TK7 Choice Cuts by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

TASTING KITCHEN #7 • MAY 2013

CENTRAL

Choice Cuts ౟ၟࢗ߶!!!! HONG KONG & MACAU

The Best of Burgundy ġ؋ ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬ፇᏥ HONG KONG

Red & Red ऽຢৠऽġ

starter

At Grand Lisboa’s Don Alfonso 1890 in Macau, Chef Alfonso Iaccarino serves this Giudia-style artichoke with buffalo mozzarella, pennyroyal mint, black trufﬂe and a sauce of anchovies from Cetara. ‫خ‬࿩‫֑ۑ‬เ Alfonso Iaccarino቙թ౤ᄧඈੲએ‫ݥ‬Ș‫࠘ܬ‬էཧ1890ሃ໮ல୲ș ‫خ‬࿩ੴᄩ፟Ꮾܿዣ‫ٮ‬ბৈ֎༽೾ጾ໰Ȃ֤चፆȂफམ௷ঽሙቢ௛ȃ

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CHOICE CUTS MAY 2013

•

ISSUE #7

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s ﬁnest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & CO-PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Jenny Man GROUP GENERAL MANAGER & CO-PUBLISHER jman@tasting-kitchen.com

Jeff Hammons

Jean Alberti

EDITOR AT LARGE jeff@tasting-kitchen.com

CHEF AT LARGE jean@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Helene Wong

Joey Cheang

Macau: +853 6279 2238

CHINESE EDITOR

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

gerard@tasting-kitchen.com

Lucy Morgan

Kennis Yuen

Mamie Chen

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Annabel Jackson

Anita Leong

Sarah Dallof

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Crystal Tai

Ivan Lam

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ACCOUNTANT

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

Gerard William Whitty ASST. SALES DIRECTOR HK : +852 5196 0253

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

PRINTING Inﬁnity Printing Company Limited 3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building 9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION Blackstone Concepts Communication + 852 3481 0518

on our cover Roasted Challans duck breast, foie gras and orange skin packed with duck conﬁt and orange jelly, prepared at Mandarin Oriental, Macau by Vida Rica’s new Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand. For more of Chef Bugnand’s extraordinary cooking, turn to page 42. ც૥ߟ࣭ຆ୏ᅿᄽˈ߅ࡣਟȂ௛‫ڇ‬൝ቌ࠙ᅿᏫ‫ˈތڇ‬ቈթ౤ၭख़‫ބ‬ ߴએ‫ݥ‬ȘቸኔșᄧใᄵጹᏓ‫ַڷ‬ಙ୛‫ۑ‬Ꮾȃჱ฀ขኡ‫ݕ‬42ᇔȃ

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DADA (HONG KONG) LIMITED

INTERNI CHINA LIMITED

OFFICE UNIT B, 15TH FLOOR, NORTH POINT INDUSTRIAL BUILDING, SHOWROOM ROOM 109, BLOCK 1, 333 YI SHAN ROAD, SHANGHAI, CHINA 499 KING’S ROAD, HONG KONG T (852) 2890 2823 T (86) 21 6090 8919 / 6090 8922 SHOWROOM UNIT 901, 9TH FLOOR, 88 HING FAT STREET, CAUSEWAY BAY, HONG KONG (By appointment only)

publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. This issue marks TK’s one-year anniversary. We founded TK to celebrate the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs, and most delicious food, and it has been wonderful to see our readers and partners enthusiastically join us in that celebration. It’s been a true pleasure to meet all of the chefs, sommeliers, waiters, bartenders, farmers, vintners, vendors, restaurant owners, and everyone else who we’ve worked with and featured over the past year. This is a carnivorous issue – that means meat, and lots of it. To whet your appetite, we’re serving cocktails mixed by the world’s best bartender. After that we’re featuring beef on the bone, grass- and corn-fed beef, American and Australian and French and Irish beef, and beef cooked into classic French and Italian and Chinese dishes. We also have smoked ox tongue, Spanish ham cooked Chinese style, trotters stuffed with head meat, French lamb shoulder poached in olive oil, Bresse pigeon, roasted duck, duck livers and chicken livers with white truffle goose butter. To complement the dishes, we are pouring distinctive Shiraz and Burgundy wines paired by some of Hong Kong’s top chefs and sommeliers. If you were just in the mood for a salad – our apologies! Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

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chef’s note

Greetings from Tasting Kitchen. In this issue we are proud to partner with Le French GourMay to celebrate Bourgogne wine and cuisine in our feature “The Best of Burgundy.” Burgundy is said to be the heart of French cuisine, and every chef in France has a story about their first encounter. As a teenager I would travel every summer with my father to a restaurant in Burgundy called Nuits Saint Georges, which was famous for its elegant wine and earthy cuisine. After graduation I applied for my first job there. My father was thrilled, but it wasn’t the restaurant’s authentic recipes for Escargots de Bourgogne or Coq au Vin that I was after, but rather its beautiful sommelière. Life in Burgundy has a rural rhythm, and every Wednesday hunters in dark green vests would come to the restaurant loaded with fresh hare and bottles of Burgundy wine that they had selected to pair with their game. My first lesson as a chef was how to skin a hare; the second was how to make the hare specialty of the house: Civet de Lievre Ivre de Pommard aux baies de Cassis. On Saturdays we would marinate the hare for twelve hours in the hunters’ wine, and then use the same wine to prepare the sauce and serve with the dish. On Sunday mornings the hunters would return once again, this time to pick up the steaming pots of Civet de Lievre for their Sunday feasts. Mondays were off, but I spent them in the restaurant with my new friend as we sampled our way through the cellar, establishing my life-long fondness for the genuine people, honest food, and graceful wine of Burgundy.

JEAN ALBERTI

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contents T A S T I N G N E W S 16-26 Let It Breathe 28

• Slice of Life 30

Cooking with Miele 34 Seasonal Inspiration 40 Advanced Italian 52

•

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may 2013

Genie in a Bottle 36 •

Boning Up 48

Living the Dream 56

•

Choice Cuts 60

Floral Firmament 32

French Twist 42

•

contents

Red & Red 64

•

House of Meat 76

The Best of Burgundy 80 Spiritual Experience 90

•

Wine Detective 92

W H E R E T O F I N D T K 96

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100 may 2013

104

Mandarin Oriental, Macau

tastic location.

tastic dining.

tastic view.

tastic spa.

Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

For reservations call +853 8805 8822 or visit www.mandarinoriental.com

tasting news

ॵਜ਼౟໤

As Good as Gold MARCO POLO’S FABLED BOOK of travels may be behind the name

at the new Il Milione Bar & Ristorante Italiano, but it’s the man at the kitchen counter who’s responsible for introducing reﬁned Umbrian cuisine to Hong Kong diners. Chef Marco Gubbiotti is putting his own twist on his hometown’s cooking traditions with Catalunya Executive Chef Alain Devahive Tolosa

dishes like pan-fried pigeon breast on warm snow pea salad, and beef tartare accompanied by a puntarelle chicory and anchovies salad with deep fried egg yolk. Eschewing heavy cream and butter, Umbrian cuisine is focused instead on perfect produce, including truffles and the region’s famous olive oils. Known as liquid gold, they’re sure to make Gubbiotti’s menu shine. ᇵȘ మ ૰ ؉ ట ቍ ৔ ș ሃ ၭ ༚ ಚ ಛ ಚ ܿȘIl Milione Bar & Ristorante Italianoș቙ცࡰ໓‫ܐ‬૑ጀ , ᾉ૴૰ᇜჴ‫ܬ‬য়᎐‫ ڷ‬Marco Gubbiotti ‫ܕ‬ହܿሃ‫஀ܐ‬፩‫ؠ‬ၵ‫୴؝‬ᆊฏ (Umbria) ੴ፛࿅๾ல ୲ȃ Gubbiotti ๏ठয়ხ‫ۈ‬࿾െ‫ߴݲ‬໮ঽࢋเ࿅๾ , ‫ڵޤ‬๜࿧֊ ๞ࢀᄽᏫၫ೘ီ‫ޒ‬ຆଲ , Ὡὧໍ೾๗‫܋‬ിຆఊ‫݃ج‬௑เۖი๲‫ڞ‬ ܿ౟໤ȃၵ‫୴؝‬ᆊ໮ல୲‫؜‬Ꮦᇜֈሃ໮೉ቌ‫ݲ‬ၟড೾ቌ௸ღ , ߑ ᇵᏥ৞ܿ‫ܬ‬௑໤‫ إ‬, ๜མ௷ড‫ݓܬ‬቏ಚܿᩢᩀቌᏮၓ᎐ਲȃࡘ ฏྈٛܿᩢᩀቌ፣‫ݓ‬Ⴟ፛ , ଁࡥস৞ , ‫־‬ችၓ௚‫ॵܿވ‬ਜ਼ , ೙ၓ

॥ሬହܸղ๰௢ೆ

Bienvenidos a Barcelona

Gubbiotti ܿல୲ड़௝‫ݞ‬੯ȃ Il Milione Bar & Ristorante Italiano, G16-21, G/F, Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Road, Central, Hong Kong, ცࡰ፩०჋᮳ܻ10ख ञ৔‫ܐ‬჊‫ݓ‬჉G16-21, +852 2481 1120

HONG KONG’S HAUTE DINING scene welcomes a bit of Barcelona

with the recent soft opening of Catalunya Hong Kong. The 8,000 sq. ft. restaurant and bar offers the ambiance of Spain’s trendy tapas bars and the flavors of traditional Catalan dishes such as Spanish tortillas and Segovia-style roasted suckling pig. An extensive wine list and appropriately named cocktails (Flamenco Martini anyone?) along with modern versions of classic desserts like torrija bread pudding round out the experience.

ሡ‫ˈڞ‬නࠌ෸མˈ‫ڼ‬ம૰ᇵჴቂႠօᆃ࿅๾ᄆ໤ (tapas)ˈᇓ൰ ١ܾܸ‫ܫܻܿݓ‬શ (tortillas) ড๰ࡼၕᆊ໮૥๞ᎆ݃‫ۈ‬࿾ৠྖ௢ ೞᆊல୲ȃௐိˈ ȘCatalunyașᇓ቏࠘ࡐએ‫ࢌˈܠ‬໮‫ݲ‬એถಚ‫׳‬ ‫ڵ‬ᄩ‫ˈؤ‬ჸ໸ࠧ୏ಖࡼమ‫ݺ‬ೞખุเኛኛቺ༅ˈৠຢಅ֡‫ݺ؝‬ (torrija) ݃޹፯ო‫ۈ֋ܗ‬࿾‫ݞ‬ᄩˈᇜ۫఻Ꮪᾉ૴ܿྈ቏ᅍชȃ ȘCatalunyașცࡰ‫ݥ‬჉႐௜໢૑໭࢜ሥး‫ˈخ‬ᇓᇜ๜Ⴀօᆃ เး໤஧࿙ܿႷ࣒ˈሩᇖፊܸແᇚȃ Catalunya, G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong ცࡰူᏇՓฯܻ32खՓฯຟᇖ‫ܐ‬჊‫ݓ‬჉ +852 2866 7900

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Courtesy of Catalunya and Il Milione Bar & Ristorante Italiano

ಚ఻ภฉܿႠօᆃ‫خ‬࿩ȘCatalunyașጸ໮੣ૅცࡰ‫ৃݾ‬ሜ໤੒ˈ ุᾉ૴ᇜჴղ๰௢ೆ‫ܻݓ‬౟໤ȃ‫خ‬࿩ঽծྕฏዷ‫ ݓ‬8,000 ൶ߴ

tasting news

౟໮Ꮓၟ ᇜ۫఻Ꮪ

A Taste of America STEP INSIDE The Langham Hong Kong and

be transported to Europe. Step inside The Bostonian Restaurant in the hotel’s lower lobby and be transported across the pond to the United States. Besides top-notch cuts of meats including an Australian grain-fed cowboy ribeye, the restaurant features Boston lobsters served American style as well as American-sized portions.

The Bostonian ౟՛ࣴბ࿩ Lobby, The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong ৯ຆઠִੲܻ8खცࡰ୏࿭એ‫ݥ‬એ‫ ྰܐݥ‬+852 2132 7898

From the fully sustainable seafood selection, the chef lists one of his favorite dish-

‫؞‬๠ცࡰ୏࿭એ‫ ݥ‬, ျ๩፜ເഒ፷ , ᅰᎼ

፩୏࿭࿅፟ᆏᅯἲቢˈམ௷ঽ؉‫ج‬ຆଲᏫ

es as the Langham smoked salmon trufﬂe

߰‫ݥ‬჉‫ܐل‬࿩Ȃ‫ڗ༽ࣰۆ‬Ꮦ੣Ș౟՛ࣴბ

໠௔ਟ ‫ޕ‬໸᎐‫ܿڷ‬ೀ༇औ‫ج‬ȃ

crust, with spinach salad and pomegran-

࿩ș, ‫಼ۂ‬ྈঽቕ੪໸౟໮ࠞࢆȃ኷ۨ‫ڼ‬ம

‫خ‬࿩२࿎࢜࠘ࡐܿએ‫ܠ‬ঽፃಚܿዄ

ate dressing. The Bostonian’s famed

࢜ሥթ፷ 㕉 བ೾๗ᆞ೾ഠ݃‫ৃݾ‬೾ഠ , ᇓ

႐࿄‫ خ‬, ჴቂ࿷໢२቏ઽ໰๲፱Ꮧঽᄧ

brunch, complete with jazz trio, completes

૰ჴቂ౟໮؉໰޲௝Ⴡ‫خܐ‬ȃ‫ܬ‬ะ , ࠔ஢

ბ ఻ ‫ ج ෇ ܿ ݞ‬ຆ ଲ ծȃ Ⴙ Փ ౟ ໮ ࿅ ٛ ܿ

a whirlwind tour of the best of the U.S.,

ᇓ໸վࠍፇվ౟࣭ࠞࢆ , ખഝೠ‫! ဵ؜ړ‬

૴เ૰ᇵ኷ܾܸۨ఻Ꮪ , ‫ܬ‬ะ , ໢ُ‫ི؜‬

minus the jet lag.

Ș౟՛ࣴბ࿩șࢌ໮ࣴბ‫ج‬๾ሥ቏੪቏ , ඝ

ན‫ܐ‬᎐‫ ڷ‬࿷ྕპᇶ

Palate Education

኷೗ !

THE KITCHEN is getting crowded at Sha

of China. Sha Tin’s Chef Ngai is joined by

Tin 18 at Hyatt Regency Hong Kong. Four

Chef Situ of the Penthouse Restaurant at

superb Hyatt chefs have come together to

Grand Hyatt Guangzhou, Chef Liang of

create the menu for “A Taste of Pearl River,”

Song Shan Tea House at Hyatt Regency

showcasing the cuisine from three regions

Dongguan and a guest chef from the 1881 restaurant at Grand Hyatt Shenzhen. Diners will get a palate education in Guangzhou’s light and crisp dishes, the strong rural flavors of Dongguan cuisine, and the heat and spice of Sichuan food. The event runs May 20-June 9. ࣖ፶ࡐஉ૆አġġ‫ ܐ‬એ‫ݥ‬Șૼ፩ॗኍș፩‫خ‬࿩ ཌྷဈ਎ฟࡆ‫ڷ‬໗٣Ȃ‫ބ‬ᗣམຐॏ૔አએ‫ݥ‬ Șམຐ‫ى‬જș஝਌ࣖ᎐‫ڷ‬ঽହᏋແᕉ૆አએ ‫ݥ‬Ș1881ș፩‫خ‬࿩ܿ࿅ᆾ᎐‫ڷ‬Ꮾ૴቙ცࡰ ࿷ྕპᇶˈ܏ዉल଎፩࣭๲‫ܐ‬ฏቱ࿅๾ல ୲ܿȘ૔አಚ‫ڷ‬ঐᾉ૴ˈᎂਘվၟმხ฀ș ੴ౟‫ܠج‬ȃ ᾉ૴૰࿷໢൰١ࣖ፶‫ج‬෼༻ც‫ܿ۽‬౟ ၟȂ‫ބ‬ᗣ‫ܻݓܿج‬ხ‫܂‬ல୲ᇵঽცߑపଶ

Sha Tin 18 ຆ࿜18, 4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong ცࡰᄧ੒ຆ࿜ዐჰੁ18खຆ࿜૔አએ‫ݥ‬4௦ +852 3723 7932

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ܿན‫ۅ‬৞ᬗȃ ᎂਘվၟᆪˈ5 ኟ 20 ๊ፚ 6 ኟ 9 ๊ˈ‫؜‬๒‫ࣰ܊‬ȃ

courtesy of Sha Tin 18 and The Bostonian

ຆ࿜૔አએ‫ݥ‬Șຆ࿜ 18șˈቪ೜૜਌᎐‫ڷ‬

tasting news

ड़௝‫ݞ‬੯ ᇜྪ‫ޙ‬౤ਟፆէ౷

W H AT C O U L D C O N V I N C E steak lovers

The Secret’s In the Sauce

to pass up a traditional red wine, black pepper or mushroom sauce? At JW’s California at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong the answer is Executive Sous Chef Jordi Villegas’ restaurant-exclusive sauce. Chef Villegas created his custom sauce following a trip to the Saga prefecture of Japan in 2010. He noticed chefs there served meat with sides of soya sauce and ginger and asked his host if the ﬂavors would overpower the meat. “He explained because of the high fat content of the meat, it is important to complement it with a powerful sauce to balance the sweetness in the marbling,” recalls Villegas. “And he was totally right.” The seed was planted and Chef Villegas got to work. Drawing upon his European roots, he started with a classic mushroom sauce and then took it to the next level with Asian ingredients including shitake mushrooms, Japanese mirin, sake, red wine, Dijon mustard, dried chili and ginger. “It certainly brings out the meat ﬂavor even more,” he says. Today, he estimates more diners order his signature sauce than any other on the menu. For this Spanish-born chef now living in Hong Kong, it’s the perfect fusion of East and West. ᇋุ೾ഠ୔ᾉ౦ິඳ‫ۈ‬࿾ܿऽએȂफोਢ ড ໸ ಟ ࢰ ਟ ྥ ट ๒ ᇸ˛ ‫ ܦ‬ც ࡰ ွ ऑ એ ‫ݥ‬ ( JW Marriott Hotel)ȘJW’s ৠ፶‫خ‬࿩ș( JW’s California) ܿ ᄵ ጹ ᎐ ‫ ڷ‬Jordi Villegas ખ ቏ ֑ߟˈ൷੓ܿખ໸‫ޙ‬౤ܿ࿅፟ਟፆȃ Villegas ዕࡅׁ๊Ꮻऩჟˈ᎙ሃܸ‫ݓܬ‬ ‫ڷ‬໗Ⴗཱུ࣒ເֻᎼਟቌঽਕˈെ‫ݲ‬๗୥ல ୲ȃ ྊইჲ‫ܬ‬໢ང ˖ Ș໗ࡊೄ໢໸ང๗୥ࡐ ࣽፅߵˈਟፆၟܻᇋ፱ˈ‫ئ‬೙ቪቌፅ๵ߙ ܿც࿝‫܋‬ിܿࡪࡪऔȃྊངܿᇜ‫ޕݞ‬ౚ‫܊‬ȃș

์Ȃ๊໮ၟ஻Ȃ෼એˈᇵঽऽએȂߟ࣭‫ݕ‬ ๋ੑದȂ࡞ଶਢঽਕ݃‫إ‬லˈุਟፆܿ౟ JW’s California 5/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Paciﬁc Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong ცࡰਜ਼፬ܻ 88 ख྘ࢸࣖ٠ცࡰ JW ွऑએ‫ݥ‬ႎ௦ +852 2810 8366

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ၟ‫ܸ܌‬ภᄧ੼੒ȃ ‫ڵ‬ເႠօᆃˈოજცࡰ˗ Villegas ञਟፆ‫ޕ‬໸‫ބ‬Ⴀߴܿဵ౟ੌठȃ

Courtesy of JW Marriott

ੜ࿙ Villegas ᇵয়ხܿࠞၟၓ‫ˈݞߙڵ‬ ၓ‫ۈ‬࿾ಟࢰਟ᎙๠ᇜཎᆊ፷ኇཧˈৠ๠Ꭼ

tasting news

‫خ‬એ‫܋‬ി‫ڵ‬ᄧጋ ౟ၟ࿒ᆬ኶໐ৃ

A Perfectly Unexpected Pairing WINE GLASS company Riedel

and HK restaurant Madame Sixty Ate are teaming up for a new tasting menu, but not in the way one might expect. Not only will the Flavour Menu’s wine pairings be served in Riedel stemware, the food will as well. “We hope to unlock the subconscious and enlighten diners that the enjoyment of food is a sensory experience, just as it is with wine, that both smell and taste enhance the flavor,” says Suresh Kanji, General Manager of Town House which sells Riedel products. Courses include a Dungeness crab salad with pink grapefruit mousse, a

؋ṻ‫ۙݕ‬એቪ৞ᬗ ౟ၟႇฅ

Burgundy Wine and Dine

foie gras and mulled cherry parfait and mascarpone. With dishes so delicious,

THE BEST THINGS in life are worth waiting

౟಍ܿ໳႘ፎܾ݃‫ˈܚ‬௑เۖიܿ౟

who needs plates?

for, especially when they involve fantastic

໤ঽۙએ࢑໸௑เᄩໍჹ၄ȃცࡰ W

food and drink. Chef Bryan Lee of Sing Yin

߰‫ݥ‬ኞ‫خج‬࿩Șᄬᆪș‫ܬ‬য়᎐‫׿୳ڷ‬

է‫஀ݓ‬એְ‫ܐ‬ഡȘRiedelșቪცࡰഒ௾‫خ‬

Cantonese Dining at the W Hong Kong is

૜ထ‫ڵ‬ภᄧ࿄‫ˈخ‬඘ܻ౟໤Ȃ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬

࿩ȘMadame Sixty Ateșᄔ༇܏ዉ౟ၟ‫ܠج‬ȃ

proving that with a 7-course wine dinner

‫ৃݾ‬ऽએˈᇵঽॗຢ༮ᄆ໢ాࢗ‫ݬ‬Ꮈ

‫؜‬੡‫܋‬ിܿએ൰໪ቂȘRiedelșܿ‫ৃݾ‬એְˈ

featuring premium Burgundy vintages

ܿጋഡ‫୸ˈج‬ጿْຨ‫۽‬൝঳ˈ‫ޕ‬໸ุ

ખஏல୲ᇓ‫ޕ‬տ኷൰ഡ௑เຠᄩአ಼ܿએ

and a signature dish of lychee wood-

เ݃኶ઌ‫ޕ‬ᄩ࡟฀ንܿ౟ၟ৞ᬗȃ‫۽‬

ְ୴ˈყ‫ڵ׳ܬ‬ᄩ‫ؤ‬ȃ

fried crispy skin chicken that takes hours

൝঳੶ᇜጶးᬶ፟ॄˈᇵ߳ცܿ୸ጿ

ȘRiedelșცࡰ‫୲ܗ‬ຟፇᇜȘ֩ġġႆș(Town

to prepare. It’s seasoned overnight, then

಻Ȃ ๗ ࣣ ঽ ௝ ੷ ‫ ى‬ᇗ ၓ ᄢ ْ ຨ ૥ ߑ

ȘႪ၆೙ House) Ꮣ੶୲ Suresh Kanji ‫װ‬໯ ˖

roasted with aromatic lychee wood,

‫ڈ‬ȃ‫܋‬ിጝܻ৞ᬗˈ᎐‫ڷ‬ᅤዎܿ໸ߟ

໾߼૴เ෈ሃ໧ޭ቙౟໤ܿ૱ชȃჴ།౟

cinnamon and Longjing tea leaves. Chef

࣭؋ṻ‫ݕ‬๭ၕೞฏ௸ᇸଲဇએᎦ 2003

໤ખჸ൰એᇜᆼˈဃࣰᅆાঽၟા༺፱ࡥ

Lee believes he’s paired it perfectly with

೧ྈٛܿȘ؏ߐ‫ۥ‬৐ኗșऽએ (Louis

࣌࿒ᆬˈุၟܻ࢑ຢᇜ‫ل‬௦ȃș

a well-balanced Louis Latour Savigny les

Latour Savigny les Beaune, Hospices

Beaune, Hospices de Beaune 2003. “It’s a

de Beaune 2003)ȃ ྊ ໓ ኻ ጝ କ ؋ ṻ

߅ࡣቪცலሢ྿‫ˈࡷ׼‬ঽၫც‫଻ؾ‬ᗙᏫླྀ

very well balanced wine from a great year

‫ݕ‬ऽએ ˖ Ș2003 ೧ྈٛܿඈ྾࣮ცഃ

మ໰૏ൈඩཌྷȃܻܻ౟ၟ૰ଁˈ༼२࣏ܾ

that delights with a rich bouquet of red

ታˈ೭፟ߑ‫ܿڈ‬ऽએએ࿒൶ळȂႇᄝ

ம໸‫؜‬໸ቂധᏊᎧܿೕ˛

fruits,” he says. “A perfect match to bring

૰দˈਖ‫۽‬൝঳ܿၟܻሞ௏ܸௐᇜ‫ل‬

out the strong taste of this dish.”

۫ˈ໸ጝܻ‫ܿج‬Ꮵ৞ടܰȃș

࿄‫֡خ‬ଭॵਜ਼ᄜຆଲᏫࠒऽႠᨋ಺཈Ȃ

Madame Sixty Ate Shop 8, 1st Floor, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong ცࡰူ ᏇᎦ໰‫ܻޱ‬60खJ SENSES൶ྕ1௦8ख‫ ݥ‬+852 2527 2558

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

Sing Yin Cantonese Dining ᄬᆪ፩‫خ‬࿩ 1/F W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd W, Hong Kong ცࡰ૩໰‫ܻݤ‬ႠᇜखცࡰWએ‫ݥ‬1௦ Promotion Period: May 1- May 31, 2013 ထ๊ࣖඓ˖2013೧5ኟ1๊ˉ5ኟ30๊ +852 3717 2848

Courtesy of Madame Ate and W Hotel

warm vanilla blueberries with whipped

tasting news

ඟኒ೎ܾ Ꮓၟ࿝౟

Sweet Serendipity S O M E I N V E N T O R S spend years toiling

away on their creations. Others stumble upon something amazing completely by chance. Case in point: Dulcey, the world’s first blonde chocolate, was the result of a forgetful Valrhona chef putting some lvoire chocolate in a bain marie and walking away. Ten hours later the chocolate had transformed into a creamy

www.valrhona.com

blonde creation with flavors of toasted biscuits, caramelized milk and a hint of

‫࢙ڈ‬໢٢ᅍᇋ޹೧ଇ࡞໦Ꮾ ˗‫ܦ‬቏໢ႇᄩ

ᇜཎდၟˈሓġġኒ ৗঐ჉ዉખமภฉ‫ݕ‬ᇜࢋ

salt. Valrhona engineers later replicated

‫ن‬௛ˈษ૰೙ٛໍሃჲ‫ܸܿ؜‬ੳႹ‫࣮ڈ‬ȃ

ਜ਼ॵ෠૲உȘDulceyșȃ৉༦᎟য়ॄਖȘሃ

the recipe on a large scale, allowing the

ᇵ჉ખ໸Ꮵ৞ஂጽ ˖‫ৃݾ‬෠૲உ൰ഡȘߟ

ိፇᏮșᎡफ़ၓ৿‫ܠ‬૰ᄵܿ፟Ꮾ௚‫ˈڋ‬቙

world to sample the chef’s mistake in an

ᖊ೅ș(Valrhona) ܿ‫ڷ‬໗ರ۫նռ෠૲உ

໱੒ࢌ‫ܐݓ‬஢ໍٛˈ‫ڈ‬ၓȘߟᖊ೅șܿጋ

exquisite Dulcey chocolate. Serendipity

၇኷ࢉ༽ৠ฽ܿ૥௰ຢˈໟᄆ໢ࣰॄ෠૲

ഡ෠૲உፇᇜȃ๜ۨඟኒ૰ት‫؜‬૰ชˈ࿝

never tasted so sweet.

உ๵ߙ‫ڵ‬૥‫࡞؀‬ঽਤྴ೾೉ܿცනˈৠຢ

౟Ꮓၟ௑เ೎၇ȃ

ภᄧ৛‫׹‬ᅞ ཌเᾆᆪ‫ྰݩ‬

Grand Club, Grand Dining

sitting. Macau’s heritage not only plays into the flavors but also into the black walnut wood and marble décor of the Grand Club. Turns out it’s not lonely at the top, it’s downright decadent. թ౤૆አએ‫ݥ‬૰ང໸ภฉᾉ૴౦ܿ౟໤࿙ ྰȃภᄧ૑ಸܿȘ৛‫׹‬ᅞș(Grand Club) ᅀપ એ‫ݥ‬৛‫׹‬࿩‫ܐ‬௦‫لݾ‬๲ໟ඘௦ , ࠞࢆ໢ຣȂ࠵ ႚႇᄝ૰দ , २૰ᇜჴ߰‫خܐࢌݥ‬࿩ܿ ጋഡ ‫ج‬๾ , ᇜჴᏧ๎ܿཌเቂ‫خ‬࿒ᆬȃ۰ Șmezza9ș ‫خ‬࿩ცන඄‫ྍܿ׊‬໰మೞᆊὥἲ ቢᏫࢇᶤȂ Ș఻ྰ‫ث‬ș(Beijing Kitchen) ִܿ ੲ૥ᅿܸ‫ܐ‬

sustainable Tasmanian salmon trout with

Ș৛‫׹‬ᅞș‫؜‬੡࢜ሥ‫ࠞߴݓ‬ၟܿ౟ ၟ৞ᬗ ,

at the Grand Hyatt Macau. The newly

clams from mezza9 Macau, Peking duck

ᇵफ๾ज྿಻ঽ‫୲ܐ‬໠ၓন‫ܿݲ‬೗ ‫ؠ‬Ꭷᢧᇓ

unveiled Grand Club on the 37th floor

from Beijing Kitchen and traditional local

‫ࠍڣ‬ዴოթ౤ܿၭफ़࿅๾ȃࡴ‫؜ ؃ۃ‬໕ࣿ ,

of the Grand Club Tower offers not only

tastes from the Lobby Lounge all in one

቏ܿፔ໸௑เᄩᏤໄ౳ܿ‫ৃݾ‬ᾆᆪȃ

superior service and style but also private dining featuring a combination of signature dishes from the hotel’s top eateries. Savor

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may 2013

Grand Club ৛‫׹‬ᅞ 37th ﬂoor, Grand Club Tower, Grand Hyatt, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau թ౤௸ૣஏࣔ࢞௸ᄧᣄ࿙‫ݓ‬թ౤૆አએ‫ݥ‬37௦ +853 8868 1234

Courtesy of Valrhona and Grand Hyatt

࿩એ୍ܻܿ‫ݓ‬թ໮౟ၟ , ኷ۨ࿳ ࿳ᇜ۫఻Ꮪȃ IT’S A BIT OF HEAVEN on earth for foodies

Valrhona - France - 26600 Tain l’hermitage - valrhonapro.com Valrhona Inc - 45 Main Street, Suite 1054 - Brooklyn, NY 11201 - T: 718 522 7001 EMAIL: valinc.customerservice@valrhona.fr To learn more about Dulcey and discover unique recipes, visit www.valrhonaprofessionals.com

VALRHONA ASIA PACIFIC - HONG KONG REPRESENTATIVE OFFICE 10A Prosperous Commercial Building - 54 Jardine’s Bazaar Street, Causeway Bay - HONG KONG Tel:+852 3590 3262 - Fax:+852 3590 4955 - Email: ofﬁce.hongkong@valrhona.fr

tasting news

၉ೞ཈เඈ྾એ౟໤੅ ᆾ೷૑ॢ٨ሜ

Venetian Vino THERE WILL BE a simple but wonderful

support from the Macau government, will

ੜ೧༈‫ޡ‬ઢ֑ܿ 2013 թ౤ඈ྾એ౟໤੅ˈ

rhythm guiding the first annual Macau

highlight crisp whites and full-bodied reds

ਖ኷ᇜࢋ৿‫ߑܠ‬౟಍ܿ੅Ꮧሞ௏჉฽೓݂

Wine & Dine Festival 2013: wine, tapas,

from countries around the world at nearly

٠ ˖౟એȂ౟໤Ȃ౟એȂ౟໤ ……ȃ‫د‬ৠ

repeat. Guests at the event will sway to

thirty wine tasting booths.

ঝ‫ܿވ‬ହ‫׹‬ਖ૰ཱུᎼթ౤၉ೞ཈เܿሕ୛

Additional vendors will offer Span-

੅ട੪฀ᇂտˈডᅒᏥॄஏਰ‫؞‬ᇓỢỂம

Set to take place around the exotic

ish-style small plates, while a special

Venetian Lagoon, the festival is part of the

Wine School will help guests elevate

թ౤ඈ྾એ౟໤੅ਖ኷‫఻ڣ‬ል࣭฀‫ݲ‬

extravagant month-long Italian Carnevale

their knowledge and appreciation of all

ܿ၉ೞ཈เเࢗॏᆛ՛ዴ૑ˈጝ໸၉ೞ཈

at the resort. The four-day event, orga-

types of wines, vintages and perfect food

เ৛೧ख़ঐ٣‫܌‬ᇜࢋኟঝ‫ވ‬፩ܿᇜ‫ˈࠍؠ‬

nized by The Wine Society of Macau with

pairings.

ၓඓན࿙ˈቈթ౤ᆶએᄒঐ᎐֑ˈթ౤ጹ

ඩହȃ

ࡃ ኻ ᎓ȃ ঝ ‫ ވ‬ਤ ‫ ݞ‬໸ ହ Ꮛ ໱ ੒ ࢌ ࣭ ਖ ੧ The Venetian® Macao-Resort-Hotel թ౤၉ೞ཈เ‫ޡ‬০‫܂‬એ‫ݥ‬ ġ Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, s/n, Taipa, Macau ġ թ౤၆ܽ໖ವူ‫ܐ‬మ௸௸ૣਜ਼ࣕ‫ ܻܐ‬+853 2882 8888

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may 2013

๲ໟࢋ൰એྜၤˈ࿎࢜ࢌ፯ऽռඈ྾એˈ २቏Ⴀօᆃࠞၟᄆ‫ˈړ‬൰એ૵݃݃ᇜႼள ঝ‫ވ‬ȃ

Wine photograph courtesy of The Venetian Macao

the tempo at The Venetian Macao.

luxury living

६ᄶ‫ڀ‬༾ܿએც

let it breathe n Ivresse Des Bois Decanter Red Stopper Baccarat collaborated with Marcel Wanders to blend function and imaginative design (that’s Wanders’ head featured on the stopper). ቈBaccarat‫ڵ‬൰ˈMarcel Wandersົ৓ܿᄶએධˈ๏ ठ໦ቂቪ౟࣎༺፱࿅๾(ऽ ๾൸๰ၓWanderᄉჸ)ȃ HKD $7,800 +852 2895 6001 www.baccarat.com

o Eve Decanter Perfect during the Year of the Snake, Riedel’s sleek serpent double decants wines. Riedelထ‫ܿڵ‬௚ღᄲᄶ એධˈ໸፩࣭ໍᄉາ೧ ሃჺܿဵ౟‫ډ‬ოȃ HKD $4,720

+852 2845 0633

www.townhouse.com.hk

p Big Heart Decanter Handblown by French artist Etienne Meneau, it’s one of just eight in the world. ቈߟ࣭༽ੰᇶ༦য় Etienne Meneau‫ཫے‬፟ Ꮾˈภฉქ஢հᏠȃ HKD $48,888 +852 2954 9922 www.amoeno.com

q Owl Decanter A highly technical creation by Lalique that’s a work of art whether empty or ﬁlled. ସᑦࡴ૭৉ܿົ৓ˈ໪ ᄶએධ‫؜‬੡໦ቂˈᇓ৳ નᇶ༦൰տົ২ፎȃ HKD $14,660 + 852 2259 6641 www.lalique.com

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may 2013

luxury living

໢ຣໍঝཎཎఆఆ

slice of life

Global G-5 Vegetable Knife

Blades of the Gods: Cupak & Grantang

Porsche China Knife

Kramer NW Winter Damascus

Carved handles depict the Balinese legend of good versus evil.

The revered automobile maker steers into the kitchen with this stainless steel blade.

The blade pattern of this custom knife makes it both functional and an objet d’art.

ܱ‫ົ׽‬৓ኑ቙ղ୴ܵಐৱࢽ໳ଉ ജ૲ञࢅୁྰ(Cupak & Grantang)ˈ ჺጲᄕߊቪጸሆܿޭ፞ȃ

‫ৃݾ‬ප‫ࢗٴ‬ᇶ֦໢ੈ଎੒‫߶ڷ‬ ቂ൰ፇᏮˈᇵ‫؜‬ᅇ࡫ܱᏮၓ ੣๠য়જ௏ቱܿ‫װܗ‬Ꮾȃ

ܱનົ৓ੴ፛ˈܱເ࿷໢ ৳ન໦ቂঽ౟࣎ȃ

USD $4,670

HKD $1,600

+1 360 455 4357

www.bladesofthegods.com

+852 2522 4128

www.kramerknives.com

Perfectly weighted to slice and dice with ease. ᇜ࿒‫ڈ‬ᄳȂ࠲ठเ࿒ࢗᅪܿົ ৓ˈุ෧‫ج‬ᇓ೙भ෸མᏋ኷ȃ HKD $975 +852 2523 1672 www.pan-handler.com

www.porsche-design.com

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may 2013

USD $500 per blade inch

ॗঋૼৱ

ﬂoral ﬁrmament

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may 2013

luxury living

THE ARCHED CEILING at Sevva has burst

into bloom. Owner Bonnae Gokson has used more than 20,000 silk flowers to create a floral Sistine Chapel: five species of roses nestle among peonies and lilies; delicate orchids and tendrils of greenery hang down; and hydrangeas and lilies all contribute to the bright canopy above the dining room. Gokson, whose background is in the luxury and fashion industries, designed the dome to feed guests’ visual appetites. She says she can’t really pick a favorite flower – each has its own special charm. All together, the effect is glorious. “Flowers have color and life and energy,” says Gokson. “They attract positivity and enhance the state of well being.” ွᏆ඾ऽܿ޽޽ॗঋ໓૑቙ SEVVA ‫خ‬࿩ܿ ࢣᄳ࿙ॗ֊ˈ‫خ‬࿩‫֑ۑ‬เ࣬ፗ៺ (Bonnie Gokson) ቂ஠ွ޹޽ཎॗˈ܏ዉ‫ߨڵ‬ॗཕ ੠ཕႠ཈࿬਷ྰܿ‫خ‬࿩౟੹ ˖ಲ‫ܟ‬ञվठ ፇৱ‫ݞ‬ᎱᎼႎ፯‫؜‬࿷ܿ౔ࣘ ˗ਪࣦܿୁॗ ञ೘఍ܿશᅐᏋะۖᅡ ˗ᅊฉॗቪվठॗ ၓ‫خ‬࿩ዓ࿚ख़୻ܿಖதȃ ‫ڵ‬ເ໢ຣੴ൰ٛᇖܿ࣬ፗ៺ˈ෮Ꮛົ ৓‫خ‬࿩ܿॗঋࢣ‫఻ˈݾ‬Ꮪ‫ܿ૴׹‬༄ાቺ၆ˈ ྌངࢎׁႇߟ࿡‫ڵ‬ᏥႹՓܿॗˈሓၓ౞޽ ॗ‫ޕ‬቏Ꮛেܿ‫ޙ‬࿅὿உˈਖྌ౦়ੌᇜ‫ˈۃ‬ ૰ᇵ౟ܾႇ૰ᆗቶȃ Șॗ޽๾‫ث‬ბᆡˈન቏ໍಛஉቪ೙஢ˈș ࣬ፗ៺ངܻȃȘྌ౦૰ᇵ঱ߙጸಅ฀ᅜˈ ቏ሇ਌૜ȃș may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

inspired living

ቪMieleᇜඩെ᪢

cooking with miele Upon learning that Miele’s fourth generation family owners Dr. Markus Miele and Dr. Reinhard Zinkann would be visiting Hong Kong, TK seized the opportunity to put their product knowledge and experience to the ultimate test: a hands-on cooking demonstration in the Private Lounge by Miele. Chef Esther Sham of Ta Pantry was enlisted to walk them through a signature dish from her private kitchen, newly relocated and reopened in North Point.

§ ܾፃ࣭ܽ‫ڷৃݾ‬ન൰ഡȘMieleș‫ݕ‬ན

‫ܗ‬য়Ꮬ৙‫ڏ‬เ เMarkus Miele؊໰ঽ ঽReinhard Zinkann؊໰ᇋହცࡰˈTKတެ‫ܬ‬ ะ‫؜‬೙‫ࣰ܊‬ጝࢋ঩ঐହࢋ፮স‫ૣܐ‬ᆬˈ૛ྊ౦ޭ቙Ꮛয়ٛ൰ᄹ೙ྈፃܸ‫ݒ‬቏ ޹ຬ˖኷ ኷Miele࿒ᆬ࣐෮Ꮛ჉‫ڷ‬໯߭ȃᏥ੧‫ئ‬቙ცࡰִਲ፱ᄧ૑ጀܿፃಚཌ‫ڷ‬ ȘTa Pantryș᎐‫ڷ‬ ‫ڷ‬Esther Shamዏ஼၌།ಛˈ࿷ହቪ஠ၤ‫ކ‬໳ᇜඩ‫ܐ‬ዴເ༇ȃ

TK: Please tell us about the dish you will be teaching Dr. Miele and Dr. Zinkann.

Esther Sham: The foie gras tamago cus-

tard is one of my signature dishes from the Japanese menu of my private kitchen. It has the same egg base as the traditional chawanmushi, but instead of putting things in the egg, I put them on top. I always like to combine different textures and add something that gives you a flavor kick. Here the sautéed mushrooms give you the kick, and the foie gras cream foam combined with the egg is silky smooth.

Reinhard Zinkann: In fact, when we came

out with the steam cooker, nobody else thought this would be a successful product because there was nothing in the market. The only steam cooking known was the very old Asian way. But it turned out that more and more people liked steam cooking for nutrients, taste and faster cooking. Now we have the sixth or seventh generation product. We have the longest experience in the market and we’re working on the next generation already. It’s always a step-by-step improvement. We originally had a smaller oven cavity. And we had good feedback from Europe, but not from Hong Kong because here they steam the whole fish. Before, in the smaller cavity, you had to bend the fish. And once you bend it and steam it, it will never be straight again. MM:

How does the equipment factor into your cooking? TK:

It’s important that the steam doesn’t escape. If the steam and temperature are not persistent and steady, then it really affects the cooking. Steamed eggs are very delicate and sensitive. On my home court, I know exactly how many minutes will make the dish perfect. But when I do outside catering, I don’t know how the stove is and I always have to make adjustments on the timing. ES:

Markus Miele: We have chefs work here

at the Private Lounge all the time, and after they work with our steam oven, they say it’s unbelievable how precise the temperature is.

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

ES:

Steamed fish doesn’t look nice bent.

Now the oven has a very large cavity. And you also have control in the process, timing-wise and temperature-wise. MM:

How do you think these eggs have turned out?

TK: ೷ ᇋ ਷ Miele ঽ Zinkann ؊ ໰ Ꮽ ໣ ౓

‫˛ج‬ Esther Sham: ߅ࡣਟተᏊ‫ࡷܫ‬໸ၻཌ‫ܿڷ‬

๊໮ጋഡ‫ˈج‬ቪ‫ံى‬ጯᇜᆼᇵ঳‫ܫ‬ၓ‫ˈݒ‬ ‫ܦ‬ყል‫ۃ‬໸ၻ‫؜‬኷‫ܫ‬ᇛ୴ৠலˈߑ໸߼኷ ᏥຢಅȃၻႹ॥ሩዉ޹‫ˈࡥଁ۫ل‬ৠፇᇵ ௑เߓ಼ᇜᄧܿࠞၟȃც৲ᇑࢰ኷ጝܻ‫ج‬ ፩ખ֌ᆠጝࢋ࣋ਉਲ๾ˈ኶๏ठ߅ࡣਟ೉ സঽ‫ܫ‬ᇛˈ‫ړ‬ඩହ๜ཎֈज़གȃ TK: ‫ ڷ‬ન ኷ െ ᎌ ࣰ ‫ ڋ‬፩ ֌ ᆠ ໣ ౓ ᆼ ܿ ਲ

๾˛ ES: ֦ௗጯන໸໕ࡏ࣋ਉፇᇜȃጯන๜࣮ ໢޹໢ຬȂডၫ‫ޕށ؜݈ࡴޡ‬ঐሯჳጝܻ ‫ܿج‬፣஢ȃጯ‫ܫ‬ᅍᇋ߾٢ᄆᄩೀ೰ˈ‫؜‬೙ ቏ཎऒُ‫ڗ‬ȃ኷Ꮛয়‫ܿ߶ڷ‬य़ˈጯᎌᇋ৅ ࠍ፬ၻᇜ෼ߗ‫ܦ˗ ڽ‬኷ိಅˈቂܿ໸‫؜‬༝ Ⴋܿ௰નˈ໢ৱખᇋ༄฀ଝ‫ݲ‬ጶȃ

Markus Miele: ၻ౦٢ᆾ‫؜‬࿷‫ڷ‬໗ହၻ౦

ጝ୴෮Ꮛ࿒ᆬȃMiele ጯ௰ၫ‫ށົޡ‬ፇੴᎳˈ Ꮣุྊ౦ኻ‫ଁુ؜‬ȃ Reinhard Zinkann: ‫ڴܬ‬ጯ௰ᇜထ‫ܿڵ‬໢

ृˈ୔໦ང‫ܐ‬য়‫؜ޕ‬૛औˈ༁٠ຢᇓౚ቏ ࿷୥ٛ൰ȃངܸጯᎌܿ‫ڷ‬નˈᇜֈፔঐჲ ܸᆊ፷ೄ፯‫ۈ‬࿾ጯ௠ȃ‫ॄܦ‬ହሓၓጯ௰૰ ᇵ ֦ ௗ ໤ ႘ ᆻ ࠍ ঽ ኊ ၟȂ െ ᎌ ໒ ໢ ݃ ቄ ‫ݞ‬།ܸ෷ᰄˈᄁ༌ᇓᎉਐຢܻࣟȃ໢ፚੜ ๊ˈၻ౦ᇲ੶ထ‫ݕڵ‬௜່ፚ‫ݕ‬඘‫ܗ‬ٛ൰மȃ Miele ጯ௰኷༁٠ຢ੶ሩ໢ৱᏥઌˈᏥᄧᇜ ‫ܗ‬ጯ௰ᇓጸ኷ᆓߙ‫ܬ‬፩ˈ‫ި؜‬ੴሇชੴȃ MM: ኊົ৓ܿ‫ۓ‬ძૼৱ਺ᄆˈཱིะ኷ഒ፷ ༁٠ইჳ‫؜ܦˈ܊؜‬ຬცࡰࢾ૴ษાܾ቏ ྈ‫؜‬Ꮪȃ኷ცࡰ‫ܐ‬য়Ⴗ࣒ጶ࿢ቢ߼੣࣫୴ ጯˈᇵ෇‫ۓ‬ძ൤ᄆܿ໢ृˈቢ२ᇋ጖ඩହ ‫ܾ߼ئ‬੣บȃጝᆼጯဵˈቢܿᄳᎫᇓই‫؜‬ ହமȃ ES: ጖ࣰܿቢጯ‫ڵ‬ହ‫؜‬औ૛ȃ MM: ო኷‫ۓ‬ძૼৱଔ٧ˈጯᎌࣰ‫ڋ‬፩‫࣏؜‬ ໸໢ৱডၫ‫ޡ‬ጁ૿‫ޕ‬೙ᇜ༇᎜ȃ

TK:

ES:

Perfectly steamed!

TK: ጯ‫࣮ڈܫ‬๜ट˛ ES: ႇᄝ૰দʽ

tasting notes

൸፩ੴௌ

genie in a bottle Just off a flight, in the middle of a busy tour of the Asia Pacific region, the world’s greatest bartender exudes warmth and speaks with easygoing confidence. Exactly the sort of man you want to serve you a drink. More than 15,000 hopefuls from around the globe compete annually for the title of World Class Bartender of the Year. In 2012, Tim Philips saw off every last one of his competitors.

§ ቏Ș‫ݲ‬એ੒է཈૏ș౟ችܿȘWORLD CLASS໱੒‫ݾ‬৯‫ݲ‬

એ໗‫ܐ‬๱ș౞೧Ⴅሞ٫ࣰᇜွႎ඾ಚହᏋࢌ‫ܿݓ‬ᇜ௚‫ݲ‬એ໗ઃᎉˈթ፷ ‫ݲ‬એ໗Tim Philipsᇜ௸ࣰ࣋ዱਖˈርܾ 2012೧ภฉᏓ࣍ૅܿ༓๎ȃጝၤ ภฉᏥ‫ݾ‬৯ܿ‫ݲ‬એ‫ܐ‬໗࿅‫ݓ‬኷੟۲ܿᆊ྘‫ݓ‬ฏᅵইᄵ‫ڋ‬፩‫ˈૼڨ‬჉ࠀ঩ ‫؜‬ઌ‫צ‬ਾ།TKኰፗܿ᎟ߺȃᏋᄪษቕऒႇ৩ᏊˈTimࢍเၫഊܿࡥાˈ ང໸౞ࢋเ‫ޕ‬ჲትܸܿ౭ॲએ֦ᇓ‫؜‬ၓࣰȃ

What makes a great bartender great? Being a great bartender isn’t just about the drinks you make. One of the bartenders I admire the most – this might sound strange – is Mo from the Simpsons. He is one of the grumpiest, most cynical men on the face of the planet but he’s always there for you. I kind of admire that. Having a good personality and a good sense of hospitality are the best attributes you can have as a bartender.

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

Explain what you mean by a good sense of hospitality. It’s about understanding your duty to care for, to look after your guests. Alcohol is a drug you need to respect both when dispensing and consuming it. Guests should feel welcome, have an enjoyable experience, and not consume too much. Humility is important too. No matter how good you get as a bartender, you have to remember you are in a service industry. If you start forgetting that

‫ݾ‬৯‫ݲ‬એ໗ܿ୼ࣷፇ‫ۃ‬኷ು˛ ᇜၤ‫ݾ‬৯‫ݲ‬એ໗ܿቪ፳‫؜‬࿷‫؜؃‬ፔ኷ ቙೙‫ڵޤ‬ᇜ௚ܿ঳ၛએȃၻࢋเᏥᆹ಺ܿ‫ݲ‬ એ‫ܐ‬໗ፇᇜˈ ངமೠ૰೙‫؜‬ყᄪˈ ໸૏࿳Șᄦ ඎ຀য়࿰ș୴ܿ୔ಧȃྊࢋᄹࢸࣉߑ޹ᇪˈ ษቕ౞౞኷Ꮵᅍᇋܿ໢ृ֎ೠເ‫ˈע‬ངጡ ܿ఻‫ڦ‬ւܿȃ቏औܿเࢆ࿅፣෩‫૴ܚܾއ‬ ፇܻ૰ང໸ເၓ‫ݲ‬એ໗ܿᏥ৞࿢਋ȃ ૰ᇵངᇜ჉‫૴ܚ‬ፇܻ໸໣౓ሃཋఱ˛ ‫૴ܚ‬ፇܻખ໸‫ࠍڣ‬ፃܻࡘ๜टਾ‫؃ܚ‬ ጐࢾ૴เȃએખჸᇊᇜᆼˈ‫૴ࢍޤ‬เञሜቂ ܿ໢ृ‫ޕ‬ᇋᄩ‫੽܃‬ሃȃ૴เׁହખࡘ቏ባአ ܿ࿒ᆬˈ໻‫ޡ‬ሜએˈࡥા‫׹‬ፚ๜ࣜȃ࿷໢ෂ ᅺᇓ໸भ፱ᇋܿྙ‫ޡ‬ȃ‫࣏؜‬໸޹୼ࣷܿ‫ݲ‬એ ໗ˈ้ᇋ৔᎘Ꮛে໸࠵ႚᇖܿᇜ኎ȃ๜࣮ն ጝ‫ݞ‬ലᎇ೑ॄˈ࠵ႚ૴เ૑໭‫؜ܾק‬ೊߪܿ य़ˈ૰೙ખ‫؜‬໻ठ኶‫ܚ‬჉บமȃเࢆ࿅፣Ȃ ‫૴ܚ‬ፇܻঽෂᅺ‫ޕ‬቏மፇॄˈ‫ئ‬೙੣ᇜ‫؞‬บ ྥ๜ट֔૴เ‫ݲ‬એȃնၾጝ๲ࢋ፱‫ئݞ‬೙৙ ᅝ၄‫ݾ‬৯‫ݲ‬એ໗಼ܿ‫׭‬శ੣ȃ ਾ჉ହጡܿྥྥ‫ݲ‬એ๜ट˛ ‫ݕ‬ᇜ۫‫ݲ‬એ໸኷ൎቐܿએծˈ‫ܬ‬໢኷ ೄ‫౅֔ע‬ȃ૴เङએܿ໢ृၻዹ኷ծྕ‫؝‬ ஔॄߴٍ࣎ˈ૛ܸྊ࢏ൎቐ‫ݞ‬ဂ‫װ‬໯‫ˈ܊؜‬ ‫ܬ‬჉ೄ኶৿‫ވࣰܿ؜ܠ‬Ꮾุၻ఻ᄩ॥Ⴙȃ ௜඘೧ॄၻࢗᏮܿ‫ߴݓ‬໸ภฉᏥ֙ܿએծ

tasting notes

“ My girlfriend spent thousands of dollars doing a psychology degree. I think I’ve earned mine for free.” ၻܿഉൎቐॗம৅඾౟ਜ਼ખ‫ޚ‬ᄩ୲ᅪၤˈ ၻษ૰ᇵ౞࿙ຢܸಁࠈܿ૵ȃ” and becoming jaded by serving people, then it’s time to move on. After saying personality, hospitality, and humility, at this stage you haven’t even served someone a drink. If those three things are right, you go a long way towards being a great bartender. What about when you do make a drink? I remember making my first cocktail, while working at a friend’s pub. I stood behind the curtain of the bar watching the customer drink it, and saw him nod his approval to a friend. That simple nod filled me with joy. Six or seven years later, working at one of the best cocktail bars in the world, there I was, standing behind the bloody curtain, looking out just like I had seven years earlier, hoping to get that same nod of approval. It’s something that still drives me today and keeps me in the industry. Are you good at reading people? My girlfriend spent thousands of dollars doing a psychology degree. I think I’ve earned mine for free. I guess you see the best and the worst of people working behind a bar. Reading body language is part of being a great bartender, not only to make a judgment about which drink to recommend, something tall and refreshing or a bit more direct, but also to read when they are uncomfortable or whether perhaps they have had too much. It’s all part of the job. What inspires you? Pop culture. Things that are cool or kitsch. I always pay homage to classic methodology though. A classic method put into

a contemporary use. I won the Australian bartender of the year in 2011 with a drink based around a classic formula which was basically gin with citrus and a bittering agent. I realized that you can change the flavor to balance it out. I purposefully made the drink a little bit sour and a little bit bitter. Then I made this bubblegum out of lemon lime and gin which was too sweet. The too-sweet gum with the too-sour drink combined perfectly. I am driven by service and flavor. By flavor I mean really paying attention to the seasons. Australian and global chefs have been going on about buying seasonally and fresh for years. At my bar, Bulletin Place in Sydney, if we get a delicious tray of figs in from our provider that morning and we can only make fifteen drinks with those figs – once they’re gone, they’re gone. We don’t do strawberries in the middle of winter. We buy only from New South Wales. And you know what? This isn’t a fad. This is how it’s going to have to be. If you are a bar and you are buying apple puree from France and you are in Tasmania where apples are on your doorstep it’s just lazy and expensive. I’d much rather buy fresh seasonal produce to bring costs down and be able to put better quality alcohol into drinks. What does the future hold for you? I will always have one finger in the hospitality pie, but at the same time I am 28 and there are other passions that drive me. Bartending is a portable skill – most countries have bars. People drink in the good times and people drink in the bad times.

ፇᇜˈ࿷ᆼખ኷‫؝‬ஔॄ၄ိ૛ˈ࢏඘೧෇ ౚ቏஠ᆼˈᇜᄩඓഩܿખ໸ೄ‫ܿށ૶װܗ‬ ‫ݞ‬ဂȃೄጸ໸ด໪ၻഇஉፚੜȂ৙ᅝௗ኷ ᇖ੒ܿ‫ވ‬உହኑȃ

ೠभঐ૛เఱ˛ ၻഉൎቐॗம৅඾౟ਜ਼ખ‫ޚ‬ᄩ୲ᅪၤˈ ၻษ૰ᇵ౞࿙ຢܸಁࠈܿ૵ȃ኷ծྕࢗᏮˈ ૰ᇵ૛ܸเ౦Ꮵऔ࢏Ꮵዀܿᇜಅȃऔܿ‫ݲ‬ એ໗ᇋ‫ܾއ‬๜ट੍‫ޚ‬ፄ࿒ቮᆗˈ‫؜‬੡ߴ‫צ‬ ထਃ໻ठ૴เܿએକˈഫި໸ᇋ෼ᄧ‫֤ܨ‬ ܿড໸۩঱ᇜ‫ˈܿݞ‬࿷໢ᇓ૰ᇵ૛‫૴ڵ‬เ ໸ࠨ‫؜‬༗࠵ˈ२໸ङ྘޹மȃጝ‫ޕ‬໸ၻ౦ ࢗᏮܿᇜ‫ࠔؠ‬ȃ ௌࡥହኑ໸໣౓˛ ၻܿௌࡥହᏋ௚ᄵၭफ़ˈߩ໸ଈ᭲ড ࿳ ས ܿ ၻ ‫ ޕ‬Ⴙ Փȃ ၻ ᇓ Ⴙ ॥ ჹ ੶ ‫ ݟ‬ത ‫ݲ‬ એ፛੽ˈਖ੶‫ߟݲݟ‬ቪ‫ܗܬ‬࿅๾ყੌठȃ 2011 ೧ၻೀ჉թ፷೧‫ޡ‬Ꮵ৞‫ݲ‬એ໗ܿᏮ ൰ˈࢬཋખ໸ହᏋࢸ‫ݲݟ‬એߟ ˖෰એৠຢ ࡡᩬঽଇੴȃ‫ܬ‬໢ၻ२‫ݲ‬ጶமၟุܻᏮ൰ ጶ࿒࢑ၓᄒ‫ˈݲ‬ၻ૳ሃਖએ‫ܿݲ‬ວວ൤཰ ঽ။ଇˈะॄቂ೸౩ସ಴ঽ෰એᏭ‫ڈ‬࿝ၟ ່፱ܿസസྴȃ࿝ܸ‫؜‬ᄵܿസസྴ‫܋‬ി཰ ཰ଇଇܿ‫ݲ‬એጸ໸࿙Ꮾፇठȃ ޭ቙࠵ႚ፣஢ঽၟܻܿᎮชᇓᇜፊ໸ ၻܿ‫ވ‬உȃၟܻޭၻߑᆗቪো੅቏౻‫؜‬૰ ࠍܿ࣋Ⴜȃթ፷ঽภ໱੒ܿ‫ڷ‬໗౦࿎٪ࢭ ళ‫ܬ‬௑ঽᄧბ໤‫إ‬ᇲ੶ᄵፇ቏೧ȃખೀၻ ࢗᏮܿએծˈᅬ୫ܿ Bulletin Place ହངˈ ዄຢ۰࢜তຟೀܸܿᇜധ౟ၟႇॗ࣮ˈ೙ Ꮽ‫ڵ‬ହܿખፔ቏ 15 ְ‫ݲ‬એˈ‫޹؜‬ᇓ‫؜‬ຬȃ ‫ޅ‬࿙ܿ໢ृၻ౦‫؜‬ቂ‫ؾ‬ᗙˈሓၓၻ౦ፔళ ᄧೌ၍ߔ཈ٛܿ‫ؾ‬ᗙȃၻᇋངܿ໸ˈጝ‫؃‬ ߾ᇜၟ࢏Ꮌٰ௚Ꮦˈߑ໸ׁହખࡘ๜ۨȃ ০ົೠ኷൴࣮ٛ‫ྍݓ‬཈మೞᆊ૑એծˈษ ‫୔ܐ‬ናళߟ࣭੣ଁܿ൴࣮࣮ೝˈ‫؜‬໸भ޹ ۨ ᇜ ઢ ቕ ॗ ළ ఱ˛ ၻ ೻ ን ళ ᄧ ბ ܿ ‫ ܬ‬௑ ഄٛ൰ˈਠ݈‫؃ׁڈ‬२೙Ꮽ‫ڵ‬፣஢࢑औܿ એ൰ȃ ၝହዴ၆ၓट˛ ၻჲ‫࡚ܐ‬ᇜፊ‫ޕ‬२ঐ኷‫خ‬ሜ੒ˈ‫ࣰ؜‬ ၻᇓ‫ ئ‬28 ཹˈ२቏ඝྊ೙঱ߙၻ฽฀ܿ໳ ฀ȃ߫ጸܸು୴‫ޕ‬૰ᇵ‫ݲܬ‬એ໗ˉ৅ॆ౞ ࢋ࣭য়‫ޕ‬቏એծȃ‫࣏؜‬૑ᄩড‫؜‬૑ᄩˈ‫؜‬ ‫ܿק‬໸‫ܐ‬য়‫ޕ‬२໸ঐହङຢᇜְȃ may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

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Roasted Challans duck breast, foie gras and orange skin packed with duck conﬁt and orange jelly

Pear and Caramel Chocolate – poached pears with crispy meringue, vanilla ice cream and hot caramel-chocolate sauce

ც૥ߟ࣭ຆ୏ᅿᄽȂ߅ࡣਟȂ‫ڇ‬൝Ꮻቌ࠙ᅿঽ‫ތڇ‬

ᆶ୫ᅬࡷঽਤྴᎅࢸஉਟˉ༽ᎌᆶ୫Ꮻཥ‫ܫ۽‬ռ༹Ȃც‫׼ؾ‬᡼ிঽ฽ਤྴ෠૲உਟ

ၓம፟Ꮾ࿝‫ݞ‬ᆶ୫ᅬࡷঽਤྴᎅࢸஉ ਟˈַಙ୛჏ն‫ܫ‬ռ༹๠ಠˈ‫ܚ‬ඝ೺ࢿፚ මऔܿ‫ॄޡ۽‬኶ৠຢ༽ᎌᆶ୫ঽ‫׼‬᡼ிˈ ะॄຢ჉ܴ߫ߤࢋເˈખ໸ᇜܻੴ፛ܿ࿝ ‫ˈݞ‬Ꮽࢗੴ෠ȃጝࢋࡴ೎‫ߤޡ‬ເ৉෠ޭᏓ ‫ڷ‬ହངᇸ๜߫ጁˈྊූ‫˖ݲ‬ Șᇋቕଓቕ෸๖ȃș ௐိˈ૑ၡ‫ج‬Șᅿࡣ๲፱Ꮧșੴ፛૰ เˈ૛ହ࢏࿝‫ݞ‬ౚ቏஠ᆼȃַಙ୛ไၓ‫خ‬ ധ ຢ Ꮵ ޹ ‫ ؜‬ᇋ ٫ ࣰ ๲ ࢋ ፱ ‫ ˈݞ‬ጝ ܻ ‫ ج‬ᇓ ੢ Ꮸ ۨ ᇜ ߟ ዏˈ ‫ ޤ‬ຢ ᅿ ࡣ ๲ ፱ Ꮧ ˖‫ ۈ‬࿾ ( མ௷‫ݹلތ‬፜቙࿂࣑፩ )ȂȘ๒ၻቂȚ๏ ठțߗᏍș( ც৲ᅿࡣᏫు࣮ঽफोਢஆ )ˈ ᇵঽო‫ܗ‬๲፯ࠞࢆȃᏥॄᇜܻ૰ང໸‫఻ڣ‬ फ़ ᅪ Ꮾ ቂ ܿ ੌ ੰȃ ਖ ඈ ྾ એ ঽ ਥ ፣ ᎌ ࠇ ॄˈ߼๠֐ኟᄳܿ୩‫ތ‬ᅿࡣྭˈ‫ܸ؜‬৅ಊ˖

ᅿࡣྭ኷স‫ޤ‬ၫ‫ُޡ‬઩ፇ჉‫ܦ؜‬ౚ቏๏ फ़ˈ߫ߑᄳ‫ڈ‬Șሃ‫஀ܐ‬ਲ਼șֈܿိ൝ˈ‫ܕ‬ Ꮌऽએცၟȃ మை༞ೝᇓ໸Ꮣ‫ڷ‬Փ‫؜‬໾༇ܿᇜܻ‫ج‬ȃ ྊང ˖ Șጝܻ‫ج‬኶৿‫ܦˈࣰ؜ܠ‬ખ໸ౚเ ૰ᇵᏭ‫ڵ‬Ꮵ֙ܿమை༞ೝȃ࣋ਉ኷቙฽೾ ೉ञ୩೉ቌȃమை༞‫ܕ‬൝჏ᎌˈܲླྀॄৠ ᇜ࣫ٚܿ೾೉ˈፇॄ߼೉ቌˈৠܿཨ‫ˈాޡ‬ ‫ܦ‬ਬ֍ᇋଓȃ೉ቌৠ྘ଓܿय़ˈঐ቏ቌத தܿᇜ‫࠶ل‬ო኷Ꮵຢߴȃș ַಙ୛ܿ‫ˈج‬૰ང໸৿‫ܠ‬ঽߨࡉፇৱ ܿဵ౟൶ळȃ‫ڵޤ‬ହܿல୲૛ཕস‫ܠ৿ޡ‬ ᄙሃˈֶॄᏭࢗ৉෠ፇ೎ษ௑เ೎ᇵჲჸȃ ַಙ୛ไၓ໤‫ࢮإ‬औˈፔᇋ৿‫ܠ‬െ‫ݲ‬ખऔ ‫ړ‬ȃྊቂܿ໤‫إ‬બ໸Ꮵ৞ፇᅤˈ኷ྊ༇፩

फ़ၓᇜܻܻ‫؜‬০ᅃ໿ܿ౟ၟ‫ج‬ᬗȃၳܸ๜ ट‫ڈ‬ၓಚ‫ˈڷ‬ྊང‫ڷ‬໗ܿ౷౻ખ໸ౚ቏౷ ીȃᇓખ໸๜ۨ࢑೙‫װ‬ოྊܿෂᅺঽᏋᄪȃ ޭྊହངˈᇜ෧‫ޕ‬ག୲‫ڈ‬ዽˈሓၓྊ ம੍ᏋেྈऔˈᇓᎌᏋেྈՓȃྊ૑ေᄋང˖ Șၻᎌܿખ໸ᏋেႹ॥‫ܿړ‬ȃ‫ڷ‬໗޹ຬ‫ޕ‬቏ ‫ݞ‬Ꮛཌծȃș ເၓ‫ڷ‬໗௑เᎼ౳ፇ‫ˈۃ‬ಧࣰ቙െ‫ݲ‬ ፬Փܿல୲ˈᇓ੓ࣰۨ‫ڋ‬ቪ૴เࠍჴᄩ፩ ྈՓȃַಙ୛ූ‫˖ ݲ‬ Șፔᄂ‫ړ‬ᇜଁ‫ج‬ၻખፃ ܻጁ‫ܿڷ‬เੜ࿙໸૑ᄩ२໸ֲພȃல୲ঐ ངय़ˈᄩ฀औড‫؜‬औˈ೗ᄩࡥા๜टˈ‫ړ‬ மખፃܻˈ൦‫؜‬மเܿȃș

ขܸ‫ ݕ‬100 ᇔ‫ي‬૛஍నჱ฀ȃ may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

kitchen conversations

೾๗ਅຠয়

boning up

The Epicurean Group’s Executive Chef Brian Moore is a true beef connoisseur.

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN MOORE understands the nuances of beef. Flavor is influenced by the breed, location, feed of the cow and the way the meat is aged, cut and cooked. One of the restaurants he manages - Steik World Meats - offers diners the chance to compare carefully selected beef cuts from eight different countries of the world. It’s a perfect place for steak connoisseurs to explore their passion. “Grass-fed beef has a good texture and delicate flavor,” says Chef Moore. “It is leaner, as the cattle grow more slowly than

Brian Moore Ꮣ‫ڷ‬ம੍೾๗ܿႿ။ُል : ൰ ፯Ȃٛ‫ݓ‬Ȃབலˈᇵঽ๗൰ܿ༝‫ڈ‬Ȃࠍ෧ ञെ‫ߴݲ‬໮ˈ‫ޕ‬ঐሯჳ೾๗ܿࠞၟȃྊྈ ࣏୲ܿ Steik World Meats ‫خ‬࿩ੴᅤհ࣭౟ ၟ೾๗ˈุ໤૴቏঩ঐႿႿ࿒ঐࢌ‫ݓ‬೾๗ ܿࠞၟُልˈጝ୴໸೾ഠਅຠয়ྪ྆Ⴙऔ ܿᏥ৞‫ݞݓ‬ȃ Ș‫ؾ‬བ೾๗፣‫ݓ‬ੴ೘ˈࠞၟႿೢˈ șᏓ ‫ ڷ‬Brian Moore ང ܻȃȘ ყ ਺ ቙ ተ ౶ ড ࢻ ႘བ೾ˈ‫ؾ‬བ೾ܿໍ٣ཨ‫ˈా਺׋ޡ‬ྈᇵ ๗፣‫਺׋‬ੴ༎ȃ‫ؾ‬བ೾๗፣‫ݓ‬੟፛ˈ൰١ ܿ໢ृ‫כ‬ᅐ෧ᄆଐˈႿႿઠਫˈጝޭ࿙ะ ۜ઄ܿ‫ؾ‬བ೾๗ହངˈ໸Ꮵ୲ჲܿ൰١ߴ

Corn-fed American short rib steak, cooked for 72 hours sous vide and lightly seasoned with sage, thyme and garlic oil ተ౶བ౟࣭ᄆ೾ഠˈ੶ࣰ72ᄆ໢ጡૼെ‫ˈݲ‬ ᇵຬᅒ༤ၛ‫ؾ‬Ȃվ୴ცञ‫ཱܐ‬ቌ‫ݲ‬ၟȃ Left: Chef Brian Moore with a slab of dry-aged T-bone steak. During dry aging, the meat shrinks as it matures – the outer layer is trimmed before cooking. Ꮣ‫ڷ‬Brian Moore ༇ೀᇜଐ࡞໮༝‫ݺܿڈ‬Ꮝ ೾ഠࢺȃ኷࡞໮༝‫ڋࣰڈ‬፩ˈ೾๗ঐ቏कཿˈ ኷െ‫ݲ‬ፇ෇ᇓᅍᇋਖ࡞ሱܿိ૮ᅃ‫ݯ‬ȃ

may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

kitchen conversations

Parfait of chopped chicken livers and foie gras with white trufﬂe goose butter. The sweet balsamic reduction in the shape of the Chinese character for “mouth” forms a perfect foil to the smooth velvety pate. Served with pickles and toast for crunch. ռམ௷߅ቌി঳ࡣ‫ࡣ߅ތ‬ਟˈഃ྄ਤྴඈ྾۴ਟፆி‫ڵ‬ऋᏍȘଁș ܿᄳᎫˈဵ౟‫ڃ‬ရज़ག૰ଁܿ߅ࡣਟȃࡒᬶॵࣂञဌཌྷ‫۽‬൥ȃ

corn or grain-fed animals. A grass-fed steak has a firmer texture – you have to cut it smaller and chew it. This is how beef should taste, it’s very natural and pure. We have a wonderful grass-fed Charolais beef from Ireland, where the pasture is so lush from constant rain, the meat has an incredible flavor – it’s almost lamby!” The contrast between grass and cornfed beef is visible. Chef Moore cooks two prime ribs of beef on the bone, one from an Australian grass-fed steer, another from an American steer fed with corn. The American beef is a delicate juicy pink and has a thick glistening ribbon of fat running through the center of the steak. The texture is velvet and melting – it barely needs chewing and the flavor is rich and beefy. By contrast, the Australian steak is leaner and drier – there is no fat to be seen –and resists the knife more when cut. The flavor is light and clean.

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

Each variety of meat is cooked differently. “We have a 600-degree broiler which is ideal for corn-fed beef, as the fat content is higher and it doesn’t dry out,” explains Moore. “Grass-fed would suffer on this grill, so we use a more gentle charcoal grill instead, to keep it moist.” On display in the elegant dining room is a bank of dry aging fridges, housing huge slabs of beef, backlit by amethyst-colored light. Meat needs to be aged for at least four weeks after slaughter as it is too tough to eat straight away. Dry aging allows a natural enzyme within the flesh to tenderize the fibers, softening them, and allowing the flavor of the meat to mature. Wet aging is another method, but the texture of the meat is not as soft when cooked. Dry aging is time consuming and costly – but the flavor benefits are enormous. The most natural way to prepare steak is

to keep the bone in during the cooking process. The bone protects the meat, basting it from within, preventing leaner cuts from drying out, and adding flavor from its marrow. Chef Moore presents a juicy hunk of beef steak served on the bone. The outside is darkened and caramelized, the scent savory. The beef falls apart beneath the knife into delicate pink strands and the texture and flavor is even from bite to finish. “You don’t even need teeth to eat this,” says Moore. “It’s so tender. I don’t think you should complicate the flavor of steak with sauces – just a little salt and pepper

American corn-fed rib of beef, sliced and presented with sides of buttery mashed potato and French beans ౟࣭ተ౶བ೾୤ഠ෧൥ˈ ി‫ج‬໸೉ቌమை༞ೝञནো‫ޒ‬ȃ

໮ȃၻ౦۰Փߔୁ੣ଁຢऔܿ‫ؾ‬བ჋దସ (Charolais) ೾๗ˈ‫ݓܬ‬ቩ༽࠘ࡐˈಾ‫࠘ؾ‬ ౟ˈ೾๗Ꮓၟऔܾ‫؜‬૰ཋሊˈ৿ፊખჸࡶ ᆵ๗ʽș ࢻ႘བ೾ञ‫ؾ‬བ೾ፇৱُܿልმߑᇸ ਈȃᏓ‫ ڷ‬Brian Moore ல୲ம஠ଐ‫ৃݾ‬ஏࢺ ೾୤ഠˈᇜଐ໸թ፷ܿ‫ؾ‬བ೾ˈᇜଐ໸౟ ࣭ܿተ౶བ೾ȃ౟࣭೾๗ࠒ೘޹ፆˈूू ܿፅߵ‫ܕ‬ჸᇜ࿢ດததܿީ‫ۆࣔܕ‬೾ഠ፩ ᆮˈ๗፣๖๢ˈ๠ଁুफ़ˈ৅ॆ‫؜‬ᅍઠਫˈ ଁࡥ࠘ࡐˈ๗ၟഃታȃყ਺ፇ჉ˈթ፷೾ ๗ੴ༎ຬፆˈ૛‫؜‬ਈፅߵˈ๗፣੟໦ˈᇜ ܱ෧჉໢૰ࡥ།Ꮯஉˈ١ඩହ෼༻‫؜‬ቌೢȃ ‫؜‬࿷ܿ๗൰ᅍᇋ‫؜‬࿷ܿെ‫ߴݲ‬໮ȃȘၻ

౦቏ᇜࢋ 600 ‫ܿޡ‬૥௰ˈ߾٢໻ठቂହെ‫ݲ‬ ተ౶བ೾ˈቈ቙ඝፅߵ਺޹ˈࢽെ‫ڋࣰݲ‬፩ ೙ุ೾๗֦‫ڕ‬໛๨޹ፆˈ șMoore ངܻȃȘ‫ܦ‬ ‫ؾ‬བ೾ቂጝ௰Ꮚல୲‫ࠞצ‬ၟ੪໘ˈྈᇵၻ౦ ࡙ቂၫ‫ྩ݈ܿ਺ޡ‬૥௰ˈุ೾๗֦‫ڕ‬໛๨ȃ ș ኷ Steik World Meats Ꭷᢧቄᆈܿ‫خ‬࿩ ୴૰ᇵ૛ܸᇜഠ࡞໮༝‫׼ڈ‬ძˈ୴ಅ߼Ꮌ ‫ܐ‬ଐ೾ġġ๗ˈጐᎼᏆ๾݁ࣕȃ೾๗ᅍᇋፚຬ ན፵ܿ༝‫ڈ‬໢ৱˈሓၓဋኴॄဋ࿒ম๗ঐ ‫߾ܾק‬٢ਔሱˈႇߟమຢ໤ቂȃ࡞໮༝‫ڈ‬ ૰ุ೾๗ׁເྈࣽܿ‫ܫ‬ռਸཧߙংᏮቂˈ फ़੍೾๗ܿম๗გၕˈ๢फ़๗፣ˈ໪๗ၟ ࢑ၓഃታȃௐᇜ፯༝‫ߟߴڈ‬ၓ໛໮༝‫ܦˈڈ‬ െ‫ݲ‬ፇॄ๗፣ბ೘‫؜ޡڋ‬๜࡞໮༝‫ڈ‬ȃ࡞

໮༝‫ڈ‬क໢ቕ՟ࣦˈ‫ࠞܦ‬ၟፇ౟ႇ૰‫׋‬೟ȃ Ꮵ࿙ะܿ೾ഠல୲ߴ໮໸ஏࢺെ‫ݲ‬ȃ ೾๗യܿࢺဂ኷െ‫ڋࣰݲ‬፩ߙং֦॓߷฽ ܿᏮቂˈ໪೾๗֦‫޹ڕ‬ፆˈ‫؜‬፛ࣰ࡞ ˗ߑ ࢺཷᇓঐ‫־‬೾๗Ⴅ༆ˈ໪೾๗ၟܻ࢑ഃታȃ Ꮣ‫ ڷ‬Moore ‫ډ‬ຢᇜ‫ܐ‬ଐࠁ౟޹ፆܿஏ ࢺ೾ഠˈိ‫ل‬૥ܾਤცˈცၟሞเۖიȃ ቂܱਖ‫ܐ‬ଐ೾๗෧‫ڈ‬༮൥ˈ௷‫ڵ‬Ⴟ፛ࠒ೘ ܿ೗୴ˈ۰‫ݕ‬ᇜଁᇈ჉ܸภ‫ࡥଁˈဵړؠ‬ ቪࠞၟ‫؜‬ዕວਂȃ Ș‫ړ‬ጝ๗່ፚ‫؜‬ቂઠਫˈșMoore ངܻȃ Ș๗፣߾٢๖๢ˈߑ෩‫؜‬ᅍᇋਟፆᏫၟˈፔ ᇋ๬ຢᇜ‫ݞ‬ᆑञोਢ‫ݲ‬ၟু૰ȃ೾๗‫ئ‬໸ ጡጸܿ᎐ਲȃș may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

tasting notes

է࠘ཧܿሃ‫ۈ ج஀ܐ‬࿾ቪ‫ۑ‬ᄧ৳๒‫؃‬ᅓ

advanced italian At Grand Lisboa’s Don Alfonso 1890 in Macau, the highly evolved cuisine served by Chef Alfonso Iaccarino and his team satisﬁes by both honoring and reﬁning classic Italian dishes

START WITH THE FINEST natural ingredients. Prepare them with a deep respect for tradition. Spice things up with constant curiosity and a willingness to innovate. Chef Alfonso Iaccarino’s recipe for success at Don Alfonso 1890 sounds deceptively simple. It’s a familiar, tried and true method. Anybody who has ever tried it knows it’s a lot easier said than done. For starters, not every chef has his or her own farm. And not every farm produces ingredients as flavorful as those from Le Peracciole, the Iaccarino family’s organic farm on the southern Italian Sorrentine Peninsula which supplies most of Don Alfonso’s produce. “I live in the country of light, and I am cooking the lightness that is around us,” says Chef Alfonso. “So I try to use many natural, organic ingredients. I am sure of the products from my farm. Where we live is very special for vegetables. Because it is very near to the sea, the vegetables get

tasting notes n

Giudia-style artichoke with buffalo mozzarella, pennyroyal mint, black trufﬂe and a sauce of anchovies from Cetara

ᑼᥱ↨⅒ᄊ࿓࿚፨ཀྵඪⅉᡱ၀ඪ᪫ጀ⎑ྭ᷂ᣏᑑ

Zinna di vacca “alla dama” – terrine of cow breast and celery, with Oscietra caviar and Bourbon king pesto

࿚ᙻ፭ᨲᕅᆛᛑᣏ཭∫ྭᙓᶏ᫶ཫᄩ၀

flavor from the salt in the air. Normally when I eat privately in my house, I never use salt because there is no need to.” Still fewer chefs enjoy the support and backing of a true gourmand like Grand Lisboa’s Executive Director Alan Ho, who truly understands and appreciates the importance of procuring the world’s best ingredients. “We’re looking for the best,” says Alfonso. “If you have the best sea urchin, we will use your sea urchin.” Also central to Alfonso’s philosophy is a commitment to both tradition and exploration – two seemingly contradictory values which every great chef learns to balance in his or her own way. Chef Alfonso manages with apparent ease: his dishes are highly evolved classics, rendered sometimes with a surprising modern touch, or with brilliant clarity and devotion to traditional flavors. Sometimes he draws inspiration from centuries-old recipes and modernizes them with new technology. Where once chefs would boil a fish with herbs, Chef Alfonso can now use a vacuum pack and sous-vide cook the dish slowly, at a lower temperature, preserving juices and aroma. “We put today’s technology in the kitchen with the old style of cooking and create something very interesting and very new.” The resulting dish has the same essence as the original recipe but is much finer in texture and flavor. Other times, Chef Alfonso finds ways to bring new ingredients into traditional dishes. “Everywhere I go, I try to see the market first thing,” he says. “I go to eat with local people … where I can have a new experience.” Once, after being introduced to a memorably delicious Japanese fish, the amadai, he decided to cook it Italian style, all’acqua pazza (crazy water style), with tomatoes and other diced vegetables. “Old Italian tradition combined with one of the best Japanese fish – perfect.” “I have dedicated my life to quality food and to the good health of my guests,” says Chef Alfonso. “That’s what is important to me.”

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

ᇜߺթ౤ᄧඈੲએ‫ݥ‬Ș‫ܬ‬է࠘ཧ 1890 ሃ໮ ல୲ș‫خ‬࿩ˈ൰١᎐‫ڷ‬ঽඝတެ֦ௗ‫ܻݓ‬ ሃ‫ج஀ܐ‬ੴख़‫؃‬ৠᇵო‫ۑܗ‬ሃܿᄧ‫ج‬๾ȃ Ꮵऔܿᄧბ໤‫إ‬໸‫ݕ‬ᇜᇋཧˈֻல໢ ᇋᄩ‫ࡥ܃‬঱ˈᏧ፱ቄடܿ‫ۈ‬࿾ȃਾ჉ହ኶ ᇵ၅໓ܿऔඟᄩᇵঽชᄧช‫ॲޡྙܿק‬फ़ ‫ڵ‬ᇜܻܻ౟ၟல୲ȃ Ș‫ܬ‬է࠘ཧ 1890 ሃ໮ ல ୲ ș ‫ خ‬࿩ ‫ ֑ ۑ‬เ Alfonso Iaccarino ܿ ‫ڈ‬ ࢙౷ીખ໸ጝ౓৿‫ˈܠ‬࿪ඩହჸ୔ໍ٢ྥˈ ‫ܦ‬ษ໸඾‫ە‬վஙܿጡ୲ȃ‫ࣰ؜‬቏༅ࣰܿเ ᇜ‫ށ‬ፃܻˈང‫׋‬Ꮽܿ๒ᇸ޹மȃ ‫؜‬໸౞ၤ‫ڷ‬໗‫ޕ‬ჸ Alfonso ᇜᆼˈ቏᎟ ౤࢜ሥ໤‫ܿإ‬ഄ٠ˈᇓ‫؜‬໸౞য়ഄ٠‫ޕ‬૰ᇵ ‫ڵ‬ٛჸ Alfonso Ꮛয়቏঩ഄ٠ೄֈცනഃታܿ ༐‫ج‬ȃAlfonso ໪ቂܿ໤‫ˈإ‬৅ॆ෼ᇜ๾ହᏋ ၤ቙ሃ‫྆ؠೌ஀ܐ‬ఘ࿬֐ܵܿয়Ꮬ቏঩ഄ٠ȃ ྊᏋऑ‫װ‬໯ ˖ Șၻܿয়ხᆷࣕඎጐˈၻ ல୲ܿጸ໸ࣕጐߐঌ჉ܿٛ႘ȃၻޭᏋয় ഄ٠ܿٛ൰቏ᄪᄩˈႹ॥١༅ࢌ፯࿙ะ቏ ঩໤‫إ‬ȃഄ٠஽੧ࣴ‫ˈע‬፯ፋܿ༐‫ج‬ཕॆ ᇓ࿙ໍ‫ܕ‬቏ᆑၟˈ߾٢࿅‫׳‬ȃྈᇵ኷ၻয় ‫߰ړ‬࿳٢‫؜‬ৠᆑˈሓၓࢎׁખ‫؜‬ᅍᇋȃș ೙ࢮถܾภฉᏥቄ፣໤‫إ‬໸๜ۨ፱ᇋˈ ᄧඈੲએ‫ݥ‬ፍᄵ‫ކ‬໳ˈፃಚ୔ᾉटᩳఘແ ಖܻۨˈቈᄩߑߙ‫ݓ‬ไ࿷ঽ৮‫ڕ‬ȃ޹ଞ቏ மྊܿภஉፀ‫ڕ‬ঽിठˈAlfonso ‫ئ‬቏੪฀ ং๬ܿૼৱȃAlfonso ખང ˖ Șၻ౦ᇜፊ኷ ግᏥऔܿȃፔᇋೠࡧང቏፣஢Ꮵऔܿࣴ‫ˈܣ‬

ၻ౦ખঐቂȃș๜ट኷૛ཕ‫ڤ‬ဆܿ‫ۈ‬࿾ቪ‫ۑ‬ ᄧፇৱถܾ൶ळˈ໸౞ࢋ‫ˈڋ୿ܿ੶כڷܐ‬ ᅍᇋ۰፩‫ۑ‬ዉ‫ڵ‬༥቙Ꮛেܿ‫ޙ‬࿅ࠞࢆˈጝ ᇓጸ໸ Alfonso ܿᄪ೫ྈ኷ȃྊᇲ‫ܸ܌‬৪෸ ખ༝ܿ੼੒ ˖۰੶‫جݟ‬๾ীถௌࡥ‫ۑ‬Ꮾო ‫֋ܗ‬ல୲ˈ‫ܕ‬ହ௑เߓ಼ᇜᄧܿ໢‫ˈࢆࠞܗ‬ ᇷড፫໦‫ډ‬ო‫ۈ‬࿾ၟܻፇ౟ცȃ ቏໢ Alfonso ከቂᏥᄧ৉༦ˈਖ৅վ ೧ፇઌܿࢸ୔໤ඐܿ୔‫ج‬ᇂເᇜ‫ڈק‬ၓ໢ ᾍல୲ȃ۰෇ቢᇋञᇊ‫ؾ‬ᇜඩգᎌˈ‫ ܦ‬Alfonso ო኷૰ᇵቂȘጡૼ݈ၫെ‫( ߟݲ‬sousvide)șˈ٣໢ৱ݈ၫৠ฽ᇵ֦ௗኊၟঽኊፆ ੴख़ȃȘ኷ၻ౦‫ˈ߶ڷ‬Ꮵᄧ૭৉ቪࢸ୔െᎌ ߴ໮ყ࠽ყ‫جܿڵޤˈڈ‬๾቏นቕุเߓ ಼ᇜᄧșȃல୲ຢᎷ໢֦቏ኊ໤ඐܿੴཷˈ ‫ࡥଁܦ‬ঽၟܻૂ࢑ຢᇜ‫ل‬௦ȃ Alfonso ᇓႹ॥኷‫ۈ‬࿾‫ج‬๾፩ৠ๠ภᄧ ໤‫إ‬ȃྊང ˖ Ș౞ܸᇜࢋ‫ˈߴݓ‬ၻᏥ჏บܿ ખ໸‫ج‬༁٠ȃ኷ೄ‫ע‬૰ᇵञ‫ݓܬ‬เᇜඩ‫ړ‬ ߰ … ‫ࢍܕ‬ၻ‫؜‬࿷ܿภᄧ࿒ᆬȃ ș቏۫኷ൎ ቐ੔ຯ჉൰١மᇜׁ๊ܻல୲ሠჺແ૳ˈ ྈᇵྊિ‫ށ‬ቂ‫ܐ‬஢ᘵ෨ঽ෧‫ݺ‬༐‫ˈج‬ᇵȘࠟ ଘ༽ᎌߟ (all’acqua pazza)ș፱ო௑ྊ೫೫ ‫؜‬၇ܿ౟ၟȃྊᄳ๒ጝܻ‫˖ ج‬ Șሃ‫ۈ஀ܐ‬࿾ െ‫ߴݲ‬໮ৠຢᇜ݃ᇜׁ๊ܿࣴბˈႇ૰࿡ ࿋ș ȃ Ș‫ࡴڵޤ‬፣஢ܿல୲࿷໢৳ࢾ૴เ਌ ૜ˈ໸ၻᇜໍܿፉፗ ˗໸ၻᏥ኷ॆܿ໳ȃ ș

may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

tasting notes

፜ເ౟ၟ౭੼

living the dream At Jade Dragon, City Of Dreams Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung cooks memorably delicious Cantonese dishes that pay tribute to his grandmother

“MY GRANDMOTHER INSPIRED me to cook,” says City of Dreams Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung. “She had only a wood-fired stove, an iron wok and a steamer, but she used natural ingredients to cook delicious food for dozens of people. I wanted to do the same.” The elegant surroundings at Jade Dragon restaurant may seem far removed from Chef Tam’s grandmother’s kitchen, but the same values and principles endure: to take the finest natural ingredients in their seasonal prime and to prepare them using traditional, healthy Cantonese cooking techniques. A beautiful winter melon dish from the seasonal menu is artfully arranged to resemble a white lily floating in a shallow crimson pool. Lightly steamed winter melon surrounds a mound of potent green spinach leaves. Slivers of delicate fish maw interlaced with paper thin slices of Azuaga Ham and fresh baby spinach top the dish. A salty, earthy red sauce made from organic beetroot and chicken broth adds striking contrast, both in color and texture. “The Chinese should be proud that they invented steam cookery,” says Tam. “It has been around for thousands of years and is a really healthy way to cook. This dish shows

թ౤ᄧᣄ࿙‫( ݓ‬City of Dreams) ፩໮‫خ‬࿩ Șችᦾᅞș(Jade Dragon) ፩‫ج‬ᄵጹᏓ‫࣭ྤڷ‬ ࠝྥܸᏝವ໢ངܻ˖ Șၻჲᎌ‫ج‬ખ໸ሓၓྌȃ ૦Ꮌْຨ௰ዋȂᇜፔ࿧࣫ञጯ௠ˈၻᏝವ ખ೙ጀటᇜয়Ꮚ৅ໟࢋเܿ๲‫ˈخ‬ቂ࿙ะ ໤‫إ‬ᎌ‫ڵ‬ᇜܻܻ౟ၟல୲ȃၻჲ‫ྌ࢏ܾק‬ ᇜᆼȃș ౟గ౟ᔫܿȘችᦾᅞș૛ཕቪ୔Ꮭವ ܿ‫߶ڷ‬࿙ُ‫ܦˈ׳ݓ‬኷ඝ໢ຣᎧᢧȂቄᆈ Ꮇധঽ‫׳‬፛ܿ༃೗ົ৓ፇ჉ˈ֦ௗᎼყ࿷ ܿ২ፎঽᄪ೫ ˖ከቂ፣஢Ꮵ৞ܿ໢௑໤‫ˈإ‬ ᇵ‫ۈ‬࿾Ȃ਌૜ܿࣖ໮ல୲৉෠െᎌ‫ڵ‬౟ၟ ல୲ȃ ো੅‫ܠج‬ຢܿ‫ࣂޅ‬ல୲տധੴ౟ˈჸ ޽൨࠶቙ᦊऽ‫ڗ‬፩ܿռ๾վठˈቋ๜ᇶ༦ ൰ᇜֈȃ‫ܠ৿ࣂޅ‬ጯᎌॄˈ፵ၐտຢၟܻ ਺ ၓ ഃ வ ܿ ఍ ๾ ᖕ ‫ ج‬ಆȃ Ⴟ ፛ ܿ ሙ ռ ቢ ὞ቪ֤๜ፖ൥ܿႠօᆃᇢ‫஀׋‬টဓ (pata negra) ਦፈˈ኶Ꮁຢᄧბܿ೘ᖕ‫ج‬ಆખ‫ܐ‬ ࢙ࡻ‫ڈ‬ȃਟፆᇵ቏঩ऽ‫ج‬ፆঽ঳ྭգ፟ߑ ‫ˈڈ‬ၟܻ။დȂ‫ډ‬࿙ะऽ๾๾ዐˈ‫࣏؜‬໸ ᆘ๾ডଁࡥ‫ޕ‬ቪல୲ᄳ‫ූڈ‬வޭ‫ˈ׋‬ൽ቏ ड़௝‫ݞ‬੯ፇᄌȃ ྤᏓ‫װڷ‬໯ ˖ Ș፩࣭เሥࡘޭᏋেߙಖ ܿጯᎌߴ໮ࡥܸ਩զȃጯᎌܿ୿໨ᇲ੶औ ৅඾೧ˈ໸भ቏਌૜࡚೫ܿെ‫ߴݲ‬໮ȃጝ ܻ‫ج‬ᇜߴಅ૰ᇵ૛ܸ‫ۈ‬࿾ܿെᎌ৉෠ˈ࿷ ໢ᇓ໸ᄧ໱‫ܿܗ‬໢ᾍ፩‫ج‬ȃș

Winter melon with aged Azuaga Ham, ﬁsh maw and fresh spinach ‫ࣂޅ‬Ꮻ‫ځ‬೧ᇢ‫஀׋‬টဓȂॗਥঽ ᄧბᖕ‫ج‬ಆ੩቏঩ऽ‫ج‬ፆ঳ྭ

| T A S T I winemaker N G K I T C H E೭એ໗ N | 57 m a y 2Hervé 0 1 3 Laviale,

Chef Tam uses a special cut of Iberico pork from the top of the loin. Dipped in organic honey straight from the comb and roasted over a ﬁre of lychee and red date wood, it makes irresistible char siew.

tasting notes

ྤᏓ‫هܿڷ‬ຨᅤቂᇢ‫஀׋‬ᎆᆿ৆Ꮵຢߴ ܿ‫ˈࠍؠ‬ிຢፊਾถᏋࠛ‫ܿٱ‬቏঩ࠛ ౺ˈॄ቙୸ጿঽऽዃ༨಻ْຨ௰ຢ፤ ૥ॄ‫צ‬໸௑เႇߟૠથܿ౟ၟ‫ه‬ຨȃ

the traditional cooking technique, but with a modern presentation.” The same steaming technique is used to prepare a whole Macau sole. Found around the Pearl River estuary, this fish needs a temperate blend of salt and fresh waters in order to flourish. “It’s a beautiful wild fish with a smooth, sweet flavor and a melting texture,” say Tam. “I serve it with a mild soy sauce, lightly salted, just like the water the sole swims in.” Behind the windows of Jade Dragon’s exhibition kitchen, chefs work at a brick oven, fuelling it with smooth branches from lychee and red date trees. A row of Iberico pork loin strips, destined to become char siew, hang from a copper rail, dripping with organic honey. “Lychee wood brings a special taste to the meat,” explains Tam. “Red date wood gives it a gorgeous deep color. The honey and seasonings in the glaze make it savory and sweet at the same time.” The meat is extraordinarily tender and juicy, and breaks apart without being stringy. “We use a special cut. It’s the strip at the top of the rump,” says Tam.

He speaks with the confidence of a chef who knows that after seeing the pork roasting over a crackling, fragrant wood fire, few are able to resist: “Not many restaurants create this same outstanding taste and flavor with their char siew. Our barbecue creates a tender meat texture with a light, natural wood flavor. You have to try it!”

Wild-caught Macau sole steamed with mandarin peel and scallions ෼ጯթ౤ᇑໍਜ਼‫ע‬௝஀Ꮻ‫ځ‬൝ঽۭཎ

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

թ౤ᇑໍਜ਼‫ע‬௝஀ᇓ኷ྤᏓ‫ࡴڷ‬٫ܿ ጯᎌ৉෠჉फ़ၓ౟ၟல୲ȃᎂਘतଁၓდ ࣴ༽ቪ‫༽ܨ‬ਦ੒ፇ‫ ۃ‬, ࣴतܿ୩ഊਦ࿓ክ ቼ‫ڵ‬፣஢Ꮵ৞ܿਜ਼‫ע‬௝஀ ȃፊܸ඘ኟၓፒ , ‫ޕ‬໸ჴቂթ౤ਜ਼‫ע‬௝஀ܿᏥ৞໢੅ȃྤᏓ ‫ࠍڷ‬ჴ‫ޙ‬౤౷ી :Șጝ፯౟୻ܿᇑໍቢၟܻ ज़ག࡟࿝ , ๠ଁুफ़ȃၻႷ࣒Ꮻᇵ‫ܨ‬ਟቌ , ວ။‫ݞܕ‬დၟખऔ , ખჸ໸ ౦ඕႩܿ༽ ቱ ᇜᆼȃ șെ‫ڋࣰݲ‬፩२ঐৠ‫ݞ‬ᩬ൝࿚ຢᇜ ཎ࿅‫ࡡܿݲ‬ᩬၟ , ᏥॄᏫᇵ။ုۭܿ఍տ ധખ໸ᇜܻ౟ၟல୲ȃ ဃࣰȘችᦾᅞș૑߼໮‫߶ڷ‬ഐ‫ܿܐ‬؄ ஊ‫ˈۍ‬૰ᇵ૛ܸᏓ‫ڷ‬኷‫ۈ‬࿾Ꭰዉْ௰‫ۆע‬ ྂܿເሯˈᄢ‫إ‬બ໸ੴᄩ࿡ᅤܿ୸ጿঽऽ ዃ༨Ⴟጿȃ࿸৩ຢࣅᎼᇜጶഠܿᇢ‫஀׋‬ᎆ ๗ˈ ᇜ ଐ ଐ ᆿ ৆ ๗ ‫ ޕ‬ᇲ ி ຢ ቏ ঩ ࠛ ౺ ည ਟˈ‫؜‬ઌ‫ޕ‬ਖ‫ڈק‬౟ၟܿࣖ‫هބ‬ຨȃᆿ৆ ๗৩኷૥‫ه‬ຢˈᎉᇜ኷ْটຢ፤ຨȃᏓ‫ڷ‬ ੍໾ ˖ Ș୸ጿ༨ጿ૰ᇵၓ๗୥࿚ৠ‫ޙ‬࿅ܿ ცၟˈ‫ه‬ຨແ᣿ܿᆘ๾ዏ໸ւऽዃ༨ྈ۪ȃ ညਟܿࠛ౺ঽ‫ݲ‬ၟலዏዓ࿚‫ه‬ຨܿࠞၟঽ ࿝‫ޡ‬ȃș‫ه‬ຨ๢೘ႇ‫׋‬Ȃ๗ፆནለˈᇈ჉ บཎऒࡥા‫ܸ؜‬๗ਖ਼Ȃஅু኷ଁ፩फ़૑ȃ Ꮣ‫˖ ݲූڷ‬ Șၻ౦ᅤቂܿ໸ᇢ‫஀׋‬ᎆမ‫ؠ‬ Ꮵຢߴܿ‫ؠ‬ၤȃș Ꮣ‫ڷ‬቏ໟᏚܿնၾˈᎆ๗੶ࣰவᆩْ ຨॄცၟནለȂ὿உႇเ೙‫ˈܭ‬ᇜଁ‫ړ‬჉ ௑เട՝਻ુ˖೙Ꮽ‫ڵ‬ၟܻঽცၟ૗ቪȘች ᦾᅞș‫ه‬ຨ൞‫خܿ݋‬࿩቏๜ࠦొᾢਲȃྊང˖ Șၻ౦য়ܿ‫ه‬ຨ‫ړ‬ඩହ๗፣๢೘ˈ‫ܕ‬቏ᇜཎ ࿙ะ಻ცၟˈ‫؜‬༅ೠᇜ‫ॄށ‬উȃș

౟ၟࢗ߶

choice cuts Strength, dexterity, a passion for meat, and some very sharp knives: in the kitchen with Shore Executive Chef Jason Black.

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

Josephine Rozman

නஉȂ෠༇Ȃ฽฀ঽࠝ ஀ܱનˈᇜྪ౟ၟ๗୥ ல୲ֶॄፇ‫݉݉ݞݞ‬ȃ

may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

“I wear these special gloves when cutting meat on the bone,” says Ah Wa, pulling on a pair of chainmail gauntlets to protect his hands. “I don’t believe in waste,” says Black. “We use everything we buy – even strange cuts of meat like pigs’ feet can be delicious. The team cooks a dish we eat together called ‘head to toe.’ You take the meat from a pig’s head and stuff it into the trotter. It’s poached in a beautiful sweet broth flavored with hearty vegetables.” Knife in hand, Chef Black demonstrates how to cut meat from a cooked pig knuckle. “You need to feel for the bone with the tip of the knife, then cut as close to it as possible, without sawing.” With caramel skin and springy magenta flesh, the meat smells like Christmas – sugary with a slight whiff of cloves. Ah Wa moves on to fillet a vast Mahi Mahi, using a wider knife. The fresh, taut fish resists the pull of the blade as he sweeps along the line of its backbone with clean, smooth strokes. He removes one fillet, then deftly flips the fish over. “It’s hard work,” he

says. “But I like it.” Chef Black likes it too: “When you butcher a fish, you get bones. For fish stock.” Three huge saucepans rattle on the stove. A rich, sweet, maritime scent wafts up as Black lifts a lid off to reveal red lobster shells bubbling among herbs and vegetables – broth for a bouillabaisse. Chef de Cuisine Desmond Yau and Sous Chef Sun Chan are making a glossy, ginger-colored barbeque sauce. It tastes delicious, with a potent tartness that would cut through the fattiest rib dish. Ah Wa is keeping busy, blitzing freshly minced steak into a meaty paste, then hauling the heavy bowl into the back kitchen, where he forms the mixture into neat balls. “He’s making burgers,” says Chef Black. “We grind our own meat using a mixture of three different cuts – rump steak, neck and chuck. We want that mix of different fat components for a better taste.” “Ah Wa used to be a skinny lad,” says Chef Black. “But he keeps the meat offcuts and cooks them. He eats a lot of protein. Now he is strong.”

Josephine Rozman

“YOU NEED to be physically and mentally strong to work in a kitchen,” says Shore Executive Chef Jason Black. “And you need to get on with one another. You spend twelve to sixteen hours working in a small, hot space, working hard.” The two rooms of Chef Black’s kitchen are busy with cooks, chopping, grinding, lighting charcoal fires, mixing, tasting, sawing, slicing and doing all the tough, concentrated jobs that are a prelude to beautiful, delicious food. Everybody moves with fluid, collective grace – a good thing, when so many blades are involved. The Shore team makes all their stocks and sauces from scratch. Beef is shipped in to the restaurant fresh and unbutchered. Chef Black is able to oversee the aging process himself and decide exactly when the meat is at the peak of its flavor and tenderness. He designed a row of dry aging fridges in the kitchen which are filled with large racks of meat. “And I bought a band saw, so we can cut large pieces of meat on the bone,” he says. “Our butcher Ah Wa uses it. A normal knife isn’t strong enough.”

໢ ຣ ೾ ഠ ‫ خ‬࿩ȘShoreș ᄵ ጹ Ꮣ ‫ ڷ‬Jason Black ไၓ኷‫ࢗܿ߶ڷ‬ᏮȘᇋເᄩ‫ූࢮޕ‬Ꭺ ‫ئ‬೙໕ใȃᇜ࿙ໟߗܸໟ௜ᄆ໢ৄເ኷჈ ᄆዌ฽ܿ‫ૼ߶ڷ‬ৱలဂଇ࡞ˈ๩ႇߟ࢏ඝ ྊเऔऔყ‫ۃ‬໸‫؜‬૰೙Ꮽܸܿȃș Ꮣ‫ ڷ‬Black ܿ‫఻ৄ߶ڷ‬ம‫ڷ‬໗ˈ෧‫ج‬Ȃ ೨ಢȂ໐ྫྷটȂਬ֍Ȃ༅ၟܻȂ෧ࢃঽ൥๗ˈ ᇜ૳‫؜‬თȃ‫ܦ‬ౚ቏ጝᄎᄦଇߨ፱ܿ෇፜Ꮾ ᇖˈ૴เખႇߟ൰١ᇜܻܻ౟‫؜‬໕༆ܿ৞ ᬗȃ኷ႇ‫؜ۃ‬ਈ‫ˈ୴߶ڷܱܿج‬တެ౞ࢋ เ‫ޕ‬ເ༇ਮੈˈษቕ۰๒‫؜‬ඁˈᎼ໦௑เ ߼ᄩ‫؜‬ຬȃ ኷ȘShoreșˈࡴྭঽਟፆ‫ޕ‬໸Ꮛ፟ܿȃ ೾๗ཛྷ‫خݑ‬࿩໢೾࿒२ყ‫ဵܬ‬ጶˈ߾٢ᄧ ბȃ኶༝‫ ڋࣰڈ‬Black Ꮣ‫ڷ‬ᇜ༇ጁၾˈᇵ ഫި๗፣ࠞၟঽ๖๢‫ޡ‬Ꮵ֙ܿુ৞໢঩ȃ ྊ኷‫߶ڷ‬೗ົ৓மᇜጶഠ࡞໮༝‫׼ڈ‬ძˈ ࣅ఻‫ܚ‬༝‫ܿڈ‬๗൰ȃ ྊང ˖ Șၓம‫ܐ୲ۃ‬ଐܿ‫ࢺܕ‬೾๗ˈၻ २ళம࿅‫ࢍֻົ׳‬ဋኴ໗ࡊጼၙख़໪ቂȃ ᇜֈܿ‫ࢮ؜ܱج‬உȃș ၙख़ᇜ‫ܔע‬ຢ॓༇ܿ྇৤༇࿄‫ע‬ང ˖ Ș෧‫ࢺܕ‬๗ܿ໢ृᇋ‫ܔ‬ຢ࿅፟༇࿄ˈᇵ֦՗ ภȃș Black ූ‫˖ ݲ‬ Șၻ౦۰‫ˈࠈ୐؜‬੪஢႘ ੪ඝቂˈჸ໸ᎆਰ݃‫ं਺׋‬ਈܿ‫ؠ‬ၤᇓ૰

“ You need to be physically and mentally strong to work in a kitchen. ᇋເᄩ‫ූࢮޕ‬Ꭺ‫ئ‬೙໕ใȃ” ᇵभ౟ၟȃၻ౦նถᏋᎆဂܿ๗๰੣ᎆਰ ೗ˈ߼੣ቂࢌ໮ሩᆻ༐‫ج‬գ፟ܿࡴྭాᎌˈ ๾ዐბ౟ˈ૰ང໸ಚ࠲ඝ໦Ț۰ဂ‫ܸړ‬ਰț ܿ౟ၟȃș Black ೀ‫ڵ‬᎟ቂ‫ˈܱج‬෮Ꮛ໯߭๜टᏋ െ‫ܿڈဵݲ‬ᎆ࿐ຢ෧჉๗൥ȃྊང ˖ Șቂܱ ৯ࡥ།ࢺဂྈ኷ˈ੪஢‫׳‬ቂફܿˈߑ໸ག Ꮌࢺဂ჉ܱˈኚ੧ኚऔȃ ș෧჉ହܿ๗ိ൝ ‫ܕ‬Ꮌਤྴ๾ዐȂ๗๾ऽࠒȂ޹ፆȂცන඄‫ˈ׊‬ ‫ܕ‬Ꮌ࿝ၟঽᇜཎ‫ݺ‬ცˈ௑เ஍ჲܸ໖‫੅ܩ‬ȃ ၙख़ਾᎼቕೀ‫ڵ‬ᇜն‫ˈܱܐ‬૑໭ၓᇜ ࿢ધ‫࣠ܿܐ‬ဂܱቢบࢺ෧൥ȃፔਈᄧბȂ ੟ׄܿቢ๗ཱུᎼܱࠝᇧᎡˈၙख़‫ٮ‬௝ࢺག ໷ढ़჉ˈ༇ඩܱథȂཎऒ‫؜‬ယೝ‫༽ܕ‬ȃ‫؜‬ ᅢớৱᇲถ჉ᇜ൥ቢ๗ˈะॄቕਖቢߤܸ ௐᇜಅˈໟࠍஃథȃྊང˖ ȘጝࢗᏮभᄦଇˈ ‫ܦ‬ၻખ໸Ⴙ॥ȃ ș Black ਾᎼང ˖ Ș൥๗ॄܿቢࢺ૰ௗ჉ ହգࡴྭȃ ș

ট௰ຢ࿷ᇜ໢ৱ቏๲‫ྭ࣫ܐ‬ፆጸ኷գ ᎌˈፁፁᏮჳȃᏓ‫ڷ‬ᇜჍ૑ඝ፩ᇜࢋ࣫࡜ˈ ഃታც࿝ܿࣴᆶනၟ඄‫ߑ׊‬ହˈ୴ಅጸ໸ ߼๠௝Ⴡ૮Ȃც‫ؾ‬லঽ༐‫ج‬գᎌܿమ๱ቢ ྭྭ‫ݒ‬ȃ ȘShoreș᎐‫ڷ‬จ৛ٞঽȘShoreș᎓ ୲ ᎐ ‫ ځ ڷ‬ಖ 㨿 ኷ ᎌ ܿ ໸ ਕ ๾Ȃ ც ഃ ܿ ૥ ๗ ਟȃ ਟ ፆ ‫ ܕ‬቏ ഃ ታ ܿ ᄦ ෑ ଁ ࡥˈ ‫ ܋‬ി ቌ ፅ ࠘ ࡐ ܿ ୤ ഠ ‫ ؜‬ቌ ‫ ؜‬ೢȃ ၙ ख़ ৙ ᅝ ஃ థਖ೾ഠ๗߀ླྀ‫ڈ‬ೝ኶ᏇႿ೰፟‫ڈ‬๗ ฉȃ Black Ꮣ‫੍ڷ‬໾ ˖ ȘྊᎳֻᏭऋ֧ȃၻ ౦Ꮢठ೾မȂ೾৴ঽ೾੺ହ፟Ꮾਵ๗ˈႪ ၆‫ݲ‬ञ๲ࢋ‫؜‬࿷‫ؠ‬ၤܿࠁ༎‫ˈޡ‬࿎໐ऋ֧ ܿ౟ၟ‫ޡڋ‬ȃș ྊ૑ေᄋང ˖ Șၙख़ᇵ෇༎ܸ‫؜‬ᄵˈ‫ܦ‬ Ꮛ۰૑໭ࡏው‫୲ۃ‬๗୥‫ؠ‬ၤঽെ‫ݲ‬ᇵହˈ ‫ڣؚ‬மभ޹‫ܫ‬ռ፣ȃო኷ܿྊ૰໸Ꭺܿ‫؜‬ ܾமȃș may 2013

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PERFECTPAIRINGS PRESENTED

CAPE MENTELLE

ऽຢৠऽ

RED & RED Four top restaurants. Four classic beef dishes. One great wine.

IN THE EARLY

1800 S , a French expedition set off

for the Southern Hemisphere to chart the Western coast of Australia. Searching for a name for a particularly beautiful cape in the region, they decided to honor two esteemed French scientists – the brothers Mentelle. Two hundred years later, in a nearby spot, close to the shore of the Indian Ocean, fields of mature grape vines flourish in the pleasant maritime climate. Consistent dry weather and cool sea breezes allow for a long growing season. These vines grow steadily, producing rich, dark grapes with a fruity, spicy flavor. These are the vineyards of Cape Mentelle, one of the pioneering wine producers of the Margaret River region. Established in 1970 by Australian brothers David, Mark and Giles Hohnen, the winery started small, with just sixteen hectares of vines. The area seemed a perfect place to experiment with Bordeaux grape varieties, and the

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may 2013

Steak and Shiraz at Shore restaurant.

PERFECTPAIRINGS

Cape Mentelle photography courtesy of Cape Mentelle

PRESENTED

favorable climate and free-draining, gravelly soil helped the vines to thrive. “Ripening conditions are perfect,” says Cape Mentelle Senior Winemaker Robert Mann. “We rarely have difficult conditions at harvest. My grandfather, who was also a winemaker, commented that this was the only wine region in the world to have a hundred great vintages a century.” Shiraz has been grown at Cape Mentelle since the beginning. It is a very special grape. Large, around the size of a marble, it produces hearty wine with distinctively rich, fruity layers of flavor. Skins darkened under the warm sun give the wine its regal purple color. During fermentation, the Cape Mentelle cellars are filled with scents of blueberry fruit and peppery spice. Shiraz has a reputation for being a grape that produces a lot of sugar and alcohol when cultivated in the New World. The vintners at Cape Mentelle work hard to keep the growth and flavor development of the grapes to a moderate level, creating a balanced, subtle wine. “Structure and balance are critical,” says Robert. “To achieve optimal flavor and tannin maturity, it all starts in the vineyard. At harvest, we sort our red fruit berry by berry, to ensure that only the most uniformly ripe grapes are accepted, and to remove anything that might adversely impact the flavor and structure. The rest is straightforward. We let the fruit do the talking.” Shiraz communicates particularly well with beef dishes. “Aussies love beef and Shiraz and produce both to a very high standard,” says Robert. “The texture and richness of beef is a great match for the intensity and full flavor of Shiraz, whose spice not only balances the wine but also helps complement the beef and cut through the fattiness.” On the following pages, four top chefs from four famous Hong Kong restaurants cook four different beef dishes to pair with Cape Mentelle’s Shiraz. Delicious red beef and rich red Shiraz – it’s a match that enhances the great qualities of both partners.

CAPE MENTELLE

Winemaker Robert Mann at the Cape Mentelle vineyards in the Margaret River region of Southwestern Australia Ꮑແ೭એ໗Robert Mann኷թ፷Ⴀೌఫࢆ୻࿅त௚ቱ ఽ‫܌‬᝘ඈ྾એᎦ

ໟ઎໱৚‫ڴ‬ඓˈߟ࣭ናጲެऎᄵፚೌ֐ฉ ক፟թ፷Ⴀ՛‫ݓ‬ဇȃྪნয়‫ܬ‬໢ਖ౟‫؜‬໕ ༆ܿႠೌᇜቦᇵߟ࣭૭ᅪয়ܿᄺༀಛಚၓ ఽ‫܌‬᝘ˈჹֻ།Ꮷ‫܌ఽܿڦ‬ᄻ‫ݗ‬፛੽ȃ ஠վ೧ॄˈఽ‫܌‬᝘஽੧ሠ‫ޡ‬ᆶܿฏቱւ ༗໻ܿࣴᆶᄲනृྈ۪ˈན‫ۃ‬૰ਈඈ྾࣮໦ ୠୠȃࡘฏ੶೧ຬቩ࡞༻Ȃৠຢ။ஜܿࣴࠞ ‫ໍˈ੅ݲ‬٣ো࿅‫׳‬٣ȃඈ྾‫ڈ‬٣ཨ‫ޡ‬ၱ‫ˈށ‬ ࣮໦࠘ूȂᆘ๾ແཻˈၟܻ။ෑ෩ࡐࣽ༽࣮ ბၟˈጸ໸ఽ‫܌‬᝘એᎦ‫ڵ‬ٛܿඈએᄙጐȃએ Ꭶ ቈ DavidȂMark ঽ Giles Hohnen ๲ ᄻ ‫ݗ‬ ቙ 1970 ೧ྈ‫ۑ‬அˈ‫ڴ‬ඓ੡቏ 16 ࢞กˈო ᇲ໸ఫࢆ୻࿅त௚ቱ༈ณᇜፑܿએᎦȃ ቄልܿනृ࿢਋ˈৠຢ୾Ꭻဌีഠ༽ ๒ᇸˈุࡘฏቱ‫ڈ‬ၓໍٛඈ྾ܿુ৞ٛ‫ˈݓ‬ ᇓ໸፯ፋࢌ໮؉ߔ޹ඈ྾൰፯ܿ࿙ྰȃఽ ‫܌‬᝘એᎦᏁແ೭એ໗ Robert Mann Ꮛऑ‫װ‬ ໯˖ Șၻ౦ጝ୴ܿ༝‫ڈ‬࿢਋ܾ࿙‫ˈूޙ‬༆‫ڈ‬ ‫؜‬৞ܿ฀ଝຬፇቕຬȃၻᏝࡍᇓ໸೭એ໗ ‫ڵ‬ເˈྊዕངภ໱੒ግ‫ߴݓࢋߗݕܸ؜‬ञ ఽ‫܌‬᝘ᇜᆼˈࣰบᇜվ೧ହ೧೧࠘༆ȃș ఽ‫܌‬᝘Ꭶኍ፯ፋඈ྾‫ڴ‬ඓ‫צ‬ሞ੣‫ޙ‬ᇜ ႇߗܿඈ྾൰፯ˉႪࣱᎿ (Shiraz)ȃႪࣱᎿ ࣮໦ჸ‫ܪ‬ᎂᇜᆼ‫ˈܐ‬೭፟ܿએ‫ܕ‬቏࣮ၟȂ ၟܻഃታȂ‫ˈࡐ࠘۫ل‬௑เՓ‫؜‬໾༇ȃ੩ ሚ቙ഊᆷፇ჉ˈඈ྾ᆘ๾਺ແˈ๵ߙະख़

ܿᏆ๾ࣕዐȃߙਸඓৱˈఽ‫܌‬᝘એ਼‫఻ڣ‬ ଻ᗙঽცலపଶܿცනȃ ႪࣱᎿ኷ᄧ໱੒࣭য়ࣖၓ፯ፋˈ‫؃‬ᇵ ፟Ꮾྴ୥ঽએ൰ߑၮಚȃఽ‫܌‬᝘ᅒ޹‫ݓܬ‬ એᎦ२ঐົߟุඈ྾‫؜‬፛٣ܿ྘ଓȂডၟ ࣰܻ፱ˈ‫ئ‬೙ቂହ೭ዉࠞၟමܸऔ‫ۃ‬Ȃኬ ၟႿೢܿऽએȃ Robert ූ‫˖ ݲ‬ Șੌࢬञ൶ळ໸િ‫ށ‬ऽએ औ।ܿ஠‫࣋ܐ‬ਉȃჲᇋ቏Ꮵ৞ࠞၟঽ‫ܠ‬೻ ༝‫ˈޡڈ‬ᇜ෧ખᇋ۰ඈ྾ኍᏭඩȃ༆‫ڈ‬໢ ၻ౦ᇜ૬ᇜ૬ඈ྾຋ᅤˈ༝‫ޡڈ‬ᇜ፛ܿඈ ྾‫ئ‬೙อൺ፩ᅤȃഠ‫ڼ‬ใट૰೙ሯჳၟܻ ঽੌࢬܿሓཧॄˈ኶ହખ໸ุ᎐ਲ -- ඈ྾ – Ꮛቈߙংமȃș ႪࣱᎿቪ೾๗ல୲໸ુിȃ Robert ખ ང˖ Șթ፷เખႹ॥‫ړ‬೾๗ിႪࣱᎿ೭ऽએˈ ࡴ༽ᎳܿᏠठ‫܋‬ി෠಍౟ၟˈ௑เኻ‫ુ؜‬ ଁȃ೾๗ܿ๗፣ञ࠘ࡐଁࡥˈቪႪࣱᎿცഃȂ ू໦ܿኬၟ๜቏࿙ᏮፇठȃႪࣱᎿඈ྾ྈ ࣽܿცၟ‫؜‬੡ุऽએܿၟܻ൶ळˈᇓቪ೾ ๗ܿცၟყ॔‫ڃ‬ရˈ๠ଁॄ‫؜‬ቌ‫؜‬ೢȃș ਾ჉ହਖቈცࡰፃಚ‫خ‬࿩ܿན‫ܐ‬᎐‫ڷ‬ ‫܋‬ിఽ‫܌‬᝘ႪࣱᎿऽએˈࢌᏋ‫ࠞڵޤ‬ၟ‫ޙ‬ નܿ೾๗ல୲ȃ౟ၟ఻‫ܿݞ‬ऽ๗ৠຢ࠘ۙ ܿႪࣱᎿऽએ৿ፊ໸࿙ໍᇜޭˈุ‫ࠞۨ׎‬ ၟ࢑ຢᇜ‫ل‬௦ȃ may 2013

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PERFECTPAIRINGS PRESENTED

CAPE MENTELLE

Shore Restaurant L Place, Central, ፩ L PlaceĂĂĂĂ

Grass-fed Angus beef from North Western Tasmania is the purest

թ፷ྍ཈మೞᆊႠִ‫߼ؠ‬ᆻܿ໤‫ؾ‬՗ࢆ཈೾໸

meat. We dry age it – dry-aged beef has a markedly different ﬂavor

Ꮵۜጸܿ೾๗ȃၻ౦჏ਖ೾๗ࠞ࡞ˈٛໍဵภ

– and cook it sous vide, so it remains juicy. Then we sear it using

‫؜‬࿷ܿ‫ޙ‬࿅ၟܻˈፇॄᇵጡૼ݈ၫെ‫֦ݲ‬ௗ๗

a charcoal grill to caramelize the outside. Good caramelization

ፆˈ኶߼ຢྫྷট૥௰፤ຨˈਖိ‫ل‬૥ፚਤफ़ȃ

produces an umami ﬂavor – that special roasted ﬂavor.

໪ຨ૥ცၟᏋะནለˈุเ໤ቺ‫ܐ‬૑ȃ

The interaction between steak and wine really depends on

ਤफ़‫ޡڋ‬ᇓᏪቑம೾ഠࡘ‫܋‬ിट፯એ൰ȃ

how well the outside of the steak is caramelized. Shiraz is my wine

ႪࣱᎿၟܻແ‫ڀ‬Ȃ‫ݞܕ‬။཰ˈ໸ၻܿ‫ݕ‬ᇜᅤዎȃ

of choice because of its depth of ﬂavor and light acidity. Grass-fed

໤‫ؾ‬೾‫׋‬བல೾๗ܿ๗፣࢑ၓۜጸˈᅍᇋၟܻ

beef has a purer taste than grain-fed. It needs something strong,

፱ᇜ‫ܿݞ‬એˈ࿷໢ቕ‫؜‬೙ᅟ‫޺׹‬᎐ȃఽ‫܌‬᝘Ⴊ

but not overpowering. The red, rich deepness of this Cape Mentelle

ࣱᎿܿແऽ๾ዐቪ೾ഠܿऽ๗޹‫ܿ۫ل‬ၟܻᄳ

Shiraz goes great with the red, rich ﬂavor of the steak.

‫ુڈ‬ിȃ

Shore Executive Chef Jason Black

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may 2013

PERFECTPAIRINGS PRESENTED

CAPE MENTELLE

Ming Court ‫ځ‬ᅦ Langham Place, Mongkok, Hong Kong ცࡰ၅ਲ୏ऑએ‫ݥ‬

Chef Tsang Chiu King’s Wagyu beef with pumpkin mushroom and black truffle sauce is a delicious, evenly balanced dish. The delicate, sweet fruit flavor of the pumpkin works well with the earthy character of the truffle and the meat flavor is quite subtle. Without wine, you feel the sweetness and earthiness of the sauce more strongly. This Shiraz is a very beautiful fruit which balances the sweetness of the pumpkin. The Cape Mentelle wine also has notes of cooking spice, which counter the earthy notes of the mushroom and truffle. The acid in red wine highlights beef flavors. After you have a sip of wine, the pumpkin flavor will be quieted, the mushroom and truffle subdued and the beef will shine. ዕ٫੽Ꮣ‫ܿڷ‬ञ೾Ꮻೌࣂಟࢰঽफམ௷ਟ ౟ၟႇ‫ࢌˈ׋‬፯ၟܻ‫ݲ‬ञܿමܸऔ‫ۃ‬ȃೌ ࣂႿ፛။࿝ܿၟܻቪ‫ܕ‬቏ဌีࠞၟܿམ௷ ঽ๗ၟဵ౟๏ठȃ ‫܋؜‬ിએˈਟፆܿ࿝ၟঽဌၟმܾ਺ ፱ȃጝ፯ႪࣱᎿඈ྾ጡܿभ֙ˈ૰ᇵ፩ञ ೌࣂܿ࿝ၟȃఽ‫܌‬᝘ऽએቂହ‫ݲ‬ၟᇓყ‫ܬ‬ ‫څ‬ፉˈ‫ݲ‬ञಟࢰঽམ௷ܿဌၟˈऽએܿ။ ཰࿷໢೙ငმ೾๗ܿࠞၟȃ᛭ሜᇜଁऽએ ॄˈೌࣂၟঐᄂ໶ˈಟࢰঽམ௷ၟܻ‫ܾק‬ ञ३ˈۨ໢఻‫؝‬ၟ୞ܿጸ໸೾๗ܿ౟ၟȃ

Pairing by Zachary Yu, Wine Guy, Ming Court

Executive Chef – East, Tsang Chiu King ፩‫ج‬ᄵጹᏓ‫ڷ‬ዕ٫੽

ിએ ˖ Șಖ࢈ș໽એ໗቟ၙఘ

may 2013

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PERFECTPAIRINGS PRESENTED

CAPE MENTELLE

St. George Hullett House, Tsim Sha Tsui Ⴔᆻቕ

When pairing wines with food, you either want a perfect match, or a striking clash. This braised beef cheek dish is cooked with prune, chili and black pepper. Served with a smear of parsnip puree and some apple cinnamon confit , it has spice, fruit and sweetness that perfectly echo the spicy, fruity, sweet notes of Cape Mentelle’s Shiraz. It’s such a good match I even used the same wine in the cooking. The beef is also from Australia. I believe it makes sense to pair Australian beef with Australian Shiraz. Matching food and wine from the same area is something we always do in France. ‫خ‬એ‫܋‬ി໢ˈᇋ౓࿡ᏥֈിܿᏠठˈᇋ౓ ખ໸Ꮦ௑เሃჲ‫ࢆܸࠞܿ؜‬ȃጝܻ᭭೾ৢ െᎌࣰ‫ڋ‬ৠຢౖ࡞Ȃଶਢঽफोਢ‫ݲ‬ၟˈ ॄᏫᇵᇜಥ߷ࠞ‫ؾ‬ೝঽྴᏌ๗ࣣ൴࣮ᇜඩ ຢᎷˈ١ඩହცၟȂ࣮ၟᇵঽ࿝ၟ࠘ࡐˈ ቪఽ‫܌‬᝘એᎦܿႪଲᎿऽએෑଶȂ࣮ცঽ ။࿝ܿଁࡥဵ౟‫ݲ‬ञȃ஠ጚ‫܋‬ിܿ߾٢औˈ ၻ່ፚஏെៀᇓቂ࿷କऽએȃ ೾๗ହᏋթ፷ˈ኶ിຢթ፷ႪଲᎿऽ એཕॆ኶Ꮛะ‫ࣰ؜‬ȃ኷ߟ࣭ˈၻ౦भႷ࣒ ‫܋‬ി࿷ٛ‫ܿݓ‬໤႘ቪએᇜඩჴቂȃ Philippe Orrico, Executive Chef, Western Cuisine

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

PERFECTPAIRINGS PRESENTED

CAPE MENTELLE

Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant ‫˘ܠ‬ঔഀฺ‫ظ‬

iSQUARE, Tsim Sha Tsui ৯ຆઠ࣭ৗࣖ٠

Beef belly in chu hou sauce is a very traditional Chinese dish, served

᎒िਟ೾๗໸٢ਈܿ‫ۈ‬࿾፩࣭ல୲ˈ٢Ꮾၓ

warm as an appetizer. Chu hou sauce is a Qing Dynasty sauce made

෇‫ج‬ᇵ฽ധຢᎷȃ᎒िਟყ‫ۈ‬໭Ꮛ෼‫ˈٮ‬ቈ

from fermented soybeans and ginger. It gives the dish a lovely

ߙਸܿ‫ޒܐ‬ঽਕ፟‫ڈ‬ȃ᎒िਟல୲‫ܕ‬Ꮌधऽ

reddish brown color. This particular cut of beef comes from a special

๾ዐˈ௑เၡଁ‫ܐ‬૑ȃ೾๗ถᏋ೾ࡎ‫ܿؠ‬࿅

position around the abdomen of the cow – the meat in this area is

‫ށ‬ฏଐˈ๗፣߾٢๖๢ȃၻնᇜጶଐ๗߼੣

very tender. I cook the piece of meat whole, braising it in the sauce

ਟፆգᎌˈ‫࡚ܐ‬๲ᄆ໢Ꮺቑȃఽ‫܌‬᝘ႪࣱᎿ

for three hours. This Cape Mentelle Shiraz is the perfect choice for

ऽએ‫ܕ‬቏ॗცȂცலঽౖᏊܿၟܻˈጸ໸‫܋‬

the beef. It has a ﬂowery scent, spice, and a plum ﬂavor. It’s a full-

ിጝܻல୲ܿဵ౟ᅤዎȃႪࣱᎿએ࿒ഃूˈ

bodied wine that balances the rich, juicy cut of meat. I love wine

‫܋‬ി๗ፆ࠘ࡐܿ೾๗ࡪࡪऔȃହᏋႠթ‫஀ܐ‬

from Western Australia.

ᆊܿऔએᏓุၻՓ‫؜‬໾༇ȃ

Executive Chef Leung Siu Ming ᄵጹᏓ‫ڷ‬஝ጒಖ may 2013

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tasting notes

߾๗‫؜‬૰ ࢌ໮๗ல୲ሥ቏੪቏

house of meat Blue Butcher’s nose-to-tail meat offerings have been drawing crowds of hungry carnivores WHEN ASKED TO EXPLAIN Blue Butcher’s success, Chef Danny Chaney points to himself, and then says: “You can quote me on that one.” He’s (partly) joking, but there’s no denying the brash self-confidence and sense of rebellion that pervades the entire restaurant, from the New York-style Prohibition warehouse concept to the tattooed staff to the gangsta rap music blaring in the background. “We’re not afraid to cross boundaries here,” says Danny. “We push the limit on everything we do.” Since opening last year, Blue Butcher’s farm-to-fork and nose-to-tail menu has made it a popular destination for Hong Kong’s carnivores. “There are so many good parts of the animal that people don’t often use,” says Malcolm Woods, managing director of Maximal Concepts, the group behind Blue Butcher. “The Chinese eat tongue by itself. They eat cheek and brain. We’re just taking components that have been used in Hong Kong for ages and presenting them in a Western style.” They take steak seriously too. Blue Butcher’s Mayura Farm wagyu sirloin is dry aged for weeks in a meat fridge lined with

ၳܸȘ଻๾ဋ߶ș(Blue Butcher) ‫خ‬࿩ܿ‫ڈ‬ ࢙౷ીˈ᎐‫ ڷ‬Danny Chaney ፑᎼᏋেང ˖ Șೠ౦૰ᇵնၻངܿ૖݂‫ڵ‬ହȃș૰೙቏‫ݞ‬ ֐૑ေᄋˈ‫ܦ‬ྊເຢྈᆶለܿᏋᄪঽᇜཎ ߫ബܿ࿅፣ฬ໦ቪ‫خ‬࿩ܿ‫ޙ‬࿅ࠞࢆ‫؜‬ಮߑ ठˈ۰‫خ‬࿩࿅቏ܿ੦એ௑໢ඓഁኙ‫ط‬ଉࠞ ࢆȂ۩෷఻ເܿ኎ܸࢗफู֔ຳሕ୛ˈ໦ ኷௑เሠჺແ૳ȃ Danny Ꮛऑ‫װ‬໯˖ Șၻ౦ጝ୴վႇ੦৖ˈ ชᄧช‫࣏؜ˈק‬໣౓‫ޕ‬ᇋ١༅٫ኚসქȃș Ș଻๾ဋ߶ș‫֖׭‬ಾ٠ፊཛྷܿ๗൰ঽ۰ ‫׊‬Ꮚܸၛղ࡚೫ܿ‫ج‬๾ˈᏋบ೧૑ಸᇵହˈ ખ‫ڈ‬ၓภࡰ໹๗୔ᾉ౦ܿᄧ‫ڧ‬ȃ ȘMaximal Conceptsș‫خ‬ሜ়တሩከᏓ ৭ Malcolm Woods ྥ ܸ ඥ ჉Ș ଻ ๾ ဋ ߶ ș ዉ‫ܿڈ‬ᅢࠞ໢‫װ‬໯ ˖ Ș‫ވ‬႘ເຢ२቏भ޹भ ֙ܿ‫ؠ‬ၤˈ‫؜‬ቂጡܿ૰Ⴎȃ፩࣭เ቏‫ړ‬ຳ ဂܿႷ࣒ˈ஖ৢञ೑ᇓ‫ޕ‬૰ᇵ๠‫ج‬ȃცࡰ เጝᆼ‫ړ‬औ৅վ೧மˈၻ౦ፔ໸ቂႠ໮֡ Ꭷ፱ᄧնጝᄎ౟ၟ‫ؠ‬ၤ‫ޤ‬ຢᎷȃș ೾ ഠ ໸ ‫ خ‬࿩ ܿ ፱ ‫ ج ݞ‬๾ ፇ ᇜˈ ໪ ቂ ܿ໸թ፷ Mayura ಾ٠ܿञ೾ຢᆿ๗ˈ჏ ቪ Ⴙ మ ଲ ᆈ ຐ ౔ ࣘ ᆑ Ꭰ ࿷ ፜ ቙ ୩ ‫ ع‬༃ˈ ุ ໍ ܿ ೾ ๗ Ꮛ ะ ኶ ༝ ‫ ڈ‬༮ ፵ˈ ඓ ৱ ࠞ ປ ‫ ؜‬࿮ ‫ ݓ‬ከ Ꭱˈ ၓ ܿ ໸ ุ ᆑ ੰ ๵ ‫ ૼ ؝‬න ፩ˈ ૂ እ ໋ ๠ ೾ ๗ȃ ೾ ๗ ੶ ۨ ‫ ݲ‬ၟ ᬶ ፟ ॄˈ ๗ ፣ ๢ ೘Ȃ ๗ ც ඄ ‫ ׊‬෩ ၟ ܻ ࠘ ۙȃ Danny २ᇵ‫ޙ‬౤ცலിߴ࡞ᬶ೾๗ˈȘ૥

“We’re not a steakhouse,” says Blue Butcher Chef Danny Chaney (photo opposite). “We are a meat house.” “ၻ౦‫؜‬ፔ໸೾լ߶”Ș଻๾ဋ ߶ș ‫خ‬࿩ܿ᎐‫ ڷ‬Danny Chaney ངˈ “ߑ໸๗໤ܿ᎟য়ȃ”

Mayura Farm wagyu sirloin, grilled to perfection after being dry aged for four weeks in a meat fridge lined with blocks of pink Himalayan salt. ହᏋMayuraಾ٠ܿञ೾ຢᆿ๗ቪႹమଲ ᆈຐ౔ࣘᆑᎠ࿷፜቙୩‫ع‬༃Ꮛะ኶‫ڈ‬༝ ॄན፵ˈ໻‫ޡ‬፤ຨॄຢᎷˈცනནለȃ

tasting notes

Pork Chop and Apple Sauce: rich, smoky, bacon-washed scotch is served over crushed ice with a spoon of applesauce. ᎆഠ൴࣮ਟ˖ਖ഻ࢎ੩๠ཤࢆୁ၉໰৖‫ݲ‬ി๠ၟˈৠຢ ླྀ‫׼‬ঽᇜ‫ږ‬൴࣮ਟຢᎷˈ‫ܕ‬቏ഃታܿᆏᅯცၟȃ

blocks of pink Himalayan salt. A fan blows on the salt and circulates the spiced air, seasoning and curing the meat. The result is a consistently tender piece of meat with a bold, concentrated flavor. Danny also uses a special dry-aging rub that “creates the really great crust on the steak that everyone talks about.” Just don’t call it a steakhouse. “We’re not a steakhouse,” Danny says adamantly. “We are a meat house. We are meat-oriented.” Steak is just one player in a lineup that has included Kurobuta pig belly, veal cheek and sweetbreads, oxtail, duck, and Australian Salt Bush lamb shoulder. They brine and cook five or six pig heads each week to prepare their pig’s head terrine. On any given Friday night, five or six dozen orders of bone marrow fly out of the kitchen. Even the drinks are meat-inspired, with names like “Pork Chop and Apple Sauce” and “Pig’s Blood Martini.” A three-kilo French lamb shoulder recently made its debut on the menu. Poached in rosemary-infused olive oil for 24 hours to melt the fat into the meat and then finished off in the oven for forty minutes, the lamb is pink and tender on the inside

and beautifully charred on the outside. It has been selling out almost every night. Though Blue Butcher is now a firm fixture in the Hong Kong dining scene, Malcolm and Danny aren’t inclined to coast. “We keep things fresh and change the menu every three to five months,” says Malcolm. “Source the meat properly, choose the ingredients well, and let the food do the talking.”

‫ ڵ‬ହ ܿ ೾ ഠ ‫ װ‬ಅ ‫ ߑ ۽‬ც න ན ለˈ ‫ܿ ࣰ ړ‬ ‫ޕ‬ངኻșȃ ‫ܦ‬໸඾ွ‫׳‬ངȘ଻๾ဋ߶șፔ໸ᇜয়լ ߶ȃDanny ખቮන৮‫˖ ݲූݓށ‬ Șၻ౦‫؜‬ፔ ໸೾լ߶ˈ ߑ໸๗໤ܿ᎟য়ȃၻ౦ፔെៀ๗ȃ ș ጝय़૰ཎऒ‫؜‬০ ˖‫ܠج‬ຢግ‫ܸ؜‬ბჁ ঳ၛએড૔๭ຆଲȃ‫خ‬࿩‫ڼ‬ம೾ഠိˈ२ ቏फᬯᎆ‫ޠ‬Ȃ೘ᄆ೾ৢড೾ᄽრȂ೾ၛȂ ᅿ๗ঽթ፷დ‫ؾ‬ᆵ৴݃ࢌ໮๗୥ல୲ȃȘ଻ ๾ဋ߶ș൶ૂᇜ፵ᇋቂႎܸ௜ࢋᎆဂହᏭ ྊ౦ၮಚܿᎆဂ๗ਟ ˗ௐိˈใटᇜࢋᄬ ඓႎးຢˈ‫ޕ‬ঐ቏ਖ੧޹‫܌‬௜඘ໟಚᾉ૴ ፑಚᇋ‫ݞ‬ྊ౦‫ޙ‬࿅ܿࢺཷல୲ȃ኷ጝ୴ˈ ່ፚஏ‫ݲ‬એ‫ޕ‬ᇵ๗୥ல୲ၓௌࡥହኑˈ‫׋‬ ๜Șᎆഠ൴࣮ਟșডȘᎆᅭమ‫ݺ‬ೞș݃݃ȃ ‫خ‬࿩တެᏥᄧᆓߙܿ‫ج‬ᬗ‫צ‬໸፱‫܌‬๲ ࢞ਗ਼ܿߟ໮ᆵ৴ȃ৴๗੩๠ৠຢ౳‫ݷ‬ცܿ ᩢᩀቌ፩ˈ݈ၫᬶ፟ߗໟནᄆ໢ุቌፅဵ ภ๏๠๗፩ˈ߼๠૥ძནໟࠍ፬ॄˈᆵ๗ ๢೘Ȃ‫ࠒډ‬ऽ๾ዐˈိ൝ዏ૥ܿਤ‫۽‬Ȃම ܸऔ‫ۃ‬ȃထ‫ڵ‬ፚੜ৅ॆ౞းᄁ༌ᇜૼȃ Ș଻๾ဋ߶șᇲ኷ცࡰ‫خ‬ሜ੒ዹၱਰ‫ˈ؞‬ ‫ ܦ‬Malcolm ঽ Danny ஠เ૰‫؜‬ᇵۨᏋ఻ȃ Malcolm ང ˖ Ș౞๲ܸႎࢋኟၻ౦ঐ࢑ᄧ‫ج‬ ‫ˈܠ‬ၕ‫ڕ‬ᄧბࡥˈ‫ۑި؜‬ᄧȃșྊࠍ႟ܻ ˖ Șၕ‫ڕ‬൰፣ၱ‫ܿށ‬๗ኑȂੴᄩ࿡ᅤᏥ৞໤‫ˈإ‬ ਖྋ౦ܿଁၟቪଁࡥߙংܸস፛ˈખ໸૴ เᇜହ኶ହܿኊሓծȃș may 2013

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؋ṻ‫ݕ‬ፇᏥ

The Best of Burgundy

Josephine Rozman

Three great Fren e ch chefs prepare Burgundy menus for Le French GourMay.

presented by

Chef Frederic Chabbert’s crayﬁsh Morvan with Vin Jaune, morels and celeriac risotto ཱ₠Ựᛑშᇰᨫྭ፭ᨲ᫶ཫᄩ᪣

Chef Dominique Bugnand’s slow-poached egg with Brittany artichoke mash and parmesan foam ߟ࣭ᆊጿᎊํി⮱‫ܫ‬ঽղమ‫ٻ‬ጾ໰സಪ

WHEN PEOPLE THINK of classic French cuisine, the dishes and products that first come to mind are often those of one region which lies at the heart of France, and at the heart of French gastronomy: Burgundy. There is a striking sophistication in the cooking of the region, but traditions are deeply rooted in a sense of terroir, in a strong relationship with the land and its bounty. Petrus Chef de Cuisine Frederic Chabbert likens Burgundian cuisine to a girl from the country in a beautiful dress. The quality of the region’s produce, including wild mushrooms, truffles, and

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may 2013

blackcurrants (for cassis), is outstanding. Burgundy is home to Charolais beef cattle, one of the world’s most famous breeds. Bresse chicken and pigeon abound in Burgundy and have their own AOC, a special French certification of quality. “Most of the restaurants in Burgundy have their own farms nearby,” says Vida Rica’s new Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand. “Chefs only use the vegetables or herbs planted on their own properties, harvested on the same day they’re cooked. They couldn’t be fresher.” The region’s wines, from Chablis in the north down to the Côte de Nuits and the

Côte du Beaune in the south, have been inspiring chefs for generations with their elegance, bouquet and quiet power. Two of the region’s iconic dishes, Boeuf Bourguignon and Coq au Vin, are centred on wine. Vineyard snails are simmered in it, river fish is poached in it; pork, when not being made into sausages and pâté, is sautéed in it, and even the famous Epoisses cheese has its distinctive orange rind washed in it. “Burgundy is a beautiful region,” says Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Exécutif of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. “Everything turns around food and wine.”

The Best of Burgundy presented by

ངܸߟ࣭౟໤ˈᏥ჏࠶ო೑ࣴܿ‫ॆိ؜‬๲ ࢋᏍ ˖؋ṻ‫ݕ‬ȃ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬Ᏸథ቙ߟ࣭፩‫ؠ‬༑ ഁฏቱˈၓߟ໮ல୲ܿᄩኽ‫ܿݓܬˈܕݓ‬ ࿅ٛঽ౟໤௑เۖიȃ ؋ṻ‫ߴݓݕ‬ல୲ܿੴ፛‫ޡڋ‬௑เ᪏ຳȃ ቅઌܿ౟໤‫ۈ‬࿾ቪ࿅༓ܿ‫ݓ‬ᄳࠞဌ (terroir) ঽ႘ٛႩႩყ࣋ȃᧁ‫خ܁‬࿩ (Petrus) ᎐‫ڷ‬ ໚ ؊ ܽ (Frederic Chabbert) ᄳ ๒ ؋ ṻ ‫ ݕ‬ல ୲๜ᇜၤ‫ۆ‬ຢ൨தᇣ຤ȂࠞᏂ۟ኙܿხ‫܂‬ ຬഉȃ ؋ṻ‫ڵݕ‬ٛܿᇑࢰȂམ௷ঽ‫ى‬㾀Ꮚ ( ೭ ፟फ۴୺એኊலፇᇜ ) ༈ณᇜፑˈᇓ໸໱

੒ፃಚ൰፯჋దସ೾ (Charolais) ܿኊٛ‫ݓ‬ȃ ‫ݓܬ‬໓ٛܿ‫؝‬ள཈঳ঽ๞ࢀ࢑ঠܾߟ࣭ߟ ‫ށ‬൰፣࣏፟‫׭‬ዽ AOCȃ ቸኔ (Vida Rica) ᄧใᄵጹᏓ‫ַڷ‬ಙ୛ (Dominique Bugnand) ᇓ ྥ ܸ ˖ Ș؋ṻ‫ܿݕ‬ ‫خ‬࿩৅ॆ‫ޕ‬቏᎟༥ഄ٠ˈ‫ڷ‬໗౦ᇓႷ࣒ፔ ቂࡒ੧Ꮛয়ഄ٠ໍٛܿ༐‫ج‬ডც‫ؾ‬ፋ႘ȃ ო‫ت‬ოቂˈ኶ᄧბ‫ࣰ؜‬ȃș ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬ᇓ໸ፃಚܿඈ྾એٛ‫ˈݓ‬۰჋ ‫؝‬அ (Chablis)Ȃᇚง (Côte de Nuits) ܸ؏ ೆง (Côte du Beaune)ˈቈִፚೌ޹ࢋٛฏ ೭፟ܿඈ྾એۙ౟Ȃ੻ᆈˈ঱ߙ‫ܗ୿ߴݓ‬

‫ܿڷܐ‬ႇქ‫ۑ‬ሃȃඈ྾એޭல୲ܿ፱ᇋᄹˈ ‫ޤ‬૛ऽએ᭭೾๗ঽऽએ঑࢞঳஠‫ߴݓܐ‬౟ ໤ু૰ਈᇜքȃऽએ኷؋ṻ‫ݕ‬૰ང໸ႇྈ ‫؜‬኷ˈ᭭ᎌၸ೾ቂએȂ༽ᎌतቢᇓৠએ ˗ ᎆ๗‫؜‬Ꮾც٥ড๗തˈᇓ૰ቂऽએც৲๠ ၟȃ່ፚ໸቏Șඩཌྷፇ၀ș‫څ‬खܿՑ؉ᄏ ཈ (Epoisses) ᇓ໸੩๠ऽએ޹۫Ⴛ‫ݎ‬༝‫ڈ‬ ॄ‫ئ‬ዉખᩬॵ๾ዐܿိ൝ȃ ߟ໮ல୲፱ጭȘL’Atelier de Joël RobuchonșᄵጹᏓ‫ ڷ‬Olivier Elzer ፊไ‫؜‬ও˖ Ș؋ ṻ‫ݕ‬໸ࢋ౟‫؜‬໕༆ܿ‫ˈߴݓ‬ᆞਈྈঽબ໸ ౟໤ۙએȃș

Chef Olivier Elzer’s Charolais beef chuck cooked in classic Burgundy style ऽએ᭭ߟ࣭჋దହ೾๗֎໢௑༐‫ج‬

may 2013

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Restaurant Petrus Chef de Cuisine Frederic Chabbert

Josephine Rozman

᎐‫ڷ‬໚؊ܽ

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may 2013

“Some boundaries are necessary,” says

The Best of Burgundy

Chef Frederic Chabbert. “You ask some-

Restaurant Petrus

them any clues as to which colors you

ᧁ‫خ܁‬࿩

Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong ࡰܵცࢆ୴ଲ‫ܐ‬એ‫ݥ‬

one to decorate your house but don’t give prefer? No way!” In creating a Burgundian menu, he embraced the regional flavor palette, starting by thinking of all the inspiring produce for which Burgundy is famous: Frog legs. Snails. Morels. Bresse poultry. And it’s May. “All chefs love May,” Chef Frederic says. “It is when the colors start to become brighter and stronger – a great time for creating.” Because many of his guests don’t like risotto, he chops seasonal celeriac into tiny pieces to resemble rice grains, then assembles them as if making risotto, with Vin Jaune, Parmesan, morels and crayﬁsh. Bresse pigeon gets a refreshingly tart touch with a lemon glaze and is served with brocoletti. Everyone is moving towards vegetables these days, says Chef Frederic. He has halved his butter content in the last ﬁve years and likes to blend a contemporary approach with classic sauces and other touches. Would he describe his cooking as a modern take on Burgundy? “I guess my grandmother would not cook like this,” he says. “We have to move on. We need to be able to walk after dinner.” ᧁ ‫ خ ܁‬࿩ (Restaurant Petrus) ᎐ ‫ ڷ‬໚ ؊ ܽ Ș቏໢ृ੒ღᇋड़ (Frederic Chabbert) ‫װ‬໯ ˖ ෼‫ ڽ‬Ȃངಖռ ȃჸขเହয়୴Ꭷᅃษ‫ࡻ؜‬ ፃႹ॥໣౓ᆘ๾ܿय़ˈࢎׁખᄵ‫؜‬࿳ʽșሓ ۨ໚᎐‫ڷ‬ᇵಖმܿ‫ߴݓ‬࿅๾౟໤ၓ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬࿄ ‫ܿخ‬᎐፺ˈᇵ‫ڵݓܬ‬ٛܿ໤‫إ‬ၓௌࡥହኑˈ ๜෷ဧဓȂၸ೾Ȃᆵ‫ޠ‬ᘯঽ‫؝‬ள཈෴೮݃ȃ ᇓጸऔ໢ᅗ੣๠ႎኟˈ໚؊ܽᄰࠓܿང˖ Ș౞ ࢋ‫ڷ‬໗‫ޕ‬Փႎኟȃጝࢋ໢ृᆘ๾ᎉਐ‫ᦤܾק‬ ࠎ෗ᆞˈጸ໸‫ۑ‬ሃኑኑ‫ܿુ؜‬໢૳ȃ șྊၓ ம‫؜‬Ⴙ॥‫ړ‬᭭߰ܿ૴เਖ໢௑ܿଐࢎෲ‫ج‬෧ ‫ڈ‬Ⴟଐˈಠ೟౶߰ܿଁࡥȃᇓ߹ዉ᭭߰െ‫ݲ‬ ࣰ‫ॄˈڋ‬ৠ๠ߟ࣭ॵએȂജఫ຀ඩཌྷȂᆵ‫ޠ‬ ᘯঽ‫༽ܨ‬ᷝჁᇜඩல୲ȃௐိˈྊ२ਨຢ೸ ౩ਟፆၓ‫؝‬ள཈๞ࢀ‫ܕ‬ହ။཰෼༻ܿଁࡥˈ Ꮻᇵ෷ॗ‫ج‬ಆຢᎷȃ໚؊ܽූ‫ˈݲ‬ጝࢋ໢‫ܗ‬ ਝઈ਌૜ሜ໤ȃሓࣰۨบႎ೧ହல୲ܿ೾ቌ ࣽ஢ਂமᇜ‫ˈ֐ܐ‬ถߑ‫ܗ‬ፇܿ໸๏ठ‫ۈ‬࿾ঽ

Bresse Chicken dodine with black trufﬂe and foie gras ߟ࣭ॵ঳ (‫؝‬ள཈঳) ിफམ௷ᅿࡣ

ო‫ܿܗ‬െ‫ߴݲ‬໮ȃၳܸ໸ࠨྊᏭܿ໸ო‫֋ܗ‬ ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬౟ၟ˛᎐‫ܕڷ‬น‫˖ ܻ܍‬ Șၻ೉೉ೄ໢ ૰೙‫؜‬໸ጝᆼᎌܿȃ‫ܦ‬ၻ౦ᇋ࢏ຢ໢‫ˈܗ‬ፚ ຬး‫ဵړخ‬२૰ᇵඩହ኶๵‫؞‬ᇜ჉ծȃ ș may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

Vida Rica Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand ቸኔᄵጹᏓ‫ַڷ‬ಙ୛჏ໍ

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

The Best of Burgundy

Duck liver terrine with ﬁg chutney and warm brioche ᅿࡣിႇॗ࣮ ‫ތ‬ঽ฽೉ቌಅ֡

Vida Rica ቸኔ

Mandarin Oriental, Macau թ౤ၭख़‫ߴބ‬એ‫ݥ‬

Historical research was the inspiration for Chef Dominique Bugnand’s seven-

ᄵጹᏓ‫ַڷ‬ಙ୛ (Dominique Bugnand) ထ‫ॹݖܿڵ‬໓

course Emperor’s Table dinner. He takes the preferred foods of Napoleon,

ᆪ඘ܻ‫ޕࢋࢋˈجܐ‬቏୿໨‫ࢽݟ‬ȃྊੴᄩᆓઈߟୁႠ‫ݖ‬

the first emperor of France, and transforms those simple eggs, humble

࣭‫ݕ‬ᇜใॹ‫ݖ‬ೀൿఙႹՓܿல୲ˈਖ൶ߩႇඟܿ঳‫ܫ‬Ȃ

potatoes, macaroni and Parmesan cheese into gastronomic delights. “Creative

మை༞Ȃ࿳ᄩࠒঽജఫ຀ඩཌྷ‫ݞ‬໠‫ڈ‬ਜ਼ˈफ़ၓᇜܻܻ౟

interpretation” is how he describes this process. He even dares to update

ၟ৞ᬗȃַಙ୛‫ڋࣰۨڅ‬ၓȘ‫ۑ‬ሃᓊ໾ș ȃྊቁ቙‫ۑ‬ᄧˈ

Baked Alaska, taking a torch to it for alluring color. He beautifully constructs

່ፚ‫࡙ܣܐ‬ட࿝‫ݞ‬Șটᆩᅬຐș(Baked Alaska)ˈቂൂ

a single raviolo from strands of spaghetti, stuffs it with aromatic black trufﬂe

ැ፤ຨ‫ڵ‬௑เ૑ၡܿ๾ዐȃᏓ‫ڷ‬ௐိቂ‫ڈ‬ఇܿሃ‫஀ܐ‬ಅ

juice, and puts mushrooms on the side. A slow-poached egg comes with

࿢፟ᏮዉᄲႿ፛ܿሃ‫஀ܐ‬ਲ਼ˈ೗࣯फམ௷ਟፆˈᇜയᏫ

Parmesan foam and artichoke mash. He presents his own version of Chicken

ᇵಢࢰຢᎷ ˗२቏ాটᎌ‫܋ܫ‬ിജఫ຀ඩཌྷಪঽ‫ٮ‬ბৈ

Marengo, a highly rustic dish made by Napoleon’s head chef, and lifts it to

ํˈ‫ޕ‬໸౟ၟܿੇᏮȃೀൿఙ༈Ⴖ‫ڷ‬Ꮚೀ༇ܿხ‫܂‬ல୲

new ﬂavor proﬁles. Chef Dominique is from Burgundy, and he works proudly

૥ߟ࣭঳ˈᇓ኷ַಙ୛࡙ܿட჉ˈၟܻ࢑໸ᇜુȃᏓ‫ڷ‬

with his region’s produce, which for him sings of clean soil and unpolluted

‫ڵ‬ເ؋ṻ‫ޭˈݕ‬቙ክቼᏋ࡞઄ဌีঽ෼઄༽ኑܿয়ხഄ

water. His inclusion of a Chablis with a platter of iconic Burgundy cheeses

ٛՓ‫؜‬໾༇ˈᇓᏋऑ‫؜‬ᇲȃྊᇓထߤᇜֈเไၓඩཌྷሥ

and wines is a reminder that, though many think that cheese should be

ࡘ‫܋‬ിऽએܿჲߟˈᇵ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬჋‫؝‬அٛռએിຢጋഡඩ

eaten with red wine, a white Burgundy makes a stunning match.

ཌྷ൭ധˈ౟಍Ꮓၟ௑เુܴȃ

The Best of Burgundy

Ballotine of Bresse chicken stuffed with foie gras, Dijon mustard and white wine jelly ߟ࣭‫؝‬ள཈঳શ೭ᅿࡣ֎ ߟ໮ੑದፆঽռએ࣮‫ތ‬

L ’Atelier de Joël Robuchon The Landmark, Central ፩०፜‫ࣖݓ‬٠

Expensive wine isn’t necessary for making Burgundian dishes like Coq

ᄵጹᏓ‫ ڷ‬Olivier Elzer ไၓˈல୲ऽએ᭭೾๗ডऽએ঑

au Vin and Boeuf Bourguignon, says Chef Olivier Elzer – though he was

࢞঳‫؜؃‬ᇜ‫ށ‬ᇋ໪ቂ՟ࣦܿඈ྾એȃ‫ࣰ؜‬ฬ໦ዕ቏เࠥ

once asked to make the iconic beef dish with a bottle of DRC (Domaine

ຢภฉፃಚˈ൰፣Ꮵ৞ȂᏥ՟ࣦܿ؋ṻ‫ݕ‬టఽೞ૜‫ݖ‬

Romanee-Conti), the estate in Burgundy that produces some of the

ٛฏ (Domaine Romanee-Conti) ৞೭ˈขᏓ‫ڷ‬െ‫ݲ‬᭭

world’s ﬁnest and costliest wines. But it does make sense to use a good

೾๗ல୲ȃ‫ܦ‬๩ᇋ፟Ꮾ‫๋ݕ‬ੑದ‫ˈތ‬ቂຢᇜ൸औܿ؋

white Burgundy for the Dijon mustard jelly which sets over his Bresse

ṻ‫ݕ‬ռએ૰ང໸ག୲‫ڈ‬ዽˈ‫܋‬ി‫؝‬ள཈঳࣯߅ࡣຢᎷˈ

chicken stuffed with foie gras, the starter on his Burgundy menu. As beﬁts

ખ໸ Olivier Ꮣ‫ڷ‬؋ṻ‫ݕ‬࿄‫ܿخ‬૑ၡ෇‫ج‬ȃऽએ᭭೾๗

the L’Atelier style, Chef Olivier’s cooking emphasizes innovation, though

໪ቂཱིܿะ໸৴੺๗ȂಢࢰȂᆶۭಆঽ഻ࢎ݃‫ۈ‬࿾ܿᅳ

with Boeuf Bourguignon he works with the traditional chuck cut and the

٢໤‫ˈإ‬ྊ้ᏨᅰȘL’Atelier de Joël Robuchonșߟ໮

usual mushrooms, baby onions and bacon. It’s the presentation which is

‫خ‬࿩ܿੴໄˈ‫ި؜‬١༅‫ۑ‬ᄧ༇ߟȃ Olivier ‫܋جڵ‬ിܿ

more intricate, and modern. His least typical dish is lobster fricassee. It

༇ߟሞเ๠໕Ȃ௑เߓ಼ᇜᄧˈඝ፩ᇵߟ࣭ॵએ ( ٛᏋ

incorporates Vin Jaune from the nearby Jura region, but it is paired with

஽੧ܿᑝటฏ ) ‫ݲ‬ၟܿਟ঑௝Ⴡˈ‫ڵ‬เሃலܿᏫᇵ؋ṻ

seasonal Burgundy asparagus. “The dish is a balance of texture and

‫ݕ‬໢௑௬ྀຢᎷˈ‫ޙ‬નᇜࢆȃྊᏋऑ‫װ‬໯ ˖ Șጝܻ‫ۑج‬

ﬂavor,” says Chef Olivier. He embraces typical Burgundian dishes for the

ዉ‫ࡥଁڵ‬ቪၟܻܿဵ౟൶ळȃșOlivier ዕ኷؋ṻ‫ࢗݕ‬Ꮾ

fascinating stories behind their evolution, and having worked in the region

ࣰན೧ˈޭ቙‫ۈ‬࿾‫ߴݓ‬ல୲ᇜ௸ᆠ੣ࣰܿ‫ڋ‬ঽࢽ໳฀቏

for four years, says he loves everything about it – the produce, the wines,

‫ޙ‬፬ȃ‫࣏؜‬໸໤‫إ‬ȂۙએȂ‫خ‬࿩ড‫ݓܬ‬જಐˈOlivier ངˈ

the restaurants, the people, all of Burgundy.

؋ṻ‫ܿݕ‬ᇜ෧ྊ‫ޕ‬ႹՓȃ

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Chef de Cuisine Exécutif Olivier Elzer

may 2013

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Aqua Spirit’s guests don’t have to choose between a great view and a great drink “I’VE BEEN WORKING here for seven and a half years and I never find the view boring,” says Milan Gurung, supervisor and mixologist at Aqua Spirit bar. “At seven o’ clock it gets dark and I am always: Wow!” The view is dramatic, the interior elegant. Shallow glass bowls filled with acid yellow lilies and floating white candles add an element of water, reflecting the name of the bar. All of which sets the stage for Aqua Spirit’s delicious, beautifully presented cocktails. Milan is deft, swift and poised as he

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

mixes a drink. He has a passion for the ritual of making a cocktail. “In my business, you need to be a performer. When you are mixing a cocktail you can’t look like a zombie – you have to smile and connect with the guests. From the moment they choose the drink until they finish it, it is a journey. Like performance art.” One of Milan’s exquisite inventions is a twist on a margarita. “I mix tequila with yuzu and elderflower cordial to make it fresh. The tea is light and gives a Japanese influence to the drink.”

Light green fluid envelops a rough chunk of ice. Three Kaffir lime leaves rest against the side of the glass. The rim is edged with green tea-flavored sea salt. “It’s simply presented in a rock glass,” says Milan. “The drink is green and the rim is green, very lush and tropical. And Kaffir lime leaves have the most beautiful fragrance.” There is an aromatic sourness at first sip, which cleaves the tongue, spreading pungent citrus all over the mouth. Milan explains: “Yuzu is a type of Japanese lime you use at two stages of ripeness. We use the young lime in this drink. It’s more sour and aromatic than a regular lime. It lifts and is refreshing. I call it Nippon Damashi. The words mean Japanese heart, Japanese spirit.”

world class

ௌᄹ࿒ᆬ

spiritual experience NIPPON DAMASHI ׁ๊ᄩ ġ 1 ½ ġoz Tequila Don Julio Añejo ġ ġՠཌྷ ླोஅഒ௝ຳୁ ġ 1 ġoz pure yuzu juice ՠཌྷ ׁ๊ۜᨋᏊፆ ġ ¾ ġoz elder ﬂower cordial ՠཌྷ ਾࢺ಻ॗ௷

Pour all the ingredients into a mixing glass. Shake with ice. Roll the rim of a rock glass in green tea sea salt. Fine strain the drink into the glass over a big cube of ice. Garnish with Kafﬁr lime leaves. Cheers! ਖྈ቏‫إ‬ல߼๠‫ݲ‬એְ፩ˈৠ๠‫׼‬ଐ ॄᇂְ‫ݲ‬፟ȃਾᎼᇵ၉໰৖ְኒዯถ ఍‫ࣴى‬ᆑˈ‫؃‬ਖᇂእࣰఌॄܿ‫ڈ‬൰ி ኷ְ೗ܿ‫ܐ‬ଐ‫׼‬ຢȃᏥॄᇵ೸౩ᇗ‫ݞ‬ Ꮁȃ࡞ְʽ

኷ጝ୴ຢօᇓ቏඘೧֐மˈ‫ܦ‬ၻޭᆞ෇౟ ੹۰ၝࡥܸᆤ઴ࣰȃșAqua Spirit ܿએծ᎐ ࣏৳‫ݲ‬એ໗ Milan Gurung ང ˖ Ș౞࿙඘‫ݞ‬ ૑໭࿙फˈၻᏓ໸੦‫؜‬᎘ঐངᇜ໌ ˖ဦʽș ૴เ኶‫؜‬ᅍ኷౟੹ቪ౟એৱᏮ઺ዎˈ ሓྊ౦‫ޕ‬૰኷ Aqua Spirit ੪ჴ౟੹คਗȃ ‫ိۍ‬౟੹ႇ‫ˈ݋‬એծ೗‫ؠ‬Ꭷᢧዏ໸ࡴࣦቄ ᆈȃॵ๾վठ‫఻ن‬؄ஊ්؈ˈ൨࠶ܿᎋࣕ ‫ܿ༽ڵݞ‬ሃ੼ˈ‫ڵڃ‬மએծܿಚ‫˄څ‬Aqua Spirit ፩ၭ૰੍Ꮾ༽ፇሃ˅ȃጝᇜ෧໪ Aqua Spirit ‫ڈ‬ၓ໻ठ‫ݲ‬፟ၟܻȂዉᄲબ৞ܿ঳ၛ એܿᏥ৞႑ྕȃ ‫ ݲ‬፟ ሜ ல ໢ ܿ Milan ໸ ௌ ෠Ȃ ᅻ ཨȂ ྖะᏋ๩ܿȃྊ᎙፱‫ݲ‬એᇨ໮ ˖ ȘᏭጝᄵˈ ‫כ‬ᅐႹ॥‫ڈ‬ၓᇜಚ‫װ‬ᆠጚȃ኷‫ݲ‬એ໢ˈ૰ ‫؜‬೙ჸ ᷲ ໝᇜᆼ - ೠܾ໢໢֦‫ڕ‬။ᄋ‫؃‬ቪ ૴ॖ॔‫ވ‬ȃ۰ᅤዎᇋङܿሜலܸङဵၓፒˈ

ޭ૴ॖߑᆗጝખ໸ᇜྸఄ‫ݲˈڋ‬એ໸ᇜ౤ ‫װ‬ᆠᇶ༦ȃș Milan ᎇ޹ߙಖፇᇜ໸࿓ᇜֈܿఫࢆ ୻࿅ዓ࿚ᇜಥᄧሃȃྊང ˖ ȘၻᇵᨋᏊፆञ ਾࢺ಻ॗ௷ছठ௝ຳୁˈ‫ۑ‬ዉ‫ڵ‬ᄧბଁࡥȃ ෼ᄧܿ఍‫ى‬ዏ‫ܕ‬ହᇜཎׁ๊ࠞၟȃș ෼ᄧ఍ᇛၐ฻‫ࣙ؜‬ዏܿ‫ܐ‬ଐ‫ۨˈ׼‬໢ ๲൥೸ᇗ੻੻૦኷ְ‫ְߑˈف‬ኒዏዯ఻ ఍‫ଁى‬ၟܿࣴᆑȃȘ఍๾ሜல‫܋‬ി఍๾ְ ኒˈ ࢬ ဇ ࡐ ቏ ‫ ܁ ص‬฽ ‫ ࠞ ܕ‬฀ȃ ೸ ౩ ᇗ ዏ

ঐ࿓ሜல‫ܕ‬ହ෼ცනႩˈᎧ๠၉໰৖ְ ু૰ȃș ‫ݕ‬ᇜଁˈ١ܸᇜࢼ߳ც཰ၟˈഃታܿ ࡡᩬࠉ߳۰ຳ৯‫ۃ‬૑໭఼ᆖȃMilan ੍໾ ܻ˖ ȘᨋᏊ໸ᇜ፯ׁ๊཰‫ڇ‬ȃᇜֈ‫ت‬ቂܿ໸ ‫ާੂߗݕ‬༝‫ܿڈ‬ᨋᏊˈ‫ࣰ؜‬ጝକሜ൰፩໪ ቂܿ໸਺෷࣮ܿஆȃञᇜֈᨋᏊყ‫ˈ׋‬ၟ ܻ൤཰෩ცၟ਺ၓഃታˈࢍเ‫ܕ‬ହ९ะᇜ ᄧܿࡥ།ȃၻਖሜலಛಚၓ Nippon Damashiˈሃཋ໸ׁ๊ᄩȃș

Tequila Don Julio Añejo is the tequila of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the world’s best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

may 2013

| TASTING KITCHEN |

DEDICATED TO APPRECIATING THE BEST MINDS IN THE WORLD OF WINE

౟એጧྪ

wine detective The Peninsula Hong Kong’s Chief Sommelier Bhatia Dheeraj sleuths the globe searching for new wine regions, excellent small vineyards and delicious undiscovered wines. He manages a list with over 900 different wines, for all of The Peninsula’s restaurants. Tasting Kitchen caught up with him in the elegant surroundings of Gaddi’s restaurant to quiz him about his craft.

§ ცࡰ֐ܵએ‫ݥ‬༈Ⴖ໽એ໗

‫ۤ؜‬ᄦ୒Ꮦ‫׬‬໱੒ࢌ‫ˈݓ‬ፔၓᅳߺᄧએხˈߙ઻ᄆߑ౟ܿඈ྾ኍቪ಼ ෇้಩಩ႇಚܿ߳ცۙએȃྊ೟‫ڵ‬ᇜጀ٣‫܌‬઎վ቟፯એ୥ܿ෼‫ܵ֐ࢍˈܠ‬એ ‫ݥ‬ྈ቏ܿ‫خ‬࿩‫ૣد‬ȃTasting Kitchen նၾጝ೎ܾܿ঩ঐˈ኷ষ‫ݓ‬໰‫خ‬࿩ቄᆈ ܿࠌၐ፩ჹྊ࿃਷൰١౟એܿ౷ߴȃ

When you bring new wines onto the list, what is your thought process? The first thing that comes to mind is the cuisine – at which of The Peninsula’s restaurants will a particular wine fit? The next thing I consider is diversity. Everyone’s palate is different. Some people like complex wines, others prefer something more direct. I am a wine detective, here to understand your palate and pick the type of wine you will enjoy most. Do you think of a dish first and then a wine that pairs with it, or do you see a wine and then imagine which dish it would suit?

| TASTING KITCHEN |

may 2013

Both. I work very closely with the chefs here, picking wines to complement their menus. From time to time we invite all the chefs to a food and wine tasting. Sometimes the food can be adjusted to suit the wine. For example there was a dark chocolate profiterole dessert which I wanted to pair with a very natural sweet red wine, a little like a port – the 2005 Mas Amiel Maury Vintage Charles Dupuy from Languedoc-Roussillon, France. We tasted this wine with the dessert, but the wine actually overpowered the chocolate. The chef needed to make the sauce more bitter and chocolaty, so he adjusted it and now it is on our Diamond Jubilee menu. I have to be flexible on my side too and work

‫ܬ‬ೠնರ፯ᄧએৠ๠෼‫ˈܠ‬ೠঐ჏ჲܸ໣ ౓˛ ‫ݕ‬ᇜࢋૣఈܿ‫ܬ‬ะ໸‫ج‬ᬗˈၻঐჲጝ એ‫਺׋‬໻ठ֐ܵએ‫ݥ‬ುᇜয়‫خ‬࿩‫جܿڵ‬ ๾˛኶ହၻঐჲܸ޹ᆼᄹȃሓၓ౞ࢋเܿ ଁၟ‫؜‬࿷ˈ቏เՓ൰١ଁၟࡉኰܿએȂ቏ เႹ॥‫ܱܠ‬ፊ๠ܿࠞၟȃၻ໸ᇜࢋ౟એጧ ྪˈၻܿࢗᏮખ໸ᇋம੍ࢾ૴ܿଁၟˈ࿓ ྊ౦ᅤ‫ڵ‬೙‫ࠍڣ‬ჴ།ܿએȃ ೠঐ჏ჲ‫ج‬๾ˈะॄ኶ჲ૰‫܋‬ിܿએˈ२ ໸ࣰܴହ჏ᅤએ኶ᅤ‫ج‬ᬗ˛ ஠ጚ‫ޕ‬቏૰೙ȃၻ࢏ጝ୴ܿ‫ڷ‬໗ിठ ܾभऔˈঐᅤએହ‫܋‬ിྊ౦ܿ‫ج‬๾ ˗‫ࣰ؜‬ ᇓ቏໢ृˈၻ౦ঐᆾขྈ቏ܿ‫ڷ‬໗ࣰହᇜ ܻ൰١౟໤औએˈ኷ጝࣰ‫ڋ‬፩ˈ቏໢ঐ‫ݲ‬ ጶ໤႘ࠞၟˈऔ࢏એ‫܋‬ിȃ‫׋‬๜቏ই࿝‫ݞ‬ ໸फ෠૲உസᖊˈၻખჲቂᇜ፯भᏋะܿ ࿝ၟऽએହിˈ቏‫ݞ‬ჸ؉࿅એˈ໸ 2005 ೧ ߟ࣭୏ࢆ޹૲ ත ௭Ⴀሿ‫ݓ‬ฏ Mas Amiel એ Ꭶ‫ڵ‬ٛܿ੶‫ݟ‬ඈ྾એȃၻ౦‫ړ‬Ꮌസᖊ᛭ሜ ጝକඈ྾એˈ‫ܦ‬એၟ࡜ࣰம෠૲உܿၟܻȃ მะ࿝‫ݞ‬໗ࡊ‫כ‬ᅐն෠૲உਟ኶‫ݲ‬ ܾ ࢑ ଇ ഃ ᇜ ᄎ ‫ ئ‬ᄵˈ ྊ ই บ ፱ ᄧ ‫ˈࣰ ݲ‬ ო኷ၻ౦նጝᏠठ߼኷Ꮱ໠፵೧‫ܠج‬ຢȃ ‫ ܬ‬ะ ၻ Ꮛ ে ܿ ჲ ߟ ᇓ ‫ כ‬ᅐ ࢑ ቏ ‫ ܪ‬ᄹˈ ‫؜‬ ި ॗ ᄩ ཋ ‫ ܋‬ി એ ࢏ ໤ ႘ȃ მ ะˈ ၻ ‫ ؜‬૰ ೙ ‫ ܠ‬൷ ࢋ เ உ ஢ Ꮽ ܸ ጝ ᇜ ෧ȃ ၻ ౞ ࿙ ᇓ ঐ ࢏ ஠ ၤ ᎑ ಚ ܿ ໽ એ ໗ ຟ ࿃ ሃ ਈˈ ྊ ౦ ખ໸‫خ‬ሜ‫ؠ‬Ꮣ৭ዕ෼ኑ჏ໍञষ‫ݓ‬໰‫خ‬ ࿩੶୲஀ಙཋȃ

Hervé Laviale, winemaker ೭એ໗

hard on the wine pairings. And of course I could never do it all on my own. I am in a constant daily dialogue with our Director of Food and Beverage Kevin Tsang and Gaddi’s Manager Dominique Lemercier, both renowned sommeliers. What are you really enthusiastic about right now? Château du Cèdre 2007. This is a one hundred percent biodynamic Malbec from Cahors, France. It’s very different from the Argentine Malbecs. This strikes the right balance between fruit and complexity, with soft tannins and a silky finish. Is it all about the flavor? What other factors contribute to a wine’s character? Wine is a living thing. There is always a lot of history behind the liquid before it gets into the bottle. We have a beautiful Burgundy – 2008 Domaine Dublère Volnay – which has an incredibly romantic story. This crazy American, Blair Pethel, went to France and fell in love with Burgundy and never left. He stayed to make wine forever. It’s not just about the liquid in the bottle, but also the love, passion and emotion behind the making of the wine. What about dessert wines? Any tips? Marabino is a sweet Italian Moscato di Noto from Sicily. This is different because it has a beautiful balance of sweetness and acidity, a fresh tingling acidity, which makes it exciting to pair with pate de foie or desserts. It might also work with Sichuan or something which burns your mouth. This wine would really cool it. And what may we look forward to seeing on the Peninsula wine list in the future? I recently went to the Kelowna region in British Columbia to try some new wines. This was an eye opener for me – they do some

Miele Boutique

fantastic stuff. I would like to see more Canadian wine in the market. The wines I tasted have a uniquely Canadian style. You can’t compare them to wines from other countries. Very light reds, perfumed, light fruit flavors. Climate change is really going to benefit Canada as a new wine growing region. With what would you pair a Pinot Noir from British Columbia? No strong meats. I would pair it with lamb dishes. This wine would also be fantastic with seafood. Are people drinking more reds with seafood these days? It’s a common perception that we mustn’t have red with seafood, that white wine has to go with seafood and red wine with meat. What do you do when guests tell you: ‘Oh I don’t drink white wine’? You still need to find wine that complements the meal. You could pair a light Pinot Noir like this with sea bass or salmon. The cooking style makes the difference – how thick or strong the sauce is, not the core ingredients. Chicken is another meat people associate with white wine, but it doesn’t always have to be like that. Chicken stuffed with mushrooms in a fragrant black truffle sauce, for example, would be fantastic with Pinot. A Burgundy Pinot has earthy, vegetal notes, which would match well with this dish. Does very expensive wine taste much better? Oh no, not at all. A lot of blind tasting events have proven this. Some wines are big labels from big chateaux. Some haven’t made it big. At the end of the day every wine is a liquid. The only way to judge is to taste. To me the expense doesn’t matter until you’ve tasted. It’s important to train your palate to understand – I love to taste all good wines.

“ Wine is a living thing. એ቏ໍಛȃ

” ೠო኷ᏥՓܿ໸ುᇜ፯એ˛ 2007 ೧ ܿ Château du Cèdre ˈ ጝ ໸ ߟ࣭૏էߒ‫ݓ‬ฏۜᇵໍ঩॔‫ވ‬ഄߟໍٛܿ మߔַ૲ऽඈ྾એˈྋ࢏Շࢎ࿭‫ڵ‬ٛܿ࿷ ಚऽඈ྾એभ‫؜‬ᇜᆼˈ೙኷࣮ც࢏ࡉኰܿ એኬፇৱถܾ൶ळˈ‫ܠ‬೻཰ၟܻ๖ञˈ቟ ኬ๢ज़ȃ૰ᇵ჏ङጝକએˈ኶ङ੫ܻ਺ූ ܿએȃ ໸ሓၓએܿცනఱ˛એܿ൰ࢆ२࢏ඝྊሓ ཧ቏࣋ఱ˛ એ቏ໍಛȃ኷ࢗเնએܴ๠൸፩෇ˈ ቏Ꮌᇜާ٣٣ܿ୿໨ȃ‫׋‬๜ངၻ౦቏൸౟ ୻ܿ؋ࢎ‫ݕ‬એ - 2008 ೧ Domaine Dublère Volnay - ખ቏ᇜާ٫ৃ୐ిܿࢽ໳ȃ቏ࢋࠟ ଘܿ౟࣭เ Blair Pethel บமߟ࣭ˈՓຢம ‫ܿݓܬ‬؋ࢎ‫ݕ‬એˈ۰ۨખௗம჉ହȃྊն ॄ֐ާเໍࢤპࢍ೭એȃྈᇵ൸Ꮚ୴‫؜‬ፔ ໸એˈ२֡ଭமՓሃȂ฽฀Ȃ፯፯௑เ‫ވ‬ ๒ܿࡥ฀ȃ ೠޭ‫܋‬ി࿝‫ܿݞ‬એ቏໣౓औਓሊఱ ? ఫᆈ‫׎‬࿅໸ሃ‫஀ܐ‬ႠႠ୴ܿռඈ྾એˈ ଁၟ෼࿝ˈ࿷໢નֻ཰࿝ࠞၟˈ๠ଁ໢ࢍ เ။పܿ཰ࡥˈษቕসၓ෼ᄧˈᏥ໻ठ‫܋‬ ി߅ࡣਟড࿝‫ݞ‬ȃጝ፯એᇓ໻ठ‫جۅ܋‬ড ඝྊ਺ଶܿ‫ج‬ᬗˈ೙ࢮ३ञᏣ୴ܿ۩ଶࡥȃ ၝହ֐ܵએ‫ܿݥ‬એ‫ܠ‬२ঐ቏໣౓‫ۑ‬ᄧఱ˛ ၻ‫ࡪئ‬۰ৠೀ‫ܐ‬ሡ༥ࡼఘ‫׋‬ᆊܿ૏ద ೅ጭইହˈบೄ୴໸ၓம൰١ᇜᄎᄧએȃ ၻᇓฬ໦‫ܐ‬૑ᆞ੒ˈྊ౦ܿએጡ໸‫܊؜‬ȃ

Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong ცࡰ࿸డူ୶޲ܻ111ख‫ݓ‬჉ q +852 2890 1018 H www.miele.hk

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may 2013

ၻჲৠೀ‫ڵܐ‬ٛܿએၝହ኷༁٠ຢฬ໦‫ܐ‬ ቏૰ၓȃೄ୴ܿએ‫ޙ‬નࠞၟˈभ೎࢏ඝྊ ࣭য়ܿએყ‫਺׋‬ȃ໸भ෼‫ܿܨ‬ऽએˈცන ᳊ታˈ‫ܕ‬቏‫࣮ܨܨ‬ცȃනृ‫ק‬඿ุৠೀ‫ܐ‬ ‫ڈ‬ၓᄧܿ೭એٛ‫ˈݓ‬ጝ໸ሃိܿऔ‫ۃ‬ȃ

ೄ౓ೠঐೀৠೀ‫ܐ‬ሡ༥ࡼఘ‫׋‬ᆊໍٛܿफ ‫׋‬ഐએହ‫܋‬໣౓໤႘ ? ‫؜‬೙‫܋‬፱ଁၟܿ๗ˈၻჲ‫܋‬ᄆᆵഠ‫؜‬ ‫܊‬ȃጝએ‫ࣴ܋‬ბᇓ߾٢֙ȃ ໸‫؜‬໸ኚହኚ޹เ‫ࣴړ‬ბ໢૑໭ിऽએம ೕ˛ ‫ܐ‬য়‫ޕ‬ፃܻऽએ‫؜‬໻ठിࣴბˈऽએ ໸ി๗Ȃߑռએ‫ࣴ܋‬ბ਺৞ȃ‫ܦ‬቏໢ࢾ૴ ঐࡻ཮ೠྊ‫؜‬ङռએˈೠ२໸ܾ࿓ྊግ໻ ठܿએȃඝ໦ଁၟ෼‫ܿܨ‬फ‫׋‬ഐએ૰ᇵ‫܋‬ ിफἭডἲቢ໤ቂˈ፱‫ݞ‬኷቙๜टെ‫ˈݲ‬ ჸਟፆ໸ࠨࢮഃࢮූˈ໤‫؜ܴ߫إ‬໸፱‫ݞ‬ȃ ᇜֈเᇓᇵၓ঳๗ፔ೙‫܋‬ռએˈ‫ܦ‬ඝ໦‫؜‬ ਈܾȃ๜࣮঳‫ޠ‬Ꮚ୴๰੣ૃࢰ࢏མ௷ፆˈ ખभ໻ठ‫܋‬फ‫׋‬ഐȃ؋ࢎ‫ڵݕ‬ٛܿफ‫׋‬ഐ એ١ඩହ቏፯‫ܿݓܐ‬Ȃፋ႘ܿცනˈખ໻ ठ‫܋‬ጝ፯঳๗ȃ ২՟ܿએᇜ‫࢑ށ‬औङఱ˛ ‫؜ˈ؜‬໸ጝᆼȃᅒ޹ጕ᎘൰ഡุࢾ૴ ༅١ܿঝ‫ވ‬ዄᇲጽಖጝᇜ‫ݞ‬ȃᅒ޹ፃಚ൰ ഡܿએହᏋߟ࣭‫ܐ‬એᎦˈ‫ܦ‬቏ᄎએᎦࣙಠ ౚೄ౓‫ܐ‬ȃངܸ‫ݒ‬౞፯એ‫ޕ‬໸ᇜ፯ᇛ࿒ˈ ၑᇜ൹ިܿߴ໮ખ໸෮Ꮛ൰١ȃޭၻହངˈ ෮Ꮛङᇜଁ‫ئ‬ፃܻጡ০ȃೠܾᅸசᏋেܿ ຳ৯ˈᏋে༅Ꮌம੍ȃၻખႹ॥൰١ྈ቏ ܿऔએȃ

Miele is proud to share another chapter in its dedication to the world of ﬁne wine. A constant commitment to excellence & an enduring desire to be forever better.

SINCE 1899

This Château du Cèdre 2007 strikes just the right balance between fruit and complexity with soft tannins and a silky ﬁnish, says The Peninsula’s Chief Sommelier Dheeraj Bhatia. ცࡰ֐ܵએ‫ݥ‬༈Ⴖ໽એ໗ Bhatia Dheerajང˖Ș2007೧ܿChâteau du Cèdre ೙኷࣮ც࢏ࡉኰܿએኬፇৱถܾ൶ळˈ‫ܠ‬೻཰ၟܻ๖ञˈ቟ኬ๢ज़ȃș may 2013

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS 1/5 nuevo 208 Duecento Otto 22 Ships 798 Unit & Co - JAR 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana A Touch of Spice Adagio Agehan agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung San House, Cityplaza, Devon House, Fashion Walk) agnès b. le pain grillé Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Akita Al Bistro Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar - TST Al Dente (Great Eagle Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, SoHo) Al Molo Ristorante Italiano All Night Long Al's Diner Amante Amber Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill Amina Italian and Oyster Restaurant AMMO Amore Italian Restaurant ANA Oyster & Grill Angel's Share Another Fine Day An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria Antipasto Antique Patisserie Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Applegreen CWB Applegreen TST Ayuthaiya Caffe Greco La Marmite Arima Teppanyaki Aropa Azure Baby Blue Cafe & Bar Bacar Bahama Mama's Caribbean Bar Banker Whisky and Wine Bar Barg Barista Jam Bella Vita Bellaria Berliner German Bar and Restaurant Bicho Biergarten Big Tree Pub Bistecca Italian Steak House Bistro Bamboo Bistrot Le Fauchon Bit Point Black stump Australian Grill & bar Bloom BLT Burger BLT Steak Blue Lemon café & wine bar Bo Innovation Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar Bo-Lo'gne Bombay Dreams Bonheur

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Bouchon Bistro Francais Bourbon Brasserie Le Fauchon Brat Bricklane Brivo Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant Brunch Club Bulldog's Bar & Grill Cafe by the Park Cafe Deco Cafe Elite Cafe Eos Club Cafe Gray Deluxe Café Iguana Café Locomotive Café Loisl Café Muse Cafe O Café on the 1st Cafe Rivoli Cafe TOO Cafe Zambra Cammino Caprice Carousel Fine Cake & Pastries Carpaccio Casa Fina Casa Lisboa Portuguese Restaurant & Bar Casablanca Oyster Steak Restaurant Cecconi's Italian Census Lounge Cepage C'est la B Chesa Chez Moi Chez Patrick Deli Chez Shibata Chikayaki Chilli Fagara Chocolate Chum Chum Mi CIN CIN Ristorante Circle Oyster Classiﬁed Mozzarella Bar Classiﬁed The Cheese Room Club Chow Club de Flavor Club Havana coast Cocky Bar Cova Café - Admiralty Cova Café - Lee Gardens Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria Cova Ristorante & Caffe Coyote Bar & Grill Craftsteak Cuisine Cuisine - IFC Cutty Sark Da Ping Huo Daddyos Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill Dap Modern European Restaurant Delaney's Wanchai Délifrance Devil's Advocate Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Domani Ristorante Double Happiness Café Duetto Dynasty - Wanchai Eat Right edo & bibo Oyster & Steak House EL CID Spanish Restaurant

may 2013

El Pomposo Estudio F.A.B French - American Bistro Fandango Spanish Restaurant Fat Angelo's Felix FINDS Fish Bar & Grill Flame at Towngas Avenue Fleur de Sel Flute Bar Flutes Champagne and Cocktail Bar Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai Forum Restaurant Fresh Café & Bar Frites Belgium on Tap Fu Ho Restaurant - TST Fuel Espresso Full/half Gaddi's Gaia Ristorante Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gemini glo restaurant + lounge Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Gokayama Gold By Harlan Goldstein Grand Central Bar & Grill Grappa's Ristorante Grecoπ Green Grill Cafe Handle Bar Harbour Restaurant Hard Rock Café Harlan's Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar Hoi King Heen Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk Restaurant Holly Brown Hong Kong University Alumni Association Hooray Bar & Restaurant HOUSE il meglio Ristorante di Venezla Il Moro iL Posto 97 Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - Causeway Bay Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - TST Island Tang Isola Italian No.5 Iwanami Jaa Kitchen Japas Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Jimmy's Kitchen Joe Bananas Joe's Billiards & Bar Joia Kaiko Teppanyaki Katte Shabushabu King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, Wanchai) Kitchen 65 Kitchen M Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar Kosyu Kowloon Tang KYOTO JOE L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

La Bodega La Bon Restaurant & Lounge La Bon’s Café la brezza café La Cantoche La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar LA Creperie La Cucina Italiana La Maison La Pampa La Parole La Serene Caffè La TASCA La Terrasse l'altro Lattitude 22⁰ LaVilla TST Lawry's the Prime Rib Le Gouter Bernardaud (ICC, IFC) Le Marron Le Mieux Bistro Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant Galerie) Le Salon Restaurant et Croissanterie Le Souk Lei Garden - IFC Life Lil' Siam Limehouse Linguini Fini Lobby Lounge Louis' Steak House Lung King Heen LUPA LUX Bistro & Bar Magnolia Mangrove Bar & Restaurant Marlin Mask of Si Chuen McSorley's Ale House Merhaba Mes Amis Metropolitan Café Ming Court Mini Dans la Ville Mirror MiSet Restaurant Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining Moon Thai Mr. Steak Grill Ms B's Cakery Munch Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Nahm Vietnamese & Thai Nan Tei Nepal Nicholini's Nico's Oceanna Okaki Ole Spanish Restaurant Oliver's Super Sandwiches (Cheong Kong Centre, Hong Kong Station) Oliver's Super Sandwiches Melbourne Plaza One-Thirtyone Only Buonasera Oolaa Oolaa petite Orange Tree Restaurant Otto Restaurant & Bar OWL Our Wonderland Oysters Bar & Restaurant Papa Razzi Papi Pastis Bistro Francais Peace Square Peak Café Bar

Pearl on the Peak Peking Garden Restaurant Petrus Pier 7 Cafe & Bar Pierre PizzaExpress, Central PizzaExpress, Wanchai Pizzazaza Podium Cafe Portobello Posto Pubblico PRIME steakhouse Red Bar & Restaurant Red Rock Bar & Grill Rei Restoration Rex Caffe Roka Rouge Royal Feast Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen Ruth's Chris Steak House Sabatini Ristorante Italiano Sabor Spanish Touch Private Kitchen Sahara Mezz Bar Sakaegawa Japanese Resaturant Sake Bar GINN Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar Scirocco Serenade Sevva Shanghai Fraternity Association Shanghai Jade Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo Shore Steak Shui Hu Ju Simplylife Bakery Cafe Simplylife Bread & Wine SML Social House Socialito SoHo Spice Vietnamese & Thai Solas Sole mlo Sorriso Italian Cuisine Spasso Italian bar SPICE Spicy Fingers Spoil Cafe Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon St.George Star Restaurant Starz Wine Bar Staunton's Wine Bar & Café Steik World Meats Stone's Stormies Studio City Studio Nineteen Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar Summer Palace Sunning Restaurant Sushi Hiro Sushi Imamura Sushi Kuu Sushi Shin T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar Tai Ping Koon Restaurant Tandoor T'ang Court Taste Tate Dining Room & Bar Teppanyaki Kaika Tequila Jack's Thai Orchids Café & Bar KLN Bay Thai Orchids Café & Bar Mongkok

The Box The Dutch Cheese and More The Fifties The Flying Pan The French Window The Great Indian Kebab Factory The Junk Pub The Lobby The Lotus The Parlour The Pawn The Peak Lookout The Press Room The Principal The Quarterdeck Club The Quarterdeck Hong Kong The Queen Victoria The Salted Pig The Square The Steak Kitchen Bar & Restaurant The Swiss Chalet The Wheel Tiffin Tim's Kitchen Tivo Tivoli Italian Restaurant Tonno Bar / Tonno Kitchen Trattoria Doppio Zero Tutto Bene Twyst Uno Duo Trio - Lana's Italian Home Cooking Up Va Bene Van Gogh Kitchen Via 28 Ristorante View 62 by Paco Roncero Vivo W28 Steak House Wabi Sabi Japanese Restaurant Wagyu Kaiseki Den Wagyu Lounge Wanya Japanese Restaurant Watson's Wine SoHo Weinstube Westwood Carvery Wildfire Wildfire pizzabar & Grill Wing's Kitchen Wooloomooloo Prime Wooloomooloo Steakhouse Wyndham the 4th Xi Yan Sweets Yan Toh Heen Yat Tung Heen - Wanchai Yi Pai Ya Yorkshire Pudding Yu Joy Chinese Restaurant Zelo Spanish Restaurant & Tapas Bar Zen Zentro Bar & Eatery ZOO Zummer ནठĂ

CLUBHOUSES United Services Recreation Club Paciﬁc club HK Bartender's & Sommelier's Association Aberdeen Marina Club American Club - Hong Kong Country Club American Club - Town Club Asia Golf Club Caldecott Hill Chinese Recreation Club

may 2013

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK ȖTasting Kitchenූ౟໤ፑೌ቙ࢌ‫ݓ‬ຢվࢋ༚֫ྜȂ༚‫ݥ‬ঽ჉ளࢌ‫ޡৃݾܐ‬০‫܂‬Ȃએ‫ݥ‬ቪ‫خ‬࿩ਿ೙ถܾȃ

Continental Club Craigengower Cricket Club Discovery Bay Recreation Club Fairview Park Country Club Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Gold Coast Resident's Club House Gold Coast Yacht and Country Club Harbour Front Club House Hebe Haven Yacht Club Hong Kong Country Club Hong Kong Cricket Club Hong Lok Yuen Country Club Kerry Property Management services Ltd (15 Homantin Hill, Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, May Tower I & II, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, Valverde) Kowloon Tong Club Macau Jockey Club Marina Club Discovery Bay Marina Cove Club Mariners' Club (The Narubers Club) Mission Hills Golf Club Orient Express No. 8 Club Bel Air Paciﬁc Club Palais Monaco Premier Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Shek O Golf Country Club The Beverly Hills (Resident's Clubhouse) The China Club The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, HK The Cullinan The Ellipsis The Foreign Correspondents' Club Hong Kong The Hong Kong Golf Club Deep Water Bay The Kowloon Club The Kowloon Cricket Club The Mayfair The Palazzo Derby Three Bays Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse

WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. Concord Fine Wines Limited Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited Delish Hong Kong Wine Vault Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited - Admiralty, Wanchai, TST, Kwai Chung Limitless Holdings Limited Monsieur Chatté - Sheung Wan Monsieur Chatté - Elements Pan-Handler Portrait Winemakers & distillers Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Queensway Wine Sino Vantage Asia Limited

| TASTING KITCHEN |

Valentino Chocolatier - Sai Kung Valentino Chocolatier Wanchai

HOTEL City Garden Hotel Conrad International Hong Kong Cosmopolitan Hotel Courtyard By Marriott Hong Kong Crowne Plaza HK CWB Hotel Eaton Hotel Hong Kong Eaton House Excelsior Hotel Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Harbour Grand Hong Kong Harbour Grand Kowloon Harbour Plaza North Point Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel Hong Kong Marriott Hotel Hotel Icon Hotel Jen Hotel LKF by Rhombus Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui InterContinental Grand Standford InterContinental Hong Kong Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong Kowloon Shangri-La Lan Kwai Fong Hotel Langham Place, Mongkok, HK Lanson Place Hotel Le Meridien Cyberport L'hotel Island South Luk Kwok Hotel Mandarin Oriental Peninsula Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Regal Hong Kong Hotel Regal Hotels International Regal Kowloon Hotel Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Hong Kong Rosedale on the Park HK Royal Garden Hotel Royal Paciﬁc Hotel & Towers Royal Plaza Hotel Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers SkyCity Marriott Hotel The Kowloon Hotel The Landmark Mandarin Oriental The Luxe Manor The Park Lane Hong Kong The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong

AIRLINE LOUNGES CNAC Lounge Dynasty Lounge Emirate Lounge Emirates Airlines-BKK Lounge Hong Kong Lounge Morning Calm ( Korean Air) Red Carpet Lounge (UA) Royal Orchid Lounge SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) The Traveller's Lounge EAST The Traveller's Lounge WEST Virgin Clubhouse

may 2013

Hong Kong Jet Jet Aviation Buisness Jets (HK) Ltd Metrojet Limited BAA - Business Aviation Asia Ltd

VANGO Wanchai North Point Ho Man Tin Kwun Tong Lok Fu Shatin Tin Shui Wai Kwai Chung Chai Wan Kwun Tong TST Saigon Tuen Mun Happy Vally Lok Fu Tai Kok Tsui Tin Shui Wai Yuen Long Tai Po

BOOKSHOPS Mandarin Oriental Kioskġ Bookazine (Discover Bay, Canton House, Ifc Mall, Harbor City, Kowloon, Prince Building, Central, Shui On) Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, Lyndhurst Terrace, Harbor City, Kowloon, Bonham Road, Repulse Bay, Hopewell Centre, Citygate) Beachside Booksġ Hits Media Centerġ Metrobook (Elements, Kowloon, Mikki, Langham Place) Nobletimesġ Jumbo Gradeġ(City Plaza, Paciﬁc Place, Admiralty, Wong Tai Sin) Swindon Book Co. Ltd.ġ Cham Keeġ Tung Sonġ Yung Keeġ Great Foodġ Park N' Shopġ(Baguia Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean Coast, Citygate, Clearwater, Cyberport, East Point City, Forview Heights, Festival Walk, Happy Valley, Hong Lok Yuen, Horizon Suite Hotel, Jardine Lookout, Kennedy Town, Metroplaza, Metropolis, New Hopewell Centre, Peak Road, Shouson Hill, South Horizons, Stanley Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau Temple)

MACAU HOTELS Altira Macau Crown Tower Galaxy Macau Galaxy Macau - Banyan Tree Macau Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura

Grand Hyatt Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Hard Rock Hotel Hotel Lisboa Hotel San Tiago Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Sands Cotai Central Soﬁtel Macau StarWorld Hotel Wynn Macau

RESTAURANTS 11 Cafe 360° Café A Lorcha A Petisqueira ABA Bar Albergue 1601 Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Bar Azul Bar Florian Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Cabana Café Bela Vista Café Deco Café Lan Café Litoral Café of 4 Cafe Ou Mun Café Panorama Café Siam Camoes Restaurant Cascades China Rouge City Café Clube Militar de Macau Conrad the Lounge Copa Steakhouse Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Cuppacoffee Bakery and Coffeeshop Don Quijote Dynasty 8 EDO Japanese @ One Central Edo Japanese Restaurant Edo Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant COD Edo Restautant Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Ginza Kaiten Sushi Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Grand Imperial Court Henri's Gallery Hero Chinese Restaurant Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge Illy Coffee Imperial Court Inagiku Indian Garden Restaurant Irish Bar Jade Dragon Jade Garden Jin Yue Xuan Kam Lai Heen King of Kings Kira

Kwun Hoi Heen L'Arc Coffee Shop L'Arc Lounge L'Arc The Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Keure French Cuisine La Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa Café La Paloma Lan Laurel Laurel Lax Café Le Cesar Lei Garden Lemongrass Macau Thai Café Litoral Restaurant Lord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macallan Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ Café MO Lobby Lounge + Cake Shop Modern Thai Morton's Steakhouse Mugs Talk Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Nagomi O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Shanghai Old Taipa Tavern Osgatos Pacific Coffee Pacific Coffee COD Pacific Coffee Galaxy Pacific Coffee SCC Pak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge Pearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria Toscana Prive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurante Fernando Rossio Royal Orchid Saffron Sakazuki Savory Crab Shanghainese 456 Singing Bean Sky 21 Spice Garden Square 8 Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP lounge Talay Thai Restaurant Tang's Cuisine Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room by Galliot Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda

Vasco Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Bar Vida Rica Restaurant Wave Westin The Lounge Windows Restaurant Windsor Lounge Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

CLUBHOUSES Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Paciﬁc Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Paciﬁca Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKING Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

GOURMET SHOP & WINE SHOP Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd. Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Paciﬁc Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

SPAS Grand Lapa Spa Six Senses Spa MO The Spa Royal Thai Spa Malo Clinic Spa Four Seasons Spa Bodhi Spa Altira Spa Banyan Tree Spa Rock Spa Isala Spa Crown the Spa

TRANSIT Air Macau Jet Asia Macau Jet Burgeon Rent a car Avis Turbojet Xunlong

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Շᇜࣴ੹߰‫ݥ‬ Cantonese

ġ 29/F

iSquare , 63 Nathan Road,

Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong ġ ৯ຆઠ౵‫ܻޱ‬63ख iSQUARE ࣭ৗࣖ٠29௦

300–500

A ġCasual

Aqua Spirit Bar

ġ One

Peking Road,

Tsim Sha Tsui,Hong Kong ৯ຆઠִੲܻ1ख30௦

17:00–03:00 Fri-Sat 41-100

A ġCasual Chic

www.aqua.com.hk

Blue Butcher Bar & Restaurant

ġ 108

St. George

Ming Court ዪ᷏

Steik World Meats

Langham Place, 555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Hong Kong ġ ၅ਲຢࣴੁ555ख୏ऑએ‫ݥ‬6௦ 5 Cantonese q +852 3552 3300 Lunch: ġ 11:00–14:30 Mon-Fri ġ ġ 11:00–15:00 Sat-Sun ġ Dinner: ġ 18:00–22:30 ġ HKD 500+ A ġSmart Casual

17:00–02:00 Sun-Thur

Hollywood Road, Central

Peninsula ცࡰ֐ܵએ‫ݥ‬

ġ ፩०च୳ঝܻ108ख

ġ Salisbury

q +852 2613 9286 ġ

Above $500

A ġCasual Chic

Restaurant Petrus ᒋᵝ₉␰Ă

Don Alfonso 1890 ‫ܬ‬է࠘ཧ1890ሃ໮ல୲ 5

French Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Paciﬁc Place, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty ġ ਜ਼፬ߟኗܻ྘ࢸࣖ٠ࡰܵცࢆ୴ ଲ‫ܐ‬એ‫ݥ‬56௦ q +852 2820 8590 ġLunch: 12:00–15:00 Dinner: 18:30–23:00 ġ HKD 500+ A ġSmart Casual 5

ġ 56/F

Southern Italian ġ 3/F

Grand Lisboa,

Avenida de Lisboa, Macau թ౤ඈੲ௸ᄧඈੲએ‫ݥ‬3௦ q ġ+853 8803 7722 ġLunch:

12:00–14:30

Dinner: 18:30–22:30 ġ MOP

1,200

A ġSmart Casual

Sevva

Japanese ġ 5/F, StarWorld Hotel Macau

ġ Avenida da Amizade թ౤ቐላ‫ܐ‬మ௸ᄬৗએ‫ݥ‬ႎ௦ q ġ+853 8290 8668

ġ12:00–14:30, 18:00–23:00 A ġCasual Chic

100

| TASTING KITCHEN |

Asian & Western ġ 25/F, Prince‘s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central District, Hong Kong ġ ፩०ጕ܏ܻ10ख྘Ꮚ‫ܐ‬჊25௦ q +852 2537 1388 ġLunch: 12:00–14:30 Mon to Fri ġ ġ 11:00–15:00 Sat ġ Dinner:ġ 18:00–22:30 Mon to Wed ġ ġ 18:00–23:00 Thu to Sat ġ HKD 500 A ġSmart Casual 5

Inagiku ܹઞׁ๊ல୲ 5

Road, Tsim Sha Tsui,

Kowloon ცࡰ઎௝৯ຆઠ༒໰ղ஀ܻ q +852 3071 3372 H www.peninsula.com

12:00-0:00 daily

may 2013

Steak House ġ 3rd and 4th ﬂoor, L Place. 139 Queen‘s Road, Central, Hong Kong ፩०ॹॄ‫ܻܐ‬፩139ख L Place 3ঽ4௦ q +852 2915 1638 ġLunch: ġ 12:00–15:00 Mon to Fri ġ Dinner:ġ 18:00–22:30 Mon to Sun ġ HKD151-300 A ġSmart Casual

401, 4/F The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong ġ ፩०ܽ࠽ܻ፩12–16ख ፜‫ࣖݓ‬٠4௦401खĂ 5 French Contemporary q +852 2166 9000 ġ07:30–10:00, 12:00–14:30, 18:30–22:30 ġ HKD 500+ A ġSmart Casual

ġ 6/F

q +852 3427 2288

ġ HKD

ġ Shop

12:00–15:00

Dinner: 18:00–22:30 ġ HKD

Shore

Cantonese ġ 2/F The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai ௸ૣ‫چ‬ஏࣔ࢞௸ᄧᣄ࿙‫ݓ‬ᄧ ᣄ‫ܻܐ‬2௦ q +853 8868 2822 ġ 11:00– 15:00, 18:00–23:00 ġ MOP 301-500 A ġSmart Casual 5

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

q +852 2328 0983 ġLunch:

Jade Dragon ችᦾᅞ

HOTEL OKURA MACAU թ౤‫طܐ‬એ‫ݥ‬ Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau ™ș ῔ᎆཫᕀએ‫ ݥ‬Ș ᵋ႓ᦖ᛭Ꮪ ῔ᎆᰗૣᏚ www.hotelokuramacau.com

French ġ Hullett

House, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui ৯ຆઠࣖ‫ܻބ‬2A෇ ༽੸Ꮣ‫ؠ‬એ‫ݥ‬ q +852 3988 0220 ġ12:00 - 14:30, 18:30 - 22:00 Mon - Sat ġ HKD 301-500 A ġSmart casual

Steak House 14, Level 3, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon ġ ৯ຆઠत೗ܻ18खK11ࢭ႘ᇶ༦࣐ 314खඅ q +852 2530 0011 12:00–15:00 and 18:00-23.30 ġ HKD 500 A ġSmart Casual

The Crystal Piano ༽ੰ࡫෰ 5 Bar & Lounge

ġ 28/F qġ+853 8883 5109 ġ18:00–02:00 Closed Wed ġ MOP 60 and up A ġSmart Casual H ġwww.hotelokuramacau.com

ġ Shop

Vida Rica ቸኔ Chinese & Western Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau թ౤ိࡰᄧ࿛ࣴฏཾᇾა ‫ܐ‬మ௸թ౤ၭख़‫ߴބ‬એ‫ݥ‬2௦ q +853 8805 8918 18:00-23:00 ġ MOP 151-300 A ġSmart casual 5

ġ 2/F

Sakazuki Sake Bar ෼એ 5 Sake Bar

ġ 2/F q +853 8883 5125 ġ16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun ġ MOP 60 and up A ġSmart Casual H ġwww.hotelokuramacau.com

Yamazato ຐ୴Ă