TK51 For the Earth by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

FOR THE EARTH HONG KONG Second Nature 永续为常 MACAU Way of Life 可持续生活形态 ENGLAND The Local Larder 风土主导 HKD100 | MOP100 | RMB100 | NTD400 | SGD17 | USD13 | £/ GBP10 TASTINGKITCHEN51

ON THE COVER Read more starting on page 52 翻阅第52页，了解Richard 洋蓟料理成一道精致永续佳肴如何将

Photography by Samantha Sin 给大厨一束新鲜的紫洋蓟，也许就是送 Richard Ekkebus 蓟当季时，米其林二星餐厅物。洋蓟是他最爱的蔬菜，当洋的最佳礼Amber 宙斯在盛怒之下把一位名为起源的故事。传说希腊神话中的感无与伦比，洐生出不少关于其总有它的身影。洋蓟的风味和口Cynara 的少女变成了一棵紫洋蓟。

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2 | TK | for the earth Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures. Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。 GROUP ADVERTISING 广告查询 sales@tasting-kitchen.com SUBSCRIPTIONS 订阅查询 subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com TRANSLATION SERVICES 翻译服务 Babel jonna@babel.com.twCommunications PRINTING 印刷 Asia One Printing Limited 宏亚印务有限公司 David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监 Mamie RobertMarilynChenBurkleyBurkley SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑 Zita VivianWanPun ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑 Alicia Beebe ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监 J. Carl Kerkman, MFA IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑 Kate Nicholson CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏 Lucy Morgan Lucy Jenkins Chris Dwyer Inara Sim Joyce Kwok Vicki LeslieWilliamsTsiang CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家 Tracy On DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地总监 Eddie Cheung EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地编辑总监 TASTINGKITCHENFORTHEEARTH51 Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.comLimited SHANGHAI Room H2, No 25 Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室 HONG KONG Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室 MACAU Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde Rés-do-chão C, Macau 澳门和隆街 2 晶品艺楹地面号 C 座 Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com Joey Cheang EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 总编辑 joey@tasting-kitchen.com Lauriane Lemaire REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR 区域业务总监 lauriane@tasting-kitchen.com Jaakko Sorsa OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com

A hand-tied bouquet of fresh, purple artichokes might just be the perfect gift for Chef Richard Ekkebus. They are his favorite vegetable, so when it’s artichoke season, you can be sure to find them on the menu at two-Michelin-starred Amber. Mysterious stories surround the origin of this beautiful plant. The Greek God Zeuus is reputed to have transformed a beautiful maiden called Cynara into an artichoke during a fit of rage.

25 AUGUST 2022 Nanjing International Expo Center | 南京国际博览中心 CHINA RESTAURANT INTERIOR DESIGN AWARDS C I A R D 中国餐饮空间设计奖 2022

4 | TK | for the earth PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Top producers of premium fish such as Ōra King Salmon from New Zealand are now following something called Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP), which ensure that from processing plant to farm, from hatchery to feed mill, the production chain is completely compliant with hundreds of best practices encompassing food safety, worker welfare, and the conservation of nature’s resources.

The issue contains many more inspiring sustainable stories, and we hope it brings as much pleasure to you in reading as it did for us in creating.

Wineries like Château Galoupet have found innovative ways to reduce the glass used in making wine bottles by 70%, and forests around the winery provide a habitat for migrant birds, rare bats, and the Hermann’s tortoise.

In this issue, themed For the Earth and the largest in TK’s ten-year history, we celebrate the work that chefs, winemakers, entrepreneurs and other innovators are do ing to create a more sustainable future.

Sometimes the roots of commit ment go deep. Richard Ekkebus, the star of our cover story and one of Asia’s leading champions of Sustainability, grew up in rural Holland with a Greenpeaceloving artist mom and an engineer father. Today he combines those childhood threads of passion and rigor to drive one of the most ambitiously sustainable hotel operations in Asia.

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen

亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。本期杂志以「For the Earth（为地球着想）」为主题，是 TK 十年旅途中规模最大的一期。我们分享多位主厨、酿酒师、企业家及其他引领永续风潮人士为永续发展所做的努力。有时候，承诺与奉献的根基可追溯至孩提时期。本期封面故事的主角 Richard Ekkebus 是亚洲地区的永续先驱，他在荷兰乡郊长大，母亲是热爱绿色和平的艺术家，父亲则是工程师。今天，他将童年的热忱与严谨的态度两相结合，引领锐意在永续方面大力发展的亚洲酒店之一勇往直前。 Richard 不遗余力地宣扬自己的永续理念与承诺，深深启发了 Daniel Humm，让他下定决心将自己管理的著名纽约餐厅 Eleven Madison Park 转型，推出完全以蔬食为基础的菜单。 Richard 也积极参与社区推广和教育活动，同时继续开发出令人赞叹的美食佳肴。与他共同谱写本期封面故事，实属 TK 今年的一大亮点。烈酒集团 Pernod Ricard 加正致力于推动「未来酒吧世界」等类似概念，并计划利用 ecoSPIRITS 系统，也就是将烈酒装在可重复利用的容器中，而不是装在单一小玻璃瓶中销售。这个解决方案既聪明又优雅，想必很快就会被广泛利用。 Château Galoupet 酒庄已经找到创新方式，将生产酒瓶所需的玻璃减少七成，而酒厂周围的森林则成为候鸟、稀有蝙蝠与赫曼陆龟的栖息地。优质鱼类的顶级供应商，例如纽西兰的 Ōra King 鲑鱼，遵循最佳水产养殖规范（BAP）的标准，确保从加工厂到养殖场、孵化场到饲料厂，整个生产链完全符合数百项标准，包括食品安全、员工福利，以及对自然资源的保育等项目。我们还探索了其他地区民众在永续方面投注的努力，亲自造访南非 Kleinood 酒庄，他们提倡「以最多人手酿造每瓶美酒」的操作，也就是用手工来完成所有工作，来造就品质最顶尖的葡萄酒，并将浪费减到最低。在酒厂中，员工会亲手将葡萄分类，确保葡萄不会瘀伤或受损。本期收录了更多激励人心的永续故事，编辑团队在撰稿过程中亦深受启发，盼这些故事也能让您乐在其中。请享受悦读时光。

We also explore efforts further afield, including a personal visit to Kleinood winery in South Africa, where they advocate an approach called “maximum hands per bottle” everything is done by hand for maximum quality and minimum waste, and in the winery grapes are hand-sorted to make sure they’re not bruised or damaged.

Chef Ekkebus’ outspoken commitment helped to inspire Daniel Humm to transition his renowned New York City restaurant Eleven Madison Park to a fully plant-based menu. Ekkebus tirelessly engages in community outreach and education all while continuing to create some of the most compelling cuisine in Asia. Creating this expansive cover story with him has been one of the highlights of TK’s year. Spirit Groups such as Pernod Ricard are focused on concepts like Bar World of Tomorrow, introducing the EcoSPIRITS concept selling spirits in large refillable containers instead of small individual glass bottles to top bartenders across the region. It’s an elegant solution that seems destined to soon become universal.

6 | TK | for the earth CONTENTS 72 8 Reflecting on Nature • 12 Dining on Eggshells • 16 Second Skin • 20 Elegant Moments 26 A Particular Magic • 30 Desert Garden • 34 Nature Aglow • 38 A Heritage of Flavors • 40 Surprising Sichuan 44 Vegetarian Variations • 52 Second Nature • 72 Way of Life • 82 The Local Larder 2016128 26 40383430 82 “All the materials we used in the refit, like oak, linen, and leather, were natural. I feel that the artisanal element needs to come back into restaurant design.” Richard Ekkebus 52 44

for the earth | TK | 7 88 Living Traditions • 92 Sustainable by Nature • 96 Strictly Manx • 100 Exporting Sustainability • 104 Stars of Bounty • 108 Eco-Bars 114 Cutting the Waste • 116 Many Hands • 122 Telling the Story • 128 Sustainable Fusion • 134 Taste and Beauty • 140 Elegant, Balanced, and Green 144 Naturally Inspired • 146 Fostering Fish • 148 King of Sustainability • 150 Symbiotic Vineyards • 154 Brilliant Combinations 158 Spirit of Sustainability • 160 Guardian and Vanguard • 162 Stewards of the Land 164 Toast to Tomorrow • 166 Taking the Lead 164162160158 166 CONTENTS 118146 148134114 30 38 100969288 104 128 14412215460 108 140150116

SWISS-BORN PAINTER, sculptor, and former graffiti artist Nicolas Party has taken inspiration from a world increasingly impacted by unmistakable signs of climate change to create a series of works that thoughtfully examine the history of the interaction between humans and nature.Inhisfirst solo Hong Kong exhibition, on view at Hauser & Wirth gallery through September 24, the artist presents a selec tion of thirteen pastel canvases with a range of imagery from flaming trees to beings wrapped in meteorites. “For me, all the different elements you see, like the shapes, colors, and composition – but also the concepts and the symbolism – must be balanced in the right way to make an interesting artwork.” It might at first glance seem obscure how Party’s unconventional approach expresses a natural world in crisis. But with probing, the links begin to emerge. The Red Forest series was prompted by North America’s recurrent forest fires. A sun in ominous shades of orange rises above timeless looming mountain ranges and icebergs in the Water

家的出生于瑞士，身为画家、雕塑家与前涂鸦艺术 Nicolas Party 刻反思并审视历来人类与自然的互动模式。的自然环境中汲取灵感，创作出系列作品，深，从日渐受到气候变迁影响他在香港的首次个展在 Hauser & Wirth 艺廊展出至 9 月 24 颜色、者看到的所有不同元素，例如形状、包裹的生命的意像。「对我来说，观画，其中有着从燃烧的树木到被陨石日。展览展出他的十三幅粉彩构图，还有概念与象征意义，都必须达到完美平衡，才能建构出一幅有趣的艺术作品。」乍看之下，观者或许无法洞悉 Nicolas 《红色森林》系列灵感来自北美地区经常发生的界。仔细探究之后，其中的关联开始变得清晰。是如何勾勒出一个岌岌可危的自然世森林大火。在《水中倒影》系列中，令人不安的橘色太阳在永恒的山脉和冰山之上升起。在 Red Forest, Nicolas Party’s current exhibition of pastel landscapes and portraits, explores humanity’s complex relationship with the natural environment. reflecting on nature 反思自然 BY KATE NICHOLSON• ART BY NICOLAS PARTY ART (2)WIRTH&HAUSERANDARTISTTHECOURTESY 8 | TK | for the earth

Portrait with Meteorite2022 Soft pastel on linen 《陨石人像》 ← Red Forest2022 Soft pastel on linen 《红色森林》

在当代艺术中并不常见。有趣。粉彩这种媒材在十八世纪相当受欢迎，但石。代文化中，因带有特异美感而成为收藏品的文人标题中的陨石，或者如艺术家所示，是在中国古可能是被困于其中。这些如石头一般的物质就如在布满细致裂纹、如石头一般的物质当中，也有每一幅《陨石人像》的画布上，中性人像被包裹展览中的作品是由粉彩绘制而成，这点相当 Nicolas 方式，其实是受到感受到一种被包围的氛围。这种展示粉彩画作的我打从一开始就爱上粉彩了。」色，摸起来呈粉状、触感迷人，而且质感也不同。彩时需要用手指来作画。手边会有各式各样的颜指出：「使用粉展出作品被挂在色彩鲜艳的墙面上，让观者 Nicolas 汉默美术馆委托绘制涂鸦和壁画。的经验所影响。他先前曾受达拉斯艺术博物馆与早年创作涂鸦与壁画 Nicolas 「在这场展览中，有很多关于历史艺术品、绘画，表示：还有我们与大自然关系的探讨。」的确，这些画作中的创作发想横跨时空：中国传统哲学的五行、后现代主义的风景画，甚至还有好莱坞的末日史诗。「《红色森林》探讨不同文化背景中，自然与人类的概念。我一直试着去定义自然中的这些元素，并探讨所有元素互相连结的方式。」 ← Water Reflection Soft2022pastel on linen 《水中倒影》 → Water Reflection Soft2022pastel on linen 《水中倒影》 10 TK | FOR THE EARTH

“In this show, there was a lot of conversation between historical artwork, painting, and our relationship to nature,” Party notes. Indeed, the artistic references found in the works are far-reaching across time and place: the five elements of traditional Chinese philosophy, postmodernist landscape painting, even the apocalyptic epics of Hollywood. “Red Forest explores the idea of what is natural and what is human across different cultures. I’ve been trying to define those elements of nature and how everything is interconnected.”

A point of particular interest is that the works in the show are rendered in pastel, a medium that reached its zenith in the eighteenth century but is uncommon among contemporary artists. “You work with your finger,” Party explains. “You have all those different colors, it’s very powdery and sensual, and the texture is different. I really fell in love from the get-go.”

The exhibition’s works are displayed on brightly colored walls to create an enveloping experience for viewers. This approach to the presentation of his pastels was influenced by Party’s early projects involving graffiti and murals, including commissions for the Dallas Museum of Art and the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles.

ART Reflection series. And in each Portrait with Meteorite canvas, androgy nous human figures are encased, possibly entrapped, in an intricately creviced, stone-like substance resembling the meteorites of the title or, as the artist hints, gongshi, or “scholar’s rocks” of ancient Chinese literati culture collected for their unusual aesthetic qualities.

(2)WIRTH&HAUSERANDARTISTTHECOURTESY for the earth | TK 11

ACCORDING TO eco-entrepreneur Lay Koon Tan, few companies at the turn of the twenty-first century took “a multifac eted view of sustainability by balancing social, environmental, and economic fac tors.” In a quest to address these issues, she founded Nature Squared with friend and collaborator Paul Hoeve. The company now has two factories in Cebu, Philippines, along with headquarters in Switzerland and teams based in London, Barcelona, and Hong Kong. Nature Squared’s clients include names like Rolls Royce and Mont Blanc as well as makers of mega-yachts. The company’s new projects are released through high-end galleries like Italy-based Rossana Orlandi and at prestige events like Milan Design Week and Rendezvous de la Matière in Paris. But what sets Nature Squared apart from other suppliers of building materials, tiles, fixtures, Koon

Tan 种情况，她与友人兼合作伙伴经济因素，来实践多元的永续观点。为了解决这纪初，只有小部分公司会透过平衡社会、环境与所述，在二十一世 Paul Hoeve 成立 Nature Squared 家工厂，总部在瑞士，分部则分别位于伦敦、巴。该公司目前在菲律宾宿雾有两塞隆纳与香港。 Nature Squared 们会透过意大利的斯、万宝龙，以及大型游艇制造商。他的客户包括劳斯莱 Rossana Orlandi 等高级画廊，以及米兰设计周和巴黎 Rendez-vous de la Matière 知名活动，来发表最新设计成果。不过，（专业建筑及室内设计物料展）等 Nature Squared 磁砖、配件及奢华生活用品供应商不同，跟其他专攻超高净值客户的建筑材料、 Nature Squared 毛、蛋壳和鱼皮等等。回收的竹子、烟叶和木棉荚等种植园废弃物、羽有吸引力的原物料所制成，比方说从建造过程中的所有产品，都是由鲜少被视为高档或 Lay Koon 某项产业或活动会制造出哪些废弃物，而这通常们想要支持特定社区。针对第一项，我们会找出项，第一是我们想要使用某些废物流，再来是我表示：「我们的出发点主要分为两 Nature Squared transforms organic waste into beautiful, sustainable products for the luxury design sector. dining on eggshells 壳已成桌 BY KATE NICHOLSON INSPIRED LIVING Nature Squared employs and trains local craftspeople and artisans in Cebu where its factories are located. Natured Squared 匠，并提供培训，以推动社区发展。在宿雾的工厂雇用当地的工 12 TK | for the earth

and 据生态企业家 Lay

“We have two starting points,” says Tan, “a waste stream we want to use and a community we want to support. For the former, we identify a waste product of another industry or activity, usually in agriculture or food processing. For the latter, we look at what waste a com munity is producing or what fast-growing and abundant material they can harvest.”

展目标（丰富的材料。」区正在制造什么废弃物，或是他们能收成哪些快速生长、数量来自农业或食品加工领域。针对第二项，我们则会观察一个社为了确保原物料完全符合永续精神，他们以联合国永续发 SDGs）与内部 ISO 标准为方针。Nature Squared 接受一次审查，来确保产品符合公司严格的生态标准。社会资源到生产与包装，制造过程中的每个环节每年至少都要作，并提供培训，以订制和限量的方式来生产产品。从原料采购、顾问，以及渔民和农民等当地专家所组成。他们与当地工匠合队成员背景多样，由设计师、科学家、工程师、自然资源保护的团通过如此严格的制造过程， Nature Squared 业者来说也格外梦寐以求。又有益于地球环境的产品，产品品质对全球高级餐饮业的许多制造出既美观 Ella Canta 的知名墨西哥餐厅，餐厅内不使用桌巾，而是以订制的是一家位于伦敦梅费尔区 Nature Squared 桌面来替代。这种桌面是由镶嵌蛋壳、永续采购的象牙、 One of the company’s latest products is CArreléa, a series of tiles crafted from waste eggshells. 最新系列产品CArreléa是由废弃蛋壳镶嵌而成的砖瓦。 (5)SQUAREDNATUREOFCOURTESY for the earth TK | 13

To ensure that their source materials are holistically sustainable, they use as guidelines the United Nations

luxury lifestyle items geared toward ultrahigh-net-worth customers is that all of their products are made from raw materials that few would deem upscale or attractive: bamboo salvaged from construction, plantation waste like tobacco leaves and kapok pods, feathers, eggshells, and fish skins, among others.

Waste eggshells make for a surprisingly durable, adaptable, and beautiful building material similar to traditional terrazzo. 传统的水磨石相似。耐用、百搭、美观，与由废弃蛋壳制成的材质 14 TK | for the earth

Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and also in-house ISO standards. The Nature Squared team is a diverse one, made up of designers, scientists, engineers, and conservation advisors along with on-the-ground experts like fishermen and farmers. All factors, from material sourcing and social resources to production and packag ing, are reviewed at least annually to guarantee that they meet the company’s stringent ecologi cal standards.Theoutcome is products that are both beautiful and good for the planet, qualities that many in the global fine-dining industry find espe cially desirable. Ella Canta, a celebrated Mexican restaurant on Park Lane in London’s posh Mayfair district, shuns tablecloths in favor of bespoke Nature Squared tabletops crafted in their distinct color palette from inlaid eggshells, sustainably sourced ivory, black lacquer, and walnut trim.

黑漆和胡桃木饰边所组成，整体色调相当独特。Lay Koon 指出：「主厨 Martha Ortiz 户订制的一系列餐桌转盘。吧台、澳门伦敦人酒店中以不同材质制成的餐桌面，以及为亚洲顶级客过使用实测的桌面。」看到蛋壳总是会有这种心理疑虑。为了消弭这项疑虑，我们做出一张经跟团队都很喜欢蛋壳，但还是会担心蛋壳不够耐用。大家其他设计项目包括慕尼黑四季凯宾斯基酒店的箭猪刚毛和水牛角 Lay Koon 善之处。虽然大家对永续的意识在过去二十年来已大幅提升，但为优秀的天然材料赋予另一种面貌。」我认为我们与伟大的厨师有异曲同工之妙，都是透过艺术性的创造才能，引力和触感，和那些扣人心弦的饮品与料理一样，都能触动人的感官。指出：「我们使用的材料的视觉吸确实，奢侈品产业的永续材料制造与产品创造过程仍有许多可改 Lay Koon 思考变成行动。要积极而不是被动，不要被挑战吓到，这将是品不仅要吸引、实用，还要对环境负责。她说：「关键在于将谈话和表示该产业通常还是只以美学与功能为主导。她认为最理想的产 Nature Squared 团队努力达成的目标。」 INSPIRED LIVING To ensure that they meet the company’s stringent ecological standards, all factors, from material sourcing and social resources to production and packaging, are reviewed at least annually. 从原料采购、社会资源到生产与包装，制造过程中的每个环节每年至少都要接受一次审查，确保产品符合公司严格的生态标准。 (3)SQUAREDNATUREOFCOURTESY for the earth TK | 15

There is, of course, still much to do in sustainable materials production and prod uct creation in the luxury sector. Tan, despite seeing a “sea change in awareness” over the past twenty years, notes that decisions in the industry are still often made on aesthetics or functionality alone. What she sees as ideal is something that is as attractive as it is functional as it is environmentally responsible. “The key is to turn talk and thought into action,” she says, “to be active, not passive, and not to be deterred by the magnitude of the challenge. That’s just what we try to do at Nature Squared.”

“Chef Martha Ortiz and the team loved the egg shells,” says Tan, “but were concerned about its durability – always a psychological barrier with eggshells. To allay this, we made a tabletop that was test-run in real-life conditions.” Other projects include a bar made from porcupine quills and buffalo horn at the iconic Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski Munich, restaurant tabletops of various materials in the Londoner Hotel in Macau, and a range of lazy Susans for top Asian clients. “The visual appeal and tactility of our materials speak to the senses,” notes Tan, “and so does great food and drink. I see a parallel between what we do – transforming natural materials through artistic talent – and what a great chef does by taking great ingredients and working creative magic.”

(3)RUINARTOFCOURTESY for the earth TK | 17

THE OLDEST Champagne house in the world, Maison Ruinart, has done away with bulky, showy gift boxes and opted instead for discreet, elegant, eco-friendly packaging that is nine times lighter.

Made from 100 percent cellulose sourced from sustainably managed European forests, the new wrapper reveals the sinuous signature shape of the bottle by gently hugging its curves. Pure white and with a texture like raw silk and the opacity of natu ral chalk, the packaging is purposely reminiscent of the chalk walls of Ruinart’s cellars at Crayères de Reims, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where the Maison’s renowned Champagnes are aged. This innovative departure from traditional gift packaging is entirely in keeping with Ruinart’s overall philosophy of environmental responsibility. Currently, 98 percent of its total waste is recycled, and all by-products of the vinification process are recycled as well. “Climate change is already hap pening in the vineyards,” says Cellar Master Frédéric Panaïotis. “The Champagne terroir is the source of our wines’ excellence, and we have a responsibility to protect and preserve this natural environment.” Maison Ruinart developed the new packag ing in collaboration with two companies that have like-minded approaches to sustainability, Italian box maker Pusterla 1880 and British paper special ist James Cropper. The latter is based in England’s beautiful Lake District and sources its manufactur ing needs from sustainably managed forests and water resources. Champagne pioneer Ruinart leads the way with its sleek, stylish, and sustainable new packaging. second skin Champagne terroir is the source of our wines’ excellence, and we have a responsibility to protect and preserve this natural environment. Panaïotis

永续新「肌」 PRESENTED BY MOËT HENNESSY DIAGEO “The

我们的葡萄酒之所以顶尖优异，香槟区的风土是一大功臣。我们有责任保护、保存这个自然环境。” Frédéric

PRESENTED BY MOËT HENNESSY DIAGEO

Its minimalist form and textured surface give the second skin eco-packaging, a classic quality that is simultaneously revealing and concealing and that viewers find both appealing and intriguing.

Maison Ruinart 更具永续性的未来。申请专利，希望鼓励其他酒庄追随其步伐，一同迈向决定不替新包装的制造工艺(4)RUINARTOFCOURTESY for the earth TK | 19

And in keeping with its reputation as not only the oldest but also the most innovative Champagne house in the world, Maison Ruinart has decided not to patent the package’s manufacturing process, in hopes of encouraging other Champagne houses to follow its lead toward a more sustainable future.

Three years were spent in developing Ruinart’s new “second skin eco-packaging” to ensure that it was 100 percent recyclable, would completely protect the Champagne, and had the stylish look appropriate to the prestige of its contents. The design was reworked several times, and oenological testing was carried out on each prototype to check that the wine remained in perfect condi tion. One seemingly simple problem that actually turned out to be quite complex was the design of a paper fastener that would allow the packaging to be fully recyclable. The final result, in comparison to Maison Ruinart’s previous gift boxes, has reduced the carbon footprint by 60 percent.

Maison Ruinart 之美誉，现的视觉效果，既迷人又耐人寻味。表面纹理质感鲜明，展现经典特性，同时具有若隐若包装减少了百分之六十的碳足迹。过往的礼盒包装相比，新这款全新环保包装「第二层肌肤」，形式简约，为了保有世上最古老、最具创新精神的香槟酒庄

The resulting white color, besides evoking the chalk of the cellar walls, also pays homage to the traditional ritual of wrapping a Champagne bottle in a white linen napkin for serving.

Ruinart 位于 Crayères de Reims 这个地点被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产，而的酒窖墙壁遥相呼应。 Ruinart这种有别于传统礼盒包装的创新手法，完全符合知名的香槟就是在此地陈酿而成。 Ruinart 亦如此。酿酒师的废弃物都会被回收再用，酿造过程中的所有副产品的环保责任理念。目前，酒庄百分之九十八 Frédéric Panaïotis 个自然环境。」香槟区的风土是一大功臣。我们有责任保护、保存这已对葡萄园造成影响。我们的葡萄酒之所以顶尖优异，表示：「气候变化 Maison Ruinart 盒制造商公司开发出全新包装，这两家厂商分别为意大利纸与两家在永续方面志同道合的 Pusterla 1880 与英国专业纸品公司 James Cropper 坏葡萄酒的细致风味。对于用透明玻璃制成的完全不透光，因为葡萄酒对光线敏感，过度曝光会破永续管理森林和水资源，对造纸过程相当重要。。后者位于英格兰美丽的湖区，有着丰富的用纸张来包装香槟的一大挑战，就是必须让纸张

作为全球最古老的香槟酒庄，Maison Ruinart 丝般的质地以及天然白垩的不透明特性，目的是与线，突显酒瓶起伏有致的轮廓。纯白色的包装具有生续手法管理的欧洲森林。包装纸轻柔地环抱瓶身曲且重量只有以往的九分之一。低调、优雅环保的外包装，取代繁复浮夸的礼盒，而选择以新包装由百分之百纤维素制成，原料来自以永 Blanc de Blancs 当复杂。与计出一款纸质扣件，这个挑战看似简单，实际上却相是否完美无损。要将包装纸回收再利用，酒庄必须设每个原型设计都需要接受测试，以检查葡萄酒的风味来开发新款包装。包装纸的设计经过几次修改调整，并驾齐驱的时髦外观，酒庄与合作伙伴耗费三年时间之百可回收，又能保护香槟，并具有与香槟之高品质瓶的传统致敬。窖墙壁上的白垩，也向用白色亚麻布餐巾包裹香槟酒穿透纸张。由此产生的纯白色泽，除了让人联想到酒別在纤维素混合物中加入金属氧化物，确保光线无法葡萄酒瓶来说，这点格外重要。制造商特为了确保全新环保包装「第二层肌肤」既是百分

One challenge in using paper packaging for Champagne is in making it completely opaque, since wine is light-sensitive and overexposure can damage its delicate flavor. This is espe cially important for the Blanc de Blancs bottle, which is made of clear glass. By using a metallic oxide in the cellulose mix, the manufacturers were able to ensure that no light can penetrate.

Christofle’s fine French tableware from its MOOD collection and the finely crafted food of Chef Jaakko Sorsa make perfect partners at any time of day. momentselegant 分享之美 PRESENTED BY CHRISTOFLE Christofle Malmaison and Guilloche dinnerware and the 24-carat yellow gold plated MOOD Gold case elegantly adorn any table. 用Malmaison马勒梅松城堡和Guilloche 系列餐具，以及外层镀有24K黄金的MOOD 心境蛋镜面蛋壳，为餐桌增添优雅感觉。 20 TK for the earth

An enticing Asian-influenced evening spread features a Christofle Malmaison Chinese soup bowl, complementary spoon, and a set of Malmaison silver plates. 一顿完美的亚洲风味晚餐，少不了 MalmaisonChristofle 堡系列汤碗、汤勺和马勒梅松城同系列的银色餐盘。 FOR THE EARTH | TK | 21

Christofle’s MOOD Party Tray, one of Chef Sorsa’s favorites, is essential for those appetizing moments before dinner. MOOD派对托盘是主厨Jaakko 也是享受开胃菜时刻的理想之选。的最爱之一， 22 TK for the earth

1830 年以来，法国高端银器品牌 Christofle 布置艺术，饮的高雅想望。为了重新探索、不断重新定义餐桌作为创新先驱，持续演进发展，致力于满足当代餐昆庭始终 Christofle 在 2015 年设计出 MOOD 心境蛋系列，今年更推出 MOOD 为了向亚洲美食致敬，亚洲版心境蛋新品。 MOOD 括镀银筷子，筷子带有两层脊状隆起，能更轻松夹亚洲版套装中包取食物；还有时髦的筷架、优雅的餐叉，以及与该系列独一无二的汤碗相配的汤勺，共二十四件餐具皆收纳于经典的 Christofle 镜面蛋壳内。 Christofle 与香港 Ocean Table 的主厨 Jaakko Sorsa，在 MOOD 桌的摆设而定。四合之际走进喜爱的餐厅时，来自好友的热烈欢迎。华的下午茶；用餐前享用佳肴时的碰杯声；于暮光桌时刻：慵懒、睡到自然醒的周日上午；悠闲又奢美食之旅，带领用餐者体验一天当中各个诱人的餐精湛烹饪技巧的启发下，精心策划一场心境蛋与早午餐的内容以醒来的时间、在场同伴与餐 Jaakko 的北海道扇贝搭配飞鱼卵和 Ōra King 鲑鱼片，承装在 Christofle Albi 奶酪、圣马尔扎诺番茄、芝麻菜，以及面包盘上，与之相配的餐盘则装了以清爽的布拉塔简一系列 Laudemio Frescobaldi 橄榄油制成的沙拉。MOOD 心境蛋成为享受这欢聚时光的完美之选。Christofle Vertigo 菲柠檬、猫眼葡萄及火龙果，一旁的碗中摆放新鲜之环系列的中央摆盘，放着美味的威廉斯梨、阿玛舞动 PRESENTED BY CHRISTOFLE BY KATE NICHOLSON• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN The Christofle Vertigo centerpiece makes a stylish focal point for a luscious array of fresh fruits. Christofle Vertigo舞动之环系列的中央摆盘让各种甘美香甜的水果成为视觉焦点。 for the earth | TK | 23

MASTER SILVERSMITH SINCE 1830, Christofle is a pioneer in innovation, constantly evolving to meet the aspiring desires of today. It was this ongoing drive for discovery in the art of rede fined table settings that led to the birth of the MOOD collection in 2015 and to the collection’s most recent additions embodied in this year’s MOOD Asia release.

In a tribute to Asian gastronomy, MOOD Asia unveils designs that include fully silver-plated chopsticks with two-level ridges for better food grip, stylish chopstick rests, graceful dessert forks, and soup spoons that coordinate with the collection’s bespoke bowls. The new twenty-four-piece flatware collection is contained in an iconic Christofle egg-shaped case.

In an inspired collaboration of Asian-influenced design and consummate culinary skill, Christofle and Sorsa, execu tive chef at Ocean Table in Hong Kong, have carefully curated an epicurean itinerary that takes the diner through a day of tantalizing table moments: a languorous, sleep-late Sunday, a leisurely and luxurious afternoon cuppa, the appetizing clink of glasses before dining, the warm welcome of old friends on stepping from a twilit street into a favorite restaurant. Brunch is defined by the hour of awakening, the company that are present, and the table that is laid. Chef Sorsa’s sashimi of Hokkaido scallops with flying fish roe and Ōra King salmon is pre sented on a Christofle Albi bread plate, while a matching dinner plate offers a refreshing salad of burrata di Puglia, San Marzano tomatoes, rocket, and Laudemio Frescobaldi olive oil. For such a moment of

Dessert is a slice of cocoa cotton sponge cake, and accompanying all is Krug Champagne nestled in a Vertigo Champagne cooler. Afternoon tea, a sweet escape in Hong Kong’s corner of the world, offers fine chocolates on a square tray complementing the geometry of Christofle’s Silver Time tea set. An Albi pastry stand showcases delights with provenances near and far: Korean strawberry tart, opera cake, and delicate French macarons, all sure to pair deliciously with TWG Orient Express tea, replete with rare wild berries and subtle notes of berga mot. And if a cup of coffee is the choice to share with friends, Mood Coffee, a set of six espresso spoons, is the perfect accompaniment for moments of warm camaraderie. In France, appetizers are as essential as dinner itself. And essential to such a moment is the MOOD Party Tray, one of Chef Sorsa’s favorites for practicality and playfulness. He adorns this rosette of Limoges por celain ramekins with foie gras, pork paté with ibérico ham, grilled wildcaught octopus, smoked Italian anchovies, vibrant tuna-stuffed peppers, fresh-as-can-be asparagus, and a sumptuous wedge of brie with black truffle. In the Christofle Vertigo wine server is Sauternes Château d’Arche 2009, Grand Cru Classé. And finally arrives the hour for dinner. Although the offerings may vary in different parts of the world, a traditional Hong Kong soup of chicken and mushrooms fills each Christofle Malmaison Chinese soup bowl, with its complementary spoon beside it. A Brittany blue lobster, Sichuan style, is presented on a set of Malmaison silver plates. Wagyu M5 oyster blade on a bed of pumpkin purée, with braised Italian greens and sauce Périgord, is temptingly served on a Malmaison gold dinner plate and Guilloche underplate. The collection’s dessert and bread plates feature roasted Hokkaido scallop, trout roe with chive sauce, and beluga caviar. Off to the side, glinting opulently, is Christofle’s ovoid MOOD Gold case, plated in 24-carat yellow gold. With its pure, contemporary lines, the MOOD collection is as refined as it is versatile and offers cutlery and tableware that effort lessly adapt to elegant everyday life and to dining styles from formal to casual. “Both Christofle and Ocean Table have a passion for creating unforgettable sharing experiences,” says Maude Delopoulos, Christofle’s regional marketing director for Greater China and Southeast Asia.

gathering, MOOD by Christofle is the perfect choice. A Christofle Vertigo centerpiece displays luscious Williams pears, Amalfi lemons, Pione grapes, and pink dragon fruit, with fresh berries alongside in a separate bowl.

“Together, they celebrate convivial moments around good food and beautiful tablescapes.”

莓果。甜点是巧克力棉花蛋糕，而在 Vertigo 舞盘上装了各式各样的精美巧克力，与之约，享受甜蜜悠闲、远离烦嚣的时光。方形托动之环系列冰桶里的则是库克香槟。在香港一隅的午后，宾客受邀来赴下午茶 Christofle 的 Silver Time 银色时光系列茶具的几何形状相得益彰。Albi 与及精致的马卡龙。不管选择哪件甜点，绝对都能近驰名的甜点，包括韩国草莓塔、歌剧院蛋糕以简一系列点心架上，则放满各种远 TWG 生莓果与微妙的佛手柑香气，清新怡人。东方快车茶相配。这款茶带有稀有的野 MOOD Coffee 心境蛋咖啡勺套装，包括 6 用餐仪式，而咖啡勺，为下午茶时光增添几分时髦趣味。只精致小巧的在法国，开胃菜与晚餐同样是不可或缺的 Jaakko 最爱的 MOOD 利干奶酪来妆点小瓷盘。鲔鱼甜椒、新鲜的芦笋，以及浓郁的黑松露布腿猪肉馅饼、烤章鱼、烟熏意大利鯷鱼、爽口的设计更是活泼有趣。主厨选用鹅肝酱、伊比利火享受开胃菜时刻的理想之选，因为它不仅实用，派对托盘是 Christofle Vertigo 舞动之环系列侍酒架中放置的，则是迷人的 2009 年 Sauternes Château d’Arche 区不同，料理也会有所不同。在这里，每个入座享用晚餐的时刻终于到来。因应地列级名庄葡萄酒。 Christofle Malmaison 都装着传统港式蘑菇鸡汤，一旁则是配套的汤勺。马勒梅松城堡系列汤碗里 Malmaison 列塔尼蓝龙虾，而和牛马勒梅松城堡系列银盘上的是川味布 M5 佐炖意大利蔬菜和佩里格酱，摆放在嫩肩肉衬有南瓜泥， Malmaison 马勒梅松城堡系列金质餐盘与 Guilloche 鳟卵配香葱酱和该系列的甜点与面包盘上摆放烤北海道扇贝、虹底盘上。 Beluga 鱼子酱。外层镀有 24K 黄金的 Christofle 镜面蛋壳，则在一隅闪耀光芒。 MOOD 格。对优雅的日常生活与各种正式或休闲的餐饮风套餐餐具不仅精致，而且也相当实用，能轻松应心境蛋系列拥有纯粹、现代化的线条， Christofle 大中华和东南亚地区的市场总监 Maude Delopoulos 表示：「Christofle 和 Ocean Table 聚时刻里。」绕在美食与独特的餐桌布置中，陶醉在欢快的相都热衷于创造难忘的分享体验，让宾客围 The art of the table is the essence of Christofle’s expertise. Each piece in its collections, from traditional to contemporary, is an elegant complement to any table. Christofle让餐桌充满艺术感。从经典到现代风格，每一件单品都为餐桌增添了优雅的光泽。 24 TK for the earth

PRESENTED BY CHRISTOFLE The sweet escape of afternoon tea becomes a special event with Christofle’s Silver Time tea set. 由Christofle的Silver Time 时光系列茶具相伴，享受远银色离烦嚣的甜蜜下午茶时光。

THE ROOTS OF THE LEGEND that would become Hennessy reach back to 1765 when Richard Hennessy, who was in the army of French king Louis XV, decided to take his own path in life by becoming apprenticed to a merchant in an emerging field that captivated his interest, the trade in eaux-de-vie, or fine French brandies. Soon afterward, he made the decision to devote his life to mastering the art of making the finest Cognacs. His son James was responsible for forg ing the partnership with the Fillioux family of master blenders, a collaboration that catapulted Hennessy into fame, and soon the illustrious Cognac from Hennessy started flowing to the royal courts of Europe and beyond. Today, more than two hundred fifty years and eight generations later, the Hennessy and Fillioux families still work together, bonded by their common history. The house where the original Hennessy Cognac was made stands to this day at its original address in Cognac on the banks of the Charente River. As a tribute to its centuries of expertise and acclaim, Maison Hennessy has taken its most exceptional blend yet, Richard Hennessy, and unveiled this remark able expression in a newly created Baccarat crystal decanter accompanied by luxury ritual accessories of glasses, a fusil, and a tray, all designed in a daringly contemporary style by world-renowned architect Daniel Libeskind. Richard Hennessy Cognac has been crafted from the finest eaux-de-vie in the Founder’s Cellar on the Hennessy family estate and exclu sively bottled in a limited quantity of just twelve tierçons, or barrels, that are handcrafted from French oak in Hennessy’s own workshop. Eauxde-vie with the rarest, most aromatic qualities have been selected, along with some remarkable younger eaux-de-vie, to create an exceptional and intense masterpiece. On the palate, Richard Hennessy is confident and assertive, surprising the senses with its potent and spicy taste, its aromatic notes of leather and candied fruits, and its gratifyingly extended finish.

BY JENKINSLUCY 26 TK for the earth

DESIGN Hennessey creates a masterful Cognac as an enduring tribute to its founder. a magicparticular 几何新装致敬传奇

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And now, this extraordinary Cognac, in a living tribute to founder Richard Hennessy’s visionary legacy, finds a contemporary incar nation in a correspondingly bold and graceful masterpiece from Daniel Libeskind. As an internationally acclaimed figure in architecture and urban design, Libeskind is recognized for evoking cultural memory through precise and intriguing geometries. By taking inspiration from a diversity of artistic fields, including music, philosophy, and literature, he creates unique architecture that is both resonant and sustain able. “I relish bringing a myriad of ideas from different areas to the design process,” he says, “because I believe it elevates and brings new meaning to design.”

正如建筑，干邑具有复杂性和一定的结构。” Daniel

“There

In this, his first collaboration with Maison Hennessy, Libeskind starts with the shape of a classic Cognac bottle and masterfully contrasts the striking geometric outer form in Baccarat crystal with inner organic curves, reflecting the energy and complexity of the Cognac con tained within. “There is a complexity, process, and structure to this Cognac, just like there is in architecture. I am inspired by the interplay of history and the future – a particular magic hap pens when the two come together.” is a complexity, process, and structure to this Cognac, just like there is in architecture. Libeskind

PAGE)PRECEDING+(3HENNESSYOFCOURTESY 28 TK for the earth

成就轩尼诗传奇的起点，可追溯回 1765 年。当年，创始人 Richard Hennessy 为一位商人的学徒。生命之水，的军队，就执意要成为自己人生的主人，为此，他成仍效力于法国国王路易十五 eaux-de-vie 酿造顶级干邑的工艺而奉献一生。涉足这个当时的新兴领域。不久之后，他决定为追求国精品白兰地。他对这款佳酿的贸易深感兴趣，于是，是法他的儿子 James 及各地间流传。举成名，轩尼诗出品的顶级干邑迅速地在欧洲的皇室大师费尔沃家族的合作关系。这次的合作让轩尼诗一肩负重责大任，建立了与酿酒 250 公司推出至今最为罕见的巨作邑区夏朗德河畔的原址之上。连结。当初酿造轩尼诗干邑的大宅，迄今仍矗立于干费尔沃家族仍携手合作，共同经历的种种让他们紧密多年过去的今天，历经八代相传，轩尼诗与为了向品牌多年以来的工艺与盛名致敬，轩尼诗 Richard Hennessy，并搭配全新设计的 Baccarat 计，则一概出自享誉全球的建筑师与托盘等配件。酒瓶及配件柔和而大胆的当代风格设独一无二的干邑佳酿，同时配备奢华玻璃杯、取酒器水晶酒瓶，向世人展示这款 Daniel Libeskind 之手。 Richard Hennessy 创始人酒窖，独立装瓶，限量而成，这些生命之水储存在位于轩尼诗家族庄园的是由最顶级的生命之水混酿 12 个 tierçons 与伦比的匠心巨作。部分出色的年轻生命之水混酿，创造出风味强烈、无造。轩尼诗选用最稀有且香气馥郁的生命之水，与一这些橡木桶是在轩尼诗制桶工场采用法国橡木手工制橡木桶， Richard Hennessy 以及悠长的余韵都为感官带来刺激与惊喜。道十足，其强烈又辛辣的韵味、皮革与蜜饯的香气，口感清晰、劲为了向 Richard 的远见卓识致敬，Daniel Libeskind 人物，佳酿赋予当代感。身为建筑与城市设计界的全球知名以同样兼具大胆与优雅的杰作为这款传世 Daniel 会升华，并为设计带来新的意义。」程中，这对我来说是一种享受，因为我相信这些想法性。他说：「把来自不同领域的无数想法带到设计过出独特的建筑，作品在引发共鸣的同时又能兼顾永续艺术领域，包括音乐、哲学与文学，并让他得以创造人寻味的几何图形唤起文化记忆。他的灵感来自各个最广为人知的，是他善于透过精确且耐这是他首次与轩尼诗公司合作。 Daniel 邑酒瓶的外型着手，以独具慧眼的手法，将从经典干 Baccarat 就会产生独特的魅力。」与未来相互作用的启发，也就是两者结合在一起时，如建筑，干邑具有复杂性和一定的结构。我受到历史现出乘载其中的干邑佳酿所展现的活力与层次。「正水晶引人注目的几何外型与内部有机的曲线对比，展 DESIGN Daniel Libeskind for the earth | TK | 29

ALTHOUGH REACHING the ancient city of Dunhuang in Northwest China isn’t easy, it’s defi nitely worth the journey, whether by train, bus, or private transport. The town, occupying a verdant oasis in the middle of the otherwise arid GansuXinjiang desert region, was once the place where European and Asian civilizations met along the famed Silk Road. Today, people visit to admire the centuries-old murals adorning the Mogao Grottoes, listen to the wind whipping through the Singing Sand Dunes, or simply take in the unrivaled desert sunrises and sunsets.The place to stay for such a oncein-a-lifetime adventure is Jangala Dunhuang, an independent five-star boutique hotel opened in 2021 and promptly granted a coveted Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) label. According to SLH Senior Vice President Asia Pacific Mark Wong, “Jangala Dunhuang shares the strong brand values that SLH has held since its inception – an independent spirit and a community-centric, storyteller approach, as well as our ultimate belief that small is beautiful and at the same time big on travel experiences.” The property, spanning ten thousand square meters, features twenty-five stylishly minimal ist suites with furniture from leading names like Bonaldospa, Gallotti & Radice of Italy, and Tradition of Denmark. There’s also a theater fea turing a water landscape and a serene meditative space.Since “Jangala” is Sanskrit for “desert garden,” it follows that nature is experienced everywhere. Guests entering the lobby, called the Living Room, are bathed in natural light from dramatic “tic-tac-toe” skylights. Water features throughout the space contrast dramatically with desert vistas through floor-to-ceiling windows. 赏沙漠上无与伦比的日落与日出盛景。的壁画，聆听风吹过沙丘的鸣沙声，欣绝，只为瞻仰莫高窟中已有数百年历史上交会相遇之处。如今游客依然络绎不片绿洲，更曾是欧亚文明在著名的丝路的甘肃与新疆沙漠地区，敦煌俨然是一工具，敦煌都是值得一游之地。在干旱但无论是乘坐火车、巴士还是私人交通尽管中国西北部的敦煌古城不易企及，到敦煌进行一生一次的探险之旅，五星级精品酒店敦煌碧玥酒店将是理想的下榻之所。酒店于

DESIGN BY KATE NICHOLSON

2021 得全球奢华精品酒店（年开业后，立刻获 SLH）认证。根据 SLH 亚太区高级副总裁黄坤德介绍：「 SLH 用拥有二十五间时尚简约的套房，并选概念上，敦煌碧玥酒店跟我们不谋而合。」美，但旅行体验要越宏大越好。在这些然还有我们的终极理念，也就是小即是以说故事的方式来营造出整个氛围。当的品牌价值：独立精神、以社群为中心，自成立以来始终秉持强大敦煌碧玥酒店占地一万平方米， Bonaldospa、意大利的 Gallotti & Radice，以及丹麦的 Tradition 剧院，和一个宁静的冥想空间。牌的家具。此外，酒店内还有一个水景等知名品酒店名称「 Jangala 「沙漠花园」，所以酒店各处都散发着大」在梵语中意指自然的气息。进入大堂后，宾客会沐浴在井字梁（井字型天窗）的滂薄自然光中。空间的水井与落地窗外的大漠风光形成强烈的对比。每个房间都能从内部或从相邻的天井看到外围沙丘的辽阔景致。宾客能在酒店员工的带领下，到周围的荒野游览，同时也能参加包括日出瑜伽在内的多项户外活动。酒店的设计符合更超越了国家环境保护标准，酒店内有超过七成的电器是 Jangala Dunhuang resort offers an oasis of sustainable luxury in a spectacular wilderness setting. desert garden 沙漠花园 30 TK for the earth

At sunrise or sunset, the views from eco-resort Jangala Dunhuang in the Gansu-Xinjiang desert region are stunning. 美，不管是旭日初升还是敦煌碧玥酒店的景观优夕阳西下，都摄人心魄。 for the earth TK | 31

总监材料与原物料、减少运输所产生的碳。销售与市场开发商只与当地高品质的供应商合作，来采购基本第一座大型油脂分离与回收设备。在施工过程中，靠最新的节能技术来供电。餐厅的厨房拥有敦煌市 Roy Wang 百分之十的食材取自现场的有机花园。的甘肃特色。目前，餐厅提供的所有料理中，约有厚的西式蔬菜冷汤风味，同时又具有以西瓜为主角各国宾客的味蕾。比方说，招牌西瓜冷汤就带有浓提供当地佳肴，并重新设计地方特色料理，来挑动店也打算改为种植酿酒葡萄。并由当地受过培训的农民负责栽种看顾。此外，酒萄烘干室。占地二十公顷的葡萄园种满鲜食葡萄，空心墙面的设计灵感，就是来自秦家湾村的传统葡萄是该地区的主要作物，因此酒店入口处亮眼的半敦煌碧玥酒店的建造过程使用大量木材与砖块。葡近村庄提供免费服务，例如墙面粉刷与设施清洁。」农村重建，包括投资翻修酒店附近的道路，并为邻表示：「酒店积极参与当地社区的遵照当地已有数千年历史的永续建筑工法，酒店的香芸餐厅和位于顶层的幻酒吧致力于 Roy 表示：「这个现代私人度假胜地与 SLH 务意识和文化传承等理念。」永续精神相互呼应，同时也符合环境保护、社区服的 ← To harmonize with the desert landscape outside, the stylish suites are minimalist in design. 酒店套房的设计时尚简约，融合外围的壮丽沙漠景观。 ↑ Alfresco vegetableproperty’soverlookingdiningtheworkingvineyardandgardens. 顶层露天位置可俯瞰酒店的葡萄园和菜园。 Silk & Spice, the resort’s on-site fusion restaurant, offers an impressive fine beverage collection. 香芸餐厅的藏酒丰富，令人印象深刻。 32 TK for the earth

The hotel restaurant, Silk & Spice, and the rooftop Mirage Bar focus on local delicacies rei magined to tempt contemporary international palates. The signature cold watermelon soup, for instance, enhances the Western taste for chilled vegetable soups with watermelon processed Gansu-style. Currently, about ten percent of what diners sample at the restaurant comes from onsite organic gardens. “This modern private retreat resonates with SLH ’s values of sustainability,” says Wang, “as well as of environmental, community, and cul tural preservation.” A central courtyard reflects local Dunhuang sustainable architectural practices used for millennia. nearby

酒店的建造遵照当地已有数千年历史的永续建筑工法，图中的庭院便是一例。 “The hotel is heavily involved in the rural renewal of the local community, including investing in the renovation of roads near the hotel and providing free services like wall painting and cleaning facilities in the

Following sustainable architectural practices used locally for millennia, Jangala Dunhuang makes extensive use of wood and brick. With grapes a primary crop in the area, the semihollow walls highlighting the hotel entrance are inspired by traditional Qinjiawan Village grape drying rooms. And an original twenty-acre vineyard planted with table grapes is staffed by locally trained agricultural workers. Plans are also afoot to adapt the vines to wine grapes.

The property has been designed to exceed national environmental preservation standards, with the latest energy-saving technology pow ering 70 percent of the hotel’s appliances. The restaurant kitchen has Dunhuang’s first largescale grease separation and recovery equipment. During construction, the developers worked only with high-quality local suppliers for basic and raw materials to reduce carbon generated by transpor tation. “The hotel is heavily involved in the rural renewal of the local community,” says Director of Sales and Marketing Roy Wang, “including investing in the renovation of roads near the hotel and providing free services like wall painting and cleaning facilities in the nearby village.”

village. 酒店积极参与当地社区的农村重建，包括投资翻修酒店附近的道路，并为邻近村庄提供免费服务，例如墙面粉刷与设施清洁。” Roy Wang DESIGN PAGE)PRECEDING+(4DUNHUANGJANGALAOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 33

Every room comes with an expansive view of the surrounding dunes from inside or from the adjoining patio. Excursions into the surrounding wilderness are led by hotel staff, and outdoor activities abound, including sunrise yoga.

DESIGN

masu （物图纹，大型木质屏风则呈现出精细的「组子」上的纺织品带有山景和以挂毯为创作灵感的植餐厅内的家具也述说着日本的文化故事：座椅）。 kumiko 计。设计团队再度与灯光大师关永权合作，雕但真正让这些装潢大放异彩的是灯光设）纹样。 For the Japanese-themed interiors of God of Teppanyaki, Steve Leung Design Group makes the most of natural materials and inventive lighting effects. nature aglow 自然映耀 Dramatic lighting accents the interior’s gold and dark hues. 匠心独具的灯光设计使黑金相映的装潢大放异彩。 (2)GROUPDESIGNLEUNGSTEVEOFCOURTESYMA,LIT 34 TK for the earth

A DEEP REVERENCE FOR NATURE has long been part of Japanese culture, from the ancient animistic worship practices of Ko-Shintō to the popular concept of shinrin-yoku, or “forest bathing.” Densely forested, Japan has developed crafts that embrace natural materials like wood and plant fibers as well as clay and stone. And it is this close connection to the earth’s abundance that served as inspiration for the team at Steve Leung Design Group (SLD) when developing an aesthetic of understated luxury for God of Teppanyaki, a new Hong Kong restaurant located in Causeway Bay’s Sino Plaza and helmed by Head Chef Po Ka Hung. God of Teppanyaki boasts a six-hundred-square-meter floor plan divided into areas catering to different aspects of Japanese cuisine: a sake bar; a sushi bar with hand-painted mountain backdrop; a tasting room for wine, sake, and cigars; and, approached through a bridging passageway, a series of private teppanyaki rooms that can be configured to accommodate from four to twenty-plus diners. Sliding partitions maximize the layout’s spatial flexibility, one of the client’s core considerations. “In the postpandemic era, people want increased privacy and exclusiveness,” notes 的一种传统木质箱型容器清酒吧台以日本枫木打造，歌颂喝清酒所用的黑胶唱片纹路，底部则是锯齿形的木板墙。厅贴有奢华的金色壁纸，墙身的材质带有特殊出现在最大的私人铁板烧贵宾室。贵宾室的门为主要材料，而接待处上方的叠级天花也同样了这种雅致悦目的装饰风格。门面设计以烧杉的深色调形成鲜明对比，整个餐厅空间都融合清酒吧台的深黑色花岗岩，明亮的金色与稳重营造出具有现代气息的别致氛围。寂美学，利用简约的元素配合华丽的视觉效果，享乐，但他们想要安全地享乐。」是一种新型的用餐体验，代，人们对隐私和专属感的需求愈来愈高。这团的首席创意总监庄超峰指出：「在后疫情时置是餐厅设计的核心考量之一。梁志天设计集屏，可容纳四至二十多位宾客。这样的灵活设一系列私人铁板烧贵宾室，经过设置活动隔日本美食的不同面向。穿过桥接走廊后，则有专享美酒和雪茄的品酒室等不同用餐区，展现局，以清酒吧、装饰手绘山脉背景墙的寿司吧、舵的新餐厅呈现出低调奢华的美学。密切关系为灵感来源，使这间由总厨布家雄掌志天设计集团旗下团队以人与丰饶大地之间的信和广场的板神铁板烧日本料理的装潢时，梁然素材为原料的手工艺。设计位于香港铜锣湾发展出采用木材和植物纤维、黏土和石头等自体现出这种理念。日本的森林覆盖率高，早已泛灵崇拜习俗，到热门的「森林浴」概念，都日本文化蕴含着对自然的深刻崇敬，从古代的板神占地六百平方米，巧妙利用空间布也就是人们依然想要团队大量运用天然材质，呈现日本的侘从餐厅入口处小窗闪耀的金色光芒，到「枡」（

The largest teppanyaki room features dramatic ceiling lighting inspired by traditional Japanese parasols that convey a cinematic effect. 最大的私人铁板烧贵宾室的天花板灯具采用和伞造型设计，使空间更具电影感。

The amongrelaxedrestaurants,traditionaldininghorseshoe-shapedtable,notseeninteppanyakiencouragesinteractionpatrons. 让食客轻松交流。餐厅并不常见，更能马蹄形餐桌在传统铁板 ↑ Nature abounds, from the image of Mt. Fuji to a wooden screen replete with traditional kumiko patterns. 餐空间洋溢大自然气息。子」纹样的木质屏风，使用富士山景及呈现传统「组 ↗ The SLD team collaborated with lighting master Tino Kwan to uplift the dining experience. 效果，提升用餐体验。权合作打造精彩的光影设计团队与灯光大师关永

Another challenge for the SLD design team was constructing God of Teppanyaki in the midst of the pandemic, under working conditions that were uniquely demanding but also end lessly rewarding. “It’s quite satisfying meeting a deadline under such conditions,” says Lau, “and also managing to create the Japanese aesthetic and the ambiance that we wanted.”

DESIGN SLD Chief Creative Officer Chong Chiu Fung. “It’s part of the new dining experience – people still want to entertain, but they want to do it safely.”

A palette of brilliant gold contrasted with dark hues unifies the decor, from a golden glint shining through the tiny window at the restaurant’s entrance to the deep blackish granite of the sake bar counter. The facade headlines charred wood, and the bullet-shaped ceiling fix tures above the host desk are repeated in the largest of the private teppanyaki rooms, which features golden wallpaper in the foyer and walls of textured vinyl with serrated timber panels. The sake bar, fashioned from Japanese maple, is an ode to masu, box-like wooden vessels tra ditionally used for drinking sake. The furniture too tells a Japanese story: textiles on the chairs feature mountainscapes and tapestry-inspired botanical designs, and a large wooden screen presents traditional kumiko patterns.

But what truly makes these interiors shine is the lighting design. The SLD team again col laborated with lighting master Tino Kwan to craft systems that elevate the dining experience and accentuate the nature-inspired features. Tiny spotlights at each seat in the sake bar illumi nate guests’ glasses as they drink. A hidden wall-washer highlights the hand-painted backdrop of the sushi bar, and carefully placed downlights create the best visibility for appreciating the food – and taking photos of it. In some spaces, light is dappled to suggest sunlight passing through leafy boughs.

“We worked together to create the feeling of being in a natural environment,” notes Design Director Hester Lau. “Tino gets very specific, focusing on things like how much light is absorbed by a screen and testing different modes to find the mood we like best. It’s quite large for a teppan yaki restaurant, so the spatial audit and planning was challenging. How do we arrange each area to ensure that it’s a reasonable size and scale while still fulfilling the customer’s requirements?”

照射出斑驳的光影，流露出阳光穿透繁茂枝叶的感觉。设的崁灯则创造最佳能见度，让宾客既能鉴赏美食，也方便为食物拍照。某些空间的灯光还会都有小型嵌灯，在宾客品酒时照亮酒杯。隐藏式投射灯突显出寿司吧的手绘背景墙，而细心装琢出精彩的光影效果，不仅提升用餐体验，也展现出以自然为题的特色。清酒吧的每个座位上设计总监 Hester Lau 的工作环境虽然耗时费力，却也带来无穷的成就感。同时又能满足顾客要求，在空间审查及规划上都非常具有挑战性。」板烧餐厅来说，这里的空间相当大，该如何安排每个用餐区，以确保各区有适当的大小和规模，他着重于有多少光会被屏风吸收等问题，而且会测试不同设置来找到我们最喜欢的气氛。以铁指出：「我们一起努力创造置身自然环境的感觉。永权的目标很明确，对于设计团队而言，宽敞的餐厅空间并不是唯一的挑战。板神是在疫情期间装潢的，这样 Hester 时打造出日本美学及期望中的氛围，真是令人既欣喜又感动。」说：「能在这种环境下如期完工，同 “We worked together to create the feeling of being in a natural environment 我们一起努力创造置身自然环境的感觉。” Hester Lau (3)GROUPDESIGNLEUNGSTEVEOFCOURTESYMA,LIT for the earth | TK | 37

The restaurant’s design is one of sheer simplicity combined with opulent visual richness. It generously employs natural materials, making subtle reference to Japan’s wabi-sabi ethos to achieve a “rustic-chic” ambience with contemporary flair.

ESTABLISHED IN 1984 and refined through the years to rank among Macau’s finest Chinese restaurants, award-winning Kam Lai Heen cel ebrates the cultural richness of its cuisine by revitalizing an array of classic heritageAmongdishes.them are Four Treasures Roast Duck, Beggar’s Chicken (also known as Flame Rich Chicken), Braised Fish Soup Tanka Style, and Pan-Fried Seafood with Yellow Hair Chicken. The recipes feature carefully chosen ingredients, including many that are sustainably sourced or near-forgotten. Four Treasures Roast Duck highlights four distinct flavor combinations of varying intensity. To provide the full experience of the duck meat’s rich ness, it is first served with caviar and foie gras. Next, it is paired with sourginger-preserved eggs and then with black truffle, progressively bringing the flavor intensity to a climax. The last of the variations forgoes any con diment, allowing the duck’s inherent natural flavor to linger on the palate.

Another classic high point of the menu is Honey-Barbequed Iberico Pork Collar, prepared with the restaurant’s secret sauce and cooking method that pay tribute to an old Hong Kong recipe. It goes through hours of a slow-smoked process over walnut wood before it is served to perfection.

金丽轩中餐厅于 1984 「海鲜煎三黄鸡件」。箇中选用了可持续及怀旧南富贵鸡的「叫化鸡」、「蜑家焖鱼汤」，以及粵菜破局重生的「四宝片皮鸭」、又名火焰江艺，呈献最经典著名的粵菜。当中包括让传统概念粤菜，为经典的古法厨艺注入现代气息。开业，以独特的饮食文化理念打造独具特色的精，是城中的殿堂级粵菜食府。餐厅最近重新年开业，多年来精益求粵菜文化博大精深，金丽轩秉承粵菜珍食材，把几近失传的经典菜式重现。四宝片皮鸭以「一鸭四吃」的形式糅合了多种滋味。食客可先将鸭肉搭配鱼子酱及鹅肝酱品尝，尽情感受鸭肉的丰腴。接下来夹酸姜皮蛋化腻；紧接就是黑松露，再次让味蕾爆炸。最后一道属原味，好让食客味蕾感受鸭肉最自然的味道。蜜汁西班牙黑毛豬叉烧为另一驰名古早菜式，厨艺团隊以精湛的传统手艺保存这道美馔的原味精髓。叉烧以胡桃木烟熏数 Recently reopened Kam Lai Heen at Artyzen Grand Lapa features a menu of time-honored dishes prepared with contemporary flair. a heritage of flavors 古今风味 Flame Rich Chicken 火焰江南富贵鸡 38 TK for the earth

Beggar’s Chicken is a famous dish from the Jiangsu province with more than a century of history dating back to the Qing dynasty and the reign of Emperor Qianlong. Kam Lai Heen brings back this elegant and sophisticated dish, prepared with meticulous culinary skill. The chicken is wrapped in layers of lotus leaf and mud and slow-cooked for hours before it is dramatically served with the clay-breaking ceremony. Guests will be captivated by this sensory dining experience, from scent to sound to the last artful bite.

The culinary philosophy of Kam Lai Heen’s expert team is con stantly forward-looking: The Cantonese culinary legacy can survive and remain relevant only if chefs continually adapt with the times.

飨体验。的技术、食材及烹调手法，缔造极致完美的餐献舌尖上的惊喜；餐厅重开，团隊将利用最新寻找新可能。化故事的同时，也需要努力了解客人心意及不断菜尚在进化中，在守护传统风味、借菜式诉说文休，粤菜传统才得以延续下去。他们相信当代粤泥壳，叫化鸡继而破壳而出，实为一场感官盛宴。同时为饗客带来仪式感，在享用前需以木槌敲开至荷叶的清香和鸡肉的鲜香融为一体。这道佳肴合：花鸡以荷叶及荷塘泥包裹，以低温烤制多时要把历史文化烙印舌尖，需要古法厨艺的完美配故可追溯至清朝乾隆皇帝时代，已有过百年历史。原始风味，向老香港的怀旧菜致敬。小时，再配搭秘制酱料，以保留富有香江情怀的叫化鸡属充满传奇的江苏名菜，其美食典厨艺团隊相信唯有厨人孜孜以求、永不言一直以來，团隊凭借创意灵感，为客人呈 One of the skilled chefs is ready for the clay breaking ceremony 主厨准备敲开包裹着叫化鸡的泥壳 PRESENTED BY ARTYZEN GRAND LAPA MACAU Honey-BarbequedIbericoPorkCollar 蜜汁西班牙黑毛豬叉烧 (3)KITDADO for the earth | TK | 39

Contemporary Cantonese cuisine is always evolving, and, although it is important to give traditional flavors and the cultural and historical aspects of dishes their due, we also have to seek to understand the minds of our customers and constantly explore new approaches.

While we may have culinary aspirations similar to those of decades gone by, new technologies, new ingredients, and new meth ods apply today.

Chef André Chiang invites diners on an excitingly flavorful voyage of discovery. surprising sichuan 赏味百川 Signature Snack 川江点

江月』和其他川菜餐厅最大的不同。」当下表现那一个当下的最好。这样的理念，是『川江振诚大师说：「川菜应该要与时俱进，在每一个 2019 计，也特别使用柔美的渐层色调，处处都能体现味觉体验在川菜中可谓是前所未有。连菜单的设客在品尝料理前先「想像」料理的滋味，这样的系列料理利用人类感官的「联觉」机制，邀请食料理的想像，推出了全新菜单「赏味」。「赏味」两位大厨运用了他们的厨艺知识与技术，结合对带来连连惊喜。而如今，创意厨艺总监江振诚和手法，赋予经典川菜新生命，每一道菜都为食客于澳门永利皇宫开幕。川江月运用创新而细腻的年，江振诚的米其林二星餐厅「川江月」新任行政总厨范健华在保留川菜的正统风味的同时，也致力于发掘料理创新的可能性，创作令一众食客叹为观止的精品。除了既有的川江月「经典」菜单，到主厨的巧思。「赏味」系列料理使用来自各国的顶级特色食材，并以现代厨艺手法烹调，却不失传统川菜的风味，令人相当惊艳。江振诚说：「川菜的传统味型让我们保留了川菜的灵魂。这些味型存在至今已超过五十年，甚至长达一百年之久，且会一直BY LUCY MORGAN Culinary Director Chef André Chiang 创意厨艺总监江振诚大师 (PORTRAIT)COTAIPALACEWYNNOFCOURTESYMOON,SICHUANOFCOURTESYTANG,ANTHONY for the earth TK | 41

The two culinary masters have recently combined their knowledge, imaginative powers, and technical expertise to launch Sichuan Moon’s new Discovery menu alongside the restaurant’s Classic version. Employing beautiful menu cards in a spectrum of colors, the Discovery menu offers a selection of brilliantly crafted dishes that bring a synesthetic dimension to modern Sichuan cuisine by inviting diners to imagine each one before it arrives at the table.While the collection of stunningly presented specialties fea tures the finest of internationally sourced ingredients prepared with a range of avant-garde cooking techniques, it remains astonishingly faithful to traditional Sichuan flavor profiles. “We must retain the soul and essence of Sichuan cuisine through these classic profiles,” insists Chiang. “They existed fifty – a hundred – years ago and will continue

TASTING NEWS

“SICHUAN CUISINE must keep pace with the times,” says Chef André Chiang. “It must be the best in every moment. And I think that is the most significant difference about Sichuan Moon.” When Chiang’s two-Michelin-star restaurant opened at Macau’s Wynn Palace in 2019, it astonished guests with its skillful and remark ably inventive interpretations of classic Sichuan recipes. Today, Culinary Director Chiang and the restaurant’s new executive chef, Wilson Fam, continue to dazzle diners with dishes that push the boundaries of modernity while retaining the authentic flavors of Sichuan’s time-honored cuisine.

A case in point is the way Chiang and Fam have transformed chicken mousse and consommé, usually considered a simple street food snack, into a luxurious modern classic that shines as a high light of the Discovery menu. Sichuan Moon’s Truffle with Traditional Chicken Mousse and Consommé teams the richest stock with clas sic Sichuan chicken mousse and then exalts the dish with white truffle bird’s nest confit, ground black truffle, and aged Iberico ham from Spain. “The chicken stock is directly steamed from the whole chicken,” reveals Chiang. “Not a drop of water is added nor do we add any salt – the ham provides all of the salty and umami flavors. “We never use an ingredient just because it’s costly or to make an appealing presentation,” he says. “Every ingredient has a meaning on the plate that is precisely expressed through Chef Fam’s mastery of flavor profiles and cooking times. What would it be like if I were to eat Sichuan food in a palace today? I think it would be like this.”

现的面貌。」享用川菜，它会是什么样子？我想就是川江月呈都有其用意。我常常想像，如果今天我在皇宫里及烹调技术的巧手诠释下，每一样食材在料理中丽，而让食材入菜。在范健华总厨对味道的掌握有额外用盐调味，咸鲜味全来自火腿的风味。」滴水，完全是由全鸡熬制而成，原汁原味。汤头没的陪衬。江振诚说：「这道菜所使用的鸡汤不加一露、伊比利亚陈年西班牙火腿等，作为主角鸡豆花浓郁的鸡汤为基底，用油封白松露燕窝、现磨黑松味蕾焦点，经典美味也能有奢华享受。这道料理以现的鸡蓉和鸡汤摇身一变，成了「赏味」菜单中的川菜创新的例子之一。两位主厨让四川小吃中常出材入菜，为川菜注入新的灵魂。」多元了，也就是我们以过去不会出现在川菜中的食流传下去。有别于以往的是，我们能取得的食材更像是川江月的「黑白松露鸡豆花」，就是传统江振诚主厨说：「我们从不因为食材高贵或美 Executive Chef Wilson Fam 行政总厨范健华 TASTING NEWS ① Truffle with Traditional Chicken Mousse and Consommé 黑白松露鸡豆花 ② Ma La Lobster Zhong Dumpling 麻辣龙虾钟水饺 ③ 88 Fortune Treasures 88富贵凉菜 ④ Reinvented Classic Dessert 温古知新 (5)MOONSICHUANOFCOURTESYTANG,ANTHONY 42 TK for the earth

on fifty years from now. What has changed is that we have access to a larger number of ingredients – things we may not have been able to use before.”

① ② ③ ④

素肉麻婆豆腐（夜上海） Ma Po Tofu with “Minced Pork” (yè shanghai) 44 TK FOR THE EARTH

PRESENTED BY ELITE CONCEPTS BY JOYCE KWOK • PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN At Hong Kong’s yè shanghai and Deng G Sichuan, sustainability-minded chefs are featuring plant-based alternatives in creative takes on some of their most popular dishes. vegetarianvariations 如「素」家珍 FOR THE EARTH TK | 45

配松子素肉末配叉子烧饼选 2021 的长相思白酒（夜上海）年新西兰伊兰酒庄 Sauteed “Minced Pork” with Pine Nuts, served with Sesame Pockets, paired with 2021 Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand (yè shanghai)

“In this case,” he smiles delightedly, “the imitation is better than the real stuff.” Chef Sze has been busy adding plant-based pork options to his menu as part of a new initiative by Hong Kong F&B group Elite Concepts, of which yè shanghai is a part.

Chef of yè shanghai

Plant Sifu offers an entire range of pork alter native options that come minced, in strips, and as fillings. The company’s lineup has inspired several new interpretations of yè shanghai classics, includ ing Ma Po Tofu with “Minced Pork” and Dan Dan Noodles with “Minced Pork” in Peanut Sauce. Sze has also revealed that he is currently experimenting with vegetarian versions of xiaolongbao, pot stick ers, and a satisfying soup.

“TRY IT AND SEE,” says Chef Sze Man Sui of yè shanghai, the Michelin-starred restaurant known for its distinctive Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine. He offers two servings of what appear to be minced pork that are virtually indistinguishable to the eye and that taste equally flavorful.

the first time he tried Plant Sifu’s “minced pork,” Sze remarks, “To tell you the truth, I was ‘deceived’ as well,” adding that he found it amazing that such an appealingly rich fragrance could be achieved with plant-based meat.

“Guess which is pork and which is plantbased,” says the chef. Upon closer inspection, the real pork shows an uneven distribution of fat while the plant-based option has more uniform marbling.

Globally, the F&B industry has seen increasing focus on sustainable development issues, ranging from CO2 reduction, energy savings, and food waste recycling to using local rather than imported ingre dients. Elite Concepts has set its sights squarely on working toward sustainability, and its first step is to release a line of plant-based meat alternative dishes at its yè shanghai and Deng G Sichuan restaurants in collaboration with the Hong Kong vegetarian brand Plant RecallingSifu.

夜上海主厨施万岁 for the earth | TK | 47

Sze Man Sui

Zhong Sheng, celebrity chef of Deng G Sichuan, also has developed an avid interest in plant-based meat alternatives. Although traditional Sichuan cuisine often relies on lard to enhance the flavor

PRESENTED BY ELITE CONCEPTS

and aroma of dishes, over the past several years, people of all ages, both in China and abroad, have been turning to healthier eating. “The mission of a chef is to make sure that customers leave full and happy,” says Zhong. “So I do my best to come up with exciting vegetarian options that meet my personal stan dards for Amongflavor.”the growing number of contemporary chefs who are proactively meeting the trend toward sustainable cook ing, Chef Zhong has developed several vegetarian versions of his popular appetizers and noodle dishes. Among them are Yi Bin Ya Cai Dan Dan Noodles with “Minced Pork” and Pickled Mustard Greens, “Pork” Wontons with Red Chili Oil, Pan-Fried Pipa Tofus with “Minced Pork” and Pumpkin Purée, and StirFried “Minced Pork” Lettuce Wraps. Zhong has discovered that as a seasoned chef, creat ing vegetarian options is not especially difficult: “It’s mostly about changing the main ingredient, while the accompanying

「先吃吃看。」米其林一星上海菜餐厅夜上海主厨施万岁，亲自递上两份松子肉末叉子烧饼，两份菜看起来太相似，肉眼几乎很难区辨。「猜猜哪一道用猪绞肉？哪一道用植物肉？」经仔细观察，猪绞肉时有参差、肥瘦皆有，素肉碎的肉感则均匀得多。「『假』的比『真』还好呢！」施师傅幽默地说。他最近忙于为夜上海创作植物肉菜式，以响应餐厅所属的香港餐饮集团「优意集团」的新举措。观望全球餐饮界，永续发展无疑是大趋势，例如减碳节能、厨余回收、起用本地食材等。优意集团亦早已决定朝永续的方向发展，并以确切行动支持，就像近日与香港生产素肉品牌「植厨」合作，推出一系列素肉菜式推广。率先推行的，便是施师傅主理的夜上海，以及由年轻成都主厨钟声师傅掌厨的邓记川菜。「不瞒你说：第一次我也被『骗』过了！」施师傅回忆初次试吃「瘦肉碎」时的趣事，并对素肉带有一点「肥肉油香」、仿真度十足而感到惊讶。植厨供应的素肉形态颇多 –法做出鲜美的素汤汁。」现时他在研究做素小笼包、素锅贴，「我正在想办就像素肉麻婆豆腐、麻酱素肉担担面等。他还透露，有「肉片」和「肉馅」，正好让他灵活演绎不同经典菜，除了「肉碎」，也素肉末爆米花配生菜（邓记川菜） Stir-Fried “Minced Pork” Lettuce Wrap (Deng G Sichuan) PRESENTED BY ELITE CONCEPTS Chef Zhong Sheng of Deng G Sichuan 邓记川菜主厨钟声 48 TK for the earth

素肉红油炒手（邓记川菜） “Pork” Wontons with Red Chili Oil (Deng G Sichuan)

琵琶素肉豆腐选配2018 年新西兰伊兰酒庄的黑皮诺红酒（邓记川菜） Pan-Fried Pipa Tofus with “Minced Pork” and Pumpkin Purée, paired with 2018 Yealands Pinot Noir Marlborough New Zealand (Deng G Sichuan)

叉子烧饼及钟师傅的琵琶素肉豆腐挑选配酒。持主厨们推动永续发展的决心，他决心为施师傅的松子素肉末配厨发挥，并建立长远的互利关系。也愿意了解不同主厨的背景、风格、惯用的食材，提供食材供主源不稳定；但他们抱持乐观展望，认为有越来越多人投入产业，料多不变」。他与施师傅不约而同指出，现时挑战在于香港时蔬货爆米花。如宜宾芽菜素肉担担面、素肉红油抄手、琵琶素肉豆腐及素肉末任。最近，他便为受客人欢迎的前菜、面食等，想出了素肉版本，极想不同办法，把素菜做出水准而不呆板。」口味倾向挂在嘴边。「厨师的使命就是让客人吃得满意，我也会积不论国内国外，抑或年长年轻，都把「吃得清淡，活得高雅」的传统川菜多依赖猪油提升菜式香气与油润感；但在过去几年间，对素肉感到兴趣的，还有主理邓记川菜的钟声师傅。可知道钟师傅说来坚定，也乐于把永续发展肩负为现代主厨的新责钟师傅认为，把荤菜做成素菜不算难，「只需略动主料，副勿以事小而不为，也是集团侍酒师陈耀基的人生格言。为支他千挑万选，最后敲定 2021 美味，绝对可以并行而不相违。」霸道，一如那鸟语花香的酒庄风景。如此再次证明：绿色理念与碳认证的酒庄。这支白酒入口清爽，鹅莓、青柠等果酸明显而不他介绍说：「我很欣赏酒庄的创立理念，矢志成为世界上第一间零年新西兰伊兰酒庄的长相思白酒。 PRESENTED BY ELITE CONCEPTS Sommelier William Chan 侍酒师陈耀基 for the earth TK | 51

麻酱素肉担担面（夜上海）

Dan Dan Noodles with “Minced Pork” in Peanut Sauce (yè shanghai) ingredients and the spices remain the same.” The big gest challenge to providing sustainable cuisine in Hong Kong, both chefs have found, is the city’s unstable supply of seasonal vegetables. They remain optimistic as they see more people joining the industry who are able to provide chefs who have a variety of styles and preferences with fresh produce on a regular basis.

Elite Concepts sommelier William Chan is also doing his part in the drive toward sustainability by find ing the perfect wine to pair with Chef Sze’s Sautéed “Minced Pork” with Pine Nuts, served with Sesame Pockets, and Chef Zhong’s Pan-Fried Pipa Tofus with “Minced Pork” and Pumpkin Purée. After a meticulous search, he selected 2021 Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand. “I admire the concept that Yealands Estate was founded on – becoming the first zero-carbon winery in the world. And this wine’s refreshing flavors with subtle notes of gooseberry and lime and its fragrance reminiscent of the natural beauty of the estate prove that sustainability and great taste can easily go hand in hand.”

Making sustainable choices comes naturally to Chef Richard Ekkebus, with his lifelong environmental consciousness. Culinary director of two-Michelin-star Amber, he also serves as director of culinary operations and food and beverage at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. second nature 永续为常

52 TK FOR THE EARTH

COVER STORY FOR THE EARTH TK | 53

供应蓝鳍吞拿鱼，我认为这必须得到关注。功的一大要素。不过同时我注意到香港四处都在区域性和季节性来采购食物，虽然不是刻意为之，附近农场买黄瓜、马铃薯和草莓。我们总是按照所以我们后来都成为了绿色和平组织的成员。题，让我们从小就意识到保护自然环境的重要性，术家。我妈是真正的嬉皮士，她经常谈论环境议我在荷兰的乡郊长大，父亲是工程师，母亲是艺孩提时代，为了支持当地农民，我们会去但很多时候都以蔬食为主。我们并非吃素，只是比较少吃肉，并以豆类和豆制品作为替代。正因如此，我本来就不觉得人每天都要吃肉。所以刚搬来香港的时候，我受到很大冲击。这里奢侈豪华、取用无度的社会风气，与我先前的生活方式截然不同。大家穿着最时髦的流行服饰，使用着最新的科技产品，开着最新款的超级跑车。我发现这种真真正正的消费饥渴，是香港成 2008 增进生态多样性。我们也会选用少为人知的海鲜来入菜，这样就能单。重要的是，我们不能助长过度捕捞的行径。在晚年才会繁殖，我们也不会把这种鱼类放进菜也即是线钓或是徒手潜水猎捕。此外，某些鱼类们使用的所有鱼都必须是以永续手法打捞上岸，捞时机，绝对不会在鱼体内还有鱼卵时购买。我工作，我们一直在调整革新。我们尊重渔获的打定永续海鲜产品政策。这是一项永远没有终点的酒店集团停止供应鱼翅料理，其后我们致力于制会在餐厅中使用蓝鳍呑拿鱼。不久后，文华东方年，我响应世界自然基金会，承诺不十七年前，我初到 Amber 使用本地、永续的海鲜来烹制料理。酱。这种心态现在已出现变化，我可以开始尝试想要顶级的国际食材，像是蓝龙虾、和牛、鱼子告诉我，香港人不会去法国餐厅吃本地鱼，他们菜单上加入各种本地海鲜，例如石斑鱼。但有人的时候，希望在 COVER STORY BY RICHARD EKKEBUS AS TOLD TO MARK HAMMONS WITH LUCY MORGAN• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN 54 TK for the earth

I GREW UP IN RURAL HOLLAND with an engineer father and an artist mother. My mother was a real hippie and always talked about the environment. She made us aware from a very young age that we needed to protect the environment, so we became members of Greenpeace.Asachild,

In 2008, we supported WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) and pledged not to use bluefin tuna in the restaurant. Not long after that, Mandarin Oriental Group stopped putting shark fin on the menu, and then we worked on our sustainable seafood policy, which is a perma nent work in progress and is always being updated. We respect the fishing calendar and never buy fish when they are carrying eggs. All the fish we use must be caught using sustainable techniques – which means line fishing or hand diving. And some fish that reproduce later in life – we won’t put them on the menu at all. It’s important not to contribute to the problem of overfishing. We also feature lesser-known species of seafood, because it helps support biodiversity.

When I first started at Amber 17 years ago, I wanted to feature local seafood like grouper on the menu, but I was told that Hong Kongers don’t go to a French restaurant to eat local fish, that they wanted top, international ingredients: blue lobster, wagyu, caviar. This mindset is beginning to change now, and I can start experimenting with local, sustainable seafood. During the pandemic, it became difficult to bring produce in from abroad, because flights kept being canceled, so I found some locally

I remember going to buy cucumbers, potatoes, and strawberries from farms near our home to support local producers. We always ate regionally and seasonally, and we were often accidentally plant-based. We weren’t consciously vegetar ian, but we would regularly eat legumes and pulses instead of meat. Because of this, it has never been a prerequisite for me to eat meat every day. So it was quite a shock when I first moved to Hong Kong – the opulence, the excess. It was something I wasn’t used to. People wore the latest fashions, used the most upto-date technology, drove the newest models of supercars. I recognized that this real consumer hunger was one of the factors that makes Hong Kong a success. But I also noticed that everywhere was serving bluefin tuna and felt that was a problem.

Richard Ekkebus

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“Foie gras can be a problematic ingredient. It’s not sustainable, because of the way the poultry are raised – they’re force-fed to make their livers fatty. People might say it’s only a bird, it doesn’t matter. But this practice of force-feeding is not animal friendly – in fact, it’s barbaric. / “I managed to find a source of foie gras where the birds are treated humanely and are not force-fed. People still want to enjoy luxurious ingredients, so at Amber we ensure that such products are ethically sourced. There’s not a lot of sustainable foie gras around, but we managed to track some down. / “There are a lot of green elements in this dish, and the foie gras is hidden underneath. Peas are in season now, so we use fresh sugar snap peas and pea shoots as well as pea flowers to celebrate the whole vegetable. Seasonal eating is a particularly important part of our sustainable practices in the restaurant. It’s something I do instinctively, because I was raised in the countryside and learned to respect the seasons and the different produce they bring.”

把容器还给他们再次利用。复使用的容器将农产品包装给我们，我们再会制造很多一次性废物。现在，农民用可重过去，菜叶装在塑胶袋中从澳洲运来，这样需求。就包装而言，我们也有大幅的改善。我们正在支持本地企业，为他们的产品创造在本地种植，食物里程减少了。此举也代表各个层面上都带来巨大改变。由于农产品是地农场购买我们使用的所有沙拉菜叶，这在尽可能不仰赖外国进口的食材。我现在从本香港本地采购到所有需要的食材。但我们也要。我认为，这才是真正的进步。如此优秀，就算不是来自法国的蓝龙虾也不重分之百永续。宾客意识到这些本地食材的品质地养殖的龙虾。这些龙虾质量很好，而且也百国外食材变得越来越困难。所以我找到一些本疫情期间，因为航班不断被取消，进口当然，我们也十分明白，我们不可能在 sugar snap peas, for the earth | TK | 57

farmed spiny lobster which is really good and totally sustainable. The guests realized that the quality of the product was so excellent that it didn’t matter that it wasn’t a blue lobster from France. I see this as real progress.Ofcourse, this is Hong Kong, so it just isn’t possible to source all the produce we need locally – I realize that. But we’re doing as much as we can. I now buy all our salad leaves from local farms. It has made such a difference on several levels. The number of food miles is lower, since the produce is grown locally. We’re supporting local businesses and creating a demand for their product. As far as packaging is concerned, we’re doing so much better. The leaves used to come in plastic packets from Australia and there would be so much single-use plastic waste. Now the farmers bring their produce to us in reusable containers that we return for them to refill.

「肥肝是一种有道德争议的食材。它之所以不永续，是因为家禽的饲养方式出了问题。为了养出肥美的肝脏，家禽被强制喂食。有些人可能会说那只不过是一只禽鸟，没什么大不了的。但这种强行喂食的方式对动物并不友善，而且相当野蛮。 / 材，所以在家禽受到人道对待，没有被强制喂食。消费者依然希望能享受奢华的食我成功找到一家肥肝供应商，那里的 Amber 没有太多永续的肥肝可以选择，但我们还是顺利找到供应商。，我们确保此类食材的来源符合道德标准。市面上并 / 我在乡郊长大，我学会顺应季节、运用不同时节盛产的食材。」是我们餐厅的重要永续操作之一。这也是我与生俱来的料理方式，由于新鲜的甜豌豆、豌豆苗和豌豆花来带入丰富的蔬菜意象。使用当季食材菜有许多绿色元素，而鸭肝就隐身其下。豌豆是当季食材，所以我们用这道 COVER STORY DUCK FOIE GRAS, PEA SHOOTS, PEA FLOWERS, RIOS BIOXOS WHITE WINE, LEMON VERBENA, WHITE ONION 鸭肝、甜豌豆、豌豆苗、豌豆花、白葡萄酒、柠檬马鞭草、白洋葱

I aim to buy as much locally as possible, or regionally if I cannot source it locally, or finally to bring in organic produce from overseas if it isn’t possible to find it in the region. We have switched beer suppliers to work with a local brewery, which not only helps reduce our carbon

“Artichoke is without a doubt my favorite vegetable, because of both its texture and its flavor. I don’t think it matters whether you have globe artichokes or purple artichokes – they are simply the most beautiful vegetables. So, we always work with artichokes on our menu when they’re in season. / “We cook them barigoule style with white wine, tomato, onion, and basil, and we cook them to perfection. Then we put them on the plancha for a little caramelization. We add some spring onions and some morels from Yunnan, which is a regional product and not from too far away. We sauté the morels with some shallots and deglaze them with a little bit of sherry and some morel juice and make a dashilike juice. / “We use some vegan butter to emulsify and add a little chopped truffle and some olive oil to give it richness. We top with raw artichokes – some chips of artichokes. It’s really a celebration of the different textures and the versatility of the artichoke. / “It’s important to us to serve a range of interesting and delicious vegetarian dishes at Amber to show that vegetables are not boring, that they can make exceptional dishes.”

「洋蓟是我最爱的蔬菜，口感跟风味都非常好。不管是球形洋蓟还是紫洋蓟，它们都是最美丽的蔬菜。在洋蓟盛产的时节，我们菜单上总是能见到以它做成的料理。 / 做出一种类似昆布鲣鱼高汤的酱汁。快炒，然后用一点雪利酒和羊肚菌汁来收汁，来自遥远的国度。我们将羊肚菌跟大葱一起南的羊肚菌，这是一种区域性食材，并不是微焦糖化。我们再加入一些青葱以及来自云最完美的熟度，然后将它放在煎锅上煎到略萄酒、番茄、洋葱与罗勒来炖煮洋蓟，煮到我们以白葡 / 与风味发挥到淋漓尽致。头摆放生的、切碎的洋蓟，将它的各种质感松露和橄榄油让风味更浓郁丰富。我们在上用少许纯素黄油来进行乳化，并加入切碎的我们 / Amber 异彩。」才能证明蔬菜并不平平无奇，素食也能大放命是提供各种有趣、美味的素食菜肴，这样的一大使 purple artichoke, SPRING ONION, MOREL, MANNI “PER ME” EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL WITH PRESERVED BLACK TRUFFLE AND MORELS / 紫洋蓟、黑松露、羊肚菌、洋葱、特级初榨橄榄油 COVER STORY 58 TK for the earth

FOR THE EARTH TK | 59

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/ 则能清洗味蕾。」让这道料理达成完美平衡。四川花椒超级辛辣，西瓜与姜为了让风味更清新、增添辛辣感，我们用姜汁来搭配西瓜， FERMENTED BELL PEPPER, FRUIT TOMATO, CULTURED CASHEW NUT BUTTER, SICHUAN PEPPERCORN, EXTRA VIRGIN GRAPESEED OIL, GINGER, WATERMELON 发酵甜椒、水果番茄、红洋葱、腰果黄油、四川花椒、特级初榨葡萄籽油、姜、西瓜 red onion, COVER STORY

「这道菜探索了口感与风味的各种可能性，又是一道令人跃跃欲试的素食料理。这道菜的特殊风味跟层次多元的口感，绝对能让宾客惊艳。

footprint, but dramatically cuts down on packaging. Instead of import ing glass bottles from overseas, we can order large kegs, and there’s an opportunity for us to create bespoke brews for our guests. We have even managed to create something to help us with reducing kitchen waste – we’re currently working on a wild ale, which is made from our leftover sourdough bread that’s toasted and then fermented. We always strive to do better with our waste management. Using local farmers has helped us to cut down on single-use plastic waste, but I felt there was still more we could do. Now we operate a circular system – we save our eggshells, peelings, and coffee grounds and the farmers take them away to use as fertilizer. Even in a city like Hong Kong, our trash can be someone else’s treasure.

“This is a play on both texture and flavor, another exciting vegetarian dish that will surprise diners with its interesting flavor profile and range of textures. / “We ferment bell peppers and tomatoes in a vacuum pack. It’s a lactic fermentation, so it creates a broad range of flavors during the process. We emulsify it with a cashew butter that we make and add some extraordinarily strong Sichuan peppercorn oil that we make. It’s very spicy, and we put that on top. / “The onion is cooked in sea salt in a sort of baking clay which you cut away to reveal the juicy cooked onion. We then give the onion a little caramelization to add some slightly roasted aromas. / “For freshness and spice, we compress watermelon with ginger. It adds an important balance to the dish. The Sichuan peppercorn is so spicy, and the watermelon and ginger help to refresh the palate.” / 油相当呛辣，我们只点缀在料理顶部。并加入我们调制而成、香气特别强烈的四川花椒油。花椒我们用自己制作的腰果黄油来乳化发酵后的甜椒与番茄，酵。这属于乳酸发酵，所以过程中会产生各式各样的风味。我们将甜椒跟番茄装在真空包装中发 / 的熟洋葱。我们让洋葱略微焦糖化，一种烘焙土中用海盐煮熟，将烘焙土切开后就能看到多汁我们将洋葱包在增加一点炙烧的香气。

I’m constantly trying to find ways to manage our waste – we’re

性塑胶废物，但我觉得我们还能做得更多。我们正是其中一项。跟本地农民合作有助于减少一次包经烘烤后再进行发酵，制成一种野生麦酒。少厨余的办法：我们正在研究将餐厅剩下的酸面宾客量身打造的啤酒。我们甚至想出了一个能减我们可以在本地订购大桶啤酒，也有机会提供为减少包装的使用。与其从海外进口玻璃瓶装啤酒，作，这不仅有助于降低我们的碳足迹，更能大幅们更换了啤酒供应商，现在与一家本地啤酒厂合找不到想要的食材，就从海外进口有机产品。我地买不到就在区域内购买。最后，如果区域内也我的目标是尽可能在本地购买食材，如果本我们正在努力改变旧有操作，而废弃物管理 for the earth TK | 61

COVER STORY ruthlessly strict. Every week we weigh it and analyze what is being thrown out. Then we can make positive changes – buy things in larger bottles or packets, find new ways to recycle. We have now eradicated single-use plastics – we use a biofilm, which is far more expensive than plastic cling film and a little milky in color, and bioplastic vacuum bags for sous vide cooking. We also filter water in-house for colleagues and guests, which cuts down on the need for imported bottled water. Our cooking oil is recycled and turned into biofuel. All our cardboard packag ing is recyclable. Even my work shoes are made from recycled oceanNothingplastic. is simple with sustainability. Everything we do can have another layer. You have to keep monitoring and improving. If I want to source a new product, it must be organic and fairtrade and have a sustainability certificate – otherwise forget it. So, I decided that Amber needed to change direction, that we needed to prioritize sustainability and make some big changes. I went to management to present my case, and they were looking at me like, this guy is nuts. From a business perspec tive and a PR perspective, Amber was one of the most successful restaurants in the group, with two Michelin stars, and had been named number twenty on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It wasn’t easy. It took me a lot of time – convincing and arm twist ing, a lot of meetings, lots of papers that I wrote – to justify why we needed to do this. But the fact is that I’m an eternally curious person. I’m always looking for something new or different. I never settle for one way that something can be done. 合公平贸易程序，而且通过永续认证，否则免谈。如果我想采购一种新的产品或食材，它必须是有机、符一切都能体现出另一层涵义。你必须不断观察、改进。的，甚至连我的工作鞋也是由回收海洋塑料制成的。油经回收后也成为生物燃料。所有纸板包装都是可回收宾客过滤饮用水，降低进口瓶装水的需求；餐厅的烹饪煮烹调的生物塑胶真空袋。我们如今在餐厅中替同事与塑料保鲜膜高昂的乳白色生物膜，以及用来进行低温慢收方法。我们目前已废除一次性塑胶垃圾，改用价格比例如购买大瓶或大包的原物料或食材，并且寻找新的回重，分析哪些东西被扔掉了，然后据此推动正向变革，是以极为严格的态度来看待这件事。垃圾也能成为别人的财富。来，给农民作为肥料。即使在香港这样的城市，我们的现正使用一套循环系统，将蛋壳、果皮和咖啡渣保存起我一直在努力寻找管理垃圾废弃物的方式，而且每周我们都会秤永续这条路上没有什么事是简单的。我们所做的因此，我决定要让 Amber 「这家伙疯了。」从商业和公关角度来看，阶层开会讨论我的想法，他们盯着我的眼神仿佛在说：要优先考虑永续发展，并做出一些重大改变。我跟管理改变营运方向。我们需 Amber 拥有米其林二星，在「世界 50 直用同一种方式做事。好奇心的人，我总是在寻找新的或不同的东西，不会一只为了证明为什么我们必须这样做。我是一个永远充满改变他们的观念，也开了很多场会议、写了很多报告，集团其中一间最成功的餐厅。我花了很长时间来说服和最佳餐厅」中排名二十，是 62 TK for the earth

「在 Amber 蜊和生蚝，鲜。反之，我们使用大量的滤食性动物，例如贻贝、蛤，我们不会使用被列为濒危或即将濒危的海这些都是非常永续，而且不那么热门的海鲜。 / 养殖场，所以对他们的永续操作很有信心。我从塔斯马尼亚的一座养殖场进货，也亲自拜访过这座大家都吃鲑鱼，而樱樽鱼则是永续版本的鲑鱼。 / 式高汤来提出整道菜的鲜甜味。根进行乳化，创造出浓郁的奶油口感。最后，我们用日萝卜中提取胡萝卜素，用一点点特级初榨葡萄籽油与辣过轻度腌渍后，切成薄片。我们不用乳制品，所以从胡樱樽鱼经 / 来比选用面包作为伴餐还要清爽。」在另一个盘子中。我认为豌豆跟洋葱真的是绝配，吃起场。我们将切好的洋葱拿去烘烤，做成美味的脆片，装及豆苗。这道菜中的万寿菊以及豌豆花也是来自这座农也减少食物运输的里程。我们选用小酸模、沙拉水芹以市农民采购摆盘的叶子，一方面支持他们的业务，同时我们从香港当地的都 for the earth | TK | 63

ocean trout, “At Amber, we stay away from seafood that is listed as endangered or on the verge of being endangered. Instead, we use a lot of filter feeders – mussels, clams, and oysters that are very sustainable and seafood that is not so popular. / “Everybody eats salmon, but ocean trout is sort of like the sustainable stepdaughter of salmon. I source it from a farm in Tasmania, which I visited personally, so I’m sure of their sustainable practices. / “We do a light cure on the trout and cut it thinly. Then we have a carotene extraction from carrots that we emulsify with only a little bit of extra virgin grapeseed oil and horseradish. We use that to create creamy elements in the dish, since we don’t use dairy products in the restaurant. We finish it with some dashi that provides a burst of sweetness. / “We source the leaves for the garnish from local, urban farmers here in Hong Kong to support their businesses and cut down on food miles. We choose baby sorrel, cress, and pea shoots. This farm also provides us with the blooms used in the dish – marigolds and pea flowers. We bake some shaved onion to make a delicious crisp that we serve on the side. I think peas and onions go really well together, and this is lighter than eating the dish with bread.”

ROE, CAROTENE, SHIRO SOY, SUDOCHI, AKA UNI, HORSERADISH, SORREL, MARIGOLD / 樱鳟鱼、鱼子、胡萝卜、白酱油、酢橘、赤海胆、辣根、酸模叶、万寿菊

64 TK FOR THE EARTH

比牛肉更可口。甜感。乳鸽对我来说是肉中之王，味非常强烈，带有一点野味以及清天然产品的一大特色。乳鸽肉的风不一。乳鸽没有被标准化，这就是约化养殖场，所以提供的乳鸽大小有机认证的家庭农场。他们不是集一。我们的乳鸽来自法国一个经过多。乳鸽的碳足迹是牛肉的十分之型动物的碳足迹比家禽或野味还要要尽可能降低碳足迹。事实上，大道德标准来源的肉品，因为我们想，我们坚持只使用合乎

“Ethical meat sourcing is important to us at Amber, as is keeping our carbon footprint as low as possible. The reality is that larger animals have a larger carbon footprint than poultry or game. Pigeon has one-tenth the carbon footprint of beef. We source our pigeons from a family farm in France that is certified organic. They come in varying sizes, because they’re not intensively farmed. This is one of the idiosyncrasies of a natural product – the pigeons are not standardized. Their flavor is intense – gamy and a bit sweet. Pigeon for me is the king of meats and I’d rather eat it than beef. / “We use Turkish bulgur wheat, make a sort of risotto, and add cashew butter and a purée made from local watercress. Watercress is something that grows well in Hong Kong, and it’s in season at the moment. I love how summery it tastes, and it adds some pepperiness. We also throw a little watercress leaf on at the end, just to preserve the leaf texture. / “It’s onion season at the moment, so instead of using dried garlic, we use ‘wet garlic,’ which is just young, green garlic at the start of the season. The flavor is significantly different from that of dried garlic – less spicy and sweeter somehow, and it really goes well with the pigeon. This dish is a symphony of seasonality – the bulgur gives it an interesting play on texture, but I love the way the flavors interact.” 「在 Amber / 留叶子的质感。撒上一些豆瓣菜的叶子，目的是保料理增添一点胡椒香气。最后我们我喜欢豆瓣菜的夏日风味，还能替在香港长得非常好，而且也正当季。及用本地豆瓣菜做的菜泥。豆瓣菜黑麦来做炖饭，并加入腰果黄油以我们使用土耳其 / 爱各种风味交互融合的整体效果。」带来独一无二的口感层次，但我更交织而成的交响乐，黑麦替整道菜乳鸽非常配。这道菜如同当季食材那么辣，而且还带有一种甜味，跟与干大蒜的味道明显不同，比较没刚开始才有的嫩绿大蒜。这种大蒜使用湿大蒜，这是一种在这个季节季，所以我们不使用干大蒜，我们现在是洋葱的产

I see sustainability as a glass half empty, not a glass half full – I’m always looking for ways to do better and I’m never compla cent about what we are doing. It will never be perfect, since we have three hundred to four hundred people in this building, but it’s better to drive a large, imperfect system consistently than a per fect one with just a few people. We now have everybody behind it, we have a manifesto and a sustainability group that meets every month. But I also need to keep these people employed, to pay my suppliers, and that means that I need the restaurant to be full, I need to keep my guests happy. So it’s a balance. 客满意。这是一种平衡。供应商付费，这代表我需要替餐厅招揽生意、要让宾月都召开会议。不过，我也需要保住员工的工作、给动，我们有一份永续宣言跟一个永续发展小组，每个数人的完美系统还要好。现在每位员工都支持这项行持续推动一个不够完美的庞大系统，绝对比只有寥寥三百到四百位员工，所以永远不可能达到完美。但是从来不对自己的所得所为感到自满。这栋大楼里有一个半满的杯子：我一直在寻找能做得更好的方法，我将永续发展视为一个半空的玻璃杯，而不是

pigeon, SANSHO, WATERCRESS, BULGUR WHEAT, WET GARLIC, SPRING GREENS, GRILLED RAPESEED OIL 乳鸽、桑乔、豆瓣菜、黑麦、湿大蒜、春菜、烤菜籽油

COVER STORY

for the earth | TK | 65

AMBER CLOSED IN 2018 FOR REFURBISHMENT. All of the furni ture, crockery, cutlery, and kitchen equipment was either sold or given away to NGOs. It was important to us that everything from the old restaurant was repurposed and did not go to landfill. When the restaurant was relaunched, all the materials that we used in the rebuild had to be natural, biodegradable, or recyclable. We got rid of the table linen to cut down on our water use and chose natural-colored napkins so we no longer need to use bleach when washing them – it’s a terrible pollutant. We don’t burn candles in the restaurant but instead use reusable lights, and our lighting is LEDs to save on energy. We stopped using gas in the kitchen and changed to 100 percent induction. Every sustainable change you make also needs to be one that guests will appreciate. Our aim with the refit was to make the interior of the restaurant feel like an urban cocoon, with softer, natural colors. I was also very keen to attract a younger crowd – we had been open for seventeen years and our customers had grown up with us. The aver age age of our guests before we closed was fifty-five. Since we’ve reopened, the average age has dropped to thirty-five. It’s important for a restaurant to appeal to younger as well as older clientele to stay relevant. It’s no secret that younger generations are interested in transparency about sustainable practices. They also seem to appreci ate the slightly less formal décor, now that we’ve moved away from traditional starched table linen. We made a huge change to the menu when we reopened. It was something I had been thinking about for a long time. I was becom ing uncomfortable about using dairy on the menu, because the dairy industry has a catastrophic effect on the environment. In addition to this, I had trained as a nutritionist when I was at university, so I know what dairy does to the body. I felt that with our long tasting menu, including dairy was making it too heavy. We used to have a cheese trolley at Amber, and after the savory courses, guests would choose a selection of cheeses. I noticed that quite often, diners would then skip dessert. It wasn’t fair to our pastry chef, since he was working hard to make beautiful dishes that people didn’t have room to eat.

2018 复使用的灯。污染物。我们不在餐厅中点蜡烛，而是使用可重这样在清洗时就不必使用漂白剂，毕竟漂白剂是水量，我们不使用桌布，并选择天然染制的餐巾，可降解、天然，或者可回收的。为了降低清洁用有重生的机会，而不是被扔进垃圾堆填区。织。对我们来说，重点在于让餐厅的每件旧物都陶器、餐具和厨房设备都被卖掉或送给非政府组年，餐厅为了整修而暂时歇业。所有家具、我们在重建过程中使用的所有素材都必须是我们的灯是 LED 灯管，能够节省能点负担太重。以前，项丰富的品尝菜单中使用乳制品，对宾客来说有师培训，知道乳制品对身体的影响。我觉得在品的影响相当巨大。此外，我在大学时接受过营养制品，这点我非常介意，因为乳制品产业对环境这是我构思已久的主意。之前的菜单使用大量乳客户似乎也很欣赏这种较轻松随兴的用餐气氛。度。我们不再使用上浆至笔挺的传统桌布，年轻大家都晓得，年轻一代相当重视永续操作的透明顾客是相当重要的，这样才能在餐饮业站稳脚步。岁。对于一家餐厅来说，同时吸引年轻与年长的为五十五岁，重新开业后平均年龄下降至三十五起成长。在我们关闭整修之前，顾客的平均年龄已经开业十七年，有一群忠实的顾客陪伴我们一然色彩。我非常渴望能吸引一些年轻客群：我们内部装潢包装成一颗都会中的茧，散发柔和的自欣赏的改变。重新整修再出发的目标，是将餐厅源。厨房也已不使用煤气，而是使用电磁炉。我们做的每项永续变革，也必须是顾客能够重新开业时，我们也大幅调整菜单的内容。 Amber 们正在研究一款惊人的素食黄油。这些替代物风感。我们甚至将柑橘皮熬成浆用在冰淇淋中。我腐与特级初榨橄榄油，为甜点增添浓郁的滑顺口代食材来维持糕点的风味。我们开始试着使用豆油的使用量，我在休业的前两年学习使用哪些替奶油跟黄油，但南法大多使用橄榄油。制品。甚至在法国也是如此，虽然北法料理很重说意大利南部，当地人根本不会使用这么多的乳我认为黄油根本不是必要食材。去到南欧，比方因为太饱而无法享用。也不公平。甜点师努力制作精美的甜点，宾客却发现宾客通常会因此跳过甜点，这对甜点师来说享用完咸点后，宾客能挑选一些奶酪来品尝。我有一台奶酪推车，在大家都误以为欧洲菜必须使用大量黄油，但实际上，我们也开始减少甜点中的黄油与奶 COVER STORY 66 TK for the earth

There’s this misconception that to cook European food, you need to use lots of butter, but I don’t think it’s a prerequisite at all. If you go to the south of Europe, like southern Italy, there’s not so much dairy being used. And even in France, if you go to the north, the cuisine is heavy on cream and butter, but if you go to the south, more olive oil is used.We actually started cutting down on the amounts of butter and cream in our pastry courses about two years before the closure, learn ing what works and what doesn’t. We began experimenting with tofu and extra virgin olive oil to bring richness and creaminess to recipes.

“I see sustainability as a glass half empty, not a glass half full. I am always looking for ways to do better and I’m never complacent about what we are doing. 我将永续发展视为一个半空的玻璃杯，而不是一个半满的杯子：我一直在寻找能做得更好的方法，从来不对自己的所得所为感到自满。” Richard Ekkebus FOR THE EARTH TK | 67

“I’m an eternally curious person. I’m always looking for something new or different. I never settle for one way that something can be done. 我是一个永远充满好奇心的人，我总是在寻找新的或不同的东西，不会一直用同一种方式做事。” Richard Ekkebus 68 TK FOR THE EARTH

sunflower seeds, 「 Amber 找巧克力供应商，决定与一家名为非常重视食材的采购来源。我们花了一段时间寻 Conspiracy Chocolate 跟我们尽可能在当地采购的理念不谋而合。的小公司合作。他们的所有巧克力都是从越南进货，这 / 要作物，所以我们决定设计一道以向日葵为灵感的料理。人道主义问题。向日葵是和平的象征，也是乌克兰的主这道菜的目的是为了募集资金，来协助俄乌战争产生的我们设计 / 宾客一起扶持其他人。」是一大核心精神。我们要好好发挥自己的影响力，鼓励币。在我们的永续理念中，支持当地以及更广大的社群二十五块港币，我们也成功替慈善机构募集到三万元港活泼俏皮。它非常受欢迎，宾客点这道菜时会额外支付起来，并加入一点白醋来提升酸度。这道菜的摆盘也很比较清爽不油腻。我们在日本蜜柑当季时将其腌渍保存间的成果。这款果仁糖使用种子而非坚果制成，吃起来我们用葵花籽制作果仁糖，这是我们已经研发了一段时

毕，宾客绝对会感到轻盈无负担。味鲜美，而且没有乳制品的脂肪和热量。用餐完 Amber 已不见乳制品的踪影。我不希望再度敞开大门迎接宾客时，菜单上 Amber 跟其他法国餐厅一样，我期盼 Amber 研究生态多样性的非政府组织－绿惜地球（出一份素食料理，我们就会捐款给本地一个专门为我们希望增加更多以蔬食为导向的菜肴。每卖们依然在不断学习。是在逼自己加倍努力、要求自己更有创意，而我这点并不容易。我们每替自己设下一道限制，就能够与众不同。现在，我们的菜单上有很多素食料理，因 The Green Earth 区的贡献。工在带薪工作期间从事义工服务，这是我们对社厅员工去帮忙植树也是我们计划的一部分：让员效应，因为亚洲箭猪已重返本地生态系统。派餐透过种植本地树木来恢复平衡，带来相当正向的木，这也改变了整个生态系统的平衡。绿惜地球多森林被毁，后来在重建时出现许多非本地的树）。在二次世界大战期间，香港有很 for the earth | TK | 69

AMATIKA VEGAN MILK CHOCOLATE, MIKAN, WHITE BALSAMIC VINEGAR, EXTRA VIRGIN SUNFLOWER OIL, OATS, MARIGOLD /「纯素牛奶」巧克力、蜜柑、白醋、特级初榨葵花籽油、葵花籽、燕麦、万寿菊

COVER STORY

We even boiled down citrus rinds to make a pulp that we use in our ice cream and are working on an amazing vegan brown butter. These sub stitutions taste delicious, just without all the fat and calories of dairy. You feel lighter after eating them, not weighed down. When we reopened Amber, there was no longer any dairy on the menu. I don’t want Amber to be like all other French restaurants – we like to be a bit different. It’s not easy, because with every limitation you give yourself, you need to push twice as hard to be more creative. And we’re still learning. We offer a lot of vegetarian dishes on the menu now too, because we hope to shift the balance further toward plant-based options. Each time we sell a vegetarian dish, we donate money to a local NGO called The Green Earth that specializes in biodiversity. During the Second World War, a lot of forests were destroyed in Hong Kong and were then replanted with nonindigenous trees. This changed the whole balance of the ecosystem. This NGO now plants indigenous trees to restore the balance. It’s having a positive effect – we’ve seen the Asian porcupine returning in these areas. I send my staff to help plant the trees too – it’s part of our program for staff members to volunteer during their paid working hours, and it’s a contribution from us to the community.

“We take sourcing very seriously at Amber, and it took us a while to find our chocolate suppliers. We use a small company called Conspiracy Chocolate, and all their chocolate is sourced in Vietnam, which aligns with our desire to source things locally and regionally wherever possible. / “We created this dish to raise money to support the humanitarian problems arising from the war between Russia and Ukraine. The sunflower is a symbol of peace but is also a main crop in Ukraine, so we decided to create a dish inspired by the sunflower. “We made a praline using sunflower seeds, which is something we have been exploring for a while. Using seeds rather than nuts gives a less oily effect. We added some Japanese mandarins that we had preserved while they were in season and a little white balsamic for some more acidity. We made the plating playful and fun. It was an extremely popular dish – guests paid an extra HKD25 to order it and we raised HKD30,000 for the charity. Supporting the local and wider communities is an important part of our sustainability manifesto, and we’re in an advantageous position to be able to encourage diners to participate in supporting others.”

Our efforts to make the restaurant sustainable have been recog nized. We have a Michelin Green Star, but that’s not the only recognition we’ve received – we were recognized as Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Most Sustainable Restaurant in 2020. When we received the Michelin Green Star in 2022 it was as exciting for me as when Amber was first awarded two Michelin stars. We now have a QR code on our menu to help us share our sustainability message with guests.Atlast, the journey that we’ve been on for so long, as well as the emphasis that we’ve put on sustainability as part of our DNA – all this has now been recognized.

“This dish celebrates all the different elements of the cocoa bean – it’s a proper chocolate dessert. We ferment the membrane, we toast the seeds, and I use a bitter chocolate, fully vegan and sourced regionally from Vietnam and handcrafted by Conspiracy Chocolate in Hong Kong. / “We make a praline from almonds and cocoa nibs, tuiles of cocoa, and a chocolate sorbet, and then we finish the dessert with some fermented cacao mucilage, which is quite sour and brings pleasing acidity for balance in the dish. / “Since we don’t use milk products at Amber, we need to be imaginative when creating a chocolate ganache without using cream or butter. The secret ingredient is silken tofu. It’s great, because it maintains the integrity of the dark chocolate flavor. When you add butter or cream to dark chocolate, you get a sort of diluted milk chocolate, but when you add tofu, you preserve a lot of the qualities and the flavor profile of the chocolate, which is much better. To match the silken tofu, we also include some yuba – fresh tofu sheets sourced regionally from Japan – which we crystallize, and this adds crispiness. There are about seven different textures in this dessert.”

获得的唯一认可：我们在定。我们有一颗米其林绿星，但这并不是我们我们在永续发展方面投注的努力已得到肯 2020 年获得「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」的可持续性大奖。成功在 2022 年获得米其林绿星时，我就像 Amber 续发展的介绍，来向宾客传递这项讯息。我们在菜单上设置一个二维码，上面有针对永第一次获得米其林二星时一样激动。终于，这段漫长的路程以及我们在永续发展上投入的心思，这些代表餐厅核心精神的行动终于受到肯定。 70 TK for the earth

「这道菜运用可可的各种元素，是一道非常正规的巧克力甜点。我们将黏膜发酵，并将种子拿去烘烤，而且使用从越南地区采购进货，并由香港 Conspiracy Chocolate 公司手工制作的纯素巧克力。 / 能完美平衡这道料理的风味。巧克力雪葩，然后用发酵的可可豆提味。它有着恰到好处的酸度，我们用杏仁与可可粒制成果仁糖和可可杏仁脆片，还有 / 由于 Amber 吃起来有更明显的爽脆口感。这道甜点的口感大概有七道层次。」腐，我们还运用一些从日本采购的新鲜腐皮。将腐皮结晶化后，克力的质地与风味就能完美保存，这种方式更好。为了搭配丝豆奶油，会得到稀释的牛奶巧克力；但是在巧克力中加入豆腐，巧为它能保有黑巧克力的完整风味。要是在黑巧克力中加入黄油或黄油。丝豆腐就是我们的秘密武器。丝豆腐是很理想的食材，因以在制作巧克力甘纳许时，我们需要发挥想像力，不使用奶油或不使用乳制品，所 COVER STORY

cacao, CONSPIRACY DAK LAK 90% BITTER CHOCOLATE, SILKEN TOFU, FERMENTED CACAO MUCILAGE, DAK LAK CACAO NIBS, YUBA 可可、90% 巧克力、丝豆腐、发酵可可、可可粒、腐皮 FOR THE EARTH | TK | 71

72 TK FOR THE EARTH

Time-honored sustainability is on the menu at The Manor. way of life 可持续生活形态 PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO FOR THE EARTH TK | 73

Michele 表示：「生产 BY INARA SIM • PHOTOGRAPHYBY DADO KIT PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

For something extra special, guests are treated to Wagyu that has been snow-aged by an ancient Japanese process called yukimuro, in which this top-grade Japanese beef is kept for thirty days in a storehouse covered with snow and insulated with rice bran. Undergoing an astonishing taste transformation, the Wagyu comes out meltingly tender, moist, and full of flavor.

哪些途径才抵达餐桌等议题，对主厨与食客来设计以蔬食为主的菜单。食物从何而来、经过理中使用当季以及可持续生产的食材，并倾向当今的主厨更积极与当地农民合作、致力于料获食材的追求，似乎仍在不断成长。比起从前，饮食趋势往而复来，但主厨们对使用可持续捕说都愈发重要。对澳门瑞吉酒店雅舍的行政助理总厨 Michele Dell’Aquila 种终于被大家意识到的生活形态。言，这不算是新兴趋势，而是一而 Michele 造过程充满道德争议的美食划上等号，但活的。」潮，但数千年来，意大利农村居民都是这样生活。他说：「现在这是一种饮食风尚，一种热使用各种季节性产物下厨并仰赖这些作物生的巴里长大，看着祖父母种植作物，在意大利亚得里亚海沿岸高级餐饮通常都与鹅肝和鱼子酱等制

FOOD TRENDS MAY COME AND GO, but if there’s one that seems to be growing exponentially it’s the drive toward sustainability. More than ever, chefs are working with local farmers, focusing on using seasonal and sustainably sourced ingredients, and opting for menus that are increas ingly plant-based. The issues of where food comes from and how it reaches the table are becoming more important for both chefs and diners. But for Chef Michele Dell’Aquila, all of this, far from being a new trend, is simply a way of life that the rest of the world is finally catching up with. The executive sous chef at The St. Regis Macao signature restaurant The Manor was born and raised in Bari on Italy’s southern Adriatic Coast, where he grew up watching his grandparents grow their crops and live off seasonal products from the land. “Now it’s a fashion,” he says, “a fad. But this is how people have been living for thousands of years in the ItalianWhilecountryside.”finedininghas often been synonymous with not-so-ethicallyproduced delicacies like foie gras and caviar, Dell’Aquila is happy that the tide is turning on an era of irresponsible indulgence. His newly launched Celebrate Sustainability menu, the first of its kind in Macau, combines impeccable culinary craft and commitment to sustainability without compromise on epicurean finesse. “Producing sustainable and organic products involves a lot of effort and a lot of money,” he says. “The price is higher, but people will spend more because they know what they’re eating. There are no question marks around the food.” Michele 持续的承诺两相结合。的菜单，同时将他无可挑剔的烹饪技艺与对可之味」菜单，是澳门第一份向可持续精神致敬离这种享乐型态。他近期推出的「臻享可持续很高兴看到目前的饮食趋势正逐渐脱

若是希望尝新，可以试试日本雪室熟成 A4 和牛。作为一种古老的日本工艺，雪室熟成就是用白雪覆盖顶级肉品，再放入以米糠隔绝的传统雪屋中保存三十天。熟成过程使和牛的肉质变得柔软细嫩、肉汁充盈且充满风味。

The Tategamori Ark Farm’s egg ravioli is paired with a pinot noir from Oregon in the USA. “This is the signature grape of Oregon,” says Duan. “The cool climate makes it soft and delicate, almost silky. It’s very elegant, very fruity, and the earthiness of it pairs perfectly with the black truffles that accompany the ravioli.” 日本 Tategamori Ark 农场鸡蛋意式云吞，搭配来自美国奥勒冈州的黑皮诺红葡萄酒。David 说：「黑皮诺是奥勒冈州的著名葡萄品种。凉爽的气候让这支酒喝起来柔和细致，几乎可以用丝滑来形容。这支酒非常优雅、果香浓郁，入口时的泥土风味跟搭配意式云吞的黑松露是绝配。」 FOR THE EARTH TK | 75

Celebrate Sustainability starts with a dish centered on a classic Italian springtime ingredient, artichokes. An organic baby vari ety from Padua is paired with sustainable Hokkaido langoustine

更高昂。需要专业知识以及更高度的劳动力，产品的价格也多样性，而不使用化学肥料和农药。由于这些操作去脉都一清二楚。」为他们知道自己到底在吃什么，对眼前食材的来龙格虽然比较高，但大家愿意为可持续产品花费，因可持续、有机的产品需要耗费大量心神与资金。价种植可持续作物时，重点在于土壤健康与生物 Michele 的供应商取得食材，并向食客公开食材的来历。」成本，但这会对环境造成负面影响。我们从可信赖透露：「许多人都想抄近路、节省 Michele 「这是我的第一个灵感。季节性是这份菜单的哲学，在设计菜单时，参考了儿时回忆。他说：我想起母亲在不同季节做的料理，然后着手采购这些食材，同时要求它们完全符合可持续精神。」「臻享可持续之味」的开胃菜以经典意大利春 76 TK for the earth

The growing of sustainable crops focuses on soil health and biodiversity rather than chemical fertilizers and pesticides. And since these practices require specialized expertise and greater labor, the resulting products are often more expensive. “A lot of people want to take shortcuts and save costs,” says Dell’Aquila, “but that has a negative impact on the environment. We select from suppliers we can trust and have full transparency with our guests.” When designing the menu, the chef turned to childhood memo ries. “That was the first thing in my mind,” he says. “The whole philosophy behind this is seasonality, so I thought about things that my mother would cook during different seasons and then set about sourcing 100 percent sustainable versions of those ingredients.”

谈及京都雪蟹配法国芦笋汤和意大利 Calvisius Royal 鲟鱼鱼子酱， Michele 说道：「芦笋的味道浓郁，有时会遮盖其他食材的味道。我们因此将它与非常细致、轻盈的京都雪蟹配搭，而这个组合的确非常完美。」 “Asparagus is usually hard to combine with other ingredients because of its strong flavor,” says Dell’Aquila of his Kyoto Snow Crab with French asparagus soup and Calvisius Royal caviar. “That’s why we paired it with the snow crab. It’s very delicate, very light, and the combination is perfect.” PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO “I thought about things that my mother would cook during different seasons and then set about sourcing 100 percent sustainable versions of those ingredients. 我想起母亲在不同季节做的料理，然后着手采购这些食材，同时要求它们完全符合可持续精神。” Michele Dell’Aquila

“People care more and more about how the things we consume have an effect on the environment. 大家越来越在乎自己的饮食方式会否对环境造成影响。” David Duan Michele 介绍说如果雅枝竹长得太大，口感会变得坚硬，味道也不好，且只剩下约三至四成的部分可以食用，因此他只选用来自意大利北部巴都亚，以柔软口感和细腻味道著称的雅枝竹苗。 When artichokes grow too big, explains Dell’Aquila, they can become tough and unpalatable, with only 30 to 40 percent of the vegetable being edible. That’s why the chef selects only the freshest baby artichokes from Padua in Northern Italy for their tender texture and delicate flavor. PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

marinated with kombu, fava beans, and herbs from Marius Auda in France and served with parsley sauce and sudachi lemon.

Delicately flavored Dover sole comes from Prodemar, a Spanish company that follows rigorous procedures to ensure that its operations are certified environmentally sustainable. The fish is served with baby celeriac from Eric Roy, ocean-fresh razor clams, and vermouth sauce.

季食材雅枝竹为主角。Michele 的有机小品种雅枝竹苗，配上以蚕豆与来自法国选用来自巴都亚 Marius Auda 起食用。捕获北海道海鳌虾，再搭配蕃茜酱和法国酢橘一农场的香草以及昆布腌渍的可持续自然繁殖的京都雪蟹配上来自法国 Jérôme Galis and Aspa 麦脆包，以及意大利可持续生产的芦笋调制的汤、黑 Calvisius Royal 别致优雅。来自法国的鲜嫩芦笋被放在口感丝滑的汤品上，鲟鱼鱼子酱。制作令人食指大动的意式云吞时， Michele 使用来自日本 Tategamori Ark 非常健康。另一项主要材料，则是法国场采用传统的放养法来饲养鸡只，所以鸡只都农场的鸡蛋。农 Moulin Paul Dupuis 全不使用杀虫剂。这道料理配上生产的有机面粉，种植过程完 Les Frères for the earth | TK | 79

Naturally bred Kyoto Snow Crab is accompanied by a soup of asparagus from sustainability-focused Jérôme Galis and Aspa in France, rye crisp bread, and Calvisius Tradition Royal caviar. Tender asparagus spears from the French producer top the velvety soup. The chef’s remarkable ravioli is made with eggs from Japan’s Tategamori Ark Farm, where healthy chickens are reared by traditional free-range methods, and organic flour produced without insecticides from Moulin Paul Dupuis in France. The dish is served with Reblochon cheese by Les Frères Marchand, spring onion and green peas from Eric Roy and is topped with Périgord black truffle from Bellorr.

For the Dover sole, Duan chooses a chardonnay from Nelson, New Zealand. “New Zealand is a great clean wine country,” he says. “Of their vineyards, 98 percent are certified sustainable. This is a full-bodied chardonnay that has been fermented in French barrels, giving it a beautiful balance between acidity and roundness.” 为配合细致嫩滑的比目鱼，David 选择来自纽西兰尼尔森的霞多丽白葡萄酒作为配搭。他说：「谈到有机、可持续的葡萄酒，纽西兰是一个优秀的来源国，当地 98％的葡萄园都获得可持续认证。这是一款浓烈饱满的霞多丽葡萄酒，在法国橡木桶中发酵让酒体在酸度与圆润口感之间取得完美平衡。」 PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

The six-course menu is paired with sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wines selected by Sommelier David Duan, who worked closely with Dell’Aquila to find the perfect match for each dish on the menu. “There are a few factors that influenced our decisions,” says Duan. “What the main ingredient is, how the food is cooked, and what sauce it is served with – all of these things have an impact on what wine would be best suited.”

Yukimuro snow-aged Wagyu from Japan’s wintry region of Niigata is produced by a two-hundred-year-old technique involv ing use of a traditional snow-covered room to preserve and age the meat naturally. “This is a really new product in the region, and very special,” says Dell’Aquila. “The beef is aged for thirty days, and there are only nine or ten months of the year when they can do it.”The menu concludes with a chocolate delight from France’s Chocolaterie de L’Opéra, the first company in the world dedicated to the creation of single-variety couverture chocolates. Deltora 70% chocolate mousse is served with almond praline from Valencia and a smoked Madong 70% chocolate sauce.

Noting the growing demand for the Celebrate Sustainability menu since its launch as well as for sustainable wines, Duan remarks, “With these wines, much as with sustainable food, a multitude of environmental factors are prioritized as the grapes are grown and harvested and made into wine. People care more and more about how the things we consume have an effect on the environment.”AddsDell’Aquila, “If we don’t invest in good food, we’ll end up investing in medicine. I think it’s a pretty easy choice to make.”

Marchand 软奶酪、法国 Eric Roy 香葱及碗豆，并以来自 Bellorr滋味细致美妙的比目鱼来自的黑松露点缀其上。 Prodemar 符合多项可持续认证。这道鱼料理搭配严格遵守既定程序的西班牙企业，以确保其营运操作，这是一家 Eric Roy 欧洲成法已有两百年历史。着白雪的传统雪屋保存肉品，让肉自然熟成，而这种熟西芹头、新鲜野生蛏子和苦艾酒酱享用。雪室熟成源自日本最寒冷的地区新泻，意指于覆盖 Michele 而且一年中只有约九个月的气候适合进行这种熟成法。」的新产品，而且非常特别。牛肉经过三十天的自然熟成，指出：「这是本地市场上这份菜单以法国 Chocolaterie de l’Opéra 力的生产商。餐厅以结尾，这是世上首家致力于打造单一产地高浓度巧克巧克力 Deltora 70% 的巧克力慕斯，搭配西班牙的焦糖杏仁以及烟熏 Madong 70% 搭配这份六道菜菜单的葡萄酒，是由侍酒师段立巧克力酱。山（David 生产酿造的葡萄酒。他与）挑选出的可持续、有机、以生物动力农法 Michele 密切合作，为菜单上的每道菜找出完美搭配的美酒。David 续葡萄酒的需求与日俱增。些因素都会影响餐酒搭配。」是什么、料理是如何烹制的，以及会搭配什么酱汁，这透露：「主要食材自从正式推出以来，消费者对这份菜单以及可持 David 响。」大家越来越在乎自己的饮食方式会否对环境造成影造的过程中，许多与环境相关的因素都被摆在首位。其实就像可持续食物一样，在葡萄种植、采收以及酿表示：「这些葡萄酒 Michele 该不难取舍。」最后就得把钱花在医疗上。我想这两者对大家来说应补充说：「如果不把资源投资在食物上， Executive Sous Chef Michele Dell’Aquila and Sommelier David Duan 行政助理总厨 Michele Dell’Aquila 侍酒师段立山及 for the earth TK | 81

MOVERS & SHAKERS Cabbage, welsh, Truffle 卷心菜、青蔥、黑松露 → Simon Rogan

Across two hemispheres, a world-renowned chef demonstrates farm-to-fork sustainability. the local larder 风土主导 BY CHRIS DWYER FOR THE EARTH TK | 83

L’ENCLUME CARTMEL①③ ②④

英国烹饪大师 Simon Rogan 的坚定承诺使他备受各界赞誉。好手。他的料理、待客的热忱，以及他对永续是厨艺界的顶尖 Simon 在全球拥有八家餐厅，包括伦敦的 Aulis，英格兰湖区的 L’Enclume、Rogan & Co、Aulis 和 Henrock，以及香港的三家餐厅： Roganic、Aulis 以及 The Baker & The Bottleman。 L’Enclume 荣誉的餐厅。是英格兰北部有史以来首家赢得全球最高烹饪最近荣获第三颗米其林星星， Simon 一起打拼。」历了各种跌宕起伏，多亏有这么了不起的团队年获此殊荣，实在别具意义。一路以来餐厅经是身为厨师最大的野心。在我们开业的第二十表示：「争取米其林三星此外，香港的 Roganic 也在去年被授予米其林绿星。早在 Roganic 获得绿星之前，伦敦的 L’Enclume 就已经获得第一颗绿星，使 Simon 林绿星餐厅的厨师。成为世上唯一在两块大陆上都拥有米其 Simon 及的程度，这番殊荣的确实至名归。的榜样，将永续的理念落实到其他人都望尘莫树立经营永续餐厅 Simon 带一大袋蔬果回家。当时，木瓜、芒果、百香部份是来自家族遗传。他说：「父亲会从市场认为自己对农产品与环境管理的热忱，很大一的父亲在蔬果批发市场工作，他 MOVERS & SHAKERS ① Dry-aged middle white pork shoulder, blade of chard wilted in butter, cipollini onion with black garlic purée, served with a pork-fat crumpet, sauce made from bones and with fig leaf vinegar for acidity, and broth to sip with the last part of the meal 油浸泡的芥菜叶片，干式熟成白猪中肩肉，以奶 cipollini 洋葱配黑蒜泥，佐猪油 ② West-coast mackerel cured with a compote of tomatoes, capers, garlic, sorrel, and juice in a rosehip and tomato essence 以及番茄精华腌制而成柑、大蒜、酸模、玫瑰果汁西岸鲭鱼，以番茄、刺山 ③ Crispy baby leeks hollowed out like tree trunks, Ratte potato purée with Westcombe cheese, leek-top oil 韭葱，如树干一般挖空的脆皮小 Ratte马铃薯泥与 Westcombe奶酪佐葱绿油 ④ Native lobster poached and dressed in an emulsion from the lobster head, elderberry capers, courgette mousse, finished with buttermilk snow and garnished with crispy courgette flower 块，并以清脆的西葫芦花点缀芦慕斯，最后再配上细碎的酪乳调味，搭配接骨木刺山柑、西葫水煮原生龙虾，以龙虾头的虾膏 A passion for produce 保持对农产品的热忱 PAGES)PERCEDINGON2+(5BARNETTCRIS for the earth | TK | 85

BRITISH CULINARY MAESTRO SIMON ROGAN is a chef’s chef, someone universally admired for his cuisine, for his hospitality, and, in particular, for his steadfast commitment to sustainability. His portfolio of eight restaurants worldwide includes Aulis in London; L’Enclume, Rogan & Co, Aulis, and Henrock in England’s Lake District; and three in Hong Kong: Roganic, Aulis, and The Baker & The Bottleman.

L’Enclume was recently awarded its third Michelin star, the first-ever restaurant in the North of England to win the highest of global culinary accolades. “It’s the single biggest ambition to achieve three Michelin stars for your restau rant,” says Rogan, “and in our twentieth year, it was especially meaningful. It’s been a really amazing thrill, thanks to the most amazing team.”On top of that, Roganic in Hong Kong was awarded a Michelin green star last year. With London’s L’Enclume having garnered Rogan’s first Michelin green star, he becomes the only chef in the world to have Michelin-green-star restaurants on two continents. It’s a fitting endorsement of the work of a chef who has defined sustainable restaurant operations and put them into practice to an extent that others can only dream of. Rogan, whose father worked at a whole sale fruit and vegetable market, sees his passion for produce and environmental stew ardship in many ways as part of his family heritage. “He’d come home with a bagful from the market,” he says. “Back then, papayas and mangoes, passion fruit and star fruit were the new thing. They ignited the inquisitive nature in me as a cook, but also a sustainable feel ing, because I didn’t want to see things go to waste. I researched how to use them and cook them, and that started me off as a chef with whom nothing is wasted.” His first restaurant job came in England’s remote New Forest. “I’d go out with the sous chef, picking wild mushrooms, sorrel, wild garlic. I always enjoyed it and always wanted a restaurant in a rural location. L’Enclume totally connected to the surroundings and the local larder.”A visit to what Rogan has simply named Our Farm in Cumbria’s Cartmel Valley reveals with what thought and care this vision has been achieved. At his restaurants, the entire process of culinary preparation, from harvesting

“Our ‘farm to fork’ ethos is central to everything we do,” he says. “It all starts at Our Farm, which is now a world-class operation, supplying some very busy restaurants with large-scale productivity. It has to be sus tainable, even in winter, so we overproduce in the summer, making sure we have twelve months of produce to carry us through.” Rogan now has a sustainability officer working alongside the team to ensure that every aspect of the business is as green as possible. Not one scrap of food is wasted, and all organic matter is composted.

While Hong Kong is clearly a very different terroir from Cumbria, even there, the chef has managed to show at Roganic just what is pos sible. “When we considered Hong Kong, we made the bold decision to do exactly what we do here. We didn’t realize how many organic farms there are in the New Territories. It just proves that if you look hard enough and believe in what you’re doing, you’ll get what you’re looking for. The only difference really is that in England, we grow our ingredients in the summer, and in Hong Kong, in the winter. They’re just as good – beets, cabbages, turnips, radishes, carrots are all readily available in Hong Kong.”

想在农村地区开一家餐厅。蘑菇、酸模和野生大蒜。我始终乐在其中，也新森林。「我会跟副主厨一起出去，采摘野生位不浪费任何食材的厨师。」如何使用、烹煮这些食材。就这样，我成为一续意识，因为我不想看到食物被浪费。我研究我作为一位厨师的好奇心，同时也激发我的永果跟杨桃对我们来说很新奇。这些农产品点燃他的第一份餐厅工作位于英格兰偏远的 L’Enclume 围的环境与当地的野生食材紧密相系。」就跟周 Simon 将位于坎布里亚郡卡梅尔谷的农场直呼为 Our Farm

Simon 但即使在香港，主厨也成功在有机物全被拿去制作堆肥。尽可能环保。这里没有任何一丁点食物浪费，总监及团队一起合作，确保业务的每个面向都目前与一位永续香港的风土显然与坎布里亚截然不同， Roganic 星等之外，对端出一道道备受赞誉的佳肴，以及追求米其林芜菁、萝卜、红萝卜都是本地生产的。」是在冬天。这里的食材一样好，甜菜、包心菜、在英国，我们在夏天种植食材，而来到香港则有信心，就能找到自己要的。唯一差别在于，场。这就证明如果你努力寻找、对自己的作为港。我们没想到原来新界那边有非常多有机农大胆的决定，就是把我们在这里做的事搬到香续环保。「构思香港的餐厅时，我们做了非常落实永除了继续以他的永续理念来烹饪料理， Simon 确的方式做事，以及知道该做些什么。」来说最重要的是「用正 MOVERS & SHAKERS ① Scallop with local tomato, oyster and caviar 扇贝，本地番茄，生蚝，鱼子酱 ② Private room 餐厅的私人包厢 ③ Drinks trolley service 餐酒等饮品放置在推车上，在客人桌边服务 Our Farm (4)BARNETTCRIS 86 TK for the earth

to plating, can take, astonishingly, less than an hour. His team grows an enormous range of crops, from the familiar to the intriguingly exotic: Japanese wineberries, elkhorn fern, and buck’s-horn plantain are not exactly commonplace in Cumbria.

But beyond the exceptional dishes that are the product of his approach and that continue to win acclaim, and beyond the pursuit of Michelin stars, for Rogan “it’s doing things the right way, a beacon for what can be done.” 始于心精神。」他说：「这一切都程中，『农场直送餐桌』是核以及车前草。当少见的日本酒莓、鹿角蕨国植物都有，像是在当地相熟悉的作物到耐人寻味的异的团队种植大量农作物，从时，速度之快令人惊讶。他完整烹饪过程不会超过一小他的餐厅，从采收到装盘的一圈，就能体会他如何用心实践永续理念。在（我们的农场）。到农场绕「在餐厅的所有作业流 Our Farm 物。」确保十二个月都有足够的作所以我们会在夏天超量生产，续概念，连在冬天也不例外。食材。农场营运必须符合永些非常繁忙的餐厅提供大量级的营运规格，我们也替一，这里有世界

ROGANIC HONG KONG ② ①③

living traditions 生生不息

I have a dessert on the tasting menu at Duomo called Santa Lucia, White Milk, which shows my respect for the history, people, and traditional food of Sicily. It’s dedicated to Saint Lucy of Syracuse, one of Sicily’s most famous saints. The dish is pure white in color and based on the flavor of goat’s milk. It consists of a granita, a semifreddo, and a milk foam and is topped with grains of vanilla puffedJustwheat.down the road from Duomo is my more informal restau rant, I Banchi. There, I serve a very traditional snack called Scaccia Ragusana. It’s a savory snack made from layered pastry that comes with a variety of fillings. It’s important to me to have it on the menu because it was invented close to where I Banchi is located.

是什么让西西里如此独特？饮食文化。拉伯人、诺曼人、西班牙人，造就了西西里独特的外族先后来到西西里，包括腓尼基人、希腊人、阿史悠久，拥有丰富的文化与风情。自古以来，许多西西里是一座迷人的小岛。这里物产丰饶、历 Duomo 认识这里的风土民情。不只作为保存文化的媒介，也让外地游客透过料理的餐点多以西西里的历史文化为灵感，哪一道菜式令您引以为傲？ Duomo 的招牌甜点：Santa Lucia, White Milk 食的崇高敬意。它以「锡拉库萨的圣露西亚」（这道甜点展现出我对西西里的历史、人文、传统美， Saint Lucy of Syracuse 圣徒致敬。这道招牌甜点由意式冰沙（）为灵感，向这位殉道于西西里的 granita）、意式「半冷冻」甜点（semifreddo 圣徒的纯洁无瑕。满溢浓浓羊奶风味，佐以香草麦粒，乳白色泽好比）和奶香细沫制成，另一道料理是 Scaccia Ragusan 式馅料的传统咸味馅饼，你可以在我的另一间餐厅，一种包着各 I Banchi 吃到这道料理。这间餐厅与 Duomo 在远，提供家常料理为主，像是这道馅饼料理，就是相距不 I Banchi 附近发明的。 Lucy Morgan interviews Chef Ciccio Sultano of two-Michelin-starred restaurant Duomo in Ragusa Ibla, Italy. As a widely respected custodian of Sicily’s gastronomic history and guardian of its future, Sultano sees the true path to sustainability as committed support for his local community of producers. § Lucy Morgan 与在意大利拉古萨旧城伊布拉经营米其林二星餐厅 Duomo 的主厨 Ciccio Sultano 进行专访，了解这位西西里传统美食的拥护者，如何以永续精神支持当地农场以及西西里的未来发展。 BORNÒGIUSEPPE for the earth | TK | 89

Sicily is an enchanted island, full of riches in its ingredients, history, culture, and people. Phoenicians, Greeks, Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards invaded, then left the territory. The influences of their food, wine, and customs have been absorbed by Sicilians to create our distinctive cuisine.

What makes your homeland so special?

The dishes I serve at Duomo represent different periods of Sicilian history. It’s a way to preserve the culture of my homeland and to allow visitors to learn the history and culture of this special place. Can you give us an example of one of your dishes?

MOVERS & SHAKERS

One example is my investment in a chicken farm called Aia Gaia just a few miles from Duomo restaurant, and there are multiple reasons why I have invested in it. The first is to ensure that the hens and the eggs are healthy and of high quality. We use a local breed of hen, Livornese. Our chickens roam free and feed on orange blossoms and wildflowers. This gives the egg yolks the most incredible floral flavor, which then continues into the dishes I create with them.

What do you think is the meaning of sustainability?

「永续」对您而言有何意义？源起于大地之母的怀抱。作，他们熟悉自然的规律，也明白万物都我也乐于和对大自然抱有敬畏之心的人合如何在延续传统的同时，和新的时代接轨。作过，他们对自己的专业相当了解，明白要的。自我开业以来，与许多专业人士合「永续」始于人与人的连结，这是最重请问您如何支持本地农场？举例来说，我目前正与 Aia Gaia 养鸡场合作。这间养鸡场离

I also work closely with Alessandro Criscione, a local cheese farmer who makes both fresh ricotta and a cheese known in the local dialect as Cosacavaddu Ibleo. He makes all his cheeses by hand and his products are wonderful.

Duomo 用以放养方式饲养的本地确保鸡只和鸡蛋的品质稳定。我们特别选不远，可以 Livornese 让餐点带有淡淡花香。使用橙花等野花作为饲料，产出来的蛋黄鸡种，我也和 Alessandro Criscione 场合作，他们的里科塔奶酪和一种名为酪农 Cosacavaddu Ibleo 作，尝来相当美妙。的奶酪皆为新鲜手工制为什么您特别喜欢与本地农场合作？文化生生不息。免人口外流，同时也是守住本地传统，让并传承下去，进而制造更多工作机会，避场上有需求，传统农业技术才能继续保存持的不只是它们，还有西西里的未来。市合作，也可以降低运输成本。不过，我支少量生产可以确保品质稳定。和本地农场前面提到的两个农家都是本地小农， “ I like to work with people who respect nature and its rhythms and who do not forget their origins. 我也乐于和对大自然抱有敬畏之心的人合作，他们熟悉自然的规律，也明白万物都源起于大地之母的怀抱。” Ciccio Sultano MOVERS & SHAKERS BORNÒGIUSEPPE 90 TK for the earth

What do you especially like about working with local farmers?

Above all, it comes from human connections. Since my restaurant opened, I have forged partnerships with people who know their professions thoroughly, who know how to develop tradition, making it contemporary. I like to work with people who respect nature and its rhythms and who do not forget their origins.

How do you support those people in your area?

Both the cheese and egg farmers have a fairly small output, and this means they can concentrate on high standards for their produce. Buying from local farmers keeps food transport mileage down and is cheaper than importing. But the biggest advantage is that I am investing in the future of Sicily. These traditional farming methods are being preserved and families can pass their skills down to future generations. It creates jobs for the local community, meaning they don’t have to move away to find work. And this helps preserve the integrity of communities and families and keeps tradi tions alive.

sustainablebynature 禅心斋蔬 A Buddhist nun receives one of the culinary world’s highest accolades for her frugal and flavorful approach to plant-based cooking.

食的料理手法，让静观师太荣获分。秉持温和而自然的厨艺之道，且深谙蔬对静观师太而言，永续饮食已是生活的一部 2022 年「亚洲 50 粒米饭都不该浪费中，从小就学会节俭，从不浪费食物，饮食静观师太生长在有七个小孩的大家庭最佳餐厅」的「标志人物奖」。习惯也相当朴素。静观师太在十七岁时出家，寺院的食物多为外界捐赠，也让她体认到惜福的重要。她说：「万物有灵，我们必须予以尊重，一，所以我们只拿我们需要的份量，连洗碗用的水也是如此。」 Netflix 备寺院膳食的工作。静观师太的料理用材简内藏山国立公园的白羊寺修行，平时负责准见了静观师太。她在建于七世纪、位于南韩纪录片《主厨的餐桌》让世界看 Jeong Kwan 静观师太 BY LUCY MORGAN (3)KWANJEONGOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 93

FOR JEONG KWAN, sustainable cooking is an integral part of life. Her gentle, instinctive approach, teamed with seasoned skill in creating beauti ful and delicious vegan dishes, has earned her the Icon Award 2022 from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Growing up in a large family as one of seven children, she learned to be economical from a young age by avoiding waste and exercising restraint with ingredients. When she became a nun at the age of seventeen, Jeong recognized the importance of appreciating donations of food from the community. “All ingredients have life, and we should respect this,” she says. “If we honor life, we should not let even one grain of rice go to waste. This is why we only take as much food as we need and eat everything, including the water that cleans the bowl, at the monastery.”Jeongcaptured the public’s attention when she was featured in a Netflix documentary preparing food at Baekyangsa, a seventh-century temple located within South Korea’s Naejangsan National Park. Her

MOVERS & SHAKERS

exquisite vegan dishes are crafted from simple ingredients, but she avoids allium plants, which, she believes, inhibit tranquil thought, preferring to add flavor with aged soy sauces.

Exquisite vegan dishes from simple ingredients 以简单食材烹制而成的精致蔬食料理 MOVERS & SHAKERS (3)KWANJEONGOFCOURTESY 94 TK for the earth

Taking a thrifty root-to-leaf approach to plants, she tries to use every part to avoid wastage and make food go further. “Roots and the tougher leaves can be used to make broth,” she says. “I also try to eat vegetables and fruits with the skin on. When cooking, remember how the ingredients came from the greatness of nature, as well as from the farmers’ efforts.” Kwan also experiments with fermentation, finding it a healthful way to both preserve excess produce and inject bright flavor into dishes. “When you ferment a plant, you give it a second life.” Making the most of seasonal ingredients when they are at their peak is essential to Jeong. “The four distinct seasons of Korea all have their special characteristics and so do the ingredients that grow during each one,” she says. “Time is very important when it comes to enjoying the ingredients to the fullest with regard to nutrients and taste.” Although her philosophical approach to cooking and mastery of ancient temple cuisine have gained her international recognition, Jeong Kwan continues to shun the limelight, considering herself a nun rather than a chef. She views her culinary artistry as a service, a practice, and a part of her life. “To me, cook ing is not about being fancy or showing off difficult skills but becoming one with the ingredients. The heart and soul put into the food will be received by the people who eat it and create a positive and sustainable cycle.” 心，创造一种正向而生生不息的循环。」食材合而为一。吃的人可以感受到你的用烹饪追求的不是华丽的技巧，而是如何与侣」而非「厨师」自居。她说：「对我而言，的实践，即使扬名国际，她还是以一名「僧营养，就必须注意蔬果生长的时节。」要品尝蔬果的最佳风味，完整吸收它们的季分明，每一季都有当季的特色蔬果。想入菜，把握最新鲜的美味。她说：「韩国四物，是赐给食物第二生命。」间，还能增添料理的风味。她说：「发酵食食材发酵处理，不但能延长食物的保存时以一茎一叶都不能浪费。」静观师太也会将大自然的礼物，也是农民的心血结晶，所蔬果连皮吃。烹饪时，要谨记这些食材是维较粗的菜叶可以拿来熬汤。我也尝试把让根茎叶都能入菜。她说：「蔬菜的根和纤量稳定。等刺激的辛辣香料，以维持僧侣的精神力单，仅以陈年酱油调味，避免使用葱、蒜静观师太秉持「惜材爱物」的理念，静观师太的原则之一，是以当季蔬果静观师太视烹饪为人生的修行、生活

“I DON’T USE LEMONS, I don’t use olive oil, I don’t use sugar in my food, because they aren’t Manx,” says Chef Pippa Lovell of Versa, her twenty-cover restau rant in the seaside village of Port Erin in the southwest corner of the Isle of Man. After moving to the self-governing British crown dependency located in the Irish Sea, Lovell entered the S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition in the sustainability and social responsibility category. Her dish, which used a rare native breed of sheep called Loaghtan, featured a lamb cannon cooked sous-vide in water from the stream where the animal drank, plants that grew within Line-caught monkfish from Port St Mary seasoned with spruce salt, juiced fresh sorrel, alexander, wild fennel and apple

鲜酢浆草汁、亚历山大、野生茴香和苹果调味从圣玛丽港捕获的安康鱼以云杉盐、 96 TK for the earth

YOUNG CHEF At restaurant Versa on the Isle of Man, Chef Pippa Lovell is committed to using hyper-local ingredients. manx BY LUCY MORGAN

strictly

马恩岛限定

Lovell’s dish won the competition’s European regional final. “I designed it to my standards, to how I believe food should be,” she says. “Then I thought, why would I ever design a dish again that doesn’t come up to my standards? Why produce food waste when you don’t need to?” She soon started Versa as a pop-up in a local winery, doing everything herself, from cooking and washing up to front-of-house and accounts. After a year, she found Versa’s current home – a short walk from the harbor, through a conifer-green door, and up a flight of wooden stairs – and began with a budget of four hundred pounds.Her limited funds encouraged her to keep costs down by using numerous foraged ingredients for her evening tasting menu. As a responsible forager, Lovell harvests only small amounts, collecting plants on her way to work or on her breaks between shifts. The beach provides dulse, sea lettuce, sea spinach, kelp, and sea rad ishes. A small wooded glen about ten minutes’ walk from Versa is

「我不用柠檬、不用橄榄油，也不会在料理中放糖，因为这些东西都不是来自马恩岛。」 Versa 的主厨 Pippa Lovell 后，海滨村庄开了一家拥有二十个座位的餐厅。这样说道。她在马恩岛西南角艾琳港的搬到这个位于爱尔兰海的英国王室自治属地 Pippa 参加 S. Pellegrino 蜜制成焦糖馅。配以当地啤酒作为釉面的甜甜圈，用牧场出产的蜂她运用在羊只放牧地内生长的植物替料理增色，搭并且以羊饮用的溪水来进行真空低温烹煮。另外，羔羊里脊排使用一种名为洛克顿的罕见本地羊种，她的参赛组别为永续发展与社会责任组。她端出的举办的青年主厨大赛， Pippa 费食物呢？」心中标准的菜了！如果有办法避免，为什么还要浪来设计这道菜。然后我就想，我不会再做出不符合示：「我用自己的标准、以自己认为食物该有的样貌凭借这道料理在欧洲地区决赛获胜。她表 ← Bradda Glen, home to wild garlic and watercress 洋菜的长满野生大蒜和西 Bradda Glen ↖ Sea spaghetti, fresh ricotta, wild pesto with foraged nuts, alexanderfermentedstalksandcapers 果青酱，发酵亚历科塔奶酪，野生坚野生海藻，新鲜里山大茎及刺山柑 ↑ Chef grownharvestsLovelllocallycurrantsatStaarveyFarm 主厨Pippa在当地的Staarvey 场采集黑醋栗农 GLEN)(BRADDALOVELADYDAVID(3),HARVEYELISHA for the earth | TK | 97

a small radius of its grazing field, and a donut glazed in local beer and stuffed with a caramel made from honey from the farm where the lamb had been raised.

The cliff paths are edged with highly invasive but edible plants like three-cornered leeks, an allium redolent of scallion, and alexander, an attractive and statuesque weed with a strong parsley flavor. “We try to use these invasive species as much as possible,” she says, “not just because they taste good, but also because they grow rapidly and crowd out other plants, making it harder for them to thrive. When we take some three-cornered leeks or alexander, we make space for less aggressive species to flourish, resetting the balance.”

Versa’s savory starter of tempura-battered threecornered leeks is served with a delicious dipping sauce 她随即在当地一座酒厂中开设 Versa 到清理收拾、前台服务以及结帐收银都一手包办。一年后，她找快闪餐厅，从烹饪、 Versa 的采集觅食者，运用实地采集而来的食材来降低成本。作为一位秉持永续精神四百英镑的餐厅。拥的门道，再走上一段木质阶梯，就能抵达这间创始预算仅的现址，这里距离港口仅一步之遥。穿越由针叶树簇由于资金有限，在设计晚餐时段的品尝菜单时，她会大量 Pippa 海草及野萝卜。在距离物，而且每次只采收少量的食材。海滩上有红藻、石莼、番杏、会趁着上班途中或轮班休息时间采集植 Versa 韭葱、一种带有青葱香气的葱属植物，以及亚历山大这种外表里则有辛辣的西洋菜。野生大蒜的香气清晰可辨，而在一座水平面高于大海的淡水池步行约十分钟的一个小树林里，悬崖上的小径旁长满可食用的外来入侵植物，例如三角 ↑ The Isle of Man provides Chef Lovell with plenty of opportunitiesforaging 主厨Pippa 采集作物入馔恩岛可以尽情在马 ↗ leek,Three-corneredsalt-bakedceleriacanddulsetartiflette 三角韭菜、盐焗芹菜和红藻土豆饼 → Elderflower pastry with creamchamomileandyoungspruceneedles 菊奶油及云杉针苗接骨木花酥配洋甘 98 TK for the earth

YOUNG CHEF fragrant with wild garlic. A freshwater pool overlooking the ocean yields peppery watercress.

made from salt-baked carrots, chilies grown by local chil dren involved in a community project, and alexander, with its wonderfully herbal flavor. Using as much foraged and hyper-locally sourced pro duce as she can, Lovell changes the tasting menu almost daily to reflect what’s available. She ventures a bit farther for harder-to-obtain ingredients, including the cold-pressed rapeseed oil and high-quality dairy products and goat cheese that are produced in the north of the island. Lovell does not use any imported produce, so when a lemon is called for, she replaces it with spruce, which has an uncan nily similar taste. Hogweed seeds make a great cardamom substitute, and vanilla can be replaced by woodruff juice or fig leaves.Besides foraging, Lovell operates a barter system whereby locals are encouraged to exchange produce they grow for brunch at the restaurant. “The name Versa,” she explains, “comes partly from ‘vice versa,’ implying a rela tionship. We create relationships with the community, and the more people we encourage to grow things at home, the greener it all becomes. Sustainability is at the core of everything – we practice composting, we use solar panels, and we don’t generate waste. The whole point is to have the smallest footprint possible.”

迷人、庄严优雅的杂草，一靠近就能闻到强烈的欧芹香味。 Pippa 间，使其成长茁壮，让生态恢复平衡。」一些三角韭菜或亚历山大，就能为侵略性较低的物种挪出空到其他植物的生长空间，使其他植物难以存活。只要能采集因为它们很美味，另一方面是因为它们生长速度快，会挤压说：「我们尽量用这些外来入侵的植物入菜。一方面是 Versa 植的辣椒，还有充溢奇妙草本香气的亚历山大。沾酱的食材包含盐烤胡萝卜、当地孩童在社区参与计划中种的可口开胃菜是三角韭菜天妇罗搭配美味的沾酱。 Pippa 部的山羊奶酪。原料，例如冷压菜籽油、高品质乳制品，以及产自马恩岛北上的菜式。她不辞辛劳到更遥远的地方找寻难以获得的食材而且为了反映当日现有的食材，几乎每天都会变更品尝菜单尽可能使用采集而来或完全来自本地的作物入馔， Pippa 果叶来取代。种子是小豆蔻的绝佳替代品，香草则能用香车叶草汁或无花要用到柠檬时，她会用味道极其相似的云杉来代替。大豕草不使用任何进口商品，所以当料理需除了野外采集之外， Pippa 「鼓励当地人用自家种植的作物来换取餐厅的早午餐。她解释：还推动一项以物易物的制度， Versa 这个名字有一部份是来自『vice versa 减少我们在地球上留下的足迹，构建更美好的未来。」肥、使用太阳能发电，而且不制造废弃垃圾。重点就是尽可能个环境就会更绿意盎然。永续发展是一切的核心，我们制作堆互关系。我们与社群建立关系，鼓励更多人在家栽种作物，整』，意思是一种交 caption 或 (AERIAL)LOVELADYDAVID(3),HARVEYELISHA for the earth | TK | 99

Canada is a leading source of environmentally friendly food products that are sought by chefs around the world. sustainabilityexporting 永续「枫」味 Prime Canadian Rib Eye Steak 选用加拿大牛肉的肋眼牛排 100 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

CANADIAN SUSTAINABILITY

ELLA

IF A SINGLE FARMER OR SEAFOOD PRODUCER focuses on sustainability, the effect is minimal. If a handful make it a prior ity, the impact may still make little long-term difference. But if a nation’s government actively promotes food sustainability by sup porting entire industries, the benefits to people and the planet are immense. That, in fact, is just the approach the government of Canada has adopted.

Equally dedicated to the supply longevity of wild seafood is Ocean Choice International, a family-owned company that has made sustainability a priority since its founding in 2000. Its new offshore fishing vessel, the only one designated “green class” in 的助益。事实上，加拿大政府采取的就是这种措施。进食品的永续发展，那对人类与地球来说就是莫大变。但是，如果国家政府能扶持食品产业，积极促将永续视为第一要务，影响力或许依然难以促成改续发展，所达成的效果相当有限；要是只有少数人如果只有一位农民或一间海鲜产品制造商专注于永加拿大驻港澳总领事馆领事及高级商务专员 Patricia Elliott 式各样的举措，例如持续投资科学、研究与创新等力维持、保护丰富的自然资源与环境。我们采取各政府多年来致力于协助国内的农业与渔业产业，尽表示：「加拿大是世界食品外销大国，面向，并且直接提供资金。」这些措施代表农民能在稳定并减少碳排放的同时，将产量提高一倍。针对渔业，政府的协助让渔民能用更环保负责的手法来养殖以及捕捞海产。 Patricia 产品的品质与风味皆无人能敌。是因为相关产业对永续环保的重视，更因为这些农农产品在世界各地受到顶级厨师的青睐，而这不仅式。」同时也能找出为环境带来正面效益的方了能满足未来全球人口对食物的需求，指出：「这些都以永续的方式进行，除多亏加拿大政府的努力，加拿大的屡获殊荣的香港主厨 VICKI WILLIAMS• BY JOE KWONG• BY WONG

Jaakko Sorsa 活奔放的番红花海鲜饭，以来自野生海鲜供应商拿大的优质农产品制作出三道菜式。其中风味鲜，使用加 Clearwater 的北极贝、冰山蚌，以及白玉贝為主角。 Clearwater 供符合永续精神的海鲜产品，并在创立至今已有四十多年历史，致力于提 2021 现代捕捞手法，以及对生态环境负责任的管理措施。营运理念包含永续捕捞、从海洋到餐桌的可追溯性、捕捞场严格遵守政府准许的总捕捞量，其整体核心由原住民持有的公司。这家公司的近海蚌壳与贝类年成为一家同样致力于供应野生海鲜产品的还有 Ocean Choice International，这是一家家族企业，自 2000 降低对环境的影响。他们有超过九成的捕捞海鲜都色级别」的渔船，目前已大幅减少碳足迹，并成功海渔船是加拿大底栖鱼船队中唯一被指名为「绿年成立以来，一直将永续发展视为首要任务。其近 BY

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Consul and Senior Trade Commissioner, the Consulate General of Canada in Hong Kong and Macao Patricia Elliott explains: “Canada is a top exporter of food products to the world. The government of Canada has been committed for many years to helping the country’s agriculture and fisheries sectors preserve and protect our wealth of natural resources and our environment. This takes many forms, including ongoing investments in sci ence, research, and innovation, as well as direct funding.”

All of this has meant that farmers have been able to double production while stabilizing and reducing emis sions. For fisheries, government support ensures the farming and harvesting of seafood stocks using respon sible methods.“It’sallbeen done in a sustainable manner to meet the future global demand for food while looking for ways to have a positive impact on the environment,” says Elliott.

Award-winning Hong Kong chef Jaakko Sorsa uses premium Canadian products in creating three of his most appealing dishes, including vibrant Saffron Paella. It features surf, propeller, and cockle clams, all sourced from Clearwater, a supplier of wild-caught sea food for more than forty years. Dedicated to sustainable seafood excellence, Clearwater became an indigenous-owned company in 2021. Its offshore clam fishery strictly adheres to an authorized total allowable catch, and its overall core business values include sustainable harvesting, ocean-to-plate traceability, modern fishing practices, and ecologically responsible management.

Because of Canada’s efforts, the country’s produce is prized around the world by top chefs, not only for its sustainable pedigree but also because of the resulting high quality and outstanding flavor.

Clearwater clearwater.ca Ocean Choice oceanchoice.com Seafood Platter, with products from Ocean Choice International 来自海鲜拼盘，海产 Ocean InternationalChoice 102 | TK | for the earth

CANADIAN SUSTAINABILITY the Canadian groundfish fleet, has achieved a significantly reduced carbon footprint and lower environmental impact. Over 90 percent of the species harvested are certi fied by the Marine Stewardship Council or are part of a Fisheries Improvement Project. Using a range of the company’s seafood, Chef Sorsa creates his decadent Seafood Platter of snow crab legs, sea cucumber glazed with oyster sauce, shell-on shrimp, and Yellow Tail flounder fillet ceviche. Completing the feast is the chef’s Prime Canadian Rib Eye Steak, cooked sous vide at 54 C to medium rare and then pan-fried. It is served with red wine sauce, yellow beetroot, roasted halved Italian garlic, and baby San Marzano tomatoes. The beef is supplied by Canada Beef International Institute, a nonprofit organization that delivers market development and promotion programs as well as other ser vices in all markets of interest to the Canadian beef industry. Canadian beef is known for its high-quality marbling, tenderness, and impressive flavor that result from exemplary livestock breeding, family farms, a cold cli mate, rich grasslands, and grain feeding. Elliott notes that Canada’s beef produc tion has one of the lowest greenhouse gas footprints in the world, due to improved animal feed efficiencies, exemplary cattle breeding, production technologies that result in healthy, well-cared-for animals, and effec tive monitoring and protection of soil and water“Canadianquality. agri-food products are sus tainable,” says Elliott, “not just because our farmers and fishermen work responsibly, but also because our country invests in the development of new, innovative technolo gies that allow us to farm more with less. We’ve been striving for decades to improve the sustainability of our agriculture sector, and consumers of Canadian agri-food prod ucts, both at home and abroad, can enjoy the taste and quality of our food as well as the environmental results.” Trade Commissioner Service tradecommissioner.gc.ca Canadian canadabeef.ca

Beef

In addition to its role as a major exporter of top products, Canada is leading the way with sustainabilityfocused conferences. Elliott highlights three of special interest to food professionals around the globe: • The first-ever Plant Forward Conference in Toronto (November 1-2, 2022) • The 15th UN Biodiversity Conference, Part 2, in Montreal (December 5-17, 2022) • The 22nd GOAL Responsible Seafood Conference in New Brunswick (Autumn 2023) 获得海洋管理委员会（Marine Stewardship Council）认证，或者是属于渔业改进计划（Fisheries Improvement Project）的其中一部分。主厨 Jaakko 及柠汁腌黄尾鲽鱼片。包括雪蟹腿、淋上生蚝酱的海参、带壳虾以品，打造出令人垂涎三尺的海鲜拼盘，当中使用该公司的一系列海鲜产另一道不容小觑的料理，则是 Jaakko 精心料理的加拿大极佳级肋眼牛排。牛排在 54 ˚C 物喂饲。当地寒冷的气候、丰富的草原，以及使用谷的牲畜育种手法和家庭农场养殖环境，还有所以如此优异，是因为他们有值得大家仿效嫩度以及令人口齿留香的风味。牛肉品质之为人称道的特色，就是高品质的油花分布、市场发展和推广项目及服务。加拿大牛肉最为加拿大牛肉行业利益相关的所有市场提供牛肉协会提供，该协会是一个非盈利组织，小圣马尔扎诺番茄一起享用。牛肉由加拿大牛排搭配红酒酱、黄甜菜、烤意大利大蒜与的低温下烹制到半熟，接着拿去香煎。 Patricia 与维护。同时，他们也针对土壤与水质进行实质监测种生产技术也让动物更健康、得到良好照顾。饲的效率，还有优秀的牛群繁殖技术，而各室气体足迹很低。这是因为他们提高动物喂指出，加拿大生产的牛肉的温 Patricia 境保护的成果。」产品与海鲜产品的风味和品质，更能受益于环者，无论身处国内还是海外，都能享受我们农于提升渔农业的永续性。加拿大农产品的消费源来耕作、养殖及捕捞。几十年来，我们致力意挹注资金来开发创新技术，得以用更少的资民秉持负责任的心态来工作，也是因为我国愿永续发展理念。这不仅是因为我们的农民和渔透露：「加拿大的农产品绝对符合除了为其产品感到自豪外，加拿大还在以永续发展为重点的会议方面处于领先地位。Patricia 认为全球食品专业人士会感兴趣的三个方面包括： • （在多伦多举办的首届植物产业发展会议 2022 年 11 月 1 日至 2 日） • 性大会第二部分（在蒙特利尔举办的第十五届联合国生物多样 2022 年 12 月 5 日至 17 日） • 在新不伦瑞克举办的第 22 届 GOAL 负责任海鲜会议（2023 年秋季） Saffron Paella, with shellfish from Clearwater 番红花海鲜饭，搭配来自 Clearwater的贝类产品 for the earth | TK | 103

To the Māori of New Zealand, the annual rising of the star cluster Matariki signals a new year of abundance from land and sea. stars of bounty 丰收之星

PRESENTED BY NZTE MATARIKI, named for the cluster of stars also widely known as the Pleiades and the Seven Sisters, is the day marking the start of the Māori New Year. For the first time in its long history, it has been declared a public holiday in New Zealand, observed this year on June 24.

Matariki 义。」要素，现在已是现代新西兰文化的定是毛利文化的关键 Matariki 这些食物通常以以仪式性的食物来向这些星星致敬，食物有直接的关联。传统上，民众星团中的一些星星与 hāngī 统一直延续至今，霍建华表示：「现在，食物是，即土炉来烹制。这项传 Matariki 一项最著名的出口食材，而来自新西兰富饶土地的羊肉，是当地其中的核心概念。」 Lumina 羊肉（从前被称为 Te Mana 菊苣的草场上。经过十五年育种研究，自然放养的草食法饲育而成，更是养在专门培育爱用的食材，在港澳地区也是如此。羊只以天然、强，是世界各地高级餐厅与米其林星级餐厅主厨理，口感与软嫩度无与伦比，而且烹饪可塑性极格外受到关注。这种羊肉具有极为细致的脂肪纹羊肉）则因其环保永续的精神 Lumina 念。场大多都是世代相传，借此实践永续经营的理羊在家族农场中按照严格标准饲养而成。这些农为了呈现羊肉无与伦比的品质，香港的 Jaakko Sorsa 主厨最近烹制了慢烤 Lumina 菜子、细叶芹与黑皮诺酱汁。柳，佐南瓜泥、黑蒜和芹菜泥、炖菠菜、腌制芥羊颈 BY VICKI WILLIAMS• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN Slow-roasted Lumina Lamb Neck Fillet, with Tiki Single Vineyard North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2019 慢煮Lumina羊颈柳配搭2019 Tiki单一园北坎特伯雷黑皮诺红葡萄酒 for the earth | TK | 105

From New Zealand’s rich land comes one of the country’s most famous edible exports, lamb, and Lumina Lamb (previously known as Te Mana Lamb) is especially noteworthy for its environmentally responsi ble ethos. Served in fine-dining and Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, including in Hong Kong and Macau, it offers exceptional micro-marbling never before achieved, along with superior texture and tenderness and exceptional versatility. It is completely natural, free-range, grass-fed, and finished on specially cultivated chicory herb pastures.

Signifying the end of harvest and the beginning of winter, it is a time to gather with family, to pass on knowledge and oral traditions, to remember those who are gone, and to make plans for the year ahead.

As a deeply meaningful cultural celebration, it has time-honored connections to the reaping of riches from the ocean and the earth, with ancient practices of sustainability and care for nature at its core.

To celebrate its unrivaled qualities, award-winning Hong Kong–based Chef Jaakko Sorsa recently created Slow Roasted Lumina Lamb Neck Fillet, complemented by pumpkin purée, black garlic and celeriac purée, braised spinach, marinated mustard seeds, chervil, and pinot noir sauce.The perfect accompaniment for such a dish is, of course, wine, and Matariki 纪念逝者与制定来年计划的时机。根据新西兰贸始，是一个与家人团聚、传授知识与口述传统、践。这个节庆象征收获季节的结束以及冬季的开联系，其核心是永续环保与关爱自然的古老实与来自海洋和陆地的丰硕收成有着历史悠久的西兰人会在六月二十四日欢庆毛利新年。月后，新西兰宣布这一天成为公共假期，今年新名，这天标志着毛利新年之始。经历了漫长的岁以广为人知的昴宿星团和七姊妹星团为作为一项意义深远的文化庆典，毛利新年易发展局香港及澳门商务参赞霍建华所述：「

According to Trade Commissioner of New Zealand Trade and Enterprise for Hong Kong and Macau Kiwa Whatarau, “Matariki is a key aspect of Māori culture that has now come to define modern New Zealand culture.” Some of the stars in the Matariki cluster are directly associated with foods, and traditionally a ceremonial food offering was made to honor them, often using a hāngī, or earth oven, in which various foods were cooked. It’s a tradition that still continues, and, says Whatarau, “Today, food is at the center of Matariki.”

The result of fifteen years of breeding research, Lumina Lamb is raised under strict criteria on family farms, many passed down from generation to generation for sustainable longevity.

New Zealand’s diverse terrain boasts many fine producers. Two of its award-winners are Tohu and Tiki, both Māori-owned.

As the world’s first Māori wine collective, Tohu encompasses more than four thousand owner families who grow their grapes with knowledge of the soil passed down from ancestors. Tohu’s philosophy is to create wines that capture the essence of each region’s unique environment while respecting and protecting the land for generations to come. Family-owned Tiki is named after the founder’s great-greatgreat grandfather. Part of its sustainability story is caring for its vines under the Māori guiding principle known as kaitiakitanga, the guard ianship and preservation of the earth for the future.

的酒业集团样的新西兰当然不乏优秀的酒庄，其中两家获奖葡萄酒自然是这道菜的完美搭配，而地形多 Tohu 和 Tiki 作为全球首个毛利葡萄酒集团，都是毛利人所有。Tohu 丰富知识来种植葡萄。四千多个家族运营酒庄，他们运用祖传的对土壤的包括 Tohu 保护土地，让土地能够世代相传。家族拥有的捉每个地区的独特环境精髓的葡萄酒，同时尊重并的理念是创造出能捕 Tiki 中，其中就包括以毛利人的指导原则则以创始人的曾曾祖父为名，他们对永续的实践 kaitiakitanga 富并受到精心保护的海鲜渔获，其中包括来照顾葡萄树，也就是「替未来世代守护地球」。在包围新西兰的原始水域中，可以找到丰 Cloudy Bay 蛤蜊以及 Sanford 螯虾。家族公司 Cloudy Bay 有滑顺的奶油口感。与爽脆口感，烹饪后会飘散微妙的坚果风味，带面下五米以内的范围，具有温和鲜甜的海洋风味国际永续发展的认可。他们出产的钻石蚬采自海供应各种野生蛤蜊超过三十年，其操作获得 Sanford 贝，以及鲜甜细致、也被称为小龙虾的海蜇虾。符合永续精神的打捞海产包括各种鱼类与绿壳贻应商，对环境保育的承诺是公司业务的核心。其公司是一间已有百年历史的海产供主厨 Jaakko 使用来自 Cloudy Bay 的钻石蚬和 Sanford 传统的毛利保护海洋资源的承诺以及用心。霍建华表示：「从菜展现两种优质食材的原始风味，体现生产商对的海鲜锅，最后再加上鳟鱼子和新鲜莳萝。这道的螯虾，来制作充满海洋活力与鲜味 kaitiakitanga 高指导原则。」以及各种当代生产方式，永续始终是新西兰的最原则，到现在这个年代 PRESENTED BY NZTE “From the traditional Māori kaitiakitanga through to current times and modern methods, sustainability has always been front-of-mind for New Zealand. 从传统的毛利kaitiakitanga原则，到现在这个年代以及各种当代生产方式，永续始终是新西兰的最高指导原则。” Kiwa Whatarau 霍建华 The Māori flag (left) features the spiral-like pattern known as koru, a stylized unfurling silver fern frond that represents new life, growth, and hope for the future. 毛利旗（左）上有被称为koru的螺旋状图案，衍伸自新生的卷曲银蕨，象征着新生命、成长和对未来的希望。 106 | TK | for the earth

From the pristine waters surrounding New Zealand comes a plen tiful and carefully conserved harvest, including Cloudy Bay Clams and Sanford scampi. Family-owned Cloudy Bay Clams has been supplying a variety of wild surf clams for over thirty years, with its practices carrying an international sustainability seal of approval. Its diamond shell variety, harvested from a depth of up to five meters, have a mild, sweet ocean flavor and crisp texture that when cooked develop into a buttery taste with a subtle nutty finish. Sanford, which has been a seafood supplier for over a hundred years, puts environmental commitment at the heart of its business. Its sustainably caught product range includes a wide variety of fish and greenshell mussels, as well as sweet and delicate scampi, also known as langoustine.ChefSorsa uses diamond shell clams from Cloudy Bay Clams and scampi from Sanford to create his vibrant and aromatic seafood hotpot, finished with trout roe and fresh dill. The dish showcases two premium ingredients that exemplify their producers’ dedication to protecting the treasures of the sea. “From the traditional Māori kaitiakitanga through to current times and modern methods,” says Whatarau, “sustainability has always been front-of-mind for New Zealand.”

Seafood Pot, with Tohu Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 海鲜煲配搭2020 Tohu 特雷谷长相思白葡萄酒阿沃

“Sustainability has been on the world agenda for some time now,” she says, “and we have a duty and responsibility to take the lead in helping the bar industry become more mindful in its practices, while ensuring that everyone still has a good time! We all know how much waste is produced by bars, from single-use plastic packaging to empty bottles and fast drinks delivery. So as a company set to be here long term, we’re on a journey together with our partners, from the distribution and brand side to clients and, ultimately, consumers.” To inspire change, Pernod Ricard has developed the Bar World of Tomorrow (BWOT), a program that works with partners to train bar managers, staff, and bartenders to run operations in a better, more sus tainable and responsible way. It covers topics ranging from the use of fresh ingredients to responsible ser vice of alcohol to waste management. The program is designed as a slide deck of shareable content with

几乎都可以见到下列品牌的踪影：芝华士（令人赞叹的世界级品牌而闻名，全球各地的酒吧作为国际饮料贸易巨头，保乐力加以旗下一系列 Chivas Regal）、格兰威特（The Glenlivet）、哈瓦纳俱乐部（Havana Club）、巴黎之花（Perrier-Jouët）、玛姆香槟（GH Mumm）及绝对伏特加（Absolut Vodka如此崇高的地位让保乐力加更具社会责任）。感。2019 年，保乐力加推出 2030 酒制作环节以及工作环境中引入更多永续操作。环供应链、减少浪费，并与调酒师合作，在鸡尾轴。保乐力加的目标是让饮品分销的过程成为闭动方案，并以「好时光，好风光」概念为设计主企业社责任行保乐力加集团永续发展与企业社会责任副总裁 Hermance De La Bastide 世界（后到消费者，大家一起踏上永续之旅。」们与合作伙伴联手，从分销、品牌方、客户，最圾。所以，作为一间期望能永久营运的公司，我次性塑料包装、空瓶到饮料配送，都产生很多垃时光！我们都知道酒吧产业制造大量废弃物，一中更谨慎仔细，同时确保每位宾客能享有美好的责任与义务协助酒吧产业在营运过程全球思潮中已存在一段时间，我们有和理性欢聚。她表示：「永续发展在包括滋养风土、以人为本、循环再生强调集团的核心领域，其中为了带动改变，保乐力加推出「未来酒吧 The Bar World of Tomorrow 让调酒师能够将培训内容实践在日常营运中。容被制作成可分享的简报，重点在于同侪学习，负责任的服务和废弃物管理等创新举措。培训内任的方式来经营酒吧，并涵盖从新鲜原材料使用、合作伙伴协力培训员工及调酒师以更永续、负责）」课程，与 BWOT 于 2019 形式进行，身在全球各地的调酒师都可以参与。年推出之际，是以线上培训 2021 乐力加现正积极将港城保乐力加地区总部举办为期一天的课程。保年，培训课程改为现场授课，并在香港海 BWOT 培圳扩展至亚洲其他地区。 ALEX ALEXFUNDAMENTALCOCKTAIL:SUSTAINABLEKO’SKO的永续鸡尾酒： FUNDAMENTAL Fundamental is an exotic blend of Pernod Ricard Havana Club 3 years old rum, clarified fresh pineapple juice, ginger, “rescued rice” sikhye, and eggshell shrub. Sikhye is a traditional Korean beverage made, in this case, from leftover rice. Eggshell shrub is made by dissolving the normally discarded shells in vinegar, which converts the calcium carbonate into calcium hydroxide and calcium acetate to give a clean, linear taste of minerality to the cocktail. Pulp from the squeezed pineapple is used as garnish. Fundamental 会点缀在鸡尾酒上作为装饰。物风味。挤压过后的凤梨果肉为鸡尾酒增添纯净明确的矿钙，从而制成蛋壳醋液，它能钙会转换为氢氧化钙和醋酸的蛋壳泡在醋里，当中的碳酸以剩饭制成。将通常会被丢弃甜米露是一种传统韩国饮品，酒。是一款充满异国情调的鸡尾米露以及蛋壳醋液调制而成，澄清的新鲜凤梨汁、生姜、甜瓦纳俱乐部三年陈酿兰姆酒、是由保乐力加哈 108 | TK | for the earth

PRESENTED BY PERNOD RICARD BY LUCY JENKINS• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

eco-bars 「酒」向永续

AS A GIANT in the international drinks trade, Pernod Ricard is known for its impressive array of worldclass brands found in nearly every bar across the globe: Chivas Regal, The Glenlivet, Havana Club, Perrier-Jouët, GH Mumm, Absolut Vodka. With such status comes a sense of responsi bility, and in 2019, Pernod Ricard launched its 2030 Sustainability and Responsibility (S&R) roadmap designed around the concept of “Good Times from a Good Place.” Pernod Ricard’s goals are to close the loop in drinks distribution, limit wastage, and work with bartenders to introduce more sustainable prac tices in cocktail making and the working environment. Vice President of Corporate Affairs and Sustainability & Responsibility of Pernod Ricard Asia Hermance De La Bastide emphasizes the company’s value chain, one that encompasses nurturing terroir, valuing people, using resources with respect, and hosting responsibly.

Pernod Ricard is set to change the way bars work toward the goal of sustainability.

Alex Ko, Beverage Development Manager of Tastings Group Tastings Group餐饮发展部经理Alex Ko

(4)RICARDPERNODOFCOURTESY

a focus on peer-to-peer learning that brings the training to life for BWOTbartenders.waslaunched initially in 2019 by the group as an online e-learning, accessible globally to all bartenders. It was later adapted as a face-to-face workshop in 2021 in Hong Kong and is structured as a one-day session at Pernod Ricard Regional Headquarters in Harbour City. The company is currently expanding it to other parts of Asia.

Beverage Development Manager Alex Ko is with award-winning Tastings Group, cofounded by Antonio Lai and encompassing VEA, WING, The Envoy, Quinary, Room 309, Draft Land, and CHAKO. He along with other bar managers completed the training last year and hopes that more venues will follow suit. “Sustainability can’t be a one-man effort,” he says. “It takes a whole team as well as industry participation. It was great to see how far along other bar businesses are in their initiatives and to share ideas and what we’re doing at Tastings Group. We were one of the first bars in Hong Kong to use biodegradable straws and to distill and ferment many of our ingredients.”

Hermance De La Bastide

The BWOT program is structured as a oneday, face-to-face workshop. 为期一天的BWOT课程以现场授课的形式举行。

Pernod Ricard has sought the expertise of Heidi Spurrell, CEO of Food Made Good Hong Kong, a consul tancy dedicated to making every meal and drink served as sustainable as possible. Its membership program supports hotels, bars, and restaurants in achieving this through an array of assessments, campaigns, and awards (see page 114 for the full interview).Todate, Spurrell and her team have trained more than ninety bar tenders from some of Hong Kong’s leading bars, including Zuma, Coa, Tell Camellia, and Penicillin. “Bartenders are the res taurant and bar-space leaders,” says Spurrell, “and we’ve seen them employing some new techniques to reduce waste, like freezing avo cado pits to use as ice, or freezing lemons and limes and creating ferments to prolong the quality of fresh ingredients.”

| TK | 111

PRESENTED BY PERNOD RICARD

Pernod Ricard also has plans to partner with eco SPIRITS , a tech startup focusing on closed-loop drinks for the earth

PRESENTED BY PERNOD RICARD 保乐力加也向香港 Food Made Good 行政总裁 Heidi Spurrell 及餐厅落实永续目标（完整采访请见评估、宣传活动及奖励计划，来鼓励酒店、酒吧更符合永续概念，并透过会员制计划和一系列的问公司致力于让餐饮业者提供的每道餐点或饮料寻求相关专业知识。这家顾 114 页）。至今，Heidi 的九十多位调酒师提供培训，其中包括和团队已为香港多家知名酒吧 Zuma、 Coa、Tell Camellia 和 Penicillin 等酒吧。Heidi 制作发酵剂来延长新鲜食材的效期。」牛油果核来充当冰块，以及冷冻柠檬和青柠，并们已经会运用一些新技术来减少浪费，例如冷冻表示：「调酒师是餐厅与酒吧空间的领导者，他 Alex Ko 在 Tastings Group 担任餐饮发展部经理，该集团由 Antonio Lai 共同创办，旗下包括 VEA、永、The Envoy、Quinary、Room 309 和 Draft Land 罐装鸡尾酒品牌等餐厅及酒吧，以及近期创立的 CHAKO 完成，需要整个团队和产业的投入。很开心看到们的脚步。他指出：「永续发展不可能靠一个人年完成培训，并希望有更多的酒吧能够追随他。他和其他酒吧经理去 Tastings Group 科技新创公司对许多原料进行蒸馏和发酵。」最早使用可生物分解吸管的其中一间酒吧，也针动中有所斩获、分享彼此的想法。我们是全香港的具体行动，以及其他酒吧在行保乐力加还计划与实行闭环供应链分销的 ecoSPIRITS 纳牌的烈酒出口到附近的一座小型工厂，装进可容合作，将部分合作品 4.5 公升液体的容器 ecoTOTE 必富达琴酒（这个容器来承装哈瓦纳俱乐部、绝对伏特加以及酒瓶运送到酒吧的传统做法。保乐力加将会试用，取代将一次性 Beefeater），之后预计会有更多品牌使用这个方法。在香港文华东方酒店，饮品经理 Devender Sehgal 将负责监督采用 ecoSPIRITS 的各项策略。他说：「有了 ecoSPIRITS 不仅节省仓储空间、减少成本以及碳足迹，，大家都会是赢家。这 The Aubrey 客体验，同时降低他们的消费成本。」也将能采用优质的季节性食材来提升宾 Hermance 表示：「Tastings Group 外，我们也必须采取行动。我们与东方正替这个产业开拓新方向。除了企业对谈之与文华 Food Made Good、ecoSPIRITS 景－于侪成为永续发展大使，就代表我们距离心中的愿我们的培训人员才是策略核心。他们每次邀请同系，能让大家一起茁壮成长。」她补充：「不过，和内外部合作伙伴的结盟关 2030 年在全球培训一万名调酒师，又更近一步。」 distribution. Instead of shipping single-use bottles directly to bars, Pernod Ricard in the future will export some of its spirits in bulk to a nearby micro-plant, where they will be transferred into 4.5-liter ecoTOTE containers. Havana Club, Absolut, and Beefeater are in line for trial, with more brands expected to follow.

According to De La Bastide, “Tastings Group and Mandarin Oriental are paving the way for the industry. Beyond the corporate talk, we have an imperative to act, and we thrive on our alliances with Food Made Good, eco SPIRITS, and our internal and external partners.

“But it’s our training cohorts who are at the heart of what we do, and each time they invite their peers to be sustainability ambassadors means we’re one step closer to realizing our vision of training ten thousand bartend ers around the world by 2030.” Devender Sehgal, Beverage Manager of Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 香港文华东方酒店饮品经理 Devender Sehgal

112 | TK for the earth

At Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, Beverage Manager Devender Sehgal is set to oversee the initiative to adopt ecoSPIRITS. “Everyone wins with eco SPIRITS ,” he says. “It will save on storage and reduce both costs and our carbon footprint. It also means we’ll be able to elevate our customers’ experience by enhancing The Aubrey’s cocktails with premium or seasonal ingredients while still keeping prices down for them.”

DEVENDER SEHGAL’S SUSTAINABLE COCKTAIL: 20TH CENTURY DEVENDER SEHGAL 的永续鸡尾酒： 20TH CENTURY Sehgal’s own twist on the classic 20th Century replaces lemon juice with citric acid solution while retaining the traditional ingredients of Beefeater gin, white crème de cacao, and Lillet Blanc, a light and floral aperitif. In another departure from standard practice, The Aubrey’s 20th Century is stirred rather than shaken. “The idea,” notes Sehgal, “was to give the look and feel of a classic martini but a softer, more refreshing version of it. So for garnish, we use a wakamomo baby peach that resembles an olive.” Devender 以经典的 20th Century 的是，在花香的开胃酒）等传统原料。另一个与传统做法不同富达琴酒、白色可可酒和丽叶开胃酒（一种带有轻盈个人创意，采用柠檬酸溶液取代柠檬汁，同时保留必鸡尾酒为灵感，加入 The Aubrey 调配的 20th Century 是搅拌而成，而不是透过摇晃来混匀。Devender 但在风味上更温和清爽。在装饰上，我们使用了近似是为了让鸡尾酒呈现经典马丁尼调酒的外观和质感，表示：「这个做法于橄榄的 wakamomo 小桃子作点缀。」

Food Made Good Hong Kong is dedicated to making every restaurant meal as sustainable as possible. cutting the waste 餐饮减废 Heidi Spurrell

“HAVING TRAVELED AND LIVED in different places – Hong Kong, America, Brussels, Amsterdam – I have developed a keen sense of what food is – and should be,” says Heidi Spurrell, CEO of Food Made Good Hong Kong. “I found what was labeled organic in one country, for example, wasn’t necessarily applicable to the next. But gradually I got to know organizations that were dedicated to healthy food consumption and sustainable practices while still pre serving profits for the restaurants.”

The organization is currently working with several leading local food and beverage venues to reduce overall waste, redesign menus, and instill sustainable practices in food preparation. Another recently launched project, One Planet Plate presented by HSBC, enlists more than six thousand restaurants globally to put sustainable dishes on their Aftermenus.earning her master’s degree in food policy and moving back to the city, Spurrell founded Food Made Good Hong Kong in 2019 as a chapter of the UK’s Sustainable Restaurant Association global initiative. Food Made Good’s membership program is designed to support restaurants in achieving maximum possible sustainability in every meal they serve through a range of assessments, cam paigns, and awards. “The food we eat accounts for 25 percent of all greenhouse gas emissions,” notes Spurrell, “so where we choose to eat out matters. But bringing about change can be a slow process. You have to start with small steps rather than trying to change the world all at once.” 香港 Food Made Good 行政总裁 Heidi Spurrell 利。」理食物消耗的组织，而同时还能让餐厅继续获我逐渐认识一些致力于推动永续运营、妥善处的产品，在他国不一定符合有机标准。不过，食物。比如说，我发现在某国被贴上有机标签锐的意识，知道什么是食物，以及什么应该是丹等国家及地区旅游、生活过后，我有了更敏表示：「在美国、香港、布鲁塞尔、阿姆斯特香港有数以万计的餐饮业者，而香港餐饮业跟其他产业一样，营收与利润都因为过去几年的疫情与相关禁令大受打击。现在，在这座长期使用一次性塑胶制品与滥用资源的城市中，提倡食物永续的精神可谓是餐饮业者迎来的、一个令人雀跃的新挑战。香港

Food Made Good 推出的项目是由汇丰银行呈献的在备料过程中提倡更永续的操作。另一个最近合作，以期减少食物浪费，重新设计菜单，并挑战并采取行动。他们正与当地知名餐饮业者重的顾问公司，协助餐饮与零售业者面对未来是一家以食物为 One Planet Plate 永续料理，参与这项活动。，全球超过六千家食肆透过在菜单中添加取得食品政策硕士并搬回香港后， Heidi 在 2019 年创立香港 Food Made Good，成为英国可持续餐馆协会的一个分会。Food Made Good 的餐点。奖励计划，协助餐厅提供尽可能符合永续概念的会员计划透过一系列的评估、活动与 Heidi 夕之间改变世界。」们应一步一步地持续向前迈进，而非试图在一非常重要。不过，改变是一段缓慢的过程，我体排放的百分之二十五，所以挑选吃饭的地点指出：「我们吃的食物占所有温室气 for the earth | TK | 115

Hong Kong’s tens of thousands of dining establishments, as part of an industry whose profits have been pummeled over the last few years by extended closures and restrictions on numbers of patrons, are now finding a welcome new challenge in pursuing the positive goal of food sustain ability in a city where single-use plastic and prodigal misuse of resources have long been the norm. “Food Made Good Hong Kong is a consultancy with a focus on food that supports the F&B and retail sectors in anticipating and taking action on future challenges,” says Spurrell.

BY LUCY JENKINS•

MOVERS & SHAKERS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

Adopting the Afrikaans word for “something small and precious” as its name, Kleinood winery in Stellenbosch, South Africa, invests heavily in the local community to create its elegant handmade wines. Owner Gerard de Villiers recently responded to TK’s questions about the family-run operation’s “maximum hands per bottle” approach. § 位于南非斯泰伦博斯的 Kleinood 酒庄积极与当地居民合作，致力于制作精酿手工葡萄酒，呼应酒庄名称「小而珍贵」的意涵。在与TK的访谈中，主理这个家族经营酒庄的 Gerard de Villiers 分享了他们花重本在人工上的经营哲学。 many hands 巧手佳酿

PRESENTED BY KLEINOOD

When we bought the farm in 2000, we inherited some staff and employed many more. Some came from squatter camps or locations that were not convenient for the farm. It was expensive for these work ers to get here, and we couldn’t collect them as they were too far away, so we needed a solution. We purchased four plots of land in a village called Jamestown, where most of our staff live. It’s a beautiful village close to the valley where our property is. Their kids can attend the local primary and secondary schools. We then built three-bedroom houses on each of the plots. The houses are near the church, schools, and clinic, and this village is so close to us. This proximity means we can collect our employees in the morning and drop them off after work.

How many people do you employ?

What have been the positive effects of the housing project?

Around twenty-one, which is a large number for a small place like ours. Official figures put South Africa’s unemployment rate at around 36 percent. Our approach is that we’d like to create employment. This is different to other wineries, as they move towards mechanization and avoiding employing many people. Our property helps to feed twenty-one families.

How does Kleinood support its employees?

酒庄一共雇用了多少人？约为来说已经算很多了。在南非，官方统计的失业率大概二十一人，这个数目以我们这种小地方 36% 二十一个家庭得以温饱。了减少人工成本而改为机械化生产，我们则让一点和其他酒庄非常不一样。大部分的酒庄都为。我们希望可以创造更多就业机会，这 Kleinood 为员工提供什么福利？我们在 2000 上下班。学校、诊所，离农场也很近，方便我们接送员工在四幅地上都盖了三房的员工宿舍，附近有教堂、当地还有小学及中学可供员工的小孩就读。我们一个美丽的农村，位于我们农场所在的山谷附近，了四幅地，大多数员工都住在那里。詹姆斯镇是可能去接他们来上班。为此，我们在詹姆斯镇买花上不少交通费，但碍于距离限制，我们也不太来说，要来这边上班没有那么方便。他们可能要原有的员工，也新雇用了一些人员。对某些员工年的时候买下这个农场，除了你为员工设立宿舍，有带来什么好处吗？父母可以帮忙带小孩助的社区体系。在社区里，父母外出工作时，祖如果居住的地方不固定，就很难形成一个互这种「互助」的文化必须RIGHT)(6KLEINOODOFCOURTESY(LEFT),HAMMONSMARK for the earth | TK | 117

Informal settlements can be in flux, and that makes it difficult to build a stable community. In more settled areas, parents work and grandparents keep an eye on the kids – there is a culture of mutual

support which falls away when a settlement keeps chang ing. Putting a roof over people’s heads absolutely gives them shelter, but it’s so much more than that – it gives them a home, a community, and a support network.

On our side, we get involved with the local primary school, and we have just built an arts and culture hall, a space where the community can gather to take part in art and music workshops or sing in the choir. The local university has gotten involved too, so we have students running adult education classes and music lessons.

Whatever needs doing in the vineyard – pruning, etc., is all done by hand. Grapes are handpicked and hand-sorted. Labels are put on the bottles by hand. Each worker becomes a specialist in their field. This all takes a lot longer, as we can only process one to one and a half tons of grapes per hour. In comparison, the slowest machines on the market might process four or five tons. However, we have a “maximum hands per bottle” philosophy. From vineyard to glass, our product is checked and re-checked by various specialists. Does your approach have an effect on the quality and flavor of your wines compared to those produced using more machinery? I design wineries for a living – I’m an engineer, so I know all about machines. There is no doubt you can tell the difference. In my opinion, the entire experience of

What tasks do your employees undertake?

作，提供各式成人课程及音乐课程。或是参加合唱团。我们也有和大学合那里举办艺术、音乐相关的工作坊，盖了一座新的艺文中心，大家可以在以及互助的力量。雨，更是给予他们一个家、一個社群一个安居的环境，不只让他们遮风避建立在固定的社区体系之上。给大家我们也与本地学校合作，最近还您的员工平常的工作内容都有些什么？「专家」。虽然相较于机器每小时可以工完成的。每位工人都是自己工作的萄、选葡萄、贴酒瓶标签等，都是手枝等等，都是以人力完成。举凡摘葡庄园內所有的工作，像修剪树处理最少四到五吨的葡萄，人工更费时，每小时产出也只有一至一吨半的葡萄，不过这就是我们愿意侧重在人工上的经营哲学。从原料到装瓶，过程都经各位「专家」谨慎仔细地操作。这样的做法对葡萄酒的品质和风味有何影响？和机器产的葡萄酒有何差别？生，所以我很了解机器。当然，两者我是工程师，我靠设计酿酒厂维 PRESENTED BY KLEINOOD (6)KLEINOODOFCOURTESYRIGHT),(TOPHAMMONSMARK 118 | TK for the earth

Kleinood’s “maximum hands per bottle” approach to winemaking takes much longer than using machinery. In the vineyard, everything is done by hand, and in the winery, grapes are hand-sorted to make sure they’re not bruised or damaged. This approach not only produces beautiful, artisanal wines but also provides employment for twenty-one workers. Kleinood 除了生产出一瓶瓶珍贵佳酿，也为确保葡萄的完整性。这个经营哲学手处理，而酿酒过程使用人手，能要更长时间。酒庄内的一切都以人法，使酿酒过程与机制的相比，需酒庄着重手工制程的做二十一位员工提供了就业机会。 FOR THE EARTH TK | 119

Tamboerskloof Syrah 2017 is a graceful wine with a complex flavor profile that makes it wonderfully versatile and easy to pair with many meat dishes. Fine tannins and delicate notes of violet flower, cherry, and spice make this beautifully balanced red a perfect partner for duck. Tamboerskloof Syrah 2017 红葡萄酒成为鸭肉料理的绝佳搭档。和香料的微妙香气，使这款平衡优美的美配搭。精致的单宁和紫罗兰花、樱桃风味，优雅无比，能与许多肉类佳肴完有着复杂的 120 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

为温顺。处理葡萄可以避免葡萄酒走味，酒尝起来也更宁成份高的酒，因此需要更多时间熟成。小心增添风味的；不过大部分的时候，成品都是单宁的成分会变高。如果拿捏适当，单宁是可以果使用机器，果皮会在发酵前就裂开，酒中单发酵，当葡萄发酵完成，果皮会自然裂开。如实在发酵前可以保持完整。葡萄会从果肉开始萄送入蒸馏塔，而不是使用机器泵，以确保果验比饮用机制的更有意义。我们依靠重力把葡的差异显著。在我看来，享受手工葡萄酒的体请为我们介绍一支 Kleinood 的好酒。我们的 Tamboerskloof Syrah 2017 使用了 95% 的西拉葡萄、4% 慕合怀特葡萄，以及 1% 酵十八个月，酒体色泽如红宝石般透亮清澈。前更经过三次严格拣选，并于法国橡木桶发维欧尼葡萄，全为手工摘采，在发酵 Tamboerskloof Syrah 重视，才能造就这瓶充满细节的上选佳酿。风味。精细工法独有的肉桂、紫罗兰、樱桃和黑胡椒会有的口感。香气上，您可以尝到产地风土和到好处的单宁风味，是仔细手工酿造的好酒才有熟成红酒才有的巧克力风味。酒的中调有恰虽为较年轻的酒，却带拥有精细酿酒手工制程以及对酒庄本身的 “In my opinion, the entire experience of enjoying a handcrafted wine is just so much more rewarding than drinking something made by machines. 在我看来，享受手工葡萄酒的体验比饮用机制的更有意义。” Gerard de Villiers PRESENTED BY KLEINOOD For more information go to www.kleinood.com or contact office@kleinood.com(2)KLEINOODOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 121

Can you give an example?

enjoying a handcrafted wine is just so much more rewarding than drink ing something made by machines. For example, we use gravity rather than a pump to drop the grapes into a satellite tank. This means the grapes are whole before fermentation starts. Fermentation happens inside the grape, and as the grapes ferment, this process pops the skins open. In contrast, when you move the grapes by machine, their skins get broken before fermentation starts. This results in extracting tannins. Tannins can be a positive thing, if well balanced, but nine times out of ten they result in a harsh wine that will take a long time to mature. Gentler crushing avoids the unattractive tastes that result if you work more harshly. These artisanal methods result in softer, more elegant wines

Our Tamboerskloof Syrah 2017 is made from 95 percent syrah, 4 percent mourvèdre and 1 percent viognier grapes, all of which are hand picked and hand-sorted three times before being transported without pumps into fermentation vessels. It then spends eighteen months in French oak. This results in a pure, clear, ruby-red wine. Tamboerskloof Syrah is youthful, but it also has a chocolate note that recognizes its mat uration. There is a fine tannin in the mid-palate that’s there as a result of careful handling during the winemaking process. Aromas of cinnamon, violet, cherry, and black pepper reflect the lovingly tended terroir and the work done in the Tamboerskloofvineyard.Syrah is a really elegant wine and that’s thanks to dedicated handiwork in the vineyard combined with respect and handson attention in the winery.

Rita Cheung 张立慧 122 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

仙岛酒意 telling the story A couple’s chance visit to Shandong province transforms their lives and begins an ongoing adventure in winemaking. PRESENTED BY MYSTIC ISLAND WINERY

That same year, Domaine de Long Dai, developed by Domaines Barons de Rothschild, also moved in to produce its Chinese red blend, dramatically raising the profile of the

WHEN RITA CHEUNG took her first sip of a Bordeaux with her father at the age of nineteen, she never imagined that she and her future husband, KC, would one day end up owning Mystic Island Winery, nestled in the Qiu Shan Valley in Penglai, Shandong province. “It was just fate,” she says. “ KC was brought over to Yantai on business in 2008 and we saw the beautiful countryside and fell in love with it.” Her children, Yining and Yien, were ages seven and eight at the time, and the Hong Kong couple was keen on having a place away from Shanghai where they could experience nature. “We originally wanted to build a holiday home there for our young family to visit. After years of living in cities around Asia and Europe and the States, we just wanted a more peaceful existence. Now, in some ways, I treat the vines as another child,” she laughs, “caring for them and teaching them perseverance against challenges.” When the opportunity to invest in building a winery was facilitated by the Chinese government, which saw the huge potential in the Penglai terroir, Rita and KC decided to go for it. “There was already a winery there, and they and a few other Yantai wineries helped us out so much at the beginning. We’re still grateful to them for lending us their skills and knowledge, and we’re friends to this day.”

张立慧（Rita 多葡萄酒，当时她从未想过自己和未来的丈夫）十九岁时在父亲相伴下，喝下第一口波尔 KC 是命中注定。位于山东省蓬莱丘山的仙岛酒庄的庄主。她说：「这完全会成为 2008 年，KC 人偶尔可以换换环境。在亚洲、欧洲和美国各地的城市情体验大自然。「我们一开始是想盖一个度假屋，让一家港夫妇希望能有一个远离上海居住地的地方，让孩子尽的乡村景致深深打动了我们，让我们爱上这片土地。」因公到烟台出差，当地动人她的孩子逸宁跟逸恩当时只有七岁跟八岁，这对香生活多年后，我们只想过更平静的生活。现在，某种程度来说，我已经把葡萄树当成自己的小孩了。」她笑着说：「我照顾这些葡萄，教它们以坚忍不拔的精神面对挑战。」中国政府看见蓬莱风土的无穷潜力，提供投资建设葡萄酒庄的机会， Rita 跟 KC 势。这有助于让葡萄降温、平衡酸度，让葡萄不至过熟。郡相当类似，凉爽的海风与昼夜的巨大温差是其气候优位于相同纬度的地区，已经获得「中国波尔多」的美誉。果更是当地的知名作物。如今，这个与波尔多和纳帕郡以及肥沃的土壤，让蓬莱成为农业与水果种植名区，苹萄酒生产地区的地位。新鲜的空气、高低起伏的山丘，驻，开始生产中国混酿红葡萄酒，大幅提高丘山作为葡授，我们依然对此心怀感激。直到现在，我们还是好朋友。」他们一开始就提供很多协助，将各种技术与知识倾囊相放手去发展。「那里本来就有一些烟台的酒庄，决定拉菲罗斯柴尔德集团经营的珑岱酒庄也在同年进作为一个沿海葡萄酒产区，蓬莱某种程度上与纳帕 BY LUCY JENKINS• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN Rita Cheung 张立慧 124 | TK | for the earth

PRESENTED BY MYSTIC ISLAND WINERY

2019 Yihu Chardonnay Dry White Wine and 2020 Yihu Rosé Wine 2019逸湖霞多丽干白葡萄酒及2020逸湖桃红葡萄酒

2019 Yihu Chardonnay Reserve Dry White Wine and 2019 Yihu Petit Verdot Reserve Dry Red Wine 2019逸湖霞多丽高级干白葡萄酒及2019逸湖小味儿多高级干红葡萄酒 “How lucky is it to have a winery that produces good wine to enjoy and at the same time gives back to the very environment and people who enabled us to build our dream? 我很庆幸有一个能生产好酒供人享用的酒庄，同时还能回馈协助我们实现梦想的环境与民众。” Rita Cheung 126 | TK | for the earth

Qiu Shan Valley as a wine region. Its fresh air, rolling hills, and fertile soil had made Penglai famous for its agriculture and fruit growing, particularly of apples, but now the district, which is on the same latitude as both Bordeaux and the Napa Valley, is becoming known as the Bordeaux of China. As one of the world’s coastal wine regions, Penglai, in a way similar to the Napa Valley, benefits from cooling sea breezes and a wide temperature differential between day and night, which helps cool the grapes, balance out acidity levels, and guard against overripeness.Outoflove and respect for the terroir, Rita runs the winery with an emphasis on sustainable practices by reducing the use of chemicals, employing natural fertilizers and covering crops, recording weather patterns to inform later harvests, and maximizing use of sunlight to lower electricity consumption. The facility is also gravity-fed, which means that the wines are processed with minimal use of pumps, thereby reducing both damages to the grapes and reliance on energy-consuming machines.Ritaand KC have developed the vineyard from scratch. Through their contacts, they assembled a team made up of local farm ers and international viticultural experts and winemakers from New Zealand and Canada, who helped in choosing the land and growing the vines and also consulted on the winery’s design. “Building a wine district will provide stable jobs for local farmers and create new ones for young people,” says Rita. “I also believe in bringing in international talent to promote cultural and knowledge exchanges. How lucky is it to have a winery that pro duces good wine to enjoy and at the same time gives back to the very environment and people who enabled us to build our dream?” Across its 172 terraced plots, Mystic Island grows all of the principal Bordeaux

| TK | 127

PRESENTED BY MYSTIC ISLAND WINERY 出于对当地风土的热爱与尊重，Rita 到最低，亦大幅减少使用耗能机器。工过程中尽少使用水泵，将对葡萄的损害减酒庄使用重力供料系统，这代表在葡萄酒加考，还尽可能运用太阳能来减少电力消耗。作物、透过纪录天气模式作为未来收成的参少化学品的使用、采用天然肥料、种植覆盖的经营方针强调永续环保。仙岛酒庄不仅减 Rita 与 KC 计。来协助选择土地、种植葡萄，以及酒庄的设与加拿大的葡萄栽培专家和酿酒师，由他们队，其中除了有当地农民，还有来自纽西兰他们透过人脉联络，组成一支相当多元的团从零开始打造这座葡萄园。 Rita 第白葡萄品种霞多丽。酒庄的首次出品是珠、品丽珠、梅洛和小味儿多，以及勃艮植了所有主要的波尔多葡萄品种，包括赤霞馈协助我们实现梦想的环境与民众。」个能生产好酒供人享用的酒庄，同时还能回进一步促进文化与知识交流。我很庆幸有一新的工作机会。我也相信引进外国人才，能地农民提供稳定的工作，也能替年轻人创造表示：「开发葡萄酒特区，能为当在一百七十二块梯田上，仙岛酒庄种 2018 的小味儿多红酒于赤霞珠和小味儿多的逸湖干红葡萄酒。仙岛由品丽珠主导的波尔多混酿，同时还有梅洛、年份的逸湖霞多丽干白葡萄酒，以及 2020 萄酒，不同于一般只作为混酿酒的其中一员。萄的品质优良，所以用来酿造单一品种的葡年首次亮相，因葡原生酵母霞多丽葡萄酒亦在同年推出，天然发酵在中国的酿酒业中相当罕见，因其酿酒条件严苟，必须仰赖天气与葡萄的品质。 Rita 自然及环境的原始风貌。」现丘山山谷的独特风土、土壤结构、天气、最大限度地减少人工干预，让葡萄酒得以展说：「简约见精华。我们在酿造过程中 2021 年的采收报告成绩亮眼。Rita 表示：「2021 一些舒适宜人的晴天。年非常美好，降雨量不多，也有 2021 年的逸湖葡萄只是在讲述葡萄园的故事而已。」当地民众、文化与环境的特色和优势，我们战与成功经验中学习。我们的目标是突显出酒绝对值得期待。」「每年我们都会探索新的事物，并从挑 2018 Yihu Chardonnay Dry White Wine and 2018 Yihu Dry Red Wine 2018 白葡萄酒及逸湖霞多丽干 2018 逸湖干红葡萄酒 red varietals, including cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot, as well as the Burgundy white varietal chardonnay. The 2018 vintage was the first for the winery’s Yihu Chardonnay as well as for Yihu Dry Red, which is a Bordeaux blend driven by cabernet franc and also con taining merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot. Mystic Island Petit Verdot Reserve, first released in 2020, goes beyond the grape’s usual role in making up red blends – because it carries itself so well in the district, the wine was produced as a single varietal.

The 2021 vintage is already looking especially fine. “We had a great year,” she notes, “not too much rain and some lovely sunny days. Our 2021 Yihu is definitely something to look forward to.

Mystic Island’s wild-yeast Yihu Chardonnay Reserve was also released that same year. Natural fermentation is a rare practice in Chinese wine making, and getting the conditions right is largely dependent on weather and grape quality. “Less is more,” says Rita. “We grow and make our wines with minimal intervention, allowing them to express the unique natural environment of Qiu Shan Valley, its terroir, soil, and weather.”

“Each year we discover something new and learn from our challenges and our triumphs. We aim to bring out the best in our people, the culture, and the environment – we’re simply telling the story of our vineyard.” for earth

the

Executive Chinese Chef Jayson Tang of Man Ho Chinese Restaurant at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong is enthusiastically devoted to the second view. Seeing fusion cooking as the wave of the future, he adopts an approach “based on the inherent flavors of ingredients, one where two or more cooking techniques, such as steaming and baking, might be used in a single dish.” To achieve such results, contemporary Chinese kitchens like Tang’s necessarily have stringent demands regarding kitchen equipment, and prestige brands like Sub-Zero and Wolf have become the favorites of leading chefs around the world. With the latest technology unleashing his creative vision, Tang emphasizes what to him remains paramount: “You can make all the modern changes you want, but the flavors must always remain true.” A good example of this thinking is one of his newest dishes, Poached Fish Maw Roll Stuffed with Grouper Fillet in White Pepper and Chicken Broth. Taking its cue from some of Cantonese cuisine’s classic elements, includ ing pork caul fat, Chaozhou pepper pork belly soup, and Guangdong dim sum chicken rolls, Tang’s specialty captures the essence of a popular dim sum, chicken rolls wrapped in bean curd. But instead of chicken, the filling is giant grouper, fish belly, and fish maw, all delicately wrapped in pork caul fat to achieve a sumptuously refined flavor and mouthfeel. Despite its simple appearance, the dish is a temperamental one, according to the chef. The components, “each of which has its own unique texture,” must be expertly balanced. Tang is quite strict in sourcing his ingredients, insisting on caul fat from France, conpoy and fish maw from 香港 Sub-Zero 及 Wolf 备式的稳定度，因为这是餐饮追求卓越的评断标科技，让养鱼有媲美野生货色的美味。趸于室内绿色养饲鱼场，如何利用室内循环水他数年前曾到渔场考察，亲眼见过这款花尾龙流浮山养饲、符合永续发展的「绿洲龙趸」。国的猪网油，大澳的元贝肉、花胶，以及元朗二的质感。」因此他对选材非常严谨，只用法的菜式。邓师傅说：「每道食材都形塑独一无得上是广东人相认的暗码。在嘴里的质感既爽又棉，那独特的味道回忆说网油作「皮」，包卷馅料，做工细腻讲究，吃奇，用龙趸鱼肉、鱼肚、花胶作「馅」、用猪心鸡扎。其中，看像鸡札的「鱼卷」最叫人惊味道：猪网油、潮州胡椒猪肚汤、怀旧广东点他的思维辩白。这道菜细藏他心中的经典粤菜怎么变，最重要的是味道不能变。」受推崇。不过邓师傅同时强调：「不论他的新菜「网油鲜鱼卷」仿为这道菜外表朴素，但却是一道颇费心神现时手握米其林一星的他，非常看重菜 create its and environmentally responsible cuisine, Michelin-starred Man Ho Chinese Restaurant requires kitchen equipment that is state of the art.

PRESENTED BY THE MADISON GROUP

sustainable fusion 顶尖设备永续时代 128 | TK | for the earth

THE FUTURE OF CHINESE CUISINE has become a hot topic in recent years. Some look to resurrect old dishes and focus on the revival and transmission of traditional Chinese recipes. Others envision the cuisine’s exciting creative potential to attract today’s adventurous younger palates.

imaginative

JW 「它是一种『以食材为本』的做法，即是在一信，「复合烹调法」将是中菜的未来，他解释：万豪酒店中餐行政总厨邓家濠师傅相道菜中运用两种或以上的技法，比如先『蒸』后『焗』。」背后无非为进一步突显粤菜「原汁原味」的精髓。除了食材，现代中厨对厨具的要求亦相对提高，继让顶尖厨具品牌

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

BY JOYCE•KWOK

Poached Fish Maw Roll Stuffed with Grouper Fillet in White Pepper and Chicken Broth 网油鲜鱼卷

主厨的理念。目前邓师傅推崇求。」他相信惟有顶尖的厨具才能充分承托定误差范围内的稳定度，其实是很高的要准之一。他指出：「若能把每道菜维持在一 Sub-Zero 「这一点对温度敏感的龙趸、海鲜尤其关的卫生存放」。海鲜、肉类、家禽及鸡蛋，能够由上而下冰箱，因其间隔分明、空间充足，「蔬菜、的邓师傅也赞叹冰箱精确的温度调节：键。」他指出， Sub-Zero 抗菌空气净化系统，结合美国太空总署的冰箱有独有的 NASA 保鲜期，也能减少浪费食物，一举数得。烂的乙烯气体，既延长讲究、高档食材的的霉菌、病毒，甚至能清除让蔬果加速腐科技，可以消除大部份冰箱空气内除了冰箱，一流的 Wolf 究健康，偏爱吃蒸、焗类的粤菜。」人，都是以年长的女性为主；她们吃饭讲让邓师傅事半功倍。他说：「日常光顾的客蒸焗炉也能 Wolf 社会责任。」康』。主厨把菜式做好只是份内事，还要负师傅也正全心投入这个趋势。环保制备方式及设备的关注日渐提高，邓及团体工作更得心应手。同时进行，烹煮时空气流通良好，让主厨的蒸焗炉配备多种功能，烘烤及蒸煮可以现今餐饮业界对使用永续生产食材、「现代中菜，不能只有『好吃』和『健 PRESENTED BY THE MADISON GROUP “ You can make all the modern changes you want, but the flavors must always remain true. 不论怎么变，最重要的是味道不能变。” Chef Jayson Tang ← Sub-Zero’s shelving maximizes efficiency. Sub-Zero 充分利用存收空间。冰箱的间隔分明， 130 | TK | for the earth

Tai O, and sustainably sourced giant grouper from the OASIS indoor fish farm in Lau Fau Shan. There, massive groupers are raised using a special water recirculation technology to ensure that the farmed fish are as flavorful as the wild variety.Thechef’s exacting sourcing requirements are matched by his meticu lous attention to the details of preparation. “To keep a dish consistently to the highest standards is actually very demanding,” he says. And he believes that this level of perfection is possible only with the best equipment avail able. Sub-Zero refrigerators are his choice for their superior features, including ample capacity and well-thought-out shelving systems. “Vegetables, seafood, meat, poultry, and eggs can be stored from top to bottom in the most efficient and orderly way,” says Tang. He also finds that Sub-Zero’s temperature-adjustment controls are extremely precise. “They’re key to the freshness of the grouper, for exam ple, because this fish is very sensitive to variations.” In addition, Sub-Zero refrigerators employ a unique antibacterial air-purification system, based on technology developed by NASA. It scrubs the air clean of mold and bacteria as

Chef Jayson Tang 邓家濠师傅

3. Allow to cool; cut into 1 cm cubes. 4. Deep-fry 6 cubes in oil at 150˚C for 2 minutes until golden brown; set aside.

DECORATION Fried bamboo pith, pea sprouts, edible gold pigment spray FISH MAW ROLL caul fat (8 cm x 25 cm) 55 g grouper fillet (7 cm x 4 cm x 1 cm thick) fish tripe (7 cm x 4 cm x 1 cm thick)fishmaw (7 cm x 4 cm x 0.5 cm thick) 40 g conpoy purée (well-blended local conpoy mixed with Chinese water chestnut)

1. Clean caul fat, lightly salt it, and marinate for at least 10 hours in rosé wine (Mei Kuei Lu Chiew); when ready to use, rinse and cut to specified size.

2. Spread 20 g of conpoy purée evenly on fish tripe, and press grouper fillet onto it; spread fillet with another 20 g of purée and place fish maw on top; wrap the assembly with caul fat to form fish maw roll.

淮山粒去皮淮山 200克盐 10克 1. 打蓉淮山与盐混合，放进搅拌机。 2. 入蒸炉蒸把淮山蓉倒入方盘器皿，放 6分钟。 3. 切割成淮山取出后冷却定形，用刀 1立方厘米的方块。 4. 将6粒淮山方块放入150度的油內炸2分钟至金黄色备用。白胡椒鸡汤浓鸡汤 300克白胡椒粒 10克鲜腐竹 30克盐 5克白糖 5克 1. 汤及鲜腐竹，用细火煮炒香白胡椒粒，加入浓鸡 10分钟。 2. 滑，再用隔筛把杂质隔去。倒入搅拌机打至融合及幼 3 取出200 调味备用。克汤，加盐及白糖装饰装饰炸竹笙网、豆芽苗、食用金色喷油鱼卷法国豬网油（8厘米 X 25厘米）龙趸鱼肉 55克（7厘米 X 4厘米，厚1厘米）鱼肚（7厘米 X 4厘米，厚1厘米）花胶（7厘米 X 4厘米，厚0.5厘米）元贝蓉（本地元贝蓉加马蹄粒） 40克 1. 小量盐，腌制豬网油清洗后加玫瑰露酒及 10 成合适大小。用。使用时清洗腌料并切割小时以上备 2. 将20 上，貼上龙趸魚肉，再涂上克元贝蓉平均涂于鱼肚 20 网油包裹，制成鱼卷。然后贴上花胶件，最后用豬克元贝蓉于龙趸鱼肉上， 3. 把鱼卷放入蒸炉蒸8分钟，再放入预热至280度的焗炉焗4分钟至浅金黄色。 4. 油喷色点缀。在黑色碟子上以食用金色喷 5. 把炸竹笙网放于鱼卷上。山粒及豆芽苗围绕鱼卷，再把鱼卷放置于碟中，以炸淮 6. 用。食用时淋上胡椒鸡汤便可享 PRESENTED BY THE MADISON GROUP 132 | TK | for the earth

WHITE PEPPER CHICKEN BROTH 300 g chicken broth 10 g white pepper 30 g fresh bean curd sheet 5 g salt 5 g white sugar

CHINESE YAM CUBES

1. Sauté white pepper, add chicken broth and fresh bean curd sheet, and cook over low heat for 10 min utes. 2. Pour into a blender, process until smooth, and pour through a sieve.

200 g fresh yam, peeled 10 g salt 1. Purée yam and salt in a blender. 2. Pour purée into a square container and steam for 6 minutes.

3. Steam for 8 minutes, then bake in preheated oven at 280˚C degrees for 4 minutes until lightly golden brown. 4. Spray a black plate with edible gold pigment. 5. Place fish maw roll in center, decorate with the fried Chinese yam cubes and pea sprouts, and top with fried bamboo pith. 6. Drizzle with white pepper chicken broth and serve.

3. Add salt and sugar to 200 g of the broth and set aside.

A second essential for a successful commercial kitchen is a top-notch steam oven, and Tang chooses those from Wolf. “Our daily patrons are largely people who pay close attention to healthy eating,” he says, “and they tend to prefer our steamed and baked Cantonese dishes.” Wolf steam ovens, Tang points out, are equipped with a multitude of advanced functions and offer the option of simultaneous baking and steaming. And they also feature superior venting for a more comfortable working environment.

Chef

Tang prepares his signature Poached Fish Maw Roll Stuffed with Grouper Fillet in White Pepper and Chicken Broth. 邓师傅烹制他的招牌菜式网油鲜鱼卷。 for the earth | TK | 133

Chef Tang has fully committed Man Ho to today’s focus on sustainable ingredients and environmentally friendly preparation methods and equipment. “Modern Chinese cuisine cannot only be about being delicious or healthy,” he says, “and cooking good food is only part of a chef’s job. He also has a responsibility to society.”

well as removing ethene gas, which hastens food ripening and spoiling. This feature prolongs the preservation of deli cate and costly ingredients and helps minimize food waste.

PRESENTED BY ROSEWOOD HONG KONG Giovanni ofExecutiveGaleota,ChefBluHouse 134 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

At BluHouse, Chef Giovanni Galeota brings his fresh, personal touch to authentic Italian cuisine. taste and beauty 意国风华动人协奏

家脱颖而出的，绝对是莫大的成就。但是，在香港这个遍地都是意大利餐厅的城市中，能开设一 BluHouse 富的知名主厨，在香港的意大利美食持续翻新演进之了如此响亮的名声，再加上优质的时令食材与经验丰神致敬的餐厅，位于享负盛名的香港瑰丽酒店内。有并不是典型的意式小餐馆。这家向正宗意大利美食精际， BluHouse 已成功树立了时尚高雅的形象。行政总厨 Giovanni Galeota 曾在澳门著名餐厅当奥丰素 1890 点。如今负责掌舵这个位于尖沙咀的美食新据意式料理任职， BluHouse 包括两种不同风格及概念，其中 BluHouse 提供罗马式薄饼等的休闲餐饮，优雅讲究的 The Dining Room by BluHouse 则带来深入认识意大利高级餐饮的体验。 Giovanni 到雷焦艾米利亚地区的顶级帕马火腿，做出一道菜。」从来自普利亚地区的珍贵布拉塔奶酪，理灵感。史悠久的食谱致敬的菜肴，以及跨越传统与现代的料式：在意大利生产并空运至香港的顶级农产品、向历他设计的丰富菜单中，味觉与美感幻化成各种表现形醒童年记忆。首先是味道，然后是美妙的摆盘。」在表示：「对我来说，烹饪的重点在于唤总厨说：「在意大利人的厨房里，几种食材就能 Giovanni 精心 BY LESLIE •TSIANG PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON J NICOL PRESENTED BY ROSEWOOD HONG KONG 136 | TK | for the earth

IN A CITY REPLETE with Italian restaurants, opening one that truly stands out is quite an accomplishment. But then, BluHouse is far from the typical Hong Kong trattoria. This polished and elegant homage to the spirit of authentic Italian food beckons from within Rosewood Hong Kong, one of the city’s most prestigious addresses. Given such cachet, along with the resources and cel ebrated chef that go with it, BluHouse is poised to put its stylish stamp on the ever-upward evolution of Italian cuisine in Hong Kong. Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Galeota, an alumnus of Macau’s famed Don Alfonso, is in charge at Tsim Sha Tsui’s newest dining destination. A twofold affair, BluHouse offers casual dining as well as an elevated take on modern Italian gastronomy at The Dining Room by BluHouse.“For me,” says Galeota, “cooking is all about evoking child hood memories. First is the taste and then the beauty on the plate.” Throughout his bountiful menu, taste and beauty are manifest in manifold forms: the sensational produce sourced locally and from Italy, the dishes that pay tribute to time-hon ored recipes, the pops of inspiration that straddle tradition and modernity.“Inthe Italian kitchen, a few ingredients make a dish,” says the chef. And from Puglia’s prized burrata to Reggio Emilia’s

The same simple charm suffuses BluHouse’s casual food hall, where marble-topped tables, tiled floors, and counters of blue lava stone evoke cafés along sun-dappled Mediterranean coasts. Encompassing a restaurant, a barista corner, and pasticceria and gelato counters, BluHouse radiates Italy’s convivial energy. The one clue that guests are still in Hong Kong is the panoramic vista of Victoria Harbour that serves as a brilliant backdrop to Galeota’s eye-catching plates. BluHouse casual dining features Roman-style pizza al taglio, served traditionally as square slices, and, of course, fresh Thepasta.chef commands a range of flavors across the casual dining menu that are beloved by those fluent in the regional foods of Italy: zucchini flowers stuffed with smoked provola cheese, Milanese-style veal ossobuco, and stewed tripe in a tangy sauce of San Marzano tomatoes. Galeota also recommends his superlative variation on carbonara: al dente rigatoni are lav ishly glossed with egg yolk, salty guanciale, and freshly grated pecorino Romano. His flavorful local “three-yellow” chicken is

利人惬意优雅的态度。挑选的食材建构成菜单的基础，体现意大 BluHouse 烂的地中海沿岸咖啡厅。以及蓝色火山石柜台，让人联想到阳光灿着简约的魅力。大理石面餐桌、磁砖地板，明亮的用餐空间同样散发 BluHouse 溢欢快的意大利风情。与及琳琅满目的甜点和意大利冰淇淋柜，洋了有用餐空间，还有一个咖啡师吧台，以内除 Giovanni 香港，也能享用到正宗的意国美食。维多利亚港全景，让人想起自己虽仍置身的绝美佳肴相互辉映的，是餐厅外的壮丽打造 Bluhouse 形，別具特色。此外，新鲜的意大利面同样大受欢迎。风格的薄饼，这种薄饼向来都是切成方的地道悠闲风味包括罗马 Giovanni 肚。牛膝；在鲜美的圣马扎诺番茄酱汁中炖制的意式炖牛欢的料理：西葫芦花镶烟熏波罗夫洛奶酪；米兰式炖也带來一系列熟悉意国美食风味的人都会喜 Giovanni 尽致。使这道招牌烧鸡表皮爽脆，鸡肉的风味被推展得淋漓在浓盐水中腌制六个多小时，然后以明火烟熏熟成，以及新鲜现磨的罗马绵羊奶酪。他将本地三黄鸡浸泡牙的管状通心粉，淋上满满的蛋黄、咸香意式培根，还推荐经他改造的卡邦尼意粉，煮到弹 ↖ Chef Giovanni cutting porchetta at the food hall counter 餐厅主厨Giovanni 专柜内将传统烤肉切片在熟食 ↑ ↑ The Dining Room by BluHouse ↑ BluHousefoodhall for the earth | TK | 137

superior Parma ham, Galeota’s impeccably selected ingredients form the building blocks of a menu that embraces the Italian ethos of effortless elegance.

Giovanni 运用他在米其林星级餐厅磨炼出来的技术，为 The Dining Room by BluHouse 鞑靼就令人难以抵抗。精致优雅的意式菜肴，其中的皮埃蒙特乳饲牛肉带来 Giovanni 表示 : 利饺入口时「迸发」出无与伦比的风味。大利饺中，做出自己的风格。」这种做法能让意大哪里，都一定会做热那亚肉酱。我把肉酱包在意「不管我在 BluHouse 酒，也让宾客徜徉在萄酒文化的多样性。一系列经典隽永的意大利烈的酒窖藏酒丰富，体现意大利葡 1980 年代的风华中。 BluHouse 诺。餐厅推动各项计划，包括与守护对可持续发展以及带动正向社会影响力的承秉承「使命商业」的概念，坚定 O Park 1 将厨余转化为可再生能源。另外，餐厅亦将合作， 1% 抗疫力。机会，为尖沙咀区内有需要的社群共同营造社区的收入捐出和通过与非牟利组职合作，创造就业 Giovanni 表示，BluHouse 每个人离开时，都能带着愉快满足的心情。」客「感到宾至如归，像在自己家里一样。我希望的首要任务是让宾 The Pasticceria counter at BluHouse 琳琅满目的甜点柜 138 | TK | for the earth

Wielding techniques honed at Michelin-star restaurants, Galeota also presents the elegant, elevated cuisine of The Dining Room by BluHouse, including his irresistible Piedmont milk-fed veal tartare. “And one dish I keep with me wherever I go is Genovese ragu,” says Galeota. “I’ve put my own twist on it by stuffing it in ravioli.” This, he notes, creates an “explosion” of flavor.

BluHouse’s extensive wine cellar celebrates the viticultural diver sity of Italy, and a range of timeless Italian spirits transports diners back to the Inspired1980s.tobe “a business with a purpose,” BluHouse maintains a strong commitment to sustainability and positive social impact.

Initiatives include working with O Park 1 to convert food waste to renewable energy and pledging 1 percent of its revenue to cocreating neighborhood resilience and working with NGO partners to provide opportunity employment for underserved communities in Tsim Sha Tsui. Above all, says Galeota, BluHouse is about making guests “feel welcome here, like it’s their home. I want everyone to leave with happiness.”

brined for more than six hours, then infused with smoke over an open flame for a cracklingly crispy skin.

“For me, cooking is all about evoking childhood memories. First is the taste and then the beauty on the plate. 对我来说，烹饪的重点在于唤醒童年记忆。首先是味道，然后是美妙的摆盘。” Giovanni Galeota TOP (上) Nocciole Del Piemonte E Cioccolato at The Dining Room by BluHouse The Dining Room by BluHouse 榛子巧克力慕斯的 MIDDLE ( 中 ) Cappelli Alla “Genovese” at The Dining Room by byTheBluHouseDiningRoomBluHouse 热那亚肉酱意大利饺的 BOTTOM ( 下 ) Rigatoni Alla Carbonara at BluHouseBluHouse的卡邦尼意粉 BluHouseatMargheritaBluHouse 的玛格丽特薄饼 PRESENTED BY ROSEWOOD HONG KONG for the earth | TK | 139

Telmont Champagnes embody a unique style under the direction of Cellar Master and Head of Viticulture Bertrand Lhôpital, who repre sents the family’s fourth generation. Ethereal yet structured, they are perfectly balanced between tension and freshness, with the estate’s terroir fully expressing itself to reveal the many facets of nature.

CHAMPAGNE

Telmont Réserve Brut, made up of chardonnay, pinot meunier, and pinot noir, is a blend of seven exceptional vintages, resulting

秉持着「以自然之名」的品牌信条，玳慕（Telmont）香槟与已有 110 这座著名的酒庄正稳步向其目标迈进，致力于年历史的酒庄独特风土和谐并存。 2025 年实现将整座葡萄园转化为 100% 的有机农业种植，同时于 2031 年协助其他葡萄种植合作伙伴实现相同目标。 1912 年，Henri Lhôpital 为豪的就是其环保农法，部分葡萄园在尔奈附近的达默里创立玳慕酒庄。这座酒庄最引以在马恩省香槟区埃佩 2017 年获得首个 AB 认证（有机农业）。在酒庄现今 24.5 有机农法耕作，而其酒瓶是由公顷的葡萄园中，七成是采用 85% 回收玻璃制成。玳慕香槟的主席与股东的 Ludovic du Plessis 品牌的每一步行动之中。」我们的目标是以自然之名，将对风土的敬重融入到全力往现代迈进，但两者都来自此地的特有风土。表示：「酒庄深耕于传统，同时 2021 年 6 楚写出香槟的详细成份与生产方式。础，酒庄也替每支酒单独编号，并在正面标签上清分来选择运输商。由于透明度是环境保护计画的基用空运来进行供应与配送，并根据企业社会责任评信「最好的包装就是没有包装」。酒庄也完全停止月以来，酒庄已取消使用礼盒，相在家族第四代酒庄主人与葡萄种植负责人 Bertrand Lhôpital 自然的缤纷面向。之间取得完美平衡。庄园的风土条件充分展现出大风格。风味空灵但结构清晰，香槟在张力与清新感的领导下，玳慕香槟展现独特的玳慕甄选香槟（ Telmont Réserve Brut 年份的优异酒液混合酿造而成，丰富度、果香与霞多丽、皮诺莫尼耶与黑皮诺组成，是以七种不同）是由 Maison Telmont is committed to producing the world’s finest and most sustainable Champagnes. elegant, balanced, and green 优雅永续 BY LUCY JENKINS TELMONTCHAMPAGNEOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 141

Founded by Henri Lhôpital in 1912 on his land of Damery near Épernay in the Marne commune of Champagne, Telmont prides itself on environmentally responsible practices, having earned its first AB Certification for a portion of its vineyard in 2017. Today, 70 percent of its twenty-four and a half hectares is farmed organically, and its bottles are made from 85 percent recycled glass. “The House has one foot in tradi tion and the other in modernity,” says Ludovic du Plessis, chairman and shareholder of Champagne Telmont, “but both are firmly rooted in the terroir. We aim to act in the name of Mother Nature in every thing we Sincedo.”June 2021, the House has done away with gift boxes, believing that “the best packaging is no packaging.” And it has totally eliminated air freight for its supply and distribution, selecting transporters according to their CSR scores. With transparency as the cornerstone of its environmental program, the House individually numbers each bottle and showcases on the front label the detailed composition and production methods of the wine inside.

WITH “IN THE NAME OF MOTHER NATURE” at the heart of its ethos, Champagne Telmont works in harmony with the unique ter roir surrounding its 110-year-old estate. The renowned House is well on its way to the goal of converting its entire vineyard to 100 per cent organic agriculture by 2025 as it supports its partner growers in achieving the same by 2031.

“From protecting biodiversity on its land, to using 100% renewable electricity, Champagne Telmont is determined to radically lower its environmental footprint, making me proud to join as an investor. 从保护风土的生物多样性，到使用100%可再生电力，玳慕香槟致力于从根本上降低产品生产对环境造成的影响。” Leonardo DiCaprio in a beautiful harmony of richness, fruitiness, and freshness. Telmont Réserve Rosé, dominated by chardonnay, stems from four different harvests. With red-fruit-driven characteristics, it is powerful and fullbodied while retaining a refined finesse. The purity and exquisite taste of Telmont Champagnes have attracted the admiration of connoisseurs worldwide, including Hollywood legend and avid conservationist Leonardo DiCaprio, who became a Telmont shareholder in February 2022. “From protecting biodiversity on its land to using 100 percent renewable electricity,” he says, “Champagne Telmont is determined to radically lower its environ mental footprint.” （清新感交织出和谐的风味。玳慕桃红甄选香槟 Telmont Réserve Rosé 积极环保人士各地的品酒鉴赏家深感钦佩。好莱坞传奇巨星兼展现强而有力、饱满的口感。红色水果香气，在保有精致细腻的风味之时，也批不同年份的酒液精妙调和。这支酒带有强烈的）则以霞多丽为主，由四玳慕香槟的纯度与精致细腻的风味，让世界 Leonardo DiCaprio 在 2022 年 2 样性，到使用成为酒庄股东。他表示：「从保护风土的生物多月 100% 于从根本上降低产品生产对环境造成的影响。」可再生电力，玳慕香槟致力 CHAMPAGNE Chef de Cave Bertrand Lhôpital 首席酒窖大师 (3)TELMONTCHAMPAGNEOFCOURTESY 142 | TK | for the earth

CEO Ludovic du Plessis 首席执行官

PRESENTED BY SARTIRANO For winemaking family Sartirano, the journey toward sustainable certification has sparked the creation of Altygo, an intriguing new favorite in their range. inspirednaturally 源于自然 Piemonte D.O.C. Altygo

With a large stake in the domestic market, Sartirano wines are also enjoyed in more than thirty-five countries around the world.

The company’s commitment to quality wines received international recognition in February when Forbes listed Sartirano on their index of the top one hundred Italian food and wine producers, an honor the family views as the product of many years spent making wise choices based above all on respect for the terroir.The company’s path toward organic certification began in 2006, and recently it has been granted Equalitas sustainability certification in addition to its Institute of Environmental Ethics Certification (ICEA). Both demonstrate Sartirano’s commitment in every area of operations, from production and marketing to internal organization and social engagement.

SINCE 1871, four generations of the Sartirano family have been pro ducing wines that express the distinctive terroirs of Piedmont. Their two wineries, San Silvestro and Costa di Bussia, are in the heart of the Langhe region and produce some of the area’s most popular wines.

The uncertainty of the last two years has highlighted the impor tance of two of Sartirano’s most fundamental values, quality and sustainability, and 2022 has been a year in which Sartirano has been rewarded on both counts.

The pursuit of sustainability has also spurred the company to diversify and innovate in a quest to further broaden its range of quality wines that reflect the unique characteristics of the terroir. This led to a focus on the dolcetto grape, one that had a long history in the region but that had fallen out of favor as other varietals gained ground.

Dolcetto produces luscious fruit that yields beautifully dry and easy-drinking wines. Sartirano has combined this generous grape with other local and international varietals to produce Piemonte D.O.C. Altygo, a harmonious, deep-red wine with notes of ripe fruit and delicate hints of spice. This modern blend has met with wide acclaim, earning ninety-three points and a silver medal in London at the International Wine Challenge 2022.

1871 年以来，萨蒂拉诺 (Sartirano) 的两座酒庄续酿造能够传达皮埃蒙特有风土的葡萄酒。家族家族四代人持 San Silvestro 与 Costa di Bussia 质以及永续发展。明萨蒂拉诺的两大基本价值观确实至关重要：品的葡萄酒也受到全球超过三十五个国家的青睐。除了在意大利国内市场占有极大份额，萨蒂拉诺格地区中心，致力于生产该区最受欢迎的葡萄酒。位于朗疫情在过去两年来造成的波动与不稳定，证 2022 定以尊重当地风土为指导原则。荣的原因，是因为他们多年来做出明智选择，决食品与葡萄酒制造商百强。酒庄认为获得这项殊认可。福布斯将萨蒂拉诺列入意大利的努力与执着，终于在二月得到国际面向得到肯定与回馈。年，萨蒂拉诺也在这两大酒庄对于酿造高品质葡萄酒付出酒庄的有机认证之路始于 2006 年。最近，除了环境道德协会认证（ICEA）之外，酒庄还获得 Equalitas 满的葡萄与其他当地与国际品种结合，生产出口易饮的干型葡萄酒。萨蒂拉诺将这种果实饱品种陆续出现，后来种植数量就逐渐减少。重点。这种葡萄在该地区历史悠久，但随着其他的优质葡萄酒。酒庄因此将多切朵葡萄列为研发新手法来酿酒，借此推出更多反映当地风土特色运领域都实践了对环保与永续的承诺。营销、内部组织到社会参与，萨蒂拉诺在各个营永续发展认证。两者都证明从生产、对永续发展的追求也激励酒庄用更多样的创多切朵葡萄果实丰满，能产出风味极佳、顺 Piemonte D.O.C. Altygo 这款现代混酿葡萄酒广受好评，更在微妙的香料味，而又和谐无比的深红色葡萄酒。这款带有成熟水果气息与 2022 年伦敦国际葡萄酒挑战赛获得 93 分与银牌。 BY LUCY MORGAN San Silvestro Winery (RIGHT)SARTIRANOOFCOURTESY(LEFT);SINSAMANTHA for the earth | TK | 145

为响应香港环保海鲜联盟（HKSSC 澳餐厅与酒店在助保育地球上迅速减少的鱼类资源，三十多家港）的号召，协 6 月 6 日至 12 系列以永续海鲜来料理的独特菜式。日期间，推出一 HKSSC 在该地区的环保海鲜市场。联盟选择在透过谨慎尽责的采购方法来推动是由海鲜产业成员组成的联盟，旨 6 月 8 在香港与澳门都是史无前例的。界海洋日环保海鲜菜单」活动，这日世界海洋日当天，推行「世香港从 150 量为且海鲜产品消耗量无比庞大（每年人均海鲜消耗多个国家与地区进口海鲜，而 66.5 有限。的海鲜市场中，以永续方式取得的海鲜仍然相当公斤，是全球平均的三倍），但在香港 HKSSC 续概念。鲜产品皆为合法、有着清晰的来源，以及符合永的愿景是确保所有进口到香港的海 Hong Kong and Macau restaurants lead the way to seafood sustainability. fostering ﬁsh 环保渔业 BY ROBERT BURKLEY PRESENTED BY HKSSC IMAGESTREEEARTHHILTON,PAUL 146 | TK | for the earth

Although Hong Kong imports seafood from more than a hundred and fifty countries and territories and is a prodigious consumer of these products (with an annual per-capita rate of 66.5 kilograms, three times the global average), the city’s market for sustainably sourced seafood remains alarmingly limited. The HKSSC’s vision is to ensure that all seafood imported into the city is legal, traceable, and biologically sustainable. And the HKSSC, in light of the fact that overfishing takes place

HEEDING THE CALL of the Hong Kong Sustainable Seafood Coalition (HKSSC) to help save the world’s rapidly diminishing fish stocks, more than thirty local restaurants and hotels showcased responsibly sourced seafood on their menus between June 6 and 12.

The HKSSC, a coalition of seafood industry members that aims to advance the region’s sustainable seafood market through conscientious sourcing practices, chose the occasion of United Nations World Oceans Day on June 8 as the perfect time to debut its World Oceans Day special menu campaign, the first of its kind in Hong Kong and Macau.

across an estimated 34 percent of the world’s fisheries, also believes that the time is now for the industry to promote and for consumers to adopt more principled seafood eating habits that will lead to healthier oceans, a thriving blue economy, and a future filled with an abundance of seafood for all.

Members of the HKSSC that took part in the World Oceans Day special menu campaign included Macau’s Wynn Resorts and Sands China as well as supporting suppliers Indoguna Lordly, M&C Asia, Saga Seafood, and Pacific Rich Resources.

有鉴于全球百分之 34 的渔场都出现过度捕捞的情况，HKSSC 发展。的产品，目的就是为了呼吁大众重视海鲜产业的永续在整个供应链中具有海洋保育意识的供应商和分销商业者提供仅来自环保渔业和水产养殖业的海鲜，以及让所有人在未来都能继续享用丰富的海鲜产品。样一来，海洋就能更健康、带动更繁荣的蓝色经济，精神，并让消费者选择更具环保意识的海鲜产品。这认为当务之急是让业界提倡永续海鲜的因此，在为期一周的活动中，多家餐厅与餐饮参加「世界海洋日环保海鲜菜单」活动的 HKSSC 员暨活动供应商爵利香港食品有限公司、成员包括澳门永利度假村、金沙中国，以及联盟成 M&C Asia、 Saga Seafood 与 Pacific Rich Resources 参与活动的餐厅包括香港置地文华东方酒店的。 Amber、SOMM，以及 MO Bar，该酒店也是 HKSSC 成员。酒店的厨艺总监 Richard Ekkebus 式捕捞而来。」另一位使用的所有海鲜，都是以手钓以及徒手潜水等永续方表示：「我们 HKSSC 成员 KIN Food Halls 在其活动期间推出的寿司料理，也使用了获 BAP 认证的鲑鱼以及 ASC 认证的油甘鱼，可口风味让人无法抗拒。KONGHONGMIRATHE(OCTOPUS),MOXIEIMAGES,TREEEARTHHILTON,PAUL For more information or to become a member of the HKSSC, go to hksustainableseafoodcoalition.org for the earth | TK | 147

Among participating restaurants were Amber, SOMM, and MO Bar at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, also an HKSSC member. “All of our seafood is harvested using sustainable tech niques, such as line fishing and hand diving,” says Richard Ekkebus, the hotel’s director of culinary operations. And KIN Food Halls, another HKSSC member, served BAP-certified king salmon and ASC certified yellowtail in its irresistible array of nigiri sushi dishes.

With these considerations in mind, selected local restaurants and meal providers during the week-long event helped to create momentum for sustainable development of the seafood industry by serving products sourced only from responsible fishing and aquaculture operations as well as ocean-minded suppliers and dis tributors throughout the supply chain.

“I REALLY LIKE THE TEXTURE and the richness,” says Chef Shane Osborn about Ōra King salmon. “People describe it as the Wagyu beef of the seafood world.” Osborn, who serves as an Ōra King brand ambassador, speaks from experience as chef patron of Michelin-starred res taurant Arcane. He and other top chefs at Hong Kong’s leading restaurants, as well as discerning home cooks, look to Waves Pacific as their preferred source for the highestquality and sustainably produced international products, including New Zealand’s premier farm-raised king salmon. “The beautiful thing about Ōra King,” says Osborn, “is that when you roast and caramelize it, it gets slightly crispy on the outside and 说到 Ōra King 鲑鱼，名厨 Shane Osborn 中和牛』。」非常喜欢它的肉质和丰富香气，人们都说它是『海表示：「我经验丰富的 Shane 是香港米其林餐厅 Arcane 养殖鲑鱼的行政总厨，也是纽西兰顶级 Ōra King 养续生产的食材，其中就包括新西兰首屈一指的饲浪太平洋从世界各地入口的一系列高品质且可持挑剔的家庭厨师一样，钟爱由供应商香港其他顶尖主厨，以及对食材品质的品牌大使。他和 Ōra King 鲑鱼。 Shane 说：「Ōra King 鲑鱼美好的地方在于， Waves Pacific Ltd. is Hong Kong’s exclusive supplier of Ōra King salmon, a unique breed raised in harmony with nature for the utmost in culinary excellence. king sustainabilityof 永续之王 BY ROBERT BURKLEY 148 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

Chefs like Shane Osborn trust Waves Pacific to seek out and supply the world’s finest and most environmentally responsible products, including Ōra King. Waves Pacific puts its trust in Ōra King’s stringent production methods, which in turn are founded on trust in BAP’s industry-setting standards. And it is this collaborative and unwavering commitment to ethical and sustainable practices on the part of everyone involved that ensures that nutritious and delicious Ōra King salmon will continue to be enjoyed by generations far into the future.

PRESENTED BY WAVES PACIFIC buttery and soft on the inside.” These flavorful and sumptuous qualities are the natural result of Ōra King’s meticulous production process that focuses on sus tainability, which for Ōra King is more than a trendy buzzword.Consumers’ assurance of the quality and sustain ability of Ōra King salmon is built on trust in every link of a chain that leads back from table to hatch ery. The company adheres to the requirements of Best Aquaculture Practices ( BAP ), an international third-party certification program for environmentally responsible fish farming, the only global aquaculture criteria to cover the entire production chain. An independent expert auditor is sent on-site to verify that each operation is meeting strict seafood pro ductionBAPstandards.hasawarded Ōra King its highest four-star rating, ensuring that from processing plant to farm, from hatchery to feed mill, the production chain is 100 percent compliant with hundreds of best prac tices encompassing food safety, worker welfare, and the conservation of nature’s resources. Escape-prevention measures are taken, effluent is treated, and IUU raw materials are excluded from feed.

般的滑顺软嫩口感。」面焦脆，内部肉质仍然能保留黄油在烧烤或用焦糖炙烤时，鱼排的表 Ōra King 对于性，因此产品风味自然、肉质绝佳。生产过程严谨，每一步皆注重永续的 Ōra King 不仅仅因为这是当下的流行现象。来说，注重「永续」消费者对 Ōra King 任之上。鱼从孵化池到餐桌的供应链的信品质和永续性的肯定，建基于鲑鲑鱼的 Ōra King 水产养殖联盟的最佳水产养殖规范严格遵守全球 BAP（Best Aquaculture Practices 涵盖整个生产链的水产养殖标准。完整的第三方水产养殖认证体系，也是全球唯一）的标准，这是一项全面和 BAP 标准。业审核员前往企业，确保每一步都符合严格生产会安排专 Ōra King 获得 BAP 业链都符合品牌从加工厂、农场、孵化场到饲料厂的整个产四星最高评级，这代表 BAP 不报告和不受管制的捕捞等等。资源的保护、防逃措施、排水处理，并抵制非法、个范畴，其中包括食品安全、员工福利、对自然的数百项标准。这个评级覆盖多 Ōra King 质的鲑鱼。每条鲑鱼都会被赋于专属的并茁壮成长至成鱼，再由专业分级师拣选最高品苗，幼鲑被运输至马尔堡峡湾快速流动的海水中，水开始：清澈的活泉水孕育着孵化的受精卵和鱼的养殖流程由蒂怀柯鲁普普泉的淡 Ōra King 编号，用作资料追踪。正如总厨 Shane Osborn 相信浪太平洋会发掘及供应包括 Ōra King 境的产品，浪太平洋则相信鲑鱼等最好、最有利于环 Ōra King 产方式的坚持，而这种坚持也反映在对对品质和生 BAP 养丰富、细嫩鲜甜的式的坚定承诺，将确保未来世代都能继续享用营规范的信任之上。这种对社会责任和永续养殖方养殖 Ōra King 鲑鱼。 The pristine waters of New MarlboroughZealand’sSounds 新西兰马尔堡峡湾的原始水域 ← Ōra King is the choice of top chefs around the world. Ōra King 少顶尖主厨青睐鲑鱼获不 (2)PACIFICWAVESOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 149

The breeding program starts at Ōra King’s freshwater facil ity where eggs are hatched in waters from pristine Te Waikoropupū Springs. Smolt are then matured in fast-flowing sea currents of Marlborough Sounds before the top-quality salmon are selected by a master grader, branded Ōra King, and numbered for traceability.

At Château Galoupet, humans and nature work in harmony to create rosé wines that are exceptional expressions of the Provençal terroir. symbiotic vineyards 和谐共生 PRESENTED BY MOËT HENNESSY DIAGEO BY LUCY MORGAN

IN 1894 , the wines of Château Galoupet were said to “make one feel nature is beautiful and life is good.” And since 2019, when the estate was acquired by Moët Hennessy, Château Galoupet has continued to build on this legacy by becoming a model of sustainable development, a model that serves as a beacon to the wider wine community.

Beyond its status as a Cru Classé winery, Château Galoupet has become a haven of biodiversity, a sanctuary for a wide range of native wildlife. Its forests provide a habitat for migrant birds, rare bats, and the Hermann’s tortoise. The forests’ wild oak, along with the naturally dry environment, make a perfect home for this species, which craves shade and shelter. With natural oak forests sadly diminishing, Château Galoupet‘s woodlands ensure a continuing safe and suitable environment for this attractiveBeestortoise.havebecome a priority as part of Château Galoupet’s drive to protect the ecology of the area. A healthy population of these essen tial pollinators ensures a sustainable biodiversity of indigenous plants, which in turn provide safe habitat and plentiful food for insects. Château Galoupet has deployed multiple strategies to encourage bees. “Cover-cropping” is the practice of planting rows of grasses, flow ers, mustard, rye, and clover to attract bees while also providing essential

The property comprises seventy-seven hectares of protected wood land surrounding sixty-nine hectares of vineyards planted with several varietals, including the uncommon tibouren, a flavorful black grape with thin skin and firm and juicy flesh that is perfect for rosé production. Only four hundred fifty hectares of tibouren remain in Provence, but Château Galoupet is planning to plant more, both to ensure that this grape is pre served and also to make it a signature component of their wines.

1894 年，Château Galoupet 从具有「能让人感到自然与生活之美」之效。自的葡萄酒被誉为 2019 年酒庄被 LVMH 集团并购后，Château Galoupet 的典范以及广大葡萄酒界的标竿。继续发扬这项传统，成为永续发展总经理 Jessica Julmy 与酒庄总监 Mathieu Meyer 顷的堤布宏，但酿造桃红葡萄酒。普罗旺斯只剩下四百五十公黑葡萄，皮薄、果肉结实多汁，非常适合用来其中包括罕见的堤布宏。这是一种味道鲜美的围有六十九公顷葡萄园，种植多个葡萄品种，行深入分析，也仔细纪录盘点庄园内的动植物。团队密切合作。这些专家对土壤、风以及水进学家、农业生态学家和环境建筑师组成的专业倡导者。他们花了三年时间与历史学家、地质加入了酒庄团队，他们都是永续发展的庄园由七十七公顷野生保护林组成，周 Château Galoupet 酒庄打算 ← Jessica Julmy ← ← Château Galoupet considers biodiversity an essential part of viticulture. Château Galoupet 性是葡萄栽培的一大关键。认为生物多样 (3)DIAGEOHENNESSYMOËTOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 151

Two champions of sustainability have joined the estate’s team: Managing Director Jessica Julmy and Estate Director Mathieu Meyer. They have spent three years working closely with a group of historians, geologists, agroecologists, and environmental architects, specialists who have made intensive soil, wind, and water analyses and have drawn up a meticulous inventory of flora and fauna on the estate.

Château 同时也替土壤提供必要养分。除了替野生蜜蜂营造出适合生存的环境，项策略来保育蜜蜂。「覆土作物」指的是种植一排排的草、花、芥菜、黑麦以及苜蓿来吸引蜜蜂，

Galoupet 采用了多

标志性成分。种植更多。此举不仅是为了保存这种葡萄品种，也是为了使其成为酒庄葡萄酒的 Château Galoupet 对昆虫来说亦是安全的栖息地以及丰富的食物来源。者的数量能维持在健全的水平，本地植物就得以保有永续的多样性，而这些植物全、舒适的栖息环境。想的家园。全球天然橡树林的面积不断减少，庄园的林地就能持续为陆龟提供安中，其中的野生橡树以及自然干燥的环境，对喜爱阴凉与蔽荫的物种来说是最理本地野生动物的栖息之所。不少候鸟、稀有蝙蝠与赫曼陆龟都栖息于酒庄的森林不仅是一座酒庄，更是生物多样性的庇护之地，以及各种在保护该地区生态的计划中，蜜蜂已成为优先保育物种。只要这群重要授粉

Château Galoupet酒庄还与法国蜜蜂学观察站（还在整个庄园安置两百个蜂箱，来增加一般蜜蜂的数量。 OFA）合作，以培育和保护全球的蜜蜂数量。 Château Galoupet’s natural reservoir stores rainwater and serves as a resource for the many birds and fauna on the estate. In the future, it will supply water for irrigation. 园中有一个储存雨水的天然水库，也是庄园内许多动物的水源，将来会被用作灌溉用途。 (4)DIAGEOHENNESSYMOËTOFCOURTESY 152 | TK | for the earth

nutrients to the soil. In addition to creating an opti mal environment for wild bees, Château Galoupet has installed two hundred beehives across the estate to increase the general bee population. The company has also partnered with L’Observatoire Français d’Apidologie (OFA) with a view to nurturing and protecting the global bee population. It hosts one of only twelve special ized fertilization stations in the world for queen bees, the unique type that establishes their own colonies.Four microterroirs can be found on the property, each one offering a distinct geological composition. This allows for different varietals to be matched perfectly to a plot that provides ideal growing conditions. During the intense sunshine of the summer months, shade from Château Galoupet’s surrounding woodlands and cool breezes from the sea ensure that the vineyards remainThecool.result is beautifully expressive fruit that is transformed into a range of remarkable wines. This year sees the first release of a spectacu lar rosé, Château Galoupet Cru Classé 2021. Its enticing mix of complex and intense peach, citrus fruit, and bitter almond notes is complemented by delicate floral aromas. This well-structured, full-bodied blend delivers a delightful minerality on the finish, redolent of the Mediterranean sea breezes that cool the vines.

转化成首次发行的桃红葡萄酒葡萄园保持凉爽舒适。庄园周围林地的树荫与来自大海的凉风，仍能让供最佳生长环境。即使夏季天气炎热、烈日当空，组成都各不相同，这样就能替不同品种的葡萄提站，其中一座就位于庄园之內。特殊种类，世上目前只有十二座专门的蜂王受精在蜜蜂的世界中，蜂王是属于会建立专属蜂群的庄园内有四座微型风土环境区，每区的地质各项策略与行动迎来甜美的果实，葡萄被 Château Galoupet Cru Classé 2021 降温的地中海海风气息。余韵中有着令人愉悦的矿物味，散发着为葡萄藤致的花香。这款混合酒的结构良好，酒体饱满，和苦杏仁风味的桃红葡萄酒复杂而浓郁，带有细。这支结合了桃子、柑橘类水果 PRESENTED BY MOËT HENNESSY DIAGEO Beyond its status as a Cru Classé winery, Château Galoupet has become a haven of biodiversity, a sanctuary for a wide range of native wildlife. Château Galoupet不仅是一座酒庄，更是生物多样性的庇护之地，以及各种本地野生动物的栖息之所。 Château Galoupet Cru Classé Rosé 2021 is mellowed in oak barrels. Château Galoupet Cru Classé Rosé 2021 在橡木桶中醇化。 Mathieu Meyer for the earth | TK | 153

Hanakotoba Paul Chan, mixologist of B’hood

brilliant combinations 百变滋味 Not a Cuba Libre (2)SINSAMANTHA for the earth | TK | 155

PRESENTED BY BACARDI

Using Bacardi Carta Blanca white rum, which offers delicate fruit and vanilla notes, in combination with B’hood’s handmade coldpressed grape juice, BerryBush tea, and a hint of vinegar for added freshness, Hanakotoba is a fine flavor balance between sweet, bitter, and savory. Fresh seasonal flowers add an extra touch of fragrant sensuality.

Not a Cuba Libre, Chan’s imaginative, modern take on an iconic drink, uses his special list of ingredients to emulate the famous secret recipe of Coca-Cola. Served in a Bacardi-inspired retro glass with B’hood’s own printed label, the cocktail is made with smooth Bacardi Reserva Ocho, a complex golden rum with a deeply lay ered, mellow flavor that combines notes of dried fruit, spice, and vanilla. Designing it especially for cocktail lovers who want a lighter version of an Old Fashioned that is milder and easier to drink, Toby Lo of Ohm Café and Bar selects Bacardi Carta Negra rum along with bourbon whiskey for his per sonal twist on a classic. A rich cocktail filled with sweetness, spice, and smokiness, it combines coffee liqueur and a coffee-infused smoke infu sion as well as chocolate popping candy. The meld of flavors is a perfect match for Bacardi Bacardi’s rich portfolio of rums finds new expressions in innovative cocktails from Hong Kong mixologists Paul Chan and Toby Lo.

HANAKOTOBA, the Japanese language of flow ers, inspired Paul Chan of Hong Kong’s B’hood coffee and diner to create his stunningly beauti ful Bacardi cocktail of the same name, presented as part of a bouquet of flowers and designed to delight the senses.

创作香港咖啡酒吧餐厅 B’hood 的招牌饮品 Hanakotoba 的灵感来自于日文的「花语」，调酒师 Paul Chan 为宾客呈现丰富的感官飨宴。调制鸡尾酒，并以季节花束装饰酒杯，以百加得兰姆酒 Hanakotoba 使用百加得 Carta Blanca 股芬芳。咸的丰富口感，在鲜花的衬托下更多了花茶以及点缀用的香醋，交织出甜苦鲜草调性，和新鲜冷压的葡萄果汁、莓果白兰姆酒，酒体细致的果香和香 Not a Cuba Libre（这不是自由古巴）是 Paul 作。他以百加得向经典调酒「自由古巴」致敬之 Reserva Ocho 感，并以印有等香气，风味富有层次却不失滑顺的口深金色泽的酒体有干果、辛香料、香草兰姆酒取代「自由古巴」中的可乐成分，八年陈酿 B’hood 品，重现百加得经典酒杯的复古感。商标的酒杯盛装饮 Ohm Café and Bar 的 Toby Lo 则以百加得 Carta Negra 特色的威士忌，设计出更容易入口且具其个人黑兰姆酒搭配波本 Old Fashioned 尾调。草等气息揉合出带有甘草和糖蜜风味的和黑兰姆酒的热带水果、奶油焦糖、香跳跳糖，香甜中带有辛香料和烟熏风味，尾酒搭配咖啡酒、咖啡烟熏液和巧克力鸡尾酒。这款鸡 Ji Mai Lou 是 Toby 以百加得品，发想自经典港式甜点椰汁紫米露，的另一款创意酒 Reserva Ocho 出港式甜品的全新滋味。豆蔻、肉桂、丁香风味相辅相成，碰撞香芋地瓜细沫的丝滑口感与兰姆酒的肉搭配椰奶、芋头及地瓜，奶香浓郁之余，八年陈酿兰姆酒

Carta Negra’s notes of tropical fruit, buttery caramel, and vanilla that lead to a delicious finish of licorice and molasses.

Ji Mai Lou is Lo’s creative new way to enjoy one of Hong Kong’s classic dessert dishes, black glutinous rice with coconut milk, which served as the cocktail’s inspiration. The luscious concoction, made with premium Bacardi Reserva Ocho golden rum, also contains coconut milk, locally sourced taro, and sweet potato. Rich and creamy, the delectable drink features taro and sweet potato foam for the ultimate hit of silkiness, a delightful complement to Bacardi Reserva Ocho’s spicy hints of nutmeg, cinnamon, and clove.

PRESENTED BY BACARDI FashionedOld (2)SINSAMANTHA 156 | TK | for the earth

Ji Mai Lou Toby Lo, mixologist of Ohm Café and Bar

PRESENTED BY JEBSEN

Flor de Caña Rum, one of Central America’s finest aged rums, is the world’s first and only carbon neutral and fair trade certified spirit.

spirit sustainabilityof 永续精神 ↖ Flor de Caña Rum sponsors the Zero Waste Cocktails initiative. 甘蔗之花的「零废弃鸡尾酒」计画。 ↑↑ The distillery is powered by 100 percent renewable energy derived from sugar cane residue biomass. 能源均来自甘蔗渣。酒厂用作供电的可再生生物

As a single-estate rum producer, Flor de Caña Rum manages every aspect of the distillation process, from sustainably sourcing sugar cane in fair trade working conditions to capturing all CO2 emissions during fermentation. The fac tory is powered by 100 percent renewable energy derived from sugar cane residue biomass, known as bagasse, and the rum, free from any additives or arti ficial ingredients, is aged for up to thirty years in hand-assembled bourbonPeoplebarrels.also matter to Flor de Caña Rum, and the company champions social environmentalism through pioneering outreach programs. Since the turn of the twentieth century, employees have benefited from access to free education and health services. The company also donates to nonprofits like APROQUEN burn center and relief-and-development organization ANF. Over the past two decades, Flor de Ca a Rum has planted nearly eight hun dred thousand trees in collaboration with One Tree Planted. But perhaps most celebrated by environment-conscious connoisseurs of fine spirits the world over is Flor de Caña Rum’s Zero Waste Cocktails initiative. In partnership with Food Made Good, a global culinary-industry nonprofit, the distillery since 2021 has joined forces with more than four hundred eco-friendly bars worldwide to craft mixed drinks from repurposed food scraps or leftovers sourced in the local community. Together, they’ve prevented more than twentyfive tons of food waste from entering landfills while creating a portfolio of delightful and sustainable rum-based cocktails in the process. WINES AND SPIRITS

BY KATE NICHOLSON

FOR THOSE WHO PREFER their drinkable enjoyment with more than a touch of good conscience, Flor de Ca a Rum is the ultra-premium rum of choice. The family-owned Nicaraguan distillery, adventurously poised since 1890 at the base of an active volcano, has been operating with the environment squarely in mind for well over a century.

Many of Flor de Ca a Rum’s production processes remain unchanged from the naturally low-waste practices of yesteryear, ensuring that the taste of this richly amber rum continues to deliver its exquisitely mellow smoothness. But the distillery has also wholeheartedly adopted the carbon-footprint-reducing innova tions of today.

(3)SPIRITSANDWINESJEBSENOFCOURTESY 158 | TK | for the earth

对于心怀环保意识的品酒雅士而言，甘蔗之花（Flor de Caña Rum）是无与伦比的兰姆酒首选。活火山底部的尼加拉瓜蒸馏酒厂在这个家族持有、位于一座 1890 年创立，一个多世工成分，并在手工组装的波本酒桶中陈酿长达三十年。余物质，也就是所谓的甘蔗渣。兰姆酒不含任何添加剂或人放都被捕获。酒厂用作供电的可再生生物能源均来自甘蔗剩以永续方式取得甘蔗，再确保发酵过程中的所有二氧化碳排的每个环节都符合永续理念：先在公平贸易的工作条件下，能减少碳足迹的现代举措。续保有醇厚、细致滑顺的口感。不过，酒厂也积极采用各种酒工法其实相差无几，这种工法让浓郁的琥珀色兰姆酒能持纪以来始终以保护环境为营运导向。甘蔗之花的许多生产过程，跟以往废弃物较少的天然酿作为单一产区的兰姆酒制造商，甘蔗之花确保蒸馏过程员工能享有免费教育与健康服务。公司还捐款给的外展计划来倡导社会环保精神。自二十世纪初以来，公司对甘蔗之花来说，员工也非常重要。该企业透过新锐 APROQUEN 烧烫伤中心以及救济与发展组织 ANF 等非营利机构。过去二十年间，甘蔗之花与 One Tree Planted 组织合作，种植将许是甘蔗之花的「零废弃鸡尾酒」计画。自近八十万棵树。最受全球具有环保意识的顶级烈酒鉴赏家称道的，或 2021 年起，酒厂与专注于食品可持续发展的非营利组织 Food Made Good 尾酒。填区，同时调制出一系列清新可口、符合永续精神的兰姆鸡手拯救超过二十五吨的食物，让这些食物不至于进入垃圾堆重新利用的食材和厨余来调制饮品。透过这个计画，他们携合作，与全球各地的四百多家环保酒吧联手，以当地社区经 Sustainably produced Flor de Caña Rum is the ultra-premium choice of connoisseurs. 永续生产的甘蔗之花兰姆酒是鉴赏家的不二选择。 FOR THE EARTH | TK | 159

IN AUSTRIA, FAMILY-OWNED WINERIES, sometimes dating back centuries, are the norm. There is great respect for the rich repository of hard-won know-how that has been passed down through the years. In the Neusiedlersee region, Werner Michlits, along with his parents and two brothers, runs Meinklang, a seventh-generation family farm that raises vegetables and cattle in addition to grapes. Of his winemaking approach, he says, “It is not that much dif ferent from what my grandfather did.” And to Monika Tement of family-run Tement winery, with vineyards in both Austria’s Südsteiermark region and neighboring Slovenia, it’s important to keep their approach “always in line with pre viousButgenerations.”alongwith appreciation of the past comes exciting change.

知识。在新锡德尔湖区，民众尊重多年来代代相传、难能可贵的丰富酿酒在奥地利，具有数世纪历史的家族酒庄并不罕见。 Werner Michlits 和两位兄弟共同经营着传承至第七代的家族牧场与父母 Meinklang，除了种植葡萄，牧场內还种植了蔬菜及饲养牛只。对于自己的酿酒工法，他说：「跟我祖父的方法毫无二致。」家族经营的 Tement 尼亚都有葡萄园，对运营酒庄的利的南施泰尔马克区和邻近的斯洛维酒庄在奥地 Monika Tement 庄也酝酿出令人振奋的新变化。种植农法。来说，最重要的任务在于「维持与前几代相同的」但是，除了对过往传统的尊重，这些家传酒 Ludwig Hiedler 是在坎普河区经营 Hiedler 该是相辅相成的。」知识，并从中构思出创新的农法。进步与传统应力于复兴那些已经佚失的传统，尝试运用往昔的他说：「现在，我们发现有越来越多葡萄种植者致酒庄的第五代经营者，在这波演进趋势中，最受人注目的还是以有 Austria’s dynamic younger generation of family winemakers look to their legacy as they build the future. guardian and vanguard 守护与传承 160 | TK | for the earth

BY ROBERT BURKLEY

PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

“Right now,” says Ludwig Hiedler, among the fifth generation operat ing the Hiedler estate in the Kamptal region, “we are essentially seeing a growing movement of winegrowers interested in reviving those sometimes already-lost traditions, experimenting with old knowledge, and innovating new ways from it. Evolution and tradition should be two sides of the same coin.” Certainly among the strongest evolving trends is the drive toward

机与生物动力种植法为主的永续生产法则。Monika 指出：「我们必须不停改进，努力了解大自然。2018 年以来，我们已经获得 AT BIO-402 有机认证，并且正在转换到 Demeter（有机农业标准）和 respektBIODYN 支生物动力年份葡萄酒会在（生物动力法认证）的过程中。我们的第一 2023 年问世。」 Werner 将 Meinklang 视为一个单一有机体：「农场的所有部分都紧密相系种植场』转换为『葡萄园』的方式。」居动植物创造自然、稳定的栖息地，这就是将『葡萄的动植物提供生存空间。酒庄的目标是替葡萄树的共属于自己的肥料。我们相信葡萄园应该为生物多样性我们透过堆肥牛粪来制作 Ludwig 来说仍然很受用。」壮成长。这是我们家族一脉相承的哲学，对现在的我我想让葡萄树自然生长，但在我需要的时候又能够茁身就是酒庄最大的财富，因为土壤滋养着葡萄树。」方式，让我们更能感受到葡萄每年的需求。而土壤本最重要的任务。手工作业对葡萄树来说是种很温和的补充：「照料葡萄树和土壤是葡萄种植者「我的方法是在动手实作的同时，避免过度干预。(2)WINEAUSTRIANOFCOURTSEY for the earth | TK | 161

Michlits views Meinklang almost as a single organism: “All parts of the farm are connected with each other very closely – we create our own fertilizer by composting cow manure. We believe a vineyard should provide a living place for a biodiversity of fauna and flora. Our aim is to create natural and stable habitats for our vines’ cohabitants – this is how wine plantations become vineyards.”

And, according to Hiedler, “Tending vines and soils is the most crucial aspect of a winegrower’s work. Working by hand is espe cially gentle for the vines and gives us a better feel for what they need from year to year. And the soil itself is our greatest asset as it nourishes the vines.

sustainable production that emphasizes organic and biodynamic growing methods. “You must never stop improving and under standing Mother Nature,” says Tement. “Since 2018, we’ve been certified AT BIO-402 organic and are in conversion to Demeter and respekt-BIODYN. Our first biodynamic vintage will be 2023.”

“My approach is probably hands-on and hands-off at the same time. It’s a process of letting the wine do what it needs to do but also being active when I have to. It’s a philosophy our family has always been following and that is still valid for me today.”

Boschendal wine estate, an icon of the Cape Winelands, was awarded Conservation Champion status by the WWF in 2016. It has also been an active member of the organization’s Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI), committed to an ongoing cleaning project to preserve the natural habitat in and around its winery. After clearing more than one hundred hectares of alien vegetation, the winery already has seen an increase in year-round stream flow and a return of native wildlife.

Old Road Wine Company focuses on dryfarmed old vineyards whose deep-root systems are better conditioned to withstand dry conditions. And at Franschhoek Cellar, a state-of-the-art under ground bio-reactor treats all effluent to irrigation standards. Their rehabilitated effluent dams also provide habitat for a multitude of indigenous birds, including several rare nesting pairs.

影响。从深霜到酷暑，从山洪到森林大火，葡萄种植业总是容易被大自然 2018 越高。酿酒师正坚定不移地采取行动，矢志打造永续的未来。耗殆尽，而这种百年一遇的天气现象在世界各地发生的频率也越来年，南非西开普省遭遇了三年干旱，将储备的水资源消 DGB 是南非最大的独立葡萄酒公司之一，而环境永续一直是 DGB 的核心价值。为了抵销碳排放，DGB 在乌伦迪种植十公顷的竹林，这项行动赢得 2012 出南非最轻的葡萄酒瓶，重量只有年饮料业务绿色奖的道德奖。其团队亦打造 350 克，成功减少运输吨位重量。为了迎合他们的企业使命，DGB 统的举措，这对他们企业的远景也相当有利。的葡萄酒品牌采取各种保护生态系 Boschendal 葡萄酒庄园是开普酒乡的重要地标，在 2016 年被世界自然基金会授予保育冠军的头衔。酒庄一直以来也是 WWF 物也回归原始栖息地。外来植披清理掉后，酒庄发现年度的溪流量有所增加，本地野生动理计画，目的是保护酒厂内和周围的自然栖息地。将一百多公顷的生物多样性和葡萄酒倡议的积极会员，致力于推动一项持续性的清的 Old Road Wine 受干燥的土壤条件。酒庄以干耕为主，其老葡萄园的深层根系更能承 Franschhoek Cellar 也成为众多本土鸟类的栖息地，还有几对罕见的鸟类在当地筑巢。物反应器，能将污水处理到可供灌溉的卫生标准。他们修复的污水坝酒庄则配备最先进的地下生 Backsberg 非第一座经过认证的碳中和酒庄。酿酒师是另一座获世界自然基金会授予保育冠军，也是南 Alicia Rechner 样葡萄藤就能年复一年自然茂盛地生长、结果。」最适合土壤普遍条件的葡萄品种来栽种，才是永续的葡萄种植法。「这解释，选择 PRESENTED BY DGB Under the auspices of DGB, South African winemakers build their businesses on a foundation of sustainability. ofstewardstheland 守卫大地 Alicia Rechner, winemaker at Backsberg Backsberg 的酿酒师 Alicia Rechner 162 | TK | for the earth

According to winemaker Alicia Rechner of Backsberg, another WWF Conservation Champion

FROM DEEP FROST to searing heat, flash floods to forest fires, the viticultural industry has always been vulnerable to the whims of nature. But “oncea-century” weather phenomena, like South Africa’s 2018 Western Cape water crisis that saw a three-year drought deplete reserves to devastating lows, are occurring with greater frequency around the world, and winemakers are taking committed action to forge a sustainableEnvironmentalfuture.

sustainability has long been a core value for DGB, one of South Africa’s largest inde pendent wine companies. Its initiative to offset carbon by planting a ten-hectare bamboo grove in Ulundi won the Ethical Award at the Drinks Business Green Awards 2012 ceremony, and its team created South Africa’s lightest wine bottle, at 350 grams, to reduce transportation tonnage. In concert with their corpo rate mission, DGB’s wine brands have adopted myriad practices that protect the ecosystem while also ben efiting the long-term prospects of their businesses.

BoschendalBoschendalAccommodation 庄园 and South Africa’s first certified carbon-neutral winery, planting vines in a sustainable manner means selecting grape varieties that best suit the land’s pre vailing conditions, “so that the vines can comfortably do what they are meant to do year after year.”

“Environmental responsibility and sustainability are the only way to ensure our long-term survival,” says Richard Duckitt of Bellingham. The winery not only collects and reuses more than one million liters of rainwater every year but has also installed rooftop solar panels for a renewable, zero-emission energy source. “The reality is that if we want a future for our children, sustainability is not a choice but our duty.”

Through the combined efforts of mulching the vineyards with compost and growing appropri ate crop cover, water permeability is improved, water storage capacity is increased, and evapora tion is reduced. Protecting the soil’s top layer where microbes reside also enhances its overall health and makes for healthy, happy vines.

(2)DGBOFCOURTESY Find the distribution list for the DGB wineries on page 172. 藤更健康、有活力。壤的整体状况更强健，让葡萄富含微生物的土壤表层，能使土优秀，蒸发量也因此下降。保护的渗透性得到改善，储水能力更搭配种植适当的覆盖性作物，水利用堆肥来覆盖葡萄园，再 Bellingham 酒庄的 Richard Duckitt 我们的责任。」永续不是一个选项，而是代创造美好的生活环境，能源。「如果我们想替后借此获得可再生的零碳排还在屋顶安装太阳能板，一百万公升的雨水，而且年收集并重新利用超过唯一途径。」酒厂不仅每我们能继续与地球共存的境责任与永续发展是确保表示：「环 for the earth | TK | 163

PRESENTED BY LINKS CONCEPT Family-owned Links Concept offers an exceptional portfolio of wines produced with a focus on the future of the planet. toast to tomorrow 酒敬未来 BY LUCY MORGAN ← Familia Torres Mas la Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 桃乐丝玛斯拉普拉那红葡萄酒 → Champagne Louis Roederer Collection 242 路易王妃242号珍藏香槟 → → Dow’s Vintage Port 2016 多斯年份波特酒2016 ↓ Yann Durieux Love and Pif 德颂酒庄和平之歌白葡萄酒 164 | TK | for the earth

DISTRIBUTORS OF MORE THAN sixty wine brands throughout Hong Kong, Macau, and Mainland China, Links Concept is committed to protect ing the environment for coming generations. Family operated for more than twenty years, it partners with dozens of family-owned wineries that share the same values of environmental responsibility.

Among these industry leaders in the sustainable pro duction of wines is Champagne Louis Roederer, currently the largest biodynamic Champagne house in the world. Twenty years ago, the company made the decision to practice viticulture by working hand in hand with nature, and it has been delighted with the positive effects on the quality and flavor of its grapes and with the manifold benefits to its vineyards. In 2020, Champagne Louis Roederer, which has been in the process of conversion to biodynamic production, released Cristal 2012, its first fully certified organic and biodynamic Cristal vintage. With other Champagne houses now following its lead, the company is looking forward to growing positive environmental impacts across the region. In Bourgogne, innovative wine producer Yann Durieux has become a leading agent of change in the production of natural wines and in man aging vineyards in harmony with the ecosystem. Avoiding all chemicals, Durieux lets his vines grow tall, accepting low yields in return for highquality grapes. His beautifully energetic and vital wines are the truest expression of the terroir. Miguel Torres Sr., president of Familia Torres and cofounder of International Wineries for Climate Action, is at the helm of a worldwide mosaic of properties, among them two wineries in Chile and Spain that are regarded as beacons of sustainability. The Torres & Earth program aims to mitigate the effects of climate change by reducing the company’s

One of the most influential names in the port wine world, Symington Family Estates, has shown its commitment to reduc ing carbon emissions by becoming an applicant member of International Wineries for Climate Action. It is also the first Portuguese company to receive B Corporation certification, recognizing that it meets the highest standards of social and environmental performance. “Climate change is one of the greatest risks facing humankind,” says Symington Family Estates Associate Director Rob Symington. “We need individuals, busi nesses, and governments to rise to the challenge.”

carbon footprint and raising awareness about the need to take action. The objective is to reduce CO2 emissions, from vine yard to end consumer, by 60 percent by 2030 and to become a net-zero-emissions winery before 2040.

家族酒商灵思概念 (Links Concept) 密切合作。念与几十家抱持相同环境永续价值观的家族酒庄护自然环境，造福后代。过去二十年来，灵思概与中国內地分销六十多个葡萄酒品牌，致力于保在香港、澳门路易王妃酒庄（ Champagne Louis Roederer 各种好处，让酒厂十分欣喜。仅大幅改善葡萄的品质与风味，也为葡萄园带来过与自然界共生的方式来栽培葡萄。这种手法不大的生物动力香槟酒庄。二十年前，酒庄决定透是永续葡萄酒界的产业领导者，同时也是世上最） 2020 的路易王妃酒庄发布了年，致力在生产过程中使用生物动力法 Cristal 2012 能持续在该区为环境带来正向影响。举引来其他香槟酒庄仿效，路易王妃酒庄很期待庄首支获得认证的有机和生物动力高级香槟。此香槟，成为酒在勃根地，创新的酿酒师 Yann Durieux 也以与生态系统和平共存的方法来管理葡萄园。发起多项变革，除了调整生产天然葡萄酒的方式，率先 Yann 萄酒风味活力奔放，如实呈现出当地风土的特色。长高，愿意以低产量来换取高品质的葡萄。他的葡避免使用任何化学物质，并且让葡萄树自然 Miguel Torres Sr. 是 Familia Torres 牙的两座酒庄，皆被视为永续酿酒行动的标竿。座落在世界各地的数家酒庄。其中智利与西班与国际酒庄气候行动的共同创办人，他负责掌管的总裁 Miguel 推行的 Torres & Earth 轻气候变化的影响。其目标是在公司的碳足迹、提高公众对此的行动意识，来减计划旨在透过减少 2030 六十，并在葡萄园到目的顾客的二氧化碳排放量减少百分之年前，将 2040 在波特酒界，年前成为零碳排的酒庄。 Symington Family Estates 会员。他们也是第一家获得放的承诺，他们已成为国际酒庄气候行动的申请最有份量的其中一家酒庄。为了实践对减少碳排是 B 高标准。牙公司，证明他们确实符合社会与环境绩效的最类企业认证的葡萄 Symington Family Estates 副总监 Rob Symington 验，需要个人、企业与政府共同迎接挑战。」表示：「气候变化是人类面临的一大考(4)CONCEPTLINKSOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 165

thetakinglead

引领潮流 The Executive Centre (TEC), Central Hong Kong’s itsworkspace,providerforemostofflexiblecontinuesdynamicgrowth. 166 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

高达的灵活办公空间市场，德事的市占率已使其业务得以成长茁壮。人士与业界领袖对高端商业环境的需求，德事具备先进的办公设施，能满足专业城市中为三万八千多名会员提供服务。地区成长最快速的经济体，在三十三座德事商务中心（德事）遍及亚太与中东在中环以及金钟等香港核心商业区 72% 香港市场的重视与投入。融中心开设最新办公据点，再次体现对。近期，德事在中环的友邦金该中心于 2021 年 12 事总经理十二个办公空间之一。德事的港澳台董中心十五楼正式开业，是德事在香港的月在友邦金融 Nadia Zhu 业办公的各个面向都能顺利开展。」旨在提供华丽与实用兼具的空间，让商金融中心办公空间采用全新现代设计，指出：「我们的友邦德事的长期合作伙伴 Fiona Hardie ID 新的内部装潢。，为这个办公空间打造出令人耳目一 Fiona 运用雅致的色调，以及 Aristo 间充溢温暖调性，展现流动性与动态感。尚氛围。柔和的曲线设计元素让办公空的镍金属等材料，营造出富现代感的时大理石、胡桃木和缎面质感 Fiona 会是一个更正式，但也更温馨的商务空表示：「中环友邦金融中心的德事 PRESENTED BY THE EXECUTIVE CENTRE (5)TECOFCOURTESY for the earth | TK | 167

Fiona Hardie ID, TEC’s long-standing partner, designed the striking interi ors of the Centre at AIA Central in sophisticated tones, making use of materials like aristo marble, walnut timber, and satin-finish nickel to create a stylishly modern look. The space’s warm ambiance is brought to life with softly curving design elements that provide fluidity and movement. “TEC at AIA Central will illuminate a more formal but welcoming corporate environment,” says Hardie, “which I hope will encourage people to embrace the return to the office.”

Opened in December 2021 on level 15, the space is one of TEC’s twelve in Hong Kong. “Our Centre at AIA Central embraces a brand-new contemporary design, with the aim of providing highly aesthetic and functional spaces to sup port all aspects of work,” says Nadia Zhu, TEC’s regional managing director of Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan.

SERVING MORE THAN thirty-eight thousand Members in thirty-three cities across the world’s fastest-growing economies in Asia-Pacific and the Middle East, The Executive Centre (TEC) offers the utmost in state-of-the-art office facilities to professionals and industry leaders looking for an advanced business environment where their organizations can thrive.

And with its already-dominant 72 percent share of the flexible-workspace market in Hong Kong’s core business districts of Central and Admiralty, The Executive Centre recently reaffirmed its commitment to the city by launching its newest location at AIA Central.

The new Centre adds more than two hundred and eighty workstations and nearly fifteen thousand square feet of workspace to TEC’s Hong Kong port folio focusing on Grade A and Premium buildings. “As companies worldwide are formulating new workplace strategies,” says Zhu, “TEC offers flexible options to embrace hybrid work without losing the rituals of a workplace that facilitate business success.” Among the new Centre’s options are an array of private

Along with the Centre at AIA Central, TEC continues its Hong Kong expansion with the February opening of the first phase of an additional location in Central at 28 Stanley Street. The majority of the building comprises TEC office spaces, with additional floors dedicated to coworking, meetings, events, and a lounge area. The Oolaa Café occupies the ground floor.

一万五千平方英尺。中心设有两百八十多个工作站，总面积近甲级与高级建筑为首选，而这间新的办公室。」间，我希望这能让大家更渴望回归办公德事于香港设立的办公空间，皆以 Nadia 专业最先进的网路通讯、全方位服务操作支援、头前展现完美形象。照明，柔和的暖白色光线能让与会者在镜室环境舒适、私隐度高，还设有正面打光求，新办公中心还设置视像会议室。会议高会员的办公体验。为满足日益增长的需的是提供一个舒适的休息与合作空间，提饱览维多利亚港的壮丽全景，此设计的目方案计划。公空间、会议室、活动场地以及各项企业有独立安全出入口的私人办公室、共享办业成功。」新办公中心的配备包含一系列设又不失工作场所的仪式感，可进而促进商提供灵活的选择以及具弹性的工作空间，业都在拟定新的工作环境策略，因此德事表示：「全球企办公空间休息区的窗户相当宽广，可办公空间的设备还包括会员休息区， IT 的即磨咖啡等服务。降式办公桌，以及提供由专业咖啡师制作候使用空间、无钥匙式安全门禁系统、升支援及基础设施、免费茶点、全天该中心的一大视觉焦点，是由 Timothy Oulton Studio 复制出的 NASA 成，内部空间以会议。太空舱的外壳由抛光不锈钢打造而德事的会员在顶级的隐密空间工作及举行这个「太空舱」作为奢华的休息室，能让量二十多座，同时也是在香港的第一座。波罗登月任务太空舱。这个复制品全球限阿 Tomahawk 骆驼皮、雪花石膏餐桌，以及一盏订制的 Odeon 吊灯组士丹利街空间，德事继续在香港拓点，其位于中环成，可见专属订制的巧思。除了位于中环友邦金融中心的办公 28 空间以及休息区域，地面层则为他楼层则为共享办公空间、会议室、活动该建筑的多数楼层为德事的办公空间，其号的首期营运已于二月展开。 Oolaa 咖计的领导者。」德事的创办人及行政总裁啡厅。「德事一直是全亚太地区办公空间设 Paul Salnikow 深感自豪。」会员提供无与伦比的最佳体验，对此我们表示：「我们持续革新，为 PRESENTED BY THE EXECUTIVE CENTRE (3)TECOFCOURTESY TEC at AIA Central features a flexible, contemporary design by Fiona Hardie ID. 位于友邦金融中心的德事商务中心由Fiona Hardie ID设计，空间灵动且富现代感。 168 | TK | for the earth

A spectacular focal point of the Centre is a replica of a NASA Apollo moon mission capsule created by Timothy Oulton Studio. One of just twenty-plus in the world and the first in Hong Kong, it serves as a luxury lounge, allowing TEC Members to work and hold meetings in sumptuous privacy. The capsule’s full-scale shell of polished stainless steel encloses a bespoke interior with tufted Tomahawk camel leather, an Alabaster dining table, and a customized Odeon pendant.

Amenities also include a Members’ Lounge, state-of-the-art connectivity, fullservice operational support, expert IT infrastructure and support, complimentary refreshments, 24/7 access, secure and keyless locking system, adjustable standing desks, and fresh coffee by a professional barista.

Breakout areas that feature expansive windows with sweeping views of Victoria Harbour are designed to encourage both downtime and collaboration, enhancing the office experience of Members. To support increased demand, the new Centre also offers call- and video-conferencing rooms that offer maximum comfort, minimum distraction, and built-in front lighting to provide soft, warm-white illumination for the perfect look.

offices with independent and secure entrances, open-plan coworking spaces, meeting rooms, event spaces, and enterprise solutions.

“TEC has always been the leader in commercial office design across APAC,” says Paul Salnikow, founder and CEO of TEC, “and we pride ourselves on constantly revamp ing to provide the absolute best experience for our Members.”

IN THE FIRST QUARTER OF 2022, The Executive Centre launched two expansions in Shanghai that offer all of the advanced facilities and amenities that TEC is known for. Mirae Asset Tower, Level 21, which opened in January, also fea tures easy nearby access to high-end malls, luxury hotels, convenience stores, ATMs, and excellent transport connections to the rest of the city. HSBC Building, opened in March, is located on Level 6 of the award-winning IFC Tower 1, designed by renowned architect César Pelli. The Centre’s contemporary interiors encapsulate the shimmer of the city’s night lights through the use of textured glass, marble, and gilded aluminum. Featuring ergonomic and functional furnishings, the flexible workspace updates the traditional concept of a corporate work environment to meet the needs of today’s executives.

2022 六楼，这栋大楼由著名建筑师提款机，以及能通往上海其他地区的良好交通连接。二十一楼，附近有便利的高级购物中心、豪华酒店、便利商店、自动先进基础设施与舒适环境。于一月开幕的办公空间位于未来资产大厦年第一季，德事在上海展开两项扩展计画，提供引以为傲的各种于三月开幕的商务中心位于国际金融中心一座内的汇丰银行大楼 César Pelli 需求。家具，颠覆传统思维中的企业工作环境，能完美满足当今高阶主管的夜色的闪耀光辉。这个灵活的办公空间备有符合人体工学和功能性的具当代风格，以理纹玻璃、大理石和镀金铝金属等材质，映照出上海设计。该中心的内部装潢极上海新据点 NEW SHANGHAIIN FOR THE EARTH | TK | 169

SUBSCRIBE$400 for 4 issues contact information companyaddressname name postal code emailphone faxcountrytitle Kindly return the completed form to: Email subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com Mail Tasting Kitchen Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong Tel +852 2116 1030 Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com Tasting Kitchen (TK) is a celebration of inspiring gourmet adventures, eloquent artistic expressions, and engaging cultural encounters. 170 | TK | FOR THE EARTH

闭上眼睛，放松下来…… 想象自己正置身于新西兰的青草牧场。这里气候温和、阳光充足、雨水充沛，牧场在自然的怀抱中四季繁茂、郁郁葱葱。我们心怀敬畏，保障动物福利，守护大自然的馈赠，可持续地为您呈现高品质的草饲红肉。草饲，天与地孕育的自然风味

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Amber 5 7/F,FrenchThe Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15号香港置地文华东方酒店7楼 Lunch: Dinner:12:00-16:0018:00-00:00 q +852 2132 0066 A Smart casual. Children aged 9 or above are welcome. B’hood 5 Café and Bar G/F, South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀么地道75号南洋中心地下32-35号 8:00-00:00 q +852 2380 2168 BluHouse 5 G/F,ItalianRosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道18 号Victoria Dockside香港瑰丽酒店地面层 11:30-22:30 q +852 3891 8732 Deng G Sichuan 邓记川菜 5 Sichuan cuisine 412-413, Level 4, K11 MUSEA, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道18 号K11 MUSEA 4楼412-413号铺 11:30-22:00 q +852 2545 3288 Bocchieri, 31, 97100 Ragusa – Localita Ragusa Ibla, Italy Lunch: Mon-Sat: 12:00-16:00 Dinner: Tue-Sat: 19:30-00:00 q +39 0932 651265 of Teppanyaki ShopJapanese103, 1/F, Sino Plaza, 255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 255-257号信和广场1楼103号 Lunch: Dinner:12:00-15:0018:00-22:00 q +852 2817 7767 Kam Lei Heen 金丽轩 5 Avenida Da Amizade, MacauLapaLevelChinese2, Artyzen GrandMacau, 956-1110 澳门友谊大马路956-1110号澳门雅辰酒店2楼 Lunch: Wed-Mon: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: Thu-Sun: 18:00-22:00 q +853 8793 3821 L’Enclume 5 CavendishWestern Street, Cartmel, Nr Grange over Sands, Cumbria, UK q +44 (0) 15395 36362 Man Ho Chinese Restaurant 万豪金殿 5 3/F,ChineseJWMarriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港金钟道88号太古广场香港 JW万豪酒店三楼 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-15:00 Sat-Sun: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 q +852 2810 8366 Ohm 5 Café and Bar 152 Yu Chau Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港深水埗汝州街152号地下 12:00-18:00 q +852 9665 5259 Quinary 5 56-58Bar Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷李活道56-58号地下 15:00-00:00 q +852 2851 3223 Roganic 5 UG08,WesternSino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道255号信和广场UG08号铺 Lunch: Tue-Fri: 12:00-14:00 (last ordering time) Dinner: Tue-Sun: 18:00-21:00 (last ordering time) q +852 2817 8383 Sichuan Moon 川江月 5 Sichuan Cuisine North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 宫北名店街地面层澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇 Thu-Sun: 18:00-23:00 q +853 8889 3663 A Casual elegant. Children aged 10 or above are welcome. The Aubrey 5 Japanese Izakaya 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road Central, Hong Kong 香港中环干诺道中 Cocktails:Dinner:12:00-14:3018:00-22:0012:00-23:30 2825 4001 Dining Room by BluHouse G/F,ItalianRosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 18 号Victoria Dockside香港瑰丽酒店地面层 Tue- Sun: 18:30-22:30 q +852 3891 8732 A Smart casual The Manor 雅舍 5 1/F,WesternThe St. Regis Macao, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, s/n, Cotai, Macau 澳门瑞吉酒店澳门路氹连贯公路澳门伦敦人 1楼 Continental breakfast buffet: Dinner:Lunch:07:00-10:3012:00-15:0018:00-23:00 q +853 8113 1300 Versa 5 TheWesternLittle Green Door, Station Road, Port Erin, Isle of Man Thu-Mon: Lunch: 10:00-15:00 Dinner: 17:00-21:00 q +44 7624 326349 yè shanghai 夜上海 5 702,ShanghaineseLevel7,K11 MUSEA, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道18 号K11 MUSEA 7楼702号铺 Lunch: Dinner:11:30-15:0018:00-22:00 q +852 2376 3322 Distribution list for the DGB Backsbergwineries: Hong Kong: Africa To Asia and Value Vigilantes Bellingham Hong Kong: Northeast Wines & Spirits / Wine’N’Things China & Macau: Summergate Boschendal Hong Kong & Macau: Omtis Fine China: FondWines Wine Franschhoek Cellar Hong Kong & Macau: China Resources Ng Fung Enterprise China: FSC Fine Wines Old Road Wine Co. Hong Kong & Macau: China Resources Ng Fung Enterprise

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