November 2020 by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

VOLUME 8 | ISSUE NO. 11 | RS 100 | Pages 60 ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

NOVEMBER 2020

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COVER STORY

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CONTENTS COVER STORY

08 Kevlar the super tough fibre! 13 Clothing from chiengora fibres of chitosan concentration on 100% cotton fabric to study antimicrobial property 15 Effect BIO-NANO MATERIAL

Bio-nanomaterials for development of health care textiles

44 50 52 56

ECONOMY UPDATE INTERVIEW The crown- Journey of Miss India 1964 The recycle man of India who created use out of the useless Journey of a successful educationist

ROLE OF GST ADVERTISER INDEX

of GST in facilitating chances in the textile industry of India 24 Role

Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : LRT Front Inside : Rimtex Page 3 : n9 resil chemical Page 4 : Sitex 2021 Page 5 : Rieter

SUSTAINABILITY of sustainability in fashion and 26 Application textile industry fabricated clothing built in sustainability 36 Bio A project reported of textile research institute & education programs to gear-up textile industry 33 Need

FASHION UPDATE

CONTRIBUTERS

Innovation in crises- A view on virtual fashion shows

HR UPDATE

Selecting the right fit for the role

HANDLOOM

A wholesome glimpse of handloom sector in the middle of market

YARN REPORT

Yarn export flat in october, cotton gets a good start

Mr.Vaibhav Gaikhwad

Mr. Satish Patil

Mr. Radha Gobinda Das

Mrs. Supriya Shirhatti

Ms. Kaviya.S.S

Ms. Meher Castelino

Dr. N.N Mahapatra

Dr. P.V Kadole

Dr. Binesh R. Desai

Dr. V.D Gotmare

Ms. Preety Gupta

Dr. S.S Kole

Mr. Debjit Biswas

Dr. P.P Raichurkar

Mr. Gautam Bar

Mr.Nitin Madkaikar

Mr. Rajiv Mishra

EDITORIAL

Indian Economy heading for Recovery The good news from GDP numbers for the second quarter, July-September; is that the economic contraction has come down to 7.5% from almost 24% in the first quarter of 2020- 2021. COVID made virtual economy, with forced sustainable living with limited resources and shrunk purchasing power affected economy. Wholesale Price Index (WPI), contribution of manufactured products which comprises of 64.23 % in which the share of Textiles is 4.88 %, Readymade Apparel is 0.81 %, Leather Products is 0.54 % as on 16th November, 2020. Current WPI base rate for inflation for Textiles is minus 2.22, Apparel is minus 0.14, Leather Products are minus 0.42, in comparison to last year. For all commodities, Inflation is Plus 1.48. This clearly means the consumption of Textile, Apparel and Leather Goods are less as compare to primary goods. The Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers (CPI-U) increased 1.0 percent from July 2019 to July 2020. Prices of all items, less food and energy increased 1.6 percent over the last 12 months. Consumer Price Index CPI in India averaged 123.37 points from 2011 until 2020, reaching an all-time high of 158.40 points in October of 2020. Wholesale price index (WPI) reduced to approx.122 base points and Consumer Price Index (CPI) increased to approx.158 base points. Difference in WPI and CPI, is the supply chain and channel cost. In disruptive economy with disruptive supply chain has given birth to a lot of new digital channels, new segment of channel like resellers etc. Overall inflation rate is 5.5 %, manufactured products rate is 2.12 %. Reduction in the consumption of manufactured or secondary need products led to unconscious way of living sustainably. Will sustainability, Upcycling, recycling reduce the consumption pattern ? Wish you all Happy Christmas and Productive 2021 !

JIGNA SHAH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

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COVER STORY

KEVLAR The Super Tough Fibre! Vaibhav Gaikwad D.K.T.E Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranj,India

bstract In today’s fast growing market, apart from general apparel clothing, some special applications are expected from textile fibers. Such fibers are used specifically for protective clothing and thus require certain high performance properties. This generation of fibers has been recently developed in the 20 th century and are called high performance fibers. A class of these fibers have very high tenacity and high modulus which are used in applications such as bullet proof jackets, whereas another class of fibers would have high thermal or chemical resistance which can be used as flame resistant fabrics etc. High performance fibers include polymeric fibers such as aramids, aromatic copolyesters, extended chain flexible polyolefin etc.; carbon fiber; glass fibers; ceramic fibers and metallic fibers. High performance polymeric fibers being used for high mechanical properties should be highly oriented, linear aliphatic or aromatic molecules since flexible chains would give low melting polymers and thus low thermal resistance. On the other hand, carbon fibers are planar graphite structures with outstanding mechanical properties. Inorganic fibers have a three dimensional structure compared to a one dimensional and two dimensional structure of polymeric materials and carbon fibers respectively. They have very good mechanical properties but are brit-

tle and have the highest thermal resistance. However, carbon fibers as well as inorganic fibers (except glass fibers) are very expensive. In the following sections, particularly, polymeric fibers would be discussed in detail. Although in the past there were some research works had done and papers also been published, but this paper just simplifies the things as well as highlight some superb features of the Kevlar fiber. However this is not a research article rather than a review article. Keywords: history, chemical composition, production, properties, uses Introduction Kevlar fibers are para aramid fibers rather than meta aramid structure of Nomex. The monomers normally used for the production of the polymer for Kevlar fibers are p-phenylene diamine and terephthaloyl chloride. In Kevlar, the para-substitution of the monomers allows the benzene rings to lie centrally along the molecular axis. Due to this arrangement, greater number of intermolecular bonds and a stronger and a more thermally and chemically resistant fiber is formed than that for Nomex. These fibers have high tensile strength, high tensile modulus and high heat resistance because of the highly oriented rigid molecular structure. Kevlar is about five times lighter than steel in terms of the same tensile strength. This high strength Kevlar is produced by a special spinning process called

the Liquid crystal spinning. Now, there exists a series of first, second and third generations of para-aramids. For example, Kevlar HT which has 20% higher tenacity and Kevlar HM which has 40% higher modulus than the original Kevlar 29 are largely used in the composite and the aerospace industries. History Poly-paraphenylene terephthalamide (K29) – branded Kevlar – was invented by Polish- American chemist Stephanie Kwolek while working for DuPont, in anticipation of a gasoline shortage. In 1964, her group began searching for a new lightweight strong fiber to use for light, but strong tires. The polymers she had been working with at the time, poly-p- phenyleneterephthalate and polybenzamide, formed liquid crystal while in solution, something unique to those polymers at the time. The solution was &quot;cloudy, opalescent upon being stirred, and of low viscosity&quot; and usually was thrown away. However, Kwolek persuaded the technician, Charles Smullen, who ran the spinneret, to test her solution, and was amazed to find that the fiber did not break, unlike nylon. Her supervisor and her laboratory director understood the significance of her discovery and a new field of polymer chemistry quickly arose. By 1971, modern Kevlar was introduced. However, Kwolek was not very involved in developing the applications of Kevlar. Kevlar 149 was invented by Dr. JaNOVEMBER 2020

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cob Lahijani of Dupont in the 1980s. Chemical Composition of Kevlar Fibre The chemical composition of Kevlar is poly para-phenyleneterephthalamide (PPD-T) and it is more properly known as a para-aramid. It is oriented para-substituted aromatic units. Aramids belong to the family of nylons. Common nylons, such as nylon 6, 6 do not have very good structural properties, so the para-aramid distinction is important. Aramid fibers like Nomex or Kevlar, however, are ring compounds based on the structure of benzene as opposed to linear compounds used to make nylon. The aramid ring gives Kevlar thermal stability, while the para structure gives it high strength and modulus. Kevlar is made from a condensation reaction of para-phenylene diamine and terephthaloyl (PPD-T) chloride. The resultant aromatic polyamide contains aromatic and amide groups which makes them rigid rod like polymers. The rigid rod like structure results in a high glass transition temperature and poor solubility; which makes fabrication of these polymers, by conventional drawing techniques, difficult. Instead, they are melt spun from liquid crystalline polymer solutions as described later. The Kevlar fiber is an array of molecules oriented parallel to each other like a package of uncooked spaghetti. This orderly, untangled arrangement of molecules is described as a crystalline structure. Crystallinity is obtained by spinning PPD-T solutions, which involves extruding the molten polymer solution and drawing in the flow direction. Kevlar can acquire a high degree of alignment of long, straight polymer chains parallel to the fiber axis. The structure exhibits anisotropic properties, with higher strength and modulus in the fiber longitudinal direction than in the axial direction. The extruded material also possesses a febrile structure. This structure results in poor shear and compression properties for aramid composites. Hydrogen bonds form between the polar

amide groups on adjacent chains and they hold the individual Kevlar polymer chains together. Hydrogen bonds form between the polar amide groups

tions, such as cables, asbestos replacement, tires, and brake linings. Kevlar K49 – high modulus used in

The reaction of 1, 4-phenylenediamine (para-phenylenediamine) with terephthaloyl chloride yielding Kevlar Kevlar (poly paraphenylene terephthalamide) production is expensive because of the difficulties arising from using concentrated sulfuric acid, needed to keep the water-insoluble polymer in solution during its synthesis and spinning. Grades of Kevlar There are three grades of Kevlar available: Kevlar 29, Kevlar 49, and Kevlar 149. Tensile modulus is a function of molecular orientation. As a spun fiber, Kevlar 29 (a high toughness variant) has a modulus of 62 GPA (9 Mpsi). Heat treatment under tension increases the crystalline orientation. The resulting fiber, Kevlar 49, has a modulus of 131 GPA. Several variant grades of Kevlar are available: Kevlar K-29 – in industrial applica-

cable and rope products. Kevlar K100 – colored version of Kevlar Kevlar K119 – higher-elongation, flexible and more fatigue resistant Kevlar K129 – higher tenacity for ballistic applications Kevlar K149 – highest tenacity for ballistic, armor, and aerospace applications Kevlar AP – 15% higher tensile strength than K-29 Kevlar XP – lighter weight resin and KM2 plus fiber combination Kevlar KM2 – enhanced ballistic resistance for armor applications Properties of Kevlar Fibre Kevlar is a very strong fiber. In fact, it is the strongest textile fiber available today. It has tenacity in the range 22-26 gpd with a breaking

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COVER STORY elongation of 2.5-4.4%. The fiber is cylindrical in the longitudinal microscopic view and circular in cross-sectional view. It is a dense fiber with density of 1.44-1.47g/cc. Similar to Nomex, it has average moisture regain of about 4.3% in standard atmosphere. Due to the aromatic structure of the polymer, Kevlar is difficult to ignite. Para aramids generally have high glass transition temperatures nearing 370Â°C and do not melt or burn easily, but carbonise above 425Â°C. Regarding the chemical properties of the fiber, the fiber is unaffected by most acids under normal conditions and has good resistance to alkalis and solvents, but not resistant to bleaches. It also has excellent resistance to mildew and aging. All aramid fibers are however prone to photodegradation and need protection against the sun when used out of doors. Applications of Kevlar Cryogenics - Kevlar is often used in the field of cryogenics for its low thermal conductivity and high strength relative to other materials for suspension purposes. It is most often used to suspend a paramagnetic salt enclosure from a superconducting magnet mandrel in order to minimize any heat leaks to the paramagnetic material. It is also used as a thermal standoff or structural support where low heat leaks are desired. Personal protection Armor - Kevlar is a well-known component of personal armor such as combat helmets, ballistic face masks, and ballistic vests. The PASGT helmet and vest used by United States military forces, use Kevlar as a key component in their construction. Other military uses include bulletproof face masks and spall liners used to protect the crew of armoured fighting vehicles. Nimitzclass aircraft carriers use Kevlar reinforcement in vital areas. Civilian applications include high heat resistance uniforms worn by firefighters, body armour worn by police officers, security, and police tactical

Pieces of a Kevlar helmet used to help absorb the blast of a grenade

Kevlar is used to manufacture gloves, sleeves, jackets, chaps and other articles of clothing designed to protect users from cuts, abrasions and heat. Kevlar-based protective gear is often considerably lighter and thinner than equivalent gear made of more traditional materials. It is used for motorcycle safety clothing, especially in the areas featuring padding such as shoulders and elbows. In fencing it is used in the protective jackets, breeches, plastrons and the bib of the masks. It is increasingly being used in the peto, the padded covering which protects the picadors' horses in the bullring. Speed skaters also frequently wear an under-layer of Kevlar fabric to prevent potential wounds from skates in the event of a fall or collision. Sports Shoes - In 2013, Nike used Kevlar in shoes for the first time. It launched the Elite II Series, with enhancements to its earlier version of basketball shoes by using Kevlar in the anterior as well as the shoe laces. This was done to decrease the elasticity of the tip of the shoe in contrast to nylon used conventionally. As Kevlar expanded by about 1% against nylon which expanded by about 30%. Shoes in this range included LeBron, HyperDunk and Zoom Kobe VII. However these shoes were launched at a price range much higher than average cost of basketball shoes. It was also used in the laces for the Adidas F50 adiZero Prime football boot. Sports Equipment In kyudo or Japanese archery, it

may be used as an alternative to more expensive hemp for bow strings. It is one of the main materials used for paraglide suspension lines. It is used as an inner lining for some bicycle tires to prevent punctures. In table tennis, plies of Kevlar are added to custom ply blades, or paddles, in order to increase bounce and reduce weight. Tennis racquets are sometimes strung with Kevlar. It is used in sails for high performance racing boats. Kevlar is a very popular material for racing canoes. Cycle tires - Several companies, including Continental AG, manufacture cycle tires with Kevlar to protect against punctures. Foldingbead bicycle tires, use Kevlar as a bead in place of steel for weight reduction and strength. A side effect of the folding bead is a reduction in shelf and floor space needed to display cycle tires in a retail environment, as they are folded and placed in small boxes. Music Audio equipment - Kevlar has also been found to have useful acoustic properties for loudspeaker cones, specifically for bass and mid-range drive units. Additionally, Kevlar has been used as a strength member in fiber optic cables such as the ones used for audio data transmissions. Bowed string instruments - Kevlar can be used as an acoustic core on bows for string instruments. Kevlar provides strength, flexibility, and stability for the bow users. To date, the only manufacturer of this type of bow is Coda Bow. Kevlar is also presently used as a material for tailcords (a.k.a. tailpiece adjusters), which connect the tailpiece to the endpin of bowed string instruNOVEMBER 2020

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ments. Drumheads - Kevlar is sometimes used as a material on marching snare drums. It allows for an extremely high amount of tension, resulting in a cleaner sound. There is usually a resin poured onto the Kevlar to make the head airtight, and a nylon top layer to provide a flat striking surface. This is one of the primary types of marching snare drum heads. Woodwind reeds - Kevlar is used in the woodwind reeds of Fibracell. The material of these reeds is a composite of aerospace materials designed to duplicate the way nature constructs cane reed. Very stiff but sound absorbing Kevlar fibers are suspended in a lightweight resin formulation. Motor vehicles Chassis and bodywork - Kevlar is sometimes used in structural components of cars, especially highvalue performance cars such as the Ferrari F40. Brakes -The chopped fiber has been used as a replacement for asbestos in brake pads. Indeed, aramids release a lower level of airborne fibres than asbestos brakes. Other uses Fire dancing - Wicks for fire dancing props are made of composite materials with Kevlar in them. Kevlar by itself does not absorb fuel very well, so it is blended with other materials such as fiberglass or cotton. Kevlar's high heat resistance allows the wicks to be reused many times.

Fire poi on a beach in San Francisco

Frying pans - Kevlar is sometimes used as a substitute for Teflon in some non-stick frying pans. Rope, cable, sheath- Kevlar mooring line. The fiber is used in rope and in cable, where the fibers are kept parallel within a polyethylene sleeve. The cables have been used in suspension bridges such as the bridge at Aberfeldy in Scotland. They have also been used to stabilize cracking concrete cooling towers by circumferential application followed by tensioning to close the cracks. Kevlar is widely used as a protective outer sheath for optical fiber cable, as its strength protects the cable from damage and kinking. When used in this application it is commonly known by the trademarked name Parafil. Building construction - A retractable roof of over 60,000 square feet (5,575 square metres) of Kevlar was a key part of the design of Montreal Olympic stadium for the 1976 Summer Olympics. It was spectacularly unsuccessful, as it was completed 10 years late and replaced just 10 years later in May 1998 after a series of problems. Expansion joints and hoses - Kevlar can be found as a reinforcing layer in rubber bellows expansion joints and rubber hoses, for use in high temperature applications and for its high strength. It is also found as a braid layer used on the outside of hose assemblies, to add protection against sharp objects. Particle physics - A thin Kevlar window has been used by the NA48 experiment at CERN to separate a vacuum vessel from a vessel at nearly atmospheric pressure, both 192 cm in diameter. The window has provided vacuum tightness combined with reasonably small amount (only 0.3% to 0.4% of radiation length) of material. Smartphones - The Motorola RAZR Family, the Motorola Droid Maxx, OnePlus 2, and Pocophone F1 have a Kevlar backplate, chosen over other materials such as carbon fiber due to its resilience and lack of interference with signal transmission.

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Marine current turbines and wind turbines - The Kevlar fiber/epoxy matrix composite materials can be used in marine current turbines (MCT) or wind turbines due to their high specific strength and light weight compared to other fibers. Electricity generation - Kevlar was used by scientists at Georgia Institute of Technology as a base textile for an experiment in electricity-producing clothing. This was done by weaving zinc oxide nanowires into the fabric. If successful, the new fabric will generate about 80 milliwatts per square meter. Conclusion Kevlar is mainly used for two reasons and both for performance as I is lightweight and easy to integrate. A thin blanket can serve as structural reinforcement or ballistic protection, everywhere from seismic shear walls to bank counters. Fibres sprinkled into carbon composites can cut weight and boost strength. The grades Kevlar 49 and 149 are the lightest and most robust; Kevlar 29 is comparable in potency to glass fibre, but weighs less. The fact is, Kevlar is still expensive costs need to come down. References 1. Mera, Hiroshi; Takata, Tadahiko (2000). "HighPerformance Fibers". Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. doi:10.1002/14356007.a13_001. ISBN 978-3527306732. 2. Jump up to:a b "What is Kevlar". DuPont. Archived from the original on 2007-03-20. Retrieved 2007-03-28. 3. "Wholly aromatic carbocyclic polycarbonamide fiber having orientation... - US 3819587 A - IP.com". ip.com. 4. Tatsuya HongĹŤ, Glyn O. Phillips, New Fibers, Ellis Horwood, 1990, p. 22. 5. J. K. Fink, Handbook of Engineering and Specialty Thermoplastics: Polyolefins and Styrenics, Scrivener Publishing, 2010, p. 35. 6. Jump up to:a b c "Inventing Modern America: Insight â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Stephanie Kwolek". Lemelson-MIT program. Retrieved May 24, 2009. 7. Stephanie Louise Kwolek Biography. Bookrags. Archivedfrom the original on June

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8. Quinn, Jim. "I was able to be Creative and work as hard as I wanted". American Heritage Publishing. Archived from the original on December

23. Pagen, Dennis (1990), Paragliding Flight: Walking on Air, Pagen Books, p. 9, ISBN 978-0936310-09-1

2, 2008. Retrieved May 24, 2009. 9. https://digital.hagley.org/VID_2011320_B05_ ID01 10. How Kevlar® works: a simple introduction. Explainthatstuff.com (2009-12-07). Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 11.http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheettext.aspx?matguid=706f16a3a8be4682845 71dd36bbdea35 12. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/279740540_Determination_of_Fracture_ Behavior_under_Biaxial_Loading_of_Kevlar_149 13. Kevlar K-29 AP Technical Data Sheet – Dupont 14. Kevlar XP – Dupont 15. Kevlar KM2 Technical Description. dupont. com. Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 16. Yousif, Emad; Haddad, Raghad (2013-08-23). "Photodegradation and photostabilization of polymers, especially polystyrene: review". SpringerPlus. 2: 398. doi:10.1186/21931801-2-398. ISSN 2193-1801. PMC 4320144. PMID 25674392. 17. Quintanilla, J. (1990). "Microstructure and properties of random heterogeneous materials : a review of theoretical results". Polymer Engineering and Science. 39 (3): 559–585. doi:10.1002/pen.11446. 18. Michael C. Petty, Molecular electronics: from principles to practice, John Wiley & Sons, 2007, p. 310 19. KEVLAR Technical Guide. dupont.com. Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 20. Jump up to:a b Body Armor Made with Kevlar. (2005-0604). DuPont the Miracles of Science. Retrieved November 4, 2011 21. Kevlar – DuPont Personal Protection. dupont.com. Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 22. Genzini, Luigi. "Kyudo – the way of the bow ; The art of shooting the traditional Japanese bow according to the Heki Insai Ha School"

24. "Nike Basketball's ELITE Series 2.0 Rises Above the Rest". Nike News. March 20, 2013. Retrieved April 16, 2017. 25. "SafetySystem Breaker". www.continentaltires.com. Retrieved 2019-02-25. 26. Tom Ritchey 27. Audio speaker use. Audioholics.com (200907-23). Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 28. Welcome to Kevlar. (2005-06-04). DuPont the Miracles of Science. Retrieved November 4, 2011 29. Carbon fiber bows for violin, viola, cello and bass Archived 2011-11-10 at the Wayback Machine. CodaBow. Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 30. Carbon fiber bows for violin, viola, cello and bass Archived 2012-03-09 at the Wayback Machine. CodaBow. Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 31. Tailpieces and Tailcords Archived 2012-1123 at the Wayback Machine Aitchison Mnatzaganian cello makers, restorers and dealers. Retrieved on 2012-12-17. 32. "Falam® Slam". Remo. Retrieved 11 December 2019. 33. "FibraCell Website". 34. "The story of the Ferrari F40 – by its creators". 2017-07-21. 35. "Superstar Kevlar compound disc brake pads review". BikeRadar. Retrieved 2016-10-23. 36. Jaffrey, S.A.M.T; Rood, A.P.; Scott, R.M. (1992). "Fibrous dust release from asbestos substitutes in friction products". The Annals of Occupational Hygiene. 36 (2): 173–81. doi:10.1093/annhyg/36.2.173. ISSN 0003-4878. PMID 1530232.

39. Fabric Produces Electricity As You Wear It. Scientific American (2008-02-22). Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 40. Roof of the Montreal Olympic Stadium at Structurae 41. Clem's Baseball ~ Olympic Stadium. Andrewclem.com. Retrieved on 2012-05-26. 42. Shepherd, Robert; Stokes, Adam; Nunes, Rui; Whitesides, George (October 2013). "Soft Machines That are Resistant to Puncture and That Self Seal" (PDF). Advanced Materials. 25(46): 6709–6713. doi:10.1002/adma.201303175. PMID 24123311. 43. Gong (Ed), RH (2011). Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures: Developments and Applications. Woodhead Publishing. p. 349. ISBN 9781845697570. 44. Meyer, Bruce (November 9, 2015). "Unaflex adding space, capacity at S.C. plant". Rubber & Plastics News. 45. Droid RAZR. (2011-10-11). Motorola Mobility. Retrieved November 4, 2011 46. Wang, Jifeng; Norbert Müller (December 2011). "Numerical investigation on composite material marine current turbine using CFD". Central European Journal of Engineering. 1 (4): 334–340. Bibcode:2011CEJE....1..334W. doi:10.2478/s13531-011-0033-6. 47. Kadolph, Sara J. Anna L. Langford. Textiles, Ninth Edition. Pearson Education, Inc 2002. Upper Saddle River, NJ 48. D. Tanner; J. A. Fitzgerald; B. R. Phillips (1989). "The Kevlar Story – an Advanced Materials Case Study". Angewandte Chemie International Edition in English. 28 (5): 649–654. doi:10.1002/anie.198906491. 49. E. E. Magat (1980). "Fibers from Extended Chain Aromatic Polyamides, New Fibers and Their Composites". Philosophical Transactions of

37. M.Rubinstein, R.H.Colby, Polymer Physics, Oxford University Press, p337

the Royal Society A. 294 (1411): 463–472. Bibcode:1980RSPTA.294..463M. doi:10.1098/ rsta.1980.0055. JSTOR 36370. S2CID 121588983.

38. Burgoyne, C. J. (1987-03-01). "Structural use of parafil ropes". Construction and Building Materials. 1 (1): 3–13. doi:10.1016/0950-

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https://www.physics.ncsu.edu/stxm/science/ kevlar/kevlar.html

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Clothing from Chiengora (Dog) Fibres Dr. N. N. Mahapatra Business Head (Dyes) Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.

co-friendly fibers means more than a label. In this modern age of technology and quick results, there are always a few people who are keeping alive the old ways of doing things. Maybe it is a hobby, maybe it is a passion, or maybe it is a family tradition, but they learn and carry on a slower way of producing. Many are organic, but all of them take more time and care to create products with less impact on the environment. There are communities of hand-spinners all over the world, making natural fiber yarn from raw materials. Small, sustainable farms and ranches are providing a lot of eco-friendly fibers that create handspun slow yarn. Animal fibers are natural fibers that consist largely of particular proteins. Instances are silk, hair/fur (including wool) and feathers. The animal fibers used most commonly, both in the manufacturing world as well as by the hand spinners, are wool from domestic sheep and silk. Also very popular are alpaca fiber and mohair from Angora goats. Unusual fibers such as Angora wool from rabbits and Chiengora from dogs also exist, but are rarely used for mass production. Not all animal fibers have the same properties and even within a species, the fiber is not consistent. Merino is a very soft, fine wool, while Costwold is coarser, and yet both merino and Cotswold are types of sheep. This comparison can be viewed on the microscopic level,

comparing the diameter and structure of the fiber. With animal fibers, and natural fibers in general, the individual fibers look different, whereas all synthetic fibers look the same. This provides an easy way to differentiate between natural and synthetic fibers under a microscope. Chiengora (pronounced she-angora) refers to yarn spun from dog hair. Chien is the French word for dog, and gora is derived from “angora” the soft fur of a rabbit. Spinning dog hair is not a new art form. The spinning of dog hair is an ancient art form dating back to prehistoric Scandinavia and in textiles from the Navajo Indians of North America. It was the main fiber spun on the North American continent before the Spaniards introduced sheep. The hair of dogs is known as Chiengora fibre, which has been used in the textile industry since long.

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The best hairs for this application are from ‘Northern’ breeds, such as Newfoundlands, Chow Chows, Samoyed, Norwegian Elkhounds, and the like. In modern times it is rarely used. In general it is only used by hand spinners with pet dogs. Chiengora is spun from the undercoat of a double coated breed. The average Labrador or Dalmation will not have the right kind of fur to be spun into yarn. The fur needs to be soft, woolly and relatively long in order to work for the spinner. Some breeds which can be combed out to make dog wool yarn are: · Newfoundland · Bernese · Spitz · Golden retriever · Great Pyrenees To collect the fur, one must brush it out of the coat. Shaving the dog

COVER STORY will not work, as you will have to separate the long, fine, glossy outer hairs from the undercoat. Far too much work! Instead, use a slicker brush or comb, brush out the undercoat, and collect it carefully from the brush. Collected dog wool must not be washed, unless one is a professional fiber artist with experience in preparing fleeces. Dog fur felts (mats) very easily if it is washed it incorrectly. Instead, gather it into a bag and store it carefully. If you are not a spinner, you can ask at your local spinning guild or yarn store to find a local spinner who is willing to spin the dog fur into yarn for you. Be sure that the spinner has experience in working with dog fur, because it requires more care than sheep’s wool. Dog fur when spun into yarn does not smell like dog, any more than wool yarn smells like sheep. When the spinner prepares the fur, they will remove the oils which cause that “doggy” smell. Most spinners will blend the dog fur with sheep’s wool (often merino) in order to compensate for some faults with chiengora. Unlike wool, dog wool does not have “bounce,” which means that a garment made from chiengora will tend to get stretched out. Blending the chiengora with merino fibers will help your garment keep its shape. Chiengora is a delightful yarn, with a halo and a soft feel similar to that of angora or mohair. It has much more loft and insulation ability than sheep fibers, which makes it surprisingly warm – far warmer than wool. Something to keep in mind when you’re planning a garment! The Chiengora Spinning Process Step 1. Raw fiber is received and is immediately weighed and catalogued. Step 2. Fiber is then prepared for cleaning. It is initially inspected by hand. To reduce cost, you are encouraged to inspect your fiber at home and remove any sticks or debris before shipment of dirty fiber. Step 3. Fiber is washed and deodorized using specialized methods,

which prevent the occurrence of natural felting. Step 4. Once dry, the clean fiber is collected and carded using a manually operated drum carder in preparation for spinning. Step 5. A spinning wheel is used to hand spin the carded fiber to a selected thickness. Two strands are spun and then plied together, producing 2-ply yarn. Step 6. A skein of yarn is made using a yarn swift. The skeins are washed, weighted and hung to dry. Step 7. Now the fibers are ready for its intended purpose! A roving is a long and narrow bundle of fibre. It is usually used to spin woollen yarn. A roving can be created by carding the fibre, and it is then drawn into long strips. Because it is carded, the fibres are not parallel, though drawing it into strips may line the fibres up a bit. Roving is similar to sliver. Because roving has been created by carding, the fibres are less parallel than topcombed and are not of uniform length. Carded rovings look fluffier than combed top, which looks smooth and has a high lustre. The fibres in combed top tend to be of a fairly uniform length due to the method of preparation. Pencil roving is a type of roving that has been drawn until it is the size of a fat pencil. It can be used by spinners with minimal drafting. Knitters also use pencil roving, similar to Lopi style yarns, or when making a thrummed item. Regular roving can also be used in thrummed knitting. A rolag is a roll of fibre generally used to spin woollen yarn. A rolag is created by first carding the fibre, using handcards, and then by gently rolling the fibre off the cards. If properly prepared, a rolag will be uniform in width, distributing the fibres evenly. The Chiengora Weaving Process Weaving is a textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns are interlaced to create fabric. It can be a versatile and practical option when deter-

mining how to use your Chiengora. Woven Chiengora can be used to create scarves, wraps, blankets, throw pillows, and fabric for sewing projects. Step 1. Wool is measured using a warping mill to determine the warp, or size of any given weaving project. Step 2. That wool is then threaded through the floor loom in preparation for hand spun Chiengora to be incorporated. Step 3. Once the wool is secured in place, Chiengora is woven across the width of the warp to create an interlacing fabric. Step 4. When the weaving is completed, the Chiengora fabric is removed and the ends are tied off. Properties of Chiengora Fibres Chiengora is up to 80% warmer than wool and sheds water well. The fiber is not elastic like wool. Chiengora tends to fluff with use, creating a halo effect. It has a similar appearance to angora and is luxuriously soft. It is warm, even in frigid temperatures. Often Chiengora is blended with wool during the carding process. This blend has some give to it, which is preferable while knitting. It is also often blended with wool in order to create a yarn with less heat insulation. It is warm, even in frigid temperatures. Chiengora is waterproof, durable and also incredibly soft and fluffy – perfect for clothing and accessories next to skin. Occasionally people with a strong sense of smell complain that Chiengora never loses its doggy odor, but it has been found that a good washing removes any trace of the original wearer. Chiengora can be very hot when used by itself, so it is best mixed with sheeps wool. Wool adds durabilitiy, elasticity, and breathablity to dog wool fabric. When wet, it can smell a little funny, but any fiber smells different and stronger when wet. Many common varieties of dog have a soft fuzzy undercoat which is suitable for spinning into luxury yarn. It maintains a “halo” of fuzz around it after being spun, similar to moNOVEMBER 2020

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hair or angora rabbit. Once knitted or woven, the halo covers the fabric surface. It is a fine alternative to faux fur or real fur as it is a natural fiber but no animal was harmed for the product. In fact, healthier happier dogs will produce better wool! Chiengora is rarely used as a commercially produced fiber, but occasionally a designer will commission some specialty pieces utilizing it. Natural protein fibers, such as wool, mohair, and silk, currently used in textile production can be very costly. Although non-traditional, a pro-

tein fiber, such as chiengora (dog hair), can prove to be a cheaper, environmentally friendly, and suitable substitute. However, very little information on the properties of these fibers can be found in the literature. As per the research the physical and mechanical properties of hair combed from 18 dog breeds were measured and compared to those of traditional animal hair fibers. Unwashed dog hair was collected, bagged and labeled by professional pet groomers. Results

show that length, linear density, tenacity, strain, and elastic modulus of chiengora fibers are all similar to those of traditional protein fibers. Results also show that hairs from some breeds may be suitable for short-staple or long-staple processing. Uses of Chiengora Fibres Woven Chiengora can be used to create scarves, wraps, blankets, throw pillows, and fabric for sewing projects, Home Decors, Hats, Mitts, Scarves.

Effect of Chitosan concentration on 100% cotton fabric to study antimicrobial property Mrs. Supriya Shirhatti, Mr. Satish Patil Department of textiles, DKTES Textile Engineering Institute

bstract

crustaceans (shrimp, crab and other shellfish) Chitosan is obtained from Chitin by a deacetylation process. Chitin, the polysaccharide polymer from which chitosan is derived, is a cellulose-like polymer consisting mainly of unbranched chains of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.Chitosan can be used in water processing. Chitosan is the richest source of antimicrobial compounds. This study compares the antibacterial activity

extent, after which increase does not make a difference in the antimicrobial activity. Keywords: Chitosan, E. coli, S. aureus, antimicrobial.

In recent years, several technologies have been developed for modiIntroduction fying cotton and cotton blends as multi-functional textiles. Surface Cotton is most important cellulose modification of cotton fabrics can fiber in textiles. Many finishes are impart wrinkle free finishes, selfapplied on these cotton and cotton cleaning properties, anti-microbial blends. The inherent properties of activity, UV protection, the textile fibres provide and flame retardancy. room for the growth of miSelf-cleaning features include Chitosan finish. The inherent properties of the textile fibres provide cro- organisms. Besides, Chitosan is a polysaccha- room for the growth of micro-organisms. Besides, the structure of the subride polymer containing the structure of the substrates and the chemical pro- strates and the chemical processes may induce more than 5,000 glucosacesses may induce the growth of microbes. the growth of microbes. mine and acetyglucosaHumid and warm environmine units with molecument still aggravate the lar weights of over one of cotton fabric treated with Chiproblem. Infestation by microbes million Daltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Chitin is found in tosan in different concentrations. cause cross infection by pathogens fungi, arthropods and marine inWith increase in the concentration and develop odour, when the fabvertebrates. Commercially, Chitin of Chitosan, increases upto certain ric is worn next to skin. In addition, is derived from the exo-skeletons of NOVEMBERR 2020

COVER STORY the staining and loss of the performance properties of textile substrates are the results of microbial attack. With a view to protect the wearer and the textile substrate itself antimicrobial finish is applied to the textile materials. Antimicrobial textile products continue to increase in popular demand for fresh smelling, skin friendly and high-performance fabrics. Modern performance fabrics are required in much specialist application, sports textile is one example. This need to exhibit high degrees of performance in terms of longevity and durability by imparting antimicrobial properties to the fabrics. These properties can be improved as well as increase the comforts as hygiene factor making them more pleasant to wear. Odour can be neutralized and skin problems caused by microbial growth reduced thus emphasizing the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hygienicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; nature of the treated product. Microbes are the tiniest creatures not seen by the naked eye. They include a variety of microorganisms like Bacteria, Fungi, Algae and Viruses. Bacteria are unicellular organisms which grow rapidly under warmth and moisture. Further, sub-divisions in the bacteria family are Gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus), Gram negative (E-Coli), spore bearing or non-spore bearing type. Some specific types of bacteria are pathogenic and cause cross infection. Fungi, molds or mildew are complex organisms with slow growth rate. They stain the fabric and deteriorate the performance properties of the fabrics. Growing awareness towards health and hygiene has increased the demand of bioactive textiles. A durable finish is potentially effective means of controlling micro-organism on to textiles. In the last few decades, wide

Table 2.1. Fabric particulars

Table 2.2. Chemicals Used for the study

2.1.1. Chemicals used study:

in the

Materials and Methods 2.1 Materials -The cotton fabric with following specifications was used in the study:

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2.2

Experimental Method

2.2.1 Desizing- 100 % cotton fabric treated with 3-5 gpl cellulase enzyme desizing to remove size paste. Desizing of cotton fiber was carried as follows:

Table 2.3. Chemicals used for desizing In combined scouring and bleaching of cotton, the scouring process is accelerated in presence of H2O2 and less time is required to achieve good absorbency by the material. The process of combined scouring and bleaching was carried using Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 ) and Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH). After Completion of this process washing and draining of fabric was carried out. The process of combined scouring and bleaching is carried out in alkaline pH which is maintained by Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3 ). pH of combine scouring and bleaching was 9-11. The combine scouring and bleaching was carried out as follows:

2.2.3 Preparation of chitosan and application Chitosan was dissolved in 2% aqueous acetic acid solution. The fabric was first immersed in the pad bath for 10 min. padded up to 80±5% wet pickup on weight of fiber [O.W.F.], dried on pin frames at 100ᵒ C for 5 minutes. Cured at 180ᵒC for 2 minutes, washed and dried. Samples were cured at 180ᵒC for a period of 2 minutes. 2.2.4 Treatment of Chitosan on Fabric

Table 2.4. Chemicals used for Combined scouring and bleaching Different concentrations of solutions (3gpl, 4gpl, 5gpl, 6gpl, 7gpl, 8gpl, 9gpl 10gpl, 11gpl, 12gpl, 13gpl, 14gpl, 15gpl) keeping 65% expression, were prepared by dissolving chitosan overnight at room temperature. The pre-scoured and bleached cotton fabric was padded using pad-dry-cure method. The fabric samples were then dried at 80-85ᵒC to maintain the residual moisture content 8–10%.

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COVER STORY Table 2.5. Concentration of chitosan

each swatch. The jar was kept for 24 hours in the incubator at 37°C. After ehich, 50 ml of sterilized sa-

2.3 Testing and Analysis 2.3.1 Antimicrobial Activity Anti-microbial testing was done by AATCC test method 100:2004 for the quantitative assessment of the antibacterial effectiveness of the antimicrobial agents against Gram positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli). Circular swatches of 4.8 ± 0.1 cm in diameter were cut from the test fabric. The cut pieces were stacked in 250 ml wide mouth glass jar with a screw cap followed by sterilization at 121°C for 15 mins. Then 0.5 ml of the bacterial solution was added to the swatches so that whole of it is absorbed by

line water was added to each jar followed by 15 mins. shaking in the shaker. Further, three serial dilutions were done by taking 100 ml in 900 ml of saline water in Eppendorf micro test tubes. Nutrient agar plates were made and 100 ml of this diluted bacterial solution was inoculated into the agar plate and left in the incubator at 37°C. After 24 hours, the number of bacterial CFU of the bacteria formed on the agar plate were counted. Untreated cotton sample was used as the control sample every time. 2.3.2 Tensile Strength (ASTM D 5035) Prior to the test, specimens were

conditioned to moisture equilibrium in the standard atmosphere of 65 % relative humidity, 27 ± 2 0 C temperature. Samples (fabric strip) were cut by using the given template. Threads were ravelled from both side of the sample to exactly 5cm width. Clamp was set on testing machine at a distance of 20 cms and strength indicating pointer to zero position. Sample was clamped between two jaws, with some length of fabric extending beyond the jaws at each end. Sample was elongated at a constant rate of 300 mm/min till rupture. Breaking load in Kgf was noted. Same procedure was repeated for all samples. 2.3.3 Measurement of Bending Length Prior to the test, specimens were conditioned to the standard atmospheric conditions. Samples were cut using the given template. Threads were ravelled from both side of the sample to exactly 1 inch x 6 inches. The sample was placed on the bending length track and made to slide in forward direction till incline angle become 41.5 0 . The bending length was noted. 3. Results and Discussion 3.1. Antimicrobial activity Table 3.1. Antimicrobial activity

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Fig. 3.1. Antimicrobial activity As shown in Fig. 3.1, chitosan gives good anti-microbial activity when concentration increases from 3 to 10 gpl. With increase in concentration of chitosan antimicrobial activity increases. After 10 gpl there is no remarkable improvement in the antimicrobial activity. The maximum antimicrobial activity is archived at 15 gpl concentration, which is 87.20 % for E. coli and 94.50% for s. aureus. The effect may increase with increase in concentration of chitosan, but increase in concentration decrease the penetration of chitosan. With increase in concentration of solution and temperature of curing antimicrobial activity increases. This is due to increase in the quantity of chitosan.

3.2. Tensile strength Table 3.2. Tensile strength of given Treated fabric (in kg/f)

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As shown Fig 3.2, with increasing concentration of Chitosan, tensile strength decreases. But decrease in tensile strength is not remarkable. 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 % tensile strength decreases in both warp and weft direction. This is due to breaking of hydrogen bonds and decrease in air permeability of fabric. 3.3. Bending Length of treated fabric Table 3.3. Blending length after application of Chitosan 3.3. Bending Length of treated fabric Fig 3.3 Blending length after application of chitosan

Table 3.3. Blending length after application of Chitosan

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As seen in Fig 3.3, with increasing concentration of Chitosan, bending length also increases. 2 – 3 % increase in bending length was observed in all concentration of chitosan. The increase in bending length is due to increase in stiffness of fabric. Conclusion In this study different concentration of antimicrobial agents were applied by pad-dry-cure technique and antimicrobial activity was evaluated against two bacteria i.e. S. aureus (Gram positive bacteria) and E. coli (Gram negative bacteria). The anti-microbial activity increases with increase in concentration of Chitosan. After 10 gpl there is no remarkable improvement in the antimicrobial activity. The maximum antimicrobial activity is archived at 15 gpl concentration which is 87.20 % for E. coli and 94.50% for s. aureus. There is no remarkable change observed in physical properties of cotton fabric treated with Chitosan.

Reference 1. Zitao Zhang, Liang Chen, Jinmin Ji, Yanliu Huang and Donghui Chen “Antibacterial Properties of Cotton Fabrics Treated with Chitosan” Textile Research Journal 2003 73: 1103 2. Md Ibrahim H Mondal, Firoz Ahmed, Md Roknuzzaman, Md Nazmul Huda, Md Ahsan Habib “Antimicrobial activity of chitosan and its derivatives exhausted cotton fabrics as ecofriendly antimicrobial agents” Journal of Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(3):77‒80 3. Guneet Dhiman and J. N. Chakraborty “Antimicrobial performance of cotton finished with triclosan, silver and chitosan” Dhiman and Chakraborty Fashion and Textiles (2015) 2:13 4. SEUNGSIN LEE, JEONG-SOOK CHO, AND GILSOO CHO “Antimicrobial and Blood Repellent Finishes for Cotton and Nonwoven Fabrics Based on Chitosan and Fluoropolymers” Textile Research Journal 1999 69: 104 5. Mr. M. Parthiban, Dr. S. Gunasekaran &amp; Silambarasan, Sakthi Srinivasan, Seetharaman, Karthika “Effect of nanosiver application on antimicrobial finishing” 6. G.Thlagavathi, T.Kannaian, “Dual Antimicro-

bial and blood repellent finishes for cotton hospital fabrics”, IJFTR, volar, 33,2008,23-29 7. DANIELA ENESCU “Use of Chitosan in Surface Modification of Textile Materials” Vol. 13,No. 6, 2008, pp. 4037-4048 8. Allan, C. and Hadwiger, L.A. 1979 “The fungicidal effect of chitosan on fungi of varying cell wall composition”. Exp. Mycol., 3: 285–287. [Crossref] , [Google Scholar] 9.Boguslaw ki, S., Bunzeit, M. and Knorr, D. 1990. “Effects of chitosan treatment on clarity and microbial counts of apple juice”. ZFL, Int. J. Food Technol. Food Proc. Eng., 41: EFS55 [Google Scholar] 10. Castellanos‐Perez, N., Maldanado‐ Vega, M., Fernandez Villagomez G and Cafferal‐ Mendez, S. 1988. “An evaluation of the coagulating ability of chitosans from different crustacea species and fungi”. In Chitin and Chitosan, Edited by: Skjak‐Braek, G., Anthonsen, T. and Sandford, P. 567–576. London: Elsevier Applied Science 11. El-tahlawy, K.F., El-bendary, M.A., Elhendawy, A.G. &amp; Hudson, S.M. (2005) “The antimicrobial activity of cotton fabrics treated with different crosslinking agents and chitosan” Carbohydrate Polymers, 60(4), 421–430.

Bio-nanomaterials for development of Health care Textiles Dr. S.S Kole, Dr. V.D Gotmare

Textile Manufactures Department, VJTI Matunga-Mumbai

bstract: In the last few years, the nanomaterials have played an important role in the medical and healthcare textile. Currently, woven and nonwoven antibacterial fabrics are the most used applications in medical textiles segment, being used to prevent infection or deodorize medical clothing. Today, the consumers’ attitude towards hygiene and active lifestyle has created a rapidly increasing market for a wide range of medical textiles, which has stimulated intensive research and development. As a result, the number of functional textiles with an antibacterial and antifungal activity

incorporating both synthetic and biopolymers has increased considerably over the last few years, using conventional and nano-finishing route. In a near future, textile materials treated with biomaterial will perhaps be the largest application in the area of medical and healthcare textiles. The present paper is a comprehensive review on developments in the nanostructured biomaterials for healthcare applications. Introduction: An important and growing part of the textile industry is the healthcare and hygiene sector. Textile has always played a vital role in the de-

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velopment of healthcare products. The range of products available is vast but typically, they are used in the operation theatre or in the hospital ward for the hygiene, care and safety of staff and patients. The applications range from the simple cleaning wipes to the advanced barrier fabrics used in operating rooms. The demand for medical and healthcare textiles is on the upward trend as, a safe, healthy and comfortable living environment. This is important for the protection from the infection of pathogenic microorganisms has to be ensured. Many attempts are being made for the development of healthcare textiles with the use of verities of syn-

BIO-NANO C OM VA ETRE S RT IA OLRSY thetic and natural chemicals. So far, a number of chemicals have been employed to impart antibacterial activity to textiles. These chemicals include inorganic salts, organometallics, iodophors (substances that slowly release iodine), phenols and thiophenols, onium salts, antibiotics, heterocyclics with anionic groups, nitro compounds, urea and related compounds, formaldehyde derivatives and amines [1]. However, many of these chemicals are toxic to humans and cannot easily degrade in the nature and causes skin irritation problems [2]. High volume of research has been reported on application of synthetic and natural antimicrobial agents on textile substrates, especially on cotton using conventional and nanotechnology methods, as cellulosic materials offers ideal environment for microbial growth. It is necessary for human beings to wear antimicrobial finished textile products for healthy life style [3]. Today, the application of nanotechnology in the textile has taken an upward trend, for the development of textile products for various applications and has real commercial potential for the textile industry. This is mainly due to the fact, that conventional methods used to impart different properties to fabrics often do not lead to permanent effects, they will lose their functions after laundering or wearing. Nanotechnology can provide high durability for fabrics. Nano-particles have a large surface area-tovolume ratio, thus presenting better affinity for fabrics and leading to an increase in durability of the function. In addition, a coating of nano-particles on fabrics will not affect their breathability or hand feel. Application of nanoscience and nanotechnology-related textiles can play an important role in the medical sector. Currently, woven and non-woven anti-bacterial fabrics are the most used applications of nanotechnology in the medical and healthcare textiles segment with incorporation of both synthetic and natural polymers, being used to prevent infection or deodorize

medical clothing, wound dressing and bedding. The nanotechnology-based products are used in the medical sector to cover a range of antibacterial textiles with a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity. Textile materials treated with nanomaterials in the form of nanoparticles, gels and nanoemulsion are functional to prevent mite sensitization in atopic dermatitis; antimicrobial wound dressings, patient dresses, bed linens or reusable surgical gloves and masks [4] .Nanoemulsion and Nanogels for Healthcare Applications: Nanoemulsion are the class of disperse systems consisting of two immiscible liquids. The liquid droplets (the disperse phase) are dispersed in a liquid medium (the continuous phase). Several classes may be distinguished: oil-in-water (O/W), water in-oil (W/O) and oil in-oil (O/O). To disperse two immiscible liquids, one needs a third component, namely, the emulsifier. The choice of the emulsifier is crucial in the formation of the emulsion and its long-term stability. Nanoemulsion is submicron emulsion with mean droplet diameter ranging from 100 to 500 nm. They are thermodynamically stable and translucent dispersions of oil and water with a droplet size in the range 100-600 nm. Nanoemulsion is prepared by low-energy spontaneous titration methods such as Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) emulsification, by phase inversion composition or by high shear forces using highpressure homogenizers or ultrasonic generators [5]. The various natural material like curcumin and neem are used for imparting the antibacterial properties in the textile material with various forms. The activity of these materials on textile substrate is limited because of their poor aqueous stability. The solubility can be enhanced by preparing the stable nanoemulsion [6]. The activity of nanoemulsion on textile material is depends on the type of oil used, method of preparation of nanoemulsion, active content in the emulsion etc.

The oil in water nanoemulsions are commonly used in the textile since textile materials shows more affinity to the water rather than oil [7]. Similarly, like nanoemulsion the nanogel containing the active agent is used in the designing of textile drug delivery systems. The nanogels are prepared using dispersion agent and the properties of nanogel like spreadability and viscosity depends on the type of gelling agent used. The nanogel containing the therapeutic value is applied on the spunlace nonwoven samples using hand lying technique, this type of material used in the healthcare applications [8]. Application of Curcumin for Wound Dressing Curcumin or diferuloylmethane with chemical formula of (1,7-bis(4hydroxy-3methoxyphenyl)-1,6heptadiene-3,5-dione) and other curcuminoids constitute the main phytochemicals of Curcuma longa L. (Zingiberaceae family) rhizome with the common name of turmeric [9]. The structure of curcumin is shown in the Fig 1. The presence of polyphenolic compound and variety of biological activities in the structure has been gained significant attention of researches all over the world for various applications [10]. Curcumin finds application in the feild of textile of medicinal applications especially wound dressings. But, application of curcumin is limited in textiles because of its poor aqueous solubility. The extraction and formulation of nanocarriers loaded with active curcumin is being used to design cotton based wound dressings. The dressing materials treated with stable nanoemulsion containing active drug of curcumin shows exceptional performance with respect to antimicrobial activity, skin irritation study and biocompatibility [11].

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B C IOOV- E NR AN SO T OMRAYT E R I A L S applications: a review. Journal of Advanced Research, 6 (2), 105–121. 8. Ferreira M.C, Tuma P. (2006). Complex wounds. Clinics, 61,571– 578. 9. Kurkov. (2010). Parental delivery of CDs effects on drug binding, APPS Pharmaceutical Science Technology, 11, 1152-1158. 10. Lee J.E, Park J.C. (2001). Characterization of UV-irradiated dense/ porous collagen membranes: Morphology, enzymatic degradation and mechanical properties, Yonsei Medical Journal, 42, 172–179.

Fig 1. Structure of Curcumin

Conclusion Developments in Antimicrobial FinThe recent developments in the ishing of Textiles--A Review, AATCC nanostructured bioactive material Review, 4-22. 11. Gotmare, Vijay D., Sushant S. such as nanoemulsion and nano- 3. Jeong, S.H. (2005). Synthesis and Kole, and Rajani B. Athawale (2018). gels in the field of healthcare textiles characterization of silver/chitosan Sustainable approach for develophas opened a new sustainable mar- bio nanocomposite by chemical re- ment of antimicrobial textile mateket due to their unique properties duction method and their antibac- rial using nanoemulsion for wound such as biocompatibility, biodegra- terial activity, Polymer Fibers, 40, care applications. Fashion and Texdability, nontoxicity and antimicro- 543. tiles 5.1, 1-13. B R A N D U P D A T E 57 bial activity, which have attracted 4. Y. W. H. Wong . (2016). Selected 12. C. A. C. Ara´ujo, L. L. Leon.( much scientific and industrial inter35 Years of Continuous Improvements 2001). Biological activities of Curcuapplications nanotechnology est. Understanding the antimicrobiOver the past 35 years, U.S. cotton has made of significant improvements in growing cotton responsibly. To continue the progress, the Trust Protocol has ambitious national goals for 2025.ma By this date, theL,Trust longa Memorias do Instituto in Textiles, AUTEX Journal of Real and antifungal activity of various Protocol aims to have more than half of all U.S. cotton production included in the program. Oswaldo Cruz, 96,723–728 208. search, 6, 58-95. biomaterials and its assessment is “Achieving a transition towards agricultural sustainability requires broad public and private important to meet the specific repartnerships and a vital part of my work at The Nature Conservancy includes looking at ways to collaborate 13. T. Rudrappa, H. P. Bais . (2008), Ali M.S,said Alam Alam N.Director (2014). with key agricultural5. stakeholders,” Dr. KrisM.S, Johnson, Deputy of Agriculture, The Nature quirements of the end consumers. Conservancy, North Preparation, American Region and U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Board Member. “Informed by Curcumin, a known phenolic from characterization and science-based targets, the Trust Protocol provides evidence of and encourages continuous improvements in materials and methods described Curcuma longa, attenuates the viruU.S. cotton production.” stability study of dutasteride loadin details through this paper help ed nano emulsion for treatment lence of Pseudo monasaeruginosa information, please visit https://TrustUsCotton.org, and visit us on social media. toestablish material&#39;sFor more potenPAO 1 in whole plant and animal ofTrust benign the U.S. Cotton Protocol prostatic hypertrophy. tials and within the field ofAbout medical models, Journal of Iransupply Journal of Pharmaceutical Re- pathogenicity In a period of ever greater chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency, the U.S. Cotton Trust textile usage. Protocol will set a standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and Agricultural and Food Chemistry, search, 13, 1125‒1140. measurement to the issue of responsibly-grown cotton production and drives continuous improvement in 56, 1955–1962. key sustainability metrics. References 6. Krasner D, Kennedy K.L. (1993). The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s progress through sophisticated data collection and 209. Theverification. ABCs Choosing of wound carecotton dressings. 1. Gao, Y, Cranston, R. (2008). Recent independent third-party Trust Protocol will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fiber element of their66, supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower Wound Management, 68–69. Advances in Antimicrobial Treat14. Kurkov. (2010). Parental delivenvironmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton with sustainability proven via Field to Market, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control Union ments of Textiles. Textile credentials Research ery of CDs effects on drug bind7. AHMED, Enas M. (2015). Hydrogel: Certifications. Journal, 78, 60-65. ing, APPS Pharmaceutical Science characterization, and The U.S. Cotton Trustpreparation, Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well11, as 1152-1158. Technology, 2. Purwar.R., Joshi.M. (2004). Recent the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.

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Role of GST in facilitating changes in the Textile Industry of India PREETY GUPTA

bstract

Textile industry plays a major role in the development of the Indian economy with respect to GDP, Export promotion, employment, etc. Textile industry is viewed as the second largest employment generating sector after agriculture Industry, for both unskilled as well as skilled people. In terms of India’s total annual exports, the textile industry contributes 10% which is indeed a significant contribution to exhibit importance of this industry for the economic growth and development of the Country. Earlier, there were many direct and indirect tax systems in the textile sector; along with corruption therefore, to overcome these the Central Government made one tax system i.e. Goods and Services Tax (GST). It is a comprehensive indirect, multistage, destination- based tax that has been imposed on every value addition. This paper is an analysis of GST and the impact of GST in textile sector of India. Introduction GST is referred as Goods and Services Tax which is major taxation scheme developed for achieving economic growth and removing the cascading effects of the earlier tax structure. It was introduced and passed as the 101st amendment in the Indian Constitution in 2016 and was implemented from 1st July 2017. GST is considered as the biggest tax reforms in the Indian economy since independence. With the introduction of GST reforms in India, the perspective of indirect tax system has been com-

Intern at Textile Value Chain pletely changed as it has brought majority of the taxes on goods and services charges on traders, manufactures and sale and consumption of goods and services into a single tax umbrella. Before the introduction of the GST, taxes were imposed individually on goods and services which were consolidated under the GST regime on a uniform rate of tax making it fixed for both goods and services. The GST, tax system has been streamlined to achieve the objective of “one nation one tax” and to reduce the burden of tax payers, especially traders, manufactures and distributors from paying higher management costs. Using a tax credit mechanism, GST is collected at every stage of sale or purchase which is paid finally at the point of consumption. The main purpose of GST is to provide transparency and ease to users and support to the growth of the Indian economy.

economy. The Model of GST

There are two divisions in textile industry: the organized mill sector and the unorganized decentralized sector. Mills are generally represented as organised sector of the textile industry with either a spinning mill or a composite mill. In composite mill, spinning, weaving and processing facilities are carried out under the same roof. The decentralized sector is engaged majorly on the weaving activity, which makes it heavily dependent on the organized sector for their sourcing of yarn. The unorganized sector comprises of Powerloom segment, Handloom segment, Hosiery segment, Khadi and Carpet manufacturing segment; all together they contribute a good percentage in the Indian

Impact of GST

A dual GST system was implemented in India; as proposed by the Empowered Committee under which, the GST is divided into two parts: Central Goods and Services Tax (CGST) and State Goods and Services Tax (SGST). The Goods and Services Tax (GST) is said to replace all indirect taxes imposed on goods and services by the Government, both by Central and States. The GST combines of all State economies and is one of the biggest taxation reforms to take place in India. The GST made a significant headway covering way for an all-inclusive indirect tax reform in the country. It is an indirect tax that brings most of the taxes imposed on majority of goods and services, on manufacture, sale and consumption of goods and services, under a single domain at the National level.

The implementation of Goods and Services Tax in India has affected various industries and has also indirectly affected daily lives of public at large scale. It was observed that GST has not only changed the tax system; but it also has an impact on organizational functions such as commercials, finance, product pricing, contracts and information technology. India is able to hold 22 percent share in the textile industry out of which 43 percent share is in the apparel market. Textile industry is also able to enjoy various tax relief, favours and benefits under the indirect tax. Out of total exports, the textile industry contributes more NOVEMBER 2020

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than 10 percent of income from exports. According to data, the global exporters of readymade garments have been reduced by 40 percent after implementing GST which was worth Rs. 9110 crores in October 2010. According to October 2017 report, the export of garments is reduced by Rs. 5398 crores due to cut in the duty drawbacks after implementation of GST in India. Whereas, textile and clothing exports in 2018-2019 were worth Rs. 3590 crores and from April 2019 to March 2020 it was worth Rs. 3380 crores. Textile and clothing exports have dropped by 6% during the 2019-2020 financial year, with a major fall in March. The GST has shown the both negative and positive impact over the range of National and Multinational brands in India. For many Companies, the GST rate has raised its rate by 5 percent due to which costing has been hoist. In Companies for example like Vardaman which is the leading brand of Indian Textile industry before GST, 6 piece of container were given at the rate of 330, however the rates after GST has hiked up to 336 per container. Thus, this raise in the pricing has created a negative impact on Vardhman Textiles. The impact is not only at the company’s profitability but has also affected the consumer’s purchasing power. In contrast, at the time of launch of GST, ranges of retailers were highly satisfied as they were no longer bound with the range of taxes. Moreover, they were happy with the easy access in dealing with taxes. In case of Companies like Hosur, one of the leading textile manufacturing brand in Tamil Nadu, were highly satisfied with the launching of GST. As per the views of LKM Adhi, the Former President of Hosur industries was very pleased to have this new tax system. The taxation sys-

tem became easier for them and the desired results were achieved within the firm. After the manufacturing process, in the supply chain there has been overall decline in the effect of tax gush and thus, have a positive impact on the cost of finished products for the customers. The decision of the Indian government to impose 5% GST on the garments valued less than Rs 1000 was expected to help the retail segment as well as the retailers to enhance their capital. In addition, there was no relief and reductions provided to the textile manufacturer’s post-GST as there were in VAT and Excise. As per data there is an increase in GST collections, that has brought a great relief to both the Union and state governments. The goods and services tax (GST) collections, which represents the consumption of taxed goods and services, reached ₹1.05 trillion, an increase of 10% on a year-on-year basis, and the collection was the highest in the last eight months. The last time it had crossed ₹1 trillion was in February 2020. According to M Govinda Rao who is an economist and a member of the 14 th Finance Commission “It is a right time to reform GST. As the tax collections have turned the corner, rationalizing the structure will now accelerate the recovery process. It is desirable to reduce the number of tax slabs into three. Also, building materials and passenger automobiles should ideally be removed from the ‘sin’ list which attracts a 28% tax”. With the current widespread impact of the COVID-19, which has left no sectors unturned and is expected to decelerate the growth projection of the textile and apparel industry in India, which was once projected to grow at a CAGR of 12% to reach USD 220 billion (INR 16,637 billion)

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by 2025-26 (as per the data released by the Ministry of Textiles). Due the outbreak of the pandemic, it is expected that the domestic market has seen shrinking by around 28%30% to USD 61 billion (INR 4,163 billion) led by the decline in the sales for the current financial year ending 2020-2021. Conclusion In the development of Indian economy textile industry holds a major position as it generates employment to large population, promotes export and provides returns to the government in terms of tax. In this perspective, GST has been seen as a major refinement in Indian economy where indirect tax system has been changed dramatically. This tax reform has been considered by economists and scholars as it is a boosting factor for growth and development of Indian economy for a long term as it aims to unite all indirect taxes into one nation one tax. In overall, the GST in textile industry has resulted in competitiveness and sustainable growth opportunities in the domestic as well as foreign markets. References 1.

Impact of coronavirus outbreak on Indian textile sector: Ashok Panigrahi, Kumar 2. Ashutosh, Sejal Mehta, Shubham Pasricha, Dept. of Technology Management, 3. NMIMS Shirpur, Maharashtra; 2020. 4. A role of textile industry in Indian economy: Divya P Solanki Assistant Professor, 5. Mirambika College of Management, Rajkot, Gujarat, India; September 2017. 6. Export performance of Indian Textile Industry in the Post Multi Fibre Agreement 7. Regime: Greeshma Manoj; 2014. 8. Implications of Goods and Services Tax (GST) for Indian Textiles Sector: Ministry of 9. Textiles, Government of India 10. An Impact of good &amp; Service Tax on Indian textile industry: Tanushree Gupta 11. Department of management, APS Rewa University Rewa, India; 2016.

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Application of Sustainability in Fashion and Textile Industry Debjit Biswas, Gautam Bar National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar, India.

bstract Fashion and Textile Iindustry go through several processes, starting from conversion of fiber to yarn, yarn to fabric and fabric to garment. During these processes, there are ample opportunities in the fashion and textile producers to give attention to the sustainable practices. With the rising awareness about sustainability, the fashion and textile industries have taken initiatives to implement some sustainable

solutions in their production process. In order to meet the sustainability criteria, there are a range of approaches taken by stakeholders, from fiber production to garment manufacturing and supply chain management. Fashion goods made using sustainable practices contributes socially and economically towards a Green Earth. This analysis presents the findings gathered from the related Review and Research Papers on sustainable fashion and textile manufacturing. This paper

examines recent developments in sustainable fashion and textile production at different stages of the production of fiber, yarn, fabric and clothing. In addition, the responsibilities played by different regulatory bodies, suppliers, retailers and customers in the development of sustainable fashion and textiles are addressed. Introduction Issues related to sustainability are rising in several manufacturing sectors; including textiles due to inNOVEMBER 2020

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creased consumer awareness and strict global legislations [1-3]. Several fashion manufacturers are taking the advantage of increased environmental awareness in developing countries to achieve low production costs [4]. Various fashion and textile industries are struggling in production, with varying degree of environmental and social problems [5]. The production in the industry largely impacts the environment, due to excessive amount of energy and water consumption. It also results in greenhouse gas emission, waste generation and discharge of toxic effluent containing dyes, finishes and other chemicals to the ecosystem [6,7]. The social impacts of the development of fashion include the use of child labor, precarious working conditions, long working hours, low wages and threats to health and safety [8]. The fast fashion is appealing to many customers, who want fast fashion. To constantly alter their fashion style, thereby sacrificing Sustainable manufacturing. Businesses such as Zara, Uniqlo and H&M is based on fast fashion to meet the desires of customer’s demands. While many customers today, are aware of sustainability, the constant rise in demand from the youth. The product of newer quick fashion is a mass market that produces waste-cloth piles. Slow fashion, though (using sustainable development and greener technologies) meets social transparency and environmental expectations of sustainability. The trend to achieve fashion that is sustainable is the method is very sluggish, as there are complexities involving many producers and a great deal of idealism [9]. Textile and apparel processing have a serious impact on the environment. Natural and synthetic fibers are used along with a considerable amount of water and energy for the production. Secondly, the use of chemicals, auxiliaries, energy and water during fabric processing, have a negative impact. Thirdly, a considerable amount of water and energy is consumed for

the treatment and preservation of clothes during their use [10]. There are many steps that can be taken to achieve sustainable development of fashion and textiles, starting from choosing the raw materials to the EOL of a commodity. Sustainable development of fashion incorporates eco-friendly and non-depleting content; the range includes eco-friendly methods of production; green supply chain, retail and distribution; and ethical customers [11,12]. Chemical processing of cotton, can be done with the highest environmental efficiency by implementing newer technologies. The effect can be made greener by the use of enzymatic processing; applications for plasma; and usage of specialized and auxiliary chemicals. In addition, the fashion industry needs to meet environmental protection, to attain the other foundations, social and economic sustainability, in the development of sustainable fashion. Sustainability Requirement In the past, to meet rising demands and growing profits many fashion producers in the industry have used unsustainable practices. With an increased worldwide awareness about sustainable fashion, several new brands are incorporating sustainable activities [13,14]. Social responsibility in fashion and garment manufacturing, the economic aspects of many nations, is a global issue. The fashion items produced by sustainable practices were thought to be in addition to ecological and social stresses, it may alleviate offering sustainable-conscious consumers, an ethical alternative sustainable product transaction [15]. Fashion Consumption and Consumer Attitude Consumers from all over the world discard fashion items more often, even though the items can be used in future. when fast fashion is considered, the consumer awareness of sustainability techniques is low. Therefore, the concept of sustainable fashion is termed ‘unfashion-

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able’ which led to an increase in disposal of fashion products after a limited use [16]. This process is named as “throwaway culture”, which has been a result of easy availability of low-priced clothing and the success of the major brand retailers. The garment is discarded. if they are out of fashion or lose their dimensional stability as well as durability [17]. These garments comply with landfill or leads to waste generation; if not reused, depending on the degree of wear, physical condition, form of garment and composition of fibre. The economic viability of recycling and reuse is based on the recycling facilities and technologies available. The market ethics to counter the "throwaway culture" has played an important role in the recent years [18]. Responsible consumers consider the impact of consumption of a product on the environment and its adverse effect on humans and animals [19]. The consumers are focusing on sustainable ideology and practices, but some recent study reveals that many consumers are yet to adopt these sustainable practices in their day to day life for certain products [20]. 1.Yarn and Fabric Manufacturing Yarn and fabric include a large amount of energy and they generate waste, dust and noise [20]. The energy consumption in a textile industry can be calculated and split accordingly as 34% in spinning, 23% in weaving, 38% in chemical processing. Research reveals that the energy consumed during the maintenance of a cloth is almost four times as compared to the energy consumed for the production [21]. The worldwide focus on sustainability has led to the creation of machines for the processing of yarn and fabric that use less energy, operate more effectively and produce less dust and noise. As a result, spinning (such as open-end rotor and air jet spinning), weaving (rapier, bullet, air jet, multi-phase and waterjet looms) and knitting (high-speed circular knitting, computerised flatbed machine, seamless knitting) have produced several

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the consumption of 200- 400L of water. In many developing countries, water pollution produced by the textile industries is a reason of major concern [25]. In addition to the pollution, there is an increase in demand for water usage in textile and clothing production. Also, the direct discharge of the chemical infested water into the water systems is resulting in scarcity of clean water. Some of the Chemicals used are listed in Table I. According to Khatri et al., a research, development in the dyeing of cotton fabrics using reactive dyes reduced water pollution. Use of alternative dyeing techniques substantially reducing the effluent. As effluent treatment requires extra investment and maintenance, textile industry should focus on incorporating recent technologies. Approaches such as the use of innovative processes with new dyestuffs and modern equipment for dyeing will help minimise environmental issues. Some of the processes include low liquor-tomaterial ratio dyeing, low volumes of padding troughs, pad dyeing technology, urea and salt-free dyeing, micelle dyeing, dye fixation polymerization techniques and use of biodegradable organic compounds as dye liquor. The integrated desizTable 1. Some commonly used toxic chemicals in chemical processing

new techniques. In the Yarn manufacturing process, the ring spinning, rotor spinning and air jet spinning requires a lot of energy [22]. The ring spinning uses maximum amount of energy, therefore it releases maximum amount of energy onto the environment. Increasing the spindle speed, lightweight bobbins, advanced ring and efficient driving system is helpful to reduce the impact on the environment. Rotor spinning has a comparatively lower impact on the environment compared to ring spinning. The of air jet spinning technology can rapidly produce yarns. However, the energy consumption is higher. The other advantages of air jet spinning is the lower space needed for the setup. Thus, less climatic control is needed hence, air jet spinning has the lowest impact on the environment. Similarly, fabric production also requires a lot of energy. The total electrical energy consumption estimated as per linear metre of fabric is 0.45- 0.55kWh and the thermal energy is approx. per linear metre of fabric is 18.8- 23 MJ [22]. Thus, it is evident that energy is one of the core factors influencing the cost. Therefore, energy efficient technologies can be incorporated to help

efficiency, as compared to the conventional weaving technologies. It also generates less waste. In the process of fabric production, if weaving and knitting is compared, the former has the higher impact on the environment than the latter. The additional processes such as sizing, desizing, and warp preparation for weaving, is not required in knitting. The sizing and subsequent desizing requires a large amount of water along with the energy. The material used in traditional sizing is highly polluting, which is being replaced with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) [23]. The use of seamless manufacturing of garments contributes in lowering the impact on the environment [24]. In seamless technology the 3D outfit is produced by avoiding the steps of fabric manufacturing i.e. weaving or knitting, cutting and sewing. Hence, the process consumes approx. 30-40% less time and saves a huge amount of energy as compared to the traditional process. Also, seamless technology reduces labor cost and eliminates the waste involved in cutting of pattern pieces. 2.Fabric Chemical Processing Fabric chemical processing also known as wet processing is the most environmentally harmful process

in sustainable production. Recent weaving technologies such as air jet, waterjet, projectile, rapier and multi-phase looms consume less amount of energy and give good

among all the textile processes. It uses a huge consumption of water, energy and toxic chemicals. According to Marcucci et al. the production of 1kg of processed fabric includes

ing, bleaching and reactive dyeing method can lead to lower costs due to decreased use of chemicals and resources. NOVEMBER 2020

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3.Garment Manufacturing Garment manufacturing process requires a huge amount of energy and there is a wide scope of sustainable practices in areas of garment manufacturing to reduce the energy usage [26]. This emphasize on the energy efficient tools, machinery for cutting, sewing, pressing and packaging, and the use of ecofriendly processes is required to improve the production of sustainable fashion [9]. The waste generated during the production process such as paper, plastic, fabric remaining, cardboards and wire coat hangers should be recycled and should not be discarded. Also, other strategies should be incorporated to save energy and water. For example, installing water efficient fixtures, training sessions for the staffs/ labor on energy efficiency skillsets, energy efficient heating/cooling devices, lighting systems, and rain-water harvesting setup for non-drinking purposes and other uses, can also help in achieving sustainable fashion. Choosing suitable raw materials with a lower ecological footprint i.e. renewable, biodegradable and non-degradable, and processes that are energy efficient will help reduce the impact on the environment. Use of green energy, saving energy wherever possible, reducing air emissions, recycling hard waste and paying attention to social responsibility will lead to the achievement of fashion sustainability. The sustainable production process followed in an apparel/ garment industry is illustrated in Fig. 1. [25]. By embracing the philosophy of Lean Manufacturing, which focuses on reducing process waste, increasing efficiency, empowering workers with greater contact, and turning the enterprise into a learning organization, the operating costs in garment manufacturing can be reduced [22]. By avoiding over output, excessive motion, inappropriate inventory management, and over processing, process waste can be minimized. The core concept of lean manufacturing is continuous

improvement (generally known as the Japanese term ‘Kaizen’). ‘Kaizen’ encourages constant and required improvements to achieve the desired objective. Recyclability As discussed above, fast fashion items are disposed more rapidly, and this has become a keen area for

young consumers pay no attention to reuse or recycle when disposing of a product. After a certain timeframe, fashion products become unusable, resulting in an EOL product. In the past, EOL items were disposed of to get

Figure Sustainability factors associated with full life of a fashion product the researchers [23,25]. Consum- rid of them, or used for seconders should conscious about of the hand garments, wiping fabrics, or principle of reuse or recycle, while reclamation of fibre. As sustaindiscarding fast fashion items. Con- ability is becoming increasingly relsumers should be encouraged by evant, sustainable solutions, such manufacturers and retailers to buy as recycling or reuse, are required environmentally friendly goods and to minimise adverse environmental recycle waste. Three key factors in- impacts and minimise the use of reclude: intrinsic factors (related to sources. This will also aid in reducthe style of the product, age, con- ing the rate of emissions and energy dition, value, cost and durability); consumption. psychological factors (related to Eco-Labelling decision-making), including mood, personality and social awareness; An eco-label is described by the and situational factors (extrinsi- Global Eco-labelling Network as cally related to the product, such “a label that identifies a product’s as changes in fashion, finances and overall environmental preference storage space) that explain the “dis- within a product category based posal” actions. A research analyzed on consideration of the life cycle” the reactions of consumers to dis- [16]. Eco-labels provide customers carding a product and found that with knowledge about eco-friendly

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A P P L I C AT I O N O F S U S CT OAVIENRA B S ITLOI R TY goods that can help reduce the environmental effect on their everyday activities. Consumers are able to compare different goods made using eco-friendly technologies, so that they are aware of the harmful effects of use and disposal. In the production of sustainable fashion goods internationally, eco-labelling plays an important role and distinguishes retail markets for ‘go green’ consumers [27]. Conclusion Due to the global demand for sustainable goods, and increased consumer awareness of sustainability, sustainable fashion production is gaining significant importance. Some apparel manufacturers in developing countries are taking advantage of lenient legislation and low environmental awareness in order to reduce production costs. However, in their manufacturing, supply chain, and retail management, many prominent fashion brands such as H&M, Adidas and Uniqlo incorporate sustainable practises. The sustainability focus of these brands helps to achieve improved labour standards that produce socially acceptable goods and services and a safer climate. Several international organisations and private corporations are working to track the efficiency of apparel producers and retailers, assist and assess them. These organisations work on aspects of sustainability, such as licencing, permitting and compliance requirements for waste, energy and water management. In addition, several standards to include recommendations promoting the three pillars of sustainability have already been established. Consumers play a significant role in sustainable fashion, in addition to fashion designers, retailers and international organisations. Consumers can choose or reject a product if it is not produced under socially acceptable conditions, with adequate labour and resource consumption. Although some customers are prepared to pay higher prices for sustainable fashion products, due to budget constraints, preference and attitude, many of them may not be

ready. Sustainable fashion would not become a possibility in the future if there is no market for sustainable goods and services in fashion. Successful consumer adoptability of sustainable fashion depends on consumer awareness on reducing waste and various impact on the environment. The current sustainable practises by industries, manufacturers and retailers in the fashion and textile industry will demonstrate how well society is ethically doing, the environment is protected, and the workforce can benefit, together with the uptake of sustainable approaches for fashion product’s aftercare and disposal. References

fluent by UV and near-UV light assisted Fenton’s reagent. Chemosphere 39(15): 2767-2783.

[1] Dirty Laundry-Unravelling the corporate connections to toxic water pollution in China, Greenpeace International.

[14] Barik S, Khandual A, Behera L, Badamali SK, Luximon A (2016) NanoM-Al-layered double hydroxide application to cotton for enhancing mechanical, UV protection and flame retardancy at low cytotoxicity level. Cellulose: Pp. 1-14.

[2] Aakko M, Koskennurmi Sivonen R (2013) Designing sustainable fashion: Possibilities and challenges. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 17(1): 13-22. [3] Achabou MA, Dekhili S (2013) Luxury and sustainable development: Is there a match? Journal of Business Research 66(10): 1896-1903. [4] Aguilera RV, Rupp DE, Williams CA, Ganapathi J (2007) Putting the S back in corporate social responsibility: A multilevel theory of social change in organizations. Academy of management review 32(3): 836-863. [5] Akbari A, Remigy J, Aptel P (2002) Treatment of textile dye effluent using a polyamide-based nanofiltration membrane. Chemical Engineering and Processing: Process Intensification 41(7): 601-609. [6] Ali S, Khatri Z, Khatri A, Tanwari A (2014) Integrated desizingbleaching-reactive dyeing process for cotton towel using glucose oxidase enzyme. Journal of Cleaner Production 66: 562567. [7] Aouni A, Fersi C, Cuartas Uribe B, Bes Pía A, Alcaina Miranda MI, et al. (2012) Reactive dyes rejection and textile effluent treatment study using ultrafiltration and nanofiltration processes. Desalination 297, 87-96. [8] Araujo R, Casal M, Cavaco Paulo A (2008) Application of enzymes for textile fibres processing. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation 26(5): 332-349. [9] Arslan I, Balcioǧlu IA, Tuhkanen T (1999) Oxidative treatment of simulated dyehouse ef-

[10] Badani Z, Ait Amar H, Si Salah A, Brik M, Fuchs W (2005) Treatment of textile waste water by membrane bioreactor and reuse. Desalination 185(1): 411-417. [11] Baig S, Liechti P (2001) Ozone treatment for bio refractory COD removal. Water Science and Technology 43(2): 197-204. [12] Bal N, Houshyar S, Gao Y, Kyratzis IL, Padhye R, et al. (2014) Digital Printing of Enzymes on Textile Substrates as Functional Materials. Journal of Fiber Bioengineering and Informatics 7(4): 595-602. [13] Banat F, Al Bastaki N (2004) Treating dye wastewater by an integrated process of adsorption using activated carbon and ultrafiltration. Desalination 170(1): 69-75.

[15] Barnes L, Lea Greenwood G, Joergens C (2006) Ethical fashion: myth or future trend? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal 10(3): 360-371. [16] Barnett C, Cloke P, Clarke N, Malpass A (2005) Consuming ethics: articulating the subjects and spaces of ethical consumption. Antipode 37(1): 23-45. How to cite this article: Rajkishore N, Amanpreet S, Tarun P, Rajiv P. A Review of Recent Trends in Sustainable Fashion and Textile Production. Curr Trends Fashion Technol Textile Eng. 2019; 4(5): 555648. DOI: 10.19080/ CTFTTE.2019.04.555648 00116 Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering [17] Battaglia M, Testa F, Bianchi L, Iraldo F, Frey M (2014) Corporate social responsibility and competitiveness within SMEs of the fashion industry: Evidence from Italy and France. Sustainability 6(2): 872- 893. [18] Bruce M, Daly L, Towers N (2004) Lean or agile: a solution for supply chain management in the textiles and clothing industry? International Journal of Operations & Production Management 24(2): 151-170. [19] Burke J (2015) Bangladesh garment workers suffer poor conditions two years after reform vows, New Delhi, India. [20] Burke M, Conn WD, Lutz RJ (1978) Using psychographic variables to investigate product disposition behaviors: pp. 321-326. [21] Eckerberg K, Nilsson M (2013) Environmen-

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tal policy integration in practice: Shaping institutions for learning, Routledge. [22] Eder Hansen J (2015) Op-Ed | The Fashion Industry Must Network to Create Change, BOF. [23] Fersi C, Dhahbi M (2008) Treatment of textile plant effluent by ultrafiltration and/or nanofiltration for water reuse. Desalination 222(1): 263-271. [24] Fersi C, Gzara L, Dhahbi M (2005) Treatment of textile effluents by membrane technologies.

Desalination 185(1): 399-409. [25] Finnveden G, Nilsson M (2005) Site-dependent Life-Cycle Impact Assessment in Sweden (5 pp). The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment 10(4): 235-239. 50. Fletcher K (2009) Systems change for sustainability in textiles. Sustainable textiles: Life cycle and environmental impact, 369.

cal Balance: The Greater Goal of the E n v i r o n m e n ta l M a n a g e r. ( G ra d u a t e T h e s i s ) . R o c h e st e r I n st i t u t e o f Te c h n o l o g y , R o c h e st e r, N Y, U S A . [ 2 7 } C a l l i c o tt , J. B a i r d , a n d K a r e n M u m f o r d . “ E c o l o g i c a l S u s ta i n a b i l i t y a s a C o n s e r va t i o n C o n c e p t .” C o n s e rva t i o n B i o l o g y 1 1 . 1 ( 1 9 9 7 ) : 3 2 – 4 0

[26]B u t l e , B r i a n P. ( 2 0 0 9 ) . E c o l o g i -

Selecting the Right Fit for the Role Rajiv Misra R Square Consulting

ll of us who have recruited, selected and hired employees have gone through the experience, when someone we thought was the perfect fit for the role, starts struggling with the deliverables of the role

within 3-4 months of being hired. Then it is a long cycle of feedback, coaching, frustration, negotiations and finally an emotionally draining and at times unpleasant exit of the role holder. Wrong hires can cost your organization at least one year’s compensation of the employee

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as well as an opportunity loss for your business. One of the challenges that owners / MDs / business leaders face is, how to assess the best fit for a role in their organization. For most of us, making the selection from a number of profiles which are presented to us is a simple process. Do an initial screening of CVs , find someone with the right qualifications and experience and then select the best candidate – right? Wrong… do read on. My experience working with Founders / Owners / MDs specially in the SME space is that the selection is more based on perception and less based on objective criteria of selection. Most of us tend to assess candidates and get a sense that a certain candidate will be a good fit for the role. We believe that once the right candidate comes in front of us, we will know. The “Halo effect” of some candidates who put up a good show can be misleading. In most cases we tend to fit the role to the candidate who impressed us, rather than the candidate to the

H R U P DAT E role. Here are a few tips to help you make better selections : Firstly, you need to be clear about what are the required qualifications, experience and behavioural competencies required to succeed in the role. The first two are normally easy to list out, however, the behavioural competencies are tricky ones, especially in case of mid and senior roles. So what are behavioural competences? In simple words, these are the desired behaviours exhibited in a work situation which leads to improved outcomes/results. Examples of behavioural competencies could be communication skills, interpersonal effectiveness, customer focus / centricity, team work, collaboration etc. Once you have identified the qualifications and experience required to fulfil the role requirement, take some time to understand what are the key behaviours which the role incumbent must exhibit on a daily basis, to be successful in the role. If you are looking for a sales role, effective communication to include active listening, interpersonal effectiveness, customer focus and negotiation skills are key requisites to be successful in the role. Another way is to thinking of your best performer who has consistently done

well? What makes him successful in your organization? These different behaviour form the base of your competencies. The next step is, to understand the level of competence you need in each of the behavioural competencies to be successful. It is obvious that the communication skills required to be successful as a sales executive, are going to be very different in level to those required by a VP of Sales. Once the level of competency required is defined comes the critical piece- how do we assess if the person being assessed has the required level of that specific competency. A classic interview conducted by an MD / Owner / Business head has a predictability of success of approximately. 10-12%. Shocked? Predictability of success is the notion that, when you feel at the end of the assessment, that you have the perfect candidate for the role; there is a 10-12% chance that he/ she will be as good in the role as you have assessed. A trained interviewer in the technique of competency based interview or a behavioural event interview can take this predictability of success to 18- 20%. So, if our most trusted method of selection has such low success ratio then what can a busi-

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ness owner do? Few tips: a. Based on your analysis of the role, please list out the qualification, experience and behavioural competencies required to succeed in the role. b. Make a list of behaviours and their level, which you are looking for in the ideal candidate for that role. c. Make a plan of how you will assess the required behaviours through questions or any other method. A smart way is to frame a situation and ask the candidate to deal with it. These situations could be created through role plays, mock client presentations, dealing with an issue at work etc. At least use three situations to assess the competencies and associated behaviours. This obviously will mean that you may spend 3-4 hours in assessing one candidate, however, this is time well spent as else you would be spending more time, effort and energy in managing a poor hire in the next 6-12 months. d. See if more than one person can be part of the assessment panel to average out positive or negative bias. These could help in selecting the right fit for the right role!

â&#x20AC;˘ textileappareljobs@gmail.com

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Need of Textile Research Institutes & Education Programs to Gear-up Textile Industry Dr. P. P. Raichurkar

Director – MANTRA, Surat

echnology upgradation is needed in decentralised sector whose contribution is 90% of the total contribution. India needs huge number of technical personnel to work as Entrepreneurs in modernising, to produce new value-added products. As on date highly qualified technicians are not available for the Industry to work on the production floor. Freshers are not ready to work on the production floor in the corporate Textile Industry. Attrition of the textile graduates is very high in Indian Textile Industry, they go for service and sales segment of the textile Business. Students easily migrate to other engineering specialisation in advanced countries, for higher studies. Acute shortage of the technical personnel to work on production floor both in Corporate and the decentralised sector. This is mainly due to poor encouragement to Research in the Textile field by the Industry in India. Technological gaps in Industry and Academia is major hurdle in poor Technical ability and skills to work in the present Industry by the graduates from present Institutes. Important factors to be considered in developing research are • Human capital development with textile research and educational programs • Industry Participation in Engi-

neering education • Mentoring new breed of Entrepreneurs to connect corporate Textiles with decentralized sector, to work in Tandem to develop the Textile Industry. • Formation of Industry clusters to support and identify R &amp; D Institute’s mandate. Need to rope in the Industry/Academia/Research There is a necessity to initiate research in following areas • Design and development of the Textile Machinery to produce quality products. • Need for the development of the shuttle-less weaving sector to provide quality Textiles, linked to readymade garments complete value chain. • Textile Industry segments (Fibre to Fashion) needs upgradation in decentralized sector to help traditional products and develop new products with value addition in traditional sector in India. Institutes can facilitate any number of R&D programmes involving different organisations specialising in diverse parts of the textile and apparel industry. Primarily, though, it will concentrate on three types of schemes.

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There will be platform research programmes open to interested parties including Universities, Institutions, and trade and industry associations. These should have the support of at least two industry sponsors willing to contribute no less than 10 per cent of the project costs. In addition, private companies can take part in collaborative research programmes, and companies or consortia can request and pay for consulting and research services to assist them in specific areas. New R&D Centres will provide ample scope for local and overseas experts from different academic backgrounds and with expertise in many different fields. &quot;Since there will be a great number of ongoing projects, we can continuously look for experienced professionals and project managers to be involved in developing the Textile Industry. Main focus for R&D The following areas are the main focus of research and development in Textile Industry sector • New materials, textiles and apparel products • Advanced textile and production technologies • Innovative design and evaluation technologies • Enhanced industrial systems

FA S H I O N U P D AT E and infrastructure. Example for development of the decentralized sector Cotton spinning capacity of the country could be better utilized, if we can convert cotton yarn into garment to cater to the needs of the global requirements. Development of the value chain & supply chain by adopting appropriate Technology and R&D to develop world class brands. For this, we as a country need to develop Technical human capital. Hence, our country needs to work for the development of the Human capital to work for the development of the follow-

ing. Hence, I suggest the developmentof Research Centres in the following areas. Surat needs to create and improve value chain by Research in Man Made Fibres; as well as other natural fibres. Need based Diversification in Business and New products for National and International markets. Market, Marketing and Market Development research needs to established to help support Industry in the decentralised sector. We have not made any inroads into the development of the manmade fibre industry in different applications mainly due to lack of R&D on par with other developed

countries like Japan, Taiwan, Korea, China etc. Let us create few more socio-economic projects jointly with the Textile Industry and Government support to make unique model. We can take up such Model cluster Developments in Gujarat under this program. “Industry & Academia driven world class Research Institute” for the development of the Textile Industry. Surat and Gujarat can take a lead in this.

Innovation in crisis – A view on Virtual Fashion shows Kaviya.S.S Intern at Textile Value Chain

OVID 19 has had a huge impact on people’s lifestyle all around the world. This has resulted in a change in peoples’ perspectives. Crisis always paves way for newer, out of the box thinking. Novel Corona created an opportunity to work on newer technology and make all possible, which was once, a fantasy. One such fantasy was Virtual Fashion Show. Virtual Fashion Show has been in

the fashion industry for quite some time, the real-time challenges in conducting a Fashion show during the pandemic situation, led to the world-wide acceptance. The usual Fashion Shows have now moved to the next level, in the digital format. 3D virtual avatars on the virtual ramp, stunningly rock the Fashion World with its 3D garments. The 3D virtual avatars are clones of the real-world models. These 3D models wore the digital collections of the Brand/Designer and walked on the ramp with digital collections just

like actual human model in Fashion shows. Bangalore based AI Fashion Vtech Company named Bigthinx collaborated with Fashinnovation, a business platform which connected Fashion designers with tech innovators within the Fashion Industry. Bigthinx is a deep-tech startup specializing in Artificial Intelligence for fashion, retail and fitness. They livestreamed one of the firsts 3D Virtual Fashion Shows. 3D design technique was used to create 3D NOVEMBER 2020

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real-world models. These 3D models wore the digital collections of the Brand/Designer and walked on the ramp with digital collections just like actual human model in Fashion shows. Bangalore based AI Fashion Vtech Company named Bigthinx collaborated with Fashinnovation, a business platform which connected Fashion designers with tech innovators within the Fashion Industry. Bigthinx is a deep-tech startup specializing in Artificial Intelligence for fashion, retail and fitness. They livestreamed one of the firsts 3D Virtual Fashion Shows. 3D design technique was used to create 3D garments. 3D garments are made in actual product design with its original body measurements.

Data on millions of body measurements were collected. The AI solution called LYFSIZE software generated virtual avatar on its own, when the consumer bodies were scanned using their smartphones. Just like virtual mirror, consumers can try different garments on their 3D Clones. Bigthinx used this ideology and worked at making virtual fashion shows come real. Life-like virtual avatars were created by reading all the 44 points from the scanned human body for walking in the virtual fashion show. These 3D clones were animated to walk, pose and behave exactly like real models in the show. They were more like video game characters. Details like colors, fabric properties, cuts and variations were extracted from normal photos of the garment and 3D garments were developed. Those details were extracted using system trained with AI. Then 3D garments were created by using those attributes. Virtual Fashion show was live streamed on Youtube by Bigthinx. Another Fashion label named Hanifa created a virtual Fashion show with invisible models. Live streamed in Instagram. 3D garments appeared against a black backdrop. Her Pink label Congo Collection was showcased. Pink Congo Collection by Hanifa

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S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y The global brands like SAUIPE Swimwear, Artist Jason Naylor Jason Naylor Studio, NIKI by Niki Srinivasa, Olistic The Label, DiFiore New York, AWAYTOMARS, Satya Beachwear, SHOHEI, Jennifer Ritz and Helen Couture chose this platform to showcase their garments. According to Sunil Sethi, Chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India, “There is no possibilities for conducting on ground fashion week at this tough time. On looking into other alternatives, there comes the digital fashion show. The main purpose of the fashion shows for the designers is to make business. And that can be made possible, only if they get the platform like these to showcase their developed collections for the upcoming season.” He also added that the sets are now replaced with virtual space considering the public health. On a very different perspective, Digital Fashion Shows are now used to raise funds for this Nobel Corona virus. On May 1, the first ever

Digital Fashion Show was “entirely from home”. This Global event was hosted by the Head of Fashion and Beauty – YouTube, Carine Roitfeld and directed by Fabien Constant. CR Runway with amfAR aimed to raise funds against COVID 19. AmfAR is one of the leading firms conducting research on infectious diseases. The CR runway brought supermodels and designers together in one digital platform to raise funds. Models walking in the show rocked the Show with designs from their own wardrobes, styled remotely by Roitfeld. Models’ choreography was done in proper co-ordination with the respective teams. The models filmed themselves “walking”. All recordings of models were then combined, edited and uploaded on YouTube on May 1, 2020. And this event was welcome among models and Fashion enthusiasts. Crisis always proves that “Change is the constant solution”. The more

we adapt, the more interesting we will be. References: 1.

•https://crrunwayxamfar.org/

•https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/ cancelled-fashion-weeks-give-rise-to-virtual-shows-digital-campaigns-and-morejacquemus-valentino-paris-milan

•https://yourstory.com/weekender/fashion-avatars-bigthinx-fashinnovation-virtual-show

•https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/ india-moves-towards-its-first-ever-digitalfashion-week

•https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/retail-tech/technology-behindscreens-virtual-fashion-shows/

•https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/ how-deep-tech-can-play-a-big-role-intransforming-fashion-bigthinx

•https://images.app.goo.gl/Mm2KPikFrVEhdZP77

Bio fabricated Clothing built in Sustainability -Biogarmentry Project through Photosynthesis by Algae: A Project Reported Dixha Rani Intern at Textile Value Chain

bstract A photosynthetic textile is a step towards limiting our adverse environmental contributions, and also provides an entry point for the public to speculate on the future of textiles. This can open up possibilities for alternative development and

consumption processes by looking at materials as building blocks for the design process. It can create a textile which live and breathe so that, when it worn on the body, it can clean the air. This research project proposes the creation of a photosynthetic textile and gives an approach that, we learn to take care of our clothes in ways, that keep them alive so that, they can be used

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to their maximum capacity. The first proof of the concept was developed with the aid of a group of scientists at the University of British Columbia. The work consists of a series of interventions, in order to create, a biodegradable living textile capable of photosynthesis. For the survival of photosynthetic living cells in natural fabrics, various forms of cellulose and protein- based fibres

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were studied. Keywords: Photosynthetic textile, Bio fabrication, Biodegradable, New Scenarios, Sustainability. Introduction The biogarment project was planned to counter the dramatic rise in the effects of textile waste and air pollution on the environment. As a way to open up prospects for the future of fashion, the project used the fields of synthetic biology and architecture. Biogarmentry examines what place design should have in our link to living things. With an eco-friendly approach and a creative vision, there are goods that fully revolutionise the fashion industry. While the fashion industry has made gains in sustainable clothing production over the past few years, there is still a long way to go. Fortunately, a handful of designers are coming up with amazingly creative solutions to really change the ecofashion notion. One such visionary is the Canadian-Iranian designer Roya Aghighi, whose latest clothing line, Biogarmentry, is made of algae, through photosynthesis, transforms carbon dioxide into oxygen. The content would act to purify the air through photosynthesis, both completely compostable and, more importantly, while living. Since the life cycle of the living photosynthetic textile depends directly on how it is taken care of, while serving as a catalyst for behavioural improvement, the job questions our current relationship with clothing. In order to help the consumer, keep their biogarments alive, biogarments come with exclusive care instructions that promote a change in our current views of fashion and how we handle it. We create a more intimate relationship with our clothes by caring for them in this environment, where clothes are dependent beings. Ultimately, biogarmentry seeks to introduce a potential future for textiles by taking active approaches to change, and also examines the use of biology in design to inspire reflection and to promote new design roles and values.

Background Algea grows 10 times faster than terrestrial plants, and to generate an equivalent amount of biomass, it requires less than a tenth of the ground. It grows on land that is non- productive and non-arable, so it does not compete for land with other crops. It can be fertilised more effectively than land crops because it does not need fresh water, and prevent heavy water use, excessive ertiliser runoff, and downstream eutrophication associated with modern agriculture. Fig. 1. Algae in Nature

that breathe by converting carbon dioxide into oxygen. Instead of tinkering at the margins, Biogarmentry proposes a complete redesign.

As a more sustainable alternative to fast fashion, Canadian-Iranian designer Roya Aghighi has created clothes made from algae that convert carbon dioxide into oxygen through photosynthesis. The clothes are the proof of concept for a textile made with living, photosynthetic cells, called Biogarmentry. The project has been shortlisted in the category of sustainable design for the Dezeen Awards Aghighi&#39;s biofabricated textiles, in a partnership between the University of British Colombia (UBC) and Emily Carr Univeristy, are living organisms

Methodology The living aspect of textiles will change the relationship between consumers and their clothes, changing collective behaviours to shape a sustainable future around our consumption- oriented habits. Chlamydomonas reinhardtii, a type of single-cell green algae, is spun together with nano polymers to create a fabric for biogarment. The result, which feels like linen, is the first non-woven living and photosynthetic textile to be made. In order to keep them alive, wearers will have to take care of their clothes as they would a plant, rather than engaging in the environmentally dam-

Fig. 2. Biogarmenting Project

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S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y aging tradition of produce synthetic clothes and after a few uses, discard them. Fig. 3. The first Living and Photosynthetic textile

month, but if properly cared for, this duration may be extended.

By being exposed to sunlight, biogarmentry is allowed. The owner will only need to spray them with water once a week instead of washing their clothes. Users can develop an emotional connetion to their garments by keeping textiles alive. “As the life cycle of the living photosynthetic textile depends directly on how it is taken care of, clothing care can regain ascendance as a critical component of the system.” The clothing also improves the wearer’s immediate environment by turning carbon dioxide into oxygen, and worn enmasse could help regulate carbon emissions. It could be disposed of through composting after the consumer is done with the garment. The textiles are currently expected to live for around a NOVEMBERR 2020

Result and Conclusion Biogarmentry proposes a complete redesign. The living aspect of textiles will change the relationship of consumers with their clothing and move collective behaviours to shape a sustainable future around consumption-oriented habits. In addition to its sustainable design, the textile is also easy-to-maintain. Green algae contain chloroplasts containing chlorophyll, which offer a vivid green colour to them. The cell walls of green algae usually contain cellulose, and they store carbohydrate in the form of starch. To keep it clean, the garments just need to be watered once in a while, just like real live plants. When the garment has reached the end of its life cycle, which, for the moment, is just a month, it can be used for composting. Future Prospect A joint undertaking by the Advanced Materials and Process Engineering Laboratory and the Botany Lab at UBC was a feasibility study by Biogarmentry. Aghighi is currently a resident designer in the Netherlands at the Material Experience Lab. Ecologic Studio is using the power of photosynthesis with an algae-filled facade covering buildings that philtres air pollution

HANDLOOM SECTOR Biofabrication designs include Australia, pp. 581-595. headphones made from fungus and [2] Abdel-Raouf N., Al-Hopackaging of food made from algae. maidan A.A, Ibraheem I.B.M (2012). In the sphere of sustainability and Microalgae and wastewater treatenvironmentalism, food packaging ment. Saudi J. Biol. Sci. 19(3):257has become a priority. Walk down 275. any store aisle or look at your own Ahmad A.L, Yasin N.M, Derek shopping cart, and you're likely to [3] C.J.C, Lim J.K (2011). Microalgae as see package after package made of a sustainable energy source for bioplastic centred on petroleum. Biodiesel production: a review. Renew. fabrication gives the next direction Sustain. Energy Rev. 15(1):584-593. to create an algae-based alternative to plastic, have chosen to address [4] Begum, H., Yusoff, F.M., Bathe problem. nerjee, S., Khatoon, H., and Shariff, M. (2016) Availability and utilization References of pigments from microalgae. 2209– [1] Sonja Hindrum, Bissember 2222. A. (2018). Growing and Bio-fabriOdjadjare, E.C., Mutanda, T., cating SCOBY, University of Sydney, [5] 39

and Olaniran, A.O. (2017) Potential biotechnological application of microalgae. 37–52. [6] Roya Aghighi, (2019). Ecofashion. Inhabitat.com [7] Briantais, J.M., Vernotte, C., Picaud, M. & Krause, G.H. (1979) A quantitative study of the slow decline of chloro-phyll a fluorescence in isolated chloroplasts. Biochim. Bio-phys. Acta. 548: 128–138. [8] Masojidek, J., Kopecky, J., Koblzek, M. & Torzillo, G. (2004) The xanthophyll cycle in green algae (Chlorophyta): its role in the photosynthetic apparatus. Plant Biol. 6: 342–349

A wholesome glimpse of handloom sector in the middle of market Radha Gobinda Das, Goutam Bar National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneshwar

bstract Marketing is a gamechanger in case of the handloom sector. The

middlemen have a crucial role in connecting the weaver to the consumer. The power loom has a major market share in India and have a core preference over the handloom sector, due to lack of proper marketing. The handloom retail have a smaller footfall rate usually, due to the ineffectiveness of marketing strategies. So, this report is intended to discuss the basic research problem that can have significant effect, at the end of the day. These four core players, when it comes to marketing are product, price, place and promotion related strategies. To make it easier to understand the relevance of marketing, on the basis of how the product has been assessed in the market, how the industry addresses its problems, what are the marketing strategy currently in run and why the development of handloom sector is still at stake,

discussion of what can be done. The report will include four types of marketing strategies at different levels with respect to market efficiency and effectiveness in the handloom industry. Key words: handloom, marketing, effective and efficient commercialisation Introduction The market for handloom industry is also vast, like any other market. In order to have an understanding, it has been simplified by many researchers. In order to categorise the market, we can categorise it in four different parts such as the Village market, the self-consumption sector, the market in distance which is basically the urban market and the export market. In this entire structure, the monopoly players are where the master weavers are colNOVEMBER 2020

laborated with the private retailers and that covers up around 90% of market offering. These products are usually traded directly at the traderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retail houses or they are sold by other big-time intermediary wholesalers and the retailers. The other crucial fragment are the merchant exporters who sell the handloom products via their international connections with foreign buyers or their indirect connections at the big-time foreign retail houses. Now, the workforce in this industry can be categorised under organised and unorganised sector. There are 3 core players in the textile market, the handloom sector, the power loom sector and the textile mills. India has a really bigger market potential in the holistic growth, when it is about the Handloom sector, according to many researchers. A recent survey, it is accountable for 14% in the field of production, which makes a core contribution of 4% in the National Gross Domestic product (GDP) and also accountable for 13% of the Gross Total Export. Currently, India feeds around 95 per cent of worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s total handloom fabric demands. Especially, the handloom fabrics like ikats and the other handloom fabrics which needs utmost intricacy and detailed Figure 1: The charkha

HANDLOOM SECTOR 40 design intervention, produced in cost range and negligible energy the clusters of India has a vital role requirements. It has the potential to play in global export market.It is in the domestic market, the sector also an attraction for many foreign is exclusively financed by NABARD, the services to this sector is providconsumers. ed through WSC, IIHT, NHDC, TexLiterature Review tile Committee and HEP etc. There Indian handloom sector is definite- are even provisions from banks for ly result of its rich cultural heritage the availability of raw materials, of India. In the handloom secto,r designs, Apparel Park etc. The govwomen have a predominant role to ernment has provisioned welfare play in to pre-loom and post-loom schemes, textile policies and has inactivities. Related activities include augurated Handloom Reservation dyeing, finishing, winding, bleach- Act with the scope of upliftment in ing, and embroidery. Indian hand- the textile sector. There are actions looms have significantly different taken by the government to protect feature than in comparison to the the interest of the artisans such as handlooms of other countries in labor ethics including minimum many aspects. It has a definite bal- wages act, maintaining work ethics, ance of both tradition and moder- eco-friendly regulations etc. by the nity in a piece of fabric, it has an government. endless spectrum of colours in the palette which is the expression of Now, inspite of all the worthy inheart and soul of Indian weavers, it stances in the government policies, is suitable looking at the design pa- they are undermined and look for rameters with respect to the cultur- the loopholes. Even though the al relevance, ethical design and has economy has the greatest potential, for the higher yield and productivdefinitely a traditional orientation. ity in the field of handloom and its The vast history and geography industry. There lies a missing line of of this territory, definitely adds all cross-checking and monitoring of that is said to be its strength and the how things are working in actufeatures. It is known as land of Cot- al. Now, in spite of all efforts by the ton, most of it cannot be replicated government, at central and state in power looms at a wider scale, it levels; there are problems related has the majority of skilled, semi- to the adequacy and qualitative skilled work force, incur a lower parameters of the raw materials. There is always a lack of managerial intellects, that are required, in order to meet the higher market sales. There has been a universal problem, that is applicable in almost all the clusters is that, there a lack of standardisation systems in the products. As there are no protocols followed in any cluster to maintain a range and balance in the homogeneity required in an order. Now, if there is design that makes a good place in the market, it takes more than enough time, for any cluster to accept any diversification and this doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t only go on the final products but also for the techniques, the machineries and the whole system. In some of the clusters there are even chemicals used to dye the yarns; which has been long banned. But the innocent artisans are expected to do so and are enslaved

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to their fate or occupation. Even, in some the clusters situated in the remote locations, there are problems like non-viable organisations that have a core role to play in the operational activities in the cluster. There are often, after-production costs that goes unnoticed. For example, there are no stock houses to keep the over produced products that go in the dead stock every year. Sometimes, this is due to heavy pricing and uncontrollable overheads. The policies, welfare schemes and the Handloom Act are there to ensure the pre-staged interests of the handloom workers. But due to the unnoticed monitoring of its implementation, it has given rise to some threats, that government now needs to see. There are several threats to this industry, which is corroding its future away, at this moment. In almost every cluster in this twentyfirst century the weavers are migrating to other trades. Even some of the well earning weavers are very aware of the very uncertainties, so they do not forsee their next generations involve in what they do. There is always a clash of design ideology, lack of design thinking and sensitivity in almost all the clusters, which has given it a heavy competition. In the power loom industries, the power looms have a technological upper hand to imitate the designs of the handlooms. The final products from the handloom industry often is not at an upper hand in the final pricing in the global market due to low maintenance of product standardisation. The weavers are at a crisis to realise and care about using eco-friendly elements in their production process which gets a tough competition with the mass-produced products in the market. According to a survey, 99% of the rural producers are unaware of the LPG ( liberalisation, privatisation, globalisation). There is a very under-maintained cohesion in the rural institutions, which acts as a potential threat to the existence of the handloom-clusters. Market study and trend analysis:

Now, the traditional structure of market with holding the idea of production will drive consumption has changed to, consumers will rule over what to be produced! Now, everything starts with a market research at firs,t then it goes under the design process to come up with a set of prototypes or a prototype. Once the prototype is produced it goes through the closer inspection of the consumer panel and is rectified according to the reactions and scanned feedback, after which it goes for the final commercialisation and advertisement. Followed by the market demand analysis USA (United states of America) is evident to be the biggest client for Indian textile products, with an estimated amount of $5.321 trillion during 2014, with a rise of 5% for the year from $4.0 trillion during 2009. Even the smaller countries in Asia for e.g. Malaysia initiated with an import order of US$ 0.85 Million from India during 2009-2010. But presently, there is a crucial market in the centres points abroad. Europe is the second biggest client country and other smaller countries. Even if we compare our hourly labour wages with other countries, it is comparatively more than at 22 among 25 countries with Rs. 67/ hour, where Switzerland has the maximum pay for per hour labour cost of Rs. 3300/hour and America with Rs. 1008/hour but its more than other Asian countries such as Pakistan, Cambodia, Indonesia, Philippines and Bangladesh. Discussion The Indian handloom sectors have seen the hardships and the good times. The government has taken many steps thorugh the welfare schemes, policies and acts such as Janata Cloth Scheme, Textile Policy-1985, Handloom Reservation Act-1985 and Hank Yarn Obligation scheme. But now, it is time that the government has to rethink beyond creating co-operatives. Now, it is the time that government has to make necessary steps in making these weavers as the next generation exporters. If we go by the data analy-

sis and the studies, the handloom industries should target the global market to have a better life, than just being sufficient. There are even bigtime clusters, those with a potential of selling their products directly in the global market, so the government should look more into finding ways to boost sales and export at various clusters. There should be a provision for the creation of State level export cell where there could be trend analysis reports, the style study, the color study and even the material analysis. There should be more involvement of the clusters in the international exhibitions and competitions, which can boost the exposure and the diversification, scope for the weavers. The weavers should come up with such designs which can not be replicated by any power looms and which can also obtain a good amoun,t in the final market and pay off the craftmanship of the weavers at the same time. Now, it has been a common problem of scarce availability of wider looms in many clusters which becomes very essential in creating home products such as bedsheets and curtains. Apart from these, the product tagging or Trademark approvals should be provided to the final products so as to get extra willingness from the international consumers. The clusters should give much focus and restriction on using eco friendly materials. Lastly, the deadstock disposal should be avoided at all costs. Conclusion India always has the potential to produce the 95% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s handloom products but now its not being sufficient to pay our weavers and artisans involved in this sector. The times ae such that there are specific threats which has shaken the future prospects of its existence due to certain negligence we have discussed above but with the necessary steps taken it can be taken from the family trait to the passion of the next generation of weavers. The handlooms are worn usually on occasions which seem more like just a hope for its existence. But that is not the real solution because NOVEMBER 2020

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of many reasons. So, it is high time for the sector to identify its market and maintain the standards to keep pace with all the different perspectives. Reference 1. Martin M (2013) Impact Economy, 2013, Creating sustainable apparel value chains: a primer on industry transformation. Suisse: Impact Economy. 2. Handloom Mark : www.hand-

loommark.gov.in/ 3. Behera, S. ‘Globalization process!!! A boon or curse for Indian Handloom Industry??’, ‘All India seminar on sustenance of handloom sector in the era of globalization’, 7-8, August, 2009, Bhubaneswar, (IEI), Orissa, p-44-45 4. Buhler, A. Fischer, E. and Nobholz, M. L. Indian Tie – Dyed Fabrics (Vol.4, 1980), P.20

5. Mohanty, B. C. and Krishna, K. Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh (Vol. 1, 1974, Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad, India), P. 18. 6. Mohanty, B. C. and Krishna, K. Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh (Vol. 1, 1974, Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad, India), P. 15

Yarn export flat in October, cotton gets a good start Nitin Madkaikar

asic textiles comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment in October was up 22% YoY in terms of US$ worth US$575 million or INR4,178 crore, accounting for about 2.3% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. The increase was mainly a recovery of sharp decrease of 26% seen in October 2019. Even compared with previous month, the increase was a mere 7%. Spun Yarn Yarns export or shipment totaled 109 million kg worth US$289 million or INR2,102 crore. They were 5% higher than October 2019 in terms of volume and just 1% up in terms of US$. Bangladesh was the largest importer in spun yarns with value up 11%, followed by China (-16%). These two markets accounted for about 35% to total yarn shipment during the month. Cotton yarn export was 88 million kg worth US$238 million (INR1,731 crore). These were shipped to 78 countries at an average price of US$2.72 a kg, up US cents 66 from previous month but US cents 8 down

from a year ago. Bangladesh was the top cotton yarn market, followed by China, Peru, Portugal and Vietnam. 100% man-made fibre yarns exports of 7.49 million kg, comprised 3.23 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.07 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.76 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn export was worth US$6.6 million or INR48 at an average price of US$2.04 per kg in October. USA was the largest market followed by Brazil and Turkey. Viscose spun yarns export was worth US$6.39 million and were exported at an average unit price of US$3.08 a kg. Bangladesh was the largest importer of viscose yarn, followed by Turley and Iran. Blended spun yarns worth US$33 million were exported in October, including 10.2 million kg of PC yarns and 2.3 million kg of PV yarns. Peru was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Peru while Turkey was the largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Brazil. Cotton Cotton export shipment in October, the first month of new 2020-21 mar-

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keting season, surged four times compared to last year in volume at 6.84 lakh bales worth INR1,238 crore or US$170 million. This was a good start to the season, as they were also doubled even compared with the first month of 2018-19 season. The 2019-20 season (Oct-19 to Sept-20) had ended with export of 61.84 lakh bales worth US$1,580 million or INR11,368 crore. Bangladesh was the largest market for Indian cotton export during October, followed by China and Vietnam. No shipment was reported to Pakistan during the month. Export price realisation for cotton averaged INR106 a kg or US cents 66.50 per pound during October. This was below Cotlook A index, the global spot price benchmark also compared with domestic spot price for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6. During the month, Cotlook averaged US$75.51 per pound and Shankar-6 at US cents 68.33 per pound, making Indian cotton more competitive in global market. Bangladesh imported Indian cotton at an average prices of US cents 68.56 per pound in October 2020 as against US cents 75.97 per pound a year ago. About 97% of its imports

YA R N R E P O R T consisted 28.5-34.5 mm length cotton. In similar comparison, Chi-

na import was slightly lower at US cents 65.63 per pound since its import of 28.5-34.5 mm length was below 95%. Realisation from Viet-

nam was US cents 64.21 per pound, since 91% of its import was of 28.5-34.5 mm length and about 2% of &lt;20 mm length cotton.

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E C O N O M Y U P DAT E

EMBARGO ADVISORY

This press release is embargoed against publication, telecast or circulation in any media till 12.00 noon today i.e. 16th November, 2020

GOVERNMENT OF INDIA MINISTRY OF COMMERCE & INDUSTRY DEPARTMENT FOR PROMOTION OF INDUSTRY AND INTERNAL TRADE OFFICE OF THE ECONOMICS ADVISER

New Delhi, Date: November 16th, 2020 PRESS RELEASE Index Numbers of Wholesale Price in India for the month of October, 2020 The Office of the Economic Adviser, Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade is releasing index numbers of wholesale price in India for the month of October, 2020 (Provisional) and for the month of August, 2020 (Final) in this press release. Provisional figures of Wholesale Price Index (WPI) are released on 14th of every month (or next working day) with a time lag of two weeks of the reference month and compiled with data received from institutional sources and selected manufacturing units across the country. After 10 weeks, the index is finalized and final figures are released and then frozen thereafter. INFLATION The rate of inflation, based on monthly WPI, stood at (1.48%) (provisional) for the month of October, 2020 (over October, 2019) as compared to 0.00 % during the corresponding month of the previous year. All Commodities/Major Groups ALL COMMODITIES I PRIMARY ARTICLES

Aug-20 (F)

Weight (%) 100.0 22.6

Sept-20 (P)

Oct-20 (P)

Index

Inflation

Index

Inflation

Index Inflation

122.0

0.41

122.9

1.32

123.8

1.48

146.7

1.88

150.3

5.10

152.4

4.74

II FUEL & POWER

13.2

92.0

-9.09

91.0

-9.54

91.1

-10.95

III MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS

64.2

119.4

1.36

119.8

1.61

120.3

2.12

24.4

154.3

4.75

157.6

6.92

159.3

5.78

FOOD INDEX

Note: P: Provisional, F: Final, * Rate of Inflation calculated over corresponding month of last year.

The movement of the index for the various commodity groups is summarized below:PRIMARY ARTICLES (Weight 22.62%) The index for this major group increased by (1.40%) to 152.4 (provisional) in October, 2020 from 150.3 (provisional) for the month of September, 2020. Prices of Non-food Articles (2.37%), Food Articles (1.37%) and Minerals (0.66%) increased in October, 2020 compared to September, 2020. Prices of crude petroleum & natural gas remain unchanged. FUEL & POWER (Weight 13.15%) The index for this major group increased by (0.11%) to 91.1 (provisional) in October, 2020

Page 1 of 5

NOVEMBER 2020

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This press release is embargoed against publication, telecast or circulation in any media till 12.00 noon today i.e. 16th November, 2020

from 91.0 (provisional) for the month of September, 2020. Prices of Electricity (4.26%) increased in October, 2020 compared to September, 2020. Prices of Mineral Oils (-1.93%) declined in October, 2020 compared to September, 2020. Prices of coal remain unchanged. MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS (Weight 64.23%) The index for this major group increased by (0.42%) to 120.3 (provisional) in October, 2020 from 119.8 (provisional) for the month of September, 2020. Out of the 22 NIC two-digit groups for Manufactured products, 13 groups that have witnessed increase in prices are manufacture of food products; textiles; wearing apparel; printing and reproduction of recorded media; chemicals and chemical products; pharmaceuticals, medicinal chemical and botanical products; rubber and plastics products; basic metals; fabricated metal products, except machinery and equipment; electrical equipment; machinery and equipment; other transport equipment; and furniture in October, 2020 as compared to September, 2020. Whereas 9 groups that have witnessed decrease in prices are manufacture of beverages; tobacco products; leather and related products; wood and of products of wood and cork; paper and paper products; other nonmetallic mineral products; computer, electronic and optical products; motor vehicles, trailers and semi-trailers; and other manufacturing in October, 2020 as compared to September, 2020. WPI FOOD INDEX (Weight 24.38%) The Food Index consisting of 'Food Articles' from Primary Articles group and 'Food Product' from Manufactured Products group have increased from 157.6 in September, 2020 to 159.3 in October, 2020. The rate of inflation based on WPI Food Index decreased from 6.92% in September, 2020 to 5.78% in October, 2020. FINAL INDEX FOR THE MONTH OF AUGUST, 2020 (BASE YEAR:2011-12=100) For the month of August, 2020 the final Wholesale Price Index and inflation rate for 'All Commodities' (Base: 2011-12=100) stood at 122.0 and 0.41% respectively. Note: 1. The WPI for October 2020, have been compiled at a weighted response rate of 78 percent, while the final figure for August, 2020 is based on the weighted response rate of 91 percent. The provisional figures of WPI will undergo revision as per the final revision policy of WPI. 2. Price Data are collected from selected institutional sources and industrial establishments spread across the country online through web based portal maintained by the National Informatics Centre (NIC).

Next date of press release: 14/12/2020 for the month of November, 2020 This press release, item indices, and inflation numbers are available at our home page http://eaindustry.nic.in

NOVEMBERR 2020

E CPORN CEO O SM V SE YR RU ES L PT E DO AR S TY E

EMBARGO ADVISORY

This press release is embargoed against publication, telecast or circulation in any media till 12.00 noon today i.e. 16th November, 2020 Annexure-I All India Wholesale Price Indices and Rates of Inflation (Base Year: 2011-12=100) for October, 2020 Commodities/Major Groups/Groups/SubGroups/Items

Latest month over month 201920202020 2021* 0.58 0.73

Weight

Index(Latest Month)*

100

123.8

I. PRIMARY ARTICLES

22.62

152.4

1.75

A. Food Articles

15.26

170.4

Cereals

2.82

155.5

Paddy

1.43

Wheat Pulses

ALL COMMODITIES

Cumulative Inflation (YoY) 201920202020 2021* 1.52 -0.54

1.40

6.20

3.09

1.37

0.37

-1.02

163.7

0.49

1.03

147.4

1.33

0.64

169.6

Vegetables

1.87

284.9

Potato

0.28

388.4

Onion

0.16

387.1

Fruits

1.6

Milk

WPI Based rate of Inflation (YoY) October October 2019 2020* 0.00 1.48

1.47

6.05

4.74

7.56

4.47

9.80

6.37

8.35

-0.08

8.32

-5.24

-0.43

3.22

2.90

4.50

0.61

-1.73

6.02

0.79

6.15

-8.10

0.69

3.73

18.06

12.25

16.57

15.93

19.11

9.24

24.03

9.34

38.97

25.23

9.74

9.78

-21.92

77.98

-19.60

107.70

8.55

72.27

47.15

-8.39

119.84

8.49

149.1

-1.02

-1.00

4.50

-1.12

2.72

-3.87

4.44

154.3

0.34

0.33

1.52

5.14

1.46

5.54

2.4

148.0

0.62

-1.79

6.42

3.73

7.61

1.65

4.12

129.7

-0.55

2.37

4.34

-2.02

2.19

2.85

1.12

158.0

-2.01

1.61

8.83

2.76

10.03

4.36

0.83

167.6

-0.78

0.66

17.97

4.04

9.40

9.11

D. Crude Petroleum

1.95

62.1

-4.52

0.00

-14.56

-28.82

-27.08

-13.63

II. FUEL & POWER

13.15

91.1

1.69

0.11

-2.74

-13.11

-8.09

-10.95

LPG

0.64

75.4

1.66

1.34

-11.72

-7.29

-30.78

2.86

Petrol

1.6

73.6

1.77

-0.94

-5.18

-18.84

-10.95

-14.62

3.1

75.8

1.39

-2.94

-3.31

-20.92

-9.53

-20.13

120.3

-0.08

0.42

0.46

0.80

-0.93

2.12

140.7

0.37

0.50

2.35

4.94

3.78

4.53

140.5

0.78

2.78

-4.65

15.58

-1.85

20.50

0.91

123.8

-0.56

-0.64

2.87

1.32

1.48

0.49

Mf/o Tobacco Products

0.51

155.3

-0.13

-1.65

2.60

2.19

3.00

0.58

Mf/o Textiles

4.88

114.7

-0.26

1.15

1.18

-3.67

-1.59

-2.22

Mf/o Wearing Apparel Mf/o Leather and Related Products Mf/o Wood And of Products of Wood and Cork Mf/o Paper and Paper Products Mf/o Chemicals and Chemical Products Mf/o Pharmaceuticals, Medicinal Chemical And Botanical Products Mf/o Rubber and Plastics Products Mf/o other Non-Metallic Mineral Products Cement, Lime and Plaster

0.81

138.2

-0.29

0.07

-0.63

-0.31

0.00

-0.14

118.0

-0.08

-2.85

-0.90

-2.79

-0.42

133.5

-0.30

-0.82

1.21

-0.44

0.91

-0.15

119.2

-0.50

-0.27

-1.64

-3.69

-0.75

116.8

-0.51

0.69

0.19

-2.28

-2.82

-0.26

131.0

0.79

1.39

2.95

3.22

2.92

3.31

109.7

0.18

0.92

-0.30

-0.88

-1.36

1.20

116.5

-1.28

-0.26

1.43

0.10

-0.09

0.95

1.64

119.1

-1.42

-0.67

5.64

0.95

4.60

0.76

Mf/o Basic Metals Mild Steel - Semi Finished Steel Mf/o Fabricated Metal Products, Except Machinery and Equipment

9.65

108.9

-0.96

0.93

-5.09

-0.92

-9.93

5.32

97.3

-0.75

0.00

-5.08

0.95

-8.30

4.85

114.4

-0.17

0.97

1.28

-1.86

-0.78

-0.61

Eggs, Meat & Fish B. Non-Food Articles Oil Seeds C. Minerals

HSD III. MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS Mf/o Food Products Vegetable And Animal Oils and Fats Mf/o Beverages

64.23 9.12 2.64

0.54 0.77 1.11 6.47 1.99 2.3 3.2

1.27 3.15

Note: * = Provisional, Mf/o = Manufacture of, YoY= Year on year.

NOVEMBER 2020

P E CC R OO E VS N ES R OM R SY E TL OU ERP AYD SA ET E EMBARGO ADVISORY

This press release is embargoed against publication, telecast or circulation in any media till 12.00 noon today i.e. 16th November, 2020

Annexure-II Commodities/Major Groups/Groups/Sub-Groups/Items

Weight

WPI based inflation figures for last 6 months May-20

Jun-20

Jul-20

Aug-20

Sept-20*

Oct-20*

100

-3.37

-1.81

-0.25

0.41

1.32

1.48

22.62

-2.14

-0.07

1.61

1.88

5.10

4.74

15.26

1.66

2.10

4.54

4.42

8.17

6.37

2.82

3.56

2.72

0.69

-1.60

-3.91

-5.24

Paddy

1.43

3.49

4.55

3.69

2.86

1.54

0.61

Wheat

1.03

7.17

5.11

2.54

-1.47

-5.24

-8.10

Pulses

0.64

12.54

10.10

10.24

9.86

12.53

15.93

Vegetables

1.87

-12.25

-9.21

8.20

7.23

36.54

25.23

Potato

0.28

52.56

56.20

69.07

83.44

107.63

107.70

Onion

0.16

5.81

-15.27

-25.56

-34.44

-31.64

8.49

Fruits

1.6

0.86

2.31

-3.03

-0.25

-3.89

-3.87

Milk

4.44

5.58

4.40

4.68

4.39

5.56

5.54

Eggs, Meat & Fish

2.4

2.08

4.45

5.27

6.23

4.15

1.65

4.12

-3.92

-2.80

-3.81

-3.31

-0.08

2.85

1.12

3.92

3.20

2.66

2.70

0.65

4.36

C. Minerals

0.83

-1.63

8.41

1.77

5.81

7.56

9.11

D. Crude Petroleum

1.95

-46.27

-25.17

-19.74

-15.40

-17.53

-13.63

13.15

-23.08

-16.24

-9.84

-9.09

-9.54

-10.95

LPG

0.64

-28.63

-19.96

-5.72

6.15

3.19

2.86

Petrol

1.6

-30.27

-22.34

-14.22

-13.66

-12.28

-14.62

3.1

-34.89

-24.55

-15.02

-14.33

-16.56

-20.13

64.23

-0.34

0.08

0.59

1.36

1.61

2.12

9.12

4.77

5.12

4.95

5.51

4.40

4.53

2.64

11.34

14.32

15.85

17.73

18.15

20.50

Mf/o Beverages

0.91

2.20

1.78

1.05

1.29

0.56

0.49

Mf/o Tobacco Products

0.51

4.83

2.99

3.34

-0.58

2.13

0.58

Mf/o Textiles

4.88

-3.68

-4.86

-5.05

-4.32

-3.57

-2.22

Mf/o Wearing Apparel

0.81

0.07

-0.51

-0.94

-0.07

-0.50

-0.14

0.54

-0.76

-0.84

-0.51

-0.92

-0.42

-1.19

-0.30

-0.52

0.37

-0.15

-1.79

-1.71

-1.80

-1.98

-0.75

-3.59

-2.77

-2.11

-1.78

-1.44

-0.26

2.39

2.86

3.75

3.40

2.70

3.31

-1.83

-1.46

-1.65

-0.65

0.46

1.20

-0.25

0.00

-0.17

-0.09

0.95

ALL COMMODITIES I. PRIMARY ARTICLES A. Food Articles Cereals

B. Non-Food Articles Oil Seeds

II. FUEL & POWER

HSD III. MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS Mf/o Food Products Vegetable And Animal Oils and Fats

Mf/o Leather and Related Products Mf/o Wood And of Products of Wood and Cork

0.77

Mf/o Paper and Paper Products

1.11

Mf/o Chemicals and Chemical Products

6.47

Mf/o Pharmaceuticals, Medicinal Chemical And Botanical Products

1.99

Mf/o Rubber and Plastics Products

2.3

Mf/o other Non-Metallic Mineral Products

3.2

Cement, Lime and Plaster

1.64

0.98

0.08

1.08

1.52

0.00

0.76

9.65

-5.75

-4.51

-2.90

1.82

3.35

5.32

1.27

-2.69

-1.87

0.00

4.38

4.06

4.85

-3.59

-2.07

-1.39

-1.92

-1.73

-0.61

Mf/o Basic Metals Mild Steel - Semi Finished Steel Mf/o Fabricated Metal Products, Except Machinery and Equipment

3.15

* = Provisional, Mf/o = Manufacture of

NOVEMBERR 2020

Page 4 of 5

E CPORN CEO O V YR RU P D T E SM SE ES LT EO AR SY

EMBARGO ADVISORY

This press release is embargoed against publication, telecast or circulation in any media till 12.00 noon today i.e. 16th November, 2020 Annexure-III Commodities/Major Groups/Groups/Sub-Groups/Items

Weight

WPI Index for last 6 months May-20

Jun-20

Jul-20

Aug-20

Sept-20*

Oct-20*

100

117.5

119.3

121.0

122.0

122.9

123.8

I. PRIMARY ARTICLES

22.62

137.3

140.9

145.1

146.7

150.3

152.4

A. Food Articles

15.26

153.1

155.4

161.3

163.0

168.1

170.4

2.82

162.7

162.2

161.5

159.8

157.1

155.5

Paddy

1.43

163.1

165.6

165.8

165.4

164.4

163.7

Wheat

1.03

161.5

158.5

157.3

154.2

150.0

147.4

Pulses

0.64

159.7

159.2

159.4

163.5

169.6

Vegetables

1.87

153.3

166.6

208.5

212.1

260.8

284.9

Potato

0.28

240.9

265.7

297.9

322.3

353.8

388.4

Onion

0.16

142.0

133.7

135.4

142.4

224.7

387.1

Fruits

1.6

152.2

150.8

150.6

158.9

150.6

149.1

Milk

4.44

151.4

151.9

152.1

152.3

153.8

154.3

2.4

147.3

152.5

151.9

153.4

150.7

148.0

4.12

122.5

125.1

123.8

125.5

126.7

129.7

1.12

153.6

154.8

154.1

155.8

155.5

158.0

C. Minerals

0.83

150.9

166.3

166.5

167.6

166.5

167.6

D. Crude Petroleum

1.95

43.9

56.2

60.6

62.1

II. FUEL & POWER

13.15

80.3

85.6

90.7

92.0

91.0

91.1

LPG

0.64

65.3

73.8

74.2

74.4

75.4

Petrol

1.6

61.5

66.4

73.0

73.3

74.3

73.6

3.1

62.9

71.6

79.2

80.1

78.1

75.8

64.23

118.2

118.6

118.7

119.4

119.8

120.3

9.12

136.1

137.5

137.8

139.8

140.0

140.7

2.64

125.7

128.5

130.1

134.1

136.7

140.5

Mf/o Beverages

0.91

125.4

125.5

125.0

125.3

124.6

123.8

Mf/o Tobacco Products

0.51

160.6

158.6

157.6

153.0

157.9

155.3

Mf/o Textiles

4.88

115.2

113.6

112.9

113.0

113.4

114.7

Mf/o Wearing Apparel

0.81

138.4

137.3

136.4

137.5

138.1

138.2

0.54

118.3

117.6

117.7

118.1

118.0

133.1

134.1

134.3

133.6

134.6

133.5

1.11

120.8

120.4

119.9

119.0

119.8

119.2

6.47

115.5

115.7

115.9

116.1

116.0

116.8

128.6

129.3

130.0

130.7

129.2

131.0

107.4

107.7

107.3

107.6

108.7

109.7

118.2

118.3

117.3

116.6

116.8

116.5

1.64

123.8

121.9

121.5

120.3

119.9

119.1

9.65

103.3

103.8

106.5

107.9

108.9

ALL COMMODITIES

Cereals

Eggs, Meat & Fish B. Non-Food Articles Oil Seeds

HSD III. MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS Mf/o Food Products Vegetable And Animal Oils and Fats

Mf/o Leather and Related Products Mf/o Wood And of Products of Wood and Cork Mf/o Paper and Paper Products Mf/o Chemicals and Chemical Products Mf/o Pharmaceuticals, Medicinal Chemical And Botanical Products Mf/o Rubber and Plastics Products Mf/o other Non-Metallic Mineral Products Cement, Lime and Plaster Mf/o Basic Metals Mild Steel - Semi Finished Steel Mf/o Fabricated Metal Products, Except Machinery and Equipment * = Provisional, Mf/o = Manufacture of

0.77

1.99 2.3 3.2

1.27 3.15

94.1

94.4

94.9

97.7

97.3

112.8

113.8

113.3

112.5

113.3

114.4

NOVEMBER 2020

*************

INTERVIEW

the crown JOURNEY OF miss india 1964 Ms. Meher Castelino

ith such an involvement in Fashion and Beauty industry, you have come a long way today. What is your favourite part of your journey, the time, which speaks to you and is the most important to you even today? The most favourite part of my journey has to be when I was selected Miss India 1964 and went on to represent India at the Miss United Nations Contest in Mallorca, Spain and the Miss Universe Contest in Miami Beach Florida, USA. The title of Miss India opened many doors for me, then and even now after over five decades; the title has brought me a lot of attention and love. What is your take on the influence of Bollywood industry over Fashion industry? When it comes to fashion, beauty and glamour they walk together with the film industry all over the world. Even in Hollywood when a brand from any of these categories wants to attract attention, it is the film world that is one of the easiest avenues. When a film star or celebrity is connected with a brand or label, it is natural for the consumer to follow, though at times this association can be taken too far and may

not be necessary for other products that are not categorized as glamour. You have been in the industry for such a long time, and are still a prominent gem of Fashion industry, we would likeÂ to know from your perspective, what are the major changes the Industry has gone through inÂ terms of Fashion designers and their practices, consumer perspective of fashion, and the very prestigious pageants. The fashion and beauty industries have gone through a major change since the 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when I started. In the beginning, fashion was guided by the textiles mills in the country that set the fashion trends. Fashion shows were held all over the country to promote the latest textile collections of top mills like DCM, Hakoba, Calico, Khatau, ICICI Terene, Mafatlal, Morarjee and many more. It was only in 1987 when Ensemble opened with high fashion, foreign trained designers and the fashion designer culture started. The start of NIFT in Delhi by the Government of India, brought trained fashion designers to the forefront. Since then, the fashion industry has snowballed into a massive business in India with fashion institutes mushrooming all over the country and thousands of graduates emerging from them. This in turn brought the start of Fashion Weeks in India, which have turned, into a new avenue of business. The beauty pageants also took off after 1964, in an Annual manner. But after the dual win of Sushmita Sen and Aishwari-

ya Rai in 1994, the beauty pageants became another form of promoting the beauty brands in India, which for many of the Companies, is a very big and important market. Fashion is being commercialised. While most artists and designers regard it as a form of self-expression, what is your perspective on the commercialisation of this art form? Fashion has to reach the masses from the classes if designers have to succeed in the business. So the ready-to-wear market is very important and considering it as an art form, is not going to make good commercial sense. Fashion trends change and that is what keeps the business of fashion moving, otherwise designers will be in trouble. Fashion is also an indication of the social and economic evolution of a country, so one can check the financial state of the world from the way people dress. The different decades have a distinct fashion story to tell which has been not only fascinating but also inspiring for the designers of the modern era. Fashion is evolving at a fast pace. What are the trends/practices in the fashion industry, including journalism, would you like to bring back to today? And what are the trends/practices you absolutely love which are eminent today in the industry? The evolution of fashion is important for the industry to progress and flourish. Trends are cyclical and they come and go all the time. But the practices in the fashion industry that need to be looked at closely are the retail and price structures. NOVEMBER 2020

ICNOTVEERRV ISETW ORY

What I am happy about today are, the number of talented designers who have graduated from the wellknown fashion institutes and their creativity; which they are bringing to the designing platform. As far as journalism is concerned, because of social media everyone is a critic and tends to give opinions and advise whether they know about fashion designing or not. How to you spend your day? What are your favourite things to do which keeps you grounded amid the charm and the glamour of Fashion Industry? I spend my day writing and interviewing people for the many publications that I contribute to. I also ensure that I keep myself updated on the latest fashion happenings in India as well as the rest of the world. I treat my work as a job like any other and do not think it is a great glamorous achievement. I strictly maintain the deadlines given to me by the editors and often suggest story ideas that are relevant to the fashion business. Amid the going pandemic, consumers have become more aware of their consumption habits and sustainable choices. How do you think the industry willevolve now, in terms of consumer behaviour, designers, brands, labels, etc. The pandemic will definitely affect

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the designers, retailers, brands, labels and of course, the consumers. Gone are the days of impulse buying amongst the consumers. Now buying will be on a need base system with the value-for-money price tag being an important factor when a person goes shopping. The designers will have to concentrate more on the Made in India aspect because that is what the consumer will be looking for. The price will also have to be under control and no longer will a customer agree to shell out lakhs of rupees for a garment that will be worn just once. Even the bridal wear market will have to be very controlled. The concept of sustainability will have to be brought in most designers; since that is the only way forward for the fashion industry in India and the world. Our local textiles, crafts, handlooms and embroidery have to be promoted on an aggressive manner if our weavers and craftsmen are to survive in the future. India is the only country in the world that has this rich heritage, which the rest of the world is looking at and we cannot let it, fade away but have to now strengthen it, more than ever . Tell us about the book you are working on (We are very excited to read your words in a book!). What inspired you to write the book and for what audience isit? Give us a sneak peak into the areas that the book will be covering.

www.innovativedesigns.in

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My third book “Fashion Musings” is quite different from my first two books. My first book “Manstyle” was on men’s wear and a guide for men on how to dress. My second book “Fashion Kaleidoscope” was the evolution of Indian fashion from 1960 to 1990. My third book “Fashion Musings” that was launched on August 31, 2020 is a humorous take on all aspects of the fashion, beauty and the film business. It is a spoof on these industries and written in a very unusual style, which is the Q & A format. It is very, light, relaxing reading, which will keep the reader amused about the imaginary happenings in the fashion, beauty and film business. At this point in time, what would you advise the budding Fashion designers and Journalists? It is now a difficult time to be in the fashion and publishing business but what is needed is a different creative approach in both categories. The buyers for both may be limited so it will be necessary to think in a sensible manner, whether presenting a collection or writing an article. In both cases it would be wise not to go for hype; but present a steady good informative look. In the journalism segment it is wise to talk to the reader on a level ground and not preach from above and look down at the reader.

innovative.designs.prints@gmail.com

COV I NETRE S RT VO I ERW Y

‘The Recycle Man of India’ Who created USE out of the USELESS. Dr. Binish R. Desai Entrepreneur, Businessman

r. Binish Desai is an innovator and a Social Entrepreneur working on industrial waste recycling and management. He holds a Masters degree in Environmental Engineering and an Honorary Ph.D in Environmental Science and Technology. He started his journey at a very young age of 11years, by carrying out home based experiments with chewing gum and paper. He currently has 150+ eco-products under the EcoEclectic Technologies banner in India. He is a Padma Shri nominee and has received many Nnational and International awards for his contributions. He is the youngest to be awarded the &quot;Rotary International Alumni Humanitarian of the Year&quot; award for South Asia and Forbes 30 Under 30 Asia 2018 list of successful Social Entrepreneurs. He is known as The Waste Warrior and Recycle Man of India for his works in recycling more than 700 tonnes of Industrial waste. He believes that the concept of &quot;Waste&quot; does not exist in Nature, the waste was generated by human consumption, and thus it is our duty to sustainably get rid of it. With a vision to eliminate the industrial waste from

landfills; he founded Eco Eclectic Technology in 2016, a lab that focuses on providing cost effective eco-friendly technologies and solutions for various industrial wastes and using them for social impact. Brand name: E.E. Tech Group, Eco Eclectic Technologies, Eco Lights Studio. Company name: Eco Eclectic Group. Brand Tagline: “Nothing is useless in this world; what can be a waste to you is someone’s asset” USP: Convert waste into eco innovations and luxury and empowering women. What inspired you to start a Company in Recycling and Waste Management and what was the purpose behind it? At the age of 10, when I got inspired from my favourite cartoons Captain Planet and Dexter’s Lab. In the same fashion of trying to help Captain Planet, I started thinking of how I can help save the environment. My first innovation was actually when I observed the water vapor that was coming out ofmy mom’s kitchen and that resulted in my first innovation. So I created a machine where all the water vapor from the kitchen could be condensed into water for gardening. So that seemed to be a crazy innovation, because that is

when I learned about evaporation and condensation. The reason I am here today is actually because of my invention at the age of 11 when a chewing gum was stuck on my pants during a classroom and I had to remove it with a piece of paper. So, it had hardened up and I went back home and did the same experiment again. That resulted in invention of the first brick. Back then it was never meant to be a brick; that was during the same time when I learned the word slums in the class and the negativity that surrounded it. So, I decided to create world’s most cost-effective homes and that is how the idea of making bricks out of that material came into existence. Keeping that in mind of creating world’s most cost effective home, I continued experimenting and by the age of 14 years, I had my final recipe that was to be patented. During the same time, I got selected as Rotary Exchange student to the United States. That changed my life forever, because this was the transition period of one year which made me go from pursuing a passion to actually pursuing a career. So in 2010, at the age of 16, after returning back from US, I started my company, the first Company of making the bricks out of paper wastes. I had only Rs.1600 in my pocket. When I told my family that I want to start something like this and they said “Sorry, but we will not support you in this”. Because workNOVEMBER 2020

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ing with waste was a taboo and when I started talking about it, people thought I had gone crazy. And that is how the first day at work looked like, in a parking lot of a paper mill which I had visited and asked for space. They gave me their parking lot space next to a gutter. I started making bricks myself, as I did not have money to hire the labourers. It took me around 11 months to create enough bricks to make the first house. What were the Challenges you faced during the journey? The biggest hardship that I faced was while trying to put the word out about how waste could be converted in this eco product because as working with waste was a taboo, that to a 16 year old trying to explain everyone that he has created this brick which is even better than the age old red brick that everyone has been using. So what I started doing was when I would go meet anyone I would take 2 bricks, one red regular brick and another one which I had made. I would tell them that throw as hard as you want, hit it as many times as you want, drive a car over it, put in water for as many days as you like and things like that just so that they can compare the two and they themselves would have a look at it and that brought in trust about the product and that is one of the ways I cleared the hurdles of the acceptance aspect of it. The second major hurdle was trying to safeguard the technology; because when you have something unique, although you have a patent. But I was able to overcome it by keeping all our ingredients a trade secret and not revealing any of our binders or our recipes to anyone outside. So that was our way to overcome the challenges that we had and we cleared that as well. But I think that is not an issue of acceptance of the created the product, now everyone is talking about waste, everyone knows that Dr. Binish Desai is working towards converting wastes into an asset. The brand has been created in terms

of trust and something unique that should be looked upon. I believe very strongly that, unless the product is not just, it is not commercially, economically viable, I will not displclose it. That trust has to be built up among the industries, among the people and among the consumers. They are excited and always waiting to see our new products. What are the opportunities and achievements your brand has received till date? I think the biggest achievement for my company and the brand is basically in trying to uplift the lives of many in the villages of rural India. I still remember an incident when an old grandma hugged me and started crying, saying that the reason why my granddaughter is getting married is because of your efforts in the construction of our house and the toilet. That is till date, one of the most special moments for me. I consider that as an achievement of the Group; because we are able to not just recycle the manmade waste but impact the lives of the people in need. That igs exactly what my brand has achieved and overall. As you are aware of I’m known as ‘The Recycle Man’ of India that comes along with a responsibility, although it’s an achievement but It always comes with a responsibility of ensuring that no waste gets wasted. So I always use the tagline ‘Waste No Waste’ and to think, that is exactly what signifies this entire concept. What has been your approach towards product innovation? Research and Development strategies? We are actually a research driven company; in fact one of the group of companies is purely towards creating eco economical products through research and development, so our strategies are very simple. We follow the triple bottom line concept. We are assessing the products in three stages, environmental impact, social impact and

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economic viability and not just economic viability. It has to be easily economically available for the consumers as well. So while we are creating something new, we keep a balance of all three in mind. We have around 150+ products from 70+ different types of waste that we are working on and we have created these products. We work on very unique projects as well. We are customizing a project, for example of a salon where we are taking up all their waste and converting that into products that are of useful to them. This creates a circular economy where their waste becomes their treasure! How important is sustainability to you? Sustainability is the core ideology of our company, as we believe in triple bottom line where we take sustainability as a balance of environmental impact, social impact and economic impact. Considering all these things, sustainability is the core idea that I personally believe in and as well as my group of companies believe in. How has your company kept pace with technological up gradation over the years? So as we celebrate the 10 th year of the formation of the company, we are very glad that we have been coping up with the technologies. In fact, we are very excited to be able to develop new products using the current technologies. Right now we are working on three different things on houses made out of materials, that would be a very unique project and we are very excited about it. The new types of pollutants that are coming up every day, for example PPE pollution, it has taken the world with a storm during the pandemic! We are very happy to announce that we are now recycling PPE kits as well into brick 2.0. It’s an updated version of the previous brick that I had invented when I was 11 years old, that is what was the result of thousands of houses and

INTERVIEW toilets and today we have launched brick 2.0 which basically has 52% of PPE waste. So we are always getting updated with the new technologies, and faced with new challenges that the world keeps giving. In terms of the waste management, we are very happy of being able to manage it well. In fact our 2025 goal is to make India waste free by having solutions to all the waste that is generated from different industries. What are the current issues being faced by textile and apparel industry? Do you have any suggestions for improvement? I think a lot of fashion industries and textile industries need to move towards from the linear cycle to circular economy, not just recycling economy but actually circular economy. I think that is where the challenges are. In fact, overall textile and apparel industries is one of the most polluting industries that we know of, and reducing the waste will help them become much more eco friendly in terms of the waste being generated. But I envision that one day there is no waste generated at all. During manufacturing, post-production waste, or may be post-consumer waste, all need to be taken care of in the right way. Before that finding eco friendly alternatives to the materials that are being manufactured is also a key, that I feel needs to be kept in mind. What is your take on the future

scenario of recycling, up cycling, sustainability and waste management segment in the domestic as well as global market? Domestically, I see India as a leading solution provider of zero waste technologies that we are making locally and selling globally. India has alway had its rich culture and the ideology of recycling. We at times name it as jugaad but that is also a type of upcycling and recycling. Innovations and startups are coming up in an amazing way to solve the environmental crises; specially related towards waste. Understanding the right meaning of recycling and waste management will be the key towards finding solutions. Not just domestically but also globally after this pandemic I think, it will be more important than ever to discuss waste being an asset and start taking waste seriously. Where do you see your company in next 5 and 10 years? We see my group of companies expanding all around the world globally, finding solutions to various types of wastes generated in all these countries, not just domestic but also industrial waste. The technology we have, is being used to put in the right places according to the Sustainable Development Goals. We are globally creating an impact; every year we are recycling more than 20,000 metric tons of wastes.

â&#x20AC;˘ www.fashionvaluechain.com

That is our goal for the next 5 to 10 years. Branding Strategies in Indian and International Market Eco eclectic technology believes in converting wastes into eco economical and social innovations. The mere purpose is making waste an asset in a way that it can be useful to the one in need. I think by now the name Binish Desai has been strongly associated with recycling and I think that itself is the branding that helps the overall E-Tech group create products that are directly impacting the market, not just locally but also globally. Branding has helped us create products that people can immediately start adapting to it. For example recently we have launched two new products, one is eco-jewellery which is going to be handmade out of coffee waste and the other is ecocrockeries that we are launching on Diwali. And I think these two are going to be in the segment where they became a brand of you know waste being a luxury, waste being handmade and reaching out to each and every person, each and every household. And that is the idea we want, waste that can be used as a raw material to create something new and which is also there in everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house as an eco product. So just re-defining waste is what we are working on, in ways of branding it.

â&#x20AC;˘ fashionvaluechain@gmail.com

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INTERVIEW

JOURNEY OF A SUCCESSFUL EDUCATIONIST Dr. P. V. Kadole, Director DKTE Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji

hare your Education and Professional Journey For me, teaching is the most profession. Only education can save Societies and individuals from probable failure. I have been the Director of DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, for several years and taught both, at the graduate and postgraduate level. Till date, I have guided 4 Ph.D., 24 M. Text dissertations and 54 B. Text. projects. 4 Ph.D. Research and 7 M. Text projects are ongoing. Currently, I am Principal Investigator/ Co-ordinator of 9 Government funded projects. I am also working as Chairman, The Institution of Engineers (India) Kolhapur Local Center. I started my journey of teaching in 1990, with DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji. After completing M. Tech in Textile Technology, I pursued Ph.D. in Textile Engineering in 2009. Till now, I have published 6 books, 1 book chapter, 134 papers; 59 in International Journals and 75 in National Journals. I have presented 52 papers in Conferences; 28 at International level and 24 at National level. I had participated in various National and International level Conferences to be in touch with innovative technologies in the textile field. I am a member of various professional bodies such as The Textile Institute, UK., Global Engineering Deans Council (GEDC), USA, ISTE, TAI, FIE etc. I have been awarded as Best Teacher Award instituted by Rotary

Club, Ideal Teacher Award by Apte Wachan Mandir, Golden Educationist of India Award and Life Time Education Achievement Award by International Institute of Education & Management, New Delhi for Outstanding Achievements in the field of Education, Best Principal Award instituted for Exploring Advances in Engineering, Life Time Achievement Award by International Organization of Scientific Research & Development and Life Time Achievement Award 2019 by Integrated Chambers of Commerce &amp; Industry. I was also nominated for Who’s Who of the World, USA and IBC England. As Principal/Director of DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, I have brought many laurels to the institute like: • Autonomous Status to the Institute granted by University Grants Commission (UGC) and Shivaji University in 2016, • Accreditation by National Assessment and Accreditation Council NAAC by getting A+ Grade with CGPA 3.53 in 2017, • National Board of Accreditation NBA has accredited 9 programs in the year 2017 and 2018, • Permanent Affiliation to all the programs by Shivaji University in the Year 2015 • Received Award as Best Industry Linked Technical Institute from AICTE – CII in the nationwide survey to assess the intensive interaction of institute with industry twice in 2015 & 2017

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Got the Award as Best Institute for Textile Engineering from Ministry of Textiles, Govt. Of India Because of the interaction with Textile industry and Textile Machinery manufacturing Organisations, the Institute has received many State-of-the-Art machines and equipments as Gift, free of cost from leading textile machinery manufacturers like Rieter, Trutzscler, Somet, Savio, Fongs, Then, Schlafhorst, SSM, Kirloskar Toyoda, Murata, Sulzer, Smit, Dornier, Mayer & Cie, etc. Brought several funded projects from various ministries, Govt. Departments Consistently securing good Ranks for the institute in various surveys conducted by Magazines like CSR, HER, Silicon, EFY Our institute is figured amongst the Top 50 Self-financed Colleges in the country, in “ATAL Ranking of Institutions on Innovation Achievements (ARIIA 2020)”, published by Ministry of Education, Government of India (Rank 33 rd ) Signed MoUs with following Foreign Universities North Carolina State University, USA (NCSU) Hochschule Niederrhein University, Germany Troy University, USA University of California Los Angeles (UCLA), USA The Copperbelt University

INTERVIEW (CBU), Zambia • Eastern Michigan University, USA • Busitema University, Uganda • Kenyatta University, Kenya • School of Textile Technology, Indonesia • Chenkuo Technology University, Taiwan • HOF University, Germany • Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic. • Wuhan Textile University, China • University of Bargamo, Italy • Texas Tech University, USA • Chonnam National University, south Korea • Yeungnam University, Republic Korea • Tennessee Tech University, USA • Northern University Bangladesh (NUB), Dhaka, Bangladesh • BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT), Bangladesh • HAFACEN, Vietnam • Aachen University, Germany • Saxion University, Netherlands Being an educationist, your journey from Industry life and interaction On my industrial experience, I have worked as Tech. Manager in Texto Craft, Madras and as a R &amp; D Officer in Rajabahadur Spinning & Weaving Mills Ltd., Pune. The interaction with the industry is phenomenal, through multiple ways. I have undergone training in different industries. Apart from providing educational facilities of the highest standard, I myself and our team; we are intensively engaged in research and development and providing services to the industry. We have been helping the industry in the areas of material testing, training at various levels, product and process development and providing turnkey consultancy for set-

ting up projects in the areas of spinning, weaving, knitting, chemical processing and garment making. A good number of projects setup by us are already operational and are considered as ideal projects in these areas. Due to our high standard in academics, as well as research and due to our close interaction with the industry, many leading machinery manufactures from all over the world have come forward to donate their latest machines to our institute. Rieter, Trutzschler, ATE, Murata, Then, Fongs, Dornier, Smit, Staubli, Toyoda, Zinser, Savio, Promatech, Schlafhorst, ACIMIT, Pinter, SSM,KTTM, Harish-Wivita, Mayer &Cie, are amongst the prominent donors of machines to us. These machines are useful not only for training our students, but also carry out various trials on these machines for the industry. As a Mentor, what are the qualities, capabilities you choose in your Ph.D scholars? From my point of view, the PhD aspirant must be self-directed, motivated, and highly disciplined. The candidate should have good communication, good analytical as well as managerial skills. With the start of doctoral studies, the student must be in a position to define the research problem, with critical literature review. With a good knowledge of statistical tools, the candidate should be in position to plan the work with suitable statistical model. He/she should be able to identify the strategy for experimentation and data collection. Further, the PhD scholar should have the necessary skills to analyse the data, followed by drawing conclusions. With critical thinking and writing skills the students should be capable of writing the reports and research articles. He/She should have the inclination to put efforts to solve the problems in industry and society by choosing appropriate topics. How has the textile industry evolved in the last few years?

The textile industry covers a wide range of diversified products, right from conventional handloom to the organised industry such as spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting, with a supply chain system. The Indian textiles industry is set for strong growth, buoyed by strong domestic consumption as well as an export demand. Being mass production system, large scale textile industries are capital and labour intensive. The textiles and apparel industry in India is the second-largest employer in the country providing direct employment to 45 million people and 60 million people in allied industries. The Indian government has initiated a number of export promotion policies for the textile sector. The domestic textiles and apparel industry contribute 2% to India’s GDP, 7% of industry output in value terms and 12% of the country’s export earnings. The domestic textiles and apparel industry stood at $140 bn in 2018 (including handicrafts) of which $100 bn was domestically consumed while the remaining portion worth $40 bn was exported to the world market. Further, the domestic consumption of $100 bn was divided into apparel at $74 bn, technical textiles at $19 bn and home furnishings at $7 bn. While exports comprised of textile exports at $20.5 bn apparel exports at $16.1 bn and handlooms at $3.8 bn. India has also become the second-largest manufacturer of PPE in the world. More than 600 companies in India are certified to produce PPEs today, whose global market worth is expected to be over $92.5 bn by 2025, up from $52.7 bn in 2019. (https://www.investindia. gov.in/sector/textiles-apparel) What are the latest trends in the industry? The COVID-19 pandemic has shaken up the entire textile industry. The demand for textile products has been decreased both foreign and domestic markets. The textile community is scared because of cash crunch, increase in raw material cost, shortage in raw material supply, supply chain disturbance and manpower-related issues. It is NOVEMBER 2020

INTERVIEW

expected that the industry may take a much longer time to recover after the lockdown. The major textile operations starting from cotton ginning to garment manufacturing and final market are distributed into different regions based on their locational advantageous and are connected with transportations facilities. Since the transportation systems as well as manufacturing activities are still not normalized between the different locations due to localized COVID hot spots area, movement of material is not happening smoothly and affecting entire value chain. The units having entire value chain in one place have grabbed advantage in this case and have started their operations quickly and could give final product directly to the market. In the current situation, spinning units should see forward integration keeping demand of native/domestic market. Spinning industry is becoming non-viable day by day due to various practical reasons. Future expansion therefore, should be on value addition to final textile garments rather than spinning capacity expansion. Views on Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste management With noteworthy per capita consumption of clothing, the textile industry has huge size and scope and it is one of the largest industries in the world. Nevertheless, textile industry is one of the biggest sources of greenhouse gases on Earth and depicts significant carbon footprint, due to the type of materials used and the various processes. Carbon footprint reduction has now, become a mandate in order to protect our planet. From the point of view of sustainability, textile industry has huge scope in making a remarkable difference in terms of environmental, economic and social. Looking into this matter, corrective measures have to be initiated by the researchers and technologists to reduce carbon foot prints and load on environment. Use of natural resources is the first

solution for this problem. Energy intensive processes are required to be modified. Wherever possible, new technologies and machineries should be adopted to reduce consumption of energy, water and chemicals. Additionally, one can implement environmental management system, including corrective and preventive action plans for effective monitoring and controlling of waste and pollution levels. Recycling and reuse of the material is another effective step towards suitability. Brands can link the business to environmental and social improvements by innovative changes in raw material and production processes, by recycling the material. Producers can apply for the environmental labels such as EU Ecolabel, Blue Angel, Nordic Swan, GOTS. On similar lines, various initiatives are taken by industries such as Nike, H&M and many more. Reduction in shoe box size, effluent discharge monitoring, recycling cloth hangers, recycling and reuse of yarn are few of the business modification done by Nike. In collaboration with NASA, Nike has designed various steps for clean production. About technical textile industry, the products such as mulch mats in agro textiles, pads in medical textiles, interiors in automotive textiles etc. are now being designed making use of biodegradable raw materials. PLA, the biodegradable plastics, derived from corn, is fit for various application in medical textiles. To reduce the waste generation because of plastic carry bags, one of the remarkable advancements in textile industry is manufacturing of nonwoven bags made of natural fibres. How have you personally adopted sustainability in your life? The major change over towards education in today’s COVID pandemic situation is online platforms for educating the students. This can be considered as a sustainable change in education system. What I feel is, that students can learn safely, staying at home in critical situations like today. Even after the students re-join the institute regularly, teach-

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ers can adopt a concept of blended mode of teaching by making use of both classroom and online teaching-learning process. How has COVID-19 treated you and changes you feel after COVID-19? The COVID-19 outbreak has significantly affected the educational system all over the world, thus resulting in the partial and total closure of Schools, Colleges, and Universities to control the spread of the disease. As a response to this, our Institute has chosen a variety of ways to continue education in these times of uncertainty. Technical learning: Since the educational institutions had to lock down due to the crisis, the learning process was affected and discontinued initially. However, DKTE came up with innovative ideas to conduct the classes. Considering the situation, digital learning was the only option to continue education. Faculty members of DKTE made use of communication platforms and applications such as Google Meet, Google Classroom, Microsoft Teams, Zoom, etc. to conduct lectures. They even shared videos through websites, portals, social media (like YouTube and Facebook) so that students can access them as and when required. These methods have also helped students to get acquainted with the use of new learning technology. Tests and examinations: Due to the sudden and unexpected emergence of the outbreak, DKTE had to postpone the mid-semester tests and term-end examinations. Before the pandemic, the written examination was the widely accepted method of assessing students. But now, as the world is moving towards digital education, our Institute has also conducted online quizzes and tests using various software like Moodle, Quizes, Google quiz, etc. Multiple Choice Questions (MCQs) replaced descriptive questions. Oral examinations or viva were conducted through telephonic and video calls.

INTERVIEW Online courses: sera to provide free courses to their Since the Educational Institutes students and keep them engaged have been locked for students, in learning. These courses consist they have ample time in their daily of assignments, activities, and quizschedule. AICTE/UGC/MHRD has zes which help the learners to track designed various online courses their performance and improve in the form of Swayam, NPTEL, learning. MOOCS that allow the students to Webinars: learn continuously as per their area DKTE also encouraged faculty of interest and at their own pace. 5678Ăż

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Âťmcuq Âťmcon NOVEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

NOVEMBERR 2020

CONDUCTIVE TEXTILE

NOVEMBER 2020

November 2020

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The recycle man of India who created use out of the useless

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SUSTAINABILITY

Need of textile research institute & education programs to gear-up textile industry

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INTERVIEW

Bio-nanomaterials for development of health care textiles

HANDLOOM

Role of GST in facilitating chances in the textile industry of India