Unveiling Leather (May 2021) by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

VOLUME 9 | ISSUE NO. 5 | RS 100 | Pages 65 ISSN NO : 2278-8972 |RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

UNVEILING LEATHER

MAY 2021

IN CONVERSATION WITH DR. K. J. SREERAM FUTURE TRENDS OF VEGAN LEATHER

EMERGING GLOBAL TRENDS IN LEATHER REJUVENATING FOLK PAINTINGS ON TEXTILE PRODUCTS: A REVIEW

www.textilevaluechain.in Postal registration No. MNE/346/2021-23, posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel sorting office, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar( East), Mumbai - 400075 Posting date is end of month ( 29th/ 30th / 31st )

COVER STORY

MARCH 2021

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MARCH 2021

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2.9m or 3.5m working width – less space requirement – better blending

Better blending from the beginning: BO-P The new portal bale opener allows up to 50% more working width and 25 to 40% better blending. At the same time, the portal concept saves floor space: The BO-P can also be placed close to a wall because the bale lay-down area is freely accessible. w w w.truet zschler.c om

MARCH 2021

COVER STORY

MARCH 2021

CONTENTS 08 10 13 15 17 19 21

INTERVIEW

IN CONVERSATION WITH Dr. K. J. SREERAM Director of CSIR-CLRI

COVER STORY

EXPLORING SEA LEATHERWEAR by Kshipra Gadey EMERGING GLOBAL TRENDS IN LEATHER by Rupali Kshatriya FUTURE TRENDS OF VEGAN LEATHER by Shivani Gaikwad LEATHER MADE OUT OF CACTUS by Dr. N. N. Mahapatra STUDY OF LEATHER FABRIC by Pradnya Avhad BEING WHOLESOME by Pearl Bhansal

LEATHER ANTIQUITY by Saayali Gaikwad

LEATHER PROCESSING by Vaibhavi Kokane

RECYCLING LEATHER by Ashwini Tarte and Dr. Suman D. Mundkur MONPA HANDMADE PAPER OF ARUNACHAL PRADESH by Shipra Yadav COIR PRODUCTS EXPORT OPPORTUNITIES by Dr. J. Anandha Kumar

MARKET REPORT

COTTON UPDATE

SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE FOR BENEFITTING ENVIRONMENT, ECONOMY & INDUSTRY by Manish Daga

INDIA AND UNFORESEEN TEXTILE MACHINERY EXPORTS IN THE FY 2021

INDIA EDIFICING COTTON DEMAND AND SUPPLY CHAIN

57 SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

HEMP by Aishwarya Patil

23 25

40 44

GLOBAL LEATHER MACHINERY EXPORT HIT HARD BY COVID-19 PANDEMIC

CAREER GUIDANCE

ELEVATING YOUR CAREER IN LEATHER DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY by Nalanda Gadey

59 60 62

YARN UPDATE

YARN EXPORT MAINTAINS TEMPO IN APRIL, COTTON TAKES LEAD by Textile Beacon FIBRE PRICES EASE IN MAY ENTERING LULL DEMAND SEASON by Textile Beacon

EVENT UPDATE

A REPORT ON SDC EC INDIA WEBINAR END TO END: PROCESSING AND WASTE MANAGEMENT

DILO GROUP ENGINEERING FOR NONWOVENS

NEWS

EDUCATION

FUTURE OF DESIGN EDUCATION CHALLENGING BUT WORTHWHILE... by Sonali Brid

CULP PRESENTS CHILLSENSE BEDDING TICKING TEXTURES

HR FOCUS

LENZING CLAIM TO FAME FILAMENTS TO BE PRODUCED USING MATERIAL WASTE

31 37

EMPATHY – A LESS VALUED LEADERSHIP COMPETENCY by Rajiv Misra

ADVERTISER INDEX

PEER REVIEW PAPER

REJUVENATING FOLK PAINTINGS ON TEXTILE PRODUCTS: A REVIEW by Nikita Sachwani

REVIEW PAPER

AN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY MUSHROOM LEATHER by V. Loga Subramani

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Raymond Rimtex Trutzschelar Malegaon Conference, Textile Value Chain M AY 2 0 2 1

EDITORIAL

LUXURY AND LEATHER IS MANTRA OF THE INDUSTRY! Leather is processed from Animal skin process, neither woven nor knitted nor compressed. It is purely a skin! Leather does not get classified as textile fibres. As leather does not come in conventional textiles and process of making is completely different. Leather is an ancillary industry from slaughter houses, meat industry. Leather processing gives its unique look and feel which is very widely sought by fashion community. Fashion industry cannot survive without leather products, fashion accessories, shoes, bags many more. Highly reputed brands prefer only leather. The skin of each creature is a cost for human fashion luxury statement. There is a great scope for diversifying products and finding new applications. For the development of this sector, new product / process technology, chemicals, waste management research and R&D has already been going on at CSIR- Central Leather Research Institute. The leather industry is an employment intensive sector, providing jobs to about 2.5 million people, mostly from the weaker sections of the society. Women employment is predominant in leather products sector with about 30% share. India is the second largest producer of footwear and leather garments in the world. This sector is known for its consistency in high export earnings, and it is among the top ten foreign exchange earners for the country. Vegan community is against the use of leather. Few companies advertise their fabrics as ecofriendly leather, which is made from natural materials such as leaves, mushrooms, bark, waxed canvas, organic cotton, recycled rubber, coconut, apple, many more. Sustainability is the mantra that works for them. Industry contributors can explore the sector and increase country’s export earning! We wish you luxury of life with a Virus Free World! Stay Safe… Take Care…!

JIGNA SHAH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

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INTERVIEW

IN CONVERSATION WITH DR. K. J. SREERAM DIRECTOR OF CSIR-CLRI Indian Leather industry share in global market

MEAT Industry. Leather is a by-product of the meat industry. Putrefiable raw hides and skins are processed to make them non-putrefiable. This process is called Tanning.

Leather garments form a significant segment of the Leather Industry in India. Leather garments production capacity is estimated to be 16 million pieces annually. India produces different types of leather garments i.e., jackets, long coats, waist coats/shirts, pant/ shorts, motorbike jackets, industrial leather garments, leather aprons etc. India is the second largest producer of leather garments, next only to China, which produces 70 million pieces of the total global trade volume of about 120 million pieces. It is a matter of great pride that Indian leather garments have been making giant strides in the world of fashion. National Institute of Fashion Technology and National Institute of Design lends design support to make continuous fashion statements. These Institutes provides well trained personnel and imaginative designers. India’s acknowledged strength is leather tanning and its ability to produce a wide variety of fashion leathers.

Leather contribution in fashion industry. The Leather Industry holds a prominent place in the Indian economy. This sector is known for its consistency in high export earnings, and it is among the top ten foreign exchange earners for the country. shortage of skins/ hides available for the leather industry. Leather is three dimensional in structure. Leather breathes. LEATHER is made from hides and skins of animals like goat, sheep, cow, and buffalo that are slaughtered primarily for the

With an annual turnover of over US$ 12 billion, the export of leather and leather products increased manifold over the past decades and touched US$ 6.5 billion during 2014-15, recording a cumulative annual growth rate of about 13.10% (5 years). The Leather industry is bestowed with

India’s position as the third largest global supplier of leather garments is only going to strengthen given the availability of quality raw material coupled with skilled craftsmanship. Major brands like ARMANI, ZEGNA, ABERCROMBIE & FITCH, MARCO POLO, MANGO, COLEHAAN, ANDREW MAARC, GUESS source Leather Garments from India. “LEATHER WILL NEVER DIE UNTIL ANIMAL EXIST” It is reiterated that leather is a byproduct of the meat Industry. If the meat Industry survives and cattle is reared for the purpose, there will be no

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INTERVIEW

an affluence of raw materials as India is endowed with 21% of world cattle & buffalo and 11% of world goat & sheep population. Added to this are the strengths of skilled manpower, innovative technology, increasing industry compliance to international environmental standards, and the dedicated support of the allied industries. The leather industry is an employment intensive sector, providing job to about 2.5 million people, mostly from the weaker sections of the society. Women employment is predominant in leather products sector with about 30% share. India is the second largest producer of footwear and leather garments in the world. Brief about CSIR -CLRI activities The CSIR-Central Leather Research Institute: It is World's largest Leather Research Institute was founded on 24 April 1948. The CLRI had made an initiative with foresight to link technology system with both academy and industry. CSIR-CLRI, today, is a central hub in Indian leather sector with direct roles in education, research, training, testing, designing, forecasting, planning, social empowerment and leading in science and technology relating to leather and allied products. Moreover, it has secured a top place on the map of scientific development as far as leather-research-industry is concerned. State-of-art facilities in CSIR-CLRI support, innovation in leather processing, creative designing of leather products viz. leather garment, leather goods, footwear, and development of novel environmental technologies for leather sector.

It is one matter to design and develop technologies but entirely another to promote such viable technologies in a traditional sector like leather. CSIRCLRI in 1948, made an initiative with foresight to link technology system with both academy and industry. It assumed the role of being a part of the University of Madras in imparting education in leather technology. The seed sown in 1948 has now grown into a tree with nearly 60% of the leather industry in India being manned and managed by the Alumni of CSIR-CLRI. CSIR-CLRI is a global leader in leather research. The technological services of the institute are as durable as leather. Leather and allied research form core areas of its activities. There is critical strength for research and development in some focus areas of science and technology. Research in CSIR-CLRI includes non-leather as well. Share Leather research activity in

terms of process technologies, chemicals, product technology, waste management, healthcare product technologies We are one of the leading leather research organization with leather processing technologies like Waterless Chrome Tanning Technology (WCTT), Preservation-Cum-Unhairing (PCU) Process, Odor Abatement System for Tanneries, Eco Based Zero Wastewater Discharge Process, Dry Tanning (Dispersing Agent), Rapid Fiber Opening by Cocktail of Enzymes and Chicken Feet Leather and Leather Products. We also work with leather chemicals like Retanning Cum Lubricant AgentRelub-17r, Retanning Agent Protan Khr, Protein Based Retanning Agent Crostan Ea, etc. Our waste management consists of Immobilized Oxidation Reactors (Ior) For Wastewater treatment, Sole from Fleshing's Waste, Sequential ToxicAnoxic Bio Reactor (Soabr) Technology For Reduction Of Primary Chemical Sludge In Wastewater treatment, Secure Landfill (Slf), Preparation of Compost from Animal Hair Waste (Process Based Technology) and Co-Digestion of Tannery Solid Waste For Biogas Generation. Our healthcare products include High Value Products from Trimming Waste (Hvp-T), Collagen Sheet (Wound Care) and Amiprojil-Paste/Powder for burns and wounds.

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COVER STORY

EXPLORING SEA LEATHERWEAR KSHIPRA GADEY Textile Value Chain

Introduction Efficiency of the human brain has always successfully found a way out to fulfill the needs through every possible aspect. When humans thought that they needed to cover their bodies, they invented clothing. This clothing was initially the skin of dead animals. Modern day man has evolved and developed immense technological advances. The similarity between the modern-day man and ancient is that both passionately wore the dead animals; then for need and now for a fashion statement. Humans have tried all the animal hides including mammals, reptiles, birds and even the human skin. How would aquatic animals stay safe in this race of beautiful hides for fashion? Humans have successfully created leather from every possible animal including aquatic animals like fish. Fish skin is an uncommon sort of leather. Lately, objects produced using stingray leather have been in fame, because of the glass globule like surface construction of the skin. Likewise, the expansion of fish ranches, for different species, has expanded the accessibility of fish skin, as skins would in some way or another be squandered. Fish leather is more grounded than other skin types, if similar thicknesses are looked at. The elasticity of fish leather comes up to 90 Newtons (for example salmon or roost). The assembling guideline for fish skin creation was created by the Nanai individuals from Eastern Siberia, who generally make fish leather articles of clothing. The tanning requires about a month. The skins considered for making fish

skin leather are Shark, salmon, carp, stingray, cod, ocean wolf and sturgeon. Fish skin for the most part has a flaky construction, is slenderer than leather and is viewed as versatile and tear safe. Procedure for making fish leather First step in making fish leather is gathering fish skins. For making this leather on small scale, skin can also be obtained from fish stalls. With the help of fleshing blade, overabundance tissue is scratched. Skin is then kept for absorption in saline arrangements. Scales are eliminated and with the help of synthetic specialists, producers discharge the scales. Skin is then detoxed. This fundamentally implies that the skins get an intensive washing to eliminate any oils or natural matter. It is then delicately cleaned. It can then be preserved or converted into hide. The skin can be refrigerated for preservation. Tanning procedure can be utilized for this. Fish leather can likewise be dried by pressing. It can further be coated for strength and waterproof property. Fishes that can be utilized for leather 1. Stingray Leather: The first one and the most widely used exotic leather is a stingray. Stingray skin is a solid, strong cowhide with a "rough" surface of smooth pearls across its surface and is both moderate and arrives in a wide exhibit of tones and sizes. Stingray skin, In view of the shifting levels of size among grown-up stingrays utilized for cowhide, stingray skin will be found in additional huge extravagance applications like upholstery, vehicle insides, and trims, while likewise being found

Figure 1: Stingray Leather

in more modest applications like wallets, satchels, adornments and decorates. Stingray skin is otherwise called shagreen. Today, the skins we purchase to make wallets, watch ties, wrapped boxes and little sacks, are for the most part from cultivated stingrays in Asia, specifically, Thailand. The skin has a sinewy tissue side comprised of collagen filaments, similar as standard cowhide, yet that is the place where the similitudes end. The surface is comprised of little circles, now and again called pearls. They are bigger in the focal point of the skin and more modest on the external edges. Each little circle is comprised of a hard substance called dentin, with a considerably harder external covering of veneer. The stingray utilizes this tooth like external protective layer as a guard framework against assault, which is the reason the circles just cover the space of the beam around the essential organs. During handling, the delicate substantial outside wings are taken out (for food utilization), and the

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upper layer of shagreen is shipped off for tanning. This is the reason stingray skin is not reliable with the state of a live stingray. Most stingray skins are chrome tanned which permits the skin to stay solid and adaptable for item make. 2. Atlantic Stingray Leather: The Atlantic stingray is a type of stingray in the family Dasyatidae, normal along the Atlantic shoreline of North America from Chesapeake Bay to Mexico, including bitter and freshwater environments. It very well might be recognized from different stingrays nearby by its generally stretched nose. This species

and scaly skin. They are used commercially for making fashion products in a variety of colors.

mal size is 0.6 square feet. Cod leather can be colored in quite a few different tones.

The barbe is a European freshwater fish of the carp family. The skin of the barbe has a commonplace scale structure and is immediately unmistakable as fish leather. Leather objects produced using barbe skin are exceptionally uncommon.

Cod leather is accessible in two sorts of finish: open scaling, which makes a coarse completion, and shut scaling, which conveys a fine completion. A full scope of surface medicines is conceivable with one or the other sort of finish.

4. Catfish Leather: The catfish is the biggest freshwater fish in Europe. They lean towards huge lakes and streams with sloppy water and are generally found in Central and Eastern Europe and Central Asia. The catfish has no scales. The calfskin is smooth with an unmistakable grain and drawing. A lot of designs can be obtained naturally obtained on catfish leather. The sizes vary naturally according to the size and type of the catfish slaughtered.

Figure 4: Catfish Leather Figure 2: Atlantic Stingray Leather

is of minimal business significance. The skin of the Atlantic stingray has a totally unique surface contrasted with the typical stingray leather. The skin does not have a pearl structure. Leather objects from Atlantic stingray cowhide are uncommon.

Figure 6: Eel Skin

Figure 5: Cod Leather

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Most different kinds of eels live in new water in Europe and Eastern America. Both European and American Eels leave their new water homes at producing time in the harvest time when they are prepared to lay their eggs. Youthful eels show up at some point in the spring.

5. Cod Leather: Leather produced using the cod is an uncommon blend of fine and coarse surfaces. The sizes of cod leather are somewhat better than those of the salmon, however the surface is more differed – generally smooth yet with clear coarse patches. Cod is found along Iceland's coast.

3. Carp Leather: Carp fishes are widely used across the world for obtaining leather. These fishes are of various varieties and come in different sizes. The most widely used carp type is regular carp for leather. This kind has a soft

Figure 3: Carp Leather

6. Eel Skin: Eels are fish not snakes. Since eels, like snakes, are legless. About the lone thing eels share practically speaking with snakes is that they are unfeeling and of comparative shape. Their bodies are smooth and disgusting to the touch and they live in the sea and in some new water sources universally. Marine (saltwater) eels like the Moray Eel and the Conger Eel arrive at imposing sizes. These species are wild and are found in coral reefs.

The length of cod leather stows away is somewhere in the range of 40 and 50 cm and the shape are remarkable. Cod leather covers up are triangular: most extensive at the neck, 12-15 cm and tightening back towards the tail. Nor-

Eel skins are a biresult of the fishing business (sushi) and they have a texture like quality and are sold in sheets generally alluded to as boards. More than 70 little skins entirely sewn together will make a genuine 1st grade eel board. Eel has as of late become exceptionally mainstream in European high design, which has led to a consistent expansion sought after abroad and, less significantly, locally. As the material is delicate and stretchable, this adaptability makes it ideal for applications like furniture upholstery,

COVER STORY vehicle upholstery, garments, and footwear. Eel skin boards are industrially created in boards which are 2 feet by 5 feet or 10 square foot. They come in both matte and reflexive completions in numerous shadings. Eel skin has a characteristic and sumptuous appearance and feel. Current development has delivered full aniline colored, metallic completions, unadulterated white, just as multi-hued boards. Eel leather is multiple times more grounded than commonplace cowhide cowhides of a similar thickness. All things considered, a few originators and fabricates are stressed that the meager idea of the skins and boards will deliver feeble or effectively tearable items. A typical practice is to follow or back their eel boards to fabric and additionally cow or pig skin. A few architects and produces grumble of spots or blunders when utilizing glue. The best arrangement is to inadequately splash vaporized cement as opposed to bunching a lot of standard cement when sponsorship or clinging to their indented surfaces. 7. Pacu Leather: Pacu from South America is identified with the piranha however it is an unadulterated product of the soil eater. It has striking teeth and a red stomach, while grown-ups have dark or dark paunches and weigh as much as 30 kilos. The pacu is a famous food fish and lives in streams and lakes. Like its perilous cousin, the piranha, the pacu is likewise covered with

neries granulate down the unpleasant scales, shark stow away has a special and stunning profound rock surface.

Figure 8: Parrotfish Leather

tus, or development. The leather from the tropical parrot fish is a run of the mill layered fish leather. The skins are 1.5" to 2" wide at the tightest end and 5" wide at the largest end. They are around 11" long down the center. 9. Salmon Leather: The skin of salmon is tanned. Salmon cowhide is dainty and light and is around 60 - 65 centimeters in length and 10 - 14 centimeters wide. The leather of salmon has a higher strength than sheep or pig leather. The principle use for this sort of leather is a specialty item for the embellishments market. Salmon leather is chic for packs, attire, or shoes. Salmon leather is regularly vegetable tanned or FOC (sans chrome) tanned.

Figure 9: Salmon Leather

numerous little scopes.

10. Shark Leather: Shark skin leather has a long relationship as a "extravagant leather great." Like most creature covers up, shark covers up are a side-effect of the food business. Fishers measure shark meat for human utilization and offer the skin to colorful leather providers.

8. Parrotfish Leather: Parrotfish have thick, hefty bodies and huge scopes. They are found in tropical waters all through the world and show up in a wide assortment of tones, which may change contingent upon their sex, sta-

Sharks have unpleasant, hard scales called denticles. Tthese denticles are ground down to make the leather smoother and simpler to deal with, which additionally gives shark leather its pebbled appearance. Since most tan-

Figure 7: Pacu Leather

Untanned skins are called shagreen, an overall term which likewise incorporates the untanned leather from ponies, seals, and even stingray cover up. Shark leather is intense and solid. It's difficult to the point that eighteenth and mid nineteenth century carpenters utilized shagreen for sandpaper. Even in the wake of being shaved down, the scales assist the leather with staying away from scrapes and scratches. 11. Other: Leather is not only obtained from the enlisted fish but also from several other fish like Tilapia, boxfish, moray eel, dolphinfish, puffer fish, etc. Major Fish Leather Producing Nations Across the World Leather industry is one of the oldest industries in the world. Nations across the globe compete not only to be a leading leather producer but to also sell their leather to leading designer labels of the world. Fish leather production is yet to be a leading commercial business for a lot of Nations. China, India, Indonesia, Japan, USA, Thailand, Vietnam, Chile, Brazil, etc. are one of the leading fish leather producers of the world. Kenya has witnessed a subsequent growth in fish leather production in the past decade. Fish leather production accounts to less share in the leather production sector. Majorly produced leather is procured from cow, buffalo, camel, pig, etc. Impact of Fish Leather Production on Aquatic Life Every kind of leather produced from the animal kingdom requires a major execution of innocent creatures for human luxury and fashion. Leather production is one of the main reasons for reduction in number of few exotic animals and reptiles like crocodiles, alligators, tigers, rhinos, lizards, snakes, etc. A hike in fish leather production has also witnessed a rise in killing of these aquatic animals for leather. This has majorly affected the aquatic ecosystem as not only the enlisted fishes, but other aquatic animals are also brutally killed for procuring leather.

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COVER STORY- Contest Winning Article

EMERGING GLOBAL TRENDS IN LEATHER RUPALI KSHATRIYA Department of B.Voc, Fashion Design, K.V.N. Naik College, Nashik Abstract As the worldwide populace blast, there were unavoidable ramifications on domesticated animals. Interest for food and haven have developed complex bringing about a disturbing shortage of land implied for raising creatures. Patterns should be anticipated thinking about conceivable exceptional changes. Design purchasers are getting more aware of the climate. They incline toward eco-accommodating material, traditionalist utilization of assets, diminished discharge of poisons, more noteworthy social responsibility, and reasonable treatment of workers underway offices. On the interest front, purchasers are quickly adjusting towards new plans and imaginative Leather contributions to guarantee they are in a state of harmony with changing style. Another factor that should be considered is the ascent of the BRICS (Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa) economies. Their prevailing situation in the work serious material and Leather enterprises makes it hard for different nations to coordinate with them. Keywords: Leather Industry, Eco – Leather, Trend, Developing Countries. Introduction The leather business has been a central participant in the worldwide trade market for centuries. Today it is unquestionably a significant industry of gigantic financial significance on a global scale; in only one year alone, 23 billion square feet of leather was created, bookkeeping to around 45 billion dollars. The business has not been un-

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affected since its beginning, yet rather has encountered numerous huge and weighty changes, especially in the last 20 to 30 years. Leather is utilized to make an assortment of articles, including footwear, auto seats, attire, packs, book ties, design extras, and furniture. It is delivered in a wide assortment of types and styles and enriched by a wide scope of procedures. Leather Cruel to animals: Leather utilization has gone under analysis in the 20th and 21st Century. As indicated by the LCA report for the United Nations Industrial Development Organization, 99% of the crude stows away and skins utilized in the creation of leather from creatures raised for meat and dairy creation. The main leather delivering Nations: Italy and Korea, trailed by the conditions of the previous USSR, India, Brazil, Mexico, USA, and China. Albeit the ecological guidelines set by agricultural nations are for the most part like those set by industrialized nations, they are substantially less liable to be upheld. Leather influencing the market patterns are leather bordered coats and hide managed Leather coats adding a particular touch to the tough leather. Leather is finished by leather cutting, Leather stepping, Leather embellishing, pyrography, beading, passing on

Leather or painting on Leather. The gentlest, most sumptuous Leather comes from the skin of infant or even unborn calves. Sourcing this Leather is dishonest. In numerous nations, quality norms are extremely high. Stella mccartney is utilizing eco-accommodating material for her shoes and purses. Advancement in baggage and Leather products with new advances and configuration is the significant for the business. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, Coach, Inc., Kering SA, Prada S.p.A, and Hermes International SCA are a portion of the significant makers of the gear and leather merchandise industry. Eco-Leather: Eco-Leather is made with fibers for example, flax or cotton blended in with palm, corn, soybean and other plant oils that are overlaid together in layers to make something that looks and feels as though it came from a creature. It is breathable. It does not take after plastic. In contrast to genuine Leather, which requires the poisonous tanning measure, materials in eco-leather are supportable and produce a low carbon impression. On the other side, the item is firm, it is hard to work with and the sewing breaks. So, we ca not yet utilize procedures accessible to make shoes with this material. Interest in the eco-Leather material is developing. Brands like Nike, Puma and Adidas have mentioned tests so they can explore different avenues regarding this new item. We can utilize plants to make bio-based material that replaces leather which has ecological and social concerns encompassing it the substitute could merit the pause.

COVER STORY- Contest Winning Article Beige Leather 2021: Beige Leather 2021 is not anything convoluted by any stretch of the imagination. It is just a blend of the two greatest patterns at this moment, beige, and leather! Beige leather skirts are likewise having their second. The beige leather frequently goes close with earthy colored; creature prints and everything hearty tones. So, this is a choice accept knee-high boots, turtlenecks, curiously large glasses, and layered outfits. Leather Trends Fall Winter 2021 2022: Climate change has been influencing society, making apprehension and uneasiness. The customers will be looking for expectation and rebuilding through perfect, feasible items. Interests in inventive innovations like a veggie lover (desert flora, mushroom, apple, grape, and pineapple Leather) or reused leather will lead this development. Eco-more amicable and more practical materials will have more prominent appeal to more up to date ages. Most customers will attempt to roll out an improvement in their utilization. In this manner, it will be essential to remember that there is a developing spotlight on quality over amount. 1. Intriguing Leather prints For ladies and men prepared to-wear and adornments, the reptile skin Leather will be one of the impressive patterns for Autumn-Winter 2021/2020. This print will be utilized for sacks, belts, shoes, coats and even furnishings. For this pattern, we will be searching for regular shades of a crocodile or snake. In this period of innovation, computerized, neon extraordinary examples are pursued. With this sort of print, you will need to make a piece that the customer will think about remarkable. 2. Shiny leather In response to expanded political and social pressures all throughout the planet, customers will search for "hard and fast" articulation for Autumn-Winter 21/22. Clients will be searching for lavish plans. The trend will be to utilize a smooth waxy completion on the leather to give a more advanced look, lavishness in footwear, prepared towear and adornments. Thus, when you

consider this specific amazingly radiant completion pattern, have as a top priority gleaming pants, metallic coats and fluid Leather coats. 3. Beautiful leather The shoppers will look for solace and a tad of euphoria in their sentimentality. The pastel shadings that will be on the spotlight for Autumn/Winter 21/22 will be •

Pastel TPX),

blue

(Pantone

12-4607

•

Cabbage (Pantone 13-5714 TPX),

•

Lavender Fog (13-3820 TCX),

•

Puristic Lilac (Pantone 14-3905 TCX),

•

Putty Pink (Pantone 13-1208 TCX)

•

Buff Orange (14-1128 TCX) and

•

Lemon Verbena (12-0742 TCX).

Zero in on colors that have a grayish suggestion that will bring a more adaptable touch. 1. Upcoming wearable leather trends in fashion industry Fashion trends are influenced by global shifts, considering foreign demand and driving marketplaces around the world. Snake, croc, and abstract designs can help to break up the monotony of leather. Dark, paranoid clothing has become the new hot. By emphasizing contrast, some interplay between darker and lighter colors might be appealing. A leather jacket with a fur collar is the greatest method to keep yourself toasty and stylish when it is too chilly to function. These jackets are the best way to combine warmth, elegance, and style. Coordinate the shade of the fur with the rest of your look or create a contrast by choosing a collar that stands out from your outfit.

2. Changing leather trend and vegan leather With the increasing emphasis on sustainability in fashion, vegan leather is becoming more common. The rising popularity of fake vegan leather is one of them. Vegans are those who oppose the use of animals as food. Meat and fish, as well as dairy products, eggs, and honey, are among them. Vegan product lines have been introduced by some of the world’s largest fashion labels in recent years, and the trend is rapidly spreading. 3. Leather innovations in fashion industry Without using chemically intensive methods, the leather can be dyed naturally and tanned. Pinatex, derived from pineapple plant leaves, and Beyond Leather, which uses leftovers from apple juice and cider processing. Plants, recycled cotton, hemp, natural rubber, cork, and vegetable oil can all be used to make leather. This promises a 40% reduction in carbon emissions as compared to conventional leather and a 17-fold reduction in carbon emissions as compared to synthetic leather made from plastic. Conclusion Many people value leather as a natural material and are interested in it, but they are sometimes unaware of what they have on hand. Leather has a clear and bold appearance that many people want in a statement piece. Leather is trending and thriving because of its versatility; it can easily be toned up or down for any style mix. Leather will continue to be used for a very long time in the future. References •

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/ industry-article/7739/emergingglobal-trends-in-leather-andfashion?amp=true

•

https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/sustainable-vegan-leather-alternatives

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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather

•

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2233/leather-trend-and-fashion

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COVER STORY- Contest Winning Article

FUTURE TRENDS OF VEGAN LEATHER SHIVANI GAIKWAD PG Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, SNDT Women’s University, Mumbai

Introduction Vegan leather also called “Faux” leather, is an alternative leather to animal leather. Vegan leather is not made from animal skin. Plants, fruits and plastic are the main materials, which is used to make vegan leather. Vegan leather has a similar look like leather which is produced from animal skin. Vegan leather is also known as Synthetic leather, Pleather and Alternative leather. Following are the latest substitutes and alternative of animal leather:

first UK brand who introduced designs using fruit leather mango material. 2. Elephant Ear Plant Leather Elephant Ear Plant Leather is produced by Nova Kaeru, an organic tannery based in Brazil. It has similar characteristics like traditional leather. This innovative leather is environment friendly. The CO2 emission of its production process are much lower as they are compensated by the carbon absorption of the plant growth. This leather is used to make bags and furniture.

1. Mango Leather

ther has Chitin, a kind of protein that gives the same properties which other leather gives such as strength and durability.

Figure 3. Fleather

4. Coconut Water Leather New fashion brand “Malai” uses bacterial cellulose obtained from coconut water to generate a leather like material. They used coconut water which is discarded from a factory is Kerala, India. The leather is compostable and biodegradable. This innovative, waterresistant textured leather is used to make purses, wallets, bags and shoes. Malai was launched by Zuzana Gombosova in 2018. Zuzana Gombosova, a material researcher and fashion designer from Slovakia & CS Susmith, a product designer from Kerala.

Luxtra is London based sustainable brand. Luxtra launched a handbag which are made from mangoes. To create the durable leather like material made from leftover mangoes, the Luxtra collaborate with Hugo De Boom & Koen Meerkerk- founders of the Dutch Compony Fruit Leather Rotterdam. To produced mango, leather the sourced leftover mangoes from fruit markets. Fruit leather produced the mango leather in its facilities in Rotterdam by mashing and boiling leftover mangoes to remove bacteria. Luxtra is one of the Figure 2. Elephant Ear Plant Leather

3. Fleather

Figure 1. Mango Leather

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Fleather is made from discarded flowers. Phool.co. backed by IIT Kanpur has made a fleather, a bio-material alternative to animal leather. This is made from enormous amount of flower waste from temples of Kanpur. Flea-

Figure 4. Coconut Water Leather

COVER STORY- Contest Winning Article 5. Green Tea Leather A research group at Auburn University in Alabama invented a material obtained from green tea, green tea material has similar properties like animal leather. When green tea material mixed with other sustainable fabric such as hemp, it becomes breathable, biodegradable and strong material. From this green tea leather the team made prototype shoes which tester resulted was more flexible & comfortable than animal leather.

Figure 5. Green Tea Leather

Applications of Vegan Leather  Automotive  Clothing  Furnishing  Footwear  Accessories

Further Development of Vegan Leather Leather is one of the greatest traded commodities in the world. Leather product industry play a important role in the world’s economy. Demand for vegan leather is increasing worldwide due to its various applications such as, pursues, bags, clothing, furnishing, automotive, accessories and others. Demand for a faux or vegan leather is driven by a range of components such as, evolving customers trend, increasing demand for animal free products, rising knowledge about the features of vegan leather among others. In the vegan leather market research and development work has played an important role in distinguishing the overall properties of vegan leather from traditional leather. Stockholders in the vegan leather market view are investing in research and develop vegan leather with excellent characteristics. Upcoming and established competitor in the current market landscape are involved in the production of vegan leather with different colors, patterns, functionalities and textures. There are various companies are get into strategic partnerships to produce innovative and durable vegan leather in line with trend of developing industries. In addition most of the companies are announcing alliance with other companies to facilitate the creation of new models aimed at commercializing different applications. Currently due to the increasing demand for vegan leather in various industries such as furnishing, clothing, footwear,

automotive, accessories, etc., vendors are expected to align their product development work, according to the need of the each of their industries. Reference 1.

https://www.livekindly.co/new-designer-vegan-leather-handbags-aremade-from-mangoes/

https://www.verycompostable.com/ posts/sustainability-a-unique-leatherlike-material-made-from-leaves/

https://materialdistrict.com/article/ bags-leaf-leather-recycled-pet/

https://www.livekindly.co/vegan-leather-indian-temple-flowers/

https://www.peta.org/living/personalcare-fashion/vegan-leather-chic-sustainable-and-fruity/

https://www.google.com/amp/s/vegconomist.com/market-and-trends/ vegan-leather-industry-will-be-worth89-6-billion-by-2025/amp/

Figure 1: https://www.livekindly.co/ new-designer-vegan-leather-handbags-are-made-from-mangoes/

Figure 2: https://materialdistrict.com/ article/bags-leaf-leather-recycled-pet/

Figure 3: https://www.tribuneindia. com/news/schools/now-fleather-analternative-to-animal-leather-220978

10. Figure 4: https://www.peta.org/living/ personal-care-fashion/vegan-leatherchic-sustainable-and-fruity/ 11. Figure 5: https://www.peta.org/living/ personal-care-fashion/vegan-leatherchic-sustainable-and-fruity/

FACTS White Leather is the hardest to create. Calfskin overall is a coarse and hard material. In any case, this trademark additionally has a disadvantage to it as not all covers up are not difficult to color. Particularly if there should be an occurrence of white leather as the color is inclined to breaking and doesn't set. Try not to be astonished in the event that you stroll into a cowhide store and can't help thinking about why the white items are more costly than their diversely hued partners.

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COVER STORY

LEATHER MADE OUT OF CACTUS Dr.N.N. MAHAPATRA Business Head (Dyes) Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd., Mumbai

Plant-based leather alternatives are a growing market, with innovators turning to pineapple, olives, and coconuts to produce eco-friendly materials. Earlier this year one of the leading brands unveiled a vegan jacket made from pineapple leather, while another launched a product of leather shoes made from olive leaves. Very interesting another local south India manufacturer came out with leather and accessories made from coconuts. With growing awareness of the effects of the leather industry on the environment and animals, the market for cruelty-free alternatives will keep growing. So many brands are out there, trying to make vegan leather as lowimpact as possible by using plants to create leather-like fabrics. Two factories in Mexico have developed durable vegan leather from cactus, and it could very well replace animal leather. Initially, all vegan leather was made of plastic-based materials. Later on due to further research in the last few years, textile scientists have discovered many ways to make vegan leather out of everything easily available from pineapples to cactus leaves to flowers. The vegan leather industry has come up now leaving aside the good old leather and coming out with some exciting plant-based leathers on the market. Very interesting every vegan leather is made from a plant, but unfortunately, none of them are fully biodegradable yet. That is because each material is either made with a mixture of plants and polyurethane or is plant-based and coated with a plastic-based resin. While there are a few brands already selling

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fully compostable sneakers, no one has been able to come out with compostable vegan leather shoes yet. But the good news is, most of the brands are finetuning towards perfecting their respective vegan leathers to make their shoes biodegradable. It is well known Vegan leather has always a lower impact than animalbased leather, whether it is plant-based or completely synthetic. Not only does vegan leather leave animals out of the picture, but the process of manufacturing like breeding, raising, and killing animals and tanning leather has a high environmental impact. To raise animals (typically cows) for leather requires large amounts of land, water, and cattle feed, the animals emit methane into the atmosphere; and the excrement from cattle bodies and factory farms pollutes the nearby waterways, soil, and air, which becomes a public health risk for people who live nearby. The manufacturers had previously made vegan leather from a mix of polyurethane and bio-oil. The bio-oil is sourced from cereal crops that were organically grown in northern Europe in a carbon-neutral process. The manufacturer is trying to stop using polyurethane to make its vegan leather and recently planning to come out with a new product using viscose made from eucalyptus bark. It has been found that all the major vegan leather manufacturers make vegan leathers made from plants but also contain polyurethane in their composition, usually in their finishing or as the backing material. It was a required component in the production.

Later on, people are thinking of a 100 percent biodegradable vegan leather technology that does not exist to exclude polyurethane totally but time is not far the researchers have developed a vegan leather made from nopal cactus leaves which are organic, partially biodegradable, soft, and durable which can be used to make furniture and car interiors in addition to fashion items like wallets, purses, and shoes. The scientists named Adrian Lopez Velarde and Marte Cazarez came together to create a cruelty-free alternative to animal leather, and just last month, they developed the first time an organic leather made entirely from nopal or prickly pear cactus which they name as “ Dessert “. They want to sell Desserto fabric to other designers and fashion brands, rather than design and sell their products. These nopal cactus grow in abundance across Mexico without requiring any water called a lowimpact crop. Cactus leather is a sustainable leather alternative made from Opuntia Cactus (also known as Nopal) that has been developed in Mexico. It is called Desserto and is a highly sustainable plantbased vegan leather made from cactus having superior softness to touch and great performance for a wide variety of applications and complying with the most rigorous quality and environmental standards. Developed by two entrepreneurs from Mexico who used to work in the automotive and fashion industries where they found strong environmental impact in both sectors it is concluded this vegan leather aims to

COVER STORY

offer a cruel-free and sustainable alternative, without toxic chemicals, phthalates, and PVC. Production of Vegan Leather It is one of the world’s most popular and heavy demand products where leather is part of an overwhelming $80 billion industry. Thanks to these two innovative entrepreneurs for developing a method of converting cactus into vegan leather which is so realistic to look and feel you would never imagine it was made from this desert plant. They have named their cactus vegan leather Desserto, and it is made from cactus grown on their plantation in the city of Zacatecas situated in Mexico. The cactus as a plant is having rugged, thick skin, which makes it the perfect texture to have a similar appearance to animal leather. Interestingly, the idea of using this raw material was mooted because this plant does not need any water to grow, and there is plenty of it throughout Mexico country. Before starting bulk production in various industries, it is essential to see the supply of cactus plant, the main raw material which should be stable and abundant. Presently they have 2 hectares where they cultivate cactus, as well as there is an expansion capacity of 40 hectares. Regarding production capacity, they can 500,000 linear meters of vegan leather a month. The harvesting process includes the cactus cycle where they select and cut only the mature leaves of the plant around every 6 - 8 months. No

irrigation systems are used as the cactus grow healthy with rainwater and earth minerals found in the soil. The vegan leather is made with leaves from the Prickly Pear Cactus. The mature leaves are cut from organically grown cactus plants, cleaned, mashed, and then left out in the sun to dry for three days until the desired humidity levels are achieved, before processing. The process for cactus leather involves using either the new young leaves or the mature leaves of the plant. It can then be dyed naturally using methods developed by the three innovators Adriano Di Marti, López Velarde’s, and Cázarez’s. This makes for vegan leather that is certified organic and can hold up to regular usage for nearly a decade.

3. It is Free from toxic chemicals 4. It is PVC free.

The organic raw material is then processed and mixed with non-toxic chemicals and then shaped into any texture and color. The ranch is fully organic, so no herbicides or pesticides are used in the process. All the remaining organic cactus material which are not used is exported and sold nationally to the food industry.

2. Leather goods

Properties of Vegan Leather It is also flexible, breathable, durable, and does not stain making it an ideal replacement for animal and synthetic leather. The touch and feel of the material are also soft and very similar to real leather. The product is also highly sustainable with a lower carbon footprint than other leather alternatives. The finest point is

The “ Desserto “ cactus vegan leather has been manufactured as per the technical specifications required by the fashion, leather goods, furniture, and even automotive industries. It is having a durability of around ten years, the cactus leather’s basic features, elasticity, customizable and breathable, are like those of animal or synthetic leather. Uses of Plant Leather Apart from being natural and crueltyfree, the material also meets the specifications of several industries and can be used in: 1. Fashion 3. Automobiles 4. Furniture Vegan leather is on par, in terms of pricing, with genuine leather. So far, the company has created car seats, shoes, handbags, and even apparel. In another plus for the environment, cactus leather is partially biodegradable and does not contain any plastic—another issue with synthetic leather. This makes for a true alternative to animal leather that does not harm the planet.

1. It is less water-intensive 2. It is Free from phthalates

FACTS Ages of Siberians and Scandinavians have been utilizing Salmon leather for quite a long time. Having started in Siberia, the antiquated craft of assembling Salmon leather has consistently been near and is more eco-accommodating in light of the utilization of the vegetable tanning strategy. Anyway, Salmon leather never acquired notoriety because of the lessening quantities of wild Salmon in specific spaces of the world and the wide accessibility of creature skin.

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COVER STORY

STUDY OF LEATHER FABRIC PRADNYA AVHAD DKTE Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Icchalkaranji

flexible material that, when rewetted, will putrefy, while tanned material dries to a flexible form that does not become putrid when rewetted.

Abstract Leather is a durable and flexible material created by tanning the animal raw hide. The mainly used raw material is cattle hide and skin. Leather usage has come under criticism in the 20th and 21st centuries by Animal Rights groups. These groups claim that buying or wearing leather is unethical because producing leather requires animals to be killed. However, according to the LCA report for the United Nations Industrial Development Organization, most of the raw hides and skins used in the production of leather were derived from animals that are raised for meat and/or dairy production. The skin and hide from the meat industry may create a major pollution. It can be either burnt or buried in landfill. Leather production utilizes the nonusable part of dead animals, so that, there will no waste of animals’ skin. It helps to decrease dead animal waste and improves economic growth of India by maximizing export of leather goods. Introduction Leather is processed by tanning animal raw hide and skins to make it durable and flexible. It can be produced at manufacturing scales ranging from artisan to modern industrial scale. Leather making has been practiced for more than 7,000 years; the earliest record of leather artifacts dates to 2200 BCE. Leather is used to make a variety of articles. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles and decorated by a wide range of techniques as in Fig. No.1. Leather usage has come under criticism in the 20th and 21st centuries by animal rights groups. These groups

claim that buying or wearing leather is unethical because producing leather requires animals to be killed. However, according to the LCA report for the United Nations Industrial Development Organization, 99% of the raw hides and skins used in the production of leather derive from animals raised for meat and/or dairy production. Manufacturing Process The leather manufacturing process is divided into three fundamental subprocesses: 1. Preparatory stages, 2. Tanning, and 3. Crusting. A further sub-process of finishing can be added into the leather processing sequence, but not all leathers receive finishing.

Many tanning methods and materials exist. The typical process sees tanners load the hides into a drum and immerse them in a tank that contains the tanning "liquor." The hides soak while the drum slowly rotates about its axis, and the tanning liquor slowly penetrates through the full thickness of the hide. Once the process achieves even penetration, workers slowly raise the liquor’s pH in a process called basification, which fixes the tanning material to the leather. The more tanning material fixed, the higher the leather’s hydrothermal stability and shrinkage temperature resistance. 3. Crusting is a process that thins and lubricates leather. It often includes a coloring operation. Chemicals added during crusting must be fixed in place. Crusting culminates with a drying and softening operation, and may include splitting, shaving, dyeing, whitening or other methods.

1. The preparatory stages are when the hide is prepared for tanning. Preparatory stages may include soaking, hair removal, liming, deliming, bating, bleaching, and pickling.

Finishing Process for some leathers, tanners apply a surface coating, called finishing. Finishing operations can include oiling, brushing, buffing, coating, polishing, embossing, glazing, or tumbling, among others.

2. Tanning is a process that stabilizes the proteins, particularly collagen, of the raw hide to increase the thermal, chemical, and microbiological stability of the hides and skins. Thus, making it suitable for a wide variety of end applications. The principal difference between raw and tanned hides is that raw hides dry out to form a hard, in-

Leather can be oiled to improve its water resistance. This currying process after tanning supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neat’s-foot oil, or a similar material keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramati-

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COVER STORY

cally [1]. Tanning methods Tanning processes largely differ in which chemicals are used in the tanning liquor. Some common types include: Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannins extracted from vegetable matter, such as tree bark prepared in bark mills. It is the oldest known method. Chrome-tanned leather is tanned using chromium sulfate and other chromium salts. It is also known as "wet blue" for the pale blue color of the undyed leather Aldehyde-tanned leather is tanned using glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds. It is referred to as "wet white" due to its pale cream color. Chamois leather is a form of aldehyde tanning that produces a porous and highly water-absorbent leather. Chamois leather is made using marine oils. Brain tanned leathers are made by a labor-intensive process that uses emulsified oils, often those of animal brains such as deer, cattle, and buffalo. Alum leather is transformed using aluminum salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour and egg yolk. Alum leather is not actually tanned; rather the process is called tawing. Grades of Leather  Top grain leather  Full grain leather

are many other parameters that influence the tear strength, the tanning method, the finish, the stiffness, or the age of the leather. Since leather is a natural product, every skin behaves differently. Resistance to tear is an important property. Good leather is stable and resistant to tearing, whereas suede, nubuck or extremely soft lambskin will not have the same stability as, for example, a belted leather.  High resistance to flexing i.e., the ability to withstand numerous flexing cycles without damage or deterioration. Better mouldability, it can be molded into a certain shape and then remolded into another shape later.  Permeability to water vapor i.e., enables leather to absorb water and perspiration.  Good thermostatic properties i.e. The leather is warm in winter and cool in summer. It is resistant to heat and fire. Leather provides good heat insulation.  The leather is resistant to abrasion in both wet and dry environments. This makes leather an excellent protector of skin.

 Corrected grain leather

 Resistant to Fire, fungi, and chemical attack.

 Split leather

Advantages of Leather

 Bicast leather

Leather is truly sustainable and natural fiber. Good leather ages well and can keep for long period. Leather is easy to repair and easy to maintenance. Leather products can be recycled and have natural comfort. Leather is more luxurious and have beautiful surface area. It has many ends uses as follows-

 Patent leather  Suede leather  Bonded leather Properties of Leather  Leather has High tensile strength i.e., cow leather is between 8 – 25 N / mm². Leather with higher fat content has a higher tear strength. But there

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Leather can be used as binder for finished books. It is often used to make clothing including pants, skirt, rain-

coats, and jackets. Leather has been used for all types of equestrian related products, including horse hoof boots. also, From fashionable winter gloves to durable work gloves. Fashionable footwear is one of the most common uses for leather, including boots, shoes, slippers, and more. Couches, chairs, recliners, and even automotive interiors are made from leather. Leather can be used for accessories like wristwatch straps, jewellery, belts, wallets, bags, and purses etc. Disadvantages Leather is more sensitive to fluctuations in temperature, where it can feel warmer in summer and cold in winter. When it comes to color and patterns, combinations of color and patterns are limited. It has main drawback i.e., producing leather requires animals to be killed. Conclusion This study gives us basic information of leather i.e., history, manufacturing process, applications, etc. Which shows leather is a natural, biodegradable fabric. It is made from tanning of animal skin. The rawhide and skin used for leather manufacturing is comes from, 99% of the raw hides and skins used in the production of leather derive from animals raised for meat and/or dairy production. Leather productions utilize non usable part of dead animals, so that there will no waste of animals. References 1. "Interesting Facts about Leather" https://www.decorium.com/tag/disadvantages-of-leather/ CalTrend. Retrieved 7 February 2018. 2. Applications https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Leather#Production_processes 3. Properties https://saddlesindia.com/properties-ofleather/ https://www.colourlock.com/blog/AdvantageLeather/ 4. Basic Information- Manufacturing process. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather

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BEING WHOLESOME PEARL BANSAL Textile Department, NIFT, Chennai Business, the top most global industry of the world, the Leather Working Group is working towards the usage of authentic ways to assure that the tanneries have a minimal effect on the ecosystem. But how can Leather become a wholesome material, wherein no wildlife is affected.

Abstract India being a developing nation, in terms of technology most specifically, textiles have taken a turn towards sustainability. The textile industries of India are more conscious about being environmentally friendly and conservation of their resources to fulfill their social commitment to a sustainable world. But are the textile industries being able to live up to terms of the word “sustainability?” The roadblock here is the term “leather.” As commonly known, leather is durable and luxurious. What makes it luxurious in the world is that it has extracted from the animal hides of alligators, crocodiles, reptiles, snakes, deers, pigs, lambs, cows, thus proving its authenticity. Leather is expensive and regarded as a biodegradable material, but what is the real cost we are soon gonna pay off for making luxurious leather products in the future? That question will be valid if there are going to be any animal left to derive leather from. Introduction With the inclination of the world’s textiles towards the factor “sustainability,” will the luxurious worth of the “leather” remain? There is a growth in the demand for leather as a material for the goods in the industry. Simultaneously, there are countries that, keeping the quality standards in mind, are also avoiding the use of harmful chemicals to produce more sustainable products of leather. In India, the leather industry is blooming, thus creating bright career options in the field of technology and designing areas. But again, the question arises, at what cost? At the cost of giving up on our ecosystem and wildlife? Is it even sustainable? No, it's not. After the leather is derived, it does

not remain eco-friendly due to the addition of chemicals; create pollutants and toxic waste. The natural breeding of animals gives out carbon emissions and pollutes the air soil and water. Thus, proving to be toxic for the whole ecosystem. It takes approximately 2025 years to decompose completely because of the tanning process done. The whole world is talking about turning into a vegan in terms of food, we are nearly neglecting the fact that we are using the non-vegan material “leather’” without looking for a suitable alternative for the same to maintain its value. Coming up with creative solutions for a problem is what sets a base for a person with a creative mind. Innovations are what defines new technologies. With these two factors going hand in hand, we are in the process to come with an answer to the question of how can “leather “as a material contribution in the terms of sustainability. The leather industry is enforcing laws for improved and sustainable solutions by investing in top tanneries. According to research by the Vogue

Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez used the “cactus plant” to grow in the Mexican state, to replace the hides of animals, known as Desserto. Cacti leather proves to be a vegan material which also will give a unique and ravishing look to the leather products. It was applauded for its durability, elasticity, brilliant texture, feel, color and softness. Thus acting as the best-suited replacement for a sustainable ecosystem. Mushrooms are nothing but an edible fungus called Phellinus ellipsoids, which surely grow in abundance. Leather is made from mushrooms is termed “Muskin,” made from the caps of mushrooms. The originator of the leather, Grado Zero, assures the usage of eco wax for the eco-friendly production of the products. This mushroom leather has a mutual benefit. How? It’s because these fungus feed in the tree trunks thus rotting them. Because these mushroom caps will be used, they will not only replace the animal leather but also ensure a healthy environment. Muskin is water-resistant, non-toxic, and durable for the products. Yet another popular vegan form of leather is pineapple, known as the Piñatex’s leather, made from the leaves of the fruit. It was discovered by the London-based company, Ananas Anam Ltd. The raw material of this leather is food waste. Pinatex leather creates a good opportunity for the farming com-

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munities, therefore a creative and sustainable byproduct. Conclusion Replacement of animal leather with more environmentally friendly leather material is the need today. Without wildlife being affected, it will lead us strictly on the path of sustainability and create something different and innovative which would boost up the industry of textiles in ay ways. It will also reduce pollution and toxicity as these environmental and vegan products will be the new base setters. It will also create farming opportunities for many people. Keeping up with the latest trend sustainability, will not

Due to recovery progress in the automotive sector, investments in nonwoven production lines for the manufacture of glass fibre-reinforced thermobonded structural parts for automotive interiors are being considered. DiloGroup has received a repeat order from Zhejiang Huajiang Science and Technology Co., Ltd. for a complete webforming and needling line to process blends of glass and polypropylene fibre through a state-of-the-art fibre preparation system, web-forming, carding and crosslapping and needling units. The fibre preparation system from DiloTemafa is adapted to the special requirements for processing glass fibre in the most efficient way and to provide homogeneous blends with PP. The component-dependent “Baltromix” blending system using highly precise weighing pans provides accurately dosed fibre material on the collecting apron, which is further opened and blended in a carding willow. This carding willow is used in most of DiloGroup complete line installations as a successful tool for further opening and blending tasks, in many cases together

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only be beneficial to those terms but will also prove to be of great success if the textiles designers take it forward. It’s not that there aren’t any alternatives or solutions to it. There are some which have been already discovered, but it’s on us, the And come up with these “go green” kinda, if we take u the idea of growing plants like cactus. By mending our ways of living a luxurious life, it will bring a healthy lifestyle for those poor animals from whom we take away their skin. The textile designers and those working on the technologies related to textiles, come together and find more ways to go fully eco-friendly in every possible way we can for the benefit of our future generation.

with a smaller chamber for final blending. In many installations DiloTemafa also provides the recycling of quality fibre derived from the whole process which is sucked off at many stations in the fibre preparation and web-forming system in order to save fibre material. Installations for fibre transport and for fibre recycling within a line together with re-opened edge trim material from a needling station and for dedusting the machines by a drum filter or bag filter station can be specifically engineered and designed by DiloGroup air system engineering department. The efficiency of a whole line processing mineral fibre largely depends on the efficiency in dedusting all machine components from bale opening through needling. Solutions for this demanding task are part of the expertise of DiloSystems as general contractor. At the card, the so-called “fancy roller” is part of the system to provide the means to build the web on this double-doffer system without leaving too much fibre within the card clothing wire. Dilo

References 1.

https://www.myklassroom.com/Engineering-branches/13/Leather-Technology

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industryarticle/7739/emerging-global-trends-inleather-and-fashion

https://healabel.com/l-fabrics-materialstextiles/leather

https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/green-sustainable-conscious-leather

https://mymodernmet.com/vegan-cactus-leather-desserto/

https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/sustainable-vegan-leather-alternatives

works closely together with a range of customers and card wire suppliers to provide an optimum wire system for processing the demanding range of mineral fibres successfully. In the needleloom this expertise to prolong the intervals for cleaning stops is vital to efficiency. Therefore, blowing nozzles to clean the perforated plates, stripper and bed plates, are installed within the needleloom. The dust exhaust is separated at a filter station. The majority of Dilo lines today include an elaborate air system and the necessary components for fibre transport, dust transport and the transport of recycled fibres which are introduced at the beginning of the line.

COVER STORY

LEATHER ANTIQUITY SAYALI GAIKWAD PG Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, SNDT Women’s University, Mumbai Leather is one of the most useful and earliest discoveries. It is stout and resilient material made from tanning animal rawhides and skins. Before man invented alphabets, they using simple sign language and drawing on skin of animals for communication. Later they used this skin for clothing and shelter. In cold climates, the fur which was on top of the leather provide extreme warmth and in hot climates hides help to stay cool. Later man found how they preserved their animal hides for little longer time with the help of sun drying, smoking and bark extracts. Some raw leather hides were left in water, with some bark of trees and leaves containing tannic acid. This is how the tanned leather was discovered. It is believed

tained in Ancient time, the quality of Roman sandals conveyed their class in the society. From the Ancient times till now leather artificers have used different techniques and tools to employ leather for various functional and creative purposes. Assyria natives used leather as containers to store liquids. Mongolians used leather for making leather cover, flasks masks, decorative caps. Sumerians in Mesopotamia used leather for

Modern technology has allowed innovations in the leather industry, as the development of chemicals, sophisticated equipments and processing methods have greatly expanded the aesthetic and leather feel as well as potential applications. Lather is the material of choice, not only for commercial but and also for aviation, marine and automobile applications. Figure 2. Egyptian Wall Painting

dress and diadems for ladies. Figure 1. Leather Tanning Process in Early 90s

that ancient Greek developed this process around 500 BC. The process continued in Greece and elsewhere. Use of Leather in different civilizations There were different types of products and leather works in different civilizations. Through the wall painting and arts in Egyptian tombs dating around 5000 BC it has been proved that leather was used for making boots, clothing, military equipment and for storage. For shields, armours, clothing and harnesses, Romans made extensive use of leather. They also used leather as ob-

with a fashionable look, and the general increase in life expectancy led to the demand for durable, soft, supple, colourful leather. Traditional vegetable tanned leather was too stiff and thick for this need and thus the use of chromium salt was adopted and chrome tanning become the standard for footwear, fashion and upholstery leather. Cattle hide is a most common raw material. Leather is utilized for making attire, footwear, sacks, car seats, bookbinding, design adornments and furniture.

Artificers who produced these products belonged to leather guildsmen, who secretly guarded their leather crafting skills and managing it down from father to son. In the middle ages, leather become a proffered cover for dining chairs, as they were easy to maintain and did not absorb food odours. In the 16th century when cortex took control on Mexico, leather craftmanship was expoesed to the world. The spread of industrialization in the 18th and 19th centuries led to the demand for new types of leathers, such as belt leather to operate the mechanical systems. The invention of automobile, the demand for soft, lightweight footwear

Reference 1.https://www.mooreandgiles.com/ leather/resources/history/#:~:text=Our%20 ancestors%20used%20leather%20 to,crude%20tents%20from%20the%20 hides.&text=The%20ancient%20Greeks%20 are%20credited,water%20to%20preserve%20the%20leather. 2.https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/ history-of-leather/#:~:text=The%20history%20 of%20leather%20began,Revolution%2C%20 and%20into%20modern%20times. 3.https://www.gulmoharlane.com/blog/ leather-history-and-tradition 4.Figure 1: https://www.gulmoharlane.com/ blog/leather-history-and-tradition 5.Figure 2: https://www.theinternationalman.com/accessories/leather-goods.php

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COVER STORY

LEATHER PROCESSING VAIBHAVI KOKANE Textile Value Chain

Introduction In the strictest sense of the term, the ‘Leather Industry’ covers the preserving of the rawhide after the slaughterhouse and the tanneries which process the raw skins into durable leathers. India is the second-largest producer of footwear in the world. In India, there is a high earning foreign exchange and in leather is in the top 10 sectors. Why the leather industry is in the top 10 sectors? World’s 20% cattle production happens in only India, which means India is producing maximum raw material and in India there is maximum skill manpower, and using upgrade technology, international standard, etc. And that is the reason for India's share increases in competition. Process of Tanning: The flowchart below shows the complex process of Tanning Leather Procuring animal skin

By Salting: Animal Skin is composed of 60-65 % water, 30-32 % protein, approximately 10 % fat, and 0.5 – 1 % minerals. It prevents putrefaction of the protein (collagen) from bacterial growth. Salt removes water from the hides and skins using a difference in osmotic pressure. In wet salting, the hides are heavily salted, then pressed into packs for about 30 days. In brinecuring, the hides are agitated in a saltwater bath for about 16 hours. Curing can also be accomplished by preserving the hides and skins at very low temperatures. Pre-tanning or bean house operations Soaking: The skins are de-haired, degreased desalted, and soaked in water for six hours to two days. To prevent damage of the skin by bacterial growth during the soaking period, biocides such as dithiocarbonates, 2 –thiocyanates, Ethylbenzothiazoline, etc. To protect wet leathers from microbial growth. Liming: After soaking the hides are treated with milk of lime supplemented by sodium sulphide, cyanides, amines, etc.

Procuring animal skin: The animal is killed and skinned before the body heat leaves the tissues.

Unhairing and Scudding: Unhairing agents are used such as sodium hydroxide, sodium hydrosulphide, calcium hydrosulphide Dimethylamine, and sodium sulfhydrate. Most of the hair is then removed mechanically, initially with a machine and then by hand using a dull knife a process known as scudding.

Curing is the preservation of hides. Curing can be performed in different ways.

Deliming and Bating: Depending on the end-use of the leather, hides are treated with enzymes to soften them,

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a process called bating. Enzymes act properly so the pH of the collagen is brought down to a lower level so the enzymes may act on it, in a process known as deliming. Pickling: Once bating is complete, the hides and skins are treated first with common salt (sodium chloride) and then with sulphuric acid in case a mineral tanning is to be done. This process is known as Pickling. The salt penetrates the hide twice as fast as the acid and checks the ill effect of the sudden drop of PH. Chrome Tanning: Chromium(ll) sulphate and sodium bicarbonate (base) are added to this process. Chromium(ll) sulphate is used as a tanning agent. Chromium(ll) sulphate dissolves to give the hexaaquahromium (ll) cation, which at higher pH undergoes processes called olation to give polychromies(ll) compounds that are active in tanning, being the cross-linking of the collagen subunits. The cross-linkage of chromium ions with free carboxyl groups in the collagen. It makes the hide resistant to bacteria and high temperature. The chromium-tanned hide contains about 2-3% by dry weight of Cr Vegetable Tanning: Hides are kept immersed in Tannin liquor for several weeks in series of vats with increasing concentration of tannins. Tannins bind to the collagen proteins in the hide and coat them, causing them to become less water-soluble and more resistant to bacterial attack. The process also causes the hide to become more flexible. The vegetable-tanned hide is not very flexible. It is used for luggage, furniture, footwear, belts, and other clothing accessories.

COVER STORY

GLOBAL LEATHER MACHINERY EXPORT HIT HARD BY COVID-19 PANDEMIC Textile Value Chain Leather manufacturing had always been a procedure which was performed manually with the help of tools. In the recent years, machinery has taken over the leather manufacturing industry. Leather machinery is taking over the leather production industry due to its recent advances that reduce time, cost and manpower required for leather production. The coronavirus pandemic had a lot of adverse effect on the global textile industry. Leather machinery exports witness this impact globally. A subsequent decrease was witnessed in the export of leather machinery in the year 2020 due to the pandemic. China was the leading exporter of the leather machinery in the year 2019 as well as 2020. Its export was worth 527 million dollars in the year 2019. The export dropped drastically in the year 2020 due to the covid-19 pandemic. Though a reduction in the export was witnessed, China’s global share in leather machinery export climbed up from 39% in 2019 to 41% in 2020. Italy was the second largest exporter of leather machinery in 2019 and 2020 with the export worth 394 million dollars and 272 million dollars. Records suggest that it was the top exporter for the past 3 years from 2016-2018 but China’s export drastically increased in 2019, while Italy’s export dropped dramatically. Its share in the global export of leather machinery in the year 2020 was 32%. Due to the covid-19 pandemic, almost all the nation’s exports dwindled in 2020. Taiwan’s export of leather machinery was one $28 million in the year 2019 due to the pandemic its export decreased to $76 million in 2020. Not only the exports but even its global share fell from 10% to 9% in the year 2020. Turkey's contribution was worth 1% in the global share of leather machinery

export. Turkey's global share remains same in both the years. Its export was worth 11 million Dollars in the year 2019. These exports drastically shrinked to $5 million in the year 2020. USA was surprisingly not among the top exporters of leather machinery. Its export was worth $15 million and $10 million in the year 2019 and 2020, respectively. Its contribution was 1% in both years to global share. France was the only nation that witnessed a hike in export in the year 2020. Its export was worth $19 million in 2019, in 2020 its export increased to $19.6 million. Its contribution to the global share was one person in the year 2019. There was a subsequent increase in its global share in 2020 which was 2%. Korea's export was worth $87 million in the year 2019. There was a dramatic decrease in its export in the year 2020

due to the pandemic. Korea's export fell to $46 million in the year 2020. Its global share was 7% in the year 2019. There was a decrease in its global share in the year 2020. Its global share was 6% in the year 2020. Germany's export was worth $54 million in the year 2019. Like other nations Germany also witnessed decrease in its export in the year 2020 due to the pandemic. Its export was worth $46 million in 2020. despite the decrease in the export in the year 2020 Germany witnessed a hike in its global share from 4% in 2019 to 6% in 2020. Hong Kong exported the leather machinery's worth $19 million in the year 2019. Its export dwindled to $8 million in the year 2020 due to the pandemic. Its global share remained 1% in both the years for the same. Though Spain was among the top ten exporters of leather machinery, its export was word $13 million only in the year 2019. Its export filled two $9 million from$13 million in the earlier year in the year 2020 due to the pandemic. Its global share remained 1% in both the years for leather machinery export. The export done by other countries was worth $83 million which was even less than Korea in the year 2019. This export fell drastically two $55 million in the year 2020 due to the pandemic.

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CAREER GUIDANCE

ELEVATING YOUR CAREER IN LEATHER DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY NALANDA GADEY Founder, Flyy Hiigh Consultancy

Today Laether jackets, belts, shoes, bags, and other accessories are a part of everyday life. Leather is a natural longlasting product. Various products such as leather shoes, leather car interiors, leather furniture, leather handbags, leather bags, leather wallets, leather clothes (leather pants, jackets, gloves, and belts), leather balls, leather, etc. are available. Consistent with adaptability to some items such as strips and toys, interiors, luggage, musical instruments, clothing tags, gift items, etc. In addition to being used in practical use, leather has been widely used in the arts field. Leather has transformed into decoration, painting and art. The ability of leather workers to turn leather into beautiful usable ones is, in itself, an art form. However, there are many other hand artists who make art using leather in different ways. Indian Leather Market India ranks fourth among the top ten leather producing countries in 2020. The second largest producer of leather products in the world. The second largest exporter of leather goods in the world. The third largest exporter of harnesses and harnesses. Ranks fifth among the world’s largest exporters of leather products and accessories. Raw materials are readily available: India has 20% of the world’s cattle and buffalo and 11% of the world’s goats. In recent years, car, furniture, and aircraft upholstery companies are demanding fine, gravel-free flat grain leather for maximum cutting value. Chemically treated leather, leather, and leather are suitable for storing them and for use as clothing, shoes, handbags, fur-

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of Fashion Designing. Leather bags, shoes and belts in India are in high demand in India and the international market. As a result, they are widely exported. Designing leather products is a daunting task, and anyone trying to do so need to know these facts. One of the most dynamic and demanding tasks is today’s leather technology and leather design. It has an immediate lucrative career path. Looking for Career in Leather – Required Skills

niture, tools, and sporting goods. The main markets for Indian leather is the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, Italy, and France. Career and Scope The use of leather in our daily life has exposed us to great career opportunities in design and monetization in the field of technology. Artificial leather approaches the look and durability of leather at a low cost and its production is not much more labour intensive. Leather Technology makes good use of leather in the engineering field dealing with leather production, refining and synthesis. It also describes the synthetic and effective application of synthetic leather in commercial production. Leather Designing is one of the fastest growing areas in India and is part

Depending on your interests and aptitudes, you can pursue design or enter the field of production as a career. Creativity and a sense of colour, texture, and patterns are required for designing skills, while on the other hand strong numerical skills and knowledge of computer-aided design software. Problem Solving Skills, Communication Ideas, Creative Approach Dedication and Enthusiasm, Entrepreneur skills are also required. Availability of Courses in this sector Some Colleges and Universities offer a variety of courses, including Certificate programs (3 months to 1 year), Diploma programs (3 years), Bachelor of Technology/Bachelor of Design (4 years), and Master of Engineering (2 years); both in India and abroad countries. Few courses are enlisted below. Courses in Leather Technology available in India Leather technology is one of the grow-

CAREER GUIDANCE ing fields of textile technology. India has number of courses that are willing to offer some interesting options to the students choosing leather technology as a career path, including: 1. Certificate Course Footwear making Skill Training

7. Bachelor of Design (B. Des) in Crafts & Design- Soft Material Design

7. Hamstech Institute of Fashion & Interior Design, Hyderabad

8. PG Diploma in Leather Design

8. B D Somani Institute of Art and Fashion Technology, Mumbai

Indian Colleges offering Technology Courses

Leather

Footwear Design are offered by 7 Institutions Abroad

3. Certificate Course Shoe CAD Design training

The Indian leather industry has seen a steady increase in exports. Want to pursue a career as a passion for leather design / leather technology? See a list of several Universities where you can start your career advancement.

4. Certificate Course Goods & Garments CAD Design Training

1. HBTU Kanpur - Harcourt Butler Technical University

1. Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology University, Australia

5. Diploma in Leather Technology

2. Dayalbagh Educational Institute, Agra

2. University of the Arts London, UK

3. Aligarh Muslim University, Aligarh

4. Lasalle College, Canada

2. Certificate Course Leather Goods & Garments Making skill training

6. Diploma in Leather & Fashion Technology (specialisation in Computer Aided Shoe Design / Tanning) 7. Diploma in Leather Goods and Footwear Technology 8. B. Tech Leather Technology

4. Government Polytechnic, Mumbai 5. Muzaffarpur Institute of Technology, Muzaffarpur

9. B. Tech Footwear Technology

6. Alagappa College of Technology, Chennai

10. M. Tech Footwear Engineering and Management

7. CSIR Central Leather Research Institute, Chennai

11. M. Tech Footwear Science and Engineering

8. CMJ University, Shillong

12. M. Tech Leather Technology 13. Ph.D. (Footwear Science & Engineering) Courses in Leather Design available in India Leather design is one of the fastest growing areas of textile design. There are a great variety of processes that can be offered to students exploring leather design in their careers in India:

9. Government College of Engineering and Leather Technology (GCELT), Kolkata 10. Kashmir Government Polytechnic College, Srinagar Indian Colleges Offering Leather Design In the field of leather designing, there are many Universities that introduce students to world of leather design, including:

1. Certificate Course in Leather Designing

1. National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, Delhi, Mumbai

2. Certificate Course in Accessories Design

2. Footwear Design and Development Institute, Noida, Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata

3. Certificate course in Footwear Design 4. Diploma in Footwear Manufacture and Design 5. B. Des. (Leather Goods & Accessories Design) 6. Bachelor of Design (B. Des) in Leather Design

3. Government College of Engineering and Leather Technology, Kolkata 4. Karnataka Institute of Leather Technology, Karnataka 5. Central Footwear Training Institute, Chennai, Agra 6. Parul Institute, Vadodara

Footwear are the most in demand, so there are many students trying to learn Footwear design. There are many universities around the world that offer courses in this area. These are:

3. De Montfort University, UK 5. Leicester College, UK 6. Textile and Fashion Industry Training Centre, Singapore Career Opportunities Leather Technology and Design India, a major exporter of leather goods, has many exporters that employ technical and non-technical personnel. Leather engineers with innovative ideas and the ability to transform these ideas into shapes can find rewarding jobs in the leather industry. Designers can work with existing designers, manufacturers, boutiques and more in the industry. Through two years of work experience, students can set up their own production and / or marketing unit for leather-related products. Education in Leather Technology may pave the way to becoming a Production Manager Research Associate, Project Support, CAD Designer, Quality Inspector, Line Manager, Marketing & Sales or even a Technical Designer The leather design course can be moved to the top node of career as a designer, trend/fashion forecast, trade analyst, trader, marketing and sales, export trader style designer or stitchery (leather and apparel). This field is still growing, and since salaries vary depending upon job demand and many other factors, determining the exact salary can be a bit difficult for this exercise.

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EDUCATION

FUTURE OF DESIGN EDUCATION CHALLENGING BUT WORTHWHILE... SONALI BRID Assistant Professor, ITM/ IDM

Design education relates to the broad range of disciplines providing the platform for building skills sets, professionalism and molding them to set the stage for future development. Design institutes have set a platform working collaboratively to develop design minds and practicing soft skills. Academicians understand the role of a designer which necessitates design thinking, leading them to innovative practice and successful delivery. In today’s world design learning has not limited to traditional curriculum. It is beyond the mastering of tools and technology. More about a deeper understanding of new concepts which are visually stimulating, technologically challenging, and sustainable. The unexpected transition to the digital platform needed a no-break continuation in a limited period, but it was a realization stage for self-development and upgradation. Many short-duration online learning programs appeared focusing on specialized topics and skillbuilding. This has given global access to specialized courses which even educators were dreaming to opt. Design institutes now have to revise their strategy assuring that they are delivering an uncompromised syllabus with globally recognized challenges. Truly it is a challenging phase for design educators to tackle emerging problems during the pandemic. Students are missing their big classrooms, huge resources, happening campus life, and exciting design culture. The sudden transition phase of virtual classrooms with limited or no resources have

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questioned the effectiveness of the program to some extent. On the other hand, these digital classrooms have also boosted experimentation and exploration which is an integral part of some design courses like fashion and communication. These design fields have no set path and can follow multiple pathways. Challenges were set following current industrial needs and complications to achieve despite several conditions. Moving forward with uncertainty design education can be more effective and experiential with cross-disciplinary challenges. Program delivery can be broader than the routine curriculum as well as effectively contributing to design learning. The next thing in design education is a modern learning approach with a variety of pedagogies, a lot of formal and informal discussions debates, and quiz with mentors. The more challenging task needs to be set with self-initiated explorative learning. The research phase can be broader by opting for alternative techniques. An elaborate conceptual stage can be explored considering the efficiency of design. Technical learning can have a lot of planned and pre-recorded demos but challenging activities which can be more flexible and experiential. Students can be given access to other digital resources like Journals, publications, or digital libraries. There can

be more worldwide guest interactions which can expand student’s thinking and design perspective. Channelized company tie-ups can be initiated to pull in employment opportunities not bothering about the duration of employment because these industry briefs will have a positive impact and can give more hands-on experience which is beyond studio classes. Many can focus on studio learning practices and the process of making will need mentoring and assistance with some offline interactions. Specialized facilities can slowly be resume back with socially distance learning. Students can take advantage of the digitally available resources which can be accessed anytime from anywhere in the world. There can be a lot of interactions exchanging social thoughts and views regarding ethical practices. One has seen the benefit of Digital classroom interactions which has enabled students to get well versed with virtual space. Different presentation platforms can be opted by both students and tutors. Optimistic feedback and critique sessions can be practiced often for project building and development. Assignments can be evaluated based on the risk taken and creative thoughts behind them. Imagining the long-term effect of this pandemic the future learning is going to be remote learning to some extent but will be more organized enjoyable with your pace courses. Overall, there is a new opportunity to create an educational experience with hybrid learning.

HR FOCUS

EMPATHY – A LESS VALUED LEADERSHIP COMPETENCY RAJIV MISRA R Square Consulting

Recently while reading an article, I underwent multiple emotions from disbelief to shock and finally to disgust. The article narrated the story of a company that sent a communication to a few hundred employees to attend an online talk on Covid 19. When the employees logged in, they could see a slide that simply read “Covid 19”. After 15 mins a junior member of the HR team logged in and said one sentence- “Due to Covid 19 you are fired” and logged off the call. I tried to put myself in the employees’ shoes and gauge the emotions which could be going through their minds during the wait and post the one-sentence firing. From despondency to depression, all of us have been in the grip of a range of emotions over the last year that has led us to be emotionally and psychologically drained. Whether it is anxiety about the present and future income or about how our loved ones are going to be impacted by the pandemic there is an undercurrent of uneasiness in the environment which is palpable. As human beings, we crave certainty and order in our lives, which mostly leads to our need for more and more information. To be asked to leave their jobs without any information about notice period details, severance pay, outplacement support, or benefits continuation must have been like being set adrift in a stormy sea with no lifejacket. The way the company chose to communicate this news through a junior HR team member said much more about the leadership of the company than its website, the vision document, or the values described in the employee handbook.

cut the workforce. So here are few suggestions on what the leader should do: •

Leadership is what is experienced by others and not what is talked about in various company documents.

The first thing is to communicate transparently. Let the employees know the real situation and as far as cash flows are concerned and try to find a solution jointly. In case, you feel that the junior members of the team lack the maturity to contribute to the decision-making, call the mid and senior-level employees for this session.

•

The incident made it clear that the company leadership lacked empathy, a critical, but oft undervalued competency.

Look at layoffs as the last option. Is it possible to cut pay by 30% rather than asking 30% of the team to leave?

•

If lay-offs must be done, the senior-most leader in the company should make the communication. Give reasons, provide information about notice period, severance pay, possible time by when re-hire may be possible, outplacement support, etc. Please take their questions and answer them to the best of your ability. If people get abusive or vent, have the humility to accept that without showing any anger or discomfort.

My discomfort was less with the decision of asking people to leave and more with the way it was done, with no respect shown to employees. We often come across a notion that a Leader can rally people around with charisma and drive. Empathy is not something that comes to our mind when we think of leaders. However, I feel that it is the most critical competency to be a great leader as leadership is about leading people and you cannot lead people if you do not understand what they are feeling and going through. It is a tough time for business and tough decisions need to be taken. So, if a tough decision means that a leader must ask people to leave, then it needs to be done. The question is, how do you communicate this decision to the affected team member? As business owners, many of my SME clients have sought my suggestion on how to handle a situation of having to

I was told a long time back by my senior in the army “People don’t remember what you told them, but they never forget how you made them feel”. If you as a leader make the people feel humiliated, small, and not valued, they will remember it for the rest of their lives. And they will talk about it to friends, acquaintances, and anyone who would care to listen. And in today’s hyperconnected world, they would also post it on social media, making an irreparable dent in your reputation as a Leader

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HR FOCUS

and along with it long-term damage to the ability of your organization to attract talent in the future. As business leaders, as we go through these tough

times, in addition to all the other leadership competencies which you will have to exhibit to get your company and your people through, it may be

prudent to focus much more on Empathy, to ensure that the people in your organization experience you as a humane and caring leader.

LEATHER FUNDAMENTALS

FACTS

Leather is a long-lasting and flexible material made by tanning animal hides and skins. Cattle hide is the most used raw material. It can be manufactured on a variety of scales, from artisan to modern industrial. Leather production has been going on for over 7,000 years;[1] the earliest record of leather artefacts dates to 2200 BCE. Top Grain Leather The top layer of a hide is known as top grain leather. The leather hide is mechanically split into layers after it has been tanned but before it is finished. Top Grain is tough and long-lasting, with the "hallmarks of the road" like wrinkles, scars, bug bites, and other natural characteristics. The best portion of the hide is the top grain. The Split Hide is separated from the Top Grain and is used to manufacture suede and other leather products. Splits aren't as strong as Top Grain leather and aren't as excellent in quality. They're more prone to fading, stretching, and tearing. Split hides are used by some furniture producers on the sides and backs of furniture, where the customer is unlikely to touch or sit. Full Grain and Corrected Grain Leathe Full Grain leather is top grain leather that hasn't been buffed or polished, preserving the natural texture and grain. The trail's signatures, or markings, will stay on the hide. Stretch marks, scars, branding, bug bites, and other imperfections may be evident. The leather's original appearance and feel are kept. Most natural markings are lightly rubbed or sanded out with Corrected Grain leathers, and an artificial yet realistic-looking grain is embossed on the hide. Top grain leathers that have been corrected are still top grain leathers. They've been redesigned to have a more uniform feel and hue.

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Leather for furniture Only about a third of the world's hides are appropriate for furniture upholstery. Just around 5% of the supply matches the aesthetic characteristics necessary, thus whole hides with only minor flaws are necessary. While hides that will be chopped into smaller pieces and used for belts, shoes, and small leather products can have some natural markings and scars, hides that will be used for furniture must be more flawless. Because automotive leather hides must undergo considerable processing in order to meet durability and severe wear requirements, they are not as rare or valuable as hides used to produce sofas, loveseats, and chairs. Pure aniline, full grain semi aniline, or corrected/embossed leather is required for furniture. Types of Leather Aniline This is the most "organic" and "natural" sort of leather. This leather, also known as Pure Aniline or Full Aniline, has no protective covering. It hasn't been handled or processed in any way to change the natural grain, appearance, or feel of the hide. The most luxuriously soft feel of all the leather varieties is aniline, but it is more prone to fading, staining, and soiling. This is a good type of leather for someone who enjoys the smooth, natural feel of leather but also appreciates and values the distinctive natural markings. It's reasonable to assume that the furniture will only see light to moderate use. Semi-Aniline Although not as pure and natural as aniline leather, this type of leather has some of the same properties. Following aniline dyeing, the hides are sprayed or rubbed with a protective topcoat. To produce a two-tone or other effect, an additional color may be used as well. As with aniline leather, certain natural

markings may show through the topcoat, making wrinkles, scars, and bites obvious. While semi-aniline leather is more protected than pure aniline leather and the color will likely be more uniform, it is still susceptible to fading, staining, and other problems. This is a fantastic sort of leather for a consumer who wants natural leather's suppleness and texture but will use the furniture frequently. Pigmented This is the toughest leather, but it isn't the most natural. Because the natural markings have usually been sanded or buffed away, this is the case. The hide is then embossed with an artificial grain. As a result, the grain and colouring are consistent, which some buyers prefer. In addition, a protective topcoat with colour is usually sprayed or rubbed into the surface. Adding this layer usually takes away part of the leather's natural softness and breathability. The colour of Pigmented leather may not be as deep and rich as Aniline leather, and it may not have the same sumptuous hand, but it is the most durable and cleanable. This is a good sort of leather for someone who is ready to forego some softness and natural texture in exchange for more functionality. Nubuck Nubuck is a soft, rich top grain leather with a small nap that has been softly buffed or sanded to give it a suede-like look. It's worth noting, though, that Nubuck is a top grain leather, which means it's more durable and high-quality than suede. Nubuck leather is a quality, natural substance that typically lacks a protective finish. It's prone to fading and smudging. This is a good sort of leather for someone looking for a one-of-a-kind, trendy, and really comfy leather that demands a little additional care and maintenance.

PEER REVIEW PAPER

REJUVENATING FOLK PAINTINGS ON TEXTILE PRODUCTS: A REVIEW NIKITA SACHWANI Guest Faculty, Department of Garment Production and Export Management, Government Arts Girls College, Kota Abstract India is a diverse country with a vast range of art forms and cultures which serve as a unique identification for the area of their origin. These together contribute to the rich heritage of this country. This study titled “Rejuvenating Folk Paintings on Textile Products: A Review” is an attempt to bring together various efforts made by entrepreneurs, researchers, academic institutes, designers, organizations and craftsmen of this country to bring back Indian folk painting to life through their application on textiles/ textile products. Work done during the last five years (2016-2020) has been reviewed and discussed. The aim of this study is to help and provide necessary inputs related to past work done in this field. This is expected to be beneficial for textile revivalists, designers, students and all those who are working or are willing to work for the revival of folk paintings of India by applying them on different media and product diversification. Keywords: Heritage, rejuvenating, craftsmen, product diversification, designers, entrepreneurs. Introduction India is a land of diversity, a fact that is blatantly visible in people, culture, and climate of this nation. “This country has hundreds of ethnic groups scattered from north to south and east to west, each with its own art form representing its taste, needs, aspirations, aims, joys, sorrows and struggles”. “With regional peculiarities, nature around and a different pattern of daytoday life apart, their art reveals each group’s ethnic distinction and creative talent” [1]. Along with adding richness

to heritage of India, these art forms have fascinated people all over the world. Warli Paintings of Maharashtra are creative expression of the women of a tribe known as Warli. The name of this painting is dedicated to this tribe. These paintings are a picturization of daily life. Scenes in these paintings include animals, birds, humans in their daily activities, celebrations, hunting etc. These paintings are expressed by these words- “Painted white on mud walls, they are pretty close to pre-historic cave paintings in execution and usually depict scenes of human figures” [2]. Another bold and colourful expression of the feminine creativity is the Madhubani Painting of Bihar which is also named as of Mithila Art due to its roots in the Mithila region of Bihar. Originally painted on mud walls, motifs of hindu deities like Devi Durga, Devi Saraswati and Lakshmi, Lord Shiva, Krishna, Tulsi plant, Moon and Sun, wedding processions and rituals etc. are depicted using mineral pigment colours. Geometric shapes eg: fine lines are used for the purpose of filling. Aipan paintings of Kumaon region is a ritualistic folk art, is believed to provide protection from the evil. Events like festivals, auspicious occasions and even death rituals are prominently expressed in white colour (cooked rice paste) in this painting. Floor and walls of the houses serve as the canvas for this art. Red ochre mud called ‘Geru’ in local language is coated to provide a background. Phad painting of Rajasthan is done on cloth depicting local deities and sto-

ries, and the legends of local rulers. It is a type of scroll painting made using bright and subtle colours. The outline of paintings are first drawn using blocks and later on filled with colours. These paintings are often carried from place to place by the traditional singers, who narrate the various themes depicted on scrolls. Along with Phad, Rajasthan is also known for its elaborate, highly intricate and refined, Pichwai paintings. They are used as backdrops in the famous Shrinathji Temple at Nathdwara. Their main theme is Shrinathji and his miraculous stories [3]. Gond community is famous for their unique style of painting which is famous by the name of Gond paintings. These paintings feature the relation of nature and its connection to humans on the walls and floors of the buildings of this tribe. “It is done with the construction and re- construction of each and every house, with local colors and materials like charcoal, coloured soil, plant sap, leaves, cow dung, limestone powder, etc. The images are tattoos or minimalist human and animal forms” [4] [5]. According to the beliefs of the tribal people, these paintings attract good luck, so they used to paint these on their walls and floors. This artwork was also very skilfully used by the Gond tribe to record their history. Rogan Paintings, an art form used for painting textiles in the Kutch district (Gujarat), declined in the latter half of the 20th century. This is now mastered and practiced by only 2 families of Kutch. “In this craft, paint made from boiled oil and vegetable dyes is laid down on fabric using either a metal block (printing) or a stylus (painting)”[6].

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The Mandana paintings are connected to the Hadoti area of Rajasthan and that too with the Meena community residing in this area. This painting work is executed by the women of this community on floor and walls. According to the beliefs of this community, Mandana paintings provide protection to their homes. For this kind of paintings, limestone powder or chalk powder is used as a painting medium. The ground is prepared by applying a mixture of cow dung, geru and a clay called rati. For painting, a date stick, a small cluster of hair or a piece of cotton fabric is used as a tool. Figures of women at work, lord Ganesha, birds and animals like peacock and tiger respectively, floral motifs etc. can be noticed in Mandana paintings. [7] The Saura tribe belonging to Orissa state are known for their wall paintings based on spiritual and ceremonial themes. “A study of their art and painting tradition reveals the rich ancient tribal art idiom, which is still in vogue with popular appeal” [8]. These paintings appear somewhat like warli paintings and are given the name- ‘Ikons’. In these paintings, motifs like moon and sun, tree of life, animals like horses,

elephants and also humans are found painted using natural colours prepared using white stone, earth, flower and leaf extracts. With advancement in time, growing industrialization and modernization there has been a rise in preference for mass produced, machine made articles which has posed a threat to our traditional crafts and has raised concern in the country to preserve, sustain and cultivate our traditional assets so that they sustain the wave of modernization and remain available to the future generations. For this purpose, folk paintings can be applied on textile products which are an integral part of our life. These products range from small articles like handkerchiefs, purse and pouches, bags, clothing, up to large articles like bed covers and draperies. In this way these paintings can become a part of our daily lives resulting in their revival and growth. The objective of this paper is to present a review of 5 works published during each of the past five years (2016-2020) respectively which aim at reviving Indian folk paintings through their application on textiles / apparel / lifestyle accessories. Table-1: YEAR- 2016

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Material and Methods This review paper is based on secondary sources. Extensive literature review was carried out to obtain elaborate information about various attempts made to apply folk paintings of India on textiles for the purpose of their revival; within the span of past five years (2016-2020). Online research databases namely Academia, Researchgate, Krishikosh e-granth, Shodhganga, Google Scholar have been used to access research papers, review papers, conference proceedings, Ph. D/ Dissertation thesis and other related text. In addition to this books, newspaper articles, reports from government and national institutes, websites have also been accessed online. Keywords such as ‘Folk paintings of India’, ‘Intervention in folk art for application on textiles’, ‘Apparel for craft revival’ etc. have been used. The total works studied were categorized with reference to their publication year and five works from each year starting from 2016 to 2020 were selected for review. Discussion This section has been discussed in 5 parts on the basis of the year of publication of the respective studies.

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Table-2: YEAR 2017

Table-3: YEAR- 2018

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PEER REVIEW PAPER Table-4: YEAR 2019

Table-5: YEAR- 2020

Conclusion The rich cultural heritage of India must be protected and made to flourish. Various folk paintings of India and their revival has been presented through this paper. Both traditional and modern methods have been used for revival of paintings as discussed in this paper. Some experts do not consider using modern processes like screen printing, digital printing as suitable majorly because of two reasons. First reason is that traditionally folk arts were ecofriendly and using modern

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methods violates this spirit and the second reason is that mass production of these folk arts will cause distortions in these art forms which will lead to loss of originality with time. After going through the works done for revival of folk paintings on textiles/ textile products, the researcher feels that a blended approach is the need of this hour. Neither manual nor modern industrial methods can alone complete the task. Along with this a combined effort of government and the citizens is required. We as citizens must be aware

of our responsibility towards the rich heritage. This study will provide helpful inputs about the past works for the upcoming efforts in this field so that so that, these arts they see the light of the future. Reference 1. Folk and Tribal Paintings: The Warli School - Academy of Fine Arts and Literature Google Arts & Culture. (n.d.). Retrieved from: https://artsandculture.google.com/ exhibit/folk-and-tribal-paintings-the-warlischool-academy-of-fine-arts-and-literature/

PEER REVIEW PAPER yQJirm46EdNXKA?hl=en. 2. Culture and heritage - folk and tribal art warli folk painting. (n.d.). Retrieved April 21, 2021, from https://knowindia.gov.in/cultureand-heritage/folk-and-tribal-art/warli-folkpainting.php 3. Nayanathara, S. (2006). A Glimpse of Traditional Indian Paintings. In The World of Indian Murals and Paintings (p. 15). ChilliBreeze. Retrieved April 16, 2021, from https://www. google.co.in/books/edition/Indian_Murals_ and_Paintings/FbVe7pZ6GEIC?hl=en&gbpv =1&dq=about+Kalamkari+painting&pg=PT1 4&printsec=frontcover. 4. Gond paintings. (n.d.). Retrieved April 14, 2021, from https://indianculture.gov.in/ paintings/gond-paintings 5. M. (2021, February 15). Gond painting. Retrieved April 02, 2021, from https:// amounee.com/product/gond-painting3/?v=4cd05540c260 6. Rogan painting. (n.d.). Retrieved April 06, 2021, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogan_painting 7. Mandana paintings. (n.d.). Retrieved April 06, 2021, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Mandana_Paintings 8. Baral, B., Divyadarshan, C., & Sharma, A. (2018, October 21). Saura Painting Raghurajpur, Orissa. Retrieved April 07, 2021, from www.dsource.in/resource/saura-painting-raghurajpur-orissa/introduction. 9. Sharma, E. (2016). Digitalization of Motifs Based on Indian folk Paintings through CAD and their Adaptation on Apparels using Digital Printing Technique. Research Journal of Family, Community and Consumer Sciences, 4(1). 10. Gupta, M., & Gangwar, S. (2016). Adaptaion of Designs for Textile Products Inspired from Madhubani Painting. International Journal of Research- Granthalaayah, 4(5). 11. Negi, M., Rani, A., Bala, R., & Singh, A. (2017). New perspective in textile designing with aipan design through tie and dye technique. In A treatise on Recent Trends and Sustainability in Crafts & Design (pp. 113117). New Delhi: Excel Publications. 12. Webdesk, Free Press Journal. (2016, August 26). Lakmé fashion Week Winter/festive 2016- day 3. Retrieved April 01, 2021, from https://www.freepressjournal.in/cmcm/ lakme-fashion-week-winterfestive-2016-day3#:~:text=Divya%20Sheth's%20%E2%80%9C

Nijmandir%E2%80%9D,printed%20motifs%20 on%20the%20garments. 13. Online, Indain Express. (2016, August 30). The best oF Lakme Fashion Week Winter/festive 2016, see pics. Retrieved April 09, 2021, from https://indianexpress.com/ photos/lifestyle-gallery/shilpa-shetty-kareena-kapoor-prachi-desai-jacqueline-fernandez-best-of-lakme-fashion-week-2016-seepics-3004141/13/ 14. Saxena, A. (2017). An Account Of Dots And Lines - The Gond Tribal Art Of Madhya Pradesh, Their Tradition, Relevance And Sustainability In Contemporary Design Domain. Indian Journal of Current Research, 9(1), 61128-61135. 15. Bora, S., & S. (2017). Designing of apparel using traditional gond painting motif. International Journal of Home Science, 3(1), 304-309. 16. Shwetha, R. G. (2017). Revival and Application of Rogan Painting on Waterproof Reversible Denim Jackets. International Journal of Creative Research Thoughts, 5(4), 1890-1905.

i8v2.03 21. Ghosh, S. (2018). Retracing Kalamkari’s journey: From classic to a contemporary textile art. The Chitrolekha Journal on Art and Design, 2(2), 4-28. doi:https://dx.doi. org/10.21659/cjad.22.v2n201 22. Saikrishnan, A. N., & Chandrashekaran, V. (2018, April). Fashion Products Development by Inspirtion of Indian Folk Art and Craft Designs. Retrieved April 01, 2021, from https://textilevaluechain.in/2018/06/22/ fashion-products-development-by-inspiration-of-indian-folk-art-and-craft-designs/. 23. TNN. (2018, March 18). Reinventing the classics on day 3 of The FDCI-presented fashion week in Delhi - Times of India. Retrieved April 13, 2021, from https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/entertainment/events/ delhi/reinventing-the-classics-on-day-3-ofthe-fdci-presented-fashion-week-in-delhi/ articleshow/63347509.cms 24. Shrivastava, N., Goel, A., & Rani, S. (2019). Adaptation of mandala art for development of design suitable for textile articles. International Journal of Home Science, 5(3), 1-4.

17. Negi, M., Rani, A., Bala, R., & Singh, A. (2017). New perspective in textile designing with aipan design through tie and dye tech-

25. Bhandari, V., Rani, A., Gahlot, M., & S. (2019). Aipan: An Inspiring Folkart for Textile Designing. International Journal of Current

nique. In T. Gupta, P. B. Mistry, & B. S. Gupta (Eds.), A treatise on Recent Trends and Sustainability in Crafts & Design (pp. 167-175). New Delhi: Excel. Retrieved April 12, 2017, from https://www.academia.edu/36085497/

Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 8(6), 527-537. doi:https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2019.806.061

International_Conference_on_Recent_ Trends_and_Sustainability_in_Crafts_and_ Design_A_treatise_on_Recent_Trends_and_ Sustainability_in_Crafts_and_Design. 18. Jaiswal, E., Goswami, M., & Mishra, A. (2017). The revival of dying legacy: Tikuli art. In T. Gupta, P. B. Mistry, & B. S. Gupta (Eds.), A treatise on Recent Trends and Sustainability in Crafts & Design (pp. 167-175). New Delhi: Excel. Retrieved April 12, 2017, from https://www.academia.edu/36085497/ International_Conference_on_Recent_ Trends_and_Sustainability_in_Crafts_and_ Design_A_treatise_on_Recent_Trends_and_ Sustainability_in_Crafts_and_Design. 19. Purwar, S. (2018). Folk arts: A strong source of designing. International Journal of Applied Home Science, 5(2), 514-517. 20. Singh, S. (2018). Study of Hand Painted Kalamkari to Design New Motifs. International Journal of Computer Application, 8(2), 25-40. doi:https://dx.doi.org/10.26808/rs.ca.

26. Sen, P. (2019, July 05). Inspired by Madhubani art, mithila by Designer Daya Bansal is a fusion of Indian art and MODERN SILHOUETTES. Retrieved April 18, 2021, from http:// www.indulgexpress.com/fashion/newlaunches/2019/jul/05/inspired-by-madhubani-art-mithila-by-designer-daya-bansal-is-afusion-of-indian-art-and-modern-silho-16132. html 27. Sengupta, M. (2019, July 10). Breathing life into a lost art. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://telanganatoday.com/breathing-life-into-a-lost-art 28. Crossley, I. (2019, August 22). Vineetrahul shows Pichwai collection At Lakme Fashion Week. Retrieved April 18, 2021, from https:// in.fashionnetwork.com/news/Vineetrahulshows-pichwai-collection-at-lakme-fashionweek,1129882.html 29. Tiwari, Dr. S., & Dhakad, D. (2020). Design Intervention & Craft Revival with Reference to Pichwai Paintings: A Contemporise Approach. Journal of Textile Science and Fashion Technology, 6(1), 1-7. doi:10.33552/

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JTSFT.2020.06.000628 30. Dhir, Y. (2020). CAD intervention for Revival, Stylization & Adaptation of Madhubani Traditional Textiles. International Journal for Modern Trends in Science and Technology, 6(8S), 145-148. doi:https://doi.org/10.46501/ IJMTSTCIET28 31. Babel, S., & Sachihar, L. (2020). Designing Cushions Picking Inspiration from Traditional Folk Painting: Sanjhi. International Journal

of Science and Research, 9(1), 1106-1108. doi:10.21275/ART20204230 32. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN (2020, September 22). Tata Power's 'SaheliWorld.org' Launches 'Warli Art Collection' to Revive the Ancient Art Form by Artisans of Jawahar. Retrieved April 20, 2021, from https://textilevaluechain. in/2020/09/22/tata-powers-saheliworld-orglaunches-warli-art-collection-to-revive-theancient-art-form-by-artisans-of-jawahar/

33. Jha, A. (2020, July 08). Dying crafts of INDIA: Into the world of Colourful Rogan textile art. The Indian Express. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://indianexpress.com/ article/lifestyle/fashion/the-dying-craft-ofindia-rogan-art-abdul-gafur-6495790/ 34. The Traditional Rogan Art. (n.d.). Retrieved April 20, 2021, from http://roganartnirona.com/

NEWS

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material to trade nuclear power with the skin." Jeff Veach, VP of deals and advertising for Culp Home Fashions added: "The cooling innovation is inborn inside the yarn, not needing the option of synthetic substances. ChillSense fueled by Repreve consolidates execution and supportability components in a single texture and addresses a moderate contribution for our clients and purchasers to settle on a maintainability based purchasing choice. Since 2019, Culp has redirected more than 63 million plastic containers from going into squander streams by consolidating Repreve re-

used fiber into its sleeping pad textures and upholstery textures items, including the ChillSense controlled by Repreve line. We are eager to offer two extraordinary innovations in one." A further element of the association among Culp and Unifi is their consolidated worldwide ability to explore the current store network issues. Remarking on this, Veach noted: "Culp has the excess to create and scale this new texture line. The crude material can be made locally in Reidsville and it can likewise be made abroad, working together with Culp's broad texture arrangement capacities."

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AN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY MUSHROOM LEATHER

V. LOGA SUBRAMANI B. Tech T.T.

A. A. RAYBAGI

Assistant Professor in Textiles

DKTE’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji Abstract A versatile material that has created outstanding attention among buyers of apparel, footwear, and furniture because of its flexibilit and durability properties. Excluding the features of leather, the steps are involved in its manufacturing having a huge impact on the surroundings. In contrast to the newest leather made from mushroom technology, the usual leather accounts for higher ecological footprints. The emergency of innovative fabrics formed from the mycelium of mushrooms is expected to have huge demand in the market in the upcoming generation. This context emphasizes the processing methods involved in designing mushroom leather, its advantages over animal leather, and its influence on the environment. Key Words: animal leather, environment friendly, leather, mushroom leather, sustainable, etc. Introduction Leather is a well-known material in the field of clothing, furniture, accessories, and footwear. On account of its longlasting, versatility, and good comfort it has a huge estimation in the market with a business value of US$ 100 billion per year. Traditionally the raw materials that take part in the processing are animal skins which make the leather industry depend on by-prod-

ucts of the dairy and meat industries. Subsequently, the leathers are tanned and processed under several conditions which release toxic chemicals that account for carbon emissions and playing a significant role in the greenhouse effect. The latest competitor has emerged in the market showcasing modern technologies by replacing the leather derived from animals with sustainable and environment-friendly leather. The innovative product that completely removes usage of chemicals, reduction in carbon emissions, on the other hand having the supremacy such as recyclable, flexible and can able to mimic the standard leather is simply awesome. In this article, the discussion is made on the process included in the production of alternate leather with its impact on surroundings and benefits over animal leather. 2. Implementation of an exceptional ingredient Labels such as sustainable, environment-friendly, renewable, and organic are well suited for the innovative class of textile “Mushroom Leather”. Apart from the application of fungi in medical science, edibles, and biofertilizers the compound multicellular organisms are utilized in making an eco-friendly product. Varieties of mushrooms exist in the environment having divergent properties in which some accounts for nourishment and another set of spe-

Figure 1: Network of white threads (Mycelium) (Source: Pixabay - https://pixabay.com/ photos/mushroom-mycelium-small-mushroom-3835397/)

cies used for the medicinal purpose [7] (Mitchell P, Tien, Chaitali, F, & John, 2017). In this case, mushrooms are primal matter in the processing of sustainable leather as they own the competency to grow mycelium underneath them. 3. Under grown network of hyphae Mycelium is the largest living structure on the globe occupies nearly 10

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Kilometer square in Oregon’s Blue Mountains. Mycelium, the vegetative constituent of fungus incorporated with a matrix of filaments. In another way, the term mycelium is defined as a rootlike structure covering mushrooms. The process of developing the network of such delicate white strands requires minimum dissipation of energy and resulted in the trash can be recycled [2] (J, T, Rames, & Kavitha, 2015). 4. Construction of an eco-friendly substitute

having tightly interlaced mycelium that grows into a bundle of thread-like structures with interconnections that are highly responsible for material strength. Before drying and utilization, the final material is compressed to obtain the needed size and shape [4] (Mitchell P, Antoni, Sabu, & Alexander, 2020).

4.1 Preparation of substrate

In the premature stage of the process, modification of substrates and alteration of growing conditions is possible [1] (Haneef, Luca, Cloudia, Jose, & Athanassia, 2017). The material can be grown in vertically stacked layers results in better use of space. Polyvinyl chloride or PVC leather [3] (Qua, 2019) is produced by chemical alteration of vinyl polymer whereas mycelium-based leather eliminates the usage of chemicals during processing. The process implements minimum usage of water less than one-tenth of water used in typical leather production. Mycelium fabrics can form the resultant fabric with different textures, sizes, finishes, and complex shapes to acquire desired characteristics.

During the processing of mushroom leather, the surface on which the mushroom grows should be dampened. Mushrooms are included with organic wastes such as sawdust, straw, and corn. The company named MycoWorks mixes agar along with mushrooms whereas Mycotech uses sawdust. Wet substrate makes it easier for the mushroom to append with the organic inclusions and develop. The growing conditions can be tuned to produce composites of varied sizes, shapes, and performance of the outcome [3] (Madaria, 2018). 4.2 Development of mycelium The process of developing mycelium also eliminates the involvement of overpriced and cosmopolitan methods. Following the cleaning process, the wastes are mixed with a minute, reproductive unit of mushroom and covered. Mycelium grows at an exponential rate ranges from four to nine days [4] (Mitchell P, Antoni, Sabu, & Alexander, 2020). Other factors also modify the growth of mycelium is a variety of mushroom, humidity, and temperature [3] (Qua, 2019). The cells ultimately

5. Contrasting characteristics mushroom leather

sions and processing with a minimum amount of chemicals are the added advantage. It helps in controlling properties such as texture, strength, elongation, orientation, and unmatched finishes [6] (Madaria, 2018).

5.1 During processing

5.2 Advantages of mushroom leather over typical leather The time required in the latest manufacturing technology is very less compared to the typical process. Growing cattle for skin (raw material) may take three years to produce fragments of leather while the growth of mushrooms is rapid. Hence raising livestock is not involved in fungi-derived leather [3] (Qua, 2019). Fewer carbon emis-

Figure 3: Ebony finish of Black Emboss

Figure 4: Brown Natural leather (Source: Myco Works Inc. - https://www. madewithreishi.com/products)

Mycelium has the potential to construct large-scale structured (macro structured) fabrics which are robust and pleasant to breathe. The contribution of animal agriculture in greenhouse gas emissions is more considering mycelium has a soft connection to the environment from the initial to the final stage. The watch straps of mushroom leather can prevent skin annoyance due to eczema. Light mycelium-based leather also has more absorbency compared to its competitor [4] (Mitchell P, Antoni, Sabu, & Alexander, 2020). Table 1: Properties of mushroom-based leather compared to cowhide leather

Environmental impact of mushroom technology Figure 2: Tightly interlaced pack of mycelium (Source: Network of Deutsche Welle)

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The whole process of fabricating the mushroom leather happens in a closed-

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Figure 5: Illustration of eco-friendly nature of mushroom leather

loop manner. The term closed-loop means that the raw materials employed in the process acquired from post-consumer waste and made into recycling and adapted to use into a variety of products [3] (Madaria, 2018). Growth substrates incorporated such as sawdust, corn, and straw are usually byproducts of agriculture that facilitate creative re-use. The effective growth of mycelium is achieved by an organic process that makes up the leather-like composite with a low impact on the environment [6] (Qua, 2019).

Conclusion

References

The process of making leather from mushrooms that too inclusive of renewable ingredients and customization technology is unprecedented. With the constantly evolving technologies, the leather alternative is expected to have an extraordinary market in the future. In addition to enormous benefits, mycelium-based materials have the least impact on the environment than making them superior to typical leather. The mushroom leather has been produced on a small scale now; when it starts to be manufactured in extensive volumes then customers will highly get attracted to such sustainable fashion. Also, we can state that money is the big concern in switching to sustainable fashion, if there is cost reduction, hope the leather can draw much attention from buyers [13]. Every individual should aware of the term “Eco-conscious”. Once they started to show concern for the environment then green could be an incredible trend in the world.

1) Haneef, M., Luca, C., Cloudia, C., Jose, H.-G., & Athanassia, A. (2017, 01 24). Advanced Materials From Fungal Mycelium: Fabrication and Tuning of Physical Properties. Scientific Reports, 7. doi:10.1038/ srep41292 2) J, K., T, S., Rames, P., & Kavitha, S. (2015, 02 15). Eco-friendly waste management strategies for greener environment towards sustainable development in leather industry: A comprehensive review. Journal of cleaner production. doi:10.1016/j. jclepro.2014.11.013 3) Madaria, D. (2018). I search paper: Mushroom Leather. 4) Mitchell P, J., Antoni, G., Sabu, J., & Alexander, B. (2020, 09 07). Leather-like material fabrication using fungi. Natural sustain-

Figure 5: Percentage more people ready to pay for sustainable fashion (Source: Survey on global perspective by KPMG)

ability. doi:10.1038/s41893-020-00606-1 5) Mitchell P, J., Tien, H., Chaitali, D., F, D., & John , S. (2017). Mycelium Composites: A Review of Engineering Characteristics and Growth Kinetics. Journal of Bionanoscience. 6) Qua, F. (2019). A qualitative study on sustainable materials for design through a comparative review of leather and its modern alternatives. 7) Stamets, P. (2005). Mycelium Running: How mushrooms can save the world. New York: Ten-speed press. 8) “Bolt Threads – Mylo.” Bolt Threads, Bolt Threads Inc., http://www.boltthreads.com 9) Reishi™: https://www.madewithreishi. com/products 10) Myco Works https://www.mycoworks.com/ourproducts#an-advanced-materials-platform 11) Mushroom Leather is more than a sustainable alternative to animal skin by Katherine Saxon https://wtvox.com/fashion/ mushroom-leather 12) Eco vative design: https://ecovativedesign.com/ Sustainable fashion, a survey on global perspectives by KPMG, FASHION SUMMIT.

FACTS Leather has been around for quite a long time and is produced using the skins of expired creatures without the requirement for the utilization of costly engineered materials. It has consistently been eco-accommodating and that is something that won't ever change particularly with the appearance of biodegradable leather in the 21st century.

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RECYCLING LEATHER

ASHWINI TARTE M.Tech Student

DR. SUMAN D MUNDKUR Visiting Faculty

Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT Mumbai Abstract The leather industry is one of the leading industries in textiles. It produces large amounts of waste during the manufacturing process and after the use of leather fabric by consumers. This industry is one of the largest waste-producing industries. Almost 20% of worldwide waste from leather is generated in Asia. This can be very harmful to aquatic life. It occupies a large landfill space. The waste should be recycled to minimize the environmental impact. It produces solid waste and liquid waste during processing. There are a lot of studies done on leather recycling and reusing leather products. Some methods to recover energy from the heat and energy which is generated during leather processing. The restyling technique also helps reuse and reduce waste. Keywords: leather manufacturing, leather waste, leather recycling.

meat industry. This raw material is processed and converted into usable leather in tanneries. Hence, the tanning industry is considered as one of the primary leather processing units in the entire leather industry. The chemical treatment called tanning converts the otherwise perishable skin to a stable and non-decaying material. Tanning agents include vegetable tannins (from sources such as tree bark), mineral salts (such as chromium sulfate),

and fish or animal oils. In this tanning process, maximum leather waste is generated; this waste is further used for generating heat and energy [1]. Process of modern leather Manufacting Leather production is a very lengthy process that involves several steps before tanning. The most important stages in converting the raw animal hide to leather are listed below [2][3]. The modern commercial leather-making process involves three basic phases:

Introduction Leather has been treated with chemicals to preserve and make it suitable for use as clothing, footwear, handbags, furniture, tools, and sports equipment. The consumption of leather products by humans is very commonly used. The primary raw material for any leather processing industry is derived from slaughterhouses and waste from the

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Fig 1. Processing of leather [3]

REVIEW PAPER Table No. 1 Harmful chemicals use in leather industry [4] Name of Chemical

Use

Target organs

Chromium sulphate

Principal raw material used in the production of chrome tanning materials for the leather industry like Chrome-tanning salts

Blood, kidneys, heart, lungs, eyes and carcinogen

Chromium

used for dyeing

Kidney, CNS,

Short chain chlorinated paraffin's (PBT)

Additive for the leather treatment (renders smoothness to leather), leather clothing and belts and as a leather oiling agent.

Liver, kidney, thyroid and carcinogen

Cobalt dichloride

Used in leather dyeing and finishing as well found in tanned leather

Lungs, liver, kidney, heart, skin

Methyl isothiazolinone

Biocide, microbiological protection

Skin, eyes and carcinogen

Formaldehyde HCHO Heavy metals Arsenic

Leather finishing

Eyes, lungs and carcinogen

1. Preparation for tanning, 2. Tanning 3. Processing tanned leather [4]. No.1 lists down the different steps in the processing of leather. Eco-friendly alternatives for the hazardous chemicals used in leather processing The consumer consciousness and strict regulations by worldwide authorities require leather products with the lowest possible risk for the environment. Instead of using chromium sulfate, we can use vegetable tannin like quebracho, chestnut, behra nuts in the tanning process, which gives a more stable leather and it is an eco-friendly method [6]. Nitrocellulose lacquer emulsions can be successfully replaced with castor oil, which maintains the typical lacquer emulsion properties like glossy touch, softness, and elasticity. Enzymes, amino acids, or oxazolidine can be used as an alternative in tanning processes. As an alternative for the solvent N-Methyl pyrrolidone high wear topcoat acrylics being free of solvents has been used. Formaldehyde in leather finishing is not only used as a crosslinker for cases in topcoats but also as a biocide. Finishing chemicals may contain formaldehyde even when no formaldehyde was used for the production, as many raw materials are preserved in a formaldehyde base. To overcome this problem use of formaldehyde scavengers can be adopted as in the case of some Wet End Chemicals Inorganic heavy metal pigments like

lead chromate, cadmium sulfide and others can be replaced by organic pigments or pigments. We can use silver nanoparticles in the tanning process which improves the mechanical and physical properties. It can also be used as an antimicrobial and UV resistant application [5][7]. Waste management in the leather industry Fig. No.2 below gives the volume of waste generated from the leather Industry. The largest amount of waste comes from the Asian Continent. The waste generated from the leather Industry from China alone contributes to 13% while, one-fourth of the global waste comes from the other Asian countries together.

up in a municipal landfill. 2. Pre-consumer waste: is waste generated during the manufacturing process. Waste originates from all stages of leather making process, such as fine leather particles, residues from various chemical discharges, and reagents from different waste liquors (Effluent), comprising of large pieces of leather cuttings, trimmings, and gross shavings, fleshing residues, solid hair debris and remnants of paper bags. Out of 1000 kg of rawhide, nearly 850 kg is generated as solid wastes in leather processing. Only 150 Kg of the raw material is converted to leather [9]. Over 80 % of the organic pollution load in BOD terms comes from the pre-tanning process this mainly comes from degraded skin and hair matter. During the tanning process at least 300 kg of chemicals are added per ton of hides. Excess of non-used salts will appear in the wastewater [8]. A large amount of waste generated by tanneries is discharged in natural water bodies directly or indirectly through two open drains without any treatment. The water in developing countries, like India and Bangladesh, is polluted to such a degree, that it has become unsuitable for public use. In summer, when the rate of decomposition of the waste is higher, serious air pollution is caused in residential areas by producing intolerable obnoxious odors [10]. Tannery wastewater and solid wastes often find their way into surface water, where toxins are carried downstream water. Chromium waste can also leak into the soil and contaminate groundwater systems [9]. Steps to improve the waste management in the leather industry

Two types of waste generated in the leather industry 1. Post-consumer waste: It is also called household waste and dirty waste. Any worn out, damaged, and out of fashion apparel and textile products, which are discarded and no longer in use by the wearer. They are sometimes given to charities but more typically are disposed of into the trash and end

Fig. No. 3 Steps to improve waste management [8]

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1. Reduce: We should buy only what we need because a better way to reduce waste is by not creating it. Reducing the amount of buying is the most significant of all the options to manage waste. The key is to only purchase goods that we need and in the right amount. If we generate an excess of products in the first place, we do not have to extract raw resources, manufacture goods from scratch, come up with shipping materials, utilize additional resources for shipping, and then devise ways to dispose of them [12]. 2. Reuse: If we have to acquire goods, try getting used ones or obtaining substitutes. Waste, after all, is in the eye of the beholder. One person’s trash is another person’s treasure. If we look at things we are throwing away, we can learn to see them as materials that can be reused to solve everyday problems and satisfy everyday needs. Most of us, however, have not even begun to exploit the resources in our trash. Once you have made up your mind to use trash for positive uses, you can begin to brainstorm and generate ideas. Reusing saves money, conserves resources, and satisfies the human urge to be creative [12]. 3. Recycle: When we discard waste, find ways to recycle it instead of letting it go to landfills [12][13]. Old leather recycling 1. Take gently worn leather goods to be fixed professionally. General shoe and bag repair shops often have the equipment to make repairs including patching, stitching, and stretching, and can restore your leather goods to extend their life. Do not buy new, fix your favorites instead as a sustainable option. 2. Take leather scraps to a recycling outlet for resale. It is a good option of taking leather scraps to be resold to others for many purposes including craft projects. Some industrial level companies also recycle leather to be used again in their products. 3. Donate worn leather shoes to a local charity. Many non-profit organizations will collect used footwear and pass it on to those in need in the community. Before giving away, we should carefully inspect and clean our shoes to appraise their quality for reuse.

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4. Donate clothes and bags. Use the internet to find a collector in your neighborhood and give back to your community [14]. Upcycling Leather Items Creatively 1. We can use old belts to make a ‘shelf ’. Once we have finished wearing a belt, we can still use it in a variety of handy ways around the home, including creating a unique hanging shelf. It’s easy, cheap, and saves space in your room. 2. We can create funky new handles for a handbag from leather waste. 3. We can make a set of new napkin rings for your dining room table. 4. Also of kind rug for the living room can be made from leather waste. If we have enough scraps, we can make a large rug for the living room [14]. 4. Energy Recovery UASB technology The heat and energy generation can be achieved by treating the wastewater effluent using Upflow Anaerobic Sludge Blanket Technology (UASB) with Sulfur Recovery Plant. The UASB technology has been well-known for treating wastewater primarily because of its low sludge production. The major advantage of this technology is that it provides a potential possibility to generate energy, rather than consuming the same while treating the wastewater using this technology for treating tannery wastewater. Because of the high sulfate content, it results in the generation of methane gas, contaminated with hydrogen sulfide. An improved system has, therefore, been developed whereby the sulfate is completely removed as elemental sulfur. This also reduces the COD by 60% and TDS by 90%

while forming a blanket of granular sludge which is suspended in the tank. Wastewater flows upward through the blanket and is processed by the anaerobic microorganism, eventually aggregates form into dense compact biofilms referred to as granules and Biogas with a high concentration of methane is produced as a by-product, and this may be used as an energy source, to generate electricity [11]. Biomethanation for Solid Waste Disposal of leather Solid wastes generated by the leather processing industry are posing a major challenge. Tannery, fleshings, which are the major solid wastes emanating from the beam house of a tannery, are subjected to biomethanation. It is a process whereby the fleshing is liquified completely biologically. The resulting liquefied fleshing is treated in anaerobic reactors to produce biogas. Any anaerobic reactor like the UASB reactor can be used for this purpose. Biomethanation is a process by which organic material is microbiologically converted under anaerobic conditions to biogas. Three main physiological groups of microorganisms are involved in fermenting bacteria, organic acid oxidizing bacteria, and methanogenic archaea. Microorganisms degrade organic matter to methane and carbon dioxide. Biomethanation has strong potential for the production of energy from organic residues and wastes. It will help to reduce the use of fossil fuels and thus reduce CO2 emissions [11].

UASB uses an anaerobic process

Fig. No. 5 Process Flow of Bio methanation process [11]

5. Special treatment Regenerated leather (RGL)

Fig. No. 4 UASB Reactor [11]

Preparation of leather-like material, regenerated leather from finished leather wastes is economical and helps in reducing the environmental pollu-

REVIEW PAPER tion. Incorporating plant fibers into RGL enhances its mechanical properties. Plant fibers are exploited as reinforcement materials owing to their low cost, fairly good mechanical properties, high specific strength, non-abrasive, eco-friendly, and bio-degradability characteristics. Fiberized leather wastes and PFs were mixed in various proportions to prepare regenerated leather composites. Plant fibers like coconut, sugarcane, banana, and corn silk were used for a study, regenerated leather composites prepared using leather waste and coconut fiber (50:40 ratio) proved to be a better composite with potent properties. Regenerated leather composites are promising for the preparation of leather goods and footwear materials in addition to their cost-effectiveness and environmental pollution abatement [16].

Fig. No. 6 Regenerated leather processing [16]

Benefits of recycling Reduce, Reuse, and Recycling decreases the landfill space requirements. This will result in pollution avoidance, reduced consumption of energy, chemicals, and water. There will be a reduced demand for dyes. Overall, reducing the need for processing virgin materials [15][17]. Challenges with Recycling Although the recycling of materials creates a circular economy and therefore increases sustainability, there are potential challenges to recycling leather. Theoretically, offcuts of leather created within the leather manufacturing process are more easily recycled than final products at the end of their life. However, with a potential lack of market for offcuts, this product is often disposed of in the tannery. Although

some brands are making use of offcuts or combining leather offcuts with other materials to create a combination material, this is not currently widespread and often this material is used for certain products only. There is an extra cost to recycling goods. If the market is not willing to pay the increased cost for a recycled product, it is unlikely that companies will invest [18]. Conclusion As the amount of use of leather increases, the waste generated from the leather is inevitable. Research Institutes and Industries are keen to search for various textile waste recycling opportunities at the industrial level for both economic and environmental reasons. The waste generated during the tanning process of leather manufacturing contains harmful chemicals which pollute the groundwater and is a hazard to living organisms. To overcome this problem, there are alternative chemicals that can be used in the tanning process. These alternatives give better results, are safe for living beings, and sustainable. Some Research Institutes have developed new technologies related to heat and energy generation from toxic solid and liquid waste that is generated in the leather industry. With the help modern technology, leather goods can be recycled more efficiently with minimum waste products.

manufacture of bovine upper leathers: Pilot scale studies’ Clean Technologies and Environmental Policy volume 16, pages1795–1803 (2014). 6. ‘Leather processing, its effects on environment and alternatives of chrome tanning’ laeme publication international journal of advanced research in engineering and technology (ijaret) volume 10, issue 6, november-december 2019, pp. 69-79, article 7. F.R. Souza, and M. Gutterres, ‘Application of enzyme in leather processing,A comparison between chemical and coenzyme processes’. Brazilian Journal of Chemical Engineering, 29(3), 2012, 473-481. 8. J. Hidalgo Ruiz, ‘Wastes generated in the leather products industry’ fourteenth session of the leather and leather products industry Panel Zlin, Czech Republic 13-15 December 2000. 9. Agarwal, R., Sharan, M. (2015). ‘Municipal textile waste and its management’, Research journal of Family, Community and Consumer Sciences. Vol. 3 (1). 10. Ozgunay H, Colak S, Mutlu MM, Akyuz F, ‘Characterization of leather industry waste’. Pol J Environ Stud 6:867–873, (2015). 11. N.M. Sivaram and Debabrata Barik, ‘Toxic Waste From Leather Industries’ Department of Mechanical Engineering, National Institute of Technology Pondicherry, Karaikal, U.T. n book: Energy from Toxic Organic Waste for Heat and Power Generation (pp.55-67). 12. Fahzy Abdul-Rahman, ‘Reduce, Reuse, Recycle: Alternatives for Waste Management’ Guide G-314, N.M State Uuniversity, Florida Cooperative Extension Service publication HE 3157. January 2014. 13. Rick leblanc ‘The Basics of Textile Recycling’ Growth of Textile Recycling Promises to Divert More Material from

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Landfills’. Updated December 30, 2020 https://www.the-

1. Dr. Shilpa Goel ‘An in-depth study of India’s leather in-

other-textiles-2877780.

dustry with special reference to export prospects of leather products’ International Journal of Advanced Research in Management and Social Sciences, January 2014. 2. Karanam Sai Bhavya Raji P, Jenifer Selvarani A ‘Leather Processing, Its Effects on Environment and Alternatives of Chrome Tanning’ International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET) Volume 10, Issue 6, November-December 2019, pp. 69-79. 3. Moses A Ollengo and Esther W Nthiga Peter Maina, (2019), ‘Trends in leather processing’: A Review, International Journal of Scientific and Research Publications, 9 (12). 4. Sumita Dixit, Ashish Yadav, Premendra D. Dwivedi, Mukul Das ‘Journal Toxic hazards of leather industry and technologies to combat threat: a review’ Journal of Cleaner Production (2015) 39-49. 5. M. Seggiani, M. Puccini, S. Vitolo, C. Chiappe, C. S.

balancesmb.com/the-basics-of-recycling-clothing-and-

14. ‘How to Recycle Leather’ Co-authored by wikiHow Staff Last Updated: March 29, 2019 https://www.wikihow.com/ Recycle-Leather#References 15. Bairagi, N. ‘Recycling of textiles in India’. Department of Knit wear Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru, India, Textile Science and Engineering, (2014). 16. Rethinam, Senthil,

Tiruchirapalli, Sivagnanam, Uma,

Bhabendra Nath Das & Thotapalli Parvathaleswara Sastry ’Recycling of finished leather wastes: a novel approach’ 17. Islam, M.M., Khan, M.M.R. (2014). ‘Environmental sustainability evaluation of apparel product: A Case study of knitted T-shirts. Journal of Textiles, Hindawi Publishing Corporation, Article id 643080, 6 pages 18. Clean Technologies and Environmental Policy, (2015), Volume 17, pages187–197.

Pomelli & D Castiello ‘Eco-friendly titanium tanning for the

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MONPA HANDMADE PAPER OF ARUNACHAL PRADESH SHIPRA YADAV Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Revival of 1000 Years old Paper Traditional art and craft, practiced by various skill-societies in the country are the evidence of Indian cultural heritage. For this, a positive development has been made in the state of Arunachal Pradesh where an extinct 1000-years-old ancient paper mill has been revived by the Khadi and Village Industrial Commission (KVIC). This optimistic approach has welcomed opportunities in bringing the employment for the people of the state of Arunachal Pradesh and also play a vital role to boost the Indian economy. The paper has great historic and religious significance as it is the paper used for writing Buddhist scriptures and hymns in monasteries. The Monpa handmade paper, made from the bark of a local tree called Shugu Sheng, has medicinal values too. Monpa paper craft is made by tawang scheduled tribe people, known as monpa. They were the early people to practice this handmade paper. Slowly and gradually this art become an integral part of the local custom and their source of earning livelihoods. Monpa paper become famous and started being produced in large amount, which was exported in nearby places like Bhutan, Tibet, Thailand and Japan. Because at that time there was no proper paper making industry existed in those countries. Thus, the people of Tawang got the benefit.

dia and the believed to be only nomadic tribe in north east India. They completely depend upon animals’ live sheep, cow, yak, goats and horses. Monpas share a close affinity with the sharchops of Bhutan. About Tawang This Tawang not only known for handmade paper but also handmade pottery and handmade furniture as with the passage of time it was also get extinct. It also famous amoung tourists for the mountain motorbikes. Tawang shares it bordering region with Tibet and Bhutan. Over time, the local industry of Arunachal Pradesh began declining and the indigenous handmade paper was taken over by the inferior Chinese paper. After this declination, in 1994, there was an attempt made for the revival of Monpa paper industry but failed due to various geographical challenges in Tawang due to its tough geographical region, with high mountains, daunting terrains which makes industrial developed a complicated to established.

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Monpa paper is made from the bark of tree Shugu Sheng, grown locally in Tawang. To make Mon Shugu, the inner fibrous bark of the Shugu Sheng shrub is dried, boiled with a solution of ash, made into pulp and then cut into sheets of paper. The process of making this paper is entirely organic with no chemical additives. This naturally processed paper possesses strong tensile strength and is durable. Initially the paper industry engaged 9 artisans, who can produced 500-600 sheets of monpa handmade paper per day. For which each artisan was earning Rs. 400/-. The Arunachal Pradesh government lent support to the project and offered a building on a nominal rent to set up the unit. A team of scientist and officials of The Kumarappa National Handmade Paper Institute (KNHPI) Jaipur were deployed at tawang by the instruction of KVIC. Challenged faced: The most challenging task for KVIC officials was to transport the machines to Twang owing to its difficult mountainous terrain and inclement weather conditions. Findings Monpa handmade paper making unit in Tawang which not only aimed at reviving the art but also engaging the local youths with this art professionally and earn.

The Monpa The monpas are the major tribes of Arunachal Pradesh in northern In-

Process of Making Monpa Handmade Paper

Fig. 1- Monpa Handmade Paper

 Monpa handmade paper has high commercial value that can be harnessed to create local employment. By

REVIEW PAPER increasing production of Monpa handmade paper, it can be exported to other countries. This is a local product with great global potential, which is aligned with the Mantra of "Local to Global" given by the Prime Minister.  The Government has tried to implement schemes for the people of Arunachal Pradesh like intra-state transmission and distribution infrastructure in the state by providing the states grid connectivity to remote areas.  Producing paper from Non-Timber Forest Products (NTFPs) and nonwood fibres help in reducing the need to procure pulpwood from natural forests and to minimize deforestation. These products are vital sources of income, nutrition and sustenance for many forest-based communities around the world.  With increasing population, paper consumption has also been increasing which demand large number of raw materials from different sources, such as wood, non-wood fibre and nontimber forest products to increase the production.

Conclusion With the strong resolve of the higher management of KVIC, the unit was successfully established despite many challenges. The 1000-year-old heritage art the monpa handmade paper of Arunachal Pradesh which was driven to extinction has come to life once again with the committed efforts of KVIC.The revival of this paper industry brings an encouragement to the art and heritage to the people of Tawang. This initiative not only brings the revival but the employment to the people of Arunachal Pradesh making it a part of their livelihood by the prime minister mantra “local to global”. The making process of monpa handmade paper is eco-friendly and the product is biodegradable which made from non-timber forest product. It also encourages the value of monpa (scheduled tribe) to the world recognition. Not only this revives the Indian heritage but also play a vital role to boost the Indian economy. References [1] PIB Delhi (2021, February 04). Press Information Bureau, Government of India, Ministry of Micro, Small & Medium Enterprises; Ar-

ticle. People Patronize Monpa Handmade Paper of Tawang after PM’s push in Mann Ki Baat.Retrieved from https://pib.gov.in/Pressreleaseshare.aspx?PRID=1695156 Figure [1] [3]- PIB (2020) Monpa Handmade Paper [Photograph] Arunachal revives 1,000-year-old handmade paper industry https://acumenias.in/uploads/ affair/Monpa%20Handmade%20Paper20201230070138.jpg Figure [2] PIB (2020 December 28). monpa handmade paper[photograph]. https://vajiramandravi.s3.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/ media/2020/12/28/10/12/4/jjjjj.jpg Figure [4][5] Holiday Scout (2017, 04 June) Tawang Focus – The Art of Making Paper. [Photograph] https://theholidayscout.com/ indigenous-knowledge/arts-and-crafts/tawang-focus-the-art-of-making-paper/ Figure [6] Sentinel Digital Desk (2020 28 Dec). KVIC revives Monpa handmade paper industry, historic event for the locals of Tawang. [photograph]. https://www.sentinelassam.com/north-east-india-news/ arunachal-news/kvic-revives-monpa-handmade-paper-industry-historic-event-for-thelocals-of-tawang-518374

LENZING CLAIM TO FAME FILAMENTS TO BE PRODUCED USING MATERIAL WASTE Lenzing and Södra are expecting to transform a yearly 25,000 tons of material waste into the new item by 2025. Lenzing is collaborating with mash maker Södra, settled in Växjö, Sweden, on the further improvement of OnceMore Pulp created from material waste. The arrangement includes the exchange of information between the two organizations which have been proactively driving the roundabout economy numerous years and following joint turn of events and a limit extension, OnceMore Pulp will be utilized as a crude material for the creation of Lenzing's Tencel x Refibra marked forte strands. The two organizations are intending to turn a yearly 25,000 tons of

material waste each year into the new item by 2025. The OnceMore cycle joins wood cellulose with up to half material waste substance to make an unadulterated, excellent dissolving mash which can be utilized to create new attire and other material items. "The participation with Södra is a significant achievement towards accomplishing our yearning environment and manageability objectives. We are pleased to have the option to go this route with a capable accomplice. "One organization alone can't address the major problem of material waste," said Christian Skilich, individual from the overseeing leading group of Lenz-

NEWS

ing. "It is proactive organizations like this one that will empower us to push ahead and achieve genuine fundamental change." "With OnceMore mash, Södra has made an internationally one of a kind answer for putting together materials with respect to a reused source," added Lotta Lyrå, President and CEO of Södra. By uniting with Lenzing, we will carry a-list reusing to the material worth chain. Through another speculation, we will likewise build our creation limit with regards to OnceMore mash ten times during 2022 and have a more significant level of reused material substance. These are significant strides towards our drawn out focus of making a round material industry."

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COIR PRODUCTS EXPORT OPPORTUNITIES DR.J.ANANDHA KUMAR Lecturer, Department of Textile Processing, GRG Polytechnic College

Abstract Coir is a versatile lingo-cellulosic fiber obtained from coconut trees (Cocos nucifera). Coir is available in large quantities, in the order of 5 million tons a year globally. The export of coir and coir products from India was Rs. 2757.90 crore for the year 2019-20. Registering an all-time high record, which was around Rs. 30 crores higher than that of the last year i.e., 2018-19 at Rs. 2728.04 crore. While the exports of coir pith, tufted mats, coir Geo-textiles, coir rugs and carpets, coir ropes and power-loom mats grew both in terms of quantity and value. The products like hand-loom mats, coir yarn, rubberized coir and power-loom matting showed a decline in terms of the quantity and increase in terms of value. Coir pith with export earnings of Rs. 1349.63 crore constituted 49% of the total export of coir products from the country. The value-added items put together constituted 33% of the total exports. The best way to bring the existing coir industry to a higher level is the development of new value-added coir products. This review article throws light on the opportunities in coir spinning and the various value-added coir products for Export. Introduction Coir is the fibre obtained from the fruit of coconut tree (Cocos nucifera). It belongs to the palm tree family (Arecaceae) grown in tropical and sub-tropical countries [1]. Coconut fruit consists of exocarp (the outer husk), mesocarp (the fibrous husk), endocarp (the hard shell) and the endosperm (the meat) [2]. Coir fibre is extracted from the coconut fruit after the removal of husk after the removal of the endocarp and the endosperm. The husk consists of 75%

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of fibre material and 25% fine material called pith [3]. Though coconut tree grows in several countries, majority of fibre extraction takes place in countries like India, Sri Lanka and Philippines. Less than 50% of coconut husk are utilised for fibre extraction and remaining husks are used as domestic fuel and left over as waste which decomposes in due course of time. Coir fibre consists of 43.44% of cellulose, 45.84% of lignin, 0.25% of hemi cellulose, 3.00% of pectin, 2.20% of ash and 5.25% of watersoluble compounds [4]. Due to the high quantity of lignin, coir fibre is brown, stiff and has high flexural rigidity [5]. Two types of of course fibres are available in the coir industry like white fibre and brown fibre [6]. Fibre obtained from the immature green husk after a long retting process of 10 to 12 month is known as white fibres. Brown fibres are extracted from matured husk with a getting process of 10 days. Spinning of coir fibres has been carried out in India, Sri Lanka and Thailand. Coir fibre yarn is produced by the traditional hand spinning process and the mechanised spinning process. Hand spinning is being carried out by women workers in the rural regions of Kerala and provides livelihood to a sizable women population. Mechanised spinning process has got its importance as the demand for coir yarns is not fulfilled by the low production of hand spinning process [7]. Most of the white fibres are processed in hand spinning and the brown fibres are processed in the mechanised spinning system. Coir Fibre Industry in India Coir Industry in India, manufactures yarns, mats, mattings and other products using age-old processes due

to which the quality of the products leaves much to be desired. The fibre properties and chemical composition are given below in Table 1. and Table 2. respectively: Table 1. Physical Properties of Coir Fibers

Table 2. Chemical Composition Coir Fibers (% by mass on dry basis)

Spinning Spinning is mostly done manually. The output is low, and the nature of work is tiresome. Mechanised ratts are available, but in most of the cases, the quality of yarns from these ratts does not conform to the exporter’s quality requirements. Majority of the coir yarns

REVIEW PAPER spun using mechanized ratts are manufactured with cotton or polyester filament as core. Whenever cotton is used as core, the cost of the resultant coir yarn increases and when polyester filaments are used as core, the eco-friendly nature of the coir product is affected. Hand Spinning The usual practice in hand spinning is to roll the fibre into short length of 6 to 9 inches, giving a clockwise twist by hand. When enough has been made, two of these short lengths are taken in hand together and made into yarn of two plies by giving a counter twist, using both palms? When the counter twist reaches near the end of the striking, further pieces of short lengths that are kept ready, are added one after other, while the Counter twist by hand is continued, till the required length of yarn for a knot is reached. This is reeled in the form of a hank and a knot is made at the end. Handspun yarn always has a soft twist. Traditional Ratt Spinning Since the middle of the 19th century, coir spinning wheels or ‘Charka’ have been introduced with a view to increasing production and obtaining the hard twist required for the manufacture of matting, etc. Wheel spinning is gradually displacing hand spinning. To prepare two-ply coir yarn on the spinning wheel, one set of two wheels, one stationary and the other movable is required. The stationary wheel usually contains two spindles set in motion through the centre of the wheel. The movable wheel contains one spindle only. Two persons take the silvers of ‘coir’ prepared and kept ready after willowing. Usually, women keep them in their arm pits, make a loop with a small quantity of fibre and then puts the loop thus formed into the notch of one of the spindles on the stationary wheel and gives the fibre a uniform thickness while walking backward. Another operator then gives the twist to the fibre; thus, led by turning the handle of the spinning wheel. This operation is continued till the required length of strand is reached. The strands are then passed through a grooved rod and tied together into the

notch of the spindle; the grooved rod being allowed to move forward. The movable wheel is turned in the opposite direction. The object of the grooved rod is to regulate the twist of the yarn and to prevent entanglement of the strands at the time of doubling. When the grooved rod reaches the stationary wheel, the turning of the spindles of the spinning wheel is stopped and all the ends from that of the stationary wheel are cut off and the yarn is tested to see whether there is sufficient twist. If more twist is required, the movable wheel is turned toward its original direction till the required twist is obtained, if it contains more twist than desired, the movable wheel is turned in a direction contrary to the original twist. Traditional Wheel spinning using a spinning wheel requires three people, who may produce 12-15 kg of yarn per day. Motorised Traditional Ratt Motorised Traditional Ratt is a developed form of a coir spinning ‘charka’. Here, the stationary ratt is rotated using a suitable contrivance attached to an electric motor. By attaching the rotating system to the stationary ratt one worker is avoided and the productivity is increased. The wages thus earned are divided among the two workers resulting in enhancement of wages of spinners. This system has been introduced recently and found successful in the industry for spinning all varieties of yarn. Motorised Ratt The research and development in coir industry was mainly aimed for reducing the drudgery of the workers involved in the spinning of coir yarn on traditional and motorised traditional ratts. Two or three spinners are engaged for exercising the production activity in yarn spinning, where they are exposed to changing weather conditions, which ultimately affects the production. They are also forced to walk up and down in the spinning yard for taking the individual strands and for doubling operation. As a result of research and development, a spinning device for reducing the drudgery, improving the productivity and to improve the working environment, the motorised ratt

was introduced in the industry. In the case of a motorised ratt the spinner is made to sit on a chair /stool and roll the well cleaned fibre stacked in the spinning trays attached to the spinning device where the yarn is spun and wound over the bobbins attached to the ratt. Automatic Spinning The production turnover in the case of hand spinning was less. The efforts to maximise the productivity of the yarn resulted in the introduction of automatic spinning machine units.The automatic spinning machine units are capable of production of yarns of runnage varying from 50 to 300 meters/kg and twists from 10 to 30 twists/feet. Coir fibre in the form of bales is the raw material for the unit. These fibres are soaked in water for one hour and are cleaned in the willowing machine. Pith content and the hard bits are removed in the process. Manual attention is also required for this removal, to the fullest extent. The cleaned fibers are passed into the feeder of silvering machine, where the fibers are paralleled and drawn by draw rollers. These paralleled fibers are twisted and taken on to drum. The twisted paralleled fibers are called silvers. The silvers are fed on to the feeder of the spinning machine, combed and to made to fall on to “W” tray. Core threads of nylon/cotton/HDPE/LDP Eassing in the tray are used as carrier for the coir fibres. These fibres are entwined on to the thread and are twisted by the grip nozzles/ rollers. Two such strands are doubled and wound on to a bobbin to form the yarn of required twist and runnage. The automatic spinning machine facilitates spinning of varieties of yarns according to the requirement of the industry. By varying the parameters of the machine to vary the twist and/ or runnage. The yarns thus formed are wound in the form of balls for the easy transportation. Weaving Majority of coir mats and mattings are manufactured in handlooms. Automatic looms are sparingly used in the coir industry. It is mainly due to the exorbitantly high cost of the automatic looms. At present, automatic looms for

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REVIEW PAPER

coir weaving are not manufactured indigenously but imported. Development of heavy-duty cost-effective looms will provide a solution for manufacturing better quality mats and mattings at a relatively lower cost. Dyeing and Bleaching Even though some of the exporters have modern dyeing and bleaching facilities with effluent treatment plants; majority of the dyeing and bleaching activities are carried out with lower level of technology. There is scope for setting up better dyeing and bleaching houses, at least in the case of medium scale exporters/manufacturers. Finishing

Coir Mats

The finishing operations like shearing, stitching, stenciling, clipping etc. are done manually or by operating with lower level of technology. Clipping of the mats is performed by using a pair of scissors, which is cumbersome. Some of these processes could be mechanized for removing human drudgery and for improving product aesthetics.

like hydraulically pressed bales, spools bobbins, dholls, balls etc. cut length for various industrial and agricultural purposes.

Coir Yarn is generally of 2 ply, spun from coir fibre by hand as well as with the help of traditional ratts, fully automatic spinning machines etc. The Coir yarn is of different qualities/grades based on the quality of fibre used, the nature of twist, presence of impurities etc. Available in different forms

Creel mats are manufactured both on handlooms and powerlooms. They are specially noted for their low pile height. The yarn for the pile structure is released from the beam during the weaving process. The pile structure is obtained by suitable positioning of the coir yarn in the fabric structure with the use of grooved rods and cutting the yarn passing over the rods with a sharp knife. These are available in solid shades, stripes, mottled, stenciled, and tile patterns. 2-chain creel mats and 3- chain creel mats are available in this category. 3-chain creel mats have a firmer structure than 2-chain creel mats. Special type of mats with jute twine sold under the name ‘carnatic mats. Coir Mats are made on handlooms, power looms or frames and

Bristle Fiber

Retted Fiber

Value Added Coir Products Coir Fibre is extracted from the fibrous outer cover of the fruit of the Coconut palm, with or without retting. Coir Fibre is graded based on its nature of extraction, colour, presence of long and short fibres, impurities etc.

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with or without brush. Creel Mats are known for its thin brush. Rod Mats for thick brush and Fibre Mats for compact brush. Latex/rubber backing makes the mats non-slip. Available with woven or stenciled designs and bevelled patterns for use in interior or exterior door fronts. Matting mats Coir mattings are cut into the sizes of mats and the edges are finished with all around rubber edging or tucked-in edges. Latex backing or rubber sheet backing are also reported in the manufacture of these mats to give a firm look for the product. These are mostly available in all fancy shades, woven patterns etc. Made on traditional handlooms or powerlooms. Available in natural beach, solid colours and a multitude of designs/patterns made by weave and colour combinations and with or without

Coir Yarn

REVIEW PAPER

Matting Mats

latex backing. Quality of the matting is determined by the type of yarn and weave used. Mainly used as floor coverings and floor runners for furnishing stairs/corridors. Also used for wall panelling, ceiling, lining and echo-control. Coir Mattings are cut to rug size, ends bound, tucked-in, fringed or rubber sealed for use as area rugs. Also available with cotton/tapestry bound and with or without latex backing. Coir Non-Woven Mats Coir Geotextiles protect the land surface and promote quick vegetation. Geotextiles are natural eco-friendly, used in erosion control blankets in woven and non-wovens. Totally biodegradable, geotextiles help soil stabilisation and renew vegetation in varying slopes. A spongy material that binds the coconut fibre in the husk, coir pith is finding new applications. It is an excellent soil conditioner and is being extensively used as a soil-less medium for agri-horticultural purposes. With its moisture retention qualities, coir

pith is ideal for growing anthuriums and orchids. Available in raw form or converted into organic manure. Coir Geo-Textiles Products made out of Coir fibre. From poles to plant pots to hanging baskets, coir makes just about every accessory that is essential for modern day gardening. Coconut husk chips also are widely used in horticultural applications. Conclusions The Indian coir industry is an important cottage industry contributing significantly to the economy of the major coconut-growing States and Union Territories such as Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Goa, Orissa, Assam, Andaman & Nicobar, Lakshadweep and Puducherry. About 5.5 lakh get employment, from this industry. Coconut husk is the basic raw material for coir products. At least 50 per cent of the available

Coir Non-Woven Mats

Coir Geo-Textiles

coir husk is used to produce coir products. The rest is used as fuel in rural areas. Hence, there is scope for growth of coir industry. Efforts have also been made to widen export markets for coir and coir products. The rising demand for coir, an expanding market for coirbased erosion control products, and the spread of coir pith as a peat moss substitute in horticulture resulted in higher production and prices. To India's advantage, it exports largely value-added products yarn, mats, and rugs. The challenge now for industry is to sustain/expand markets for this versatile renewable resource, while maintaining its role as employer for the rural

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REVIEW PAPER

Horticulture Coir Products

people. This may require producers to innovate production, improve product consistency, and develop novel applications jointly with their customers in importing countries. Acknowledgements The Author wish to thank the Management of GRG Institutions, Coimbatore for their constant encouragement and motivation to carry out this work. References 1. S.Sengupta, G.Basu, R.Chakraborty and C.J.Thampi, Stochastic analysis of major physical properties of coconut fi-

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bre Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research,39(1),(2014),pp 14-23. 2.http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/horticulture/ horti_pcrops_coconut_botany.html (2014) 3. J. Raviv and Heinrich Lieth, Soilless Culture: Theory and Practice, Elsevier Science, (2007). 4.D.S.Varma, M.Varma and I.K.Varma,Thermal Behaviour Coir Fibres Thermochin Acta, 108, (1986), pp199-210. 5. H.D.Rozman, K.W.Tan, R.N.Kumar, A.Abubakar, Z.A.Mohd. Ishak and H.Ismail,The effect of lignin as a compatibi-

lizer on the physical properties of coconut fiber –polypropylene composites Europen Polymer Journal, 36(7), (2000), pp.1483-1494. 6. Meenatchisundaram R I, Retting of Coir –A review, Ceylon Cocon. Plrs.Rev.7, (1980), pp.20-28. 7. Leena Mishra, Gautam Basu and Asish Kumar Samanta, Effect of Chemical Softening of coconut Fibres on Structure and properties of its blended yarn with Jute, Fibres and Polymers, 18(2), (2016), pp 357-368. 8. www.coirboard.gov.in

MARKET REPORT

INDIA AND UNFORESEEN TEXTILE MACHINERY EXPORTS IN THE FY 2021 Textile Value Chain Following the outbreak of the novel Covid-19 pandemic, Indian textile machinery manufacturers are hoping to capitalize on global anti-Chinese sentiments. One reason why the country's textile machinery manufacturers are optimistic about their prospects post-Covid-19 is, that they see it as an opportunity to expand their share of the domestic market, which is dominated by imports. The bottom line is that textile machinery manufacturers are optimistic about their prospects in the domestic and global markets following the Coronavirus outbreak. The export of textile machinery in FY 2021 was neither according to the expectations nor below the expectations. Textile machinery exports were expected to swell in the FY 2021, but it dwindled instead. Bangladesh was the highest importer of fiber processing machineries from India in the FY 2019 with the import worth 60 million USD. Its import exhibited a constant and major shrinkage in the next couple of years. Bangladesh’s import dropped down to 31 million USD in FY 2020 and in FY 2021 this import was worth 15 million USD. Turkey was the highest importer of these machineries in the FY 2021 with the import value worth 32 million USD.

Turkey’s import was worth 14 million USD in the FY 2020 and 23 million USD in the FY 2019. Oman imported the least number of machineries among the top 10 importers. Its total purchase was worth 17 million USD. Germany’s purchase was worth 7 million USD in FY 2019, 6 million USD in FY 2020 and 5 million USD in FY 2021. Vietnam imported the machineries worth 30 million USD in FY 2019 which subsequently dropped to 15 million USD in FY 2020 and gradually decreased to 6 million USD. Even Netherland’s import decreased from 20 million USD in FY 2019 to 6 million USD in FY 2021. Indonesia’s import dropped as well. They were 10 million USD in FY 2019 and decreased to 9 million USD in FY 2020. In the year FY 2021, the import was worth 7million USD. Malaysia was one of the top importers in the FY 2019 with the total import worth 35 million USD which fell to 4 million USD. This import increased to 18 million USD in the FY 2021. Benin’s import of these machineries swollen up in the FY 2021 from 2 million USD and 1 million USD in FY 2019 and FY 2020 respectively to 16 million USD. Uzbekistan’s import decreased from 19 million USD to 8 million USD.

Vietnam was the highest importer of weaving machinery in FY 2020. Its import was worth 5 million USD in the FY 2020. In the FY 2019 and FY 2021, it imported the same

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MARKET REPORT

machinery worth 3 million USD. UAE and Turkey imported these machineries worth 2 million USD in the FY 2021 and 1 million USD in FY 2020. UAE’s import of these machineries was worth 19 thousand USD and Turkey’s import was worth 95 thousand USD in the FY 2019. Bangladesh imported these machineries worth 3 million USD in FY 2019 but it’s import dwindled in FY 2020 to 2 million USD. In the FY 2021, Bangladesh increased its import to 4 million USD. Tanzania, Brazil, Egypt, and Mexico’s import of these machineries was worth 1 million USD each in the FY 2021. Indonesia’s import dwindled from 2 million USD in FY 2019 and 2020 to 91 thousand USD in the FY 2021.There was a small visible growth in Algeria’s import of weaving machinery from India between the FY 2019 and 2021. Its import was worth 21 thousand USD in the FY 2019 which swelled up to 91 thousand USD in the FY 2021.

Germany was the highest importer of textile machinery for knitting, lace, embroidery, tufting, etc. in the FY 2021 with the import worth 2 million USD. Germany’s import was comparatively less in the past two years. It imported these machineries worth 1 thousand USD and 18 thousand USD in the FY 2019 and 2020, respectively. Nepal was the 2nd highest importer in the FY 2021 with the purchase worth 45 thousand USD. There was a decline 3 thousand USD in FY 2021’s purchase. Ethiopia’s purchase was worth 27 thousand USD in the FY 2021. It did not make any purchase of these machineries in the FY 2020. Malaysia imported the machinery worth 22 thousand USD in the FY 2021. Turkey’s import was more in FY 2020 than FY 2021. It imported machineries worth 25 thousand USD in 2020 which was 3 thousand USD more than FY 2021’s import. Japan imported these machineries worth 44 thousand USD in FY 2019. Its imports dwindled and was 16 thousand USD in FY 2021. Italy’s import drastically fell in FY 2021 from 1 million USD in FY 2020 to 3 thousand USD in FY 2021. Thailand, Saudi Arabia and Taiwan’s imports were worth 14 thousand USD, 11 thousand USD and 7 thousand USD respectively. Germany was the highest importer of auxiliary machines and parts for textile machinery from India in FY 2019 as

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well as FY 2020. Netherland was the highest importer in FY 2021. Germany’s import was worth 30 million USD in FY 2019 which declined to 10 million USD in FY 2021. Netherland’s import increased from 14 million USD in FY 2019 to 19 million USD in FY 2020. In FY 2021, it dropped to 17 million USD. There was reduction in China’s import from 19 million USD in FY 2019 to 12 million USD in FY 2021. Japan’s import surged in FY 2021 and was worth 10 million USD which was 10 times more than previous year. Bangladesh imported the machineries worth 11 million USD in FY 2019. Its import dwindled in the following couple of years and was worth 8 million USD in both the years. Malaysia’s import hiked unexpectedly in FY 2021 from 1 million USD in FY 2020 to 7 million USD in the following year. Italy’s import that was 13 million USD in FY 2019 fell to 7 million USD in the next financial years. Indonesia, Turkey, and Singapore’s import of the given machinery was 6 million USD, 5 million USD and 4 million USD respectively which was less than the previous year.

COTTON UPDATE

INDIA EDIFICING COTTON DEMAND AND SUPPLY CHAIN Textile Value Chain India represents around 33% of worldwide cotton territory. Inside India, the focal cotton-developing zone produces 66% of the nation's cotton yield, which incorporates the territories of Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, and Odisha, where a large part of the harvest is taken care of. The northern zone, which comprises the territories of Punjab, Haryana, and Rajasthan, produces cotton under watered conditions and records for around 12% of creation. In the south, the provinces of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu represent 25% of creation. The Focal and Southern zones regularly develop long term cotton that permits ranchers to procure various harvests. While the quantity of pickings has declined as conventional assortments are supplanted by biotech half and halves, ranchers can in any case oversee up to five pickings for every plant contingent upon climate conditions. Interestingly, the watered cotton in the northern zone is for the most part a short season crop that finds a way into a cottonwheat trimming framework. Cotton, a prevalent rainstorm season or Kharif crop, is planted from the finish of April to September, and gathered in the fall and winter. As per MOAFW, 6.14 percent of complete gross harvest region in India is under cotton. Cotton yields have leveled throughout the most recent five years with a normal of around 490 kilograms for every hectare.

chipping away at creation plans with higher plant populaces that could improve yields. There are an expected 6,000,000 cotton ranchers with a normal homestead size of 1.5 hectares. Little land possessions limit the capacity to receive capital-concentrated creation innovations and framework. Indeed, even without changing area possessions, yields would probably profit by improved water system, compost, micronutrients, and bugs and sickness the executives. Future development in cotton creation is bound to come from more significant returns as opposed to territory extension. As indicated by the MOAFW, nearly 33% of the complete cotton region is under water. Different bureaucratic and state government offices and examination organizations are occupied with cotton varietal improvement, seed dispersion, crop reconnaissance, coordinated irritation of the board, augmentation, and advertising exercises. In 1999, the public government dispatched the Innovation Mission on Cotton (TMC) to improve the accessibility of value cotton

at sensible costs, improve profitability, modernize showcasing foundation and ginning and squeezing manufacturing plants through examination and innovation. The Indian textile sector is the sixth largest exporter of textiles and apparels in the world. The share of India’s textiles and apparel exports in mercantile exports is 12 percent for the year 2019-20. The United States is the top market for Indian apparel exports. The GOI is implementing various policy initiatives and schemes for supporting the development of the textile industry. These schemes and initiatives which promote technology upgrades, the creation of infrastructure, skill development to enable conditions for textile manufacturing in the country. Scheme for Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products (RoDTEP). Taking a major step to boost exports, the GOI has recently decided to extend the benefit of the Scheme for Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products (RoDTEP) to all export goods including Readymade Garments (RMG) and made ups in January 2021.

Moreover, yields in India are lower since ranchers give more line space between cotton plants to cross with a bullock and cultivator for weed control purposes. This lower plant thickness in the field is balanced somewhat by the numerous picking’s ranchers complete through manual as opposed to machine gathering. To battle this, scientists are

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COTTON UPDATE

India’s cotton yarn export of cotton yarns other than sewing thread dwindled in the year 2020. India exported the cotton yarns worth $2.8 million in the year 2019. This export decreased in the year 2020 and was only worth $2.6 million. the export of cotton yarns apart from sewing thread was less in the months of February, March, April, May, and November when compared with respective months in the past year. This export was highest in January for the year 2020 and was highest in the month of March for the year 2019. The first quarter of 2021 witnessed the low-

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est export in that respective quarter in the past 6 years. The lowest export during the mentioned period was in the month of April 2020. It was worth $0.5 million only. The highest export was in the month of March and January in the year 2019 and 2020, respectively. Figure no. 2 represents India’s cotton yarn exports of yarns other than sewing thread. The export of these yarns was highest in the month of March and September in the year 2019 and 2020, respectively. Export of these yarns was lowest in 2020 and witnessed a major drop in April same year that was pos-

sibly due to covid-19 pandemic across the globe. April 2020 witnessed the lowest export in both the years. That export was worth $0.1 million. Since ages, India is one of the leading producers of cotton fabric. India’s export of cotton fabrics was highest in the year 2019 while in 2020 it dropped and was lowest when compared with the export between 2016-2020. In 2019, India’s export was worth $1.5 million but it dwindled to $1.3 million in 2020. Among both the years, highest export was done was worth $0.15 million in March 2019.

COTTON UPDATE

SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE FOR BENEFITTING ENVIRONMENT, ECONOMY & INDUSTRY MANISH DAGA Cottonguru Sustainable Agriculture for benefitting Environment, Economy & Industry Part 2 ELS Cotton: Golden opportunity for India Would you believe it if I said, “There is a shortage of cotton in India?” You would immediately retort back with a curt reply, “You must be kidding”. You will most certainly corroborate your response with logical facts like India is the largest producer of cotton India is amongst Top 3 exporter of cotton For the last many years, India has remained a ‘Cotton surplus’ Top consumer of cotton India is most likely to have its highest carry overstock this year While all of these are true, we fail to realize “What does India’s Textile Industry need?” The fact remains that India is facing an acute shortage of 2 types of cotton. Organic cotton ELS cotton Facts and figures justifying the need to grow more Organic cotton were mentioned in Part 1. The current article highlights the need to incentivize and enhance the production of the required quality of ELS cotton to meet the burning need of the Textile industry and increase the income of cotton farmers. ELS COTTON In India, cotton consumption has increased from 15.4 million bales during 2002-03 to around 32 million bales

(weighing 170 kg. each) during 202021. The growth rate is increasing lately at a much faster rate as compared to that of 10 years ago. The production of cotton has stagnated to a great extent in recent years and is expected to be around 35 to 36 million bales during 2020-21. Despite having a surplus domestic cotton production, Indian mills need to import cotton from different countries. The main reason behind this fact is the non-availability of enough extra-long-staple cotton commonly known as ELS cotton in India. Technically, the cotton fiber whose 2.5% span length is more than 32.5 mm is considered ELS cotton. As per the general trade definition, the cotton fibers whose staple length is equal to or longer than 1 3/8 inches i.e. 34.9 mm are called ELS cotton. In India, varieties such as Suvin, DCH 32, and a minor amount of MCU 5 (superfine) can be categorized as ELS cotton. Although ELS cotton represents only one percent of India’s cotton production, it is the fastest-growing segment of the cotton market during 2020-21. Huge mismatch in production and consumption of ELS cotton ELS production has come down from 24.5 lakh bales in 1983-84 to a mere 4 lakh bales in 2020-21. The estimated production of 4 lakh bales consists of mainly DCH32 which comes from Madhya Pradesh and Karnataka. Production of Suvin, grown only in Tamil Nadu, is very negligible (less than 1500 bales).

The requirement of ELS cotton is over 1 million bales with the potential to grow to 2 million bales. India regularly imports 0.5-0.6 million bales of ELS to meet its requirement of higher quality yarn for fabrics and ready-mades. Buyers and importers of ELS cotton lament that India is lagging in ELS cotton while countries such as the US and Egypt have done considerable research to improve ELS cotton varieties like Pima and Giza. Better fiber properties like 2.5 percent span length, higher tensile strength and micronaire, and above all, absence of contamination, makes imported ELS more attractive. The Government and Textile industry needs to take special efforts to increase both the acreage and productivity of ELS cotton to reduce the dependence on imported cotton. Agriculture Scientists must develop new cotton varieties, which are extra-long and have good maturity values, strength, and elongation. BT varieties of ELS cotton may be useful in increasing productivity. In short, there is an urgent need to boost ELS production as Indian mills are exposed to the risk of huge premiums and a considerable amount of foreign exchange is spent on importing it. Challenges in ELS cotton production Low availability of quality seeds that can assure better germination and crop purity ELS is a very long duration crop (182210 days) Yields are very low (less than 6 quintals cotton per acre). Ginning out-turn is 26-30 % as against

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COTTON UPDATE

34-40 % for another cotton. If we fail to provide the right impetus to farmers growing ELS cotton, we may well have to import our entire requirement of ELS cotton shortly. Cottonguru® Suggestions: •

Government must draft the new National Fibre Policy to encourage farmers to produce more quantity of ELS cotton with special emphasis on DCH-32 and Suvin.

•

Research Institutions and seed companies must be incentivized to ensure the best quality of seeds for increasing strength, yield, and ginning out-turn of ELS cotton.

•

Farmers who grow the extra-long-

staple cotton must be incentivized in terms of price by increasing the MSP. Solution: We need to build a robust and traceable supply chain for conventional and Organic ELS cotton. COVID19 pandemic is an opportunity in disguise for stakeholders to build their “very own ELS cotton supply chain” as there is huge economic potential for the Textile industry and farmers are more open to adaptation. Cottonguru® is assisting many such Textile Corporates and Brands to build robust, sustainable, traceable, and profitable supply chains. Cottonguru® assists in projects for Organic & conventional ELS cotton and con-

tamination-controlled cotton based on a professional turnkey basis backed by its expertise and experience of over 100 years and a strong network of over 100,000 cotton farmers across India. Conclusion: While India tops the world in cotton production and exports, there is little to celebrate in terms of ELS cotton. ELS Production presently is just over 1% of the total Indian cotton crop. Huge dependence of Textile industry on imported cotton to meet its requirements The market for long-staple and extralong-staple cotton is likely to grow substantially in India due to the growing demands of finer high-value textiles for both domestic and export markets.

Core Purpose and Mission Cottonguru® is the leader in agriculture and textile advisory services across the country. It is in cotton industry since 1903 and have strived hard to reach this leading position. It has vast experience of working with the smallest of farmers and topmost consumers, DNA of technical and Marketing expertise and impeccable Brand image has given it a clear edge over our competitors. Cottonguru® wishes to and will continue to contribute to the value addition of cotton and agriculture in every possible manner. Change is the only thing that is constant in the world. Cottonguru® Group has survived for over 100 years uninterrupted overcoming all calamities mainly because of deep rooted ethical values and ability to adapt to the changes. With a unique blend of tradition and technology, we have reached the coveted stage of "Think Cotton – Think Cottonguru®"

Core Purpose and Mission The company runs on clear mission to assist farmers in improving yield and quality. It strives to help cotton users in locating regular sources of sustainable and contamination-free cotton at nominal prices. It aim to prevent the arbitrary use of plastic and paper objects and replace it with cotton-based products which are ‘natural, eco-friendly renewable resource’ (E. g. cotton handkerchief v/s tissue paper, cotton bags v/s plastic or paper bags) thereby, helping save the environment.

Vision Unlocking the socio-economic potential of agriculture for global prosperity.

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER

HEMP AISHWARYA PATIL Department of Textile Design, Sophia Polytechnic, Mumbai

groups, thus working with the partition of the fiber from the stem.

Hemp is obtained from the Cannabis sativa plant, the hemp filaments are notable for their solidness and toughness. In their crude state hemp strands are profound earthy colored to yellowish dark. Hemp was one of the first and most regular plants to be made into texture around 10,000 years prior.

Field/dew retting is a kind of retting that should be possible on-ranch, while different varieties require a special service. Water retting includes drenching the dry hemp stems in microorganismsfilled water tanks, lakes, or waterways.

Harvesting of Hemp fiber Hemp fiber is grown in a calm environment. It needs three and a half months with 10-12 crawls of precipitation to develop sufficiently. Hemp plants are additionally thermophilic and heliotropic, implying that they need a decent measure of warmth and sun, without which seed creation and biomass are settled. Beginning in Central Asia, it is presently cultivated in various nations from the USA, Italy, Canada, Germany, France, Philippines, and India.

new the soil with nutrients, oxygen, nitrogen. The underlying foundations of the hemp plant disperse and retain the energy of downpour, which keeps the seeds in place, and likewise ensures and treats the soil.

The plant-developed fibers are thickly planted and grow up to 2-3 meters tall. They are collected after their development. These seeds can be utilized for additional harvests and sold as food.

The base advantage of a hemp crop is as a turn crop. Hemp improves and balances out the soil where ranchers develop the harvests and provide them with weed-free farms.

The hemp plant helps in recovering and detoxifying the soil. Apart from the normal advantages, falling leaves re-

Hemp fiber handling

Figure 1: Hemp Plant

Compound retting utilizes acids and unique chemicals to separate the segments of the bast filaments. They are bubbled in medicines comprising of synthetic substances like Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Sulphite, Hydrochloric corrosive, and Oxalic corrosive. Decortication Hemp decortication is the cycle that eliminates the intense, woody inside of the hemp plant and isolates it from its delicate outside. Hackling Hackling is when short and mediumsized filaments are brushed out of the tail.

Hemp handling does not require numerous synthetics, however, may require other engineered filaments and gums relying upon the item that will be made. The fiber is produced using a stalk and goes through numerous cycles to foster good results. Retting

Figure 2: Harvesting of Hemp

Retting is a cycle that utilizes the activity of miniature life forms and dampness on plants to break up or decay away a large part of the cell tissues and gelatins encompassing bast-fiber

Figure 3: Hemp Fiber

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER

Spinning To additionally treat the filaments for a better yarn, they are gone through a box of boiling water before being turned. This is known as wet turning. It mollifies the gelatin and considers further detachment of strands. Dry turning is additionally conceivable, yet the result is coarser. It is additionally less expensive. Baling Hemp filaments are at last baled for long-haul stockpiling or transportation. Enormous, round bunches work best as they take into consideration better drying. and the hemp isn't just about as firmly stuffed as in squares. They ought to be put away in a dry, less damp climate restricting any kind of water entrance to keep away from form. Utilizing plastic net wrap and twine would additionally guarantee its uprightness. Hemp Fiber Properties It is exceptionally impervious to hurtful UV beams and willnot blur in the daylight. It is speedy drying and forestalls the development of microscopic organisms and buildup, making it hostile to microbial. Hemp withstands washing – each time it is washed, the strands become gentler and better. It additionally sheds an infinitesimal layer that abstains from ruining and uncovered a new surface. The actual texture is completely biodegradable and recyclable, adding to manageability. Even though it is difficult to blanch the normally dim shade of hemp fiber, it tends to be colored in splendid or more obscure shadings and does not blur without any problem.

The elasticity of hemp fiber is more prominent than other vegetal strands and twice that of cotton. This demonstrates that it is undeniably more solid and can be utilized for mechanical items requiring a sturdier texture. The hemp strands have minute recesses, making them incredibly breathable and retentive. The texture assists one with remaining cool in blistering climate and warm in cool climate due to the catacombic development, which permits air caught in the strands to be warmed by the body. The fiber has low versatility, so items made with hemp textures hold their shape.

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References •

https://www.the-sustainable-fashioncollective.com/2014/12/02/hemp-fibre-fabric-eco-benefit/

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https://www.nugistics.io/hemp-fiberextraction-processing-properties/

Image source •

https://arc-anglerfish-arc2-prod-pmn. s3.amazonaws.com/public/KB2HJMSUEFGHLO2EDE7P6WRJEY.jpg

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https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/news/ images/news-stories/2019/ag-naturalresources/ukhempharvest%20web.jpg

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https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1312/fs1312main-1.jpg

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https://www.unnatisilks.com/blog/wpcontent/uploads/2019/06/Group-2-2. jpg

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https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e4039a_531d48f0b94340799e 5 bdb0 a 4 6 4 1 1 2 7 d~ mv2.jpg/ v1/ fit / w_320%2Ch_600%2Cal_c%2Cq_80/file. jpg

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https://previews.123rf.com/images/mahroch/mahroch1007/ mahroch100700050/7468070-detailof-the-rope-made-of-natural-fibres-ofhemp.jpg

Uses of Hemp fiber Attire and Textiles - Hemp fiber has been utilized for millennia to make cloth for garments and materials. The material has various profitable properties like UV security and its microbial/ hypo-allergenic advantages make it ideal for delicate skin. Shoes - Hemp has additionally been utilized to make shoes that are agreeable and durable rather than cowhide. Calfskin can be costly; however, hemp fiber is much less expensive, not as tedious, and does not hurt creatures. Paper - The most widely recognized and old utilization of hemp fiber is for paper. It can be a fill-in for wood fiber in mash and paper creation. It offers 4-5 times longer fiber and higher elasticity, adding to higher tear opposition. Ropes and Cords - Hemp is perhaps the best fiber to make ropes and ropes because of its toughness and is more grounded than jute, material, and cotton. It was likewise utilized for sail apparatus and anchor strings.

Figure 4: Hemp Ropes and Cords

ly development pace of over 30%. It will just keep on expanding as individuals roll out the improvement to feasible, eco-accommodating items with little mischief to the climate. From the different properties of hemp, we can conclude that hemp is a material with a fantastic extent of supportability. It is not just natural but is also climate well disposed and modest in every aspect. Hemp is eco-accommodating and likewise benefits the soil and air where it is developed.

The flexibility of Hemp adds to its year-

YARN REPORT

YARN EXPORT MAINTAINS TEMPO IN APRIL, COTTON TAKES LEAD TEXTILE BEACON Basic textiles comprising fibers spun and filament yarns shipment were worth US$1,053 million or INR7.730 crore, accounting for about 3.4% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. We have intentionally refrained from analyzing year-onyear comparison (April 2021 with April 2020) since April 2020 was an abnormal month with values abysmally low and outliers to the trend. Spun yarns shipment totaled 138 million kg worth US$491 million or INR3,600 crore. The unit value realization of all types of spun yarn averaged US$2.3.55 per kg. Bangladesh was the largest market for spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value. China followed by 14% of the total value. Cotton yarn export was 110 million kg worth US$408 million (INR2,997 crore). These were destined to 79 countries at an average price of US$3.70 a kg, up to US cents 25 from the previous month. Bangladesh was the top imported of cotton yarn, China, Portugal, Vietnam, and Egypt. 100% man-made fiber yarn exports were at 8.8 million kg, comprising 1.7 million kg of acrylic yarn, 3.3 million kg of viscose yarn, and 3.6 million kg of polyester yarn. Viscose yarn was worth US$11.5 million or INR85 crore, exported at an average price of US$3.48 per kg in April to 29 countries. Of these, the major market was Turkey, followed by Bangladesh and Belgium. Polyester spun

yarns export was worth US$8.6 million exported to 41 countries at an average unit price of US$2.37 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by the USA and Brazil. Blended spun yarns worth US$6.6 million were exported in April, including 1.6 million kg of PC yarns and 0.5 million kg of PV yarns. Bangladesh was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Brazil while Iran was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Turkey. All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled just 8 million kg, valued at US$11 million or INR85 crore. Cotton shipment in April was 11.6 lakh bales worth INR2,800 crore or US$382 million. This takes the total export to 78 lakh bales worth US$16,867 crore or US$2,322 million in the first eight months of the 2020-21 marketing season. China was the largest market for Indian cotton export during April, followed by Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Indonesia. Export price realization for cotton averaged INR142 a kg or US cents 87.56 per pound during April. This was much below Cot look A index, the global spot price benchmark, and higher than domestic spot price for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6. During the month, Cotlook averaged US$91.15 per pound while Shankar-6 was at US cents 78.22 per pound, which implied Indian cotton was still competitive in the global market.

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FIBRE REPORT

FIBRE PRICES EASE IN MAY ENTERING LULL DEMAND SEASON TEXTILE BEACON Polyester Polyester staple fibre prices eased in China and declined in Pakistan but were up in India during May. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the market saw offers and discussions falling in the first half of the month but recovered partially towards the end. Trading prices were below offers, indicating a discount in firm deals were under negotiation. In Fujian, nominations marched down and discussions trended lower. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were lowered to 6.65-6.80 Yuan a kg (US$1.03-1.06 a kg, down US cent 1) in Jiangsu and Zhejiang while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down similarly at US$1.04-1.07 a kg. In Taiwan, offer for 1.4D were down US cents 4 at US$1.10 a kg FOB. In Pakistan, polyester fibre market was mostly shut after the country returned to lockdown amid Eid holidays. No change was reported in prices in Karachi market during the month after offers were lowered by PakRa5 in the last week of April. Thus, 1.4D PSF offers averaged at PakRs.200-202 a kg (US$1.31-1.32 a kg, down US cents 5). In India, producers kept their offers stable for May seeing downstream markets hard hit by restrictions to contain the second wave of the Covid-19. Offers for H2 April were lowered and thus May average were down compared to April at INR96.75 a kg (US$1.32 a kg) for 1.2D and at INR96 a kg (US$1.31 a kg) for 1.4D. With India and Pakistan continuing with lockdown, although partially and China entering a seasonal low, demand will remain depressed in coming month.

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Nylon Nylon-6 staple fiber offers were raised 7% in China in May as upstream caprolactum as well as polyamide or nylon chip cost were raised. producers reported breakeven business, despite weak demand. Prices were down at lower end for high-end values goods woollike grade items closing May. 1.5D offers averaged 16.18-16.75 Yuan a kg (US$2.51-2.60 a kg, up US cents 14 on the month). Acrylic Acrylic staple fibre prices tumbled in China and India during May but gained somehow in Pakistan. Offers for Taiwan origin 1.5D acrylic fibre stayed frozen month on month to average US$2.95-3.10 a kg FOB Taiwan. In China, reference prices of cottontype staple fiber, tow and top were

down 11% during the month. Althoguh there were limited orders from spun yarn producers, demand was moderate. More than half of all acrylic fibre capacities have been offline after acrylonitrile prices went up at a higher speed in March. The industrial run rate reached a low of 55% this week. Prices for medium-length and cottontype acrylic fibre 1.5D and 3D tow averaged 17.12-17.62 Yuan a kg (US$2.662.74 a kg, down US cents 33). In Pakistan, overseas offers for acrylic fibre jumped 30% in Karachi market during May. 1.2D ASF offers averaged PakRs.452.50 a kg (US$2.95 a kg). In India, producers lowered their offer by about 7% as acrylonitrile cost fell 11% in May month on month. Offers in May averaged INR232.50 a kg (US$3.17-3.20 a kg, down US cents 16).

FIBRE REPORT

Viscose Viscose staple fibre prices were lowered in China and Pakistan during May, in line with weak demand from spinners and lower spun yarn prices, while they were rolled over in India. In China, producers offered large discounts, so transaction volumes increased somewhat. Downstream mills made massive procurement at low price levels, so inventory pressure on fibre producers eased somewhat. Prices for both medium-end and high-end goods were

pegged lower while spot prices were pegged lower than offers. In spot, average prices fell US cents 8 with 1.5D at 13.90 Yuan a kg (US$2.16 a kg) and 1.2D to 14.48 Yuan a kg (US$2.25 a kg).

maintained stable in May in expectation that recovery in demand will pick up after the Eid holidays, whereas the Covid crisis appear to have weakened. Offers for 1.5D VSF in Karachi averaged PakRs340-345 a kg (US$2.222.25 a kg, down US cents 13-15).

In Taiwan, offers for 1.5D were raised, in contrast by US cents 4 to US$2.10 a kg FOB, citing costlier raw material pulp cost.

In India, producers’ offers for 1.2-1.5D remained unchanged at INR195-197 a kg (US$2.67-2.70 a kg).

In Pakistan, producers’ offers were lowered in the last week of April as lockdown and Eid holidays did not see any trading activity. Offers were

Overall, viscose fibre prices are expected to remain soft amid with bearish expectation in June.

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EVENT UPDATE

A REPORT ON SDC EC INDIA WEBINAR END TO END: PROCESSING AND WASTE MANAGEMENT Day: Friday, 14th MAY 2021 Time: 5:30 PM to 7:30 pm Online Platform Virtual Panel Discussions MS Teams Participants: 227

Event Sponsors: AMA Herbal Group Companies, Britacel Silicones Ltd., Archroma Ltd., Ion Exchange (I) Ltd, and DR. JD The attendees were welcomed by Dr. Vishaka Karnad, Hon. Trustee, SDC EC who briefed the audience on SDC and introduced the Moderators of the two Panel Discussions. PANEL DISCUSSION 1. Wet Processing Technologies and Methods Moderator: Mr. Anjani Prasad Managing Director & Member of Global Leadership Team, Archroma Pvt. Ltd. Panelists: Mr. Arindam Choudhuri (Business Head – Global, Britacel Silicones Ltd.) Mr. Yawar Ali Shah (Co-Founder & CEO, AMA Herbal Group Companies) Mr. Klaus Bergmann (MD of Erbatech India PVT. LTD., Director Sales & Director Textile Technology of Erbatech GmbH Germany) Mr. Anjani Prasad introduced all the panelists and the theme of wet processing technologies and methods. The

safety he said was of prime importance - safe purchase, safe process, and safe disposal. It is important to take care of chemical management. Check for RSL, MRSL at the starting point, if inputs are right only then, the output will be right. It is important to make the right choices for purchasing dyes and chemicals and we make the right processes. Inappropriate choices can have a hazardous impact on life and the environment. He suggested that the discussion would be around the solutions to processing both improving efficiency and process enhancement. It is important to consider if the Plant is being used for more enhanced features and efficiency to get the right values on the ecological and social aspects of sustainability. There are a lot of areas to improve on namely to improve productivity and efficiency ratios, to have reduced lead times for value generation of products, of the company with sustainability along with enhanced functionality features. All this considering enhanced social economics as the goal. With this, he posted some questions to the panelists. Mr. Arindam Choudhuri stressed the importance of adopting efficient machinery and new technologies saving water and energy voluntarily by Companies. He suggested the move towards continuous process rather than discontinu-

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EVENT UPDATE

chemistry concept for textile finishes and the usage of Sustainable Certified chemicals. He mentioned the advantages of Chemical Fission that were found to yield uniform particle size, better finish batch to batch, equal surface preparation, reduction in silicone consumption, and ease of crosslinking with organic molecules. Textile finishes need to be sourced from renewable, natural raw materials, that achieve high levels of textile performance while radically lowering carbon emissions. The activation of silicone openchain polymer emulsion yields component that is readily reactive with easy penetration, giving durable finish, low consumption, and uniform softness.

ous process, ZLD or water harvesting or recycling, installation of the solar system across the free space inside dye house to save natural energy, design dye house premises efficiently to save daylight, process optimization to reduce the machine run time, reduce the inorganic chemical use in the process, reduce the sludge after ETP, or concentrated chemical use to reduce petrochemical base packing material and air pollution while transporting the chemicals. Non-PVA/Non-Synthetic (Acrylic /Resin/Binder) base Sizing agent, use of hot water to de-size natural starch which can easily be removed from fabric in PTR washing range (without enzymatic de-sizing) saving on one process/hold time 8 – 12 hours, electrical rotation cost & labor man-hour, etc. He suggested Pad–Steam de-size over Pad–batch de-size for regular/conventional sizing process. In the Pad batch, you need rotation that leads to an increase in lead time, electrical energy consumption, and wastage of water. Caledon Vat pigment dyeing system for light and pastel shades over CPB/PDPS System with no washing required, in Caledon dyeing, Hydrose and Soda Ash replacement by chemicals, Low temperature, Soaping, Bleaching, RT de-size/bio-polish, Resin. Avoid Sanforize/Calendar whichever possible so that extra mechanical process can be avoided and energy cost reduced. Purchase and concentrated chemicals to avoid unnecessary packing material wastage, limit the transport of chemicals, saving on utility/energy/raw material. Knits Continuous bleaching and CPB dyeing to avoid salt/time/energy consumption. He touched on the Green

Mr. Yawar Ali Shah said that there are millions of dollars spent on sustainability. We are responsible enough to make textile processing sustainable. We need to plan the Exhaust method in garment dyeing, planning that is necessary, as prevention is better than cure. To illustrate, he compared the process of Natural Dyeing as compared to re-

active dyeing. He proved from R&D studies that the saving of auxiliaries, dyeing time, and dyeing at room temperature, clearly directed to zero consumption of energy, saving the time of dyeing and remarkable reduction of BOD, COD, TDS, and pH values with no serious modifications. Mr. Klaus Bergmann emphasized the need for salt-free dyeing or strongly reduced salt dyeing. As the textile industry faces the problem of water. He spoke on the key advantages of the continuous dyeing process with low production costs, easy reproducibility, no enzymatic treatment for hairiness, and no salt in the effluent. It is important to go ahead in adopting safe technologies. He compared the consumption values of continuous dyeing and discontinuous dyeing with a 60% reduction in water 52% steam and 45% electricity consumption. There is a potential demand for new technologies, strongly reduced or salt-free dyeing of knitted as compared to the Jet/Soft Flow dyeing of Standard Reactive dyeing which requires (was 100g/lt salt was too much) five times the amount of salt. Mr. Arindam recommended bio-elimination. He suggested that people from the fashion and processing houses must shorten the material to liquor ratio and improve chemi-

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EVENT UPDATE

cal efficiency for old machines by using modern technologies. Mr. Anjani Prasad added that safe selection of products and check on MSDS. OECD can be checked for biodegradability. OECD can be checked whether it will biodegrade on its own. In reality jet technology leads to 2-5%/kg fiber loss which is not sustainable. Solvent-based or acid-based processes are not beneficial. Bio polishing process can be avoided. Mr. Yawar Ali Shah added that brands are recycling 20-30% recycled with fresh. This sustainable concept not only saves energy costs and reduces landfill space. Upcycling of garments has a lot of scopes. Mr. Anjani Prasad gave an example of stripping or shredding waste for regeneration for Viscose, paper, nonwovens, nitrocellulose for construction, etc. Yawar Ali Shah said that what is a waste for one is considered as a resource by another e.g., pomegranate rind considered as waste is a source of dye. He gave an example of the extraction of Ethyl alcohol from Sugarcane for sanitizer. Waste from any source has utility and has to be renewed as a resource. PANEL DISCUSSION 2: End of pipeline solutions and waste management solutions Moderator: Mr. Ajay Popat, President, Ion Exchange (I) Ltd. Panelists: Dr. K. Ramesh, Tamilnadu Water Investment Company Limited, Tirupur, Tamil Nadu. Mr. Soren Robenhagen, Sales Director, Industrial Water, Aquaporin, Denmark. Dr. Jaideep Dudhbhate, Textile Consultant, Pune, India. •

Mr. Ajay Popat introduced each of the topics and speakers and the topic of waste management. Textile Waste Water- Current Limitations of conventional effluent treatment processes. The discussion, therefore, focused on the New technologies / Drivers listed here: Recovery of salts, dyes, energy and water, Automation & Digitalization, Remote Sensing, Monitoring Control, Optimize OPEX, Sustainable Treatment Technologies, Biological processes with lower, Energy Footprint, Sludge generation, Advanced Oxidation, Electrocoagulation, Non-vortex cavitation, PCO, Affordable ZLD- AMBC and OARO / FO. Pollution and increased demand have made good quality water-scarce and expensive due to stringent discharge norms.

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ZLD is mandated in textile units having effluent discharge more than 25 m3/day & also for all textile units in clusters irrespective of their wastewater discharge Textile units face the folloing limitations for ZLD implementation :

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Capital expenditure of INR 8-9 crore /MLD excluding land cost Operating cost of approximately INR 225/m3

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Cost of Electricity from 3000-15000 kW/day ZLD Increases the cost of production by 25-30 %

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Generation of quantum of hazardous solid waste & increase in disposal costs

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High Carbon footprint with power consumption from 8-10 kW/m3, Thermal evaporators require 20-40 kW/ m3

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Inefficient functioning of Primary & Secondary involving Biological treatment units leading to choking & scaling of membrane & evaporators which increases expenditure due to repair/replacement.

Mr. Ajay shared the TERI Analysis Report and indicated the technologies and drivers to resolve the limitations and problems of the industry. Dr. K. Ramesh presented a Case study on Waste Mixed Salt minimization Technique in ZLD Process. The Waste salt generation from RO brine Management system comprised of Mechanical Vapor Recompression (MVR) type Evaporator, Multiple Effect Evaporator (MEE), and Agitated Thin Film Dryer (ATFD). He spoke on the high waste mixed salt generation due to crystallization of salt from RO brine, generation and disposal issues of considerable amounts of fly ash from boiler due to salt crystallization. 80% salt recovered from the wastewater can be reused in the dyeing process. No fresh salt is required. The remaining salt (20%) is waste mixed salt with contaminants and is being stored. He suggested the Treated brine Reuse Technology to reduce waste mixed salt generation. In another Case study, on Salt Separation and Purification in ZLD Process using Membrane Technology. The improved brine reuse technology with NF, Membrane Distillation (MD) is based on Solar thermal energy for Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) with Zero Waste Salt (ZWS) generation. Solid waste reduction techniques and disposal methods. Sludge reduction techniques in ZLD Process/Water recycling Plants. Elimination of primary chemical treatment and treating of combined wastewater (TDS < 10g/L) directly through Aerobic biological treatment (Extended Aeration). For Hardness reduction, WAC resin can be implemented instead of Lime-Soda Softening(LSS) treatment. The quantity of Chemicals required to treat the WAC’s sidestream waste is very minimal than the LSS. Disposal and utilization methods were discussed where, the Bio-sludge was stored, mixed with biomass briquettes for burning in boilers. The Chemical sludge for new plants, manufacturing of fly ash brick (from the Captive Power Plant/Boiler) with the lime sludge was proposed. Currently, Chemical sludge lime is being sent to nearby cement industries for Co-processing. Integration of Solar Energy for brine management to eliminate ash generation and disposal issues. Brine Management using solar energy to eliminate ash generation from the boiler. Application of Membrane Distillation (MD) system instead of MEE and use of a solar thermal system to generate hot water (at 90oC) which can be used as a heating medium instead of steam. Advanced Oxidation Process (AOP) is a Sludge-less

EVENT UPDATE Technology, to reduce COD and Colour removal. In current treatment methods, Biological treatment is capable of removing COD and BOD but not color. Generally, chemical treatment and Polymeric resin (WBA) are extensively used to remove the color from the secondary treated effluent. High sludge generation from chemical treatment and liquid waste stream from WBA resin is difficult to handle and high Opex. Electrooxidation (EO) to replace WBA and Chemical treatment methods. Electrooxidation offers a good reduction in COD and Colour if implemented as a downstream treatment unit to the secondary treatment system. EO process can also be used as a standalone treatment unit to recycle the brine solution (Post hardness removal). Zero-Sludge from EO Process and hence no sludge handling and disposal issues. Mr. Soren Robenhagen spoke on Aquaporin’s sustainable re-use of water in industrial applications. He introduced Forward Osmosis and explained how it works. Forward osmosis uses natural energy in the form of osmotic pressure to transport water through a membrane. This process enables efficient extraction of water, leaving challenging contaminants behind and reducing effluent volume. The benefits of applying forward osmosis

ered (20x concentration). Stable water flux at 8-10 LMH, >5 LMH from 90-95 %. Good membrane chemical and physical tolerance. Another Case Study on FO post RO in ZLD scheme with FO brine concentration. LD scheme with FO, which pre-concentrates the brine concentration up to 150,000 ppm and reduces the volume by up to 90 % before it is sent for evaporation. Dr. Jaideep Dudhbhate contributed to the topic on the end of the pipeline solutions for the reduction of wastes/ sludges generated in the wastewater treatment plants. He presented several case studies and pilot treatments for the reduction in color and chemical sludge quantity to 0.5-1 ton/d. Although lime-ferrous treatment is eliminated, tertiary treatment was needed. However biological sludge generation still takes place (excess bio sludge generation 0.25-0.35 Kg / Kg COD reduced). He explained the sludge-less biological process with a reduction of 90-95%. Some solutions in textile wastewater effluents were suggested tertiary decolorization after biological treatment. Low energy requirements–almost 50% power saving in COD reduction. When there is excess bio sludge along with less chemical sludge, less requirement for downstream sludge handling. The Panel Discussions ended with a Vote of Thanks by Mr. Sandeep Singh, Hon. Trustee, SDC EC. The chatbox had several questions that were answered in the Chat and few queries would be answered through the mail. A feedback form was administered and certificates were issued to participants and all the sponsors for their generous support extended through their sponsorship. Heartfelt thanks to the Sponsors of this Event and the SDC EC Team for making the program successful. Looking forward to furthering interactions and collaborations in our endeavors for learning and enrichment. -DR. VISHAKA ASHISH KARNAD (CTEXT.FTI) Associate Professor, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan

in textile wet-processing. Reduce water consumption for washing and rinsing operations. Recycle rinsing waters within the wet-processing or reuse the water for utilities. Reduce the effluent volume sent to the effluent treatment plant and evaporator to save costs. Recover chemicals (dyes/salts/metals) for reuse. The concentrated “draw solution” drives the FO process. Regeneration of the draw solution is often needed to maintain the driving force and to extract clean water as a product. Water is recovered from both upstream wet processing and downstream in ETP/ZLD. Cut energy consumption - reduce carbon footprint and operating costs. Presenting a Case Study on Wool & cotton dyehouse wastewater, Mr. Soren Robenhagen explained that water-saving and reuse allow for 6.7 EUR/m3 saving in bleaching and dying operations. 95 % clean water recov-

Honorary Secretary, SDC EC & Hon. Secretary “Textiles” SIG TI

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Unveiling Leather (May 2021)

Articles inside

COIR PRODUCTS EXPORT OPPORTUNITIES by Dr. J. Anandha Kumar

HEMP by Aishwarya Patil SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

RECYCLING LEATHER by Ashwini Tarte and Dr. Suman D. Mundkur

COTTON UPDATE

SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE FOR BENEFITTING ENVIRONMENT, ECONOMY & INDUSTRY by Manish Daga

REVIEW PAPER

REJUVENATING FOLK PAINTINGS ON TEXTILE PRODUCTS: A REVIEW by Nikita Sachwani

BEING WHOLESOME by Pearl Bhansal

LEATHER MADE OUT OF CACTUS by Dr. N. N. Mahapatra

LEATHER PROCESSING by Vaibhavi Kokane

FUTURE OF DESIGN EDUCATION CHALLENGING BUT WORTHWHILE... by Sonali Brid

HR FOCUS

ELEVATING YOUR CAREER IN LEATHER DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY by Nalanda

IN CONVERSATION WITH Dr. K. J. SREERAM Director of CSIR-CLRI

COVER STORY