Retail Beauty 72 Winter 2022 by The Intermedia Group

72 WINTER 2022

COMFORT FOOD FOR DRY SKIN.

Beauty Within The Rise of

Ingestible Skincare

INTERVIEW

MCPHERSON’S CEO GRANT PECK

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Scent Fragrance Market Insights

Based on customer reviews

www.thejojobacompany.com.au

Clinically Proven Results

Based on customer reviews

133% increase in skin firmness✲ 9% increase in skin collagen✲ 24% decrease in frown lines✲✲

EDITOR’S LETTER

“This issue, we have interviewed a range of experts to debunk any myths when it comes to the ingestible beauty market, which continues to grow and evolve on a daily basis.”

Some of Retail Beauty’s favourite beauty ingestibles showcased in this issue.

The Winter Chill

elcome to the Winter edition of Retail Beauty. As the temperature drops, it seems consumer appetite for a holistic beauty and wellness routine continues to grow. I, like many beauty enthusiasts, no longer rely on serums and moisturisers to maintain my skin. Instead, I have an array of pills, powders, capsules, gummies and effervescents sitting in my cupboard, that I should take more regularly rather than haphazardly, to improve either my skin, hair, nails, sleep, mood and motivation – or a combination of all of the above. But how many of us REALLY understand the science behind them? This issue, we have interviewed a range of experts to debunk any myths when it comes to the ingestible beauty market, which continues to grow and evolve on a daily basis. Michelle Teodoro from Mintel takes a deep dive into the trends and innovations in the ingestible beauty market, page 44, while I headed into the studio with the talented photographer Brandee Meir to shoot some of Retail Beauty’s favourite beauty supplements on the market right now, page 42. We caught up with Dr Tim Crowe who explains the science behind the health benefits when it comes to collagen supplements, page 48, while Nikita Papas, one of our newest regular contributors, interviews key opinion leaders for his feature on Ingestible Beauty, page 54. Another new contributor we have recently had come on board is Tashi Jade Bell, known to her almost 80,000 Instagram followers as @paint_bytashijadebell. Beauty has worked as therapy for the former lawyer, who, for this this issue, interviewed Judy Deuchar, General Manager at TVSN, to uncover what it takes to ‘make or break’ a beauty brand on a television shopping network, page 58. Our resident beauty business and finance guru Elisabeth King interviews Grant Peck, Chief Executive Officer at McPherson’s Consumer Products, page 12, and covers Weleda’s new Skin Food SKU, showcased on our cover, page 10. Meanwhile, fragrance expert Clayton Ilolahia, shares updates and insights courtesy of Fragrances of the World, page 78, and reports on the increasing concern of sustainability in corporate strategy, page 80. 4| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

In other scent-related news, I chat to Marie-Lise Jonak, who in conjunction with her son, founded Ormaie, a 100% natural, cruelty-free and vegan perfume and candle range, page 76. With makeup making a huge comeback in a post-Covid world, I caught up with Rimmel London and Covergirl Makeup Director Hayley Dutton, page 66, and National Education Manager for Revlon & Elizabeth Arden Nica Marcello, page 74. Both share their expert insights on what it takes to succeed in the industry and the top winter trends you need to know. I also had the pleasure of interviewing the gorgeous Aussie supermodel Nicole Trunfio, who was in town briefly to talk about her role as global brand ambassador for Inika Organic, page 62, while celebrity makeup artist Michael Brown shares his top tips on achieving ‘complexion perfection’, page 68. Thanks so much to the Mecca Hosts and Specialists for taking the time out to chat to me for our inaugural Beauty Breakthrough feature, page 64, and to the Direct Chemist Outlet Beauty Buyers for sharing their top beauty picks, page 72. With product launches and events back on the calendar, it has been an absolute pleasure catching up with many of you face-to-face to hear again, and for those I haven’t had chance to catch up with, or met yet in person, please don’t hesitate to drop me a line at mruzzene@intermedia. com.au or DM me on one of our many social media channels listed below next to my signature. And finally, a huge thanks to our new designer Sanja Spuzanic, who is helping Retail Beauty continue to evolve our look and feel. All the best,

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SOLUTION DRIVEN MEN’S SKINCARE & HYBRID COSMETICS

VEGAN FRIENDLY

MADE IN THE UK

“Innovative new range that blurs the barriers between effective skincare and colour-corrective cosmetics.” “British brand Shakeup Cosmetics has lived up to its name from the start... This is one of those brands where you can’t wait to see what it’ll come up with next.”

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Contents Subscribe to the Retail Beauty online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more.

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12 INTERVIEW Grant Peck, CEO and Managing Director of McPherson’s 16 INDUSTRY NEWS Latest local and international news 32 PHOTOSHOOT Winter Wonders

60 PHOTOSHOOT The makeup edit 62 5 MINUTES WITH Nicole Trunfio

CONTACT DETAILS

64 BEAUTY ADVICE Mecca

Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: aferrari@intermedia.com.au

66 HAVE YOU MET? Hayley Dutton, Makeup Director, Rimmel London and Covergirl.

34 FEATURE Dr Yip de-codes skincare formulations

68 INFLUENCER What is complexion perfection? Michael Brown.

38 PHOTOSHOOT Beauty Within

72 BUYERS LISTS Direct Chemist Outlet

40 TRENDS Ingestible beauty innovations towards holistic wellness

74 MY JOURNEY Nica Marcello, National Education Manager, Revlon & Elizabeth Arden

50 FEATURE Ingestible Beauty by Nikita Papas

76 FRAGRANCE Natural Born Distillers

54 AUSSIE MADE Unlabelled

78 FRAGRANCE Updates and Insights by Clayton Ilolahia

58 FEATURE What it takes to get onto TVSN by Tashi Jade Bell

Since 1921 Weleda has been unlocking the vitality and potency of nature to help maintain a healthy body, inside and out. We dare to care and strive to make the world a better place for people and the planet. Whether it’s through fair trade, biodynamic cultivation, or responsible use of environmental resources — sustainability is part of our roots.

Previous issues

10 COVER STORY New Skin Food SKU and Formulas Lift Weleda’s Body Care Offer

New and Improved Products

84 BRAND NEWS 92 OUT & ABOUT

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.

RETAIL BEAUTY

Publisher Craig Hawtin-Butcher M: +61 (0)444 516 058 E: craig@intermedia.com.au Podcaster & Strategic Advisor Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nherrera@intermedia.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: mruzzene@intermedia.com.au National Advertising Manager Cathryn Tout M: +61 (0)416 350 742 E: ctout@intermedia.com.au Graphic Designer Sanja Spuzanic E: sspuzanic@intermedia.com.au Mailing Address RETAIL BEAUTY P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in Retail Beauty may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in Retail Beauty are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of BHA Media 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583

Contributors

ASSOCIATE EDITOR CLAYTON ILOLAHIA TASHI JADE BELL Tashi Jade Bell is a BUSINESS FEATURES Clayton works in communication and self-taught MUA with a ELISABETH KING evaluation for Fragrances passion for colour, who Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010.

of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

first discovered the magic of makeup and skincare in 2010 when she visited Sephora in NYC. She began creating beauty and fashion content in 2013, beginning on YouTube, and it wasn’t long before she was a part-time content creator. Beauty has also worked as a form of therapy for the former lawyer, who previously specialised in private equity and venture capital for over 10 years, but was forced to retire from her stressful career due to treatment resistant depression and anxiety. Tashi Jade Bell now uses her social media presence, which currently has over 75,000 followers on Instagram @paint_ bytashijadebell, as a form of art therapy. Tashi Jade Bell is also a co-host of @thebeautybusinesspodcast.

MICHAEL BROWN

NIKITA PAPAS

Growing up as a dancer, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador. Michael is also co-host of the Nova podcast Skinfluence.

An established PR and Communications Director, Nikita Papas has garnered 15+ years of experience within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. As an experienced Fashion, Beauty & Lifestyle Editor and Creative Director, Nikita understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive customer experience.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

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COVER STORY

Body of Evidence New Skin Food SKU and Formulas Lift Weleda’s Body Care Offer by Elisabeth King

ody care has been one of the main beneficiaries of the global self-care trend as more consumers turned to top-totoe wellness routines to relieve stress and anxiety during the Covid-19 pandemic. Functional ingredients that increase feelings of wellbeing and sustainability concerns have also fuelled the body care market over the past two years, notably in Europe where sales of body care products rose 3.5 per cent in 2021 to US$5.6 billion, reports GlobalData. Few other brands are better placed to meet the demands of today’s eco-conscious consumers for premium body products made with 100 per cent natural ingredients from renewable sources than Weleda. When it comes to body care, customers are also looking for results, says Charmaine Pichler, Head of Marketing for Weleda Australia. “Brands like Weleda with the highest environmental credentials that also deliver efficacy are poised for even greater success in today’s marketplace”.

NEW ECO PACKAGING/ MEETING TODAY’S CONSUMER DEMANDS Weleda’s latest range of six new and reformulated body lotions not only glamourise basic body care, they deliver the highest represented claim in the category - moisturising - as well as revitalising, regenerating and wellbeing benefits. Consumers are also demanding that packaging should reflect their environmental principles. The bottles for the new body lotions are made of 97 per cent rPET (excluding lid and label) and recyclable. Weleda is also on track to increase the proportion of recycled material in its primary glass, aluminium and plastic packaging to at least 65 per cent by the end of 2022. 10| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

We’ve had body lotions for a long time, says Pichler. “The latest formulations answer the questions consumers are asking - Is it easy to apply? Is it fast-absorbing? and Is the fragrance right? Long lasting hydration is the most dominant benefit across the range”. Skin Food is Weleda’s most popular franchise and one Skin Food product is sold somewhere in the world every five seconds. “In 2019, we launched Skin Food Body Butter and it has been hugely successful. We also reduced our environmental impact upgrading the packaging to a recycled and recyclable glass jar with an outer box made from 85 per cent recycled cardboard and for a more prestige or premium look. Earlier this year, Weleda Skin Food Body Butter won a prestigious Elle magazine International Award for Best Green Skincare”. We could see an opportunity for Skin Food Body Lotion to become a hero product in our new body care range, adds Pichler. “It has the signature Skin Food fragrance based on sweet orange, lavender and vanilla notes and is deeply nourishing for dry and very dry skin. A great everyday product, Skin Food Body Lotion is easy to apply, absorbs quickly and delivers instant hydration.

COVERING ALL BASES/ SOURCING WITH RESPECT Containing one whole lemon per bottle, Refreshing Body Lotion provides added express moisture that lasts for 24 hours, says Pichler. “Anyone looking for intense hydration has the choice of Revitalising Lotion with omega rich Sea Buckthorn, which hydrates dry skin for up to 48 hours. Harmonising Body Lotion - Wild Rose has major aromatherapy benefits with scents of geranium and damask rose and pampers the skin with organic rosehip oil and shea butter”.

FROM THE GROUND UP #SaveEarthsSkin In April, Weleda launched a global campaign - Save Earth’s Skin to prevent soil degradation. In a local initiative, the company pledged to donate $2 from every Weleda Skin Food product sold via their website in April and May to help Australian farmers. The proceeds went to Carbon8, a farmer-led project to increase the percentage of carbon in the soil to mitigate the impact of droughts and floods and transition to more regenerative farming methods. Internationally, Weleda teamed with Arizona Muse, the environmental activist and founder of DIRT, the soil regeneration charity. More than one third of the planet’s soil has already been degraded and the video content of the campaign incorporates a project mapping technique on Arizona’s body to demonstrate how the world’s soil is under threat. Weleda backed up the images with new pages on its website and POS promotions in-store. The use of the human body in the hero content of Save Earth’s Skin highlights the fact that, like our skin, soil has a thriving microbiome. Weleda has been a pioneer of biodynamic farming for over a century and all of the ingredients in the brand’s products are either grown in its eight biodynamic gardens worldwide or sourced from more than 50 longterm partnerships who also use biodynamic farming techniques.

B CORP CERTIFICATION The Gold Standard Reassurance for Consumers Over the past five years, numerous surveys and research reports have confirmed that skincare and beauty brands benefit from natural and organic certification. As “greenwashing” has become rampant, consumers are increasingly seeking out companies that meet the highest international standards. Weleda has been a pioneer and innovator in sustainability, regenerative procedures and the use of biodynamic and natural ingredients for over 100 years. But last year, the Swiss-headquartered company considered it critical to demonstrate its alignment with more than 4000 B Corp organisations across 150 industries to positively impact social and environmental footprints. B Corp certification, awarded by non-profit organisation B Lab, is the highest verified standard for social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability. Weleda achieved B Corp Certification last November. To qualify for the benchmark certification, a company must complete the B Impact Assessment (BIA) and be awarded a minimum of 80 points on its 200 point scale. Weleda exceeded this requirement, scoring 106.9 points. Weleda has long been recognised as one of the world’s leading responsible natural skincare brands, says Stefan Siemer, Head of Sustainability at Weleda. “We are excited to be part of this incredible community, to serve as a role model and to support our peers in the desire to make a difference. As our customers become increasingly aware of how their own consumption impacts the planet and society, it is our obligation as an industry leader in certified natural cosmetics to enhance our efforts to help them accomplish this goal”

Weleda has also committed to donating 400,000 euros (AU$597,000) to soil-focused projects around the world. “We recognise how important healthy soil is, not only to make our high-quality products, but for the future of our planet and everyone who lives on it”, says Stefan Siemer. “Commitment to soil biodiversity is at the heart of all our product sourcing. Improving and supporting soil biodiversity to make it as healthy as possible, is a priority, through natural, biodynamic farming and collaboration with soil-focused regenerative farming projects across the world”.

Firming and anti-ageing body care is a fast-growing category as skin appearance has become crucial for consumers. “Our Regenerating Body Lotion targets maturing skin and is rich in pomegranate, which helps to reduce the signs of skin ageing caused by sun damage and exposure and stimulates cell renewal, she says. “Sensitive skin remains a major concern for many women and our Sensitive Body Lotion is fragrance and alcohol-free. The caring formula is made with sunflower oil, borage seed oil, organic coconut and jojoba to relieve tightness. It has been reformulated without almond oil and is certified by ECARF (European Centre for Allergy Research Foundation) as an allergy-free product”. Weleda always stays true to its reputation as both a natural skincare expert and maker of products manufactured from the finest 100 per cent natural ingredients, notes Pichler. “We are also a member of the Union of Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) and ingredients in our body lotions come from an audited supply chain in accordance with the UEBT standard “Sourcing with Respect”. ■ Weleda’s new range of body lotions are available nationwide Sensitive Body Lotion and Refreshing Body Lotion - Citrus (both $24.95), Revitalising Body Lotion - Sea Buckthorn ($26.95) and Regenerating Body Lotion - Pomegranate, Harmonising Body Lotion - Wild Rose and Skin Food Body Lotion - all $29.95. Go to www.weleda.com.au for stockists. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |11

INTERVIEW

TOP OF THE PECKING ORDER McPherson’s CEO Grant Peck talks to Retail Beauty about its new Chemist Warehouse alliance, the importance of pharmacy and growth opportunities by Elisabeth King

ver the past five years McPherson’s has re-positioned its business on three core silos- Health, Wellness and Beauty. For Grant Peck, who took over the reins as CEO and Managing Director in March last year, the strategy remains a strong work in progress. McPherson’s huge customer base of more than 10,000 retail outlets across pharmacies, supermarkets, discount department stores and department stores puts the iconic supplier in the box seat to fuel its mission of delivering real solutions to the everyday health and beauty needs of Australian consumers. As a top quality ASX-listed business with proven merchandising skills to drive brand growth, McPherson’s brings a lot to the table. The company manages key brands such as Eylure for overseas partners. But the bulk of its revenues come from its diversified portfolio of owned market-leading brands such as A’kin, Dr LeWinn’s, Glam by Manicare, Lady Jayne, Swisspers, Maseur, Moosehead, Multix, Fusion Health and Oriental Botanicals.

RIDING THE WELLNESS WAVE In late 2020, McPherson’s strengthened its wellness credentials with the $27 million acquisition of Global Therapeutics, a subsidiary of Blackmores. The two linchpins of the business were Fusion Health and Oriental Botanicals, which are driven by deep respect for the time-proven practices and philosophies that underpin traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), as well as Ayurvedic medicine, Western herbal medicine, naturopathy and other herbal treatments from around the world. The top-selling brands form the bedrock of McPherson’s health and wellness division and the company’s widespread distribution network in pharmacies for its beauty products will allow both brands to expand beyond their traditional health food store base. “The Covid-19 pandemic gives a tail wind to Fusion Health and Oriental Botanicals. More people are looking for natural ways to improve their well-being and longevity and to remain healthy for as long as they can. They are also looking to recognised brands and we’re on a mission to make traditional medicine mainstream, and in doing so, empower everyone to create more active, fulfilled, and joyful lives. Our aim is to inspire people to strive for a balanced lifestyle.” 12| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

“Oriental Brands Botanicals has a 22-year track record and is Australia’s leading provider of supplements with a product range that focuses on ingredients from ancient healing traditions, often in combination with vitamins, minerals and other nutrients. Both brands are made in Australia to the strictest quality and safety standards and consumers really value that as they seek natural and preventative vitamins and supplements that suit their lifestyles”.

DIY BEAUTY CARE TO CONTINUE The global pandemic was also a major driver of the DIY at-home beauty trend. “We have an amazing portfolio of brands that lay the foundation for beauty care at home,” adds Peck. “I challenge anyone to go into any store and not find one of our brands for their nail, skin and haircare needs. With beauty salons closed during lockdowns, consumers could look after their face and body with value brands such as Manicare, Glam by Manicare, Swisspers, Revitanail, Dr LeWinn’s and A’kin.” The at-home beauty trend reminds Peck of his days in the food industry. “For new and enthusiast chefs we offered a whole range of short cuts and allowed them to hone their cooking skills with a minimum of time and fuss. That’s what McPherson’s has allowed our beauty customers to do, and I don’t see the expertise they have

INTERVIEW

learned over the past couple of years going to waste. They have also discovered the cost-saving benefits of DIY personal care.” With a leading portfolio of beauty tools, accessories, and lashes, Manicare and Glam by Manicare are well positioned in the market to capitalise on the significant shift in consumer behaviour to the selfcare beauty movement,” he adds. “The combined strength of our trusted brands, strong distribution across pharmacy and grocery and digital engagement just fuels this growth.” Hairdressing and professional beauty salons may have borne the brunt of lockdown restrictions, but pharmacies and supermarkets were designated as essential businesses. “It was great, as always, to be involved in an essential service category,” notes Peck. “Our pharmacy customers really stepped up to the plate during the pandemic. Going forward, we see more growth opportunities in the sector, even though we are already one of the largest suppliers in pharmacy.” The iconic Lady Jayne and Manicare brands are clear market leaders in their respective categories in pharmacy in Australia, he says. “For example, the iconic Lady Jayne brand, is the number one hairbrush and accessories brand in Australian pharmacies and Manicare is the number one beauty accessories brand nationwide. In April 2022, Lady Jayne launched its first foray in rechargeable styling devices with a heated straightening brush. It is the first ever rechargeable

styling brush in the pharmacy market. No doubt it will further drive value for the brand and category.”

NEW ERA WITH CHEMIST WAREHOUSE McPherson’s has long had a close alliance with Chemist Warehouse, its largest customer, and the partnership has been invaluable to the company’s continuing success. A strategy that was given a major shot-in-the-arm in March when McPherson’s signed a new strategic alliance arrangement with the pharmacy major. In exchange for 9.9 per cent of its capital, McPherson’s entered a new era of cooperation and achieved preferred supplier status. Chemist Warehouse expanded the number of the supplier’s brands it currently stocks in Australia and New Zealand to include SugarBaby, Happy Flora, Fusion Health. Moosehead, Maseur and Stratton. While McPherson’s became the exclusive distributor of a curated collection of Chemist Warehouse owned or controlled health and wellness brands outside the pharmacy giant’s network in Australia and New Zealand for an initial five-year period from July 1st. A portfolio including Wagner Vitamins, Wagner Body Science, Foster Grant, Bondi Protein, INC and Microgenics. The entry of Chemist Warehouse into McPherson’s share register as a significant shareholder is a major springboard for the company’s ambitions in the health,

FAST FACTS - GRANT PECK • A proven leader with more than 30 years’ experience in large and specialist FMCG companies, Peck was appointed CEO and Managing Director of McPherson’s in March 2021 following an interim period of 4 months in the role. • He first joined McPherson’s in December 2017 as a non-executive director. Peck was CEO of Sunny Ridge Farm from June 2017 to June 2020. • His wide-ranging experience includes the senior management positions of Chief Financial Officer at Carlton & United Breweries (CUB) and Group Managing Director of Supply for CUB in the Fosters Group from 2008 to 2016. • From 1999 to 2004, Peck was the Chief Financial Officer for the AsiaPacific region for McCormick & Co, a global leader in spices, condiments, and seasoning mixes across 170 countries.

wellness, and beauty categories, both internationally and locally through the pharmacy titan’s in-store and e-commerce platforms. “It’s an exciting step and builds on our long and successful partnership,” says Peck. “Our brands are a natural fit for Chemist Warehouse and are growing strongly because of the tremendous support and synergy they receive. Chemist Warehouse is a brand owner like we are, the increased distribution and coverage and being a preferred supplier offer a unique opportunity.”

PRIORITISED GROWTH/ MOTIVATED WORKFORCE Peck believes that McPherson’s has identified and prioritised growth and expansion over the past year or so to shake off the perception that the company was just a domestic player with a Dr LeWinn’s and China-facing export business. “We are now looking to create multiple bases and geographies. One of our greatest strengths is Australian brands owned by an Australianlisted company.” Giving back and supporting diversity is high on the list for McPherson’s. The company’s Modern Slavery 2021 commitment is now available on the Modern Slavery Register. It also adheres to the Australian Packaging Covenant, a sustainable packaging initiative that sets out how government and businesses across the country share the responsibility for managing the environmental impacts of packaging. Peck’s guiding management philosophy is finding the right person for the right job, giving them the right processes and support to succeed, then stepping back and allowing them to do so. “With our Health, Wellness and Beauty focus, we have a highly motivated workforce across brand management, supply chain management and marketing. I am also committed to diversity, and we have the privileged position of having a gender diversity that is already reflective of our brands and products, skewing to females. With our care centred product portfolio - unique in an Australian owned context, we think we have great opportunity to define our culture around how we best care for each other going forward.” ■ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |13

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

INSPIRING INNOVATION AND TRANSFORMATION Retail Beauty catches up with Carmelo Francese, Owner and Founding Director of Inspire Brands, to talk about the guiding principles that are driving the success of the business.

WHAT LED YOU TO START THE INSPIRE BRANDS BUSINESS? Prior to starting the business, I had spent my entire career in the retail and beauty industry working for several major retailers in senior management and buying roles. The knowledge and experience gained over those years was invaluable. It gave me the opportunity to build a business that leveraged my experience and expertise with a real understanding of the challenges and opportunities faced by retailers. I wanted to create a business that brings to market the highest quality hair and beauty products distributed in partnership with retailers.

14| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

When I started the business in 2011, I was confident that we were well positioned to meet the needs and trends in the Australian beauty industry. I started on my own and then built the team gradually over the next two years. One thing that we agreed on from the start is the establishment of four core pillars that underpin everything that we do. These are the guiding principles that have driven the growth and success of the business.

Knowledge – Our team is made up of industry experts with decades of experience and a wealth of knowledge and insight. Continuing to stay on point with the latest trends is critical in

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

the beauty industry and has been core to our success. We are continually conducting research across a range of global sources including attending the relevant industry trade shows every year.

Collaboration – We pride ourselves on our ability to collaborate with our retail partners to bring innovative products and private label brands to market that will enable them to stand out. We produce products for pharmacies, major retailers, beauty and hair salons and barbers. Our product range includes haircare, skincare, and electrical beauty appliances. We have the capability to develop a product from start to finish or we can bring an already developed product to market.

Passion – This is the most important of our four pillars at Inspire Brands. I believe that without a genuine passion for the beauty industry and loving what you do, success is impossible. We’ve created a strong team culture where ideation and the passion to deliver is celebrated. Our passion also gives us a powerful edge and drives us to stay ahead of industry trends and our competitors.

Innovation – This pillar in the business underpins everything we do. Conscious consumers are well educated when it comes to products and ingredients, they are more knowledgeable about possible irritations caused by synthetic ingredients in fragrances and preservatives and are reading labels more carefully. Beauty trends, like clean beauty, sustainability, and the biotech boom along with key ingredients are driving the push for innovative product solutions. Our team is constantly challenged to find the latest product or active ingredient that will meet the expectations of a very well informed consumer.

HOW DO YOU PARTNER WITH RETAILERS?

We develop a project plan and critical path that ensures the product is ready for launch and on shelves within a required timeline. The plan includes sourcing packaging, ingredients, final formulas, label design and copy etc. During this process there is continued communication with our retail partner who signs off on key milestones as we move forward. This is where true collaboration comes into play, resulting in a range of products that helps them differentiate and stand out from other retailers whilst delivering on their customers needs.

WHAT IS YOUR OUTLOOK FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY? The beauty industry globally is valued at around USD $500b and locally around USD $4b. One could say the industry is overcrowded yet we have seen resilience and transformation in the post COVID-19 recovery and consistent growth and innovation. The increased interest in the latest ingredients is paving the way for ingredient-led brands. Consumers are seeking ingredients that play a specific role versus a single product that promises to do the lot. Consumers are personalising their skin and hair regimen with the specific products tailored to their needs.

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT WHAT YOU DO? I get so much gratification from knowing that as a team and business we are using our collective knowledge, skills, and passion to bring innovative products to our retail partners and their customers. We love finding new ingredients with powerful properties that have not yet been used. Sometimes it is rediscovering ingredients that have been around for a while but have perhaps been overlooked or considered too expensive to meet the price points required. A good example of this is Hemp Seed Oil. It has been around forever but has been identified as a superfood and ingredient in the last four years. It performs the same way it did centuries ago but is now a trending ingredient in skincare and haircare products. Trends are often cyclic, and when this happens it requires a repositioning of the ingredient and product along with contemporary packaging to meet current consumer preferences. As a business owner who has been in the beauty industry all my life, I am continually looking to bring the element of surprise and innovation to the market. At present we are working on a NEW range that we have developed which touches on both uniqueness of ingredient and targeting a new audience of customer. The brand will be launched in the last quarter of 2022 and at this stage we must keep it under wraps till we launch, but it is a superstar. www.inspirebrands.com.au

We pride ourselves on our ability to collaborate with our retail partners to bring innovative products and private label to market that will enable them to stand out.

Helping retailers to deliver the latest products that consumers are on the lookout for whilst giving them a competitive edge. We have built a business that enables us to develop exclusive products and private label brands in collaboration with our retail partners. For example, a retailer comes to us regarding a product in the skincare category. They want something that is on point with current trends but different to what is already out there. Typically, the retailer has a clear brief of the type of product range they are looking for, but if not, we will work with them to develop a series of recommendations. We then work with our local and global networks to develop a range that meets the brief and we present and agree on a way forward. From there, we take care of the rest.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |15

INDUSTRY NEWS – TRENDS

LVMH owns luxury beauty and fragrance brands such as Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

EMERGING, PEAKING, WANING AND SAFE BET BEAUTY TRENDS If a week is a long time in politics, the world of beauty trends is just as fast-paced. Here, we round up what’s hot, and what’s not, in the beauty world, according to Trendalytics. Trendalytics, the US predictive data and retail analytics platform, keeps tabs on the beauty market on a monthly basis. The company uses a predictive algorithm to identify beauty and fashion trends, sifting through mountains of data. Its latest report for April makes interesting reading, especially in light of the fact that disposable face masks don’t even make the top 25 bestselling beauty products on Amazon anymore after rating highly until the end of last year. One of the biggest trends of the first quarter of the year is effortless beauty, a.k.a the French Girl look, notes Trendalytics, achieved through flushed cheeks, glossy lips and slicked-back hair. Below are the emerging, peaking, waning and safe bet beauty trends that need to be on your radar.

EMERGING PRODUCTS Pomade Stick – +74 per cent Gloss Lip – +34 per cent Full Coverage Concealer – +33 per cent Blush Tint – +29 per cent French Skincare – +25 per cent Hair Concealer – +17 per cent Kajal Eyeliner – +16 per cent Inner Corner Eyeshadow – +15 per cent Hair Oiling – +15 per cent Under Liner – +1 per cent

PEAKING PRODUCTS Eye Massager – +42 per cent Heatless Curling – +14 per cent Brown Nail Polish – +12 per cent Waterproof Eyeliner – +11 per cent Lash Serum – +8 per cent Collagen Serum – +7 per cent Keratin Conditioner – +7 per cent Dark Lip Liner – +4 per cent Inner Corner Eyeliner – minus 7 per cent

WANING PRODUCTS Shave Butter – minus 4 per cent Neon Nails – minus 7 per cent Rhodolia supplements – minus 10 per cent Mousse Foundation – minus 11 per cent Salicylic Acid – minus 14 per cent Fragrance Oil – minus 16 per cent Collagen Boosting – minus 20 per cent Shea Butter Shampoo – minus 33 per cent Negative Space Nails – minus 35 per cent

SAFE BET PRODUCTS Hydrating Lipstick – +1326 per cent ABOVE LEFT: The French Girl look is having a moment, as seen on actress Audrey Tautou. ABOVE: Gloss Lips are increasing in popularity. LEFT: Neon Nails and Negative Space Nails are on the decline. RIGHT: Serum Foundation is a safe bet.

16| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Fishtail Eyeliner – +570 per cent Liquid Eyeshadow – +174 per cent Bare Nails – +106 per cent Lip Blushing – +100 per cent Serum Foundation – + 97 per cent Eyeshadow Stick – + 7 per cent Graphic Eyeliner – + 61 per cent Lip Stain – +52 per cent

INDUSTRY NEWS

L’ORÉAL GLOBAL SALES SURGE 19 PER CENT IN Q1 Forbes, the global business media company, has named Francoise Bettencourt Meyers as the richest woman in the world for the second Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L’Oréal. year in a row. The granddaughter of the founder of L’Oréal, she has a net worth of US$74.8 billion and owns 33 per cent of L’Oréal’s stocks. Her dominance of the female billionaire rankings looks set to continue. L’Oréal has posted Q1 revenues of 9.06 billion euros (AU$13.45 billion) – a 19 per cent increase over the same period last year. The world’s largest beauty company outperformed global beauty market growth of 8 per cent for the three months ended March 31 by a wide margin. According to Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L’Oréal – “This quarter, again, we can say that we are beating the market growth in every division and in every region.” The L’Oréal Luxe division continued to be a star performer with sales rising 17.5 per cent to 3.46 billion euros (AU$5.13 billion). Power

SOUTH KOREA’S BIGGEST BEAUTY COMPANY ACQUIRES MAJORITY STAKE IN THE CRÈME SHOP FOR US$120 MILLION Last year, LG Household & Health Care (LG H&H) overtook its longtime rival, AmorePacific, to become South Korea’s largest beauty company. The owner of The History of Whoo, O Hui and Su:m37 brands also ranks as the 12th largest beauty company in the world. The South Korean giant announced record-breaking sales for its 2021 financial year earlier this year. Overall sales rose 3.1 per cent to US$6.69 billion, marking LG H&H’s 17th consecutive year of growth. Luxury beauty brands such as The History of Whoo led the pack with a strong performance during Alibaba’s Singles’ Day, the world’s largest online shopping event. LG H&H’s global luxury skincare sales reached US$724 million in 2021. But LG H&H is fearful of putting too many eggs in the China basket. The company has announced that it will focus on the North American market this year, where The House of Whoo has achieved significant success. To further its aims in North America, LG H&H has acquired a majority stake in The Crème Shop for US$120 million. Founded in 2012 by Korean ex-pats, Theresa and Lawrence Kim, the LA-based brand targets Gen Z and Millennial consumers with affordable prices, quirky makeup and skincare and collaborations with Disney and Hello Kitty. The Creme Shop is the third US brand LG H&H has invested in. In 2014, the multinational bought Arctic Fox, the US vegan haircare

brands such as YSL Beauty, Giorgio Armani, Prada and Valentino all outstripped the overall prestige beauty market. Major growth in the US, Germany, India and China fuelled a 17.6 per cent rise in the Professional Products division to 1.04 billion euros (AU$1.54 billion). Haircare brands including L’Oréal Professionnel, Kerastase, Matrix and Redken were the main drivers of the turnaround. The Active Cosmetics division, including La Roche-Posay, CeraVe and SkinCeuticals, was again a standout with double digit growth for the first quarter of 18 per cent to 1.25 billion euros (AU$1.85 billion), gaining market share in every region. L’Oréal’s largest division, Consumer Products, includes L’Oréal Paris, Garnier and Maybelline New York, and battled supply chain issues during Q1. But an acceleration in global makeup sales and strong launches such as L’Oréal Paris Hyaluron Plump shampoo and conditioner, Garnier SkinActive Fast Bright and Maybelline New York Colossal Curl Bounce mascara helped to boost results by 6.9 per cent. All geographic zones enjoyed significant sales increases over the first quarter - Europe (+16.4%), North America (+12.6%), North Asia (+9.4%), South Asia-Pacific, Middle East, North Africa, Sub-Saharan Africa (+15.8%) and Latin America (+22.2%). There was a strong revival of in-store sales worldwide in the first three months of the year, but L’Oréal’s e-commerce sales also grew strongly to represent 25.8 per cent of total global sales. The multinational remains bullish for the rest of the year, forecasting 4 to 5 per cent annual growth.

brand, and last year took a 56 per cent stake in Boinca, the US hair dye specialists. Both acquisitions were worth US$100 million. At the beginning of the year, LG H&H set a sales target of US$470 million for the North American market for 2022 - an increase over 2021 revenues of US$420 million.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |17

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INDUSTRY NEWS

LVMH owns luxury beauty and fragrance brands such as Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

LVMH POSTS DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTH OF 29 PER CENT IN Q1 Luxury sales are rebounding strongly as the world returns to normal and Covid-19 restrictions have been lifted in leading markets. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, has posted revenues of 18 billion euros (AU$26.3 billion) for its Q1 2022 - an upsurge of 29 per cent over the same quarter in 2021. LVMH owns 15 major luxury beauty and fragrance brands, including Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Benefit Cosmetics, Make Up For Ever, Fresh, Acqua di Parma, Kenzo Parfums, KVD Beauty, Marc Jacobs Beauty and Fenty Beauty by Rihanna. The division performed strongly in the first quarter with organic sales soaring 17 per cent to 1.905 billion euros (AU$2.78 billion) by contrast to the same period in 2021. Strong growth in the US and an uptick in sales from Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy and Maison Francis Kurkdjian boosted the overall results. LVMH’s Selective Retailing division includes Sephora, the world’s largest specialty beauty chain. Total sales jumped 30 per cent in the first quarter to 3.04 billion euros (AU$4.44 billion). Fashion & Leather Goods form the biggest division of LVMH, accounting for half its total sales. Revenues rose 35 per cent in Q1 to 9.123 billion euros (AU$13.32 billion), fast-tracked by the “remarkable performance” of Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Celine and Marc Jacobs.

OVER TWO-THIRDS OF AUSSIES SCAN CATALOGUES FOR BARGAINS Australia has been the number one promotionally-driven retail market in the world for some time, followed by New Zealand as the number two placegetter. A new study from ShopFully, the leading European tech company in Drive to Stores by country, active users and partners, in collaboration with Nielsen Media Analytics, confirms that the longstanding habit of chasing the best deals is as strong as ever. The commissioned study reveals that the percentage of Aussie shoppers scoping catalogues to find promotions and deals has risen 5 percentage points over the past year to 68 per cent. Internet research is the number one source of information for would-be buyers (57%), closely followed by digital catalogues (46%). The ShopFully research confirms that catalogues are a must-have for retailers looking to drive customers in-store with 45 per cent of those surveyed using them to plan and organise shopping lists ahead of time. Leading beauty retailers such as Chemist Warehouse, Priceline and David Jones with its Jones magazine are all well to the fore in the production of sophisticated and informative catalogues and magazines. ShopFully reports that in the health and beauty retail category, over 21 per cent of Australian shoppers have headed to stores after browsing through a digital catalogue following an average of 8 minutes of browsing. The shift to digital catalogues has accelerated, says ShopFully, with two in three Australians surveyed looking at them at least once a week. Convenience (48%) and environmental friendliness (42%) were the top two reasons for choosing digital over printed formats. 20| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Bricks and mortar retail was given a major thumbs-up with 98 per cent of respondents making in-store purchases. More than half of those surveyed (55%) said they viewed brands and retailers as more trustworthy if they had a physical storefront. Catalogues continue to be a go-to for three-quarters of the nation when they are deciding what to purchase, with readers spending 8.3 minutes per week browsing through retailers’ specials, says Dean Vocisano, Country Manager for ShopFully Australia. “Interestingly, Gen Z and Millennials are turning to digital catalogues the most, reading them 2.8 and 2.6 times per week, respectively, which dispels any generational stereotypes about consumption”. To discover more about the research and how ShopFully is working with Australian retailers and brands to drive traffic in-store, go to https://corporate.shopfully.com

INDUSTRY NEWS

ESXENCE ART PEFUMERY EVENT RETURNS BIGGER THAN EVER Global sales of luxury niche fragrances have tripled over the past 10 years. The worldwide luxury fragrance market is expected to reach US$16.8 billion over the next four years, reports Allied Market Research, and artisanal and niche juices are the fastestgrowing segment. Over the past six years, leading multinationals have snapped up artisanal and niche perfume companies to extend their footprints in the category. For example, L’Oréal bought Atelier Cologne, Estée Lauder acquired By Kilian and Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle and Puig now owns Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur. Esxence - The Art of Perfumery Event - held in Milan is the niche fragrance showcase for global brands. The Covid-19 pandemic led to a two-year hiatus, but Esxence is back bigger than ever. The 12th iteration, to be held from June 15 to 18, also has a new home - The MiCo Milano Convention Centre. Over 260 exhibitors will be on hand, including Goldfield & Banks, Australia’s first luxury fragrance house founded by Dimitri Weber. In 2019, Esxence hosted 221 exhibitors, attracting 8000 visitors from 77 countries. Australia isn’t the only country making its debut at Esxence, other nations attending for the first time include Japan, Argentina, China, South Korea and Hungary. We are witnessing a real renaissance for artistic perfumery, with a considerable increase in international and Italian brands joining

the event, noted Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence. International experts including Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, and Annick Le Guerer of Osmotheque, the world’s largest scent archive, will be joining the event remotely for lectures. Additional sessions will highlight business opportunities in developing markets, Michael Edwards, the increasing digital author of Fragrances strategies in the niche of the World. fragrance sector and the evolution of creative roles for leading perfumers. More than 60 health and beauty brands will also be taking part in this year’s Esxence event in the “Experience Lab” sector. Double the number who participated at the 2019 event. Top product categories are niche skincare, babycare, makeup and suncare. For more information, go to: www.esxence.com

US PRIVATE EQUITY FIRM GAUGE CAPITAL ACQUIRES BONDIBOOST Australian beauty brands have become hot properties. Gauge Capital, the US-based private equity firm, has acquired BondiBoost, the Australian professional haircare brand, for an undisclosed sum. Founded in 2018, BondiBoost sells direct-to-consumers through the website - www.bondiboost.com.au - and entered the salon market in Australia in 2019. The brand is vegan and cruelty-free and focuses on core hair concerns such as texture, breakage, thickness and repair. Cult favourites include the Wave Wand - one sells every 60 seconds - and Miracle Mask. BondiBoost quickly expanded overseas and has enjoyed major success in the US and the UK with estimated worldwide sales of US$80 million in 2021. The brand is sold through its own website in the US and Ulta Beauty, the largest specialty beauty chain in the US, in addition to Ulta Beauty concept stores in Target. Social media has been key to the brand’s rapid rise and BondiBoost has more than 680,000 followers on Instagram. Its Facebook group, BondiBoost Babes, boasts 80,000 members. The financial backing of Gauge Capital will super-charge international growth. But BondiBoost’s HQ and product development facilities will remain in Australia. The acquisition is in line with the dynamic double-digit growth of the prestige haircare market over the past two years. According to the NPD Group, prestige haircare sales in the US have reached US$2.6 billion and 90 per cent of American consumers surveyed have a keen interest in purchasing premium haircare products. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |21

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Topical Steroid Withdrawal (TSW) symptoms can last a long time, depending on the amount of topical steroid used, the potency, and the area it was applied.

opical corticosteroid (TCS) withdrawal (addiction) is a potential complication of TCS treatment, particularly where there has been an inappropriate long-term use of moderate-to-potent TCS on the face or genital area. When patients with TCS addiction cease TCS, they may develop widespread redness, burning pain, peeling skin, oozing areas and severe itch. Our products can help soothe the itch, reduce the redness, and help open, broken skin heal quicker by 22| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

supporting the wound healing process. In time, the flare ups will be less intense and less frequent. More importantly, by nourishing the skin barrier, as opposed to thinning it, the skin will be more resilient and not break so easily when it is scratched. This also helps to minimise other skin infections such as bacteria, fungal and viruses that can colonise when the skin barrier is compromised. Erythema typically spreads from the original eczematous areas locally – for example, from the face to the neck and then the upper limbs.Areas never treated with TCS can also become involved.

The severity and pattern of symptoms seen can vary significantly between patients. Some will experience ‘flares’ and ‘breaks’, where their skin cycles through periods of abnormal and then relatively normal skin. Others have more persistent symptoms for prolonged periods. While an affected patient is still using TCS, their skin can look normal or well controlled, or it may appear atrophic or demonstrate telangiectasia. The incidence and prevalence of TCS addiction and withdrawal are unknown. Atopics are most at risk, and in a systematic review, eczema was the initial indication for TCS use in one-third of cases. The same review found that 81% of those affected were female; 97% of patients had applied TCS to the face; and 94% of cases were where mid-to-high potency TCS were used. Using more potent TCS for longer periods of time increases the risk of developing TCS addiction.

BEFORE

AFTER

POSSIBLE TSW SIGNS INCLUDE Headlight sign Nose and perioral area spared from redness seen on rest of face. Erythema often ends at the mid-cheek with normal skin present from the mid cheek to the ears.

‘Red sleeve’ Rebound eruption to extremities stopping abruptly at the margin of the dorsal and palmer (or solar) sides.

‘Elephant wrinkles’ Reduction in skin elasticity, for example, to the anterior knees, extensor elbows and/or neck. Signs of skin damage from TCS such as skin atrophy and telangiectasia have been reported in patients with TCS addiction prior to cessation of TCS.

Manuka Oil and Propolis Extract are products used by man for centuries to help with skin healing and both have anti-inflammatory and anti-septic qualities which help to soothe and rejuvenate the skin.

The widespread red skin seen in this condition is thought to be the result of prolonged fixed vasodilatation. TCSs have a suppressive effect on nitric oxide in the endothelium and the release of accumulated endothelial nitric oxide stores results in hyperdilatation of vessels. For more severe TSW symptoms, please consult your doctor who can also support you on your journey through this. Visit our website www.dermagen.net.au for more information. Contact Pharmasales 03 9599 8900 for wholesale enquiries. Go to www.ITSAN.org for more information and support on TSW. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |23

INDUSTRY NEWS

ESTÉE LAUDER ON TRACK FOR RECORD YEAR WITH STRONG Q3 RESULTS The prestige beauty category is in overdrive worldwide. The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) have posted double digit growth in its third quarter. Global net sales rose 10 per cent to US$4.25 billion - up from US$3.86 billion for the same period last year. Every major category fuelled the booming bottom line. Global fragrance sales soared 28 per cent to US$579 million as the standout performer. Skincare sales rose 6 per cent to US$2.595 billion and makeup spiked 9 per cent to US$1.14 billion. Haircare was another double digit growth sector, rising 15 per cent to US$147 million. ELC President and CEO, Fabrizio Freda, emphasised the outstanding result. “We delivered strong sales growth and better-than-expected profitability in the third quarter of fiscal 2022 in the face of accelerated headwinds as the quarter evolved, ELC President and including Covid restrictions in the CEO Fabrizio Freda. Asia-Pacific region.”

LVMH owns luxury beauty and fragrance brands such as Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

EMEA (Europe, Middle East, Africa) remained the largest regional market for ELC with a 17 per cent increase in sales in Q3 to US$1.99 billion. Revenues in the Americas surged 15 per cent to US$1.053 billion. But Covid restrictions in many Chinese provinces had a dampening effect on the Asia-Pacific region, driving sales down 4 per cent compared to the same quarter in 2021 to US$1.203 billion. Eleven of ELC’s brands enjoyed double digit growth, added Freda, including M.A.C, Estée Lauder, Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty and Bobbi Brown. Increased in-store traffic flow, notably in speciality stores such as Ulta Beauty and Sephora boosted very strong growth. “We expect to deliver a record year in fiscal 2022,” said Freda. “We are confident that our business in China will rebound when Covid-19 abates.” The confidence is well-placed. For the nine month period to date ending March 31st, ELC posted net sales of US$14.2 billion. An increase of 15 per cent over the same period in the previous financial year.

PUIG POSTS SALES OF $3.77 BILLION IN 2021 Puig have bounced back strongly from the Covid-19 pandemic. The Spanish fashion, fragrance and makeup multinational is the parent company and licensee of major brands including Charlotte Tilbury makeup, Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaultier fragrances. It is the fifth largest fragrance maker in the world, representing 10 per cent of worldwide sales. The company’s 2021 revenues reached 2.6 billion euros (AU$3.77 billion) - an increase of 68 per cent by contrast to 2020 and 27 per cent compared to 2019. In 2018, Puig outlined a master plan to achieve 3 billion euros (AU$4.38 billion) in global sales by 2023. The company has revised that forecast after last year’s buoyant results, saying the target is on track to be reached by the end of this year. In 2021, global fragrance hits including Phantom by Paco Rabanne and Scandal Pour Homme by Jean Paul Gaultier pushed up fragrance sales by 41 per cent compared to 2020. Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl also enjoyed solid growth, as did niche juices from Penhaligon’s, L’Artisan Parfumeur and Christian Louboutin. Puig acquired a majority stake in Charlotte Tilbury in 2020, valuing the cult favourite at US$1 billion. 2021 was the first year the brand was integrated into the multinational’s stable and helped to fuel a 153 per cent increase in makeup sales, notably in the US and China. The company also consolidated its skincare brands, including Uriage and Apivita, into a new Derma Division and the strategy has paid off handsomely. A surge in sales in Europe and Asia 24| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Puig acquired a majority stake in Charlotte Tilbury in 2020.

resulted in double digit growth for Puig’s skincare portfolio to 274 million euros (AU$401.5 million). Net revenues in the US, the world’s largest single beauty market, rose 104 per cent to become Puig’s largest regional market. Sales in China increased by 212 per cent over 2020. The EMEA (Europe, the Middle East and Africa) also experienced a major boon, rising 60 per cent as leading markets recovered. E-commerce revenues were another highlight in 2021, rising to 28 per cent of Puig’s total worldwide sales. Puig products are sold in 150 countries, including Australia. The multinational plans to expand its online business, double down on its efforts in China and Asia and ride the wave of travel retail’s global recovery to triple its 2020 revenues by 2025.

INDUSTRY NEWS

70 PER CENT OF MILLENNIAL CHINESE SHOPPERS MADE CROSS-BORDER PURCHASES IN 2021 The daigou boom may have faded but China is still a major growth opportunity for Australian health and beauty brands. Alibaba’s 2021 Singles’ Day, the world’s largest online shopping festival, set a new record, generating AU$115.8 billion in revenues over the 11-day extravaganza last November. More than 900 million consumers in China and 290,000 merchants and brands took part. Australia was again among the top five foreign countries selling into China, alongside the US, Japan, Germany and Canada. Australian vitamin and minerals supplements were the big winners, followed by beauty supplements and skincare products. More than 2000 Australian companies have opened online stores on Alibaba, including leading beauty brands and retailers such as Mecca. JD.com, the other Chinese online giant, is also a major gateway for Australian brands selling into China. Gen Z and Millennial female consumers in China are the most important demographics when it comes to buying makeup and skincare. Alibaba’s Tmall reported recently that 50 million under-27 buyers purchased cosmetics through the platform over the past year. Younger Chinese are the sweet spot for premium beauty brands. Consumers under 29 years of age account for nearly 60 per cent of the category’s sales. Many Australian beauty brands specialise in natural, organic and clean beauty products. According to Mintel, more than 77 per cent of Chinese consumers preferred clean, natural and organic

GLOBAL SELF-TANNING MARKET TO REACH US$1.48 BILLION Australia punches above its weight when it comes to self-tanning products, led by brands such as Bondi Sands and Le Tan. Global sales of self-tanning products plunged during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic as major markets suffered lockdowns and other Swimsuit model Ashley restrictions. The tide turned last Graham for St Tropez. year and worldwide sales recovered significantly, reports Fact.MR, the international market research firm, who predict that sales will reach US$1.48 billion by 2032. By the end of this year, global sales of self-tanning products are expected to reach US$875 million, adds the researcher. Women represent 60 per cent of the market and lotions have a 50 per cent global market share. An increasing number of selftanning products are launching organic and clean formulas, notably local brands including Kora Organics and Wotnot. A smart move reveals

beauty products and 60 per cent believed they were more effective than their mainstream counterparts. In a recent study from ESW, the market leader in DTC global commerce, more than 70 per cent of Millennial Chinese shoppers said they made cross-border purchases in 2021. By contrast, Gen X shoppers made only 14 per cent of cross-border purchases, followed by Gen Z (11%) and Baby Boomers (2%). Lower prices and product diversity were the twin magnets for Millennial Chinese shoppers, revealed the ESW report. More than 24 per cent of respondents said they shopped online because of cheaper prices and 22 per cent revealed they shopped internationally because they couldn’t find similar products locally. Other major findings in the ESW survey revealed that 53 per cent of respondents prefer to shop online and 45 per cent intended to spend more in 2022.

Allied Market Research, the global market research firm, who forecast that the global organic personal care and cosmetic market will reach US$58.61 billion by 2031 with a CAGR of 5.3 per cent. The skincare segment is the giant of the category with a 32 per cent market share, but oral care is the fastest-growing sector. The US, the largest single beauty market in the world, currently accounts for 36.4 per cent of global revenues, but the Asia/Pacific region, including Australia, is projected to achieve the biggest growth over the next decade. The drugstore/pharmacy channel is well to the fore, says Allied Market Research, with a 37.2 per cent slice of the worldwide natural and organic beauty market. In addition to increased health consciousness during the Covid-19 pandemic, key drivers fuelling the use of organic and natural beauty products are the explosion in DTC channels, major discounts and easy payment plans. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |25

INDUSTRY NEWS PRICELINE BOOSTS WELLBEING CREDENTIALS WITH NEW MEDICAL INSURANCE OFFER Priceline has been a major wellbeing destination for more than 40 years. In addition to its beauty focus, the company has long been one of Australia’s leading retailers of vitamins, minerals and supplements. To capitalise on this long-standing commitment to maintaining good health, Priceline Pharmacy has unveiled a new medical insurance offer in partnership with NIB, the leading healthcare fund. Initially launched in 2000, the Priceline Sister Club is Australia’s biggest health and beauty loyalty program with more than 7 million members. Two years ago, Priceline revamped the program, offering new levels of personalisation, prizes, gifts and a trio of membership levels - Sister Club, Diamond and Pink Diamond. The company’s new medical insurance will extend Sister Club benefits. New sign-ups will access Sister Club membership bonuses for each $1 spent on the insurance premium and a $5 voucher for each $50 spent in-store at Priceline and Priceline Pharmacy locations. According to Ed Close, NIB Chief Executive of Australian Residents Health Insurance, Sister Club members will profit from a bespoke best-in-class medical insurance.

Ed Close, NIB Chief Executive of Australian Residents Health Insurance.

LVMH owns luxury beauty and fragrance brands such as Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

Wellbeing has also become a new focus for Galeries Lafayette. In mid-July, the iconic French department store chain will open a dedicated wellness department in the basement level of its flagship store on the Boulevard Haussmann in Paris. Formerly the popular shoe department, the 10,300 square metre space will host treatment services, a gym, a restaurant and French and international natural beauty and wellness brands.

BOOTS TAPS SIX MAJOR BEAUTY TRENDS FOR 2022 The global beauty and pharmacy industries are waiting with bated breath to see who will be victorious in the current battle to acquire Boots from Walgreens Boots Alliance. The venerated British chain is the largest beauty retailer in the UK and plans to remain so. Last September, the company announced the rollout of 30 new beauty halls across the UK. Boots has also added more than 65 new beauty brands to its roster over the past two years and has introduced “trend zones” instead of beauty counters to attract younger consumers. Boots also reported a significant rebound in its second quarter sales. Revenues increased 22 per cent compared to the same quarter last year. Beauty sales led the resurgence. Using collected data from Google Trends, Mintel and Boots.com, Boots have pinpointed six major trends expected to impact beauty sales for the rest of the year. 1. Expert skincare is top of the list as more consumers seek out solutions to leading skin concerns. Facial skincare sales at the retailer have increased by 41 per cent year-on-year. CeraVe sales have jumped by 54 per cent and La Roche-Posay revenues are up 41 per cent. 2. Anti-stress beauty routines will continue to be top-of-mind, says Boots, as Gen Zers and younger Millennials struggle with increased anxiety and stress. 3. Affordability will become more of a prime mover in beauty purchasing as inflation pressures mount worldwide. Popular brands such as The Ordinary have also played a major part in educating consumers that quality doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag. Boots currently offers 170 SKUs priced at AU$9 or lower. 4. Diversity and sustainability will continue to impact beauty buying intentions. Boots launched its #AllTogetherBeautiful campaign in March to re-affirm its commitment to being the most inclusive beauty retailer. 26| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Popular brands such as The Ordinary are effective and affordable.

5. Stress and anxiety can lead to scalp problems or increase the onset of major conditions such as dandruff. Scalp-focused haircare for men and women is enjoying a major spike in sales in the UK and Boots reports that search terms including the word scalp have increased by 170 per cent over the past 12 months. 6. Maximalist makeup has been trending strongly as leading global markets emerged from pandemic lockdowns and restrictions. Boots believes that girls will continue to want more fun and hone their creativity as summer approaches in the Northern Hemisphere. Recent launches by the company include Revolution Beauty and Kylie Cosmetics.

INDUSTRY NEWS COTY REVENUES SURGE 15 PER CENT IN Q3 Coty’s rebound is well underway. Robust results from the multinational’s prestige and consumer products divisions pushed revenues up 15 per cent in the third quarter of its financial year to US$1.186 billion. The buoyant performance also boosted the beauty major’s nine month revenues to US$4.136 billion - up 16 per cent over the same period last year. The leading engines of growth were the recovery of EMEA (Europe, the Middle East and Africa) markets, a reboot in travel retail and continued increases in the US online market. Coty’s prestige stable was a standout with sales growth of 21 per cent during Q3 to US$726.4 million, accounting for 61 per cent of overall sales. Upmarket fragrances from Gucci, Chloe, Burberry and Hugo Boss saw perfume revenues spike 20 per cent. Key launches included Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia and Burberry Hero. Prestige cosmetic sales almost doubled in the third quarter compared to the same period last year with Gucci Beauty, Burberry and Kylie Cosmetics lifting the bottom line.

Consumer beauty revenues surged 10 per cent like-for-like in Q3 to US$459.8 million, boosted by makeup, mass fragrances and body care. Rimmel London’s Kind & Free range led the charge and Max Factor, Sally Hansen and CoverGirl gained market share in leading markets. Our Q3 earnings mark the seventh consecutive quarter of Coty reporting results in line to ahead of expectations, said Sue Y. Nabi, CEO of Coty Inc. “I am extremely proud of the organisation for delivering these results, and outperforming the overall beauty market in an increasingly volatile environment. “This confirms that Coty has the brands and the people to win in the beauty market, guided by our strategic priorities of delivering above market sales growth and expanding gross margin, allowing for brand reinvestment, profit expansion and continued de-leveraging.” In another full circle move, Coty has re-appointed Queen Latifah, the Grammy award-winning and Oscar-nominated artist, actress and entrepreneur, as the face of a soon-to-be-announced collection under a multi-year partnership. Back in 2006, Coty collaborated with Latifah to create one of the first ranges in mass cosmetics formulated for deeper skin tones.

INTER PARFUMS SALES SURGE 26 PER CENT TO US$250.7 MILLION IN Q1 Inter Parfums, the maker of Jimmy Choo, Coach, Guess and Montblanc fragrances, enjoyed a record-breaking first quarter with global sales increasing 26 per cent to US$250.7 million - up from US$198.5 million for the same period last year. All major geographic regions experienced double digit growth - the US (+12%), Western Europe and Asia/Pacific (both 41%), the Middle East (+27%), South America (+38) and Eastern Europe (+13%). “The current first quarter was exceptionally strong with significant gains by our largest brands”, noted Jean Madar, chairman and CEO of Inter Parfums. “Montblanc, Jimmy Choo, Coach and Guess brand sales rose 22 per cent, 7 per cent, 22 per cent and 27 per cent, respectively.” During the first three months of the year, the multinational launched several major juices, including Montblanc Legend Red and Guess Uomo. The company’s mid-priced stable of brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Kate Spade, Oscar de la Renta and Van Cleef & Arpels also enjoyed double-digit growth. Newer brands in the portfolio - MCM, Moncler, Ferragamo and Ungaro also played their part in driving the first quarter increase. Our brands are in high demand in a robust environment for the fragrance industry, added Madar. “We have a large number of brand extensions across many of our brands launching throughout the year plus Boucheron Singulier and Coach Open Road - entirely new men’s pillars in the second half. Plus, in July, Donna Karan and DKNY fragrances will join our brand portfolio. We remain totally optimistic about the remainder of this year and the years ahead.” In a bullish forecast, inter Parfums estimate that global net sales for the calendar year 2022 will reach US$975 million. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |27

INDUSTRY NEWS

LVMH owns luxury beauty and fragrance brands such as Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

LOTTE DUTY FREE UNVEILS SYDNEY SUPER STORE Lotte Duty Free reveals that the total Australian travel retail market was worth AU$1.124 billion per year pre-Covid and South Korea’s largest travel retailer has very big plans to grow the sector. The multinational says it will target the same amount of sales from its Australian operations alone over the next 10 years to become the country’s largest duty-free operator. Lotte Duty Free recently opened a 3000 square metre, three-storey flagship store in Sydney as a major building block for its ambitious strategy. Located at the junction of Pitt and Market Streets in the CBD, the company has hailed the new destination venue as “the restart of our global business”. Lotte Duty Free shuttered all of its 19 stores during the pandemic, except for its Cam Ranh Airport outlet in Nha Trang in Vietnam. The opening of the new Sydney store takes Lotte’s network to 20 stores in seven countries - South Korea (8), Australia (4), Vietnam (3), Japan (2) and New Zealand, Guam and Singapore( all 1). The interiors of the new Sydney store were designed by Bates Smart, one of Australia’s oldest architectural firms and responsible for landmark developments such as Federation Square in Melbourne. Over 150 international and local brands across wine and spirits, beauty, watches and jewellery are on hand to tempt travellers. Beauty is a huge part of the mix. More than 100 brands are available, including The Beauty Chef, Vida Glow, Estée Lauder, Lancôme, Shiseido, SK-II, La Prairie, Sulwhasoo, Le Labo, By Kilian and Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle.

NOMINATIONS OPEN FOR AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER PHARMACY ASSISTANT AWARD Nominations for this year’s The Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award (PATY) are now open at pharmacyassistants.com/paty. PATY is the premier award for Australian pharmacy assistants, recognising and celebrating the ‘best of the best’ in community pharmacy and recognising outstanding pharmacy assistants’ skills, knowledge, leadership and customer service across 12 months. With the award offering the option of thirdparty as well as self-nomination, pharmacists across Australia are encouraged to nominate those pharmacist assistants who have demonstrated excellence during 2021. Pharmacy Guild National President, Professor Trent Twomey, said the PATY award is one of the best ways to encourage pharmacy assistants in their roles. “Now in its 16th year, the Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award provides a truly national platform to acknowledge and appreciate our frontline staff,” Professor Twomey said. 28| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Lotte has also introduced Japanese skincare brands Pola and Decorte to Australian travel retail for the first time. Other inducements include an average discount of 15 per cent lower than local retail prices for leading beauty products. Luxury watches from Breitling, Montblanc, Longines and more are also a major focus. A resident sommelier is on hand to showcase the finest international wines and more than 100 premium whiskies. In other travel retail beauty news, Goldfield & Banks, the niche luxury Australian perfume house, also made its debut in the sector with Dufry at Melbourne Airport earlier this month. Founded by Dimitri Weber in 2016, the brand is now sold in more than 400 stores worldwide in 30 countries and will launch in Harrods in London on June 6th.

“With the support of our award partners AFT Pharmaceuticals, Metagenics, Gold Cross and Retail Pharmacy Assistants magazine, we look forward to acknowledging and celebrating more pharmacy assistants than ever before.” Last year’s award saw Ashleigh Hutson from Bardens Amcal Pharmacy in the Northern Territory recognised as Australia’s outstanding pharmacy assistant. As the national winner, Ashleigh received over $10,000 worth of prizes including a cash prize of $5,000, a customised training package, and return travel and accommodation to the 2022 Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference (APP) and 2022 Pharmacy Assistant National Conference. Ashleigh said winning the award was a significant milestone in her career. “I am so passionate about this career and it was such an honour to be awarded the title of Pharmacy Assistant of the Year.” “Being involved in PATY has given me the platform to connect with other pharmacy assistants, to share experiences, and to learn from each other’s passion for healthcare.”

Ashleigh Hutson.

“It was an incredible opportunity and it was amazing meeting and learning from the experiences of my fellow state finalists.” To nominate an outstanding pharmacy assistant, go to pharmacyassistants.com/ paty. Third party nominations close 1 July.

INDUSTRY NEWS DECIEM SHUTTERS FOUR BRANDS When Deciem, the parent company of The Ordinary, launched in Australia in 2016, there were six brands in its portfolio - Hylamide, The Chemistry Brand, Abnomaly, HIF, NIOD and The Ordinary. Within three years, the Canadian company was selling two million units of The Ordinary in Australia through e-commerce and leading retailers including Priceline and Myer. Now in its 9th year of operation, Deciem scored a 29 per cent investment from the Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) in 2017. In May last year, the multinational upped its stake to 76 per cent with a view to taking 100 per cent control by 2024. The US$1 billion deal, which valued Deciem at US$2.2 billion, ranked as ELC’s largest acquisition to date. In June 2021, the comparison website, Skincare Hero, revealed that The Ordinary was the most searched-for skincare brand in the world - ahead of Dove and Bioderma. The twin drivers of success for The Ordinary, known as TO to its army of fans, are affordable prices and the endorsement of celebrity fans such as Kim Kardashian. The Ordinary accounts for 80 per cent of Deciem’s total sales and the company has announced it will focus on science-first functional skincare, led by The Ordinary and NIOD, an acronym for Non-Invasive Options in Dermal Science. In Australia, NIOD is available through Myer, Adore Beauty, Lookfantastic and other leading e-tailers. In pursuit of this re-structure, Deciem will shutter four of its original brands - HIF, Hylamide, Abnomaly and The Chemistry Brand. According to a company statement - “The Ordinary will continue to raise communication and pricing integrity in the beauty industry,

FARFETCH GROUP ROLLS OUT OVER 100 BEAUTY BRANDS Luxury beauty is the gift that keeps on giving. Bain & Co, the global management consultant, predicts that the global luxury beauty category will reach US$69 billion by 2025 to become the second largest sector in the worldwide personal luxury market. Retail Beauty recently reported that Farfetch, the luxury e-commerce platform, had acquired Violet Grey, the US-based cult luxury beauty retailer, in a bid to launch the platform, Beauty on the Farfetch Marketplace. The moment has arrived. Last week, Farfetch rolled out more than 100 makeup, skincare, haircare, fragrance and grooming brands. Established and niche names include Tom Ford, La Mer, Charlotte Tilbury, Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Sisley Paris, Olaplex, YSL Beauty, Westman Atelier, Chantecaille, Cle de Peau, Christophe Robin, Augustinus Bader, Kjaer Weis, Maison Martin Margiela, By Terry, Susanne Kaufmann and Dr Barbara Sturm. The beauty brands are available across three core businesses Farfetch.com, Browns, the iconic UK fashion and luxury goods boutique, and the New Guards Group, the Italian luxury fashion holding company acquired by Farfetch in 2019. Founded in 2007, Farfetch posted annual sales of US$2.3 billion and gross merchandise volume of US$4.2 billion in 2021. The company’s goal is to offer the best luxury beauty products to service customers across all ages, races, cultures and genders, says Holli Rogers, chief brand officer of Farfetch and chair of Browns.

Hylamide is one of four brands that has been discontinued.

while NIOD will always be our platform for pushing the limits of science in skin care. This new approach will power us to do more of what you love, while allowing us the space to innovate with new brands in the future.”

“All of our companies have different perspectives but we are united in the same goal, which is to take beauty beyond boundaries,” she adds. “The acquisition of upscale LA beauty retailer Violet Grey in January this year was a clear demonstration Makeup artist @isamayaffrench is a member of the of intent.” #FARFETCHBeautyGlobalCollective. Farfetch has a significant percentage of Gen Z and Millennial customers. Its foray into beauty puts it in direct competition with leading international beauty retailers, including Sephora, Ulta Beauty, Space NK, department stores and fashion e-tailers such as Net-a-Porter. In early April, Farfetch also invested US$200 million in the storied US department store group, Neiman Marcus, to expand its innovation and digital capabilities . RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |29

Better and Balanced Your skin can benefit from pre & probiotic products.

From yummy treats like kimchi, yoghurt and sauerkraut to refreshing kombucha and kefir, these foods have been enjoyed for generations and often make an appearance in our diets and pantries. Besides being tasty, these foods have internal health benefits too. Probiotic foods are known to be packed full of good bacteria and they’re essential in keeping your body’s balance in check by promoting gut health. So, why is this important? The answer lies within your gut function. When it’s in optimum working order, your body is able to keep bad bacteria out, help digest food, and aid your organs to work to its full potential. We’re talking about everything from better brain function to clearer skin… the list goes on. Just like how probiotics can help out your internal organs, the same can be said for your skin. Skin Physics®’ newest range - Biome Balance - is boosted with pre and probiotics to strengthen your skin’s barrier and improve skin quality.

Here’s the lowdown on pre and probiotic skincare as well as a deep-dive into the range.

What’s Inside There are four hero ingredients that are inside Skin Physics®’ newest range. For starters, ProRenew Complex is a probiotic that promotes epidermal growth, the production of antimicrobial peptides and keratinocyte cohesion to improve skin quality. There’s also Repair Complex, a biotechnological active ingredient that’s sourced from probiotic bifidobacteria to support cell function and protection, as well as protect skin against UV-damage. In addition, Mirabilis Jalapa Extract works to target sensitive skin issues by supporting the epidermis’ function, and Vitamin B3, also known as Niacinamide, can address skin pigmentation, refine pores, and improve skin elasticity.

How It Works Your skin is a porous surface that features billions of little bacteria living on its surface, which is also called the microbiome. The function of a microbiome is to form a really fine protective layer, keeping hydration locked in and maintaining overall balance. When your microbiome is out of whack, your skin can be more susceptible to dryness, breakouts, redness, inflammation and accelerated ageing.

The Proof All of Skin Physics®’ hero ingredients in the new Biome Balance range have been tested for its efficacy. ProRenew Complex was tested on volunteers, and with extended daily use of up to two weeks, it was shown that skin had an accelerated rate of renewal, and the barrier function showed an improved recovery rate. The efficacy of Mirabilis Jalapa Extract was examined via in vivo tests, where twice daily applications of this ingredient on skin revealed a reduction in skin redness and improvement in skin resilience. The panel also noticed that the ingredient could alleviate skin discomfort by approximately 30 percent. Repair Complex, which is sourced from probiotic bifidobacteria, was seen to be able to strengthen the cellular immune system, protect skin against UV damage and stimulate DNA repair. Plus, the special ingredient could improve cell production processes, boost the lifespan of cells and protect skin from photoageing. As for Niacinamide, which is also known as Vitamin B3, this ingredient was proven to address pigmentation by lightening skin, making it appropriate to use for those with uneven skin tone or blemished skin. It also showed an effect on fine lines and wrinkles; specifically, the ingredient could maintain the firmness and smoothness of skin, with improvement shown at both the 8 and 12 week mark.

Explore The Range Skin Physics®’ Biome Balance range may seem like a pared-back collection but it features the essential steps of a good skincare regimen. Start your day with the Prebiotic Multi Cleansing Oil, a totally luxurious solution that has the ability to break down dirt, oil and daily debris. This hard-working cleanser feels incredibly nourishing, and can also be used as part of a double-cleanse routine as it’s ace at breaking down makeup, and is boosted with Rosemary Extract to address premature ageing. Next, restore lost moisture with the Intensive Pro Renewal Serum which features a multitude of probiotic lysates to improve skin quality, increase skin barrier resilience and boost skin with antioxidants to slow down the signs of ageing. Besides the hero ingredients, this product also features Vitamin E and Hyaluronic Acid to lock moisture in. Up hydration levels with the Daily Moisturising Gel which is loaded with probiotic ingredients to support the skin’s microbiota. It can also address the barrier function, as well as uneven skin tone and dryness thanks to the hero ingredients, whilst Swiss Garden Cress Sprout and Red Algae Extract can hone in on age spots and promote overall moisture in the skin. For something that’s a little richer and fitting for nighttime usage, the Probiotic Overnight Repair Cream is the way to go, and is loaded with nourishing oils like Avocado, Apricot and Meadowfoam Seed to support the skin’s natural protective barrier.

Who’s It Good For? Due to the multifaceted benefits of the range, the products can be used on all skin types, including normal, combination, oily and dry. Sensitive skin types, in particular, should pay attention to this range as it can combat redness and strengthen the skin’s barrier. For more information on the Skin Physics® range contact retail@biophysicsgroup.com.

Winter

wonders

Prevent dry skin with the top skincare products to help beat the winter chills.

Retreatment Botanics Firming Eye Contour Cream - www.retreatmentbotanics.com DermaGen Active 8 Serum - www.dermagen.net.au Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Lift and Firm Day Cream SPF15+ - www.elizabetharden.com.au Weleda Skin Food Body Lotion - www.weleda.com.au Garnier SkinActive Vitamin C Brightening Serum - www.garnier.com.au Nude by Nature Serum - www.nudebynature.com.au Alcapoc Japonica Face Oil for Dry Skin - www.alcapoc.com.au Q+A Skincare Grapefruit Cleansing Balm - www.qandaskin.com

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Photos Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Trinny London Overnight Sensation Retinal+ Serum - www.trinnylondon.com Jurlique Moisture Plus Rare Rose Lotion - www.jurlique.com Natio Ageless Extra Firming Night Cream - www.natio.com.au La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Balm - www.laroche-posay.com.au Skin Physics Probiotic Overnight Repair Cream - wwww.skinphysics.com.au The Jojoba Company Probiotic Jojoba Milk - www.thejojobacompany.com.au Bondi Sands Begin Again Vitamin B3 Serum - www.bondisands.com.au Boost Lab Bio-Active Eye Reset Serum - www.boostlabco.com Mor Marshmallow Petals Hand & Nail Cream - www.morboutique.com Avène DermAbsolu Recontouring Mask - www.avene.com.au

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FEATURE

De-coding skincare

formulations

Dermatologist Dr Leona Yip has a deep understanding of the complexities surrounding skincare formulations and sunscreens. She shares with Retail Beauty her application guidelines, such Xxxx as layering and regimes,by plus topxxxxxxx tips on how to de-code key active ingredients as well as sunscreens.

SKINCARE RECOMMENDATION PRINCIPLES When recommending skincare to consumers, products labelled as ‘Natural’ and ‘Organic’ skincare products are not the best or safest. These products often contain highly allergenic fragrances and essential oils including cinnamal, balsam of Peru, limonene, linalool, sandalwood, lavender etc. It is up to the beauty advisors to debunk the myth that choosing these options is better for the skin. Instead, it is important to recommend products that are hypoallergenic, fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Always research the brand’s reputation and quality of scientific research behind the products. Look at the product formulation as well as the packaging innovation - there are less need for preservatives if the product formulas are manufactured and packaged to a high standard.

DE-CODING THE INGREDIENTS LIST The full ingredient list is typically listed on the packaging from the highest to lowest concentrations. Ingredients are usually listed by their approved chemical name so may be different to the packaging or marketing. Examples: VITAMIN C = ASCORBIC ACID LIPO-HYDROXY-ACID (LHA) = CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID VITAMIN B3 = NIACINAMIDE NEUROSENSINE = ACETYL DI-PEPTIDE-CETYL ESTER Remember, less is more! Each active ingredient has its optimal concentration. More isn’t always better as there is a balance between efficacy and tolerance.

CHOOSING A FACIAL MOISTURISER The basic rule of thumb is that you should choose a moisturiser based on the customer’s skin type. Measure the extent of skin dryness – if they have very dry skin, eczema and/or rosacea skin, then choose a greasier cream or ointment for them. If the customer has the presence of greasy skin and acne, then recommend a gel or lighter lotions. Also consider the climate. You should be 34| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

recommending a lighter moisturiser in warmer months, and greasier moisturisers in colder months. Enquire about their current regime and the types of corrective serums and creams they are using. If the client is using retinoids and AHAs, always moisturise when using these active ingredients to avoid stripping the skin of its natural barrier.

TOP HERO INGREDIENTS IN SKIN COSMECEUTICALS

• Hyaluronic acid – HA is a naturally occurring substance in body connective tissue including the skin, eyes, joints, etc. It has a number of biological functions in the skin including drawing moisture into skin (a humectant), maintaining skin plumpness and fullness to give the appearance of youthful skin, as well as cushioning of blood vessels, nerves and skin appendages. Natural HA levels dramatically deplete with age leading to signs of skin ageing that include loss of skin elasticity and volume, fine lines and wrinkles. Using a topical HA can improve skin hydration and plump superficial lines and wrinkles. • Retinol - Is known as the ‘holy grail’ of anti-ageing skincare. Retinol is the commonest form of a mild retinoid (vitamin A derivative) used in over-the-counter skincare. It requires a twostep conversion to the active form (retinoic acid) within the skin. It binds to retinoid acid receptors (RARs) in skin to exert effects and is less irritating so is better tolerated than prescription retinoic acid. Retinol deteriorates when light-exposed, so it needs to be stored in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. It may increase the risk of sun sensitivity so should be applied at night. Skin irritation and flaking are common due to the effects on the skin barrier, especially with initial applications. Always recommend your client builds up use slowly and ALWAYS moisturise after application. Avoid or use cautiously in sensitive skin and rosacea. Daily use is not essential to see the benefits of retinol. For better tolerance, apply three to four times per week. Avoid use in pregnancy.

FEATURE

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – There are many benefits of niacinamide in skincare. For acne-prone skin it is soothing and sebum-balancing, for sensitive or dry skin it improves hydration and skin barrier function, for rosacea it calms inflammation and redness and it also has anti-ageing benefits by improving skin pigmentation and blotchiness. It is an ingredient well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin and is a good ingredient to pair with irritating actives including retinol, AHAs and BHAs. • AHAs and BHAs - AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid and BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid. AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugary fruits, with glycolic acid being the most common. They help exfoliate the surface of your skin so that new, more evenly pigmented skin cells may generate and take their place. Lactic acid is another common AHA. BHAs are oil-soluble. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA. It’s a trusted source as an acne treatment with anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory activity, as well as its ability to refine skin pores. • Antioxidants – The most common anti-oxidants in skincare are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, ferulic acid and resveratrol. Vitamin C is commonly combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid to improve formulation stability. Vitamin C is extremely sensitive to light and air, so oxidises quickly. Skin benefits of antioxidants include reduce skin oxidative damage such as UV, pollution, screens and devices, brightening of the skin complexion and improves discolouration and improves fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen synthesis.

When recommending skincare to consumers, products labelled as ‘Natural’ and ‘Organic’ skincare products are not the best or safest.

• • • • • •

PM: AHAs/BHAs + niacinamide OR hyaluronic acid Some actives do not pair well due to skin irritation risk Retinol + Vit C Retinol + AHAs/BHAs Vit C + AHAs/BHAs Topical acne prescription medications + retinol/AHAs/BHAs

SUNSCREENS Sunscreens protect skin from UV radiation. This prevents sun damage and skin cancers and also prevents premature skin ageing. Sunscreens work in one of two ways – the active ingredients either absorb or reflect the UV radiation. Chemical filters (organic molecules) • Absorb and deactivate UV radiation. • ~ 30 chemical filters approved for use. • Different filters absorb different wavelengths, hence often combined. Physical blockers (inorganic molecules i.e. zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) • Reflect UV rays away from skin. Chemical and physical sunscreens are similarly effective and many sunscreen products have a combination of both. Sunscreen allergy is rare - most reactions are to preservatives and fragrances. What to consider recommending a sunscreen: • Fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic. • Physical sunscreens less tolerable than chemical sunscreens i.e. texture, cosmesis. • Physical and tinted sunscreens better for visible light protection e.g. melasma, lupus. • Caution spray sunscreens and under-usage. • Sunscreen still needed even if using moisturiser or foundation with SPF. The “best” sunscreen is a personal choice and is the one your customer will wear regularly. ■

SKINCARE APPLICATION ORDER Correct application order essential to ensure optimal absorption of actives with minimal interference from other products. As a general rule of thumb, apply product in order of thinnest to thickest llow Always a consistency. The following can be used mins to 0 2 n sunscree as a guide: stratum with the te a r g te re in 1. Skin cleanser layer befo corneum on ti 2. Prescription topical medications a c li p p another a 3. Toners and serums turiser, e.g. mois 4. Eye cream and face moisturising cream makeup. 5. Sunscreen (usually the last step, but lighter chemical sunscreen lotions may be applied before a thicker moisturiser)

TIP:

PAIRING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Pairing or layering complementary actives help enhance effects or improve tolerability of product • AM: Vit C + hyaluronic acid OR niacinamide • PM: Retinol + niacinamide OR hyaluronic acid

ABOUT DR LEONA YIP Dr Leona Yip, MBCHB PhD FACD, is a general, surgical and laser dermatologist; as well as an alopecia subspecialist. She is Founding Partner and Director of Skin Partners based at West End in central Brisbane. Her clinical approach is strongly evidence-based as well as holistic, taking into account preventative lifestyle measures and the use of cosmeceutical skin care to optimise skin health and treatment outcomes for her patients. She is a member of the Dermatology Expert Group, Dermatology Therapeutic Guidelines version 4 (2016) and version 5 (2022). Dr Yip is passionate about skin health advocacy especially in her role as Advocate for The Australasian College of Dermatologists, where she regularly interacts with skin health organisations and media to improve skin health literacy. Instagram: @drleonayip_dermo

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |35

The new glow-to Collagen Beauty VERISOL® Bioactive Collagen Peptides + Vitamin C for real results

Plump, glowing skin just got easier with new Collagen Beauty Tablets. Promising to make taking daily collagen easy without compromising on superior quality & outstanding results, Collagen Beauty Tablets help to increase skin hydration, support skin elasticity, and strengthen hair & nails. The original Collagen Beauty powders have racked up over 2000 glowing fivestar reviews from women since their 2017 launch, earning cult status with a Collagen Beauty selling every 2 minutes. Available in unflavoured and in four natural flavours, the superior efficacy of the products all come down to the VERISOL® Bioactive Collagen Peptides, plus bioavailable sources of natural vitamin C & zinc. This same success was built into the new Collagen Beauty Tablets, with all natural active ingredients to deliver real results.

Together the Collagen Beauty range ensures customers never miss their daily collagen. Collagen Beauty Tablets RRP $49.95 Perfect for on-the-go. Collagen Beauty Unflavoured RRP $34.95 (225g) & $52.95 (450g) Perfect to add to coffees, smoothies and food. Collagen Beauty Flavours RRP $45.95 Perfect to drink straight on water. Available in Waterberry, Wildflower, Lemon Lime & Tropical.

For more information on the Collagen Beauty range contact: orders@nutraorganics.com.au Always read the label and follow the directions for use.

Beauty Within The ingestible beauty category is growing, and growing fast. Here’s our round up of the top products you need to know about.

Ora Hormonal Balance - www.orahealth.com.au Life-Space Probiotics+ Skin Glow - www.lifespaceprobiotics.com Redrinks Re’new Skin & Glow Fruit Fizz - www.redrinks.co Swisse Collagen Glow Gummies - www.swisse.com.au Kiyomee Blends Cleanse Blueberry Collagen - www.kiyomeeblends.com WelleCo The Hair Elixir - www.welleco.com.au Vida Glow Hairology - www.vidaglow.com Me Today Energise - www.metoday.com Life Botanics Digestion + Skin - www.lifebotanics.com.au Habitual Beauty Advanced Skin + Gut Health Collagen Elixir in Sicilian Blood Orange - www.habitualbeauty.co

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Photos Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Évolis Let There Be Hair - www.evolisproducts.com.au Opty.NC Complete Skin Food Elixir Ultimate 1.0 - www.optimanutricosmetics.com.au Peppy Co SkinBiotics - www.peppyco.com ANC Peaceful Sleep - www.a-n-c.com Jeunesse L1fe CirQul8 - www.jeunesseglobal.com Swiish Beauty Buzz Adaptogenic Collagen Coffee - www.swiish.com Intu Wellness Sleep & Skin Renewal - www.intuwellness.com Mayella Acai Berry Beautiful - www.mayellaorganic.com Dr Lewinn’s Marine Collagen Peptide+ Inner Beauty Liquid Shot and Powder - www.drlewinns.com.au

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TRENDS

by Xxxx xxxxxxx

Ingestible beauty innovations towards

holistic wellness This convergence of beauty and wellness will be important for consumers seeking products that can address key health issues such as aging, hair loss and hormonal imbalances. By Michelle Teodoro, Global Food Science Analyst, Mintel

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TRENDS

eauty and skin health support from the inside out can provide an alternative to conventional makeup and beauty routines by bringing more skin health and beauty-related benefits to food, drink and supplements. Between January 2017 to December 2021, global food, drink and supplements launches with functional beauty claims* increased by 78% according to Mintel Global New Products Database. Launches in APAC show dynamic activity in ingestible beauty innovation.

INGESTIBLE BEAUTY AS A HEALTHY AGEING SOLUTION The demand for healthy ageing is expanding into broader demographics from seniors to the middle-aged and Millennials. This is driven by the rise of preventive health and heightened self-care and active lifestyle practices. Mintel research shows that about 7 in 10 consumers in Australia and New Zealand agree that a healthy diet can be more beneficial to skin/hair than the products you use. Collagen is an on-trend beauty wellness ingredient and is seen as having a positive effect on complexion and supporting a more youthful appearance. While collagen is still the trendiest beauty ingredient on the market, hyaluronic acid is gaining interest, which is known to trap water inside tissue cells, keep the eyes moist, the joints lubricated, and the skin hydrated and youthful. Coupling hyaluronic acid with more established beauty ingredients such as collagen could drive awareness, as consumers are already more familiar with the latter’s beauty benefits. Other ingredients to watch in this space are proteoglycan for skin aging and joint health, and ceramides for healthy skin lipids. Ceramides are naturally present in skin cells but decline with age, therefore, the skin barrier becomes more vulnerable. Researchers have advised taking phytoceramide supplements (or ceramides derived from plants) to help the body elevate its natural levels.

The demand for healthy ageing is expanding into broader demographics from seniors to the middle-aged and Millennials.

BOOST NUTRITION FOR HAIR HEALTH Hair loss can have many causes such as stress, health issues (e.g. diabetes), genetics, age, or improper nutrition in one’s diet (e.g. deficiency in certain nutrients). Mintel data shows that 53% of Indian consumers would be interested in beauty supplement products that can prevent hair fall and support healthy/strong hair, while 64% of Chinese consumers are interested in nourishing claims in haircare products. Given the strong consumer interest in hair health, the anti-hair loss ingestible will be sought after in the category. Brands can demonstrate how food, drink and supplements for hair loss are the next natural step beyond topical remedies or explore nutrients and ingredients that are proven to be multifunctional and support both physical and hair health.

INGESTIBLE BEAUTY THAT ADDRESSES WOMEN’S HORMONAL CYCLES The fluctuations in women’s hormone levels have a significant effect on physical, emotional, and mental health. From premenstrual syndrome (PMS) to painful periods and other symptoms of hormonal imbalance, women will increasingly look for ingestible beauty products that provide targeted nutritional support for these concerns. According to the Mintel Trend ‘Make it Mine’, personalised offerings will become expected, as a one-size-fits-all approach is no longer enough for health and wellbeing. In the US, 31% of supplements users think a specific formula for people like themselves is important. As consumers in APAC are recognising the link between overall health and good skin regardless of age, ingestible beauty innovations within the food, drink and supplements sector, are now ripe for growth and are among the key trends to watch this year. ■

Michelle Teodoro, Global Food Science Analyst, Mintel

*beauty benefits; skin, nails & hair; skin disorders; UV protection; beauty-enhancing www.mintel.com

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |41

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** The information presented here is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or to be viewed as a substitute for professional medical advice. Results may vary. Various studies have suggested benefits following daily consumption of collagen for several months. For information about your health and wellness, please speak to a health professional.

FEATURE

by Xxxx xxxxxxx

Collagen

supplements The science behind the health benefits by Dr Tim Crowe

THE STRUCTURE OF COLLAGEN Collagen’s key role in the body is as a major structural protein. You’ll find it in many tissues including tendons, ligaments, cartilage, blood vessels and skin. It is so abundant, that it makes up almost 30 percent of our total protein mass. The structure of collagen has a triple helix arrangement of long chains of amino acids. Think of collagen as like a rope with many fibres intertwined. This gives collagen a lot of strength. 44| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

No wonder its leading role is as a scaffold, giving structure and strength to tissues such as skin and bones. One of the things that makes collagen different to other proteins is its unique amino acid mix. For starters, every third residue is a glycine amino acid. And it mostly follows a common repeating sequence of just three amino acids: glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. It is that last guy, hydroxyproline, that is unique to collagen.

FEATURE

Hydroxyproline is made from proline and you need vitamin C to make it happen. The classic vitamin C deficiency disease of scurvy is a disease of very weak collagen. That explains the bruising and bleeding gums seen in this disease. Collagen though is not one molecule. There are at least 28 distinct types. But it is types I, II and III collagens that are the most abundant. You’ll find type I collagen in the connective tissue of tendons, ligaments, corneas, bones and skin. Type III collagen usually is found along with type I collagen in the skin and blood vessels. Type II collagen is mostly found in cartilage.

WHY HYDROLYSED?

One of the things that makes collagen different to other proteins is its unique amino acid mix.

When it comes to oral collagen supplements, it is hydrolysed collagen that dominates the market. Hydrolysed simply means the breaking down of a molecule with water. If you heat collagen, you denature the protein and are left with gelatin. Gelatin is a great gelling agent for use in food and beverages, but it is a large molecule and fairly insoluble. Hydrolysed proteins are smaller in length, so they’re absorbed faster. Hydrolysed collagen is also much more soluble in water than gelatin. That makes hydrolysed collagen more convenient to put into drinks. The collagen used in most supplements comes from many sources including cattle, pigs, chicken, and marine sources. It is a nice use of what would be a waste product in the processing of these animals and fish for human consumption.

COLLAGEN METABOLISM 101 But why even bother with taking a collagen supplement? Surely all protein just becomes an amino acid soup in our body after digestion? It’s a common criticism I read about collagen supplements in the popular press. Article after article completely dismissing any benefit of it because of this digestion issue. If collagen was completely digested to single amino acids, then such criticism would be valid. The thing is that is not the case. Collagen peptides are absorbed into the bloodstream and are available as single amino acids and unique dipeptides and tripeptides. These small peptides have a unique fingerprint. They contain lots of hydroxyproline-proline and hydroxyprolineglycine containing sequences. Remember: hydroxyproline is unique to collagen so these tiny peptide fragments can only exist in the blood from collagen breakdown. After consuming collagen, it is possible to measure levels of these unique collagen peptides in the blood. So, they certainly can pass through the digestion and absorption process. The collagen peptides and free amino acids then distribute around the body, especially to the skin. At least in rat studies, those collagen peptides can remain in place in the skin for up to two weeks. It gets even more interesting. These collagen peptides can also function as signalling molecules. One theory is that collagen peptides in the blood are a marker for collagen breakdown. Think of these peptides as acting to signal the body that it needs to produce more collagen. Collagen peptides can bind to receptors on the surface of fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are skin cells that are major factories for….collagen. And guess what the binding of collagen peptides to fibroblast receptors does? It stimulates them to produce collagen. But it is not just collagen these peptides stimulate

the production of. You see more elastin (for skin elasticity) and hyaluronic acid (for water retention) made too. Now let’s look at what clinical trials have to say happens when you take collagen as a supplement.

THE EVIDENCE IS GROWING In a recent paper, published in the International Journal of Dermatology, 19 clinical trials were included. All the clinical trials were randomised double-blinded placebo-controlled trials. That means both the participants in the study and the researchers assessing the effects were blinded to if a person got the collagen or a placebo. That removes a lot of bias. And the results of this systematic review were impressive. A clear and consistent benefit of hydrolysed collagen on skin hydration, skin elasticity, skin density and wrinkles. Marine/fish collagen was the most common source of collagen used in the trials. But bovine, porcine and chicken were all popular as well. Doses used ranged from 0.6 g to 12 g per day for 1 to 3 months. No, not all research is funded by collagen companies. The recent meta-analysis also reported that they could not see any evidence of a publication bias. Publication bias is a sign that positive studies were more likely to be published – at the expense of less favourable research which is buried. That point on publication bias is a critical one. That’s because a common criticism I see of collagen supplements in dismissing any benefit they can have is that the positive evidence is because the research is industry-sponsored. That’s a dog whistle that it can’t be trusted. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |45

FEATURE Firstly, that is an absolute lazy argument when it comes to critiquing scientific evidence. Research should be evaluated on the merits of the study, not who funded it. And do you know what else? Among those 19 clinical trials covered in the review, seven of them were not funded by a manufacturer of collagen supplements. Nor did any of the research team in those studies have any conflicts of interest to declare. And those ‘untainted’ studies were just as likely to report a positive benefit as studies funded by industry.

OTHER BENEFITS OF COLLAGEN I’ve focussed this update on the benefits of hydrolysed collagen on skin health, but the research evidence in other areas such as osteoarthritis and recovery joint from injuries is growing. And the research looks promising so far and why such supplements are gaining wider adoption. But it is not all about skin and joints. There is some interesting preliminary research showing that hydrolysed collagen may be effective at improving insulin sensitivity, glucose and lipid levels, and reducing hypertension in people with type 2 diabetes. So, watch this space as the research develops. Dr Tim Crowe

When it comes to oral collagen supplements, it is hydrolysed collagen that dominates the market. HOW MUCH TO TAKE If you want to trial collagen yourself, look past all the glossy promotion of expensive powdered supplements touted by Insta influencers. Just evaluate a supplement based on price. For that, look at how much actual collagen is in it and work out the price per gram. That is the best way to shop around to make valid comparisons. Some supplements may have an extensive list of other ingredients such as vitamins, minerals and herbals. But it is the collagen that is the star of the show here so just focus on that. Collagen from any animal or fish source are your options and just a few grams a day will be enough. Doses as low as 1 gram per 46| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

day have shown benefits in clinical trials. Taking more than 10 grams per day is overkill. And it may be better to take it between meals to avoid interference from other protein sources. And ignore claims made about ‘vegan collagen’. It is a scam. Yes, you read that correctly. What is promoted as ‘vegan collagen’ does not have any of the unique hydroxyproline peptides. It is normally just an amino acid soup with a lot of other vitamins, minerals and botanicals thrown in. It is promoted as a ‘collagen booster’ but don’t go looking for any human clinical research to support these claims. There is zilch. There is lab-made collagen being developed which is done by microbial fermentation, but this is a niche early-stage development product. It is expensive and GMO. I have no issue with GMOs, but I doubt few people who follow a vegan diet would be up for it.

WHAT IT ALL MEANS For hydrolysed collagen, it reads like a shopping list of health benefits that sound too good to be true. At least with collagen, there definitely appears to be something to the story – especially for skin health. All for something that is naturally part of foods and has little evidence of any adverse problems. There is growing scientific evidence to support many of the health claims made about collagen. From improving skin health to even helping with sports injury recovery and osteoarthritis. There is growing scientific evidence for the use of collagen supplements. ■

ABOUT DR TIM CROWE Dr Tim Crowe is an Advanced Accredited Practising Dietitian, nutrition scientist and science communicator. Connect with him at www.thinkingnutrition.com.au or through his Thinking Nutrition podcast.

Sign up to take on this year’s Dry July challenge, or support someone else who has, and you can help fund 200 Look Good Feel Better workshops across Australia. You can participate alone, or take on the challenge as part of a team. To register or donate, visit dryjuly.com/beneficiaries/LookGoodFeelBetter

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industries, FERMIO chose fermentation as the foundation for its product development program. Fermented foods have been

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Wellness made simple!

FERMIO NUTRITIONAL CLEANSE Cleanse. Balance. Nourish

FERMIO’s Nutritional Cleanse is a simple and convenient wellness formula that delivers nutrients essential for digestive balance and resilience. Fermentation-enriched foods are abundant in good bacteria, vitamins, trace minerals, enzymes and organic acids. FERMIO uses its proprietary triple fermentation technology to combine 88 whole foods and naturally active ingredients to: • Gently cleanse the digestive system • Balance the gut microbiome • Nourish the body with phytonutrients EACH NATURALLY FLAVOURED SUPERFRUITS & BERRY SHOT FEATURES: • FERMIO’s signature blend of 88 triple-fermented whole foods • Prebiotics with 4.8g of fibre per serve • Plant-based antioxidants • Vitamin B complex, minerals and micronutrients BENEFITS: • Gentle digestive reset to kickstart healthy habits • Improves digestive comfort & microbiome resilience • Convenient once-daily serving in ready to drink bottles • Flexible regimens – available in 8 Day or 4 Week Program

FERMIO, the new Australian wellness company that trades in nutritional fermentation biotechnology. The brand’s hero product, a science-backed Nutritional Cleanse, harnesses the nourishing power of triplefermented whole foods to realign your digestion.

EACH STIMULANT AND CAFFEINE-FREE TROPICAL POWDER SACHET FEATURES: • FERMIO’s signature blend of 66 triple-fermented whole foods • 2800mg of patented premium Japanese marine collagen dipeptides • Mental focus-enhancing and calming nootropics • Natural actives for energy metabolism and sugar balance

FERMIO COLLAGEN + CLARITY Elasticity. Hydration. Focus

FERMIO’s Collagen + Clarity is formulated for skin health, mental focus, stress resilience and digestive wellness. An Australian first featuring patented premium marine collagen dipeptides with clinical benefits in skin integrity and wound healing, FERMIO cleverly combines mental clarity-boosting nootropics with triple-fermented nutrients to: • Stimulate collagen and elastin production • Protect skin from the harmful effects of stress • Maintain the integrity of the gut-skin and gut-brain axis

BENEFITS: • Rejuvenates skin, hair, nail and mental focus for clarity from the inside out • Clinically researched collagen dipeptides are 3-5 times more predictably absorbed than standard collagen • Enhances the skin microbiome’s resilience to environmental, metabolic and mental stressors • Convenient once-daily powder mixes easily with water or into smoothies

The only collagen supplement in the Australian market that features a state-of-the-art Japanese dipeptide blend that blows other formulas bioavailability claims out of the water.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |49

FEATURE

CILKBEAUTY.CO

Ingestible Beauty There’s no arguing that our lives have been turned upside down as a result of Covid-19. Just when we thought we were out of the woods, cases have begun rising exponentially. Working in retail during these times can be extremely stressful, not only because of Discover a holistic approach to but also due to the fear, nervousness and worry of catching Covid, achieving healthy, radiant-looking dealing with difficult customers.skin. Lysn psychologist Nancy Sokarno provides her ways to cope. by NIKITA PAPAS by Xxxx xxxxxxx

50| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

FEATURE

Fuelled by the expertise of key opinion leaders including aesthetic doctors, dermatologists, dieticians and naturopaths, skincare protocols that speak to a holistic approach are resonating with receptive, wellness-focussed consumers. THE RISE OF NUTRACEUTICALS Undoubtedly, the global pandemic has highlighted our ‘fragility’ and the need to maintain a robust immune system from the inside out. With ‘health’ firmly cemented as the future of skincare, the unwavering focus on self-care, wellbeing, and sustenance has seen consumers become increasingly savvy about efficacious, ingredientdriven skincare. The adopted at-home rituals that contributed to the health of our skin during periods of lockdown, have become entrenched into our daily routines. Fuelled by the expertise of key opinion leaders including aesthetic doctors, dermatologists, dieticians and naturopaths, skincare protocols that speak to a holistic approach are resonating with receptive, wellness-focussed consumers. The conversation is expanding to embrace restoration of the skin microbiome and skin barrier function, the crucial gut-skin axis, and the role of ingestible supplements, (particularly bioactive collagen peptides), to promote healthy, radiant-looking skin. Enter nutraceuticals. According to Insights Analytics, the size of the global ingestible beauty market was valued at US$3.29 billion in 2021, and is expected to reach US$8.30 billion by 2030. The forecasted, steadfast growth is impressive for a category that is still relatively new. Our considered skincare arsenal is no longer restricted to the topical formulations housed in the bathroom cabinet. A growing body of scientific evidence is emerging to support the benefits of premium ingestible supplements, to achieve and maintain the health of our skin. Suddenly, the retail landscape has become saturated with an array of brands offering ingestible beauty solutions. From a marketing perspective, the brand narratives are engaging, the packaging is slick, and the claims are triggering the holistic-inspired purchasing decisions, we are now making about optimising the health of our skin. The dialogue has been consumed with allpervading mentions about collagen.

COLLAGEN DECODED Collagen is a hard, insoluble, and fibrous protein that occurs throughout the human body, but especially in the skin, bones, and connective tissues. “As the most abundant protein in the body, collagen forms the primary structural component of the dermis (or middle layer of the skin). It is responsible for strengthening and

AUSNZ.VIDAGLOW.COM

From The Inside Out

supporting skin, and plays an important role in cellular processes including tissue repair and immune response. In the dermis, collagen promotes a network of cells called fibroblasts upon which new cells can grow, and plays a role in replacing and restoring dead skin cells. As we age, (particularly from our mid-twenties), collagen becomes fragmented, the fibroblast function becomes impaired, and collagen production slows. The damage and depletion lead to visible signs of ageing including dry, sagging skin, fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of radiance”, says dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald (Complete Skin Specialists, VIC). Multiple kinds of collagen have been identified, but the vast majority are grouped into three categories, known as Types I, II, and III. Type I is the most abundant in the human body and like Type III, it’s aligned to improving skin elasticity and hydration, strengthening nails and hair, and promoting a healthy gut. Type II makes up the majority of the protein molecules found in cartilage – the connective tissue that protects bones at the joints. There are two primary forms of commercially available collagen supplements – bovine, sourced from cow by-products, and marine, extracted from fish by-products including the skin and scales. The latter is rich in Type I collagen that that has been shown to be absorbed up to 1.5 more efficiently with enhanced bioavailability – this equates to a higher absorption rate to achieve maximum results. To increase collagen’s bioavailability, the collagen found in leading supplements is hydrolysed – typically via an enzymatic process that results in the formation of peptides, to maximise absorption through the gastrointestinal tract.

OCEAN SOURCED In early 2021, ahead of international expansion, Vida Glow disrupted the nutraceutical arena with a future-perfect rebrand anchored by an arresting new visual identity. The relaunch spoke to the brand’s prioritisation of product efficacy, first-to-market innovation, and alignment to revered, ambassador skincare professionals. Vida Glow’s signature product - Natural Marine Collagen – utilises Type I collagen from sustainably sourced fish skin to improve skin firmness, and promote healthy hair and nails. The brand’s science-backed efficacy and clinical trials (conducted over an 8-week period on mature women), revealed that 70% of the participants recorded a significant improvement to eye wrinkles, and 68% experienced an increase in skin hydration. Available

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |51

FEATURE BOVINE BEAUTY

BYBETH.COM

VITA-SOL.COM

in Original, and 6 mouth-watering flavours including Blueberry, Mango, and Peach, the pre-portioned sachets offer a convenient daily fix of 100% dissolvable, bioavailable collagen with an absorption rate of 90%+. Created to deliver powerful changes through simple, daily wellness habits, Cilk Beauty’s clean and sustainable beauty supplements are designed to create and maintain healthy, luminous-looking skin from the inside out. The brand journey commenced in 2017 with the sensorial Rose Extract – a concentrated, antioxidant-rich elixir formulated with certified Organic Rosa Damascena (Damask Rose), to assist with the regeneration of epidermal skin cells, aid digestion, and hydrate from within. Recently launched, the brand’s Daily Radiance Collagen is formulated with Type I and III marine collagen sourced from fully traceable, discarded wild cod fish skins, from the pristine waters of Norway in the North Atlantic Ocean. Cilk Beauty’s considered processing of the skins excludes the use harsh chemicals to ensure maximum retention of the beneficial nutrients. The odorless formula offers 10,000mg of hydrolysed collagen peptides in one 10mg serve, making Daily Radiance Collagen one of the most potent, convenient, and affordable marine collagen supplements on the market.

52| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Habitual Beauty’s Advanced Skin + Gut Health Collagen Elixir is formulated with Type I and II hydrolysed collagen peptides, sustainably sourced from the hides of Argentinian bovine cattle. The innovative formula is also infused with 17 essential and non-essential amino acids, and is fortified with a proprietary blend of 24 bioactive ingredients. These include essential vitamins, minerals, omegas, digestive enzymes, and pre, pro and post biotics, to promote multiple gut and skin health benefits. Pre, pro, and post biotics? If we think of the gut as a garden, prebiotics are the soil and fertiliser, probiotics are the seeds that grow into plants, and postbiotics are the edible fruit. Simply put, prebiotics feed probiotics which produce beneficial postbiotics. Each one-serve sachet of Advanced Skin + Gut Health Collagen Elixir offers 10,000 mg of bioavailable collagen across 4 tantalising flavours - Dutch Chocolate, Madagascan Vanilla, Sicilian Blood Orange, and Yuzu + Finger Lime. By Beth’s premium, bovine collagen offering is ethically sourced from Australian pasteurised, grass-fed cattle backed by strict quality controls and best practice systems that consider traceability, food safety and sustainability. The formula utilises Type I and II collagen with a curated infusion of native, antioxidant-rich, hydrating botanicals including Muntries, Wattleseeds, Strawberry Gum, and Quandong. Often referred to as the ‘Desert Peach’, the Quandong fruit is renowned for its medicinal purposes, and superior levels of Vitamins C to stimulate collagen production, and fight free radicals responsible for premature ageing. Designed to be used for life, the signature By Beth refillable vessel is comprised of UV protected glass and wood – an ‘object of desire’ that acts as a constant reminder that beauty begins from within.

THE GUT-SKIN AXIS Founded in 2009 by Carla Oates (a pioneer of the nutraceutical category), The Beauty Chef offers a comprehensive range of bio-fermented, wholefood, probiotic-rich supplements to promote digestive health, glowing skin, and general wellbeing. Born from a mission to address her daughter’s skin allergies and eczema, (issues that she had also experienced as a child), Carla introduced her family to a gut-healing protocol that led to a profound wellness journey. An experienced Beauty Writer, she understood the power of the gut-skin axis, and began experimenting with lacto-fermenting, skin-loving superfoods in her Bondi kitchen. “Where there is gut inflammation, there will be skin inflammation – a leading cause of premature ageing and lacklustre skin. Studies also show that people who have a healthier gut microbiota, may have a healthier fatty acid profile in their skin – this profile contributes to a more hydrated, firmer, and radiant- looking complexion”, says Oats.

Our considered skincare arsenal is no longer restricted to the topical formulations housed in the bathroom cabinet. A growing body of scientific evidence is emerging to support the benefits of premium ingestible supplements, to achieve and maintain the health of our skin.

FEATURE The Beauty Chef ’s debut inner beauty powder was aptly named Glow. Infused with 18 certified organic wholefoods, this best-selling, nutrient-dense powder is designed to promote optimal gut and skin health. The supercharged formula is also infused with Provitamin A and Zinc to combat the visible signs of ageing, fortify hair, nails and immunity. “Think of it as your daily multivitamin, specifically formulated to support gut health, create glowing skin from within, and improve your overall wellbeing”, says Oates. To amplify the powder’s glow-boosting benefits, the brand’s Collagen Inner Beauty Boost liquid elixir is formulated with an array of free radical scavengers including antioxidant-rich Papaya and Pomegranate Extracts, and Vitamin C to promote the production of collagen. Both these vegan products are formulated with The Beauty Chef ’s exclusive ‘Flora Culture’ bio-fermentation process – a unique method that utilises12 species of beneficial bacteria to break down the ingredients and supercharge their bioavailability. Developed by nutritionist and skin expert, Fiona Tuck, VitaSol’s range includes pure marine collagen, organic herbal blends, and nutritionally dense wholefood powders to target specific skin concerns. Free from added sugar, artificial sweeteners and additives, the formulas are comprised of organic plant derived vitamins, minerals, sprouted blends, pre and post biotics, and phytonutrients to support gut and skin health. “Nourishing the body with bioavailable ingredients sourced from wholefoods is the foundation to achieving healthy, radiant- looking skin. I advocate a holistic approach that embraces - first and foremost - a healthy diet, complemented by premium nutraceutical supplements, and an efficacious topical skincare routine. This is the future of beauty”, says Tuck. Designed to support liver, gut and skin health, Vita-Sol’s Purity Greens is formulated with an organic greens and sprout blend that includes Dandelion, Kiwi Fruit, Milk Thistle, organic greens, and cruciferous (cabbage family) vegetables.

THEBEAUTYCHEF.COM

HABITUALBEAUTY.CO

Showcasing a refreshing flavour with a hint of lime, the nourishing gut powder is also blended with Vitamin C sourced from organic Acerola Cherries, prebiotic fibre from organic Jerusalem Artichoke, B Vitamins and Zinc – consider it a supercharged, multi-active concentrate ideal for problematic skin. Used in conjunction with a prescribed, topical skincare routine, Purity Greens is designed to promote a healthy, clarified-looking complexion.

LAST WORD As the largest and most readily visible organ in the human body, skin provides valuable insights about our inner health. The epidermal skin on our faces is arguably the most susceptible to premature ageing including fine lines and wrinkles, loss of firmness and radiance. To thrive and remain resilient, skincare requires a holistic approach that begins with a balanced, wholefood diet rich in fruit and vegetables, and healthy sources of fat and protein. Diet is paramount, but our love affair with topical skincare will remain unwavering. The beauty highway has now expanded to embrace nutraceutical supplements. When it comes to ingesting inside-out beautifying products, consult the expert advice of a healthcare professional to determine your specific needs. Be informed – complement, don’t complicate. The limelight is focussed on premium supplements including collagen, fermented superfoods, organic antioxidant-rich wholefoods, and prescribed probiotics. Superior bioavailability is key. Our quest to create harmony and health from the inside out is not new. Beauty has never been skin deep. ■ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |53

AUSSIE MADE

Behind the Label One product is labelled ‘Be the goth who likes colour’.

Unlabelled is a social enterprise developed by skincare professionals, Anthony McDonough and Chris Glebatsas, which donates 100% of profits towards helping save the lives of young Australians. They sit down with Retail Beauty to talk all things diversity, family and why they’ve made it their mission to improve the mental health of Australian youth.

54| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

YOU USED TO HAVE A BUSINESS CALLED LIQUID SKINCARE (LQD) - WHAT HAPPENED? IT WAS EVERYWHERE AND THEN JUST GONE…

Anthony: It’s been a roller-coaster ride, but a really important experience that led us to develop our new social enterprise, called Unlabelled. But, to answer your question… Over the last 12 years, Chris and I have been very open on social media about our life, our love, and, of course, our skincare business, Lqd. For 10 years, Lqd was a significant part of our lives; we even became known as The Lqd Boys. The brand not only allowed us to live our lives out-and-proud, but also to be an example to young gay guys, showing that it’s possible to be out and successfully build a brand designed for gay men. We built Lqd into one of Australia’s most successful men’s skincare brands. It was sold globally through Bloomingdales, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, QVC, Sephora and David Jones to name a few. Unfortunately, in June 2018, Lqd spectacularly disappeared, and only recently have we been able to explain what led to this and how it has brought us to where we are today. As the business grew internationally, we took on an investor to help fund our growth, believing that this person shared our vision and plan for the business. Unfortunately, this didn’t turn out to be the case, and over

time our visions for the business grew apart and culminated in a two-year legal battle and court case, which we won. The court found in our favour that we had been oppressed as founders. This experience made us realise how important it is for people to talk about bullying and to understand that it doesn’t just happen to young people at school. It opened our eyes to the fact that bullying can occur in all walks of life, to adults at work, in social situations and in businesses. But let’s not talk too much more about the past, we’d prefer to now focus on the exciting future and what Unlabelled is all about. YOU DESCRIBE THE NEW BUSINESS, UNLABELLED, AS A ‘SOCIAL ENTERPRISE’. CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHAT THAT IS?

Anthony: Simply, a social enterprise business is one guided by a social purpose, existing to benefit the public, community and environment rather than just shareholders and owners, reinvesting most of their profits for this purpose. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MAKE THE SHIFT TO THIS BUSINESS MODEL?

Anthony: While going through our court case over Lqd, it was important for us to do

AUSSIE MADE

something positive with our time to balance out that negative experience. We started helping other small businesses on a pro-bono basis – after all, we had some background to draw on. We realised how much we’d learnt about building businesses but also how much we enjoyed helping people and how rewarding it was to be doing something that benefited others. We knew we wanted to start another business, but we didn’t want to create a Lqd 2.0. While Lqd was amazing for its time, times change. Lqd was a highly targeted, exclusive brand focused on the gay male market. We felt the time was right to create a more inclusive brand that also provided some social benefit. We decided we also wanted to become drivers of social change. YOUR TEENAGE DAUGHTER, GRACE, WAS PART OF THE INSPIRATION, IS THAT CORRECT?

Anthony: Yes, our 18-year-old daughter Grace’s generation are more aware of the world around them than any other previous generation. They have learnt to question where and how goods are made and the impact that can have on a global scale. They are much more aligned to anti-capitalism ideals, and are more social policy focused. When it came to creating the new business, we wanted to start something that Grace could be proud of but, at its heart, would be beneficial globally, as opposed to simply making money for shareholders.

The brand encourages young Australians to just ‘be you’.

Anthony: Grace’s generation are the drivers behind the many positive changes we are seeing in the world, so we wanted her opinion. When Chris and I were growing up, we didn’t know a gay person, or have any role models to even know what being gay was about. It was a label that was thrown around as an insult. But we discovered, from Grace, that four out of five of her peers generation didn’t identify as being straight and they didn’t classify themselves as gay either. They are still in the process of working out who they are, and labels don’t make that any easier. In fact, they can make it much harder. There’s an expectation that with a label you are like the ‘stereotype’ for that group, whereas you’re actually a unique individual, with your own thoughts, desires and beliefs. By encouraging kids to be themselves, they can realise they don’t need to fit into a box. It doesn’t matter what your gender, sexuality, race, religion or body type is, you shouldn’t be judged on that. While there are individuals on social media driving acceptance, we wanted to create a business whose mission was to help young people like Grace and her friends be comfortable just being themselves – regardless of who that is. When Grace was young, she was incredibly shy, which is hard to comprehend when you meet her today as a strong, confident young woman. One of the reasons for this confidence comes from Chris teaching her to never be embarrassed by what other people think. As a child, Chris would take Grace shopping and start dancing with her in the middle of the supermarket aisles – people would stop and stare, and Chris would simply say, ‘Just be you darling, don’t care what other people think’. That’s why our tag line is ‘Be unlabelled, be you’. WHO IN THE COMMUNITY WILL BENEFIT FROM THE UNLABELLED SOCIAL ENTERPRISE BUSINESS?

Anthony: Our company mission is to help reduce the incidence of youth suicide. You’re probably thinking this is

Aussie made

WHY WAS IT SO IMPORTANT TO GET HER PERSPECTIVE?

Chris Glebatsas (left) and Anthony McDonough (right) with their daughter Grace.

so far removed from selling skincare products, how are we going to make a difference and how can we do it? Let’s start with the fact that every year over 350 teens suicide in Australia and that for every one of our kids that we lose to suicide, there are thousands more who try. It’s a tragic number. Even one is a tragic number and it’s unconscionable to do nothing if one has the drive, the opportunity and the resources to help. There are a multitude of reasons why teens resort to self-harm including feeling a lack of self-worth, bad relationships, racial discrimination, gender identity, sexuality, depression or bullying and, while these are just some of the reasons, there are many, many more. At Unlabelled we believe that everyone has the right to be who they are. To be able to express themselves and be proud of their uniqueness

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AUSSIE MADE

A selection of the Unlabelled Hand Washes and Body Washes.

We realised how much we’d learnt about building businesses but also how much we enjoyed helping people and how rewarding it was to be doing something that benefited others. who may feel they’re more outcasts than part of the cool group. With time, this positivity may reduce bullying, those feelings of not fitting in, and the mental health issues that can lead to youth suicide. This may sound simplistic, but it is just the start of our initial five-year plan. Our expertise is in skincare so we will start by developing and selling skincare products, not surprisingly, called Unlabelled Skincare. We then re-invest 100 percent of our profits back into our community to help save young lives. Unlabelled is an Australian Charities and Not-forprofits Commission (ACNC) registered Health Promotion Charity with Deductible Gift Recipient (DGR) endorsement by the Australian Tax Office. This is the highest level of charity status in Australia, and accordingly the most stringently audited. It’s not an easy task, but every person that buys Unlabelled Skincare products will help us on our mission to make this happen. We believe the only thing that should be put in a box is our products and the branding itself will become a talking point. For example, what sort of reaction might be elicited when you unpack your new bottle of hand wash and see, ‘Be the goth who likes colour’, or ‘Be the punk that likes Beethoven’? We don’t profess to be experts in all of the reasons behind why young people suicide, but we are passionate about supporting those who are. This is why we commit 100 percent of our profits to resourcing those organisations who do such important work to help prevent youth suicide. WHY ARE ISSUES AROUND MENTAL HEALTH AND BULLYING SO CLOSE TO YOUR HEART?

Chris: As a child I was morbidly obese and teased for being gay; a really tough combination at school. I was bullied constantly. Every 56| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

lunch and recess period was terrifying, to the point where I struggled daily with mental health issues. On my first attempt at coming out as a teenager, my mum took me to our doctor who told me that I wasn’t gay, I just had to pray more. It wasn’t until recently, after going through the trauma of our legal battle, that I was diagnosed with PTSD. Most people associate PTSD with soldiers and wartime experiences, yet it is something that anyone can suffer from. Having struggled my whole life with depression and mental health issues and been embarrassed to talk about it, I am now ready to share my story, in the hope that it helps someone else realise that they aren’t alone, and it can get better once you get the right support. These are among the reasons we created Unlabelled; so that we can help change the narrative. We want young people to feel proud of who they are regardless of how other people try to label them. That’s why we are trying to change how young people see themselves and the world they live in. WHAT MAKES THE UNLABELLED PRODUCTS UNIQUE?

Anthony: Developing social enterprise brands is about more than just creating great products – we take the full impact of production into account. Our bottles are made from 100 percent recycled plastic, removing plastic waste from our oceans and waterways. We’ve developed completely new formulations that are free from nasty chemicals including sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), silicones, mineral oils, animal derivatives and harsh detergents. Using natural ingredients our products are vegan friendly and not tested on animals. BEING ABLE TO LAUNCH THE RANGE IN CHEMIST WAREHOUSE IS QUITE AN ACHIEVEMENT. HOW DID THAT COME ABOUT?

Aussie made

and so understand that they don’t need to conform to a label or fit into a stereotype. That’s why we are trying to change how young people see themselves, and the world around them. Unlabelled will be visible through advertising and active on multiple social platforms to celebrate the individual in us all and provide a positive outlook on life for those

Chris: We wanted to work with a large, national, mass retailer who is in touch with our primary buyer – mums with teenage kids. When we first presented the concept of Unlabelled to Chemist Warehouse they immediately loved it and embraced the idea of a new social enterprise. We’re working closely with them to ensure that Unlabelled’s products will deliver exactly what the Chemist Warehouse customer is looking for in terms of superior quality, value and range. ■

The unlabelled product range includes a range of hand and body washes and body bars. A select range is available in-store at Chemist Warehouse or the whole range is available online through Chemist Warehouse and at www.unlabelled.org.au.

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Beauty retailers – counter managers, buyers, management and marketing Beauty advisors – pharmacy, department store, boutique and online Beauty and health brands – owners, marketers, PR and sales Beauty media – beauty editors, journalists, bloggers and influencers

Retail Beauty is an essential tool for brands and retailers to educate, inspire and support their sales force – and ultimately sell more products. Retail Beauty is the go-to for the wider beauty industry to stay on top of global and local trends, news and launches. We communicate directly and daily to key industry professionals and decision makers.

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Reach our quality audience of more than 50,000 through bespoke advertising and content solutions. Contact Cathryn Tout on +61 416 350 742 or ctout@intermedia.com.au

FEATURE

The Experiential

Shopping Guru Tashi Jade Bellby sitsXxxx down with Judy Deuchar, xxxxxxx General Manager of TVSN, to find out firsthand what it takes to ‘make or break’ a beauty brand on a television shopping network.

Judy Deuchar

tarting in jewellery retail and buying for the Foschini group, Judy Deuchar has been in the business of “experiential shopping” for at least 25 years. Judy worked for QVC (Quality, Value, Convenience) in the UK from 1997 until 2011. QVC is an American free-to-air television network, and flagship shopping channel specialising in televised home shopping, owned by Qurate Retail Group, which is available in the US and UK and is the third largest retailer in the world after Amazon and Walmart. Judy was then headhunted by TVSN and has been working with TVSN since 2014. Wellknown and respected in the beauty industry worldwide, Judy has even been a judge at the illustrious Cosmoprof Awards. TVSN has one of the highest percentages of returning customers amongst its competitors, so you know Judy is definitely an expert in picking what sells! Formerly family-owned, TVSN has, of April 1, 2022 taken on a majority Private Equity investor, CHAMP (or CVP). Incidentally, I helped design and rollout CHAMP’s Investment Fund Structure into Australia (and the Southeast Asian area) when I was still working as a lawyer, years ago. But I’ll save my knowledge on private/venture capital investment in beauty for another article. With the rise of “influencer marketing” and social medial platforms like YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok, brands are beginning to see the power of video marketing a.k.a. “V Commerce”. People showing you what a product looks like and how it performs. TVSN has been at the forefront of this from the get-go in Australia (TVSN even has an app that you can download and stream videos from). What makes TVSN stand out from the Instagrammers, Youtubers and TikTokers is that it is filmed in “real time” and 58| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

there is NO TIME for edits and/or filters! What you see is really what you get on TVSN. I’ve been there to witness this and you can be sure with TVSN, you are getting a 100% true raw unfiltered experience. One of TVSN’s famous tagline is “Where Beauty Begins”. This could not be truer. TVSN has incubated several brands that are now famous worldwide. One standout example is Silk Oil of Morocco (SOFM). SOFM started when the founder (Shirley Piscina?), who was then selling wigs on TVSN, was asked by a TVSN team member if she could create a line of haircare using Argan Oil. This gave birth to SOFM’s first product, a skin and hair treatment using the best Argan Oil available. SOFM has now grown immensely and even has its own makeup, homeware and accessories line. This neatly segues into the next burning question I had for Judy. “How does TVSN choose what products to sell?”. TVSN has a dedicated beauty buyer, but final approval must come from Judy first before it gets on to TVSN. She is the expert in knowing what sells and what doesn’t. With online shopping, the customers’ retail experience has changed significantly. There is so much that is easily available to

We don’t carry every product from each brand but carefully selected products that we know will fit our customers’ profiles.

FEATURE JUDY ’S TOP IP: T BEAUTY

all pot of ave a sm Always h ith you. It works w eye cream at as a cup of re g s a just ier too) nd health coffee (a e on whenever m to pat so like a pick you feel me up.

JUDY’S FAVOURITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS Doll10 lipsticks Skinn Scientific Colour Power Perfect Foundation + Concealer Algenist GENIUS Liquid Collagen Carla Oates Glow Inner Beauty Powder Oil of Morocco Argan Heroes; Lancer Skincare The Method: Cleanse and Polish. Hear more from Judy on the Beauty Business Podcast. Images provided by TVSN.

customers now with just a click of a button and customers can be easily overwhelmed, Judy explained. “With online shopping, there is a push and pull aspect,” she said. “Female customers want to be entertained as well instead of just looking for the product with V Commerce - we need to serve it up in an interesting way. TVSN has a 98% female customer base.” Trust is the number one priority for TVSN. “The first thing we look for is whether the brand (no matter how big or small) has an authentic story and a reason for being,” Judy said. “It might look pretty on the shelf but does it work? What is the evidence behind its claims? This is particularly important from a legal aspect as to what we can say on our shows. “We have a highly curated collection for our customers. We don’t carry every product from each brand but carefully selected

products that we know will fit our customers’ profiles. It gets overwhelming for customers if there are five cleansers from one brand. In our beauty section we go by what I call a “Beauty Ladder”. This Beauty Ladder has two sides, a “science-based” line and a “natural-based” line. “We then look at the price point as we cater to a variety of customers with different price points. Then, the question is ‘Does it fit within TVSN’s mix of products?’ We don’t want to cannibalise another brand that might have a very similar product. Having two or more products that do the same thing is confusing for our customers. It roughly takes 2-3 months for a brand to be stocked, based on the amount of due diligence and legals involved.” ■ TVSN is always looking for new brands to join their TVSN family. For new brands wanting to be stocked by TVSN, you can email vendor.enquiries@tvsn.com.au. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |59

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edit

The coolest winter makeup products to stock this season.

Photos Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

The makeup

Dr Naomi ApocaLips - www.drnaomi.com SugarBaby Out Glowing Natural Glow Face & Decolletage Self Tan Water – www.sugarbabybeauty.com.au 1000Hour Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum Mist – www.1000hour.com.au Basics by B Face Palette 3.0 x Claudia Miranda – www.basicsbyb.com.au Revlon ColorStay Matte Lite Crayon Lifted – www.revlonanz.com Max Factor Facefinity Highlighter Powder Golden Hour – www.priceline.com.au Ulta3 Luminous Filter Nourishing Foundation Vanilla – www.ulta3.com.au Ere Perez Aloe Gel Lash & Brow Mascara – www.ereperez.com Napoleon Perdis Hybrid Veil Bronze Toasty – www.napoleonperdis.com RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |61

FEATURE

5 MINUTES WITH...

Nicole Trunfio Since 2017, Australian supermodel Nicole Trunfio has been living on a horse ranch near Austin, Texas with her blues musician husband Gary Clark Jr, and their three children. The stunning 36-year-old touched down in Sydney recently where she was unveiled as the global brand ambassador for Inika Organic, Total Beauty Network’s premium brand. By Michelle Ruzzene

WHY DID INIKA ORGANIC RESONATE WITH YOU? Our core values are very much alike - pure intentions and pure purpose. I have always wanted to align myself with a beauty brand but have never been ready or the brand simply hasn’t matched my values. With Inika Organic, working with them just felt right. It was almost primal. I remember the first time I tried the products, it had been a long day and our team was having a meeting. I get sent a lot of PR mail but I knew this one was coming and had been looking forward to it. I was unboxing the products and actually had to interrupt the meeting just to take it all in. I was just so taken by them. It was almost a bit of a sensory immersion from the beautiful fragrances from the natural botanicals they use in the range, which is equally nostalgic to me as it reminds me of home. Then, learning about their certifications, and specifically their plastic neutrality status it was just a no brainer. And the products actually work!

WHAT RESPONSIBILITIES DOES BEING A BRAND AMBASSADOR ENTAIL? Being an ambassador is easy when it’s a brand you truly, fully believe in. It doesn’t ever feel like “work” when you’re doing something you love and I really look forward to the events, content shoots and of course the opportunity to communicate their messaging - they are such leaders 62| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

in the natural beauty space and I’m so proud to share their vision and values which align with my own.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD BRAND AMBASSADOR? Like I said before, it should be an easy job if you’re an ambassador for a brand you completely align with. But a GREAT ambassador understands the inherent nature of the partnership and lives it.

WHICH IS THE MORE DIFFICULT CAREER PATH – MODEL OR BUSINESS WOMAN? WHY? Owning your own business is such a rewarding and enjoyable venture, but it really is a full time job in itself. Throughout my career as a model, I have gained so much experience and knowledge of the industry and find that although the job itself is never easy, it’s manageable with a family. I am so incredibly proud of creating my three businesses Bumpsuit, Erth Jewelry and Erth Swim, and am really grateful that we have created a great community of

supporters. Although it is not difficult, it is definitely a much more demanding job. My work day starts at 9am once the kids are at school and usually wraps up around midnight, but I wouldn’t trade it for the world! I’m so incredibly lucky to have built these businesses, maintain a modelling career, care for my wonderful family and now be an ambassador for Inika Organic.

WHAT HAS BEEN THE MOST VALUABLE LEARNING IN YOUR CAREER? My kids and building three businesses from the ground up, definitely. My children are full of amazing, life-changing ideas, and it’s eye-opening to see how they view the world and has totally changed my perspective. Zion, Gia and Ella have taught me so much in such a short time. My son, Zion, never wanted to eat meat because he never wanted to kill an animal, which I find beautiful. He taught me that what we consume has an impact on the environment, and I love that he came to us with this important issue knowing we would back him 100%. His inquisitive mind influences how I make business decisions and why each of my businesses are earth-led, and of course lends itself to my partnership with Inika. Being a business owner is such an enjoyable, creative job. I think I underestimated the amount of effort that goes into creating a business - but loved the journey so much that I have done it three times!

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRAND MAKERS / CREATORS? My honest advice is do what you love and be involved with something you’re passionate about. Authenticity Is key. So long as you 100% love your ideas, and believe that you can do something, you will.

AS A MOTHER OF THREE, HOW DO YOU MAINTAIN A WORK LIFE BALANCE? It’s definitely no secret that work life balance is not easy! But, I really try to make time for my kids. I have such a great and supportive team around me to help where needed so I’m not bogged down, which really helps me breathe a sigh of relief during those crazy busy weeks. I really value self care and making sure I am the best version of myself for my family, friends and those around me. Some of those things are working out, spending time in our infrared sauna (which helps me unwind) cooking with the produce from our ranch and having a glass of red!

WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR GREATEST SUCCESS? As cliche as it may sound, my greatest joy and accomplishment are my children, Zion, Gia and Ella. My kids are the most amazing people and always have such amazing things to teach me. They really have shaped who I am today. In my career, my greatest success is balancing all of my projects, from Inika Organic ambassador to owning three businesses. It’s amazing that I get to do all the things I love while enjoying the precious gift I have with my husband and our children.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP BEAUTY TIPS? One of my biggest tips for when I’m feeling dehydrated or like I need some extra glow is using Inika’s Liquid Glow Illuminisor and mixing it with the BB cream for an extra dewy and fresh daytime look. I also use this combo in place of highlighter some days! I just dab it on my brow bone, cheeks and cupids bow for such a pretty result. In my beauty bag at the moment are lots of products that are 2-in-1 - or that I’ve made so this way - as I am on the go. The Lip and Cheek Tint is my favourite for this and I use it on as a lip colour, blusher and also an eyeshadow! ■

MY CURRENT FAVOURITES: SKIN • Phyto-Active Micellar Rosewater the first thing I do in my routine is to cleanse and remove impurities. I love this one as it’s alcohol free, super gentle on my skin and can remove just about anything - even a full face of makeup. • Phyto-Active Botanical Face Oil - love this to restore goodness to my skin and extra hydration. It sits underneath makeup beautifully too! • Phytofuse Renew Maca Root Rich Day Cream - I bring this right down my neck and it’s the last step in my routine. Super restorative!

MAKEUP • Lip & Cheek Cream which I also use as a lipstick coupled with a lip liner. Sometimes even on my eyes as a shadow. • Limited Edition Liquid Glow Illuminisor and BB cream combo as foundation or a highlighter. • Baked Mineral Bronzer for evening looks which I softly apply below the cheek bones and to the forehead and jawline for a sunkissed look.

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FEATURE

Beauty

breakthrough by first XxxxMecca xxxxxxx Jo Horgan opened her store opened in South Yarra in 1997 with just seven brands. Fast forward to today, and there are almost 5,000 Mecca team members across more than 100 retail stores throughout Australia and New Zealand.

Retail Beauty asked the staff at Mecca: “How do you best assist customers to find the right beauty products for them?” Here are some seriously interesting insights to help you nail your customer’s beauty brief.

What can you learn about your customers’ needs, likes and dislikes, and what truly brings them joy?

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FEATURE

CALI DOYLE HOST

CATH TEMPLER

SKIN LAB ZONE MANAGER

“Beauty products play so many roles in our lives, they act as confidence boosters, mood enhancers and selfcare rituals! Accordingly, I love to offer customers a full sensorial experience of the product - how it feels on their skin, the texture, the finish, the scent, so they can really gauge how it would fit in their existing routine. Beauty products are a commitment; I can offer the science and recommendations for individual preferences, but ultimately our customers know themselves best. It’s my goal to empower them with the knowledge and confidence in the product prior to purchase so they know they are committing to their holy grail!”

“Listen to your customer…then open up the conversation by asking the right questions to learn more. What can you learn about your customers’ needs, likes and dislikes, and what truly brings them joy? Is it having the latest trend, or having a quick and simple routine to follow? With this information and your sound knowledge of the products available, you can recommend a few choices for your customer to choose from.”

MYRSINI ARSENI

SHANNON KEY

“I make it top priority to take the time to understand what my customer is trying to achieve and where they’re at right now. Once we have a goal in mind and I have all the information that I need about their skin, their current routine and their needs I can feel confident making my recommendations on what would be the right products for them.”

“I find that building rapport with the customer and asking the right questions to find out what their purpose and needs allows them feel comfortable and at ease. This then allows me to find those gems of information to find the perfect product for them.”

TRACY TANG

HANNAH MCCLYMONT

SKIN SPECIALIST

FRAGRANCE SPECIALIST “I love discovering why our customers have stepped through our Mecca doors. The moment where I’ve peeled back the layers by asking the why’s I end up finding pockets of information about the person in front of me. Whether it’s achieving a flawless base, hydrated skin or even if they’re looking for their perfect fragrance to wear on their wedding day there can be a lot to consider. I’d say keeping an open mind, staying curious, actively listening and approaching all conversations genuinely has helped me the most.”

BEAUTY LAB ZONE MANAGER

STORE MANAGER

“Identifying a customer’s confidence with the beauty world plays a huge part in how I speak about my product recommendations. Breaking down the barriers between what looks intimidating to someone new beauty, vs the solution that they are seeking, really comes down to quickly building trust with the person in front of me, demonstrating to them that I’m listening, and speaking about product in a language they will understand.”

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Have you met... HAYLEY DUTTON

Makeup Director, Rimmel London and Covergirl

With a background in business development, account management and social media, Hayley Dutton was destined for a corporate career. However, her passion for makeup was too strong to ignore. The Makeup Director for Rimmel London and Covergirl shares with Michelle Ruzzene her incredible journey and why charity work is so crucial to her job satisfaction. transformation from sitting in the chair with the makeup artist. I immediately thought ‘Yep, this is what I need to be doing’ and the next day I had signed up for my first makeup course. WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR SKILLS?

I did a 12-week Napoleon Perdis course to see if applying makeup on other people was going to be the same as doing it on myself. I had always been the girl at school that rocked a winged liner on a night out - I guess looking back now that is quite funny. From there I enrolled myself into full time course with Cameron Jane Makeup Academy where we really delved into every aspect of makeup and hair - and I never looked back. HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP?

Well to be honest, I feel like it was always written in the stars! From a young age I was always quite obsessed with all things beauty, makeup and fashion. I would love waiting for the release of my favourite monthly magazines where I would make reference boards from hair makeup and outfits that I loved. I was very into self-care and skin. When I was about 12, I had really bad skin and I recall finding a tinted Phisohex cream, which instructed me to place the product over affected areas. As I applied it, I could see my skin transform. From that moment onwards, that Phisohex cream was used as a foundation. Seeing my face transform from pimply to flawless, really was the first time I realised how powerful makeup can be from a self-confidence perspective. However, the main reason I ended up pursuing makeup was because my mum was diagnosed with breast cancer. I remember her telling me how much of a positive impact the Look Good Feel Better program was, and from that moment onwards, I thought if I could make someone else going through cancer feel the way my mum did, it would be special. I recall working in advertising on a shoot for Vanessa Amorosi’s album cover and walking onto the winnebago, where the makeup artist and Vanessa were creating her looks. There was just this incredible energy between them, which stemmed from Vanessa’s 66| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE?

Funny question - to answer that right now, I am currently in Perth and it is 4am. I am in a hotel room looking out at the skyline typing away. I was presenting a masterclass for my beautiful friends over at Coty and Max Factor and on my way home our flight got cancelled. I was in the airport for six hours and then made an emergency hotel booking so I could get some shut eye before the next flight was due out that they scheduled us out on. So, to answer that question, every day is just as different and exciting as the next! I could be holding a makeup masterclass for Rimmel, Covergirl, MaxFactor, Sally Hansen or Clairol around Australia, I could be on an editorial or corporate photoshoot, managing an event like Falls Festival or Splendour in the Grass. I could also be heading up a team at Fashion Week, writing makeup trends and forecasting or I could be running my children to school drop-offs in a top knot and gym gear – let’s just say there’s never a dull moment! HOW DID YOU START WORKING FOR COTY?

I was working in advertising at the time and had the pleasure of managing the Rimmel account. I had also simultaneously been pursuing my makeup career, and the two collided! The Marketing Manager at the time, who I absolutely adored, reached out and said

INFLUENCER

they had the perfect role for me. They were after someone with my passion and energy for makeup to educate and represent the brand, and so from 2012, I was working with Rimmel. I would have to say that this was one of the most exciting times in my life. I pursued a completely new career, doing a role that was so dynamic and different, where I was able to share my passion and energy in different ways. I was fortunate to collaborate with a team who were beyond amazing and so very grateful to have you as part of their team. This then led to representing many of the Coty brands to this day - I am so incredibly grateful for the amazing team over at Coty and their constant trust in me to share their brands with the world.

Always find a way where your skillset can help others. MOST REWARDING PART OF THE JOB?

One of the most rewarding parts of my job is the opportunities I have to give back to the communities that I hold close to my heart. Coty has been instrumental in my relationship with Dress For Success - I am the Makeup and Hair Ambassador for the notfor-profit, volunteer powered organisation. In this role I can hold workshops educating those wanting to get back into the workforce around makeup and hair for confidence and nail that interview. For me, these sessions go far beyond sharing tips and tricks about hair and makeup, they are an opportunity for me to remind people of how wonderful they are and to instill the confidence to use makeup as a superpower. They are a place where I learn so much about myself and others, and how the smallest of positive reinforcement can make the biggest difference to a person who may be going through a really challenging time in their life. I have really enjoyed working with Look Good Feel Better and also STARRTS (NSW Service for the Treatment and Rehabilitation of Torture and Trauma Survivors), an organisation that works with women and children refugees who have endured trauma. These are places where you can share energy and positivity. Obviously, I have had the most amazing experiences through my career and the whole reason I am a makeup artist is due to its ability to completely transform a person and allow them to feel self-confident and beautiful. There are many rewarding parts to my job including the amazing people I meet every single day, however it’s the work around helping others that really gives me all the warm and fuzzies.

HAYLEY’S TOP 5 MAKEUP TIPS: 1.

Great skin means great makeup - invest and look after you skin.

Learn to love cream products, super easy to use and will always give you the most natural finish.

Always use your lipstick as your blush - those who know me know I live by this.

There are no rules, find what you love and work it. There is no other you, so don’t be afraid to make that stamp.

Smile always darlings, no makeup can ever make you look as good as you do when you are happy and smiling.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN BEAUTY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?

This is a great question. I have worked in finance and advertising and then transitioned into makeup from there. When I did my business degree I really loved marketing, law and accounting. Who knows, I mean I could have gone in any direction… YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

Definitely Wonder Woman. She is a strong woman, both physically and mentally, who is compassionate, caring, opinionated, competitive and outgoing who is also incredibly beautiful. A woman who is never afraid to battle if she needs to. But a woman whose priority is to protect others! Let’s be real, Wonder Woman should always be seen with a power red lip. YOUR ADVICE TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Always find a way where your skill-set can help others. Make yourself an asset to any team, job or organisation - as a makeup artist our role goes far beyond applying makeup - we wear many more hats! Embrace that. YOUR GO-TO WINTER BEAUTY LOOK?

As soon as the weather cools down I am a sucker for a bright or deep lip pairs with gorgeous glossy skin. So, it’s all about great skin and lip care around these months. You just can’t beat beautiful glossy skin paired with a bold lip in winter – divine. ONE PRODUCT YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT?

That’s an absolute no brainer, it’s a radiant foundation for me. I simply cannot live life without great foundation. That is my absolute ‘stuck on a desert island’ product. Great skin is everything to me a woman and to me as a makeup artist, skin is my obsession, if the skin looks great, the rest of the makeup shines! ■ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |67

INFLUENCER

What is Complexion

Perfection?

We are all after that perfect complexion, the one that looks smooth, radiant and realistic and not covered up with excessive makeup, but can we get it? By Michael Brown

f course we can. We just need to be patient (if skin issues are visible), take our time and have the knowledge of what products to use to prep for different skin types and textures. As a celebrity makeup artist, skin prep is on the daily for me. Recognising and understanding what each skin type and texture may need is now the norm, but it took a lot of trial and errors over the years for me to get it right every time. We are so lucky in today’s world to have a complete wardrobe of complexion products and primers to assist in making the skin look as realistic as possible. Spend the time to prime.

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INFLUENCER Don’t think layering on foundation on will fix the aesthetic of the skin, because it won’t. The power of skin prep is real and such an important part of any makeup look.

SKINCARE MAINTENANCE VS SKINCARE ACTIVES We should all know by now how important skincare is to improve skin texture and tone, especially for makeup wearers. But no matter how basic your routine is, something is better than nothing. A basic routine for general skincare maintenance should include daily cleansing, adding moisture and SPF for protection, with a weekly scrub to assist in skin renewal. This is enough of a routine for some, especially when you’re younger. But as we start to age, and if makeup is starting to look ‘obvious’, you may want to add in some extra products and actives to really get the job done. Makeup should look like a second skin and enhance a person’s features, but without appearing too noticeable. Using actives is where we can start getting real results. Vitamin C is one ingredient that works so well for overall skin tone brightness, clarity and anti-oxidant protection. Men and women can benefit from this anti-fatigue ingredient and the overall upgrade of our skin tone, so for me, this is great during day. Apply before makeup for that extra radiance. Another top ingredient is retinol. Unlike vitamin C, which works on skin tone, this works on skin texture, giving a smoother appearance. It is perfect for improving textured skin and lines and wrinkles. Used at night, it’s best to start slowly, every other night or even every third night to be safe. Find one that isn’t too drying, as this will affect your overall skin glow. Combatting both skin texture and tone is key in skincare for anyone wanting more results than just basic skin maintenance. Apart from the ever-so-popular hyaluronic acid – a high intensity hydrating ingredient – which is pretty much in everything these days, including makeup products, there is another star ingredient - niacinamide. Often mixed in with other key ingredients, niacinamide is great for all skin types as it helps protect and repair the skin’s barrier. It is amazing to use after treatments, on sensitive skin, or if you’ve used harsh products and are trying to calm the skin down. It’s also great for oily skin as it can help control shine and add a smoothing element.

The above actives can be packaged separately or combined with other ingredients as an all rounder, it all depends on your key focuses and skin type. Do you want to focus on more skin tone? Or texture? Or perhaps both! The more in tune you are with what the skin may need, the better results your makeup will have when it’s applied over the top of these base products and ingredients.

When using any skincare, especially actives with claims attached to them, you need to use for at least four weeks to see visible results. SKINCARE PRIMING VS MAKEUP PRIMERS When using any skincare, especially actives with claims attached to them, you need to use for at least four weeks to see visible results. Our skin cell turnover cycle is every 28 days and slows as we get older, hence why we use exfoliation products to assist in the process. My above recommendations will help and enhance your skin tone and texture, but it takes time to see results. No two natural cell turnover time periods are exactly the same. So, skincare does prime our skin before makeup, but more so in a moisture sense on a daily basis. Remember, true results for actives can take up to four weeks or more. Makeup primers, on the other hand, are very instant. They immediately hydrate the skin. Textured skin can look matte and refined, while skin tone can automatically look more radiant and fresh. Makeup primers are your skincare routine’s assistant, allowing makeup to sit better, look fresher and last longer. We are also seeing more and more skin ingredients infused into makeup primers, especially things such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, but even vitamin C and mild AHAs, which help smooth skin texture. The most common new term for primers is the word ‘blur’ and yes, they

work! I now use one everyday, as it’s almost like using a smoothing filter over your face, but way more realistic being in real life and not looking at skin through a device. Blue primers are great for anyone with dry/dehydrated skin as they are more hydrating and diffuse imperfections like fine lines, wrinkles and pores. A mattifying blur primer can do all of the above, but can have more of an impact on textured skin like pores and little bumps. It helps to achieve a mattifying, smoother finish, which preps the skin for the foundation to perfectly sit on the face. You can easily then add colour to even out the skin tone. Generally, the more oily and shine focused you are, the skin’s texture and pores are also usually an issue. Always opt for a matte primer to smooth out these issues, and do not add too much glow and light reflection, which can enhance these concerns. If skin tone is a concern, go for an uplifting, hydrating primer that can add glow, but still look overall smooth in areas where lines and wrinkles are visible. It’s the perfect pre-foundation canvas. And to close, if you are ever working on a client that has specifically asked for a particular type or brand of foundation, it’s important to check out what they are using under their makeup to help assist and support the skin. No foundation can do its job without the above knowledge on skincare and skin prep. Realistic skin is in, so prep accordingly! ■

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |69

INFLUENCER

Understanding the new TGA Code and what it means for brands and social media influencers The Australian Influencer Marketing Council (AiMCO) responds to confusion and misinformation surrounding the updated TGA code

he Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) Social Media Advertising Guide, which was released in January, has been picked up in the media with various interpretations creating confusion for influencers, marketers and their agencies. The guide pertains to the implementation of the new Therapeutic Goods Advertising Code which was released in early December and came into effect on January 1, 2022. Recent media reports have incorrectly indicated that: ‘influencers won’t be paid for posts advertising: skincare, sunscreens, protein powders, vitamins, supplements, skincare for acne, medicines and skin lightening products.’ However, the updated TGA does not ban promotion of these items by influencers, rather this brings the rules for influencers in line with all advertising for therapeutic goods; influencers fall under the same long standing TGA requirements as other advertising formats. The key consideration with regard to application of the code hinges on the interpretation of endorsement versus testimonials, as the latter are banned and have always been for therapeutic goods under the TGA Code. Advertisers have until 30 June 2022 to transition from the current Code to the 2021 Code. During this 6-month transition period advertisers may apply either the current Code or the 2021 Code. However, the code requires all testimonials that are in breach to be taken down by July 1, 2022. The key issue is that brands and influencers need to pay attention to personal testimonials that make therapeutic claims. The issue of endorsements versus testimonials is covered on the TGA website with regard to the 2018 Code, so a key factor for interpretation of 70| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

the new code will be how this distinction applies to the new code. AiMCO will connect with the TGA to gain clarification on this in order to advise members and the industry. Set out below is some of the guidance provided by the TGA in their Social Media Advertising Guide:

TIPS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCERS If you are an influencer who is involved with a therapeutic goods company (for example, you have been paid or given a product by the company to promote their goods), you should consider the following tips. • Any comments you make about your personal experience with therapeutic goods amounts to a testimonial. Testimonials are not permitted by those involved in the production, sale, supply, or marketing of the goods. This includes influencers who are engaged by a therapeutic goods company to promote the goods. • Understand what the approved purpose of the good is and do not advertise the good for a purpose other than that, even if your experience with the good is otherwise. For more information about the intended purpose of a therapeutic good, see the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods. • Seek advice from a lawyer or regulatory affairs consultant if you are unsure about your obligations in relation to social media advertising of therapeutic goods. • For more information about advertising therapeutic goods, visit the TGA Advertising Hub. ■ For further information contact AiMCO at www.aimco.org.au or info@aimco.org.au

FEATURE

Shifting Sands In Retail Beauty Post Pandemic The pandemic has led to seismic shifts within the Australian beauty industry, changing the way beauty brands and retailers engage with their customers. By Liz Webster, Partner Management Consulting at Grant Thornton Australia

ith so much of Australia in lockdowns and working from home over the last two years, there just hasn’t been the need to be “glammed up” and the makeup category suffered significant declines as a result. Leading into 2020, we had just come off a lacklustre 2019, where innovation from both big brands and indie brands was scarce. We had already ridden the brow, cat eye and winged eye phases, so what was next? For big global brands with many axes, they were able to pivot and focus on skincare. We didn’t need makeup, after all, we weren’t really going anywhere, but we still wanted our skin to look amazing and we spent time and money to ensure that all that mask wearing wasn’t going to affect us. The wave that skincare has ridden in the last two years has been unprecedented. From big brands to indie to organic and cosmeceuticals, so many brands have added ancillary products to their ranges; oils, masks, and face rollers to name a few. As customers we’ve lapped these extras up and we’ve all added extra steps to our skincare routines. On a trip to South Korea in 2011, our male host was talking about a skincare routine that included 12 steps. My colleague and I were trying to get to 8 and that included brushing our teeth and hair before bed! I can now easily get to 8 and depending on what night of the week it is, there’s now 10 steps to my bedtime skin routine. Brands will need to continue to innovate to ensure they do not lose the market share gains they’ve made in this beauty category. As we enter the new world post Covid-19, the beauty retail landscape has shifted. The dominance of the beauty floor in department stores was waning before the

pandemic, but their online sites, once sleeping giants, have woken up and woken up big! For example, Elizabeth King (Retail Beauty contributor) reported in September 2021 that Myer’s e-commerce beauty business was a standout in the FY21 results, increasing by a whopping 218% over the full year.

As we enter the new world post Covid-19, the beauty retail landscape has shifted. The dominance of the beauty floor in department stores was waning before the pandemic, but their online sites, once sleeping giants, have woken up and woken up big! David Jones has also reported that its overall online sales have risen 44% per cent since Boxing Day, now making up nearly a third of total sales The rise of specialty beauty retail continues and the undisputed leader in Australia is Mecca, with over 100 stores in both Australia and New Zealand. When the new Mecca flagship opens in Melbourne late next year, it’s touted to be the biggest beauty retail store in the southern hemisphere. With a brand offering and experience that is unrivalled

both in store and online, this juggernaut will continue to rise. As customers head back into stores, it’s just not about the touch, feel and smell any longer, that’s just a standard expectation. It’s about services that enhance the experience; blow dry bars, injectable clinics, beauty therapy and classes. Customers have been empowered through YouTube and influencer’s ‘how to’ videos and they now want that service experience in real life. Retailers that offer both product and services are creating are stronger connection, beyond just selling a lipstick. There is no doubt that social media has dominated the beauty space. Beauty brands have developed partnerships with many big influencers, but this becomes less impactful when every few weeks they’re ‘selling’ something different. The rise in the nano-influencer is significant. They’re everyday people whose authenticity and ‘normalness’ hits a cord with those who follow them. They’re seen to be more genuine, and many brands and retailers are moving towards these nano influencers, who typically have less than 10,000 followers, rather than the influencer with hundreds of thousands. They’re like you and me and that makes them real. Not only has the type of influencer changed, but also where they’re posting. The old-world channels were Facebook, Instagram and YouTube, but now influencers are on Snapchat, TikTok and Tumblr and who knows where else in the next couple of years. So, whilst the days of walking into a department store to buy your favourite beauty product will continue and the experience will evolve, customers are now spoilt for choice in almost every way and how much fun is that! ■ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |71

BUYERS LIST HANNAH JACKSON Head of Buying Bondi Sands Glo Matte One Day Tan - This is a product I can’t live without, I wear it every day without fail. As a busy working mum, it’s great for a last minute tan while I am running out the door with the kids each day. It gives my body a flawless sun kissed glow, without leaving streaks or blotches and never transfers onto my clothes. Designer Brands Pore Minimising Primer - My go to primer! The DB Pore Minimising Primer leaves my skin feeling unbelievably silky and helps prep my skin by reducing pores and fine lines, making my foundation slide on effortlessly and feel velvety smooth. This primer keeps my foundation intact all day, without my skin feeling weighed down. Like other products in the Designer Brands range it is 100 per cent certified vegan and cruelty free. Ardell Natural Demi Lash 120 Black - I am a huge advocate for fake lashes – I wear them every day. The Ardell Natural Demi Lashes are my favourite as, not only are they easy to apply, but they are the perfect mix of length and flutter, whilst still looking natural. Aside from the impact on the look fake lashes create, they can also be a great alternative to mascara if you don’t like using it or have allergies.

THE DIRECT CHEMIST OUTLET BEAUTY BUYERS

Secret Product Picks CHLOE KENDRICK Fragrance Category Buyer Dolce by Dolce & Gabbana – Dolce is my favourite fragrance from the D&G range. It is a fresh fragrance with a hint of floral. I like that it is fresh, subtle and not overpowering like other floral fragrances. It is my favourite fragrance when I want to feel fresh, energised and elegant. Perfect for people mid-twenties and onwards. Marc Jacobs Daisy Love – This is a light, fun, fruity fragrance that lasts all day. If you are trying this fragrance, thinking it will be like the original Daisy you may be pleasantly surprised at the difference. It is sweeter and less floral than the original. All Marc Jacobs fragrances are beautifully packaged which always make it a perfect gift and great for any age. Viva La Juicy by Juicy Couture – This is a classic perfume. It is a sweet and fruity fragrance. I’ve been wearing this on and off since I was a teenager, and I’m now in my thirties. I always try to change up my collection. Although I have new favourites, it can never replace my ‘go-to’. It is my favourite everyday fragrance and has a familiarity to it that keeps bringing me back to it. I will always have a small bottle of this in my car as well, for when I’m on the go.

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BUYERS LIST CAS SOUTHCOTT Beauty Category Buyer L’Oréal Lash Paradise Mascara Black - I love this mascara! L’Oréal Lash Paradise gives you instant volume lashes, that you can build for a more glam look, or effortlessly sweep on the eyelash for an everyday look. The brush is ever so soft, and easily blends in with strip lashes, doesn’t smudge, and works better than some prestige brands I have tried in the past. Revlon Colorstay Makeup Foundation - Revlon Colorstay Foundation is my old faithful foundation that I have used for years, between work, home, and beyond, this foundation is an absolute dream, and lasts for as long as I need it to, which I need in-between a busy family/ work life. Glides on easy, with a full coverage, without feeling like it is heavy on your face. Skin Republic Fast Fix 5 Minute Under Eye Patch - This product was Love at first try! The perfect Fast Fix in the morning for tired eyes, and so easy to use. The eye mask smooths, hydrates, and tones down those dark circles on tired eyes, giving you that refreshed and ready for the day look and feel. A powernap for your eyes that is a perfect complement to the usual morning routine (Especially after a night out). Makes you look refreshed, even if you don’t feel it.

The first Direct Chemist Outlet was opened in Werribee, Victoria in 2006. Today, there are almost 90 stores Australia wide. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the ultimate influencers – the Direct Chemist Outlet Beauty Buyers - to discover what products need to be on your radar.

RHIANNA DAVIS Head of Operations La Roche Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ - I use this product every single day! It sits really nicely on the skin and doesn’t leave any greasy residue. It’s perfect to wear on its own or under makeup for added sun protection with SPF50+. Designer Brands Beyond Amplifying Curling Volumising Mascara - This mascara is my ride-or-die product! It glides on really nicely, leaving lashes thick and long and doesn’t clump. It has a tubing texture that is waterresistant but also washes off nicely. No more panda eyes. Le Tan Application Mitt - This is my go-to tanning mitt, it makes selftanning foolproof! Aside from all the usual mitt benefits - protecting your hands, improving application etc, this mitt goes above and beyond. It is thick and has a plush feeling which is pleasant as you apply. It also acts to buff the product well to give a flawless finish.

www.directchemistoutlet.com.au

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MY JOURNEY

Nica Marcello

National Education Manager for Revlon & Elizabeth Arden

Passionate educator As National Education Manager for Revlon & Elizabeth Arden, no two days are the same for Nica Marcello. The qualified makeup artist, national trainer in cosmetics and corporate MC shares with Michelle Ruzzene her secrets to a successful career in beauty. WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? WHAT LESSONS DID YOU LEARN? My first job was in hospitality as a waitress. I learnt about resilience and the ability to think on my feet. I also learned that most of my skills came from an act of doing and learning from others.

WHAT’S ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN WHEN YOU BEGAN YOUR CAREER? I wish I knew that there was always someone who had done what you do before you. We put so much pressure on ourselves to be perfect from the start. Part of growing professionally and personally is about being humble and not afraid of asking for help.

IF YOU COULD TURN BACK THE TIME AND TALK TO YOUR 18-YEAR-OLD SELF, WHAT WOULD YOU TELL HER? I would tell her that there is always a reason for moments to happen in your life Although it sounds cliché each event is there to teach you something either about yourself, others and/or the world around you. To always look for the opportunities in what life presents you.

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL WEEKDAY LOOK LIKE TO YOU? I have a ritual of always having a cup of tea first thing in the morning, it sets the tone for the day. It is a time that I cherish and use to reflect. My day can differ from one to the next, I could be conducting virtual trainings, attending a press event or sitting in on meetings. When I get home, I always get out of my work clothes and into comfortable attire, I wash my face chat to girlfriends and my partner and then make time for the lounge and a series on Netflix. 74| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

WHAT DO YOU DO ON THE WEEKENDS? When the opportunity arises, I do makeup artist jobs, mainly for weddings. It is my creative outlet and I love it. Spending time in nature, whether that is long walks or just catching up with friends, I love to be outdoors

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST ROLE AS NATIONAL EDUCATION MANAGER, REVLON & ELIZABETH ARDEN? Being involved with two iconic brands is such an honour. I love empowering our consultants with knowledge not just on products but on delivering exceptional customer experiences. I love that no two days are the same and I get to work with amazingly talented individuals.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHTS? When I was working for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics I was invited to attend a Makeup Artist Bootcamp at her studio in New Jersey. I got to meet her and work alongside her where she shared her knowledge and the ethos behind her brand. It was very inspiring.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER CHALLENGES? The quick transition into the virtual learning space. I wouldn’t exactly call it a challenge, but it was a learning curve. Beauty is a soft skill that often lends itself to face to face training with skill sets being taught in the form of demonstrations. Transferring that content to a screen prompts you to be more creative which is great.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ‘FAILURE’, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT? There was a point in my career that I nearly got to burn out mode. I learnt that I cannot do absolutely everything and that is ok. I learnt to delegate more and focus more on the big picture.

MY JOURNEY

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A CAREER SIMILAR TO YOURS? I would always give the advice in finding passion in whatever career path you choose. Networking is really important in this industry, it may seem large, but it is quite a small world when it comes to beauty. Also not taking yourself too seriously. Yes, beauty is a business but it is meant to be fun and transformative so its important to have a certain lightness about you.

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY HEADED? I love how far beauty has come already. It is no longer about the expert as a brand. Customers are savvier when it comes to beauty and are more open to questioning brands and the industry on being positive role models. There is a shift in sustainability in the beauty industry and I see that continuing. With mental health issues becoming more apparent, I believe beauty brands will aim to have a more holistic approach by offering products that support physical, mental, and emotional well-being.

WHAT ARE THE BEST RESOURCES THAT HAVE HELPED YOU ALONG THE WAY? Social media, peers, mentors and family and friends for support.

WHAT MAKES YOU FEEL INSPIRED? I always draw my inspiration from those close to me. I admire so different qualities in my friends and family.

NICA MARCELLO’S CAREER PATH • National Education Manager Revlon & Elizabeth Arden - Feb 2022 - Present • National Education & Special Events Manager Estee Lauder & Tom Ford Beauty May 2015 - Apr 2021 • Trimex National Training Manager Fragrance & Beauty - Mar 2015 - May 2015 • Prada Training Manager Training Manager Oct 2012 - Dec 2014 • Bobbi Brown Cosmetics Education Artistry Manager - Jul 2008 - Oct 2012 • Cosmax Prestige Brands Australia National Training Manager - 2006 - 2008

We put so much pressure on ourselves to be perfect from the start. Part of growing professionally and personally is about being humble and not afraid of asking for help.

WHO ARE THE THREE PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN THE MOST INFLUENTIAL TO YOU? My mother for her tenacity, unwavering support, and belief in me. My brother, who has always been my rock and my sister who has given me guidance and inspiration.

WHAT IS THE ONE COMMON MYTH ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY THAT YOU WANT TO DEBUNK? That it is superficial. I have experienced many occasions where I have seen the significant impact that beauty products can have on a person’s life which goes far deeper than the surface. What makes someone feel beautiful is individual and using products that enhance that is positive.

WHAT DOES YOU DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE LOOK LIKE? Morning a light cleanse followed by a targeted serum. I alternate between vitamin C and glycolic. Then I will wear my SPF 50. At night I will double cleanse. I will follow with a retinol-based serum then a night cream. I also wear a moisturising lip balm.

WHAT’S YOUR HERO BEAUTY PRODUCT? I honestly have to say Eight Hour Cream! There are seriously so many ways to use 8 Hour. Soothe dry lips, salvage your cuticles, hand cream or even a highlight for the top of cheekbones and of course as a facial moisturiser.

WHAT WOULD YOU PICK FOR A LAST MEAL? Pasta! ■ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |75

FRAGRANCE

Natural Born Distillers Ormaie was founded in Paris by Marie-Lise Jonak and her son Baptise Bouygues. MarieLise, a fragrance professional, and her son, a creative director who had worked for brands such as Louis Vuitton and Givenchy, decided to create a range of fragrances that originated from a story, an emotion, a place or even a person. If that wasn’t difficult enough, they also agreed their scents would be 100 per cent natural, free from any synthetic preservatives – not an easy feat in the perfume world. Michelle Ruzzene sits down with Marie Lise to discover more about the family-owned, unisex, ethical and ecological fragrance brand.

also take much more time. When you are in the process of making a new creation, you cannot smell your modifications right away. You have to wait a few days before the natural molecules really assemble and develop their full beauty. It is a beautiful process but a very long one.

YOUR FRAGRANCES ARE 100 PER CENT NATURAL? WHY?

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE COMBINATION OF SUSTAINABILITY AND AESTHETICS?

There is something truly unique about nature. I believe it touches your soul. Natural ingredients are just exceptional and that is why we decided to make fragrances that were solely made out of the best natural ingredients. In addition, it was very important that everything was socially and environmentally responsible, and the best raw materials allowed that. Ormaie fragrances are made from 100 percent natural ingredients that are ethically sourced and environmentally responsible. The bottles are made from recycled glass, and the caps are manufactured from French beechwood. Each bottle is a small work of art.

In French “bon” and “beau”, “good” and “beautiful” are very close words. If we wanted to make something beautiful it had to be good. And that amongst other things had to take into account the social and environmental component. We could not make a fragrance like Yvonne, the name of my mother, if it was responsible. It would not have felt right.

WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES TO CREATING A FRAGRANCE THAT IS 100 PER CENT NATURAL? It was a know-how that had been forgotten. We had to work with a completely new pallet of scents. It was like making a painting with new colours. A lot of the process was learning. Natural ingredients 76| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

HOW IS IT WORKING WITH YOUR SON? Amazing! But the difficulty is to address your negative opinion during a discussion. It can be taken as a mum/son disapproval, when in fact it’s just an opinion to another colleague. Apart from that there are only positives sides. Frankly, if your roles within the family business are different, as well as your talents, it’s very easy to conduct the adventure with simplicity and joy. Baptiste and I work exceptionally well together. Each fragrance has a wooden bottle cap with a different shape – why? Every cap is linked to the story of the fragrance.

Papier Carbone – This is a work on memory. Papier Carbone means carbon copy. The paper that has a memory. Baptiste went to the same school as me, and we wanted to create a scent that reminded us of it. It’s that idea of the wood of the library, of the paper of the books. I also loved liquorice as a child. There is badiane (star anise) in it which will remind you of liquorice.

Yvonne - All of our fragrances are unisex. But I love beautiful feminine fragrances. I really wanted to work on a classic feminine but adding modernity to it. Yvonne is the name of my mother. And she loves fragrances. Yvonne was very much the idea of having the beautiful codes of classic feminine perfumery with patchouli and rose, while bring modernity to it with red fruits and blackcurrant. It’s really a timeless fragrance.

Le Passant - It means the man passing by. It is the smell Baptiste

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE PACKAGING? It was important for us to have a beautiful box, something you want to gift. We work with l’imprimerie du Marais in Paris to print our logo on the old Heideberg machines. There is something moving about that know-how. We then send the paper to Italy to make the box that fits perfectly around the bottle. When you open your box only the sculpture will appear. There is something exciting about that.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION FOR EACH SCENT? 28° - Baptiste had the idea of 28° when he was in the south of France. Sometimes when you walk in the south of France you can just smell jasmine or orange blossom. He remembers walking with a friend after an afternoon at the beach and still smelling the monoi (an infused perfume-oil made from soaking the petals of Tahitian gardenias in coconut oil) on her hair, but at the same time, smelling those beautiful white flowers which were surrounding them. That is what 28° is about- summer.

Les Brumes - This is very much about the idea of a morning walk in a citrus field in Italy. It’s those beautiful citruses and you can smell the morning dew going from the fruit onto the wood. For me, it’s a super complex smell that seems simple, which makes it very sophisticated. It’s very “rive gauche” as we will say in French.

remembers from his father. He used to wear a beautiful lavender fragrance, and Baptiste has always worn lavenders. We wanted Ormaie to have one. And as he was also carrying Papier d’Arménie (perfumed paper strips) in his pockets, the mix of the smell with the lavender were making something special . It’s that souvenir we have tried to bring back to life. Le Passant is really a beautiful lavender made smoother with vanilla tonka benzoin and ambrette. It’s a certain idea of masculinity for me.

L’Ivrée Bleue - This is a very narcotic scent. It’s the scent of the jungle, Baptiste used to work as a student in mines in South America. L’Ivrée Bleue is really the idea of the craziness that can be born in the jungle. There is something animalistic and addictive to it. With the rum, the dark vanilla, the cacao. But there are also touches of colour, like a painting from “le douanier Rousseau” (a French postimpressionist painter) with iris and lily.

Toï Toï Toï – It means good luck in German. With that scent we wanted to recreate the memory of one evening at the opera or ballet. Think the smell of the wooden boards, the expensive curtain fabrics, the wax of the shoes, the incense; and it’s why the fragrance is called Toï Toï Toï. It’s the phrase used by the ballet master to wish the dancers good luck, which translates to “break a leg” in English. ■

Ormaie also has a range of soaps and candles available. Ormaie is distributed in Australia through Agence de Parfum https://agencedeparfum.com.au

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Fragrance

Updates and Insights A round up of key factors driving the fragrance and perfume market, as well as the attention-worthy trends for 2022. By Clayton Ilolahia, Evaluation & Communications Manager Fragrances of the World by Xxxx at xxxxxxx

Q1 2022 LAUNCHES

2021 LAUNCHES

* 2021 figures from Fragrances of the World April 2021 newsletter

* 2020 figures from Fragrances of the World April 2021 newsletter

This year has seen a slow start for new launches. But while the figures look negative, we see no reason for alarm just yet. We’ve noticed the flexibility of brands during the pandemic. Cancelled launches have been rare, with brands preferring to press pause and hold out for a more favourable time. As industry insider George Ledes pointed out in January, “It’s a slow grind. All the meetings set to take place seem to have been put on hold.” We had the same experience. Many of our regular meetings were postponed while entire offices chose to ride out the Covid-19 wave working from home. By comparison, this time last year was down -35% on 1Q 2020 - but by the end of the year the gap closed. We expect the same will occur in 2022.

Last year we dubbed 2020 “a year of disruption and change”. Disruption continued in 2021 but all signs pointed to an industry that had learned to push through the pandemic. The return of major trade shows like Pitti Fragranze and the Tax-Free World Association exhibition in Cannes encouraged new launches and we started to see growth across distribution channels for the first time since 2019. Niche continues to dominate, but the biggest success story is the growth of luxury fragrances. While the number is still relatively small, despite almost doubling on the previous year, it demonstrates the power of luxury brands to thrive in trying times. 2021 was the year to keep calm and carry on.

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FRAGRANCE

ATTENTION-WORTHY TRENDS FOR 2022 1: Escape artist

As if a pandemic weren’t enough to make us want to escape to happier times, 2022 has continued to test humanity with global conflict and natural disasters. Fragrances help us dream and leave the present for an imaginary world or indulge in memories of good times. New fragrances can take the wearer on a journey like Meo Fusciuni’s Encore du Temps. “I wish time would stop now,” says perfumer Guiseppe Imprezzabile. This latest fragrance was created from a memory of his time spent in Laos. EXAMPLES OF THE TREND: Encore du Temps by Meo Fusciuni Vacation by Vacation (Arquiste) Blushing Sands by Estée Lauder

2: Eternal rose

Perfumery’s timeless queen, the rose, never goes out of fashion. Through these disruptive times, we noticed an increase in rose-inspired scents, which offer consumers comforting familiarity. These new rose soliflores play on the various facets of the flower, from green foliage and stems to the spicy, honeyed notes of velvety petals. This season there is a rose scent for everyone. EXAMPLES OF THE TREND: Rose d’Amalfi by Tom Ford

THE MOST POPULAR FRAGRANCE FAMILIES OF 2021

Eau Rose Eau de Parfum by Diptyque Rose Carnivora by Dries Van Noten

3: Reinvented icons

Users of our database will be familiar with Michael Edwards’ fragrance families, which our evaluation team has used to classify over 43,000 fragrances. This universal language offers the precise ability to identify global shifts in olfactory trends. Our observation of the past year was that fragrances were increasingly more textural, as we reported seeing more powdery notes and increases in fragrance concentrations. Unsurprisingly we saw growth in the Woody and Ambery families. Amber fragrances increased by 30% last year, Dry Woods by 20% and Mossy Woods by 12%. Notes such as leather, incense, vanilla, oakmoss and patchouli were popular notes, featuring regularly in the most searched fragrances across our global network of retailer Fragrance Finders.

We are seeing brands building on their past successes with new flankers. Guy Laroche’s first launch in eight years is not a new pillar fragrance but a reinvention of iconic Drakkar, called Drakkar Intense. Dior continue to build the Miss Dior name for a younger generation, with the launch of a new Miss Dior Eau de Parfum. The French luxury brand also launched Sauvage Elixir and reported that Sauvage is now the best-selling fragrance worldwide, with one bottle selling every three seconds. This is the first time a men’s fragrance has taken the top spot. Niche fragrance houses typically steer clear of flankers, instead, they play with concentration. P.Frapin & Cie’s 1270 Extrême pushes one of the brand’s bestsellers to the extreme with heady Sambac jasmine added to the original melange of spices, amber and woods. EXAMPLES OF THE TREND: 1270 Extrême by P.Frapin & Cie Miss Dior Eau de Parfum by Dior Drakkar Intense by Guy Laroche

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Clayton Ilolahia

FRAGRANCE

Scents and

Sustainability As consumption of perfume increases so too does the need for industry practices that sustain business continuity and protection of the natural resources to which perfume is tethered. by Clayton Ilolahia

he global perfume market size reached USD 33.5 billion in 2021 and is expected to grow at 6.1% over the next five years. Rising public awareness of the impact consumption has on the environment has influenced companies to rethink their approach to business. In 2020, Mobium Group surveyed over 2000 Australians between the age of 16-75. “Unprompted, global warming is the #1 thing people call out as their biggest social or environmental concern.” Global warming even beat COVID-19 for the top spot. The six environmental issues respondents were most concerned about are ocean pollution and overfishing, climate change, plastic waste, toxic chemicals, loss of forests and habitat, and air pollution. To respond to these concerns, sustainability has an important role in corporate strategy, touching every aspect of bringing a fragrance product onto the market. Consideration is given to the growers and producers of raw ingredients to the sites where fragrance is produced, the packaging, how the product is shipped, sold and how remnants of the product are disposed of. Perfume is a complex product, sometimes containing hundreds of ingredients. Traditionally, perfume formulas are highly guarded secrets. A brand owner will purchase the compounded ‘juice’ from a perfumer’s oil house. The exact formula is 80| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

never divulged to protect the intellectual property of the perfumer and oil house. This has been a standard industry practice, but it is evolving as more brand owners are asking to trace the origin of ingredients used in their products to ensure they comply with sustainability and ethical sourcing standards. Increased transparency is desirable. All multinational flavour and fragrance producers now have sustainability strategies in place, which support improved traceability for ingredients and service to clients creating ‘clean beauty’ products. Swiss company Givaudan is on a journey

by Xxxx xxxxxxx

to become the first in its industry to receive B Corp certification, which will offer independently verified proof the company is living up to the highest standards of being a responsible and sustainable business. Swiss competitor Firmenich has a sustainability plan with three pillars: Acting on climate change, embracing nature, and caring about people. Their plan aligns with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. These plans take effect at the top of the company chain and flow down to the small independent farmers, many of whom are based in developing nations. Mid-size producers have also embraced sustainability. Family-owned company CPL Aromas has built a plan on four pillars, one of which is innovation. CPL Aroma’s EcoBoost Technology is an innovation that results in a high impact fragrance at 10% of the normal fragrance dosage. This is an entirely different way for perfumers to formulate and provides many benefits including a reduced carbon footprint since less energy and packaging is used in manufacturing, and waste and transportation costs are smaller. In general, perfumers now write shorter formulas compared to previous generations, making future reformulation required after changing regulations much easier and there is less impact on the environment when fewer ingredients are used.

FRAGRANCE

EcoBoost will fundamentally shift the way fragranced products are developed and made, to truly support a more sustainable future for everyone. CPL Aroma perfumer, Angela Stavrevska

Brands are the junction point between suppliers and consumers. They are significantly accountable to ensure everything that goes into a product is sourced with sustainability in mind, and any negative impact on the environment that results from consumption is negated or minimised. Garnier International Scientific & Sustainability Director Aurélie Weinling says, “Today, our world faces distinct challenges and consumers are increasingly changing their behaviour, becoming more conscious of the need to protect the environment and save natural resources for future generations. We have the opportunity

to make a real impact, helping to create access to sustainable beauty for all. We believe in the pressing need to shift from a linear approach, whereby companies ‘take, make and dispose’ of natural resources, to a more circular, regenerative economy.” The concept of a circular economy was introduced in China during the 1990s. Restorative and regenerative by design, materials used to create a product or component can be disassembled and broken down by nature or returned to production in one form or another. Recycling or repurposing non-biodegradable materials reduces the need for purchasing new commodities, and renewable energy is used in manufacturing and transportation. This is a seismic change for the global cosmetics industry, which currently produces 120 billion units of plastic packaging annually. The change has been gradual and although many brands are supportive, access to sustainable materials has been limited, such as recycled glass in the quality used for perfume bottles. The bottle of the latest fragrance launch by Italy’s Acqua di Parma uses 10% recycled glass. “Colonia Club is environmentally friendly: with a view to sustainability, the bottle, which is made partly of recycled glass, and with a top made of recycled plastic, is fitted with a dispenser which helps make it easy to separate for recycling. The outer packaging is made of 100% FSC cardboard, a certification that promotes responsible forestry management worldwide. Finally, the labels are made of fully recyclable mono-material.” While larger companies like Garnier hold more control over the ingredients and components that go into their products due to their size and buying clout, small independent companies often face additional challenges to work sustainably as the suppliers they have access to are limited or more expensive and not all costs can be passed onto the consumer. Marie-Lise Jonak is the co-founder of Ormaie, a niche fragrance brand based in France that uses 100% all-natural ingredients in its formulas. “The Ormaie raw materials are selected for their quality and the ethical and ecological conditions in which they are produced.” The fragrances are colourant-free. The glass bottles are produced using renewable energy

and the bottle caps use beech wood sourced from responsibly managed forests. While it is standard practice for perfume packaging to be cellophane wrapped, Ormaie has designed a paper box made from 40% recycled fibres, 55% from sustainably managed forests and 5% from cotton. Brands like Ormaie believe consumers are willing to pay a little more for peace of mind knowing that their products were created with sustainability in mind. As brands become more vocal about sustainability, these practices are becoming the new standard instead of a novelty. Consumer choice is influenced not only by the brand story and the desire to smell good but also by a brand’s demonstrated value of sustainability. While there is still a long way to go to allow consumers to play a more active role in fragrance sustainability, there is an increase in retailers offering perfume refilling services instore and initiatives like the TerraCycle program has been welcomed by the public who can now dispose of used cosmetic packaging at selected David Jones department stores. In addition to sustainability, digital is the other big trend in fragrance right now. There is no doubt that in the future, technology will play a key role in supporting the industry to create even more sustainable scents as nature remains the source of perfume’s inspiration. ■ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022 |81

LGFB

Feel Better Fridays

Take F light

Since its inception in 1990, with the unwavering support of the cosmetic industry the Cancer Patients Foundation’s Look Good Feel Better program has helped to empower cancer patients by focussing on the appearance-related side effects of their treatment.

Home Delivered Confidence Kits are delivered to women, men and teens undergoing treatment for cancer.

hrough Face-to-Face Workshops, Virtual Workshops and Home-Delivered Confidence Kits, patients have been given the practical skills, knowledge and tools needed to “look good” in a way that helps them feel more confident in navigating their cancer diagnosis. To enhance the service offering and further improve the outlook for those diagnosed with cancer, wellbeing programs aimed at reducing the physical, psychological and social impacts of cancer treatment have now been launched by the charity. 82| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Known as Feel Better Fridays, the program will run on a weekly basis as another vital resource assisting cancer patients of all ages, genders, and cancer types to learn practical strategies to improve fitness, mobility, and mental wellbeing. Carol Kavurma, General Manager of the Cancer Patients Foundation and Look Good Feel Better, said “Over an 18-month period we consulted with a number of Health Professionals across Australia and identified a need for a centralised source of information and guidance addressing cancer patients’ physical

LGFB

activity and mental wellbeing during treatment. Essentially, an enhancement of our service to further deliver on the ‘Feel Better’ component of our program’s name. “We initially explored the concept during Feel Better Month in September last year and, overwhelmingly, the feedback confirmed that information and guidance on overall wellness during cancer treatment was both in-demand and deemed of great benefit.” The new service offering will include virtual workshops on exercise, nutrition, and healthy cooking with a focus on the specific needs of those undergoing cancer treatment. It will also cover a range of yoga and meditation options, Qigone; a practice similar to Tai Chi for calming the mind, relaxing the body and increasing energy levels, Pranayama; the practice of breath regulation, Emotional Freedom Tapping; an alternative method for relieving physical pain and emotional distress, and dressing for a changing body shape. The virtual workshops will be delivered by a number of qualified specialists working in each field and the content has been curated with the purpose of improving participant’s capacity to manage the physical and emotional side-effects of cancer treatment, helping to lessen the impact of the disease overall. Carol noted that: “Exercise is known to reduce the side effects of both the cancer and its debilitating treatments, and can improve functional ability, quality of life and ultimately, survival. Coupled with research that has shown Look Good Feel Better’s support can help with managing stress, depression and anxiety, reclaiming body confidence and control, increasing overall mental wellbeing and shifting focus from illness to wellness, the progression of the program into the health and wellness space was a natural one. “The overall positive impact of our program is felt not only by our participants, but their family, friends, colleagues and the broader community, so we’re proud of what this means for all who are burdened by the impacts of cancer and its treatments.” As health care providers and patients improve their understanding around supportive care and the significant

A Look Good Feel Better Face-to-Face Workshop.

difference it can make to overall wellbeing, the demand for services like Look Good Feel Better has increased dramatically. The Cancer Patients Foundation expects to support up to 10,000 women, men and teens through the Look Good Feel Better program this year, giving participants a sense of connection and belonging no matter their location or circumstance, and improving their physical function, confidence, and sense of wellbeing. Despite the enhancements to the program and the increases to frequency, all services will remain free for patients with no restrictions on age, cancer or treatment type, or treatment stage. These are important principles of the program, ensuring accessibility to anyone who requires support. “The cosmetic industry has been our backbone for 32 years now and we’re counting on the continuation of these vital relationships to deliver these much-needed services across the country,” Carol said. “We all know someone who has dealt with a cancer diagnosis and we therefore all know the toll it can take on their physical, mental and emotional wellbeing. With our combined experience and expertise across the beauty and wellness space, we’re in a privileged position to help make a difficult time for others just that little bit easier.” ■ For more information on Look Good Feel Better, the services offered, and partnership opportunities visit lgfb. org.au, follow on Facebook, Instagram and LinkedIn @LGFBAustralia or email info@lgfb.org.au.

Carol Kavurma, General Manager of the Cancer Patients Foundation and Look Good Feel Better.

To show your support and ensure the program can remain free-of-charge, give a gift at lgfb.org.au/donate.

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BRAND NEWS

Hydration hero

Cetaphil has launched a new range of skincare products, Optimal Hydration. With dry skin being the number one skin concern in Australia, the range delivers long-lasting hydration through a combination of moisturising ingredients and blue daisy to boost the skin and soothe sensitivity. The new range features Deep Hydration 48 Hour Activation Serum, Deep Hydration Healthy Glow Daily Cream, Deep Hydration Refreshing Eye Serum, Sheer Hydration Body Spray Moisturiser and Sheer Hydration Replenishing Body Lotion. All Cetaphil products are specially formulated for sensitive skin, dermatologically tested, colourant free, paraben free, and mineral oil free. www.cetaphil.com.au

Made for Men

Founded by twin brothers Shane and Jake, who themselves struggled for years to find the perfect products best suited to their skincare needs, UK brand Shakeup Cosmetics is a gamechanging new concept in men’s beauty, offering everyday men easy-to-use skincare and hybrid-cosmetic products. The range is vegan, cruelty-free and specifically designed for men’s skin type and concerns; as well as men’s lifestyles delivering multipurpose and multifunctional products with quality ingredients to achieve both instantly visible results and long-term skin health. Shakeup Cosmetics is working alongside local distributor Chemcorp International, with the range launching in Myer from mid-May. Retailers interested in the brand can contact the Chemcorp International team on 02 9526 077. www.chemcorp.com.au

Sustainable Serum

innisfree has launched its best-selling Green Tea Seed Serum repackaged in a glass bottle. The new bottle is made from 60 per cent recycled glass, featuring a metalfree pump with the outer packaging made from leftover green tea and 30 per cent recycled pulp materials. innisfree offers empty bottle recycling programs instores, where customers are encouraged to bring in their empties and are rewarded with loyalty points through their membership. Since 2003, the brand has collected, recycled and upcycled over 20 million empties globally and in Australia, over 50,000 empties have been collected and recycled since 2018. Green Tea Seed Serum in Glass bottle is available in stores and online at innisfree, and at Sephora and Adore Beauty Australia and New Zealand. www.innisfreeaustralia.com.au 84| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

BRAND NEWS

Thicker, fuller lashes

The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum is a concentrated, lightweight serum that is designed to promote the look of thicker, fuller and healthier lashes and brows. This formula incorporates active ingredients which target multiple pathways to support healthy hair. These ingredients include acetyl tetrapeptide-3, biotinoyl tripeptide-1, oligopeptide-2 and myristoyl pentapeptide-17 which work to support increased density and thickness while nourishing and protecting hair. These peptides are supported with extracts from tea tree, red clover and larch wood, as well as glycoproteins, caffeine, zinc chloride and panthenol. Launches June 9. www.theordinary.com

Wellness from within

Leading US collagen brand Vital Proteins has is launching in Australia. Jennifer Aniston joined the team as Chief Creative Officer, putting her take on new product innovations and overall brand strategy. Collagen helps support the health and integrity of the body’s tissues, especially in muscles, tendons, bones, joints and skin. As the human body ages, it becomes less efficient at producing collagen, which is the most abundant

Un-bee-lievable lips

Dermal Therapy has expanded their lip care range with the launch of a new Lip Balm enriched with Manuka Honey. Their Lip Balm Original is now the number one selling lip balm in pharmacies with one tube across their range being sold in Australia every 30 seconds. This is the first lip balm in pharmacies to be formulated with 2% MGO 400+ Manuka Honey which works to intensely heal skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Dermal Therapy Lip Balms are the only lip balms in the market to contain 2.5% urea - an ingredient that works to dissolve dry skin flakes and act as an exfoliant to help replenish the moisture levels of the skin. www.dermaltherapy.com.au

protein in the body and provides the building blocks to support the structural framework that holds everything together. Each Vital Proteins product provides approximately 10g collagen per recommended serving. The five collagen products in the range include Collagen Peptides Powder, Collagen Peptides Powder sachets, Marine Collagen Peptides Powder, Collagen Creamer Vanilla Flavour and Collagen Creamer Coconut. www.vitalproteins.com.au

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BRAND NEWS

Shiny, bouncy, balmy

Lanolips has taken its best-selling 101 Fruities and added a transparent fruity tint. For a super soft, bouncy balm with our famous lanolin, fruity benefits. This naturally fruity, tinted balm gives an ultra-soft transparent tint to deepen, brighten and enhance natural lip colour - while drenching them in intense lanolin hydration. The range is available in Watermelon, Cherry and Strawberry and is available at Lanolips.com, Priceline, David Jones, Mecca, Sephora and Adore Beauty. www.lanolips.com

Get glowing

Plump, glowing skin just got easier with the launch of new glowto Collagen Beauty Tablets from leading Australian wellness brand Nutra Organics. Promising to make taking daily collagen easy without compromising on superior quality and outstanding results, Collagen Beauty Tablets decrease the signs of skin aging factors after eight weeks use and support healthy hair, nails and gut. The original Collagen Beauty powders have racked up over 2000 glowing five-star reviews from women since their 2017 launch, earning cult status with a Collagen Beauty selling every 2 minutes. The superior efficacy of the product all comes down to the verisol bioactive collagen peptides, plus bioavailable sources of natural vitamin C and zinc. This same success was built into the new Collagen Beauty Tablets, created by Nutra Organics research nutritionist Joana Graca together with a team of leading biochemists. www.nutraorganics.com.au

Sans sulphates

Pantene Nutrients Blends has launched its first ever sulphate-free collection. The range specialises in cleansing and replenishing coloured and/or damaged hair. With three new lead ingredients each designed to tackle unique hair concerns: jojoba oil for colour care, castor oil for damage repair and rose water for a moisture boost, the 0% sulphates pro-V formula with nutriplex keeps hair nourished, looking healthy and strong. www.pantene.com.au/en-au

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BRAND NEWS Plump it up

Since its launch, Pump Plump has been a fan-favourite in Ciaté’s line-up of beauty innovations. With its signature sheer wash of colour still firmly in place, the gloss has been re-formulated with the brands bespoke triple-R complex to rejuvenate, renew and replenish lips. Infused with squalane, raspberry seed oil and hyaluronic acid, this super smoothing, plumping gloss creates full lips in moments. Now application is easier than ever with a brand new large doe foot applicator for precise, smooth application. Available in two staple and veganfriendly shades; Blossom (soft pink) and Honey Dew (natural caramel). www.mecca.com.au

Home-compostable lipstick

Ethique has launched its first lipstick range in the brand’s signature plastic-free, home-compostable tubes. Until now, the brand has been best known for their range of beauty bars for hair, face and body. The seven-shade range represents their first step into colour cosmetics. Ethique have formulated pigmented, long wearing lipsticks in seven classic shades ranging from rich reds, through to warm peaches and deep berry tones. Each lipstick features a unique blend of nutrient-rich ingredients and child labour-free pigments to offer vibrant colour. All products are certified vegan, palm oil-free, plastic-free and cruelty-free. www.ethique.com.au

No nasties

Clinically clean and completely free of BAD (Banned, Ambiguous or Debatable) ingredients, the range of Naturally Serious Skincare products are consciously formulated to be good for your skin, good for the environment and cruelty-free. They are dedicated to their mission of providing skin care that is: Cleanly made. Ethically developed. Clinically tested. This May they will launch two new products to their range: Lemon-Aid Makeup-Removing Cleansing Gel, a lemon-y power cleanser that removes long-wear makeup and provides a sensorial anti-oxidant boost with lemon seed oil and lemon butter, and Sleepover Retin-Oil Night-time Treatment, that smooths the look of fine lines and wrinkles with 2% vegan retinol liposome, a naturally derived retinol from beta-carotene. www.naturallyseriousskin.com

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BRAND NEWS Biodiversity specialists

For the team behind Bottega 1900, it’s not about selling in bulk or mass consumption. But rather an effort to re-educate Australians on what goes into their bodies – whether it be through the food they eat or the products on their skin. Bottega 1900’s range of speciality products offers premium extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegars, ancient grain pastas and a single organic beauty brand - Biofficina Toscana. The certified ecofriendly organic cosmetics promise sustainability, made only with ingredients from certified organic and biodynamic agriculture and packaging. Biofficina Toscana products are manufactured with a low environmental impact, and the entire production process is powered by renewable energy. The bottles are environmentally friendly, made from 100% recyclable materials from sugar cane, unlike most other materials made from petrolbased sources. www.biofficinatoscana.com/en/

Beauty sleep

Beauty Sleep Co has released an Australian-first product to the market with their beauty pillow. A simple silk pillowcase doesn’t help the pressure of a heavy head against a regular pillow, which over time can cause permanent sleep wrinkles. And this is where the Beauty Sleep Co The Selene Pillow comes in. The cut out is positioned so no pressure is put on the fragile skin around the eye area while you sleep. The pillow comes with a cruelty free navy satin case that reduces friction on the skin which can also contribute to the formation of fine lines. www.beautysleepco.com

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Packs a punch

Following seven years of research, Nu Skin has launched ageLOC Meta. Powered by anthocyanins, natural health-beneficial compounds found in the deepest purple berries and black rice, the formula is shown to support a healthy body metabolism. It also restores beneficial intestinal flora for better gut health. ageLOC Meta is perfect for today’ s hectic world because it helps counteract the effects of a modern lifestyle when combined with healthy eating, regular exercise, and better sleep. www.nuskin.com

Congratulations Terry Little Industry leaders past and present gathered to celebrate the career of Terry Little and his award of Life Membership of Accord Australasia. By Dr Jennifer Semple

Emmerentia Wilding, Terry Little and John Koppl.

he two-year delay in marking this honour due to the Covid-19 pandemic made this long-awaited event all the sweeter. Terry joined the Accord Board in June 2009 and was elected as Vice-Chairman by the member companies in 2010. Upon his retirement from Estée Lauder and the industry, the Accord Board of Directors unanimously voted for Terry to become a life member of Accord, joining the ranks of other notable industry statesmen such as Graeme Howard (formerly Revlon), Gavin Blackburn (formerly Coty) and Chris Pedersen (formerly Colgate-Palmolive and previous Chair of Accord). Celebrating over dinner and drinks at the Sydney Harbour Marriott, Terry and Accord staff were joined by current Accord Directors and industry leaders Clynton Bartholomeusz (Beiersdorf), Rajiv Chinniah (Coty), Emmerentia Wilding and John Koppl (Estée 90| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2022

Lauder), Ben Brander (Helios Health & Beauty), Rosi Fernandez (La Prairie Group), Pierre-Emmanuel Joffre (L’Occitane), LaurentEmmanuel Saffre (Pierre Fabre), Peter Playford (Puig Oceania) and Tracey Raso (Revlon & Elizabeth Arden and current Accord Chair), as well as Accord Life Members Gavin Blackburn and Chris Pedersen. And reflecting the high esteem in which Terry is held by all Accord colleagues was the strong presence of Accord Directors from the hygiene products and raw materials sectors. Accord Executive Director Bronwyn Capanna reflected on Terry’s career in a speech that emphasised his integrity, leadership, commitment and common sense. “Very shortly after taking up the reins of the Estée Lauder Group of Companies, Terry recognised not only the need to be a leader within his company but also the importance of his role as an industry statesman and spokesperson,” she said.

ACCORD

“At Accord, he has also been very generous with his time and support for the work of the industry association, wisely guiding the industry’s key strategies and policy developments over a decade and actively representing and supporting the industry. “And we have benefited from one of his other traits—generosity. He has been so very generous with his time and his support not only for Accord, but also for Look Good Feel Better, the amazing cosmetic industry’s charity that supports cancer patients.” Terry’s sense of humour did not go un-noted, highlighted by a certain incident of photo-bombing a photo of Bronwyn with Prime Minister Scott Morrison. Bronwyn thanked Terry for all his generous support, commitment and engagement and his significant efforts on behalf of Accord and the cosmetic industry in Australia.

Peter Playford, Tracey Raso, Rajiv Chinniah, Brad Macdougall and Clynton Bartholomeusz.

Life Membership of Accord Australasia members Chris Pedersen, Terry Little and Gavin Blackburn.

All CEOs should actively engage with Accord on their incredibly important business advocacy—if you don’t, you’re really missing out. Terry responded, reflecting on his long career and now retirement. “I loved working for the cosmetic industry and am honoured that my peers have recognised me with this Life Membership Award,” he said. “I enjoyed my time working with Accord, not only because of the vital work they do but also for friendships that were established.” Terry also encouraged all businesses in the cosmetic industry, regardless of size, to take advantage of the terrific services and expert guidance Accord has to offer. “All CEOs should actively engage with Accord on their incredibly important business advocacy—if you don’t, you’re really missing out.” Congratulations on a fabulous career Terry—you should be very proud.

Clynton Bartholomeusz, Emmerentia Wilding, Gavin Blackburn and Rosi Fernandez.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE Rianna Goodwin, Laurent Saffre, Pierre Emmanuel Joffre, Peter Playford, Rosi Fernandez, Ben Brander and Steph Hollands.

Dr Jennifer Semple, Manager, Education & Sustainability Programs, Accord Australasia

ABOUT ACCORD Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

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Out & About

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty.

BEAUTY PRESCRIPTION Priceline showcased the latest cult-worthy products from 50 brands – including 21 exclusive brands – to more than 170 media and influencers at Royal Randwick Racecourse for the The Beauty Prescription [LIVE] tradeshow media event. Priceline Pharmacy General Manager Andrew Vidler said while Australians “spent two years laying low from the pandemic, Priceline’s merchandise team continued scouring the globe – albeit virtually – to remain ahead of the trends”. The program included an exclusive founders’ panel session featuring Craig Schweighoffer of Boost Lab, Iris Smit of The Quick Flick and Vicki Engsall of The Jojoba Company. Head of Marketing Gabrielle Tully took to the stage to share Priceline’s top sellers, new product launches and the brand’s content series The Awkward Ask with Tanya Hennessy and Priceline Pharmacist Jeyda Shiaxiates. Gabby also hosted a Q and A with Richard ‘Dicky Boy’ Vincent, Chief Executive Officer and Managing Director of Priceline’s parent company, Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (API). Brands ranged exclusively at Priceline Pharmacy and showcased at the event included No7, Vital Proteins, Australian Glow, Barry M, Black Leopard, Cake, Carbon Theory, Cinch, Daily Naturals, Good Dye Young, Keep It Simple Skin, Milani, Noughty, NYX Professional Makeup, ProX by Olay, Q+A Skincare, Revolution, SheaMoisture, Skin Proud, Strivectin, Tanologist and more. 02. 01. 01. Iris Smit, Craig 02.

03. 04. 05.

Schweighoffer and Vicki Engsall. Sarah Laidlaw, Richard Vincent, Tanya Hennessy and Andrew Vidler. Gabrielle Tully on stage. The Shea Moisture stall. The L’Oréal Paris stand.

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BONJOUR MADAME Eau Thermale Avène, owned by Pierre Fabre Group, hosted a High Tea event at L’Heritage to celebrate their three anti-ageing ranges and its newest addition, the DermAbsolu Recontouring Mask. Guests attended the event with an inspirational woman in their life, where they were invited to take beautiful Frenchinspired portraits together and enjoy the delicious high tea. CoCo Giddings, Product Specialist/Trainer at Pierre Fabre Group, spoke about the new mask and said the recontouring mask restores firmness, hydrates and illuminates the skin.

03. 01. Pierre Fabre

Group’s CoCo Giddings. 02. Paula Joye. 03. Michelle Ruzzene and Susie Thompson.

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02.

BRIGHT SIDE Australian oral care brand, White Glo, celebrated its relaunch with new toothpastes, toothpaste tablets, mouthwash, and at-home teeth whitening devices, developed after seven years of research and development with dentists. The brand, available in most major supermarket chains, has been a leader in the teeth whitening category for more than 25 years, since being established in 1995. By 2024, the brand hopes to have created a biodegradable toothpaste tube and packaging range and has partnered with CleanHub to help recover the equivalent plastic waste in oceans for the new range. Photos by Esteban La Tessa.

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02.

03.

01. Monika Rad. 02. Cosmetic dentist Dr Aodhan Docherty.

03. Icy Ling.

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OUT & ABOUT

ICONIC LAUNCH

After launching the beauty category in August 2020 with 35 brands, The Iconic is now home to over 220 leading international and local brands including MAC, Estée Lauder, Clinique, Kora Organics, YSL, Giorgio Armani Lancôme, Redken, Shu Uemura, Dyson, Vida Glow, The Ordinary, Beneﬁt Cosmetics, Clarins, Bobbi Brown, Elizabeth Arden, Aesop, Glasshouse Fragrances and more . To celebrate the launch of the company’s ﬁrst ever beauty campaign, Founder and CEO of Kora Organics, Miranda Kerr, spoke at an immersive beauty and wellness event at a penthouse studio in Sydney’s CBD. Guests sipped on fresh watermelon juice and turmeric lattes as they made their way through experiential beauty and wellness zones. 01.

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KOREAN STAR Sulwhasoo launched the fifth edition of its best-selling Concentrated Ginseng range; Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream, Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream Classic, Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Water and Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Emulsion. The range was revealed to media with a briefing in the Golden Age Cinema & Bar by Madeline Li, Marketing Manager, Australia – Laneige & Sulwhasoo and John Jeong, Marketing Manager, Australia – Laneige & Sulwhasoo. During the presentation, it was announced that Sulwhasoo was now available on Adore Beauty. It was previously available exclusively at Sephora Australia and NZ. A virtual tour of the Sulwhasoo Flagship in Seoul was showcased by Hailey Park, Sulwhasoo Global Marketing Manager.

01. The Iconic’s Beauty Editor Sophie Howe with Miranda Kerr. 02. Brooke Blurton 03. Deni Todorović, Laura Byrne and Brittany Hockley.

01. Michelle Zavarce, John Jeong and Madeline Li. 02. Michelle Ruzzene and Elise Wilson. 03. Polly Viska.

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OUT & ABOUT

LIFT AND FIRM Famous for its Ceramide franchise launched in 1990, Elizabeth Arden forever changed the skincare industry with the introduction of Ceramide Capsules – the first-of-its-kind, bio-engineered, skin-identical ceramides available in a single-dose capsule format. The brand relaunched its Advanced Ceramide Lift & Firm Creams in 2021, which was a reformulation of the original Lift & Firm Creams but with five times the ceramide power to replenish and restore skin. The SPF 15 Day Cream SKU is the brand’s newest launch, which was showcased to media over a light breakfast following a 30-minute boxing class at Shelter.

01. Guests enjoy

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breakfast following the boxing class. 02. The SPF 15 Day Cream is the newest launch. 03. Guests worked up a sweat with a boxing class.

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GOOD HABITS Habitual Beauty’s formulas are completely free from parabens, PEGs, synthetic fragrance, mineral oils, silicones, phthalates, sulfates and artificial colours. Instead, they are clean, low-tox and combine naturally derived ingredients and Australian native botanicals with clinical actives. The brand, which includes nutraceuticals and skincare products, was founded by successful Australian beauty entrepreneur Keira Rumble, who also founded collagen snack brand Beauty Bites. The brand was launched with the endorsement of the exclusive LVMH program, Sephora Accelerate, an intensive bootcamp designed to help fast track brands on a global scale. Habitual Beauty was officially launched over breakfast at the Centennial Homestead. Photos by Esteban La Tessa.

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01. Host Gemma Watts. 02. Bahar Etminan. 03. Keira Rumble and her son.

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OUT & ABOUT

TECH HUB

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Australian consumers were invited to discover, explore and better understand how Dyson technology works at Dyson’s first-ever Demo store. Situated on George Street, in the heart of Sydney, the new immersive Demo space forms a part of Dyson’s global drive to grow its directto-consumer retail ambitions and has the largest trading retail space of any Dyson store across Asia and Australasia. One key area is the Beauty Lab where shoppers can have their hair health analysed and be styled with Dyson Hair Care technologies. The new Demo store also has a dedicated space equipped with three styling stations. At the Personalisation Bar, customers can also enjoy complimentary case debossing for their Dyson Supersonic hair dryer or Dyson Airwrap styler with a selection of colours for the foil initials and giftwrapping services.

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01. The Dyson Demo Store in Sydney. 02. Dyson Senior Product Demonstration Manager, Ben Bobillier, in the Beauty Lab.

03. The Personalisation Bar.

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JVN JVN Hair, founded by Jonathan Van Ness, officially launched into Australia with an intimate information session at MaxMediaLab HQ. The brand has a focus on science-backed, sustainable ingredients and is nongendered haircare made for everyone. Erica Salgado, Senior Global Marketing Manager at JVN, said the products contained “revolutionary ingredients like hemisqualane, our sugarcane-derived hero, in every formula”. Jonathan, who is non-binary and best known as the grooming expert on the Netflix series Queer Eye, joined the launch virtually from the US. He said the brand didn’t focus on hair types or gender but rather chose to address particular hair concerns. There are 11 products in total, tackling everything from curl definition to taming frizz - all housed in aluminium or glass that’s 100 per cent recyclable, vegan, sulphate and silicone free. JVN is available at Sephora.

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01. Jonathan Van

Ness addressed the crowd virtually from the US. 02. Erica Salgado, Senior Global Marketing Manager at JVN. 03. All products are housed in aluminium or glass.

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OUT & ABOUT

URBAN JUNGLE

Clarins invited the public to take a deep dive into the world of plantbased, science-driven beauty at an open-air laboratory. The pop-up herbarium, erected in Sydney’s Pitt Street, allowed attendees the chance to gain an insight into Clarins’ commitment to results using natural ingredients. Visitors were able to learn about the stories behind the brand’s products, particularly the Double Serum, which contains 21 plant extracts, including Fair Trade-approved turmeric which helps to awaken tired skin. A living ‘heart wall’ installation by Hermetica provided the perfect backdrop for a selfie. An online interactive website was accessible to those unable to attend the immersive physical site.

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BONDI BABES

01. The herbarium was erected in Sydney’s Pitt Street. 02. Clarins Double Serum was showcased. 03. Guests in the pop-up herbarium.

Bondi Sands launched its Everyday Skincare range over an intimate sit down lunch at Hotel Ravesis in Bondi. At the event, 12 products were unveiled, to cover every step of a skincare routine. The products showcased included a gel cleanser, gentle chemical exfoliant, four serums and an oil, three moisturisers, eye cream and a clay mask. A panel of key speakers and experts, including Gemma Watts, founder of Glow Journal Creative and Michelle Wong aka @labmuffinbeautyscience, spoke about the range, and said it was suitable for all skin types, even the sensitive 02. ones. The range contains Australian natural botanicals and features 100% recyclable post-consumer packaging.

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01. The range was

launched over an intimate sitdown lunch. 02. Michelle Wong. 03. Gemma Watts.

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index

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Retail Beauty 72 Winter 2022

Articles inside

OUT & ABOUT

BRAND NEWS

LGFB: FEEL BETTER FRIDAYS

FRAGRANCE: ORMAIE

INFLUENCER: COMPLEXION PERFECTION

FEATURE: 5 MINUTES WITH... NICOLE TRUNFIO

AUSSIE MADE: UNLABELLED

FEATURE: INJESTIBLE BEAUTY

FEATURE: COLLAGEN SUPPLEMENTS

TRENDS

INDUSTRY NEWS

COVER STORY: WELEDA