry foam 金鈎什锦冬瓜盅 looking east

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PRESENTED BY WANDA HOTEL

Trio of cold dishes 游宴冷味三重奏

淮扬新风

fresh expression An imaginative chef creates Huaiyang cuisine that is more than the sum of its parts.

自 1989 年正式踏入厨界大门以来，蔡毅已经 CHEF CAI YI WAS CAPTIVATED by the sights and smells of the kitchen 和灶台炉火打了三十多年交道。这位对烟火气 at an early age. He’s been involved with cooking in one form or another 十分着迷的杭州伢儿，如今已是上海万达瑞华 since his first foray into the culinary world in 1989. Today, the Hangzhou 酒店获米其林餐盘推荐的中餐厅──「游宴一 native is Chinese executive chef of River Drunk, the sumptuous Michelin 品淮扬」的中餐行政总厨 。 Plate Chinese restaurant at Shanghai’s Wanda Reign on the Bund hotel. 翻 开 游 宴 一 品 淮 扬 的 菜 单， Front and center at River Drunk are dishes in the Huaiyang BY 八大菜系之一的淮扬菜式仍占据 tradition, celebrated as one of China’s eight major cuisines.

RAY CAI 着重要地位，但众多带有苏、浙、 But deft touches of the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Anhui, and Shanghai • 徽、本帮四地饮食特色的菜式亦 styles also have their say, and it is this eclectic embrace of an PHOTOGRAPHY 十分抢眼，这便是由蔡师傅设计、 array of cuisines that makes Cai’s carefully thought-out menus

BY BEN HU 有别于八大菜系中「小淮扬」的 so exceptional. 「大淮扬」概念。 Cai carries out his “one style but not limited to it” concept 为 了 能 更 好 地 呈 现「大淮扬」 ，蔡师傅 by designing a menu for each season and for each of the twenty-four 不仅因循「不时不食」的原则，设计四季和 solar terms. He finds the time to travel and personally source his products, 二十四节气菜单，还会前往不同的产地寻找 interacting with the growers and the terrain and coming away with a deep 食材。蔡师傅透过与当地人的交流，更深入 understanding of the rich possibilities of each individual ingredient. The 地了解食材的特点。蔡师傅丰富的经验与兼 result is that, one after another, River Drunk’s classic Huaiyang specialties 容并蓄的烹饪之道，令餐厅的菜品展现出独 find new vitality and complexity under his innovative interpretations.

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Cai Yi

Braised meatball

Wagyu beef consommé

蔡毅

金陵石耳狮子头

清水原味和牛肉

“Traditional dishes need to keep up with modern palates and with the aesthetics of the times,” says Cai. A perfect example of this philosophy is his remarkable version of head cheese, a signature Huaiyang dish.

Cai’s approach uses balsamic vinegar and molecular-gastronomy-based cooking methods to produce cubes that are luminously transparent.

The chef’s exquisite presentation of a celadon gourd opens to reveal a trio of cleverly reimagined cold banquet dishes to accompany his unique head cheese. Vegetarian “goose” rolls are delightfully crispy and fresh. A tender and sweet offering of preserved cherry tomatoes with glutinous rice is prepared in a Shanghai-inspired style. And the Ningbo-style shrimp with fried bean curd features seasoning drawn from Jiangzhe’s seafood-based dishes. But with all this multiplicity of influences, each of the dishes remains firmly grounded in the Huaiyang culinary tradition.

The words “look, listen, question, act” have been used to describe Cai’s insightful understanding and execution of the full potential of Chinese cooking styles. And with every innovative Huaiyang-inspired dish at River Drunk, diners continue to savor the results.

特的风貌，许多经典菜式在他手下焕发出崭 新的活力。 蔡师傅说 ： 「传统菜肴的口味、摆盘乃至 器皿的使用需跟得上时代的审美需求。 」以淮 扬菜中不可或缺的水晶肴肉为例，蔡师傅别具 匠心地将佐餐用的香醋，以分子料理方法制成 透明晶球。 打开一件精致的青瓷葫芦，才发现正是 蔡师傅以创新方式演绎的游宴冷味三重奏── 淮扬一派的镇江水晶肴肉晶莹透亮、湖畔素烧 鹅脆爽咸鲜 ；本帮风格糯勿糯圣女果绵软酸 甜，而宁式风格的甬味虾油拼则展现出江浙菜 的海产滋味。创新又不失传统格调的大淮扬菜， 就这样在眼前展现。 曾有人用「望、闻、问、切」来总结蔡 师傅的过人本领，游宴一品淮扬的每一道菜肴 都能体现这四个字，更传达了他对传统的坚守 和创新。 looking east

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独有生机

going organic Nespresso launches the first organic coffee in its newly revamped Professional Origins range.

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PRESENTED BY NESPRESSO

PERU ORGANIC BECOMES Nespresso’s first certified organic coffee, a new addition to an elegant line that already includes three distinctive varieties sourced exclusively from Brazil, Guatemala, and India.

Each of the four coffees comes from carefully selected areas within its single country of origin, enriched by methods of cultivation, harvesting, and processing that have been perfected over time by local farming communities. The result is a sophisticated range of unique flavor and aroma profiles that evoke the land and traditions of the countries where the coffees are grown.

Nespresso chose to launch an organic product from Peru because Peru is one of the world’s largest producers of high-quality organic coffees. The company works continually with farmers through the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program to increase organic practices while not compromising the quality Nespresso is known for.

Nespresso traveled across remote Peruvian regions in search of the finest Arabica coffee beans, and high above one thousand meters, tucked into the slopes of the Andes, it found them. Grown with organic methods passed down from generation to generation, this single-origin coffee is blessed with the meticulous care of smallholder farmers.

After going to such great lengths to source the finest organic Peruvian coffee, it was only natural to take the same care in roasting it.

Peru Organic is split-roasted in two parts to bring a nuanced complexity to the final cup, revealing both the bright, juicy acidity and the elegant fruity character, accented by a smooth toasted cereal note.

Peru Organic is certified organic, which means that it is produced by methods that cycle resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity and that do not involve chemical/synthetic inputs like pesticides. It meets the requirements set by Bio-Inspecta (Swiss Certification Body/Auditor CH – BIO-006), an EU Certification that is also recognized

by USA authorities. “We’ve taken the time and care to craft Peru Organic in accordance with strict practices and controls across the whole supply chain,” says Daniel Weston, Head of Sustainability at Nespresso.

And Nespresso coffee capsules are made from fully recyclable aluminum, which is also one of the best materials for protecting freshness, quality, and taste. The company’s advanced recycling program is committed to making the recycling of used capsules as simple and convenient as possible.

Nespresso coffee experts went across the most remote Peruvian regions in search of some of the finest organic certified Arabica coffee beans Nespresso的专家穿越偏远的秘鲁地区， 寻找最优质的阿拉比卡咖啡豆

Nespresso 推 出 首 款 经 认 证 的 有 机 咖 啡 ── 「Peru Organic」， 成 为 原 产 地 咖 啡 系 列 除 了 「Guatemala」和「India」以外的生力军。 「Brazil」、 这四款咖啡的产区皆经过精挑细选，在当 地农业社区日积月累的培育照料下，咖啡豆的 栽种农法、采收及加工技术渐臻完美，风味精 巧的原产地咖啡系列由此而生，品咖啡之人可 饱览各咖啡豆出产国的风土特色及传统。 秘鲁是世上最大的高品质咖啡豆出口国之 一，因而被 Nespresso 选择成为是次有机咖啡的 原产地。Nespresso 通过其 AAA 可持续品质计划， 与咖啡农紧密合作，确保咖啡的可持续发展。

Nespresso 的 专 家 穿 越 偏 远 的 秘 鲁 地 区， 寻找最优质的阿拉比卡咖啡豆。它们藏在海拔 一千多米的安第斯山脉上，再以代代相传的有 机农法种植，并在咖啡小农的悉心照料下茁壮 成长。 在采购到最优良上乘的秘鲁有机咖啡之 后，Nespresso 的咖啡团队会精心监控咖啡的 烘焙过程。Peru Organic 经过两次烘焙，带来 细腻复杂的口感，同时展现明快的酸度和优雅 的果香，并带有饱满的烘烤麦片香气，交织成 平衡的风味。

Peru Organic 的咖啡树生长过程不使用农 药等化学或人工添加剂，且利用循环资源，并促 进生态平衡和保护生物多样性，因而获得有机认 证。它符合 Bio-Inspecta（瑞士认证机构 / 审核 员 CH – BIO-006）的要求，是一项获得美国当局 认可的欧盟认证。Nespresso 可持续发展部门主 「我们倾注大量时间和心力， 管 Daniel Weston 说： COURTESY OF NESPRESSO (4)

，也确保整个供应链 精心打造了『Peru Organic』 的生产都在控管严格的标准下运行。 」

Nespresso 的咖啡粉囊以铝制成，除了可 完全回收再利用之外，铝制外壳更是封存咖啡 Harvesting of the coffee cherries is done entirely by hand to guarantee that only the ripe cherries are picked 手摘的收成方式能确保咖啡农只采摘成熟的咖啡果实

新 鲜 度、 品 质 及 风 味 的 绝 佳 材 质。Nespresso 的循环再生计画同时也致力追求简便性，让消 费者能以简单又方便的方式回收咖啡粉囊。 looking east

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回归自然

red, white, and green Austria’s wineries, from family-run to large-scale, are leading the way in the production of sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wines.

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早在「有机」这个概念风靡全球之前，奥地利便有许 多酒庄以与土地和谐共存的方式栽植葡萄。位于坎普 托的 Weingut Bründlmayer 即为采用生物动力法并经 认证的永续酒庄，业务行销负责人 Sonja Mayr 说 ： 「我们这两代以来都以此为目标在酿酒，所以近年的 做法也没什么改变，但技术确实越来越精熟。我们已 经五十年没用杀虫剂了，但现在从剪枝到贩售的每个 步骤，我们在沟通和操纵上都更加得心应手。 」 生物动力葡萄栽培法遵循有机工法耕作，禁用 化学肥料、杀虫剂、除草剂，也更进一步奉行整体 论哲学思维，即将农地视为与自然界循环融合且具 有生命的生物体。来自南施泰尔马克地区 Sattlerhof 家族酒庄的 Alex Sattler 说 ： 「第一步是改变思考方 式，把葡萄园视为生态系统的一部分，所以葡萄园 除了植物之外，也需要有动物的存在。我们开始重 视粪土和堆肥的美妙之处，也只以自然发酵法来酿 酒。 」 奥地利葡萄酒农协会推出了一套认证系统，是 对于鼓励更多酒农投身永续农法的重要一步，这套系

COURTESY AUSTRIAN WINE (5)

LONG BEFORE “ORGANIC” became a household word, many of Austria’s wine producers had been growing their grapes in harmony with the land. “Bründlmayer has worked towards these aims for two generations,” says Sonja Mayr of Weingut Bründlmayer, a certified sustainable and biodynamic winery in the Kamptal region, “so we are not doing a lot of things differently, but we are getting better at it. We’ve used no pesticides for fifty years, but now we have more communication and control of every step we undertake, from pruning the vines to selling the bottles.”

Biodynamic viticulture follows organic practices, like banning chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides, but goes further in its holistic philosophy that views the farm as a living organism in tune with nature’s cycles. “It’s first of all a change of thinking,” says Alex Sattler of family-operated Sattlerhof in the Südsteiermark region. “You see your vines as part of a bigger ecosystem that needs to have not just plants but animals as well. We started focusing on the beauty of manure and compost, and we work with spontaneous fermentation only.”

As an important step in encouraging more growers to follow

PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

sustainable practices, the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association has initiated a certification system. It begins with an online tool that helps growers assess and improve their standing with respect to ecological, societal, and economic factors. Only when an examination has been successfully passed is a winery allowed to display the Certified Sustainable Austria logo.

“I think that because of our sustainable certification, we’re producing even higher quality products,” says Julia Kutter of Weingut Wien Cobenzl, owned by the City of Vienna. Matthias Marchesani of Dürnberg in the Weinviertel region agrees: “In the end, there’s no way to produce high quality besides sustainable viticulture. It makes terroir notes more precise and opens your mind to the uniqueness of your style.”

The benefits, many growers find, are long-term. “The rules are becoming stricter every year,” says Sebastian Siess of MAD – Haus Marienberg in Burgenland, “but that doesn’t matter, because we want to operate sustainably for future generations.” And for Thomas Gratzer of Zantho in the Neusiedlersee region, there’s a personal bonus: “Seeing more and more life in our vineyards – more bugs, birds, ground life in general – just makes me happy.”

统以线上工具的形式协助酒农评估自身在生态、社 会和经济要素方面的定位，并引导其进行改善，酒 庄在成功通过检测后，方可标示「奥地利永续认证」 的标章。 维 也 纳 Weingut Wien Cobenzl 酒 庄 的 Julia 「我觉得这个永续认证让我们酿造出了更 Kutter 说 ： 高品质的产品。 」来自魏恩维特地区 Dürnberg 酒庄 「唯有透过 的 Matthias Marchesani 也同意此说法 ： 永续农法才能酿出高品质的葡萄酒。这种工法更加 清晰突显出酒的风土特性，也让我们敞开心胸，拥 抱自身产品风格的独特性。 」 许多葡萄酒农都意识到永续认证能带来长远 的效益，布尔根兰 MAD – Haus Marienberg 酒庄的 「认证规则每年都变得更严 Sebastian Siess 表示 ： 格，但没关系，因为我们希望能为了未来世代永续 地经营下去。 」而对新锡德尔湖地区的 Zantho 酒庄 的 Thomas Gratzer 而言，这也带来了另一项令他个 人相当欣喜的优点 ： 「看到我们的葡萄园里出现了更 多虫、鸟和各种生物，变得更加生气盎然，真的让 我很开心。 」

PRESENTED BY SARTIRANO

名门闪耀

wellborn barolo 「以酿 Costa di Bussia 酒 庄 的 Paolo Sartirano 说 ： “BEING A PRODUCER of Barolo involves not only a life choice 制巴罗洛为业，除了是对于生活的选择之外，更是 but also a philosophy of life,” says Paolo Sartirano of Costa di Bussia 一种人生哲学。 」这对于萨蒂拉诺 (Sartirano) 家族 winery. For the Sartirano family, it also involves a tradition – they 而言也是一项传统──他们在意大利皮埃蒙特酿酒 have been producing wine in Italy’s Piedmont for 150 years. 的历史已长达 150 年。 The family’s artisanal journey began in 1871 with ancestor 萨蒂拉诺家族的酿酒工艺之路起源 Giovanni Sartirano, who produced and marketed wine 于 Giovanni Sartirano， 他 从 1871 年 起 in the region. Just over a century later, Paolo and Guido 便在当地酿酒贩卖。一百余年后，Paolo Sartirano joined the family business and in 1988 bought BY 和 Guido Sartirano 也 参 与 了 Sartirano Tenuta Arnulfo winery. Located in one of Barolo’s most LUCY MORGAN 这 家 族 企 业， 他 们 于 1988 年 买 下 了 important areas, known as Bussia, this property offered Tenuta Arnulfo 酒庄，这间位于巴罗洛 two single vineyards across eleven hectares. Today, the 酿制重镇 Bussia 的酒庄有两座葡萄园， grapes from these astonishingly choice plots yield an 占地合计十一公顷。时至今日，来自这块上选之地 extraordinary Barbera and a magnificent Barolo. 的葡萄持续酿造出品质绝佳的巴贝拉和巴罗洛。 Tenuta Arnulfo winery was the legacy of a true Barolo visionTenuta Arnulfo 酒庄是 Luigi Arnulfo 的传奇结 ary, a talented winemaker named Luigi Arnulfo who worked in the 晶，这位 19 世纪末便于皮埃蒙特酿酒的巴罗洛先 Piedmont region at the end of the nineteenth century. Recognizing 驱相当珍视巴罗洛的价值，决心要引领这款佳酿走 the importance of Barolo, Arnulfo was determined to make it a global 向全世界，他从 1890 年起便开始将其运销至旧金 success, and in 1890, he began exporting his wines to San Francisco. 山。 Today, the Sartirano family honors the founder of Tenuta 萨蒂拉诺家族在当代酿制的获奖名酒 Barolo Arnulfo with an award-winning wine known as Barolo D.O.C.G. Bussia DOCG Bussia Luigi Arnulfo 即 是 为 了 纪 念 这 位 Luigi Arnulfo. Made from the finest grapes on the estate, it undergoes traditional and precise vinification. The family takes its time, Tenuta Arnulfo 的创始先驱，这款佳酿采用该酒庄 最顶级的葡萄，遵循精准的传统酿造方式，并将陈 deploying longer maturation and maceration to extract every nuance 酿与浸渍时间拉长，极致萃取葡萄每一分毫的风味。 of flavor. 这款葡萄酒在多年前刚推出时，使用方形的一 This very special wine is available in standard bottles and also in 加仑酒瓶。如今它既有标准瓶装，也以专利的方形 patented square-shaped three-liter jeroboams, paying tribute to the 三公升瓶装向独特的酒瓶设计致敬。 square one-gallon bottles that the winery’s founder used long ago. 「Barolo Bussia Luigi Arnulfo 浓郁 “Barolo Bussia Luigi Arnulfo is rich in character, austere, but at Paolo 说 ： 紧涩，但又带有优雅细致的口感和辛辣芳香，细 the same time elegant and spicy,” says Sartirano. “The silkiness of 滑的单宁相当突出，香气清晰、率直又迷人。它 the tannins stands out, the nose is direct, precise, and engaging. It’s 充分展现了我们从 Luigi Arnulfo 相片中观察出的 a wine that fully reflects the qualities of Luigi Arnulfo, as we see it 特质 ：气质高雅，机敏的眼神中闪耀着自信和坚 in his photograph: elegant, with perceptive eyes that express confi韧的性格。 」 dence and strength of personality.”

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF SARTIRANO

A century and a half of family experience and the legacy of a Barolo pioneer unite to create an exquisite wine.

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WHISKY

单一麦芽杰作

SINGLE-MALT MASTERPIECES

COURTESY OF MACALLAN (© STEVE MCCURRY/MAGNUM PHOTOS)

The Macallan showcases a collection of exceptional whiskies at its elegant Hong Kong venue.

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COURTESY OF MACALLAN ( JASON@BLACKCATIMAGE.COM)

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享誉全球的单一麦芽威士忌 The Macallan 在香港 知名的购物中心 K11 Musea 打造的 The Macallan

Room，在开幕后就成为城中威士忌爱好者的聚集 之地。 嘉 宾 们 可 在 The Macallan Room 一 窥 卓 越 的单一麦芽威士忌背后的历史故事和奉献精神， 进行一趟品味探索之旅，还能在此自由探索 The Macallan 的传奇故事和精细的工匠精神。爱丁顿 香港及澳门执行总监 Jaime Martin Chocano 表示： 「The Macallan Room 将传统零售空间加入沉浸式 的品牌体验，是令人雀跃不已的品牌空间。 」The

Macallan Room 现用于举办独家定制的体验活动， 邀请来自 The Macallan 的专家到场分享见解。

The Macallan Room 由暖和的黄铜、亮丽的 木质贴面和抛光饰面妆点，舒适高级的环境让客 人能自在地品尝威士忌。另有奢华瑰丽的酒吧和 休息区，陈设限量版酒瓶，如同点点繁星，向尊 贵的客人诉说建立于 1824 年的 The Macallan 的 故事，及其六大支柱 (Six Pillars) 的奥妙。

The Macallan Room 的珍藏中包括两款特别 的佳酿 ：The Macallan Double Cask 15 年及 The

Macallan Double Cask 18 年。 这 一 系 列 产 品 在 2016 年 首 度 推 出， 当 时 面 世 的 是 The Macallan Double Cask 12 年。该系列酒品皆由美国和欧洲 雪莉橡木酒桶完美和谐地酿制而成，创造出质地 平衡、口感独特温润、柔和香甜的苏格兰单一麦 芽威士忌。

COURTESY OF MACALLAN (4, © STEVE MCCURRY/MAGNUM PHOTOS)

EVER SINCE RENOWNED whisky brand The Macallan unveiled its latest achievement, The Macallan Room at Hong Kong’s opulent K11 Musea shopping center, the stylish space has become a gathering place for the city’s cognoscenti of fine Scotch.

Devoted to The Macallan’s unique approach to the art of making whisky, The Macallan Room takes guests on a journey of discovery, revealing the heritage and dedication behind one of the world’s most sought-after single malts. Whisky lovers are free to explore every aspect of The Macallan’s long history and meticulous craftsmanship.

“The Macallan Room is an exciting brand space,” says Jaime Martin Chocano, managing director at Edrington Hong Kong & Macau. “It marries a traditional retail space with an immersive brand experience.” The room is available for hosting bespoke experiential events, with experts from The Macallan on hand to share their insights and knowledge.

Liberal use of warm brass, handsome wood veneers, and burnished surfaces encourages guests to savor the house’s whiskies in comfort. At the impressive bar and in the sumptuous lounge area, visitors peruse an array of limited-edition bottles. Displayed like stars in an interrelated galaxy of single malts, they trace their origins to the establishment of The Macallan in 1824 and to its famous founding principles, the Six Pillars.

Among The Macallan Room’s star attractions are two remarkable bottles: The Macallan Double Cask 15 Years Old and Double Cask 18 Years Old. Part of a collection that began in 2016 with The Macallan Double Cask 12 Years Old, they are the result of the union of sherryseasoned casks made from American oak and European oak. Together,

FW E AHTIUS K R EY

The Macallan Room offers a luxurious and immersive brand experience.

COURTESY OF MACALLAN ( WWW.BLACKCATIMAGE.COM)

The Macallan Room为威士忌爱好者带来奢华的沉浸式品牌体验。

they produce a balanced single-malt Scotch with a distinct warm character accented by a contemporary soft sweetness.

The Double Cask story begins with European oak sourced in northern Spain and the French Pyrenees and continues with new American oak from Ohio, Missouri, and Kentucky. In Spain, both types are handcrafted into casks and filled with sherry. Once seasoned, they are shipped to The Macallan Estate on Speyside, filled with newmake spirit, and allowed to slumber for years. The Macallan’s Whisky Mastery Team then selects the best blend of spirits from both types to create Double Cask. The sherry-seasoned American oak imparts delicate flavors of vanilla and the European oak lends the subtle spice and classic style of The Macallan. “Bringing together American and European oak to achieve the perfect balance of flavors is incredibly exciting,” says Master Whisky Maker Kirsteen Campbell.

With its golden butterscotch hue, The Macallan Double Cask 15 Years Old offers aromas of dried fruit, toffee, and vanilla and delivers a warm finish with a creamy mouthfeel. The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old has a rich amber honey tone and nuances of dried fruits, ginger, and toffee. A warm oak spice finish is balanced by citrus notes of sweet orange.

In a creative collaboration with The Macallan, noted Magnum photographer Steve McCurry traveled across continents to witness the Double Cask saga unfold. “What I admire about The Macallan,” he says, “is their passion for craftsmanship and the integrity of their processes.” McCurry’s photographic journal documenting the people, places, and methods involved was presented at K11 Musea as The Macallan Extraordinary Wood Journey Exhibition.

The Macallan 的寻木之旅从西班牙北部和法 国庇里牛斯山脉的欧洲橡木开始，后来远赴美国 俄亥俄州、密苏里州和肯塔基州，采收当地橡木。

The Macallan 不远千里将橡木运至西班牙，利用 纯熟手艺将橡木制成木桶，注满香醇顺口的雪莉 酒。木桶润桶后被运至斯佩河畔的 Macallan 酒厂， 再注入新酒。经多年静置熟成，The Macallan 威 士忌专家团队以丰富经验，从美国及欧洲橡木 桶中分别筛选最优质的酒酿，融合制成 Double

Cask。 美国雪莉橡木桶让熟成酒体带有迷人的香草 味，而在欧洲雪莉橡木桶熟成的酒体则散发辛香 和 The Macallan 的 经 典 独 特 风 味。 威 士 忌 大 师 「两者达到绝妙平衡， Kirsteen Campbell 大力称赞： 组 合 新 鲜、 口 味 独 特。 」The Macallan Double

Cask 15 年呈现奶油糖般的金黄色调，散发出果 干、太妃糖和香草香，余味温暖，口感滑腻。The Macallan Double Cask 18 年则闪耀着鲜艳的琥珀 蜂蜜色，带着果干、生姜和太妃糖的香气。甜橙 的柑橘味平衡了温润的橡木香。

Magnum Society 的 知 名 摄 影 师 Steve McCurry 与 The Macallan 合作，走遍各大洲，见 「我欣赏 证 这 款 佳 酿 的 传 奇 之 旅。Steve 表 示 ： The Macallan 对酿酒手艺的重视，及其背后蕴藏 的热情。 」Steve 的独家摄影日志也在 K11 Musea 展出，记录了在 The Macallan 的寻木之旅中，独 特的橡木桶制作历程以及所有人事物。 looking east

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Forum Restaurant 50% Cloud Artists Lounge 半朵云艺术家会客厅

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS WING 永 5 Chinese

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3/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港金钟道88号太古广场香港 JW万豪酒店三楼 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-15:00 Sat-Sun: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30

The Peacock Room 孔雀厅

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cuisine

S301 Southern Block, No. 288

2/F, The St. Regis Hong Kong,

Shimen Road (No .1), HKRI

One Harbour Drive, Wan Chai,

Lobby Level, Four Seasons

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Taikoo Hui, Shanghai

Hong Kong

Macao Cotai Strip, Estrada

538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Road,

上海市静安区石门一路288号兴 业太古汇南楼S301

香港湾仔港湾径1号香港瑞吉酒 店二楼

Lunch: 11:00-15:00

Lunch: 12:00-14:30

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da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperança, S/N, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔望德圣母湾大马路澳 门四季酒店大堂 11:00-22:30

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Huangpu District, Shanghai 上海市黄浦区中山东二路538号 上海万达瑞华酒店五楼 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:30-14:00 Dinner: 17:30-22:30

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