The Tomato Food & Drink March April 2018

Take a bite of your city | March April 2018 | thetomato.ca

Tuscany through a chef’s eyes Top 100 best things to eat and drink

The

California Wine Fair Raise a glass to California and enjoy a unique opportunity to sample a wide selection of more than 400 premium wines from 150 of California’s top producers. Everyone is welcome, from novices to wine connoisseurs.

Tuesday, April 10, 2018 7:00 pm – 9:30 pm Hall D, Shaw Conference Centre 9797 Jasper Avenue Tickets available at www.easterseals.ab.ca and www.calwine.ca

75

$

includes admission, access to all poured wines, light hors d’oeuvres and silent auction.

Proceeds help Albertans with disabilities and medical conditions.

Contents Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Features

Publisher BGP Publishing

Copy Editor

Best things to eat or drink in Edmonton

Shauna Faragini

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Jan Hostyn Harold Wollin

Illustration/Photography

18 Tuscany Through a Chef’s Eyes Daniel Costa and Micah Joffe cook at Podere Panico

Marco Grillo Photograhy Harold Wollin

Design and Prepress

6 The 6th Annual Top 100

22 Canadian Culinary Championships Champs span the country

Bossanova Communications Inc.

28 Spanish Road Trip Slow travel in Spain | Harold Wollin

WebMeister Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist

Departments

Printer

Gastronomic happenings around town

Distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780.431.1802 or email marybee@telus.net.

January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780.431.1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca

14 The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Rod Butters, 2018 NAIT Chef in Residence

For advertising information call 780.431.1802.

The Tomato is published six times per year:

5 Dish

16 Beer Guy Free the beer | Peter Bailey

24 Feeding People It’s tradition! | Jan Hostyn

26 Wine Maven Mary Bailey

32 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

34 The Crossword Myles Mellor

On the cover: Daniel Costa (corso 32) makes polenta at Podere Panico in Tuscany.

Marco Grillo Photography, marcogrillo.com, (+39) 3406863795

Celebrating Edmonton’s

20 YEARS

Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | March Apri 2018 3

Voglia di girovagare.

(VOH-lee-ah dee JEE-roh-vuh-GAR-eh)

you know you want more...

Satisfy your ‘wanderlust’ in our shops, where you’ll find pantry staples and exotic delicacies; often in the same aisle.

Travel with your tastebuds.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park

italiancentre.ca

Local Seasonal Organic Sustainable •

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Dish

gastronomic happenings around town

a cappella at the curb

Photo courtesy UofA Alumni

congratulations teresa spinelli, the 2018 allard chair in business, macewan university “My business philosophy comes from my dad,” says Teresa Spinelli. “He believed that the more you give, the more you get.” Teresa is an indefatigable part of her community — as a volunteer, as a compelling speaker, as a mentor and visionary. She has multiple awards — Canada’s Top 100 Women Entrepreneurs, Women with Vision, the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Medal, the UofA Alumni Award.

In 2000, Spinelli became the temporary president of the Italian Centre, which, at the time, had 30 employees and a net worth of $9 million. She envisioned growing the business from a local grocery store to a major importer and distributor and, within one year, led the business to $12 million in sales. Today, there are four stores in Edmonton and Calgary, over 500 employees and $70 million in sales.

Owners Mich de Laive, Kim Szalynski and Todd Rutter and their chefs looked to Austin, Kaua’i, Portland, Vietnam, and Europe to create a menu that will take YEG street food to a new level. Expect breakfast and lunch dishes with a nod to Texas BBQ, French classics, Hawaiian beach food, and Portland food truck fare.

Find Curbside on the street, at events and at festivals; the grand opening will be at Sundance Ski & Snowboard Shop April 7.

Check for their locations daily on streetfoodapp.com/ Edmonton.

rod butters is the 2018 chef in residence at NAIT

Yet the stores still feel intimate and responsive to their communities. They embody the spirit of the founder, Teresa’s dad Frank Spinelli.

NAIT continues its successful Hokansen Chef in Residence program with this year’s choice, Okanaganbased chef Rod Butters (see the Culinary Proust, pg.

14). Chef Butters will spend March 12-16 with the students and you get a chance to taste the results. NAIT is giving away four pairs of tickets to an exclusive lunch prepared by chef Rod Butters and NAIT students on March 15. But you have to be quick. Contest ends March 6, visit nait.ca/ChefInResidence/contest to enter.

That is the genius of Teresa Spinelli. In growing the Italian Centre Shops, she never lost sight of what it’s really about, the people who work at the stores, the people who shop at the stores and the community at large.

“For me it’s not about selling salami. It’s about the people.

The reason I get up in the morning is because I want people to grow, and I want to share the experiences that I’ve faced over the years, so people know that is what helps them grow.”

the complete plate for a complete overhaul

For more than three decades, the Allard Chair in Business has upheld Dr. Charles Allard’s vision to recognize a distinguished businessperson and community leader and to provide students and faculty members an opportunity to meet an inspiring role model.

Individuals selected possess exemplary business acumen, demonstrate remarkable leadership skills and have made significant contributions to the community. We congratulate MacEwan for choosing Teresa Spinelli for this honour.

kick off downtown dining with the anti-freeze tour Those clever folks at Alberta Food Tours have come up with a plan to kick off Downtown Dining Week (March 9-18). On Thursday, March 1, enjoy three courses at The Marc, Wishbone, and Kitchen by Brad plus a Jacek Chocolate delight. Tix: $89, edmontonfoodtours.com.

Find all the deets regarding Dining Week at edmontondowntown.com

A Cappella has been catering Edmonton office lunches, events and parties for over 25 years. Now they are taking it to the streets.

Photos from top: Teresa Spinelli; A Capella’s new food truck; Rod Butters; and Lauren Klukas’ new book.

Lauren Klukas says her The Complete Plate is not a diet book. She says it’s about lifestyle and how to eat well.

The former competitive swimmer and personal trainer was diagnosed with a heart condition that meant she could no longer continue her extremely active life, she had to completely rethink how she ate. The book, the culmination of her extensive research on how to fuel our bodies, provides 30 balanced daily meal plans based on 1500, 2000 and 2500 calories. Follow it exactly, batch cook your favourites, follow it for five days a week — it is customizable and flexible. There are no demon foods, just a way to incorporate them so they don’t take over. Jam-packed with info about nutrition, ingredients, calorie counts, shopping lists and menus, it will take some work to set your plan up in the best way for you and your family. Lauren says that once she started following a meal plan that supplied the micro and macro nutrients she needed, her sugar cravings stopped. Now, that’s worth a bit of work. The Complete Plate by Lauren Klukas, Figure 1 Publishing, $29.95.

The Tomato | March April 2018 5

The Sixth Annual

TOP ONE HUNDRED Best things to eat or drink in Edmonton The nominations are in!

What was the best thing you ate or drank last year? The answers? Raw fish, fresh pasta, eggy brunch dishes, fried chicken, pizza of course. Ramen appears to have supplanted pho as our favourite soup. The explosion of high-quality pastry now available is reflected in the list. We love our carbs — fritters, rice balls, pretzels, scones, donuts, cake. And, for the first time, food experiences (a seafood club, a meat club and cooking classes) make a showing. Find the first 51 here and the complete list at thetomato.ca.

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1. Bündok’s Sea Bream The dish was a winner at Gold Medal Plates and our number one dish this year. Here’s what one nominator had to say: “A crisp and lively combination of flavours. It’s quite simply our favourite dish in the city, bringing us back to Bündok over and over again.”

2. Corso 32’s Agnolotti People have a hard time picking their favourite dish at Corso but some version of the agnolotti comes up time after time. Here’s why. It’s heavenly. Light as air. The fillings, complex and flavourful as they are, never overwhelm the delicate pasta. The pumpkinfilled was a subtle autumnal dish; the toothsome rapini pictured here delicious and the ricotta with truffled cheese and sage exceptional.

3. Nineteen’s Tuna Twists The raw tuna on a spoon appetizer is a perennial favourite. “Divine,” says Jessica A.

4. Cibo Bistro’s Rabbit Ragu The rich and complex flavours of this hearty dish are just so good and a perfect match for Brunello. One of many delish house-made pasta dishes at Cibo but this one seems to be everybody’s fave.

5. Bar Bricco’s Fonduta Agnolotti “These things are a flavour explosion. Doable decadence,” says Marco Ricioppo. Agreed!

6. Uccellino’s Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe Uccellino’s version of the classic Roman trattoria dish is a fan fave. The simple ingredients belie how hard it is to get this dish right. “It reminds me of Roma and every bite is perfection!” says Andriy Bazelevsky.

7. The Glass Monkey’s Pappardelle “Tender ribbons of pasta with a rich, succulent ragu of tender pork and earthy mushrooms in a wine sauce. A feast for all the senses,” says Darrell Lindstrom.

8. The Local Omnivore’s Fraulein Sandwich This grilled cheese with smoked back bacon schnitzel topped with a fried egg and hollandaise is a terrific example of the Omnivore’s cheerfully over-the-top, baconfriendly menu.

9. Fan Fan’s Jambon Croissant Fan Fan Patisserie opened without fanfare last summer in a tiny shop off Whyte Avenue.

The pastry, cakes and ice cream are a delight, especially, according to nominators, the ham and Parmesan croissant. Franck Bouilhol is the ebullient chef and we love the cheerful counter staff.

Please see “Top 100” on page 9

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Top 100 Continued from page 7

10. Rge Rd’s Black Garlic and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream Rge Rd carries on their glorious quest to create unforgettable food from ingredients close to home. Here is an example: “On the Road Trip menu this summer, there was a course called the pre-dessert — black garlic and vanilla bean ice cream with roasted hazelnuts and fresh strawberries from Prairie Gardens. Out of the eight courses of that night, it was by far the most surprising, balanced and delicious,” says Anthony Guy.

11. Hardware Grill’s Torchon of Canadian Foie Gras Mouth-watering, decadent richness. Torchon means dish towel and refers to the original cooking method of wrapping the fois in a towel to poach.

12. Wishbone’s Burger For burger fans, Wishbone’s cheeseburger is numero uno. Juicy, flavourful, classic and available at lunch!

13. Biera’s Tartare Chef Christine Sandford runs an amazing kitchen full of unexpected delights. Take the tartare for example. Not just beef filet, but several cuts combined to create a deeplyflavoured mince complemented by smoky, mustard-scented fat. Nominators also chimed in about the sourdough, both the (sky high) focaccia and the bread served with three toppings, lardo, olive oil and a kefir cultured butter. Yum.

14. Dorinku’s Jumbo Veggie Kakiage Udon This crispy tempura-style veg with cilantro and thick udon noodles in a mushroom and soy-rich broth has a lot of fans. Have with a side of Shaka Shaka fries for sure!

15. Café Linnea’s Gravlax There is lots to love at Café Linnea, but nominators settled on the house-cured salmon with pickled shallot, crème fraîche and grated horseradish on a potato beet pancake.

Refreshing!

16. London Local’s Brisket Burger London Local tops their brisket burger with a house-made leek and garlic aioli, a coronation relish and a house-made HP sauce. “Juicy and loaded with exceptional flavour,” says McKenzie Spies.

17. La Boule’s Kouign Amann “It’s soooo good— buttery, caramelized, incredibly flaky and just a little bit salty. It’s also different than any other pastry and tricky to explain to your friends without drooling.

If I make it there in time before they are all snapped up, I buy multiples. And then I eat one on the way home,” said Andrea Riewe.

www.themarc.ca

@themarcedmonton

18. Prairie Noodle Prairie Pork Shio Prairie Noodle’s roasted pork belly and smoked shoulder ramen with umeboshi egg, sesame, corn and black garlic sesame oil is again a fave with nominators this year.

19. The Duchess Bake Shop Duke Cake The Duchess started the wave — the incredible range of good pastry we have to choose from now. The Duke Cake is still the party cake of choice. Gorgeous to look at and a chocoholic’s dream come true.

20. Rooster Café’s Blueberry Polachintas The Rooster has a lot of delicious dishes for breakfast (the skillet, the schmears, eggs and bacon) but the blueberry polachintas got the most noms. “This particular version of blintz is Hungarian. Coming from Eastern Europe roots myself, it was heaven to taste homemade ricotta and just a hint of sweetness,” said Pamella Heikel.

We have a unique Taste From accordion mariachi to crystal decanter class, there’s an event for everyone in our tasting room.

21. Northern Chicken’s Extra Hot Fried Chicken “It’s the hottest dish in the city. They don’t f@&% around,” Carrie Odorizzi. ‘Nuf said.

11819 St. Albert Trail | SHERBROOKELIQUOR.COM

Please see “Top 100” on page 11

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SCHOOL OF BUSINESS

22. Tokiwa Ramen’s Goma Goma Ramen The Goma Goma with sesame and miso was the dish most mentioned from Tokiwa, but many fans felt this way. “All I have tried so far have been amazing. Pork broth to dream of. And you get a mini facial from all the steam from the simmering broth,” said Leanne Smoliak.

23. Big G’s Jerky This guy has legions of fans. “Big G is the most passionate BBQ’er I have seen. He loves swapping BBQ stories and giving tips. His jerky is amazing. My boyfriend puts the Big G Rub on pork chops, chicken wings and ribs. Oh and that Magic Mustard!!” said Cassandra Smallwood.

24. Cilantro and Chive’s (Lacombe) Duck Wings “Never thought I would like duck, until these wings. They are amazing! Crispy on the outside, juicy and tender on the inside, with the right amount of salt to keep you wanting more. I think I’m going to head there later on,” said Bud Kelly. See you there.

2018

DR. CHARLES ALLARD CHAIR IN BUSINESS

Teresa Spinelli

President of the Italian Centre Shop For Teresa Spinelli, food, family, community and business are inextricably intertwined.

Since taking over the Italian Centre Shop in 2000, she has grown the business her father started half a century ago into a chain of stores in Edmonton and Calgary.

Learn more about Teresa at MacEwan.ca/AllardChair.

25. Chartier’s Lobster Poutine Lots to love at Beaumont’s Chartier, their bread window, the pork dishes, the tourtiere.

Susan Connell loves the lobster poutine the most. “This dish is so decadent, with lobster bisque on top of the already delicious poutine and a full lobster. Add in cheese curds and what’s not to love about this?”

26. Belgravia Hub’s Corn Fritters

Established in 1985 by MacEwan University and the Allard Foundation, the Allard Chair in Business is an honorary teaching position that recognizes a distinguished business and community leader.

People love these fritters. “These are the best corn fritters I’ve ever had!” says Rachel Yager.

27. Lingnan’s Fried Spicy Salty Sweet Sour Eggplant “One of the most memorable dishes of 2017, and that was a year that had a visit to Joe Beef in it,” Nick Smoliak

28. Rosso’s Rosso Pizza The excellent Rosso with its spicy soppressata and Tallegio garnered the noms, as well as the Bianca Rucola with tons of fresh arugula. What’s Rosso’s secret to outstanding pizza?

It’s the crust — chewy, with lots of flavour and just the right amount of char.

29. Juniper Café’s Hand-held Bennie

the downtown business association presents

Downtown Dining Week TEN DAYS • THREE PRICES • DOZENS OF DELECTABLE MEALS

“It is filling, healthy and delicious. Roasted vegetables with your choice of bacon, sausage or pulled pork, topped with an egg, hollandaise and aioli,” said one nominator.

March 9 -18, 2018

30. Café Leva’s Margarita Pizza The classic Margarita with basil and bocconcini is always a treat and thin enough to fold like a NYC slice. Check out Leva’s new look this spring.

$18, $30, $45

31. Orbit Food Truck Pork Carnitas “It’s so delicious! I tried it once and then couldn’t stop going back for more. I wish they had a restaurant where I could eat this year ‘round,” Kate, age 9.

32. Three Boars Pork and Chicken Liver Bomb “Amazing flavours, along with a crisp, soft and silky texture combination, makes for an incredible bite. The chicken liver cream is some magical concoction that I go to bed dreaming about. The honey mustard offers a subtle balance of sweetness to finish it off.

Brilliant!” says Mike Popowich.

DINE OUT TO WIN GREAT PRIZES! Grand Prize: A Deluxe Weekend Getaway for Two at the Matrix Hotel.

33. Canteen’s Brunch We love brunch at Canteen. Nominators were torn between the Dutch Baby Pancake and the Eggs Florentine for best dish. Let’s just say they are both pretty amazing.

34. Ace Coffee’s Pistachio Donut Yes, donuts are the new croissant — the Ace pistachio gets the raves as well as the coffee.

Remember though, Ace is open Friday-Sunday only.

edmontondowntown.com

Please see “Top 100” on page 12

The Tomato | March Apri 2018 11

Top 100 Continued from page 11

35. Ávila Arepa’s Asada Negro Arepa, that delicious South American sandwich, are similar to a soft pita, split, and filled with delicious things. Readers like the Asada Negro (blackened steak), but don’t miss the pulled pork or the vegetarian bello monte.

The world’s choice for gluten-free is made right here at home.

Come taste why.

36. Vivo Ristorante Caesar Salad “A common item presented in a unique way,” says Cynthia Zukowsky. “Grilled romaine, crispy capers, house made dressing, toasty croutons, authentic Parmigiana all served on a wood board for our whole group to share.”

37. Pip’s Pineapple Upside-Down Cake A fun and delicious sweet bite at this jewel of a wine bar which serves tasty brunch dishes too. Fans also love the roast chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy.

38. The Marc’s Beignets “No one does these as well as the Marc,” said one nominator. The Marc’s warm and pillowy bits of fried sweet nothings, with two sauces for dipping, are hard to resist.

39. Rig Hand Craft Distillery’s Wildrose Gin “Along with the traditional gin botanicals, Wildrose contains juniper from the Rockies and wild rosehips from the foothills as well as saskatoon berries and local chamomile.

The perfect cocktail gin,” says Sandra Keating.

40. Lock Stock’s Pastry Open Tuesday to Saturday GetItFresh.ca

Kinnikinnick Fresh 10940 – 120 Street, Edmonton 780-732-7527

Breakfast meetings at Lock Stock always present a dilemma — the chewy almond brown butter cake or the savoury toast today?

41. Bonjour Bakery’s Pain au Levain

Sign up for

COOKING CLASSES today!

Bonjour changed its hours last year (now it’s open Wednesday to Saturday until 4pm) creating a bit of mad panic for folks to get their daily bread. The breads, made with house-milled grains and leavened for anywhere from one to several days prove the adage that simple isn’t easy.

42. Tzin’s Bacon with Apple Compote “Tzin is a fantastic little spot. The bacon with apple compote and Calvados gastrique is a favourite of ours and we think one of the best things on any menu anywhere. It’s a good thing they’re not open for lunch or I’d be there everyday for this!” Jim Dobie.

43. Mayday Dogs’ C.R.E.A.M Dog The Cream Dog, with its topping of whipped cream cheese and red pepper relish, was nominated by several people. We’re partial to the Korean Abdul-Jabbar with kimchee and sesame seed. But, really, the space is so quirky and fun that getting anything here is a trip.

44. The Italian Centre Shop Sandwich A perennial favourite, and not just with firemen and football fans. Think Avjar spread, a slick of olive oil with dried oregano, provolone and layers of mortadella and other deli meats on a baguette-style bun. It’s even tastier if you allow the flavours to meld for 15 minutes at room temperature.

45. Canova’s Panettone For information call 780.464.4631 or visit www.thepantree.ca View class schedule at: register.thepantree.ca #550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park, AB @PanTreeKitchen

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/ThePanTree

“I was unsure what I was getting into but it sure looked good. The wrapping, the shape and the aroma made me reach for the bread knife and the butter. I was fascinated how light and bubbly it was. The fruit was discreet, the candied orange subtle, but, man does that panettone pack a punch. My family finished it off in one sitting. This is not an exaggeration, only the truth. I want more,” said Krysta Forrest, describing the first time her family tried Canova’s panettone.

46. Packrat Louie’s Lemon Pizza “I have been eating this pizza for over 30 years,” said one nominator. It was on the menu when chef Peter Johner opened Packrat Louie, and through several ownership and menu changes, it is still on the menu and still, so so good.

47. Happy Camel’s Roasted Garlic Hummus The hummus for garlic lovers. “Most hummus doesn’t have enough garlic for me,” said Adriana Flores. “This hummus has both fresh and roasted garlic in just the right amounts”

We were surprised to see food experiences and subscription services pop up as nominations for the Top100. Then we thought, why not? People cooking together or figuring out an easy way to get great food into their homes is always good.

48. Effing Seafood’s #Effinglove Fish Club Rob Tryon, the easy-going chief seafood dude at Effing Seafood, who makes oystershucking look like child’s play, has a plan. That plan includes monthly delivery of high quality fish (or seafood). People rave.

49. Cooking classes at Kitchen by Brad Want to learn to cook like a Ukrainian Baba? Kitchen offers themed classes, express lunchtime classes and private classes. Nominators loved the flexibility of the classes, the hospitality of the hosts, and, of course, the food.

50. The Ruby Apron Sourdough Classes “The best thing I ate last year was the sourdough bread I made at the Ruby Apron,” said one nominator. Ballymaloe-trained chef Kaelin Whittaker’s passion is sourdough bread.

In her classes, attendees go from never having made bread to accomplished practioners of the art of sourdough. Sweet!

51. The Secret Meat Club

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Chefs Will Kotowicz and Peter Keith started this monthly subscription service of charcuterie, sausages, pickles and condiments while developing recipes for Meuwly’s, their shop that is scheduled to open later this year. Nominators loved the convenience and the surprise of the service (“it’s like getting a meat gift every month”) and the quality of the products.

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The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Rod Butters, 2018 NAIT Chef in Residence In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.

Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato gives it a culinary twist.

Rod Butters has been celebrating Canadian cuisine for his entire career; as the first chef de cuisine at the celebrated Wickaninnish Inn and now, in the Okanagan with the resto group RauDZ Creative Concepts, co-owned with Audrey Surrao. He has been instrumental in connecting farmers with chefs up and down the valley, in his own kitchens and with Okanagan Chefs Association members.

Chef Butters is the 2018 Hokanson Chef in Residence at NAIT, March 12-16. The program provides students with a rare opportunity to learn first hand from renowned chefs such as Susur Lee, Massimo Capra, Lynn Crawford, Michael Stadtländer and Amanda Cohen.

“I’m incredibly proud and excited to be the next NAIT Chef in Residence,” says chef Butters. “It’s an amazing lineup of previous chefs. Many of them are friends and I’m humbled to be included.”

14 March April 2018 | The Tomato

Hometown?

Port Coquitlam, the home of Terry Fox.

and griddle cooking as we get ready to open Sunny’s Modern Diner.

Years cooking?

38? I think now?

Meaningful/crazy cooking experience?

I’ve done a lot of crazy — cooking on glaciers, opening the Wickaninnish, a remote Relais & Châteaux property at the end of the road. That changed my career and changed Tofino forever.

Where would you like to live?

Alba, Italy, I mean who wouldn’t?

Your favourite food and drink?

Red wine and good dark roasted coffee.

A simple grilled cheese, sometimes with a fried egg, throw on some bread and butter pickles.

What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking?

Major league baseball coach, I’m too old to be a player. I tried to be a professional but then I went back to the thing (cooking) that I was actually good at.

What do you most appreciate in your friends?

Their wine cellars.

Your favourite qualities in a dish?

Simplicity.

A cook?

Being humble and a willingness to learn.

A wine?

Balance, drinkability.

Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)?

Ken Dryden is top of the list; cried as a kid when he retired. The guy inspires me.

Farrah Fawcett, Jeremiah Towers, my dad.

He died when I was a kid and he was a good cook.

Who would cook?

Pot luck, or we could all cook together.

I’d make Jeremiah wash the dishes.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

Awesome, namaste, just breathe.

Current culinary obsession/exploration?

Lately it’s been a lot of research on diners

Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you?

On my very first day of culinary school Keith Thomas showed us how to make mayonnaise. It was my aha moment.

I didn’t know what a professional chef was. He had a white hat, white apron, white jacket, white clogs, oh my fricking god! I used that example in my convocation speech. I call it my mayo moment and I still talk about it today.

Mentors?

Ultimately, the ingredients are my mentor and the farmers, ranchers and artisans who grow them. Bernard Casavant, still my chef; Kerry Sear, my chef at the Four Seasons Vancouver, who opened my mind to the art of food.

Charles McDiarmid from the Wick, who allowed me to think about what’s actually possible.

Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food?

Chips, chips, chips.

Philosophy?

Gotta be a good neighbour. Buy local, eat and drink local, buy shoes at your local shoe store, support your community.

What’s next?

Sunny’s is immediate, we are actually postponing the opening so I can be at NAIT. A catering operation, we are revisiting bringing fine dining back to the Okanagan. I am looking at buying a farm to grow fruit and vegetables, maybe eggs for the restaurants and the ability to do funky dinners. Another book is on the horizon. And soon I’ll be gardening and introducing a new puppy to my 14 yearold Golden, Sunny.

R E L E A S E T H E F L AV O U R ST ALBERT

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 15

Beer Guy Free the Beer

IS ON THE AIR! A podcast about food and drink recorded in Edmonton and hosted by Mary and Amanda.

soundcloud.com

Make More With Less: 29 April, NAIT Hokanson Centre eatalberta.ca

“Maybe choose some terrific Alberta craft beer instead.”

– Premier Rachel Notley, announcing a ban on BC wine.

They’re calling it the War of the Rosés.

BC wine vs Alberta bitumen. Don’t be smug, beer drinkers, the Premier hinted BC beer might be next. Fair warning; I'll give up my BC IPA when you take it from my cold, dead hands.

Some question Premier Notley’s choice of wine as a retaliatory measure. But alcohol and politics have always made a potent brew. The Reinheitsgebot, or Bavarian Beer Purity Law of 1516, ensured quality German beer, but it also acted as a trade barrier, keeping other European beer out of the German market. Canada’s Constitution Act, 1867, states that “All Articles of the Growth, Produce, or Manufacture of any one of the Provinces shall be admitted free into each of the other Provinces.”

Yet, 150 years later, barriers impede the free flow of beer and wine between provinces.

There’s hope. In 2012 Gerard Comeau struck a blow for freedom by driving from his home in New Brunswick into Quebec to save a few bucks on beer. In what is known as the Free the Beer case, Comeau was charged with illegally importing beer. Comeau believed he did nothing wrong; “You’re a Canadian citizen and the Constitution gives you the right to go buy your merchandise wherever you like in the country and take it home.”

In 2016 a New Brunswick court agreed with him. The case was appealed to the Supreme Court of Canada and in December 2017 government lawyers from across Canada argued against the lower court ruling, with New Brunswick arguing the ruling “threatens the very basis of Canadian federalism.”

On the other side, the Court heard from advocates in favour of liberalizing interprovincial trade, including the Alberta Small Brewers Association.

16 March April 2018 | The Tomato

Beer drinkers say, “Free the beer! Let Canadians drink what they want!” A ruling is expected in spring 2018.

Closer to home, the War of the Licence Plates between Alberta and Saskatchewan ended when the Saskatchewan Government said their complaint about Saskatchewan companies not being able to bid on Alberta construction projects was actually all about Alberta’s ‘discriminatory beer pricing’.

I guess, in the end, everything is about beer.

What Saskatchewan referred to are changes made by the Notley government to the tax markup on beer sold in Alberta. Initially they created a graduated mark-up based on the size of the brewery before moving to a uniform mark-up rate of $1.25 per litre. That’s uniform, as in level playing field. As well, smaller Alberta breweries can apply for a grant that offsets the mark-up. The markup change is one of a series of regulatory and policy changes made first by the Redford government and accelerated by the Notley government. Redford removed the minimum brewing capacity regulation in 2011. Following the 2015 election Notley changed mark-ups, allowed for brewery tap rooms, permitted beer sales at farmers’ markets and assisted with marketing efforts. Municipal governments in Calgary and Edmonton followed suit, making it easier for breweries to open and to locate in busy commercial zones.

Perhaps what galls Saskatchewan is all this government intervention has worked. In 2012 there were only 10 breweries in Alberta. At the start of 2018 there were between 60 and 70 operating or soon to open Alberta breweries. Over half of the breweries have opened in the last two years. So, take Premier Notley’s advice — choose some terrific Alberta craft beer, then raise a glass and say, “Thanks Rachel.”

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Coulee Brew Co: House of Pilsner, Lethbridge Opened January 2016. In 1901 Fritz Sick, a German immigrant, founded Lethbridge Brewing. He began brewing Old Style Pilsner in 1926, and it was brewed in Lethbridge until 1991.

Coulee makes a clever reference back to Pil with this beer, reimaging the classic German-style Pilsener for today.

Brauerei Fahr: Fahr Away Hefeweizen, Turner Valley Opened February 2018. Brauerei Fahr is the brainchild of Jochen Fahr, PhD, a former German biotech engineer, who aims to brew classic German beer in picturesque Turner Valley. His hefeweizen is sweet but balanced, with Weihenstephan yeast imparting banana and clove aromas.

Citizen Brewing: North West Pale Ale, Calgary Opened September 2017. One of a handful of stylish Calgary craft breweries that opened in 2017, with a 50 seat tasting room with great food from their food truck just outside. Their quaffable American pale ale has enough hoppy punch to pair nicely with a burger or cubano sandwich.

Siding 14 Brewing: Brakeman Brown Ale, Ponoka Opened June 2017. Field to glass — that’s the exciting concept behind Siding 14. A barley farmer, hop farmer and a brewer walk into a bar...

The barley comes from just north of Ponoka, the hops from Penticton.

Their brown ale shows off that Alberta barley — malty, biscuit goodness.

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Town Square Brewing: Cornerstone IPA, Edmonton Opened November 2017. Town Square is located in Edmonton, in that mysterious land south of the Henday, near Summerside. They call themselves a community-based craft brewery, where people can come together to discuss ideas... (wait, this sounds like a library branch!). Cornerstone is a juicy IPA in the modern mode, hopped with Citra.

Peter Bailey might just spend his summer visiting Alberta breweries.

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 17

Tuscany through a chef’s eyes Daniel Costa and Micah Joffe cook at Podere Panico.

Marco Grillo Photography

18 March April 2018 | The Tomato

Daniel preps in the kitchen at Podere Panico.

“It’s great to be cooking in Italy with one of my chefs. It’s such a one-on-one experience. When we get there, we go to the markets to see what’s in season, what looks great.

Later we’ll take the group, discuss what we are going to cook, have coffee together, then cook together (or watch and drink wine if they like.) We see the countryside, which is much different from the cities. It’s so beautiful — all this rosemary growing right outside of the kitchen; the flock of sheep walking on the hills.

I love the idea of exposing people to the Italy I love, so they can see it through my eyes. These recipes bring the experience home.” –Daniel Costa, Corso 32

Crostini de Fegatini Chicken Liver Crostini This is absolutely my favourite crostini of all time, especially during the fall and winter months. Chef Patrizio at Villa Capezzana taught me to add Vin Santo, which adds an element of sweetness that balances perfectly with the salty capers and anchovies. There is so much depth in this recipe and it is very versatile when pairing with wine. Try serving it on grilled polenta an alternative to bread.

200 g cleaned chicken livers, patted dry 1 lg

red onion, peeled and sliced

4 T

unsalted butter

1 T

extra virgin olive oil

1 T

capers

3 fillets oil-preserved anchovy ½ c

Vin Santo

½ t

red wine vinegar

kosher salt

pepper

Heat the 2 tablespoons of butter and ½ tablespoon of the olive oil in a smallmedium sized pan over medium heat.

Add the onion, a pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper. Cook until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the anchovy and capers. Continue to cook until the onions begin to lightly colour, remove from the heat.

In a separate large pan heat the remaining butter and oil over medium-high heat.

Once the pan is very hot add the livers and a pinch of salt. Cook on one side for approximately 5 minutes or until golden, turn the livers and cook for a additional 3 minutes. Add the onion mixture to the pan, stir to incorporate. Add the wine and cook for another 5 minutes or until the wine has reduced by half. Add the

vinegar, stir to combine. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 20 minutes.

Place the liver mixture in a food processor, pulse until almost pureed but not smooth, season to taste.

Serve at room temperature on crostini.

Serves 4-6.

Ribolitta Vegetable and Bread Soup Ribolitta, which means to reboil, is traditionally made by cooking leftover soup with day-old bread. The bread absorbs all of the delicious flavours of the soup and becomes a thick hearty bread stew. I especially love drizzling high-quality olive oil over this and eating it warm rather than hot.

1½ c dried cannellini beans or white kidney beans, soaked in water overnight

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1 lg bunch black kale, washed, stem removed and roughly chopped 1 lg carrot, peeled and medium diced 2 ribs

celery, medium diced

1 med red onion, peeled and medium diced 1 med fennel bulb, medium diced 6 cloves garlic, whole but peeled 1 Parmigiano rind 2 handfuls day-old bread ripped into small pieces 3 T double concentrated tomato paste ¼ c extra virgin olive oil 9 leaves

fresh sage

kosher salt

black pepper

Place the pre-soaked beans in a medium-sized pot with enough water to completely cover them. Add 4 cloves of garlic and 3 fresh sage leaves, cook for about 1 hour or until tender. Add more water if necessary, stir occasionally.

In a medium sized pot heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, fennel and remaining sage, season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook until lightly golden (about 15 minutes), stir frequently. Add the remaining garlic and continue to cook for an additional 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, stir frequently. Add the cooked beans, kale, and parmigiano rind. Add enough water to just cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer.

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 19

Micah and Daniel take a break.

Tuscany Continued from page 19

Allow to cook for 45 minutes, add more water if needed. Add the bread to the soup and allow to cook for 5 minutes, add more water to keep it a thick stew consistency. Allow the soup to rest for 10 minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with a generous amount of high-quality extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 4-6.

Insalata di Carciofi Artichoke Salad with Lemon Olive Oil and Parmigiano This salad is unique and very easy to make. It is important that you use the freshest artichokes you can find to ensure your salad is tender and full of flavour. As a variation I like to serve this salad on top of thinly sliced bresaola (air cured beef ). There are both spring and fall artichokes.

12-16 fresh baby artichokes, cleaned to the heart and choke removed

and pepper. Toss with your hands until the artichokes and arugula are lightly dressed. Season to taste. Place the salad on a platter. Grate a generous amount of Parmigiano over the salad and serve immediately.

food processor with a spatula to ensure all is pureed consistently. Add the lemon juice and cheese. Pulse until combined.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with your desired cut of pasta and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a antipasti.

Serve 4-6.

Pesto di Cavolo Nero Black Kale Pesto

Pici Impasto Pici Dough

This is a variation of a delicious recipe I was taught by Chef Patrizio at Capezzana Vineyard in Carmignano, Tuscany. I especially love this pesto tossed with fresh gnocchi but it works well with any shape of pasta. Note: cavallo nero is also called Tuscan kale; long green-black leaves as opposed to curly bright green leaves, creamier flavour. Tuscans believe the best kale comes after the first frost.

Pici, which originated in Siena, are long thick hand-rolled noodles that resemble fat spaghetti.

I have always loved the chewy texture of pici especially when paired with a thick rich ragu!

You can also make many other shapes of pasta with this dough such as orecchiette or cavatelli.

2 bunches black kale (approximately 300 grams), washed, stems removed, leaves roughly chopped ¾ c pine nuts 1 c freshly grated pecorino Romano

handful arugula

½ c freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

1 lemon

1 c extra virgin olive oil

extra virgin olive oil

Parmigiano Reggiano

2 med cloves garlic, peeled and finely grated

kosher salt

black pepper

Thinly slice the artichokes and place in a large bowl, add the arugula, lemon juice, a generous drizzle of olive oil, salt

20 March April 2018 | The Tomato

juice of 1 lemon

Place the kale, pine nuts, garlic and the olive oil in a food processor. Pulse the mix to your desired consistency. You may have to stop and scrape the sides of the

200 g

semolina

200 g

“00” flour

200 g

tepid water

Place both types of flour in a bowl, stir to combine. Place the flour on a work bench and make a well in the center of the flour. Pour the water in the well and begin stirring with your hands slowly incorporating more flour into the water until a dough is formed. Kneed the dough until smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and allow to rest for 15 minutes at room temperature before using.

To make the pici, cut off ¼-piece of the dough (rewrap the remaining) and roll out to ¼-inch thick. Cut the dough into ¼-inch thick strips. Roll the strips into

thick noodles. Place the noodles onto semolina dusted bake sheets and place in the freezer until ready to use.

Serves 4-6.

Ragu Cinghiale Wild Boar or Pork Ragu I love the idea that wild boars wander through the juniper and laurel trees, the wild rosemary and vineyards of Tuscany. The Italians brilliantly used these wild ingredients to make a delicious ragu. I was once told by a chef “if it grows together it goes together”. This recipe is the perfect example of that ideology.

500 g wild boar or pork shoulder, coarsely ground or chopped 3 T extra virgin olive oil ½ medium carrot, finely chopped ½ red onion, finely chopped 1 rib

celery, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, left whole but peeled 1 bottle

Chianti wine

2 28-oz cans San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand 1

bay leaf

10

juniper berries

1 lg

rosemary sprig

salt pepper

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed, medium pot over medium-high heat.

Add the meat to pot and cook until the

meat begins to colour. Add the carrot, celery, onion, garlic, bay leaf, juniper berries, rosemary, a pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper.

Continue cooking until the vegetables begin to colour and a light fond has developed on the bottom of the pot. Add the red wine, cook until the wine has reduced by half (roughly 5 minutes).

Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil, lower to low-medium heat, continue cooking for 2 hours with the lid ajar or until the meat is tender, add a little water if the ragu becomes too dry. Remove from the heat. Remove the bay leaf, rosemary sprig and garlic cloves. Allow the ragu to rest for a minimum of 30 minutes before using.

Serve 4-6.

Pici con Ragu di Cinghiale Pici with Wild Boar Ragu

1 T whole peppercorns 1 sprig

fresh rosemary

1

bay leaf

kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 325ºF. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based medium pot. Brown the meat in batches over medium-high heat. Once all the meat has been browned, return the meat to the pot. Add the tomato paste, garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, salt, pepper and red wine. Stir to combine. Add a little water to ensure the meat is just covered with liquid (you may not need to add water). Cover with the lid and place in the oven. Cook for 3½ hours, or until the meat is falling apart. Allow the meat to rest in its braising liquid for at least 30 minutes before serving. Serve with sliced Tuscan bread.

Serves 4-6.

Torta di Olio D’Oliva Olive Oil Cake

1

batch pici

½ batch

wild boar ragu

Parmigiano Reggiano

1½ c

all purpose flour

extra virgin olive oil

¾ c

semolina

1¾ c

sugar

1½ t

kosher salt

½ t

baking soda

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the pici and allow to cook for 5-6 minutes or until tender. Meanwhile bring the ragu to a boil in a large wide pot. Using a slotted spoon or spider add the cooked pici to the ragu along with a cup of the pasta cooking water. Continue to cook until the ragu is reduced and coating the pici, stir frequently.

Serve immediately with freshly grated Parmigiano and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 4-6.

Peposo Red Wine and Black Pepper Braised Beef This historic dish comes from the little town of Impruneta 15 kilometres outside of Florence.

Tuscan butchers have told me that the traditional recipe does not sear the meat but I prefer the extra depth of flavour you get from this method.

1 kg beef chuck, cut into large cubes 2 T extra virgin olive oil 8 cloves garlic, left whole but peeled 1 bottle Chianti wine 2 T double-concentrated tomato paste (stirred into ¼ cup of water) 1 T coarsely ground black pepper

Comfort food created from scratch and made with love

½ t

baking powder

11/3 c

extra virgin olive oil

1¼ c

whole milk

3 lg

eggs

1 T

orange zest

1 T

lemon zest

¼ c

fresh orange juice

¼ c

Limoncello

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter and flour a 9-inch spring form pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper.

In a bowl whisk the dry ingredients.

In another bowl whisk the remaining ingredients. Add the dry ingredients to the wet, whisk to combine.

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Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake for 30 minutes, rotate, bake for an additional 30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. The cake should be risen and golden. Allow the cake to rest in the pan for 5 minutes, remove the cake from the pan and allow to rest on a wire rack for 30 minutes before serving.

Serve with a drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 6-8.

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 21

On the podium from left: Eric Gonzalez, Alex Chen and Barry Mooney. Winning dishes from left: silver, gold and bronze.

Canadian

Culinary CHAMPIONSHIPS

2018

The Canadian Culinary Championships (CCC) brings together the 11 winners of regional Gold Medal Plates competitions from sea to sea. This year medalists also spanned the country — Alex Chen, Vancouver nabbed the gold; Eric Gonzales, Montréal, won silver and Barry Mooney, Halifax, took the bronze. Our Gold Medal Plates champ Shane Chartrand just

missed the podium, but it was a fabulous effort from Shane and his crew.

Gold Medal Plates is dedicated to raising the profile of Canadian food and wine and raising money for Olympic athletes — over $13 million to date for the Canadian Olympic Foundation. It’s always a treat to go to the CCC in Kelowna, even more so in an Olympic year.

Mary Bailey, Edmonton CCC Judge

22 March April 2018 | The Tomato

Bronze: Chef Barry Mooney, Gio, Halifax Grand Finale Pairing: Benjamin Bridge NV Brut Rosé, Gaspereau Valley Two weeks after flying back across the country from Kelowna to Halifax, Barry Mooney said he still has “little shivers going through me” when he thinks about becoming the first chef from Nova Scotia to end the Canadian Culinary Championship with a spot on the podium.

Having watched such Nova Scotia luminaries as Ray Bear, Martin Ruiz Salvador, Renee Lavallee and Mark Gray place no higher than fourth over the years, it was a pleasant surprise to see Mooney perform so strongly, especially considering the fact he stepped in fairly late in the process to replace his boss when she became unable to complete at the Halifax GMP event.

Mooney went west vowing not to overcomplicate things, and stayed true to that in the wine pairing part of the competition, serving a succulent pork cheek when almost everyone else went with seafood. Giving him oysters in the black box was almost unfair, so often does he serve them at Gio, and two of our most seasoned judges declared his rabbit the best in the competition.

As for his gala dish, starring smoked pork consommé and ham hock terrine, Mooney says “I’ll be proud of that until I die.” In Halifax, we feel that way about him.

Bill Spurr, Halifax, CCC Judge Silver: Chef Eric Gonzalez, L’Atelier Robuchon, Montréal Grande Finale Pairing: Painted Rock 2013 Syrah, Okanagan Valley Eric Gonzalez is no ordinary chef. A native of southern France, one can say that he grew up in a garden of sorts. At least, close to a garden since his mother often cooked from the immediate home environment all that she could get her hands on. And if not, everything that came from the local seasonal market: olives, lemons, fruits, vegetables, fish, cheeses. And that proximity to the sunny nature of Provence has always inspired his cooking.

He was trained and worked in some of the most prestigious houses of the country, Loiseau in Burgundy and Chibois in Cannes were his first masters and no doubt, major inspirations. Then at age 27, in his first job as chef, he obtained

his first Michelin star. From then on, he lived — and certainly cooked — as a nomad in some of the major restaurants of the time, from Luxemburg to New York, and ended up in Montréal some 18 years ago. After many remarkable stints in the city, he took charge a little over a year ago of the L’Atelier Robuchon, named after the most starred chef in the world, Joël Robuchon. For his participation in the CCC, Gonzalez prepared a silky piece of Alberta bison loin, sculpted like a yinyang sign, paired with freshly seared foie gras, a purplish blackberry coulis around a mound of squash puree, specked with flecks of edible gold leaf. A stunner!

COMING APRIL 2018

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Robert Beauchemin, Montréal CCC judge Gold: Chef Alex Chen, Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar, Vancouver Grande Finale Pairing: Sea Star 2016 Ortega, Pender Island Kelowna is the hospitable city of the CCC, but it has not proven to be a home field advantage for previous British Columbia competitors, adding only more pressure in the kitchen. However, this year the exceptional culinary skills of Alex Chen and his talented brigade prevailed against all others. His experience in other competitions (a top 10 finish at the 2013 Bocuse d’Or in France, a bronze in the 2016 CCC) contributed to his cool and confident demeanor and impressive execution of three outstanding dishes.

Sprinting out of the gate in the Mystery Wine challenge, chef Chen composed an exquisite and expensive looking (on the frugal $500 Mystery Wine Challenge budget) terrine of Albacore tuna, side stripe shrimp and scallop with an apple and watermelon radish in a fragrant sunchoke dashi broth, which matched well with the 2016 Fort Berens Pinot Gris’s aromatics. Chen’s Black Box dish was a winner — rabbit loin with stuffed mousse of leg meat, pan-fried flax seed-coated oyster and a wonderfully vibrant crisp slaw of apple, feta and kohlrabi. The Grand Finale demonstrated his passionate and continuing search for culinary perfection.

His menu not only listed the five species used but also the area of catch and the boat and captain. What a delight for supporters of Ocean Wise sustainable seafood. It was a truly memorable delicious dish by the hometown hero who prevailed in Kelowna. Congratulations chef!

Sid Cross, Vancouver CCC Judge

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 23

Feeding People It’s tradition!

Making pyrohy was always a thing in our family.

My mom would dictate the day and time (always bright and early, since it was inevitably a full-day process), and my three sisters and I would reluctantly but obediently report for duty. Fingers ready (and hands washed), we’d assume our positions around the table. We’d pinch. And we’d pinch. And we’d pinch some more.

I was completely oblivious to it at the time, but my mom wasn’t just taking advantage of cheap labour. She was also passing down a tradition, one that her mother had passed down to her.

This tradition was also something I didn’t appreciate for a very long time.

Given my mother’s penchant for marathon cooking and baking sessions, fun didn’t exactly enter into the equation. Making hundreds and hundreds of anything tends to zap the fun right out of it. Making pyrohy was no different.

Over the years, though, she did manage to mold us into effective and efficient little pyrohy-makers. Although the making was a chore, we were always more than happy to consume copious quantities.

Christmas Eve day was always our most memorable and prolific pyrohy-making session. And the feast that followed was equally memorable: platters piled high with pyrohy (always cottage cheese), juicy rings of baked kielbasa, the mandatory butter and onion and sour cream and homemade beet pickles.

Vegetables were not a priority (or even a thought).

After leaving home I had no desire to make pyrohy. At family gatherings that my mom ruled over, I had no choice.

But in my own home, in my own kitchen, no way.

24 March April 2018 | The Tomato

Then I had kids.

To be honest, it wasn’t just having kids that did it, although that was a motivating factor. It just so happened that around that time my never-ending supply of homemade pyrohy suddenly (and sadly) dried up. My mother deemed herself officially done.

Meticulously uniform perogies that came in a bag from the local supermarket just didn’t cut it. I wanted homemade pyrohy and the only way I was going to get them was to make them myself.

I have to admit it was a bit of a process.

Although I had pinched what seemed like millions of pyrohy I hadn’t actually made the dough, or rolled it out.

Or the filling.

It turns out my mom had passed down the tradition of pinching and eating but not the actually making of those pyrohy.

Fortunately, it wasn’t as difficult as I originally feared. Perhaps just being around the process had helped me absorb more than I’d thought. Maybe it was in my genes. But my guess is, making pyrohy wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had convinced myself it would be.

Modifications to my mom’s method were definitely in order. More than a few modifications.

The dough recipe, for one, was in desperate need of an update. My mom’s dough was insanely finicky and impossible — quite possibly the reason I had never actually attempted it. I stumbled upon the easiest, most userfriendly sour cream dough ever — a dough that even ten-year-old me could have made and rolled out.

The filling also needed some work. My mother only made a cottage cheese filling, which in truth was dry and bland (that’s why copious amounts of

Jan Hostyn

never my activity of choice, it did have its moments. It managed to get us all together in the same room where we laughed, cried, gossiped, teased, hugged and pinched and created a lot of memories.

butter, onion and sour cream sauce were in order). Now cottage cheese never gets stuffed inside mine. Instead I use a mixture of potatoes, aged cheddar and sautéed onions (although ricotta, spinach and feta also make appearances).

There will come a day when I will be officially done and I have no doubt that both my daughters will continue the tradition. Making their own modifications to everything I do wrong, of course.

500 ml

sour cream

Actual technology has also crept into my technique. I use a round cookie cutter to cut uniform, easy-to-work-with circles out of the dough. My mom? Never. She was happy to take a knife and slash an array of haphazard squares, rectangles and triangles in every size. Pinching them was a nightmare.

2 eggs

Frantic, all-day sessions were also not something I cared to relive. Sorry Mom. Mine get made ahead of time, on a relaxed schedule and in very manageable quantities. Then I pop them into the freezer. Come Christmas Eve (or whatever the occasion), I just pull them out, plop into a pot of boiling water and, voilà, dinner.

Makes enough dough for 3 dozen pyrohy.

And veggies actually make an appearance at the dinner table now.

The biggest modification to the whole process? Making pyrohy is something I actually look forward to. My two daughters and I can spend hours filling and pinching and chatting.

Looking back, I’ve come to realize that even though pyrohy-making was

Evviva!

Jan’s Pyrohy Dough

1 t

salt

3½-4 c

flour (I usually use 4)

Beat eggs and cream together (with a fork is fine). Add flour and salt. Let sit for an hour at room temperature and then roll out to about ⅛-inch thickness. If sticky, add more flour.

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 25

Wine Maven

Rocio Osborne (Bedegas Montecillo) and Lana Heiman (PMA Canada) at the Matrix Hotel.

Rocio Osborne is the sixth generation in her family in the wine business. If that is a crushing obligation, you would never know it, she wears the responsibility lightly, bringing a fresh, modern and smart energy to her role at Bodegas Montecillo.

Seedlip is here! The British-made non-alcoholic spirit is creating raves across Europe and the US. Non-alcoholic spirit; how is that you say? This is how they do it — the herbs and botanicals are cold macerated in neutral grain spirit and water. Then, each is distilled in a copper pot. The alcohol is removed before blending and bottling. The result? A bracing tonic with intense and pure flavours, yet, without the alcohol. Seedlip suggests a long drink with tonic but we bet Edmonton’s creative barkeeps will be coming up with some cool cocktails using this unique drink. Try the woodsy Spice 94 made with oak, cascarilla bark, green cardamom, allspice berries, lemon and grapefruit peel, or the floral Garden 108 with spearmint, rosemary, thyme, hops, spring peas and hay. It’s priced at $45/700ml, but, remember, a little goes a long way.

Available at Sherbrooke Liquor, in the gin section.

26 March April 2018 | The Tomato

It’s the right time. There is a quiet revolution going on in Rioja now, with changes to the laws that govern wine growing and making along with investments in vineyard and equipment with an eye to restoring the lustrous reputation Rioja once held.

At Montecillo that means a new winemaker, Mercedes García, hired in 2008, who works closely with vineyard manager, Carmelo Espinosa Muga, who in turn works with the independent growers who supply fruit to the venerable house.

The proof is in the bottle. The newer vintages display all the hallmarks of great Rioja, ageability, complexity and gravitas, but are fresher, cleaner and more vibrant with ripe, super silky tannins, balance and terrific flavours.

I am all for obscure and hard to find wines, made in tiny amounts, but it’s gratifying to see that reliable big houses with great reputations are not coasting — not just maintaining but upping the quality of their offerings.

Brava!

Mary Bailey

Stephen Spurrier has been in the wine trade for many decades, as a merchant, impresario (1976’s Judgement of Paris) writer and educator. Now, he can add wine estate proprietor to the list. He has planted the classic Champagne varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier on the chalky, south facing slopes of his wife’s sheep farm in Dorset, England.

The first harvest was 2011. The 2014 is now available here. The Bride Valley Brut Reserve is a fine bubble, elegant, precise and very tasty.

The Chardonnay-forward blend (55 per cent Chardonnay, 25 per cent Pinot Noir, 20 per cent Pinot Meunier) is present in the refined aromas of biscuit on the nose and lemony flavours. It’s not a profound nor particularly complex wine, yet it’s elegant and beautifully balanced with a lovely crisp acidity and tiny bubble. Loved this wine.

There is also a Blanc de Blancs and the Rosé Bella (named after Mrs. Spurrier). I hope we see these soon.

Around $60 at better wine shops.

Another bubble worth seeking out is the new Fitz Brut sparkling from Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards at Greata Ranch. Gordon Fitzpatrick is no stranger to the wine business, having shepherded Cedar Creek into the top tier of Okanagan wines before selling to Mission Hill a few years back.

The family kept the Greata Ranch property near Summerland, purchased in 1994, where they had planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, ideal for a sparkling wine project. Recently they have also planted Meunier to complete the classic Champenoise trio. The philosophy does depart from Champagne on one key difference — the wines are single vintage. The idea is to reflect the vintage and the estate, not blend the wines to a house style.

In the cellars are two reserve wines, Blanc de Blancs and a 100 per cent Pinot Noir Rosé, on their lees. We look forward to the release. The Fitz Brut, under $35, is available at Wine & Beyond.

EVENT CALENDAR THURSDAY, MARCH 1

MONDAY, MARCH 19

Downtown Dining Anti-Freeze Tour $89/p+, edmontondowntown.com

Alumni Chefs Popup Series with Meuwly’s, $30/p+, cash bar, Ernest’s at NAIT, 780-471-8685 or email twright@nait.ca

MONDAY, MARCH 5 Alumni Chefs Popup Series with chef Andrew Fung, Nineteen, $30/p+, cash bar, Ernest’s at NAIT, 780-471-8685 or email twright@nait.ca

TUESDAY, MARCH 20 Mead Demystified Tasting, $30/p+, Aligra Wine & Spirits aligrawineandspirits.com

FRIDAY, MARCH 9

Barone Francesco Ricasoli at the Glass Monkey.

Barone Francesco Ricasoli of the historic Chianti estate Castello Brolio has an interesting, and refreshing, view on the huge investment the family has undertaken to improve quality. “It doesn’t necessarily make the wine better but it helps us reduce the number of mistakes we make.” The project mapped all the soils, allowing them to practise more precise viticulture. The results are in the bottle.

From the basic Chianti Brolio, to their single crus, the wines communicate honesty, gentle winemaking, terroir and vintage in every sip. The biggest surprise? The wines not generally associated with Chianti — the Torricella Chardonnay, elegant and lovely, food friendly and ageable. The oak is subtle, helping to provide backbone for the pristine fruit. The single cru Casalferro is, surprisingly, Merlot. And what a Merlot!

The 2015 is already displaying the elegance associated with this wine, fresh and subtle, silky-textured with firm tannins, high acidity with beautiful balance and long finish.

It’s too young to drink now, cellar for at least five more years. The Chianti Classicos — Brolio, Rocca Guicciarda and Bettino offer increasing levels of complexity and beauty.

Available at better wine shops.

Hops & Whisky Fundraiser for Nina Hagerty Centre for the Arts, $89/p+, Royal Glenora Club, 780-474-7611 or eventbrite.com.

THURSDAY, MARCH 22

FRIDAY MARCH 9-18

MONDAY, MARCH 26

Downtown Dining Week edmontondowntown.com

Prairie on a Plate Dinner at Chartier $75/p+, Chartier, eventbrite.com

SATURDAY, MARCH 10

THURSDAY, APRIL 12

Taste of Prince Edward Island, $110/p Ernest’s at NAIT, 780-471-8685 or email twright@nait.ca

Barging in Burgundy Presentation with Wine & Cheese, Aligra Wine & Spirits, aligrawineandspirits.com

THURSDAY, MARCH 15

TUESDAY, APRIL 17

Alberta Pork’s Swine & Dine with Bench Creek Brewing, $75/p+ Royal Glenora Club, eventbrite.com.

Argentina & Chile – Wines from Both Sides Now Tasting, $35/p+ Aligra Wine & Spirits aligrawineandspirits.com

Culmina Dinner with special guest Don Triggs, Workshop Eatery $116.85/p+, eventbrite.com

SUNDAY, MARCH 18 Cavern Cheese School: A New Take on Pairing Fundamentals, $75/p+ Cavern, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca

SUNDAY, APRIL 29 Eat Alberta Conference, More with Less, $150/p+, NAIT, eventbrite.com

The Tomato | March Apri 2018 27

The Spanish Road Trip Harold Wollin story and photos

28 March April 2018 | The Tomato

It’s midnight by the time we pull out of the rental lot in our sweet ride: a brand new Fiat 500.

“Si,” she says. “A las ochos.” I pull out my phone for a quick Google Translate to see if we like ochos.

The streets of Malaga are deserted. We’ve just arrived from Edmonton via Iceland and London, and have been awake for more than 24 hours. We’re hungry, but we can’t find anywhere open to eat, so we go to bed without dinner. But on the bright side, we have a parking spot near our hotel.

We book into a casa rural and settle in to wait for dinner. The lady in the apron’s daughter, Camila, introduces herself as she serves us the first beer. That leads to another until some time later she asks if we are ready for dinner.

We’re carrying big data packages, and Google Maps has features like saying no to freeways, tolls and ferries.

The show terrain feature helps us find the mountains so we can find the twisties. We’ll avoid big cities because we love the drive more than the traffic.

The first day takes us out of populous Andalusia and towards Portugal, into the cork oak forests of Extremadura, home of the black pigs destined for succulent jamon Iberico. By 6pm, we are hungry enough to consider catching and barbecuing one of them pigs. We see a restaurant sign and pull in. It appears deserted so we belly up to the bar and wait for someone to notice. The kitchen door opens and the smell of cooking wafts around the lady that steps out wiping her hands on her apron.

“Hay comida?” I ask.

“We open at 8pm,” it tells me. A twohour wait.

“Si!” we say. She rattles off a bunch of Spanish at us.

We’re easy and hungry. We nod and agree. She laughs and beckons us to follow through a door, into a narrow dark hallway, past the busy kitchen on the right. Then through another door we are suddenly in a busy bustling restaurant.

We were sitting in the bar!

She points to a table and returns with a bottle of wine, a basket of fresh bread and a delicious garbanzo and tripe soup. A green salad follows, then I’m presented with the conejo, which I must have ordered, my partner gets the lomo de cerdo. His pork chop is fried perfectly, and the succulent braised rabbit has me using my bread to wipe up every drop of the delicious sauce.

I notice neighbours looking askance.

Am I committing a food pas? I couldn’t care less because both the bread and the Please see “Road Trip” on page 31

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The Tomato | March Apri 2018 29

30 March April 2018 | The Tomato

shops and restaurants everywhere. It’s sunny, kind of warm and high noon.

It’s too early for a restaurant, so we’re thinking picnic. From a panaderia we choose a loaf of outstanding artisan bread, and from a quesaderia, a few types of Manchego, some chorizo and of course, jamon Iberico. A healthy diet requires some greens, so we pick out a variety of olives.

Road Trip Continued from page 29.

sauce are awesome. Camila mentions that el arte de mojar, which Google translates loosely as the art of dipping, is cool again; it even has a Facebook page. Another bottle of wine appears.

Suddenly it’s 11pm and we’re alone in the restaurant.

Next morning we continue on our journey. At a café bar we stop and order “dos café con leche por favor”. Aren’t we just speaking Spanish already! It comes with a mini lemon muffin in a plastic package. Wolfing it down, we ask if we can order breakfast. The bartender smiles and tosses us a second mini lemon muffin in a plastic wrap. Breakfast isn’t big in Spain; the mornings are for café con leche and Twinkies; the afternoons for espresso or café solo. Meal times are strictly enforced. We’re learning.

Eventually we turn the corner above Portugal and head to the coast. Galicia is everything the guidebooks describe.

Picturesque rolling hills by the sea with brightly painted houses, there are coffee bars, bakeries, cheese stores, butcher

A nearby bodega offers too many options but we do our best to stock our Fiat’s wine cellar. The sidra artesanal catches my eye so we take a couple flagons of that too. Our tablecloth is the bag the bread came in. We break out the corkscrew, two glasses and a folding knife, all bought at the tienda beside the bodega. Now this is a road trip!

Eventually we crave the city lights.

We choose A Coruña for our urban experience. This involves a half hour of bumper cars and super tight navigating as we hunt for a parking spot near our hotel. We end up in an underground lot which costs as much as the hotel.

As we walk through the centre, we’re surrounded by chic city folk, young

and old, shopping and enjoying the gastronomic pleasures of Galicia. We make a new rule. One restaurant — one drink — one tapa — repeat!

our visit to A Coruña, and caved in to

First stop is called Pulpiera Maria Pita, where fresh octopus, draped over glassware, beckons from the window.

Next stop we polish off a pile of fresh, succulent steamed mussels with some chilled Albariño, the next has razor clams in garlic butter. Then we see a cooler in front of a restaurant. Inside, a whole beef loin. A sign says how long it has been aged, and the temperature and humidity gauges seem to work. We’ve blown the wad on parking already and, we’re on vacation. We finish the night with a gigantic, perfectly-cooked T-bone steak, washed down with a Rioja Gran Reserva.

Catalonians were marching that day.

We are in twisty heaven as we drive across the north coast and through the Basque mountains. The narrow roads wind through colonial villages and past hilltop castles and continue through the Pyrenees. We stop for a few days at the northeast corner of Catalonia, in Cava country. We’ve seen enough traffic in

rail from centre to centre. But if it’s

Bilbao for a peek at the Guggenheim, so we decide to skirt Barcelona. Lucky break for us, as close to a million We hunt for windmills as we follow the Ruta del Don Quixote across the plains of Spain. The scenery is reminiscent of Saskatchewan and we wish we had rented our car in Barcelona as the next three days take us back to Malaga in what seems like a straight line.

Without a lot of research, a road trip through Spain is less likely to be a gastro-tour, but it will be a taste of the culture. The menu del dia offers a price-worthy glimpse into the style and flavour of each region. The urban experience is best served by riding the forests and farms, vineyards and olive groves, fruits and vegetables, or windmill chasing that strikes your fancy, nothing beats the drive.

Harold Wollin is the owner of the Blue Chair Cafe.

Bigger. Better.

BBQ.

Northlands

June 16-17, 2018 Father’s Day Weekend porkapalooza.ca

The Tomato | March Apri 2018 31

Kitchen Sink restaurant buzz Prepare to dine out during Downtown Dining Week, March 9-18. This event, presented by the Downtown Business Association, gets bigger and better every year, with multi-course menus — two-course lunches, $18, threecourse dinners, $30, or an executive dinner priced at $45 — at every sort of restaurant. It’s a great way to check out a new spot or return to an old favourite.

Visit edmontondowntown.com to discover all the participating restaurants and menus.

The Calgary breakfast phemon OEB is coming to Edmonton. OEB will open soon in the Kelly Ramsay Building downtown and later in the North 53 space on 124 Street. OEB, helmed by Mauro Martina, has been knocking it out of the park with its large and cheerful menu in Calgary since 2009.

Looking forward to the new look, new menu and new name at Sage at River Cree. Expect barnwood and a whole lotta local provisioning. With Gold Medal Plates champ and exec chef Shane Chartrand at the helm you know it’s going to be good.

Check out the new Buco in Windermere (1249 Windermere Way, sorrentinos.com). Buco features tapaslike bites called assaggini, antipasti, pasta and pizza cooked in a birchwood-fired stone oven. It is the thin Neopolitanstyle pizza, which takes experience and precision to get right. Carmelo and Stella Rago opened their first restaurant in Castledowns almost 40 years ago.

Now the family (including their four sons) operates several Sorrentino’s restos, caffes and the Bistecca Italian Steakhouse. The first Buco opened in St. Albert in 2015 and the third opens soon in the Epcor Tower. Go Ragos!

After seven years of business Corso 32 (10345 Jasper Avenue, 780-421-4622, corso32.com) is renovating. “We are very excited to reopen with what I think is a more elevated experience for our guests and staff.”

32 March April 2018 | The Tomato

wine tastings happenings and events Upcoming tastings at Aligra Wine & Spirits (8882 170 Street, 780483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com): Tuesday, March 20, Mead Demystified, 6:30-9pm, $30/p; Tuesday, April 17, Argentina & Chile – Wines from Both Sides Now, 6:30-9pm, $35/p; Thursday, April 12, Barging in Burgundy Presentation with Wine & Cheese, 7pm, no charge but a reso is required.

Visit aligrawineandspirits.com to book.

Love whisky? Don’t miss the Hops & Whisky Fundraiser for Nina Hagerty Centre for the Arts at the Royal Glenora Club (11160 River Valley Road), Friday, March 9. Sample an impressive selection of craft beer and whisky and enjoy delicious food from executive chef Steve Buzak’s crew. There is special VIP Master Class before the main event. Tix: $89+/p, 10 packs, $790. Lexus of Edmonton Master Class, $25, eventbrite.com, or the Nina Hagerty Centre, 780-474-7611.

Visiting Kelowna but no time to travel south? Taste wines from the members of the Okanagan Falls Winery Association (Blue Mountain, Meyer Vineyards, Painted Rock, Pentâge, Synchromesh and 11 others) without leaving Kelowna, Wednesday, April 11, 6:30-9pm at the Hotel Eldorado (500 Cook Street). Tix: $59/p, ofwa.ca.

Taste of Prince Edward Island fundraising dinner for Edmonton CHEFS Junior members, Saturday, March 10, 6pm, at Ernest’s at NAIT (10701 118 Avenue). Enjoy five courses with wine pairings. Tix: $110/p all in, call 780-471-8685 or email twright@ nait.ca to reserve.

The Alumni Chefs Popup Series at NAIT gets under way with chef Andrew Fung of Nineteen, Monday, March 5, 5:30-8:30pm. On Monday, March 19, taste Meuwly’s outstanding charcuterie, sausages and preserves, 5:30-8:30pm.

Tix: $30, cash bar. Email twright@nait. ca to reserve.

Love beer? Love pork? This dinner will make you very very happy. Alberta Pork’s Swine & Dine with Bench Creek Brewing is at the Royal Glenora Club (11160 River Valley Road) Thursday, March 15, 6:30pm. Enjoy five Bench Creek beers with four courses.

Yes, there will be pork belly. Tix: $75/p, eventbrite.com. Book soon, they always sell out quickly.

Cavern Cheese School: A New Take on Pairing Fundamentals, Sunday, March 18, 2-4pm, $75/p+ at Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern. ca). Stay tuned for the sparkling wine Cavern cheese school in April.

Don’t miss the Culmina dinner at the Workshop Eatery (2003 91 Street SW, 780-705-2205, theworkshopeatery.com) on Thursday, March 22, 6pm, with proprietor Don Triggs. Five exquisite Culmina wines with four courses, by chef/owner Paul Shufelt and crew. Tix: $116.85/p all in, eventbrite.com.

Check out the Prairie on a Plate long table dinner at Chartier (5012 50 Street, Beaumont, 780-737-3633, dinechartier.com) Monday, March 26, 6pm. Chef Steven Brochu creates a four-course dinner highlighting Chartier’s producers. Tix: $75/p+, eventbrite.com.

Eat Alberta is back at NAIT’s Hokanson Centre for Culinary Arts, Sunday, April 29, 10:30am-5:30pm.

The one day conference, themed More with Less, features butcher Elyse Chatterton, chef Blair Lebsack, RGE Rd and the pickle maker with all the mojo, Johwanna Alleyne of Mojo Jojo Preserves. Visit eatalberta.ca for all the deets. Tix: $150/p, eventbrite.com.

A Cappella Catering debuts their brand spanking new food truck Curbside by A Capella at the spring sale at Sundance Ski & Snowboard Shop (4745 Gateway Blvd), 10am-5pm, Saturday, April 7. A new ski jacket and a terrific lunch at the same time. How efficient!

cooking classes Class line-up at The Pan Tree (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631), Tuesday, March 6, Tortas; Mexican Sandwiches with chef Israel Alvarez; Wednesday, March 7, Vegan Italian with chef Sarah Foster; Tuesday, March 13, Easy Bread Making with chef Richard Toll and Tuesday, March 27, Knife Skills with chef Richard Toll. Book at thepantree.ca.

The Blue Flame Kitchen has several kids camps (for children 9-12) in March and April. They are half-day classes from 9am-noon and cost $50+/p each. Baking Camp, Thursday, March 1 and Thursday, March 29; Italian Feast, Friday, March 2 and Wednesday, March 28; Mini Pies, Monday, March 26; Mediterranean, Tuesday, March 27. Call 780-420-7282, or visit atcoblueflamekitchen.com to book.

culinary travel Fascinated by India’s food and culture?

Join gregarious and knowledgeable chef Vinod Lohtia on the North India Culinary Tour, October 31-November 13. The tour includes a special Diwali holiday experience. Also included are cooking lessons and demos, tours of old and new Delhi, temples, mosques, bazaars and markets, historic forts, great local restaurants and the Taj Mahal.

Visit toureast.com for all the deets.

product news The Pan Tree (#550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park, thepantree.ca, 780464-4631) wants us to know that Le Creuset is launching a new colour called Blueberry with a more indigo tone, which is replacing Marseille. And they have new hours, Thursday 10am-6pm.

Looking for ham for the Easter weekend? Acme Meats (9570 76 Avenue, 780-433-1812, acmemeatmarket.ca) will have both bone-in hams and smaller, rolled boneless hams called nuggets. Best to

what’s new and notable

PRESENTED BY:

pre-order by March 23 to make sure you are not disappointed.

GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY

Irving’s Farm Fresh (Old Strathcona and Salisbury Farmers Markets, 780672-2787, irvingsfarmfresh.com) offers whole, half and quarter bone-in hams, both hickory smoked and unsmoked, which the Brits call a gammon joint.

They also offer nuggets. Nicola Irving suggests ordering by March 9 for the best selection, especially if you also want bacon for Easter brunch.

How much ham will you need? If it’s a bone-in ham allow ¾ lb per person. For boneless ham allow ½ lb per person.

That should also allow for some leftovers for sandwiches. Do keep in mind what Dorothy Parker said: ‘Definition of eternity? Two people and a ham.’

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to hello@thetomato.ca.

• Celebrity Chef Dinner • Make & Take Gardening Workshops • Culinary Walking & Biking Tours • FREE Demonstrations & Mini St. Albert Farmer’s Market • Dig In Dining Week

may 1-6, 2018 Get YOUR TICKETS! diginstalbert.ca

diginstalbert.ca

The Tomato | March Apri 2018 33

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The TomatoFood Food and Drink The Tomato & Drink Kitchen Awards 2018 KitchenDesign Design Awards

Built a new kitchen lately?

Proud of it?

The Tomato Food & Drink Enter your Kitchen Design Awards kitchen in the

Tomato

Kitchen Design Awards (TKDA) TKDA is open to architects, builders, contractors, designers, developers, and do-it yourselfers, offering awards in several categories, including outdoor kitchens.

See submission rules and regulations at thetomato.ca.

Submissions Open Friday March 9, 2018 Submissions Close Friday May 4, 2018 Winners will be featured in the July/August issue of The Tomato, online at thetomato.ca and in all press releases and materials related to the TKDA.

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