The Tomato May-June 2014 by Tomato

Formerly City Palate

Take a bite of your city | May June 2014 | thetomato.ca

The Wine (and cocktail)

Issue.

editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

publisher

Contents

BGP Publishing

Features

tkda project manager Tanya Hook tanya@thetomato.ca

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Peter Bailey Cindy Lazarenko Morris Lemire Amanda LeNeve Judy Schultz

illustration/photography Mauve Pagé Gerry Rasmussen To Be in Pictures

design and prepress Bossanova Communications Inc.

printer distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802

Passing On The Spirit of the Revolution

The Lacombe Pig 2.0

Wine making in South Africa | Amanda LeNeve

Mary Bailey

Tales of the Cocktail Makers Meet the alchemists | Mary Bailey

Departments

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Beer Guy

The Lunch Lady

Feeding People

The Tomato Test Kitchen

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire

Wine Maven

Kitchen Sink

According to Judy

Beer by the book | Peter Bailey

Soccer mom | Cindy Lazarenko

Kick up the flavour: stocking your umami pantry | Morris Lemire

Making homemade pasta

Lynn Crawford, 2014 Hokanson Chef in Residence at NAIT

What’s new and notable

Break out the popcorn and put your feet up | Judy Schultz

Steve isn’t on the cover, but we thought you’d want to see a picture of the editor’s cat sitting pretty. Johwanna Alleyne (To Be In Pictures) took the cover pic: Caipirinha line-up at Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse.

Subscriptions are available for $25 per year.

thetomato.ca

The Tomato | May June 2014 3

ICS_3_4VertMarAd.pdf

3/20/14

8:31 PM

Perfectly placed to make fine wine and good friends.

R E S TAU R A N T

www.tinhorn.com

gastronomic happenings around town | be our guest Challenge the conventions of food, drink and hospitality at Host Edmonton, May 22-24. Local and international hospitality experts and chefs share tips, tricks, techniques, drinks and dishes, plus there are plenty of parties and tastings to fill out the rest of your plate. Go back to basics with Kevin Kossowan, build your culinary brand with Christine Cushing, get your Prud’homme beer certification, cook like a sexy Ukrainian with Brad Smoliak and discover new ways to pair wine and food with the Tomato’s own Mary Bailey. Tix, starting at $40, at hostedmonton.com. Don’t miss the kickoff featuring the Sheepdogs.

get grilling The newest ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen cookbook is now available. From the Grill features delicious recipes for the grill, including sides — we loved the kale and mango slaw — and a really great barbecue sauce, along with simple instructions and cooking tips from the Blue Flame Kitchen. Buy the book, $15, at atcoblueflamekitchen.com, or at Save-On-Foods, Safeway and Chapters/Indigo stores. Want a taste of From the Grill? Check out the recipe for braised pork tacos on page 10.

holy porkapalooza! Southern smoke meets big Alberta sky at Porkapalooza, Edmonton’s first southern barbecue championship, sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society (KCBS) with over $10,000 in prize money. There are many ways to enjoy Porkapalooza: enter a team; become an official KCBS BBQ judge; visit the Pro-Am Chefs Cook-off or the Porkaplooza Father’s Day Brunch, or just bring the family down for great food, music and fun. Featured are special guests Danielle Dimovski, the Diva Q from Travel and Escape’s BBQ Crawl and Brian Misko from House of Q. Visit porkapalooza.ca to enter a team for competition, sign up for the KCBS judging course or for tickets to the ProAm and the Father’s Day Brunch. Otherwise it’s come one come all to Hawrelak Park, June 14 and 15, from noon on.

never lose your wine again The practical and useful Wine Writer pen is ideal for claiming your wine glass, and much less irritating than a charm hanging off said glass — who can remember which charm belongs to whom anyway? The non-toxic ink writes on glass, ceramic, melamine and hard plastic, dries in about a minute, doesn’t smudge, and comes off with soap and water. The set of three pens is available in metallics or in soft multicolours, perfect for spring, just in time for wedding

dish

season. Terrific for cheese trays, or use on a buffet and to identify plant pots. Find the Wine Writer at Call the Kettle Black, the Pantree, Bella Casa and other fine housewares retailers. $13/set.

gold medal chefs Check out this stellar lineup for 2014 Gold Medal Plates: Shane Chartrand, Sage; Keoma Franceschi, Massimo’s Cucina Italiana; Andrew Fung, XIX Nineteen; Sachin Joshi, L2Grill; Brayden Kozak, Three Boars; Blair Lebsack, Rge Rd; Shane Loiselle, Daravara; Lindsay Porter, Mercer's Catering; Doreen Prei, Edmonton Petroleum Club; Ben Staley, North 53. Edmonton’s Gold Medal Plates competition heats up Thursday October 23. Funds raised support athletes in reaching the Olympic podium. For tickets and sponsorship information visit goldmedalplates.com.

barley is the new kale Want to eat more ancient grains but can’t think of anything to do with barley other than making soup? This new cookbook is for you; Go Barley, written by Pat Inglis and Linda Whitworth, has over 100 recipes featuring the nutritious grain in recipes from breakfast to dessert. Barley’s marvelous nutty flavour is put to good use in recipes ranging from apricot and barley-stuffed pork tenderloin to chocolatedipped almond biscotti. Yum! Go Barley, Touchwood Editions, $24.95.

see it in the city The next time you are wondering what to do tonight, check out SEETY NOW, seetynow.com, an innovative new website for entertainment and food. Seety Now has partnered with Gold Medal Plates judges, food writers and entertainment experts in Montreal, Winnipeg, and Edmonton. Vancouver and Calgary are coming soon. “We started Seety Now because everybody always asks, what to do tonight? says CT Duong, founder. “We are the one-stop shop for what’s happening today, not next week, not next season — cultural events, live music, concerts, sports, nightlife and dining carefully chosen by our team of experts. “Up until now if you were traveling, the only option really was Trip Advisor, but I want to discover the city as a local. Seety replaces that wooden box of pamphlets in the hotel lobby.” From top: Host Edmonton logo; ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen’s From The Grill; Inglis/Whitworth’s co-authored Go Barley; the amazing Wine Writer Pen; and the latest way to discover wazzup around town on your smart phone.

The Tomato | May June 2014 5

PA S S I N G O N T H E S P I R I T O F R E V O L U T I O N :

Winemaking in South Africa Amanda LeNeve

This page: Warwick Estate’s vineyards. Facing page: Alex Starey, Keermont Vineyards. Photos: Mauve Pagé (pageanddesign.com). We arrived in Cape Town within hours of Nelson Mandela’s death. My friend Mauve and I looked at each other in shock as we heard the news over the radio on the airport shuttle to our hotel. We knew our time in South Africa was going to be special for many reasons, but visiting the country at this particular time was truly serendipitous. As we spent the next four days immersing ourselves in South Africa’s Stellenbosch wine region, whether explicitly explained or subtly referenced, it’s clear that Mandela and the revolution he inspired was also integral in shaping South Africa’s wine identity. Though considered a new world wine region, wine has been made in South Africa since 1659 —

6 May June 2014 | The Tomato

February 2, to be exact. In his book, Wines of the New South Africa (University of California Press, 2013), Tim James references Dutch East India Company’s Jan van Riebeeck’s logbook entry on this day. “Today, God be praised, wine was pressed for the first time from Cape grapes… mostly Muscatel and other white, round grapes, very fragrant and tasty. These grapes, from three young vines planted two years ago, have yielded about 12 quarts of must, and we shall soon discover how it will be affected by maturing.” Fast forward to the 1970s, South Africa’s wine industry had grown significantly and was now primarily controlled by the Cooperative Winegrowers Association of South Africa

Limited (more commonly known as the KWV). Unfortunately, though the organization was started with good intentions, bureaucracy and power got the best of it, contributing to a breakdown in the winemaking community and an overall reduction in quality. Despite the tight controls the KWV placed on wine making, winemakers throughout South Africa were quietly coming together to learn, share and strive to make wine they were proud of. A new identity One of the players at this time was Edmonton-native Norma Ratcliffe, who was married to South African Stan Ratcliffe. The Ratcliffes purchased a farm north of the town of Stellenbosch called Warwick in 1964 and began

selling the grapes they grew to help pay their mortgage. “In the early days, we even grew vegetables and brought them to market — we needed the money to help pay our mortgage,” Norma explained. “When we paid off our mortgage in 1984, we produced our first wine. We made some money and we built a little winery and we continued to build it piece by piece as we had the money to do it.” At the time, Norma was the first female winemaker in South Africa with her own estate. For their first vintage in 1984, the Ratcliffes’ made a 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, but they thought Bordeaux-style blends could work well for the Stellenbosch region.

“My husband and I had been to Bordeaux and we thought that would be the way to go here. So, in the late 70s we planted Cabernet Franc and Merlot. In ‘84 we bottled 100 per cent Cabernet [Sauvignon], which was a great hit. In ‘85 we did a Bordeaux blend and in ’88, we bottled our first Cabernet Franc as a varietal — we were kind of the leaders in that.” A few other producers had the same idea and were also developing Bordeaux blends. “It was just starting, but people were starting to use new French oak barrels to raise the quality. So, we started importing barrels in ‘84 — it made the difference, but then it was about learning how to handle wood and wine, which is a whole other thing.” Though the Ratcliffes and many other South African winemakers at the time were pushing the boundaries, trying new things and producing high quality wines, Apartheid isolated South African product from the international wine market. But on February 11, 1990, that all changed. “When they let Mandela out of jail, it changed everything because then we were able to export. From that day, people were swarming, running around and looking for agencies.” Warwick’s first exports were to Germany. Today, they still have the same importer to that country. Warwick now exports about 35 per cent of the wine they produce to 22 countries, including Canada. Norma is now mostly retired from active participation at Warwick. Her son, Mike, runs the business, yet she continues to be an active and iconic member of the South African wine community.

Authentic Italian flavors with a modern twist. Everything local, fresh and made in house. Open Tuesday – Friday: 11.30 am – 2.00 pm Keermont is nestled in hills of the Blaauwklippen Valley south of Stellenbosch. With vineyards planted on steep mountain slopes, it’s clear that Alex and farm owner Mark Wraith have a keen interest in expressing their unique location and its terroir in the wines they produce. “It’s our aim to guide the grapes through the cellar and out the door without actually putting too much of a thumb print on it,” Alex explained as he drove the farm’s Land Rover up the vineyard’s steep and rocky roads past beautiful prehistoric-looking protea. “We have fantastic vineyards, so the purer the wine, the older the barrel we use — that sort of thing — the better the wine actually tastes to me.” Like many other young South African winemakers, Alex has been influenced by time spent working with winemakers in other parts of the world, including the northern Rhone’s Côte-Rôtie, Spain and Chile.

The next generation More than 20 years removed from Apartheid times, the next generation of winemakers are doing their part in reinventing what it means to make wine in South Africa.

“It showed me that I don’t have to obey these rules that everyone’s been playing by. South Africans and the courses I took at the university teach a very conservative approach to winemaking. When you start working with Europeans, it blows your mind.

Alex Starey of Keermont Vineyards is one of them.

“Quite a few young producers in South Africa now are interested

in breaking the norm and doing things a little bit out of the box. “People are starting to think about what they can do differently — ferment in eggs, use foudre or age the wine under water. I like that. I think there’s a big revolution happening, in a way. And, the export industry is really looking for that.”

Tuesday – Saturday: 5.00 pm – 10.00 pm

780-757-2426 cibobistro.com 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square)

As Alex talked about his friends and the different things they’re doing to raise the level of wines produced here, I was reminded of my discussion with Norma Ratcliffe a few days earlier. She spoke fondly of her early days making wine and her community of winemakers trying to challenge what it meant to make wine in this country. Alex and his friends are now doing the same and are driving each other to experiment and challenge convention. It’s an exciting time for South African wine. Before visiting this beautiful country, I didn’t spend much time in the South Africa section at the wine store. But, Alex, Norma and the many others we spoke to on our visit have changed my mind. I’m looking forward to a long life drinking South African wine. Amanda LeNeve holds the WSET Advanced Certificate and, since returning from South Africa, she can’t stop thinking about proteas, Chenin Blanc and Land Rovers.

The Tomato | May June 2014 7

The Lacombe Pig 2.0 Mary Bailey

Over 50 years ago, Canadian scientists working at Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada’s Lacombe Research Centre developed the Lacombe pig. It was the first and so far, only, Canadian breed developed and used commercially for pork production. Now, few companies use those genetics. They use international breeds, because tastes have changed. We no longer want a super lean product. In fact, cuts like pork belly have become the flavour du jour and processors are scrambling to keep up with the demand. Manuel Juárez is the livestock phenomics scientist heading up a three year research project involving the Lacombe pig, one that will help commercial producers gain a fighting chance in the brave new world of global agriculture. He works out of the same Lacombe Research Centre and his work is not unlike what the scientists did over two generations ago. More high tech perhaps, but the aim remains the same, to create a high quality pig that will help Canadian producers compete now. “This is a large project, three years in different phases,” says Manuel. “This project started because most Canadian pork doesn’t

8 May June 2014 | The Tomato

compete on differentation (quality and features) only on price, as a commodity. But the price of raising hogs keeps going up, and producers weren’t getting more money for their product. Many pork producers quit.” Commodity pricing means that cheaper pork can come from other countries. For the consumer it’s cheap and convenient. “Why should Canadians eat more Canadian pork if the quality and experience is the same? You must have another reason besides it’s Canadian. This is what we are looking for, to create a product that is different, healthier, tastier, better for you.” The producers that thrive are those who understand they have to offer something other than price, and find niche markets for their superior products. “There are several producers that market high quality, noncommodity pork in specific niche markets and make money,” says Manuel. “There are financial models for different products — we need to be able to go to the producers and say ‘this production system may lead to some extra costs, but you can also make more money for your product.’ We have to create alliances to market it, and we need something different to market. Think of it this way— several brands now offer antibiotic and hormone free meat; this didn’t exist few years ago. It costs more

to produce, the consumer wants it, and is paying more for it. “I come from Spain, where we are known for the Iberian black pig. We have commodity pork as well, but the black pig is different because of better taste and traditional attributes. In Spain, the differentiation is based on many things, some traditional psychological factors such as humane conditions, especially living outside eating acorns which has a positive impact on quality. The diet increases the oleic acid in the fat, making it closer to olive oil in composition, and more liquid. The taste is very different as well and highly regarded. In short, the fat has less saturated fat. We are mimicking that effect by feeding the pigs in the trial canola, also flax to increase the omega-3. “We’re evaluating 648 pigs in three years. It’s funded by ALMA, with many other partners, and it’s being done here in Lacombe with interest from producers and processors across the country. “We have started with Large White×Landrace females bred to Duroc, Lacombe and Iberian. “Lacombe is a lean, fast growing breed; Iberian is a rustic breed known for high intra- muscular marbling, but slower growth rates. The Duroc is the industry standard for balance between performance and quality traits.

”These three breeds are not genetically linked and we control by gender as well. Three diets, one is control based on what industry is doing now; one is high oleic acid (canola).The third diet has flax which increases omega-3. And we are experimenting with slaughter weights, chilling methods, moisture enhancement and ageing times to see what is the difference in the end result. The interactions among all these factors have not been evaluated in such a controlled way before. We have set up analyses of growth rate, digestibility of the different diets, carcass and meat quality and analysis of the fatty acid composition. “After slaughter, we do the dissection of the whole carcass, to find out the composition of the loins, hams and shoulders. One part of the carcass that we pay a lot of attention to is the belly. Nowadays, the belly is very important for the packers. We can never have two much bacon — if we could have pigs with two bellies we would be happy. “We have a sensory panel that evaluates on taste and we have reached out to people like Brad Smoliak to help us with the taste and performance evaluations. “We’re almost finished. We have to do some analyses and will have some preliminary results by this summer. We’ll be making

a presentation at the Banff Pork Seminar 2015. “So far we’re seeing differences in colour, fat content and flavour. We’re not seeing any performance issues from the different diets, the animals are not growing more slowly, which the producers will like.“ Brad Smoliak has been incorporating the meats into his menus at Kitchen by Brad. What does the chef think? “Outstanding, really good flavour,” says Brad. “The meat is richer, meatier, more savoury with a more pronounced pork flavour but without porkiness. One of the biggest things is the colour of the Iberian cross; it almost looks like beef. Once cooked it’s not that noticeable, more like chicken thigh, but it’s not that pale pork. The shoulders were amazing, the

fat just melted into the meat, more marbling creates a tremendous texture. It was a softer fat, melted really quickly in the mouth, creating a good mouth feel. Tasted like pork buddah, delicious. “The scientists were great to work with and the product for lack of a better word was like old- fashioned style pork. The response from our guests was very positive. “I’d pay extra for this pork. You have to taste it, some might be deterred by the fat they can see but that is what makes it taste so good. “It’s like Irvings on a bigger scale, there should be more project like this on all types of food. Why can’t we get veal?” Pork lover Mary Bailey is the editor of The Tomato.

FR O M T HE

Pork Recipes

The mild flavour and pleasing texture of pork has many culinary uses. The key is using the right cut for the dish. Pork tenderloin is lean, almost pure protein and lends itself to quick cooking. Pork shoulder on the other hand, with its higher fat levels and ample connective tissue, is best for low and slow cooking or braising.

rigatoni with pork and porcini ragu “This is a perfect Sunday ragu. You could substitute pork shoulder for pork cheeks. You could also use red wine for a deeper and richer ragu but I think the white wine allows the pure pork flavour to shine.” Daniel Costa, corso 32/Bar Bricco ½ c dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and soaked in hot water for 5 minutes, then chopped into a small dice 2lb boneless pork shoulder, cut into very small pieces about ½ inch x ½ inch ¼ c

olive oil

Our newest cookbook is now available! A sizzling collection of recipes from appetizers to sweet treats.

Order your copy today! atcoblueflamekitchen.com or call 1.800.840.3393

150 g pancetta, small dice 1

yellow onion, small dice

carrots, small dice

celery stalks, small dice

4 cloves

whole garlic

8 leaves

fresh sage

1 btl

dry white wine

2 T

tomato paste

kosher salt

black pepper

500g (1 lb bag) rigatoni or other short dried pasta 1 T

unsalted butter

¼ c grated Parmigiano Reggiano Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat.

Please see “Pork Recipes” on page 10

The Tomato | May June 2014 9

pork recipes

Preheat oven to 325°F.

squeeze

lemon juice

Continued from page 9

Place lemon juice, orange juice, vinegar, garlic, jalapeno, allspice, pepper and cloves in a blender; blend until combined. Set lemon juice mixture aside. Sprinkle pork with salt.

zest of

one small orange

juice of ½ small orange

½ c

panko crumbs

1 t

sea or kosher salt

1 t

fresh-cracked pepper

Add the pork and pancetta. Season with salt and pepper, fry for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. Add the porcini, carrot, celery, onion, whole cloves of garlic and sage, cook for 10 minutes or until golden. Add the tomato paste, cook for 1 minute, stir frequently. Add the white wine, cook for 2 minutes. Add enough water to just cover the pork. Lower the heat to low/medium or until simmering. Place a lid on the pot, cook for about 1½ hours until tender, stir occasionally. Season to taste with salt and pepper, remove whole garlic cloves and allow the ragu to rest for 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until almost al dente or about 1 minute prior to package instructions. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. Strain the pasta and add it to the pot of ragu, return to high heat, add a splash of pasta cooking water and cook for 1 minute or until the ragu is just coating the pasta, stir frequently. Remove the pasta from the heat, stir in the cheese and butter. Serve with a little extra grated Parmigiano and a drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil. Serves 4-6

braised pork tacos From the Grill by the ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen ½ c

fresh lemon juice

½ c

orange juice

½ c

pure white vinegar

6 cloves

garlic, chopped

1 jalapeno pepper, halved, seeded and chopped 1 t

ground allspice

1 t

freshly ground pepper

¼ t

ground cloves

2 lb (1 kg) boneless pork shoulder roast, cut into 2-inch cubes

Heat oil in a non-reactive ovenproof Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add pork and brown on all sides. Add lemon juice mixture and broth; stir to combine. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Bake, covered, for 2 hours or until pork is fork tender. Transfer pork to a cutting board, reserving broth mixture. When cool enough to handle, use two forks to shred pork. Transfer pork to a serving dish and cover with foil; set aside. To prepare sauce, pour broth mixture into a small non-reactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until liquid is reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

Oil the tenderloin, then place in a small roasting pan. Pat the parsley mixture over the tenderloin and let sit until room temperature. Place in preheated oven and cook until internal temperature reaches 155ºF, about 2025 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for about 10 minutes. Slice and spoon the reserved fresh gremolata over. Serve with new potatoes and roasted asparagus. Serves 4.

country style pork and chicken liver terrine Brayden Kozak, Three Boars

Fold tortillas in half. Makes 8.

1 kg

ground pork

500g

chicken liver, veins removed

onion, brunoise

* Find the recipes for guacamole with cilantro and patio pico de gallo in From the Grill.

1 T

grapeseed oil

1 head

garlic, crushed

25 g

kosher salt

roasted pork tenderloin with hazelnut gremolata

3 g

black pepper, ground

0.5 g

mace, ground

0.5 g

nutmeg, ground

1 g

coriander, ground

Gremolata, a blend of lemon, parsley and garlic, lends freshness and colour to rich braised dishes such as osso buco. This version brings flavour and moisture to lean pork tenderloin, and cooking it with the pork softens the garlic and adds a roasted nutty flavour. Reserve about ¼ cup of raw gremolata to garnish the sliced tenderloin.

0.5 g

powdered ginger

1 pork tenderloin (about ½ lb)

salt

1 t

olive or canola oil

2 T

canola oil

1 c

hazelnuts

3 c

chicken broth

1 sml bunch parsley

flour tortillas (8 inch)

2 cloves

10 May June 2014 | The Tomato

Heat oven to 350ºF.

Place shredded pork over one side of each tortilla, dividing equally. Top pork with sauce, cheese, guacamole with cilantro* and the pico de gallo*

¼ t

shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Whiz all ingredients in a food processor or chop and blend by hand.

garlic

1 t lemon zest (approx ½ small lemon)

1 head Italian parsley, finely chopped 2 eggs ½ c

whipping cream

Preheat oven to 325F. In a food processor, combine ground pork and chicken livers until smooth. Transfer to large mixing bowl. Heat oil in a frying pan, add onions and garlic. Saute until translucent. Transfer to a small bowl and place in fridge until completely cool. Add cooled onion and garlic, salt, spices and chopped parsley to meat mixture. Mix together using a wooded spoon.

In a small mixing bowl, whisk together eggs and whipping cream. Fold mixture into the meat mixture until homogenous. Line one bread loaf pan with plastic wrap and fill with the meat mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and then a layer of aluminum foil. Cook in a water bath for approx 3 hours or until an internal temperature of 140F. Remove from water bath and refrigerate for at least 12 hours until serving. Makes 1 small loaf sized terrine, approx 15 portions.

cibo porchetta “I love using pork belly because of the fat to meat ratio. The finished product is always so moist and flavourful. Acme Meats always has amazing pork belly. To serve, we shave it extremely thinly and finish with shaved radish, pickled scapes, Italian parsley, celery leaf, drizzled with a good quality extra-virgin olive oil.” Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro 1

pork belly with skin on

2 T

chopped garlic

2 sprigs

rosemary, chopped

1 bunch

Italian parsley, chopped

1 c

fennel fronds, chopped

1/3

c toasted, then ground fennel seed

½ c

salt

1/3

ground black pepper

2 T

olive oil

Score the top layer of the skin with a sharp knife. Combine chopped herbs and spices (leave 2 t salt and 1 T pepper to the side for cooking) and rub the inside of the belly covering the entire surface. Roll and tie pork belly with twine and store in refrigerator, wrapped in plastic for 24 hours. Preheat oven to 275ºF, pull pork belly out and drizzle oil over the scored skin. Rub the oiled skin with remaining salt and pepper and place in oven on a baking sheet for 1 and a half hours at 275ºF. Then turn oven up to 500ºF and blast the pork belly on high for 30-45 minutes until the skin puffs up and has a golden crisp. Remove from oven and rest uncovered for 30 minutes. Serves 25-30 as part of a charcuterie board.

Adapted from Jamie Oliver Cooks at Home. Rhubarb is such a harbinger of spring, easy to find in backyards, back alleys and farmers markets this time of year. Rarely do we use it in savoury ways, yet its freshness and hit of acidity are perfect for savoury dishes. Jamie Oliver’s recipe calls for pork belly. We used shoulder chops, easy to find on most meat counters and well-priced.

marinade 8-10 stalks rhubarb (about 400 g) 4 T

liquid Alberta honey

4 T

soy sauce

4 cloves

garlic, peeled

2 fresh red chiles, halved and deseeded 1 t

five-spice powder

1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

pork 3-4

pork shoulder chops

sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper

too thin, simmer on the stove-top over gentle heat until reduced to the consistency of ketchup. Check for seasoning, adding soy sauce if necessary. Remove from heat and reserve. Put a pot of salted water on to boil. Place a wok on the heat and pour in oil. When the oil is hot, add pork in batches to the wok and fry for a few minutes until crispy and golden. At the same time, drop noodles into the boiling water and cook for a few minutes, then pull out and drop into warmed bowls immediately, while still moist. Spoon rhubarb sauce over the noodles. Divide crispy pork on top, and add onions, chiles, greens, coriander and lime wedges. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

cuban pork roast Brad Smoliak, kitchen by Brad 2 lb

pork loin

Italian dressing

1 T

hot sauce

1 T

seasoning salt

canola oil

1 t

black pepper

375 g

medium egg noodles

1 t

cumin

4 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced

2 T

lime juice

2 fl oz

orange juice

1 fresh red chile, deseeded and finely sliced

2 T

oil

2 T

vinegar

1-2 bunches fresh greens such as arugula, watercress, small

J U N E 1 4 , 2 0 1 4

hot and sour rhubarb with crispy pork noodle

Join us for a spectacular tasting that features a dazzling array of whiskies from around the world,

3 limes

Mix all of the ingredients together, and let the roast marinate over night in a Ziploc bag. Roast in a 325 degree oven for about 45 minutes to 1 hour or until internal temperature reaches 155 degrees. Serve with Mojo sauce.

Preheat the oven to 350°F

mojo sauce

For tickets, please call: 780.432.2258, email: wsevents@calgarycoop.com or purchase online at coopwinespiritsbeer.com

leaf spinach or a spring mix 1 bunch

fresh coriander

Put pork pieces in a roasting pan. Pulse marinade ingredients in a food processor until it’s a smooth paste. Pour over the pork, adding a cup or so of water. Mix thoroughly to coat the pork in the marinade. Cover pan tightly with tinfoil and place in the preheated oven for about an hour and 30 minutes, until the meat is tender, but not turning brown. Take the pork out of the pan and reserve. If the sauce remaining is

chopped garlic

1 t

salt

½ c

olive oil

½ t

ground cumin

¼ c

white vinegar

¼ c

orange juice

¼ t

oregano

1/8

black pepper

cognacs and gourmet dinner.

NORTHLANDS EXPO CENTRE, ALBERTA BALLROOM To avoid disappointment, buy your tickets early. $100 for general admission

Mix together well, and let come to room temperature before serving with pork. Serves 6-8.

6-9 pm

general admission

$150 for VIP admission which

includes a guided tasting with experts, exclusive products to sample and early entry.

4 -9 pm

VIP admission

The Tomato | May June 2014 11

Tales of the Cocktail Makers Mary Bailey

Two moments in recent cocktail history; the invention of the Caesar in Calgary 1969, and the introduction of the Cosmopolitan in 1986. Who knew a spicy tomato clam vodka mixture would be so enduring? Who knew a TV show could vault the sales of pomegranate juice into the stratosphere? A few years ago I was in a cocktail lounge in Portland, several actually, that had no vodka on the back bar — none. Instead it was gin, various tequilas, rums and lots of dark spirit, bourbon, scotch and American rye. Bars in Edmonton have several vodkas in the well, after all, the Caesar remains a perfectly delicious classic drink, especially the incarnations at the Confederation Lounge and Tavern 1903. Yet, the cocktail scene in our town is undergoing a tremendous revolution. Brimming with craft spirits, aromatized wines, various bitters, house-made syrups, sodas and tonic, the back bar is now a hotbed of creativity and innovation. The bartender presides over it all, the alchemist of flavour.

12 May June 2014 | The Tomato

Andrew Borley, Woodwork

One of the first glimmers of Edmonton’s nascent cocktail scene was the custom cocktail duo called the Volstead Act, Andrew Borley and Jeremy Bowe. Andrew has gone on to open Woodwork, a restaurant devoted to all things wood, whether that be meat cooked over wood or whiskey aged in the barrel. “The things that are always important to us are good spirits, and we’re super serious about ice,“ says Andrew. “We have a cold draft machine, the Cadillac of ice machines, which we use to make large ice for Old Fashioneds and Manhattans. We also freeze 30-40 pound pieces of ice, and we break it up on the bar. It’s like ice performance art. During the night someone will be cracking the ice; they break it cleanly and applause breaks out. “We’ve been bridging the gap between winter and spring with drinks like our take on the Dark and Stormy. We’re making this version with the Gosling Family

Reserve Rum, a beautiful sipping rum we don’t want to lengthen with soda. The other thing we’re doing right now is playing with different kinds of acidity, which is good with limes being worth their weight in gold. For example, the ginger/apple shrub. We put fresh ginger in apple cider vinegar so you get this fresh ginger flavour and acidity from the vinegar, not citrus, then finish with a bit of Cocchi Americano vermouth. We call it Big Shrubble in little China.

“I’m impressed with how little we have to convince people to try what we are doing; our customers have put their trust in us. “Our most popular drink this winter was the Woodwork House Sour. We make it with Buffalo Trace, which is a rye-forward bourbon, spicy with nice fruity notes but not too sweet. Instead of sugar we use a Lapsang Souchong honey cordial, an homage to all the smoked things our kitchen is doing. Then we finish it by torching a bit of ovenproof rum with Angostura bitters — it tastes great and we get to light things on fire.”

let’s stay friends

This straight-up drink is based on a classic cocktail called The Old Pal. “This is a more bitter and cynical acquaintance, tasting somewhere between a Negroni and a Manhattan,” Andrew Borley, Woodwork. 1½ oz

Bulliet rye

¾ oz

Punt a Mes

½ oz

Cynar

¼ oz

Cherry Heering

Build over ice in a tall glass and garnish with a brandied cherry. Makes one cocktail.

Brendan Brewster, north 53

Brendan Brewster has been bartending since the late ‘90s. You may recognize him from the Manor Café, where he worked with Tarquin Melnyk. He’s a friendly, calm presence at the long North 53 bar and clearly excited about every drink he makes. Recently he competed in Calgary’s Art of the Cocktail, placing third overall.

“I call myself a bartender. A mixologist designs drinks but if you tend bar and take care of people you are a bartender. The social side is important, people are guests at the bar, never a customer, and I am responsible for them. It’s a public space and the bartender sets the tone and guides that public space.

“Yet, I love making simple, classic drinks, letting the ingredients shine. You can’t hide in a three ingredient drink — with only rum, lime juice and a little bit of sugar, a proper daiquiri is amazing.”

“Ours is a craft that’s earning respect again. Between 1860-1920 bartenders were like rock stars. Jerry Thomas, who wrote the first bartending book, was better known at the time than the vice president.

1½ oz Aviation gin (has notes of lavender and violets)

lavender lemonade

¾ oz

house-made lavender syrup

¾ oz

lemon juice fresh squeezed

¼ oz

Bitter Truth violet liqueur

“My current passion? I’m working a lot with gin for spring and Calvados is always a passion of mine. From the spring menu: Lavender Lemonade and the Prairie Berry Bramble, made with sea buckthorn berries, native to Alberta with a citrusy pineapple flavour.

dash

Scrappy’s Lavender Bitters

“I’m also experimenting with several low-proof cocktails made with vermouth and sherry as Edmonton is so car-centric.

Tavern 1903 enlisted the help of Tarquin Melnyk, a familiar face to many cocktail fans, to create its drinks program. Tarquin had founded the High Street Social Club, the centre of cocktail frivolity, before decamping to Calgary last year. Tarquin’s brief at Tavern? Build a cocktail program based on fresh herbs and juices. He developed the drinks, trained the staff and pops in from Calgary occasionally to see how everyone is doing. Tarquin was also one of the Winter City Signature Drink judges along with Andrew Borley and Chuck Elves.

Above from far left to right: Oscar Lopez (Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse); Ramon Miranda (corso 32); Andrew Borley (Woodwork); Chuck Elves (Three Boars); Brendan Brewster (north 53); and Josh Turner (Tavern 1903).

Host Cocktail Moments

Spirited Dinners and Clash of the Cocktails hostedmonton.com

Shake, then double strain into a champagne flute, and top with soda.

Tarquin Melnyk cocktail impresario

Tavern features 20 custom cocktails with the Old Fashioned being the number one seller according to bartender Josh Turner. Josh’s favourite drink to make is the Desert Shrub, a blend of reposado tequila shaken with fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice and house-made Thai basil syrup, strained into a cocktail glass and finished with Riversanti Prosecco. The other big hit at Tavern? Tarragon Lemonade, a refreshing drink for summer, made with Tanqueray, fresh lemon juice and fresh tarragon.

Ramon Miranda, corso 32

“I’ve always been interested in cocktails, professionally in the last five or six years. At Red Ox, whenever someone wanted a classic cocktail I would make it. Bartending is a good creative outlet, and I like watching people enjoy the drink I made.

“Our customers are saavy to have a vermouth before dinner and amaros, grappas or things like Fernet Branca after dinner, so it’s not a stretch to introduce a sour made with grappa for example. Our guests welcome these. “Our spring summer menu will have more long sippers, refreshing, carbonated, and I’m using herbs in some drinks as well, to highlight what’s growing. I’m using rosemary and green tomatoes infused in gin and white vermouth. “Sometimes people are having just cocktails with dinner, no wine at all. That’s a challenge to make something that will match the food. For example, if they are having a heavy cream-based sauce I could suggest a sidecar, it’s beautiful acidity would cut through like wine.”

corso reverse martini

“What’s exciting about creating drinks at corso is that I’m challenged to use unique Italian aperitivos, grappas, and digestifs. Our list is inspired by classic drinks but elevated by the high quality of these Italian ingredients.

“The rosemary garnish plays on the herbaceous quality of the vermouth, and it’s a bit milder than a gin-heavy martini.” Ramon Miranda.

“For example, the big ingredient that people are using now are high-quality artisan vermouths like Carpani Antica and Cocchi Americano, the original Italian formulas, back in style and available to us now.

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass, garnish with fresh rosemary.

2 parts

Cocchi Americano vermouth

2 parts

gin

Makes one drink

Please see “Cocktails” on page 14

The Tomato | May June 2014 13

cocktails Continued from page 13

Oscar Lopez Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse MAKE YOUR RESERVATIONS AT

THREEBOARS.CA

Oscar Lopez, founder of Pampa Brazilian Steak House, thinks Pampa is the place to be during FIFA World Cup month, June 12 until July 13. “Our intention is to show all of the games live, particularly at 10 am, 1 and 3pm, in a private room with traditional Brazilian barbecue and drinks, and weather permitting, on our new patio. It’s a perfect match. We have a flair bartender, Raj with several years experience flair bartending in the Middle East. We are actually buying him a mobile bar so he can be on the patio, at the food truck or in the private room during World Cup action.”

Chuck Elves, Three Boars Eatery

“I started my journey in coffee, where I learned the value of craft and doing things well and the difference it makes. Then I went to the Sugarbowl, beer is huge there, I started to learn about that. Then getting into whiskey, and cocktails, trying things out at the Bowl and at my home bar. “At first the focus at Three Boars was on beer and whiskey. We thought let’s throw a few cocktails on the menu.

What will he be making? Caipirinhas of course! What makes a great Caipirinha?

“My current exploration? Mescal is very interesting. It’s an unaged white spirit but with so much depth and character, really smoky earth and fruity. A lot more tequila and mescal are now available and they are new to people so there is curiosity and excitement there.

“It’s the essence of the fresh fruit, the unique taste of the sugar cane liquor and the fact that it’s handmuddled with refined white sugar.

“We’ve been playing with cold brew coffee and mescal. The big thing for me is to start with good things — that’s what cocktails are all about

“It’s all about technique and freshness and the right ingredients, the right type of cacaçha. You want a high quality white cacaçha with a light undertone of the sugar cane liquor flavour. Aged spirits are good for sipping but not for Caipirinha.”

caipirinha 1 2 T 2 oz

lime, cut into 8 wedges sugar cacaçha

Muddle 4 wedges lime and sugar into a juicy slurry. Add cacaçha and ice and shake well for about 15 seconds. Pour into a rocks glass filled with ice and remaining lime. Pampa makes 12 different versions, the classic fresh lime, and several fresh fruit variations, passion fruit, watermelon, berries and a pomegranate red chile combo. “The blackberry raspberry lime is our number two after lime; the passion fruit/citrus is very Brazilian, and we make a dessert caipirinha with banana and 14 May June 2014 | The Tomato

cinnamon. I can’t think of another restaurant anywhere that makes 12 different styles and features too, like the gooseberry lime honey.”

“One thing everyone complains about is the weather but I love the seasonal reality of Edmonton. In the winter we drink more dark beers, more whiskey, more hot drinks, more heavy, intense, spicy flavours. Now we’re focusing on summer — lighter, fresher, more fruits, herbs, more cocktails with bubbles. “Cocktails raise the respect of alcohol. They force you to pay attention, it’s not just a let’sget-drunk-shots-and-highballs mentality. I find cocktails very culinary. You can fine tune a drink, or tailor on the fly. The balance and complexity of the cocktail creates a good connection between the people and their drink and bartender. There’s a real social interaction that you don’t get with other things. “My motto in life now is start with things that are delicious, and don’t eff it up.” Mary Bailey's favourite cocktail is a Negroni, or maybe an Aperol Spritz, no wait....

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beer guy | peter bailey Beer by the book The first rule of book club is you do not talk about book club. The second rule of book club is you DO NOT talk about book club. Well, the book club I’m talking about is as much a beer club as a book club, so I’ll bend the rules. In 2001, Cliff Therou and a group of guys scribbled some book titles on a beer coaster at the Black Dog Freehouse. Unlike other great ideas scrawled on beer coasters, this plan actually came to life. Perhaps it’s the cozy venue, a loft with wood-burning stove in a garage. Possibly it’s the dual focus on good beer and good books. Maybe it’s the easygoing group of guys. But Cliff’s Garage Book Club continues meeting over a dozen years later. I was honoured to be invited earlier this year. Beers are matched to books each month. Recently the club read Joseph Boyden’s The Orenda, a beautiful, bloody tale of the 17th century Huron-Iroquois wars and the tortuous death of missionary Jean de Brébeuf. I paired The Orenda with Trou du Diable’s La Buteuse, a Trappiststyle tripel named after Jesuit missionary Jacques Buteux, killed by the Iroquois like Brébeuf. Cliff remembers other brilliant pairings, like Indian beer with Rohinton Mistry’s A Fine Balance and a legendary evening of Ethiopian food and homebrew with special guest Camilla Gibb and her Africaset novel Sweetness in the Belly. One cold night this past winter Rhône wine was added to the mix when Todd Babiak stopped by with his France-set thriller Come Barbarians. Generally, book clubs are the province of women and wine rather

16 May June 2014 | The Tomato

than boys and beer. Most fiction in Canada is purchased, and one presumes, read by women. As a librarian I despair when I hear men sniff and sneer, “Oh, I only read non-fiction.” Is reading a Cormac McCarthy novel unmanly or something? Ridiculous. So it has been a goal of mine to bring men back to books, back to libraries. And beer is one way to do that. Books and beers may seem an unlikely pairing. Certainly beer has been considered an enemy to reason: “Sorry, it was the beer talking last night.” But it is words and books that have brought many people to beer in the past few decades. Beginning with his 1977 book, The World Guide to Beer, the late, great beer writer, Michael Jackson changed how we think about beer and helped usher in the craft beer revolution. Now beer is returning the favour, bringing people to books. Green Drinks Edmonton brings people together on a theme, like April’s sold-out Local Literature night. Held at the Yellowhead Brewery, I think beer is key to their success. Most libraries dropped their no eating or drinking rules years ago as they evolved into vibrant community hubs. Some libraries use beer in their programming, like Kingston Public Library’s Books & Beers book club at Portsmouth Tavern. I do beer tastings at my library and love to see men who may have not been to a library in awhile show up. This year I will do a beer session at the Alberta Library Conference in Jasper. My goal is to re-imagine S. R. Ranganathan’s famous Third Law of Library Science, “Every book its reader”, as Bailey’s Beer Maxim: “Every beer its drinker”.

Beer by the book six pack The best towns are beer towns, and more often than not, beer towns are also book towns. And sometimes baseball and band (music scene) towns. Six beers from six bookish, beerish towns.

Fuller's India Pale Ale, London In 19th century London, Charles Dickens was cranking out novels and brewers were shipping pumped up pale ales to India. IPA died out in the 20th century, to be reinvented by American craft beer pioneers. Coming full circle, British brewers like Fuller’s are creating IPAs in the traditional English mode, milder, balanced and refreshing.

Brooklyn Lager, Brooklyn Brooklyn Brewing co-founder Steve Hindy said, “When we started with Brooklyn Lager a lot of people spit it out. They said, “It’s dark, it’s bitter. Why don’t you make a beer like Heineken?” A radical when it launched in 1988, this dark, malty, dryhopped Vienna lager is now a classic.

Anchor Liberty Ale, San Francisco Birthplace of the Beats, home to City Lights bookstore, San Francisco is also where the craft beer revolution began. In 1983 Anchor brewed their annual Christmas Ale with then littleknown American Cascade hops. The hoppy, bitter beer proved a hit, was re-named Liberty Ale, and became the model for the many American pale ales that followed.

Hopworks Rise-Up Red, Portland We know Portland as beervana for its incredible local beer abundance, but the City of Roses also boasts Powell’s City of Books and the best public library in the U.S. Hopworks is Portlandia personified; quirky, organic and bicycleobsessed. At 60 IBUs, this American amber ale is hopped enough to balance the sweet caramel malt.

Elysian Dragonstooth Stout, Seattle Seattle is a UNESCO City of Literature candidate, home to a spectacular Rem Koolhaas-designed library and a craft brew capital. A relatively new entry into the vibrant beer scene, Elysian Brewing began as a brewpub in 1995. Their imperial oatmeal stout is silky smooth, tasting of bitter cocoa and roasted malt.

Parallel 49 HayFever Spring Saison, Vancouver The endless grey days of a Vancouver winter are perfect for reading (and writing) books and brewing beer. New breweries are popping up like spring crocuses in Van, including Parallel 49, located in hip and happening East Vancouver. Saison is the style du jour, and this one is very nice – fruity and earthy with a hearty kick. The Ghostbusters advised against it, but Peter Bailey often crosses the streams (of books and beer). Follow him on Twitter as @Libarbarian. The Tomato | May June 2014 17

the lunch lady

| cindy lazarenko

Soccer mom Happy spring! Time to put the snow suits away, the winter boots, the mitts and the gloves. During this long cold winter our family got into the spirit of our winter city; we skied, we skated and snowboarded, we tobogganed and made good use of our newly acquired snowshoes. Light Up The City, Flying Canoe Festival, and Deep Freeze, all fairly frosty events, no problem. The power of family meals has nourished and connected us all winter long. In the kitchen we shared slow-cooked meals of hearty casseroles and heavy meats. We ate legs of lamb, bison short ribs, beef stews and chili; roasted chicken, braised pork, potatoes and sauerkraut. Now, we’re ready for the afterschool scramble that is soccer season.

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18 May June 2014 | The Tomato

This is a familiar season for most parents of school-aged children; we have two girls who will play two games a week each as well as weekend practices for the whole month of May and most of June. When soccer season rolls around we give up our routines of setting the table, lighting a candle or two, preparing home-cooked dinners, and sitting together. Why? There’s no time! We are forever searching for missing soccer socks. It always surprises me that I can go to work each day and happily prepare food for 75 or so students and still come home most days with an equally enthusiastic desire to make dinner for my family. However, during soccer season I switch gears, and occasionally entertain the idea of eating fast food. No, not McDonalds and Tim Hortons. There are plenty of little independent and convenient places around that offer tasty and healthy alternatives to typical fast food. One Saturday afternoon last May, after a cold and windy day on the field, many of the players and parents ended up at Sunbake Pita.

My family has been going regularly ever since. The spinach and feta pita seemed to be the favourite with the kids, while I can’t resist the simply delicious za’atar spiced fresh vegetable pita. There’s cheese pie, shawarma and fatayers (Arab meat pie). The roasted nut bar and the small but pleasing selection of cheeses, yogurts and drinks make it easy to stock up on car snacks and impromptu picnic items. The Italian Centre is a pre-game must for their ever-popular panini sandwich. They have a beverage selection like no other, fruit, mini cucumbers, or why not make a quick salad? I’ve been known to grab a container of arugula, some dried cranberries, pine nuts and cheese and open up my catering toolbox for sea salt, balsamic vinegar and good extra virgin olive oil. Now all we have to do is head to the Giovanni Caboto Park across the street, say hello to Mr. Spinelli (the lifesize statue – we always pay our respects) then dig into our picnic. Or, I picture myself eating a nice big bowl of posole, pork and hominy stew at Café del Sol on one of the cold and rainy game evenings, of which there are sure to be a few. We also love their chipotle chicken tacos with a nice cold Jarrito to wash it down. On those joyous occasions where our team has played well (or if some cheering up is required), a post-soccer treat is in order. In our neighbourhood we visit Mandolin Books and Coffee. They sell mini cups of Pinocchio ice cream, freshlybaked pastry and cookies and hot and cold drinks of all kinds. If we’re lucky, we’ll find a seat on the patio at the back of the shop. For some reason, it took me a few years of living in Highlands to discover Victoria Meats. Now I look at this neighbourhood shop as my savior on busy nights. Anytime I can avoid the big grocery store chains, especially between May and October, I surely will. Here, I can get milk, eggs and butter as well as other grocery items perfect for

quick dinners — fresh rye bread and Portuguese Bakery buns, deli meats and cheeses and pre-cooked or ready-to-cook items such as maple barbecue chicken thighs or smoked pork chops. You’ll find Baba’s Own perogies, cabbage rolls, pies, and ground bison in the freezer. And for treats, Dutch licorice and other sweets. The 124th Street Market before or after the game is always the right thing to do on Thursday evenings. There are plenty of offerings including fresh salad greens from Latuca and local meats from Sangudo Growers. Grab as much organic produce from the Sparrow’s Nest Organics stand as you can carry to stock up for the weekend. Keep an eye out for the season’s first offering which almost always includes garlic scapes. When you do, go home and make this. You won’t be sorry.

garlic scape pesto Garlic scapes are the green shoots or stalks of the garlic plant. At the restaurant we used it on sandwiches, pasta, chicken or fish. It would also be great on pizza or added to your favourite hummus or ricotta cheese and eaten on crostini or crackers. At the school I add this to tomato soup and serve with whole wheat pita crisps. It really adds a burst of flavour. 6-8 garlic scapes, roughly chopped ½ c

fresh basil, loosely packed

¼ c pumpkin seeds, lightly toasted ¼ c

grated Parmesan cheese

squeeze of a whole lemon

¼ c

extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper, to taste

In a food processor, puree scapes, basil, pumpkin seeds, cheese and lemon juice. With the motor running, slowly drizzle olive oil until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Makes approximately 1½ cups. On Our Table chef Cindy Lazarenko runs the hot lunch program at Highlands Junior High School. The program is funded by Enbridge through Metis Child and Family Services and relies on donations to succeed.

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The Tomato | May June 2014 19

feeding people

| morris lemire

Kick up the flavour: stocking your umami pantry The English language steals words like a nine-year-old snack thief steals sweets. Umami is such a word. We swiped it from the Japanese, it’s their word for the role glutamic acid plays in the experience of flavour. The closest word in English for umami is savouriness. Long before we even had a word for it, let alone the science, the key to good flavour was finding balance. For years the classic four acid, sweet, bitter and salt were the basic set. Now, following the recent discovery of an actual taste receptor on the tongue for umami, it officially became the fifth taste. Call it what you may, it’s here to stay.

Have you ever made a recipe that didn’t turn out? Tried one that doesn’t work? Has missing ingredients? Is missing a method? That happens to us all the time! Which is why we develop our own recipes for each issue, and test the recipes sent to us by chefs and contributors. Now you can join in the fun. Learn the best techniques plus culinary tips and tricks with The Tomato editor Mary Bailey, chef Brad Smoliak and special guests. Participate in hands-on prep and cooking, enjoy wine tasting, and lots of prizes and give-aways.

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20 May June 2014 | The Tomato

In 1866, German scientist Dr. Karl H.L. Ritthausen, identified glutamic acid, the most abundant amino acid, in his studies on wheat. But it was the Japanese scientist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda, who isolated glutamic acid in 1908, linking it to savouriness, i.e. umami. Two other amino acids have since been added to the umami list, inosinate, found in fish and meat, and guanylate, found in mushrooms. One way to understand the taste/ flavour character of umami is discovering that umami-rich ingredients have a synergistic effect on flavour, which enhances the wow factor — as the umami information center puts it: “1+1=8.” (umamiinfo.com). When combined with other ingredients, these little gems kick-up the flavour of your dishes, letting you reduce the amount of fat, salt and sugar in a recipe without sacrificing taste or flavour. Umami is a team player helping the other ingredients make a unified whole without smothering their individual contribution. The taste of umami can be subtle and a bit elusive at first. I recognize it better in a dish, where its total affect on flavour is showcased. Often I

will add miso, for example, and never actually taste the miso itself. The effect of adding salt to a dish is immediate, which is why it is added incrementally. Umami, well, not so much. When using ingredients high in umami always remember the other tastes. For example, umami-rich soy sauce, miso, and anchovies, are also generously salty. So you may wish to add these ingredients before salting your dish. You can train your palate to taste salt at a lower threshold, which in turn will increase your perception of flavour across the whole spectrum. I am not saying cut it out, but lowering your salt threshold, combined with glutamate’s ability to reduce our dependence on salt, is reason enough to jump on the fifth taste bandwagon. Just as umami became better known, a taste receptor for fat, the sixth taste, burst on the scene. Neither discovery was a surprise, more like a confirmation of many cooks’ experience. But the discovery of an actual physical taste receptor raised some interesting issues in the culinary world and made it very hard to be dismissive. Some of the fuss is this. Taste receptors for savouriness are on the tongue, just where you would expect them to be. But they have also been found in the stomach. So our bellies taste things? Well, sort of. Taste receptors in the human stomach send messages to the brain via the vagus nerve telling the body to prepare for digestion. They also tell us when we are full, satiated, as nutritionists say. The better your diet, the more umamirich amino acids engaged in eating, the sooner the taste receptors in the stomach signal the brain that all is well and the brain tells us to put the fork down. Here is a short list of common umami-rich items you can use every day.

Miso A fermented and aged soybean product used to enrich soups, stews, marinades, salad dressings, sauces and gravies. In Japan, Korea and China, where it is also called soybean paste, there are dozens of types, many of them still lovingly made at home. In the West there are three primary kinds categorized as light, medium and dark. Light miso is made with white rice and soybeans, medium with brown rice and dark is often made with barley. They vary in richness, saltiness and flavour, but the rule of thumb is to mix light with a light dish, say eggs, and the heavy dark ones with things like baked beans. Miso is versatile and highly nutritious, being high in B vitamins and probiotics. Vine-ripened Tomatoes In-season, ripe local fruit and vegetables. Umami increases with ripeness. While fresh is best, canned will do. In the dead of winter look for canned Italian D.O.P. San Marzano tomatoes. They are low in salt, sweet and ripe. Tomato paste in a tube is also a very good concentrated source of flavour and once opened keeps well. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is very high in glutamates. A little goes a long way to increase favour of a dish. You can even use the rind in tomato sauces, soups and stews to increase savouriness. Extra-virgin olive oil A taste receptor for fat, taste receptor CD36, has been identified on the human tongue. Surprised? Probably not. This bit of science cemented our love affair with butter, bacon, duck fat, olive oil — it’s a long list — all rich in the fifth taste. Fat carries the flavour in meat, as well as many other dishes. Clearly, something between fat and umami are at play. Oils, like beer, are highly susceptible to light and oxygen, so buy in small dark bottles and store in dark cupboards. Mushrooms When I was a kid my mom would make mushrooms on toast. Yep! You guessed it, Campbell’s canned soup

on toast. I loved it. Dried shiitake mushrooms are rich in flavour, keep very well and can be used in many ways. Kombu One of the seaweeds, vegetables of the sea, that the Japanese use in stocks and broths and sushi. It is primarily used in aashi stock, an essential base for many Japanese dishes. Kombu can be infused for mere minutes in water, soaked overnight, or added to soups and stews and stir-fries. They are packaged dried and keep forever.

Because you can love your knife.

Soy Sauce: Soy sauce undergoes a long and elaborate fermentation, then is pasteurized for long keeping. A splash of soy sauce works well in a marinade, or glaze for BBQ pork chops or salmon. Stock Stock is fundamental to home cooking. Make your own with local organic chicken backs. Some of the seaweeds, kombu in particular, also make excellent stock. I freeze some in a range of sizes, including icecube trays, for ease of thawing and cooking flexibility. Of course stock can be purchased ready-to-go, but these are usually over salted, bland and made with unidentified byproduct. When something is so easy to make, with such superior results, why bother buying something that tastes inferior. Other Foods High in Umami • Anchovy paste • Vegemite (yeast extract) • Brewers yeast • Fermented fish sauce or pastes • Dried Bonito flakes • Kimchi • Worcestershire sauce • Pesto from basil, kale, cilantro and lovage Good food, good health, and happy cooking! Morris Lemire loves a dish called Basque mushrooms on toast, made with butter, hot chilies and sherry, lots of umami.

10816 - 82Ave. Edmonton 587-521-2034

The Tomato | May June 2014 21

tomato test kitchen Hand made pasta with Daniel Costa of Corso 32 and daniel on making pasta and other things culinary: Italian food is all about simple ingredients with bold and direct flavours — you shouldn’t have to look for it. I don’t agree that everything should be seasoned with salt and pepper. Sometimes it’s better to add the pepper later. But salt, always. Most people don’t season enough, or use enough oil. Fresh cherry tomatoes make a nice tomato sauce but our tomatoes are usually not sweet enough, especially the seeds, which can make a sauce bitter. I don’t like to freeze ricotta gnocchi but freeze the pasta after you have rolled it out. It’s better than drying it. Add the finely grated cheese off the heat, otherwise it’ll clump. Don’t oversauce the pasta. Don’t rinse the pasta, you need the bit of starch to help your sauce stick. Don’t skimp on the salt. Recipes follow on page 24.

Clockwise from top left: Daniel Costa mixing ricotta filling for ravioli; the end result: ravioli with butter and sage; Nikki McGill and her sister Jodi share a laugh over pasta dough. Above: Christopher with finished tortellini. From left: Photo sequence of Christopher making ravioli; dough after first pass through the pasta machine; placing the ricotta filling; sealing the deal with the top sheet of pasta. All photos Johwanna Allyene, To Be In Pictures 22 May June 2014 | The Tomato

Christopher Hyde, Bar Bricco

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The Tomato | May June 2014 23

hosting mEmorablE EvEnts sinCE 1950

tomato test kitchen recipes Continued from page 22

off the inside of a fork to create thin indents on your gnocchi. Set aside on a floured surface.

1 can (796ml) San Marzano tomatoes, crushed with hands

Bring a large pot of water to a boil with a handful of salt. Gently add the gnocchi to the boiling water. Once the gnocchi are floating cook for an additional minute. Using a slotted spoon gently remove the gnocchi and place in the pan of sauce. Toss the gnocchi with the sauce. Serve immediately with grated pecorino or parmigiano and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

1/4 c

extra virgin olive oil

Serves 4

11110 - 108 Street

2 cloves

garlic, thinly sliced

780.474.3411

1 T

salt

www.edpetroleumclub.com

1 handful fresh basil

Edmonton PEtrolEum Club

simple tomato basil sauce Use this sauce for the ricotta gnocchi or any pasta.

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Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat, add the garlic, stir frequently until the garlic begins to colour. Add the crushed tomatoes and salt. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the fresh basil, cook for a additional 2 minutes.

ricotta gnocchi 1 lb fresh ricotta, use sheep milk ricotta if possible 1 egg ¾ c

flour

½ c pecorino romano cheese, finely grated 1t nutmeg 278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6

kosher salt

1 can (796ml) San Marzano Tomatoes, crushed with hands ¼ c

extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves

garlic, thinly sliced

1 T

salt

1 handful fresh basil Place the ricotta in a fine strainer over a bowl, allow to strain for a minimum of 1 hour.

24 May June 2014 | The Tomato

basic pasta dough The general rule is one egg per 100 grams of flour. This recipe adds more egg yolk for richness, good for ravioli. Our dough at Corso is bright yellow because we use only egg yolk. 3-3½ c

flour

eggs, extra large

egg yolks

Place the flour in a large bowl or on a flat surface, make a well in the middle. Add the remaining ingredients in the well. Using a fork beat the egg mixture, slowly incorporate the flour until a mass forms. The dough should be a little sticky but not wet, add more flour if needed. Clean your surface with a dough scraper. Knead the dough with the palms of your hands for about 6 minutes. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest for at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or overnight in the fridge.

ricotta ravioli with butter and sage This is a classic northern Italian dish. The addition of wilted spinach or Swiss chard can add another great element.

In a large bowl mix the ricotta, egg, cheese, nutmeg, and salt until well combined. Add the flour, mix to combine. Place the dough on a floured work surface, knead for about 45 seconds to combine. Cover dough and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

1 recipe basic pasta dough

¼ t

nutmeg, grated

Divide the dough into 4. Roll each piece into 2cm (diameter) cylinders on a floured surface. Cut each cylinder into 2cm pieces. Using your thumb or two fingers roll each piece of dough

kosher salt

½ T

fresh lemon juice

filling 1lb

fresh ricotta

¼ c Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

Place all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix together using a wooden spoon,

continue mixing until smooth. Season to taste.

Eat and drink in French

to finish 5 knobs

unsalted butter

10 leaves fresh sage

Bistro

Parmigiano Reggiano

Roll out the pasta dough to the thinnest possible setting (be sure to flour the dough as you go). Cut 3-inch squares from the rolled pasta sheets. Place a tablespoon of filling in the center of each square. Place another square on top, and seal all sides by pressing down with your fingers. Bring a large pot of water to the boil with 3 tablespoons of salt for every 6 quarts of water. Quickly add the ravioli to the water 1 at a time. Cook until tender about 3 minutes. While the ravioli is cooking: Heat butter in a large frying pan. Add the sage leaves. Continue cooking the butter until the sage becomes aromatic, then add a little pasta cooking water to stop the cooking process. Add the ravioli to the pan, gently swirl. Divide the ravioli on plates, top with Parmigiano and black pepper. Serve immediately. All recipes courtesy Daniel Costa, corso 32.

shopping list Italian Centre Shops: D.O.P. San Marzano tomatoes Fresh basil

themarcrestaurant @themarcedmonton www.themarc.ca #100 9940-106 St. 780.429.2828

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The Tomato | May June 2014 25

the proust culinary questionnaire Lynn Crawford, 2014 Hokanson Chef in Residence at NAIT In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era — he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album. Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist. “How lucky am I to be a chef,” says Lynn Crawford, her intelligence and sense of fun palpable; from the twinkle in her eye to the hint of a smile, as if she possesses a

delicious secret she can’t wait to tell you about. Her words of advice to the culinary students? “Keep on growing and learning everybody, take some risks, get out of the box,” she said. “Everyone should have a dream and goals to create a sense of fulfillment and happiness. “It’s an incredible feeling to have accomplished things; never for a second take anything for granted.” Hometown? Toronto. Years cooking? 94. Where would you like to live? That changes on any given day, but I do love New York. Your favourite food and drink? That changes every day. I had a wonderful margarita pizza for lunch and a glass of red wine — that’s just today. What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking? There’s nothing else I’d rather do. What do you most appreciate in your friends? Support. Your favourite qualities in a dish? Respectfulness of the products. A cook? So many qualities, but ultimately I think it’s the passion for their craft. A wine? Its history, the winemaker, who is growing the grapes. Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)? Alice Waters, Julia Child, Jann Arden, Joan of Arc, Ellen DeGeneres, Chelsea Handler. Who would cook? It would be potluck. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Amazing, fascinating!

26 May June 2014 | The Tomato

Current culinary obsession/exploration? I go in waves but right now I have a complete fascination with bread making — incredibly fascinated with nurturing the starter. Meaningful/crazy cooking experience? I am fascinated with traditional cooking, in complete awe. For example, when I went to Tofino and learned how to prepare wild Chinook on an open fire. Just caught, and they showed me the process — butterflied the fish and wove it between cedar branches clamped on to a salmonberry bush — learned from the grandmothers. Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you? There’s been so many; cooking with Alice Waters, cooking with Julia Child, competing on Iron Chef and Top Chef Masters, having wonderful family gatherings. There’s so much, I’ve cooked for so long and have so many wonderful memories. Mentors? Every chef has someone they worked with and learned from. For me its Susan Weaver in Chicago, she was a strong mentor. Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food? You always have bread, you always have eggs, a good old fried egg sandwich. Philosophy? Life is so short, embrace it. Always give back, always be positive, try to do your best each and every day. What’s next? There are many adventures I still want to go on; it’s always about food and learning. One of the best ways to grow as a chef is to travel, yet at the same time my days are full. I am going to write another book, Chopped Canada is going for another season, and Ruby Watchco, my true love, is right now. That consumes me day to day, and I love having the opportunity to entertain and showcase the wonderful world of food. You have to be happy in what you are doing, learning and sharing. Who knows what’s around the corner?

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wine maven Maven has a Latin accent this issue, enjoying wines from Spain and Brazil.

jean leon 3055 chardonnay makes you a believer in the grape again; fragrant apple/pear aromas lead to elegantly dry flavours with just the right amount of acidity for versatility, so you can have with food or a glass after work; All in all, lovely.

jean leon 3055 merlot/petit Verdot blend; firm ripe tannins support bright and spicy red fruit. Drink with red-sauced pastas, grilled beef, lamb souvlaki. Jean Leon is the real deal— the grapes have European organic certification, the snappy packaging garnered a wine marketing prize last year at Vin Italy, and at a delicious price. Fantastic value, under $20.

salton moscato intenso, light and fresh tasting with a fine bubble, moderately sweet yet refreshing. At 7.5 per cent alcohol a glass with weekend breakfast is not untoward. Under $20.

curious to make your very own Brazilian national cocktail, the Caipirinha? Use the same cachaça as Pampa, smooth and silky Jamel Cachaça. Under $40.

in stock now: faces, the official wine of FIFA World Cup by noted Brazilian wine producer Lidio Carraro. Faces Tinto is a masterful blend of 11 grape varieties Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teroldego, Touriga Nacional, Tannat, Ancellotta, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Malbec and Alicante Bouschet. The idea, 11 grapes in the wine and 11 members of the team reflects the national terroir of Brazil in grapes and in sport. Clever idea, and the result is a robust and flavourful red wine that tastes great, no matter who is winning. The Branco (white) is a fresh and fruity blend of Moscato, Chardonany and Italian Riesling, ideal for sipping with cheese and fruit. “With Faces, we seek to represent the Brazilian soul — lively, cheerful and creative. We believe that it will be the ball on the foot and the wine in the glass,” says winemaker Monica Rossetti. Both in better wine shops, under $20.

28 May June 2014 | The Tomato

event calendar sunday may 4

monday june 9

Castello Romitorio Wine Makers Dinner with Filippo Chia, Cibo Bistro $125/person ++, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com

Indulgence a Canadian epic of food and wine, fundraiser for Slow Food/ Indulgence NAIT Culinary Bursary, Delta Edmonton South, $75/person, indulgenceedmonton.ca.

thursday, may 8 Swine and Dine Dinner celebrating Alberta Pork, Massimo’s Cucina Italiana, $55/person, 780-439-4869. Tomato Test Kitchen: Grilling — marinades, rubs and sides with chef Brad Smoliak, author Canadian Barbecue Cookbook, $125/person, eventbrite.ca

friday, may 9 Terras D’Alter Wine Makers Dinner with oenologist Peter Bright Sabor Divino, $100/person ++, 780-757-1114, sabordivino.ca.

tuesday, may 13 Hooked on Slow Sustainable Seafood in Edmonton, LUX Steakhouse + Bar Tickets: $70, nonmembers $80, slowfoodedmonton.ca.

may 23-24 Host Edmonton 2014 Culinary Festival, Shaw Convention Centre, hostedmonton.com.

thursday, june 5 Zenato Wine Makers Dinner with Alberto Zenato, Sorrentinos Downtown $135/person ++, 780-424-7500 downtown@sorrentinos.com.

saturday, june 7 Concordia Lobster Fest Fundraiser $100/person, onlineservices. concordia.ab.ca.

tuesday june 10

Quality. Selection. Service. No Compromises.

Aligra.

West Edmonton Mall • Inside Entrance 58 • Reserved Parking 780.483.1033 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com

facebook.com/aligrawine @Aligrawine

Masi Wine Dinner for the Edmonton Humane Society, The Wine Room, $125/person, 780-756-7666, thewineroom.ca.

thursday, june 12 Frank Family Vineyards Dinner with Rich and Leslie Frank, Edmonton Petroleum Club, $115/person, edpetroleumclub.com.

june 14-15 Porkaplooza Barbecue Festival Hawrelak Park, porkapalooza.ca.

saturday, june 21

• Edmonton’s best selection of whisky • Unique Cheeses & Charcuterie • Full lunch and dinner menu • Private functions Southside • 5482 Calgary Trail • 780.761.1761 2ND LOCATION DOWNTOWN! 10124 – 124 Street • 780.760.8060 www.thebothy.ca

The Pan Tree’s 2nd Annual Chili Cook Off Kids with Cancer fundraiser The Pan Tree, $8/person, $10 at the door, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca

sunday june 22 Wagner Family of Wine Dinner with Peter Lindenlaub Kitchen by Brad, $135/person+ info@kitchenbybrad.ca.

mark your calendar july 7-18

In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience • Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850

NAIT Culinary, Pastry and Chocolate Boot Camps nait.ca/bootcamp.

Now Open

10525 Jasper Avenue • www.thewineroom.ca

The Tomato | May June 2014 29

kitchen sink | what’s new and notable restaurant ramblings St Albert residents have been keeping a secret: Privada wine and tapas (100-21 Perron Street, St. Albert, 780-569-5479, privadawinebar.com), open Wednesday through Sunday for wine and delicious small plates — loved the confit duck cassoulet and beautiful house-made coppa, elk pastrami and duck prosciutto. Farrow (8422 109 Street, 780-757-2600) the new sandwich shop next to Three Boars run by coffee aficionado Justin Benson and chef Laine Cherkewick, is now open 7am-2pm everyday but Tuesday. The menu is still in flux, but you’ll always be able to find a great cup of coffee. The next AGA Supper Club is June 1, with a made in Alberta theme, celebrating 90 years of Alberta art and the AGA’s 90th birthday. Independent curator Katherine Ylitalo is the guest speaker. AGA’s Supper Clubs create connections between art, ideas and fine food, $150/person ($65 tax receipt) youraga.ca, 780-422-6223. The French Quarter Farmers’ Market opens May 11 with a Mother’s Day Brunch at Café Bicyclette from 10am. The market will run every Sunday from noon-4pm, at La Cite Francophone, (8627 91 Street/Rue Marie-Anne Gaboury) until late fall. We’re looking forward to Meat Brisket, Beer and Bourbon Shop (8216 104 Street) the new southern smokehouse from the Next Act crew, Nathan McLaughlin, Saylish Haas and Michael Rebalkin. Check it out! Bar Bricco (10347 Jasper Avenue, barbricco.com) is now open. No reservations, perch yourself at the bar or one of the few tables. Enjoy a fabulous lineup of wines and an extensive menu of what Italians call spuntini, or small plates. The uova da raviolo (a whole egg cooked inside ravioli with ricotta, then showered in a lavish dusting of pecorino) is amazing, as are the thin slices of culatello and San Daniele ham off the direct-from-Italy handslicers anchoring one end of the bar. Wine prices are reasonable, and the staff are as adept with making thoughtful suggestions from the mostly Italian list as they are with handling the Coravin, the ultraefficient single bottle wine preservation system. Open from 5pm until late.

30 May June 2014 | The Tomato

Something new at La Ronde (10111 Bellamy Hill, 780-428-6611, chateaulacombe.com); Tieless Tuesdays, a more casual way to enjoy the view. Enjoy live jazz, specialty cocktails and halfpriced wines on Tuesdays from 5pm.

wine tastings happenings and events Join special guest Filippo Chia from the Castello Romitorio Winery, Sunday May 4 at Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, cibobistro.com) for a multi-course dinner paired with the superb wines of this fine Tuscan estate, $125/person++, 780-757-2426. Enjoy the result when our region’s farmers team up with their favourite chefs and wineries to create magic at Indulgence a Canadian epic of food and wine, Monday, June 9, $75, indulgenceedmonton.ca. Enjoy a toothsome four-course dinner featuring Alberta pork at the Massimo’s Swine ‘n Dine dinner, Thursday, May 8. Check out the menu at massimoscucina.ca, and note the excellent line-up of optional wine pairings from Sicily, Tuscany, and Campania chosen by Fine Wines by Liquor Select, $55/person++, 780-439-4869, 5012 104A Street. Meet Peter Bright, considered one of the top oenologists in the world, and taste the wines of his Alentejo, Portugal estate Terras D‘Alter at a wine maker’s dinner Friday, May 9 at Sabor Divino (10220 103 Street, sabordivino.ca), $100/person++; 780-757-1114. Indulge in a five-course dinner paired with Masi, one of the premier wine estates in the Veneto, at the Wine Room’s (10525 Jasper Avenue, thewineroom.ca) fundraiser for the Edmonton Humane Society on Tuesday, June 10, $125/person, 780-756-7666. Once upon a time there was a CTV Edmonton news anchor named Leslie Miller. Now Ms. Miller is Mrs. Rich Frank of Napa’s Frank Family Vineyards, in town Thursday June 12 for a wine makers dinner at the Edmonton Petroleum Club (11110 108 Street, edpetroleumclub.com), $115/person, 780-474-3411.

Wondering where to catch World Cup soccer action? At all seven Caffe Sorrentino locations, June 14 - July 14, caffesorrentino.com. Taste some delicious fish dishes and learn more about programs such as Oceanwise at Hooked on Slow; sustainable seafood in Edmonton at Lux Steakhouse and bar, Tuesday, May 13, slowfoodedmonton.ca. Sorrentino’s Downtown (10162 – 100 Street, sorrentinos.com) hosts a magnificent wine dinner with Signor Alberto Zenato from the prestigious Italian winery Zenato, Thursday, June 5, $135/person++, 780-424-7500, downtown@sorrentinos.com On June 21, from 12pm-3pm, support The Pan Tree’s 2nd Annual Chili Cook Off: Strathcona County’s RCMP vs Firefighters, tickets $8 in advance, $10 at the door. Call The Pan Tree (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, thepantree. ca) for tickets, 780-464-4631, proceeds to Kids with Cancer. On Sunday June 22, join Peter Lindenlaub, division manager for the Wagner Family of Wine (Caymus, Belle Glos, Meiomi, Conundrum, Mer et Soleil) for a seasonally inspired dinner featuring Wagner Pinot Noir at Kitchen by Brad. Tickets, $135.00+, info@kitchenbybrad.ca. The fabulous Concordia Lobster Fest is Saturday, June 7, 4pm-8pm with the Derina Harvey Band. Ticket $100/person, visit onlineservices.concordia.ab.ca Wednesday tastings at Aligra Wine & Spirits (1423, 8882 170 Street Entrance 58, West Edmonton Mall, 780 483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com): Moscatos in May, May 21, $25/person; Gins in June, June 11, just in time for World Gin Day, June 14, $30/person. Every Saturday in June, pop by to taste a different rose, perfect for summer drinking. Tastings at Unwined Fine Wine, Spirits and Ales (#2, 512 St. Albert Trail, 780458-4777, unwined.biz): Cinqo de Mayo Tequila Tasting, Sunday, May 4, 6pm; Where’s the Fiore? Featuring the wines of Alessandro Fiore ,Tuesday May 7 ; Accidental Sommelier Series: Rose in May, Tuesday, May 13, 7:30pm; Accidental Please see “Kitchen Sink” on page 32

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seasonal prairie cuisine • the evolution of tradition www.hardwaregrill.com / 780.423.0969 / 9698 Jasper Ave also visit our newest downtown restaurant: tavern 1903 at alberta hotel

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kitchen sink Continued from page 30

Sommelier Series: Down in Douro, Tuesday, June 17, 7:30pm. All tastings are $25 in advance. To book, call 780-458-4777.

cooking classes Tomato Test Kitchen, Thursday May 8: Grilling — marinades, rubs and sides with chef Brad Smoliak, author Canadian Barbecue Cookbook, $125/person, eventbrite.ca

Present

june 7th

7128 Ada Boulevard

$100

per ticket

for

steak and lobster ADVANCE TICKETS ONLY Must Be

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Love to cook? Want to improve your knife work and other culinary skills? Curious to work in a professional kitchen? Consider a NAIT Continuing Education Boot Camp. In the Pastry Boot Camp, Monday-Friday, July 7-11, learn artisan bread making and chocolate techniques among other pastry skills. In the Culinary Boot Camps, Tuesday-Friday, July 8-11and July 15-18, learn professional planning and prep skills. New this year is For the Love of Chocolate Boot Camp, Tuesday-Friday, July 15-18. To enlist, visit nait.ca/bootcamp. The Pan Tree’s (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780 464-4631) cooking demo for May: May 3, 11am-1pm, Citrus with home economist Deb Anzinger, $80; May 5, 6:30pm-8:30pm, Cookware and its Uses with chef Michelle DeLand, $30; May 7, 6pm-8pm, BBQ Creations with chef Stefan Cherwoniak, $70; May 14, 6pm-7:30pm Gluten-free with chef Bianca Osbourne, $75. For more info and to register visit thepantree.ca. Kitchen by Brad has paired with master butcher Cory Meyer from Acme Meat Market to talk about meat on the grill — all paired with ideal beverages for around the ‘que. June 17 and June 24, 6:30pm, $135/person+; book at info@ kitchenbybrad.ca. Market Fresh Cooking Classes at Seasoned Solutions with Gail Hall, June 14, June 28 or July 12, 11am-3pm, $175+. Join

32 May June 2014 | The Tomato

Gail for Seasoned Solutions Kitscoty and Vermillion Culinary Tour, July 19 and 20, gail@ seasonedsolutions.ca to book.

product news Check out the new Le Creuset stainless steel cookware made with premium triple layer stainless steel, and the triple ring lids mirror Le Creuset’s unique design heritage. Open stock ranges from $100-$400 per piece, sets $400$800. As well, Le Creuset’s square cast iron skillet, perfect for stovetop grilling, regular $190, is on Father’s Day promotion for $130. More cool stuff in stock now: Chef’n Buttercup buttermaker makes 1 cup of fresh butter in three minutes, of dishwasher safe plastic, $18.95. The Smart Cookie stores and freezes 13 cookies, is made in Canada of dishwasher-safe silicone, $18.95. All at The Pan Tree (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780 464-4631, thepantree.ca). The Art of Cake now has a full-on retail store in Edmonton Centre, near the food court. Find them at the 104 Street City Farmers’ Market Downtown most Saturdays as well. Thinking of a new kitchen? Pop by Huntwood Custom Cabinets grand opening of their new location at 5108 75 Street, Saturday, May 3 from 1-6pm. Expect to find design ideas, the latest trends and several style, wood and colour selections, as well as food and great prize giveaways. Looking for that delicious chewy candy called Newget? Find Newget at the 104 Street City Farmers’ Market Downtown on May 24, 31, June 7, 28, July 5, 12, 19, 26, August 9, 16, and at Indulgence June 9. Order online at newget. ca, or pick up at Blush Lane, Chokolat, Gracious Goods. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

according to judy | judy schultz chef-driven urban rustic cuisine. prime downtown experience. awesome patio. join us for craft cocktails and sharable plates, outdoors on the patio, and indoors for lunch, dinner and late night. tavern1903.com

780.424.0152 for hours and reservations

9802 jasper ave.

Tavern 1903 and Hardware Grill are locally owned and operated, and located a short stroll apart on Jasper Ave East.

Break out the popcorn and put your feet up. Judy does food movies. TWO BIG TOMATO MOVIES: Fried Green Tomatoes: Fanny Flagg’s funny-sad 1991 script includes what must be the most memorable barbecue scene on film. Attack of the Killer Tomatoes, 1978 cult classic. Our hero, Mason Dixon, saves the world from rampaging hordes of killer tomatoes. Spoiler alert: in the final scene, expect a giant carrot to rise from the earth and shout, “All right boys, they’re gone!” THREE ASIAN DISHES: Nobody does food like Ang Lee in Eat Drink Man Woman. Knives and cleavers, pots and woks, chopping blocks for dispatching fish. It’s beautiful. Released in Taiwan in 1994, Eat, Drink is timeless. Tortilla Soup, the 2001 American version of Eat, Drink, was yet another Ang Lee banquet. Compelling and romantic. Tampopo. You’ve heard of spaghetti westerns? This 1985 Japanese release is a noodle western, a funny/sweet story about truckdrivin’, boot-wearin’ Japanese cowboys who love to eat ramen, and about the woman who cooks it for them. The world, reflected in a bowl of soup. The Ramen Girl. This 2009 Korea/ Japan collaboration, is a pale imitation of Tampopo. The plot: naïve American girl follows jerky boyfriend to Osaka. Abandoned, she falls weeping into a ramen shop for comfort. A bowl of ramen saves the day, but not the plot, which grows extremely thin. TWO FEASTS: Babette’s Feast: (1987) The original slow food story by Isak Dinesen is elegant and drop-dead gorgeous from beginning to end. The fireplace scene in Babette’s kitchen will make your mouth water! Big Night: Big movie (1997), big food (that timpani!), big feast, and what a party. Once again, food and cooking is all about generosity of spirit. So what if a customer orders risotto with a side of spaghetti? “Maybe she loves starch!”

34 May June 2014 | The Tomato

TWO POLITICAL FOOD MOVIES: Super Size Me: Back in 2004, Morgan Spurlock spent 30 days eating every meal in McDonalds. He gained 24.5 lbs. on the McDiet. Highly political, loaded with bias, Super Size Me was a Sundance favourite. Why pick on McDonald’s? Well, maybe because they control 43 per cent of the fast food market, worldwide. Michelin Stars: The Madness of Perfection: This 2010 BBC documentary is a must-see for chefs who aspire to fame. Attempting to debunk the threestar Michelin system, the presenter, a London restaurant critic, includes a wrenching interview with Bernard Loiseau’s widow, following his tragic suicide over the possibility of losing a star. ONE MYSTERY: Who Is Killing the Great Chefs of Europe (1978). Great chefs are dying, and Jacqueline Bisset is the toothsome pastry chef who finally figures it out: wealthy Robert Benchley, eating too high off the hog for too long, cannot resist a great meal, even if it kills him. TRIPLE THREAT: Eating Raoul; The Chef, the Thief, his Wife and Her Lover; and La Grande Bouffe. Over the top? Yes, but essential viewing for foodies; cannibalism, gorging-to-death, hot sex in cold kitchens…the works. AND TWO MORE: Ratatouille: Disney does dinner in this charming animation about a rat who loves to cook. I know, I know – rats don’t belong in kitchens, but you gotta love this winsome little rodent. Julie and Julia. Julie Powell, the woman who famously ripped off Julia Child’s classic Mastering the Art of French Cooking to use in her own cheesy food blog, probably still wonders why Julia didn’t say thanks. Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci are terrific as Julia and Paul, the food-loving Childs. Judy likes her movies with kettle corn and extra butter.

A Canadian Epic

of Food and Wine June 9, 2014 6:30pm to 9:30pm Tickets $75 Indulge in an evening of fine VQA wines and prairie cuisine. Tickets on sale May 1, 2014 from The Junior League of Edmonton Restaurants

Producers

Wineries/Breweries

4404 (Delta Edmonton South)

Alberta Bison Ranch

Alley Kat Brewery

Belgravia Hub

Barr Estate Winery

Belle Valley Farms

Black Hills Estate Winery

Berry Ridge Orchard

Cedar Creek Estate Winery

Doef ’s Greenhouses

Desert Hills Winery

Culina Daravara

Edmonton Petroleum Club Fallen Timber Meadery Kitchen By Brad Four Whistle Farms Lux Steakhouse and Bar Madison’s Grill NAIT Pampa Steakhouse Red Ox Inn RGE RD Sage The Marc

Henry Of Pelham

Gull valley Greenhouses

Joie Farm

Harvest Micro Greens

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Hog Wild Specialties

Meyer Family Vineyards

Irvings Farm Fresh

Mt. Boucherie Winery

Mo-na Foods

Stoneboat Vineyards

Morinville Greenhouses

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Progressive Foods

vivo ristorante Von’s Steak & Oyster Bar

Gray Monk Estate Winery

Full Course Strategies

Newget Kompany

Toast Fine Catering

Dirty Laundry

Sundog Organic Farm Sunworks Farms Sylvan Star Cheese Tangle Ridge Ranch

Tantalus Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Van Western Vineyard Yellowhead Brewing Company

The Cheesiry Vitaly Teas

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Le Creuset Stainless Steel Cookware

Barb’s Kitchen Centre 9766 – 51 Avenue NW 780-437-3134

Bella Casa 9646 – 142 Street NW 780-437-4190

The Pan Tree Sherwood Park 550 – 220 Lakeland Drive 780-464-4631

Zenari’s 10180 – 101 Street NW 780-423-5409

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