tsuper vol 1: the passion of manila

culture-branded lifestyle

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VOL.1

STAFF BOX 13

tsuper Capili, Anton Diaz, Jocelle Evangelista, Red Fuertes, Ingrid Chua-Go, Ivan Henares, Guji Lorenzana, Voltaire Manalo, Grace Pastorfide, Nino Puyat, Ige Ramos, Vic Torres / Photographers: Bless Afable, Sara Black, Jo Chua, Edwin David, Raymond Dy, Tristan Granados, Frank Hoefsmit, Jovel Lorenzo, Pat Mateo, Stanley Ong, Alanah Torralba, Jake Verzosa / Illustrators: Paul Joseph Blasco, Rommel Estanislao

tsuper® Headquarters October Eighty Publications,Inc. 4F, 116 Herrera Building, 116 V.A. Rufino Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City Telephone: (632) 893 9305 / 893 5787 / 892 9482/ 893 6314 Fax: (632) 892 1614 http://www.octobereighty.com

CHERYL FELICIANO Chief Executive Officer / PATRICK APACIBLE Chief Creative Director / HEINZ NGO Sales and Marketing Director LOIDA YU Finance Director / TONITO CARRATEGUI Intl. Business Devt. Director / JOSINE ARAGON, NATHAN BODLEY, RAN CHOO, ARIANNA GIMENEZ, CRISTINA GONZALES, HARVIE UY-DE BARON Directors / IAN BELLEZA Assistant Media Director / RICHARD TORRES, EMMA MANGALINDAN Media Managers / SARITA LANGFORD-LIMJAP Marketing Manager / JD DE LARRAZABAL Circulations Consultant / MYLENE MACUHA Administrative Head tsuper® is published quarterly by October Eighty Publications, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Copyright © 2008 October Eighty Publications, Inc. Printed in the Republic of the Philippines. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced in any manner without permission from the publisher. The views and opinions expressed by the authors in this magazine are not necessarily those of October Eighty Publications, Inc. Unsolicited manuscripts and images, which the publisher assumes no responsibility, will not be returned unless accompanied by self-addressed, stamped envelopes.

Art Art by: RPaul Joseph Blasco

JIMMY CAUMERON Executive Editor and Creative Director / JOAN SORO Managing Editor / TEKS PABUAYON Art Director / JENNIFER A. VALENCIA Copy Editor / KRISTINA RITA Editorial Assistant / TRISTAN GRANADOS Creative Consultant Contributing Writers: Edson Cabalfin, Ronna

MESSAGE

On behalf of the Department of Tourism, I convey my congratulations to the officers and staff of October Eighty Publications, Inc. on the maiden issue of Travel Super (TSUPER) Magazine.

We commend your noteworthy goals of service to the people by featuring Filipino culture, design, architecture, fashion and lifestyle. We know that you will maintain the same level of competence and corporate responsibility in showcasing our diverse destinations and the hospitality of our people.

As we express our best wishes to the publication for the success of this undertaking, we take this opportunity to invite everyone to explore a treasure trove of 7,107 islands filled with wonderful discoveries that include our rich history and culture, lush tropical landscapes, luxurious hotels and resorts, up-market and bargain shopping centers, exciting outdoor and nightfall activities, a variety of dining places that serve exotic concoctions of culinary delight‌ and above all, experience the warmest and friendliest welcome that is absolutely beyond the usual.

MABUHAY!

Ace Durano DOT Secretary

Art Photo by: RTeks Pabuayon

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PLATAFORMA

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Plataforma

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T-Chronicle

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T-CHAUFFEUR: The Nazareno, Quiapo and a Life of Heritage

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PROD: The Dirty Harry of Manila

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Prod: XSE (Xtra Small Enterprise)

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Prod: The Feast of the Black Nazarene

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Barrioscape

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T-CHAUFFEUR: A House of History

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T_CHAUFFEUR: Qiuapo: Thank God It’s Friday

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Trespass: Royal Plush

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Urban Flair: Muchas Grasas

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Flair Chronicle: Moving In

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Tour Turo: QShop

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Panorama

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Zoom Micro

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Sentimentality

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Zoom Macro

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Super World

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Edifice: Unfolding Drama

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Gallery: The Art of War

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Runway: Haute Culture

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Hypershop: Hotspots 104 Palate: Salavate

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THE COVER: “While each object represents something, collectively they can only represent Quiapo. “ CONCEPT: Tsuper editorial team PHOTO BY: Sara Black STYLED BY: Rex Atienza NECKPIECE: Rencie Santos MAKE-UP BY: Bobby Carlos HAIR BY: John Valle Model: Xynith Martillo

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Hypershop: Stop and Shop

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Hypershop: Fresh Picks

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Dossier: Lagalag’s Voyage Home

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Superscape: All Boxed Up

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Wanderlust: Side Trip

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Wanderlust: A Flare for Everything Catalan

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Away: Into the Verde

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Allure

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Tsubibo: Giant Lantern Festival

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WWW. Manila Filipinas

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Tsuper Flash

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ITINERARY

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The Bandwagon: Meet the Contributors

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CONTRIBUTORS IVAN HENARES IVAN ANTHONY HENARES is a young man who is well on his way to exploring the country’s 7,107 islands and more. His candid and well-written travel journals in “Ivan About Town”, named Best Travel Blog during the 2007 Philippine Blog Awards, give his readers a glimpse of Philippine culture.

A staunch heritage advocate, he is a trustee of the Heritage Conservation Society and represents the Philippines in the ICOMOS International Cultural Tourism Committee (ICTC). Henares is currently the marketing operations manager of the North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB).

JAKE VERZOSA JAKE VERSOZA is a freelance photographer based in Manila. His work as a successful editorial and commercial photographer has given him the chance to expand his craft and has taken him to destinations around the Asian region. He has traveled extensively around Southeast Asia and considers his documentaries and portraits as his personal work. He is currently working on a book documenting the lives of Filipino children and being the executive editor for travel magazine “Roam”.

FRANK HOEFSMIT His clean and refined approach to glam has made FRANK HOEFSMIT one of Manila’s top fashion and beauty visualists. A Belgian expat based in the Philippines for over a decade, Hoefsmit applies his love for the human form by creating stunning art, fashion and commercial photographs. His works have been featured in the country’s leading magazines and broadsheets.

EDSON CABALFIN EDSON CABALFIN currently juggles his time between being senior design architect for Cadiz International, a part-time lecturer at the University of the Philippines, and as a Ph.D. Candidate in the History of Architecture and Urbanism Program at Cornell University. Edson finished his B.S. Architecture and Master of Architecture from U.P. and his Master of Science in Architecture from the University of Cincinnati under a Fulbright Fellowship. Visit his website at www.brownworkshop.net.

RICHARD LAZARO RICHARD LAZARO is a 2007 graduate of the prestigious photography school The Hallmark Institute of Photography in Massachusetts. His work mostly involves fashion/editorial portraiture and commercial still life.

Some of his work have been published in the international magazines “JPG” (Fashion Issue 12). Most notably, one of his portraits was chosen to be in the permanent collection of the Hallmark Museum. He is currently doing work for local magazines and also continues to work on commercial still life projects.

ANTON DIAZ ANTON DIAZ is one of the top internet marketing professionals and destination consultants in the Philippines.

One of his passions is to promote the Philippines as a major tourist destination. As a self-proclaimed foodie, he loves to discover cool and creative restaurants and reveal secret travel destinations in and out of Manila.

He blogs his discoveries at www.OurAwesomePlanet.com.

BANDWAGON

GUJI LORENZANA After auditioning for “American Idol” Season 3, GUJI “GOO-G” LORENZANA decided to venture into the Philippine entertainment scene. He released a self-titled EP in January 2006, which included a single entitled “I’ll Be Yours Forever”, written by multi-awarded singer and composer Ogie Alcasid. More recently, he came out with an indie album entitled “Without Your Love” that include the singles “Kasalanan Ba?” and “Tagumpay”, the latter nabbing him a nomination in the 21st Awit Awards (2008) for Best Performance by a Male Recording Artist.

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PAUL BLASCO Paul is a recent graduate of Architecture from the University of the Philippines, Diliman. His having been awarded the best thesis in his batch speaks of his drive to excel in the field of design. He currently works for a distinguished architecture firm known for designing high-end residential and institutional structures. Out of the office, he occupies his time drawing and occasionally engaging in freelance graphic design work. He believes that excellent examples of the different art forms, be they architecture, painting, or graphic design, share the same core element: innovation and the ability to bring significant contributions to the fore.

GRACE PASTORFIDE If her house was burning, Grace would grab her laptop (home of her downloaded Gossip Girl episodes), her restaurant folder, her cat-in-a-dog’s-body Sweet Pea, her kikay kit (complete with hair dryer qnd curly hair drying attachment) and one of her mom’s expensive hand-me-down bags on the way out. If she has time, she will go back for her gym items and scuba gear. And if she’s allowed to go back one last time, she will grudgingly get her bar-subject law books, then leave the rest behind.

GUILLERMO RAMOS Guillermo “Ige” Ramos is torn between graphic design, cooking and writing. After winning 2nd place in an essaywriting contest when he was in Grade 3 at the Ladislao Diwa Elementary School in Cavite City, he vowed never to write again. His favourite subject in grade school was Home Economics and his champorado with carabao’s milk was voted as the best in breakfast category in the school-wide competition; he never stopped cooking since.

He took up Fine Arts in UST but dropped out eventually to become Rolando Tinio’s dresser and Ray Albano’s graphic design assistant at the Cultural Center of the Philippines. And that was just the beginning.

JAY TABLANTE Jay is a geek, and it shows from gaudy taste in clothing to the kinds of TV shows he watches. He teaches photography in Ateneo de Manila.

STANLEY ONG Stanley has been dabbling in photography since 2000, first using film camera and eventually shifting to digital photography. Initially focused on travel photography, he has diversified and his portfolio (www.flickr.com/ photos/stanong), which now includes food, glamour, events and children’s photography. Stan also enjoys traveling, meetivng new friends and working with individuals who share the same passion for nature, beauty and photography as he does.

Art Art by: RPaul Joseph Blasco

VOLTAIRE MANALO Prior to co-founding Arkisens, an innovative architecture and design practice based in Taguig City, Chok Manalo trained at the studio of renowned modernist Joey Yupangco where he was involved with some of the office’s residential and commercial projects. He applied this training to his own firm by aggressively pursuing work of all scales, maintaining a creative dialogue between realized projects and speculative studies and proposals. Together with partners Eds Rivera and Jay Pacia, Chok combines modern design strategies with the uncompromising execution of diverse and wide-ranging projects.

T-CHRONICLE

CHICHAY CONCEPT FACESHOT

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Photos by: Jake Verzosa

The story we are about to tell ...

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Maria...

T-CHRONICLE PRELUDE

at SM Mall of Asia, Pasay City... tsuper

T-CHRONICLE PRELUDE Photos by: Jake Verzosa

The story we are about to tell ...

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at De La Salle-College of St. Benilde School of Design and Arts Building...

at Bonifacio High Street, Taguig City... tsuper

Photos by: Jake Verzosa

The story we are about to tell ...

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at the Cultural Center of the Philippines...

T-CHRONICLE PRELUDE

...finally home. tsuper

T-CHRONICLE T-CHAUFFEUR The story of the place

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The Nazareno, Quiapo, and a Life of Heritage

Named after a plant

Quiapo was named after kiyapo, a waterborne plant resembling a cabbage that used to teem along the shallow waters of Pasig River. The district was under the spiritual direction of the Franciscans who managed it through their parish in Santa Ana de Sapa (present-day Sta. Ana) in 1578.

It was later declared a separate pueblo in 1586 and a parish in 1588. The first church was made of bamboo and nipa. Its titular saint was St. John the Baptist (this is the reason why Quiapo also celebrates its feast day on June 24). In 1598, the administration of the parish was transferred to the secular clergy who still manages it to this day.

The church was rebuilt and reconstructed after decades of man-made and natural disasters.

In 1889, a newly-built church made of stone and wood was blessed and opened to worshippers.

It was a magnificent structure with thick artistically-designed columns, a choir loft, and minor altars at the side. A single belfry stood on one side of the church. The main altar at one end housed the image of the Black Nazarene. Crystal chandeliers brightly light the interior during feast days and other important religious services.

By: Jose Victor Z. Torres Photo by: Stanley Ong

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t the center of the everyday tumult of Quiapo is a church that, for 300 years, has been the focus of popular worship by many Filipinos. The church stands at the foot of Quezon Bridge, one of the links to southern Manila. Close this area during the Feast of the Black Nazarene in January and you have a traffic nightmare extending from Manila to Quezon City.

But amidst the throngs of worshippers and the noise of traffic is a heritage that has lasted through the centuries.

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1. The obelisk in front of Plaza Miranda 2. One of the life-sized statues of saints displayed on the walls of Quiapo church.

3. St. John the Baptist Church more popularly known as the Quiapo Church

“Can we defend this at Plaza Miranda?”

The Quiapo Church (officially, the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene) is one of the places in Manila where religion and politics literally stand side by side – literally. The church is a center of worship every Friday and the Feastday of the Nazareno during the first week of January. Plaza Miranda, fronting the church entrance, became the venue for political activities beginning in the late ‘40s until today.

Spanish colonial urban planning dictates that buildings have open spaces (the plaza) either within the premises or in front of its main entrance.

Quiapo Church was no different.

The church’s plaza became known as Plaza Miranda after Jose Sandino y Miranda who was treasury secretary (1853-1854) of the Spanish colonial government. In the 19th century, the plaza teemed with devotees during the fiesta as shown in an 1854 painting by Quiapo artist and resident Jose Honorato Lozano.

Then, during the post-war era, Plaza Miranda became the gathering place for political rallies especially when the presidents wanted to personally face the people to address the nation’s issues.

Sergio Osmeña delivered his election speech 3

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here during the contest for the presidency in 1946. Manuel Roxas survived an assassination attempt when a disgruntled barber, Julio Guillen, hurled a grenade at him during a rally for parity rights. It was Ramon Magsaysay who coined the phrase “Can we defend this in Plaza Miranda” when debate was called for by his political opponents on government policies.

Then, in 1971, came the infamous incident in Philippine political history. On August 21, during a Liberal Party miting de avance for the upcoming senatorial elections, two grenades were hurled on the stage where the candidates were about to be proclaimed. Nine people were killed and scores were injured. The Plaza Miranda bombing was the prelude to President Ferdinand Marcos’ declaration of martial law and the start of his dictatorial rule.

Lately, the plaza was a meeting place for converging rallyists from all points of the city who would then proceed to their main rallying point either at Liwasang Bonifacio or Malacañang Palace.

Nuestro Padre Jesus Nazareno

Though the Nazareno is one of the most popular religious images in the Philippines, its origins are vague.

The pained figure of the Christ bearing the cross on his shoulder was believed to have been carved by a Mexican artist out of molave. He then painted the image to match the color of his brown skin.

The Nazareno was then said to have arrived from Mexico on board a Manila-Acapulco galleon in the early 17th century with the Augustinian Recollect missionaries. It was installed in the church by a confraternity under the guidance of the Recollects. It immediately gained a popular devotion. The statue was blessed by Manila Archbishop Basilio Sanchez de Santa Justa in the 18th century and by Pope Pius VII in the 19th century.

Except for a few repairs and replacements done because of the statue’s age, as well as the regular wear and tear during processions, the Nazareno has lasted through the centuries. It is dressed in a maroon robe of velvety cloth that is usually donated by well-to-do families. The sleeves and collar are laced with white ruffs. The only pieces of expensive “jewelry” on it are the three potensiyas on its head which are made of gold beaten and shaped to resemble rays of light.

T-CHRONICLE T-CHAUFFEUR Tragedy strikes

In 1929, tragedy struck when a fire destroyed the Quiapo Church. The blaze began before 8:00 on Wednesday night, October 30. Faulty electric wiring started the fire that began near the entrance of the baptistery just at the back of the altar of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The flames crept up to the choir loft and then to the ceiling and onto the roof.

The curate rushed to the main altar and grabbed the Blessed Sacrament from its case. Residents who saw the flames and smoke barged inside, rushed to the main altar and rescued the Black Nazarene.

It was temporarily moved to a nearby house before it was stored in the home of Señora Juana Vda. de Ocampo, another Quiapo resident.

The church suffered massive damage. A large section of the roof, the entire ceiling, the chandeliers, the choir loft and its organ, the pews as well as the minor altars were all reduced to ashes. Only the main altar, the church walls, and the bell tower remained.

The new church

In spite of the state of the church, the parishioners still held their masses and the 1930 January fiesta among the ruins. City authorities at first disallowed the ceremonies inside the church as accidents might have happened if the remaining rafters fell. But the church officials made-do by stringing sheets of cloth across the ceiling to catch any falling timbers. The fact that no one was hurt during the entire time masses were held was attributed as a miracle of the Nazareno.

After the fiesta, the parish priest commissioned Architect Juan Nakpil to design a new church.

It was an appropriate task for Nakpil—his family traced back their roots to Quiapo and his forefathers and present relatives were devotees of the Nazarene. It was said that he made the plans for the new church for free as an offering to the Nazareno.

Nakpil designed the new church in a neo-Baroque style and constructed it in reinforced

concrete. He added another belfry and erected a magnificent dome. The interiors were also a product of his artistic genius—Corinthian and Ionic columns; arches that outlined the entrances and windows; side aisles and exposed trusses; a towering nave that led to the main altar where the Nazareno stands up high; and light coming from the windows below the dome. The façade was centered with a baroque four-leaf clover shaped window that let in rays of light shining towards the main altar.

It was a magnificent piece of work from a man who would later be honored by his country as the first National Artist for Architecture.

The church was damaged during World War II when Japanese soldiers set fire to the Quiapo district while retreating from the American forces in 1945. The Nazareno was taken out of the church and brought to the Nakpil house across the street for safety. The fire failed to spread, however, when Quezon Boulevard, the road bisecting the church from the residential districts on the other side, acted as a buffer zone against the fire.

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4. Carriedo Street is one of the busiest streets in the district of Quiapo.

5. The old Quiapo Church was originally designed with a single belfry on the left side.

6. The Feast of the Black Nazarene is celebrated every 9th of January.

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The story of the place

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By: Jose Victor Z. Torres Photo by: Stanley Ong

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7. The present-day view of Quezon Boulevard taken from Raon overpass 8. Stalls and shops line the sides of Quezon Boulevard.

9. Every Friday, devotees of the Black Nazarene flock the church.

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Modernizing Quiapo

Post-World War II Quiapo was a rapidly modernizing place that totally changed the district.

Traffic jams became commonplace. It wasn’t long before Quiapo became congested. It became a center of hawkers and vendors of dry and wet goods. It also became a migration point for people from the provinces trying their luck in the city.

Even the church became a magnet for local mysticism. Popular worship of the Nazareno also brought a host of albularyos (faith healers) and peddlers of medicinal herbs around the church. Fortune tellers began to pervade the plaza.

Local officials of Manila also played a part in changing Quiapo’s landscape. Pedestrian and vehicular underpasses were built to minimize road traffic. Plaza Miranda was cleared of vehicles and resumed its role as a public space fronting the church.

But the modernization of the area soon drew its old families away from the neighborhood.

The old houses of Quiapo were bought and torn down to make way for modern buildings.

Soon, even the old church was not spared.

In the early 1980s, the then parish priest decided to renovate the church saying that there wasn’t enough space to let in air and light. All the columns were torn down and the side walls expanded outward with entrances and windows. The façade window was covered and a canopy was built over the main entrance. Although the church was larger and could accommodate more people, the interior now looked like a warehouse or a basketball court with marble walls.

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Opposite page: Top: The Quezon Bridge links the northern and southern districts of Manila.

Bottom: The renovated Lacson Underpass

Friends of Juan Nakpil said that the old man, who was already in his 80s, could only stare helplessly as workers knocked down his columns and changed the church’s appearance. He was said to have cried out in anguish, “What are they doing to my design?!” Watching his beloved church altered beyond beauty was said to have hastened his death. Only the belfries and the dome remained of the original Nakpil architecture.

But it seemed that the loss of Quiapo’s architectural heritage was far from over. In 2000, thenmayor Joselito Atienza gave Plaza Miranda a “facelift”, surfacing it with unpolished granite, building arches around its boundaries, and placing an obelisk on one side to commemorate the plaza’s role in our political history. Although the plaza now appears cleaner and is a worthwhile place to stroll about today, the decorations and arches obstruct the view of the church. And for several years, the Nazareno procession had to exit from a side entrance as the heavy carroza might crack the granite pavement.

A continuing heritage

Still, in spite of the changes that have occurred throughout the years, Quiapo retains that flavor of old. The religious tradition of the Nazareno still holds firm and continues to grow with more devotees. And, every January, Quiapo is still the place to go to and honor one of the oldest images in the country today.

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By: Jose Victor Z. Torres Photo by: Stanley Ong

The story of the place

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T-CHRONICLE T-CHAUFFEUR

The Dirty Harry of Manila

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frequent subject of news headlines, Alfredo S. Lim had once been touted as the Dirty Harry of Manila because of his tough and controversial stance on the city’s underworld. During his long tenure as the mayor of Manila, he became one of the most identifiable figures with the city itself.

After an attempt at the presidency and one term as senator, he returned to local politics and won as Mayor of Manila during the 2007 elections. Tsuper takes some time out of the mayor’s busy schedule and chats with him in the middle of Plaza Miranda, one of Manila’s best known historical landmarks.

Tsuper: Why did you decide to go back to local politics after your stint in national politics as a Senator?

Mayor Lim (ML): Well, there is a difference between a legislative and an executive function. In the Senate, as with the Lower House, we are tasked with enacting laws. Pag merong problema, like with problems affecting different sectors, kailangang dumaan pa ng napakaraming committees; eh, how long will that take? Usually it takes months to enact a law. Yung problema hindi pa rin nagagawan ng paraan. Eh, medyo nalalagay ako sa alanganin ‘pag ganun.

As mayor, ‘pag may pumunta sa opisina mo, humihingi ng tulong, immediately you can take action. You can coordinate directly with the different departments, kaya ang nangyayari, nagkakaroon ka ng instant action. In the Senate, palagi maraming nag-aaway-away. Eh, ayoko ‘ring makipag-away. Kahit maraming naninira s’akin, ayoko na lang silang pansinin.

Tsuper: What are your immediate plans as mayor of Manila?

ML: I think that the first thing we should do is to [sic] clean up the city. How can you be proud of a city which is dirty and there are so many obstructions and unsightly things? That is why I want all the departments to be involved in helping to spruce up the city.

Tsuper: What things have changed since your successful bid for reelection last year as mayor of Manila?

ML: Well, it’s been more than a year since I was re-elected. And the first thing I did was to open up Rizal Avenue…its closure has [sic] contributed to the worsening traffic situation because all the vehicles were re-routed to side streets. We also opened up the other streets which were closed so as to open it up for people because business in the area was already deteriorating. So, nung binuksan namin yung mga kalsada, nabuhay ulit yung mga business establishments dun sa lugar. We also allotted some space for the vendors in a way that they will not be obstructing the foot traffic in the area. This is a continuing effort because we don’t want to treat the vendors as criminals also. Syempre, ‘yan ang sinasabi lang ng mga ‘yan. Bigyan lang naman sila ng pagkakataon para magkaroon ng kabuhayan dahil wala naman tayong maibibigay na trabaho. So our response to that is we allow them to continue their means of livelihood so as [sic] long as they are not on the sidewalks, para hindi naman sila makaabala sa mga tao at sa mga motorista.

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Tsuper: You say that one of your plans as mayor is to bring back the glory of Old Manila? What are your favorite places here in Manila?

ML: I like Manila Bay. Di ba ipinagmamalaki natin ang Manila Bay? It’s because of the glorious Manila Bay sunset. There used to be beerhouses and structures in the Baywalk area but I had it [sic] removed kasi nagrereklamo ‘yung mga taong nakatira dun sa kabilang side ng Roxas Boulevard because of the noise. And since the sunset in Manila Bay is good enough on its own, why would we obstruct the view with all these structures, ‘di ba? I hope that everyone will get a chance to visit the area (Manila Bay) because it is really beautiful.

Tsuper: Quiapo is one of the well-known areas in Manila, particularly because of the Church of the Black Nazarene. On the other side is the Muslim area where the Golden Mosque is located. Do you have any plans for the Muslim area?

ML: Ang pananaw kasi natin d’yan, whether Muslims or Christians, pantaypantay lang ang pagtingin natin d’yan. The law applies to all; walang malakas, walang mahina. Walang mayaman, walang mahirap. Walang marunong, walang mangmang. I believe that we are a brotherhood of Filipinos, kaya nakakalungkot lang na nagkaka-away-away ‘yung mga tao dun sa Mindanao.

Tsuper: You’ve been in office long enough to already be exposed to different systems of administration. Is there any city, whether locally or internationally, whose planning system you admire?

ML: Of course meron. These are the likes of Governor [Grace] Padaca of Isabela and Governor [Eddie] Panlilio of Pampanga. Also, Mayor [Rodrigo] Duterte of Davao City, former Mayor [Vicente] Emano of Cagayan de Oro, Mayor [Edward] Hagedorn of Puerto Princesa, and Mayor Tony Osmeña of Cebu City. I consider them as [sic] good mayors and governors kasi magaganda ang nagagawa nila para sa kanilang respective localities kasi binubuhos nila ang lahat ng effort at kakayahan para mapaganda ang kanilang lugar. The depressing thing is that most public officials now only look out [sic] after their own personal interest. Marami d’yan na nagpapayaman lang which should not be the case.

Tsuper: Do you still plan to run for public office?

ML: Ah no, not anymore! I prefer being in office here in Manila as long as the people of Manila would [sic] still want me. (Laughs)

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By: Kristina Rita Photo by: Jovel Lorenzo

Who/What make/s the place a total production?

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T-CHRONICLE PROD

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Rany, 23, has been selling toys in Quiapo for three years. The toys are cheap compared to those being sold in malls with his wares priced from P35-P50.

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XSE : Extra Small Enterprise - Quiapo’s eXtra Small Enterprise has long been around for decades. Plying their trade around

Albert Peregrino sells rat poison (zinc phosphide) for P20 each, decloggers made from long aluminum wires, and panapal ng kaserola for P10 each.

Nads Deloria, 63, also works at a realty company and sidelines in Quiapo during the afternoons; strings/ ropes range from P5 to P20

Alex Dimaporo sells shawls from Dubai for P100 each.

T-CHRONICLE PROD Plaza Miranda, these merchants are budding entreprenuers in their own right.

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Lourdes Larisa, 65, started selling sampaguitas in Quiapo in 1976. She buys the sampaguita wholesale at P100 for 200 pieces and sells them for P10 per four pieces. She starts selling as early as 4am on Fridays.

Clarita Vasquez, 56, has been selling plastic bags in Quiapo since 2002. The bags cost from P20 to P50 each.

Leticia Dagoro sells beads, rosaries, novenas, and scapulars for P10 per pieces. She started selling in Quiapo years ago when sampaguitas only cost 10¢ each.

Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo

Who/What make/s the place a total production?

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very 9th of January, devotees walk barefoot braving the intense heat, torrential rain and congested traffic just to be part of the Feast of the Black Nazarene. Being a predominantly Christian nation, this Filipino panata is a solemn act of devotion, in the hopes of a better life, good health and forgiveness.

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Photo by: Alanah Torralba

Who/What make/s the place a total production?

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T-CHRONICLE PROD FEAST

Illustrated by: Rommel Estanislao

Impressions

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T-CHRONICLE BARRIOSCAPE

A House of History

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This century-old house stands proud amidst modernity and chaos.

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Noisy,” “bustling,” and “busy” are words that describe present-day Quiapo. It has become a hub for noises from the traffic of all kinds of vehicles that converge in Manila from all points of the metropolis.

Ask “What is Quiapo?” and you’ll get a hodge-podge of answers: from religious devotion—the Feast of the Black Nazarene is still a boon for countless devotees and a bane for many commuters every 9th of January to sellers of sidewalk wares of dry and wet goods—fresh fruit and vegetables down on Calle Echague to clothes and fake DVDs from the inner roads of Arquiza, Barbosa and Globo de Oro Streets.

But there is a side of Quiapo that may only be known to earlier generations and current historians. The place where lies the remnants of its past. The structures of an era long gone and possibly forgotten—Quiapo’s heritage.

Old houses still stand in some parts of Quiapo, symbols of the district’s rich past. Though many had been abandoned by their original families, one house remains well-kept, preserved through time by its owners whose lineage stands preserved in our history.

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T-CHRONICLE T-CHAUFFEUR 41 The story of the place

Heritage house

The house is a tasteful four-storey structure that faces Calle Barbosa (now A. Bautista Street) while the back overlooks the Estero de Quiapo—the main estuary that bisects the district and empties into the Pasig River.

The Bahay Nakpil-Bautista, as it is now called, stands stately amidst the debris of a modernized Quiapo. It is a typical bahay na bato, constructed for a large family to live in while doubling as a business establishment. Its name was derived from its original owners: physician and philanthropist Dr. Ariston Bautista and his wife, Petrona Nakpil.

“The Nakpils were the original owners of the property,” explains Bahay Nakpil curator Teresa Obusan. “There were two houses on this lot. Dr. Bautista had this house built in 1914 for the family and their relatives.”

Designed by Filipino architect Arcadio Arellano, the house has a unique history.

Arellano merely granted the request of his client on how their new abode would look like.

And it was, indeed, a unique request. The Bautistas had then received a new set of furniture given as a gift by one of their friends, the Prietos, who had just arrived from Europe. The furniture design was that of the Viennese Secession—a modern design that was then becoming popular in the continent. These designs had stark linear patterns that were based on vines and floral forms.

Using these styles, Arellano designed the high ceiling panels with elongated curves, tulip-shaped ventilation holes for the coladas or roof dividers, and stylized lyre-shaped iron grilles for the wide windows.

The house was planned in such a way that Nakpil family members were given sections of the house to live in and raise their families. Obusan said that there were at least 20 people living in the house at one time.

Bahay Nakpil today

Bahay Nakpil-Bautista survived the destruction brought about by World War II. Modern times have changed little of the house. The rooms are, at present, being rented out to boarders and the money used for maintenance. Part of the interior is a museum where memorabilia of its former occupants are kept. One of the bedrooms is now a small gallery dedicated to Gregoria de Jesus. Nothing much remains of the furniture and decorations today after they were distributed among relatives when Dr. Bautista died without leaving a will.

The house is also a venue for historical and cultural seminars. It is also usually visited by students on educational trips, curious tourists, cultural heritage advocates, artists, and architects. Famous personalities also drop by, fascinated by the history of the place.

Bahay Nakpil-Bautista’s present role in today’s Quiapo is as a reminder of the Quiapo that was. Though there may be facets of politics, religion, and business in the area, this notable home is a testament to a Filipino family’s rich history and an even richer one for the country.

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By Jose Victor Z. Torres Photos by: Stanley Ong

A place for the arts

The occupants of Bahay Nakpil-Bautista were a family steeped in history and culture. Ariston was a noted propagandist and was an avid art collector. Works by Juan Luna (which included the controversial “Parisian Life”) and Felix Resurrection Hidalgo once hung on the sala walls.

The house was also where Katipunan Supremo Andres Bonifacio’s widow, Gregoria de Jesus, lived. The Lakambini of the Katipunan married Julio Nakpil, a composer, the commander of revolutionary troops in the northern Philippines, and Petrona’s brother, in 1898 and the couple was invited by the Bautistas to live in the house. Here, Julio and Oriang raised their family of six children; Juan, Julia, Francisca, Josefina, Mercedes, and Caridad (two children, Juana and Lucia, died early). Like their parents, the Nakpil children became famous in their various fields of study. The eldest, Juan, was named National Artist for Architecture in the ‘70s.

Both Oriang and Julio would live out their days at the house. The Lakambini died in 1943 while Julio died 17 years after.

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1. Fortune tellers line the street of Hidalgo.

2. Amulets to ward off diseases 3. Candles of different colors signify various wishes and desires.

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Opposite page: Another typical day in Plaza Miranda

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The story of the place

Quiapo, the former hub that old-timers call “downtown,” is surely the armpit of Manila, with the River Pasig as its sweat gland, running along its side, carrying with it spits of unanswered prayers and vomits of unrequited desires. Over the years, with the rapid sprawl of Metro Manila, the concept of a downtown has been eradicated from our urban-geographic consciousness and been replaced with pockets of ghettos adhering to an assortment of religious alliances. This might as well be 14th century Cordoba, Spain, where Jews, Pagans, Moslems and Christians coexisted harmoniously; and really, it isn’t so bad after all! he best time to visit Quiapo is on Fridays. Not only is it the day the Black Nazarene is honored but it’s also when the Muslim community go to the Golden Mosque for their weekly ablutions.

This is when Quiapo is at its most vulnerable.

With what is clearly the most spectacular display of paganism and mass-hypnosis, men from all walks of life display their bravado through a lethal combination of Malay amok, Mexican machismo, and a Filipino sense of self-flagellation, in the vain hope of achieving instantaneous salvation. Their preferred accessory or symbol is the “Good Morning” hand towel, haphazardly silk-screened with the image of Christ, not dissimilar to Veronica’s veil, thus turning it into the poor man’s graphic expression of deliverance.

Inside the Basilica, elderly female devotees in maroon-colored dress cling to their rosary beads while walking on their knees along the aisle. Meanwhile, in what is clearly a public display of idolatry not witnessed since the veneration of the golden calf, scores of fellow worshippers wait patiently to kiss and rub with their handkerchief, the star attraction: the Aztec-designed, chocolate brown, Señor Nazareno.

To add a touch of perversity to the occasion, traders of various persuasions accumulate

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outside, proffering their wares and agenda: For P100, modern-day prophets with their transportable boards, rest on their monobloc chairs, eager to outline one’s destiny. Herbalists with their little voodoo stalls sell amulets, incense and myrrh, eucalyptus- and mandarininfused oils, dried leaves and barks in vials concocted as abortifacients. With each one signifying various wishes and desires, you can find candles in a myriad of colors on sale: red for gratitude and good health, green for money, blue for atonement and black for revenge; all ablaze and smoldering in the hope that pity will be bestowed upon its owner should the smoke reach the gods in heaven.

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By: Ige Ramos Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo and Stanley Ong

Quiapo: thank god it’s friday

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Allah Valley

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aving been driven out by the bearded, cross-bearing Spaniards, the descendants of Raja Sulayman have returned to reclaim their territory. Since the building of a mosque in 1976, the Muslim population of Quiapo has swelled to the extent that Quezon Boulevard is now the dividing line between the Catholics and the followers of Islam (think Gaza Strip but without the violence).

While perusing through titles of repurposed digital materials (read: illicit DVDs) on the streets of Globo de Oro, Elizondo, and parts of Carlos Palanca (formerly Echague), one could be forgiven for thinking they were in Mindanao or a Middle Eastern souk. As the call to prayer or adhan blares from the minarets emanating from the Masjid al-Dahab or the Golden Mosque in Elizondo Street, men donned in white robes and caps (a symbol to signify a pilgrimage to the Haj in Mecca) and with their prayer mats tucked under their arms make their way towards the mosque.

Upon the instructions of former First Lady Imelda Marcos, construction on the mosque commenced in 1975 and just in time for the state visit of Libyan leader Muammar al-Qaddafi. This was seen as part of the Philippine diplomatic exercise in conjunction with the Tripoli Agreement.

Architect Jorge Ramos (who was also responsible for the Manila Film Center) was commissioned as its designer. Aside from adhering to the strict tenets of Islamic architecture, Ramos incorporated Maranao indigenous folk motifs from the geometric landap weaving pattern and the more florid okir and pako rabong, not only to embellish its walls and parts of its dome but also to ascertain its Filipino provenance. Although the state visit never materialized, the mosque was nevertheless inaugurated in 1976. Sadly, it has long since lost its luster.

Flerida (not her real name) is a recently-elected kagawad (barangay board member) and my favored cineaste and purveyor of quality digital data. She recommends nothing but classic American movie musicals and can enumerate films starring the likes of Gene Kelly, Bing Crosby, and Fred Astaire. She even specializes in pre-Hollywood Hitchcock. I was amazed when she produced a copy of the 1939 film 39 Steps starring Robert Donat and hordes of unknown British 5 1. Apang, a Muslim delicacy sold for P10 2. Young Muslim salesladies in front of their clothing store 3. Pirated DVDs and VCDs 4. Muslim caps are sold for P100 each.

5. View of the Golden Mosque from Norzagarray Street Opposite page: 6. One of the religious statues found at Taller de Escultura 7. Worker in Taller de Escultura 8. The Ocampo Pagoda was built in the mid 1930s.

9. The Times Theater, one of the first fully air-conditioned theater in Manila.

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actors. Lately, she’s been selling Malaysian pop music and Arabic religious chants, and even prayers in quadraphonic stereo.

Her next-door neighbor runs a halal restaurant featuring traditional Maranao and Maguindanao home cooking, consisting mostly of fish, chicken, or vegetables cooked with coconut cream (gatâ) and infused with lemon grass, ginger, or turmeric. So parochial are these restaurants that you won’t find a printed menu or listed items on any board; instead you need to inquire about what is displayed on the counter. You may want to befriend a local to accompany you to identify what is on offer and perhaps request a brief culinary tour. The endearing lady of the house addresses all her customers as tayan, Maguindanao for mahal or love.

It is no secret that the Muslim quarter in Quiapo is the baksakan or clearing-house for illicit digital material and is perhaps the main reason why the (grey) economy has soared considerably in recent years and, with it, massive rural migration. Following on from the Optical Media Board’s crusade against piracy, some

traders have diversified to batik textiles from Malaysia, Middle-Eastern carpets and praying rugs made with acrylic fibers, South Sea pearls, semi-precious stones, and fake signature shirts from China.

A consequence of the colossal population growth in this three-km/sq. barangay is the strain it places on the already stretched city resources. It is not uncommon to see burst water pipes, hanging electrical wires, and heavy flooding due to the garbage-clogged esteros (waterways). A lack of suitable housing has also forced old structures and ancestral homes to be subdivided into a maze of squalid accesories, with some housing at least 20 families. How ironic, then, that one of the streets in this barangay is named Gunao, the Tagalog word for “destruction by inundation”, akin to Noah and his arch in the Bible or the Prophet Noe in the Q’uran, when relating the judgment day deluge. For most Moslems living and eking out a living in this community, their income, however small, and the peaceful existence, regardless of conditions, is more favorable to dodging bullets and mortar shells in Pikit or Midsayap.

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TAKESHI’s castle

The story of the place

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cross Quezon Bridge, on the banks of Estero de Quiapo, lies an imposing structure that could almost be a film set from the Kurosawa samurai epic “Kagemusha”. Totally out of context in Quiapo’s architectural environment, the Ocampo Pagoda is styled after a medieval Japanese castle and is made entirely of concrete. Built on a whim and for his love of Oriental art in the mid 1930s by the lawyer Jose Ocampo, the pagoda was the centerpiece for his garden estate. Although he never lived there, it became his office and, at the outbreak of the Second World War, was used as an air-raid shelter.

It is said that since the Pagoda looked like a Shinto Shrine from above, it was spared from both the Japanese and American bombing during the liberation of the city. After the war, the vast estate was subdivided and sold by the Ocampo heirs. To this day, an enormous allegorical statue of a very oriental-looking Our Lady of Carmel can be gleamed from shanties and homes that surround it.

The entrance courtyard is haphazardly roofed with iron grills and tarpaulin, while a misplaced bas-

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relief concrete Chinese dragon remains a silent witness to the once genteel and now ramshackle Ocampo Estate. Since the Pagoda now serves as a boarding house for OFWs, mostly seamen waiting for their assignments, a giant television set is blaring from one side of the courtyard’s wall while several dozen men in their shorts and sandos sit watching afternoon dramas.

Security is so tight one must be recommended by a resident to gain access, and the manager refuses point blank to give casual interviews or allow the most cursory of ocular inspections.

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Boulevard of broken dreams

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By: Ige Ramos Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo and Stanley Ong

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ack on the sidewalk of Quezon Boulevard lies an army of notary publics, thesis typists, itinerant rubber-stamp carvers, shoe-shine boys, locksmiths, and various stands selling not only cigarettes and candy but sex paraphernalia like goat’s eyelashes and condoms studded with bolitas (tiny metal balls). Once beautifully appointed bazaars and specialty shops are now ukay-ukay, hardware and bicycle stores, sleazy hotels and lodging houses that can be rented by the hour, carinderias and panciterias, and massage parlors. The famed art deco-inspired Times Theater, one of the first fully-air conditioned cinemas in Manila, still stands in all its faded glory, showing second-run, double-billed movies.

A small esquinita known as Escaldo leads to Barbosa Street, where Bahay Nakpil-Bautista, the former home of Dr. Ariston Bautista and his wife, Doña Petrona Nakpil, still stands proudly amidst the decay that surrounds it. Now a museum, Arcadio Arellano built this bahay na bato in the Viennese Secessionist style. It is one of the remaining vestiges of Ilustrado gentility that can still be gleamed to this day.

Such is the pedigree of the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista that one of its major advocates is the anthropologist and professor at the Ateneo de Manila University, Dr. Fernando N. Zialcita. His passion for wanting to revitalize Quiapo as a living heritage site comes from being part of the Nakpil-Bautista lineage. The enthusiasm he demonstrates in his lectures is clearly hard-wired in his DNA, proven last year by a book he edited, “Quiapo: Heart of Manila”. Because of these efforts, regular walking tours, symposia, and art events are held regularly in the museum, along with a curatorial team organized and headed by Dr. Tessie Obusan.

Below the museum is the Taller de Escultura of Mr. and Mrs. Gener Maglaqui, where they create and restore santos or religious statues. Mr. Gener Maglaqui is a fine-wood craftsman who worked with the Talleres de Maximo Vicente, the bespoke woodcarving shop in Ermita. Gener’s wife, Mrs. Cely Maglaqui, grew up in the Bahay Bautista-Nakpil and modestly states that they are simply the katiwala or house-sitters.

1, 2, 3. Century-old bahay na bato line the street of R. Hidalgo.

4. The San Sebastian Church was allegedly designed

by Gustave Eiffel.

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horse-drawn tramvia used to run along R. Hidalgo Street (the Quiapo old-timers fondly call it Erre Hidalgo; not to be confused with the R. Hidalgo with its camera shops). The stately houses were built during the trading boom of the mid-19th century when the Port of Manila was formally opened at the end of the Galleon Trade and the inauguration of the Suez Canal until the “peacetime” just before the Second World War. Familiar Filipino surnames like Paterno, Araneta, Palanca, Tuason, Legarda, Zamora, Hidalgo, Ocampo, Bautista, and Nakpil all started their business empires in Quiapo. According to Luning B. Ira and Isagani Medina in the book The Streets of Manila, “They were proponents of a gracious lifestyle, a kind and generous ‘urbanity’ that was soon to become legend. The new breed created an ambience of ‘noble hospitality’ that emanated from large, luxurious houses along wide straight streets lined with shady trees, with cool promenades and benches on the banks of the three lakes in the vicinity. It was indeed an elegant town. ”

Walking through R. Hidalgo Street, now little more than a jeepney terminal, makes me want to

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weep with shame and anger, even more so when glimpsing what remains of those stately homes, all in various stages of decomposition. Nothing has been done to save R. Hidalgo Street. On a clear day you, may see families sitting at the windowsill of one of these old houses, while a cacophony of noise from hawkers shouting their wares, wailing jeepney horns, and videoke machines assaults the senses. It is a sad fact that those who should know better have no clear vision on urban planning and, because of constant neglect, all of these will undoubtedly disappear forever.

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Photo courtesy of Manila Bulletin

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T-CHRONICLE T-CHAUFFEUR

5. The stained glass windows inside San Sebastian Church were supplied by German firm Henri Oidtmann Company.

6. The altar was designed by Filipino artist Lorenzo Guerrero.

7. The steel frame structure of the basilica 8. The interiors of San Sebastian Church are reminiscent of Gothic churches found in Europe.

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commissioned to apply the finishing touches to the church and assisted in the installation of the stained glass windows supplied by the Henri Oidtmann Company, a German firm.

In 1973, former President Ferdinand Marcos declared the San Sebastian Church a National Historical Landmark and in 1982, a state-sponsored restoration was coursed through the National Historical Institute, with the Augustinian Recollect community continuing to fund the church’s maintenance and restoration.

Due to its architectural provenance, it was short-listed in 2006 as a possible candidate for designation as a World Heritage Site, thereby joining the esteemed company of the centuries-old Baroque Churches of the Philippines, including the San Agustin Church in Intramuros, Miag-ao Church in Iloilo, and the Paoay Church in Paoay, Ilocos Norte. The fact that the San Sebastian Church stands side by side with Gustave Eiffel’s famous Tower and the Statue of Liberty should, in itself, encourage us to appreciate and recognize the value of our heritage.

The story of the place

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t the end of R. Hidalgo Street, the full vista of the San Sebastian Church, with its monumental proportions, can be enjoyed. Formally known as the Basilica Minore de San Sebastian, the church is a Roman Catholic minor basilica in Manila. It is the seat of the Parish of San Sebastian and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Completed in 1891 in Neo-Gothic style, its architect was Genaro Palacios. The powder-blue structure looks deceptively to be made of concrete, but is in fact made from pre-fabricated modular steel, making it the first and only allsteel church in Asia.

Upon the orders of the parish priest of that period, Fr. Esteban Martinez, Palacios designed a fire-and earthquake-proof church that could withstand the test of time. Palacios, having just arrived from Europe, had a vision to design a gothic church inspired by the Cathedral of Burgos in Spain but made with modern material like steel and reinforced concrete, similar to the European secular structures built in that period, which was the height of the Industrial Revolution.

The preliminary designs of the church were sent to Gustave Eiffel’s construction and consulting firm, Eiffel et Cie. Together with the Belgian engineer Téophile Seyrig, the massive steel sheets, armatures, and modules were designed and manufactured in Binche, Belgium and coursed through a Belgian company, Enterprise de Travaux Publiques, S.A. The first of the eight shipments from Brussels arrived in 1888, the colossal shipment totaling 52 tons. The American architect I. M. Pei attested this information since, when undertaking a global register of Eiffel’s works, the investigation, supported with material sources from the Eiffel archives in Paris, showed that Eiffel did indeed have a hand in designing the church.

Lorenzo Rocha and his students once painted its ceiling and walls with trompe l’oeil in fauxmarble that yields an iridescent finish. Lorenzo Guerrero, adhering to the Gothic style and tradition, designed the main altar, pulpit, confessionals, and the five retablos. The holy water fonts near the entrances and the baptismal font were crafted using Romblon marble. Local artisans were

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By: Ige Ramos Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo and Stanley Ong

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SHop ‘til you drop

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lalim ng tulay, literally “under the bridge”, or more specifically, under the Quezon Bridge, for years has been home to and synonymous with Philippine “native” sundries, folk houseware, and handicrafts. This is where balikbayan relatives should be taken for a patriotic-retail-therapy-fix. You can buy practically anything “Pinoy” in this market-under-the-bridge, ranging from the most elegant: embroidered table cloths with matching serviettes, ikat wall-hangings and fully-beaded evening bags; lamps and lighting fixtures made from capiz shells, stone laminates, and bamboo; to the functional: massage implements, back-scratchers, hammocks made of abaca, walis tambo (brooms), baskets, and bayongs; and of course, the obligatory kitsch-o-rama: folk paintings featuring bucolic scenes, giant spoons and forks and rosaries, man-in-the-barrels, carved-wood male genitalia ashtrays, and even coin purses made from real frogs. Prices are still affordable by balikbayan standards and one can bargain shamelessly.

The next stop should be Manila’s oldest market: La Quinta or simply Quinta Market along Echague (now Carlos Palanca). Though it was recently renovated and its façade decorated with stained glass, it still looks as grimy as ever. Yet this is an organized market, with each section clearly defined. On the side nearest the bridge is the carinderia or the cooked food section. If you’re brave enough and have the proper inoculations, you can have a culinary-at-your-own-risk-adventure, but always bear in mind: Caveat emptor (Let the buyer beware). Just behind Quinta Market is the Pasig River Ferry Station, from where operates a regular service from Plaza Magallanes in Intramuros to Kalawaan in Pasig City, with ports-of-call at Escolta, Sta. Mesa, Guadalupe in Makati, and Pasig.

Walking through Carlos Palanca through the corner of the pedestrianized Carriedo and R. Hidalgo Streets, there are still rows of stores selling textiles, houseware, and kitchen utensils. The old SM Carriedo Building where Henry Sy humbly started his retail empire is located there. Since the corporate offices moved to a new location in Pasay, the SM Carriedo Building is now an SM clearance store, selling merchandise at discounted prices. In the late 60s, the building boasted a revolving restaurant giving a 360-degree view of the city.

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Carriedo in its time was renowned for its shoes and, in particular, its Marikina-made shoes enjoyed much patronage and popularity. Long before the advent of digital technology, R. Hidalgo was the photographer’s paradise. Cameras, accessories, film and processing facilities, and a myriad of other photography-related paraphernalia were freely available.

The career of the celebrated advertising photographer John Chua of AdPhoto benefited greatly from the photography shops in R. Hidalgo. To show his gratitude and pay homage to the street, he proposed the “Hidalgo Project” to former Manila Mayor Lito Atienza, and so the idea of revitalizing the business environment of R. Hidalgo was embraced by the city government.

In 2006, the street was pedestrianized, the Hidalgo Business Owners Group was formed, and together with the support of the Federation of Philippine Photographer’s Foundation, John Chua organized a year-long campaign to sustain the program’s efforts. Sadly, with the change of city government, the Hidalgo Project was prematurely terminated and has once again become a haven for sidewalk vendors.

1. Vintage film projector found in R. Hidalgo 2. The barrel man is a popular FIlipino decorative item.

3. Native woven handbags 4. Vintage cameras 5. Native handicrafts sold under the Quezon Bridge 6. Workers inside Dong’s Camera Shop 7. Raon Shopping Center is known for electronics and gadgets.

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Raon and its videoke king

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aon (now Gonzalo Puyat) was once Manila’s Tin Pan Alley. In the 50s and 60s, its record bars sold the latest in pop and sheet music. Raon was also famous for selling trophies, sporting goods, and musical instruments, as well as being a major clearinghouse for jukebox rental and dealership. Top hits were determined by the amount of 45rpm records loaded into the jukeboxes, which were then dispatched throughout the city and outlying provinces. Pop sensations like Sylvia La Torre, Bobby Gonzales and later, Victor Wood, Fred Panopio, Yoyoy Villame, Imelda Papin, and Claire dela Fuente should be grateful to this humble street for espousing their sterling musical careers.

With analog being replaced by digital technology, all this has now changed. People purchase music differently and so, with the arrival of CDs and the availability of music downloads, Raon is no longer relevant. For years, Raon struggled to meet these challenges and eventually fostered

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the arrival of a singular product sensation: the Videoke Machine, the highly evolved cousin of the humble Karaoke Machine. Perhaps by replacing the passive jukebox, it was this one product that propelled Raon back into the limelight once again. The Videoke Machine has become a powerful entertainment tool, the possession of which is aspired to by so many Filipino families. By renting it out for various family celebrations and even wakes, it can also be used as a form of income generation.

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IN the mood for love

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ust behind the church, on Evangelista Street is the headquarters of Quiapo Printing, founded and still owned by the Reyes family. From printing invoices and receipts, this press has progressed to producing elegant and sophisticated wedding invitations under the QP Design brand, with branches that can be found in malls throughout Metro Manila.

Also on the corner of Evangelista and P. Paterno Street, is the New Alaska Soda Fountain.

Not so “new” anymore, it is an open-plan 1950s style diner where, apart from its famous halo-halo, an abundance of comfort food like hot chocolate and pan de sal or pan de limon with various fillings like cheese whiz, liver spread, potted meat, hot dog or peanut butter. This is the après-theatre place where you bring your date for a nibble after watching a movie at the nearby Guinto Cinema.

Meanwhile, along Quezon Boulevard, R. Ma Mon Luk is still the undisputed purveyor of mami, siopao, and dim sum. The eatery’s transformative interior design remains the same since its inception; elegant waiters (looking like older versions of Tony Leung) wearing black trousers, starched white short-sleeved polo shirts, and Tancho Tique pomade in their hair serve steaming bowls of mami with aplomb. It’s these little pockets of visual delights that make Quiapo almost bearable.

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8. Speakers inside a shop in Raon 9, 10. Despite operating for more than 50 years now, Globe Lumpia House in Raon Street has only one store branch in the country.

11. The popular Globe lumpia

By: Ige Ramos Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo and Stanley Ong

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T-CHRONICLE TRESPASS

The Manila Royal Hotel, once a stature of international design in the Philippines, tells a story of nobility often overlooked but never forgotten.

Exclusive Access

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By: Guillermo Lorenzo Fuertes Photos by: Harry Serrano

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t half past eight in the morning, Carlos Palanca Sr. St. is already bustling with life and movement. Between the sidewalk vendors and street peddlers, amidst the busy locale rich in mercantile history, everyone seems to be preoccupied with something. With their eyes on the money and the race to make the day’s quota, their gazes are transfixed on the streets that bring their would-be patrons.

Rich in competitive culture and touted as the soul of Manila, Quiapo remains the undisputed constant haunt for the cashstrapped and the peso-savvy. Before Cubao or Greenhills or the semi-permanent tiangges, there were Binondo, Divisoria, and Quiapo. The spectrum of Machiavellian pursuit is no more apparent than in these streets where trade is first nature. And on these same streets where money changes hands faster than heritage structures are demolished, a building worthy of heritage status quietly observes the changing of the guard.

Towering over Plaza Miranda and nearby Plaza Lacson and Quinta Market, the Manila Royal Hotel proudly stands as a testament to a not-so-distant past, when “magnate” was not part of our vocabulary and Shoemart was a humble shoe store along Carriedo. Atop this behemoth of a hotel was a revolving restaurant known in its heyday for its spectacular views of Manila and the Pasig delta. It was a place where people flocked to see and be seen at, a staple for both the romantically inclined and the socially astute.

Situated just across Pasig River, with Carriedo on the north, Gomez and R. Hidalgo on the east, Carlos Palanca on the south and Estero Cegado on the west, and overlooking Intramuros, the hotel’s location was perfect for panoramic voyeurism. Done in the International Style, it was a utilitarian antithesis to the neo-revivalism of Quiapo Church. Although the aesthetic was economical at best, the character it afforded was nothing short of what luxury needed to have translated for its patrons. It had old-world appeal against an actual old-world town, in a casing that professed onward to technology more than it did the secular.

On this day, as the antique key-operated elevator whirred its way towards the 20th floor, its human contents fumbled in anticipation, wondering if the façade gave away any clues as to what the Revolving Restaurant once looked like. Rising above the whole of Quiapo with its Seagram aesthetic of gridiron mullions and stern geometries, and crowned with an elliptical capital that reminded of futures unrealized, it could have easily been labeled as textbook plunkitecture. But when the elevator doors opened, a disparity akin to what Quiapo stands for presents itself. The cold exacting character of the skin provided a foil to the luxury enclosed in the restaurant and the garden-bar/ viewing deck below. A throwback to the Spanish mirador, the precursor of today’s penthouse suite, the deck was clad in brick red tiles. With a view of Manila unparalleled in its day, it was the epitome of how an iconic dining experience should be done.

Decked with a bar punctuated with Filipiniana vernacular, of capiz windows and awning shutters, the procession to the elliptical restaurant above was a master class on how to welcome the elite and the thespian sort. Inside the revolving restaurant, ceilings and floors were carpeted in deep cerulean, the likes of which have yet to be replicated. With its skewed, elliptical, curtained walls and streamlined modern architectural treatments, it evoked images of a naval bridge, replete with the same pride of a distinguished officer and gentleman.

In the 1970s, when trading restrictions taxed the expatriate commerce, hotels like the Manila Royal provided an informal, albeit illegal, channel for goods. The same traders that made Cluster Mall and 168 Mall the rendezvous destinations of today’s cash-strapped shoppers were in Quiapo then.

At night, the thrifty would go from room to room, looking for bargains on the latest fashion, costume jewelry, cosmetics, and other merchandise. It was the forerunner of the today’s tiangge. Back then, the demarcation line was clear. The supermarket and malls were for the bourgeoisie and the palengke was for the everyday man. Prior to the declaration of Martial Law, Quiapo became the neutral ground for both classes. In this district filled with rich history, the hawkers did not differentiate and the affluent mingled with the challenged.

In 1982, Shoemart moved from its old Binondo location, which burned down, to the lower levels of Manila Royal Hotel. Although the hotel was no longer operational by then, SM’s transfer gave a new lease on life for the building and saved it from the proverbial wrecking ball. The first three floors were recently renovated to showcase the corporation’s revitalized image branding, while the upper floors are used as storage for the outlet mall below.

Although it has been relatively well-kept compared to its contemporaries, the revolving restaurant is no longer open to the public and the only crowd that graces its plush viewing deck are SM personnel during their annual yuletide gatherings.

It was almost 12:00 when the elevator came back to life and started its downward route. As the whirring sounds reminded us of the age of the Manila Royal Hotel and as the group was back on street level, merging with the faceless crowds hurrying to lunch, we looked back up one last time, to the mighty “Old Man of Quiapo”. From its previous life of glamour and prestige to its silent and unassuming present, the Revolving Restaurant remains a testament to how much of an icon the hotel was and continues to be. It is plush and regal yet devoid of the boastfulness of today’s commercial enclaves. Beaming in proud defiance to the passing of time and the fleeting attention of youth, we are humbled to have been afforded a peek at its enduring charm. A poignant moment passes, in contemplation of what could have been. Places of this distinction are rarely seen nowadays. As the multitude proceeds with its delirious rat race, here in Quiapo is a lone gem waiting to be rediscovered.

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T-CHRONICLE TRESPASS The Manila Royal Hotel’s crowning gem is not alone. At the other end of Pasig is a well-known similar landmark. The Mutya ng Pasig Revolving Restaurant stands atop an eleven-storey Modernist tower, hovering above its namesake marketplace. Built in the mid-1970s, it sits on a five-hectare site adjacent to the City Hall complex. Besides its previously intended use, it has served as a makeshift jail and a school, as well as transitory offices for the city government. Currently unused and falling prey to vandals, the city administration announced last year a P200 million plan to revive and rehabilitate the landmark and surrounding marketplace in line with the ‘Green City’ campaign, and with the intention of bringing the Mutya ng Pasig well into the ‘age of the mall,’ as stated by its proponents. This includes an integration of informal vendors, a re-planning of the over 3,000 stalls, and architectural interventions aimed at making the landmark pleasing to patrons.

By: Guillermo Lorenzo Fuertes Photos by: Harry Serrano

Exclusive Access

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muchasgrasas

T-CHRONICLE UR-FLAIR olive overalls, P12500, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; olive fringe top, P4410, Eairth by Melissa Dizon grey tunic, P5000, Gian Romano; grey jacket, P9000, Gian Romano; jeans with print, P7500, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; scarf with ruffles, P3900, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; black plastic wedges, P3250, Melissa Shoes

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Luxury makes an understated shift in this season’s pieces inspired by muted earth colors and everything bohemian. It used to be that the “trash look” fashion aesthetic used to belong in more bohemian communities like Quiapo and Malate. Nowadays, the look has

transcended social boundaries and is now making waves in mainstream metropolis fashion circles. In an ever-growing “green-conscious” fashion landscape, decadence takes a backseat as designers go back to their native roots; one of the more famous ones being Melissa Dizon, a former designer for top retail brands such as Victoria’s Secret and Levi’s. She launched her EAIRTH line last year in Manila, taking inspiration from her trips around the country. Her designs use organically treated fabrics and has references to nature themes and native folklore characters. As fashion becomes less stereotypical and more experimental, these pieces can fit in Quiapo as much as it does in other more cosmopolitan areas in the city.

Makeup by: Ken Pagaspas Hair by: Roman Gravador

RIGHT: | ON HIM

| ON HER

Photos by: Jay Tablante Styled by: Sydney Yap

ABOVE: | drop waist pants, P7900, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; mesh top, P4000, ON HIM Gian Romano; grey knit scarf, P1500, L Manila by Lulu Tan Gan; | grey jacket, P4000, Regine Dulay; grey knit scarf with glitter, P2000, ON HER

L Manila by Lulu Tan Gan; cropped pants, P6000, Eairth by Melissa

Dizon; cage heels, P5850, Aldo

Female Model: Ana Sideco of PMAP Male Model: Don Mendoza of Mercator Agency

Urban Flair Recommendations / Place Inspired Clothing

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Other designers have embraced this aesthetic, veering away from the usual and typical tailored pieces usually manufactured for mass consumption. Indeed, luxury has become more risqué, with “trash luxe” taking fashion into a mix of high-low and an environmentallyconscious direction.

| ON HER

beige romper dress, P4320, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; necklace, P2400, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; knit shrug, P1500, L Manila by Lulu Tan Gan; open-toe pumps, P1800, Schu

T-CHRONICLE UR-FLAIR Urban Flair Recommendations / Place Inspired Clothing Female Model: Ana Sideco of PMAP Male Model: Don Mendoza of Mercator Agency

BELOW: | olive tee, P4500, Eairth by Melissa Dizon ON HIM

olive jodhpurs, P6000, Eairth by Melissa Dizon

white and gold scarf with chains, P6000, Gian Romano

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Makeup by: Ken Pagaspas Hair by: Roman Gravador

long dress, P3825, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; capelet, P12500, Eairth by Melissa Dizon tank top, P2000, Eairth by Melissa Dizon; pants, P6000, Eairth by Melissa Dizon knit scarf, P1500, L Manila by Lulu Tan Gan sleeveless jacket, P5000, Gian Romano

Photos by: Jay Tablante Styled by: Sydney Yap

RIGHT: | ON HER

| ON HIM

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Photos by: Frank Hoefsmit Styled by: Anne Bella

Male Model: Beau Balinger of RECO RECO Models Hair by: Felicity Son Male Model: Beau of Models Model: Model: Olga Torovyk Make-up by: Bobby CarlosFemale Female Olga of ofChameleon Chameleon

Style and Place

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FLAIR CHRONICLE

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Photos by: Frank Hoefsmit Styled by: Anne Bella

Male Model: Beau Balinger of RECO RECO Models Male Model: Beau of Models Hair by: Felicity Son Model: Model: Olga Torovyk Female Olga of ofChameleon Chameleon Make-up by: Bobby CarlosFemale

Style and Place

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FLAIR CHRONICLE

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FLAIR CHRONICLE

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Style and Place

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ON BEAU:

| Jacket, polo, slacks and shoes all Merger, Glorietta 3

ON OLGA:

| Denim dress, Randy Ortiz at Myth, Greenbelt 5.

Slacks, Ilaya, The Ramp, Crossings, Shangri-La Plaza

Photos by: Frank Hoefsmit Styled by: Anne Bella

Male Model: Beau Balinger of RECO RECO Models Male Model: Beau of Models Hair by: Felicity Son Model: Model: Olga Torovyk Female Olga of ofChameleon Chameleon Make-up by: Bobby CarlosFemale

The iconic modernist Picache Building, now the Philippine Savings Bank Building, stands proudly facing Quiapo Church and overlooking Plaza Miranda in Manila. The 12-storey office building was considered to be one of the first skyscrapers in Manila in the 1960s. Angel Nakpil, considered as part of the “Third Generation of Filipino Architects,” designed the building in 1962. Nakpil is also responsible for other important modernist buildings such as the National Press Club (1954) and the Lopez Museum (1960). The strong geometric composition and sleek lines of the Picache building can be attributed to Nakpil’s modernist training at Harvard University. A disciple of Walter Gropius, Nakpil rendered the building using crisp horizontal concrete floor slabs alternating with large clear glass fenestrations. Thin vertical metal struts break the horizontal lines on the façade. On the last three floors, fully glazed walls provide dramatic, uninterrupted views of Manila. The large concrete overhangs protect the glass windows from the sun. The mass is strikingly simple in its over-all rectangular form, but lyrical in its choice of concrete, metal and glass materials. Now the building somewhat blends with the other buildings adjacent to it yet provides a contrasting background to the neo-classical Quiapo church in front of it. Despite merging visually with other similarly modern structures, the Picache Building still stands out as a symbol of Filipino creative expression.

Text by: Edson Cabalfin

PICACHE BUILDING (Quiapo, Manila)

Q-SHOP

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A place best known as melting pot of the religious, the occult, and a plethora of interesting characters, Quiapo is also a place teeming with unique and interesting finds – from religious artifacts, the oftencontroversial “pamparegla” (concoction to induce menstruation) and occult pieces such as amulets and crystals. For people looking for a different shopping experience, Quiapo is the place to go.

The Black Nazareno:

The Black Nazareno is the most identifiable figure with Quiapo. As such, figures of the Black Nazareno abound, from small ones kept as tokens and personal protectors to life sized custom made versions that sell for as much as a hundred thousand pesos.

Standard sizes and their prices: Size 10 (smallest), Php 150; Size 15, Php 200; Size 20, Php 250; Size 25,Php 300; Size 30, Php 350; Size 40, Php 450; Size 50, Php 2,500; Size 60, Php 6,500

Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo

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1 Globe Lumpia: PhP 16 each; 2 Muslim cap: PhP 100; 3 Incense: PhP 20, kamangyan: PhP20; 4 Makabuhay roots: PhP 10; 5 Pamparegla: PhP 75 ; 6 Cogon roots: PhP 10; 7 Rosary: PhP 25 and PhP 30;

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Tour Turo

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8 Anting-anting (amulets): PhP 30 each ; 9 Colored wishing candles: PhP 40 per bundle ; 10 Prayer leaflets: PhP 10; 11 People-shaped prayer candles: PhP 15 each; 11; 12 Sampaguita: PhP 10

Photos by: Jay Tablante

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2008 September

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Wednesday

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6:00 AM / 0600

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69 Flux of Time

QUIAPO: BREAK OF DAWN

Photos by: Bless Afable

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2008 September

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Wednesday

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12 noon / 1200

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T-CHRONICLE PANORAMA

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71 Flux of Time

QUIAPO: MID-DAY

Photos by: Bless Afable

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2008 September

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Wednesday

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7:00 PM / 1800

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73 Flux of Time

QUIAPO: NIGHT TIME

Photos by: Bless Afable

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LEGEND 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45

Quiapo Church Black Nazarene PS Bank Golden Mosque Plaza Miranda Manila Royal Hotel San Sebastian Lacson Underpass Quinta Market DVD (Debede) Raon Hidalgo Street Globe Lumpia Bahay Nakpil Candles Optical/Dental Supplies Pamparegla (tonic to induce menstuation) Flowers Tiangge Fortune Tellers Prophet (depends on the time of the day) Masseurs/Masseuse Muslim Town Eatery Muslim Dry Goods Muslim Delicacies Muslim Town Square Ilalim ng Tulay (Local Handicrafts) Obelisk LRT Birthplace of SM Shoemart Former Entrance of Illusion Theatre Times Cinema Excelente Ham Balikbayan Handicrafts Pagoda Ancestral Houses along Hidalgo Street Quiapo Prints Design Ma Mon Luk New Alaska Soda Fountain Former Bodega Kitchenette Overpass Pasig River Ferry Station Military Clothing Supplies Baker’s Fair Hopia Hopia Lyk It

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Quiapo DATE OF BIRTH: 1556 was the first recorded history of Quiapo when the Franciscans came to Manila ADDRESS: 14 36’ 00’’ N, 120 59’ 00’’E POPULATION: 23, 138

EDITOR’S PICKS Globe Lumpia at the foot of Raon overpass.

Operating for more than 50 years, this first and only branch is visited by people from all walks of life just to savor the unique garlicky taste of this famous Filipino comfort food.

ANATOMY Quiapo is surrounded by Pasig River and the districts of Sta. Cruz, San Miguel and Sampaloc. It used to be the choice

TALK OF THE TOWN The largest area where you can buy pirated movies, software and pornographic videos can be found in Quiapo where the stores sprawl over four public streets. There were even instances where movies or telenovelas that have not yet been shown in theaters or aired in televisions are already available in Quiapo.

DEFINING EXPERIENCE The magnificent 360-degrees landscape of the whole of Manila and the cities adjacent to it from the Revolving Restaurant of the old Manila Royal Hotel.

This place is spectacular because from this vantage view, one can see the skyscrapers of Makati and Ortigas, the Quezon Bridge, the National Museum and Pasig River, the old buildings of Escolta and San Sebastian Basilica. Unfortunately, this place is off-limits to public and is presently owned by SM Carriedo.

STRENGTHS Hidalgo St. for the endless selection of cameras and camera paraphernalia The Philippine handicrafts located in the “Ilalim ng Tulay” Excellente ham Bahay Nakpil located in Bautista St. WEAKNESSES Lack of parking space Traffic-congested area Stifling heat

MUST TRY * Massage given by the visually impaired in Plaza Miranda. A full body massage would cost you P250 to P300 *Fortune tellers

T-CHRONICLE ZOOM MICRO INFO

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STARRING ROLE IN Geron Busabos: Ang batang Quiapo which was starred by former President Joseph Estrada (1964) Batang Quiapo starred by the “King of Philippine Movies” Fernando Poe, Jr., and Maricel Soriano SEE – San Sebastian Church, the only steel-church in Asia, the old houses along Hidalgo St, the Golden Mosque on Globo the Oro Street EAT- Globe fresh lumpia located at Raon St. DO – Novena every Friday, as one can witness the spectacle of men dressed as Jesus the Nazarene BUY – anything and everything one can see, Excellente ham near Quinta Market

By: Kristina Rita and Joan Soro Art by: Paul Joseph Blasco

QUIAPO ZOOMIN

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QUIAPO AERIAL SHOT

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Circa 1970s

Photos courtesy of: Manila Bulletin

Nostalgia

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LACSON UNDERPASS, QUIAPO | Circa 1970s

T-CHRONICLE SENTIMENTALITY

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Photos courtesy of: Manila Bulletin Nostalgia

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| Circa 1970s

SUPER WORLD SENTIMENTALITY

QUIAPO ZOOMOUT

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D I D YO U K N OW ? …That Evangelista Street used to be called Calle San Pedro; Pedro Paterno Street used to be Calle Noria; Regidor Street, Calle Sta. Rosa; and Resurreccion Hidalgo was Calzada de San Sebastian. …That the original location of Jose Rizal University (formerly Jose Rizal College and originally the Far Eastern College), which was established in 1919, fronted San Sebastian Church at Plaza del Carmen until it transferred to Mandaluyong in 1949, …That the University of the Philippines’ College of Fine Arts remained in Quiapo till 1928.

….That the first cinema built in Quiapo was on the corner of Azcarraga and Sta. Rosa Streets. This was followed by It Theater on Carriedo in the late 1900s and the Metropolitan Theater fronting Quiapo Church in the 1920s. In the 1940s, Quiapo had two air-conditioned theaters, Times Theater, which showed American movies, and Life Theater, which showcased Tagalog movies. …That in August 21, 1971, during the Liberal Party’s proclamation rally for its senatorial lineup, two hand grenades exploded in Plaza Miranda, killing nine people and seriously injuring many others. This incident paved the way for President Ferdinand E. Marcos’ declaration of Martial Law on September 21, 1972.

…That Quiapo Church is known by two other names—Saint John de Baptist Church and the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazerene. ….That there are two images of the Nazareno. The original Black Nazarene commands the church from the high altar while a replica was created for processions due to damage caused by these public outings. The substitutions were made by Narciso Maglaqui, a sculptor who runs a shop at the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista. …That the Black Nazarene is also referred to as “Nuestro Padre Jesus Nazareno,” “Jesus Nazareno de Quiapo,” and “Señor”. …That the Nazareno is only brought out for procession on two occasions—its Feast Day (January 9th) and Good Friday. …That Quiapo is known as the center of Manila. All roads going to the north or south pass through here, hence its title “The heart of Manila.”

PASAY CITY

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The Manila Hotel is the oldest premiere hotel in the Philippines, which was built in 1909 and opened in 1912. It has then serviced many illustrious local and foreign personalities such as author Ernest Hemingway, former US President John F. Kennedy, and music icons Michael Jackson and The Beatles. It continues to be one of the grandest hotels in the country, boasting of its excellent service and amenities grounded with a Filipino flair.

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Known as The Walled City during the Spanish era, the Intramuros used to be the seat of government and home to many officials and elite during that time. Today, parts of Intramuros are preserved as heritage sites.

Designed in 1935 by Juan Guzman Arellano, the Metropolitan Theatre or the “Met” is one of the notable art deco buildings in Manila. With sculptures on the façade from Francesco Riccardo Monti, the Met used to be the premier venue for theater and other performing arts in the metro. It has then deteriorated into a dilapidated and abandoned structure, with the city of Manila and other heritage preservation groups pushing for its renovation. .

Designed in 1918 by the American architect Daniel Burnham, the National Museum of the Philippines continues to be the patron of the countryʼs cultural heritage. It is located next to Rizal Park and near Intramuros. The museum houses artworks and artifacts dating back from the tribal Aetaʼs to the present, with Juan Lunaʼs Spoliarium at the main ground floor gallery as one of the most notable Philippine masterpiece.

FROM QUEZON CITY Commute: Most major thoroughfares in Quezon City have public transportation routes going to Quiapo. From the Quezon City Hall/ Memorial City, take a bus/ jeep/ FX that has a sign going to Taft or Quiapo.

QC City Hall to Quiapo: 30 mins. on lean hours, one hour or more on workdays and rush hours, especially Fridays By By By By

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QUIAPO

One of the biggest public parks in the metro, the Quezon City Memorial Circle holds the monument former President Manuel L. Quezon is interred. The monument, encased in marble is one of the highest towering structures in the city, enclosed by the 2 kilometer Quezon City Circle which spans six of the major thoroughfares in the city.

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11 11 The Quiapo Church is one of the most popular churches in Manila, drawing close to a million devotees every year for the Feast of the Black Nazarene. An often-told story among devotees is how the statue remained intact during the Japanese Occupation even as the whole Quiapo Church burned down to the ground.

Noted for its architecture, the San Sebastian Church is one of the few Gothic churches in the country and the only all-steel church in Asia. The church was designed by Gustave Eiffel, a renowned French structural engineer and architect famous for designing the Eiffel Tower and the armature for the Statue of Liberty in New York.

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The Ninoy Aquino International Airport currently services all international flights to and from Manila. The airport was named after Ninoy Aquino, whose assasination in 1982 sparked the 1986 People Power Revolution. This event ousted former dictator Ferdinand E. Marcos and put Cory Aquino as the Philippines’ first woman president.

02 First used in the country by American soldiers during the WWII, the jeepney has evolved into the most utilized public transportation vehicle in the Philippines.

With its colorful exterior and unique designs and relatively cheaper fare than buses and cabs, the jeep is a true Filipino icon.

03 The city's mass rail transport system carries millions of passengers everyday.

Now having three major lines, it spans the major thoroughfares in the city: Taft Avenue, EDSA (Epifanio Delos Santos Avenue) and Aurora Boulevard.

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The University of Santo Tomas is the oldest university in Asia, existing for almost 400 years. This has made the university very rich in history harking back to the Spanish colonial rule, with the national hero Jose Rizal studying here before moving to the Madrid Central University to complete his studies.

Built in 1948 by the city architect Luciano V. Aquino, the Welcome Rotonda serves as a gateway and marker between Quezon City and Manila. Built by the Rotary Club of Manila, it is now a popular venue for rallies and demonstrations because of its strategic location.

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The Black Nazarene has been in the country for a little over 400 years. It was entrusted to a Recollect priest and was brought onboard a galleon from Mexico to Manila in the early 1600s. The ship caught fire at some point during the voyage, damaging the Nazareno and causing its dark brown color to turn even darker.

By Jeep – PhP 12 (from airport road to Baclaran), PhP 20 (from Baclaran to Quiapo)

By Bus – PhP 15 (from airport road to Baclaran)

By Taxi – PhP500 (airport cab service flat rate for Manila area)

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FROM AIRPORT Commute: The easiest way to get to Quiapo from the airport is through a cab since one has to walk a considerable amount from the airport to the main road where public transportation ply. If one wants to try commuting, take a bus or jeep to Baclaran or Roxas Boulevard and ride a bus/ jeep/ FX going to Quiapo.

Quezon Avenue Gil Puyat Station

FX - PhP 25 Jeepney – PhP 16 Bus – PhP 20 Taxi – PhP 150++

By Bus – PhP 15 (from Ayala to Taft)

By FX – PhP 20 (from Taft to Quiapo)

By Taxi – PhP 150++

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FROM MAKATI Commute: Take a bus bound for LRT-Leveriza (this passes along Ayala Ave.) Alight the bus when you get to Taft Ave. and ride an FX or jeep going to Quiapo Travel Time: The travel time takes 30 to 45 minutes on lean days and more than an hour during workdays and rush hours

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Built during the 1930ʼs to replace the aging Colgante Bridge, the Quezon Bridge is an art-deco inspired suspension bridge that connects the district of Quiapo to Ermita over the Pasig River. The bridge was also rumored to have been designed by Gustave Eiffel.

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By: Kristina Rita and Joan Soro Art by: Paul Joseph Blasco

Rizal Park or Luneta is where Dr. Jose Rizal was executed in 1896.

To commemorate his death, a statue was built on the spot where he was executed. This statue is one of the most identfiable landmarks in Manila.

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The De La Salle – College of Saint Benilde School of Design and Arts Building (CSB-SDA) sets the standards high and asymmetrical

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SUPER WORLD EDIFICE 87

By: Edson Cabalfin Photos by: Tristan Granados

Places

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f you happen to be strolling or driving from Taft Avenue and find yourself along Pablo Ocampo Street (formerly Vito Cruz), you simply cannot miss the new, sexy, and gleaming De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde School of Design and Arts building (CSB-SDA). It’s quite difficult to ignore the towering 14-storey structure looming over neighboring low-level houses and buildings. Cruising (or getting stuck in traffic) alongside nearby streets provides glimpses of the clean, antiseptic-white façade standing in stark contrast with the grays and browns of the adjacent buildings. At night, its Japanese lantern-like structure provides a hauntingly beautiful glow set against the dark Manila skyline. It stands out like a beacon or, as others have described it, “a pregnant building hovering above the neighborhood.”

The CSB-SDA building WAS intended to stand out. Architect Ed Calma, the designer of the structure, wanted the school to be the embodiment of DLS-CSB’s vision and commitment to “dynamic and innovative learning.” This meant the adaptation of an architectural language that challenges the traditional. In the context of the De La Salle University System, “traditional” refers to the Neo-classical style first used by Tomas Mapua for the school’s academic buildings in the 1930s. Calma made a conscious effort to veer away from the Greco-Roman language of post and lintel. He instead presented the building as a dynamic form of folded and fragmented surfaces.

Even from the street, the drama that is the CSB-SDA building immediately unfolds. Strips of concrete peel away from the driveway and create a natural separation between the entryway and exit of the site. Much like bands of carpet unraveling, the concrete fingers from the street level motion the pedestrian into the lobby where a cathedral-height space greets visitors. The undulating and folding slivers continue to weave in and out of the spaces. At one point, they appear in the interior of the chapel on the upper mezzanine floor. The ribbons create an intimate space, almost cavern-like in emotion, similar to the intimacy crafted in the erstwhile R12 restaurant in Makati City that Ed Calma also designed a couple of years ago. Translated to a larger structure, the layers of warping strips and planes have become the leitmotif found not only in the SDA building but in Calma’s other design projects as well.

In contrast to the intimate chapel space, the theater cantilevers off from the face of the building. Slips meld and fold over the theater’s considerable dimensions, enveloping the space within a skin of aluminum cladding. Jutting out of the building, the weight of the theater is held back by the aluminum casing that embraces it.

Carrying the overall theme of the SDA building, the matte-finished metal covering begins to peel away from the uppermost portion of the theater as ribbons of metal cover the top of the building. As the metal strips vary in movement and folding, they are flanked by slits of glass that create opportunities for sunlight to pierce through the opaque skin.

The dramatic building gesture creates a statement that makes passersby look and glance at the giant building.

The sloping open space serves as a drop-off area, and an informal gathering place, while the portruding volumes provide texture as well as objects for seating.

In the upper floors, folding is on display, particularly on the walls and ceilings of the classrooms and corridors. Warping around the classroom spaces are origami-like planes with irregular splinters of solid and transparent surfaces. As the walls are skewed and slanted, odd spaces appear between the shards with some that serve the purpose of viewing windows into the classrooms or clerestory windows on top of the walls.

At times, the walls disengage from the ceiling and become solid parts that meld into transparent glass panels. In other cases, the walls seem to simply blend in and become the ceiling whose planes are also skewed and twisted. At first glance, the stark whiteness of the ceiling seems rather severe. Upon closer inspection, the changing folds and fragments of the ceiling planes create variations and patterns through the interchange of light and shadow. In an almost chiaroscuro effect, the deviations of shade among the fragmented planes create depth and interest in a predominantly pallid environment.

Walking along the corridors and classrooms can make one feel both energized and perturbed. The volumes created within are unexpected and unpredictable. As every floor features a different configuration, the experience for each level is not necessarily the same. The somewhat erratic nature of the planes gives off a sense of uneasiness. The jagged edges and acute angles present a challenge whenever furniture is introduced into the rooms. The spaces create a sense of excitement and stimulation while exuding tension and anxiousness at the same time.

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SUPER WORLD EDIFICE One cannot simply help but wonder if architect Ed Calma was indeed transposing the same energy that can be found in the chaos of Manila’s streets but re-interpreted in a sterilized manner. Just imagine the twisting, warping, and layering of galvanized iron and plywood sheets found among houses of informal settlers or the richness of volumes, planes, and geometries in Manila but, for this context, organized and sanitized.

If the other neo-classical buildings of De La Salle University project its formality and virility, the SDA building distinguishes itself in the system by celebrating the robustness and vibrancy of the design school. With its beginnings as a community college back in 1980, the College of Saint Benilde has evolved into a progressive and innovative educational institution that offers courses not normally found in other more established universities and colleges. A relatively young design school, CSB’s School of Design and Arts has proven to be at the forefront of Philippine design in recent years. Ed Calma’s fresh take on institutional architecture reflects the kind of forward-thinking outlook and strong-willed leadership necessary in design and art education.

By: Edson Cabalfin Photos by: Tristan Granados

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The folding gestures become the canopy of the drop off at the facade providing drama to the entry experience.

But what do people say about the building?

Is it really progressive or too radical for a layman’s taste? Opened a little over a year ago, the SDA building has created quite a stir on several fronts.

In the architectural scene, the building has become a landmark in Manila.

Residents of the surrounding neighborhoods complained about the dust and noise emanating from the building during its construction. Sisters at St. Scholastica’s College, a stone’s throw away from CSB-SDA, were and are still not particularly happy with the large, overbearing shadow cast by the building. They say that the sun has been taken away from them. In other respects, the design school has become a popular point of discussion among architects. Some of them appreciate and understand the building and its complexities while others do not share their enthusiasm. On the other hand, architecture students are enthralled by the audacity of its design and have found themselves instantly inspired.

For students, faculty, and staff who use the SDA building everyday, the experience is different. Some have taken a liking to it and enjoy the creative treatment of space and form. Still others see the faults and shortcomings of the design. There have been complaints about the slow speed of elevators, the distracting glare caused by the glass walls, and the unexpected flooding in the corridors during a typhoon due to the open glass louvers. One can understand though, that as users they have an intimate relationship with the building. As daily albeit temporary residents of the building, they tend to see the day-to-day operations. This makes it possible for them to immediately distinguish what is good and not-so-good about it. Unlike a piece of sculpture that can be viewed and appreciated from a distance, architecture needs to be experienced inside and out by the individual.

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By: Edson Cabalfin Photos by: Tristan Granados

The whitewashed atrium is seen from the lobby, and partially from the street level.

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The skylight atrium in the second lobby bathes the space in natural light.

By: Edson Cabalfin Photos by: Tristan Granados

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While there seems to be no consensus on the CSB-SDA building, what is sure is that people have extreme opinions about it—they either love it or hate it.

Nonetheless, the design school has attracted more students to its fold as evidenced by the increase of the student population and the broadening of its program offerings. If the school wanted a design icon that stands out then they definitely got what they were hoping for. Not only does it protrude from its base with a certain air of arrogance and dramatically set itself apart from the other DLSU and CSB buildings but it could prove to be a mighty tough act for other universities and colleges to follow given its hefty price tag

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(reportedly P1.4 billion for the building shell alone). The urban fabric around the Malate area has invariably changed thanks to this soaring edifice. Will this serve as a catalyst for the urban renewal that Manila so urgently needs or does it set a precedent for future zoning regulations in the city?

Though one cannot immediately say how the design will set the tone for future architectural designs in the Philippines, it has truly set a new standard in the Philippine architectural field. Much like its folding and warping planes, the CSB-SDA provides a new twist to the never-ending and highly unpredictable drama that is Philippine architecture.

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THE ART OF WAR

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onored as the very first National Artist in Painting shortly after his death in 1972, Fernando Cueto Amorsolo remains one of the most celebrated Filipino artists of our time. Recognized for his depictions of life in the countryside, he is perhaps best known for his backlighting technique. He was able to distinctly capture the warmth of the sunlight when painting the Philippine countryside which eventually became known as the “Amorsolo Lighting”.

This year, the Amorsolo Retrospective Committee launched an unprecedented series of exhibits entitled “His Art, Our Heart”, showcasing different Amorsolo collections. The exhibits run in seven museums, each having a different theme of the Amorsolo collection. Of the seven museums in the exhibit series, the Jorge Vargas Museum and Filipiniana Research Center is the only university museum participating with the theme: “Capturing Anxieties: Amorsolo, His Contemporaries, and Pictures of the War”. All paintings in the Vargas Museum are from the years of Japanese occupation (1941-1945), a particularly tumultuous time in the country’s history. A departure from Amorsolo’s idyllic pastoral scenes that people are more familiar with, the exhibit highlights the contrast between the idealistic Philippine setting the Japanese invaders wanted to portray, as opposed to the gruesome realities of war.

Losing their jobs during the war, Fernando Amorsolo and his fellow art teachers acceded to the Japanese forces by painting scenes of peaceful Filipino life as a part of the Japanese propaganda of championing the Eastern way of life. Some of these pieces were commissioned by Vargas himself, as a way of supporting Amorsolo as a friend and artist. Some of the notable works This page, clockwise from top left: The Bombing of the Independencia (1942); Rizal Avenue on Fire (1945) San Sebastian Church Through Quiapo Ruins (1945) Opposite page, counter-clockwise from top right: The Amorsolo Collection Gallery at the UP Vargas Museum Harvest Scene (1942); Rice Planting (1943); Fishing Scene (1942)

SUPER WORLD GALLERY include: “Harvest Scene” (1942), “Rice Planting” (1943), and “Fishing Scene” (1942). Hoping to capture the reality of the situation in the Philippines during that time, Amorsolo painted several pieces which are as gripping and powerful as actual photographs in showing the assault on the Philippines during World War II.

Dark and ominous, Amorsolo captures the onslaught of attacks on a harbor town in “The Bombing of the Independencia” (1942). Other notable pieces which show the nation’s capital in various stages of ruin during the Battle for the Liberation of Manila are: “Ruins of the Manila Cathedral” (1945), “Rizal Avenue on Fire” (1945), and “San Sebastian Church through Quiapo Ruins” (1945). These paintings vividly capture the devastation of the Japanese invasion and make the horrors of war all the more real to the observer. Juxtaposed with the paintings of rustic scenes of locals in the countryside, one gets a clearer picture of the ironies and paradoxes of the war, where the realities of ruin are masked with images of tranquility and progress.

Aside from the artwork, the exhibit also draws strength from the archival materials drawn from the collection of Mr. Jorge Vargas. This provides the audience with the sense of the milieu under which the paintings are exhibited.

Some notable memorabilia include the declaration of loyalty to the Japanese government signed by several Filipino government officials at that time; the program and invitation to Jose P. Laurel’s inauguration; and a headline page from the Tribune in December 1941, just as the Japanese forces were starting to raid areas in the South Pacific.

Also showcased in the exhibit are some masterpieces from Amorsolo’s contemporaries during the Japanese’s occupation of the Philippines. Among these is an early piece by Vicente Manansala during his days as an art student.

It is interesting to note that the technique used by Manansala in the said piece is more modernist and very different from his technique of transparent cubism of which he was later more known for.

Times of war have brought out different facets of the human condition, not the least of which expressed through art. The Japanese Occupation may be long over in Philippine history but the lessons this period has taught us should not be forgotten, as the reality of war continues to be prevalent even today.

They did not wield artillery yet Fernando Amorsolo and his contemporaries used their art as a weapon; not for destruction, but to bring awareness and insight into the plight of those most affected by war. •

By: Kristina L. Rita Photos by: Pat Mateo

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Haute

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Philippine fashion frontrunners showcase their design masterpieces that speak of modernity

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Laced ball gown with cinched waist leather belt, Randy Ortiz earrings, Arnel Papa

Styling: Rex Atienza Model: Veronica Popova of Faze/Chameleon Modelling Agency Makeupupby:by: Bobby Carlos of Make up Forever John Valle of L`oreal Professionnel Make Bobby Carlos of Make up Foerver Hair by: JohnHair Valleby: of L`oreal Professionnel

Photography: Sara Black

Photography: Sara Black Styling: Rex Atienza

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Opposite page: Capiz shell dress with detachable zip tail, Puey Qui単ones earrings, Arnel Papa This page: Linen short dress with cutout shoulder embelishment, gloves, Joey Samson earrings, ring, Arnel Papa

Styling: Rex Atienza Model: Veronica Popova of Faze/Chameleon Modelling Agency Makeupupby:by: Bobby Carlos of Make up Forever John Valle of L`oreal Professionnel Make Bobby Carlos of Make up Foerver Hair by: JohnHair Valleby: of L`oreal Professionnel

Photography: Sara Black

Photography: Sara Black Styling: Rex Atienza

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Opposite page: Jersey gown with cowl back, Louis Claparols; earrings, Arnel Papa This page: Jersey dress with shawl, Jun Escario; earrings, Arnel Papa; shoes, Gaupo

Styling: Rex Atienza Model: Veronica Popova of Faze/Chameleon Modelling Agency Makeupupby:by: Bobby Carlos of Make up Forever John Valle of L`oreal Professionnel Make Bobby Carlos of Make up Foerver Hair by: JohnHair Valleby: of L`oreal Professionnel

Photography: Sara Black

Photography: Sara Black Styling: Rex Atienza

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Photography: Sara Black Make up by: Bobby Carlos of Make up Forever

Styling: Rex Atienza Model: Veronica Popova of Faze/Chameleon Modelling Agency Hair by: John Valle of L`oreal Professionnel Fashion Interpretation

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Textured dress with fringes and cutout bolero, Vic Barba; earrings, Arnel Papa

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Available in all SM Department Stores Make up by: Bobby Carlos of Make up Foerver Hair by: John Valle of L`oreal Professionnel

Photography: Sara Black Styling: Rex Atienza

Fashion Interpretation

HOTSPOTS TWO NEW STORES REDEFINE THE PHRASE “SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP” IN GREENBELT 5. tsuper

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here couldn’t be a better home for Balenciaga’s flagship store in the Philipines than Greenbelt 5. Located at the ground floor and nestled among other luxury brands, the store carries Balenciaga’s famous and drool-worthy bags, clothing, and jewelry, and other accessories. Its interiors are much like its clothes: posh and futuristic, which are designed by no less than Nicolas Ghesquiere, Thomas Powell, and Dominique Gonzales-Foerstier.

Founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga whose pieces were sought after by Spanish royalty, the first shop was opened in 1914. Almost a hundred years later, shopping at the House of Balenciaga is on the to-do list of every fashion devotee’s. Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière brings in an avant-garde taste to the collections and says of the Spring/ Summer 2009 ready-to-wear collection that he played with “textures to see how they reflect or absorb light,” during an interview by Sarah Mower for Style.com. He also says that the current collection showcases the different finishes of matte and shine, evident in the metallic jackets and suede pieces that were seen on the runway.

More and more Filipinos have become style and designer conscious seen in the rise of fashion blogs and bloggers and readers’ praises and criticisms. Perhaps it’s just perfecttiming for the luxury brand of Balenciaga to finally to grace the Philippine shores. Bring out the plastic, people!

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Text by: Ronna Capili Photos by: Owee Salva and Shaira Luna

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wo floors filled with select fashion, beauty, home, and travel items which also include a cafe and flower shop is luxury shopping haven Adora. Located at Greenbelt 5, the newly opened department store of both local and international finds may deceive shoppers and prospective buyers with its chandeliers, velvet curtains, and even certain brands it carries (such as Lanvin, Chloe, and Givenchy), of being just another luxury boutique for those who do not experience the economy crisis. But Adora was evidently built for the intelligent shopper, having a mix of high-end brands and smaller foreign brands from neighboring Asian countries. The store exhibits the value it has placed on “a good buy” over the “designer item.”

The store’s name comes from the French phrase for “I love,” and who wouldn’t love it? With beautiful and fine interiors, shopping or even just picking up an item or two becomes such a pleasing experience. The Adora staff are trained to assist buyers at any section, and the merchandise are lovingly hand-picked to offer quality. Other fashion brands available at Adora are Marni, Jill Sander, Missoni, Superfine, and Etro, while VMV, Skeen, Sheerin O’kho, and Becca are just a few of the beauty brands it carries. It also retails the famed jewelry line H. Stern. But again, don’t let yourself be fooled, as the store carries locally made mid-ranged bags and clutches which supports the local retail industry and designers. Apart from its genuine approach to the beloved pastime shopping (merchandise that’s already been sifted through to ensure good buys? Superb!), Adora’s consciousness in reviving the joys of buying well-crafted items matched with the deluxe interiors for the luxurious shopping experience is a fashion statement all on its own.

Peony Delights Waterfront Pavillion Hotel and Casino Manila’s newest resto offers an Asian-inspired fare with unique twists

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look while making sure the hotel’s original architecture was left intact thus preserving its rich history and old-world appeal.

Complementing the hotel’s new look and design is its unmatched dedication to exceptional service and style. Peony Garden is part of the hotel’s choice selection of fine dining restaurants. With a sitting capacity of 100 people, Peony Garden is perfect for small intimate gatherings with its three extendable function rooms: the Sunflower Room, the Peach Room and the Lotus Room, accommodating 15, 12 and 10 persons, respectively. Ceramic vases, metal plates in gold, silver, and brass color schemes, and rose-colored glass chandeliers adorn the rooms, giving them a unique oriental feel.

“While most Chinese restaurants in the metro serve Cantonese food, we opted to specialize in Malaysian-Singaporean cuisine,” said Chef Lee Yan Feng, executive chef of Peony Garden. Indeed, the restaurant’s succulent Duck Shrimp Salad Kerin is a gastronomic delight with fruit cocktail at the bottom and toppings of cherries and a secret salad sauce specially prepared by Chef Lee. Thai Shek Chicken, one of Malaysia’s comfort foods, is breaded chicken fillet with a twist, while the slightly spicy Prawns Butter and Egg consists of prawns sautéed

in butter and milk with chopped lemon grass and cayenne. The Deep Fried Taro Ring is comprised of mashed taro leaves formed into a ring then deep-fried and topped with different flavors. “I like mixing different ingredients in the kitchen to produce new and unique dishes so people have choices,” confessed Chef Lee, who was originally assigned to the Waterfront Hotel in Cebu for four years before transferring to the Manila Pavilion three years ago.

“All year ‘round, the hotel is almost fully booked,” says Angela Isidro, Manila Pavilion’s Marketing Communications Manager.

“Japanese, Koreans, and Filipinos comprise most of our clientele and we’re glad to say, they always come back.” This is indeed a testament to the hotel’s unparalleled commitment to excellent service and style.

The Waterfront Pavillion Hotel and Casino Manila’s opulent and historical journey partnered with Waterfront Philippines Inc.’s dynamic management makes its guests want to return time and again. While it may have gone through its fair share of changes since its launch 40 years ago, the Manila Pavilion has retained an essential component that makes it continue to be one of the very best in the hotel industry—real people who want to give visitors real pleasure. •

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pumpkin Seafood Thick Soup, Thai Shek Chicken, and Prawn Butter and Egg

PREVIOUS PAGE: The Lotus Room can accommodate 10-12 people and is ideal for intimate gatherings and meetings.

Photos by: Richie Lazaro

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ituated within the heart of Ermita, the Waterfront Paviliion Hotel and Casino Manila is a five-star hotel that boasts of history and style. Originally known as Manila Hilton International way back in 1968, it was home to many visiting celebrities like boxing legend Muhammad Ali, The Jackson 5, Matt Monroe, and our very own 1969 Ms. Universe, Gloria Diaz. In fact, during its inauguration, Conrad Hilton of the Hilton chain of hotels was present to celebrate the event with then-First Couple Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos.

Between the late 60s and early 70s the Manila Hilton was the place to be for midday fashion shows. It also played host to the 17th FAMAS Awards in 1969 when it was considered Asia’s most modern hotel and Manila’s tallest building.

In 1988, Acesite (Philippines) Hotel Corporation acquired Manila Hilton and renamed the hotel Manila Pavilion. Seven years later, it was christened Holiday Inn Manila when Bass Hotels was commissioned to manage the hotel. Finally, its name was reverted to Manila Pavilion in 2003 and joined the prestigious roster of Waterfront Philippines, Inc. a year later. Soon after, renovations were initiated to create a cozier atmosphere. Guestrooms were redesigned and given a more contemporary

Mezze Plate

Homemade Angus Beef Burger

tsatsiki, baba ganoosh with feta and mint, creamy beetroot and spiced carrot with warm pita Php560

with gruyere, onion relish and chips Php560

Italian Seafood Stew with prawns, clams, scallops and white fish Php780

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ho says you need to get on a plane and travel oh-so-many miles when you have a yearning for a taste of Europe? You simply need to do a hop, a skip, and a jump on over to Makati City and there’ll you’ll find a gem of a place called Sala Bistro.

Consistently prepared European comfort food is what Sala Bistro is all about. The dishes speak for themselves and in a language that is familiar but truly memorable. Food presentation is simple and straightforward. The taste of the food does not require any preservatives or additional condiments to define its character.

This is Sala Bistro’s promise, as guaranteed

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by one of Manila’s most respected chefs, Chef Carlo Miguel, and by a ten-year heritage of providing premium quality food.

In early 2000, Eastwood, The Fort, and Greenbelt were developed and soon became the places where your palette could be thoroughly satisfied while still being able to be seen and noticed. These hubs decentralized the restaurant and gimmick places in the metro and forced Malate out of the foodie scene.

One of the “casualties” of this change in the food and dining landscape was Sala, the longest running fine dining restaurant in the Malate area until it closed its doors in April

2007. Lucky for food lovers everywhere, Sala was brought back to life in August of the same year. It replaced the popular Lumiére at the Podium Level of the Locsin Building, Ayala Avenue corner Makati Avenue. Soon after, Sala Bistro was born in Greenbelt 3, providing Makati regulars a casual yet elegant dining place.

Patrons can enjoy the Sala Bistro all-time favorite, garlicky portabella mushrooms on toast with goat cheese. You simply allow your taste buds to regale at the savory mushrooms with a hint of truffle oil. Another must-try is the Angus all-beef burger that offers pure premium ground beef without extenders—a rare find in

pancetta and bread salad with soft poached egg Php390

Garlicky portabella mushrooms

Fresh berry and merinque sundae

on toast with goat’s cheese Php490

Php320

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Roast Asparagus

green pea cream and tomato salsa Php390

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today’s fastfood burger-dominated world.

For appetizers, the mezzé plate of tsatziki, babaganoush with feta cheese and mint, creamy beetroot, and spiced carrots palatably demonstrate the flavors of the ingredients and herbs imported from Australia. End your meal with the strawberry sundae made from homemade ice cream and fresh strawberries.

Definitely worth making room for!

Sala Bistro’s drink-all-you-can champagne event, Champagne Jazz Brunch, offers an alternative to the wine and dine staple. Enjoy conversations with Kir Royal in hand, a champagne drink with a touch of sweetness

from the black currant-flavored liqueur Crème de Cassis, and a scrumptious egg course meal.

There’s nothing like a little bubbly at lunchtime!

With remarkable interiors by famed Anton Mendoza, Sala Bistro has finally found its true home in Greenbelt 3. It is here, in a community with the right blend of work and play, that Sala Bistro mixes its own following, defining a legacy within the foodie and yuppie communities in the metro.

Sala Bistro is located at the Ground Floor, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center, Makati City.

Reservations can be made by calling (02)7297500.

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By: Anton Diaz Photos by: Jo Chua

World of Taste

Salmon fishcake

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By: Anton Diaz Photos by: Jo Chua

Above: Chef Carlo Miguel Right: Interior of Sala Bistro in Greenbelt 3

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argain-hunting is probably the next best thing to window-shopping in a country that finds itself in the midst of an economic crisis. Ukayukays in Baguio and throughout the city, cheap finds by the dozen in 168 and Divisoria—these days, any place tagged as a bargain hotspot will definitely find itself awash with budget-conscious shopaholics. And now, the Dapitan Arcade can be added to the list of must-shop locations.

Found at the corners of Dapitan and Kanlaon Streets, Dapitan Arcade is a treasure trove of a flea market with over 50 unmarked stalls selling native handicrafts and wares of export quality.

One of the most predominantly sold merchandise at the arcade is ceramic wares of varying sizes and shapes. Virgilio Lanuza of Stalls 38-39 has been selling ceramic plates resembling banana leaves (price starts at P300) as well as ceramic balls, similar to those that once graced the cover of Home and Décor magazine, and other decorative ceramics for 11 years.

Boy Bilas of Stall 41 sells kitschy ceramic cookie jars and dinner plates, priced at P400 and P60 and above, respectively, and laments that most, if not all, the ceramics are export overruns from China since Philippinemade ceramics have become more expensive to produce. Stall 1-2’s Jun Hamiro showed us his bargain deal of three-for- P100 fine porcelain leaf-shaped sauce plates, also from China. He pointed out the difference between ceramic and porcelain, with porcelain being the more delicate, finer-finished “breakable”. You can easily walk away with a dozen new plates for your home with a budget of P1,000.

On the other side of the arcade is the corner stall of Carmen Manalo. She sells beautiful hand-carved woodenware made from acacia hardwood in Laguna. Acacia is also known as the “Hardwood of the South Pacific” and it doesn’t absorb stains and odors, making it perfect for use as salad bowls.

A small round bowl is priced at P20 only while a larger one is pegged at P250. All this woodenware is of export quality and is actually sold overseas anywhere from P135 for the small round bowl to about P2,800 for the large serving bowl.

Furniture and decorative arts made from wrought iron are also sold in Dapitan Arcade. You could conceivably start a chair-rental business by placing an order for Tiffany-style gilt chairs which go for P650 each at Stalls 36-37. Large birdcages for the avian lover begin at P1,500; Note that similar cages would sell for over P5,000 at home stores found in popular malls. The wrought-iron workshop is located in Apalit, Pampanga but some of the smaller tables with marble countertops are given a fresh coat of gold paint in the very stalls.

Then there is the plethora of woven products—Yakan-woven table runners, crates made from sea grass, varnished wicker baskets, native woven shopping bags, and banig mats. A two-meter-long Yakan cloth table runner sells for P750. It may seem a tad “pricier” compared to regular table runners but these are made by the Yakan Tribes, known for their

By: Ingrid Chua-Go Photos by: Richie Lazaro

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fine, “tight”, and very intricate weaves. It can take weeks to finish a meter of weaved cloth and each finished product is like a work of art; the asking price is definitely justified.

The seagrass crates would be perfect as magazine racks or even as “organic” laundry baskets. Wicker baskets, which are “calibrated” for proper weave spacing by Beth Sison of Stall 21, are reasonably priced at P50 each. The banig mats, made in Bicol, cost between P280 and P350. Intricately woven banig bags are priced from P150 to P450. The tourists who visit Dapitan are said to be fond of buying these bags to take back with them as souvenirs from the Philippines.

Outdoor decor fills one side of Dapitan Arcade’s perimeter.

Decorative water

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fountains, gnomes (even life-sized ones), stained glass lamps, in addition to mosaic tower lamps, are all yours for the taking. In one of the stalls facing the street, we also found an army of small resin votive candleholders shaped as cherubs and dancing couples.

These are great as mood lights for outdoor weddings; they can be placed on walkways or tabletops along with floral centerpieces.

Each candleholder costs P35 and is made in Manila. In the neighboring stall, you will find “memories of the sea”—all packed in a bag! Seashells of different colors, sizes, and shapes are festooned into wind chimes and other products. For the accessory lover, a good way to prevent those small accessories from getting lost is by getting an accessories

“tree”, which is sold in Stall 7. They cost P250 and up, depending on how intricate and large you want the “tree” to be.

Whether it’s for your home or for that new business you’re thinking of starting, there really is something for everyone at the Dapitan Arcade. This bargain shopper’s paradise is brimming with fabulous finds that you can work with, give away as gifts, or even resell. While business can be slow during the months of January to July, it begins to pick up come the “-ber” months so it’s a good idea to head on over there before the crush of holiday shoppers fill the arcade. But, if you’re considering braving the Christmas shopping mob, just think, “the more, the merrier!”

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SHOPPINGTIPS:

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1. Wear light and airy clothing. Dapitan Arcade may be an indoor market but there is no air-conditioning available.

2. Be prepared to spend—it’s difficult to walk away with nothing in tow! Bring cash as there are no ATMs around.

3. Bring a friend along. It’s always more fun to go shopping with a fellow bargain hunter.

4. Haggle—but not too much. You want to help these merchants make some money too!

By: Ingrid Chua-Go Photos by: Richie Lazaro

5. Do a walkabout around the arcade before you start making purchases. That way, you know you covered all your bases!

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By: Guji Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo Photos by:Lorenzana Jake Verzosa

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or generations, the toy has not only been a pastime for children and the child at heart but many have also become valuable collector’s items. Toys have represented cultural diversity, satirical ideas, icons, and simply—amusement. In recent times, toys created by world-renowned artists have crossed over to become widely sought out collector’s items and art pieces right here on Philippine shores, giving the Philippines an edge on what’s hot while being one of Southeast Asia’s premiere places to seek exclusive finds.

FreshManila is one Philippine novelty store creating a worldwide buzz with their array of designer vinyl toys, bringing a new lifestyle that people worldwide can appreciate. In May of 2007, co-founder “Big Boy” (Christian Cheng) had an idea that the figurative art collector sub-culture in the Philippines needed an outlet for its growing passion. But it wasn’t until his close friends and family, namely, “Alvin” (Alvin Yap), “Tiu” (John Tiu), and “Rey” (Rey Sanchez), decided to actively participate in its creation that the idea of FreshManila came to life.

Since then, this small toy store has become successful, not only in selling their urban toys, but in introducing a new lifestyle to a mainstream market.

Located in a small outskirt of Quezon City, FreshManila has remained very popular amongst the public and has customers coming in from all over the world. “Most of our customers are toy collectors, art lovers, or people who are just simply intrigued with something Fresh,” states Big Boy.

“Within only a year, FreshManila has been able to stay Fresh,” according to store manager Nicca Arboleda. “We come up with ideas spontaneously and then conceptualize what toys to sell next. We don’t just sell these toys to our customers, we also inform them about the art behind these figures—from the background of the artists who created the collectibles, to the value of money the customer will get from the purchase.”

1 Mediacom Toy and All Around Music Japan created Elvis Bearbrick for the King of Rock and Roll’s 30th death anniversary last Aug 17, 2007. The Black and White ‘Flash’ Bear

by Eley Kishimoto 2 Mini tofu from Japanese designers Devil Robots 3 Flip Madl of MAD Toy Design paid tribute to the Philippines by creating this signature design.

4 Rody Horse is not just a collectible toy manufactured by Gymnic in Italy, therapists use it to aid children in developing their skills in language, memory, jumping, and running.

5 Dexter, Silver Aubrie (a Philippine exclusive), and Beaumont from “The Scavengers” series by Katie Olivas. There were only 90 pieces launched in the Philippines last August 16, 2008 with an initial price of P600. The toy is now being sold on the internet for US$100.

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By: Guji Lorenzana Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo

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FreshManila admits that their popularity has a lot to do with the internet. “If it wasn’t for the internet and word of mouth, we wouldn’t be here,” states Arboleda. “Madami kami nakikilala na talagang todo suporta s’amin and what we bring.” These toys are obviously more than just a fad.

One of the most sought-after FreshManila items is the Puto. The Puto toy, created by Huck Gee, was launched this past February in collaboration with FreshManila and HobbyMaster2003. Huck Gee (www.huckgee.com) is a world-renowned artist who creates clothing lines and toys in the United States. Inspired by his love for the Philippines and its culture, this cute, bronze figure stands at about seven to eight inches tall with only 100 pieces made available here and abroad. In FreshManila alone, the Puto remains one of the biggest sellers in its history. According to Big Boy, “The Puto toy was [sic] definitely a successful toy [sic] launch! An hour and a half into the toy launching and signing, it became [sic] SOLD OUT na!”

With more ideas coming Fresh out of the minds of Big Boy and his team, the Philippines is definitely in store for something great. With future plans of expanding their flagship store and online ordering now available at www.freshmanila. com, FreshManila definitely envisions an even brighter future for itself and the vinyl toy market. In its vision to make more people aware about the lifestyle of toy collecting, it continues to pursue its dream to make their toys available, not just to fellow Filipinos, but to the rest of world as well.

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You can check out what’s Fresh at <www.freshmanila. com> or <freshmanila.multiply.com> or visit their blog at <freshmanila.blogspot.com>. Go on over to <www.huckgee. com> and see what Huck Gee and his creative mind are up to now. For those who want to be up close and personal with FreshManila’s vinyl beauties and cuties, you can head on over to their store at 5 Sgt. Esguerra St. South Triangle, Quezon City or call (02)412-8786.

By: Guji Lorenzana Photos by: Jovel Lorenzo

Huck Gee designed this Puto Barrel Man (Red Chase version), which was limited to 20 pieces worldwide.

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Lagalag’s Voyage Home

By: Grace Pastorfide Photos by: Pat Mateo

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ilipinos are known for their resilient character, adapting to circumstances that others have failed in miserably. Their personal journeys of survival have sometimes led them to venture out of the country, leaving them no choice but to redefine what the concept of home is. The others that have chosen to remain weave equally interesting accounts of their place under the sun, creating their own identity in the world at large. Lagalag: The Traveling Journal of Filipinos is a project that documents the life stories of 40 Filipinos who come from all over the world and from all walks of life, imparting varied experiences linked together by their common sentiment of love for our home country. Though they have never met, they share one amazing journey in the form of two Moleskine notebooks.

Created by Wilfredo Pascual, a U.S.-based Filipino writer, the notebooks were inspired by pictures uploaded on Flickr, a photohosting website, specifically one of soldiers playing dominoes taken by an Ilocano U.S. Air Force man. That picture led Pascual to his blog, where its sounds and images rekindled a personal mantra felt during his wide-eyed days of wanting to change the world. “Dahil ang buhay ay isang laro ng domino sa gitna ng digmaan: ugnayan ang magliligtas sa atin” (Because life is a game of dominoes in times of war: we are saved by that which links us to each other). My mind was burning with ideas and only one image withstood the fire. A notebook.” These traveling journals addressed big, painful questions about home for strangers whose commonalities were their shared nationality and an online presence on Flickr.

Pascual made sure that diverse voices were well-represented, that the notebooks traveled to destinations with a quicker turnaround, and that its progress could be tracked online. Thus, chosen participants followed a system of passing on the notebook at a pit stop, either personally or by mail. “Mailing the notebook, that period when it was neither here nor there, was scary,” recounts Pascual. “I was always afraid of it getting lost, knowing how much the pages meant to those whose hands it had already passed. Changes in people’s schedules and their availability were also a challenge.

Original routes were changed a couple of times.”

Such daunting logistics and collective efforts from participants were amply rewarded by Lagalag defining its concept of “Filipino”. Pascual recounts it off the top of his head as “a medic in Iraq, a hairdresser in Makati, an installation artist in Houston, a graphic novel illustrator in Manila, teachers in China and Islamabad, a filmmaker in New York, a gaming industry employee in Pasig, an architect in Qatar, a graphic designer in Cambodia, a mother in Ontario, and a climber in Mt. Fuji, among others—the Filipino, in short, as a walking metamorphosis.”

The journey starts with Pascual, born and raised in Nueva Ecija, a two-time winner of the Carlos Palanca Memorial Award as well as the 2008 Philippine Free Press Literary Awards for Essay; alumnus of New York University’s creative writing program and a Breadloaf Scholar for Creative Nonfiction in the United States. After living in Thailand for 10 years, he moved to San Francisco where he joined an international non-profit organization called “Room to Read” as a global program officer aiding the publication of children’s books in developing countries. His job has made him travel many places, just returning from Johannesburg, Vientiane, Katmandu, and New Delhi.

Traveling for the past two years, uncertain about his decision on where to settle next, he drew a blank on his permanent address. This provided a canvas for the next writers to jot on their two-paged spreads.

Half of both notebooks are outward-looking, telling tales of their country left behind. We get to meet Remedy Medina, an Overseas Filipino Worker (OFW) actually thankful to Iraq for giving him a career where no med tech industry in the Philippines would. Working in a war-torn area no one would dare set foot on has its silver lining.

That’s where he met his wife and that’s where he earned enough money to migrate to the United States. But what is the price of the American Dream? For him, it was being absent at his mother’s deathbed or forsaking his role as an older brother. His tale is just one of the 19 who recount their stories of the Philippine diaspora. “They, in the pursuit of happiness, will drop some of their precious belongings along the way,” Remedy notes.

The other half is an introspective anthology of 20 writers who remained in the country. One is an anonymous revolutionary comrade who replaced her gun with a pen, quoting prose from a deceased fellow guerilla and appending a disc of war songs to ponder on.

Both notebooks reached their final destination in the hands of Daphne OseñaPaez, noted television host, producer, and magazine editor. By the time the journals reached her, they were bursting at the seams, full of memorabilia and keepsakes, well-thumbed and cherished. From numerous photographs, scribbles, and pasted tickets, to professional inserts and customized graphic text, these notebooks contain more than just stories—they’re living, breathing words and phrases, metaphors and imagery.

Being the last person to complete Lagalag, she represents the Filipinos who have returned to their roots. “For me, it was not only a physical move but also an emotional one; coming back home to a country that once rejected my family,” she tells us, referring to the time when her diplomat father was held back from returning to the Philippines. “But once I made my move from Canada back here for work and to help Dad obtain justice for being wrongly accused of a military cause, the country, ironically, embraced me and gave me more than what I expected.” Aside from her journey back home, she intends to talk of the future and what it holds for her family. tsuper

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When asked what the project wants to convey to its readers, she is quick to reply, “That the Filipino is searching for himself and is longing for his home no matter where he is or what work he does. As one of the writers mentioned, ‘I’m proud to be Pinoy, but right now, I’m a citizen of the world.’”

This concept of home, reiterated in the pages of Lagalag, is aptly described by Pascual: “Home is a nebulous idea, a state of perpetual haunting. Abroad, resilience is marked on its pages along with the soul-stirring need to belong, to rise above; to define the self in a new place. In the Philippines, home is that profound place we celebrate, where we forge our strength, find compassion and forgiveness. Home is also a breathing revolution. It is where you seek justice. Home wounds and heals, thriving in contradiction, and can mean being at two places at one time. Home makes you question your assumptions. Home is where you are shaken and where you stand your ground. Home makes you proud.”

The ultimate goal is to share this work with as many people as possible, through a traveling art exhibit and publication scheduled for 2009.

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By: Grace Pastorfide Photos by: Pat Mateo

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All Boxed Up

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ince its emergence on the design scene 30 years ago, Arquitectonica’s architecture has typically been a trade-off of opposites. Combining solid and void, opaque and transparent, the rational and the instinctive, Arquitectonica, led by Bernardo Fort-Brescia and Laurinda Spear, has aimed to build structures with remarkable receptivity. For One E-com Center, the SM Investments Corporation’s (SMIC) new hub for business and commerce at the Mall of Asia Complex, Arquitectonica infects a perforated, monolithic box with contained spaces that look out towards natural light.

Envisioned to be the prime business and tourism district in the country and the Asian region, The Mall of Asia Complex is a 60-hectare mixed-use development located along the coast of Manila Bay. The complex is now home to the Philippines’ largest shopping mall, the SM Mall of Asia (SM MoA). Next to it is the SMX Convention Center, a worldclass venue consisting of open exhibition areas, multi-functional halls, and flexible meeting rooms. The complex will soon boast of the SM Bay City Arena, a 12,000-seat multi-purpose site.

Arquitectonica’s One E-com Center is situated at the northern portion of this complex. The 94,000-square meter structure, 72,000 square meters of which was made available for lease, is a 10-storey building designed for the modern office. It houses Business Process Outsourcing (BPO) companies that seek to establish operations in the country or call center firms expanding operations. It is equipped with advanced telecom facilities, round-the-clock power supply, and chiller-type air conditioning system to meet the growing needs of its tenants, especially those with 24/7 operations.

Seven floors are allotted for office space while the ground floor is now occupied by several commercial establishments.

The center, with an average floor plate of 9,000 square meters, also has two and a half levels for parking with 600 slots.

Equally important is the layout of the quadrant-designed building. It includes four entrances and four lobbies for every quadrant, and 14 top-of-the-line elevators serving the building’s 10 levels, ensuring a smoother flow of traffic. These significant elements, along with its strategic proximity to the international airport, key seaports, and deluxe hotels and other major commercial and residential districts, have made One E-com Center an ideal commercial facility.

The façades of One E-com Center appear as flush blades of aluminum eaten into by several linear cuts, which define the structure’s four quadrants. At first glance, the building brings to mind Steven Holl’s Simmons Hall at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) but on a rather different scale. Each quadrant is punctured by square apertures that illuminate the interior without revealing, at least in daylight, each room’s exact position or size. These apertures reappear outside as stylish balustrades and inside as reception counters. The double-height entrances might be understood as cubic voids, where planes of glass were used so that the lobbies read as transparent boxes inside a larger, explicit box.

As a vertical intervention to its package-like construction, an atrium punctures the whole structure in the middle.

The interior then descends to accommodate a fifth-level courtyard where offices can look out to, with daylight as the natural attractor. This move triggers a reading of the entire structure as a set of caged volumes joined to the central courtyard and accessed alternatively, at least visually, from lower and upper internal levels.

The aluminum panels used on the building’s exterior are a protective and modular layer placed forward of partially operable windows to screen out the glare from the sun. The soffits and side panels or jambs, together with the structure’s exposed round columns, are coded in solid colors, with one color assigned to one quadrant, to create a kinetic Op-Art effect perpendicular to the static, outermost plane. Taking its cue from the SM Mall of Asia, Arquitectonica went with a Manila Bay sunset-inspired palette of blue, aqua, purple, and yellow. On a clear day, these colors also reflect off opposite jambs to create softer hues and add dimension to the center’s overall configuration.

At One E-com Center, tenants are now seeing the rewards of conducting offices near lifestyle centers. In turn, Arquitectonica seized the opportunity to produce a building that sets the quirky against the normative. Companies that have 24-hour operations all throughout the week are able to provide their employees with opportunities to make a dash to SM Mall of Asia, have a quick bite at a restaurant, get a much-needed workout at the fitness club, or even spend some time to reflect at the nearby church. Behind its mask, One E-com Center is a playful environment, not only for the adventurous, but also for those willing to engage with this seemingly avant-garde architecture. With One E-com Center, Arquitectonica has brought to fruition SM Investments Corporation’s vision of allowing even the busiest of employees to lead dynamic lifestyles.

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By: Voltaire Manalo Photos by: Pat Mateo

One E-Com Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s facade is composed of alternating transparent and opaque grids.

side trip Hong Kong’s unsung side plays more than the usual shopping mecca notion

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his corner of China sends a visceral impression of a rather kinetic place. From its world-class shopping to its far-reaching skyscrapers, it’s glaringly obvious that this is a cosmopolitan destination that jet setters frequent for business and pleasure. However, Hong Kong has a quieter side to balance itself out, like the Yin and Yang. It’s rarely seen by the average traveller but, with some effort, anyone can experience the wonders that this place has to offer.

The great thing about Hong Kong is that it is such a small place. It’s because of its size that public transportation benefits and very few of its residents own cars. Subway trains, double-decker trolleys, taxis, and ferry boats travel efficiently and punctually throughout the city. However, Hong Kong is one of Asia’s best walking cities and many landmarks are easily within walking distance. Good walking shoes are a must.

Mornings in Tsim Sha Tsui

The beginning of the day is often the best time to see the city without the constant thrum of people or the distraction of bright lights. In Kowloon Park, along Nathan Road, many local residents wake up at the crack of dawn and congregate in this little peaceful oasis in the city. In the south-western corner of Kowloon Park is a place called Kung Fu Corner, where the martial art made famous by Bruce Lee and Hong Kong cinema is exercised by practitioners. Free demonstrations and lessons are given on Sundays.

A few blocks down is the Victoria Harbour Waterfront where people practice Tai Chi with a view of Hong Kong’s famous skyline. Kowloon’s harbour has a few museums, such as the Museum of Art and the Space Museum. Along the waterfront, the Avenue of Stars honors the best and greatest of Chinese cinema with Hollywood Walk of Fame-like stars.

Across the street, on Salisbury Road, is the famous Peninsula Hotel. This old colonial hotel transports one to an era when Hong Kong still belonged to the British Crown.

The one thing that people should do in the morning is ride the iconic Star Ferry before rush hour. Taking the 10minute ride on the world famous ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central is a must any time of the day; traversing it early will give you a calmer perspective of the Hong Kong skyline as well as an enjoyable ride.

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Heights for sights

Legend has it that building owners, the Tai-pans, tried to outdo one another by building higher so that one may spit upon the other from their structures. Each one unique and Feng Shui-compliant, all of them contribute to the reputation of Hong Kong as the ‘Manhattan of the East’.

A walking tour of Central will give you a chance to gawk at these monoliths and check out high-end stores.

The most awe-inspiring structures are those of Bank of China, HSBC, and IFC2, Hong Kong’s tallest building as well as the terminal for the Airport Express. Though striking in its appearance, the I.M. Pei-designed Bank of China offends many of the traditionalists with its dark, angular exterior, much like a dagger to the heavens.

The nearby HSBC building, a huge gray-battleship like structure, is supported by eight groups of huge pillars so that people may be able to walk through it.

For a more heavenly view of Hong Kong, take the Peak Tram to the top of Victoria Peak. Though the Peak now has a plethora of shops and restaurants, the novelty of being taller than the buildings of Central makes for an amazing view, with the rolling clouds and the high winds. Afterwards, you have the option of going to Ocean Park or have lunch in one of the many floating restaurants in Aberdeen Harbour.

Hidden gems in the New Territories

Nearby the MTR stop of Diamond Hill is the Chi Lin Nunnery. Modelled after classic Japanese temple designs, this quiet place has a perfectly proportioned temple filled with gold statues and serene chanting from Buddhist nuns alongside a beautiful garden filled with plants and trees native to China. Meandering around, you see pagodas, water wheels, a small museum full of wood cravings, and a pond. There is also a tea house under a waterfall to help in basking in the garden’s serenity.

Further along is the town of Sha Tin where Hong Kong’s second race track is found, as well as the equestrian events venue during 2008 Beijing Olympics. One of two IKEA branches can be found here too. Aside from these special distinctions, Sha Tin is famous for the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery. To go to the monastery, you have to climb 400 steps while keeping company with 500 goldpainted Buddhist saints. Once at the top, you enter a terrace filled with various incarnations of Buddha.

Entering the main temple, you are immediately awestruck at the sight of thousands of one foot Buddha statuettes in different poses, floor to ceiling, surrounding the room, each individually lit.

Another adventure to consider while in the New Territories is to take a bus from Tai Po to the village of Lam Tsuen. It is here that one will find the Wishing Tree. Legend has it that an old man made a wish on a camphor tree for his health and it was immediately granted. The wishing process is as follows: write your wish on the special paper provided then attach it to an orange with a string. You then toss the orange up in the air, the highest you can muster, and let the string get caught in the branches.

Words & Photos by: Ni単o Puyat

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SUPER WORLD WANDERLUST Praying for good fortune

Despite its modernity, Hong Kong is still extremely superstitious. People pray constantly for good fortune and no major construction in Hong Kong is permitted without the approval of a Feng Shui master.

Tin Hau Temple, originally set by the water but now inland due to land reclamation, is a charming little temple in Public Square Street. Tin Hau is a goddess of the sea and protected seafarers. What makes this place worth seeing is that it is a public space where old people meet to play chess and mahjong.

One of the most popular temples in Hong Kong is Wong Tai Sin Temple. Always busy with worshippers no matter what the day, this particular temple is dedicated to the art of fortune telling. After paying their respects with incense and offerings, locals’ kow-tow in front of the main altar with a sealed tube full of numbered bamboo sticks. They then shake the container until one of the sticks fall to the ground. Nearby, fortune tellers are housed in a two-storey building so that the sticks may be interpreted. Other forms of fortune telling such as face reading, palm reading and Chinese horoscope are also offered here.

As it so happens, many gamblers go to Wong Tai Sin before going to Happy Valley Race Course on race day. Other than the lottery, horse racing is the only legal form of gambling in Hong Kong. With $3 billion in revenue annually, it’s possible to become a millionaire overnight.

Best go with an expert if you want to understand their betting system.

The street markets of Mongkok

As shopping meccas goes, Hong Kong has an amazing range, from expensive brands to impressive

knock-offs. Malls are everywhere but it’s the street markets, especially the ones in Mongkok that give character to this metropolis. In a ridiculous way, it feels like Hong Kong has a street market for every single consumer need.

The Jade Market located under the Gascoigne Flyover is a wonderful place to find rare gems, semi-precious stones, and bejewelled trinkets and, most especially, jade, the most favored gemstone of the Chinese. If goldfish are your fancy then the Gold Fish Market on Tong Choi Street is for you. Aside from the lucky goldfish, other varieties of fish are sold here as well to lend good Feng Shui to any home.

Flower Market Road features shops upon shops filled with inexpensive flowers but the weekend brings orchids of many varieties and the New Year heralds an influx of orange trees and plum blossoms. Perpendicular to Flower Market Road is the Bird Market.

Located in a purposely-built Chinese garden, visitors are treated to chirping birds housed in wooden cages by the hundreds. Night markets are the best because even the locals hang here after work, to shop and eat and buy that little toy for their kid. For womanly things, people go to the Ladies’ Night Market where they buy everything from thread for their dresses down to shoes to match them.

The best of the street markets is undoubtedly the Temple Street Night Market. Admittedly, the place is a tourist trap but what better place to buy all of your souvenirs? They sell everything under the sun. You can eat at the corner stall and be entertained by street performers singing Chinese Opera. The biggest reward is the joyous atmosphere you experience.

If street markets aren’t your thing then check out the outlet stores, which can be found all over Hong Kong. Near the Tung Chung MTR station in Lantau Island is an outlet mall full of stores that meets all price ranges. There’s also an across-the-border trip to Shenzhen, a special economic zone beyond the New Territories.

Hong Kong night life

Besides the night markets, the best thing to see at night is the famous Hong Kong skyline after sunset. Who needs fireworks when the horizon is exploding with displays of colour from buildings?

This is the Hong Kong we see in travel shows and picture postcards.

In Kowloon, just following Nathan Road and its side streets, we are spoilt for choices on what to do.

On 42 Mody Road, the Spring Deer serves the best peking duck in town. For bars and restaurants, head for the Mid-Levels, where the world’s longest escalator is, and trawl the many establishments for a good time with friends. Just remember that you are clubbing in one of the most expensive cities in the world so limit your alcohol intake.

Words & Photos by: Niño Puyat

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Island getaway Lantau is the biggest of the Outlying Islands and home of Hong Kong’s most enduring symbol. While Paris has the Eiffel Tower and Sydney has its Opera House, Hong Kong has the Tian Tan Buddha, located by the Po Lin Monastery. The journey to Lantau and the Big Buddha is an adventure in itself. The best way to get there is to board a ferry to the island then take a bus or ride the train to the Tung Chung MTR station and take the Ngong Ping cable car. The monastery has a good restaurant that serves vegetarian meals. Save the meal ticket however, since it will give you entrance to the museum within the Buddha’s seat.

There are 268 steps climbing up to the Buddha and each step feels like a step towards enlightenment. Even with the tourists and the devotees that come to this massive landmark, the experience of seeing this enormous statue is both uplifting and humbling at the same time. The panoramic view from here seems to enhance the tranquillity of being with the Buddha. With the saved ticket, you can visit the museum located under the Buddha’s seat. Most of the exhibits tell of Buddha’s life, but the highlight of the museum is a relic which is believed to be a piece of bone from Buddha himself. After descending, you can contemplate some more with a cup of tea in the Lantau Tea Gardens.

It’s because of its size that Hong Kong makes it possible to create a lengthy to-do list. With some extra effort, you can do more than party and shop and see the typical sights. Hong Kong has hidden corners and pockets of peace that help slow down the break-neck speed for visitors to appreciate this little dragon. And despite the occasional upheavals of everyday life, the velocity of Hong Kong continues to aim towards the future under the everwatchful eye of Mother China.

Words & Photos by: Niño Puyat

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Barcelona, a flare for everything Catalan

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Then there’s Casa Mila which has a beautiful interior and wonderful rooftop. Casa Vicens, on the other hand, is private property. Visitors can only marvel at its exterior. The property is actually for sale. One can own this World Heritage Site for a “mere” €30 million!

Aside from Antoni Gaudí, the world has also taken notice of Lluís Domènech i Montaner, another Catalan Modernista architect, whose works have also been inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Just a few minutes from the Sagrada Familia is the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, a sprawling hospital complex built between 1901 and 1930. It is, in fact, a functional hospital up to today.

Another work of Domènech i Montaner is the Palau de la Música Catalana, a concert hall built in the Modernista style with rich decoration on its façade. There are guided tours to the grand Modernist Concert Hall and other smaller halls at €10 per person. Tickets have to be purchased at least one week in advance because there is a limit of 55 persons on each tour.

Previous page: Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece, may be completed in 2026, 100 years after Gaudi’s tragic death.

This page: These two towers mark the entrance to Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina and were built as the gateway to the 1929 World’s Fair.

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of these structures is the Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família, the uncompleted church known as Sagrada Familia, one of Spain's most popular attractions. Construction for the church began in 1882 and continues up to today. It is scheduled for completion in 2026, a century after Gaudí 's tragic death.

Gaudí, often referred to as “God’s architect”, worked on the project for 40 years until his passing in 1926. When asked why the construction was taking so long, he was said to have remarked, "My client is not in a hurry."

Gaudí had intended the church to be the "last great sanctuary of Christendom." He is buried in the crypt found below the church.

Aside from incorporating elements of Catalan culture in his designs, Antoni Gaudí was a supporter of the Catalanist political party Regionalist League. He was also at the forefront of the Catalan independence movement from Nationalist Spain. He was passionate about Catalan and it showed in his craft and in his politics.

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Gaudí is also famous for Park Güell, another icon of Barcelona built on top of Carmel Hill. This is a Gaudí work one should not miss. Many of the park elements are characterized by multicolored tile mosaics. Entrance to the Park Güell is free.

Of all the Gaudi-designed houses, Casa Batlló, a building redesigned by Gaudi for the Batlló family, is considered a favorite by many.

Also known as Casa dels Ossos (House of Bones), this colorful home is remarkable and very representative of Gaudi's work. The entrance fee €16.50 is money well spent. Walking around its different rooms, the courtyard and rooftop makes one realize the brilliance of Gaudi's mind.

His creativity was indeed ahead of his time.

Text & Photos by: Ivan Henares

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ive queasy hours on an early morning bus from Valencia will get you to Barcelona by the time the sun is out. As soon as you step out of the Metro station, the Sagrada Familia, the unfinished Gaudí masterpiece, greets you.

Indeed, it is Barcelona!

Although its cultural roots go back 2000 years, it is the contemporary work of Antoni Gaudí that has long dominated the character of Barcelona. Gaudí is said to be THE architect of the early 20th century. His fervor for individualism and the avant-garde have defined the buildings of this great Modernist architect. Gaudí’s zeal for uniqueness epitomizes the Barcelona flare.

Many of Gaudí’s works have been inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Foremost

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(sketching tourists for an on-the-spot portrait) among many others. As Spanish poet Federico García aptly puts it, La Rambla is "the only street in the world which I wish would never end".

Along La Rambla is the entrance to another iconic attraction of the city, a street market called the Mercat de la Boqueria. The many tastes, colors, and scents inside the market with its diverse selection of goods were indeed a feast for the senses. You have a myriad of choices among the chocolates, candies, and fresh fruits.

After exploring La Rambla, go deeper into Barri Gòtic, Barcelona's Old Quarter. The district stretches from La Rambla to Via Laietana, and from the Mediterranean seafront to Ronda de Sant Pere. It is a leisurely walk amidst its many fabled structures, including the covered Gothic walkway above Carrer del Bisbe Irurita, Placa Sant Jaume where the Casa de la Ciutat (Ayuntamiento) and Palau de la Generalitat are located, and the Mare de Déu de la Mercé.

Previous page: 1,2: Details from a building near the entrance of Park Güell 3. Hordes of street performers liven up La Rambla, a famous pedestrian mall at the heart of Barcelona.

4. One of the many early 20th century pavilions designed by Catalan architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner that are still in use at the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau. This page: Casa Batlló, a building restored by Antoni Gaudí and Josep Maria Jujol, is also called the Casa dels ossos (House of Bones) because of its visceral, skeletal organic quality.

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Mar, the building which housed the art school where he studied, among many other sites.

Delve deep into La Ribera and you will find a district which hosted Picasso's last studio before he departed for Paris. There is a beautiful basilica named Santa Maria del Mar. Stops are quick so you can opt to come back if you want to further explore interiors.

The last stop is the Museu Picasso which contains the world's most important collection of works from Picasso's youth and formative years.

Although there are several Picasso museums in the world, the one in Barcelona is the only one established on the expressed wish of the artist.

The whole cost of the tour is €15 and this includes entrance to the Museu Picasso. And since tickets to the museum are given to you, there’s no need to join the long lines to get one!

But there is still so much more to Barcelona.

Walking along La Rambla and exploring Barri Gòtic provide opportunities for any visitor to discover

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what else this Spanish city has to offer.

A busy central street of Barcelona, La Rambla (also called Las Ramblas or Les Rambles) is a 1.2 km tree-lined pedestrian mall. If you find yourself in the paseo on a Saturday afternoon, you may find yourself swimming against and with a sea of tourists.

The Rambla experience is complete with street performers in colorful and creative costumes (you’ll have to churn out a euro or two if you want a photo with them), the various souvenir stalls (selling almost every Barcelona souvenir you could think of), pet shops (many of which sold different species of turtles), flower stands, and the artists' makeshift studios

Text & Photos by: Ivan Henares

Then there is Pablo Picasso. How could a visit to Barcelona be complete without discovering the bohemian Barcelona where Picasso lived, walking its streets, hearing anecdotes of the famous painter's friends as well as the events that influenced his life and artistic career?

The Picasso Walking Tour allows you to experience and understand Picasso more by visiting places he frequented in Barcelona during the many years he was there.

There is Els Quatre Gats, a restaurant in a modernista building frequented by Picasso and intellectuals of his time; the friezes on the facade of the Col-legi d'Arquitectes, his only piece of public art in Barcelona; as well as the Llotja de

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International Exposition (World's Fair). The surviving buildings from this event are the Palau Nacional, a grand structure which now houses the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC), a museum that holds the largest collection of Catalan art in the world, Estadi Olímpic (the Olympic Stadium), Font Màgica fountains, and the Poble Espanyol, a showcase of architecture from all over Spain, among many others. The Olympic Stadium poised to host an antifascist Olympic Games as an alternative to the 1936 Berlin Olympics when the Spanish Civil War erupted.

For a time, Montjuïc also hosted Formula One racing. The Spanish Grand Prix was held there four times until a terrible car crash in 1975 killed four spectators. The Olympic Stadium is now home to the RCD Espanyol football team since 1998. The Miro Foundation can also be found in Montjuïc.

There aren’t enough days in a week to experience the flare of this iconic Catalan and Spanish city. Barcelona is truly a must visit destination!

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This page: Entrance to Gaudi’s Park Güell

Also in Barri Gòtic is the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia, where you can find the famous 13 geese in the central courtyard of the cloister.

The number represents the age of Santa Eulalia when she was martyred in the 4th century. Her remains are buried in a magnificent crypt inside the cathedral. Magnificent chapels are scattered around the area. Aside from Santa Eulalia, another popular saint buried in the Barcelona cathedral is St. Raymondof Penyafort.

A free afternoon can be spent discovering Montjuïc. Who could forget the opening ceremony of the 1992 Olympic Games in Barcelona, especially the archer who shot a flaming arrow immediately over the cauldron high above the stadium to light the Olympic Flame? This was the first time the Olympic flame lighting deviated from the usual torch run to the top. Seeing the Olympic Stadium, renamed the Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys for the ‘92 Games, and the cauldron on top when you visit Montjuïc is bound to bring back memories.

Montjuïc (or Hill of the Jews) has a storied past, having been selected to host the 1929

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Text & Photos by: Ivan Henares

Previous page: The Palau Nacional, built for the 1929 World’s Fair, is currently home to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya or MNAC.

A lot of the city can be covered thanks to the Barcelona Bus Turístic, a tourist bus with an open-air second floor. It may seem expensive at first (its €20 for a day pass and €26 for two days), but it’s very convenient and a good deal! The bus ticket allows you unlimited rides on the three lines (Blue, Red and Green). The bus stops within meters of all major tourist attractions and saves you a lot of time from walking.

Although the Metro may be cheaper, some stations are quite a distance from major attractions. So this is highlyrecommended especially if your time in Barcelona is limited.

Want a taste of Barcelona’s passion for football? Then visit Camp Nou, the home of FC Barcelona. Completed in 1957, this UEFA five-star rated stadium is the largest in Europe with its capacity of 98,772 people. In Camp Nou, one can find the FCBotiga Megastore where you can find tons of FC Barcelona paraphernalia and items. If you’re a big football fan, make sure to get tickets for the Camp Nou Tour and Museum which cost €13 each.

Top right: Santiago Calatrava’s Olympic telecommunications tower was built to transmit television coverage of the 1992 Olympic Games.

Right: Skyscrapers of the past line the Via Laietana.

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Into the Verde By: Jocelle Evangelista Photos by: Raymond Dy

Get into the center of marine biodiversity through the Verde Islands

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Previous page: Dwarf Lion Fish (Dendrochirus brachypterus), Pinnacle, Verde Island

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one for the weekend”, it said on the invitation from a resort in Verde Island. Having been stowed away in my office and buried in grueling corporate work, meetings, and endless presentations for weeks, I cleared out my Friday, packed my wetsuit, and said yes to the three-day free dives R&R weekend. But little did I know that the relaxing weekend I was hoping for was far from what I would get.

During the three-hour drive to Batangas, I was already dreaming of what I would see under the waters of the Verde Passage. I had heard so much about the Verde Island waters from fellow divers. Besides being infamous for its very strong currents, it is also considered the “center of the center” of marine biodiversity in the world! Having already seen the underwater wonders of Anilao, Balicasag, Apo Island and Tubbataha, my insides were bubbling with anticipation regarding what Verde Island would showcase and if it was going to live up to its being the epicenter of teeming marine life.

In 2006, President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo declared the Verde Island Passage Marine Corridor, located between Batangas and Mindoro Island, a national protected area and marine sanctuary. This declaration was backed-up by a three-year study conducted by the Global Marine Species Assessment of the World Conservation Union, which determined that indeed, the Verde Island Passage has the highest concentration of marine species in the world—up to 1,736 overlapping marine species in a span of just 10 kilometers (that’s a lot of fish!). The study entitled “The Center of the Center of Marine Shorefish Biodiversity: The Philippine Islands” was authored

by Kent Carpenter, International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources coordinator, together with Victor Springer of the Smithsonian Institute.

Finally arriving on the island, spent from the road trip and the 30-minute boat ride, we only had a couple of hours to rest before intro dive classes were to begin. I thought this was fittingly enough as there was no sense appreciating the Verde Island Passage from above sea level.

For the certified divers in the group, the real adventure started at 8am the next day when we were taken to the famous San Agapito dive site, just five minutes off the island by speed boat. A back roll into the water later, I was simply swept away—not by the currents, as the sea was still fairly calm—but by the life bustling just a few feet underneath the tranquil waters above. I then knew…I was definitely in the center of the center! I was awestruck at the activity of fast moving tails, the flurry of colors, curious eyes darting in and out behind corals. There were schools and schools of trigger fish, parrot fish, butterfly fish and even more schools of fish my limited knowledge in marine biology could barely identify; just passing me by like it was rush hour in EDSA. I was looking forward to a nice relaxing early morning dive but this was absolutely much better.

Bringing my underwater camera with me, I simply became wide-eyed and shutter happy!

Never in my two years of being a diver had I seen such a variety of fish within one hour. In the first few minutes we were underwater, the dive master already pointed out a frog fish camouflaging itself on a bright green tube coral. A few minutes later, from a nearby coral a moray eel reared its head (bearing its fangs at me) as I took its photo. After three more eel sightings, I saw a number of graceful lion fish, nudibranchs (sea slugs) of different shapes and hues, my first ever glimpse of tiny (approximately an inch in size) anemone crabs, puffer fish, angel fish, Dory (regal tang) from the Finding Nemo movie (though I can’t guarantee it was actually Dory that I saw), and countless other marine life. Yes, I too found Nemo (clownfish) and other versions of him. Ascending from the dive, I felt as electrified as a road-raged driver late for a meeting, weaving her way through the very same rush hour traffic I gave up to be part of this weekend getaway.

Our next dive was at Boulders, where we experienced the current that Verde is known for.

As we drifted with the tide above the corals, the view was once again spectacular. Other famous dive sites in Verde are Nalayag in San Agustin, the Verde Wall, and the Washing Machine, where species like jack fish (pompano), groupers (lapu-lapu), banded sea snakes, humphead wrasse, surgeon fish, bat fish, and sweetlips and even hawksbill, olive ridley, and green turtles—already considered endangered—can be spotted. Coupled with the abundance of fish is the wealth in corals, among the 300 species are tubastrea (tube corals), montipora (pore corals), (hand corals), tunicates (sea squirts), etc.

Although, according to the Sulu-Sulawesi Seascape, the Verde Passage Corridor is blessed with such riches, it is also one of the most threatened marine areas in the country. It is surrounded by the seaports and energy facilities, such as oil, gas, and geothermal plants, which line the Batangas coast. There are also unsustainable fishing methods such as illegal and dynamite fishing.

SUPER WORLD AWAY By: Jocelle Evangelista Photos by: Raymond Dy

Clockwise: Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa), North Slope, Verde Island; Hinge Back Shrimp (Rhynchocinetes serratus), House Reef, Verde Island; Nudibranch / Sea Slug (Chromodoris cf. reticulata / tinctoria), San Agapito Wall, Verde Island; Common Octopus (Octopus Vulagaris), East Ridge San Agapito, Verde Island

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To address these, initiatives are undertaken by different groups to protect and conserve the Verde Passage. Conservation scientists come and share their knowledge in preserving the passage’s treasures and visitors to the island are given valuable information on conservation efforts.

After the day’s dives, a flurry of activities ensued. There was a showcase of native Verde Island fares such as the making of pakaskas—a sweet spread made out of buri tree sap (perfect with suman), producing buri tree hats and banigs, and baking bibingka or rice cakes. These aim to assist the Verde community in marketing their native products by giving them away as tokens for their guests.

After which, some tree-potting and coral-replanting followed and each guest and I became instant parents to buri tree seedlings. They were to be replanted around the island. Corals that were washed ashore were also named after us. These are meant to be relocated to a safer place in the sea, where they will become added real estate to help house all of the 1,736 species thriving in the famous passage.

Heading back home to bustling and hustling Manila, my lower back was aching from the dives but my mind was still racing from what I had seen in the center of the center of it all. I also thought back on all the other activities we participated in so as to have the whole Verde experience. I felt as exhausted at the end of my short vacation as I had at the beginning of it, but it was, in every way, worth it. For being in the middle of early morning rush hour in the Verde passage is certainly more enjoyable than being stuck in the midst of a traffic jam in EDSA. Handling moist earth to repot my new baby Buri Tree is a more inspiring feat compared to pouring over paperwork and meeting deadlines in the office. And being witness to the Verde community’s everyday way of life, may it be as simple as baking bibingka or weaving buri hats, reminded me that you can find so much joy from the simplest things in life as compared to the rat race so many of us willingly (though sometimes begrudgingly) participate in.

These experiences, along with the pain in my joints, I have taken back with me from my, as it turned out, totally un-relaxing weekend. But it was definitely more than what I bargained for. Every vacation should end this way.

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By: Jocelle Evangelista Photos by: Raymond Dy

Clockwise, from previous page: Juvenile Dwarf Lion Fish (Dendrochirus brachypterus), San Agapito, Verde Island; Nudibranch / Sea Slug (Phyllidia cf elegans, San Agapito, Verde Island; Saltwater CatFish (Plotosus Lineatus), House Reef, Verde Island Resort ;Giant Clam (Tridacna gigas),Washing Machine, Verde Island

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Photos by: Bless Afable

Quiapo Smiles

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Photos by: Bless Afable

Quiapo Smiles

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The Giant Lantern Festival in San Fernando, Pampanga proves itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth more than the mistletoe

F

or any first-time visitor, nothing seems more ironic than the Philippines during the holidays.

Colorful lights dot almost every street corner, stores scream out sales, and holiday-themed activities abound, from the Simbang Gabi to Christmas parties lasting until the break of dawn.

Indeed, it is so festive during the Christmas season that it is possible to forget that the country is seemingly always on the verge of economic and political meltdown. Then again, this is the Philippines, a nation known for the resilience of its people, and Christmas brings out the Filipino tenacity all the more.

Take San Fernando in Pampanga, a province that made world headlines in 1991 for being one of the most ravaged areas during the Mt. Pinatubo eruption. Now, the town is home to one of the most popular Christmas festivals in the country, the Giant Lantern Festival, known locally as Ligligan Parul.

There are many accounts as to how the festival started. One of the more popular ones states that the festival ensued from a lantern-making festival mounted by the locals in gratitude to then-president Manuel L. Quezon for turning Mt. Arayat into a tourist destination. Other versions recount that the Lantern Festival evolved from a religious activity called ubenas, where lanterns were transferred from barrio to barrio to coincide with the nine-day Simbang Gabi.

From materials that include bamboo, Japanese paper, and other local items, the simple parol has now evolved into a more complex mechanism, combining ingenuity with art and electronics.

These days, lanterns are made from steel rotors, plastic, capiz shells and use about 3,000 to 5,000 individual lightbulbs. Most of the giant lanterns rise up to 15 feet, with some reaching 40 feet, using up to 16,000 lightbulbs with the lights controlled electronically.

Held every year on the last Saturday before Christmas, the Giant Lantern Festival continues to draw thousands of visitors, both local and foreign. The giant lanterns showcase kaleidoscopes in the night sky, with people marveling at the ingenuity and creativity. They are the product of months of labor from the dedicated lantern makers of Pampanga. Though it continues to be an inter-barangay contest, the festival has borne an entire industry of lanternmaking, prompting the provincial government

to open Paskuhan Village (now known as the Philippine Cultural Village, or Nayong Pilipino, of North Luzon)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the only Christmas-themed park in Asia and the third of its kind in the world.

These brightly-lit giant stars have become more than just a simple ornament for the humble Filipino home. They can be seen on almost every edifice, a local emblem identified with a true Pinoy Christmas. The lanternmakers continue to be dedicated to this craft because these lanterns serve as a source of pride and hope for the people once devastated by nature. The parol, a symbol for the star that led the three wise men to the manger where the newborn Christ laid, remains a beacon of hope for the people of Pampanga and for the nation as a whole.

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By: Kristina Rita Photos by: Edwin David

The Stars Shine Down on Pampanga

EVE N T S

November 2008: * November 5 - 25: Angono Arts Festival Angono, Rizal Home to National Artists Botong Francisco and Lucio San Pedro, there are a multitude of artists’ groups residing in Angono. Held every year, the Public Arts Festival holds exhibits, poetry readings, theater performances, film showings and mini-concerts among others with the mission of bringing the art of Angono closer to the people. *November 14 – 17: Manila International Salsa Festival 2008 One Esplanade, Seaside Blvd. corner Macapagal Ave., Manila The Manila International Salsa Festival showcases international and local salsa talents with a series of dance performances and workshops alongside parties and live music entertainment. *November 16: Rihanna & Chris Brown in Concert The Fort Open Field MTV Philippines and Globe present Rihanna and Chris Brown, two of today’s hottest musical acts in a one-night only concert at the Fort Open Field. Both with several hits to their name such as Umbrella, Don’t Stop The Music, Run It and With You, Rihanna and Chris Brown have made their mark in the music industry. *November 17-19: La Union Surf Break/ Surfing Festival Urbiztondo, San Juan, La Union One of the popular surf spots in the country, this weekend-long event holds surf clinics and other sport activities like frisbee and beach volleyball in the coastal town of San Juan.

will feature full-length and short films, documentaries and animation that tackle core values that promote responsible citizenship and various advocacies that contribute to nation building. *November 30:Annual Pinatubo Trek (A March for Peace and Tranquility) Brgy. Sta Juliana, Capas Tarlac An annual trek to commemorate the great eruption of Mt. Pinatubo, this event is promoted by the Department of Tourism as A March for Peace and Tranquility. The activity is meant to bring to mind the power of nature and our responsibility as its caretakers. An ecumenical celebration at the peak after the trek serves as the culminating activity for this event.

December 2008: *December 1: Annual LGBT Pride March Malate, Manila An annual march and gathering of the the LGBT (Lesbians Gays Bisexuals and Transgenders) and all supporters who embrace diversity and equality. This event aspires for awareness among members of the society of the different genders and recognition of equal rights for all, regardless of their sexual orientation and preference. *December 5 - 6: Hairspray: The Musical Star Theater, Pasay City Atlantis Productions bring to Manila the TonyAward winning musical. This story of a young girl trying to make a difference in a world of discrimination during the 1960's has made it one of the most beloved musicals of the new generation.

*November 28 – 30: Rockwell Urban Bazaar Powerplant Mall, Rockwell, Makati City The yearly shopping bazaar has drawn a loyal following because of unique finds and a wide array of shopping selections from exhibitors which include clothes, shoes, accessories, beauty and home items.

*December 11-16: Coffee Festival Lipa City, Batangas Batangas has long been popular as the coffee granary of the Philippines. The Batangas Coffee Festival was conceived to showcase the famous Batangas Coffee or Kapeng Barako, a more potent variety of coffee. This weeklong celebration includes trade fairs, bazaars, contests and the traditional “Karera ng Tiburin” race.

*November 26 – December 2 : Dakila Collective Presents: Active Vista Filmfest Robinson’s Galleria Indie Sine The Dakila Collective of artists present ActiveVista, a weeklong film festival that

*December 14 - 20: San Fernando Giant Lantern Festival San Fernando, Pampanga Pampanga has cemented its status as the Christmas Capital of the Philippines with the

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annual Giant Lantern Festival, showcasing giant lanterns made by different baranggays from the city of San Fernando. This event is something that both locals and visitors eagerly await every year because of the extraordinary and brilliant display of lights from giant lanterns that rise up to 30 to 40 feet. *December 16: Clark Night Market/ Bazaar Bayanihan Park, Clark Special Economic Zone, Pampanga The Night Market/ Bazaar is a year-end activity that provides a venue for wholesaler and retailers of food, non-food and other novelty items at lower prices. * December 17: UP Grand Centennial Lantern Parade UP Diliman The UP community celebrates its Centennial Anniversary with a grand centennial lantern parade showcasing the works of different colleges and UP constituents. This annual tradition has attracted visitors from all over the metro to witness the parade of colorful lanterns and other giant artistic renditions of anything and everything related to UP and Christmas. * December 19 – 21: Christmas Shop Expo/ Noel Discovery Bazaar 2008 World Trade Center, Pasay, Manila Now on its 8th year, one of the country's biggest bazaars, the Noel Discovery Bazaar treats all shoppers to another Christmas of treats and exclusive finds. Aside from shopping, a wide array special events such as mini-concerts, fashion shows and cooking demos in partnership with GMA shows. Proceeds of the event will go to the foundations supported by the GMA Network. *December 30: Jose Rizal’s Death Anniversary Dapitan City/ Luneta Park, Manila The whole country commemorates the death of Jose Rizal, the country's national hero with a series of activities including lectures on his life and works by known historical speakers.

January 2009: *January 8 – February 14 (Opening January 8): Stella Kalaw - Family Spaces Silverlens Gallery, Manila 2320 Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati City A photographer based in San Francisco,

Stella Kalaw's documentation of her family's individual living spaces from locations all over the world comes to a Manila with an exhibit at the Silverlens Gallery in Manila. *January 9: Feast of The Black Nazarene Quiapo, Manila One of the most popular religious celebrations in Manila, the Feast of the Black Nazarene draws close to a million devotees every year to the Quiapo Church. Hundreds end up being injured and suffer from heatstroke with a couple or so casualties but this has not stopped the followers from braving the massive crowd every year from their devotion as the statue of the Black Nazarene is believed to have miraculous powers to those who can touch him. *January 9 – 19: Sinulog Festival Cebu City, Cebu A feast to honor the Santo Nino, the province's patron. One of the country's most colorful festivals, this originated from a dance ritual of the native Filipinos juxtaposing their pagan past with their acceptance of Christianity. At present the festival features a grand street parade where both locals and participants from other provinces perform street dances garbed in colorful costumes. *January 1 – 31: Ati-atihan Festival Kalibo, Aklan One of the most widely celebrated festivals in the country and is considered as the mother of all Philippine festivals, the AtiAtihan is another festival in honor of the Sto. Nino. Reminiscent of the Mardi Gras where participants paint their body in black and join the street parade dancing in revelry. *January 1 – 31: Boracay International Funboard Cup Boracay, Aklan Boracay is one the most popular beach destinations in the country, famed for its stretches of white sand beaches. It is also a prime destination for watersports such as windsurfing, with the Annual Boracay International Funboard Cup attracting competitors and visitors from all over the world. Other activities include parties and concerts with Boracay's famed nightlife.

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By: Kristina Rita and Joan Soro Art by: Paul Joseph Blasco

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QUIAPO CHURCH

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By: Kristina Rita and Joan Soro Art by: Paul Joseph Blasco

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GOLDEN MOSQUE

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BLACK NAZARENE

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The Quiapo Church is one of the most popular churches in Manila, drawing close to a million devotees every year for the Feast of the Black Nazarene.

Believed to have healing and miraculous powers, the Black Nazarene has survived several disaster including fires and earthquakes. An often-told story among devotees is how the statue remained intact during the Japanese Occupation even as the whole Quiapo Church burned down to the ground.

The Black Nazarene has been in the country for a little over 400 years. It was entrusted to a Recollect priest and was brought onboard a galleon from Mexico to Manila in the early 1600s. The ship caught fire at some point during the voyage, damaging the Nazareno and causing its dark brown color to turn even darker.

PLAZA MIRANDA

MANILA ROYAL HOTEL

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SAN SEBASTIAN

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The Picache Building fronting Plaza Miranda was one of the first skyscrapers in Manila. It was designed by Angel Nakpil during the 1960's.

Located in Globo de Oro Street, the Golden Mosque was built during the time of former President Ferdinand Marcos. Sorrounding the area is one of the largest Muslim communities in Metro Manila.

One of the most popular historical landmarks in Manila because of its infamous bombing in 1972 that instigated the proclamation of the Martial Law. It continues to be a venue for rallies and demonstrations, while fortune tellers and vendors continue to ply their trade around the area.

Located along Padre Gomez Street, Manila Royal Hotel, with its revolving restaurant, used to be one of the first five-star hotels located in the district of Quiapo.

Noted for its architecture, the San Sebastian Church is the only all-steel church in Asia. The church is rumored to have been designed by Gustave Eiffel, a renowned French structural engineer. The church was the first all iron church in the world. It was also the first iron edifice in Asia and second in the world after the Eiffel Tower of Paris.

LACSON UNDERPASS

QUINTA MARKET

DVDs

RAON STREET

HIDALGO STREET

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Built under the administration of Arsenio H. Lacson, this was the city’s first underpass. It has been around for more than four decades and has been renovated several times over the years with seven walkways leading to the major streets of Quiapo.

La Quinta, which means “country villas” is the central market of Quiapo.

Quiapo is known all over the metro as the place to-go-to for cheap pirated DVDs featuring both local and foreign movies, concerts, classics and hard-to-find films

The street is currently known for selling cheap and knock-off electronic goods and gadgets. In the 1970s and 80s however, Raon was home to several music publishing offices, similar to the Tin Pan Alley, a nickname given to an actual street in Manhattan where many of the popular music publishing companies were housed.

A popular destination for photography enthusiasts as it boasts of bargain-priced cameras both brand-new and secondhand and other photography equipment. Some stores also carry vintage cameras dating back from the 1920’s.

GLOBE LUMPIA

BAHAY NAKPIL

CANDLES

PATERNO STREET

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Globe Lumpia is inconspicuously located at Raon Street. near the overpass. Upon getting there you’ll find a queue of people patiently waiting to be served with this famous fresh lumpia.

Established 50 years ago, this sole branch of Globe Lumpia House survives the age of fast food restaurants.

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This well-preserved ancestral house (bahay na bato), now a museum, was built by Arcadio Arellano in 1914 and used to belong to Dr. Ariston Bautista and his wife Dona Petrona Nakpil.

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During Fridays and Sundays in Quiapo, one will find candles on sale in different colors: red for life and family; white for repentance and purity; green for money, blue for atonement and black for revenge; violet for material wealth.

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This street houses several optical and dental supply stores that has been a favorite among buyers. Cheap designer glasses from such brands as Giordano, Anne Klein, Paul Smith and Zara can be bought at significantly lower prices without the markups in counterpart mall stores.

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Contrary to popular belief, pamparegla, which means to “induce menstruation” is not an abortive concoction. It contains makabuhay, sambong leaves, red sugar, skin of dita fruit and pharmaceutical preservatives.

LOUIS VUITTON CITY GUIDE 2009

Louis Vuitton has developed its collection of guides and for the first time, presents five individual volumes devoted to five cities of the world: Mumbai, Miami, New York, Paris, and Tokyo.

The Miami City Guide unveils this sunny, flamboyant city as well as proposing a number of tropical escapades that offer a relaxing alternative to the frenzy of this capital of hedonism.

The unprecedented Mumbai City Guide offers a contemporary picture of one of India’s most dynamic metropolises and the opportunity to discover three legendary Rajasthan cities: Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur.

The fifth edition of the New York City Guide has been thoroughly updated in order to reveal the creative heart of this city.

The Paris City Guide available for the first time in its own slip-case observes the city with a unique, original and deliberately unconventional eye.

And lastly, for the first time in its history, the Louis Vuitton City Guide stops off in Tokyo to explore the many facets of the buzzing Japanese capital. Included in this reference

guide a collector’s manga created by the celebrated artist Leiji Matsumoto.

In 2009, the City Guide visits 32 European cities, including six new destinations: Bucharest, Glasgow, Lausanne, Manchester, Palermo and Saint-Tropez.

The redesigned City Guide boxes reference the heritage of Louis Vuitton, drawing inspiration from a vintage luggage label of the kind hotel bellboys would affix to travellers’ trunks.

The 10th edition invites 30 key figures to offer their personal perspective on a city they know and love, revealing a few of their top addresses: The actress Monica Belluci on Rome, the sommelier Georges dos Santos on Lyon, the opera singer Angela Gheorghiu on Bucharest or the decorator Simon Doonan on New York.

The new, more user-friendly Louis Vuitton City Guide provides for the first time schematic city maps to help travellers find their bearings and identify the address of their choice more easily.

issued by: Louis Vuitton Asia Pacific tel : (852) 2968 1338; fax: (852) 2968 1411 www.louisvuitton.com

A D V E R T O R I A L

AGLIPAY’S SUCCESSFUL NORTH AMERICAN TRADE MISSION

PDGen. Edgar B. Aglipay (Ret.), Chairman of the Philippine Retirement Authority (PRA) went on a trade mission to the US and Canada last August 30 to September to promote the Philippines as an excellent retirement destination.

Despite the gloom caused largely by the Wall Street crash, Aglipay and his team led by Lorie E. Morgia, Division Chief III, Ads and Promo, PRA Marketing Department, received an enthusiastic response from the audience.

Aglipay met with representatives of retirement organizations and Filipino associations in the US and Canada. Among these were the Hawaiian Nurses Association and the Hawaii Alliance for Retired Americans (HARA). He also talked with the Filipino communities in Kaneohe, Hawaii; Maui Island; Toronto, Canada; Ottawa and New York.

outreach programs, among others.

Jonathan Kaji, President of Kaji and Associates, pledged his assistance in lobbying for the portability of medical health insurance while Jessica Frank Lopez, AARP International Director, expressed interest in publishing PRA articles in the globally-circulated AARP Magazine.

Partnerships formed

Betty Brow and Rosemarie Aquino, Bank of Hawaii Executive Vice President and Vice President, respectively, declared their interest to introduce their international banking services to PRA. On the other hand, Mr. Dubow, from the National Association of Retirement Counselors, offered PRA his consultancy services for international stakeholders in the areas of senior living and care options; market analysis of environment and unmet needs; government relations services to coordinate with ongoing lobbying efforts, public

Concerted efforts

The combined effort of PRA and the Philippine Consulate Offices in the US and Canada helped ensure a successful initiative, not only for PRA, but for the country, as a whole.

Mandated to promote the Philippines as the preferred retirement destination in Southeast Asia, the success of PRA will accelerate the socio-economic development of the country, strengthen our foreign exchange as its provides the best quality of life to foreign retirees in a most attractive package.

Smile at life in the Philippines

The trip was also an opportunity to respond to queries regarding the portability of medical insurance to the Philippines and the medical services.

Aglipay was quick to point out the efforts being exerted to guarantee the crosscontinent insurance benefits. He extolled the Philippines’ first-rate medical practitioners and leading healthcare facilities.

PHILIPPINE RETIREMENT AUTHORITY 29/F Citibank Tower, 8741 Paseo de Roxas 1200 Makati City, Philippines For more information about the retirement program of PRA, please contact us: Hotline: +632.848.1412 +63918.985.0049 Fax nos: +632.848.7106 +632.848.1418 Website: www.pra.gov.ph E-mail: inquiry@pra.gov.ph

ESCAPE TO ADVENTURE

Adventure-seeking individuals whose lifestyles demand a compact SUV with a contemporary look, car-like handling and real SUV capability can now own one. Ford Group Philippines recently launched the new Ford Escape, which comes with an exciting array of design enhancements that complement its renowned “Built Ford Tough” heritage and funto-drive quality.

The Ford Escape’s profile signals its car-like refinement and dynamic capabilities – on-road and off-road. Its side view features larger, more aggressive wheel arches, new 16-inch wheels and a number of special design touches.

The faster profile of the new Ford Escape design begins at the front of the vehicle with the more steeply raked grille and hood shape.

A stylish new feature, often the domain of more expensive passenger cars, is the integration of the turn indicator into the side mirror. This improves overall appearance as well as adds to the visibility and function of the vehicle, giving the Ford Escape a less upright, boxy design,

another contemporary design touch for this segment.

Two stylish new colours have been introduced for the 2008 Ford Escape – Moondust Silver and Chill (light gold) – with the launch of the new model, taking the colour range to six. Other colours available are Infra Red, Ocean (dark blue), Panther Black, and Tonic (pale blue).

The Ford Escape is available in two models: Escape XLS (4x2) and Escape XLT (4x4). The 2008 Ford Escape is available at an introductory price of P999,000 for the 4x2 as a limited time offer (MSRP at P1,050,000).

Catch it at all Ford dealerships nationwide: In Metro Manila, Ford dealerships can be found in Alabang, Balintawak, Commonwealth, Edsa, Libis, Makati, Manila, Quezon Avenue and Shaw Blvd. In the provinces, Ford is in Batangas, Cabanatuan, Cagayan de Oro, Cavite, Cebu, Dagupan, Davao, Iloilo, Negros Occidental, Pampanga, SM Lipa and San Pablo. For more information, you can call 889-FORD (3673).

A D V E R T O R I A L

EVERYTHING A NOSE JOB SHOULD BE

The most common type of surgical procedure is rhinoplasty or the alteration and reshaping of the nose.

While it is easy to single out vanity as a compelling reason, it must also be admitted that rhinoplasty does have other benefits. A positive self-image keeps feelings of inferiority, awkwardness and anxiety at bay. As a medical benefit. Rhinoplasty also improves breathing for those who suffer from nasal obstructions.

While silicone remains to be the most popular implant in third world countries, more and more people are now looking at safer options. Countless cases of material rejection, nasal contraction and other complications are dictating the shift in the trend. People’s positive reaction to silicone can be very deceiving. Patients usually don’t develop instantaneous reaction to the implant and will find very satisfying cosmetic results during the first years.

As proven by the tissue samples sent for biopsy test, silicone implant causes chronic dystrophic change on the surrounding tissues through time. Calcium crystal deposits on the dystrophic muscles cause external irregularities on the skin, which explains why some patients with silicone implant experience a sandy feel when they touch their nose. Some patients also experience decrease in the nasal valve angle, which leads to nasal congestion, turbulent airflow, and breathing problems.

Dr. Levi Lansangan, a certified facial plastic surgeon at Shimmian Manila Surgicenter, explains that cartilage implant is still the best alternative nasal implant.

Working among the nasal surgery masters for several years, Dr. Lansangan has developed a technique to deliver a safe, worryfree, and silicone-free noselift using GORETEX implant, an advanced FDA approved material for the repair or enhancement of the soft tissues of the facial area including nasal augmentation.

“Healing with Gore-tex is by incorporation.

Unlike with silicone implant wherein the tissues simply encapsulate around the implant, Goretex allows the surrounding tissues to grow within and through it thus eliminating material rejection, eventual nasal contractions and other complications.”

The suppleness of Gore-Tex comes in handy particularly in cases of difficult reconstructions. These soft tissue patches offer the needed strength, flexibility and thickness for the most demanding surgical repairs. The material does not wear into loose threads making it relatively easy for the surgeon to sew the patch seamlessly.

Shimmian Manila Surgicenter has branches in Ortigas and Greenhills. For inquiries, please call 637-2924 / (0915)9260466 or visit www.shimmianmanila.com