February 2021

VOLUME 9 | ISSUE NO. 2 | RS 100 | Pages 60 ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

FEBRUARY 2021

POLYESTER - A NECESSITY HR FOCUS : Coaching your team members to higher level STUDY : Production of Local Tailor Automation in Apparel Industry Clothing from Bhimal Fibers

EDUCATION : Impact of covid 19 on Textile undergraduate student

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FEBRUARY 2021

CONTENTS COVER STORY

07 08 Application of Polyester in Technical Textile Sector : 10 An overview 13 22 HR FOCUS 25 Polyester Value Chain

PET a necessary Evil

Polyester Recycling Strategies

The emerging future for Polyester

Coaching your team members to perform at a Higher Level

STUDY : LOCAL TAILORS

26 29 35 36

Study on Production techniques used by Local Tailors

AUTOMATION Automation in Apparel Industry

51 09 47

Textile vs Technology: Created to Please or Displease?

NEWS Apparel makers demand a fresh stimulus package for the Upcoming Eid festivals LIVA Launches AW 21-22 collection, swatches at display accorss Jaipur, Tirupur and Noida LAPF Studios.

48 48

Hybrid Trade Show concept with various innovations for the Entire manmade fibres industry

49 50

The montex coat ticks all the Right boxes for coating success in 2021

Oerlikon to be operationally climate neutral by 2030

Khitish Pandya : Founder , Eco Tasar

SUSTAINABLE FIBRES

ADVERTISER INDEX

Clothing from Bhimal Fibres

TEXTILE MANAGEMENT Impact of Covid-19 Pandemic on the education of Undergraduate Textile Students and its Relative effects

EVENT REPORT

46

TECHNICAL TEXTILE

Front Inside : Rimtex Page 3 : n9 resil chemical Page 4 Yarn expo

Webinar on Technical Textile 2021

CONTRIBUTORS

FABRIC REPORT

52

Lockdown in UK and Eurpoe has drastically changed the market of import and export

EXPORT REPORT

54

Yarn export marginally up in January , Cotton EBBS

COTTON REPORT

55 56

Multiple ups and downs seen in Cotton industry

Back Page : Raymond Back Inside :Global fire

Ms. Ragini Gupta Mr. Akshat Tamboli Mr. Sayank Nandi Ms. Swaranjali Suhas Joshi Dr. Ravindra Kale Ms. Rashi Trivedi Ms.Annu Jain

CASE STUDY

Mr. Rajiv Mishra

Ikea in Mumbai

Ms. Anvita Angaonkar Dr. Pravin Ukey

Mr. Akash Deshmukh Ms. Trupti Pawar Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Ms. Mayuri Thakur Dr. Basu Mr. Vinod Chothani Mr. Nitin Madkaikar Ms. Nur Hanu Aqilah Binti Salehin Mr. Thomas P.S. Ong

6

EDITORIAL

Manmade or Natural ?

War Continues…

SUBSCRIPTION Digital + Print Copy issue 1 Year : 12 issues : Rs. 800 2 Years : 24 issues : Rs. 1500 3 years : 36 issues : Rs. 2100

Decade long fights between natural and Synthetic / Manmade fibres are still on going and always will be. Natural fibre being more sustainable and safe for environment and human body is always on priority, but as a natural land and resources are depleting , fossil fuel clothing is alternate solution mankind discovered.

Conversion from Fruits, Vegetables, Plants, Dairy products, Minerals, rocks, Animals etc are the new discovery for Natural Fibers manufacturer, Making sustainable fibers from these is not only boost to fashion industry but it also give boost to Agriculture and other industries. Fossil Fuels conversion in the different material given more opportunity to man made fibers manufacturer making fibers at cheaper rate with more value added variety . Elastic Fibers need more research and development.

Polyester, being one of the important versatile fiber and its applications has made it a wonder fibre. Although it is known that we cannot depend forever on fossil fuels for its production, it has become an indispensable in our daily lives. The controversy over polyester being sustainable as a textile materials remains debatable. Research and Development has given the world innovative textiles from new manmade fibres. The list is expanding with emerging new entrants in the textile Industry. Polyester continues to add value….

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EDITOR AND PUBLISHER All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

FEBRUARY 2021

COVER STORY

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POLYESTER VALUE CHAIN Ragini GUPTA Trainee Editor at TVC P.G Student, Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design SNDT Women’s University

T

he origin has many names and named by the companies producing it. It started with the discovery of Nylon in United States then Terylene in England. In 1951 Du Pont started selling it in the name of Dacron.

One must be aware that half of the clothes we wear are made of polyester – a man-made synthetic fiber that is derived from petrol and coal. It is made of chemical reactions between acid and alcohol in which two or molecules come together to a make a large molecule which has a repetitive nature and is relatively stronger than other fibres. For better understanding, Poly means “many” and ester means a “basic organic compound”. And the principle component of it is Ethylene which comes from Petroleum. Ethylene is also a polymer which is a chemical building block and the process that produces polyester is called “Polymerization”.

Now there are two main Polyesters sold widely – PET and PCDT. However PET is stronger the PCDT and PCDT has more elasticity then PET. PCDT is used more in home draperies and furnishings and PET

is either used alone or blended with other fibers to make it stain and wrinkle resistant.

It is normally compared with cotton – the other most important natural fiber. The comparison includes durability, breathability, accessibility, finishing and many more. One gives you more biodegradability and other is a disaster for our environment. Polyester is one of those fibers which are harmful for our environment. But since it is impossible to reverse; the world people are now trying to increase the biodegradability of polyester as well. Let us know the new changes and biodegradable solutions to the textile and fashion industry, so that even we can contribute towards the betterment of our world. Since we live in a society where we can not do without textiles, one thing we can do is use resources which are already available or can be recycled or reduced in a formal way.

Polyester is made in four forms: 1. Staple – polyester that are short in length and are easy to blend.

2. Filament – Polyester that are lengthy and are smooth as well.

3. Tow – long filaments blended

loosely to each other 4. Fiberfill – voluminous form that are used in quilts, pillows etc.

Its main properties are that it doesnot absorb moisture but oil which makes it best fabric to make it water, soil, stain and fire resistant. It is also preshrunk during the process which leads to no deformation or stretch after use. It is easily dye able and does not color fast easily.

Polyester is very useful in many industries, including textile and technical textiles. It is used in clothing, home textiles, industry driven fabrics, insulations and many more fields. It is also antiallergenic which makes it suitable to be used in bed covers, clothing and medical dresses. Polyester covers half of the textile and fashion industry due to its various properties.

Reference https://www.encyclopedia.com/ sports-and-everyday-life/fashionand-clothing/textiles-and-weaving/ polyester#:~:text=Polyester%20 is%20a%20synthetic%20 fiber,structure%20repeats%20 throughout%20its%20length.

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www.fashionvaluechain.com

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fashionvaluechain@gmail.com

FEBRUARY 2021

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COVER STORY

PET a necessary evil Akshat Tamboli

H

ow often do we see PET around us? If you observe we are surrounded with PET and its variants. From apparels to heavy industrial textiles, PET has become one of the most important fiber to humans. This is because of its amazing properties. It is strong, stable, and durable, If we compare it with natural fibers, it is cheaper with such features.

PET is resistant to water and chemicals hence, filter fabric companies use it intensively. PET is easy to care and is wrinkle resistant, unlike cotton and linen. PET can also provide warmth like wool and cloth like cotton. We can manufacture PET as per our need. The ability to change its cross-section and structure make it very useful for the aesthetic properties of fabric.

All fashion oriented industries are dependent on PET and its blends for the shine. PET is cost-effective which makes it affordable to the majority. PET has its applications in industrial and biomedical fields because of its high performance.

Exponential growth in the production of PET has been observed from 1953 to 2019. Around 66 million tons of synthetic fibers were produced of which, 51.2% is PET. The global demand for polyester fibres is dominated over other fibers. Even cotton is way behind in the second spot. Currently, Asia is the largest consuming region globally, where the fast-growing textile Industries (weaving, garment manufacturing, dyeing and finishing) have been consuming increasing amounts of polyester fibres. The worldwide marketplace

Manager Trident group of polyester staple fibre as an important candidate of the group of man-made fibres seems to have taken command of the textiles industry lately. It is expected to expand at a healthy pace, in the next few years. It is estimated that the global polyester staple fibre market, which was valued around US$ 23,400 million in 2015 is expected to reach US$ 42,400 million by 2024. In terms of volume, the market for polyester staple fibre is expected to increase at a CAGR of 4.0 per cent over the same period.

But are we not ignoring something? Are we not forgetting that PET is not biodegradable?

Yes! Defiantly PET is one the most recyclable polymer and many companies are running campaigns and even launch products like Shoes, carpets, rugs and etc. to mitigate the environmental effects. Is it helping? Not much!

Because polyester is hard to get from blends and segregation is even tougher, Even if we do start collecting and recycling polyester, the PET degrades a little more during each loop. It cannot be recycled forever.

Recent research estimates that globally, 176,500 metric tons of synthetic microfibers chiefly polyester and nylon are released into the environment every year. Microfiber pollution is predominantly linked to wastewater of clothing which releases the most microfibers, while being machine-washed, and many of those fibers elude filtration in treatment centers, ultimately ending up in water bodies.

Microfibers are a disturbingly

abundant foreign substance in the Earth’s ecosystem – they make up 90% of the micro plastic pollution in the Oceans and other major water bodies, and are easily ingested by the tiny fish and plankton that support the entire marine ecosystem.

Today, textile industry is second most polluted industry after petroleum. With every wash and every disposal of PET products we are indirectly contributing to pollution. One study from 2017 even found that 83% of global tap water samples contained microfibers.

So, is the solution is to stop buying PET and other synthetic clothing?

We do not have unlimited resources to produce natural fibers. We do not have enough land and water.

Natural fibers like wool and cotton require chemicals and much water and energy to be processed. Production of 1 kg finished cotton fabric consumes around 20,000 liters.

Buying lot of new environmentally friendly gear is still less sustainable than sticking with what we already have. In the same sense, boycotting polyester is good, but let us not forget the problem of microfibers is amplified by the amount of clothing we are producing and buying on a macro level.

Population by humans is growing and we have to fulfill everyone’s requirement because clothing is a basic need.

Conclusion Polyester is better than natural fibres in some ways, and worse in others. It has a lower negative impact, when it comes to water pollution. It has a higher negative impact when it comes to global FEBRUARY 2021

COVER STORY warming, but not by much. And for global warming specifically, it looks better than almost every other natural fabric, including hemp, linen, wool and silk. When it comes specifically to fossil fuel use, polyester is worse than almost every natural fabric.

Yes, polyester is not great. It is made from fossil fuels. It does not biodegrade, and it is uncomfortable. But sometimes, it is the best choice for a high-quality or performance garment.

We can say PET is necessary but it is not sustainable in long run we have to devote ourselves more on its replacements and try to inno-

vate and invent the new methods to recycle and reuse the PET. References 1. https://www.theguardian.com/ commentisfree/2020/oct/23/yourpolyester-sweater-is-destroyingthe-environment-heres-why 2. https://www.online-sciences. com/industries/the-importanceand-uses-of-polyesters/ 3. https://www.thehouseofpillows.eu/polyestershouldnt-be-in-your-bedblog/#:~:text=Polyester%20is%20 dangerous%20for%20the%20 environment&text=And%20it%20

can%20take%20up,of%20pollutants%20in%20the%20air.

4. https://ecocult.com/exactlypolyester-bad-environment/ V.B. Gupta and V.K. Khottari 5. https://ecocult.com/tips-synthetic-plastic-free-wardrobe-natural-fibers/ 6. https://www.eurekalert. org /pub_releases/2020-09/pscf090920.php 7. https://www.thehouseofpillows.eu/polyestershouldnt-be-in-your-bedblog/#:~:text=Polyester%20is%20 dangerous%20for%20the%20 environment&text=And%20it%20 can%20take%20up,of%20pollutants%20in%20the%20air.

8. https://www.intelligentliving. co/microfibers-what-you-can-do/

Apparel Makers Demand A Fresh Stimulus Package For The Upcoming Eid Festivals.

To help continue their business, the country’s apparel manufacturers demanded a fresh stimulus package for the upcoming Eid festivals on Tuesday.

They also sought 14 to 15 years’ time duration for payment of installments of their long-term loans.

The apparel makers placed these demands in a special meeting, organised by the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) in the city.

Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, lawmaker as well as former president of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industries (FBCCI) and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), was present in the programme as the chief guest.

A K M Salim Osman, president of the BKMEA, presided over the meeting, where Mohammad Ali Khokon, president of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), and S M Mannan Kochi,

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NEWS

vice president of the BGMEA, were also present, among others.

The business leaders said their products remained stockpiled, as the buyers cannot import goods duly for the last few months due to the coronavirus pandemic.

Besides, yarn prices and shipment charges have increased significantly nowadays, they added.

In this situation, they sought the fresh stimulus package as well as policy support from the government.

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COVER STORY

Application of Polyester in Technical Textile Sector: An Overview SAYANK NANDI Department of Textile Technology, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Serampore

I

ntroduction The mid-20th and early 21st century has witnessed a surge of synthetic fibres in the textile industry.

As per a study the synthetic market is expected to increase at 5.3% CAGR from 2017 to 2025 [1]. Lion’s share of the synthetic market is dominated by Polyester. Demand for cheap, affordable and fashionable clothes with fast changing fashion has contributed to the growth of this fibre. From sustainability point of view the fibre is not very sustainable, it consumes 125 MJ of energy per kg, also emitting 27.2 kg of CO2 per kg for production [2,3]; hence recyclable polyester is currently preferred. In spite of several sustainability concerns, the characteristics and features of this crude oil based fibre, makes it an important fibre for technical sector besides clothing sector.

Applications in Technical Sector Polyester is among the very few fibres that has applications in all 12 classes of technical textiles. The different applications of polyester in the technical textile sector are mentioned.

es, insect meshes, mulch mats, and fruit covers [4]. Its superior UV resistance, physical characteristics than polypropylene [5]; better weather resistance, lighter weight, UV resistance compared to polyamides, makes it a very useful fibre in agrotextile.

Meditech Properties like high modulus, good creep, fair resistance to acids and alkali, good chemical resistance, hydrophobicity and biocompatibility to a certain extent makes it a fibre to be used in the medical field. It can be used both as an implantable, as well as nonimplantable material.

As implantable material, different polyester structures can be used as artificial tendon, artificial ligaments, even as extracorporeal devices like artificial kidney, etc.

However for such applications protein fibres are more preferred; since it is more biocompatible and the property of polyester degrades with time. Hence it is not good for long time implantable application [6].

As non-implantable material, it can be used as bandages, since it has good resistance to micro-

Agrotech In agrotextiles, polyester is among the most used synthetic fibre after polypropylene and polyamides. It is used as sunscreen, greenhous-

organisms. It is also used for production of baby and adult diapers.

Due to its hydrophobic nature nonwoven made from polyester can hold liquid also its good

FEBRUARY 2021

dimensional stability contributing in maintaining its shape, and good wicking property it can easily transfer liquid evenly [7].

Mobitech Polyester is one of the predominant fibres used for the Mobitech applications. Properties like UV resistance, good strength properties, good compression recovery, good heat resistance and low inflammability makes it a very useful fibre for Mobitech applications. It can be used in seat covers, carpets and seat belts [8] even its composites and its nonwovens are used for mobitech applications [9].

Packtech Packaging is one of the most important applications of technical textile. Characteristics like excellent dimensional stability, UV resistance, good chemical resistance, weather resistance, hydrophobicity, proper tensile and initial modulus, can be used to manufacture non wovens, makes polyester a commonly used fibre for this application. It can be used for any kind of packing applications, PET water bottles are still used, and Tea bags are commonly

made from non-woven polyesters (Polypropylene is preferred for this application since it is inert in room temperature), even various companies uses Polyester for

COVER STORY packaging materials for shipping.

Sporttech Polyester is one of the preferred fibres for sporttech applications.

Polyester has excellent dimensional stability, good wicking effect, good soil release property, excellent heat and thermal stability, UV resistance, light weight hydrophobicity. Polyester is mostly used for high sport applications, where a lot of sweat is generated; the sweat is transferred through the capillaries by wicking effect and due to hydrophobicity it dries up quickly. Hence it can be used in different wearables for athletes [10].

Buildtech Polyester in Buildtech applications are generally used as composites to support the construction. Due to its Hydrophobicity, UV resistance, sound insulation properties it can be used along with the building applications [11].

Clothtech The application of Polyester in the clothing industry is well known, it is used for different suiting and shirting applications. Polyester is very compatible with different fibres for forming blends, Poly-cotton, Poly-wool, Poly-viscose and many other blends are very much used in the industry. Core sheath, ply structure is used for different applications like sewing threads, shoe laces.

Hometech Polyester is also a preferred material for many Hometexile applications. Soil release, good resistance to micro-organisms, fairly resistance to acids and alkalis, good drapability characteristics makes it ideal for bed sheets, pillow covers and similar applications. Good UV resistance, sound absorption characters can be used for producing curtains (Hollow polyesters however produce better sound insulation [12]. It is also used as a filtration material in air ducts.

Water proof polyester is used for

Outdoor Porch Curtains, Tents, Tarpaulins, etc. UV resistance, good dimensional stability, good busting strength properties also contribute for these applications Protech In 2020, mask has been one of the most used words. Nonwoven filters of masks are produced from Polyester and Polypropylene. SMS and SMMS fabrics are generally used for this application, even the fact polyester has negative triboelectric charges contributes to the filtration process [13].

Due to fair chemical resistance, UV resistance polyester can be used for various protective applications. During the pandemic several PPEs were made of polyester and polyester blends, however for such application polypropylene should be preferred due to its inert nature in room temperature.

Geotech Good tensile and busting strength, chemical resistance, UV resistance, creep properties makes it a very useful geotextile fibre. It is used for reinforcement applications like soil reinforcements, embankments [14], tidal barrages, prevention of soil erosion, etc.

Geo grid structures, non-woven structures can be used for separation, filtration and drainage applications of geotextile like separation of two soil layers, draining of water using wicking [15].

Oekotech Non-woven Polyester structures can be used for filtration of dusts, air filtration, etc. Different polyester structures can also be used for prevention of soil erosion.

Indutech Polyester is used for different industrial textile application for instance Bolting cloth, a mesh fabric primarily used for screen printing; Coated abrasive clothing, Decatising cloth are some of its other applications [16]. In certain cases it is also used in conveyor belts due to its high strength, creep prop-

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erties, but Nylon is preferred for such applications.

Summary of different characteristics of polyester for application in particular technical textile field Characteristics of Polyester Agrotech UV Protection, Chemically unreactive, light weight, protection from insects, busting strength, dimensional stability (for greenhouse structures).

Meditech High modulus, good creep, fair resistance to acids and alkali, good chemical resistance, hydrophobicity, dimensional stability.

Mobitech UV resistance, good strength properties, good compression recovery, good heat resistance and low inflammability, sound insulation, nonwovens used for air filters.

Packtech Excellent dimensional stability, good strength properties, UV resistance, good chemical resistance, weather resistance, hydrophobicity, water repellent is necessary for several products, Non-wovens used for tea bags.

Sporttech Excellent dimensional stability, good wicking effect, good soil release property, excellent heat and thermal stability, UV resistance, light weight, hydrophobicity.

Buildtech Hydrophobicity, UV resistance, sound insulation, good strength, low cost.

Clothtech Lower cost , UV protection, wicking property.

Hometech Soil release, good resistance to micro-organisms, fairly resistance to acids and alkalis, good UV resistance, sound absorption, good drapability, water proof polyester is also used Protech Resistance from nuclear radiation, good chemical resistance, UV resistance polyester, good filtration as SMS, SMMS fabrics.

Geotech Good tensile and busting strength, chemical resistance, UV resistance, creep properties, good FEBRUARY 2021

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filtration and drainage by different structures.

Oekotech Good air, dust filtration.

Can prevent soil erosion.

Indutech High strength, creep properties, good filtration properties, sun screen protection, screen of screen printing also made from polyester.

Acknowledgement I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Dr. Mallika Datta for in this article. The various concepts used in this article were provided by her during the classes of TT704A. References 1. Grand View Research. 2017.

Synthetic Fibre Market Size, Share and Trends Analysis Report by Type (Acrylics, Polyester, Nylon, Polyolefin), by application (Clothing, Home Furnishing, Automotive, Filtration), By Region and Segment Forecasts, 2018-2025. https://www.grandviewresearch. com/industry-analysis/syntheticfibres-market 2. Nandi, S. (OCS Team). 2020. Importance of Traceability in Textile Supply Chain. https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2020/10/ what-is-traceability-importanceof.html?m=1 3. Mateo, C.P., Meer, Y. & Seide,

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G. 2021. Analysis of the polyester clothing value chain to identify key intervention points for sustainability. Environmental Sciences Europe, 33:2. https://doi. org/10.1186/s12302-020-00447-x 4. Chowdhury, J., Nasrin, S. & Faruque, A. 2017. Significance of Agro-Textile and Future Prospects in Bangladesh. European Scientific Journal, Vol 13: 21. https:// dx.doi.org/10.19044/esi.2017. v13n21p139 5. Marasovic, P. & Kopitar, D. 2019. Overview and perspective of nonwoven agrotextile. Textile Leather Rev 0 (0). DOI: 10.31881/ TLR.2019.23 6. Rahman, M. 2012. Degradation of Polyesters in Medical Applications (Chapter). https://dx.doi. org/10.5772/47765 7. Ajmeri, J.R. & Ajmeri, C.J. 2016.

Developments in the use of nonwovens for disposable hygiene products. Advances in Technical Nonwovens.

From:Engineering Textiles (Second Edition) 2020 8. Saricam, C. & Okur, N. 2018. Polyester Usage for Automotive Applications. DOI: 10.5772/intechopen.74206 9. Landage, S.M. & Tharewal, P. 2013. Application of textile in automotive air filters. Textile Trends.

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10. Tarafder, N. 2019. Textile in Sportswear, Sports Goods and Sports Equipment-A Discussion.

Journal of Mechanical Robotics, 4(3), PP-1-10; https://doi. org/10.5281/zenodo.3524756 11. Farrukh, A. H. 2015. Textile in House Building & Civil Applications. Researchgate. DOI: 10.13140/RG.2.1.1212.3927 12. Mahmoud, A., Shenawy, G. & Ramadan, E. 2012. Using Nonwoven Hollow Fibres to Improve Cars Interior Acoustic Properties.

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 16 Issue 3, pp. 49-56. https://dx.doi.org/10.1108/RJTA16-03-2012-B005 13. Nandi, S. (OCS Team). 2020.

Cloth Masks- What are the Pros and Cons.

14. Vashi, J., Desai, A.K. & Solanki, C.H. 2013. Evaluation of PET and PP Geotextile Reinforced Embankment on Soft Soil. Procedia Engineering, 51: 19-24. DOI: 10.1016/j. proeng.2013.01.006 15. Wu, H. et. al. 2020. Review of Application and Innovation of Geotextilesin Geotechnical Engineering. Materials, 13, 1774. DOI: 10.3390/mal13071774 16. INDUTECH. Indian Technical Textile Association. https://ittaindia.org/?q=industrial-textiles-

innovative.designs.prints@gmail.com

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POLYESTER RECYCLING STRATEGIES

DR. RAVINDRA KALE

SWARANJALI SUHAS JOSHI

M.Tech student Guide Fibres and Processing Technology Department, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

I

ntroduction Polymeric materials can be classified as thermosets and thermoplastics. Thermoset polymers refer to the irreversible polymerization and this type of polymer is cured by chemical reaction or heat and becomes infusible and insoluble material. Thermoplastics are made up of linear molecular chains and this polymer softens on heating and hardens when cooled [1–6].

Thermoplastic polymers are represented by a large range of plastic materials. There are three types of thermoplastic polymers. The crystalline thermoplastics, usually translucent with molecular chains which present a regular arrangement. Compared to other types, these polymers have more mechanical impact resistance. These polymers present unique properties (physical, thermal and electrical) that make them suitable for many applications. The injection moulding process is the main technique of polymer processing which allows the fabrication of different kinds of parts, such as the computer mouse [11–15]. These plastic materials can be modelled into a variety of products for a wide range of applications due to the fact that thermoplastic polymers are inexpensive, lightweight and durable. In the last decades, the production of plastics has in-

creased significantly causing a big problem in the whole world regarding the discarded end-of-life plastics which are accumulated as debris in landfills and in natural habitats worldwide and by the management methods related to constantly growing resources of plastics. In the last years, the problem of recycled plastics was attempted to be solved by several methods (such as mechanical recycling or chemical recycling) leading to products ready to be

used in determined conditions, in the most economic, ecological and rational way [16–23]. The purpose of this review is to present the advantages and disadvantages of thermoplastic polymers used in industrial applications, the processes used in the recycling and perspectives for a green bioindustry.

Thermoplastic Polymers Due to the ideal properties of the thermoplastic polymers such as corrosion resistance, low density,

The different types of polymers utilized as plastic based packaging materials FEBRUARY 2021

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high strength, and user-friendly design, plastic usage has become much higher than the usage of aluminium or other metals. For example, density is a very important parameter because it reveals information about the intrinsic strength of the construction that is supposed to be created, as in the case of flax reinforcement when PP and LDPE are the best choices (because of their low density), since its purpose is to produce a composite that is as light as possible. The glass transition temperature (Tg) is another characteristic that is very important when studying polymer mechanical properties, because the flexibility of amorphous polymers is reduced drastically when they are cooled below Tg. At these temperatures, there are no dimensional changes or segmental motion in the polymer. Also, the mechanical properties are very important in the case of thermoplastic polymers, mostly the tensile strength (important for their performance under stress) and tensile modulus (the resistance of polymers to elastic deformation) [12, 24,31].

The main reasons which make the thermoplastic polymers used in various applications are: - The thermoplastic polymers can be processed by several methods leading to various kinds of plastic products; - They are used for a specific application several compounding, operating condition, additives, fillers, and reinforcements; - Several manufacturing systems are used at this moment to produce plastic items with the lowest cost range [33–35].

The recycling and incineration are the usual aspects of recovery methods in the case of thermoplastic polymers. The incineration presents some problems like the production of toxic gases and the residue ash which contains lead and cadmium. The recycling presents advantages such as reduction of environmental problems

and saving both material and energy [33, 35, and 36].

Advantages and Key Properties of PET Resin • It is very strong and lightweight and hence easy and efficient to transport • It is known for its good gas (oxygen, carbon dioxide) and moisture barrier properties • It exhibits excellent electrical insulating properties • PET has broad range of use temperature, from -60 to 130°C • It has higher strength and stiffness than PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate) • As compared to PBT, it also has higher heat distortion temperature (HDT) • It has low gas permeability, in particularly with carbon dioxide • PET is suitable for transparent applications, when quenching during processing • PET does not break or fracture. It is practically shatter-resistant and hence, a suitable glass-replacement in some applications • It is recyclable and transparent to microwave radiation • PET is approved as safe for contact with foods and beverages by the FDA, Health Canada, EFSA & other health agencies [38].

• Excellent resistance to alcohols, aliphatic hydrocarbons, oils, greases and diluted acids Moderate resistance to diluted alkalis, aromatic and halogenated hydrocarbons [40].

Disadvantages of PET • Flammable– This is definitely an advantage in that they can be melted down, however smouldering plastics can release toxic fumes into the environment.

• Cost of Recycling – While recycling is a plus, recycling is a very costly endeavour.

• Volume – In the United States

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20% of our landfill is made up of plastics. As more products are being made of plastics, where will this lead us in the future • Durability – This is an advantage as well as a disadvantage. Plastics are extremely durable, which means that they last a long time.

Those plastics in the landfill will be there for years.

Plastics make our lives easier, however is their cost on the environment worth it? We can only hope that soon someone will invent a way to safely and cheaply melt and reuse plastics [39].

Recycling of PET The huge amounts of PET products bottles, spinning, and packaging films cause serious environmental pollution. Commonly, PET content reaches about 12 % in municipal plastic waste. In fact, the separation of PET bottles from municipal waste represents one of the most successful examples of polymer recycling. Numerous ways of recycling disposable beverage bottles are available, including methods of chemical recycling, such as hydrolysis, amylolysis, glycolysis, etc., or physical recycling by remelting. The plastic can be degraded in the environment by four mechanisms: photo-degradation, thermo-oxidative degradation, hydrolytic degradation, and biodegradation by microorganisms. The natural degradation of plastic begins with photo-degradation due to the UV light from the sun which provides the activation energy required to initiate the incorporation of oxygen atoms into the polymer, leading to thermo-oxidative degradation. In this step, the plastic becomes brittle and it’s fracturing into smaller pieces until the polymer chains reach sufficiently low molecular weight to be metabolized by microorganisms. The microorganisms convert the carbon of the polymer chains to carbon dioxide or incorporate it into biomolecules, but this process will take at least 50 years [36]. So, a solution to these problems will be the recycling, because most

COVER STORY commodity plastics are relatively stable, making monomer recovery poor.

A driving force for PET recycling is that PET products have a slow rate of natural decomposition [12]. PET is a non-degradable plastic in normal conditions as there is no known organism that can consume its relatively large molecules. Complicated and expensive procedures need to be operated in order for PET to degrade biologically [13]. Many researchers reported that in order to achieve successful PET recycling, PET flakes should meet certain minimum requirements [13 – 16].

Description of recycling process Primary recycling (pre-consumer industrial scrap) • It is the oldest way of recycling PET and is also known as re-extrusion • Low cost, requites uncontaminated scraps and deals with only single type waste • The recycled scrap or waste is mixed with virgin material.

Second grade material (Mechanical recycling) • Secondary recycling includes sorting arid separation of waste, removal of contaminates and is also known as mechanical recycling steps • Reduction of size by crushing and grinding, extrusion by heat and reforming Tertiary recycling (Chemical recycling) • Chemical recycling is done usually by means of solvolytic chain cleavage • Tins process can either be a total de-polymerization back to its monomers or a partial De-polymerization on to its oligomers.

Quaternary Recycling (Energy Recovery) • Energy recovery is defined as the

process how companies convert post-use, non-recyclable plastics into a range of useful products such as fuels and electricity and energy recovery is turning landfill-bound plastics and waste into a reliable and renewable energy source.

In-plant recycling In-plant recycling, otherwise known as re-expulsion, is the most established method for reusing polyester family. It alludes to the in-lodge reusing of the scrap materials that have comparative highlights to the first items. The recycled scrap or waste is either mixed with virgin material to assure product quality, or used as a second grade material. This methodology guarantees effortlessness and ease, yet obliges uncontaminated scrap, and just manages single-sort wastes. It is the recycling of perfect, uncontaminated Industrial discard materials [41].

Mechanical recycling In this approach, the polymer is separated from its associated contaminants and it can be readily reprocessed into granules by conventional melt extrusion. Mechanical recycling includes the sorting and separation of the wastes, size reduction; melt filtration and reforming of the plastic material.

The basic polymer is not altered during the process. The main disadvantage of this type of recycling is the deterioration of product properties in every cycle. This occurs since the molecular weight of the recycled resin is reduced due to chain-scission reactions caused by the presence of water and trace acidic impurities. A secondary recycling process presents some unique problems that may cause it to be inappropriate for the production of food-contact articles, particularly if the recycler had little or no control over the waste stream entering the recycling facility [41].

A secondary recycling methodology introduces some special issues that might make it to be designed

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for the generation of nourishment, especially if recycler had diminutive or no power under the waste stream toward the inside reusing competence. The more unpredictable and sullied the waste is, the more troublesome it is to reuse it mechanically. Among the primary issues of optional reusing is the heterogeneity of the strong waste, and the debasement of the item properties, every time it is reused. The same predicament is the misuse of items made of the same pitch yet with different colour which usually impart undesirable grey colour. It is the recycling of clean, uncontaminated single-type waste which remains the most popular, as it ensures simplicity and low cost, especially when done ‘‘in-plant’’ and feeding with scrap of controlled history.

The recycled scrap or waste is either mixed with virgin material to assure product quality or used as a second-grade material. Primary recycling of industrial scrap produced during the manufacture of food-contact articles is not expected to pose a hazard to the consumer [44].

Chemical recycling Unlike physical recycling, chemical recycling involves transformation of polymer chain. The polymer backbone under the recycling process is degraded into monomer units (i.e. depolymerisation) or randomly ruptured into larger chain fragments (i.e. random chain scission) with associated formation of gaseous products. The chemical recycling is carried out either by solvolysis or by pyrolysis; the former through degradation by solvents including water, and the latter through degradation by heat in absence of oxygen or air, or vacuum. Chemical recycling yields monomers, petroleum liquids and gases. Monomers are purified by distillation and drying, and used for manufacture of polymers.

Chemical recycling, generally recognized as compound reusing, includes change of the PET polyester linear chains. Normally via FEBRUARY 2021

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method for solvolytic chain cleavage, this methodology is able to reverse the depolymerisation in the direction of its monomers, or a fractional de-polymerization in the direction of its oligomers and other chemicals.

Distinctive solvolysis systems included in PET depolymerisation is depicted in. Since PET is a polyester containing ester bunches, it can be effectively severed by a few reagents, for example like amine groups, acid, alcohols, water, and glycols. Additionally, PET can be shaped through a reversible poly-condensation response; subsequently, it can be changed back to its monomer or oligomer units by switching the response to the other way through the expansion of a build-up item. These low sub-atomic weight items can then be cleansed and reused as crude materials to create top notch compound items [41][43].

Among the reusing techniques, substance reusing is the most settled and the stand out as per the standards of ‘economic advancement’ which is characterized as the improvement that addresses the issues of present era without trading off the capacity of future eras to address their issues; World Commission on Environment and Improvement 1987) . This is on the grounds that concoction reusing prompts arrangement of the crude materials (monomers) from which the polymer was initially integrated. The environment is not surcharged, and there is no requirement for additional assets for the proliferation of PET. The response component for PET de-polymerization comprises of three reversible responses: (a) the carbonyl carbon in the polymer chain experiences quick protonation, whereby the carbonyl oxygen gets changed over to a second hydroxyl bunch; (b) the hydroxyl oxygen of the included hydroxyl-bearing atom gradually assaults the prorogued

carboxyl carbon atom; and (c) the carbonyl oxygen (which was changed over to hydroxyl amass in the first step) and a proton.

There are three primary techniques in PET synthetic reusing relying upon the included hydroxyl bearing particle: (1) glycol for Glycolysis, (2) methanol for Methanolysis, and (3) water for hydrolysis. Other strategies may incorporate amylolysis. From the point forward, various examination works have been done with a specific end goal to completely comprehend the synthetic pathways included in the depolymerisation routines, and along these lines, progress the yield of the desired products obtained by these methods. This process can be used with mechanical recycling as a complementation. Chemical recycling is defined as the process in which polymers are chemically converted to monomers or partially depolymerized to oligomers through a chemical reaction (a change occurs to the chemical structure of the polymer). The resulted monomers can be used for new polymerizations to reproduce the original or a related polymeric product. This method is able to transform the plastic material into smaller molecules, suitable for use as feedstock material starting with monomers, oligomers, or mixtures of other hydrocarbon compounds [41].

The chemical reactions used for decomposition of polymers into monomers are: • Hydrogenation • Glycolysis • Gasification • Hydrolysis • Pyrolysis • Methanolysis • Chemical depolymerization • Thermal cracking • Catalytic cracking and reforming

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• Photo-degradation • Ultrasound degradation • Degradation in microwave reactor According to the reagent used, different products are obtained. The main depolymerisation processes that have reached commercial maturity up to now are Glycolysis and Methanolysis. Nowadays there is growing interest in hydrolysis for the chemical recycling of PET, since it is the only method with the reaction products terephthalic acid (TPA) and ethylene glycol (EG), i.e. the monomer from which PET is produced. This is associated with the trend in the new factories for PET synthesis to produce it directly from TPA and EG, thus replacing dimethyl terephthalate (the traditional monomer) from the technological process [50].

Disadvantage of this method is the use of high temperature (200–250 ⁰C) and pressure (1.4–2 MPa) as well as long time needed for complete depolymerisation. Commercially, hydrolysis is not widely used to produce food-grade recycled PET, because of the cost associated with purification of the recycled TPA. Hydrolysis of PET can be carried out as (a) alkaline hydrolysis, (b) acid hydrolysis and (c) neutral hydrolysis [41].

Alkaline Hydrolysis Alkaline hydrolysis of PET is usually carried out with the use of an aqueous alkaline solutionof NaOH or KOH, of a concentration of 4–20 wt. %. The reaction products are EG and the disodium or di- potassium terephthalate salt, according to the chemical reaction shown below

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PET flakes were hydrolysed to sodium terephthalate and ethylene glycol (EG) in NaOH solutions before oxygen introduction. Because sparingly soluble sodium terephthalate in concentrated NaOH solutions was stable to the oxidation, the TPA yield was approximately 100 mol% under all conditions. In contrast, EG was oxidized to oxalate and CO2, and the maximum oxalic acid yields Thus, apart from the monomer (TPA) a valuable by product (oxalic acid) was obtained. Factors such as temperature, time and alkali concentration influencing the kinetics of the alkaline de-polymerization of PET in NaOH solution.

Also the choice of solvent plays an important role in the alkaline depolymerisation of PET. The main advantage of alkaline hydrolysis is that it can tolerate highly contaminated, post-consumer PET such as magnetic recording tape, metallized PET film, or photographic film (X-ray film) [14]. The process is relatively simple and less costly than Methanolysis. PET hydrolysis in aqueous alkaline solute ion was investigated by Karayiannis. PET decomposition was conducted in a 2 L stainless-steel autoclave reactor equipped with a digital temperature-control system, an agitator, and a manometer as a pressure indicator. The reaction took place with a constant NaOH concentration and different reaction-time intervals and temperatures. At the appropriate time the reactor was cooled and the reaction mixture was neutralized to pH 6.5 with H2SO4 and filtered to remove unreacted PET solids. The TPA in the mixture was precipitated by acidification with H2SO4 to pH 2.5 and the mixture was filtered and washed with methanol.

The solid TPA produced was dried

in an oven at 80 ⁰C and weighed. A great increase in the TPA yield on increasing the reaction temperature was observed. This is expected if the chemical reaction is the rate-determining step. At the highest-studied temperature of 200⁰C a TPA yield of 98% was obtained in only 1 h [41].

PET Hydrolysis in a Non-Aqueous Alkaline Solution: It has been observed that addition of an ether (such as dioxin or THF) in nonaqueous alkali solutions accelerates the rate of chemical degradation of PET [21]. One possible explanation is that ethers accelerate the percolation of hydroxide ions and increase the ionic strength of the hydroxide ion and, therefore, the decomposition of PET is increased. Methyl Cellulose is a chemical compound combining the properties of ether together with those of an alcohol. It is for this reason that this substance was selected for this study. The ether part will lead to swelling of the PET solid and the alcoholic part will support the action of KOH in destroying the chemical structure of PET during depolymerization (PET surface is easily attacked by alcohols). The addition of an ether (such as dioxane, or tetrahydrofuran (THF)) as a mixed solvent with an alcohol (methanol, or ethanol) accelerated the chemical degradation of PET. It is for this reason that the alkaline hydrolysis of PET at 110–120 ⁰C with a nonaqueous solution of KOH in methyl cellulose was selected to be studied by Karayannidis. Pellets of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in methyl cellulose and the alkali hydroxide solution was added to a glass reaction vessel equipped with a reflux condenser, an inertgas flow, a stirrer and a heating device. The reactor was immersed in

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a silicon-oil bath in order to obtain high enough temperatures. PET flakes were added intothe reactor and the inert-gas flow was started, together with the agitation. After a certain period the inertgas flow stopped and the temperature was set to the desired point. After reaching the desired temperature, the reaction time started and the PET decomposition was followed for a specified time period. After that time, the reaction mixture was cooled rapidly by immersing the flask in cold water. The mixture was then filtered to remove the un-decomposed PET solids and dried in an oven at 110 ⁰C. In the final product, 500 mL of distilled water were added, in order to dissolve all of the potassium terephthalate. The solution was filtered again and the procedure described previously for the isolation of TPA was followed [43].

Treatment processes based on partial PET alkaline hydrolysis are widely used in the polyester fiber industry.

The effect of such processes on the mechanical properties of fibers, oligomer content and change of the molecular weight distribution, or loss of fiber mass has been investigated. From the point of view of research on PET chemical recycling, an interesting relationship between PET mass loss, reaction time, and the concentration of the NaOH aqueous solution used, as well as between oligomer contents and the molecular weight distribution of degraded PET has been observed.

NaOH solutions in methanol react with PET significantly faster than analogous aqueous solutions.

Namboori and Haith have compared the reactivity of NaOH aqueous solutions, as well as solutions of sodium tert-butoxide in tertbutanol, sodium isopropoxide in FEBRUARY 2021

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isopropyl alcohol, sodium methoxide in methanol, and sodium ethoxide in ethanol with PET. They have demonstrated that, of the above-mentioned solutions, sodium ethoxide in ethanol is the most reactive and an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide is the least reactive. In the recycling of PET to terephthalates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, a process described by Benzaria may be crucial. The de-polymerization is carried out in a mixer-extruder with the use of solid NaOH at temperatures of 100–200 ⁰C. After the distillation of EG from the post reaction mixture under reduced pressure, a corresponding salt of terephthalic acid in the form of a powder is obtained. In this method the necessity of separating the glycol and water mixture is eliminated, which is undoubtedly its essential advantage. The degree of polyester saponification achieved a level of about 97% [41].

Alkaline Hydrolysis in the Presence of a Phase Transfer Catalyst Phase transfer catalysed alkali decomposition of PET taken from post-consumer soft-drink bottles, was revealed to be an efficient method for the reproduction of pure terephthalic acid. The kinetics of the depolymerisation reaction was extensively studied. The effects of temperature, alkali concentration, PET particle size, PET concentration and catalyst to PET ratio on the TPA yield were investigated. This method had been applied in PET fibres as well as Nylon-46 and Nylon-66 fibers. Very good results were obtained for the de-polymerization of PET and the yield of TPA was as high as 93%.

Kosmidis extended the use of the phase-transfer catalyst in the depolymerization of PET flakes taken from waste soft-drink bottles and the reaction kinetics was extensively studied [32].

Acid Hydrolysis Acid hydrolysis is performed most frequently using concentrated

sulphuric acid, although other mineral acids such as nitric or phosphoric acid have also been employed. In order to avoid high pressures and temperatures in the reaction vessel, a concentrated sulphuric acid (14.5 M) has been proposed by Pusztaszeri, Brown, O’Brien and Sharma. However, the process becomes very costly due to the need to recycle large amounts of concentrated H2SO4 and the purification of EG from the sulphuric acid. TPA recovery from PET scrap material in concentrated sulphuric acid at 60– 93 ⁰C has been also described (acid concentration of, at least, 87 wt.%).

EG was recovered from the final filtrate through extraction with organic solvents such as trichloroethylene. In another patent, the production of pure TPA was described by acid hydrolysis of PET in a 90 wt.% H2SO4 solution at 85–90 ⁰C. A substantial drawback of PET hydrolysis by concentrated sulphuric acid is the high corrosiveness of the reaction system and the generation of large quantities of inorganic salts and aqueous wastes. Different parameters, such as acid concentration, time, temperature and PET particle size, on the decomposition and reaction yield was investigated there.

Acid hydrolysis of PET in sulphuric acid at different temperatures and solution concentrations was reported. The depolymerisation reaction was carried out in a 0.5 L reactor equipped with a reflux condenser and a magnetic agitator. The required amount of the sulphuric-acid solution (70–83 wt.%), together with the PET flakes, was added into the reactor and heated to the desired reaction temperature (between 30 and 90 ⁰C). The agitation started in order to keep the mixture homogeneous and the reflux condenser set.

The reaction time started and the mixture was allowed to react for 3–5 h. Afterwards, the mixture was filtered to separate the TPA produced and the unreacted PET. A solution of KOH was added to the solid product. In this way, the TPA reacted to form the dipotassium salt, while PET remained unreacted. Finally, the mixture was filtered again, dried in an oven until it had a constant weight and weighed in order to calculate the percentage of unreacted PET. The depolymerisation reaction of PET with water in an acid (H2SO4) environment proceeds according to the reaction in below. The detailed mechanism of acid depolymerisation is as under [41][43].

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COVER STORY Glycolysis Another most important method in chemical processing of PET is glycolysis. This process is used widely on a commercial scale. The glycolysis reaction is the molecular degradation of PET polymer by glycols, in the presence of transesterification catalysts, mainly metal acetates, where ester linkages are broken and replaced with hydroxyl terminals [41].

manner to convert hydrocarbons of the plastic into carbon dioxide and water. The heat produced by burning plastics in the waste in the form of superheated steam can be utilized for generating electricity through turbine generators, and the residual heat from the waste stream for heating residential and industrial buildings. The melt residue from the incinerator is free from toxicity hazards and may be disposed of by landfill. Although

Quaternary recycling The energy content of the plastics waste can be recovered by incineration. When the collection, sorting and separation of plastics waste are difficult or economically not viable, or the waste is toxic and hazardous to handle, the best waste management option is incineration to recover the chemical energy stored in plastics waste in the form of thermal energy. This is carried out in special type of reactors called incinerators, to burn wastes in the presence of air in a controlled

polymers are actually high yielding energy sources, this method has been widely accused of being ecologically unacceptable owing to the health risk from air borne toxic substances such as dioxins (in the case of chlorine containing polymers). It should admit that it is not possible to have zero emission in the incineration of waste plastic. Apart from the aforementioned methods, direct reuse of a plastic material (i.e., PET) could be considered as a ‘‘zero-order’’ recycling technique [8].

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In a lot of countries, it is a common practice for PET bottles to be refilled and reused. However, this should be done with great care since plastic bottles are more likely than glass to absorb contaminants that could be released back into food when the bottle is refilled. Moreover, refilling of a PET bottle with a drink with high alcohol content may lead to degradation of the macromolecular chains with unexpected results.

Worldwide, the main end-use of post-consumer PET is for the production of fibers (almost 70%), with only 4% of PET recycled with chemical methods. Among the above recycling techniques, the only one acceptable according to the principles of sustainable development (development that meets the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs) is chemical recycling; since it leads to the formation of the raw materials (monomers) from which the polymer is made. In this way the environment is not surcharged and there is no need for extra resources (monomers) for the production of PET. This method refers to the recovery of the plastic’s energy content.

The most effective way to reduce the volume of organic materials which involves the recovery of energy is represented by incineration. This method is a good solution because it generates considerable energy from polymers, but it’s not ecologically acceptable because of the health risk from airborne toxic substances, for example dioxins (in the case of heavy metals, chlorine-containing polymers, toxic carbon, and oxygenbased free radicals). Among the above recycling techniques, the only one acceptable according to the principles of sustainable development is chemical recycling, because this method leads to the formation of the monomers from which the polymer is made [41] [50]. .

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COVER STORY Different techniques involved in polymer recycling

A fourth recycling technique, called the quaternary recycling process for plastic waste administration is concerned with the recuperation of its vitality content.

Incineration (ignition), pointed towards recuperation of vitality is as of now the most powerful approach to decrease the volume of natural material, inferable from an absence of other reusing potential outcomes.

Plastics, either thermoplastic or thermosetting, are really highyielding vitality sources. One litre of warming oil has a net calorific estimation of 10,200 kcal, while 1 kg of plastics discharges 11,000 kcal worth of vitality. For examination reason it can be said that 1 kg of charcoal briquettes have a net calorific estimation of 4800 kcal.

It was assessed that by smouldering 1 ton of waste, roughly 250 l of warming oil can be spared. Clean incineration of civil strong waste is broadly acknowledged in nations like Sweden and Germany (50 % of aggregate MSW), Denmark (65 %), Switzerland (80 %), and Japan (70 %). Albeit there exist extremely stringent discharge regulations, more than 50 reject units are working in Germany. As has been mentioned above, among the different reusing methods, the one and only satisfactory strategy as per the standards of supportable advancement is substance reusing, since it prompts the develop-

ment of the crude materials (monomers) from which the polymer was originally produced [41].

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38. omnexus.specialchem.com 39. essaylead.com 40. www.ktu.lt 41. link.springer.com 42. Vijaykumar Sinha. "Pet Waste Management by Chemical Recycling: A Review", Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 09/03/2008 43. www.electrochemsci.org 44. David E. Nikles, Medhat S. Farahat. "New Motivation for the Depolymerization Products Derived from Poly(Ethylene Terephthalate) (PET) Waste: a Review", Macromolecular Materials and Engineering, 2005 45. Claudia Pudack, Manfred Stepanski, Peter Fässler. "PET Recycling – Contributions of Crystallization to Sustainability", Chemie Ingenieur Technik, 2020 46. Trinath Biswal, Pravin Kumar Kar. "chapter 1 Plastic Pollution and Its Effect on the Environment", IGI Global, 2020 47. thisisplastics.com 48. B. Naresh, Vinod Kumar Singh, V. K. Sharma. "Integration of RF rectenna with thin film solar cell to power wearable electronics", International Journal of Microwave and Wireless Technologies, 2020 49. George P. Karayannidis, Dimitris S. Achilias. "Chemical Recycling of Poly(ethylene terephthalate)", Macromolecular Materials and Engineering, 2007.

50. www.mdpi.com

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COVER STORY

THE EMERGING FUTURE FOR POLYESTER

RASHI TRIVEDI

I

ANNU JAIN

Student Mentor Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, Sir Vithaldas Thackersey College of Home Science (Autonomous), SNDT Women’s University, Mumbai

ntroduction Polyester (PET) is the most widely used fibre in the apparel industry, accounting for around 52% of the total volume of fibres produced globally. The apparel industry accounts for around 32 million tons of the 57 million tons of polyester used each year [1]. It is used widely in technical textiles as well.

Polyester is polymerized from the monomer ethylene. Polyesters can be thermoset or thermoplastic, saturated or unsaturated. The two main types of polyester are PCDT (poly-1, 4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate) and PET (polyethylene terephthalate) [2].

PET PET is among those plastics which are an important part of your everyday life. It is an important commercial polymer having application ranging from packaging, fabrics, films, moulded parts for automotive, electronics... and many more. You can find this famous clear plastic around you as water bottle or soda bottle container.

Fig. 1: PET recycling code Polyethylene terephthalate (PET or PETE) is a general-purpose thermoplastic polymer which belongs to the polyester family of polymers. Polyester resins are known for their excellent combination of properties such as mechanical, thermal, chemical resistance as well as dimensional stability.

Polyethylene Terephthalate or PET products are 100% recyclable and is the most recycled plastic worldwide. PET can be easily identified by its recycling code #1. Low diffusion coefficient makes PET much more suitable than other plastic materials for use as a recovered, recycled material.

Post-consumer PET bottles are collected and processed through

a series of special washing processes or by a chemical treatment to break down the PET into its raw materials or intermediates which are further used to produce recycled PET (rPET) flakes. PET bottles and containers that find their way to the landfill pose no risk of harm or leaching. Since the polymer is inert, it is resistant to attack by micro-organisms, and won't biologically degrade. PET bottles can also easily crush flat and hence, takes up relatively little landfill space [3].

PCDT The process of creating PCDT polyester is similar to the process of creating PET polyester, but this polyester variant has a different chemical structure. While PCDT also consists of ethylene glycol reacted with dimethyl terephthalate, different production processes are used to make these two common polyester variations.

While PCDT polyester is not as popular as PET polyester, it is more elastic which makes it ideal for certain applications. PCDT polyester is also more durable than PET polyester, so this fabric is frequently preferred for heavy-duty FEBRUARY 2021

COVER STORY applications like upholstery and curtains [4].

Recycling process Polyester is made from recycled plastic bottles which cuts out the need for petroleum and coal extraction. Recycled polyester literally starts at the dump to collect plastic bottles that don’t belong in landfills. From there, the plastic bottles are shredded into flakes by a machine. Those flakes are melted down into pellets, then the pellets are extruded into yarn. The yarn is then knitted, cut, and sewn into clothing just like any other yarn[5]. Today, mechanically recycled polyester from plastic water bottles makes up the vast majority of recycled polyester than chemically recycled polyester [1].

Brands promoting rPET In 2017, Textile Exchange’s Recycled Polyester (rPET) Round Table created an rPET Commitment to encourage brands and retailers to publicly commit to accelerating their use of recycled polyester by 25% by 2020. 59 renowned textile, apparel and retail companies— including major brands such as adidas, Dibella, Eileen Fisher, Gap Inc., H&M, IKEA, Lindex, MetaWear, Target and Timberland—committed to or are supporting an increase in their use of rPET by at least 25% by 2020 [1].

PATAGONIA-Patagonia recycles used plastic bottles, unusable manufacturing waste and wornout garments into polyester fibres to produce clothing. Patagonia has very little virgin polyester left in their line, and are actively working to convert the remaining amount to recycled material. They use polyester in many of their products, including hard shells, boardshorts, fleece and Capilene® baselayers. For the Fall 2020 season, 84% of polyester fabrics were made with recycled polyester and in Spring 2020 season, 80% of Patagonia’s polyester fabrics were made with recycled polyester [6].

Fig 2. Patagonia Product Everlane- In October 2018, Everlane announced plans to eliminate all virgin plastics from its supply chain by 2021. 75 per cent of the plastics the company uses which primarily come from polyester, nylon and elastane used in outerwear, underwear and some sweaters were recycled. Nearly half of Everlane’s shoes were made using recycled substances, and virgin plastic has been replaced with recycled plastic in the poly bags used for shipping and distribution [7]. Everlane made a new outwear clothing ‘The ReNew Collection’ consisting of only recycled polyester products and includes no new plastic in their supply chain. The collection is incredible warm and stylish with 3 million plastic bottles renewed [8].

Fig. 3 Renew collection IKEA- IKEA is committed to end the dependency on virgin fossil materials and use only renewable or recycled materials by 2030. Today 50 percent of all polyester textile products produced by IKEA are

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made of recycled polyester, and through innovations and new designs all products will be by next year. Already IKEA uses the equivalent of 5 billion collected and recycled PET bottles in its textile product range [9].

NIKE- Yarn, soles and basketball courts are a few examples of the many products Nike creates by transforming plastic bottles, manufacturing scraps and used product into new materials. In fact, 75 percent of all Nike shoes and apparel now contain some recycled material [10]. Nike came up with programs ‘Reuse-A-Shoe’ and “Nike Grind’ where they convert waste products into playgrounds, running tracks, courts, etc. [11,12].

Fig. 4 Nike Griend and reuse the shoe Recron Greengold - Reliance is one of the largest polyester yarn and fibre producer in the world with a capacity of 2.3 million tonnes per annum. Reliance invests significant amounts on research and development in the polyester sector [13]. Greengold is a fibre which has the lowest carbon footprints globally with 25% reduction of carbon footprint. It also follows zero waste concept i.e., all the waste generated is used. No waste leaves the system.

Waste is either reused as fuel for boiler or sold for other applications [14]. Recron Greengold consists of 2 products in their rangeRecron Greengold Fibre and Tow and Recron Greengold EcoD Fibre and Tow. Applications of these fibres are in apparel, non- apparel, home textiles and high fashion [15].

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Fig. 5 Recron greengold logo Conclusion Recycling of polyester definitely helps in decreasing the manufacturing of virgin polyester; which results in less dependency on petroleum as raw material and also decreases the amount of waste PET bottles that go in the landfill each year. But even after recycling, polyester still remains a non-biodegradable fiber/fabric. rPET products will also end up in the landfill after few years of usage like a closed loop. Overall, rPET is a great step towards sustainability as it helps in decreasing the number of waste PET bottles from the environment that are thrown away. Kudos to the brands that are promoting circular economy; though the use of rPET and the brands, who have created a whole new line specially for the recycled products!

Acknowledgement: The Authors wish to thank Dr. Suman Deepak Mundkur for her valuable suggestions.

References 1. Luppino, R. (n.d.). Recycled Polyester Commitment. Retrieved from https://textileexchange.org/ recycled-polyester-commitment/ 2. Polyester. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://matmatch.com/learn/ma-

terial/polyester 3. Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET): A Comprehensive Review (n.d.). Retrieved from https://omnexus.specialchem.com/selection-guide/polyethylene-terephthalate-pet-plastic 4. Sewport. (2019, December 06).

What is Polyester Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where. Retrieved from https://sewport.com/ fabrics-directory/polyester-fabric 5. Loca, N. (2020, August 12).

Did You Know That Your Clothes Are Made From Recycled Plastic? Retrieved from https://www. n araloca.com /post /did-youknow-that-your-clothes -are made-from-recycled-plastic 6. Environmental Responsibility. (n.d.). Retrieved from https:// www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/recycled-polyester.html 7. Cernansky, R., Arnett, G., & Vogue Business Data & Insights Team. (2019, November 20). Everlane has eliminated 75% of virgin plastics from its supply chain. Retrieved from https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/ everlane-ceo-michael-preysmaneliminate-virgin-plastic-oceanapartnership 8. EVERLANE ReNew. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.everlane.com/renew 9. IKEA aims to use only recycled polyester in textile products by 2020. (2019, June 04).

Retrieved from https://newsr o o m . i n t e r. i k e a . c o m / n e w s / ikea-aims-to-use-only-recycledpolyester-in-textile-productsby-2020/s/696f91bd-99d5-49db-

8b1c-b57d4d5f4705 10. Nike's Latest Sustainable Innovations and Environmental Impact. (2018, May 15). Retrieved from https://news.nike.com/news/ sustainable-innovation-air-bagmanufacture 11. Nike Grind: Changing the Game From the Ground Up. (n.d.).

Retrieved from https://www.nikegrind.com/ 12. GET HELP. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.nike.com/ help/a/recycle-shoes 13. The Reliance Group. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://recrongreengold.com/about-us.html 14. Greenest* Fibres. Golden Heart. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://recrongreengold.com/greengold-revolution.html 15. Product Range:. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://recrongreengold.com/product-info.html Image References Fig.no. Label Link 1 PET recycling code https://omnexus.specialchem.com/_/media/ selection-guides/omnexus/polymer-profiles/pet/pet-recyclingcode.jpg?la=en 2 Patagonia products https:// www.patagonia.com/shop/recycled-polyester-clothing 3 ReNew collection https://www. everlane.com/renew 4 Nike Grind and Reuse-A-Shoe https://purpose.nike.com/reusea-shoe 5 Recron Greengold logo https://recrongreengold.com/

Creativity takes courage. – henri matisse FEBRUARY 2021

HR FOCUS

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COACHING YOUR TEAM MEMBERS TO PERFORM AT A HIGHER LEVEL Rajiv Misra R Square Consulting

I

have worked with a number of owners/founders of companies in the last 7 years. The roles that I have played range from an Executive Coach to a strategic HR Advisor. Also, as someone who helps them set up world class people practices and systems, which has a direct impact on their business results. Over the years, one aspect which keeps recurring, no matter what role out of the three mentioned above, that I am playing is “How do I as an owner/ founder help my direct reports perform at a higher level?”

Sometimes it is about their apprehension of trying to support someone who they perceive as highly qualified and experienced (and he should know how to do the job himself) and at other times, it is about their lack of knowledge of the principles of effective coaching.

It is important here to first clearly differentiate between Mentoring and Coaching. According to most experts, a mentor, is someone who offers his/her knowledge, expertise and advice, to those with less experience. By leveraging their experience and skills, mentors guide mentees in the right direction.

Wwith long term development of the mentee as the outcome. The mentor is responsible for providing the support, and provide feedback to the mentee. Mentoring relationships are normally more long-term.

Coaching on the other hand is a short term engagement with a clear goal of improving the performance of the client in a short time frame with clear performance parameters. The coach normally progresses the client along a co- created path through asking thought provoking questions and reflection on the part of the client. Coaching is a development process whereby, an individual meets/interacts on a regular basis to clarify goals, deal with potential stumbling blocks, and improve their performance.

As an owner/founder or a leader in an organization you may be playing both the role of mentor and coach based on the situation, however, in this article we will be discussing only the aspect of coaching.

Certain questions which come up to your mind of could be: a. When should you coach someone? b. How does one coach a team member or what should be the process of coaching? c. What are the benefits of coaching?

A coaching conversation is a formal and structured event with a very clear aim or a goal. In most cases, the aim of the coaching conversation is the improvement in the performance of the person being coached in a specific aspect. There is no limit to how long the coaching session should be although most experts believe that

a 60 to 90 minutes duration of a focused session is most effective.

In a work environment, when you as a leader are coaching a team member, the coaching conversation on a specific issue could take as less as 30 minutes.

In this article, I would like to focus on how an owner/founder/leader in an organization can use coaching to improve the performance of his/her team member. So let us move to the first question that I posed earlier i.e. When should you coach a team member?

Ideally a coaching conversation should take place in the following situations: a. Developing high potentials in the organization. b. Helping a team member develop long-term goals and to help him/her in achieving the same. c. When a challenging task / project is given to a team member and the team member is struggling with an issue/problem with a business goal or managing people. d. Improving performance. These could be in the following situations i. He/she misses timelines more than once. ii. A good performer starts to make mistakes/errors or the performance starts dipping. iii. The team member becomes angry/upset or starts having workplace conflicts with others in the team.

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Let us now move to the second aspect, which is, how does one coach a team member? In an ideal situation, the coaching conversation should take place as soon as possible to the event which triggered the coaching conversation.

This ensures that the event is fresh in the mind and remedial steps if required, are taken as soon as possible. The following process is recommended for making the coaching conversation more effective. a. State the issue you want to discuss first. It could be goal setting of key behaviour change for next one year, to find a solution for an issue that the team member is facing or performance related. b. Take time to listen and understand the team members perspective. Provide examples or ask for them to ensure that both of you clearly understand the issue and the outcome, that both of you are aiming to achieve. c. Ask open-ended questions to

encourage the team members to give out their views, use active listening techniques to ensure that the team member feels that, you are interested in understanding his/her perspective. d. Once there is a shared understanding of the issue, shift the conversation to the next steps with a clear plan with timelines and monitoring framework. e. Set up a process by which the team member can get in touch with you, in case of any issues being faced by him/her. f. Appreciate and recognise the team member and let the team member know that you have confidence in him/her.

Coaching your team member has multiple benefits, a few of them are: a. Improved performance of the team member b. Higher team engagement and alignment with organization and

owner/founder. c. The process makes the team feel empowered and encourages them to take responsibility and become more accountable. d. Openness to learning and self development. e. Team members become more self aware and involved.

As a owners/founder, you wear multiple hats and there are so many things which you have to do to keep your business growing. Coaching key team members seems to be another task which just adds to the things that you have to do in a day, however, taking time out for coaching could be the most important thing that you can do as the benefits are tremendous in terms of business outcomes. So take time out of you very busy schedule and start spending at least an hour every week to coach a team member.

You would be surprised at the results after 6 months!

S T U DY : L O C A L TA I L O R S

STUDY ON PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES USED

BY LOCAL TAILORS ANVITA AJGAONKAR Student of Fashion Designing, NIFT, Gandhinagar

A

bstract Sewing has an ancient history estimated to have begun during the Palaeolithic Era. Sewing was used to stitch animal hides together for the indispensable necessity such as clothing and shelter. Clothing has always been an integral part of a human’s life. Self-expression and fashion trends are practiced by the clothes they wear. Sewing is practiced since civilizations

and the first sewing machine was introduced in 1755. This paper is a survey on a certain segment of tailors, since they are at the proximity to ITI institutes. The research identified the problems and analysed, the need of upgrading their skills in respect to the finishing of seams, handling of fabrics, fitting issues, knowledge of tools, change of needles and pressure foot for different operations. Studied and observed their process of finishing garments and quality of a garment. The tailors were also suggested schemes or institutes

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if provided by the government to join, also took their take on it if they would be willing to be upskilled.

Keywords: Fashion, Government schemes, History, Individuals, Quality, Upskilling.

Introduction Living in a world that keeps on evolving, fashion describes the personality of a person. The quality and look of the clothing are of utmost importance, which attracts opportunities from the various market segments. Today's in-

S T U DY : L O C A L TA I L O R S dustry faces increased customer demand from individuals, hoping for customizable products in a shorter duration. In the making of the final garment, there are a couple of procedures. Measurements are taken; accordingly, the pattern is made and placed on the fabric, ready to be cut. Pieces are bought together, and an entire garment is made with the help of a sewing machine to stitch using seams, interlocks, and hemming for quality enhancement. As observed, most local tailors cut the pieces without keeping in mind the shrinkage and the body's shape leading to an ill fit. They use one type of needle for all the fabrics irrespective of the kind of material used.

Fabrics used are categorized into very fine, light, medium and heavy weighted. Different needles vary upon different fabrics for example, 8, 9 and 10 number needles are used for very fine, 11 and 12 number needles are used for lightweighted, 14 number needles are used for medium weight, and 16 number needles are used for heavy weighted fabrics such as denim, corduroy. The local tailors use one kind of presser foot for all types of zippers and piping, which disturbs and foils the garment's entire look. Presser foot is a part attached to a sewing machine that holds the fabric down under the needle as it is sewn. It is changed according to different operations for zippers and pipping single presser foot is used while the invisible foot is used for concealed zippers. As the garment is towards finishing, seams play a significant role in sustaining the garment for a longer time. Most of the local tailors avoid seams which leads the quality to degrade further. Thus, it affects consumer behaviour by looking for qualitative products leaving the local tailors at a considerable disadvantage and adversely affecting their income.

There is a need to understand the skills and quality produced by the tailors and providing them with a solution on skill development which will indeed help in their

being better informed on the different kinds of seams, the importance of different needles and the advantages of presser foot leading to a favourable quality of the product as per customer requirement.

Literature Review “The need for a robust framework starting from a skill development program for the tailors that assesses present skill levels imparts skilling and upskilling training. It should also provide quality infrastructure, develop a better working environment, sustainable and enhanced income with social security for tailors and most importantly, improved customer satisfaction leading to increasing in fabric sales. To enable this, we have set up the first of its kind Centre of Tailoring Excellence in Thane. Raymond has instituted certification-based skill-building programs for Master Tailors, Karigars as well as for students entering the tailoring domain. The main objective is to skill the community to impact the quality of garments and provide a sustainable livelihood. A skilled tailor must know the complete process of measurement, drafting a pattern, stitching, and finishing off any garment as per industry standards. We tapped into the PMKVY RPL scheme and conducted an upskilling program for our master tailors and conducted an upskilling program for our master tailors and Karigars across our network. The courses were further customized by introducing few topics like Understanding Body Types, Introduction to Seasonal Collections, Raymond Certified Quality parameters for Shirts, Trousers, and Jackets as well as Introduction to Pattern-based drafting techniques. This course was aligned with Self-Employed Tailor NSQF LEVEL 4.” Raymond boosts Skill India mission through a sustainable tailoring ecosystem in India.

Nagori Neeta (2017) in her study stated that, “In today’s global era, peoples are demanding for more personalized tailors, designed

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garments. The most prime process in garment production is sewing. The final look of the garment is successful when the sewing is proper.

Ultimately the proper sewing leads to many factors. So, this paper explores the survey of 100 tailors in Gandhidham and Adipur unit, the researcher identified and described certain factors such as selection of needle according to weight of fabrics, brand of sewing machine, brand of needle, cost of needles, needle size, breaking of needles in a month, stitch problems and musculoskeletal pains faced by tailors. So, a study on “sewing related problems amongst 100 tailors in Gandhidham, Adipur units of Kutch Region” was done. In this study, tailors were suggested to use organ needles as its price is comparatively more, but it breaks very less and ultimately it will be profitable for tailors as it saves time as well as minimizing ergonomically problems, such as eye–strain, increases productivity leading to proper functioning.”

Objective The objective of this study is to explore the quality and skills of local tailors and their awareness of the different kinds of seams, needles and presser foot, fabric understanding and handling, and quality of the product (that includes fit issues). To suggest improvisation in productivity and efficiency that will benefit their livelihood.

Methodology Five tailors were visited, those who work in GH-0, Infocity, Gandhinagar. The data was collected based on qualitative and quantitative information. They were interviewed using a set of pre-planned questions. They were observed during their work, the way they prepared the pieces and stitched them together. Images were taken while they worked. Observations were based on personal visits and image references of their work to draw conclusions.

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Results and analysis For conducting the research, a questionnaire was adminstered.

Five tailors who work independetly in Infocity were interviewed and observed. Questions were asked regarding how long they are in this business, from where they have learned, the stitching charges they apply on a piece of garment, whether they have knowledge only related to altering or can make new pieces, their monthly earnings, etc. The work they were currently doing and some of the pieces they worked on was observed. 60% know only related to menswear and how to construct pants, whereas the rest 40% can make only women's wear. Tailors reported that they can alter a garment in 15-20 minutes by using plain seams and without cutting the extra ease. It was observed that the latered garment looks bulky at the parts where alteration is done and uncomfortable when worn. According to observation, at least 45 minutes to 1 hour was taken by the local tailors to alter the garments by properly fitting, trimming, and stitched with appropriate seams.

There are thirty-three types of presser foots, which have different operations. Out of these thirty-three, certain common presser foots are commonly used in the market: all-purpose presser foot, zipper/piping foot, and invisible zipper foot. As observed, the tailors used zipper/piping foot for all the operations, from attaching pieces to stitching an invisible zipper; this leads to uneven stitching, uneven attachment, and quality degradation of the product.

Another problem that was observed during the study was the fit issue. Specific tools such as the french curve (use for the armhole and neck shape), pattern master, hip curve and leg curve help understand and attain a proper shape of the desired body size. The local tailors need to understand variations in body shapes, which will

help in improving efficiency and better providing. Hence, avoiding chances of fit issues that occur most of the times.

Mr. Mahendra

Length of the trouser reduced; end of the trouser having the hem was cut and attached to the trouser after reducing its length giving it unfinished look from inside

No casing given for the elastic, hence giving it a bad shape and degradation in quality.

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Extra ease left at the crotch hence bulking and no interlocking is done which results is removal of threads Summary and Conclusion No casing given for the elastic, hence giving it a bad shape and degradation in quality. After interviewing and analysing the local tailors, they do not have enough knowledge about what affects the quality of products that they deliver to their customers. After questioning them if they would learn further to enhance their skills, the answer was no, due to financial issues, some of them believed that, they have gained enough knowledge, and some were not interested to learn more. According to one respondent, to learn more he needs to spend money which he cannot afford and if he spends money in learning, his family needs will not be sufficed. His main concern was, that he is the only earning member and ₹2,000- ₹3,000 he needs to take back home for his family. If the government provides under Skill India mission a short course for educating the tailors and upskilling their knowledge, it would be considered. If some incentives were provided to these tailors for upgrading their skills, they would not hesitate to learn. It will also suffice their family needs.

After doing thorough research and proposing the above hypothetic scheme 60% were ready to learn further, as it would benefit their livelihoods. The rest 40% believe that they have mastered the skills of tailoring.

References 1. Madhuri Dubey, ‘Raymonds boosts Skill India mission through a sustainable tailoring ecosystem in India’ January 23, 2019. Available on https://www.nationalskillsnetwork.in/raymond-tailoring-ecosystem/ 2. Nagori, Neeta. (2017). A Study on the Functioning and Problems of Tailors of Gandhidham and Adipur Region of Kutch.

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AUTOMATION IN APPAREL INDUSTRY Dr. PRAVIN UKEY

Akash Deshmukh

Trupti Pawar

DKTE Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji

A

bstract Automation is most often defined as, "automatically controlled operation of an apparatus, process or system by mechanical or electronic devices that take the place of human organs of observation, effort, and decision". The purpose of this paper was to investigate the status and the effects of technology adoption on the level of organizational factors within the context of the apparel industry.

Introduction Definition Automation is often defined as, "The automatic operation of an instrument, process or system by mechanical or electronic devices that replace human organs for observation, effort, and resolution". The intensified competition in the global market, it became important for manufacturers to thrive, to gain sustainable competitive advantage by innovations in technology or concepts as well as in production. Typical production in the garment manufacturing process still involves large manual operations and automatic assembly. Garment manufacturing is still more labour intensive than technical work, so the need for technical support may not be significant in apparel industry technology. Faced with the rising cost of labour, advanced textile manufacturing technologies have been called upon to increase productivity and produce high-quali-

ty goods, at high volume, in short cycles, at low cost [1].

The adoption of advanced technology is a way to improve such areas and meet export standards.

Recent automation in apparel industry includes computerized data monitoring, computer-aided designing, automatic fabric spreader, automatic fabric cutters, high-speed sewing machines, advanced pressing and finishing machines, etc. This contributes to the development of advanced goods in the global supply of clothing and provides a new understanding of how manufacturers can embrace technology and remain competitive in the global market.

The need for Automation in Apparel Industry The adoption of technology has emerged as an important competitive decision in recent global trade. The most important reasons for moving toward more mechanization and automation are to be able to reduce cost or to increase production without increasing cost. If the industry can decrease the cost per item, it will increase production without increasing total cost. The ability to increase the quality without increasing cost per item was nearly as important.

Flexibility, quality, inventory reduction, efficient production cycle, and shorter lead-time in manufacturing became essential for firms to achieve global competitiveness. It is apparent that reducing cost and improving production capacity are most important for firms, which are seeking

an increased share of the market today. The common introduction and adoption of new technologies become an important factor in the competitive advantage of the global market because firms can maintain rapid responses and market demands using technology [1].

Developments in various department of the garment industry CAD CAD stands for Computer-Aided Design. It is nothing but the use of computer in the creation, modification and optimization of a design. CAD software is used to improve the efficiency and productivity of a designer by providing a tool using which, they can visualize how the 3D model of that product design will look like.

CAD is used in many applications including automotive, ship building and aerospace industries and many more. CAD also widely used to produce computer animation and to produce special effects in movies. CAD plays important role in designing and manufacturing industries [2]. Nowadays, CAD software becomes an essential tool for fashion designers and garment manufacturers by providing functionality such as pattern making, virtual test fitting, pattern grading, marker making etc. With the help of CAD, software designers can visualize the final product and can inspect these models to make modifications. Along with the conversion of the 2D model into the 3D model, the system also provides tools to give animations FEBRUARY 2021

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to these products so that movement of that product can be visualized. In addition, we can rotate the model to view it from all angles. Hence, with this 3D modelling, there is no need to make a physical sample and every design can be stored online for future reference [3].

3D Designing 3D designing in garment industry refers to the draping of 2D digital pattern pieces on virtual mannequins followed by making changes according to the requirement of designs. Later on, this virtual garment can be displayed on the real body by making an actual garment. Various computer-aided design systems for visualizing 3D designs have been already introduced into the garment industry [4].

Spreading development Spreading is the process of the unwinding of fabric rolls on long and wide tables for cutting. It is the basic step to get a high-quality final product, so it should be done precisely. Several fabric layers to be spread depends upon several garments to be stitched. Spreading can be done manually or with the help of machines. Fabric spreading machine is used for bulk production.

Intellocut software This system works at the fabric utilization stage i.e., at cutting department. Before cutting of garment pieces, it is important to spread fabric correctly. Intellocut helps us by providing features like planning automation, paperless execution, providing warning signals and real-time visibility.

• Planning Automation- Intellocut helps us for automatic planning with the assistance of artificial intelligence by providing the most efficient cut plan.

• Paperless Execution- Intellocut controls key processes such generation of the lay plan with the help of system or tablet application by avoiding any paperwork.

• Warning Signals- Intellocut software can immediately replan cut plan on one click after getting any negative feedback from the cutting department.

• Real-time visibility- Intellocut tracks fabric usage or wastage with the BOM vs actual reporting.

This will give us a clear idea about the current scenario of cutting department [5],[6].

specially treated water or an abrasive agent may be used. A fine jet of water is passed through a nozzle at a very high speed to cut the fabric. The pressure of water is nearly 60,000 pounds per square inch. The high-pressure water jet acts as a solid tool when it cut the fabric [10],[11].

Figure 1: Process flow of Intellocut system (source: Intellocut) Cutting Cutting is the process of cutting fabric into garment pieces. This department is responsible for the cutting of fabric and feeding of that cut parts to the sewing department. After marker making, garment parts are cut and taken out of layers. Cutting can be done manually or with the help of machines. Various cutting technologies like straight knife cutting, band knife cutting machine and computer-controlled automatic cutting machines are available.

Gerber Cutter (Blade) Gerber introduced the world’s first automated cloth cutting machine, which brought a revolution to the apparel industry.

Figure 2: Gerber Blade Cutter (Source – Gerber)

Key features of Gerber Blade Cutter: 1.

Easy to use- Gerber cutter is user friendly; an operator can learn within a few hours; how to operate Gerber cutter and can rely on its built-in intelligence, to guide them through any cutting task.

2. Maximum throughput- Machine helps us for quick and accurate setup. Moreover, its self-adjusting intelligence allows an operator to start cutting faster with higher efficiency. It improves productivity and workflow; the output of the machine is cut parts hence it reduces lead-time.

3. Optimal first-run yield- Machine makes a fine balance between cut speed and part quality. It maximizes the speed of the machine only when it is giving optimum quality in the final cut parts.

4. Uptime- Operator can replace knife-sharpening stones in few seconds and get up to three times more usable life than traditional stones.

5. Metrics that matter- It provides easy to understand metrics conFEBRUARY 2021

AU TO M AT I O N taining certain parameters like total cutting time, idle time, the time between jobs, total units cut and more. By using this parameters management team can manage the workflow of processes.

6. Integrated data sharing- Gerber cutter can integrate with CAD and automatic Spreading the machine and help to save time and reduce errors by making the system more visible.

Simply machine can scan a barcode to retrieve a specific parameter so there is no need to search for a file and manually enter details like ply count and material type etc. [7].

Plasma Cutting Plasma cutting was originally invented to fulfil the need for accurate cutting of stainless steel and aluminium. However, nowadays plasma cutting can be used in the apparel industry to cut the fabric.

In this system, cutting is carried out utilizing a high-velocity jet of high temperature ionised gas (Argon). This method can cut the plies of fabric at a faster rate but it leads to the problems related to the quality of cutting [8],[9].

Figure 3: Plasma Cutting Machine (Source – Clothing Industry) The plasma cutting can be used to cut one or more plies of fabric at a time by using a special gas (Argon), which becomes plasma at 30000 °C. The fabric is cut with higher speeds by the nozzle, which is made up of argon gas.

Water jet Water jet cutting machine is a machine in which cutting is carried out through high-pressure jet of water. For this purpose, either

Figure 4: Water Jet Machine (Source – ETMM Online) Laser cutting machine In Laser, cutting machine cutting is carried out through a ray of light in very fine spot by using the laser. This machine is widely used in leather and apparel industry.

A computer controls the cutting head. Fashion designers are mostly selecting laser cutting in the garment industry. In synthetic fabrics, the laser melts the synthetic fibres and fuses at the edges, which result in getting well-finished edges; this will avoid the problem of fraying of fibres at edges of cut parts produced by conventional knife cutters. In laser, cutting a laser is used to cut the fabric into the desired shapes of patterns. A very fine laser is focused on the fabric surface, which increases the temperature and cutting takes place through vaporization. Generally, gas lasers (CO2) are used for cutting of fabric [12].

Figure 5: Laser cutting machine (Source – Core.ac.uk) The only limitation of laser cutting is the number of lays of the fabric that can be cut. This cutting is best suited for cutting of single or a few lays, but the accuracy and

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precision are not obtained with a greater number of plies. So most preferably, this cutting machine is used for cutting of single-ply.

Sewing Automatic sewing machine Sewing machines plays a crucial role in constructing the garment, by stitching the fabric pieces together with the help of thread.

The sewing machine was invented during the first industrial revolution (18th to 19th century). Sewing machines have been leading a change amongst the apparel industry from manual sewing to automatic sewing and have enabled operators to create garment at the tip of their fingers. This automation has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the apparel industry. The effects of the automation in the apparel industry have led to major changes in other industries as well. Like fabric, manufacturers have made to produce more fabric to match the need of apparel industry [13], [14].

Automation has done in various types of machines like single needle lock stitch, double-needle lock stitch, overlock, button stitch, buttonhole machine, etc. This can be achieved by using work aids. Following are a few examples of automatic sewing machines.

Surging Surging is nothing but overlock at the edges. It is mainly done for trousers. The automatic surging machine needs to feed just trouser pattern and the machine will automatically surge both the edges of the pattern. After surging is done, the machine lays those patterns on the handle.

Here is a normal sewing process, there are two different operations for each edge of the pattern, but in an automatic sewing process, it is completed in a single operation [16].

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AU TO M AT I O N inputs to the machine-like distance between two holes, type of buttonhole, etc. [16].

Figure 6: Auto Surging machine (Source – Juki) Computer-controlled cycle machine with an input function Cycle sewing has been very popular in the apparel industry. Cycle sewing machine includes a small operation panel box for data input and a clamp to hold the pattern.

The operator just needs to feed the input the parameters of sewing are like length width, stitching path, etc. and clamp the pattern.

Then the machine will automatically stitch the pattern as requested [16].

Figure 7: Computer-controlled cycle machine with input function (Source – Juki) Pocket attaching machine Welt pocket stitching is one of the critical operations amongst the all. This process includes 3 to 4 pieces for stitching and around 4 to 6 operations. This automatic pocket-stitching machine makes this operation easy by performing all the operations at a time [16].

Figure 8: Computer-controlled cycle machine with input function (Source – Juki) Automatic belt-loop attaching machine For belt loop attaching, there are three processes, which is belt loop making, cutting and stitching. The belt-loop sewing shape and sewing size can be easily changed through the operation panel. This machine not only reduces the time required for the belt attachment process, but also achieves labour saving, such as the completion of the previous process i.e. belt-loop cutting [16].

Figure 9: Automatic belt-loop attaching machine (Source – Juki) Buttonhole indexer Computer-controlled buttonhole indexer is newly renovated nextgeneration buttonhole machine supplied with the preset mechanism to increase productivity and sub-clamp mechanism helps to achieve both accurate and consistent buttonholing quality. It has one operational panel box to give

Figure 10: Button Hole making machine (Source – Juki) Other machinary Apart from this, there are many other industrial sewing machines like pocket creasing and setting, automatic presser-foot force control. Additionally, shirt front contour seamers, automatic hemmers, automatic surging of a panel with four sides surged, automatic cuff makers, ultrasonic sewing, belt turners with air-operated, cuff shapers are contributing in the automation of the garment industry [17].

GSD GSD stands for General Sewing Data, which gives accurate data to calculate SMV for precise costing, line balancing, capacity, and efficiency calculations and to improve workers performance. During the production, unbalanced sewing lines result in bottleneck formation. Uncertain production capacity results in missed delivery times, production break time and overtime. Inefficient SMV calculations cause incorrect costing and production capacity. To overcome all these issues GSD provides the ability to design and measure each step or process in a production process, from cut pieces to packaging [19].

To measure each step GSD makes FEBRUARY 2021

AU TO M AT I O N the work performed by a sewing machinist broken down as follows: 1. Get part or parts and match 2. Pre-form and/or put parts to machine foot 3. Sew parts together align or add parts between bursts 4. Trim threads 5. Put parts aside GSD develops a common language (GSD Codes) to establish real-time production and costs, as well as a tool to create cost-effective production or production opportunities. Each code has a time value attached expressed as TMU’s (Time Measurement Units).

It establishes ‘International Time Standards’ using the appropriate predetermined ‘Motion Code’ for each step in the Operation Bulletin. GSD provides a scientific, truth-based method of estimating and improving production methods and costs. Also, accurately and consistently establishes ‘International Standard Time’ for clothing and other products are sewn in the Apparel Supply Chain. These results in 1. Accurate Costing 2. Increase productivity 3. Lesser the defects 4. On-time delivery and 5. Improve workers performance.

This process, then creates an accurate and consistent Methods Database for the organisation. This database can be used further for a different style of production. The standard values set by GSD are accurate, the breakdown of the process, is easily understood and therefore greater efficiency is obtained. Managers and supervisors can gain the value understanding within the short-term training.

ETON

Figure 11: ETON System (Source –Textile Pedia) ETON in the garment industry is fully automated and highly flexible material handling system, which designed to minimize manual material handling. This system helps to improve productivity, quality of a finished garment.

Technically this system consists of overhead conveyors on which individual carriers are placed. These carriers consist of several clamps in which all parts of the single garment are hanged. These carriers are moves automatically finding its way to the correct next operation, according to pre-determined operations. This movement is monitored by computer and provides all necessary data required for monitoring and managing the process of the production line.

The system can be easily modified according to distinct changes in the operation cycle, that is why it is considered a highly flexible system.

When an operator performs his / her operation, he/she will push a button placed on one side of a sewing machine. The system will actuate and the carrier is passed to the next operation. When a carrier leaves its place and moves to the next place it is recorded by the data collection system.

This system minimizes manual material handing because of which improves lead-time, improves ergonomics and substantially shorter throughput time, improves efficiency may vary from 30%-100%. ETON system is the most valuable investment made

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by garment industries from all over the globe.

Additionally, with minimum manual handling, the system helps to keep floor clean and workstation free from bundles of garment parts. In this ETON system, material-handling methods are based on ergonomics. With this system, it is possible to move material up to the distance of one centimetre from operation workstation. All opening, retying, reaching, lifting, pulling of bundles and work in process of bundles can be eliminated. Because of the application of this system, operator experiences fewer injuries, less fatigue, which reduces absenteeism. Pain and injuries at the shoulder and neck are a common type of injuries causes in this system [20].

Finishing and packing Vapour (Steam) press Ironing can be a daunting, timeconsuming and tedious task. Using steam iron helps to give your clothes a crisp and polished look and makes ironing faster than before. New types of machines use steam because steam makes the job faster. Research proved that for wrinkle-free and super crisp clothes, steam is a key. Automatic vapour or steam press makes the pressing easy and effective. For this, the industry needs a separate boiler where steam will be produced. This one can be achieved via the use of “Vapour-Phase durable press”, finishing the garment so that it is virtually wrinkle-free for the consumer. This process, called the Ameriset process, involves the treatment of apparel with formaldehyde gases in a sealed reaction chamber. Several advantages are listed, including abrasion and crease resistance and retention of hand as well as tensile strength [21].

Another way of automatic pressing is by using a buck press machine.

Its design varies as per the type of garment e.g. jacket, trouser, shirt, etc. It usually comes with blowing suction for the stability of the FEBRUARY 2021

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garment. During operation, the machine releases a high amount of steam provided from a boiler to give more pressure on the garment to give it a perfect shape and wrinkle-free look.

Automatic folding machine Automatic garment folding machine is a very interesting equipment, which will be used to fold almost any garment that a manufacturer should want to fold, before distribution for sale. This automatic folding machine can make the folding operation in almost half of the time taken by the manual way. Previously with manual folding the time required for folding one T-Shirt was 30–35 seconds. However, with an automatic folding machine, this time reduced to 8–10 seconds. The operation of the machine requires a small person (manual) involvement, which is a great help to an organization that is always looking for time to save [22].

Figure 12: Automatic T-shirt folding machine (Source – IRJET) It will work as a semi-automatic process; Users only need to place the clothes on the folding tray of the machine. The machine will pick them up for folding, as the operator presses the button. For this, operator needs to give input command to the machine with a folding pattern of the garment.

The standard apparel industry style, in terms of T-shirt wraps, is now done quickly and requires little attention or monitoring. This machine can help users to reduce their load and is very useful for us-

ers with bulk folding of shirts. The distribution and sorting of garments are time-consuming and subject to manual error. Automation in this field saves time and error-free distribution of garments can be achieved.

Packing Packing is the last operation in the garment-manufacturing unit.

After folding is done, the garment pieces now need to be packed properly as per the buyer’s need.

Automatic garment bagging system contributes to making automation in the garment industry.

This automatic equipment accepts garments of any length and on any type of hanger. A standard monorail system delivers garments to the packing. Packing material is supplied on a roll, and the bottom of the garment is sensed, the length of the garment determines the length of the bag and the garment is packed [23].

Figure 13: Automatic bagging (packing) system (Source – Tech Systems UK) Because of the flexibility of the equipment, garments can come to the packer in random assortment and still can be packed in the correct length of the bag, all without any direct operator labour.

Conclusion New and innovative things in the industry will not wait; certainly,

the industry itself cannot wait, due to the pressure from importers and competitors constantly forcing testing and equipment changes. The various machinery in automation of the apparel industry to cope up with the changes required by the fast changing fashion were reviewed. The automation from the spreading to the finishing and final packing of the apparel industry gives an overview of the recent developments.

References 1. Automation in Textile Industry, Dr. Nitin S. Choubey, Manish Agrawal, HOD Computer Science & IT Dept. NMIMS Shirpur, India, 2 Ph.D Scholars, NMIMS, Shirpur, India, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes ISSN 2395-3578, Vol. 2, Issue 1, January 2016 2. Abu Sadat Muhammad Sayem, ‘Objective analysis of the drape behaviour of virtual shirt, part 1: avatar morphing and virtual stitching’, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 10:2, pages 158-169, 2017 3. Laurel D. Romeo, Young-A Lee, ‘Creative and technical design skills: are college apparel curriculums meeting industry needs?’, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 6:3, pp 132-140, 2013.

4. Abu Sadat Muhammad Sayem, Richard Kennon, Nick Clarke, ‘Resizable trouser template for virtual design and pattern flattening’, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 5:1, pages 55-65, 2012.

5. https://www.threadsol.com/ request_a_demo cited on 30 October.

6. http://www.threadsol.com/intellocut, cited on 30 October.

7. https://www.dksh.com/globalen/products/tex/gerber-cutter-

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CLOTHING FROM BHIMAL FIBRES Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Business Head (Dyes ), Shree Pushkar Chemicals and Fertilisers Ltd

B

himal is the local name of a deciduous tree species called Grewia optiva. Other vernacular names are bheku, bhekua, and bhimu. In ancient times, the local dwellers of Uttarakhand made clothes out of Bhimal plant fiber.

Grevia optiva, locally known as “Bhimal”, is a perennial, evergreen tree which is 45 feet tall and 4.5 feet in girth. Its leaves make good fodder for livestock, bark of branches gives a Bast fiber made up of Sclerenchyma tissue, which upon maturing comprises dead cells with heavily thickened walls containing lignin and 60%–80% cellulose, which provides structural support.

Bhimal grows abundantly near cultivated land in Chamoli and Pauri districts of Uttarakhand, found from lower Garhwal and Kumaon Himalayas to 7000 feet.

It is a farmer’s area specific tree that contributes to their economic growth and which is environment friendly.

Production of Bhimal Fibres Grewia optiva (bhimal) is a popular tree found near agriculture fields in the hills. It occurs naturally in the field bunds and is conserved by the villagers for its multipurpose utility. It is considered as a family tree of inhabitants. Every family has got 6-8 trees at lower altitude and 10-12 trees at higher

altitude. Normally the tree is cut down during winters for fodder. It is moderate sized tree up to 45 ft. high and 5ft girth with a clear bole of 10-12 ft. The plant is distributed from Punjab to Bengal, ascending to an altitude of about 7000 ft. in the Himalayas. Traditionally Bhimal is grown for fodder, fuel and fiber. Bhimal can grow easily in different type of soil. But sandy loam soil with adequate moisture favours good growth. Growth of the tree species is very poor in shallow dry soil. The leaves are proteinous and good for mulching animals. Women of villages near Rishikesh town in Uttarakhand are now earning a livelihood by an ingenious method of mixing bhimal and jute fibres .

Bhimal is a good source of fiber.

Villagers extract the fiber by retting process. Branches of the tree are cut during winter season and dipped in water for a month. The soaked branches are beaten and fiber is extracted.

The pruning of the tree and deleafing of the branches is done in winters. In the month of April, the dried branches are laid out in the sun. The branches are then bunched together and weighed down using large stones in running water. This process is called retting. Retting is done for thirty to forty days depending upon the thickness of the branches and the temperature of the water. The flowing water seeps into

the branches and breaks down the cells, thus breaking the outer layer. This results in the rotting of these branches through bacterial action. The bacteria rot the pectin or the gum that holds the fibres together. Over-retting of the branches can weaken the fibres and produce poor quality ropes. Nowadays lot of enzymes are available which can make the Fibre softer.

Varieties of Softener can be tried.

After retting, the branches are thrashed against boulders to loosen the bark and the phloem from the wood. The fibres are washed, dried in the sun and then separated. The dried fibres are called sel.

The sel are hand-twisted to make ropes and strings in the rainy season so that the moisture content in the atmosphere makes the twisting of fibres easy. The jyor/ thick rope is made of three thinner ropes plied together. Its function is to tie animals, yoke bullocks to the plough, and fasten firewood for carrying. Seenkh and jao are thin strings used for tying vegetable bags.

Sometimes, instead of undergoing degumming initially, the fibres are directly used as strips to tie or wrap bundles and strengthen fences. The bhimal rope is wrapped around a coil of grass to make a potholder. To create textile quality yarn out of bhimal, the fibres have to be softened, carded, and spun. This has not yet been possible as the sel is too dry and FEBRUARY 2021

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weak to be spun into yarn. In order to enhance the look and feel of the fibre, the artisans have started using natural dyes of different hues and shades.

Considering the qualities of Grevia optiva trees, it sure is a boon to the local population of Uttarakhand. The Rural Development and Industrial Sector of Uttarakhand Government must take keen measures to uplift the livelihood of hardworking crafts people, who are skilled and devoted.

Bhimal is superior to Jute and can contribute to voluminous uplift of the youth of Uttarakhand.

Properties of Bhimal Fibres The bast fibres of the tree are rough and uneven. Properties of Bhimal fiber characterise high tensile strength, biodegradable, insect barrier, antimicrobial, antifungal and fairly long filaments with a natural yellow hue. The Bhimal fiber blends well with other

fibers and is beneficial as a health fiber, used by doctors for patients in dressing supplies such as bandages and gauze, sleeves, clothing and masks for the medical industry.

Uses of Bhimal Fibres These fibres are used to make ropes and good quality paper. The bark of the bhimal tree produces mucilage which is used to make hair shampoo.

The branches of the tree have been used as torches and firewood since earlier times. The thicker branches are used to make handles for small agricultural tools while the thinner branches are woven into baskets.

Extracted fiber is a rich but an under utilised resource for weaving textiles including Area rugs, Carpets, Yardage, Lamp shades, Upholstery, Shoe uppers, Jackets, Coats, Hats, Spectacle cases,

TEXTILE MANAGEMENT

Pouches, Bags, Table linen, Kitchen linen and Bed spreads.The Bast fiber is used for making ropes to carry large Bamboo baskets, “Kandi”, and cattle leash, while the harder inner part of branches make fuel wood and the sap of the bark is used as shampoo.

The tree pulp can be used for making paper. Seeds of Grewia optiva can be used for extracting natural dyes. These dyes can be used for dyeing fabrics of cotton, silk, wool and jute by using alum, ferrous sulphate, copper sulphate, potassium dichromate and stannous chloride as mordants.

But lately, the fibre from dried and beaten twigs are also being widely and successfully used to make exquisite handloom products such as slippers, baskets, mats and bags. Bhimal is useful in its entirety, its roots hold the soil and leaves provide shade as well as cool the air and purify it.

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COVER STORY

able to perform at the highest level.

Organizational Culture: Organizational culture is the collection of values, working rules, company vision, traditions and beliefs that a company has adopted over the

Impact of COVID-19 pandemic on the education of Undergraduate Textile students and its relative effects

Mayuri Thakur

w

Dr. B.Basu

years. work p the or organ lines, stand and l

What Guide hat is Education? tion?

Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute, Matunga, Mumbai It can be defined as the wise, hope- study ful and respectful cultivation of dents learning undertaken in the belief down. This has widely affected the job placements, which create neg- and kn that all should have the chance to gy”. Te Textile industry as well, and has ativeshare tendencies in the minds of in life. Education, as we unsomet bstract created a bad impact on the UG, students. derstand, is a process of inviting scient The education sector along with PG students and Ph.D Scholars. The Education truth and possibility encourag- cal. T sector isofstruggling ing and giving time to other major sectors of India are Not only with the online educa- to keep up in this unpredictable develop knowledge badly affected by the pandemic tion but students are also facing situation by adapting vigour. Learning isnew digiwhich has forced us to stay in lock- trouble with their internships and tizedand approaches for the teachinga process of outcome.

As a process it is part of F E world B R U with A R Y 2In0 this 2 1 era of u living in the majesty. Education is re- cation can assu

Student

A

TEXTILE MANAGEMENT learning process. We are the faces for shaping the future of the Textile world, hence being a student, I decided to present the first- hand experience of this process via a survey research model.

Although there is continuity in this new way of virtual classes, there are many limitations observed; which hampers the efficiency of this new teaching method. Both the positive and negative impacts of COVID-19 are discussed. Some notable suggestions are mentioned to carry out educational activities, with the support of technical aids and educational leaders in respective Institutes during and after the pandemic, as it is an uncertain situation.

Keywords: Covid-19, Undergraduate students, Textile, Survey model, expected outcomes.

Introduction We can interpret the hard times we are going through; where the pandemic has definitely affected our today and is going to affect the future that we are building, as individuals and as a society. The COVID-19 pandemic has affected educational systems worldwide, leading to the near-total closures of schools, universities and colleges. Most Governments around the world decided to temporarily close educational institutions in an attempt to reduce the spread of COVID-19 virus (1). As of 30 September 2020, approximately 1.077 billion learners were affected due to school closures in response to the pandemic.

According to UNICEF monitoring, 53 countries are currently implementing nation-wide closures and 27 are implementing local closures, impacting about 61.6 percent of the student population in the world. Schools in 72 countries' are currently open (2). The closure of Colleges and Universities has widespread individual, organizational, and learning and teaching implications for students, faculty, administrators, and the Institutions themselves (3,4). The initial

period of rapid adaption during 2020 contained three primary responses to COVID-19. Minimal legal response, delayed commencement of study periods, and rapid digitalization of curriculum.

Apart from colleges losing vast amounts of income, undergraduate students themselves have lost vast amounts of imperative education due to COVID-19 (5). Before the COVID-19 pandemic, college students would have in-person classes, in-person office hours, and in-person extra-curricular activities. However, the pandemic has created an atmosphere where students who have an idea about their future occupation, are learning essential information behind a screen. These changes have made focusing on classes built around a students’ selected major subject very difficult; as they are not experiencing what they are passionate about to the fullest extent (6).

The result of this is lost passion for specific subjects, the inability to focus on crucial information, and tainted academic integrity all over.

This is our main focus of interest wherein we have to find solutions to bring back a sense of normalcy and encourage students to take up their favorite courses and draw interest from them.

Running behind normalcy and continuing online classes, not to forget the impact of physical and mental distancing that creates psychological imbalance in undergraduate students who go through concerns of CGPA, good placements, increments, social pressure with added physical distancing and restricted outings.

Review of guidelines The 10 guidelines given by UNESCO has proven worthwhile. It has improved the teaching-learning experience of students in this research study.

1. Examine the readiness and choose the most relevant tools: Decide on the use high- technology and low-technology solutions based on the reliability of local

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power supplies, internet connectivity, and digital skills of teachers and students.

2. Ensure inclusion of the distance learning programmes: Implement measures to ensure that students including those with disabilities or from low-income backgrounds have access to distance learning programmes, if only a limited number of them have access to digital devices.

3. Protect data privacy and data security: Ensure that the use of applications and platforms does not violate students’ data privacy since university students are very conscious of their privacy in terms of social image.

4. Prioritize solutions to address psychosocial challenges before teaching: Mobilize available tools to connect colleges, teachers, and students with each other. Create communities to ensure regular human interactions, enable social caring measures, and address possible psycho-social challenges that students may face when they are isolated.

5. Plan the study schedule of the distance learning programmes: Plan the schedule depending on the situation of the affected zones, level of studies and students’ needs. Avoiding learning methodologies that require faceto-face communication may help students to reduce the visual onscreen time.

6. Provide support to teachers and students on the use of digital tools: Organize brief training or orientation sessions for teachers and students as well, if monitoring and facilitation are needed.

7. Blend appropriate approaches and limit the number of applications and platforms: Blend tools or media that are available for most students, both for synchronous communication and lessons, and for asynchronous learning.

8. Develop distance learning rules and monitor students’ learning process: Design formative quesFEBRUARY 2021

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tions, tests, or exercises to monitor closely students’ learning process.

9. Define the duration of distance learning units based on students’ self-regulation skills: Keep a coherent timing according to the level of the students’ self-regulation and metacognitive abilities especially for livestreaming classes.

10. Create communities and enhance connection: Create communities of professors, counsellors, and students to address sense of loneliness or helplessness, facilitate sharing of experience and discussion on coping strategies when facing learning difficulties (7).

The tools used in the region selected for research purpose include Google Classroom, Google meet, Zoom app, Google forms, Customized applications and websites.

Since most of the college goers own a smartphone and some have laptops with internet access, there can be a few students facing borderline issues for the same.

Aim : The aim is to study the response of undergraduate students on the current methods adapted in undergraduate studies from various Textile Institutes.

Objectives: 1. To study the effects of durations of daily lecture on students’ attention and retention capacity.

2. To study the barriers of internet and network issues faced by students during online lectures and examinations.

3. To compare the student-teacher interaction levels during lectures.

4. To know the response of students on virtual mode of practical conduction and assessment.

5. To analyze students’ behavior with respect to online assessments and exams.

6. To provide effective methods and valuable inputs based on research points in interest; to further enhance the virtual teach-

in person feedback of their online semester experiences.

Sampling Technique: A random sampling method was used for the study.

Methodology of Study: The researcher has used action research method for competitive approach of textile undergraduates to study the impacts of lecture duration, on screen time, virtual practical inputs, conduction of online examinations and similar feedbacks from the students.

A Likert scale ranging from 1-5 wherein 1 means strongly agree and 5 means strongly disagree is the response format for the participants.

Descriptive Analysis of Data: Based on Likert scale of 5 point.

Statement 2.4.1: I easily get adjusted in continuous 5-6 hours of lecture every day.

ing-learning experience for the undergraduate students Significance of the study: Education is a primary need which should be prioritized. At this time, it is the need of hour to give utmost care and be responsible towards the continuation of education, without sacrificing psychological and physical wellbeing of the students. This research will analyze and advice on the areas where we need to improve the upcoming virtual mode of education.

Materials and Methods: Materials: The sample of study include 110 students from various Textile Institutes including VJTI in Mumbai, SGGS in Nanded, AEC in Buldana and SVVV in Indore. Although the majority of participants are from VJTI, the researcher has made sure the other population are well represented in the study by having

Figure 2.4.1 shows the percent of students’ response on their adjustments to long duration of lecture.

11.8% are neutral and agree respectively. 12.7% students agree to sitting long hours for their online lectures.

Statement 2.4.2: I do not like 2 continuous lectures of the same professor.

The above figure shows that 32.7% students find a misbalance in their time tables which urges them to sit for 5-6 hours of continuous lectures while 22.7% students disagree with the adjustments while 20% and

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65 (59.09%)

20 (18.18%) 1

2

5(4.5%) 3

10(9.09% ) 4

10(9.09% ) 5

Figure 2.4.2 shows the percent of students adapted to their set timetables

TEXTILE MANAGEMENT The above figure shows that 59.09% students strongly agree that they do not like a 2 hour continuous lecture from the same professor while 18.18% agree while 4% are neutral and 9% students disagree as well as strongly disagree showing that they’re comfortable with continuous lectures.

Statement 2.4.3: I feel back ache and headache after attending continuous lectures

Figure 2.4.3 shows the percent of students facing back ache and headache problems due to continuous lecture sessions.

The above figure shows that 36.4% students strongly agree they face physical issues and headache after a continuous lecture session; while 21.8% agree and 13.6% students are neutral with their belief.

10.9% do not agree with the statement while 17.3% strongly disagree.

Statement 2.4.4: I feel continuous lectures are reason of my erratic behavior with dear ones and family.

Figure 2.4.4 shows percent of students feeling that continuous lectures are the reason of their erratic behavior towards their family and friends.

The above figure shows that 29.1% students strongly agree that they face mood swings after a long day of continuous lectures at home whereas 16.4% agree and 19.1% stay neutral towards the statement. 10% students disagree while 25.5% students strongly disagree to the statement.

Statement 2.4.5: I get angry when someone asks irrelevant question in between

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Figure 2.4.5 shows the percent of students who get angry due to irrelevant questions asked by other students The above figure shows that 36.4% students strongly agree that they get angry due to irrelevant questions asked by other students while 18.2% students agree to the statement. 19.1% students are neutral while 10.9% and 15.5% students disagree and strongly disagree respectively.

Statement 2.4.6: I do face difficulty in asking my doubts to faculty The above figure shows that 45.5% students strongly agree that they face difficulty to ask their doubts to faculty while 27.2% students agree and 4.5% students are neutral. 13.6% students disagree to the statement while 9% students strongly disagree to the statement.

Statement 2.4.7: I am able to give full attention during online lectures.

The above figure shows that 16.4% students strongly agree that they can pay full attention in online lectures while 20% agree. 24.5% students are neutral about their attention capacity while 22.7% and 16.4% disagree and strongly disagree respectively towards the statement.

Statement 2.4.8: I get distracted due to home issues The above figure shows that 20% students face distractions in their lectures due to home activities while 24.5% students agree and 20% students are neutral about the statement. 20.9% students disagree while 14.5% students strongly disagree that then do not face any issue at home.

Statement 2.4.9: I face difficulty to connect due to power issue

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The above figure shows that 20% students face distractions in their lectures due to home activities while 24.5% students agree and 20% students are neutral about the statement. 20.9% students disagree while 14.5% students strongly disagree that then do not face any issue at home.

Statement 2.4.9: I face difficulty to connect due to power issue

The above figure shows that 16.4% students face difficulty to connect to online lectures during power issues while 20.9% agree and 26.4% are neutral about this statement. 25.5% students disagree and 10.9% students strongly agree that power issues do not obstruct online lectures.

Statement 2.4.10: Professor does not consider network issues

The above figure shows that 20% students strongly agree their professor do not consider network issues during lectures or exams and 14.5% students agree to the statement. 28.2% students neither agree nor disagree while 11.8% and 25.5% students disagree and strongly disagree to the statement respectively.

Statement 2.4.11: Network issues has affected my exams and practical.

The above figure shows that 25.5% students strongly agree they have faced network issues during exams and practical while 20% agree to the statement.17.3% students are neutral about network issues during the exams and practical while 16.4% students disagree and 20.9% students strongly disagree stating they’ve not FEBRUARY 2021

TEXTILE MANAGEMENT

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The above figure shows that 25.5% students strongly agree they have faced network issues during exams and practical while 20% agree to the statement.17.3% students are neutral about network issues during the exams and practical while 16.4% students disagree and 20.9% students strongly disagree stating they’ve not faced network issues during exams and practical.

Statement 2.4.12: I feel helpless and angry when I face network issues.

The above figure significantly shows 49.1% students strongly feeling helpless and angry if they face network issues while 22.7% agree to the statement. 15.5% students are neutral about their opinion while 9.1% and 3.6% students disagree and strongly disagree with the statement.

Statement 2.4.13: I can understand everything in online practical sessions.

The above figure shows that 16.4% students strongly agree and 13.6% students agree they understand everything in online practical. 26.4% students are neutral about their opinion while 23.6% and 20% students disagree and strongly disagree they do not understand everything during online practical .

Statement 2.4.14: I cannot imagine the practical performed virtually

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TEXTILE MANAGEMENT

The above figure shows that 34.5% students strongly agree that they are unable to imagine online practical while 16.4% students agree to the statement. 26.4% students are neutral about their opinion while 8.2% and 14.5% students disagree and strongly disagree on the statement.

Statement 2.4.15: I do not enjoy writing online exams.

7 0 58 (52.7%) 6 4 0 0

3 5 0 0

15 (13.6%)

17 (15.4%) 10 (9%)

10 (9%)

Figure 2.4.15 shows the percent of students who do not enjoy writing online exams

The above figure shows 52.7% students strongly agree they do not enjoy writing online exams and 13.6% students agree while 9% students are neutral about this statement. 15.4% students disagree while 9% students strongly disagree that they do not enjoy online exams.

Statement 2.4.16: I do enjoy the online assessment of marks

The above figure shows that 22.7% students strongly agree to online assessment of marks while 17.3% agree they enjoy online assessment of marks while 20% students are neutral and 20.9% and 19.1% students disagree and strongly disagree that they do no enjoy online assessment of marks.

Statement 2.4.17: I find difficulty in frequent online assignment submission.

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The above figure shows that 29.1% students strongly agree they find difficulty in frequent online assignment submission while 27.3% agree and 14.5% students are neutral. 20.9% and 10.9% students disagree and strongly disagree that they do not find difficulty in frequent online assignment submission.

Statement 2.4.18: I feel there is partiality in assessments

The above figure shows that 34.5% students strongly agree they feel there is partiality in assessments while 18.2% agree and 17.3% students are neutral. 15.5% and 14.5% students disagree and strongly disagree that they do not find difficulty in frequent online assignment submission.

Statement 2.4.19: I feel there is transparency in assessment of marks.

The above figure shows that 15.5% students strongly agree they feel there is transparency in assessment of marks while 18.2% agree and 29.1% students are neutral towards this statement. 10.9% and 26.4% students disagree and strongly disagree respectively that they feel there is transparency in assessment of marks.

Statement 2.4.20: I feel the faculty is not trained enough for online assessment process.

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TEXTILE MANAGEMENT

The above figure shows that 18.2% students strongly agree they feel the faculty is not trained enough for online assessment process while 16.4% agree and 29.1% students are neutral towards this statement. 12.7% and 23.6% students disagree and strongly disagree respectively that they feel the faculty is not trained enough for online assessment process.

Statement 2.4.21: I do feel virtual mode is unsuitable for practical understanding and assessment.

The above figure shows that 60% students strongly agree they feel virtual mode is unsuitable for practical understanding and assessment while 14.5% students agree and 9% students are neutral towards this statement. 10% and 6.3% students disagree and strongly disagree respectively that they feel the faculty is not trained enough for online assessment process.

Result and Discussion: Major findings confirming to the expected outcomes: 1. An average of 32.7% students strongly agree they find a misbalance in their time tables which urges them to sit for 5-6 hours of continuous lectures.

2. A major percent 59.09% students strongly agree that they do not like a 2 hour continuous lecture from the same professor.

3. An average of 36.4% students strongly agree they face backache and headache after a continuous lecture session.

4. A few percent of 29.1% students strongly agree that they face mood swings after a long day of continuous lectures at home.

5. An average of 36.4% students strongly agree that they get angry due to irrelevant questions asked by other students.

6. An average of 45.5% students strongly agree that they face difficulty to ask their doubts to faculty in online lectures.

7. An average of 24.5% students neither agree now disagree about their attention capacity during the online lecture.

8. An average of 24.5% students face distractions in their lectures due to home activities.

9. An average of 26.4% of students neither agree nor disagree they face power issues during online lectures.

10. A divided 28.2% students neither agree nor disagree their professors do not consider network issues students face during online lectures.

11. An average 25.5% students strongly agree they have faced network issues during exams and practical.

12. A majority of 49.1% students strongly feel helpless and angry if they face network issues.

13. An average 26.4% students feel they can understand everything in online practical.

14. A divided 34.5% students strongly agree that they are unable to imagine online practical.

15. A majority 52.7% students strongly agree they do not enjoy writing online exams.

16. A minor percent 22.7% students strongly agree to online assessment of marks.

17. An average 29.1% students strongly agree they find difficulty in frequent online assignment submission.

18. A majority 34.5% students strongly agree they feel there is partiality in assessments.

19. An average 29.1% students neither agree nor disagree there is transparency in assessment of marks.

20. An average 29.1% strongly agree they feel the faculty is not trained enough for online assessment process.

21. A majority 60% students strongly agree they feel virtual mode is unsuitable for practical understanding and assessment.

From the above findings, we can infer points on following grounds: The timetable schedules should be flexible and of less duration up to 3 hours per day in a week since undergraduate students are always burdened with preparations of entrance exams, placement interviews and exams and other curricular activities since all the students are residing in their homes surrounded by family. Also discontinuous lecture schedule encourages the increase in the attention and retention capacity of students which will also avoid the increase in their physical and mental conditions. A class of 60 students can be divided into 2 sections for more interactive sessions although the faculty will have to put extra efforts for the quality of education the students deserve.

An intimate WhatsApp® conversation with faculties for students’ doubts and clarifications based on weekly lectures and assessments can save time of the faculty as well as the students and they will get quick replies to doubts they are stuck on, during studying or revisions. A timely adjusted video call session per week for students living in remote areas or facing network issues during lecture hours FEBRUARY 2021

TEXTILE MANAGEMENT or in practical sessions should be conduction to help them catch up and understand by taking them along with the whole class.

Since a practical session requires continuous lecture, it should be either broken up into parts. For example of a VJTI faculty Dr. Manisha Hira who taught Advanced Weaving Preparatory Lab Third year students wherein she divided the session into three parts: Introduction and discussion of the experiment, viewing the recorded video session of the practical performed in VJTI Weaving Lab and Google form quiz assessment for the practical. Since there is uncertainty for the next academic session, the faculty needs to be trained in conducting smooth and effective virtual educational sessions that will build confidence in the final year students and prepare them for their placement sessions and interviews.

Conclusion During lockdown period for Covid-19, the educational institutions are depending mostly on Online Distance Learning which becomes very difficult for the computer illiterate learners to manage. Motivation of the learners is highly necessary to explore the facilities of using online support services during the pandemics which is lacking in some learners. Since we all are equally submerged in this pandemic lethargy and need a change for good, ODL is a very good platform to keep learners/educators engaged and safe by maintaining social distancing during the lockdown period for Covid-19.

Online learning system utilizes various applications of the internet to distribute classroom materials and help learners and educators interact with one another.

Using the various technologies educators can provide a more

interactive distance learning experience by delivering real-time, synchronous video conferencing.

Though the outbreak of Covid-19 has created many challenges for education, many educational institutions have accepted the challenges and trying their best to provide seamless support services to the learners exploring better opportunities. They have chosen to make every challenge an opportunity (Pravat 2020,7).

Though Covid-19 has created many challenges, it has induced the educational institutions to explore better opportunities of learning using different technologies. All the institutes have been tackling the challenges created by Covid-19 and providing effective support services through online mode for the benefit of stakeholders of ODL at the time of crisis.

Government/educational institutions should also adopt the policy to provide free internet and free digital gadgets to all learners in order to encourage online learning as a result of which people would get engaged during lockdown and utilize the educational opportunities. Further in-depth research may be undertaken to study the effect of Covid-19 on education system and positive changes that can be bought with solutions and remediation.

References (1)“COVID-19 Educational Disruption and Response”. UNESCO. 2020-03-04. Retrieved 2020-05-24.

(2) “COVID-19 Educational Disruption and Response”. UNESCO. 2020-03-04. Retrieved 2020-10-03.

(3)Aristovnik A, Keržič D, Ravšelj D, Tomaževič N, Umek L (October 2020). “Impacts of the COVID-19 Pandemic on Life of Higher Education Students: A Global Perspective”. Sustainability. 12 (20): 8438. doi:10.3390/su12208438

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(4)Crawford, Joseph; Percy, Alisa (2020). “JUTLP Editorial 17.3: Connection, digital education, and student-centric teaching practice before COVID-19”. Journal of University Teaching and Learning Practice. 17 (3). Retrieved 24 August 2020.

(5) News, A. B. C. “Coronavirus pandemic brings staggering losses to colleges and universities”. ABC News. Retrieved 2020-12-08.

(6)“Is online learning shrinking your attention span?”. The Beacon. Retrieved 2020-12-08 (7)Pravat Ku Jena. (2020). Challenges and Opportunities created

by Covid-19 for ODL: A case study of IGNOU May 2020 DOI: 10.2015/ IJIRMF.2455.0620/202005041 (8)Pravat Ku. Jena (2018). Academic Counselling Services in IGNOU. International Journal of Advanced Research, 6(4), 441-448. 3.

(9)Pravat Ku. Jena (2020): Successful Learners of Distance Education: A case study of IGNOU, International Journal of Innovative Research in Multidisciplinary Filed, 6(4), 155161. 4.

(10) Pravat Ku. Jena (2019): Academic Assessment System of Learners in IGNOU, International Journal of Advanced Research, 7(5), 381-389 (11) Bound J, Lovenheim MF, Turner S. (2010): “Why have college completion rates declined? An analysis of changing student preparation and collegiate resources”, American Economic Journal: Applied Economics, 2(3), 129-157.

(12) Brock T. (2010): “Young adults and higher education: Barriers and breakthroughs to success”, The Future of Children, 20(1), 109132.

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EVENT REPORT

WEBINAR ON TECHNICAL TEXTILE Our honorable Ms. Smriti Zubin Irani Ji, Minister of Textiles, Information and Broadcasting and Women and Child Development, India from BJP representing Amethi constituency has took many steps to uplift the Textile Industry and has been seen in Conference held for technical textile this year.

She is the youngest Minister at the age of 43 from 2016 in India and has launched Apparel Sector Special Package, Support for technical textile, focused on North Eastern Region, introduced Silk Samgra Workshop and Samarth Scheme, created Committee on gender budgeting, made Amendment in POCSO act 2019 and Bhartya Poshan Krishi Kosh. These are the few achievements she achieved since her tenure.

One of the most recent event she bestowed upon was “Technical textile-The future of Indian textile industry” on 27th Jan 2021, which was held on WebEx, a video conferencing platform. It was organized by the IMC, chamber of commerce and industry and was preside by many dignitaries from the textile industry.

It included diginitaries like Mr. Rajeev Podar, chairman IMC; Mr. Puneet Lalbhai, Executive Director, Arvind Ltd; and Mr. Manoj Patodia, Chairman TEXPROCIL. They all spent their valuable time in this conference to discuss the upcoming market of Technical Textile in India and worldwide.

Mr.Podar initiated the conference by stating facts like India is one of the largest producers of textile and apparels and the domestic industry contributes 2% of India’s Total GDP; 7% of industrial output in terms of value; 12% of the country’s Export Earnings and is the second largest employer of the country providing direct employ-

ment to nearly 45 million people and approximately 60 million people in allied industry.

He then moved on to the importance and growth of technical textile prior to which India has shown its strength in Traditional textile and natural fibers globally and in recent years, man-made fibers and many more. Technical textile accounts for approximately 13% of India’s total textile and apparel market and only 5-10% is consumed, whereas in the advanced countries it is 30 – 70%. Hence National Technical textile Mission has been setup that aims at an average growth rate of 15 – 20% rate to increase the domestic market.

He put forward that Technical textile in India is estimated to grow at the rate of 12% per annum in order to achieve 20% annual growth in this sector as a need for proactive approach towards expanding the existing market, promote usage of Technical textile, encourage International collaborations, Investment promotions, and increase awareness among the citizens and institutions of the country.

The Key factors to increase this include growing end users in industries like Auto mobile, health

care, sports and infrastructure and on-going industrial development; availability of raw material such as cotton, wool, jute and silk along with a strong value chain, low cost labour, power and changing consumer trends.

He highlighted the fact that even in Covid 19 lockdown situation textile industry showed its propensity and turned a tradegy into a beautiful opportunity which shows the ability to innovate and rise to the challenge with limited resources and time. India went to zero PPE kits in March 2020 to 2.5 Lakhs a day in sixty days becoming the second largest manufacturer after China. Today India stands to produce 4.5 lakh PPEs and more than 1.5 crore masks a day.

After Mr. Podar Sir, Mr. Anant Singhania, Chairmen Industry of Trade Committee, IMC- Chambers of Commerce and Industry, took the lead and continued the conference by presenting facts regarding Technical textile and stating the use of Technical textile present even in even the velcro of your shoe; the sportswear used in gym; the wrinkle free clothes we wear; the masks; medicated stems for hearts treatment and so on.

FEBRUARY 2021

EVENT REPORT He introduced the idea that Technical textile include clothes which can change according to your mood, temperature, wettability and so on. Technical textile can be divided into GeoTech , Agrotech, MedTech, MobTech, Sportstech and lot more.

Currently we have 2000 textile units in the states such as Maharashtra, Gujarat, and West Bengal with a turnover of $16 billion. The Indian global demand in technical textile exportation by 2025 will be increased by 4% comparative to the leading exporting countries like US, China, Germany,Taiwan and South Korea.

Recently Gov of India has approved the PLI scheme- Production Linked Incentives of Rs 1,45,980 crore for ten key sectors including textiles.

Launching of the national textile mission from 2020 - increased the use of technical textile in domestic market, allowed India to enter in joint venture with South Korea,

lots of research is going on in institutes like CITRA, BITRA, IITs for both sustainable like jute, cotton and man-made fibres.

The sector seems to be really very promising with the Gov. Support and country is leading towards more of innovations due to huge demand and that will make the textile industry as the only exponentially growing industry in the coming days.

With this our special guest Ms. Smriti Irani's was given the stage to speak her mind and her thoughts regarding the initiative towards the growth of Indian Technical textile.

1. It included Observations from 2018 where there was hesitation in the hearts of the people because it was even then dubbed as a sunrise section.

2. Current profit is of $256 billion with Indian having only 8% market share.

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3. In Jan 2019, the ministry ensured 207 adjacent courts for technical textiles industry 4. In past two years India has become net exporter in Technical textile 5. A trade balance which was a negative in 2018-19 from minus 1565 crore now stands at positive 1768 crore.

6. 1100 plus companies manufacture PPEs in our country.

7. From two companies who produced N95 masks, India now has 200 companies producing such masks.

8. Over 5 lakh PPE kits are manufactured per day.

9. Plus 35 lakhs N95 masks per day.

10 India turned its testing capacity from 2 into 12 by December 2021 Reference https://youtu.be/2AR2M8c4zTM NEWS

LIVA launches AW21-22 collection, swatches at display across Jaipur, Tirupur and Noida LAPF Studios

LIVA

, the fashion ingredient brand from the Aditya Birla Group, launched its AW 21 – 22 seasonal collection at the LAPF Studios. Curated by LIVA’s in-house design team following inputs from WGSN global trends, the collection is based on the constant thrive to adjust to new normal ways of living and an opportunity to Adapt, Innovate and Reinvent.

Launched through a pan India webcast, the swatches of this collection were made available at the Buyer-Seller Meet organised at all the three LAPF Studios.

Over 170 business visitors from 132 companies visited to witness the collection across all the LAPF Studios. Attendees included key brands, buying houses, online retailers, and exporters. Renowned organizations like Pearl Global, Aman Exports, Cheer Sagar, Juniper Brand, Li & Fung, Asamar Apparels, Prits Leather, and Triburg were a part of the guest list.

Partners across textile hubs like Erode, Ahmedabad, Delhi-NCR, Mumbai, Nagpur showcased their collections.

Buyers have expressed interest specially for sustainable fabrics made with LIVA Reviva and Livae-

co by Birla Cellulose. Brands also appreciated the block chain based C-O-C tool “GreenTrack™” that enables brands to track journey of fibre from plantation till garment stage.

“Transparency in sourcing and the traceability journey of fibre from forestry till it becomes a garment will be the mandate from brands in future. I am glad that at in our FEBRUARY 2021

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business we have always prioritized on sustainability and now with our C-O-C based tool ‘GreenTrack™’ we offer transparency to our buyers” said Mr. ManMohan Singh, President Business Development at Birla Cellulose.

Along with the launch of this collection, LAPF Studio Jaipur in association with Garment Exporters’ Association Rajasthan (GEAR) cel-

ebrated its first anniversary helping buyers source the best fabric made with LIVA. “At GEAR, we always work towards buyer engagement and we find LAPF Studio Buyer-Seller meets as one of the best engagement platforms. These engagements showcase multiple fabric options generating enquires, which eventually help business growth

of Jaipur cluster” said Mr. Vimal Shah, President GEAR. LAPF Studios take all necessary precaution on sanitization, thermal checks and adequate measures for physical distancing. New approach of online “Book Your Appointment” for exclusive attention at the Studios ensuring physical distancing was much appreciated by the visitors.

Hybrid trade show concept with various innovations for the entire manmade fibers industry

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his year's trade fair appearance of Oerlikon's Manmade Fibers Division at ITMA ASIA + CITME will focus on the latest machine and plant developments as well as customer services around the motto "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." In Hall 7 of the China National Exhibition and Convention Center (NECC), Shanghai, Oerlikon will present as one of the leading suppliers for high-end technology solutions for the entire manmade fibers industry its innovations from 12 to 16 June 2021 at its hybrid booth A48 on more than 225 m².

Oerlikon offers its customers solutions along the textile value production chain. The division with the competence brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven thus supplies technology "From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens" for PET, PP, PA6 and other materials. Accordingly, the offers at the ITMA ASIA + CITME booth will be.

Due to the travel restrictions in the context of the Corona pandemic, Oerlikon relies on a hybrid booth concept. In addition to various new component exhibits from the fields of continuous polycondensation including gear metering pumps, filament (POY, FDY, IDY,

BCF) and staple fiber spinning, texturing as well as nonwovens production, the dialog with customers will now more than ever after such a long time without a fair be at the center of the trade show activities.

All Oerlikon experts from outside China will be able to be connected online in order to provide comprehensive support for the trade fair visitors together with the Chinese sales staff, technologists and engineers onsite. Especially in the field of digitalization and new solutions for the "Smart Factory", the intercontinental dialog at the whole time of the exhibition is a mandatory prerequisite for a successful trade fair.

Oerlikon to be Operationally Climate Neutral by 2030

“S

ustainability has been an integral part of our strategy that drives our innovations and operations to serve our customers’ needs for many years,” states Dr. Roland Fischer, CEO Oerlikon Group. “With the report, we now make a public commitment and join the ranks of people proactively engaging with sustainability and inspiring others to do the same.”

Helping customers in key industries to achieve more with less is an integral part of Oerlikon’s value proposition, technologies and operations. Based on the materiality analysis, Oerlikon has selected 8 out of the 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) where the company can make the most difference for its stakeholders.

Environmental, social and governance targets for 2030 have been

set by the Group in areas that align most closely with its operations, policies and capabilities. These targets, for example using only energy from renewable sources and increasing the number of women in leadership roles, have been selected with care and consideration in areas where Oerlikon can make FEBRUARY 2021

NEWS the greatest impact.

“Setting ambitious targets, such as achieving climate neutrality in our operations by 2030, clearly underlines our commitment,” added Dr. Fischer. “We also intend to have 100% of our R&D investment in new products to cover the ESG criteria. We have always seen innovation and sustainability as interdependent – for example, in 2019, our innovative technology solutions for jet engines helped our customers in the aerospace

industry to save 25 million tons of CO2. At the same time, the CO2 impact of our own global operations was only 157 000 tons.”

Oerlikon has many other tangible examples of how its engineering and processing of materials and surfaces contribute to sustainability in collaboration with its customers. Oerlikon’s technologies lengthen the useful life of machinery and tools, improve automotive and aerospace fuel efficiency and pioneer advances in textile manu-

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facturing and the future of mobility.

Oerlikon’s 2020 Sustainability Report is prepared according to the internationally recognized GRI Sustainability Reporting Standards1, underlining the Group’s commitment to transparently sharing its sustainability achievements and progress, and is accessible online at www.sustainabilityreport.oerlikon.com.

The Montex®Coat ticks all the right boxes for coating success in 2021

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lexibility, product uniformity and automation are the keys to success for coating businesses in today’s rapidly-changing technical textiles industry, explained Jürgen Hanel, Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, at the recent 1st World Congress on Textile Coating.

Introducing the latest Montex®Coat magnetic roller coating option to virtual delegates from around the world at the conference organised by International Newsletters, Hanel explained why this technology makes perfect sense now “The magnetic roller system allows a wide range of coatings and finishes to be carried out, while being easy to handle for operators and much easier to clean at the end of the process,” he said. “It provides textile finishers with an expanded range of options due to the fully-adjustable positioning of the magnet within the roller and with four different magnet positions possible, can be set to operate both as a direct coating system and as an indirect coater.”

With traditional dip coating systems, he added, as well as with many standard knife coating tech-

nologies, there is always a difference in the tension between the centre and the edges of the wide width fabrics being treated – and hence the amount of pressure with which the coating is applied. With the use of a magnetic roller, equal pressure is applied across the full width of the fabric, with consistent results even at wide widths of over 2.4 metres. In addition, adjusting the roller surface, rather than changing the coating formulation to match the required add-on and viscosity for each coating effect required, leads to much higher output from the line.

Cleaner and less wasteful The contribution of such flexible and resource-saving new technologies to a cleaner and less wasteful textile industry was a key theme at the congress – held virtually across the four afternoons of February 11th, 12th, 18th and 19th – as was digitalization and the many advantages it is providing.

“A typical integrated Monforts coating line is automated from the inlet feed to the winder,” Hanel told delegates. “Adjustments can also be made simply and easily

from the touchscreen and with the new hand-held remote controller which has recently been introduced for the Montex®Coat unit.”

Manual adjustment, he added, is time consuming and needs the attention of an experienced operator or the reproducibility will not be accurate between coating operations. The adjustment by motors allows each coating to be stored and downloaded again for 100% reproducibility.

The motors can be fully controlled from the touchscreen and all necessary adjustments carried out remotely, making switching from one process to another extremely quick and easy.

The accuracy that is now being demanded by today’s most exacting customers is met with an optional carbon fibre roller – especially in dealing with the winding tension required in the processing of materials such as prepregs for composites and other heavyFEBRUARY 2021

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weight fabrics. Typical applications for the Montex®Coat include the finishing of tents and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low

penetration treatments can all be accommodated.

“The World Congress on Textile Coating was characterised by some very stimulating presentations and forums between the speakers and a global audience of textile specialists,” Jürgen Hanel

concluded. “It truly reflected the high level of positive changes now taking place in not just textile coating, but the entire textile industry.

I look forward to the next edition, which hopefully will be a face-toface event for even deeper level discussions and debate.”

KHITISH PANDYA: FOUNDER, ECO TASAR

K

hitish Pandya has been involved with tasar silk textiles since 2000. He was brought in by PRADAN- an NGO to help build the business side of the silk yarn making project initiated by PRADAN. As a social entrepreneur, he strongly believes that providing right economic opportunities to the poor in their own locale and also by helping enhance their capacity to avail such opportunities is a more inclusive and sustainable way of poverty alleviation.

Khitish Pandya, formed a separate company named Eco Tasar Silk Private Limited in 2007 to cater to the fabric market exclusively.

ECO TASAR is synonymous to social accountability, love for nature and respect for human traditions.

All of Eco Tasar’s products are made of natural wild silk through a

collaborative venture of tribal silkworm rearer, poor rural women yarn makers and handloom weavers in the hinterlands of India. The company took pride and excelled in the competencies of innovative and unique designs, benchmarking, and taking tasar silk to areas where the market for silk was almost non-existent, thereby creating and enhancing the market for tasar silk. It also consciously avoided machines and did not substitute handloom for powerloom. The mission of the company is “to create large-scale wage opportunity for tribal producers of silk cocoons, women yarn makers, weavers, other small producers, artisans, and service providers in the textile value chain using a sustainable and fair business model so that they do not have to migrate in search of work.” Khitish believed that enhancing the ca-

pacity and skill set of poor in their locale and making them economically independent was the way to have a sustainable environment.

Khitish took pride in creating a value chain which included artisans and weavers from economically backward areas and providing them with a sustainable livelihood. It also shared a symbiotic relationship with its key customers and endured this relationship by providing them best in quality and innovative designs. Khitish converted the demand into aesthetic products as per the requirement of its customers. The competitive advantages of the company included an inclusive supply chain innovative and unique designs an environmentally friendly mode of production that consciously avoided machines and that took tasar silk to areas where the market for silk was almost non-existent.

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE

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Textile vs Technology: Created to Please or Displease?

NUR HANI AQILAH BINTI SALEHIN

S

THOMAS P. S. ONG

CORPORATE STRATEGIES & COMMUNICATION (CSC) fashion. One thing for sure is that they may be curious about how textile and technology can both be commercialized together. Is it a good combination? And the most important question in their mind is how the functionalized textile may raise profits.

However, somehow technology and textiles can be best friends where they can be embedded together to give new value propositions. This situation is known as functionalized textile. By concept, functionalized textiles or clothing is user-specific and designed to fulfil the user’s needs in extreme

dry contact with coolness and breath, and also good ventilation that is necessary here for special purposes such as firefighters. The antibacterial fabrics are also functional in a number of applications.

The applications are included in undergarments such as socks, kids’ apparel, military clothing, medical devices, and sportswear.

But then again, the antibacterial trend nowadays improves business players’ turnover as people in the midst of pandemic COVID-19 require safer clothing, particularly facial masks.

Functional textile also helps shield

ince the 1960s, technology has been revolutionized from the first generation of technology push to the fifth generation of systems integration and networking.

We’re all in the technical sense.

This include everything we wear, use and clean, the textiles. Textile can be broad, it can be the clothing, home textile, technical textile, medical textile, sports or even military textile. As the textiles are so near to our hearts, we take clothing and home textiles into consideration in this article, all of which have a global forecast worth more than US$ 100 Billion.

Future fashion is not only putting a lot of beading on the clothing, but it has something to do with technology, or we can say much related to nanotechnology. This is because if we can see the trends, people nowadays are working into the old fashion, which is simplicity.

Not much beading needed, lots of metallics, textures nor holographic accents. Also, it can be seen now women and men are busy working. We have not enough time to really care for our clothing thus we need easy yet convenient cloth- Figure 1: UV protection clothing helps in protecting our body from the sun. ing. If possible, we would grab the easiest and fastest clothes. situations or designed to satisfy Hence, to achieve fulfilment, na- them. New and emerging goods the skin from damaging sun rays, notechnology in the clothing or and potential new groups will which is difficult to see with natextiles industry is the solution. begin to appear in this region as ked eyes. Nanotechnology that Even though it is not a new phe- new innovations are introduced to enables UV protection can be used nomenon as it has been begun satisfy customer’s requirements. for different forms of textiles, such in the mid-2000s, the awareness Each functionality provides a as clothes, sports, and swimming of having this technology is not broad variety of functionalized suits. We can still be exposed withequivalent to the marketability of textiles or clothing with regards out applying sunscreen though be other nanotechnologies such as to its configuration, material, con- protected by technology. Any of sunscreen and others. Business sequent technology, and meth- the positives are helping to deplayers either the upstream or the ods. For instance, flame retarda- crease the chance of skin cancer, downstream need to be familiar- tion by infused the ion-enhanced plus it helps eliminate tan, which ized with the upcoming future of nanofibers gives users excellent is more important for your appearFEBRUARY 2021

52

TECHNICAL TEXTILE

ance.

In addition, as the importance of home textile products among customers is gaining attraction nowadays, the expectation of features and added value in addition to fine quality and better designs increases too. With the growing technology, some of the new features were embedded in the home textiles such as antibacterial, flame retardant, hydrophobic, quick-dry, and cooling. If there are parents that are paranoid about their child getting bacterial infection even in the home, they can try to get the products such as pillows, blankets, curtains, towels,

and bedsheet that are embedded with nanotechnology. Plus, it is a golden time for home textiles manufacturers to grab the chance to improve selling revenue by promoting a new range of products pertaining to the customer’s taste.

Figure 2: Happy baby, happy life.

Hence, its time to venture into functional home textile.

In short, we can now see that textiles are well matched with technology. As the textile market evolves, we can see the market align with other industry where the textile industry has the largest customer base. The downstream industry players in particular must

take advantage of this opportunity by selling new value. To that end, the fashion industry especially in Malaysia does not have to source from the outside of the country because NanoTextile has already made considerable progress in developing clothing in this country. All the stated technologies for textiles are available including self-cleaning, odour control, antistatic, and iron-free functionalities. Therefore, the theme “When Fashion Meets Technology” does make sense as it not only modernizes the clothing industry with nanotechnology, but it was created to please us.

FA B R I C R E P O R T

Lockdown in UK and Europe has drastically changed the market of import and export Vinod chothani Domestic Report • From the very perspective of Mr. Vinod Chotani, the fabric market is growing very slow, just 20 – 25 % and not much news is coming in increase of the market.

• In his own words the market has not picked up even after the lock-

down has been lifted up and lot of support is needed for it to get back in its initial form.

• And also the Union budget of 2021 has not relieved the conditions of the fabric market or the Textile Budget has not shown any hope.

International Report • Lockdown in UK and Europe has drastically changed the market of import and export.

• The domestic market need upliftment and European countries are also facing the same.

FEBRUARY 2021

NEWS

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HEWA seeks Hon’ble PM ‘s Intervention for continuation of (WTO Compliant) RoSCTL scheme till RoDTEP rate notification for achieving targeted goals of employment generation.

A

s per the Notification No. 36/20 Customs, dated 05.10.2020, there was a general perception amongst Indian Exporters that budgetary allocation earmarked for the RoSCTL scheme during F.Y. 2020-21 will continue till 31.03.2021 or to any other such date prior to 31.03.2021 on which the RoDTEP scheme rates will be notified.

With folded hands it is brought to the kind notice that till today that is 19.02.2021, approx two months have elapsed since the declaration of the RoDTEP scheme and the rates of its remission of are yet to be notified by Government Whereas on the other hand the RoSCTL scheme has been stopped w.e.f.01.01.2021.

HEWA further requests the august PM office to intervene in the matter of RoDTEP of HomeTextile to declare the rate of RoDTEP as soon as possible based on actual findings to counter the disadvantage to the textile exporter due to withdrawal of RoSCTL and hence the RoDTEP scheme should not be restricted by any budgetary constraint.

With due respect and reverence it is submitted that (HEWA) The Home Textile Exporters' Welfare Association is a nonprofit association of small and medium Indian Home Textile Exporters working for the wellbeing of small and medium sized exporters.

As it is well known that the rates for remission under the RoDTEP scheme are yet to be notified by Government of India, it has also been announced that all benefits availed by exporters under the RoSCTL scheme will be curtailed w.e.f. 01.01.2021.

Whereas as on the other an assurance given to the Indian Exporters by the Ministry of Finance vide its Gazette Notification No. 36/2020 dated 05.10.2020 that “RoSCTL scheme will be available to the exporters till 31.03.2021 or until such date the RoSCTL scheme is merged with the Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products scheme, whichever is earlier”.

In the wake of above mentioned Notification No. 36/20 Customs, dated 05.10.2020, there was a general perception amongst Indian Exporters that budgetary allocation earmarked for the RoSCTL scheme during F.Y. 2020-21 will continue till 31.03.2021 or to any other such date prior to 31.03.2021 on which the RoDTEP scheme rates will be notified.

With folded hands it is brought to your kind notice that till today that is 19.02.2021, approx two months have elapsed since the declaration of the RoDTEP scheme and the rates of its remission of are yet to be notified by Government Whereas on the other hand the RoSCTL scheme has been stopped w.e.f.01.01.2021.

Indian Home Textile Exporters are still in a state of dilem-

ma as their earlier suggestion PMOPG/E/2021/0016476 dated 08.01.2021 has not been resolved till date. The rates of RoDTEP are yet to be notified by competent authority. In the wake of circumstances quoted earlier, the HEWA, on behalf of small and medium textile exporters once again humbly pray before Hon'ble Prime Minister of India Shri. Narendra Ji Modi's intervention for issuing appropriate direction to the concerned ministry for declaration of RoDTEP rates without any budgetary constraints as soon as possible preferably at par with RoSCTL. The Indian Textile Industry is having great potential to fulfill our Respected Prime Minister Narendra Modi Jee's vision of Aatm Nirbhar Bharat and can contribute towards achieving the goal of 5 Trillion Indian Economy by the end of 2025 thereby generating more than 5 Core jobs.

In present scenario the exporters are not in a position to quote competitive rates to foreign buyers to fetch new orders. They are also finding it difficult to complete the previous orders as they were obtained keeping in mind that government will refund various embedded taxes already paid by the Exporters to the Government in the shape of RoSCTL. Whereas textile exporters from Bangladesh, Pakistan and Vietnam etc. are availing duty advantage upto 10% on account of various FTAs and Preferential Access among the key trading nations.

FEBRUARY 2021

54

EXPORT REPORT

Yarn export marginally up in January, cotton ebbs

B

asic textiles export comprising natural and manmade fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment was up 9% YoY in January 2021 in terms of US$ worth US$945 million or INR6,837 crore, accounting for about 3.4% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. The increase was mainly an extension a of sharp increase of 35% seen in January. On a cumulative basis, exports were just 4% up in the first 10 months of 202021, compared same period a year ago.

Spun yarns shipment totaled 140 million kg worth US$415 million (up 15% YoY) or INR3,000 crore (up 18%) in January 2021. Compared to December 2020, they were down 10% both in US$ in INR terms. Bangladesh emerged as the largest importer in spun yarns, but value was down 4%, followed

by China (down 1%). These two markets accounted for about 35% to total yarn shipped during the month.

Cotton yarn export volume was at 107 million kg worth US$330 million (INR2,387 crore). These were shipped to 71 countries at an average price of US$3.10 a kg, up US cents 18 from previous month and US cents 30 from a year ago. China remained as the top cotton yarn market, followed by Bangladesh,

Nitin Madkaikar Vietnam and Peru.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports of 11 million kg, comprised 4.3 million kg of polyester yarn, 3.4 million kg of viscose yarn and 2.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn export was worth US$8.85 million or INR64 at an average price of US$2.026 per kg in January. USA was the largest market followed by Brazil and Turkey. Viscose spun yarns export was worth US$10 million and were exported at an average unit price of US$2.83 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of viscose yarn, followed by Brazil and Bangladesh.

Blended spun yarns worth US$28 million were exported in January, including 16 million kg of PC yarns and 4.2 million kg of PV yarns.

Egypt was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Bangladesh while Turkey was the largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Brazil.

All kinds of filament yarns shipment stood at 56 million kg, valued at US$92.50 million or INR669 crore. Nylon filament exports declined sharply in January from its level a year ago while viscose filament, which were falling sharply, were up 13% year on year. Polyester filaments export was down 12% during the month from a year ago but up 14% compared with

the previous month.

All kinds of manmade staple fibres shipment totaled 32 million kg, valued at US$35 million or INR255 crore. Polyester staple fibre exports were up 11% in volume and 3% in terms of US$. The per unit realization was US$0.88 a kg or INR64 a kg, down 7% year on year.

Viscose fibre export rebounded 12% in volume and 9% in US$ with price realisation averaging down 3%.

Cotton fibre shipment in January, the peak month for any marketing season, was slightly down compared to last year in volume at 1.34 lakh bales worth INR2,912 crore or US$403 million. This was also an extension of a good start to the season. Bangladesh was the largest market for Indian cotton during the month, followed by China and Vietnam.

Export price realisation for cotton averaged INR128 a kg or US cents 80.38 per pound during January.

This was below Cotlook A index, the global spot price benchmark but was above domestic spot price for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6.

During the month, Cotlook averaged US$87.40 per pound while Shankar-6 was at US cents 75.64 per pound, making Indian cotton competitive in global market.

FEBRUARY 2021

COTTON REPORT

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MULTIPLE UPS AND DOWNS SEEN IN COTTON INDUSTRY

The February forecast shows slightly lower beginning stocks.

Higher production and consumption are largely offsetting. Ending stocks are down marginally. Higher production in China, Australia,

and Pakistan more than offsets lower production in India. Production in China is raised sharply on higher‐ than‐normal last season ginnings. Consumption is raised

in China and India on stronger expected recovery in mill demand.

Global trade reflects these changes and is raised slightly on higher imports for China.

Reference https://downloads.usda.library.cornell.edu/usdaesmis/files/kp78gg36g/w9505t51b/jd473p90k/cotton.pdf FEBRUARY 2021

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CASE STUDY

Ikea In India – Case study Ragini GUPTA Trainee Editor at TVC P.G Student, Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design SNDT Women’s University

Ikea

is a world renowned company of ready to assemble furniture, kitchen appliances and home textiles. It is based out of Agunnaryd, Sweden. It was initially started by Ingvar Kamprad, founder of IKEA in 1943 which is also the full form of the acronym of IK in IKEA. INGKA Holding B.V. is the company which owns the IKEA Group which handles its retail, centers, customer satisfaction and many other services a MNC needs. IKEA Brand is owned and manages by Inter IKEA Systems B.V. which is owned by Inter IKEA Holding B.V. It has made its presence in India and has planned growing its root here and opened recently in Navi Mumbai in December 2020.

The main USP of this multinational conglomerate is that its furniture are DIY - Do It Yourself. Which means that one has to assemble themselves and will not get it ready made. The pros of this is 1. Modern designs which are ecofriendly.

2. Less packaging cost because of less surface area, thus less time in assembling and packaging.

3. Less costly in shipping and keeping.

4. Less land needed for showcasing and storing 5. Less cost in handling and procuring 6. Benefits the buyer to buy and shift.

7. Gives an experience to make something out of unassembled parts 8. Less costly for the buyer as well.

9. Online shopping is possible of the same, 10. And since it is detachable, long term uses of the furniture increases since transporting and customizing gets easy.

IKEA has been sourcing from India for over 35 years with over 50 suppliers, 45,000 direct employees, and 400,000 people in the extended supply chain producing for IKEA stores worldwide. Thus it started its in-house store in Hyderabad and Navi Mumbai, Hyderabad being its first and Navi Mumbai being second. IKEA also plans to open two small stores in Mumbai prior to which it already has online presence in Mumbai, Hyderabad, and Pune.

Features of IKEA Navi Mumbai are as follows: 1. It is situated in Village Turbhe and Pawana TTC Industrial area, Thane-Belapur Road, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra 2. It oprates from Monday to Sunday from 11am to 9 pm.

3. Registration is required post Covid for weekend.

4. Website is - https://www.ikea. com/in/en/stores/mumbai/navi/ 5. The store employs close to 1200 employees out of which 50 % are women, 40 % are from Navi Mumbai and 70 % from Turbhe and

Ghansoli.

6. It has the largest kids play area, named Småland (Swedish for small lands) amongst all the IKEA stores worldwide.

7. Three storey structure , including smaland, restaurant, café, market hall, furniture showroom, self service warehouse, external warehouse, cash register, return and exchange area and two level parking ground with electronic chargers.

8. Staff wearing Tee shirts of yellow and blue colour and “Hej” on the back meaning hello in Sweden.

9. Rooms are theme based and personalized acoording to profession usage age gender etc.

10. Sleep mattress testing place is also there.

IKEA has some basic features in But the features of IKEA India involves it’s designer Akansha Deo, who is experimenting with the loops of the fabric to give more fuzzy feeling to its user and that she is doing by groundwork. She started experimenting on different yarns and wool with Indian artisans and combined tradition textiles with other textiles to form rugs for the collection LOKALT. She is using the traditional printing, dyeing, frame looms and said, “I wanted to use the traditional ‘punja’ loom technique, but create a very graphic, playful and modern expression with the textiles. I played with different scales and colors with the techniques to create an exaggerated 3D effect.”

FEBRUARY 2021

CASE STUDY Punja is a traditional manual loom technique where the artisan sits in front of a vertical frame loom and keeps the design in front of them and then uses a tool with metallic fingers to beat the weft into the warp tightly. Akansha was also inspired by the traditional embroidery ‘Kantha’ Also in 2019, Ikea announced the goal to convert all virgin polyester into recycled textile by the end of 2020. At the end of 2020 IKEA converted approx. 100,000 metric tons virgin polyester to recycles products, which puts IKEA as one of the leaders of converting virgin to recycled polyester in terms of volumes.

Polyester is one of the most widely

used fibres in the world, accounting roughly half of the fibres used and 80% of the synthetic fibres.

IKEA’s stores are naturally culture based. The stores keep on changing due to its location and profitability. Many outlets have been closed or reinvented due to occurring loss and have menus or furniture according to the country and taste of the people. 5% of IKEA’s sales come from Food. Since it is a new entrant after Covid, its performance is unpredictable because, as we sit more at our houses and less outside it can see a great success but on the same hand as economy and jobs of people are recovering at a slower pace, ex-

57

penditure from houses are predicted less.

One cordially invites IKEA in India with open arms with a hope it will create beautiful homes and memories also will create employment and growth in economy by many means.

Refernces https://en.wikipedia.org /wiki/ IKEA https://www.ikea.com/ in/en/ stores/mumbai/navi/ https://www.ikea.com/ in/en/ this-is-ikea/newsroom/ikea-toopen-its-navi-mumbai-storeon-december-18-with-fullhealth-and-safety-measures-

PHOTO GALLERY OF IKEA MUMBAI

FEBRUARY 2021

58

CASE STUDY

PHOTO GALLERY OF IKEA MUMBAI

FEBRUARY 2021

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