Take a bite of your city | May June 2017 | thetomato.ca
Chefs doing cool food things
Brad Smoliak
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Contents Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net
Features
Publisher BGP Publishing
Copy Editor
6 Chefs Doing Cool Food Things Cooks in the retail food business | Mary Bailey
Shauna Faragini
Contributing Writers
Peter Bailey Julie Peglau
Illustration/Photography Boccabella Photography Curtis Comeau Photography Emilie Iggiotti Photo styling Robin Jones, MCJ Events.
Inspired by El Cortez
Design and Prepress
16 Pruning Grapevines Extreme viticulture for extreme climates | Julie Peglau
18 Mom and Pop Recipes Chefs pay tribute
Advertising Sales Shauna Faragini
14 Your very own Cinco de Mayo Party
20 Women in Wine Italian style | Mary Bailey
Bossanova Communications Inc.
WebMeister
Departments
Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist
Printer
5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town
Distribution Greenline Distribution
How not to be a wine monagamist | Mary Bailey
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The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December
12 Drinks 24 Feeding People Asparagus: the crisp, sweet, earthy taste of spring
26 Wine Maven Mary Bailey
32 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
34 Beer Guy Sweet dreams are made of this | Peter Bailey
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On the cover: Brad Smoliak of Kitchen by Brad, photographed by Curtis Comeau.
thetomato.ca
Celebrating Edmonton’s
20 YEARS
Food Culture Since 1996
BBQ
Season
Grilled salmon, yum!
We’re at the Downtown Market starting
May 20
Quality
Antipasto. (ahn-teh-PASS-toh) This is Italian for ‘starter’. It’s time to celebrate summer with family, friends and outdoor feasts.
Now, can someone please explain what a wine stopper is for?
Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park
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WILD
Seafood OCEAN ODYSSEY INLAND 10019 167 Street www.oceanodysseyinland.ca 780-930-1901
Dish
gastronomic happenings around town
tapestry farm, a new csa
inspire your cooking
Anna Brown and Dustin Donavan bought 80 acres in Beaver County in December. “It wasn’t ideal that it happened in the middle of the winter,” says Anna, “but we were able to check out the Government of Canada maps done in the ’70s to see what kind of soil we had.” Tapestry plans vegetables for their first CSA and eventually livestock and eggs as well. What’s been planted under grow lights? Cabbage, broccoli, chives, marigolds, nastirtiums, borage, red lead lettuce, Swiss chard, kale, parsley, peppermint and dill. “We will try to offer 12 different items each week,” says Anna; “with lots of culinary herbs and salad mixes.” Like a lot of farmers, Anna has a full time job off the farm for the financial security. “I knew that this was what I wanted to do but I’ve seen so many of my friends who are almost through the season when the money runs out. I couldn’t stand that.” tapestryfarm.ca
This cookbook features stories and recipes from 21 Canadian chefs, Vikram Vij, Connie DeSousa, Jeremy Charles, Antonio Park, Roy Oh—recipes with a focus on seasonality, balance, freshness and flavour. The carrot Bolognese (with rutabaga spaghetti!) and eggplant tomato green curry are in weekly rotation and the dark chocolate tofu cream will make you think again about chocolate pudding. I cooked from this book for a more personal reason. Last year, I met Adrian Brijbassi at an event at Banff Springs. He said he was working on a cookbook; could he send it for review? Of course! I didn’t know at the time that the book had begun with his wife. She had been diagnosed with an aggressive brain cancer (the same one that has afflicted Gord Downie) and had worked with a BC organization called InspireHealth. She was a gifted photographer and Adrian became the editor of the project. Julie died last year; Inspired Cooking is her legacy. Now available at inspiredcooking.ca and select retailers.
mayday, mayday, a real hot dog stand Coming mid-June to the Mercer Building is Mayday Dogs, Justin Benson’s (Farrow) new hot dog joint. “Every single person I meet has a hot dog story,” says Justin. Mayday’s story starts with a Canadian-made gluten- and nitrate-free beef hot dog in six different combinations, fresh buns from Vienna Bakery daily, milkshakes, (not boozy, that’s not allowed under AGLC rules, a shame) tater tots, tall cans of beer and cider, even wine in a can (Underwood) and a chef ’s special once a month. The first chef ’s dog will be from Daniel Costa. Mayday will be open Tuesday – Friday from 5pm and Saturdays from 12pm. Closed Sunday Monday.
break the wishbone We are looking forward to the opening mid-May of Wishbone, Brayden Kozak and Brian Welch’s (Three Boars) new restaurant on Jasper Avenue. “We had been looking at this space (formerly Mrkt). I like the long skinny look and wanted to have an open kitchen,” says Brayden. Shaun Hicks will be the general of both Three Boars and Wishbone and responsible for the bar. Expect a smallish cocktail list, an approachable (aka affordable) and unconventional wine program with Sherry and less well-known grape varieties taking top billing.
sip your way across alberta
No word on the menu yet. “I did want to open an oyster bar but the seasonality of seafood kept us from doing that. It will be more about seafood and vegetables.” The name? “People have been asking me if we are going to be a turkey restaurant. We were looking for something that didn’t mean anything, but gave you a feeling. Brian came up with it, that feeling of family dinner, breaking the wishbone.” Wishbone will have about 50 seats, dinner only for now. Closed Sunday and Monday, eatwishbone.ca.
Photos from top: Inspired Cooking; seedlings at Tapestry Farm; the gen-u-ine article; Wishbone’s Brayden Kozak; Sippin’ Alberta Craft Beverage Trail Guide 2017.
Curious about the burgeoning craft beer scene? Want to experience a distillery tour? Crazy about mead? Find Alberta craft breweries, distilleries, fruit wineries and meaderies in the Sippin’ Alberta Craft Beverage Trail Guide 2017. The handy guide divides the province into six regions and offers hours of operations, directions and tour info, along with stories about the makers and their products. Sippin’ Alberta is available for download at albertaculinary.com. The print version will be available at Travel Alberta Visitor Information Centres after the May long weekend and at all stops along the trail.
The Tomato | May June 2017 5
Chefs doing
cool food things
not
in restaurants Mary Bailey
6 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Rebecca Grant, Violet Chocolate Company Debbie Boccabella photo
People become chefs because they like to cook and they like to feed people. Usually it looks like this: culinary school; apprenticeship; work their way up in a kitchen; become a chef; maybe start their own place. The hours are terrible and the pay? Not so great. Some cooks still want to feed people but not down that path. They start food businesses. It could be to bring in some extra income, or to have a creative outlet. To create a work schedule more suitable for family life or to scratch an entrepreneurial itch.
time and doing chocolate full time. Back then I was making 50 bars a day. Now we make anywhere from 400-800 depending on the season.” Violet has a seasonal collection every six months along with Christmas (the Advent Calender sold out in days) and Easter specialties. Their best seller is the honey rosemary dark milk. Big this Easter were the charming Meltaway Eggs, six flavours in white, milk and dark chocolate, packaged in a see-through egg carton. Does she have retail plans for Violet? “We’re talking about it, but we’re not rushing it. Somebody said we should open a chocolate truck. I’d love to be in the perfect space, a retail shop, with production space attached.”
Find Violet Chocolate at the City Market Downtown on 104 Street, Swish Flowers, Evoolution, Tix on the Square, Makers Keep, Barking Buffalo Cafe, Harlow, Wish List, Carbon and online. the-violet-chocolate-company.myshopify. com.
he is a research chef, helping companies develop foods such as the next bestselling product for a grocery store or restaurant chain. Kitchen by Brad is also the place to enjoy an intimate winemaker dinner, take a cooking class or have a bespoke event in the handsome kitchen studio space.
Brad Smoliak, Kitchen by Brad
“Kitchen came from a desire to get back to the roots of why we have dinner,” says Brad, “to enjoy other people’s company and good food.”
Brad Smoliak had spent 10 years cooking in restaurants (Brad and his wife Leanne opened the Hardware Grill with Larry and Melinda Stewart). Life intervened. Parents of a young son, they decided that the restaurant biz was no longer for them. Brad went on to be the culinary director at Trail Appliances and ran Alberta House during the Vancouver Olympics. Now,
The two faces of Kitchen, the dinner parties up front and the private client activities in the back, sometimes come together.
Continued on next page.
One thing we know for sure, these chefs are still making really tasty food.
Rebecca Grant, Violet Chocolate Company NAIT Culinary grad Rebecca Grant started The Violet Chocolate Company five years ago selling chocolate bars at the City Market Downtown on 104 Street; Now her chocolate wins international awards. “I don’t remember chocolate in culinary school, says Rebecca. “When I graduated in 2008 I wasn’t thinking chocolate, though I remember talking chocolate with Peter Johner when I apprenticed at Pack Rat Louie.” (Violet uses Swiss Felchlin chocolate, as did Peter.) “A wedding cake business was the original plan. I attended Bonnie Gordon Confectionary School in Toronto to learn wedding cake design. I worked at the Manor and was the head chef and manager at Health Fare in downtown Edmonton. It was a brand new business and the experience taught me a lot about what not to do. But when I started to do the design and production at Kirstin’s Chocolate, I fell in love with chocolate. “It’s a unique medium to work with, creative, yet with this science side. And the hours are much better than being in a restaurant.” The business is named in honour of her childhood pet, Violet the golden retriever.
Brad Smoliak, Kitchen by Brad Curtis Comeau photo
“I was also taking management and marketing at NAIT. It was a three-year program so I was going to school full
The Tomato | May June 2017 7
Continued from page 7
“Let’s say we’re developing a sauce for a retail customer,” says Brad. “We might serve a version of it at a party at Kitchen and get some instant customer feedback.” Other times it’s just Brad fooling around and coming up with great flavours. Take his first big hit—Brad’s BBQ Rub. The signature rub, made with chilies, garlic and brown sugar, is a pantry staple. Try it on your next chicken bound for the roaster. Or, the Devil’s Butter. This savoury concoction of butter, horseradish, spice and garlic is the perfect balance of heat and creaminess slathered on potatoes, a steak, or in a grilled cheese sandwich. A peek into the cooler rewards the curious—tubs of crème fraiche, whiskey caramel sauce, hot fudge sauce, ready to go home with you. His work as a research chef gives Brad the food science knowledge necessary to create high-quality products the way he wants to. “There are a lot of products out there with a lot of crap in them. We make products without fillers, or things like calcium silicates.” The most exciting thing? “What I love about what I do is that I’m face to face with our customer. We had a dinner last night for 20 people. I got to talk to every single one.” Kitchen by Brad is at the 124 Grand Market May long weekend to October long weekend, Friday’s for Meatball Madness, 11:30am-1pm and some Saturdays, kitchenbybrad.ca.
Stuart Whyte, Original Red Head Condiments Chef Stuart Whyte is a hot sauce master, who knows how to create flavour along with the heat. “I was working at Maenam in Vancouver. They made this Thai fermented pork sausage, which got me interested in fermentation, so I started fermenting things. I was trying to figure things out and find something to revitalize my love of cooking, so I made a hot sauce program for the Pourhouse in Gastown. One day a customer asked for the red head’s sauce.” The name stuck.
8 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Stuart Whyte, Original Red Head Condiments Curtis Comeau photo
“When I moved here, I was working with Steve Furgiuele at Culina, trying to show him what I could do by making these hot sauces and salsas.” His tasty hot sauces started perking up the plates at Culina. “I wasn’t planning on doing this, it just kind of happened,” says Stuart. “People started to ask for it, and now I don’t think I can step away.” The Roja is a pureed salsa with roasted tomatoes, apple cider vinegar and seven different toasted and ground chiles. It has a deep and robust flavour and smoky heat. The Verde, made with fresh tomatillos, jalapenos, spice mix, garlic, honey and apple is tart and refreshing with a pure jalapeno heat. The Jalapeno Leek sauce is made with leeks, garlic and jalapenos that have fermented for a month. It’s savoury, garlicy, with lots of flavour, not just heat. The Hops Honey Mustard is made with dried hops from Bent Stick brewery, mustard seed, honey, vinegar, salt and spices. The Original Red
Head Thai chili and garlic fermented hot sauce is the hottest. It will blow your mouth off, depending on your Scoville unit tolerance level. Delicious on grilled cheese or with fatty meats. He’s a reluctant sauce maker still working full time as a chef. “It’s a side business for now, we’ll see how it goes this summer.” Buy at Riverside Golf Course, the Local Omnivore and online at originalredhead.ca.
Mary Anne Korn, The Happy Camel Mary Anne Korn’s story is proof that there is life after the kitchen. I met Mary Anne when we worked together a million years ago in a restaurant. We met again at the Westin; then Mary Anne and her husband Ron opened Hemingway’s on 124 Street, which they ran for five years. It was then she asked herself, “do I really want to be doing this when I’m 40?” She moved to
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Continued on next page.
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Mary Anne Korn’s Happy Camel dips and pita.
The Tomato | May June 2017 9
Continued from page 9
the front of the house; became a food and beverage manager; took some time off to have a baby; wrote recipes for Company’s Coming. When it was bought out, she was laid off. That might have looked like a deadend to someone else. Not to Mary Anne. “I had always done a bit of catering and one of my customers owned Cook’s
Peter Keith and Will Kotowicz, Secret Meat Club, Meuwly’s. Curtis Comeau photo
10 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Corner. We made a deal and they sold the dip part of that business to me. Then we bought out The Happy Camel.” Her husband Ron (also a chef ) joined her in the business full time this year. The puffy pita bread, labneh, tzatziki, various hummus and cream cheesebased schmears (the smoked salmon is my go-to) have legions of fans. Yes, she is back in the kitchen, but completely on her own terms.
You can find Mary Anne’s tasty dips at The Happy Camel market stand in the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market and at three summer markets, including the City Market Downtown on 104 Street; at The Happy Camel store on the south side of the Callingwood Mall; at the Bon Ton Bakery (under the Bon Ton label); the west end and north side Italian Centre Shops (under the Cook’s Corner label); at Planet Organic, Blush Lane,
Andy’s IGA and The Kabob House. She also makes some gluten-free products for Nourish, happycamel.ca.
Peter Keith and Will Kotowicz, Secret Meat Club, Meuwly’s Peter Keith and Will Kotowicz first met at Café de Ville. It was Peter’s first job out of NAIT Culinary, where he had gone on a full scholarship. “I was an apprentice at Café de Ville,” says Peter.
“Will was starting to explore that whole world of fermented and cured meats. I remember thinking, this guy is going to be a master. “We have been thinking about this for seven years. What drew me was Will’s incredible passion for learning; he’s gifted. He wants to know everything about these meats.” They both went on to work in several kitchens, Jack’s Grill, The Marc, Fairmont Hot Springs. Will ran the kitchen at Duchess and also worked at a packing house, Sangudo Meats and Artisan Meat Share in Charleston. “We had our first daughter when I was 23, I became a chef when I was 24; a second daughter came along,” says Will. “It was always tough to balance family commitments and work hours on a chef ’s salary. “I started Upson’s to make extra income. The meat, at first, was a way to create value in-house in the restaurants I was working in. The more research I did, I realized it could be a business.” Will and Peter invited us over to taste some meats earlier this year—honey ham, dry-cured anise and fennel sausage, pepper salami—deeplyflavoured, clean and (an odd word to use when you are talking about a cured product, perhaps) fresh tasting. My most recent Secret Meat Club delivery had dry sausage, a toothsome lightly smoked bacon and pâté, as well as pickled grapes, fermented onions and a really delicious herbed mayo. What makes their products different? “It’s more about what we don’t use;” says Will, “liquid smoke, maple flavour crystals, potato starch. We are salting, drying, curing, fermenting. Nothing is bulked up with water or starch. And we start with high quality meats, pasture raised pork from Bear and the Flower Farm.”
The good news? Meuwly’s. The Secret Meat Club will transition into an actual deli, named after Will’s grandfather, on 124 Street this fall. Expect to find all sorts of charcuterie, ham, salami, and other hand-made local products. You can also find their products on the menus at Bar Clementine, District Cafe & Bakery, La Boule, Meat and Three Boars. secretmeatclub.com
Will Kotowicz and Shaun Hicks, Upson’s Classic Lemonade and Cordials Will Kotowicz and Shaun Hicks, general manager of Three Boars and Wishbone, created a lemonade concentrate (which they based on a family recipe of Will’s grandfather) when they were working together at the Enjoy Centre. The idea that it didn’t need to be refrigerated appealed to other restaurants and they garnered wholesale accounts. The Upson’s lineup includes the original lemonade, lavender grapefruit with Salt Spring Island lavender, rose lemonade and bitter orange with burdock and dandelion root. New this year is apple cider and they are working on a honey ginger lemon cordial. The cordials are lovely with sparkling water, or in a cocktail.
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What is most exciting to Will right now is the commercial kitchen they put together to make Upson’s, which is available for other chef ’s side projects. “We know the roadblocks we had and we want to see other people do cool stuff in Edmonton,” he says. Find Upson’s at Color de Vino, Elm, Ernest’s at NAIT, District, Little Brick, Meat, Next Act, Northern Chicken and in Calgary at Brasserie Kensington and the Cookbook Company. Mary Bailey likes the Upson’s Grapefruit with gin. @tomatofooddrink
Let’s have the bad news first. “The Secret Meat Club is fully subscribed,” says Will. “We have a long wait list.”
The Tomato | May June 2017 11
k n i r D & ood to FDrinks
s d r a w A n g i s e D n e h Kitc
a m o T e Th
The Tomato Food & Drink
Kitchen Design Awards Submissions close:
How not to be a wine monagamist Monogamy is a wonderful thing for marriage. For wine? Not so much.
The wine world is huge. Italy grows hundreds of local grape varieties (wine geeks call them autochthonous, meaning native vitis vinifera grapes, a high score word for your for next Scrabble game). Georgia claims over a thousand.
Handy tips when making substitutions: • Stay in the same price range. We have all been in that uncomfortable spot: the wine we usually buy is $23 and the one the salesperson is holding is $29. Hand me three similar wines in the $20-30 range? Now we’re talking, choice is good.
k n i r D & Food
• You don’t have to stay in the same country or with the same grape. We are talking similarities in style, not trying to replicate an exact flavour (see Handy Substitution Chart).
s d r a w A n g i s e D n e MayTomato 19, 2017 h The Food & Drink c Kit o t a m o T Wednesday, The
Kitchen Design Awards
And you want to drink only Malbec?
It’s easy to get into a wine rut. Go to the store and pick up the same bottle. Check out that wine list for the one or two names you recognize. Be true to your brand.
But, we don’t wear the same pair of shoes all the time. Why drink the same wine?
Well, people tell me they do it because it’s easy. They know what to expect; there are no surprises; they don’t have to think about it. It worked last time is the thinking. I get it. But, I’m here to tell you it doesn’t have to be that way. You can try new wines without a) breaking the bank, b) getting too far out of your comfort zone and, c) looking like an idiot when you try to pronounce the unpronounceable.
Finalists notified June 2, 2017 Find the full submission package at thetomato.ca Winners will be feaured in the July/August 2017 issue of The Tomato, online at thetomato.ca and in all press released and materials relaed to TKDA
contact hello@thetomato.ca 12 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Here’s How Play the substitution game Let’s say you drink Cabernet in the winter and Sauvignon Blanc in the summer and you have a go-to. What happens when the shop is out of your go-to? Think of it as an opportunity. Any self-respecting wine shop will have similar wines on the shelf—from New Zealand, Canada, USA, Italy, France, (though you might not know that at a glance because most French, not all, but most French wine is named after the region not the grape and maybe you don’t feel like a geography lesson right now.) Some stores and wine lists help play the game by grouping wines by flavour characteristics and style.
• Buy a few bottles at a time. Reason number one: taste memory is highly subjective. That great wine you had the other night? Was it really sublime? Or was it the food, the company, the atmosphere? Having a few bottles within a few days or weeks of each other helps you remember what you liked and why. Reason number two: saves time! • Allow yourself to like something new. Human beings don’t like new tastes. Not even every kid liked ice cream the first time they tried it. • Play with your food. If you are eating pasta from Puglia, drink a wine from southern Italy too, rather than your usual Chianti. • Ask your server for a recommendation. Be specific. Say something like: “I’d like a wine from the same region as this dish, or similar, in this price range.” And, if they can’t help you, think of going to a more wine-smart restaurant next time. Adopt the same technique in a wine shop. • Try not to be intimidated. Don’t get me started on snooty wine people. Wine is supposed to be fun. If you get attitude, (which in my experience is usually based on the fact that the individual is trying too hard to hide a lack of wine sense, because real wine people cannot wait to share and have fun with you) ask for the somm, or at least someone who knows something about the wines being sold. (If nobody knows? Drink beer.)
Mary Bailey
• Think about the climate of your go-to. Is it hot and sunny? Or is it a cooler climate such as Northern Italy? You can categorize wine by climate to find like-tasting wines. If you like Argentine Malbec look to other warmer climate wines first, such as wine from the Mediterranean and Australia.
Falanghina, Friulano, Fernão Pires (Luis Pato’s Maria Gomes). Most of the V grapes (Verdicchio, Vermentino, Vespaiolo, Vernaccia, Verdeho) could fall into this crisp and citrusy category without too much trouble. Try the Petit Bonhomme from Spain, under $20. I’m not saying they will taste exactly like your go-to but you find some new faves.
• The language barrier. Yes, it’s a drag and keeps people from trying new things. There is nothing wrong with pointing at a wine on the list and saying, ‘tell me about this.’ Staff at Corso 32, a super wine-saavy resto, tell me they think people always order Chianti and Amarone because they recognize it and can say it. If your server or salesperson asks if you need help, let them help you.
Chardonnay comes in two general styles; crisp and light-bodied (see above under Sauvignon Blanc) and a fullerbodied wine with rich flavours, lots of mouth feel, yet still dry. Try Macabeo (called Viura in Spain), South African Chenin Blanc, Fiano (rich and floral); Arneis and Cortese from Piedmont; whites from Jura, Pinot Bianco, Ribolla Giallo and Ramato-style wines from north-eastern Europe.
• Take a picture. Who remembers the year, the producer, the region, the country, the grape variety? Show the photo and you don’t even have to try to pronounce anything.
Gewürztraminer is spicy and usually, though not always, has some sweetness and texture. Try the I Love Mosel Riesling from Germany, Moscato or Malvasia, especially from Portugal.
• Like the label? You will probably like the wine. Seriously, there are worse reasons to pick a bottle off the shelf. I don’t believe those folks who say they would never buy a wine because of its label. They just don’t want to cop to something they think is superficial. It’s not. Wine people (even from the tiniest farms) work creatively to come up with a package that reflects what’s in the bottle, the fruit of their labour. The least we can do is pay attention. Go on! It’s a big wine world out there. Dive in! Handy Substitution Chart, Whites Sauvignon Blanc is aromatic, with grassy, citrusy and herbaceous flavours. This group of white wines could be your segue from the all-Savvy-all-thetime trap. (Here’s looking at you Kim Crawford drinkers.) Why? They are also crisp, fresh and aromatic, rarely have spent time in an oak barrel and are best serve chilled. Riesling (Bender Kulina, Germany) Gruner Veltliner (Gruber Röschitz from Austria); Muscadet, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris (Tinhorn Pinot Gris, Canada); Albarinho, Alvarhino, Grillo, Carracante, Pecorino, Biancame;
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Reds Grenache from the south of France, Spain and Sardinia (try the Santa Maria la Palma Cannonau de Sardegna), has the generous flavours, robust alcohol and soft tannins Malbec drinkers love. Or, go to the source, the French region of Cahors where Malbec is still called Cot, for wines like the stylish Gaudou Malbec Merlot, $20ish, Also, Barbera, Merlot, Primitivo, Montepulciano, Rosso Conero, Nero d’Avola and GSM from South Africa and Australia. Lower in alcohol and with more sprightly acidity but still soft and fruity is Piedmont’s Dolcetto. Pinot Noir Like French Pinot Noir? Try Mencia from Spain (Petalos) Spätburgunder or Zweigelt (Germany and Austria) Trousseau (Jura), Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Teroldego, Langhe Nebbiolo, Ruche, Frappato, Lacrima de Morro d’Alba and Cerasuolo di Vittoria, all from Italy. Like new world Pinot? Try these Italians: Corvina, Nero Mascalese and Nielluccio (Corsica). Please see “Drinks” on page 28.
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The Tomato | May June 2017 13
your very own
cinco de Mayo party inspired by el cortez
Photos: Emilie Iggiotti, styled by Robin Jones, MCJ Events.
14 May June 2017 | The Tomato
THE MENU:
A holiday marking the victory of the Mexican army over the French during the Battle of Puebla in 1862? We’ll drink to that. (As if we needed an excuse to drink margaritas and eat guacamole.) Here’s how they do it at El Cortez.
GUACAMOLE, GRILLED PESCADO TACOS FOLLOWED BY CHURROS
The party starts Friday, May 5 at 11am with drink specials and djs on both floors as well as the patio. Here’s how you can do it at home.
Guacamole 4
ripe avocados
50 ml
apple cider vinegar
THE COCKTAILS
6 cloves
minced garlic
125 ml
pico de gallo
Original Lime Margarita
juice and zest of 2 limes
1 bunch
chopped cilantro
T each
salt and pepper
tortilla chips
1.5 oz
Espolòn Tequila Reposado
0.5 oz
Patrón Citrónge
1.0 oz
fresh lime juice
0.5 oz
agave syrup
coarse white salt
lime wedge
lime wheel
Slice avocados in half and scoop out flesh using a small spoon. If serving immediately, discard pits. Otherwise, leave pits in to retain freshness and colour until serving. In a bowl, break down avocado flesh with a fork until mostly smooth. Mix in remaining ingredients. Season to taste and serve with tortilla chips.
Glasses your choice (El Cortez uses an 8 oz challis)
Fill shallow dish or bowl with salt. Run the lime wedge around the rim of your glass and dip the rim into the salt.
Serves 4.
Grilled Pescado Taco with Tropical Salsa and Habanero Mayo
Add all liquid ingredients into a cocktail shaker and pack with ice. Shake hard for about 10 seconds. Strain the ingredients into the glass. Add fresh ice and garnish with a lime wheel.
1 pineapple
Makes 1 margarita.
Zapatos Nuevos (New Shoes) 3-4
1-inch cubed watermelon
1.5 oz
Espolòn Tequila Reposado
.75 oz
fresh lime juice
.75 oz
agave syrup
corn nibs
1
red pepper
1 bunch mint leaves, roughly chopped 1
jalepeño (with seeds)
1
poblano (without seeds)
/3 c
shredded coconut
1
½ bunch parsley, roughly chopped ½ banana
few pinches coarse black pepper
½ c
large basil leaf
Muddle watermelon in a cocktail shaker. Add all liquid ingredients to the shaker and pack with ice. Shake hard for about 10 seconds.
2 t
salt
juice and zest of 1 lime
30 ml
agave syrup
Strain into glass, add fresh ice and garnish with a pinch of pepper and the basil leaf.
Cut all fruit and vegetables into equally small pieces, roughly the same size as the corn nibs. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl and cover. Refrigerate for 1 hour before using.
Makes 1 cocktail.
Makes 6 cups.
From top: Zapatos Nuevos cocktail; guacamole with chips; churros.
Please see “Cinco de Mayo” on page 23.
The Tomato | May June 2017 15
Pruning Grapevines: extreme viticulture for extreme climates Julie Peglau
Montreal, Canada: restaurants, culture, history, wine country. Wine country? Yes, wine country. Across the St. Lawrence River lies the historic Montérégie region where wineries and cideries flourish. The region stretches north to Chambly, east to Roxton Falls and south of Montreal to the New York / Vermont border, about one and a half hours drive in any direction. Wine has always been a passion. For ten years, I had the great fortune to sell wine in Edmonton to an amazing community of restaurants and wine stores. Since then, I completed an associate degree in Enology & Viticulture in Pennsylvania, specializing in cold climate conditions. The program was challenging, but I was lucky enough to intern with a great mentor, Larry Kennel, at the Vineyard at Grandview in Lancaster County. Now, I am the assistant winemaker at Vignoble Le Mas des Patriotes, a boutique winery located 40 minutes south of Montreal. It’s hard to believe that I’m heading into my fifth vintage of wine production, my third at Le Mas. I’ve swapped my heels for steel-toed boots, learned to drive a tractor and I’m often covered in mud or wine. It’s a lot of fun.
But, I invite you to cast aside the romantic notions you may have about being a winemaker. While there are truly magical moments, it is without question the absolutely hardest job I’ve ever had, incredibly demanding both physically and mentally. Being a winemaker at a small winery means that you pitch in wherever needed. In the springtime, that means pruning the vineyard. Pruning is an essential step in producing quality grapes. It’s not simply giving the plant a haircut. A grape vine is wild at heart and if left alone would grow out of control. As growers, we need to tame the vine, channel its energy and moderate the amount of fruit production so that not only will the grapes ripen properly, but also so the vine itself will be healthy enough to fend off pests, disease and winter injury. Pruning takes skill, patience and thoughtfulness. For the grapevine, pruning is the wakeup call that spring is here and it’s time to go to work. This makes the timing of pruning tricky. The vine will start running sap and preparing its buds to burst. The bud contains all of the grape vine parts; shoots, leaves, tendrils and grapes all in microscopic size. Once awakened, the buds are extremely cold sensitive, so spring frosts are a major worry. If the late winter is milder than normal or if a grower prunes too early, the vineyard could be devastated by frost. Wearing our parkas, we start pruning around April 1, when the worst of the cold is over and most of the snow has melted. By comparison, bud break has already happened in California two weeks earlier. Pruning creates a farmable vineyard and sets up the growing area on the vine.
16 May June 2017 | The Tomato
A vine is only capable of ripening so many clusters of grapes. This depends on several factors; vine age, health, variety, and climate. We must leave the correct amount of buds so that the plant can properly ripen the fruit, but not so many that the canopy is crowded. Both local weather patterns and regional climate play a role in pruning decisions. In our humid summers, grapes need both sunlight and air movement to reduce moisture and prevent disease. Leaving too few buds will actually cause the vine to produce more leaves, creating shade and reducing airflow resulting in improper ripening and favourable disease conditions. The way we approach pruning in a cold climate is far different from a warm climate like California. In fact, here in Quebec, we actually have two pruning seasons, spring and late fall. Our more cold-tender varieties, like Baco Noir, must be covered with tents or hay to withstand the low winter temperatures of -27 Celsius. This means that we have to prune them in November when they are entering dormancy, otherwise the vines wouldn’t fit inside the protective coverings. Vignerons around here call it extreme viticulture. Because of the harsh climatic conditions we face, like punishing winter temperatures and the looming threat of late spring frost, we also have to leave extra, or spare parts, on the vine. The grape vine has a lot of natural backup and self-protection systems, but it still needs help to survive and produce quality fruit. We have to make pruning decisions that are insurance policies for the vine. For example, we might grow a vine on two trunks instead of one, in case one dies.
There’s a lot to consider every time you make a cut on a vine. Not only are you setting up the growing area for this season, but for years to come. Rarely does a vine battered by our cold climate look exactly like a textbook diagram so you must understand the impact of your action or non-action. Sometimes, for the good of the plant you have to make extreme decisions and remove a trunk or saw off a cordon. Early in the pruning, we’re all a little nervous to make big choices. You’ll hear “grand décision?” called from another row. We’ll look at the vine and make a decision together. As the days pass, we grow more confident and there are fewer calls for help. It’s incredibly rewarding to finish pruning a row. When the entire vineyard is completed it’s a major accomplishment. It’s now May and by the afternoon we’ve peeled down to T-shirts, decorating the vineyard with our coats and vests along the way. The vineyard is alive with energy; bud break will happen at any moment and the vines will begin their journey. In Montreal, the terraces have spilled out into the streets and the tonic of warm sunlight enlivens the city. If I’m not too beat, I’ll dig out my heels and head to the Old Port to take in the sights and sounds of a city awakening to spring, enjoy a glass of rosé and the satisfaction of a hard day’s work. Former wine sales pro Julie Peglau now calls Montreal home and is living the dream of making award-winning wine.
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• MOM AND POP RECIPES •
The Taste of Home This was the question: Is there a dish that your mum or dad (or grandparent) made that you like to make? Or, is there a dish you make that reminds you of them? The response was practically instant. Every chef I asked had a story, a recipe, a memory. Happy Mom and Dad’s Day. Here’s to all the parents who like to cook and all those kids who grew up to be cooks. We thank you!
Cheddar Biscuits “We used to bake these biscuits when I would come home from primary school. They never lasted very long! My mum and I often cooked together, specially on weekends and school holidays. It will always be a very happy memory for me. Both my sister and I learned to cook because our mother encouraged us to prepare meals together—the kitchen was the center of our little cottage home.” –Christopher Hyde, Uccellino 4 T
room temperature butter
1 c good quality vintage cheddar cheese (grated)
Caldo Tlalpeno (Tlalpan Chicken Broth) “This is well-balanced dish; the aromas and flavours are still in my mind. It was one of my mom’s favourites and she used to make it every two weeks or so. Her kitchen was full of energy when she came back from the market. Every spoon of this broth was a gift from her heart. –Israel Alvarez, Comal Pop-up 1
skinless chicken breast
1
chicken carcass
1 or 2 bone-in chicken thighs (or equivalent) ½ T
fresh epazote leaves*
1 lg
carrot, roughly diced
1 lg
potato, roughly diced
1 or 2 med green zucchini, roughly diced 1 handful
green beans, cut in half
2 cloves
garlic, finely chopped
½ white onion, finely chopped
/3 c
plain flour
2 or 3 med tomatoes, dry-roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped
/8 t
sea salt
½ c
1 1
/8-¼ t chili powder (or smoked sweet paprika for a less spicy taste)
1
Cream butter until soft. Add flour, chili and salt. Blend well, add cheese, then form into a dough. Transfer to a lightly floured surface. Shape into a cylinder about 30 cm diameter. Wrap in wax paper, then refrigerate for 1-2 hours. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease 1-2 baking sheets with butter. Slice the dough into ¼-inch thick discs and place on baking sheets. Bake until golden for 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool. May be stored in a covered container for 2 days—but they will be gone in 2 days! Makes 30 biscuits.
18 May June 2017 | The Tomato
cooked chickpeas
kosher salt and black pepper to taste 2 T
cilantro, chopped
1 serrano or jalapeno, finely chopped 1 can chipotle chilies in adobo, seeded and chopped 1
lime, cut into wedges
1
avocado, diced
Put the chicken carcass, breast and thighs in a medium saucepan. Add 5 cups water, enough to cover. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the epazote leaves with stems and let it infuse for a few minutes (the broth should have a herbal taste like anis). Discard the epazote and add the potatoes, carrots, zucchini and green beans. Season with salt and pepper, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
Heat oil in a pan. Add garlic, onion and tomatoes. Cook over low heat, stirring once in while, for about 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the sautéed vegetables to the pan of chicken, stir well and add the chickpeas. Bring to a simmer for 15 minutes or so. Remove the chicken pieces from the saucepan and coarsely shred the meat. Discard the bones. Add chicken back to the saucepan. Add salt and pepper and adjust seasoning and remove the saucepan from the heat. Divide the soup into four bowls. Garnish with avocado, cilantro and chiles. Squeeze a lemon wedge to finish it. Serves 4 * La Tienda 9844 63 Avenue carries both dry and fresh epazote.
Risi e Bisi (Rice & Peas) “Every spring I always think of one special dish my late nonna would make. Both nonna Rosina and nonno Giovanni took great pride in their gardens. As soon as the spring peas were ready, nonna Rosina would make risi e bisi, a classic dish of the Veneto region. This is my spinoff of what nonna made.” –Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro
until garlic is light brown in colour. Add rice and start stirring; sauté for about 3 minutes. Add white wine and stir until it’s almost dry. At this point, slowly start adding your warm stock. Constantly stirring, as your risotto starts absorbing more of the liquid, add another ladle. Do not rush this process. Always keep the rice moving in the pot. When you get to the last cup of stock add your peas, jowl, and cheese. Stir everything in and taste your rice for seasoning. Adjust seasoning if necessary with salt. Also check the doneness of the rice. It should be al dente, not crunchy and not mushy. Add your mint and the dish is complete. It should be silky and have some slow movement to it but not soupy. Serves 4.
Salmon Gravlax “Growing up in a Scandinavian community, salmon gravlax made an appearance at every social get together from the Lucia Pageant to Midsommar. Everyone has their own take on this dish whether it contains herbs, spirits, what type of sugar and how much salt to use, but over the years and through many, many tastings, I have found my favorite.” –Kelsey Johnson, Café Linnea 1 side
salmon
2 T
olive oil
1 handful fresh dill
1
onion, chopped, small dice
1
grated beet
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 T
akavit
150 g guanciale (cured pork jowl) cubed
½ c
sugar
1 c
arborio rice
1 c
dry white wine
6 c
vegetable or chicken stock
1 c
fresh garden peas
¼ c fresh mint (optional, I love the mint with the peas) ½ c
grated Parmigiano Reggiano
In a large pot heat your stock. Heat oil in a medium pot on medium heat. Once oil is hot, add jowl and cook until just crisp. Remove jowl from the pot and reserve. Add onion and garlic and cook
1 c salt (I prefer Diamond sea salt)
Gently rinse the salmon on both sides and lay, skin side down, on a long sheet of saran wrap. Using a pastry brush, coat the flesh side with the akavit and top with the springs of dill and grated beet. Mix the sugar and salt together and cover the fish with the entire mixture. Wrap tightly with the saran and, with a sharp knife, pierce the package about 6 times or so, so that as the fish cures, the excess moisture can escape. Place the package in a rimmed container where it can lay flat and refrigerate for about 24 hours.
You can cure the fish longer for a more candied texture, up to 3 days maximum, or less for a fresher taste. Slice as thinly as possible and serve with hardtack, steamed potatoes, or any good bread. Serves 6 -8 depending on the size of salmon.
Spaghetti with Anchovy and Pangrattato “Actually, this dish is more about my father and I. It is one of the first dishes that my father taught me to make. I grew up on an acreage. We had a lot of vegetables and work to do around the garden. I remember eating this for lunch outside in the peak heat of the summer. I would pick the parsley, garlic and fresh pepperoncini from the garden and watch him prepare it. I remember eating this every summer with him as far back as I can remember. I would always get a cold glass of my father’s homemade white wine with a little 7up in it. As I grew up I started making this simple pasta as a late night bite. Sometimes my father would smell the garlic frying and we would have a plate of pasta together at 2am. Different variations of this dish are made throughout Italy.” –Daniel Costa, corso 32
Pangrattato 2-3 T
extra virgin olive oil
instructions). Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water. While preparing the pasta; heat olive oil over medium-high heat in a large deep frying pan (large enough to comfortably hold all of the pasta). Add garlic and anchovies, stir frequently and fry until garlic is golden. Add white wine and chili flakes continue to cook for 4 minutes. Increase the heat of the pan to high, add the spaghetti, the reserved pasta cooking water and the parsley. Cook for 1 minute in the pan, stir frequently. Once the sauce is just coating the pasta remove from the heat and toss in the pecorino. Divide the pasta between 4 bowls and sprinkle the pangrattato on top. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
garlic kosher salt
Gently fry the clove of garlic over medium heat with the olive oil until golden. Add the bread and a pinch of salt. Continue to cook until breadcrumbs are golden, stir occasionally. Remove the garlic clove.
–Brayden Kozak, Three Boars, Wishbone 1 lb
ground beef
/3 c
small dice onion
1
1 clove garlic, minced ketchup
¾ t
salt
¾ c
cornmeal
1 c
flour
3 t
baking powder
Spaghetti
1 t
salt
500 g
spaghetti
1
/3 c
white sugar
5 cloves
garlic, thinly sliced
1
egg, beaten
1¼ c
milk
¼ c
melted shortening
½ c
cheddar cheese, shredded
1 handful flat leaf Italian parsley, leaves removed from stems and roughly chopped 1 t chili flakes (add more if desired) ¼ c pecorino cheese, finely grated
extra virgin olive oil
1 glass
white wine
Bring a large pot of water to a boil with a handful of salt. Cook the spaghetti until al dente (about 1-2 minutes per package
Serves 6-8.
Chicken and Carrots “My adopted mother, God bless her, used to make this for me with love. What amazes me is that she had her way of knowing when to add spices and for how long she reduces a sauce, all without any measurements, it was all in her hands. This dish is close to my heart. Rest in peace moy-zohra.” –Medi Tabtoub, Vivo Ristorante Downtown 3 T
“Family dinner was always very important to my parents. My dad managed most of the cooking at home. Cheap, simple and delicious was how he rolled. This one was very much enjoyed by everyone, with three kids I suspect you kept popular recipes close. I made it last year for a staff meal at Boars and it was a smash hit. Don’t let the name fool you, it’s the furthest thing from what you would expect from a tamale, but it’s filling and very delicious.”
¼ c
6 salt-packed anchovies, rinsed and soaked in water for 10 minutes
To serve: Garnish squares with cilantro and serve with salsa and sour cream.
Tamale Pie
1½ c day-old bread ripped into small pieces 1 clove
pan. Layer all of the ground beef into the pan, followed by the shredded cheese and finally the remainder of the cornmeal mixture. Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the batter comes out clean. Let sit for 5-10 minutes before cutting.
Preheat oven to 350º F. In a large pan cook beef, onion and garlic until meat is browned. Drain off the fat. Stir in ketchup and salt. Set aside.
olive oil
2 sm red onions, thinly sliced lengthways 3 cloves garlic 2 t
ground ginger
½ t
saffron, in a little warm water
1 t
cinnamon
juice of ½ lemon
2 sm
preserved lemons
2 T
chopped parsley
1 sm
bunch fresh coriander
6
chicken thighs
3 T
green or violet olives
6 carrots peeled and cut lengthways into 4-inch long pieces (en bâtonnet)
Heat a Creuset pan or heavy-bottomed, shallow-lidded pan on low heat. Add the oil, followed by a layer of onion. Mash the garlic with ½ t salt and add to the pan. Sprinkle over the ginger, saffron water and cinnamon, followed by the lemon juice, and coarsely chopped pulp of one preserved lemon and the rind of both, cut into slivers. Add the parsley and 2 T of the chopped coriander and toss it all together well.
Generally this dish is served with either plain couscous or French bread to dip in the sauce. Serves 4-6.
Chocolate Chip Slab Cookies (Louise Sandford, adapted from the Best of Bridge Cookbook) “This is a recipe that is truly simple and so tasty! When I was a little girl, my mom used to make these chocolate chip cookies; my sister and I would go nuts over them. They were the perfect balance of crispy and chewy, and that’s really what food is all about to me, balance. I can’t remember a road trip where my mom didn't bring these cookies. (I can remember crosscountry skiing out at the Strathcona Wilderness Centre and thinking, maybe if I ski a little faster we can get back to the chalet for those cookies.) Honestly, there is nothing I would change or make more cheffy about these cookies. Sometimes a good thing is just a good thing! I will say that the recipe did make it to my little black book just in case I need to whip up a batch for staff dinner; chefs go nuts for these.” –Christine Sandford, Biera Resturant 1 c salted butter, room temperature 1 c brown sugar (demerara works nicely) 2 c good quality unbleached white flour 1 c chocolate chips or chopped chocolate (you can use any type of chocolate you like here)
Preheat oven to 350ºF. Line a 9½ x13” sheet pan with parchment paper, or just grease well with butter. Whip butter and brown sugar in a mixer for 5 minutes until really light and fluffy. This step is essential as you are basically making shortbread. Stir in flour, then chocolate. When smooth, pat dough onto cookie sheet. If your sheet is quite large, just pat dough over half the surface.
In two separate bowls, mix together the dry ingredients in one and the wet into another. Mix your liquid ingredients into your dry ingredients and combine thoroughly.
Arrange the chicken on top and scatter over the olives. Pour 175 ml water into the pan, cover tightly and simmer very gently for 30 minutes until the chicken is almost cooked through, add the carrots and cook for another 10 minutes.
Grease an 8x8” pan. Spread half of the cornmeal mixture into the bottom of the
Season to taste and top with the remaining coriander, chopped.
We think these would make outstanding ice cream sandwiches too. –ed.
Not too thick, not too thin. Bake for 22 minutes, or until golden. Cool a little then cut into squares. Makes 18-24 squares depending on size.
The Tomato | May June 2017 19
women in wine
Meet four women who are shaking up the status quo in that most traditional of winemaking countries, Italy.
Donatella Cinelli Colombini with Felix. “We were the first winery in Italy composed of only women.
story and photos by mary bailey
20 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Paola Rinaldini, passionate Lambrusco maker.
“I am interested in the message of wine in the world.” –Stella di Campalto.
DONATELLA COLOMBINI, THE PRIMA DONNA
ELENA PANTALEONI, THE QUIET REVOLUTIONARY
Donatella Cinelli Colombini makes stellar Tuscan wine, yet her example and influence reaches far beyond the cellar.
I had heard about Elena Pantaleoni, a women making wine in EmiliaRomagna her way. I had heard the wines were fantastic, but I had never come across them. Until last year.
Donatella inherited two properties, one in Trequanda and one in Montalcino, in 1988. Trequanda was a working farm but Montalcino was “destroyed,” she recalls.
Her father bought La Stoppa in northwest Italy in 1973. He made wine from international varieties, such as Chardonnay and Cabernet, which was the style at the time. “I lived in town and spent the summers here,” she says.
“The Brunello wine my mother gave me was important but the building in Montalcino was a ruin. I had to invest a lot and I needed a cellar master.
Eventually, Elena had a bookshop in Piacenza. In 1991 she came back to the family property. After a few years it became apparent that the imported varieties were not working. She began a project with wine consultant Guilo Armani, planting Bonarda, Barbera, Trebbiano and Malvasia Candia, the local grape varieties best suited to the climate and soil of the Colli Piacentini region, which had been out of fashion for so long.
“I asked at the school of oenology in Siena for a female student. They told me women didn’t train to be cellar masters because there was no jobs for them. ‘The wineries don’t trust women cellar masters.’ It was a surprise to me, but I discovered it was a discrimination so old, it was invisible. “Maybe in the past there was a reason to choose only men; they had to be strong to work in the cellar. I decided to manage my winery as a female winery. We were the first winery in Italy composed of only women.” So began the Prime Donna Project. Think for a moment the opportunities this decision has made for women in wine, and not just in Italy. The Project includes her signature
“Wine and books, those are my passions”, says Elena Pantaleoni.
Brunello, called Prime Donne, chosen by four female super tasters. “The four ladies want the best,” says Donatella. Her next project also had long lasting effects. “I decided to do something to convince wineries that wine tourism is good. In 1993 I started a day called
Cantina Aperte (open cellar). Now, over 1000 wineries take part in the event on the last weekend in May and many are open year round. Now I teach about wine tourism all over Italy.” Her advice in trying something new? “Push to be contagious. Be courageous.”
Along with the viticulture, the winemaking transformed too. “We are focused on the quality of the grapes and the timing of harvest. If you have healthy grapes, you can use less sulphites and don’t need to add yeast.”
Continued on next page
The Tomato | May June 2017 21
Continued from page 21.
La Stoppa was certified organic in 2008 but they had been working the land in that fashion since 1996. The wines spend several years in barrel (and steel) and in the bottle before they are released for sale. “We are organic in the vineyard. We leave everything as it has always been. We make long macerations and age the wines. It takes time to make wine well.” Elena’s quiet and thoughtful approach is apparent both in her wine and in conversation. She chooses to make several wines under the more general IGT classification because she doesn’t think the DOC rules for making EmiliaRomagna wines are related to quality.
CULINARY BOOT CAMPS
She has paved the way for several other like-minded growers and winemakers. She takes us around to taste with other winemakers who share a similar point of view. The wines are lively and delicious. We leave with a newfound appreciation of the region and burning desire to taste more.
PREPARE FOR YOUR NEXT CULINARY ADVENTURE!
STELLA DI CAMPALTO, BRUNELLO’S NEW WAVE
NAIT’s Culinary Boot Camps reveal the secrets to cooking and baking like a pro through hands-on practice, lectures and demonstrations in our state-of-the-art kitchens. Get your culinary skills in shape through lessons on planning, preparation and flavour pairings. Learn from NAIT’s celebrated chefs. Registration opens in February. PASTRY BOOT CAMP [BAKG330] Mon – Fri | July 10-14 | Fee: $1,475 (+ $500 material fees) CULINARY BOOT CAMP [CULG305] Tue – Fri | July 11-14 or July 18-21 | Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees) GOURMET BOOT CAMP [CULG306] Tue – Fri | July 18-21 | Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees) FOR THE LOVE OF CHOCOLATE BOOT CAMP [CULG310] Tue – Fri | July 18-21 | Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees) CURED MEATS, CHEESES AND PICKLES BOOT CAMP [CULG330] Tue – Fri | July 11-14 | Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees) MEAT BOOT CAMP [CULG340] Tue – Fri | July 11-14 | Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees) Enlist today! Call NAIT at 780.471.6248 or register online at nait.ca/bootcamp
A LEADING POLYTECHNIC COMMITTED TO STUDENT SUCCESS
22 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Drive south from Montalcino along a ridge and eventually you’ll get to Stella di Campalto at San Giuseppe. It’s hot, the air, still and lazy, the view over the hills bewitching. All we really want to do is dive into that swimming pool we saw a few kilometres back. But, once we find the cellar door, meet the dog and start chatting with Stella, we are energized. “We started harvest a week ago,” she says taking us down into the vineyard close to the winery. “My father-in-law gave me San Giuseppe. It has a strange history. The old owner was the church and the fields were grain, olives, forests. I started this new life when I was young, planting the vineyard in 1996. We had nothing, only the house from 1920, nobody lived there. The first Rosso was 2001, and Brunello in 2004 (released in 2009), 1,000 bottles. Now we make 25,000, between the Rosso and Brunello.” There are six vineyards (over almost seven hectares) with 12 different soils. The vineyards were certified organic in
1996; Stella uses biodynamic practices (one of the few, perhaps the only, in Montallcino). “Organic is about putting things on the land, biodynamic is about harmony. It’s not just about the farm, what we do here affects everyone.” Her approach is instinctive and collegial. Stella created SPA (sangiovese per amico) with fellow Brunello producers Pian dell’Orino and Podere Salicutti to heighten awareness of the different cru of Montalcino. The wines? They have an expressive, ethereal quality that stands out among the best Brunello. “Most important is the drinkability. My mother taught me that.”
PAOLA RINALDINI, FORCE OF NATURE Paola Rinaldini’s joy is infectious. As we walk through the vineyards she keeps up a rapid patter about family, the vines, the soils, the state of the market (Japan is very good). She talks about the different varieties of Lambrusco they grow. One of them is the rare PJCOL(Picol) Ross. Low yielding, not suitable for high production wines, so hard to grow it was practically endangered. Her father discovered a few rows when he bought the estate. The vines have not only survived, but have thrived and Rinaldini is one of the few producers of this rare wine. Lambrusco, the fizzy wine of the Po Valley, is not taken all that seriously for the most part. By making such high-quality wines Paola is saying take another look at the region and its wines. For example, Rinaldini’s Picolross Lambrusco is made in the traditional method, deeply coloured, tannic and savoury, just delicious. Interestingly, Rinaldini machine picks (not everything, and not the Picol Ross) and has been doing so for 30 years. I take a close look at vines that were machine picked a few days before. They look amazing, not the least beat up. Paola says it’s the skill of the driver, her son Luca. I think that machine knows better than to mess with Paola’s grapes.
Cinco de Mayo Continued from page 15
Habanero Mayonnaise 250 ml
mayonnaise
25 ml
agave syrup
/3 bottle El Yucateca Habanero hot sauce
1
zest and juice of 1 lime
¼ t each salt and pepper
Combine all ingredients and season to taste. Make about 1 cup.
Fish Tacos 4 med filets mahi mahi (or any fish of your choice) or firm tofu 8 shrimp ¼ c
cornstarch or flour
salt and pepper
canola oil
4 lg
corn tortillas*
Cut fish into 1-inch thick strips and season each with pinch of salt and pepper. Heat pan to medium, add drizzle of oil and fry fish until flakey. Dredge each shrimp in cornstarch or flour and fry in oiled pan until brown and crispy. To assemble tacos: Set 2 pieces of fish in the center of each tortilla. Top with a generous spoonful of tropical salsa. Place 1 shrimp on each piece of fish. Drizzle with aioli. Serves 4. * You could make your own like El Cortez does. Or, you could buy the Edmontonmade fresh Tortillas El Mercado, available at the Italian Centre Shops.
Bündok
Churros 125 ml
water
1 T
brown sugar
40 ml
butter
125 ml
all purpose flour
1 egg
Modern Canadian Cuisine Fox Tower • 10228-104 Street bundokyeg.com • @bundokyeg
1.5 t each cinnamon and white sugar
canola oil
caramel or chocolate sauce
In a medium pot, add water, sugar and butter then bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to low and add flour all at once. Mix with a wooden spoon. Once dough comes together into tight ball, remove from heat and use spoon to form a small pocket in the centre of the dough. Add egg into pocket and continue to stir with wooden spoon until egg is completely blended.
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Place dough into a piping bag with tip of your choice.
MY
CY
Pipe dough onto a parchment-lined baking sheet in rows and pop into the freezer until completely firm, about 40 minutes.
CMY
Join us for specials throughout the week! ‘Happy Monday’… all wine bottles are discounted! ‘Wing Wednesday’… chicken wings are half price! ‘Thirsty Thursday’… all beer is on sale!
K
Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot and heat over med/high until it reaches 300ºF. Cut frozen dough into 4-inch long sticks and carefully add these to the pot, a few at a time. Use tongs to spin and flip churros until they are evenly cooked and golden brown.
@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228
www.theglassmonkey.ca
5842-111 Street
Immediately sprinkle churros with sugar, then cinnamon. Serve with your favourite caramel or chocolate sauce.
In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience
THE MUSIC Narcos Soundtrack https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=8uZUcjUUfCY West Coast Classics Playlist https://play.spotify.com/user/asomex/ playlist/643RufTz7hl5cCRJmY8tb7 Mariachi de Mexico https://play.google.com/ music/listen?u=0#/wst/artist/ A37hgudny6zalu3gwwmgqfdq7tq
• Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850
Cibo / chee-bo / noun. Ital. 1 food. 2 a place to eat great Italian food.
780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com • 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square) Lunch 11.30 am – 2 pm Tue-Fri • Dinner 5 pm – 10 pm Tue-Sat
The Tomato | May June 2017 23
Feeding People an authentic french experience
Café|Bistro www.cafebicyclette.ca 587 524 8090
Farmer’s Market Open May 14 to December 17, 2017 VENDORS WELCOME Marché Agricole mfq-fqm@lacitefranco.ca 780 463 1144 8627 91 St Edmonton, AB T6C 4S8 Weddings|Conference Centre|Special Events|Hall rentals|catering 780 463 1144
Asparagus; the crisp, sweet, earthy taste of spring The sweet, earthy fresh taste of asparagus pairs well with all those other spring flavours, chives, radishes, fresh peas as well as lemon, garlic and eggs. The elegant architectural simplicity of asparagus always looks good on the plate. If you get tired of eating asparagus spear by spear, this recipe collection offers pastas, salad rolls and soup, as well as dips. Because, who doesn’t like to eat asparagus with their fingers?
Shaved Asparagus Salad This may become your favourite way to eat asparagus. Simply dressed with lemon juice and oil, and perfect for a weeknight as it comes together in a flash. Feel free to add a poached egg and chunky croutons to make it a meal.
SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton
12 thin asparagus spears, cleaned and trimmed squeeze fresh lemon juice (or orange if you don’t have lemon) a long drizzle extra-virgin olive oil (about ¼ c) sea or kosher salt and freshlycracked black pepper 3-4 radishes sliced thin
Grilled Asparagus with Parmesan Shavings Thick spears are best for grilling. Cut off woody ends if necessary. If you don’t have a cheese knife that can shave, a vegetable peeler will work. The idea is long thin strips rather than grated cheese. 12-16
asparagus spears
extra virgin olive oil
4-6 shavings of ParmigianoReggiano
Place spears in a shallow bowl and pour over 1-2 T of extra virgin olive oil. Toss gently with tongs (or your hands) to coat each spear. Place on a medium-hot grill crosswise and grill for about 10 minutes (depending on the size and thickness of the stalks) turning occasionally. The skin will blister slightly and turn brown in spots, which is good, but watch the tips for charring. Place on a platter, finish with Maldon salt and fresh-cracked black pepper and place shavings on top of the spears. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serve 4-6.
Pan-Roasted Asparagus with Lemon Tahini Sauce
grated Parmigiano or goat cheese
Make the vinaigrette. Squeeze lemon juice into a mixing bowl, add oil, salt and pepper and whisk to emulsify. Taste, it may need more oil or more juice but it should be citrusy. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the spears into long strips. Toss shavings and apsaragus tips in the dressing. Add radishes and turn on to two plates. Grate Parmigiano over or add a dollop of soft goat cheese. Serves 2.
1 bunch
asparagus
canola oil
Heat oil in a cast iron pan over medium heat. Add spears to fit in. Sauté, turning often, until still green, crisp-tender and beginning to brown in spots, about 8 minutes. Season and serve with lemon tahini sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds if you like.
Lemon Tahini Sauce with Turmeric ½ c
tahini
1 handful flat-leaf parsley, washed and trimmed 3 lg cloves garlic 1 t
turmeric powder
4-5 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
24 May June 2017 | The Tomato
water sea salt and black pepper to taste
Place the tahini, parsley, garlic, lemon juice, turmeric, and 2 tablespoons water into the bowl of a food processor. Blend, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Taste and add more water, lemon juice or seasoning if required for a lemony taste and smooth consistency. Serves 4-6 people.
Asparagus and Shrimp Salad Rolls with Nuoc Cham Crisp, light, healthy, crunchy, savoury, sweet and salty salad rolls.
Salad Rolls 1 sm packet rice noodles twenty 8-inch round rice paper wrappers 20 cooked shrimp cut in half lengthwise (or equivalent lump crab meat or spot prawns)
Mary Bailey
should take up about ⅓ of the wrapper. Roll up tightly, tucking in the ends as you go. Place on platter with the seam down. Cover with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and fillings. These are best made and served immediately but they can be covered with a damp paper towel and refrigerated for up to 1 hour. Serve the rolls with dipping sauce.
* Watercress and arugula are available at West Country Herbs in the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.
Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce) You can buy this but making your own will taste so much better. It should be a savoury, spicy and salty sauce. Adjust spices and garlic to taste. ½ fresh lime juiced (about ¼ c juice)
lemon zest to taste
3 T
Asian fish sauce
3 T
sugar
2 T
water
asparagus spears
½
Thai red chile, minced
1 med
carrot, grated
1 clove
garlic, minced
2 c arugula or watercress leaves*
1-3 cilantro leaves and stems, minced (about 1½ t)
2 c mint, basil or shiso leaves
1-3 mint leaves, minced (about 1½ t)
In a medium pot cover noodles with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels. Prep your other ingredients while the noodles are soaking. Cut the asparagus into long and flat diagonal pieces or cut thin stalks in half lengthwise. The idea is to have long peices. When the noodles are ready, fill a large, shallow bowl with very hot water and soak 1 rice paper wrapping at a time until just pliable, about 30 seconds. Spread a wrapper on a work surface. Lay the shrimp, cut side down, along with the asparagus cut side down. Place the greens, grated vegetables, sliced onion on top of the shrimp and cover with noodles. Cover with more asparagus. The filling
Brunch Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Shhhh…Brunch at Juniper is Edmonton’s best kept secret 9514-87 st Edmonton 780-490-6799 juniperbistro.com
Makes 20 salad rolls.
10 or so
1 sm bunch chives or spring onions, sliced lengthwise
Creating Comfort Food from scratch made with Love
In a small bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Reserve.
Thai–ish Asparagus Soup
DO NOT FEAR
THE MALL! Where else will you find our extensive selection of wine, spirits and beer? PLUS tastings, classes, Wine Club, gift baskets, gift cards and MORE! West Edmonton Mall Inside Entrance 58 Beneath Simons Reserved Parking
780.483.1083 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com
facebook.com/aligrawine
@Aligrawine
cheese • wine+beer • espresso
NOW PARTNERED WITH
10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG
If your asparagus somehow got left in the fridge too long and isn’t tip top, make soup. 3 T
canola oil
1 lg
onion, chopped
½
Thai chile, chopped fine
3 T
finely chopped ginger
1-2 bunches asparagus roughchopped into approx ½-inch pieces. ½ t
salt
½ t
black pepper
Where all the best parties happen.
780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street
Please see “Feeding People” on page 28.
The Tomato | May June 2017 25
Wine Maven “I wanted to be a doctor and save the world,” says Angela Maculan, the third generation of her family in wine. “My father wanted me to become a wine maker. “Two weeks after I started school he took me to meet the new American distributor. We went to New York, San Francisco (we stayed in a villa with a jacuzzi), Los Angelas, Banff. The next year he sent me on my own to New York, because he was busy with harvest. I remember studying our brochure carefully, because, really, I didn’t know.” Now Angela writes the brochures. She is responsible for sales for the family company and spends about 150 days a year on the road. Three wines for your must try list: The Pino & Toi, a blend of Fruilano (called Toi in the Veneto), Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio, super fragrant, savoury and delicious. The Vespaiolo smells like an orange grove and tastes delicious, with an intriguing texture. The Pinot Nero has pretty aromas of forest and berries, nice round tannins and just the right amount of weight in the mouth. Find at better wine shops in the $25 range.
After a visit to the Sybille Kuntz estate last year we became ardent fans of her wines. We loved the purity of the fruit, the clear expression of the soil and the vibrancy of the flavours. Sybille and her husband, Markus-Kuntz Riedlin, farm 30 acres of vineyards on grey Devonian slate above the small town of Lieser, near Bernkastel where they have practiced organic agriculture since the ’90s; the vineyards were certified biodynamic in 2016. Her specialty is dry Riesling (the designation is called trocken, which means fermented to almost bone dry, with less than nine grams per litre of residual sugar.) The wines are superbly balanced, elegant and racy. Find at Color de Vino, Liquor Select and other fine wine shops.
Angela Maculan at lunch at Cibo Bistro.
Marcia J Hamm, the manager of Hicks Fine Wines, successfully completed the WSET Diploma in wines and spirits earlier this year. That makes four diploma holders in town—Juanita Roos, Color de Vino; Margaux Burgess, Lingua Vina and yours truly. Congratulations Marcia.
Laurent Miquel wines from the south of France are available again in Alberta. They do really cool things, well. His father Henri was the one of the first to plant Syrah in Corbieres. Laurent followed innovative family tradition and planted Viognier in 1992. Now the family winery is one of the first to grow Albarino. The Cazal Viel wines are made from old vines grown in the hills. The GSM (Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache blend) will be ideal with anything on the grill. And the rosé? Love this refreshing, Syrah Grenache Cinsault blend. It has loads of flavour and personality. The whole idea of the Clacson label is, you guessed it, to make some noise about the quality and value of the wines. This Viognier has tasty peach and apricot flavours, great acidity — it’s the fridge door wine of the summer.
26 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Mary Bailey
EVENT CALENDAR MONDAY, MAY 1 Cristiana Tiberio, Tiberio Wines, $20 Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000.
MAY 2-6
THURSDAY, MAY 25 George Grant, Glenfarclas, $75 Sherbrooke Liquor Tasting Room, sherbrookeliquor.com/event-calendar.
Northern Lands Wine Week, Shaw Conference Centre, northernlands.ca.
SATURDAY, MAY 27
WEDNESDAY, MAY 3
SATURDAY, MAY 27
Andreas Bender Dinner, $145 Kitchen by Brad, info@kitchenbybrad.ca.
WEDNESDAY, MAY 3 Yelloweek Veuve Clicquot Dinner, $95 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, GM@ruthschrisedmonton.com.
THURSDAY, MAY 4 Andreas Bender, $75 Holts Café, 780-425-5300 ext. 62903.
SATURDAY, MAY 6 Veuve Clicquot tasting, $tba Devine Wines, 780-421-9463.
SUNDAY, MAY 7 Yelloweek Brunch North 53, 587-524-5353.
MONDAY, MAY 8 Alberto Zenato Dinner, $140, Vivo Downtown, 587-525-7500.
WEDNESDAY, MAY 10 NK’ Mip Winemaker Dinner, $100 La Ronde, 780-420-8366.
THURSDAY, MAY 11 Prosecco with Marcia J Hamm, $65 Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000.
TUESDAY, MAY 16 Meads in May, $30, Aligra aligrawineandspirits.com/events.
THURSDAY, MAY 25 ChardonYAY Tasting, $30 Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000.
Annual Spring Open House Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000.
The Long Table Dinner at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village, $130, kitchebybrad.ca.
THURSDAY, JUNE 8 Think Pink, Hicks Annual Rosé Tasting, $40 Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000.
SAT & SUN, JUNE 10-11 Porkapalooza Northlands Expo Centre, porkapalooza ca.
SUNDAY, JUNE 11 The Fifth Annual Gluten Free Cravings, The Agora, Strathcona County, spcravings.com
MONDAY, JUNE 12 Indulgence 2017, Delta Edmonton South indulgenceedmonton.ca.
TUESDAY, JUNE 13 Gins in June, $30, Aligra aligrawineandspirits.com/events.
TUESDAY, JUNE 20 Forty Creek Whiskey Masterclass, $tba Sherbrooke Liquor Tasting Room sherbrookeliquor.com/event-calendar.
M A R K T H E D AT E SUNDAY, JULY 9 Savour Strathcona County The Agora, Sherwood Park.
hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996
est. 1996
est. 1996
Porcini-Crusted Sea Bass – #12 Top 100 Best Things to Eat in Edmonton seasonal prairie cuisine • the evolution of tradition www.hardwaregrill.com / 780.423.0969 / 9698 Jasper Ave est. 1996
est. 1996
est. 1996
The Tomato | May June 2017 27
Drinks Continued from page 13
Aficionados of Cabernet Sauvignon, especially American, South American and Australian Cabs, generally like big reds with structure and tannin. Look to Spain’s Priorat or Toro regions; Sagrantino from Umbria in Italy; Carignan and Mourvedre from the south of France (especially from St. Chinian and Faugeres) and the wines of the Italian south, Aglianico, Negroamaro, and Cannonnau and Carignano from Sardinia.
L O C AL F O O D AN D A R T
How to say Aglianico: ahl-YAH-nee-ko. Cerasuolo di Vittoria: chair-ahSWOH-lo-dee-vee-toh-ree-ah.
The best local restaurants, food trucks and artists in Strathcona County.
Falanghina: fah-lawn -GHEE-nah GH makes a hard G sound.
Sunday, July 9, 2017, 4-8 p.m. Strathcona County Community Centre – Agora, Sherwood Park www.strathcona.ca/savour
Artisan market brought to you by
gallery 501
00163.24.04.17.EDT
Riesling: rheez-ling. Merlot: maer-low, though I hear Italian wine producers say murlott all the time! Mary Bailey, WSETDipl, practices saying Valdobbiadene, a lot. @tomatofooddrink
Feeding People Continued from page 25
1 can
coconut milk
5 c chicken (or vegetable) stock 1 T
fish sauce
squeeze fresh lemon juice chopped cilantro radish and green onion for garnish
Cook onion in the oil in a heavy pot over medium-low heat, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add ginger, chile, asparagus pieces, salt and pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently for about 5 minutes. Add coconut milk, stock and fish sauce. Simmer, covered, until asparagus is very tender, about 15 minutes. Puree the soup in the pot with an immersion blender or do in batches in a blender. Taste for seasoning adding lemon juice and seasoning to taste. Ladle into 4-6 bowls and garnish with the herbs and vegetables if using.
Roasted Asparagus with Smoky Almond Dip Oven-roasted asparagus is quick and easy, especially if you have the oven on for something else. 1 bunch
asparagus
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly-cracked black pepper
squeeze fresh lemon juice
Preheat oven to 400°F. Place the asparagus on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, salt, pepper and squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Toss to coat. Roast for 5-8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears, until tender crisp and starting to turn brown in spots. Watch the tips for charring.
Smoky Almond Dip This dip started off as Ajo Blanco, aka white gazpacho, the cold garlicy almond soup from Spain. It’s even better as a dip for grilled asparagus. 2 c cubed stale bread, preferably sourdough (crusts removed) milk ž c
cold water (more or less)
1
/3 c
whole blanched almonds
2 cloves
garlic (or to taste),
2 T
chopped shallot
½ cucumber, peeled and roughly chopped 2 T
extra-virgin olive oil
1 t (more or less) Spanish smoked paprika (Pimentón de la Vera) 3½ t
sherry vinegar
1 t
sea or kosher salt
Toast the almonds in a dry pan until just starting to colour. Cool. Soak the bread in milk (or cold water) for 10 minutes. Put cooled almonds into a food processor. Squeeze excess moisture out of bread and put in the processor. Add a bit of water and blitz until fairly finely ground. With the motor running, add the garlic, cucumber, paprika, oil and vinegar. Pulse until blended, check for seasoning and thickness, adding more water if required, then blend until smooth. Season to taste. Chill for at least 2 hours.
Serves 4-6. Please see “Feeding People� on page 30.
28 May June 2017 | The Tomato
The Tomato | May June 2017 29
Feeding People
Nourishing Entertainment! Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video. metrocinema.org Kedi
MAY 14 @ 4PM, MAY 19 – 25 Fall in love with the cats of Istanbul, in this profile of an ancient city as seen through their eyes. The film follows a selection of individual cats, each with their own distinctive personalities.
Strangers on the Earth
JUN 2 @ 9:30PM, JUN 4 @ 2PM, JUN 5 @ 7PM, JUN 6 @ 9:15PM A tapestry of pilgrim narratives, Strangers on the Earth explores the physical, social, and spiritual aspects of pilgrimage along Spain’s Camino de Santiago.
Call of the Forest: The Forgotten Wisdom of Trees
JUN 25 at 4:00PM This documentary features scientist and acclaimed author Diana Beresford-Kroeger, as she investigates our profound biological and spiritual connection to forests.
Metro Cinema at the Garneau 8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org
Continued from page 28
Place in a serving bowl and garnish with a dusting of paprika and some chopped almond. Serve with the roasted asparagus for dipping.
Asparagus Freekeh Bowl with Harissa You could make this with rice, quinoa or Israeli couscous; we like the deep nutty flavour of freekeh. This is also a delicious side dish to have with grilled lamb or kofta. Leave the asparagus whole if that is the plan. 2 T
harissa
2 T
extra virgin olive oil
1 T
cumin seeds
1 T
sesame seeds
1 t
sea (or kosher) salt
½ t fresh-cracked black pepper
spritz fresh lemon juice
1 sm bunch asparagus (8-12 spears) Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:
2-3 c
cooked freekeh
4-6
radishes, sliced
1 handful
Italian parsley, chopped
1 handful fresh mint leaves, chopped 1 c
plain Greek yogurt
more sesame seeds for garnish
Mix harissa, olive oil, seeds, seasoning and lemon juice together to form a paste. Slather on the asparagus spears and roast for 10 minutes in the hot oven. Watch carefully. Remove from oven and chop into 2-inch pieces (on the diagonal is nice) Divide the freekeh into 4 bowls and top with the asparagus, radish, parsley, mint, yogurt and sesame seeds if using. Serves 2-3.
30 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Asparagus Pasta with Lemon, Pepper, Ricotta and Peas I like to use Rustichella Abruzzo Casareccia pasta for this dish. It has a lovely chewy al dente texture. You could add crispy pancetta instead of the nuts; cut back on the salt if you do. 300 g pasta (about 6 handfuls) 1 bunch asparagus, washed and trimmed 1 c
fresh green peas
1 c
ricotta
juice and zest of ½ lemon
2 T shelled walnuts or pistachios, roughly chopped
olive oil
sea or kosher salt and freshly-cracked pepper
Parmigiano for grating
Chop the asparagus into bite-side chunks, reserving the tips. Cook the pasta in salted water according to the package instructions. While it’s cooking, sauté the asparagus in olive oil to soften a bit. Add the ricotta, lemon juice and zest to the pan. Drain the pasta reserving the pasta water. Place the pasta back into the pot. Over low heat, add the ricotta mixture a ladle at a time, along with pasta water as needed. Add peas, asparagus tops, toss gently, season with a generous crack of black pepper. Taste for seasoning, adding more pepper, salt or lemon juice if needed. Divide among four plates, toss nuts over and pass more Parmigiano for grating. Serves 4. May means asparagus and local asparagus means Edgar Farms. Get to the Downtown and Old Strathcona Farmers’ Markets early to pick it up, super fresh, from just down the road in Innisfail. -ed.
Spend a week in paradise!
Relax in comfort in your own private villa set amongst the vineyards and olive trees in the heart of Chianti—only 15 minutes from historic Siena.
Available for booking in 2017 and 2018 This newly-renovated villa is the perfect setting to explore the magic of Tuscany. Indulge in fantastic wine and gourmet food, enjoy picturesque hiking and cycling through the magical hilltop villages of Tuscany. 2-bedroom villa: $500 per person per week based on 4 people 3-bedroom villa: $400 per person per week based on 6 people 4-bedroom villa: $350 per person per week based on 8 people
For more information or to book: info@comlinks.ca
Kitchen Sink wine tastings happenings and events Join noted German winemaker Andreas Bender for dinner at Kitchen by Brad, Wednesday, May 3, 6:30pm. The multi-course dinner will be paired with Bender wines from the Mosel and Pfalz regions, as well as craft beers from Franconia. TIX: $145/p+, email info@ kitchenbybrad.ca. If that’s a no go, Andreas Bender will be at Holts Café (2nd floor, Manulife Place, 780-425-5300), Thursday, May 4, 6pm. This menu explores the tastes of spring with Bender’s Paulessen Zenit, I Love Mosel Riesling, Rotwein and Gewurz. TIX: $75/p+, call 780-425-5300 ext. 62903. We have been enjoying chef Julia Kundera’s food since the days of Two Rooms on Whyte Avenue. Julia’s food with Andreas’ wine? Giddy up! Didn’t book any Northern Lands events yet? There are still some tickets available for seminars, dinners and tastings showcasing the best of Italy and Canada, May 2-6. Visit northernlands.ca. Join special guest Alberto Zenato from the Zenato Winery in Veneto, Monday, May 8 at Vivo Downtown (10505 106 Street, 587-525-7500, vivoristorante.ca). Enjoy four courses created by chef Medi Tabtoub paired with these outstanding wines. TIX $140/p, 587-525-7500. Join special guest Misun Bu at the NK’Mip Winemaker Dinner at La Ronde, Wednesday, May 10. Five courses with wines to suit. TIX: $100/p++, 780420-8366. The Long Table Dinner at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village is Saturday, May 27, with chef Brad Smoliak. This dinner combines delicious food and history, which comes alive during the intimate tour telling the story of Red Fife wheat. Along with the tour are cooking demos, a horse-drawn wagon ride and music. Tix: $130/p, 18 spots only, email info@kitchenbybrad.ca or call 780-757-7704. Visit kitchebybrad.ca for travel info.
32 May June 2017 | The Tomato
Upcoming tastings at Aligra (1423 West Edmonton Mall, 780-483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com) Meads in May, May 16, 7pm, $30/p; Gins in June, June 13, 7pm, $30/p. Register and prepay online at aligrawineandspirits. com/events. Here’s the lineup of spring tastings at Hicks Fine Wines (#109, 150 Bellerose Road, St Albert, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines.com). Evening tastings start at 7pm, prices vary. Cristiana Tiberio of Tiberio Wines (Abruzzo), Monday, May 1, 7pm, $20/p; Thursday, May 11, Prosecco with Marcia J Hamm with Riedel glass to take home, $65/p; Thursday, May 25, celebrate National Chardonnay day with the ChardonYAY Tasting with Stacey-Jo Strombecky, $30/p; Thursday, June 8, Think Pink, Hicks Annual Rosé Tasting, $40/p. Call 780 569-5000 to reserve your spot. Saturday, May 27, is the Hicks Annual Spring Open House from 2pm-5pm. Yelloweek celebrates all things Veuve Cliquot with several dinners, tastings and events throughout the city. Highlights: Champagne pairing dinner at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, Wednesday May 3, 6:30pm. TIX$95, GM@ruthschrisedmonton.com. YellowBrunch, Sunday, May 7, 12pm at North 53 (10240 124 Street, 587-5245353, north53.com). Find Cliquot by the glass at the Hardware Grill, Fairmont Hotel Macdonald, Woodwork and Atlas Steak & Fish. Heart of the Home (12539 102 Avenue, 780-705-4928 heartofthehomeyeg. ca) is one of the High Street merchants participating in the High Street Mile where there will be an outdoor market, artists and musicians. Check it out! The Fifth Annual Gluten Free Cravings is Sunday, June 11, from 11am-3pm at the The Agora, 401 Festival Lane, Sherwood Park. Free admission and tasting cards are just $10. Learn about a gluten-free diet and sample what’s new in gluten-free products from local merchants and restaurants, spcravings.com.
Savour celebrates the best independent food and art in Strathcona County. Browse the work of the local artisans, enjoy tasty dishes from local restaurants and food trucks such as Casa Doce, Truckin Good Eatz and One Cool Cookie while enjoying the musical lineup. Lots of kid’s activities too, Sunday, July 9, 4pm-8pm at The Agora, 401 Festival Lane, Sherwood Park. Admission is free and taste tickets are $1 each.
mother’s day!
Party down on Saint-Jean Baptiste Day, Saturday, June 24, at the Real French Canadian Kitchen Party at Café Bicyclette (8627 91 Street, 587-5248090) with a special menu. On June 23, there is a pig roast-type dinner and BBQ and the traditional five gun salute. Café Bicyclette is also extending their Café Happy Hour until 7pm on Sundays, Wednesdays and sunny days for craft beers, wine and shareable snacks.
Check out the offerings for Mother’s Day Brunch at XIX Nineteen. Terwillegar (5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119) has a lavish buffet and St. Albert (104, 150 Bellerose Drive, 780-569-1819) is á la carte.
Sherbrooke Liquor (11819 St. Albert Trail, 780-455-4556 sherbrookeliquor. com) has a spiffy new tasting room. Meet George Grant, the grandson of the original Glenfarclas clan and taste Cask 105, 12, 15, 21, 25, and the 30 year at the May 25 tasting, 6pm-8pm, $75/p. The Forty Creek Whiskey Masterclass is on June 20. Register for Tasting Room events at sherbrookeliquor.com/eventcalendar/ Live at the Winspear presented by Sherbrooke Liquor: Benjamin Grosvenor, May 5; the Mike Farris Trio, May 23; The Head and the Heart, May 29. Enjoy special tastings in the Founders Room. TIX: winspearcentre.com/tickets-wins/ live-at-the-winspear. Mark your calendars for the annual bbq extravaganza Porkapalooza, June 10-11 at Northlands Expo Centre. For all the deets visit porkapalooza.ca. Indulgence 2017 is Monday, June 12 6:30pm-9pm at the Delta Edmonton South, 4404 Gateway Blvd. Enjoy tastes from 16 restaurants including XIX Nineteen, The Glass Monkey Gastropub, The Marc and Vivo Ristorante, indulgenceedmonton.ca.
La Ronde (Chateau Lacombe, 10111 Bellamy Hill Road, 780-420-8366,) offers a fun Mother’s Day Brunch (also in the Alberta Ballroom). Enjoy roving balloon artists, a colouring station and the family photo booth along with the lavish brunch buffet, $44/adults, $41/seniors, children 6 and over, $18. Resos 780-420-8366.
Holt’s Cafe (2nd Floor Holt Renfrew, 10180 -101 Street, 780-425-5300) hosts Mother’s Day Brunch on Saturday, May 13 and Sunday, May 14. Special menu items include corn cakes with fennel sausage and sweet crepes with banana brûlée and passion fruit curd. Call 780-425-5300 ext. 62903 to book. Juniper Bistro (9514 87 Street, 780490-6799, juniperbistro.com) is having a special Mother’s Day High Tea from 2pm-4pm. Reservations are a must. The High Tea menu includes sweet and savoury and a glass of bubbly, $35/p. Juniper plans something equally fun for Father’s Day; it will likely involve beer. Vivo Ristorante Downtown offers an Italian pranzo experience for Mother’s Day, a seven-course family-style lunch with fresh-baked breads and pastries, salads, charcuterie, pizza, their housemade pasta, a variety of choice meats and desserts and $5 mimosas. Two seatings, 10am and 1pm, on Sunday, May 14, TIX: $60/p, $30 for children ages 5-10, no charge for the under 5 set, bring your own hi-chair or booster seat. Call 587525-7500 for resos.
restaurant buzz Bündok (10228 104 Street, 780-4200192, bundokyeg.com) is open for lunch Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday starting May 3. They will start opening
what’s new and notable for Saturday brunch at 9am, on the May long weekend Yaay! That’s just about perfect for shoppers at the City Market Downtown on 104 Street. Looking for a new Friday lunch spot? Love meatballs? Check out Kitchen by Brad’s (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704, kitchenbybrad.ca) Meatball Madness for a casual lunch or takeaway, 11:30am-1pm every Friday (not Canada Day, July 1). Three meatballs and side dish of the day, $8. Can’t beat that. Wishbone (10542 Jasper Avenue, 780757-6758, eatwishbone.ca) the new member of the Three Boars Group, expects to be open mid-May. The new seafood and vegetable friendly restaurant is dinner only for now, but they do expect to be serving lunch and brunch soonish. Closed Sunday and Monday. Coming mid-June to the Mercer Building is Mayday Dogs (10363 104 Street, 587-989-5456, maydaydogs.com). Expect Canadian-made gluten- and nitrate-free beef hot dog in six different combinations and a chef s special once a month. The first one is by Daniel Costa. Open Tuesday–Friday from 5pm and Saturdays from 12pm. This is a sweet idea. Café Bicyclette (8627 91 Street, 587-524-8090) offers a Bikes and Baskets Picnic Kit. They supply the delicious picnic basket prepared by chef John Lau and the blanket. All you have to do is bring your bike. It’s available from Mother’s Day, May 14, until September. A family picnic basket could be had as well. Pre-ordering is recommended, 587-524-8090.
product news Now you can enjoy Ace Coffee Roasters’ exquisite espresso downtown at The Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-4551336 thecavern.ca). Find Brad’s BBQ Rub, Devil’s Butter and Bacon Jam at the 124 Grand Market, Thursdays from 4pm-8pm throughout the summer.
Heart of the Home’s (12539 102 Avenue, 780-705-4928 heartofthehomeyeg.ca) Tiki-themed oneyear anniversary party is July 8. Expect drinks, snacks, prizes, swag bags! Sign up for the newsletter at heartofthehomeyeg. ca to get in on all the good stuff. Celebrate Celiac Awareness Month during Time for Tea at Kinnikinnick Fresh (10940-120 Street, 780-732-7524, getitfresh.ca). Enjoy tea sandwiches and pastry with chef Lori Grein and take the recipes home, May 4, 5 and 12 from 10am-1pm.
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Knifewear (10820 82 Avenue, 587-521-2034, knifewear.com) suggests that spring is the ideal time for a tune-up on all things sharp and shiny. Free-hand wet stone sharpening starts at $6 per knife, with axe and hatchet sharpening and repair available, often while you wait.
at the cooking schools ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen classes are held at 10035-105 Street, main level. Weeknight classes run from 5pm7pm and are $50 plus GST. Thursday May 11, Sweet and Savoury Crêpes; Wednesday May 17, Thai-Inspired Appetizers; Wednesday May 31, Jams and Jellies; Thursday June 8, Intro to Indian Cooking; Thursday June 15, Mediterranean Appetizers; Thursday, June 22, Celebrate Canada’s Birthday. Join the ATCO Blue Fame Kitchen on a Farmers’ Market Feast Featuring June Ingredients; a tour of the City Market Downtown on 104 Street followed by cooking a garden-fresh lunch with ingredients from the market, Saturday June 24, 10am-12pm, $50/p+. Two cooking classes at the Pan Tree (220 Lakeland Dr #550, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca) with chef Israel Alvarez caught our eye: Moles, May 24, 6pm, $95/p+ and Ceviche, June 28, 6pm, $ 95/p+. To register, visit thepantree.ca. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.
780-705-4928 12539-102 AVENUE EDMONTON, AB
The Tomato | May June 2017 33
Beer Guy
Peter Bailey
Sweet dreams are made of this Sweet, beery memories. With my head on my pillow I look out my bedroom window, through a gap in the trees, and see the old rotating M sign atop the former Molson Brewery in Oliver. When I moved back to Edmonton in 2001 the Molson brewery was still a going concern. If the breeze was right I could smell the sweet, malty aroma of brewing at my house five blocks away in Westmount. Add in Edmonton’s only brewpub at the time, Brewster’s, in Oliver plus Original Joe’s on High Street, which carried Edmonton’s Alley Kat beer on tap. A few years later Sherbrooke Liquor Store began its growth towards being one of Canada’s best beer stores. I really picked the right neighbourhood for a beer nerd. Even better, just down the street lived Jim Whittome, a fellow beer enthusiast, homebrewer, certified beer judge and soon enough a great friend. A member of the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild, Jim hauled me out to one of the Guild’s meetings at Alley Kat Brewing. I chatted with hotshot homebrewers, sampled some great beers and met Alley Kat owner Neil Herbst. For a beer geek like me, Neil was a rock star – the man behind Alley Kat’s worldclass Full Moon Pale Ale and the flag bearer for craft brewing in Edmonton. What I admire particularly about Neil is his idea that craft beer is a community. It’s a very Edmonton idea, cooperating and collaborating as a way to success. A rising tide of craft beer raises all boats. With the leadership of Neil and the enthusiasm of so many others, great places to drink Alberta craft beer, supportive media and excellent beer stores, most of the elements to make Edmonton a great craft beer town are in place. The missing piece has been successful Edmonton craft breweries. We’ve seen local breweries like Flanagan & Sons, Amber’s, Maverick and Hog’s Head come and go. We’ve watched the beer scenes in Victoria, Vancouver and Toronto explode. Toronto! Come ON. Even worse - Calgary. As of this writing I count 18 breweries in Calgary, plus another six nearby. For Edmonton
34 May June 2017 | The Tomato
I count six breweries, including Labatt’s, plus one in Fort Saskatchewan. But – dare I say it? – I think Edmonton brewing has turned the corner. And there’s no turning back. Stalwarts like Alley Kat, Brewsters and Yellowhead have been reinvigorated. The newbies like Two Sergeants, Bent Stick and Situation have strong visions on what role they can fill. I’m particularly impressed with Wayne Sheridan’s Situation Brewing – a welcoming and stylish brewpub serving good, locally-focussed food and making really good beer. And the five or six coming soon breweries look promising, led by the high profile Blind Enthusiasm Brewing. Greg Zeschuk has assembled a strong team for Blind Enthusiasm, with brewing underway as of April. Another hope for the future is the fate of the old Molson brewery. Molson closed the historic Oliver brewery in 2007 and it sat abandoned over the last ten years, leaving many to expect it to suffer the fate of most old buildings in Edmonton: demolition. But this is a special building, emblematic of Edmonton’s brewing and commercial history. According to historian Lawrence Herzog, the brewery was opened in 1913 by the Edmonton Brewing and Malting Company, which brewed Yellowhead Beer, Edmonton Family Lager and Imperial Stout there until Prohibition hit from 1916-1924. Sick’s Breweries, makers of Old Style Pilsner, bought the brewery in 1927 and operated it until 1958 when Molson took over. Molson added the giant “M” sign in 1960. Most importantly, in 1988 it was where Peter Pocklington announced he had traded Wayne Gretzky to the LA Kings. Today Gretzky is back in town, the Oilers are on the upswing, Edmonton craft beer is surging and the old brewery is safe from the wrecking ball. Part of the commercial Brewery District development, with $4.1 million in assistance from the City of Edmonton, the old brewery is being completely refurbished. And plans call for a craft brewery for the restored building. Wouldn’t that be nice, a brewery in the Brewery District?
Edmonton Six-Pack Think globally, drink locally. You can find these Edmonton beers at the breweries or brewpubs themselves or at better beer bars and stores around town. #yegbeer
Alley Kat Sunburst Session Ale, Edmonton Alley Kat’s summer seasonal is a hopfen zwickelbier, which Google translates from the German as a hop grudge beer. Thanks Google, but there’s no grudge here. Sunburst is simply a zwickelbier or kellerbier – light, unfiltered ale – here heavily hopped with Citra hops, which lends a juicy, fruity taste. A nice throwback to former Alley Kat Germanic beers like Weihnachtskatze and Ein Prosit!
Brewsters Oilberta Stout, Edmonton Opened in 1995, Brewsters in Oliver Square was Edmonton’s only brewpub for years. Most beer for the Brewsters empire is now brewed in Calgary, but Brewster’s Oliver under brewmaster Gunther Trageser continues to brew seasonal and specials on-site. Oilberta is a dark, roasty American stout with chocolate and coffee notes. Pair with an Oilers game on TV.
Yellowhead Premium Lager, Edmonton Yellowhead takes its name from the first commercially brewed beer in Edmonton, made by the Edmonton Brewing & Malting Company on the Rossdale Flats and later in the Oliver brewery built in 1913. Today Yellowhead brews from a renovated heritage building in downtown Edmonton, including their flagship Premium Lager, a mellow, malty lager in the Dortmunder style.
Bent Stick Swap the Hops Pale Ale, Edmonton Scott, Kurtis, Patrick and Ben, the owners of Bent Stick are the brash young turks of the Edmonton beer scene, brewing with a rock and roll attitude. The former Alley Kat employees are committed to quality over quantity, brewing only 400 hectolitres a year. Each batch of their pale ale swaps the hops, switching in new hops to the base brew. Current batch uses Amarillo and Cascade hops.
Situation Brewing Page Turner IPA, Edmonton Situation’s brewpub is something Old Strathcona has needed for so many years. It has changed the dynamic of the area in a positive way. Also welcome is their flagship beer, a big, fruity, hoppy (80 IBUs) American IPA full of Mosaic and Citra hops.
Elbeck KGB, Edmonton Bruce Sample is the utility player of Edmonton brewing, brewing for Alley Kat, Hog’s Head and Yellowhead. Now he’s set out on his own as a gypsy brewer, brewing his Elbeck beers at Two Sergeants in Fort Saskatchewan. KGB stands for Kevin, Glenn and Bruce, the three Edmonton Homebrewers Guild members who came up with the recipe for this fabulous imperial Russian stout. Peter Bailey can’t see Russia from his house but he can see the old Molson brewery. He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian.
A Canadian Epic
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Newget Kompany Porc Salé
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Church and State Wines Culmina Family Estate Winery D’Angelo Estate Winery Daydreamer Wines Dirty Laundry Vineyards Henry of Pelham Mission Hill Winery Osoyoos Larose Red Rooster Winery Sandhill Wines Sperling Vineyards Syncromesh Wines
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