Take a bite of your city | November December 2015 | thetomato.ca
The Holiday Issue
FLAVOURFULLY IMAGINED
Locally Immersed Innovative Dining Open Now
ampersand27.com
To Find a Retailer Visit liquorconnect.com/312686
Contents
Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net
Features
Publisher BGP Publishing
At the SAIT kitchen party | Mary Bailey
Copy Editor Don Retson
10 Liquid gifts From your cash-strapped friend and rich uncle
14 Daniel Costa’s Christmas Eve menu My favourite time of year | Daniel Costa
Illustration/Photography
Mary Bailey Curtis Comeau Photography Mary Joyce Mark Mahaney Pierre-Paul Pariseau
Advertising Sales
8 On the road with Knifewear’s Kevin Kent Plains, trains and ... | Kevin Kent
Contributing Writers Shell Albert Peter Bailey Daniel Costa Shawna Dirksen Kevin Kent Judy Schultz
6 Behind the scenes at Cook It Raw
24 Family holiday recipes Every family has a few
26 Alberta Beverage Awards The best of the best
28 The hostess gift Not to be expected, so nice to receive | Mary Bailey
John Quark
Departments
Design and Prepress Bossanova Communications Inc.
Printer
5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town
Mary Bailey
Distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net For advertising information call 780-431-1802.
The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802
16 Wine Maven
18 Beer Guy Think global, drink local | Peter Bailey
20 What Do You Eat? Dr. David Turpin, University of Alberta President | Shawna Dirksen
22 Feeding People Famished in the name of love | Shell Albert
30 Pantry Genius dips for entertaining | Mary Bailey
32 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
34 According to Judy The bird man of Strathcona County: a tribute to Rick Wood-Samman | Judy Schultz
Cover illustration: painting by Mary Joyce, maryjoyceart.com
Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca The Tomato | November December 2015 3
Easy is a beautiful thing.
10643 123 St.
✸
780 447 4577
RGERD.CA
Cibo / chee-
bo / noun. Ital. 1 food. 2 a place to eat great Italian food.
#stepintoitaly italiancentre.ca
| Little Italy | Southside | West End |
780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square)
@italiancentre
Lunch 11.30 am – 2 pm Tue-Fri Dinner 5 pm – 10 pm Tue-Sat
Dish
gastronomic happenings around town you say tomato
Sherbrooke Liquor Store, Liquor on Mcleod (Spruce Grove) Lacombe Park Liquor (St Albert) Little Guy Liquor (Sherwood Park) and other fine wine shops. Several of the stockists plan awareness and adoption events at their stores. BID are specialists in the private label business and hope to do more for charities, business, weddings and other special events.
Of course we love the new Staub tomato cocotte. But its glossy tomato red exterior doesn’t just look good, it is an efficient cooking machine— enameled cast iron, with a black enamel interior that is terrific for braising. Family- or dinner party-sized with a 3-quart capacity, and on promo right now for $180.
urban farms, urban farmers Three new land use classes in the city’s zoning bylaw, Urban Outdoor Farms, Urban Indoor Farms, and Urban Gardens, officially create a place for urban agriculture. “The changes mean residents can expect to see beautification of vacant and underutilized lots, more community gardens, and an increase in local food businesses in commercial areas and temporary spaces,” says Colton Kirsop, senior planner for the City’s Zoning Bylaw Implementation Team.
Enter to win this magnificent Staub tomato cocotte at Barb’s Kitchen, Bella Casa, Call the Kettle Black, Gifts & Gadgets, Hillaby’s Tools for Cooks, The Pantree, Zocalo and other fine kitchenware shops, zwilling.ca.
so much more than butter chicken
The changes help align rules for land development with food production policies found in fresh: Edmonton’s Food and Urban Agriculture Strategy. The new regulations ensure that appropriate standards are in place and that urban agriculture activities are compatible. The City has launched a vacant lot inventory to help users search for lots that are appropriate for urban agriculture.
The Shaw Conference Centre’s award-winning culinary team, led by executive chef Simon Smotkowicz, has created a new menu featuring over 60 dishes that authentically represent the diverse regions of India. The development of the menu was shepherded by sous-chef Lalit Upadhyaya whose 20 years of international experience was key. “India is an extremely diverse country. Our goal was to create a menu that is representative and ensure that authenticity was not lost,” says Upadhyaya. In addition to Upadhyaya, recipe testing was conducted by chef de partie Rahul Chaudhari, with dessert development by senior chef de partie Sony Abraham. Lunch and dinner menus feature multiple vegetarian and non-vegetarian buffet options. Visit shawconferencecentre.com for full menus.
adopt don’t shop The Edmonton Humane Society is getting some help with its #adoptdontshop message about curbing the number of stray animals from an Alberta wine importer.
retro enamelware
Top: Staub’s tomato-shaped cocotte. Middle: chefs Simon Smotkowitz and Lalit Upadhyaya. Left: the Edmonton Humane Society’s label-puppy. Below: Reiss’ über-cool enamelware.
Reiss enamelware, the cult favourite of many a highend design rag, is now available in Edmonton. The kitchenware is made of stainless steel covered in several layers of high-quality porcelain enamel, delivering easy-to-clean performance. Maven & Grace stocks two classic lines from the Austrian company—crisp white and mix and match pastels in ladles, milk jugs, saucepans and baking dishes from $30-$100. It not only looks cool, it’s suitable for induction cooktops. Reiss is a ninth-generation family business which started as a metal company in 1550. Find at Maven & Grace, 9621 82 Avenue, 780-760-0139.
“We wanted to align with a charity whose values we share,” says Jim Pettinger, of BID Beverage International Distributor. “We like to do private labels and think this is a good way to get this across.” The wine is bottled in Germany by Dr Zen Zen, makers of the number one selling German red and white in western Canada. Find Shiraz (a cute grey kitten) and Sauvignon Blanc (this adorable puppy) at The Tomato | November December 2015 5
MARY BAILEY
BEHIND THE SCENES AT
COOK IT RAW Cook it Raw is billed as a gathering of the world’s most avant garde chefs, “an annual event that brings internationally recognized and emerging chefs together with dedicated producers, community leaders, academics and cultural producers to discuss and explore the politics of food through four guiding principles—environment, tradition, creativity and collaboration.” Founded in 2009 by Alessandro Porcelli, there have been seven previous incarnations of what could be considered a think tank for chefs. In 2015 it came to Alberta. Heavy hitters, some of the biggest names in the culinary universe, with several Michelin stars among them—Albert Adria from Spain; JP McMahon from Ireland; Syrco Bakker from Holland; Magnus Ek from Sweden and Elizabeth Falkner, Amanda Cohen, Preeti Mistri and Brandon Baltzley from the US, joined 14 Alberta chefs in an exploration of our culinary frontier. Literally. They fished, foraged, swam, wandered about in the woods, cooked, drank wine and talked. After several days at Mount Engadine Lodge, roughing it in Kananskis Country (no cell service), the Cook it Raw experience ended in Calgary with a walkabout tasting at Rouge Restaurant and a dinner in the SAIT kitchens. Here’s a behind the scenes look at the prep for that dinner. This is the third in a series of Cook it Raw stories published by The Tomato. Find them at the tomato.ca. Visit our Facebook page and Instagram feed for more behind the scenes photos.
6 November December 2015 | The Tomato
Top row left to right: JP McMahon, the obsessive educationalist, owns and operates three restaurants with his wife Drigin Gaffey in Galway. Albert Adria “I haven’t worked in pastry in eight years,” chef Adria confessed while planning the saskatoon dish. No matter. Over 6000 people visit restaurants in the elBarri group Albert runs with his brother Ferran. Yes, that Ferran. Syrco Bakker, Pure C on the beach in Cadzand, Netherlands; gained a Michelin star for Pure C within a year and a half after opening. Middle row left to right: Magnus Ek The relaxed chef/owner of Oaxen Krog, Stockholm hiked up to a mountain lake one evening and caught several trout, then cooked them on an open fire. Alessandro Porcelli, the visionary behind Cook it Raw. Amanda Cohen rocked NYC when she opened the stellar vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy. And she’s Canadian! Bottom row left to right: SAIT students help Cam Dobranski (Brasserie Kensington, Calgary) serve. Chefs plate the Red Fife wheat course. All photos by Mark Mahaney.
The Tomato | November December 2015 7
Illustratiion by Pierre-Paul Pariseau
On the Road The lights were thrown on. “Is there a doctor aboard this flight?” I put my headphones back on, pulled the blanket up and went back to sleep. I was excited for my homecoming to London. First time back in nine years. In the eight years I lived there it changed my life. I encountered a genius, learned about excellence, met my future,
WITH KNIFEWEAR’S KEVEN KENT
got hitched. I worked as a wine tour guide and tester, was the chef for Price Waterhouse Cooper’s executive dining rooms and fell into the sous chef role at Fergus Henderson’s St John Restaurant. Did I mention I bought a Japanese knife? The next time I opened my eyes the doctor was pulling a little old lady,
8 November December 2015 | The Tomato
wrapped in blankets, into one of the business class pod seats. She had obviously passed on the flight. That unfortunate happening had followed an aborted take-off complete with emergency braking. Then, upon landing, the police came onboard and arrested two people. For killing the old lady? We’ll never know. This was shaping up to be a proper bit of memorable travel.
All of this excitement and subsequent nine-hour delay caused us to miss our lunch reservation. Bummer. We had booked Margot Henderson’s resto Rochelle Canteen. The Henderson’s are the OH (original hipsters). I lived up the road for six years and was obsessed with the place—a Victorian building project around a bandstand right beside The City seemed to be brimming with
opportunity. I could never understand why it hadn’t been snapped up by developers, hipsters, restaurateurs and the like. Well, in the nine years since I lived there all of those things have happened. Cool brands have moved in and Margot has opened Rochelle. The restaurant is as hip as can be, I understand, but I’ll have to take their word as we never did get in. Every time I take a big trip I bring one staff member with me. It’s fun for me and eye-opening for them. Kent of Inglewood is our new line of men’s shave shops and Nathan is the manager of the shop in Calgary. We would be visiting suppliers for both stores over the next two weeks in London, Frankfurt and Stockholm. Shaving creams and potions, straight razor makers, safety razor makers, body soaps, combs, brushes, Japanese kitchen knives and, well, lots of cool stuff. We consoled ourselves with a late dinner at St John Bread and Wine. This is Fergus’ second St John restaurant. La Gitana flowed as we enjoyed duck liver toast, Arbroath smokie and dandelion salad, the best bread in town and crispy pig skin with tarragon aioli. The food? Simple and brilliant. I love delicious and St John Bread and Wine delivered. Of my St John team we’ve all done quite well. It really was amazing. If everyone strives for excellence and no one wants to be mediocre, you can do anything. That place, that team, that time was a turning point for many of us. Tim owns a resto called Trullo that gets rave reviews and just signed a lease for another. Ben has Back Street Diner, a food truck in London slinging burgers, super delicious and very now in London. Lee is a regular on Vice TV, did a pop-up restaurant in Copenhagen during MADD last year called Black Axe Mangal and has signed a lease for a restaurant across the street from Trullo. Joao is the chef for the governor general of New Zealand. Justin changed the face of bread in London and, I hope, the world soon, and I have eight retail shops in Canada. Not to mention the gaffer himself, Fergus Henderson. He IS the most influential chef in the world right now. People will be cooking like him for many, many, many, years. But few will get it right.
Saturday morning brought us to Burough Market: Brindisa chorizo sausage on a bun, Gorwyynd Caerfilly, Comte—used to buy this every week from the cute girl there. Don’t tell my wife. Oh, and the cheese is delicious.
If you can dream it, we can build it.
Best fish monger in London. Cured sausage from South England (veal thyme and lemon, chorizo and fennel pork). Mulled wine, pints of beer at Market Porter. Pigeons, elk, fallow deer, rabbits all shot and for sale at the market. The English manage their land and have no shortage of these animals from over-hunting; in fact the landowners have lots of animals on their land because they plan for it. Not by feeding, but by providing habitat where the animals can thrive. Makes so much sense, why can’t we do it here? Justin’s bakery. He made the bread for Will and Kate’s wedding. Not bad. Does classes too. He’s changed the way bread is made in London.
Top quality at affordable prices • 780-221-8453 • phil@greenviewcabinets.ca
exquisite holiday gifts
On the flight to Stockholm we discovered that we Canadians package our potato chips all wrong. On SAS we bought chips in a box. Slightly greasy, super crunchy and mostly whole slices. The box protects them from crushing and the shape makes for easier transport. Awesome. We bought another to show our appreciation for the slick design and maybe because the pre-flight pints of beer were kicking in. In Germany beer is water and everyone, even babies, drink it all day every day. This is a fact. Aquavit, herring, beer, cream puffs, axes, cappuccino machines, cod’s roe, sour cream, reindeer, Stockholm. Back in Frankfurt we managed a 22hour delay. Don’t travel with me right now. I’m clearly cursed. Just call me Steve Martin. Planes, Trains and... The flight home was the kind of flight you wish for. Smooth take off, no turbulence, no deaths, no arrests and a gentle landing, absolutely nothing to remember it by. Perfect. Recovering chef Kevin Kent is the proprietor of Knifewear and Kent of Inglewood with locations in Edmonton Calgary, Kelowna and Ottawa.
The Tomato | November December 2015 9
LIQUID GIFTS
from your cash-strapped friend and your rich uncle If money was no object, what would your wealthy relative send over? And what about that friend with more taste than dosh? The one who always shows up with the stylish and tasty $20 bottle? We asked several wine folks what they would like to see under the tree from both ends of the price spectrum.
Paulette Scott, Pacific Wine and Spirits From my cash-strapped friend: 2013 Botter Gran Passione (Veneto, Italy) $18. We all love a bottle of wine that looks and drinks better than its price. Gran Passione is that wine, a blend of Merlot and 30 per cent Corvina. Full-bodied, with a solid structure, admirable balance and fine tannins and acidity. From rich uncle Bob: 2009 Henschke Hill of Grace (Eden Valley, Australia) $900. I was blessed to meet Stephen Henschke this year and taste the 2009 Hill of Grace, a memorable wine that left a mark on my wine soul. The wine has depth and presence; layers of currant and dark plum fruit harmonize with black walnut, licorice, smoke and coffee notes. Hill of Grace sings like a world-renowned chorus that never runs out of breath.
Tara Smith, Sherbooke Liquor From my cash-strapped friend: Cleto Chiarli Brut de Noir Rosé NV (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) $20. I'm on a real Lambrusco kick these days! And this is not the Lambrusco from your teenage days. This rosé is pale pink, elegant and lively, with romas of ripe garden red berries and a rich palate. From rich uncle Bob: 2011 M Chapoutier L'Ermite Hermitage (Northern Rhone Valley, France) $366. A rich, voluptous white that is finely balanced between tropical fruit flavours, minerality and a long savoury finish. Drink now or feel free to forget about it in your cellar for a few years to develop more savoury characteristics. Rare and exciting.
Jeff Sparling, Fine Wines by Liquor Select From my cashstrapped friend: 2011 Domaine des Anges Rouge (Côtes du Ventoux, France) $19. A terrific bargain from an overlooked appellation. Lively and intense, this blend of Syrah and Grenache leaps out of the glass with vibrant red and black berries, pepper and dark chocolate.
10 November December 2015 | The Tomato
From rich uncle Bob: 1995 Masi Mazzano Vineyard Amarone Classico (Veneto, Italy) $195. There is nothing like a classically structured Amarone with 20 years of age on it. This wine is incredibly deep and powerful, yet subtle, austere, and endlessly complex, with nuances of cherries, herbs, chocolate, cherries, dried fruit, leather, and on and on. Sublime.
Valerie Albrecht, Enotri From my cash-strapped friend: 2013 Borgo del Cedro Rosso IGT (Lazio, Italy) $20. This modern expression of a classic Roman wine blends Cesanese with Sangiovese. Fresh and lively; the lightness of approach belies the depth of flavour, with firm tannins and a surprisingly long finish. From rich uncle Bob: 2012 Celler de Capcanes Costers del Gravet (Montsant, Spain) $34. This single-vineyard wine unites Cabernet Sauvignon with 30 per cent Grenache and 20 per cent Carignan both from 40-70 yearold vines. Unctuous on the palate with pronounced acidity and tannins followed by an intense, lingering finish. Decant before serving.
Deb Pirker, Andrew Peller Import Agency From my cashstrapped friend: 2013 Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch, South Africa) $17. This little gem is from one of the oldest wine producers in South Africa. Big on aromas and flavours combining a lemony, cinnamon, nutmeg nose with zesty citrus and ripe tropical fruit on the palate. From rich uncle Bob: 2011 E. Guigal Cote-Rotie La Landonne (Northern Rhone, France) $500. Who wouldn’t want a wine from Marcel Guigal, who Robert Parker calls the planet’s greatest winemaker? Guigal’s single vineyard La-Las—La Landonne, La Mouline, and La Turque— have garnered 19 perfect 100-point reviews from Parker since 1990. The 2011 La Landonne will dish out tons of pleasure for two to three decades.
Sasha McCauley, Glazer’s From my cash-strapped friend: Cointreau (France) $30. 2015 was the year Cointreau took the starring role in my cocktails. Great value for the dollar, use it to make a perfect margarita, cosmopolitan, or delicious fizzes. From rich uncle Bob: Gran Patron Burdeos Anejo Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico) $475. This year I’d love to find a bottle of the delicious, velvety smooth Gran Patron Burdeos under the tree from my rich uncle. Made from the finest 100 per cent Weber blue agave, aged in American and French oak barrels, distilled again and racked in vintage Bordeaux barrels, this is a luxury drink to sip on a long winter’s night.
Tricia Bell, The Cavern From my cash-strapped friend: 2014 Capçanes Mas Donis Rosat (Montsant, Spain) $15. My favourite rosé changes daily. Today it a refreshing Spanish wine that can stand on its own or up to a good range of menu items. A dry rosé is an absolute must for all seasons, not simply warmer ones. From rich uncle Bob: 1998 Billecart-Salmon Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Blanc de Noir Brut (Champagne, France) $500. I have always loved Champagne; for me it could be everyday drinking. My favourite maison is Billecart-Salmon. The unique terroir of Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is fully evident in this magnificent cuvée; minerality, complexity and freshness have full expression.
Erin Chipchura, Galileo Wine & Spirits From my cashstrapped friend: Jeio Prosecco Brut DOCG (Valdobbiadene, Italy) $20. One of the oldest wineries in the region, founded in 1858 by Eliseo Bisol. This is an ideal Prosecco to enjoy with meals, in mimosas and as a toast for celebrations. From rich uncle Bob: 2007 Biondi Santi Brunello Riserva IL Greppo (Tuscany, Italy) $550. With such international prestige and extensive history, Biondi-Santi is a wine that every wine enthusiast will cherish and remember.
Sandi Hollas, Appellation Wine Marketing From my cash-strapped friend: Villa Sandi Prosecco DOC (Veneto, Italy) $20. A pale straw yellow wine with a fine and persistent perlage. The aroma is fruity and flowery with hints of ripe golden apple and small mountain flowers.
own, with salads, also a great turkey wine.
From rich uncle Bob: Roccato Rocca della Macia (Chianti, Italy) $50. Deep ruby red with hints of red berries, cocoa, vanilla and coffee in the aromas and flavours, warm and well-balanced with excellent tannic structure.
From rich uncle Bob: 2012 Celler de Capcanes Cabrida Old Vines Garnacha (Montsant, Spain) $60. This full-bodied red wine has super balance and complexity. Its seductive nose is followed by intense and elegant flavours of red berries and a fresh and vibrant acidity. Gorgeous texture.
Alison Phillips, Aligra Wine & Spirits From my cashstrapped friend La Ladra Barbera D'Asti (Piedmont, Italy) $20. This Barbera has good structure and excellent harmony, rich in tannins, elegant and balanced. La ladra is the Piedmontese word for wine thief, the pipette used to check on wine in the barrel.
Doug Hicks, Marcia J Hamm, Hicks Fine Wines
From rich uncle Bob: Ken Wright Pinot Noir Single Vineyards (Willamette Valley, Oregon USA) $90. Ken Wright Cellars single vineyard series Pinot Noirs are garnering high praise and high scores. Wright has become one of Oregon’s most respected winemakers. He helped establish the Willamette Valley as a premier location for Pinot Noir and Carlton as the hip wine region within it.
Eberhard Tamm, Enotri From my cashstrapped friend: 2014 Corte di Giacobbe Soave DOC (Veneto, Italy) $19. A wonderful combination of delicate scents of flowers and fruits, well-balanced with a refreshing acidity, tasting of pears and apple. Nice on its
From my cashstrapped friend: 2012 Sur de Los Andes Malbec Reserva (Mendoza, Argentina) $22. Selected grapes and eight months of oak aging make this little beauty worth more than its price tag. Intensely fruity, boysenberry and blueberry notes with a minerally finish.
From rich uncle Bob: 2011 Gerard Bertrand La Forge (CorbieresBoutenac, Languedoc, France) $104. Possessing the aromatics of Syrah and the power of Carignan, with notes of toast, cloves, black fruits, well-balanced tannins and a spicy aftertaste, La Forge is from the centre of the sub-appellation Boutenac— considered the premier cru of Corbières. Continued on next page
The Tomato | November December 2015 11
Graham Usher, Bill Medak, UnWined: Fine Wines, Spirits & Ales
Stacey Jo Strombecky, Renaissance, Clarus and Nobilis Wines From my cash-strapped friend: Ciderie Bigoud Artisan Cidre NV (Britanny, France) $14. Having already consumed an embarrassing amount of this over the summer, I am looking forward to fall and winter pairings, likely involving smoky flavours and robust spices. Expect notes of bruised and fresh apples, and a note of oxidation, followed by classic effervescence and a dry finish. From rich uncle Bob: Champagne Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV (Champagne France) $70. I am personally ecstatic that the Mailly is back on Alberta shelves. It’s a beautiful yellow gold with a complex nose of buttered toast and a lively fruity palate. Mostly Pinot with 25 per cent Chardonnay, it’s also great value—grand cru pedigree at a regular Champagne price.
From my cash-strapped friend: 2013 Terra D’Alter Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano Portugal) $19. This wine has everything a cash-strapped guy needs. Plum and prune notes, great acidity and structure, a very long and rich finish with notes of chocolate, vanilla and silkyrich tannins. From rich uncle Bob: 1979 Gordon & MacPhail: Port Ellen Rare Old (Islay, Scotland) $1900. Distillery: Port Ellen, Islay. Founded 1825; ceased operations 1983. Distilled 1979; bottled 2014. Lot No: RO/14/01. This was one of the iconic distilleries on Islay. With the subsequent shuttering in 1983, the quantity of available Port Ellen is dwindling—only 12 bottles are in Alberta. Subtle Sherry influences with hints of beeswax polish, charred oak and underlying peppered kipper notes. The palate offers peat smoke with a touch of black pepper. Sweet fruit flavours develop to reveal green apples, pear and lime.
Daniel Costa, corso 32 From my cash-strapped friend: Capezzana Vin Ruspo (Tuscany, Italy) $25 I absolutely love this wine. The balanced acidity makes it such an amazing food wine. I drink it around 14ºC to truly appreciate all of the character this wine has to offer.
12 November December 2015 | The Tomato
From cool uncle Bob: Radikon Pinot Grigio (Collio, Italy), $45 An absolute must for wine lovers to try. This orange wine has a long finish with balanced acidity, strawberry and honey notes and a surprising amount of tannin. Take a chance and try something new.
Juanita Roos, Color da Vino From my cashstrapped friend: 2014 Underwood Pinot Noir Union Wine Co. (Oregon USA) $22. Great value that tastes like classic Oregon Pinot Noir but won’t break the bank. Soft-textured, fresh acidity, earthy notes with loads of fresh fruit, dark cherries, raspberries and blueberries. From rich uncle Bob: 2010 Le Dome Maltus St Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) $446. Have you ever wondered what Mr. Parker considers a perfect 100 point wine? Here it is: “This wine swallows the entire scoring system and rightfully so.” Le Dome is a lush and ever so delicious bottle of plum, cocoa, violet, spice and leather. Extravagance and rarity. Perfect.
Hayley McRae, Vendemmia From my cash-strapped friend: 2013 Barbi Brusco Sangiovese IGT (Tuscany, Italy) $23. This is a fantastic Sangiovese and a great wine to drink with friends, full and fruity with some classic Italian spiciness. The palate is balanced and easy like Sunday morning. From rich uncle Bob: Berta L’Amaretto di Mombaruzzo (Piedmont, Italy) $66. It’s hard not to have a bit of a crush on this elegant Amaretto from Berta Distilleries. There is roughly one kilo of Mombaruzzo almonds in every bottle. The result is liquid gold, with true almond flavour, aged in cherry wood to enhance the richness of the liquor. A luxurious gift to add to anyone’s bar and for those who love a sexy after dinner drink.
Jordan Lee, Crush Imports From rich uncle Bob: Larmandier-Bernier Cramant Nature Grand Cru (Champagne) $90 This Chardonnay was of such exceptional quality and character that the maître de chai decided not to have the wine undergo a second fermentation. We are left with a still wine of unmatched purity and integrity. This is about as rare as it gets for a current release cuvée. From my cash-strapped friend: 2013 Bozeto Tinto Bodegas Exopto (Rioja, Spain) $18. Such a lively and expressive red, luscious red fruit, racy acidity and a long lingering finish. It is the perfect example of why we should all drink more Spanish wine!
Barb and Susan Giacomin, Winequest From my cashstrapped friend: Tenuta S. Anna Prosecco Frizzante Spago NV (Veneto, Italy) $20. Who doesn’t want some affordable tasty bubbles. The gentle fizz and soft peachy pear flavours makes for a joyful Italian party in my mouth. The traditional tie top (spago) over the cork is ever so charming! From rich uncle Bob: 2008 Capezzana Trefiano di Carmignano Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) $75. Just ask Daniel at Corso 32, this wine is a blockbuster. Complex, rich, balanced, elegant with black cherry, dark plum, liqorice, cedar, tobacco, leather. Soooo much going on without being brash, the epitome of good taste and old money.
Ryan Everitt, Trialto From my cashstrapped friend: 2010 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Terroir (Argentina) $25. Altos las Hormigas is one of the most exciting winegrowing projects in South America, created by international wine dream team Italians Alberto Antonini, Antonio Morescalchi and Attilio Pagli; Chileans Pedro Parra and Leonardo Erazo. They function like a classic jazz quintet, each player contributing to a sum that is far greater than its parts.
Gourmet • Choice • Selection RETAIL AND WHOLESALE
9731 60 Avenue • 780.434.9898 • www.bicoastalseafood.com
L’ I n s t a n t C h a m p a g n e , w i t h Vi t a l i e Ta i t t i n g e r.
From rich uncle Bob 2011 Azelia Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) $60. Azelia is still a secret wellkept by Barolo lovers. Scrupulous attention is given to vineyards and procedures in the winery, where great respect is maintained for tradition and the judicious use of modern techniques. A gem.
Reims, Place Royale. taittinger.com
To Find a Retailer Visit liquorconnect.com/40873
The Tomato | November December 2015 13
Christmas Eve DA N I E L C O S TA’ S M E N U
C
hristmas is my favourite time of year. I love getting together with my family and cooking special dishes, having disagreements and drinking a lot of wine.
I bring a ton of ingredients for the dishes I want to make; baccala is an absolute must every year. My dad and I bicker back and forth about how to cook the dishes, what the real tradition is.
We drink a lot of white wine from all over Italy and everyone helps cook the meal. My brother-in-law is also a great cook so he tends to be my right hand man. The idea is to have a sit down Christmas Eve dinner but we generally eat the majority of the antipasti around the island in my parent’s kitchen while we cook the rest of the food. I always bring fresh fish for the secondo but we are generally so full that we skip the final fish course. My dad and I are the last ones awake. Around 2am we eat some panettone or sneak some of the stollen my mom made for Christmas Day and have vin santo or amaro while watching a Christmas movie or an old Italian movie on TLN. It’s a beautiful time of year.
Anchovies in Salsa Verde This is a snack to eat while drinking white wine and cooking the rest of your feast. Only use good quality anchovies; they will have the perfect balance of umami. Put these in a sandwich, salad or pasta the following day. 1 tin 310 g, olive-oil packed anchovies (I like Agostino Recca, at Italian Centre
1 bunch Italian parsley (tough stems removed, tender stems
closer to the leaves are very good)
1 clove
garlic, minced
1 T
capers
1
lemon zested and juiced
1 small fresh red chili pepper such as birds eye, thinly sliced ¾ c high-quality extra virgin olive oil
Place the parsley and capers on a large cutting board and finely chop. Place the chopped parsley and capers in a bowl with the garlic, lemon zest, juice, chili and olive oil. Mix with a spoon. Set aside. Arrange the anchovies close together on a small platter. Pour the salsa verde over the anchovies, leave at room temp for 30 minutes before serving. Serve with charred bread.
Rosemary and Orange Prawns I have been making these Sicilian-inspired prawns for years and people always love them. Don’t forget to ‘scarpetta’ the bottom of the platter with a piece of bread after! 1 kg
raw peeled prawns
1 large
orange, zested
1 sprig rosemary, leaves removed from the stem and finely
The day before
Dry the prawns with a paper towel. Place the prawns, orange zest, rosemary, garlic, olive oil and chili flakes in a bowl. Mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for 12 hours.
Day of
Preheat oven or grill to 450ºF. If using the oven: place the prawns and marinade on a sheet pan, sprinkle evenly with kosher salt. Put in the oven and cook for approx 12 minutes (depending on your oven) or until just pink. You will need to stir the prawns around the 7-minute mark. Remove from the oven. Place on a platter, pour any cooking juices over the prawns. Squeeze the juice of your orange over the prawns and serve immediately. If using a grill: place prawns all over the grill, turn once and cook until just pink. Place on a platter, squeeze the juice of an orange over the prawns and serve immediately.
Baccala Carpaccio with shaved Fennel Salad
Using a mandolin or a sharp knife, thinly slice the fennel and place in a bowl with the parsley. Toss enough vinaigrette in the fennel to just coat. Season the salad to taste with salt and vinaigrette. Evenly place the fennel salad over the baccala. Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a light crack of black pepper. Serve with a few lemon wedges if desired.
Christopher’s Moscardino Christopher Hyde is the chef at Bar Bricco and will be the chef at our new restaurant Uccellino, opening in a couple of months. Christopher moved to Canada six years ago from Melbourne, and started at Corso when we first opened. We have worked together almost everyday since then. He comes to many family dinners during the holidays. Here is his famous Moscardini that he made on Christmas Eve last year; it is truly incredible. Spanish onions finely diced
This salad is so fresh and full of great textures. It is important to find very good olive oil for this; stop by the Italian Centre Shop for a large selection of olive oils from all over Italy.
3 cloves
garlic thinly sliced
2
bay leaves
1 t
dried pepperoncini
1 400 g
1
lemon, juiced and zested
salt and black pepper
piece dried baccala fillet
2 bulbs fresh fennel (medium-size), washed and peeled
2 bottles dry red wine
Italian flat leaf parsley
8 c
6 sprigs
1 clove
garlic, minced
1 lemon
½ c
extra virgin olive oil
¼ c high-quality extra virgin olive
1 T
chili flakes
kosher salt
14 November December 2015 | The Tomato
Using a very sharp knife, slice the baccala against the grain as thin as possible. Lay the thin slices around a cold platter.
2 small
chopped
shop)
Place the lemon juice and olive oil in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Mix with a whisk to emulsify. Season to taste with salt.
oil (Sicilian if possible)
kosher salt and black pepper
Soak the baccala for 48 hours in cold water, change the water twice a day.
water
3 kg baby octopus strained and no excess liquid 3 T
extra virgin olive oil
1 knob
unsalted butter
1 handful roughly chopped flat leaf parsley
Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Sauté onion until translucent. Add garlic, chili, bay leaves and octopus, cook for approximately 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the lemon zest, red wine and water. Bring to a boil, turn down to a simmer, simmer for 3 hours or until the octopus is tender and the liquid is reduced to a thicker consistency. You will need to skim off any impurities that rise to the top during the simmering process. Remove from the heat. Finish by adding the butter, chopped parsley, salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Serve with grilled bread.
Spaghetti con Vongole (Spaghetti with Clams) One of my favourite pastas of all time is spaghetti con vongole. The briny flavours of the clams with the wine, fresh parsley and the heat of pepperoncini are just perfect. I like my spaghetti to be quite al dente in this dish. You will have to work quickly when making this sauce; be sure not to burn your garlic or you will have to redo everything. Whatever you do, please do not put cheese on this, it will mask all of the beautiful flavours you developed. 1 pkg (450 g) spaghetti (I suggest
2 minutes short of cooking instructions or until quite al dente. While the pasta is cooking: In a large, deep frying pan (big enough to generously hold the cooked pasta) heat the olive oil over high heat. Once the oil is hot (not smoking) add the garlic, quickly stir, once garlic is almost golden add the clams, chili flakes and white wine, put the lid on nice and tight, cook until clams are just opened, approx 5 - 6 min. Using a slotted spoon remove the clams, place in a bowl and set aside for a couple of short minutes. Using tongs or prongs drag the spaghetti directly out of the cooking water into the pan with the sauce. Add ½ c of the pasta cooking water to the pasta, cook over high heat stirring constantly until the sauce is loosely coating the pasta, toss in the clams and parsley. Serve immediately.
A Sensory Experience!.. The ShopS aT Boudreau | ST. alBerT, alBerTa #109 150 BelleroSe dr. | hickSfinewineS.com | 780-569-5000
Daniel Costa is owner/executive chef of Corso 32, Bar Bricco and the soon to be opened Uccellino.
Need an escape during the holidays?
Rustichella d’Abruzzo found at the Italian Centre Shop) 3 cloves
garlic, thinly sliced
1 T
chili flakes
½ bottle
dry white wine
ChocolateHaven.ca
1 handful Italian parsley, roughly chopped 30
fresh manilla clams
3 T
kosher salt
Visit us online for market & show details!
¼ c high-quality extra virgin olive oil
Bring 8L of water to a boil in a large pot with the salt. Add the spaghetti and cook
@_chocolatehaven (780)996.7247
Fine Wines by Liquor Select Fine Wines | Exceptional Staff | Private Tasting Room Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen. 8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com
“But where,” she wondered, “would she find that drink she loved so much? Customized baskets and gift cards for all her gift-giving needs? Exclusive tastings, classes and Wine Club? A warm, welcoming store and the best staff in town?”
West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58, Beneath Simons Like us on Facebook • Follow us on Twitter • Find us on Yelp www.aligrawineandspirits.com • 780.483.1083
The Tomato | November December 2015 15
bonjour
Wine Maven
Good bread, speciality cheese. Tonight, or for a special occasion
8612-99 Street 780.433.5924 www.bonjourbakery.com
Marcia J Hamm, Hicks Fine Wines; Lorenzo Scavino, Azelia de Luigi Scavino; Jeff Sparling, Liquor Select; Chris McKenna, Bin 104 at a tasting at The Marc.
Lovers of Barolo learn to be patient. The wine, often tight and unforgiving in its youth, needs time to develop its characteristic lushness and beauty. So, when a vintage like 2011 comes along, with its early approachability, Nebbiolo lovers rejoice. But, it’s a vintage with a lot of variability so it pays to look for estates that have unmistakable terroir, such as Azelia in Castiglione Falletto. “It’s very important for my father to pick ripe grapes, to wait until the tannins are fully ripe,” says Lorenzo Scavino, proprietor. “Then, my objective is fruit; we age in tanks, cement tanks, then in bottle. No oak at all.” Look for the cru Barolos Bricco Fiasco, Margheria and San Rocco at fine wine shops and some restaurants such as Corso 32. Back vintages and library wines will be available soon. For more everyday drinking, the deliciously fresh and fruity Dolcetto is widely available, around $20.
you know you want more...
Frans Smit, chief winemaker of Spier Wine Farm in Stellenbosch, spoke at a dinner at La Ronde and poured wines from three tiers, Spier, Creative Block and 21 Gables. “After 18 years, I am starting to understand the terroir much better. Our vineyard practices and winemaking have changed to better reflect that terroir. For example, our flagship, the 21 Gables Chenin Blanc, comes from an non-irrigated block where the vines are 45 years old. The yields are low and we come though several times picking only what’s ripe. We sort the bunches, it goes into the barrel and stays there for 14 months. “We are reducing chemical use in general and cooper in all the vineyards. The yields came down but the vineyards are in balance now. We don’t have to pick so super late to get the ripeness, we have good balance and natural acidity at lower alcohol levels and more oak integration. We’ve been organic for the past seven years and just made our first biodynamic wine. It’s all very exciting.”
16 November December 2015 | The Tomato
Mary Bailey
Hennessy ambassador Jean-Michel Cochet says it’s OK to drink cognac on the rocks. “The VS on one big ice cube is nice,” he says, “or in a cocktail, a stinger or a sidecar.” But not the Hennessey 250. The special bottling was created in honour of the company’s 250th anniversary from selected eau de vie cellared in 250 specially built barrels. The 250 is as magical as you would expect, savoury rather than sweet, delicate, smoky with hints of ginger and saffron, with a lean and powerful palate hinting of lemony citrus rather than fleshy orange. Remarkable, unique, complex and concentrated.
SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton
Francois Chartier’s book Taste Buds and Molecules:The Art and Science of Food, published in 2010, was revolutionary. Here was a Quebec sommelier saying you could identify great food and wine pairings through similarities in their molecular signatures. Heady stuff. Since then Francois has consulted with the gastronomic elite and will publish a second book this summer. For his own wine project he went back to a trusted colleague, Bordeaux oenologist Pascal Chatonnet, “Pascal, I want the wines to go with this; I thought of the food first,” Francois said over dinner at Rge Rd. A lively communicator and all-round bonhomme, Francois makes it seem so simple. Find his wines at Sobey’s — you’ll recognize them as they have the pairings on the label.
introducing our new
Cocktail Club
*Flare Bartending Optional. Tom Cruise not included.
Daniel Robillard photo
find out more in-store or online 0.455.4556 RT TRAIL | 78 11819 ST ALBE
LIQUOR.COM
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The Tomato | November December 2015 17
A VA L E N T I N E S E V E N T F O R T H E K I D S K OT TAG E F O U N DAT I O N
MUSIC B
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SA DOMNDRO INEL LI M I N AT
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Enjoy hundreds of wines, silent auction, live jazz, elegant food pairings and some new surprises!
Friday, February 19, 2016 from 7pm – 10pm at the Chateau Lacombe Hotel
For tickets www.kidskottage.org or call 780-448-1752
Where all the best parties happen.
780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street
Beer Guy Think global, drink local “Why go out for hamburger when you have steak at home?” Paul Newman was talking about infidelity, but it might be applicable to eating—and drinking—locally.
Alley Kat’s excellence was recognized in 2015 when its Scona Gold Kölsch was awarded the overall Beer of the Year award at the Canadian Brewing Awards. And yet many Edmontonians don’t realize that in Alley Kat they have steak at home.
The locavores have won. Local food is now a full-fledged “thing”. Sometime in the past few years local food clicked for people. We realized that local food—the pork from Irvings Farm, the spuds from The Little Potato Company, the gouda from Sylvan Star Cheese—was just as good, or better, than the stuff from far away. And with local sourcing noted proudly on some chain restaurant menus, it seems the battle to have people pay attention to their food is won, if not the war. But what about local beer? Alas, the battle for the hearts and minds—and palates—of Edmonton beer drinkers rages on. Recently I dined at 12 Acres, a great new farm-to-table restaurant in St. Albert. The waiter’s enthusiastic description of how the restaurant sources its beef from its own cattle from a farm nearby had me thinking of Portlandia: “Is the chicken local? Yes, and his name was Colin.” 12 Acres has a lovely, large craft beer menu, including four on tap—but none of the four were local beer.
Down the QE2 in Calgary, Big Rock Brewery turned 30 years old, and yet was acting like a teenager, experimenting and trying new things. Brewmaster Paul Gautreau kept a dizzying pace, producing new beers like the Wai-Iti Wheat Ale made from exotic New Zealand hops or the Smoked Roggenbier, made from smoked rye malt. And in a fun nod to its 30th birthday, Big Rock brewed its three original beers, Traditional, Porter and Bitter from the old 1985 recipes and released them at 1985 prices.
The local food aha moment has yet to arrive for local beer. But we’re getting there. Indeed, until recently 12 Acres could have found some local beer right in St. Albert, but 2015 saw the closure of Hog’s Head Brewing (and with it the Amber’s brand as well). In 12 Acres’ defence, only Yellowhead and Alley Kat remain as viable local craft brewers. Happily, Alley Kat continues to go from strength to strength, celebrating 20 years of brewing great craft beer in 2015. 18 November December 2015 | The Tomato
In addition to new beers, Albertans tried on a new government in 2015. The previous government gave us private liquor retailing and the open borders that give local beer drinkers the best selection in Canada. But the system also makes it more difficult for small Albertabased brewers, competing against hundreds of competitors. On the other hand, in 2013 the government lowered the minimum brewing capacity required for a new brewery start-up. This decision began bearing fruit in 2015 with new breweries starting up: Two Sergeants in Fort Saskatchewan, Troubled Monk in Red Deer, Six Corners in Okotoks, Dandy in Calgary and Coulee Brew in Lethbridge. And 2016 holds the promise of a bevy of new breweries, including the Ritchie Market project and Situation Brewing in Edmonton, Brauerei Fahr in Turner Valley and Bench Creek Brewing in Edson, and rumours of many more to come. Local beer is on the march.
Peter Bailey
2015 faves six-pack
OBSESSIVELY GOOD
Drink local, sure, but sometimes it is good to drink someone else’s local! I enjoyed trying local beer in my travels in 2015 and it is great to enjoy them again back home in Edmonton. Some favourites:
Christmas baking.
Maui CoCoNut Porter, Maui
Order yours before it’s gone.
On my first trip to Maui years ago I had a beer epiphany at the Hali’maile General Store restaurant. The gorgeous, velvety porter with a touch of real toasted coconut was simply amazing. This year I toured Maui Brewing’s expanded brewery in Kehei and was pleased to see bags of malt marked Gambrinus Malting, Armstrong, BC. Alberta barley I bet.
Ballast Point Grapefruit Sculpin IPA, San Diego More iconic U.S. craft beers made their way to Alberta this year, including this stunner from Ballast Point. Even among San Diego’s many excellent west coast American IPAs (Green Flash, Stone, AleSmith) Sculpin stands out. Here they add grapefruit and bump the citrus up a big notch. One sip takes me back to the surf of Mission Beach.
8720-149 Street • bonton.ca
Driftwood Fat Tug IPA, Victoria Trips to B.C. used to mean hauling back bottles of Driftwood Brewery’s outstanding beers, including their award-winning American IPA. Happily, Driftwood is now available in Alberta, which means full access to this intensely hoppy (80 IBU), citrusy Pacific Northwest IPA.
Ribstone Great White Combine White IPA, Edgerton Way out on the Alberta prairie, in the middle of not much, there’s a craft brewery showing the way forward. Quality, interesting beer. Good people. Great branding. Here they combine a witbier with an IPA for the au courant white IPA style. Hoppy yet soft and fruity and all delicious.
In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience • Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850 1 2015-10-19 11:24 AM
Village Gardener, Calgary It takes a village to raise a beer says Village Brewery. And with their “Community Involved Ale” they really mean it, brewing an intensely local beer with hops, rhubarb strawberries and Nanking cherries grown by seven communities throughout Calgary. Plus honey from local apiaries and local barley.
Tomato Ad-Nov-Dec.pdf
C
M
Alley Kat Alberta Dragon Double IPA, Edmonton For Alberta Beer Week and their 20th anniversary, Alley Kat brewed a truly local, all-Alberta beer, with Alberta barley, Edmonton water and for the first time commercially, Alberta hops grown west of Edmonton by Northern Girls Hopyard. A dream come true for Alley Kat owner Neil Herbst. Peter Bailey knows “the skyline of Toronto is somethin’ you’ll get onto”, but he’s always glad to be Alberta Bound. He tweets as @Libarbarian.
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
Join us for specials throughout the week! ‘Happy Monday’… all wine bottles are discounted! ‘Wing Wednesday’… chicken wings are half price! ‘Thirsty Thursday’… all beer is on sale!
K
@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228
www.theglassmonkey.ca
5842-111 Street
The Tomato | November December 2015 19
What Do You Eat?
Shawna Dirksen with photo by Curtis Comeau Photography
Dr. David Turpin, University of Alberta President What Do You Eat asks Edmontonians who are in the news for reasons other than food or culinary achievement what they eat. Because we know everybody wants to know—it’s the food equivalent of peeking in the medicine cabinet. U of A’s 13th president is responsible for the wellbeing of 40,000 students and 15,000 employees as well as general operations of the $1.5-billiondollar budget. On his own time Dr. Turpin likes cooking, spending time outside, and getting out and exploring Alberta.
Q: What are your eating habits? I tend to be a three-meal-a-day person, but that’s evolved over time. I remember as an under-graduate student I’d never eat breakfast. I’d just get up, head to the lab, and work, work, work. Mid-day I’d start to get really hungry, so I’d start my three meals with lunch as the first one, then it was dinner, then I’d eat again at midnight or whatever (laughs). It’s a little more structured now. Q: What will your next meal be? A very quick sandwich lunch and tonight my wife and I are going to have some wonderful leftovers. Q: What do you always have in your fridge or pantry? Wow, that’s a huge list—I don’t know where to start. There would always be eggs and milk, there would be garlic, ginger, parsley, cilantro. We have a huge spice drawer that isn’t even big enough to hold half our spices. You’d always find fresh chilies and things like tamarind paste. Q: What is your signature dish? It’s absolutely impossible to choose a favourite dish. We consider ourselves so fortunate
20 November December 2015 | The Tomato
Shop where the chefs shop. because we love everything. Sometimes we’ll be cooking Thai or Indian or French, or we’ll do braised meats, or fresh fish. Something unique that we’ve come up with is barbeque cauliflower with fenugreek sauce. It goes wonderfully with Indian food, it goes nicely with a steak, you can make it mild, you can make it hot, you can do whatever you want with it, but it really pops the flavour of the cauliflower. You get that wonderful char and there’s a delightful sort of Indian feel to it. Fenugreek is a lovely seasoning for something like that. Q: What does food mean to you? It’s a way to connect with people. You share a very personal experience. Sustenance is easy, but the beautiful thing about what’s happening in terms of the food experience in Canada is there’s this beautiful global fusion.
278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449.3710 Open Monday to Friday 10 am - 5 pm • Saturdays 9 am - 5 pm
Q: Where do you shop now that you’re in Edmonton? We’re really enjoying the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market. Q: How often do you eat out and/or order take out? I eat out every week. Q: W hat is your favourite restaurant? It would be unfair to say at this point because there are so many good ones and we’re still exploring. Q: D o you take lunch to work, buy lunch, or go out for lunch? All of the above. Q: W hat is your comfort food (the one go-to food from your childhood you eat when you don’t feel well)? I wouldn’t eat any foods from my childhood when I don’t feel well… unless my mother made me. Shawna Dirksen is an Edmonton-based freelance writer who welcomes November’s wintery embrace with elaborate crock-pot dinners, chicken noodle soup and lots of red wine. By December, she’s taking life one Ferrero Rocher at a time.
www.wusthof.ca Experience the WÜSTHOF difference at a retailer near you: The Pan Tree 550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park
Hendrix Condon Barr 11935 145 St. Edmonton
Bella Casa Design Centre 9646 142 St. Edmonton
The Tomato | November December 2015 21
Feeding People
Celebrating 75 Years of Providing Festive Meals
Help us continue the tradition of giving. Your donation will help to provide Edmonton families in need with a festive meal this Christmas.
Donate today at ChristmasBureau.ca
Now serving Sunday brunch
Brazilian-Style 11am - 2pm
9929 109 Street NW www.pampasteakhouse.com 780.756.7030 22 November December 2015 | The Tomato
Famished in the name of love A wedding planner dishes on why the cocktail party wedding can be a very bad idea Google worst wedding ever and you will find it’s always about the food. Bad food, not enough food, no food. Not the decor, nor venue, not even the bride’s dress. I know this is true as I lived through one of the worst catering nightmares ever. The thought of it still makes me cringe. It was early in my career, I was working at a four star hotel and it was all my fault. They were a lovely young couple and their parents were paying for the wedding. They wanted a cocktail party with a few hors d’oeuvres, drinks and dancing, primarily because their budget wouldn't accommodate a sit-down dinner for the number of guests they wanted to have. The ceremony was to start at 7:30pm, with the party to follow. Right away I was concerned about people being hungry for dinner over that time period, but they assured me they had put the words “cocktail” and “hors d’oeuvres” on the invitation and that everyone would get the gist. They budgeted for six pieces of hors d’oeuvres per person and wedding cake. I expressed my point of view politely, managing to get them up to seven pieces per person. Due to my lack of experience (and confidence) at the time, I let it go at that and thought it would be fine. After all, their invitation was clear, and as they were not worrying about it, why should I?
Cut to mid-party: no food, clearly hungry unhappy guests, a horrified father of the bride saying; “Get anything, please, we’ll pay!” The kitchen team did what they could but it was too little too late to save the party. Most guests had left by then. The lack of food had unfortunately killed the whole event. Twenty years later, as an event planner with many great parties under my belt, I still shudder at the idea of a cocktail party-style wedding. Not an actual two-three hour cocktail party that runs from 5-8pm, but an event serving only hors d’oeuvres that runs over the dinner period into the night. I am starting to think most people who desire this style of event have seen too many weddings on soap operas: guests with champagne glasses in hand happily mingling, not eating. Only on TV. People expect to be fed.
No Food, No Fun I have actually lost a few potential clients because of speaking up on this issue. Like this couple: the wedding was going to be on New Year’s Eve at a swanky venue. They wanted to have a party with hors d’oeuvres, not a stuffy dinner. But when they shared their budget, I recommended more of it be put towards food. Not happy with that advice, they booked someone else to plan their wedding. Later, guests I knew who had attended said it had been a complete disaster with over half of the guests leaving before 11pm. On New Year’s Eve! How sad. Lesson learned: Hungry guests are not joyful nor do they party down.
Shell Albert
Know Your Guests Another big mistake people make is they don’t consider the guest list. Is everyone under 30? Or are there some oldsters who will probably want to sit at some point, especially during speeches? I did a second wedding with a couple in their forties. They really wanted everyone to mingle and insisted on not having enough seats for everyone, as the assumption was people would sometimes sit and sometimes stand. They did have the budget for plenty of food, so my concerns were assuaged on this point. However, another important part of the program for this couple was the speeches. Let me just say they had some things to say! Forty-five minutes of speeches later, guests were visibly uncomfortable, shifting from foot to foot, listening while balancing a plate and glass. They just wanted to sit down. You could feel the energy in the room dissipate, guests weary from standing and eating, then cranky from standing and listening. When that happens, you see the life go out of their eyes; they lose the mood to party and just want to go home. Which is what happened, with only a third staying to dance, which was a shame as we had a really great DJ. It can work: I had a couple who loved to dance and wanted a rocking receptionstyle party with seating for most of the group (we had whittled speeches down to just three two-minute toasts). They had the budget and the guest list for it, so it all worked out well for them. Having Hors D’oeuvres for Dinner is Expensive If you want a cocktail party for your wedding, keep in mind that it actually is more expensive than a sit-down dinner. Hors d’oeuvres are extremely labour intensive and made with expensive ingredients—you get less overall food for your money. Plan the Style of Event Based on What You Can Afford If it is a budget issue, you can have an inexpensive wedding and still feed
everyone, but you need to make food and beverage number one: it should be 40 per cent or more of your overall budget. Expect to show up on the wedding disaster forums if you book the most expensive venue in town and spend big on the décor, the flowers and the dress, but not the food. There is nothing unhappier than a hungry guest who knows the bride spent $5,000 on her designer gown and scrimped on the food. I have successfully helped friends of mine who were struggling artists plan great weddings events on a budget. For a wedding in a hall we ordered Indian food, with gelato and seasonal berries for dessert—a total hit. Another was in a tent, with burgers, potato salad and wedding cake. Guests loved it and it suited the charming backyard feel of the party. Way back when, most weddings just served cake and punch in the afternoon, which can be delightful. Other options are brunch weddings or afternoon garden parties. Don’t go overboard on your budget if you can’t afford it; your guests are happy to be a part of your day as long as you have managed their expectations and not invited them for a full evening party with not enough food to eat or places to sit. Heed Expert Advice If the idea of an evening cocktail partystyle wedding still appeals to you, really consider your budget and your guests’ comfort before you opt for this style of event. Proceed with my cautionary experiences in mind and above all, listen to your catering and event manager. They have the experience, have lived through the disasters and have your best interests at heart. Unless, of course, you are the producer of One Life to Live. Shell Albert is an accomplished event and wedding designer who has worked throughout Canada, United States and Europe. Her events have been featured in Wedluxe, Wedding Bells, Elegant Bride and Style Me Pretty.
The Tomato | November December 2015 23
Family Holiday Recipes Every family has a few recipes they pull out at the holidays, some predictable, such as sugar cookies or fruitcake, some not so great, like those cornflake chocolate things; but, the holidays wouldn’t be the same without them. We canvassed a few chefs for some of their favourite festive dishes.
Gallette “Each year my family’s holiday dinner table included my mom’s pickled beets, her pistachio pudding and my Dad’s gallette, a soft bread which he only made for special holiday dinners. Although it’s French, my dad is Métis, so it is possibly an inherited recipe, regardless... it’s great!” –Shane Chartrand, executive chef, Sage
Gallette
Turkey Dinner Sausage Rolls with Cranberry Aioli “These delicious sausage rolls are absolutely beautiful warm, straight out of the oven or just as yummy cold.” –executive chef, Liana Robberecht, WinSport Winter Sport Institute
Cranberry Aioli 2 T
cranberry sauce
⅓ c
mayonnaise
½ zest
of orange
¼ zest
of lemon
pinch
fresh cracked pepper
1 T
white wine
Mix all together, adjust seasoning to taste.
Sausage Rolls 5 oz
ground turkey
3 oz
ground pork olive oil
6 c
flour
3 T
6 T
baking powder
¼ t
salt
½ small red onion, peeled and finely diced
¾ c
canola oil
1 sprig
fresh sage, leaves picked
2 c
milk
pinch
dried thyme
1 t
fresh parsley, chopped
Mix all but the milk in the food processor using the dough hook attachment. Once incorporated, slowly add the milk. If needed, add more milk ¼ cup at a time until it forms a “shaggy” dough. Turn onto the counter top and knead a few times to bring everything together. Place on a pan lined with parchment paper and form the dough into a log 16 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 4 inches tall. Flatten the top, dock the dough with your fingers deeply and in rows of 4. Bake 300ºF for 1 hour. Keep in linen and wrap when not needed. Makes 1 loaf.
pinch nutmeg 250 g
ready-made puff pastry
1
free-range egg
In mixing bowl, add ground meat with the cooled sage, thyme and onion mix. Add egg, parsley, nutmeg, then scrunch well with your clean hands to mix together. Divide into 4 equal portions. On a floured work surface, roll the pastry out into a big rectangle as thick as a pound coin and cut it lengthways into two long, even rectangles. Roll the mixture into sausage shapes with your hands and lay along the center of each rectangle. Add a tablespoon of stuffing on top of the mixture. Fold one side of the pastry over, wrapping the filling inside. Press down with your fingers or the edge of a spoon to seal the joint. Brush top of your pastry with melted butter. Cut the long rolls into the sizes you want and space them out on a baking tray. Brush with the rest of the egg wash and bake in the preheated oven for approx. 25 minutes or until puffed, golden and cooked through. Serve with Cranberry Aioli. Serves 4.
Claude’s Onion Tart “Claude Buzon would make this for Bastille Day. We like it for Christmas Eve,” –Patrick Saurette, The Marc Restaurant.
4 T
cold stuffing
¼ c
melted butter
3-4 onions, sliced in ½ inch
salt and pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 350ºF Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and add the onions. Cook gently until soft and golden brown. Add the sage leaves and thyme. Cook for a couple of minutes more and then spread out on a plate to cool.
24 November December 2015 | The Tomato
ready-made puff pastry rounds
milk 1 egg 1
egg yolk
pepper
grated nutmeg
grated Parmigiano
Place pastry on a greased cookie tin and make a one-inch rim all around. Keep chilled until ready to use. Sauté the onions in lots of butter until very soft and golden. Reserve. In the same pan make a white sauce with more butter, flour, milk, the egg, pepper and nutmeg. Mix in the cooked onions, check for seasoning, then spread evenly on the prepared crust. Dust with Parmigiano. Bake at 375ºF for about 20 minutes until the pastry is puffy and a deep golden brown. Serve warm or cold.
Baked Corn “Recipe by Blair Lebsack in collaboration with my mom Irene Lebsack. We call this corn and bacon succotash at the restaurant.” –Blair Lebsack, executive chef/owner, Rge Rd. 3 cobs
corn
1
roasted red pepper
¼
red onion
2
green onion
1
jalapeño pepper
¼ c
chicken stock
½ c
heavy cream
2 strips
thick bacon
¼ lemon ¼ c great northern beans (cooked) ½ c
fresh fava beans
1 pinch
salt and pepper
3
eggs hardboiled*
breadcrumbs*
Soak corn in cold water for 15 minutes with husks on. Place corn directly on med-hot bbq or grill and cook for 10
minutes, turning a few times. Take corn off and remove husks. Slice corn off the cob and put in a bowl. Roast, seed and peel a red pepper. Cut red pepper, red onion into small dice, mince jalapeño, slice green onion and dice bacon. Heat a sauté pan, large enough to hold all ingredients, to medium. Add bacon and cook for 5 minutes, add red onion, jalapeño and cook for 2 minutes, add roasted red pepper, corn, white beans and fava beans. Add chicken stock and cream to pan and allow it to simmer and reduce down. Season with salt, pepper and lemon to taste, add green onion, stir to incorporate. Cook succotash until it’s as thick as cold heavy cream. Pour into oven-safe dish. Slice hardboiled eggs, lay over the top, sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Place in the oven at 375ºF and bake until breadcrumbs are brown and dish is bubbling. *My mom’s secret ingredients.
Madame Benoit’s Maple Walnut Fudge “My mother was a huge fan of the early Canadian culinary champion, Madame Benoit. This fudge was part of every Christmas,” –Mary Bailey, editor of The Tomato.
or hold in one hand. Stir constantly to keep the mixture from foaming over. The colour will deepen as the mixture becomes more syrupy. Stir until the mixture reaches 240°F on the candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. Turn off the burner and let the mixture cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Add vanilla and butter, and stir until mixed. Add nuts, if using; stir to mix. Pour the fudge mixture into an 8×8 cake pan, lined with parchment. Cool, then cut into squares and wrap in cello or waxed paper. The fudge keeps at room temperature for up to two weeks, for best flavour and texture, and can be frozen if necessary.
Doris’s Mocha Pecan Balls “Our son Matthew would sneak these when he was little and be completely wired.” –Doris Saurette, The Marc Restaurant butter, softened
½ c
sugar
2 t
vanilla
1 T
instant espresso powder
¼ c
unsweetened cocoa powder
¾ t
salt
1¾ c
flour
November 7: Short Film Challenge winners; Cheese; The Empire of Scents
finely chopped pecans
For tickets and other info, visit
amber maple syrup
2 c
3 c
packed brown sugar
icing sugar for dusting the
1 c
white sugar
2 T
baking powder
2 c
heavy cream
2 T
vanilla
1 T
butter
1 c (or to taste) fresh walnut pieces
Blend maple syrup, sugars and cream in a large, high-sided pot on medium heat. When fully mixed, add salt and baking powder. Stir constantly while the baking power dissolves, turns the mixture a pale honey colour and starts to foam. Hook a candy thermometer on the side of the pot
OCTOBER 29 TO NOVEMBER 7
1 c
1 c
pinch salt
OCTOBER 29 TO NOVEMBER 7
in the Garneau Theatre
www.relishfilmfest.org
cookies
@RelishFestyeg
Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla, espresso powder, cocoa powder, and the salt. Beat mixture well, add flour until just combined, then fold in pecans. Cover the dough and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Roll the dough into 1-inch balls and arrange 1-inch apart on baking sheets. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, just until firm. Cool for 5 minutes on the sheets, then toss warm cookies in batches in a bowl of icing sugar to coat. Makes about 60 cookies.
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The Tomato | November December 2015 25
Alberta Beverage Awards A selection of top rated wines from the 2015 edition of the Alberta Beverage Awards. Find the entire list at the tomato.ca/ABB2015.
Bordeaux Blends Top Value 2012 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Cabernet-Merlot (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia) $24
Cabernet Sauvignon Judges’ Selection 2012 Rodney Strong Vineyards Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma, California) $25
Chardonnay Judges’ Selection 2013 Joseph Drouhin Chablis de Vaudon (Burgundy, France) $33
Best of Italy Top Value 2013 Botter Gran Passione Veneto Rosso (Veneto, Italy) $20
Sparkling Wines Best in Class H. Blin NV Brut (Champagne, France) $55
White Blends Judges’ Selection 2014 Torres Vina Esmeralda (Catalunya, Spain) $17
After Dinner Best in Class 2013 Paradise Ranch Riesling Icewine (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia) $56
Fruit Wine Judges’ Selection Takasago Plum Sake Ume (Japan) $40
Fortified Wine Judges’ Selection Fonseca 20 Year Old Tawny Port (Douro, Portugal) $65
26 September October 2015 | The Tomato
FINE WINE, SPIRITS AND ALES
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INSPIRE YOUR IMAGINATION Celebrate the best Alberta has to offer with Contemporary Canadian inspired cuisine; infused with antioxidant rich superfoods and locally sourced ingredients. Not to be missed is the Gold Medal Plate award winning terrine of pine smoked sturgeon & Québec foie gras. Our intimate ‘rustic-elegance’ inspired dining room, complete with Chef ’s Table is the perfect choice for any occasion.
The Hostess Gift Mary Bailey
A few years ago someone came to my house with two beer. At first I thought they were bringing their own beverage; fair enough, some people only drink certain things. But, they were in a six-pack and they were warm. I put them in the fridge. I believe they are still in the fridge. I guess it was a hostess gift. The hostess gift. There are not many social moments more fraught with anxiety than thinking about what’s appropriate. Do you bring, what to bring, what’s too little, what’s too much? A hostess gift, not to be expected yet so nice to receive, is the grace note that calms the rough seas of daily life. But when it’s odd or just wrong, like an obvious regift passed off as something special or a bottle of critter wine, what to do? Cococo Chocolaterie Ballotine Cococo Chocolaterie offers chocolate bars, bunnies and baseball gloves but we love the classic bronze-coloured ballotine box, especially when filled with sea salt caramels. At Cococo and Bernard Callebaut stores, from 2 pieces to 75, $4-87.
LAKRIDS by Johan Bülow Created on a Danish island by a 23-year-old, Lakrids is like no other. It’s handmade boiled liquorice available in sweet, salty and a variety of seasonal flavours. Fans of Lakrids used to have to go to Copenhagen or London for their fix. Not any more. Find it at Cavern and the Italian Centre South, $10-$15. It has a sweet creation story: liquorice.nu/pages/about-us.
28 November December 2015 | The Tomato
‘Oh you shouldn’t have.’
The hostess gift is all about the thought and never about the money. A regift in the form of a book; ‘I read this and thought of you’ is a welcome treat. So is a posy of wild grasses tied up in a ribbon. What a delight to receive a fresh Moleskin, its empty pages filled with nothing but promise; some quirky napkins; something delicious to eat. My all-time favourite hostess gift? Fresh donuts made by the gifter, still warm. Since few of us are that talented, here are some practical and lovely ideas to fit all occasions and budgets.
Willie’s Cacao Bars The Cuban Baracoa bean has a subtle honey flavour, the perfect partner to essential orange oil whereas the Indonesian Javan Light Breaking tastes of toffee and caramel. These bean-to-bar chocolate bars are carried by Bella Casa, Italian Centre West and the Wired Cup, 50g bar, $4.
Funky Chunky Funky Chunky chocolate popcorn and caramel, chocolate-covered pretzels and chips drizzled in white, milk and dark chocolate then broken into irresistable chunks, $17-26 at The Pantree.
The Newget Kompany The Edmonton-made nougat is always welcome. Sweet and savoury flavours in white, milk and dark chocolate as well as seasonal favourites, $7–$35 at Bon Ton Bakery, Blush Lane, City Hall Farmers’ Market, craft sales, and at newget.ca.
Savoir Faire Cheese Accessories and dipping dishes The Savoir Faire collection is made of acacia wood and slate in an attractive modern design. Coaster sets are $14, the cheese dome with slate insert is $50, combined with a chunk of quality cheese—an exceptional gift. Stocked at Bella Casa, the Italian Centre West, Hillaby’s and The Pantree.
Taittinger Brut Réserve The ultimate hostess gift, completely over the top, the grand gesture—a bottle of Champagne. Tattinger Brut Réserve is a good place to start, delicate, with citrusy lemon and grapefruit notes, mineral and honey flavours and a fine, elegant mousse, $60 at better wine shops.
The Gurgle Pot The hostess gift that makes you laugh is a rare treat indeed. The Gurgle pot makes a delightful gurgling sound as you pour. It comes in an array of brilliant colors and three sizes, $11-$45. Find at Gifts and Gadgets, Harlows, Hillaby’s, Lyndale Accents, Zocalo and the Wired Cup.
The Tomato | November December 2015 29
GIVE THESE BOTTLES OF WINE A GOOD HOME!
Pantry Genius dips for entertaining It pays to have dips around over the holidays for last minute guests or snacking. But they don’t have to be heavy mayonnaisebased calorie bombs, nor do they have to be served with crackers. Use cucumber slices, homemade potato chips, apple or pear wedges, crostini or pita.
Ottolenghi’s Hummus Ottolenghi’s is bar none the best hummus recipe we have found, smooth and creamy every time. You will never go back to making hummus with canned chickpeas. Adapted from Jerusalem: A Cookbook.
Look for these custom labels on select bottles of wine at participating stores and help the Edmonton Humane Society prevent cruelty to animals.
Bid Wine Alberta www.bidwine.ca
www.edmontonhumanesociety.com
1¼ c
dried chickpeas
1 t
baking soda
6½ c
water
1 c + 2 T tahini, light roast if possible
10940 - 120 Street Open Tuesday to Saturday www.GetItFresh.ca 780-732-7527 GLUTEN FREE HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD®
30 November December 2015 | The Tomato
Bagna Cauda You can buy very expensive jars of bagna cauda imported from Italy or you can make it yourself. The classic way to serve it is to dip the vegetable, then use some bread to catch the drippings. Guaranteed to make anybody eat their vegetables. ½ c extra-virgin olive oil (the best
freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 cloves
garlic, crushed
3 T
6½ T
ice cold water
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped (or
The night before, put the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover them with cold water at least twice their volume. Leave to soak overnight.
Gluten Free, Fresh
Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes, then refrigerate until needed. Make sure to take it out of the fridge at least 30 minutes before serving.
4 T
salt
Your LOCAL choice for Gluten Free since 1991
Place the chickpeas in a food processor and process until you get a stiff paste. Then, with the machine sill running, add the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and 1½ teaspoons salt. Finally, slowly drizzle in the ice water and allow it to mix for about five minutes until you get a very smooth and creamy paste.
The next day, drain the chickpeas. Place a medium saucepan over high heat and add the drained chickpeas and baking soda. Cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cook, skimming off any foam and any skins that float to the surface. The chickpeas will need to cook for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the type and freshness, sometimes even longer. Once done, they should be very tender, breaking up easily when pressed between your thumb and finger, almost but not quite mushy. Drain the chickpeas. You should have roughly 3⅔ cups now.
you can afford) butter more to taste) 10 filets salt-cured anchovy, rinsed, boned and finely chopped salt assortment of raw cut-up vegetables, celery, carrots, cauliflower, radicchio and endive spears work well. baguette or rustic loaf in bite-sized pieces.
Heat oil and butter in a pot over medium-high heat until butter begins to foam. Add garlic and cook for about 10 seconds. Do not let brown. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add anchovies. Cook, mashing anchovies with a wooden spoon until they are broken into very small pieces and dip is cloudy, about 3-4 minutes. Season to taste. Pour into a fondue pot or small flameproof casserole and pass with cut up vegetables and bread. Serve warm.
Blue Cheese with Toasted Walnut Spread
Charred Eggplant and Tahini Spread
3-4” wedge high-quality blue cheese
This spread, similar to baba ganoush, works as part of a meze or as a flavourful sandwich spread. If you can roast the eggplant over fire it will taste even better, as roasting over fire makes everything taste better. For a variation, add a couple of roasted (peeled and seeded) red peppers to the mix.
(Gorgonzola, St Ermite, Stilton, Cambozola) ½ c walnuts, lightly toasted and chopped 1-2 T
mayonnaise
squeeze
lemon juice
sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper
Let the cheese come to room temperature then mash in bowl. Fold in walnuts, mayonnaise and a squeeze of lemon juice to taste. Make it as smooth or chunky as you like. Check for seasoning, adding more lemon juice if desired. Transfer mixture to a small bowl. Serve with crostini or apple and pear slices. Makes about 1 cup.
Bean Dip 1 can (19-ounce) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 3 T
olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper ½ t fresh thyme, chopped handful
parlsey, finely chopped
Combine beans, oil, fresh lemon juice and thyme in a food processor bowl. Pulse until smooth. Check for seasoning, add parsley and pulse again until well mixed. (Or do by hand in a bowl.) Spoon unto an attractive bowl and serve with fresh red pepper slices, cucumber spears, other raw cut-up vegetables or crostini.
1 large
eggplant
¼ c
extra virgin olive oil
1 clove
garlic, finely grated
1 t
finely grated lemon zest
squeeze fresh lemon juice
1 T
tahini (sesame seed paste)
@themarcedmonton
www.themarc.ca
salt and fresh-cracked black pepper ¾ t
ground cumin
toasted sesame seeds
Preheat oven to 475°F. Place eggplant on a baking sheet or roast in the barbecue until charred and very tender, about 2025 minutes in the oven. Let cool until the eggplant can be handled. Remove seeds, then chop eggplant skin and all until a chunky paste. Mix all ingredients in a bowl with the eggplant paste. Check for seasoning. Let sit for a few hours to marry flavours. Before serving, drizzle with more oil and top with sesame seeds. Serve with pita bread.
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The Tomato | November December 2015 31
what’s new and notable Kitchen Sink restaurant buzz Happy Birthday Glass Monkey! The Lendrum Place Shopping Centre restaurant (5842 111 Street, 780760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) celebrates its second anniversary in December. It’s a family friendly room, in fact kids 12 and under eat free on Sunday evenings during November and December. The kitchen is open from 3:30pm until at least 10pm six days a week, closed Tuesdays. We love their burgers and the wine list. We look forward to the opening in 2016 of Daniel Costa’s new restaurant Uccellino next door to Bar Bricco on Jasper Avenue. The fabulous Chris Hyde heads up the kitchen. 12 Acres Restaurant (8 Mission Avenue, St Albert, 780-569-1779, 12acres.ca) now offers several daily food and drink specials. We’re excited about the $10 buttermilk chicken on Tuesdays, but you might prefer Thursday’s all you can eat chili. Pampa (9929 109 Street, 780-756-7030, pampasteakhouse.com) Here’s a great deal: Book your holiday party November 2-20, or January 11-31, 2016 and receive a $25 Pampa gift card per guest when booking a group of 20 or more. Chef Tony Krause is back at Privada Wine and Tapas (100-21 Perron Street, St. Albert, 780-569-5479, privadawinebar.com) bringing the fun back to tapas, with corn dogs, donuts, house-made chorizo, larger sharing plates and lots of pickles and preserves. Fans of Chef Krause’s Salt Room should check out the fivecourse tasting menu available Wednesday and Thursday. Madison’s in the Union Bank Inn (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com) offers holiday lunches and dinner from November 17 to December 23, and is now booking the sumptuous fivecourse Christmas Day and six-course NY Eve dinners, $99.50/guest. Book soon, they always sell out. Sage Restaurant at River Cree (300 East Lapotac Boulevard, Enoch, 780-484-2121, rivercreeresort.com/ dining.php) has a new dinner menu, all locally sourced at very accessible price points. The chef has achieved this by being careful about sourcing cuts—lamb ribs instead of luxury lamb racks for example and by offering a medium-sized plate with a more reasonable portion size. Nineteen (5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119, dine nineteen.com) just launched their winter menu, featuring Dijon lamb shank, Dungeness crab-crusted grouper, while keeping favourites such as the tuna twist appetizer, duck confit and hoisin shortribs. The new 32 November December 2015 | The Tomato
menu is also on offer at the second Nineteen at #104 150 Bellerose Drive, St. Albert, right by Hicks Fine Wines. Pampa (9929 109 Street, 780-756-7030, pampasteakhouse.com) Brunch like a Brazilian! Chef Joao Dachery’s new brunch menu features panquecas de carne, crepes with ground beef, eggs, fresh herbs, bechamel and Parmigiano and ovos mexido, scrambled eggs with salmon, cheese, tomatoes, onions, garlic and herbs. Brunch also includes over 50 hot and cold items and the charcoal-grilled meats carved tableside. Doesn’t get much better than that for brunch lovers.
product news The Italian Centre has a beautiful way to say grazie and te amo: an Italian Centre gift basket. Chose a basket on-line or call Gosia at 780-989-4869 for a custom look brimming with signature items and specialty foods. Or bring your own board and they will design a custom board with chunks of delicious cheeses, salumi, antipasti and fruit. Prices from $60, visit italiancentre. ca/store/gift-baskets. Baskets must be ordered at least a day in advance and picked up at the southside store, 5028 104A Street. Knifewear (10816 82 Avenue, 587-521-2034, knifewear.com) has moved two doors down to make room for White Ave’s newest addition, Kent of Inglewood (10820 82 Avenue, kentofinglewood. com) Canada’s shave shop. Knifewear’s Garage Sale is November 2-8. Expect to find smokin’ deals on prototypes, samples, scratch and dent items, and unique things owner Kevin Kent picks up on his travels. Find the Newget Kompany Downtown Market in City Hall on November 7, 14, 21 and December 5 and 12. Also at Make it, November 26-29, at the Royal Glenora Club Gift Show November 22 and at the St. Albert Country Fair on November 21-22. Place your Christmas orders online at newget.ca or email newgetko@gmail.com. K&K Foodliner (9944 82 Avenue, 780-439-6913, kandkfoodliner.com) is not only the place for all those wunderbar German holiday delicacies. Check out the charming hand-painted wooden incense burners, traditional German wooden smokers, that look like little chimney sweeps and Mr. and Mrs. Claus, 6” to 12” in height, priced from $20 to $120. Cally’s Teas (10151 82 avenue, 780 757-8944, callysteas.com) looks like a European Christmas market; fine Polish pottery, Japanese tea ware, heaps
of quirky and fun items to stuff the stockings for tea lovers and tasty food—Choc-Stars bars, Summerdown Peppermint Creams, Mrs. Bridges Lemon Curd and Mango Lime Ginger Chutney. Cally’s Customer Appreciation night Wednesday, November 18, with blueberry tea, door prizes, spot sales and a staff performance of Tea Tea Glorious Tea. A portion of sales is donated to the Suit Yourself Wardrobe for Women. Hillaby’s Tools for Cooks (101 Riel Drive, St. Albert, 780-651-7373; 14251 23 Avenue, 587-524-7277, toolsforcooks.ca) Children’s Tea and Cooking Sets, $40-$50. Lynn Hillaby, remembering her own childhood apple juice and Ritz cracker tea parties on cold winter days, has found a line of tea sets and cooking sets for kids that will bring back that fine tradition. Chocolate Haven is a new chocolate company you may have experienced at the Night Market this summer. Find their Christmas collection at Santa’s Little Helper Shopping Extravaganza at the River Cree, November 15, or check chocolatehaven.ca for custom ideas or to order their seasonal handmade bars and bonbons. Find exceptional raku pottery by Patti Hartnagel along with items from fellow artisans Othelia Jenkins, Brenda Grant, Isabel Becking and handcrafted treasures from Rwanda at the Holiday Studio Sale from 11am to 4pm, November 14 and 15, 12203 39 Avenue. New at The Pan Tree (220 Lakeland Drive, #550 Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca) Staub Tomato cocotte’s regular price is $320, promo priced at $180. The OXO Greensaver prolongs the life of produce using an activated carbon system, $22-27.
culinary travel and cooking classes Join chef Vinod Lohtia on a culinary tour featuring the flavours, culture, colours and history of south India, on the Culinary Journey of South India, September 17-30, 2016. Visit toureast. com/Destinations/ IndianSubcontinent/ India/Culinary-Journey-of-SouthIndia- with-Chef-Lohtia for all the details and itinerary. Kinnikinnick (10940-120 Street, 780-424-2900, getitfresh.ca) offers a free demo on Gluten Free Holiday Entertaining on Thursday, November 5. Lingua Vina director Margaux Burgess DWS has completed the Sherry Educators course in Jerez, Spain offered by the Consejo Regulador de los Vinos de Jerez
y Manzanilla, making her the sole certified sherry educator in Alberta and one of only two in Canada. Congrats Margaux! Cooking classes and demos at The Pan Tree (220 Lakeland Drive, #550, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca) November 3, Winter Desserts with Chef Toll; November 16, Nespresso Evening; November 17, Tacky Sweater Tapa Party with Chef Wu and Sarah Louise; November 18, Holiday Appetizers with Chef Cherwoniak.
wine tastings, happenings and events Fine Wines by Liquor Select (8924 149 Street, 780-481-6868, liquorselect. com) Annual Charity Christmas Open House December 2, 6:30-9:30pm. Grab your friends and come down to sample over 50 specialty wines, beers, and spirits. Donations at the door ($5+) will once again go to the Stollery Children’s Hospital Foundation. Relish Food on Film Festival November 6: The Cook it Raw Stories and An Alberta Farm plus modern farm panel; November 7 Short Film Challenge, Cheese, The Empire of the Scents by Kim Nguyen, with Skype Q&A with the director. Dinners and a movie at Craft Beer Market, Kitchen by Brad and Cafe Bicycelette. Visit relishfilmfest.org for info, trailers, schedules and tickets. Upcoming tastings and events at Hicks Fine Wines (109-150 Bellerose Drive, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines. com) November 5, 7pm Port Tasting, $80; November 17, 7pm, Riedel glass tasting with Privada Wine & Tapas, $125; November 24, 7pm, An Evening with Masi, special guest Masi ambassador J. Wheelock; December 3, 5-8 pm, Hicks Fine Wines Christmas Open House. Celebrate their first year in business and get ready for the upcoming holiday season. Holiday events at Aligra Wines & Spirits (#1423, West Edmonton Mall, 8882 170 Street, 780-483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com) December
1, 7pm, Christmas Spirits with Ken Bracke, $30; Saturday Sipping 2-6 pm; Give the gift of wine or spirits education, pre-pay for your friends for Christmas. Please register online at aligrawineandspirits.com/events. Keg ’n Cork, 3845 99 Street, 780-461-0191, kegnkork.com) Everything Malbec with Sebastian Mendoza of Bodega Enrique Foster, 7:30 pm, Thursday, November 5, $25; Taste of Christmas, 7pm, Thursday, November 26, $15. Let’s Rodeo! Chateau Lacombe Hotel (10111 Bellamy Hill, chateaulacombe. com) in partnership with WICC (Women in Insurance Cancer Crusade) is proud as punch to wrangle the inaugural Rodeo Week Pancake Breakfast. Git into the rodeo spirit and enjoy a full buffet breakfast with all the fixins. Western wear encouraged. Griddles on at 7:30am, Thursday November 12 in the Alberta Ballroom. For advance tickets ($20) call 780-428-8364.
Respected brands make respected gifts
Sign up for weekly cooking classes. Gift Cards also available! For information call 780.464.4631 or visit register.thepantree.ca #550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park, AB @PanTreeKitchen
/ThePanTree
Mark the date: The Kids Kottage Valentine Event, Love of Wine is Friday, February 19, at the Chateau Lacombe Hotel. Free entrance, free parking, a bake sale and lots of great door prizes along with stellar vendors (Fruits of Sherbrooke, River City Soups, Newget, Loyal Loot, Berg & Betts) makes The Royal Glenora Club Gift Show the don’tmiss craft sale of the season: Sunday, November 22 from 10am-3pm, 11160 River Valley Road.
in memoriam Rick Wood-Samman aka Dirt Willie passed away September 27. We remember visits to Dirt Willie’s compound near Elk Island National Park with fondness and will be eternally grateful to him for teaching legions of chefs how to cook a wild bird. Read Judy Schultz’s tribute on page 34. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.
The Tomato | November December 2015 33
According to Judy
Judy Schultz
The Bird Man of Strathcona County: A tribute to Rick Wood-Samman Way back in 1990, a man bought a few acres of land east of Edmonton bordering Elk Island Park. He had a bright idea about the land. Rick Wood-Samman, aka Dirt Willy, was famous for bright ideas, from vintage sports cars and ultralight aircraft to goldmining. This particular one involved opening a game bird farm and hatchery. I first met Rick Wood-Samman when I was the food writer at the Edmonton Journal and he was a pioneer in the game bird business.
Nourishing Entertainment! Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video. metrocinema.org
Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory
Reel Family Cinema - Presented in partnership with Relish Fest
November 7 at 1PM
When the last of five coveted “golden tickets” falls into the hands of a sweet but very poor boy, he and his grandpa get a tour of the strangest chocolate factory in the world. Free admission for kids 12 & under
Marilyn A tribute to Marilyn Monroe
Marilyn Monroe made only 30 films in her lifetime, yet her legendary status and mysticism will remain in film history forever. The Misfits - Dec. 5-7 Gentlemen Prefer Blondes - Dec. 12-14 Some Like It Hot - Dec. 19-21
Drunk Stoned Brilliant Dead: Dec. 6-10 The Story of the National Lampoon
From the 1970s-1990s, there was no more outrageous comedy in print than The National Lampoon, the groundbreaking humor magazine that pushed the limits of taste and acceptability. National Lampoon’s Animal House - Dec. 6 at 9PM National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation - Dec. 14 at 7PM
Metro Cinema at the Garneau
Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:
8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org
34 November December 2015 | The Tomato
His birds were beautiful. From the minute they were hatched, he was careful about their health and comfort. He cared about giving them space, natural light, green grass, and he reminded me of a good shepherd looking after a flock of sheep. I liked his style. He had great respect for his birds, with all their quirks and foibles. When I visited the farm I had to step through the disinfectant shoe bath before admiring the Chinese Ringneck Pheasants and wild Merriam Turkeys with their elegant autumn plumage. While he sang the praises of his birds, I’d mentally roast a couple of pheasants or one of those Merriams. At this time of year, their turkey feathers are coppery and gorgeous. The pheasants, too, are almost ready for harvest so they’re at their plump and pretty best, the hens soft grey with black speckles, like a good tweed. As is the custom in the bird world, the cock pheasants wear splashier, more colourful feathers, with a bright red flash on the head, a white ring around the neck, and a sheen of copper over the back. Early on, Wood-Samman came to understand that the average cook, and in
fact many chefs, hadn’t a clue what to do with a whole pheasant other than roast it to a frazzle or dry it out in a deepfryer, so he wrote his own cookbook. He gave me a lot of advice, a dozen recipes for glazes, sauces, brines and so forth, and then handed me a copy of Dirt Willy Pheasant Recipes, featuring a funny looking Ozark character on a blue paper cover. In an age of fifty-dollar cookbooks, his was marked five dollars, but I doubt if he ever saw a nickel from sales because he kept giving them away. Over the years he welcomed a lot of chefs to his farm, and the best of them began beating a regular path up his lane. His birds appeared on menus in the top restaurants around Alberta and beyond. The last order I placed with him was for 90 of his Chinese Ringneck pheasants, as a mystery ingredient in the Mayor’s Battle of Strathcona Chefs 2015. They arrived in meticulous order, each bird listed by individual weight. Our chefs displayed their creativity to the max, and it was a fitting tribute to a man who practised sustainable free-range game bird farming. If you combine the soft cuckling sounds of contented birds with a gorgeous autumn afternoon, you can understand why the bird man of Strathcona County so loved his little patch of Alberta countryside. Rick Wood-Samman, aka Dirt Willy, died September 27, a few days before his birthday. He’d have been 66. Too soon, Alberta’s food industry lost a friend and an advocate. Judy Schultz is a food and travel writer who divides her time between Canada and New Zealand.
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