TK6 The Joy of Pastry by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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tasting kitchen #6 • mar 2013

Tin Hua CenTral MaCau

No Limits 创意无限

Written in the Stars 星级料理 The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙

starter

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei makes these wonderfully light and flaky layered pastries at Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon. Topped with a layer of almond paste, decorated with toasted flaked almonds and dusted with icing sugar, they conceal a center of dark, bitter chocolate and softly fragrant banana. Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger (面包烘焙师) 武井周彦（Norihiko Takei）制作的巧克力面包酥，十分轻软。内馅为黑苦巧克力、软绵芳香的香蕉，最上面涂抹杏仁酱，饰以烘烤片状杏仁及糖霜。

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march 2013

TasTe Culture

Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing, or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. www.austrianwine.com

editor’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

This is a sweet issue. Like a pâtisserie between two covers, it is M A R

stocked with tarts and cakes, bonbons,

2 0 1 3

•

J O Y

O F

t h e

chocolate cherries, pain aux amandes, fig beignets, edible stilettos, a macaron

I s s u e

# 6

P A s t R Y

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com

dessert kebab, and lots more – all the

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

crazy wonderful delicious things pastry chefs create to make us happy.

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Pastry work offers imaginative chefs tremendous freedom. Great pastry chefs find ways to use that

Mark Hammons

freedom to express themselves both with forms and flavors, honoring traditions or tweaking them, offering beautiful simplicity or wondrous complexity, while always remembering the most basic aim of their profession: sweet pleasure. The talented pastry chefs featured in this issue are all passionate about their work, and all motivated to bring joy to other people with their creations. As you flip through these pages, we think you’ll agree that they are succeeding, and brilliantly.

FOunDER GROuP MAnAGInG DIRECTOR & CO-PuBLISHER mhammons@igniteasia.com

Jenny Man GROuP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PuBLISHER jman@igniteasia.com

Jeff Hammons

Jean Alberti

EDITOR AT LARGE jhammons@macau.com

CHEF AT LARGE jalberti@macau.com

David Hartung

Alicia beebe Joey Cheang

Helene Wong

Enjoy!

ART DIRECTOR

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy

EDITORIAL COORDInATOR

CHInESE EDITOR

Kennis Yuen

Crystal Tai

PRODuCTIOn MAnAGER

EDITOR

Anita Leong

Mamie Chen Inara Sim Lucy Morgan

CIRCuLATIOn MAnAGER

Ivan Lam

COnTRIBuTInG WRITERS

ACCOunTAnT

group ADverTISIng sales@igniteasia.com

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Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl river Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

The elegant pastries on the cover were made by Mandarin Oriental Macau Executive Pastry Chef Sébastien Bérnis.

tasting kitchen #6 • mar 2013

on our cover

封面如此雅致的糕点是由澳门文华东方酒店饼房行政总厨鲍思培精心制作。 e

t h e j o y o f pa s t ry

b. Rose Petal Macarons 玫瑰蛋白杏仁饼 c. Coconut Rum Cake 椰子冧酒蛋糕

g i

a. Vanilla Mango Lollipops 云尼拿芒果棒棒糖

d. Hazelnut Choux 榛子泡芙 e. Jasmine Mousse 茉莉花慕丝 f.

Guanaja Chocolate Tartlet 巧克力挞

g. Red Berry Tartlet 红莓挞 h. Mango and Marshmallow 芒果棉花糖 Tin Hua mar 2013

CenTral MaCau

No Limits 无限创意

Written in the Stars 星级料理 The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙

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january 2013

Pistachio Macarons 开心果蛋白杏仁饼

Raspberry Financiers 红桑子杏仁饼

Photograph by David Hartung

Hong Kong offICe

MACAu offICe

Stanley Lau

gerard William Whitty

ASST. SALES DIRECTOR +852 9753 0087 slau@igniteasia.com

ASST. SALES DIRECTOR +853 6279 2238 gwhitty@igniteasia.com

SubSCrIpTIonS subscriptions@igniteasia.com prInTIng Emerald Data Processing and Printing Company Limited 3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building 9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

A member of Ignite Media Group (Hong Kong) Limited

contents T A S T I N G N E W S 10-13 Clown Cakes 14 • Love at First Sip 16 • Perfect Balance 18 • Written in the Stars 20 • The Happiness of Kafka 24 The Sweet Life 26 • Free Spirit 30 • Cold Hands, Warm Heart 32 • The Man in the Mira 34 • No Limits 36 The Joy of Pastry 42 • Jasmine Tea Chocolate Tropézienne 52 • Cake Karma 56 • Discreet Delight 60 • The Way of Merlot 62 R E S T A u R A N T L I S T I N G S 66 • W h E R E T o f I N d T K 70 •

d E S S E R T 72

16 18

20 26

30/32

56 8

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60 62

tasting news

美味加倍佳

Double the Pleasure To complement the premium cheese, bread and wine which they’re known for, Classified has begun offering a new lineup of pastries at each of its Hong Kong cafes. There are new sweet and savory choices to tempt every taste bud: butter croissants, pain aux raisins, apricot Danish, and matchstick-thin chocolate allumettes. Brittany butter and hand-picked berries are some of the quality ingredients that the Classified bakers transform into delicious pastry pleasure. If the expanded selection makes choosing difficult, start with a classic raspberry and custard Danish, and go from there. 为搭配店内著名的顶级芝士、面包与美酒， Classified 已在香港各分店推出一系列甜点，包括奶油牛角包、欧式葡萄面包、杏桃丹麦酥等等来满足您的味蕾。Classified 的烘焙师傅向来擅长将高级食材转化为美

Classified Shop 1, G/F, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环苏豪荷李活道 108 号地下 q +852 2525 3454

味甜点，如果选择太多让您眼花撩乱，建议您先尝经典的覆盆子卡士达丹麦酥吧。

香港的流言「啡」语

Buzzed in Hong Kong The people behind Hong Kong’s popular caffé Habitū have recently opened Coffee Academïcs. Don’t be put off by that odd, umlauted “i” – the pleasures at the flagship café in Causeway Bay are straightforward, and addictive: great fresh-roasted coffee; an open, spacious interior with high ceilings and beautiful brick walls; and a happening, coffee-junkies vibe. 在香港大红大紫的 caffè HABITU 最近在铜锣湾开设了咖啡概念品 The Coffee Academïcs No. 38, Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾耀华街 38 号地下 q +852 2156 0313

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牌 The Coffee Academïcs 旗舰店。这里的顶级新鲜烘焙咖啡将为您带来令人难以自拔的愉悦体验！店内宽敞开放，高挑的天花板与美丽的红砖墙，来这里当个最时尚的咖啡瘾君子吧。

东西交融新滋味

East West Sweets With his East-meets-West treats, Chef Kelvin Lai has brought pastry fame to the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin.

Sha Tin 18 沙田 18

Mixing Chinese ingredients into typi-

4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong 香港新界沙田泽祥街 18 号香港沙田凯悦酒店 4 楼

cally Western dishes, Lai’s dishes include Chinese preserved bean curd cheesecake, caramelized walnut sesame rolls with plum sauce, and kumquat crème brûlée. His creativity, artistry and attention to

香港沙田凯悦酒店饼房行政主厨赖耀辉师

士蛋糕、核桃芝麻卷黄梅汁及柑橘法式炖

detail ensure that the pastries served at

傅融合东方与西方食材，将甜点带至前所

蛋。他的创意性、艺术性与对细节一丝不

Sha Tin 18 are as delicious and beautiful

未有的崭新境界。赖师傅在经典西式料理

苟的坚持，让沙田 18 的糕点永远新颖、美

as they are inventive.

里使用中式食材的作品众多，包括腐乳芝

味、令人惊艳。

糕饼界之星

Happy Marriage Pastry Gems is aptly named: this new gem of a pastry shop, located in the lobby of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, features the gorgeously realized cakes, pastries, chocolates and viennoiserie of Executive Pastry Chef Richard Long and his team. “A good dessert should have three elements,” says Richard. “Temperature, texture and flavor. The beauty of pastry is the marriage of these things.” In Chef Long’s desserts, the marriage of these elements is a beautiful, deeply happy one. Pastry Gems 店如其名。这颗糕饼界的闪亮新星，位于香港丽思卡尔顿酒店大堂，由行政糕点总厨骆育文带领他的专业团队，精心烹调一系列精致的蛋糕、面包、巧克力与点心。骆师傅说：「好的糕点必须具备三要素：温度、质感、风味，缺一不可。」骆师傅出品的糕点既窝心又美观，果真名不虚传。 Pastry Gems Mango Delight 芒果蛋糕

9F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙柯士甸道西 1 号环球贸易广场 , 香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 9 楼 march 2013

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tasting news

蛋挞之王

King of Tarts It’s not hard to find a good egg tart in Macau. For a great egg tart, make the trip to Coloane and pay a visit to Lord Stow’s. Started as a modest shop on the village square back in the 1980’s by Andrew Stow, an Englishman, Lord Stow’s has been setting a wickedly delicious standard for egg tarts for more than two decades. Lord Stow General Manager Eileen Stow describes her late brother’s egg

在澳门要找到好吃的蛋挞不难，但要吃到

蛋挞的完美结合。「内馅香醇浓厚，我哥哥

tart recipe as a marriage between the

让您齿颊留香，就一定得到路环的安德鲁

用 wibbly wobbly 形容它，而酥皮的厚度也

traditional Portuguese pasteis de nata

饼店。这家饼店于 1980 年代由英国人安德

恰到好处，一咬下去，内馅与酥皮便在口

and an English custard tart. “The filling is

鲁创建，原本仅是村庄广场边一家不起眼

里平衡地化开，好吃得不得了。」

very rich – my brother called it the ‘wibbly

的小店，却在过去 20 年间，为蛋挞设下令

wobbly’ filling – and the pastry has just

人望尘莫及的高标准。

the right thickness to make that perfect delicious balance when you bite in.”

安德鲁饼店总经理 Eileen Stow 表示，他已故哥哥的蛋挞食谱是传统葡式和英式

Lord Stow’s Bakery 安德鲁饼店 1 Rua da Tassara, Coloane Town Square Macau 澳门路环市区市中心挞沙街 1 号地下

「食」尚精品

These Choos Weren’t Made for Walking From April 2 until May 5, 2013, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s MO Bar will be featuring “Afternoon Tea with Jimmy Choo,” a tea set featuring pink high heels, glam leopard print clutch bags and other fashionable items – all edible. “Jimmy Choo’s sexy stiletto heels, glamorous designs, great sense of style and color, and exceptional Italian craftsmanship serve as excellent inspiration for our culinary team,” says Executive Chef Sidney Schutte. 从 2013 年 4 月 2 日至 5 月 5 日，香港置地文华东方酒店 MO Bar 将隆重推出「与 Jimmy Choo 共进下午茶」活动。下午茶餐点包括粉红高跟鞋、华丽豹纹手提包及其他时尚精品。行政总厨 Sidney Schutte 表示：「 Jimmy Choo 出众的设计、风格与配色，

MO Bar G/F,

Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 15 Queen’s Road, Central 香港中环皇后大道中 15 号置地文华东方酒店大堂

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march 2013

加上卓越超群的意大利工艺，全都是我们团队的创作灵感来源。」

来一场甜蜜的相遇吧！

Sweet Spot

Mango Yogurt Mochi 芒果乳酪糯米糍

Green Tea Mochi 抹茶糯米糍

Hokkaido Milk Pudding Puff 北海道牛奶布丁芭芙

Follow the vanilla-scented air across Tastes of Asia at Galaxy Macau™ to the irresistible offerings at a trio of Japanese-style sweet shops. The shelves at Mochi Sweets are lined with delicious, bite-sized temptation. At Mazāzu Crepe, the thin, delicate pancakes are folded and interleaved with sweet or savory fillings. The crust of one of Choux Crème’s double chocolate puffs, made from shards of baked dark chocolate, gives way to a sweet center of cocoa cream. Freshly made using the finest ingrediCrispy Chocolate Puff 朱古力脆皮芭芙

ents imported from Japan, these popular, unique snacks make a perfect quick lunch or sweet treat. No reservations required. 一走进「澳門银河 ™」综合渡假城的亚洲美食坊，浓郁的香草香气扑鼻而来，然后你就会发现这三家令人难以抗拒的日式甜品店。「摩提工房」(Mochi Sweets) 店里的架上陈列着小巧可爱、看来相当可口的糯米糍。「妈咪の可丽芙」(Mazāzu Crepe) 店中陈列着精致薄烤饼，中间是美味的馅料。至于「西树工房」(Choux Crème) 的双倍巧克力芭芙，外层铺满烘焙过的黑巧克力，当中是香甜的可可酱。使用日本进口的最佳原料现做，这些甜点可以当作午餐轻食，也可以当下午茶享用。无須事先订位。 Tastes of Asia 亞洲美食坊 G43, G/F, Galaxy Macau™「澳門银河 ™」综合渡假城地下一楼 G43 march 2013

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inspired living

H www.Alessi.com

小丑蛋糕架

clown cakes

Alessi’s whimsical “Fatman” folding cake stand is a delightful table piece

1960 年代，折叠蛋糕架曾是 Alessi 数一数二的畅销商品，但过没多久便不再流行。就像营运长 Alessio Alessi 说的：「然后就销声匿迹了。」自 70 年代起，Alessi 产品目录上就未再出现蛋糕架的踪迹。最近 Alessi 重回这个曾经熟悉的领域，

In the 1960s, folding cake stands were

Wanders has found a delightful way to

one of Alessi’s best-selling categories.

express his fascination with the circus and

推出玩心十足的全新设计，宣告艺术蛋糕

“Then we lost it,” says Managing Director

its performers.

架重回市场。荷兰设计师 Marcel Wanders

Alessio Alessi. After falling out of fash-

Tubby and round when viewed head

ion, cake stands were removed from the

on, the folded Fatman looks flat and

重新演绎 60 年代经典「art. 898」设计系

Alessi catalog from the 70s onwards.

skinny when seen from the side, an effect

列蛋糕架，打造「Fatman」致敬版。

融入自己热爱的马戏团及马戏表演者元素，

Now they are back, and Alessi has

reminiscent of funhouse mirrors. And

retaken the territory in typically playful

then a turn of the clown’s ruffle opens the

侧看细薄一片，有种照着游乐园哈哈镜的

style. With his interpretation of the

multiple tiers of the cake stand and sets

童趣。打开小丑皱折领口时则会出现多层

company’s famous “art.898” cake stand

the stage for the true stars of the show –

蛋糕架，可与餐桌上的主角「糕点」相互

from the 60s, Dutch designer Marcel

the pastries.

映衬。

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march 2013

「Fatman」折合时正面看来浑圆可爱，

SAVOR THE PERFECT COMBINATION OF WEST AND EAST THROUGH SING YIN FOIE GRAS SETS

Blend Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich tastes with a pinch of Chinese flavors! From now to April 30, take pleasure in hearty recipes of Foie Gras from all around the world at Sing Yin Cantonese Dining with unique touches of Chef Bryan Lee. Highlights include Baked Conch Stuffed with Bulgarian Foie Gras and Mild Curry Fragrance and Marinated Cantonese five spice Elsass Foie Gras. Reservations and enquiries: contact singyin.hk@whotels.com / 3717 2848

1/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Station, Kowloon

inspired living

一饮钟情

love at first sip

Coffee romantics sometimes resist the idea of drinking java made by a capsuleeating coffee robot. That is, until they’ve met Nespresso’s passion red Lattissima+.

The seduction happens fast. Nespresso’s

Lattissima+ 胶囊咖啡机一用就上手，是一

Lattissima+ is a compact, sexily designed

款设计精美、一体成形的咖啡机，并提供

machine. A tempting selection of green-

多款有机咖啡豆混合而成的口味。所有不

sourced coffee blends are available, all

同颜色的咖啡胶囊一律真空包装。放一颗

kept fresh in conveniently color-coded,

进去，再按下按键，一杯杯盖着丝绒般奶

vacuum-sealed capsules. Slip one in,

泡的意式浓缩咖啡、卡布奇诺、拿铁或淡

and at the touch of a single button the

式意式咖啡就完成了，完美程度就连专业

Lattissima+ brews a cup of espresso,

咖啡师也会为之赞叹。这一切只需一分钟

cappuccino, latte macchiato, or lungo,

就能办到。只要你不怕从此爱上它 , 啜一

laying down blankets of milk with velvety

口吧 ! 假如你还没领略过 Lattissima+ 的魅

froth that would make a barista proud. All

力，现在正是时候。

that takes about one minute. Have a sip (but not if you’re afraid of commitment). If you haven’t already succumbed, you will now.

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march 2013

H www.nespresso.com

Sponsored Feature

Saffron Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungjaroenkijkul

完美平衡点

perfect balance Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron strikes a satisfying balance with classic and contemporary Thai cuisine

For SaFFron’S CheF de CuiSine, Gina Pungjaroenkijkul, life is all about balance. Forget work-life balance, because that’s out of the question for any chef de cuisine worth her salt. And Chef Gina is definitely worth her salt – and her sugar, and her lime juice, and her chilies too. What she really means is the careful balance of fundamental flavors and aromas that define Thai cuisine. “Balance makes a dish tastier,” she explains. “In a salad, we have three flavors in the sauce. The first must be sour, followed by salty and sweet. For curry, a little salty and not too sweet. In tom yum, we mix sour and salty, not too sweet – the

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march 2013

sweetness comes from the prawns.” Chef Gina’s expertise derives from a deep understanding of her ingredients – how the tiger prawns in Saffron’s signature tom yum goong differ, for example, from the river prawns in the tom yum goong mae nam – and her ability to make incremental adjustments to accommodate the nuanced differences they bring in flavor, aroma and color. With Saffron’s new Crustacean Promotion menu, which is available all through March, Chef Gina balances familiar favorites with inventive new dishes she is eager to introduce to diners. The menu starts with the restaurant’s ever popular

seafood platter on ice: sea whelk, cherry stone clams, New Zealand mussels, and Hokkaido scallops. Among the choices for the main course are a rich, wok-fried lobster with oyster sauce, and one of Chef Gina’s creative original dishes: a mussels and pineapple curry with Kaffir lime, served in half a pineapple shell. “Our curry starts with fresh ingredients. And then we have to take time to cook and reduce it. Only when you take enough time can the flavor come out,” she says. “I want people to try this dish!” If Chef Gina is recommending it, expect a lively, delicious and perfectly balanced medley of flavors.



Seafood platter of sea whelk, cherry stone clams, New Zealand mussels, and Hokkaido scallops 有海螺、石蛤、新西兰青口、及北海道扇贝的海皇拼盘



对「尚坊」的厨师长 Gina Pungjaroenkijkul 而言，生活在于平衡。然而工作和生活间的平衡却另当别论，因为这对任何称职的厨师长而言是可望不可及。Gina 不仅称职，她精湛的厨艺更完美呈现出泰式料理酸、甜、辣多层次的味道。她认为平衡就是泰式料理的基本味道和各式香草细腻微妙的平衡感。她解释道：「平衡感让一道菜更美味。泰式色拉的淋酱有三种味道 : 首先是酸味，然后是咸味和甜味。咖喱要略咸，不能太甜。酸辣汤则融合了酸味和咸味，也不能太甜。甜味完全来自鲜虾的自然甘甜。」 Gina 的厨艺专长源自对所用食材深刻的了解 – 例如该餐厅的招牌菜鲜虾酸辣汤中所用的虎虾，就不同于湄南酸辣汤中

所用的河虾 – 以及依照食材在色香味上所带来的细微差别增减用量的能力。随着该餐厅新推出了三月份贝壳类海鲜当季菜单，Gina 的新创菜色中包括用最受欢迎的水产烹调出鲜美平衡的口味。菜单的前菜是该餐厅一直广受欢迎的海鲜拼盘：有海螺、石蛤、新西兰青口、及北海道扇贝。主菜的选择包括浓郁的蚝油锅炒龙虾和 Gina 的一道原创料理：盛在切半挖空菠萝内的菠萝咖喱烩青口。她表示：「我们的咖喱用新鲜食材细熬慢炖到浓缩入味。炖煮的时间一定要够久，味道才会出来。希望客人能够试试这道菜！」如果是厨师长 Gina 推荐的菜色，滋味绝对会丰富、和谐而鲜美！

 New Zealand mussels with traditional pineapple curry 菠萝咖喱烩青口

 Wok-fried lobster with cashews, sweet chili paste and oyster sauce 酱爆龙虾

Saffron 尚坊 G/F,

Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Coloane-Taipa 路氹蓮花海濱大馬路澳門悅榕莊地下 G40 5 Thai q +853 8883 6061 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 MOP 151- 300 A Casual

march 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

星級料理

written in the stars At Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, Chef Vincent Thierry and the Caprice team deliver world class cuisine through continual growth and innovation

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march 2013

Raw langoustine cannelloni with marinated salmon and Sologne caviar sits atop chilled lemon grass jelly and is garnished with imported herbs and vegetables. 香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾、香茅啫喱配特级鱼子酱，底下饰以沁凉的香茅冻、进口香草及蔬菜。

Vincent thierry had just completed a twoyear apprenticeship in the south of France and was looking for a permanent position. His older brother, already a chef in Paris, handed him a book full of restaurant names and addresses to use as a reference. It was a Michelin Guide. Vincent sent out a wave of letters, mostly to two- and three-star restaurants, though at the time, he says, “I didn’t even know what that meant.” One of the first responses was from then three-star Restaurant Taillevent in Paris. “That was very important for me.” Thriving on the challenge of learning and improving, Vincent worked in a series of top-notch kitchens. Each move was made with purpose. At places ranging from a strict, disciplined “yes Chef!” kitchen to a smaller, family-run restaurant, Vincent experienced different management styles and learned new cooking techniques. “You have to move to catch style and experience from many different chefs. You find different techniques. It’s what makes you stronger. And that is very important for your career,” Vincent explains. “Your bag is never full, but when it starts to be full, you are ready to try on your own.” Years later, Chef Vincent’s resume reads like a version of the Michelin Guide he once used as a phonebook, and he now helms the three-star Caprice, one of the most highly regarded French restaurants in the world. Vincent’s refined approach emphasizes top quality ingredients, taste, innovation and a sincere appreciation for the contributions made by his team. Caprice’s langoustine cannelloni is a perfect example. Vincent starts with raw shellfish as the central ingredient. “You have to push yourself to be creative. It’s art. It’s funny – you never know where an idea might come from. Sometimes it’s a book I’m reading. Or it might be the shape of a pillow I see.” As he layers in other ingredients, Vincent is always thinking about taste. “For me, taste is first, and you can’t get great taste without great starting products.” He uses

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march 2013

Bresse pigeon wrapped and baked with foie gras, Périgord black truffle, Swiss chard and puff pastry, accompanied by conchiglioni stuffed with Swiss chard and served with S. Pellegrino sparkling water.

mostly imported, seasonal ingredients: imported, to ensure consistency in quality and flavor, something smaller local farms cannot guarantee in quantity; and seasonal, for the freshest possible products. “I’m definitely fighting to serve products in season. When the season finishes, I stop.” The presentation of the langoustine and salmon as cannelloni, with the delicately placed vegetable garnish, is a team effort. “Alone, I am nothing,” says Vincent. “I can serve six people, maybe. But I cannot serve sixty people lunch and dinner. It’s nonstop: prepare, send to the customer, prepare, send, create. Also when you start the decoration, the plate needs a lot of small hands.” It is this mutual respect between head chef and team that has led to a remarkable staff retention rate, surely a factor in the restaurant’s eight-year success. “Hong Kong

酥皮乳鸽酿鸭肝伴黑松露菌、再加上当中夹有瑞士白菜的大贝壳螺形意大利面，搭配意大利圣培露含气矿泉水。

customers are very tough. They push you to be better. If we’re still here, it’s because every day we grow as a team.” Learn more about San Pellegrino at www.jebsenfinewines.com.

Caprice Chef Vincent Thierry

当 Vincent Thierry 刚在法国南部结束为期两年的餐饮专科，他哥哥已经在巴黎一家餐厅当厨师。当时，哥哥给了他一本米其林指南，他便照着上头的地址寄出许多封应征信，多半是两星或三星的餐厅。最先回复的包括巴黎一家三星餐厅 Taillevent。「收到他们的回复，对我来说意义重大。」于是就此经历了他一连串的挑战与成长。之后他陆续在几家知名的餐厅中历练。他从不盲目换工作，每次跳槽都有特定的目的。他待过管理严格的厨房 ( 在那里你只能回答：「是！主厨。」) ；也待过像个家庭般温馨的小餐厅，并且从中体验不同的管理风格，学会许多新的烹饪技巧。 Vincent 进一步说明：「一名厨师必须跟其他不同的厨师学习，累积经验，培养风格。唯有这样，你才能变得更强，才能拓展自己的生涯。」他又说：「学习是没有止尽的，不过当你发现好像已经学得差不多时，就表示你可以开始独立了。」数年后，许多米其林餐厅都洋洋洒洒列在 Vincent 的履历上，跟他当年第一次拿到的米其林指南差不多。现在他在全球首屈一指的三星级法国餐厅 Caprice 当主厨。重视食材质量、着重品味、敢于革新、由衷赏识下属的付出，均塑造了他今日的成功。香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾就是个极好的例子。Vincent 选择生的贝壳类当作主要食材。「你得激励自己更有创意，烹饪是门艺术。有趣的是，你永远不知道想法是从哪冒出来的，可能来自我在读的一本书，也可能是因为看到一个枕头的形状。」再来是放入其他食材，他对口味十分看重：「若不慎选食材，就不可能做出好味道的料理。」为了确保质量及风味不变，他大多使用进口最新鲜的当季食材。「我坚持只供应当季食物。」用龙虾及三文鱼做肉卷，再一一摆放蔬菜装饰，要细致完美，便需要通力合作。 Vincent 说：「光靠我一人是办不到的。或许我可以服务六个客人，但我不可能服务六十位午、晚餐的客人。」正是主厨与团队之间的互相尊重，人员甚少流动，也带来这家餐厅八年的荣景。「香港的客人很挑剔，推动着你更臻完美。如果我们能长久留在这里，是因为我们的团队每天都在进步。」 march 2013

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tasting notes

卡夫卡的幸福

the happiness of kafka Local couple bring their love of pastry, coffee, and travel home to Macau

Pastry Chef Nicole Lei 糕点主厨李润怡

Moleskine notebooks line the walls of Kafka Sweets and Gourmandises, one of Macau’s newest and coolest cafes, in homage to the Czech author for whom the café is named. “Kafka is my favorite author,” says coowner Jerry Lei. “I spent a lot of time in Prague, surrounded by his work. In Macau, the name of the street where Kafka is located means ‘Prague’ in Chinese – destiny.” During a long stay in Europe, while barista Jerry was exploring the coffee culture, his wife Nicole was perfecting her pastry skills at Cordon Bleu. “I fell in love with pastry in Paris,” she says. Many of Nicole’s pastry creations are inspired by the couple’s travels. Her delicious and delightfully bright cupcakes all have evocative names. The couple loves Burgundy wine, so Nicole created “The Scent of Burgundy,” which uses green apple and blackcurrant to capture the rich flavor and aroma of a fine Burgundy. “In the Mood of Montmarte” is a memory made of hazelnut and crème brûlée. “Dessert makes people happy,” says Nicole. “And that makes me happy.”

在一间澳门新颖、时尚且为了向捷克作家致敬而命名的卡夫卡咖啡厅（ Kafka Sweets and Gourmandises），上半部墙面布满 Moleskine 笔记本的装饰。「卡夫卡是我最喜欢的作家，」店主之一的 Jerry Lei 说。「我在布拉格待了很长的时间，沈浸在他的作品中。而在澳门的店也恰好位于布拉格街上，真是命中注定。」旅居欧洲的日子里，身为咖啡师的 Jerry 钻研咖啡文化，而太太 Nicole 则在蓝带国际烹饪学院精进制作糕点的技术。她说：「我在巴黎爱上了糕点。」许多 Nicole 的糕点创意源自夫妻俩的旅行经验。她美味得令人欣喜的杯子蛋糕皆取了极富意象的名字。由于夫妻俩热爱勃根地红酒，Nicole 便以苹果和黑醋栗呈现红酒的风味与香气，创作出一款名为「勃根地滋味」的甜点。「蒙马特心情」则是以榛果和蛋奶油焦糖来勾勒出他们的回忆。「甜点会让人感到幸福，」Nicole 说「也会让我感到幸福。」

Caramel Honey To

ast 焦糖蜂蜜吐司

ABOVE Top Row (L-R): Le Petit Prince, Tsujiri, and Waltz for Raspberry Bottom Row: Sweet Dating, The Scent of Burgundy, and In the Mood of Montmartre 上排（由左至右）：小王子、都路理、覆盆子圆舞曲下排：甜蜜约会、勃根地滋味、蒙马特心情

march 2013

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march 2013

kitchen conversations

甜蜜的糕点人生

the sweet life In addition to his work as Pastry Chef at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, Grégoire Michaud maintains an always curious and insightful pastry blog, and is the author of a series of engaging cookbooks, including one with an essential pastry maxim as its title: Never Skip Dessert. Whether he is cooking, writing or talking pastry, the love and enthusiasm Chef Grégoire has for his work always shines through. Tasting Kitchen spoke with him recently about the pastry life. Grégoire Michaud (闵言乐) 身分可多了，除了是香港四季酒店的糕点主厨外，也撰写博客，经常在上面发表有趣又发人深省的看法，还出版了一系列十分有意思的烹饪书，其中一本便以一句经典名言Never Skip Dessert当作书名，中文书名为「法式甜品教室」。无论是做甜点、写甜点、或谈甜点， Grégoire对工作的热爱总是展露无遗。Tasting Kitchen最近前去访问他，请他谈谈甜点人生。

What makes pastry chefs special? Do you need a certain kind of personality to succeed with pastry? I always say pastry chefs are crazy, because we always need to think outside – never mind the box, but outside of everything. Everyday it is challenging, and if you don’t have these hints of craziness you will always stay stuck in the same area of things you do. If you run a restaurant for ten years, you need to have a lot of resources in your head to keep coming up with new things. I think what makes a good pastry chef are his vision and principles more than anything else. It means you believe in something. You follow through and keep true to yourself. You need to be extremely passionate. If you are not passionate, you might as well stay home … because it is too tough. You sacrifice a lot of your life, you are here when people are enjoying parties, you are working, and not many people will invite you to eat at their homes because you are a chef – they are always scared, so you end up in restaurants. The hours are worse than for a savory chef: we do breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and then dinner. The dessert is always the last thing to go on the dinner table, so we are always the last ones here. You see your family less than other people, so it’s commitment and passion that makes us move.

你认为甜点师傅有什么与众不同的地方吗？是否需要特定的个性才能做好甜点呢？我常说甜点师傅总有点疯狂，因为我们必须跳出框框。每天都是新的挑战，若你没有一点疯狂因子的话，你就会一成不变。假如你经营一家餐厅达十年之久，你脑子里得有源源不绝的想法，才能让餐厅推陈出新。我认为优秀的甜点师傅最重要的是有远见、有原则，也就是你必须具有信念，一以贯之，只做自己认为对的事。同时甜点师傅还必须充满热情，因为做甜点真的很辛苦，你得牺牲许多时间，大家开心参加派对时，你总是待在厨房；此外很少人会请你去他家用餐，毕竟你是个厨师，他们多少有点忌惮；而且我们比一般风味料理的厨师还辛苦，要做早、中、晚餐，外加下午茶。甜点又总是最后一道上来，因此我们都是待到最晚的一群。你没什么时间跟家人相处，是执着与热情支持我们继续做下去。做甜点跟做其他风味料理有何不同？这两种不同的工作是如何互相影响的？对我们来说，材料跟味道最重要。我们负责设计，因为这是我们的强项：设计、布置、摆放，让一切更有型，我发现其他菜色都会从我们的设计当中得到启发。比方说，甜点一向以长条方式摆放，一侧缀以三个小装饰，现在你会发现其他风味料理也是一样。这种影响是互相的。目前把

march 2013

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kitchen conversations

How is pastry work different from savory cooking? How do the two sides of the kitchen influence each other? For us it’s all about the ingredients and the flavor, and it’s the same for them – we all want to make delicious food. We come up with designs, because that is probably what we do best: designing, layout, creating shapes, and I see a lot of savory food inspired from that. For example, a long rectangle with three things on the side – that’s very common in desserts, and now you are seeing it in savory food too. The crossover goes both ways. At the moment there is quite a trend with using vegetables in dessert – oil infused with herbs, which I like to use, maybe some techniques to cream vegetables. It’s not something you do every day, but it’s very interesting to incorporate those things into dessert. You see parsnip, green peas, arugula and herbs coming into desserts. I’m a fan of using infused oil with herbs – it brings a great flavor contrast to a dish. I like essential oils, different flavors, like sandalwood or maybe pine tree. Do pastry chefs experience a greater sense of freedom, and with that freedom, extra pressure to be inventive? The ingredients we work with are more versatile compared with savory chefs. A slice of beef or a steak is very much what it is, but we can work with elements like chocolate or sugar and we can shape and sculpt them, so in terms of design and layout we have more freedom to play. Again, I think this comes back to your style and your beliefs. As you grow, you read a lot of books and magazines, you get inspired by other people, and then at some point you become your own self with your own products and dishes. The freedom you take is your own. If you want to go insane on the plate, you can. We have a lot of possibilities, but still, it has to make sense to the people who are eating. I like to keep things authentic, rustic and classic. Which ingredients are your current favorites?

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My favorite ingredients to work with are fresh ingredients. I love chocolate too, but I really like the fruits and herbs and flowers of the moment, whatever is in season. I think this is your playground, you have the ingredients and you are free to play with them however you want to. I think if you have good quality ingredients then you are halfway there. We have some great figs from an organic farm here, and you don’t have to do much with them, they already taste so good. You just tweak a little and you are there – it’s simple. Does the need for precision and consistency in a pastry kitchen ever inhibit your creativity? Everyone in pastry has a ruler in his pocket, because everything has to be

square and precise. Everything is consistent and clean. If you have a mountain of cake, layers that are all different shapes and thicknesses – that’s not appealing. But when it comes to plating the dessert, I think this is where you can play. Pastry can be a beautiful art. What is the most satisfying aspect of the pastry life? Making life sweeter for people brings fabulous rewards. We create moments. We spend hours preparing people’s dreams and within minutes, it all disappears into their stomachs. Yet these moments we create mean everything to us. Every time we make someone smile, we feel like we’ve won, we feel like we’ve made it, and we are proud.

Fig Beignet: organic figs in batter, dipped in icing sugar with frozen lemon yogurt and blackcurrant coulis. 无花果酥：有机无花果、包上糖霜、冰柠檬优乳，黑醋栗汁点缀。

蔬菜纳入甜点已开始流行，像是草本浸泡油（用各式香草浸泡在食油中以取其芬芳），这也是我喜欢的做法，或是一些将蔬菜做成奶油的技巧。还有像是防风草、豆类、做色拉的芝麻菜以及各种香草都可以加到甜点中。我很爱用草本浸泡油，可以带出别的食材的原味。精华油我也喜欢，像是白檀或松树，香气都很独特。

发的人，然后在某一个时点上，你变成今天的自己，做出只有你才会做的食物。这份自由是在你自己手上。假如你想加点疯狂创意，那也由得你。我们可以尽情发挥，不过最后还是要考虑到吃的客人，不能让他们觉得太莫名其妙。我喜欢保留食物真正的风味，那是最质朴的经典原味。

甜点师傅是否比较自由，也因为如此更有开发创意的压力？跟一般风味料理厨师比起来，我们要处理的材料是比较多变的。一片牛肉或牛排就是那样，但我们用的材料包括巧克力或糖，会在制作过程中给它们塑型；也就是如果以设计的角度来看，我们有较大挥洒的空间。当然我想这又回到了一个人的风格跟信念。你在成长过程中，读了许多书跟杂志，也认识一些对你有启

你目前最喜欢用什么食材？我最喜欢用新鲜材料做东西。我很爱巧克力，也喜欢随季节选用当季水果、草本植物跟花卉。我认为厨房就是游乐场，你手边有材料，可以自由搭配，做出你想要的东西来。我觉得食材好就成功了一半。我们跟本地一家有机农场合作，这家农场生产很好的无花果，风味极佳，无须再多雕饰。只要拧几下，摆成你要的样子就行了，非常简单。

甜点厨房要求准确、一致，这会限制你的创意吗？每个做甜点的人口袋里都有一把尺，因为你要端出来的东西一丝一毫也马虎不得，必须妥贴端正，保持干净，不能前后不一。举例来说，你做一个多层大蛋糕，每一层的厚度跟形状都不一样，这样就会很不好看。但如何把甜点放在盘子上，我想就是你玩创意的时候。甜点是非常美丽的艺术。你认为当甜点师傅最棒的一点是什么？让客人因为吃甜点变得愉快，就是最棒的报酬了。我们创造美妙时刻，花上几小时替客人圆梦，但这些美味甜点不到几分钟就进了客人的胃。然而短暂的美妙时刻对我们来说意义非凡。每一次看到客人的微笑，我们就觉得又赢了一次，我们办到了！因此为自己感到骄傲。 march 2013

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自由灵魂

free spirit

Chef Pâtissier Tadashi Nakamura combines executive rigor with creative artistry

Tadashi Nakamura, Chef Pâtissier at Hong Kong’s three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, fell in love with French pastries as a young boy, while shopping with his mother in his native Japan. “I couldn’t be a businessman and work in an office. I don’t like to wear a necktie,” he laughs. “So I trained as a pastry chef.” Chef Nakamura may not wear a necktie, but he is an executive. He takes command of the kitchen seriously, insisting on exceptional quality ingredients, commitment from his team, and a rigorous approach to pastry. “Every day we have to do the same job, but every day is a challenge. It’s not easy just because we have done it before.” He has a knack for knowing how to combine

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march 2013

organization and creativity. “We need to make rules and follow them,” he says. “But if you only follow rules you cannot become a pastry chef. You need more – you need aspiration. And you need to understand why things go wrong. You can learn from mistakes.” His relationship with ingredients is deep and complex. Nakamura feels the outcome of a recipe can be influenced by weather, mood and the individual personalities of the chefs. “Ten chefs will make ten different macarons even if their recipes are similar. You can tell the difference in texture. When we make cakes, we talk to the ingredients. If we are angry, we lose the connection. My macaron recipe is different in summer and winter.

The cooking time in summer is twelve minutes, in winter fourteen.” Chef Nakamura is faithful to classic recipes, putting a slight spin on them to make something unique. “I create at my own pace. I can change small things – add something, just a twist.” He understands the need for lightness and freshness. Pointing to a delicate, trembling slice of white chocolate passion fruit cake, he elaborates: “The sponge has no oil – egg white and flour, but no butter. On top is white chocolate, which is quite heavy. The light sponge creates the right balance.” “I made a crème brûlée with cinnamon instead of vanilla, and it was wonderful. I felt limited, using only vanilla. Now, making it with cinnamon, I feel unlimited. I feel free.”

tasting tasting notes notes 



中村忠史（Tadashi Nakamura），也就是香港米其林三星级 Robuchon 法式餐厅（L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon）的 Chef Pâtissier ( 甜点主厨 )，对西式糕点的热爱源自于年幼时与母亲在祖国日本逛街的经历。「我可没办法像生意人那样坐办公室，我就是不喜欢打领带。」他笑着说，「所以我选择作甜点师傅。」虽然中村不爱打领带，他却可是个货真价实的行政主管呢。他对厨房的管理工作一丝不苟，要求工作团队尽心付出，并坚持使用质量最好的材料，以严谨的态度制作糕点。「尽管每天的工作都一样，但对我们来说每天都是新的挑战。正因为都是做过的工作才不容易。」他懂得在行政组织内融入创意精神。「我们需要制定并遵守规则，」他说。「不过光是遵守规则并不会让你成为甜点师

傅，你还需要有灵感。此外，你也得知道失败的原因，才能从错误中学习。」厨师和食材的关系相当深厚及复杂。他认为气候、心情，甚至是制作师傅的性格对食谱皆有影响。「就算是采用相同的食谱，十位师傅做出来的马卡龙也有十种。这些差异从点心的质地就可看出。所以在制作蛋糕时，我们会和食材有沟通。如果我们情绪不佳，我们和食材之间的连结会中断。还有，我的夏季与冬季马卡龙食谱也不同。夏天的制作时间为 12 分钟，而冬天则是 14 分钟。」拥戴经典食谱的同时，中村也会加入一些创新想法。「我会依自己的步骤行事，也会做一些小改变－像是添加一些元素，一些些就好。」他知道人们对轻淡、新鲜的需求。他指着一片装饰精美的白巧克力百香果蛋糕说：「海绵糕体没有使用任何油脂，



只用了蛋白和面粉制作，也没加奶油。蛋糕外层用了偏重的白巧克力，和口味轻淡的海绵糕体正好平衡。」他如此形容自己发现新事物的过程：「我用肉桂代替香草，做了焦糖鸡蛋布丁，成果棒极了。我当时觉得只用香草过于局限，所以现在我改用肉桂。觉得自己不再受到食谱的限制，感觉好自由。」

Pantone193u

100%Black

 Lemon Cake 柠檬蛋糕  White Chocolate and Passion Fruit Cake 白巧克力百香果蛋糕

 Macaron Apple 玉桂苹果巧克力马卡龙 march 2013

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tasting notes

Croissant 牛角酥

冰冷的双手、温暖的心

cold hands, warm heart

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes no short cuts while baking some of Hong Kong’s finest viennoiserie

At Le SALon de thé de Joël Robuchon, Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes two days to make his famous croissants. “Croissants have lots of layers, so you have to be extra careful,” he says. “The flour and the butter have to be very good and fresh. No short cuts. If you put in the time, the results are totally different.” Chef Takei makes his croissants straight, rather than crescent-shaped, so that each light, flaky layer has extra freedom to rise. Why does it take two days? Takei reveals his secret: “The temperature is the thing. Keep all the ingredients in the freezer. Take them out as you work on each stage, and then replace them to chill again. Never allow the ingredients to come to room temperature, until just before baking the croissants.”

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march 2013

大学时，曾在面包店打工的香港 Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger ( 面包烘焙师 ) 武井周彦（Norihiko Takei），在毕业后决定放弃经济学文凭，因为他发现烘焙面包点心才是他想要的工作。制作他那名列香港最佳包点之一的牛角酥，准备的步骤需长达两日之久。武井认为这份工作需要纪律和充分的准备。「因为牛角酥有非常多的层次，制作时必须倍加小心。使用的面粉和奶油质量要上乘及新鲜，不可偷工减料。只要肯花时间，成果会相当不同。」不过，为什么得花两天来制作牛角酥呢？武井说出他的秘诀：「重点在温度。必须把所有材料冷冻保存，分别在每个制作阶段取出使用，并随时再次冷藏。绝对不能让材料的温度降至室温。这个步骤要一直重复到烘烤牛角酥为止。」

Strawberry Danish 草莓丹麦酥

march 2013

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tasting notes

THE MIRA 的大师

the man in the mira Coco Pastry Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher brings creativity and a bit of craziness to the kitchen



 Chocolate Mooncakes 巧克力月饼  Heavy Metal Bonbons: honey candy covered in equatorial chocolate 重金属风格夹心糖：当中以巧克力裹覆的蜂蜜软糖

 Whirligig Bonbons: matcha green tea ganache with raspberry in white chocolate 陀螺夹心糖：绿茶甘纳许巧克力 (含覆盆子馅白巧克力)

 

Jean-Marc Gaucher, Executive Pastry Chef at The Mira Hong Kong, likes to display his creations front and center in Coco, the stylish café and patisserie located in the hotel lobby. “We want Coco to be part of the hotel entrance, an elegant showcase of what we have to offer,” he says. Among the sumptuous cupcakes, petit gateaux and specialty cakes are beautiful, otherworldly bonbons that look like they might have been created by a chef from an advanced planet. Each piece is individually hand-painted, and pieces are done in rotation, so that new temptations appear every day. “The pride of the pastry chef is to bring something colorful, surprising and fun at the end of the dinner,” says Jean-Marc. “Pastry chefs are special. You need to be a little bit crazy.”

The Mira Hong Kong 饼房行政总厨 JeanMarc Gaucher 喜欢於时尚型格之酒店大堂的 Coco 甜品柜，展示其一系列创意作品。他说：「我们希望能让 Coco 成为酒店大堂的一部分，以优雅的风格展现我们酒店的各式精美甜点。」极尽妍巧的杯子蛋糕，法式软馅蛋糕及漂亮的主题蛋糕琳琅满目，而造型非常特殊的夹心糖，像是只有来自另一个更先进星球的厨师才能做得出来。每片蛋糕皆是手工制作，而且主题蛋糕天天换，因此每天都给人新的惊喜。 Jean-Marc 又说：「最让甜点师傅感到骄傲的，是在一餐结束时端上色彩缤纷、令人惊喜开心的甜点。甜点师傅是很特别的一群人，个性多少有点疯狂。」

march 2013

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tasting notes

创意无限

no limits Chef Thomas Liu’s pastries are lovely enough to make you wonder if you’re really meant to eat them – you are

Chef Thomas Liu

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Ravishingly beautiful coloRs, exquisite geometries, elegant decorative details—with Chef Thomas Liu’s pastry, the feast starts with the eyes. Visiting Thomas Trillion, the small shop near Victoria Park which he runs with his wife Ada, is satisfying even if you make the mistake of holding to your diet: it’s like stopping in at the gallery of a restlessly inventive pop art sculptor. “I never learned art in school,” says Thomas. “Because I was never taught, nothing blocks my way. There are no rules for me to follow. I can play around. I am free to create.” His signature cake is a bright orange cube surrounded by a square fence of dark chocolate. A slender line of silver leaves walks over a corner of the cake. “Not too much decoration, I like to keep it simple,” he says. “Simple outside, because it is complicated inside.”

美丽迷人的色彩、精湛的几何形状、优雅的装饰细节 — 甜点厨师 Thomas Liu（吕德辉）的糕点首先给人视觉飨宴。Tasting Kitchen 有幸造访他和夫人 Ada 在维多利亚公园旁经营的糕点店 Thomas Trillion，进入店内彷佛置身在艺廊中，处处可见创意呼之欲出的波普艺术雕塑作品。即使不巧在节食中，还是能大饱眼福。 Thomas 表示：「我没学过艺术。也正因如此，所以一路可以毫无限制。不须遵循任何规则。可以随心所欲地尝试和创作。」他的招牌蛋糕设计成亮橙色方块造型，四周围了一道黑巧克力方篱。再用细细的一道银叶衔接蛋糕的一角。他说：「不需太多装饰。我喜欢一切从简，因为蛋糕内部已经够复杂了。」｣巧妙的外表下隐藏了结构复杂得令人赞叹的蛋糕。招牌橙色方块蛋糕内部是咖啡巧克力海绵蛋糕，用香蕉铺成多道环形，并涂满口感像冻糕 (parfait) 的微酸覆盆子奶油酱。整体搭配新奇而美味。

To form a delicate contrast with the dark chocolate below, Chef Thomas sprays a finely turned ball of chocolate rattan with gold. 甜点厨师Thomas Liu 为了巧妙区隔底下的黑巧克力，在上面加上洒了金粉的巧克力球。 Left: Princess 公主

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tasting notes notes tasting Bite into one of Chef Thomas’ “Sweetie” cherries. A thin metallic carapace of chocolate splinters, and then there is a moment of anticipation before your teeth meet the flesh of the cherry. He has a secret way to keep the fruit plump and juicy, which he doesn’t share, but once you do get your teeth into the cherry, some really top quality schnapps oozes out. Crazy delicious. 一口咬下主厨的「甜心」樱桃巧克力球，首先吃到的是巧克力碎片铺成的薄薄外壳，以及咬下樱桃前的片刻期待。他的秘诀是能让樱桃饱满多汁，樱桃入口时，真正鲜美至极的樱桃香味在口中化开。真是美味得让人疯狂！

march 2013

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The upper hemispheres of these delicate chocolate orbs are perforated to offer glimpses of the tempting, raspberrychocolate filling inside. 这款美味巧克力球的上半部穿孔，可看到里面诱人的覆盆子巧克力内馅。

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march 2013

tasting notes

The smart surfaces of Chef Thomas’ cakes often do conceal intricately constructed, wow-inducing interiors. Embedded within the signature orange cube cake, which turns out to be made of coffee-flavored chocolate sponge, are rings of fragrant banana and lightly acidic raspberry cream with a parfait-like consistency. All together, it’s off-the-charts delicious. “I like to eat my signature cake,” says Thomas. “I really like it.” His father worked for thirty-three years as an engineer at the Peninsula Hotel, and Thomas designs his creations with an engineer’s precision, making detailed drawings outlining the thickness and sequence of layers within each cake. He still keeps a book made when he was a fourteen-year-old apprentice, with freehand diagrams, typed instructions and mounted photographs of his first pastries. Chef Thomas’ delicious designs fuse engineering and art, rigor and playfulness, form and flavor. “A chef should think about the guests, how they eat and how they feel,” he says. “From the first flavor through to the last – and how they feel afterwards. When you watch the guests as they enjoy a piece, and you see that they are happy, smiling, and love it – that is good enough for me.” And why did he decide to call his shop Thomas Trillion? “Trillion? It’s because when we create, there are no limits. My idea is to keep going. Non-stop. Trillions of ideas.”

Thomas Liu’s Signature Cake Thomas Lui 招牌橙方蛋糕

Thomas 说：「我自己也很喜欢吃我的招牌蛋糕。」由于他的父亲曾在半岛酒店担任工程师长达 33 年，Thomas 也以工程师的精准度设计他的作品，事先以细图勾勒出每个蛋糕的厚度和内层。他至今仍保留 14 岁当学徒时的笔记本，里面有他第一次制作的手绘糕点作品插图、打字说明和照片。设计其作品时，Thomas 融合了工程与艺术、严谨与趣味，且色味兼具。他表示，「糕点师傅应想想客人品尝时的感觉，从第一口到最后一口的滋味，还有吃完后的感觉。客人看到糕点时开心微笑，而且喜欢，对我来说就够了。」为什么他会选择「Thomas Trillion」这个店名？｣「会用『Trillion ( 兆 )』这个字是因为创意无限。我的想法是持续不断，有数兆之多的无限灵感。」

Royal 皇家蛋糕

march 2013

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The pastry you love the most will be made by the people who most love to make it

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march 2013

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ervé Lemonon, Executive Pastry Chef at Grand Lapa Macau, gleefully sinks his hands into a stainless steel bowl full of almond flour and sugar, clenches two fistfuls of powder, pops his hands open and begins mixing things up by wiggling his fingers. He looks like he’s having the time of his life. “I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me,” he says. Chef Hervé radiates joy. His staff love him. Every morning there is a scuffle as various chefs on his team vie with each other to see who will get to help him prepare the buffet. “He isn’t just a chef,” says Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad. “He is also like a father.” “I’ve been here for twelve years. I came here as an apprentice,” says Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man. “We have great teamwork. It’s like a family.” An atmosphere of calm concentration prevails in the kitchen, until somebody cracks a joke. Then all the chefs erupt into a raucous round of banter. There is a lot of teasing, and laughing, and then things quiet down again as everybody focuses on the work. Hervé fills a piping bag with a mixture of whipped cream, lemon zest, butter and melted chocolate. Turning away from the petits fours he is decorating, he checks the glaze on a beautiful mango caramel cake a junior chef has finished.

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march 2013

Chatting, laughing, animated, he swings around to another chef, who is dexterously spreading apricot jam on layers of puff pastry. Hervé calls out: “Ah Lei is the fastest Napoleon maker in Macau!” And then with magic speed and precision his own hands go to work, squeezing, piping out gloriously perfect dollops of mousse to top each tiny chocolate tart. Jr Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng is also piping, drawing lovely Chinese characters onto chocolate plaques. Other chefs are busy preparing raspberry and cherry mousse cakes, truffles, egg tarts and Black Forest gateaux, each working steadily at his or her station, occasionally passing each other instruments. Every now and then, chefs slip in and out through the sliced plastic curtains that protect a treasure vault of a cold storage room. Trolleys there are laden with cakes waiting to be released to customers upstairs. “It’s a great feeling when the cake you just made is sold or eaten straight away,” says Hervé. The joy and pride the chefs take in their work is contagious. Waiters coming from upstairs to collect bread, kitchen porters carrying buckets – everybody lights up as they come into Hervé’s pastry kitchen. There is a moment when the whole kitchen goes quiet. Everyone in the room is melting something: Hervé is melting caramel, Roberto a redcurrant glaze, Kelly chocolate, and Ah Lei a saucepan of apricot jam. The kitchen is silent apart from a very quiet bubbling.

“ I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me. 每天醒来，周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。” 澳门金丽华酒店行政饼房总厨 Hervé Lemonon 开心地将双手插到盛满杏仁粉和糖的钢碗里，再一下子张开抓满了粉的双手，开始揉面。一副乐在其中的样子。他说：「每天醒来，周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。」总厨 Hervé 整个人散发着喜悦。他的工作人员都很喜欢他。每天早上他组里不同的厨师都争先恐后想与他一起准备当日的自助午餐。初级主厨 Roberto Macalalad 表示，「他不只是厨师，也像父亲。」助理饼房厨师梁健文表示：「我在这里已经十二年了。一开始是当学徒。我们的团队合作气氛很好，像个大家庭。」厨房里通常是大家安静地聚精会神，直到有人说了个笑话。接着，所有厨师们会突然喧笑戏谑成一团。有很多的相互打趣和大笑。然后，随着大家又开始专注工作，一切又回归寂静。 Hervé 将混入了柠檬皮、牛油和巧克力酱的鲜奶油装进奶油袋，装饰好花式小蛋糕后，转身检查一位新手厨师刚做好的芒果焦糖蛋糕上的糖衣，然后又兴高采烈地转身对正灵巧地将杏桃果酱铺在层层酥皮上的另一位厨师喊

道，「阿李是全澳门做法式千层酥最快的人！」然后，双手又以神奇的速度和精确度开始工作，在每个小巧克力挞上挤出完美的一圈慕斯。初级助理主厨吴紫君 (Kelly) 也正用奶油袋在巧克力片上画出美丽的中文字。其他厨师则忙着准备覆盆子和樱桃慕斯蛋糕、蛋挞和黑森林蛋糕。每个人都在自己的工作台上稳健作业，偶尔帮忙把用具递给别人。厨师们偶尔会进出像是有塑料门帘保护宝库般的冷藏储存室。里面的推车上放满了等着拿到楼上给宾客的蛋糕。 Hervé 表示：「刚做好的蛋糕一下子就卖完或被客人吃光，感觉很棒！」厨师们对所做成品的喜悦感和骄傲感极具渲染力。从下楼拿面包的服务生到拿水桶进来的厨房搬运工，每个人一进到 Hervé 的糕点厨房都是笑容满面。有时整个厨房会突然安静。每个人都在融东西： Hervé 在融焦糖，Roberto 在融红醋栗糖衣，Kelly 在融巧克力，阿李在融一锅杏桃果酱。除了小声的冒泡声之外，整个厨房鸦雀无声。

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From the left: Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad, Executive Pastry Chef HervĂŠ Lemonon, First Cook Lei Tak Meng, Jr. Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng, Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man, Senior Chef de Partie Choi Kung Va, First Cook Kenny Ho, First Cook Anny Hoi

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march 2013

由左边开始：初级主厨Roberto Macalalad，行政饼房总厨林学晖(Hervé Lemonon),一级厨师李德明, 初级助理主厨吴紫君, 助理饼房厨师梁健文,高级主厨崔冠华, 一级厨师何文伟, 一级厨师许玉园

march 2013

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tasting recipe

「特洛佩的女人」法式巧克力茉莉花茶蛋糕

jasmine tea chocolate tropézienne This deluxe Tropézienne, created especially for Tasting Kitchen, is an updated version of one of Chef Regis’ childhood favorites 为「Tasting Kitchen美食杂志」特制的精美「特洛佩的女人」 (Tropézienne)蛋糕，是主厨 Regis儿时美味的现代诠释. By Regis Monges Pastry Chef at Grand Hyatt Macau

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march 2013

The Tropézienne is a classic pastry from the south of France, where I’m also from. I was a young child when I first tried one. The owners of a Saint-Tropez pâtisserie brought a cake along when they came to our house to buy a Vespa. While they were speaking and drinking with my parents, I finished it all by myself! Back in the 1950s, Brigitte Bardot filmed And God Created Woman on location in Saint-Tropez. The pâtisserie doing the catering brought this amazing little cake to the set along with the baguettes and croissants, and the filming crew fell in love with it. They kept asking for more and more until finally Bardot suggested the cake should be named for Saint-Tropez. And that’s how it became known as the Tropézienne.

The classic Tropézienne recipe has orange and vanilla flavors, but I’ve added some complexity. It’s normally punched with orange blossom syrup. I’ve kept the orange flavor, perking it up with the Grand Marnier and incorporating orange zest inside the dough and cream. The cake’s cream filling is made with milk infused with jasmine tea, matcha tea, orange zest and vanilla beans. The classic recipe uses buttercream. But I whip this one to make a Chantilly that is white chocolate-based with cream. In texture and taste, I believe it is more attractive. There are a lot of ingredients combined in this cake. Sometimes you are trying to add a new layer of flavor. Other times you use one to reinforce or give substance to

another. You can’t really taste the white chocolate, but it provides the structure, roundness and smoothness. The orange zest and the jasmine tea layer upon each other. The matcha green tea and the jasmine tea flavors reinforce each other while also bringing a hint of grass. In order to appreciate bite after bite, you need to have something that provides contrast and reverses the balance on your palate. It could be something acidic, crunchy, salty, or even sour. But it’s important to have a component that moves you back and forth. I’ve added almonds, which are very common in the south of France. Caramelized, roasted in the oven with a hint of salt, they give the Tropézienne just the right extra flavor and texture.

「特洛佩的女人」（Tropézienne）是我的家乡、法国南部的传统糕点。第一次吃到的时候年纪还很小，当时，圣特洛佩小镇（SaintTropez）一家蛋糕店的老板到我家来买伟士牌 (Vespa) 机车，顺道带了个特洛佩蛋糕来。趁大人们边吃边喝聊得正开心的时候，我一个人把整块蛋糕全都吃光光！ 1950 年代法国知名女星碧姬芭杜的电影「上帝创造女人」(And God Created Woman) 在圣特洛佩小镇（Saint-Tropez）取景。负责剧组伙食的面包店，供应了这款美味的小蛋糕。电影剧组人员一试便爱上了这款甜点。碧姬芭杜当时就建议用小镇的名字特洛佩来命名，也就是现在「特洛佩的女人」（Tropézienne）名称的由来。「特洛佩的女人」传统食谱包括柳橙及香草再加入橙花糖浆，蛋糕奶油馅以鲜奶为基底，加入茉莉花茶、抹茶、橙皮丁及

香草籽。相较传统作法，我加入柑曼怡甜酒（Grand Marnier) 提升味道的层次，并在内馅及奶油内加入橙皮丁；再以白巧克力为底，加以奶油为辅。「特洛佩的女人」里面加了许多配料。有时是为了创造一种新的风味，有时则是为了烘托其他配料。白巧克力的味道可能不突出，但却让口感更为圆滑、柔顺；橙皮丁及茉莉花茶交叠帮衬、绿茶则提升整体的茶香及滋味，同时带来一丝青草的清香。要一口接一口吃不腻，还要加入一些滋味口感与主味相反的材料，带给味蕾完全不同的新鲜感，带酸、酥脆、偏咸甚或酸味都可以。我加入的是法国南部乡间四处可见的杏仁。进烤箱烘烤后，放入「特洛佩的女人」蛋糕里，正好可以发挥画龙点睛的效果，带出独特的口感与风味。 march 2013

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tasting recipe

orANGE BrIoCHE

WHITE CHoColATE jASmINE

500 grams bread flour

TEA WHIppEd CrEAm

67 grams sugar

10 grams salt

240 grams cream

25 grams yeast

140 grams white chocolate

300 grams egg

250 grams butter

4 oranges for zest

yeast, and egg at medium speed for 25 minutes.

 Zest the oranges over the mixture, add the butter in small pieces while mixing at low speed, and then move to medium speed until the mixture fully separates from the sides of the bowl.



Shape the dough into a ball and then roll it out into a flat circular disk about ½ cm thick and 20 cm in diameter.

and rise to double its original size and then punch it down. Paint it with egg yolk and sprinkle sugar and almond on top for garnish.

 Bake the brioche at 160°C for around 20 minutes. The actual time will vary by oven and dough size.

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Infused mIlk

5 grams orange peel

1 grams vanilla bean

 To infuse the milk, boil it with the jasmine tea, matcha green tea, orange peel, and vanilla beans. Sieve the liquid and measure out 75 grams of infused milk.

 Warm the infused milk with the cream, but don’t bring it to a boil. Pour it on the white chocolate. Add the Grand Marnier and place the mixture in the refrigerator. Allow it to mature for twelve hours before using.

 Lightly whip the mixture.

march 2013

4 ASSEmBly 250 grams candied almonds

25 grams sugar

1 orange for zest

55 grams jasmine tea

1 orange for orange peel confit

330 grams Grand Marnier

 Boil the water and sugar.  Remove the liquid from the heat and add the tea leaves. Let it infuse for 30 minutes before straining.

10 grams jasmine tea 2 grams matcha green tea



250 ml water

6 grams Grand Marnier

Cover the dough. Let it rest 

jASmINE TEA Syrup

75 grams infused milk (see below)

175 grams milk

Mix the flour, sugar, salt, 



Allow the liquid to cool down and then add the Grand Marnier.

 Slice the brioche horizontally in half.

 Brush both layers with jasmine tea syrup. 

Cover the bottom layer with the whipped cream. Piped rosettes look nicer and give the cake more volume when assembled.

 Roughly chop the candied almonds and sprinkle them on top of the whipped cream. Finely grate orange zest over  the whipped cream.

 To make the orange peel confit, cut the orange peel into julienne strips and boil in a simple syrup of equal parts water and sugar. Sprinkle the confit on top of the whipped cream to reinforce the flavor of the orange in the cake. Place the top layer on the  whipped cream and garnish the top if desired. Enjoy!

香橙布里欧麦面包

白巧克力茉莉花茶鲜奶油

500 公克面粉

75 公克调味奶 ( 见下方说明 )

茉莉花茶糖浆

装盘出餐

250 毫升水

250 公克焦糖杏仁

67 公克糖

240 公克奶油

25 公克糖

1 颗橙的橙皮丁

10 公克盐

140 公克白巧克力

55 公克茉莉花茶

1 颗橙的橙皮

25 公克酵母

6 公克柑曼怡甜酒

300 公克蛋

250 公克奶油

175 公克牛奶

4 颗橙皮丁（橙皮洗净去除白色部分，只留下薄薄一层橙皮）

 将面粉、糖、盐、酵母及蛋放入碗内，以中速揉和 25 分钟。

 橙皮丁切碎放入，分次加



调味奶 10 公克茉莉花茶

2 公克抹茶

5 公克柳丁皮

1 公克香草籽

 牛奶加入茉莉花茶、抹茶、橙皮丁及香草籽煮滚调味后过筛，取 75 公克备用。

 调味奶加入奶油后小火慢

将面团揉成球状后杆平至 0.5 公分厚、直径 20 公分大小。

 加入柑曼怡甜酒后放入冰

倍大后刷上蛋黄，撒上糖及杏仁片点缀。

 布里欧奶油面包横切为上  将糖水煮滚。  关火后加入茶叶，浸泡 30 分钟后过筛。



待冷却后再加入柑曼怡甜酒。

下层两份。

 两份均涂上茉莉花茶糖浆。  下层覆以鲜奶油。以鲜奶油花边装饰视觉效果更佳。

 压碎焦糖杏仁后撒在鲜奶油上方。

入奶油，同时慢速和面团，后加快至中速，揉至面团与碗壁可以完全分离。

静置面团，待膨胀二至三 

330 公克柑曼怡甜酒

煮，勿煮滚，加热后倒至白巧克力上。箱冷冻 12 小时。

 取出后轻轻搅拌即可。

将橙皮丁整齐置于鲜奶油  上。

 将橙皮切成细丝，放入水糖比例各半的糖水中煮滚。取出橙皮丝，撒在鲜奶油上方，衬出蛋糕的香橙风味。将奶油面包上层置于鲜奶  油上。上层可随喜好增添装饰。

 放入烤箱以 160° 烤约 20 分钟。烘烤时间依烤箱及面团大小而有调整。

march 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

tasting notes

草莓缘未了

cake karma

Chef Günther Wolfsgruber recommends a simple path to happiness: eat more cake

Chef Günther WolfsGruber still remembers eating his first strawberry. He was a boy, sitting in a field near a mountain lake in June, in his native Austria, and it was a moment of pure delight. Now, years later, serving as the pastry chef at MGM Macau, he still feels his spirits lift every time a new shipment of strawberries arrives at his kitchen. “When you bring strawberries into a pastry kitchen, the opportunities are endless!” At the same time, he cautions that strawberries pair less promiscuously with other ingredients than people imagine. Cream, or proper home-made yogurt, will enhance a strawberry’s flavor, while mint and sweet basil lend depth. Matching pineapple or passion fruit with strawberries creates a pleasing acidity. Rhubarb, orange and citrus liqueurs, like Cointreau and Grand Marnier, draw out the berry’s shadowy notes. Chocolate and coffee are to be avoided as they mask delicate tones in a strawberry’s flavor. Tea is the best choice of drink to accompany the fruit. Orange Pekoe, Darjeeling and Oolong will all highlight a strawberry’s true colors.

行政总饼师 Günther Wolfsgruber 仍记得他第一次吃草莓的情景。当时六月，还是小男孩的他坐在奥地利老家山光水色的草地上，那样的喜悦与感动至今难忘。许多年后，当年的小男孩成为澳门美高梅的行政总饼师，每当新的一批草莓送达厨房，总让他精神为之一振。「只要用草莓做甜点，就可以变出无穷的美味花样！」然而他也不忘提醒，草莓与其他食材的搭配组合，并不如一般人所想的那么多、那么随性。举例来说，奶油或自制优格能提升草莓的味道，薄荷和甜罗勒能加强口感深度，与凤梨或热情果搭配则能创造出顺口的酸味。大黄、橙子和柑橘利口酒，例如君度橙酒 (Cointreau) 和柑曼怡 (Grand Marnier)，能扫除草莓晦暗的气息。巧克力和咖啡则该避免与之搭配，因为它们会掩盖住草莓风味里娇嫩的格调。茶是最好的选择，橙香白毫、大吉岭和乌龙最能凸显出草莓的真性情。这些组合在 Günther 制作的糕点里都看得到。令人惊讶的奢华马卡龙串，以草莓和热情果果冰搭配，缀上希腊干优乳碎片。而他的经典作草莓塔，则在柔软的奶油馅里不着痕迹地掺了点柑曼怡

Chilled peach and champagne mousseline on light strawberry compote with fresh strawberries, pink peach sherbet and crispy meringue fingers 红桃香槟奶油配清新士多啤梨酱，新鲜士多啤梨，粉红蜜桃雪芭及香脆法式蛋白条

march 2013

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Strawberry Romanoff pastry 士多啤梨罗曼诺夫

“ When you bring strawberries into a pastry kitchen, the opportunities are endless!” 当你把草莓带入糕点厨房，创意是无限的！” These liaisons all appear in Chef Günther’s pastries. A playfully extravagant macaron shish kebab is held together with strawberry and passion fruit sherbet and topped with grated Greek yogurt. His classic strawberry tart has a whisper of Cointreau in the soft crème patisserie filling. Each flavor is carefully selected to play perfect counterpoint to the strawberries. “Fashion comes and goes, but comfort food lasts,” says Günther. “Quality is the most important thing.” Quality – and to get there, something that might best be described as heart. “You must have passion and be in the right mind set.

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march 2013

How can you design something beautiful, without being in a good mood?” A kitchen scented by strawberries is a heavenly place to work, and eating strawberry pastries, explains Günther, is good for the soul: “I don’t feel guilty if I eat a piece of cake with cream. I don’t believe in low fat and low sugar. I eat the whole deal, or I won’t eat it. Nowadays people have more than they ever did, and yet they are unhappy. They don’t make time to enjoy their lives. To sit down with a cake to take afternoon tea makes you happy. And when you are happy, you have the capacity to be kind to other people.”

(Cointreau)。每种口味都经过精心挑选，与草莓演绎出最精准的协奏曲。「流行会过时，只有真正的美食才能永续。」Günther 说道，「最重要的是质量。」谈到质量，就不得不从心态谈起。「你必须充满热情，心态要正确。如果情绪不佳，怎么可能创造出如此美丽的食物呢？」 Günther 说，在充满草莓香的厨房工作有如置身天堂，吃草莓甜点更是有益身心。「我吃奶油蛋糕完全不会有罪恶感。我不相信低糖低脂。现代人什么都有，生活远比以往富足，却更不快乐，不懂得花时间享受生活。坐下来吃块蛋糕、喝个下午茶能让你心情愉悦。你自己快乐了，才有能力让别人快乐。」

tasting tasting notes notes Classic French strawberry frangipane tart with Cointreau crème pâtissière and pistachios 经典法式草莓杏仁奶油挞佐以君度橙酒奶油与开心果仁

march 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

/ worldclass world class

低调的喜悦

discreet delight Wyndham the 4th is hard to find but easy to love

An initiAl clue to Wyndham the 4th’s selfassurance is the bar’s simple webpage, which features nothing more than an address, a phone number and this statement: “Now Open.” Hidden away on the 4th floor of a non-descript office building on Wyndham Street, there are no signs to help guide the way, and the entrance is easy to miss. The search contributes to the charm of the discovery. The bar is cozy and intimate, outfitted with leather sofas and lamps, and it opens up to a lovely outdoor terrace, just high enough above the street hubbub to preserve Wynham the 4th’s tranquil, restrained

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march 2013

mood. It’s the sort of place that can easily afford promotional discretion: delighted customers take care of spreading the word. “Lan Kwai Fong is party central. We don’t want the bar to be crazy like that,” says bartender John Ng. “We want it to be a quiet, classy place where you can have a proper conversation with your friends.” Ng, a finalist in the 2013 Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender of the Year competition, works the bar alongside 2012 Hong Kong winner and Wyndham bar manager Tom Wood. One of John’s award-winning cocktails is the “BBC” – beef and beer cocktail. John

explains that beer is becoming much more popular on the cocktail circuit. “It has a heavier texture and flavor. And the Juniper Pale Ale in this drink really complements the refreshing natural juniper flavors in the gin. It’s a good match.” Egg white and honey add to the nourishing, frothy thickness, which is accented by the lighter floral notes of the tea and Elderflower liquor. John describes his cocktail as a tribute to the English and what they have done for Hong Kong. “Gin, tea and beer, with some beef on the side – you can’t get much more English than that!”

BBC Beef & Beer Cocktail 鸡尾酒

30 ml Tanqueray No. TEN gin

50 ml Elderflower liquor

20 ml lemon juice 柠檬汁

20 ml tea and honey mix 茶与蜂蜜混调

坦奎瑞琴酒接骨木花利口酒

(4ml English Breakfast Tea, 16ml honey) (4ml 英国早餐茶加 16ml 蜂蜜 )

1 egg white 个蛋白

Rogue Juniper Pale Ale to top

Dried tea leaves 干燥茶叶

Spray of homemade tea perfume

在上面淋上杜松淡啤酒

自制茶香精

1 piece beef jerky, skewered on toothpick 一片牛肉干，以牙签固定住

Measure the gin, lemon juice, tea and honey, elderflower liquor and egg white into a shaker. Shake gently. Add a large scoop of ice and shake again. Strain into a small beer stein. Top with Juniper Pale Ale and sprinkle dried tea leaves across the top. Spray with a mist of tea perfume and lay a skewered twist of beef jerky across the top of the glass. Cheers! 按照上面的分量，在容器里一一加入琴酒、柠檬汁、茶及蜂蜜、接骨木花利口酒跟蛋白，然后轻轻摇晃。然后加一大杓的冰，再摇。摇匀之后倒入啤酒杯内，淋上杜松淡啤酒、撒上几片干的茶叶，最后洒些茶香精，在杯口上横斜地放一片牛肉干。干杯吧！

从 Wyndham the 4th 的网页便能感受到这家酒吧的自信，设计简单的网站上仅有地址、电话及「已开幕」寥寥数字。隐身在一栋貌不惊人的办公大楼四楼，没有招牌，让第一次来的客人很容易就错过入口。但正因这家酒吧难找，却显得更有魅力。整间酒吧给人温馨亲切的感觉，舒适的皮沙发及座灯，讨人喜欢的露台，其高度正好避开底下街道的喧嚣，宁静自持的风格因此得以保存。这样吸引人的所在，让侥幸发现这里的常客都不愿多张扬。酒吧副经理伍浩然表示：「兰桂坊适合开派对狂欢，但我们不希望这家店变得太狂野。我们希望打造一个安静、有质感

的地方，你可以跟朋友舒服地谈天。」伍是 2013 年 Diageo Reserve 举办的世界最佳调酒师大赛进入决赛者，与 2012 年香港区冠军 Tom Wood ( 也是本店经理 ) 共同经营。伍发明的 BBC 鸡尾酒曾得过奖，是以牛肉及啤酒混合而成。他解释近年来啤酒已成为鸡尾酒相当受欢迎的调料，因其「质

地较厚、香味浓郁，杜松淡啤酒为琴酒添增松树的香气，搭配起来效果极佳。」蛋白及蜂蜜使口感滋养、醇厚，淡雅花香的茶及接骨木花利口酒更衬托出绝妙口感。伍说这款鸡尾酒代表他向英国人致敬的心意，「琴酒、茶及啤酒，里面加些牛肉，你找不到更英国式的东西了！」

Tanqueray No. TEN is the gin of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the world’s best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

march 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

DeDicateD to appreciating the best minDs in the worlD of wine

梅洛葡萄酒

the way of merlot Along an ancient pilgrim’s path, which leads through France to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain, lies the Château Franc Mayne, famed since Roman times for its fine wines. Hervé Laviale and his wife Griet acquired the Bordeaux property in 2005, adding it to their other wine estate holdings in the region, and have since made their mark with great Bordeaux blends. Mr. Laviale met with TK recently at the Miele Lounge in Hong Kong to talk about Merlot. 从法国到西班牙的圣地亚哥德孔波斯特拉大教堂的朝圣路上，坐落着一座自罗马时代便因生产上好葡萄酒而享誉盛名的弗朗梅诺酒庄。Hervé Laviale夫妇于2005年买下了这座位于波尔多的著名酒庄，进一步拓展他们的葡萄酒王国，旗下顶级葡萄酒扬名海外。TK此次有幸与Laviale先生在香港Miele Lounge相会，一同畅谈梅洛葡萄酒的点点滴滴。

What are the characteristics of Merlot? It is a very easy-going grape, probably the most joyful grape in Bordeaux. Generally we make a blend. Merlot brings easy aromas and a little fruit – red fruit. But you need to have some Cabernet with the Merlot, which gives bones to the wine and lends complexity.

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How important is the climate in Bordeaux for growing Merlot? Merlot from Bordeaux is very different from that of other countries. In Bordeaux, even when it is very hot during the day, 35 degrees in July and August, the nights are still fresh. This means the grapes cannot create too much sugar, so there is not too much alcohol in the wine. In Spain and Italy, day and night temperatures are consistently hot, so the wines are more alcoholic. At what point do you know the grapes are perfectly ready? You have to taste the grapes on the vines from beginning of September until the harvest to check aromas inside the fruit and the

先谈谈贵葡萄园的所在地吧。数十年来，波尔多右岸向来是梅洛葡萄的主要产区，那里阳光没那么多，土质以黏土与石灰石为主。石灰石是栽种梅洛葡萄相当重要的风土条件，提供了这款红酒很特别的矿物质和酸味，其他地区生产的梅洛葡萄酒就少了这两种味道。梅洛葡萄有什么特色？这种葡萄十分平易近人，称得上是波尔多地区口感最舒服的葡萄吧，通常会与其他种葡萄混合酿酒。梅洛葡萄让酿出的红酒有自然的芬芳和一点红果的滋味，但还需要加一些赤霞珠葡萄以突出这款红酒的个性，增添复杂的层次感。

Edmon Leong

Tell us about the region where your vineyards are located. The Right Bank in Bordeaux is a place where Merlot has been planted for decades. It is a bit less sunny and the type of soil is clay and limestone. Limestone is an important part of the terroir for Merlot because it provides minerality and acidity. Other regions that produce Merlot wines don’t have that dimension.

Hervé Laviale, winemaker 酿酒师

taste of the pips. You have to chew a lot. If the pips taste of nuts, this is good. If they are too green, this has a negative effect on vinification. You also have to put the grape into your hand and rub the skin to see if the color is right. It should come out on your fingers. So you have to be sure the three elements are there: the level of sugar in your mouth, the taste of the pips, and the color. How long do you have to harvest the grapes? You have a very short window. Merlot is a grape that needs its maturity but if you wait too long the quality decreases very quickly. We can move fast with the harvest and clear seven hectares in two days. Does the size of the wine bottle make a difference? The quality of the magnum cork is better as we try to dedicate the best corks for the bigger containers. The size of the container also has an effect on the contents. The evolution inside a bigger bottle is greater – the wine can change more. When you put your wine into a bottle it is like caging it, you put it in jail. So it is better to be in a big jail. Once it is bottled, how quickly can we get it open? It isn’t good to taste the wines too soon after

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bottling, because there is something we call “bottling disease.” You have to let the wines have at least one year. The wine has to recover from the bottling. Like a kind of trauma. What about storing and keeping wine after you buy it? Any tips? The best way is to store your wine in a professional cooler, where you can monitor the heat and humidity and light. If the light is harsh, it can break the wine. Optimal conditions are a temperature of fifteen to eighteen degrees Celsius, and humidity of fifty to sixty percent. The humidity is necessary to prevent the cork from shrinking, which causes too strong a change in the wine. Does the age of a wine affect how it should be served? A younger wine should be opened early to give it a chance to breathe. Three hours minimum, so you can appreciate the complexity. Older vintages are more fragile and susceptible to oxidation, and being open too long can hurt the flavor. Decant very young wines but with very old wines, just open the bottle. How do the recent Bordeaux vintages vary? Which ones should we be snapping up? You are not producing the same wine from one year to another. Our major goal is to let the vintage express itself. Different vintages can vary in flavor, level of extraction and density of the wine. People are attracted by the big Bordeaux vintages of the decade: 2000, 2005 and 2009. But when you are looking for wine, give a chance to the other vintages. If you want an easy-going wine right now, choose 2007, which is very inexpensive. The 2004 is very classical, while 2006 and 2008 have a more exotic style. At our properties, the 2004 is opening and the 2005 is ready.

波尔多的气候对栽种梅洛葡萄有什么重要影响？波尔多地区生产的梅洛葡萄与其他国家的非常不同。在波尔多，即使是炎热的七、八月，白天温度高达 35 度，夜晚的空气依然清凉，这种气候的葡萄不会产生过多糖分，因此酿成的葡萄酒酒精度较低。西班牙和意大利从早到晚的气温都很高，酿出酒的酒精度就比较高。如何知道葡萄完美熟成的时候？从九月初葡萄还在藤上时就要试吃，一直到收成季节，检查果内的香气和种籽的味道，要不断咀嚼品尝。如果种籽尝起来像坚果，这就很好，如果太青涩，也感觉得出来，这对酿酒过程是不利的。还要将葡萄放在手中，搓揉果皮，看显现在手指头上的颜色对不对。总之有三项要素：嘴里尝到的甜度、种籽的味道、果皮的颜色。采收葡萄需花多少时间？采收期很短。梅洛葡萄最好要等到成熟时立即采收，若等太久质量很快就下降了。我们的采收速度很快，两天内就可采收完七公顷。酒瓶大小会造成什么差异吗？容器大小的确对酒有影响，大酒瓶的陈年效果比较好，酒可以经历较多改变。其实将酒装瓶像是把酒囚禁起来，关在牢里，当然牢房大一点比较好。因此我们用心找最适合大酒瓶的软木塞，目前发现 1.5 升酒瓶的软木塞质量最适宜。近年的波尔多年份酒有什么不同？哪些年份是值得大肆抢购珍藏？每年产出的酒都不相同，我们的目的是让各年份展现自己的特色。不同年份的酒在风味上、萃取程度上、浓度上都不同。过去十年的波尔多年份酒中，许多人推崇 2000 年、2005 年和 2009 年的，但我建议不要忽略了其他的年份。如果想要平易近人的酒，就该选 2007 年的，而且价格也相当宜人。2004 年的非常中规中矩，2006 和 2008 年的则带有异域风情。在我们的酒庄，

Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾礼顿道 111 号地下 q +852 2890 1018 H www.miele.hk

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march 2013

“Merlot is probably the most joyful grape in Bordeaux. 梅洛葡萄应该是波尔多地区口感最舒服的葡萄。”

2004 年刚可开始品尝，2005 年是水到渠成，最佳享受时刻。

将酒装瓶后多久可以打开？装瓶后不要太快打开，酒会因为被装瓶而所谓「生病」。至少要放一年，让酒能有时间复原。

Edmon Leong

买了酒之后，有什么贮存的窍门吗？最好的方法是将酒存放在专门的酒柜里，温度、湿度和光线都控制在一定范围。光线太强会伤害酒体，而最佳的温度是摄氏 15 到 18 度，湿度最好介于 50~60% 之间。如果没有维持一定的湿度，使得软木塞干燥萎缩，会对酒造成非常大的影响。

Mr. and Mrs. Laviale have designed their wine labels to reflect the history of the region. The Château Vieux Maillet (Pomerol) bottle on the far right has a label with a cockle shell motif, symbol of the pilgrims who walk the route to Santiago. Learn more about the Laviale’s premier wines here: http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/ Laviale夫妇设计的酒标反映出当地的历史，例如最右边老铁锤酒庄的酒标设计便发想于蛤壳的纹路，象征朝圣者徒步前往圣地亚哥的旅程。欲了解Laviale 的顶级葡萄酒，请至http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/。

酒龄会影响饮酒方式吗？酒龄较轻的酒应提早打开，让酒有机会呼吸，至少提早三小时，喝的时候口感就会有复杂的层次。酒龄较老的年份酒比较脆弱，容易氧化，太早打开反而坏了风味。所以非常年轻的酒要倒出来喝，非常老的酒则要打开瓶盖马上喝。什么料理适合搭配梅洛葡萄酒？这得依据不同的年份酒而定。我们有一款 2003 年的酒，当年非常炎热，酿成的酒就和巧克力甜点很搭。不过就梅洛葡萄酒而言，我会推荐羊肉、鸡鸭和小牛肉。 march 2013

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