Tomato November December 2016

Take a bite of your city | November December 2016 | thetomato.ca

A Bar Bricco Entertaining Menu, Christmas Market Cookies & Liquid Gifts

Chefs Daniel Costa and Micah Joffe.

9929 - 109TH ST NW | 780-756-7030 Edmonton’s First & Only Authentic Brazilian Steakhouse Wishing you a Wonderful Holiday Season!

pampasteakhouse.com

@EATPAMPAYEG

Contents Features

Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Chefs Daniel Costa and Micah Joffe make spuntini for Chistmas.

Publisher BGP Publishing

Copy Editor

Stuart Adams Peter Bailey Margaux Burgess Judy Schultz

Illustration/Photography Curtis Comeau Photography Randee Armstrong

Advertising Sales

Design and Prepress

take on an entirely new meaning in Italy’s Po Valley | Mary Bailey

For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca

26 Edmonton’s Gold Medal Plates The 2016 winners

Departments

Printer

For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net.

22 The Hardware Grill Family Tree The staff of legend

Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist

Greenline Distribution

18 The Kids Are Alright Second generation restaurateurs | Stuart Adams

WebMeister

Distribution

14 Ham and Cheese What we may think of as mundane sandwich ingredients

Shauna Faragini Bossanova Communications Inc.

8 Liquid Gifts From your cash-strapped friend and rich Uncle Bob

Stuart Adams

Contributing Writers

6 A Bar Bricco Entertaining Menu

5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

12 Feeding People Christmas Market cookies | Mary Bailey

16 Wine Maven Mary Bailey

20 Beer Guy Here we come a’wassailing | Peter Bailey

24 Drink Fortify me | Margaux Burgess

28 From the Archives Christmas with the Kitts

32 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

34 According to Judy

20

Twenty years and counting | Judy Schultz YEARS On the cover: Chefs Daniel Costa and Micah Joffe with Bar Bricco’s spuntini at home entertaining menu. (see page 6 for recipes).

Photo Randee Armstrong, randeearmstrong.com.

Celebrating Edmonton’s

20 YEARS

Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | November December 2016 3

Easy holiday entertaining.

Great food, great company.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. CafĂŠ.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

italiancentre.ca

CALGARY Willow Park

Dish

gastronomic happenings around town

scandi style for the holidays The Swedish dishcloth is ultra-absorbent, ideal for mopping up all sorts of messes in a beautiful fashion.

They are also biodegradable and go right into the compost heap when you are ready to say buh-bye.

Designed and hand-printed in Sweden and England, priced from $7. We especially love the new holiday patterns for hostess gifts and stocking stuffers. Find at: The Pan Tree, Bella Casa, Heart of the Home, Oil and Vinegar, The Wired Cup, Provisions by Duchess and other fine retailers.

learn to urn at zocalo Do you look at everyone else’s front porch floral urn with envy? Those graceful pine boughs with just the right amount of bling to herald the season? Learn to make your own seasonal urn-inset or contemporary seasonal floral tablescape at Zocalo. The urninsert class is on November 24 or December 1, the floral is December 8. Call 780-4280754 to reserve your spot. Zocalo, 10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754, zocalo.ca.

novo andina at the blue chair Check out the new menu at the Blue Chair.

“Our new chef Luis Daniel Diaz Mora (Daniel) is a recent transplant from Lima,” says owner Harold Wollin. “The Andean kitchen loves different beans, potatoes, with a definite penchant for chili, cilantro, onions and lime, but the real beauty is the various ways to use grains like quinoa.”

Love music? Think of the Blue Chair for NYE. The Blue Chair, 9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861, bluechair.ca.

have a sweet and salty christmas Liquorice fans couldn’t get enough of Lakrids by Johan Bülow last year. Created on a Danish island by a 23-year-old, Lakrids is a handmade boiled liquorice like no other, available in sweet, salty and three seasonal flavours: Rose Gold (cherry chocolate coated); Silver (dark and mint chocolate coated); Bronze (salty caramel).

Find your fix at the Italian Centre Shops and Maven and Grace from $14.95.

there’s a new brunch in town North 53 is now offering Sunday brunch from 11am-3pm. Their casual atmosphere (complete with a DJ spinning mellow grooves) is a relaxed spot to spend a Sunday afternoon catching up with friends. Indulge in a few brunch cocktails such as the London Fog or the Fruit Loop (tastes just like cereal milk) and the stick-to-the-ribs menu. We love the build-your-own-stack, buttermilk pancakes at $2 each with a host of toppings both sweet and savoury, the pork pie (or vegetable) pie redolent with south of the border flavours and the over the top delicious fried chicken sandwich, complete with poached egg. Soon to join the North 53 family is Baiju, downtown in the Mercer Building. North 53, 10240 124 Street, 583-524-5353, north53.com

yeg whodunit Jack Wear has parlayed his experience as a wine importer into A Taste Of Murder, a fascinating murder mystery set at a wine festival at the Shaw Conference Centre. The detectives have to solve the murder of an unpopular wine agent and in doing so are submerged in the belly of the wine business. The story gallops along to a satisfying conclusion while leading the reader through countless Edmonton locations and references.

never be without your rainbow scrubbie Stasia Nawrokci first brought the Rainbow Scrubbie to Canada over 25 years ago. Made by her brother in Poland, these virtually indestructible yet gentle scouring cloths have become essential in the workshop, the kitchen, even in the bathroom for foot care. New patterns and designs have joined the classic striped scrubbie. Find at the The Pan Tree, Barb’s Kitchen Centre, Hallmark, Southgate, Hillaby’s, Hole’s, Greenland and Salisbury Garden Centres, rainbowscrubby.com.

From top: fried chicken sammie at North 53; Swedish dishcloths in a holiday mood; A Taste Of Murder

by Jack Wear; learn to make this festive urn at Zocalo; the new-look Rainbow Scrubby; and Lakrids liquorice.

The Tomato | November December 2016 5

An Entertaining Menu

Spuntini by Bar Bricco

All photos Randee Armstrong.

Before Bar Bricco opened no one really talked about spuntini.

Appies maybe, or if it was part of a formal dinner, hors d’oeuvres, but not spuntini. Like many Italian words that have migrated to English, spuntini is more of a concept, or a way of eating, than just a dish. “Let’s go for spuntini at Bar Bricco” is always a most welcome invitation. Eating little bites served throughout the evening, drinking some wine, enjoying friends— exactly how we want to spend the holidays.

Bar Bricco chef Micah Joffe and Daniel Costa share some of their favourite spuntini to make at home. Recipes and words by Daniel Costa.

Pomegranate Bellini

Chicken Liver Crostini

I love making Bellinis during Christmas! It is so important that you use freshly squeezed juice.

If you are unable to juice freshly, just drink the Prosecco to avoid disappointment. Try the same ratio with fresh blood orange juice during the holidays.

This traditional Tuscan crostini is one of my favourite recipes of all time. The addition of Vin Santo is magic with the rich and delicious livers. Drink the remaining Vin Santo with your panettone at midnight.

pomegranates, halved

200 g cleaned chicken livers, pat dry

cold Prosecco

½ med

red onion, sliced

Place a strainer over a bowl and squeeze the juice from the pomegranates. Reserve any unsqueezed arils (the juicy red bits) Place 12 oz of fresh pomegranate juice in a pitcher, slowly pour in 1 bottle of Prosecco. Gently stir with a bar spoon then allow the froth to subside. Pour into flutes. Spoon a few reserved arils into each glass. Drink immediately.

2 T

butter

1 T

olive oil

1 T

capers

Serves 6-8.

3 olive oil-preserved anchovy fillets ¼ c

Vin Santo*

1 t

red wine vinegar

high-quality balsamic vinegar (optional) kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper

*Vin Santo is a Tuscan dessert wine made from air-dried Malvasia or Trebbiano grapes.

Look for Capezzana or Ricasoli Vin Santo at better wine shops.

1 loaf pain bonjour (Bonjour Bakery) or baguette cut into 1” slices

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and ½ tablespoon oil in a medium pan over medium high heat. Add the red onion

6 November December 2016 | The Tomato

with a pinch of salt. Cook until the onion begins to colour, then add the capers and anchovies. Continue cooking for 2 minutes stirring frequently. Remove from the heat but leave in the pan.

Heat the remaining butter and oil in a medium non-stick pan over high heat.

Add the livers and ensure they are evenly distributed around the pan. Season. Fry for approximately 5 minutes or until dark golden. Using tongs, flip each piece and cook for another 3 minutes or until just cooked through.

Place the cooked livers in the pan of onions, return to high heat, cook for 1 minute, add the wine and red wine vinegar, cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat; cool to room temperature.

Place the mixture in a food processor and pulse to your desired texture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat your oven to 450ºF. Drizzle the sliced bread with olive oil, roast until golden but not dry.

Place a dollop of liver mixture on each crostini, then drizzle with balsamic. Serve immediately.

Serves 6-8.

Frico with Fresh Horseradish This dish, typical of Friuli, is extremely addictive. Try adding some grated Granny Smith apples to your mix or possibly butternut squash. I really like the addition of fresh horseradish to give it the extra kick. You could substitute fresh truffles for the horseradish for a more decadent bite.

1 lg

Russet potato

300 g Montasio or Parmigiano cheese, coarsely grated ½ sm

yellow onion, thinly sliced

kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1 piece

fresh horseradish, peeled

2 T

olive oil

Place the potato in a small pot filled with cold water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil then simmer until the potato is just cooked through (not overcooked). Test by poking with a small sharp knife. Remove the cooked potato from the water and while hot, remove the skin with the back of a paring knife. Allow potato to fully cool. Coarsely grate using a box grater (does not have to be perfect).

000093_Holiday_TheTomato.pdf

Heat the oil in a medium non-stick pan over medium heat, add onion and a pinch of salt. Cook until the onion is translucent. Add grated potato to the pan, mix with the onion and cook for 1 minute. Raise heat to medium high, add the grated cheese and mix well. Using the back of a spatula, flatten the mixture in the pan. Cook for approximately 5 minutes without disturbing. This allows the cheese to fry and form a crust on the bottom. Shake the frico to loosen and check that the colour of the bottom is dark golden. If it is, place a large plate on the pan and invert the frico onto the plate then slide the frico back into the pan to allow it to cook on the other side for an additional 3 minutes. Slide onto a cutting board, allow to cool for 1 minute, cut into wedges. Top with your desired amount of freshly grated horseradish.

1

2016-10-21

9:03 AM

the squash to the pan and spread out to ensure each piece of squash is frying in oil. Cook until dark golden. Using tongs, flip each piece over, season with salt and continue cooking until just tender. Lower the heat to medium, add the garlic (try to place the sliced garlic where it will have contact with oil), vinegar, sugar and chili.

Cook for an additional 2 minutes, toss a few times to ensure everything is coated.

Remove from the heat. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then toss with the mint. Serve at room temperature for maximum flavour.

Serves 6-8.

Serves 6-8.

WE BAKE

C

M

Y

You E nterta in

CM

MY

CY

CMY

Zucca Agrodolce with Mint and Chili

Ricotta Crostini with Guanciale

I like to leave squash such as these unpeeled to heighten the flavour, texture and colour. Eat your zucca as is, or pile on a crostini.

One the many variations of crostini that we make with our ricotta at our restaurants.

1 sm

butternut squash

1 med

delicata squash

12 1” slice pain bonjour (Bonjour Bakery) or baguette

2 med

cloves garlic, thinly sliced

250 g

¼ c

olive oil

1 T

red wine vinegar

1.5 T

white sugar

50 g Parmigiano, freshly and finely grated (approx ¼ cup)

1 t

dried chili flakes

15

mint leaves

fresh ricotta

50 g Pecorino Romano, freshly and finely grated (approx ¼ cup)

salt

24 thin slices guanciale or pancetta

Rinse the squash under cold water to remove any dirt. Cut off and discard both ends of each of the squash. Halve each and remove the seeds. Slice the squash into 1” half moons or any shape you desire.

½ head Italian parsley, leaves picked

Heat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan on medium-high heat. Add

2 lemons freshly cracked black pepper

K

AVAI

LABL

O E N

M VE

BE

R

10

TH

Let COBS Bread take care of your holiday entertaining with Gingerbread Scones, Fruit Mince Tarts, French Baguettes and Dinner Rolls.

Baked fresh ever y day.

extra virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 450ºF.

CO BS B R E A D.COM/H O L I DAYS

Please see “Entertaining Menu” on page 30.

The Tomato | November December 2016 7

LIQUID GIFTS

from your cash-strapped friend and your rich uncle Every year we ask those who taste a lot of wine—restaurateurs, wine shop owners and wine reps for their favourite bottles of the year. Only two, mind you, and one has to be something that a friend with more taste than cash might want to give. And the other? What they would like to see under the tree from a rich and generous relative. This year the bounty includes Port, cognac and wine from every corner of the world. Dive in!

Paulette Scott, Pacific Wines From my cash-strapped friend Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2013 (Clare Valley, Australia) $24 Juicy with purple fruits (blueberry, blackcurrant) fine tannins with a smooth finish. Like a good friend, it’s always consistent and balanced.

From rich Uncle Bob Joseph Drouhin 2014 Clos de Vougeot (Burgundy, France) $330 The 2014 Burgundy harvest was exceptional, so if my rich uncle gave me the Drouhin Clos de Vougeot I would be one happy girl. Expect intense aromas evoking wild raspberry with undertones of truffle and candied fruit. The refined tannins create great structure. I may have to wait to drink this gorgeous wine as complexity will grow with age.

Jordan Lee, Crush From my cash-strapped friend Ca Dei Zago Col Fondo Prosecco 2015 (Valdobiaddene, Italy) $25 This wine is beyond cool. Only about 10 producers in all of Italy are making

Prosecco in the col fondo method.

Basically, this sparkler never sees a dosage or disgorgement. The winemaker believes that leaving the lees in the bottle is the best way to truly show the wine’s terroir. Feel free to decant this Prosecco or enjoy the cloudy wine right out of the bottle.

nose of violets and fruit, a hint of leather and persistent, mouth-filling flavour.

The Barolo is approachable now, and I would highly recommend decanting for one hour before serving. It will continue to evolve and with proper cellaring can be enjoyed over the next 10-15 years.

From rich Uncle Bob Gramercy Cellars Lagniappe Syrah 2013 (Washington State, USA) $85 Gramercy is about as cult as it gets—hard to find, top quality, and very limited production. The Lagniappe represents everything Gramercy strives to achieve— perfect harmony between new world and old world wine making styles. Think Hermitage on steroids!

Deb Pirker, Andrew Peller Import

Valerie Albrecht, Enotri From my cashstrapped friend Andreas Bender 2015 Paulessen Riesling (Mosel, Germany) $21 A crisp and modern dry Riesling that expresses the allure and wonder of the Mosel region. Expect compelling lemon and stone fruit notes with a minerally backbone.

From rich Uncle Bob Bric Cenciurio 2012 Barolo Monrobiolo di Bussia DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) $65 This Barolo is from a very small plot (11 rows) within the Bussia cru, planted in 1960s. This has the magic of the Nebbiolo grape in spades, the enticing

8 November December 2016 | The Tomato

From my cash-strapped friend Codorniu Cuvée Barcelona 1872 (Spain) $20 Rich aromatic nuances, creaminess and intense expression. Cuvée Barcelona 1872 pays tribute to Codornui’s origins when Josep Raventos crafted the first bottle of cava. Now, a cava to be enjoyed any time of day with breakfast, brunch, aperitifs or dinner.

From rich Uncle Bob Hine Antique XO Premier Cru – Grande Champagne Cognac (Cognac, France) $165 Warm up around the fire with this amazing cognac, a blend of over 40 cognacs with a minimum age of 10 years, exclusively from grapes grown in Grande Champagne, the finest cru of the Cognac region. Enjoy the provocative perfume of spices, vanilla and liquorice with hints of chocolate and baked apple.

Dianna Funnel, Sherbrooke Liquor From my cash-strapped friend Chateau Chappelle Maillard 2014 (AOC Bordeaux, France) $20 The estate is on the very tip of St. Emilion and entirely organic since the early 1980s, the vineyards surround an

ancient umbrella pine tree, shown on the label. Stephen Spurrier calls this vintage one to watch; this wine is both graceful and easy to drink.

From rich Uncle Bob Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape 2012 (Rhone Valley, France) $127 Long time advocates of biodynamic farming, Clos des Papes vineyards enjoy a wide range of different types of soils contributing to the depth and elegance of the wine. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to compare the 2011, 2012 and 2013 vintages? Sherbrooke Liquor has all three.

Barb and Susan Giacomin, Winequest From my cash-strapped friend DeAngelis Rosso Piceno DOC 2014 (LeMarche, Italy) $20 This year’s version is delicious!

What was a troubling vintage for most of Italy seem to have blessed DeAngelis. So heavenly on the palate in both taste and texture, it softly caresses the tongue with divine flavours of ripe dark cherries blanketed in velvet.

The palate and price makes it a perfect every day, on-hand, go-to wine buy.

From rich Uncle Bob Col d’Orcia Brunello Riserva DOCG Poggio al Vento 2007 (Tuscany, Italy) $140 So elegant and layered, silky and sensually feminine— when we drink this, we feel like Italian royalty. We are experiencing something so noticeably above and beyond we feel as noble

and special as this wine. Of course, when reviews use the words like “best”, “essential”, “top” and with scores over 95, you don’t have to rely just on our words. Only 54 bottles available in Western Canada.

Doug Hicks and Marcia J. Hamm, Hicks Fine Wines From my cash-strapped friend Il Palagio When We Dance Chianti DOCG 2013 (Tuscany, Italy) $24 A traditional Chianti (Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino) that is juicy and incredibly quaffable. It also doesn’t hurt that the owners of Palagio are Sting and Trudie Styler, adding some celebrity glam. This friend may be cash-strapped but this friend also has great taste.

From rich Uncle Bob Taylor Fladgate Single Harvest Port 1966 (Douro Valley, Portugal) $265 Who doesn’t want to receive a Christmas gift that is 50 years old? Smooth and rich with all the characteristics that make a Colheita great, and its value ensures no re-gifting would occur!

Eberhard Tamm, Enotri From my cash-strapped friend Mas Donis Red Celler de Capçanes 2015 (Catalonia, Spain) $23 This well-crafted blend of 75 per cent Grenache with 20 per cent Syrah and five per cent Merlot is a year-round fun wine which also holds its own against anything you want to pair it with during the holiday season.

From rich Uncle Bob Château Vieux Barrail Puisseguin de St. Emilion 2012 (Bordeaux, France) $35 It was probably a tough year for Uncle Bob, so why not let him surprise us with a great buy out of Bordeaux. Very approachable, with firm ripe tannins, it’s a great match for any festive meal.

Juanita Roos, Color de Vino From my cash-strapped friend Viranel Rendez-Vous, IGP Pays D’Doc 2013 (Languedoc, France) $22 Bright and juicy Cabernet Franc marries the dark berries and depth of Cabernet Sauvignon to produce an easy-drinking wine with loads of lively fruit, fresh violets and plums. Drink as an aperitif or pair with meats and cheeses.

From rich Uncle Bob Chateau Montifaud 150th Anniversary Cognac (Cognac, France) $598 The blend consists of cognac from 1850 and eauxde-vie from 1968, 1990 and 2005, each representing a generation of the Vallet family proprietors.

A cognac for collectors and connoisseurs presented in a replica of the 1866 bottle with a hand-crafted wax seal and a numbered certificate. Who wouldn’t want it?

Expanded Store & DELI Bar YOUR

Icelandic Fish Connection

Quality

WILD

Seafood OCEAN ODYSSEY INLAND 10019 167 Street www.oceanodysseyinland.ca 780-930-1901

Daniel Costa, Corso 32 From my cash-strapped friend Masciarelli Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC 2015 (Abruzzo, Italy) $20.00 I really like the minerality and the intense green apple aromas of this wine.

This is going to work so well with your seafood feast on Christmas Eve. From rich Uncle Bob Azienda Agricola Crivelli Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOC 2015, (Piedmont, Italy) $40 I love that the origin of this wine is still a mystery and that it has such a low production. Beautiful aromas of pepper, wild berries and floral notes. Perfect Christmas wine.

Please see ”Liquid Gifts” on page 10

The Tomato | November December 2016 9

Liquid Gifts Continued from page 9

Bill Tanasichuk, Bin 104 From my cash-strapped friend Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Australia) $22 A go-to Cabernet Sauvignon at BIN 104 for quality to price ratio, great flavour, and it’s vegan friendly. Langhorne Creek is one of Australia’s most ideal climates for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and has the oldest recorded Cabernet vines in the world.

From rich Uncle Bob Amon-Ra by Ben Glaetzer 2012 (Barossa, Australia) $82 The temple of Amon-Ra was believed to be the first temple to plant a vineyard to produce wine for the citizens of the temple. This is a beauty that can be enjoyed young or cellared for several decades.

Jenn Fulford, Crimson Imports From my cash-strapped friend Donato D’Angelo Sacravite Aglianico IGT 2013 (Basilicata, Italy), $21 This Aglianico has a rustic and complex palate of leather, tobacco and fresh fruit with dusty tannins that gently grip the mouth. My fave and a great pairing with anything tomato!

From rich Uncle Bob Caduceus (kadoochius) Cellars Sancha 2013 (Arizona, USA) $90 This 100 per cent Tempranillo is from Maynard Keenan's Buhl Memorial Vineyard in Cochise County—a full-bodied red, 100 per cent Spanish in style, soulful and authentic with a rustic, savoury warmth.

Ryan Everitt, Trialto Wine Group From my cash-strapped friend Cuvée Francois Chartier Côtes du Rhône, or Fronsac AOC Merlot, or Le Blanc Pays d’Oc IGP(France) $22 Quebecer Francois Chartier is a passionate and very interesting guy. He is interested in all aspects of what makes a wine great, from the flavour all the way down the molecules. These three wines, reds from the Rhone Valley and Bordeaux, and a white from the south of France, illustrate his principles of flavour and harmony outlined in his book Taste Buds and Molecules.

From rich Uncle Bob Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard six-bottle mixed case (two Volcanic Hill, two Red Rock Terrace, two Gravelly Meadow (Napa Valley, California, USA) $2,100 mixed case Visionary wine pioneer Al Brounstein planted Bordeaux varietals on secluded Diamond Mountain in 1968 making Diamond Creek California’s first exclusively Cabernet Sauvignon estate.

Three vineyards produce small lots of elegant, long-lived wines with great depth and richness, honoured and cherished by connoisseurs the world over.

From rich Uncle Bob Bollinger R.D 2002 (Champagne, France) $325 Ripe fruit, spice and roasted aromas dominate this dry, full-bodied Champagne. Only Premier and Grand Cru fruit make up this spectacular Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend, which is aged over three times longer than required by the AOC Champagne.

Tara Smith, Lanigan & Edwards Wine Merchants Ltd. From my cashstrapped friend Luis Pato Maria Gomes 2015 (Barraida, Portugal) $20 It smells like an amazing bowl of fresh, perfectly ripe fruit garnished with flowers, but in true Luis Pato style, this white is bone dry. Luis refers to this as his social wine—add friends and some light food and you’re all set.

From rich Uncle Bob Quintas das Carvalhas Tinta Francisca 2014 (Douro, Portugal) $80 Portugal is on my mind! Tinta Francisca is the Douro’s version of Pinot Noir resulting in a fragrant, richly-coloured wine, lighter-bodied with beautiful complexity. An ultra-low production wine made from older vines grown on the top of a mountain. Drink now, or put it away for a few years to experience how the wine will develop.

Stacey-Jo Strombecky, Nobilis Wine Importers

Lisa Caputo, Cibo Bistro

From my cash-strapped friend Barao de Vilar Tawny Port (Duoro Valley, Portugal) $25.

Nothing says Christmas like porto! This shows great complexity—pair with dried fruits, strong cheeses, nuts or a pecan tart. Barao de Vilar is owned by the van Zellar family, who have devoted 14 consecutive generations to the making of fine Port.

From my cash-strapped friend Villa di Corlo Primevo Lambrusco di Sorbara 2015 (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) $20 This delightful taste of fresh berries and floral balanced by creamy bubbles and acidity is a perfect aperitivo with rich cheeses and salty cured meats, or popcorn and potato chips while watching a movie. I haven’t met a

10 November December 2016 | The Tomato

person yet that didn’t love this wine; I'd be squealing with delight if I found this under the tree at Christmas.

From rich Uncle Bob Le Pergole Torte IGT 2011 (Tuscany, Italy) $175 With beautiful bright cherry fruit, light dusty tannins and mouth-watering acidity, this delicious Sangiovese is a wine worth keeping in the cellar if you are lucky enough to collect the various vintages. This single vineyard wine comes from the original two hectares planted by the Manetti family in the 1960s and availability is limited in Canada.

Rob Filipchuk, Glass Monkey Bistro From my cashstrapped friend Highfield Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (Marlborough, New Zealand) $24 I love this white for the balance of fresh acidity and citrus alongside the tropical fruit character. It’s great value and a real crowd pleaser!

From rich Uncle Bob Champagne Salon Le Mesnil 2004 (Champagne, France) $650 A truly magnificent Champagne. This is an extremely rare and wonderful wine produced from Chardonnay grown in the legendary Le Mesnil-sur-Oger vineyards. And remember, this is the season to drink more Champagne.

Actually, I say that about every season.

Jeff Sparling, Liquor Select From my cash-strapped friend L’Efecte Volador Monsant 2014 (Catalonia, Spain) $25 Neighbour to pricy Priorat in Spain, Monsant is the source of some outstanding values, like this standout

from Josef Grau. The same minerally, aromatic complexity, deep flavours and wonderful mouth feel that you find in a good Priorat, at a fraction of the cost.

From rich Uncle Bob Chateau Montifaud 50-YearOld Cognac (France) $255 From 100 per cent Grand Cru vineyards, this tiny family-run producer offers a uniquely luxurious richness and depth of flavour that is hard to match, even in much more expensive cognacs.

What it lacks in showy presentation, it more than makes up for with what’s in the bottle.

Larry Stewart, Hardware Grill From my cash-strapped friend Alvear Alange Tempranillo 2015 (Ribera del Guadiana, Spain) $15 Good acidity, spicy flavours with a peppery tannic finish.

From rich Uncle Bob Klinker Brick Old Ghost Zinfandel 2013 (Lodi, California, USA) $60 The Old Ghost is our goto favourite. It’s rich and supple with just the right amount of spice and jamminess. We usually have it with steak, but it would be great with cheese, chips, or by itself.

Alison Phillips, Aligra Wine & Spirits From my cash-strapped friend Falernia Reserva Ripasso Carmenere 2012 (Elqui Valley, Chile) $22 A surprise! Sweeter and more evolved than most Carmenere largely due to the grapes being partially dried on the vine before aging in American oak.

From rich Uncle Bob Robert Mondavi 50th Anniversary Maestro 2013 (Napa Valley, California) $74 This Bordeaux blend (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvingon, Petit Verdot, Malbec) was created to honour the life of Robert Mondavi, the maestro and inspiration of the winery.

Sandi Hollas, Appellation Wine From my cash-strapped friend Lake Sonoma Dry Creek Zinfandel 2012 (California, USA) $24 The Sonoma County winegrowing region boasts some of the most diverse assemblages of terroirs and microclimates in the world.

you know you want more...

From rich Uncle Bob Rocca delle Maciè Roccato Toscana IGT 2010 (Italy) $47 Made from equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese with ripe red fruit, refreshing acidity and slightly chewy tannins. Have with hearty dishes such as braised lamb.

Michael Fregren, Artisan Wines From my cash-strapped friend Monte Real-Rioja Crianza 2013 (Rioja, Spain) $23 Authentic old school Rioja—100 per cent Tempranillo grapes that sees 18 months aging in traditional American oak barrels. It has a beautifully perfumed nose, medium body and a spicy finish that will make you think of feasting on lamb. A mind-boggling bargain at that price.

From rich Uncle Bob Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2012 (Barossa Valley, Australia) $110 This amazing Shiraz is made from vines that were planted in 1847, the second oldest vines in Australia and pretty much the world. We only see about fiveseven cases a year from the winery and, on top of that, they don’t make it every year, only in exceptional vintages.

The Tomato | November December 2016 11

Feeding People Cookie joy from the German Christmas Markets Gluhwien, stollen and bratwurst; gigantic gingerbread hearts wrapped with crimson bows; nutcrackers of every size and description; stands chock-ablock with kitschy ornaments; mistletoe and pine boughs and lovely handmade wood ornaments and toys—German Christmas markets delight every sense.

And the cookies. German bakers make magic with butter, eggs and the flavours of the season—nuts, warm spices, dried fruits.

The treasure of last year’s Christmas Market foray was lebkuchen, a glazed spice cookie from the impressive Dallmayr Gourmet shop in central Munich. They were large cookies sold in a six-pack, three sugar glazed and three chocolate glazed. The cookie was a revelation, deep, complex flavours, not too sweet, with an intriguing chewy (not cakey) texture—an ideal Christmas cookie.

I didn’t buy enough.

you say,

tomato we say,

gin!

780-455-4556

12 November December 2016 | The Tomato

11819 St. Albert Trail | sherbrookeliq uor.com

I became a little bit obsessed with lebkuchen—flourless, made with honey, lots of nuts, citrus peel, exotic spices and marzipan with a long history dating back to medieval monasteries in northern Bavaria. I bet every Bavarian grandmother has her secret recipe for family lebkuchen. Not having a grandmother, let alone a German oma, I was on my own with my obsession.

In August I wrote to Dallmayr asking if they would supply the recipe for Tomato readers. No response. I tried a few more times, still no response. I checked the Dallmayr web site; perhaps they could ship some. Nope, no lebkuchen, just lots of chocolate and coffee. In the meantime I looked for lebkuchen closer to home. I called Artistic Bakery, home of the Bavarian salted pretzel. “Yes, we carry lebkuchen at the holidays. No, we don’t make it ourselves.”

Time to get out the mixing bowl and recreate this delightful cookie. First you need to find oblaten. This is the thin papery wafer that the cookie sits on. Monks and nuns in Franconia are credited with making the first lebkuchen using leftover Eucharist wafers (presumably unconsecrated) as the base.

Monks and nuns have been responsible for many delicious things, like beer, cheese and biscotti, but I digress. I called K&K, my source for everything German and tasty. “Yes we have oblaten, in three sizes.”

Chocolate Glazed Lebkuchen What follows is a close approximation of the Dallmayr original. Not quite the cookie of memory, but it’ll do, for now.

Spice Mix In a mortar and pestle, or spice grinder finely grind* equal amounts of star anise, allspice, coriander and green cardamom seed to equal about 2 teaspoons. Grate about ½ teaspoon each of nutmeg and mace and add to the mix. Add ½ teaspoon ground ginger. Grind cinnamon sticks to equal 2½ tablespoons; cloves to equal about 2 teaspoons and whisk into the ground spice mix. It should be a fine powder. Reserve. * If you don’t want to grind your own, find measurements for pre-ground spices at the end of the recipe.

Cookie ⅓ c

candied orange peel

1¼ c

diced lemon peel (citron)

2 c

almonds, skin on

2 c

hazelnuts, skinned

5

eggs

1¼ c

packed brown sugar

¼ c

honey

1 t

pure vanilla extract

3 t

spice mix or to taste

pinch salt

Mary Bailey

A VA L E N T I N E S E V E N T F O R T H E K I D S K OT TAG E F O U N DAT I O N

MUSIC B

JUN

O

NO

zest of 1 lemon

½ t

baking powder

24

3-inch oblaten

72 almond halves (optional garnish)

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place oblaten on the sheet.

Pulse orange and lemon peel in a food processor until finely chopped. If the peel is very moist, you may need to add a tablespoon of flour to keep it from sticking together. Reserve.

Pulse nuts in a food processor until very finely chopped. Reserve. Beat the eggs with sugar, honey and vanilla until foamy.

Whisk in the spice mix, salt and lemon zest.

Combine baking powder, nuts and peel with the egg mixture. The mixture will be a bit gloppy. Spread each oblaten with not more than a ½-inch thick layer of dough, leaving ¼-inch all round. Bake for 20 minutes. The rounds should still be moist and soft. Glaze while warm.

Place three almond halves on each cookie in a star pattern if desired.

Glaze 100 g semi-sweet chocolate (approx ½ cup) ½ T

unsalted butter

Melt chocolate and butter in a metal bowl set over a pot of simmering water.

Stir constantly until smooth. Take off heat, cool slightly then glaze each cookie.

Place lebkuchen on a cookie rack with a large tray underneath to catch drips. Let dry completely before storing. Store in a cookie tin at room temperature for up to six weeks.

Makes 24 cookies. * Don’t want to grind your own? Whisk together ¼ t ground nutmeg, ¼ t ground mace, ½ t ground ginger, ½ t ground star anise, ½ t ground allspice, ½ t ground coriander, ½ t ground green cardamom, 2 t ground cloves, 2½ T ground cinnamon. Reserve.

Zimtsterne (Cinnamon Stars) A light and lovely nutty meringue cookie.

Adapted from germanfoods.org. Note: zimtsterne taste best the day after baking.

1½ c blanched almonds, finely ground 1 t

ground cinnamon

¾ t

grated lemon zest

¼ c

egg whites (about 2 large)

pinch salt

1½ c

icing sugar

TICKETS

$100

D

Y

SA DOMNDRO INEL LI M I N AT

E

Enjoy hundreds of wines, silent auction, live jazz, elegant food pairings and some new surprises!

Friday, February 10, 2017 from 7pm – 10pm

by Hilton (16615 109 Ave NW)

at the DoubleTree

For tickets www.kidskottage.org or call 780-448-1752

10025-106 Street • 780-423-2117

about ½ cup additional icing sugar for rolling

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Prepare baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine nuts, cinnamon, and zest. Beat the egg whites on low until foamy, about 30 seconds. Add salt, increase the speed to medium-high, and beat until soft peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Add sugar gradually and beat until stiff and glossy, 5 to 8 minutes. Reserve one-third of the meringue (about ⅓ cup) and fold the nut mixture into the remaining meringue.

Prepare a clean work surface with a large piece of waxed paper and sprinkle with some of the reserved sugar. Place dough on the paper, sprinkle with a bit more sugar, them top with a second piece of waxed paper. Roll out dough to approx ¼-inch thick. Remove the top piece of waxed paper and cut out cookies using a star-shaped cookie cutter. Dip the cutter into water when it becomes sticky. Reroll and cut any scraps. Place on the prepared baking sheet.

Bake until set, 10 to 12 minutes. Spread the reserved meringue on top of the cookies and bake until the tops are very lightly coloured, about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a rack and let cool. Store in a cookie tin for up to 3 weeks.

DO NOT FEAR

THE MALL! Where else will you find our extensive selection of wine, spirits and beer? PLUS tastings, classes, Wine Club, gift baskets, gift cards and MORE! West Edmonton Mall Inside Entrance 58 Beneath Simons Reserved Parking

780.483.1083 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com

facebook.com/aligrawine

@Aligrawine

Cibo / chee-bo / noun. Ital. 1 food.

2 a place to eat great Italian food.

Makes about 3 dozen cookies.

Mary Bailey enjoys lebkuchen with a glass of Tawny Port. Find more Christmas Market cookie recipes at thetomato.ca.

780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com • 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square) Lunch 11.30 am – 2 pm Tue-Fri • Dinner 5 pm – 10 pm Tue-Sat

The Tomato | November December 2016 13

Ham and Cheese

What we may think of as mundane sandwich ingredients take on an entirely new meaning in Italy’s Po Valley.

- Mary Bailey are opened in the morning to allow breezes from the sea to help age the hams.

Their location, with its proximity to the sea, forest and mountains was why the first generation set up shop here.

The Po Valley is not the Italy of cypress and olive trees. Rather, the landscape is pastoral, green fields and densely forested foothills rolling to the snow-capped peaks of the Alps. This landscape is home to two of the finest artisan foods in existence, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma (ham of Parma).

The making of each possess distinct preparation and aging requirements, which are monitored and regulated by both local and European authorities every step of the way.

It is quiet in the aging room, quite peaceful, like a library. It also smells amazing, sweet, salty, a bit nutty, fresh with a top note of herbs and forest.

Before the hams can wear the ducal crown, the stamp of authenticity in Parma, an inspector checks the ham for any hint of spoilage with the ago di osso di cavallo (horse bone needle). We watch as the aging room employees demonstrate.

It’s a rapid dance, needle to nose then back again into the ham. She offers the needle. We smell… nothing. That is the key to horse bone, it captures and releases aroma in an instant. It’s also key to the training and expertise of everyone involved in the process.

Yet, what’s remarkable about Parma ham is how simple the process actually is— pork, sea salt, air and time, how people have cured ham for millennia.

Pio Tosini is one of the few producers that continues the age-old practise of open-air aging. Every day the windows

The finished crudo is delicious, velvety textured, a little salty, with an appealing sweet nuttiness. Proprietor Giovanni Bianchi serves it with a dry rosé Lambrusco—a sublime tasting experience.

Mary Bailey photos

At Pio Tosini, a fourth generation producer in Langhirano, Parma ham begins as large meaty legs with a significant fat cap to ensure even drying.

A coating of sea salt is applied to pull moisture from the interior of the meat.

After two months, the meat is washed to remove the salt then hung to dry again.

When completely dry, the legs are hung in the aging room for up to 24 months, even longer in some houses. That’s pretty much it. The exposed part of the ham (without skin) is covered with a seasoning mixture (fat and spices) but other than that it’s a waiting game.

Top left: the Parma crown, guarantee of authenticity. Top right: the ago di osso di cavallo is the tool used to detect spoilage. Above: applying the seasoning in Pio Tosini’s aging room.

Below left: heating the milk to develop the curd is the first step at a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy. Centre: in a cheese form, at this stage, two days old, the cheese is 55ºC inside.

Right: cheese destined to be sold as a 30- or 36-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano, the date guaranteed by these markings.

14 November December 2016 | The Tomato

Up until a few years ago, these highquality, air-dried hams were not allowed in Canada. Whether this was due to food safety or to industry protectionism is a matter of debate, but now we are free to indulge.

Prosciutto di Parma and other air-dried hams (such as prosciutto di Modena or prosciutto di San Daniele) are known as crudo. Proscuitto cotto means cooked ham.

The Italian Centre always has 14-monthold prosciutto di Parma in the deli case.

Ask for the 18- or 24-month old, also for culatello (made from the loin only) and noce (butt) which are sometimes available.

Parma ham is a delicacy and expensive, so make sure you see the Parma crown before it’s sliced. Serve by itself or with other cured meats as a first course, ideally with its compatriot Lambrusco. The slight fizz and full-on grapey flavours (both dry and sweet, red or rosé) are an ideal foil for the sweet savouriness of Parma ham.

Melon in season with slices of Parma ham is delightful.

Daniel Costa asked the Italian Centre to bring in 18- and 24-month-old Ruliano Proscuitto, another Langhirano producer, for his restaurants Corso 32, Bar Bricco and Uccellino. “Ruliano is particular about the pigs, and I find the crudo tends to be sweeter and nuttier. We buy whole legs and also the culatello and noce.

Rosario Caputo of Cibo Bistro is experimenting with making his own air-dried ham. “We made our first over a year ago with a Berkshire leg from Irving’s. My dad has a space in Jasper where he makes wine; it’s the perfect temperature with proper humidity. We cured the leg with salt, pepper, garlic, curing salt (nitrate) fresh herbs and garlic, then rubbed it every five days with red wine. We hung it for 400 days. We are going to try Mangalista next time, it has a bigger fat cap.”

Parmigiano Reggiano is a cow’s milk made in a specific area around Parma.

Many of the dairies are co-ops bringing in milk from several small farms. I’ve been in Parmigiano dairies that make eight wheels a day and others that make 24, considered an average size dairy. It takes approximately 500 litres of milk to make two wheels of Parmigiana and their byproducts, whey and butter.

This May I visited another dairy (courtesy of the Italian Trade Commission) to learn more about the process. The cheese is made daily, first heated, but not pasteurized, to develop curds then put into forms. At two days old the cheese is 55ºC inside. Each round is identified

by dairy, batch, and date of production.

The aging room has controlled humidity and temperature. It’s not constant.

The makers want the cheese to feel the seasons, according to our guide Simone Ficarelli.

Each round is assessed when it is 12 months old. If not deemed suitable to become Parmigiano Reggiano, rounds are taken out of the aging room and sold off as grated or chunked grana. The ones that do show the characteristics of Parmigiano Parmigiano are sold or aged to 24, 30 or 36 months old.

At 12 months old the cheese has a milky flavour (there is actually no lactic acid present; this disappears within 72 hours during the cheese making process). It is not granular and quite chewy. Simone suggests Lambrusco or Prosecco as the ideal pairing for 12-month-old cheeses.

At 24 months the cheese is nuttier, a bit sharper, more savoury. It is more granular in texture yet melts on the tongue. At 36 months it’s darker-coloured, mellow in flavour, noticeably salty and much more granular with crunchy crystals.

Simone prefers beer with 36-month-old Parmigiano.

In the Parma area you will find smallproduction cheeses on menus identified by producer, age, the dairy and type of cow, even in the smallest and most casual of restaurants. Unfortunately, due to the cheese quota system, few of these cheeses come to Canada. The Italian Centre’s standard is 24 months, they are able to bring in 36-month occasionally when they can get it. Right now there is a shortage of Parmigiano according to Ralph Stabile, director of purchasing at the Italian Centre. For example they are unable to find Vaca Rosso Parmigiano preferred by several chefs.

Older is not necessarily better; it really is a matter of personal taste and how you plan to use it. In risotto or grated over pasta? On a cheese board? Parmigiano is very high in glutamate (umami) and a little goes a long way. Serve chunks of older Parmigiano with dried fruit and walnuts and Amarone, a glass of Fino Sherry or a sweet dessert wine such as Vin Santo. I also love it with Champagne or Franciacorta. Let the cheese warm to room temperature before serving.

Cheese head Mary Bailey likes to put a little Parmigiano in mac ’n cheese.

S

I

M

G

R

F

O

P E

L

Y

A

T

O

D

SPE AKS FOR ITSE LF. TE RWI LLEGAR

ST ALBERT

594 0 M u l l e n Wa y

150 Bellerose Dr

D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M

PantreeAd_TomatoMag_Staub_Layout 1 Sep-16-2016 2:14 pm Page 1

40

SAVE UP TO

% OFF

ALL ZWILLING® STAUB AND MIYABI KITCHENWARE

EXPERIENCE THE FULL STAUB COLLECTION AT The Pan Tree | #550, 220 Lakeland Dr, Sherwood Park, AB T8H 0N6 On the corner of Broadmoor Blvd and Lakeland Dr 780-464-4631 | www.thepantree.ca Open 7 days (closed statutory holidays) Mon - Wed 10am-6pm Thurs 10am-7pm | Fri 10am-6pm | Sat 10am-5pm | Sun 11am-3pm

FREE ZWILLING® KNIFE SHARPENING CLINIC NOVEMBER 24TH | 5-7PM VISIT OR PHONE STORE FOR DETAILS

The Tomato | November December 2016 15

Wine Maven Parallèle 45 are icon wines of the Rhone valley. The label, created by Paul Jaboulet Aîné in 1950, alludes to the 45° north latitude which runs two kilometers from the cellars. Some icons coast on their rep—this is definitely not the case here. The Frey family (owners of Jaboulet since 2006) continues to devote hand-picked fruit and subtle winemaking to the production of the entry level Parallèle 45 wines, creating an excellent introduction to the flavours of the region. The upshot? Wines you can afford to serve at your holiday table, even to the person who brings one bottle and drinks three.

The Parallèle 45 Rosé (Grenache, Cinsault, 10 per cent Syrah) has peppery aromas, red fruit flavours, well-balanced acidity and enough body to work with the heavier flavours of the season.

The Parallèle 45 White is a southern Rhone blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier and Bourboulenc creating aromas of white flowers and summer fields, fresh citrusy flavours and enough weight to stand up to turkey with all the trimmings.

There is nothing not to like about the Parallèle 45 Red, a Grenache/Syrah blend tasting of herbs, anise and red fruits with lovely round tannins providing just the right amount of structure.

Find at better wine shops, $20.

2014 Brolio Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy). Who says you have to stop drinking pink just because summer is over? Olalla CoronaLopez of Tuscan producer Ricasoli was in town to debut the new rosé called Albia.

Made of Merlot and Sangiovese. The four hours of juice-to-skin contact creates a pale rosé colour and structure via fine tannins.

Follow with the concentrated and flavourful 2014 Brolio Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG. Edmonton native Christina Masciangelo has formed a wine agency called Salivate focused on cool climate wines with mouthwatering freshness and moderate levels of alcohol. We say yeah to that. Look for high-quality Austrian producers Gruber, Johanneshof Reinisch, Sattlerhof, Hieldler, Josef Fritz and Markus Huber in better wine shops soon.

Christina has a tremendous palate and loads of experience, having worked in just about every aspect of the wine trade.

Congratulations and good luck Christina!

16 November December 2016 | The Tomato

Nicoletta Nafi (Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona) with Daniel Costa, (Uccellino) after the wine dinner.

Nicoletta Nafi of Brunello, producer Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona visited Edmonton recently for tastings at the Wine Cellar and Color de Vino and a sold-out dinner at Uccellino. Piccolomini is a traditional Brunello producer with well-situated vineyards. They eschew new wood, preferring neutral large barrels made from Croation oak. The elegant and delicious Rosso di Montalcino is a terrific first course wine. We could also be convinced to open a bottle with popcorn and a movie. They do make some wines other than Sangiovese; take the Ateo (the atheist) made from Merlot and Cabernet planted in 2002. Delish!

Judy Schild came to lunch at Solstice to talk about her family winery on the southern end of the Barossa Valley, its cool night breezes, their old vines and what being in a family business is all about. But mostly she talked about the wines. Alma Chardonnay 2014 ($40): “I’m a Barossa girl, I drink a lot of Barossa wine. This is a white wine I can drink in the winter.” The Ben Schild Shiraz 2011 ($46) is named after her grandfather. “It’s a single vineyard but technically it’s from a parcel within.” The 2013 is the first release of Pramie ($93). “Every year a couple of parcels come off that make outstanding wine. I call it modern Aussie shiraz.”

“I drink the Brut every day, it’s my job,” say Mikael Falkman. There isn’t much the affable brand ambassador doesn’t know about champagne, especially Champagne Taittinger. Take disgorgement dates. “Each bottle will taste slightly different due to the disgorgement dates,” he says, gesturing to his glass during a trade tasting in the Harvest Room. What really moves us is the Comtes de Champagne 2006 ($260), elegant and complex with subtle hazelnut, citrus, fresh celery and sweet brioche notes, made with fruit from five Grand Cru villages. More in the realm of the everyday is Taittinger Brut Reserve ($60), and available by the glass at the Hardware Grill. Something a little sweeter, what Mikael Falkman describes as late night Champagne, is the Nocturne ($72) in a super groovy package. Just released, the rare and collectible Artist’s Series Brut Millésimé 2008 ($375) is by Brazilian artist Sebastião Salgado. This is the 14th edition of the collection since 1983 and the first photographer to be featured. What a lovely gift they would make.

Mary Bailey

Bella Gamay Noir Rosé (Okanagan Valley) Wendy Rose and Jay Drysdale make a sparkler in the traditional method, bottle-fermented, hand-riddled, hand-disgorged. Bella has amazing clarity of expression—vibrant flavours of cool climate Gamay along with a refreshing hit of bubbly acidity.

Treat yourself. It comes in regular (750mL) $45 and pursesized (375 mL) $29.

Find these wines at Aligra, Bin 104, Color de Vino, Hicks Fine Wines and other fine wine shops.

Not all wines in each shop. Prices are approximate.

EVENT CALENDAR TUESDAY, NOV. 1

SUNDAY, NOV. 20

Bar Bricco Winemaker Series with Tenimenti D’Alessandro Bar Bricco, info@barbricco.com

The Cavern Cheese School The Cavern, 780-455-1336

SUNDAY, NOV. 6

WEDNESDAY, NOV. 23

The Cavern Cheese School The Cavern, 780-455-1336

Monkey Business, The Glass Monkey 780-760-2228

MONDAY, NOV. 7

THURSDAY, NOV. 24

Cibo Bistro’s Five Year Anniversary Dinner, Cibo Bistro, 780-757-2426

Sorrentino’s Truffle and Wine Dinner Bistecca Italian Steakhouse, 780-439-7335

WEDNESDAY, NOV. 9 Carpineto Dinner Pack Rat Louis, 780 433-0123

WEDNESDAY, NOV. 9 Bar Bricco Winemaker Series with Franz Haas, Bar Bricco info@barbricco.com

THURSDAY, NOV. 10 Carpineto Dinner, Sorrentino’s Downtown, 780-424-7500

TUESDAY, NOV. 15 The Wines of Northern Italy Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000

TUESDAY, NOV. 29 Christmas Spirits Tasting Aligra Wine & Spirits, 780-483-1083

THURSDAY, DEC. 1 HFW Annual Christmas Open House Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000

SATURDAY, DEC. 3 Color de Vino Christmas Open House Color de Vino, 780-439-9069

WEDNESDAY, DEC. 7

WEDNESDAY, NOV. 16

Dal Cero Tasting and Dinner Kitchen by Brad, 780-757-7704

Red Bordeaux Tasting The Glass Monkey, 780-760-2228

THURSDAY DEC. 15

SATURDAY, NOV. 19 All is Bright Festival Heart of the Home, 780-705-4920

SATURDAY, NOV. 19 Holiday appies and wine pairings with chef Doreen Prei Color de Vino, 780-439-9069

Make your AGA your holiday shopping destination.

With Shop AGA and Art Rental and Sales, your AGA has something for all the art lovers on your list.

GIFTS | MEMBERSHIPS | ART

Aligra’s Customer Appreciation Open House, Aligra Wine & Spirits 780-483-1083

SUNDAY, JANUARY 1 Madison’s Grill New Year’s Day Brunch, Madison’s Grill at the Union Bank Inn, 780-423-3600

youraga.ca/giveAGA The Tomato | November December 2016 17

- Stuart Adams -

When the average lifespan of most Edmonton restaurants is eight years, reaching that mark is a challenge, but surpassing it requires support from a capable second generation.

With a combined age of over 130 years, The Lingnan, Upper Crust Cafe and Tony’s Pizza Palace stand out in Edmonton’s culinary scene. For starters, not only have they operated for at least a quarter century, but they are being run by the new kids—all in their 30s and 40s.

Menus in all three establishments have changed over the years, but Miles Quon of The Lingnan, Megan Rich of Upper Crust, and Sal and Tony Mazzotta Jr. all had a strong work ethic instilled in them as youngsters in their parents’ restaurants. “I’ve been working here since I was six-years-old, shelling peapods and deveining shrimp— on-the-job family training,” says Quon.

The Lingan The Lingnan is the granddaddy of the trio and Miles is the third generation of Quons to run the restaurant.

18 November December 2016 | The Tomato

His grandfather opened The Lingnan in 1947, which his father took over in the late ’70s. Although Miles has worked at the restaurant most of his life, he committed to becoming the third operating generation when he finished university in 2005. He believes that The Lingnan is the oldest continually operating Chinese restaurant in Edmonton.

He also believes strong relationships with their customers have carried them through to what will soon be their 70th anniversary. Miles has had customers tell him they remember him as a child. “It’s generation serving generation, and sometimes the fifth generation,” he says.

That relationship paid dividends a few years ago when an appreciative customer brought in an original menu they had saved from the late ’40s. Miles had it framed and put on display, which shows their telephone number: 27203.

In addition to the five-digit telephone number, the fare has evolved over the decades. “It morphed, slowly,” he says, pointing out typical chop sueys, alongside standard North American steaks and soups. “It was all North American

Canadian-style Chinese food. Then, Hong Kong people began arriving and we had Chinese chefs who wanted to try other things.”

As clients travelled more, they requested new dishes, and by the ’80s, his father had weeded out the North American food. Today, only two such dishes remain: chicken fingers and French fries.

Miles has introduced a more modern sensibility to the menu, however people do ask for old favourites off old menus. Their staff, many who have been with them since the ’70s, remember those dishes and are happy to make them.

He describes the approach as using traditional techniques, but with local ingredients where practical, and with local customers in mind. “We’re traditional, but we can’t be authentic,” he says, adding that while lard is authentic in China, they don’t use it at the Lingnan. “We use our techniques from China, but adapt the dishes to Edmonton. Our spices are from everywhere—star anise from Viet Nam and chilis from India.”

Curtis Comeau Photography

The kids are alright

The end result is a clientele that he says reflects the Canadian mosaic—largely Caucasian, but also with East Indian, First Nations and Lebanese representation.

Second generation baking at Bonjour Occasionally, a mid-afternoon visit to Boulangerie Bonjour will find nearly bare shelves—a good sign that Yvan Chartrand has successfully passed his love of bread along to his son, Kenny.

Yvan began baking bread commercially in Japan when he opened a restaurant in 1992. The operation included house-baked bread, which eventually took over the restaurant and his career. “I ended up

They also have had special relationships with their customers—most notably the Oilers and the Eskimos. Tony Jr’s. first Tony’s memory is the Oilers’ 1987 Stanley Cup celebration when he was six.

“The place was jammed and I remember my dad flipping pizza.”

going all over the world,” Yvan says. “It’s been a self-directed study.”

Upper Crust Cafe His travels included France, Germany and the San Francisco Baking Institute. Five years ago, Kenny Megan Rich has memories followed the same path and has taken over the baking of the traditional European loaves specializing of she and her three sisters in 15 styles of pain au levain (naturally leavened, slow rise breads). Yvan now handles the business, working after school when So, how important is the while mother Ritsuko takes care of the front of house. her mother Sheila and legacy? Sal is as adamant original partner Karen Kenny and his father combine their expertise, with Kenny also taking the lead in trying new recipes about maintaining tradition Fulton started catering in and occasionally changing the roster. “My philosophy is that traditional is very important,” says Kenny, as he is about pleasing 1982. They cooked for “but traditional can also be very boring.” customers and he recognizes corporations and law firms how his father was an To avoid boring, Kenny sources local ingredients that he mills in house. Some 70 per cent of their in the Rich kitchen. “We’d innovator, adding Italian bread comes from house-milled flour and he visits the fields that produce the grain – another good have to come home every ingredients to New York-style sign that he has his father’s love of bread. day after school and clean pizza. the kitchen,” she says, adding that they all worked But there are limits. “Don’t But the night Margaret Atwood came for the brothers worked in their father’s high school summers in the restaurant. ask for pineapple on a pizza,” he says. dinner, the three English majors serving “We’ll put it on the side, but not on the restaurant at an early age. “From the age Upper Crust Cafe has expanded the that night were too paralyzed to attend to pizza. We don’t want to sell ourselves of 13, I was coming in to wash dishes and restaurant space twice, as well as the short to make a dollar.” the famous writer. Another server had to would see people coming and thanking kitchen. More than half their business step in and take care of the Atwood table. my dad,” says Tony Jr., “It was the is still catering, and about 70 per cent With some regret, he recalls refusing to satisfaction of feeding people and making of their staff is in the kitchen—many of put pineapple on a pizza for a long-time And like the other two restaurants, Upper them happy that stayed with me.” whom have been with them for more customer, especially since the person Crust has created a loyal clientele, that than five years.

Megan says has not only prompted new Please see “Kids” on page 27.

From her early years, Megan worked on and off at Upper Crust to finance a university stint, before travelling and some work in Spain. Then, in 2000, she entered into the partnership with her mother and Karen’s sister, Barbara Bester.

Sheila Rich stills works on the occasional special project and does the catering for pet clients, such as the Players de Novo from the legal community; but at this writing, she and her husband are camping their way across the U.S. Barbara and Megan oversee the daily operations. “Without really good staff, you can’t do this business,” Megan says, and adds that their three cooks are given the autonomy to bring their respective approaches to the downhome cooking that characterizes the restaurant. “The food hasn’t changed in quality, it’s still all cooked from scratch. We allow the cooks to make changes, they’re so good that we don’t have to micromanage.”

The proximity to the University of Alberta has generated a few unique, university-related experiences. “We’ve put so many people through university,” says Rich, adding that singer KD Lang and actor Paul Gross visit regularly without creating a disturbance among the staff.

dishes to be added to the menu, but old ones have also been returned—such as the vegetarian chili. “We had a lady who stood in our deli and cried,” says Megan. The vegetarian chili was returned to the menu.

Tony’s Pizza Palace Brothers Sal and Tony Jr. have carried on the tradition that Tony Sr. began in 1986 when he opened at the current location.

They view themselves as keepers of the family legacy. Tony’s Pizza Palace recently led the way as Edmonton was named eighth best pizza city in the world in a Condé Nast Traveler magazine readers’ poll in April.

The brothers Mazzotta have obviously kept the pizza tradition alive, but Sal says that where pizza used to be about 90 per cent of their business, it’s now about 65 per cent. “We’ve turned the pizzeria into a restaurant with pizza,” says Tony Jr. “We have Barolos and Amarones and high-end spirits on the list. We like to cater to everyone’s needs, not just serve pizza.”

They have also made other changes, such as taking the restaurant paperless; servers use iPads to take orders. But, like the other second generation operators,

!

P U N E T H LIG THE E ID UTS O UR O L CO

L

S. INE

GO

Z CRA

Y.

... nge a r r we a greenhouse parties bouquets-to-go cool plants tabletop treats flowers and greens cafe for chilling great gifts colourful ideas

IN LITTLE ITALY AT 10826 - 95 ST, EDMONTON, AB TEL: 780. 428.0754 OPEN: MON-WED 9-6, TH 9-8, FRI-SAT 9-6, SUN 11-5 INFO@ZOCALO.CA WWW.ZOCALO.CA

The Tomato | November December 2016 19

Beer Guy Here we come a-wassailing

SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton

exquisite holiday gifts

PLEASANTVIEW 11004 - 51st Avenue / GLENORA 10103 - 124 Street www.bernardcallebaut.com ALL ARTWORK © COCOCO CHOCOLATIERS, CALGARY, ALBERTA. NOT TO BE REPRODUCED OR ALTERED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION. C O C O C O C H O C O LAT IE RS Due Date: Oct 25 2016 Size: 4.625” wide x 3.75” h Designer: Lynne Rennie

2320 2nd Avenue SE Calgary, AB T2E 6J9 Telephone (403) 265-5777 Fax (403) 265-7738 Client: Cococo / Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut Edmonton Description: Print Ad Colour: CMYK Insertion date: ?

Publication: Tomato Rep: Mary Bailey Marketing Manager: Kristen Halpen APPROVED BY: KH

Make sure no one has an empty plate.

Donate today at ChristmasBureau.ca

20 November December 2016 | The Tomato

It’s the most wonderful time of the year... for beer. Spring saisons, summer session ales, lawnmower lagers and fall harvest ales are all well and good. But give me the hearty porters, stouts and ales of year’s end.

The holiday season is when brewers pull out the stops to create special brews, perhaps understanding that this is the season when we feel a little freer with our spending. Money managers advise against the “what the hell, it’s Christmas” approach to holiday spending, but come on, that $40 bottle of Orkney Dark Island Reserve Ale isn’t going to drink itself.

Really though, the richness of holiday beers is inside the bottles. We’re talking about big beers, styles like imperial stout and Baltic porter, winter warmer and barley wine, and most especially, Christmas ales—higher alcohol beers made for the holidays with dark malts and spices, herbs and fruit. These ales are part of the Christmas wassail tradition that goes back centuries to the medieval period. The wassail was a drink of hot, strong ale, mead, wine or cider, mulled with sugar, roasted apples, ginger and nutmeg. Wassailing was the custom of wishing one another good health with a toast. And with enough hot, strong ale, you will find yourself going door-to-door singing carols.

Fritz Maytag, former owner of Anchor Brewing, picked up on this wassail tradition and in 1975, Anchor released their first Christmas Ale, also known as Our Special Ale. Brewed every fall in the 41 years since, the beer is tweaked every year, with the recipe a closely-guarded secret. Indeed, part of the fun of this beer is trying to determine which spices were used in each year’s version. In recent years the beer has been a rich, dark ale with a complex, spicy flavour and earthy aroma. I’m pretty sure I tasted cinnamon and nutmeg in the 2015 edition. Despite the secrecy, Anchor’s Christmas Ale has become the template that brewers all over the world use for their own holiday brews.

Here in Alberta, another Christmas tradition was given a modern beery twist by the folks at Craft Beer Importers in Calgary. I remember the Advent calendars of my youth: counting down the days to Christmas, each day opening a little window and getting a waxy chocolate or small trinket. Craft Beer Importers came up with the ingenious and slightly devious idea of adapting the Advent calendar for adults—replacing the waxy chocolate with excellent beer.

The first craft beer Advent calendar was released in 2012. They sold out within days. Chris Connelly of Craft Beer Importers tells me they haven’t looked back, with sales growing every year and distribution expanding this year to farflung places like Nunavut, P.E.I., and even, fortress Ontario.

Chris notes that it is a simple idea but logistically complex. Selecting the 24 beers isn’t easy—this year the calendar includes beer from 15 different countries, in as many beer styles as possible. They must take shelf life into account, looking for bottle conditioned beers and beer styles that last through the holidays.

It’s almost a year-long process; as Chris says, “We were approaching breweries in March for beer to be brewed in July-August for arrival in Canada in September for distribution in October and sales in November-December.”

But it’s all worth it just to imagine the joy on an old beer geek’s face.

Some local beer enthusiasts take a DIY approach to the beer advent calendar.

Homebrewer Chad Heinz has organized a DIY beer calendar for a few years—sort of a beer potluck. Heinz invites 24 beer pals to bring 24 bottles of a single beer to a trading day in late November, with each participant ending up with 24 different beers for the Advent season. According to friends who have participated, the decent beers outnumber the duds, and there are usually no duplicates. Almost as good as all the beer is connecting with other good people—and isn’t that what Christmas is all about?

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good beer.

BellaCasaAd-TomatoMag_Layout 1 Oct-7-2016 8:56 am Page 1

Peter Bailey

Christmas Six-Pack Make the most of the holidays with seasonal beers that dispel the wintry gloom. Most of these beers are only available for a short time, so don’t wait until Christmas Eve to stock up!

Anchor Christmas Ale, San Francisco A holiday tradition since 1975, the recipe for Our Special Ale changes from year to year, but of late it has been a dark mahogany-coloured beer with a rich, complex nose and flavour. It pairs well with roast turkey and trimmings but I like to serve it as an aperitif before dinner, especially if I have been able to get my hands on the magnificent magnum bottle.

Deschutes Jubelale, Bend, Oregon A winter warmer good for all that ales you this season. Jubelale pours a deep garnet colour and tastes of caramel and dark-roasted malt, with notes of cocoa, dried fruit, toffee and spice. A touch of alcohol warmth and hop bitterness make this beer a good companion after skating, skiing, sledding or, yes, shopping.

HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING WITH ZWILLING AND BELLA CASA ®

Bella Casa Design Centre is your one-stop “All About Home” shopping experience SHOP THE FULL ZWILLING® COLLECTION AT Bella Casa Design Centre Ltd, Crestwood Mall 9646-142 St, Edmonton AB T5N 4B2 780.437.4190 | shop.bellacasadcl.com

Whistler Valley Trail Chestnut Ale, Whistler, BC Chestnuts remind me of childhood Christmas trips to Toronto. We would watch the Santa Claus Parade, visit the ROM and take in the Christmas windows at Eaton’s. And everywhere there was a wizened old man with a cart, roasting chestnuts. So thank you Whistler Brewing, for this delightful, sweet, vanilla-tinged, seasonal beer redolent of chestnuts and childhood!

Yukon Lead Dog Olde English Ale, Whitehorse A winter warmer from Whitehorse, where they know how to make an ale strong enough to keep the howling cold at bay. At 7 per cent alcohol by volume, the beer is big, yet drinks smoothly, thanks to the mellowing effect of two months of aging. Smells of malt and earth, tastes of roast malt with a touch of dried fruit.

hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

OPEN FOR LUNCH and

Nelson Blackheart Oatmeal Stout, Nelson, BC Back for the holidays is Nelson’s classic organic oatmeal stout, a delicious dry stout tempered by the smooth, silky finish provided by the addition of oats. A bit of a surprising hop bite for a stout, but the traditional coffee, chocolate and malt flavours are there as well.

Howe Sound Father John’s Winter Ale, Squamish, BC Named for John Mitchell, Howe Sound’s original brewer and a father of the Canadian craft beer revolution. A rich, malty winter warmer brewed with a heady blend of ginger, nutmeg, vanilla, molasses, honey and Demerara sugar. Really, it’s dessert in a glass—I’d advise drinking it by a fire, with a thick novel at hand.

Peter Bailey patiently awaits the return of Alley Kat’s Chocolate Orange Porter. He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian.

SPECIAL 3-COURSE PRE-EVENT DINING est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

We’re just a short 15-minute walk to Ice District. Parking across the street at Canada Place. Join us for a delicious meal before any event.

Three-course menu for $50 — great food at a great price.

BOOK YOUR XMAS EVENT NOW It’s closer than you think.

780.423.0969 • www.hardwaregrill.com

The Tomato | November December 2016 21

The Hardware Grill Family Tree The Hardware Grill celebrated its 20th birthday on October 20. That must be 150 in restaurant years.

The restaurant business is notorious for its lack of longevity; how does a restaurant not only survive but stay relevant? What effect does a restaurant with longevity have on our food culture? Lots apparently. Hardware Grill alumni own restaurants and businesses, are exec chefs in amazing places, carry on with creative pursuits and there are a good number of folks who have made hospitality

2

1 34 31

32

30

29 28 27

25

22

5

37

33

55

48

24

7

9

40

10 11

45 46

47

21

8

39

54

20

6

38

53

49

26

4

36

52

50

Tomato food & drink publisher Mary Bailey can still balance three plates on one hand and pour wine with both, but misses having a bus boy.

3

35

51

careers at Hardware Grill. To show this in a graphic way, I asked Melinda and Larry Stewart, owners of the restaurant, to help me put together a family tree. During the project, much wine was drunk and there were moments of hilarity that began with ‘do you remember?’ Being a proud alumnus myself, it was a delight to do.

41

12

42

13

44

19

18 43

17

23

14 15

16

1. Amanda Van Brabant

5. Brian Waritsky

2009-2011 Then: baker. Now: owner, Amanda V’s Bakery.

2. Andrew Fung

2002-2006 Then: busser. Now: assistant manager PCL Tools.

6. Cam Dobranski

1998-2002, 2004-2006 Then: cook. Now: chef/owner at XIX.

1997-2000, 2002-2003 Then: cook. Now: chef/owner, Kensington Brasserie, Calgary; owner, Medium Rare Chefware

3. Brad Smoliak 1996-2000 Then: co-owner, sous chef. Now: owner, Kitchen

by Brad Smoliak.

4. Brad Waritsky 1997-2002 Then: cook.

Now: registered nurse.

7. Chris Thompson 2008-2010 Then: cook. Now: owner, Hawkers Market, Vancouver.

8. Cindy Lazarenko

22 November December 2016 | The Tomato

1996-1997 Then: server.

Now: OnOurTable.

9. Clark Yuill 2001-2008 Then: cook, executive sous chef. Now: journeyman electrician.

10. Clint Zaiffdeen 1996-2001, 2004-2010 Then: server. Now: owner/operator, Famoso West Edmonton.

11. Cory Welsch 2002-2010 Then: cook. Now: chef, Craft Beer Market, Calgary.

12. Curtis Beer 2005-Present Then: waiter.

Now: waiter.

13. Dan Strelow 2011-Present Then: cook.

Now: HWG sous chef.

14. Danielle McLaughlin 2001-2015 Then: office manager.

Now: financial controller, Mayfair Golf & Country Club.

15. Dean Lonsdale 2003-Present Then: waiter.

Now: waiter.

16. Dylan Prins 2010-2013, 2015-Present Then: cook. Now: HWG sous chef.

17. Evan Robertson 2000-2007 Then: cook.

Now: chef at Pig ’n Duke, Calgary.

18. Garnet Madsen 2010-2013 Then: cook/apprentice.

Now: chef instructor.

19. Garrett Ross.

2004-2007 Then: busser.

Now: actor.

20. Gary Stinn 1996-Present Then: server.

Now: server.

21. Graham Versailles 1998-2000 Then: intern baker.

Now: wine agent.

22. Jennifer Cockrall-King 1996-2000 Then: hostess.

Now: writer, foodgirl.

23. Joanne Lofeudo 2006-2013 Then: hostess.

Now: artist, Kelowna.

24. Jordan Abbott 2012-2014 Then: cook.

Now: cook, XIX.

25. Jordan Wiggins 2009-2013 Then: cook.

Now: chef, Woodwork.

26. Kieran McKinney Then: server. Now: retired.

27. Kyle Wilson 1999-Present Then: busser.

Now: waiter.

28. Lacey Cormier 2010-Present Then: baker.

Now: veterinary assistant.

29. Laine Colman 1996-2008 Then: server.

Now: business operator.

30. Leona Mihaljisn 2012-Present Then: daily cash.

Now: office manager.

31. Margo Maria Klimowicz 2003-2006, 2012-2014, Present Then: busser. Now: photographer.

32. Mark Jackson 1996-1997 Then: Our first dishwasher. Now: Professor, Oxford University.

33. Mary Bailey 1996-1997 Then: server.

Now: writer, The Tomato Food & Drink.

34. Matt Hauca 1996-1999 Then: busser. Now: university instructor, Japan.

35. Matthew Steppan 1997-2004 Then: busser/server.

Now: director, stakeholder relations, ASET.

37. Mike Buckley 1998-2004 Then: sous chef. Now: business manager, transportation.

38. Mike Caldwell 1998-2001 Then: busser. Now: English teacher, Japan.

39. Nigel Weber 1996-2001 Then: exec. sous chef.

Now: culinary arts instructor, NAIT.

40. Patrick Leano 1999-2003 Then: cook. Now: chef, Osteria, London, England.

41. Pauline Ulliac

A Sensory Experience!

2000-2007 Then: hostess.

Now: artist.

42. Perry Wenham 2004-2005 Then: cook.

Now: bakery owner, Ontario.

THE SHOPS AT BOUDREAU | ST. ALBERT, ALBERTA #109 150 BELLEROSE DR. | HICKSFINEWINES.COM | 780-569-5000

43. Peter Keith 2012-2014 Then: cook. Now: chef.

44. Pietro Scontrino 1996-2003 Then: cook. Now: pork and poultry trader, Calgary.

45. Rino Lam 2008-2014 Then: cook.

Now: chef, XIX, St. Albert.

46. Ronald Bolanos 2010-2013 Then: cook.

Now: cook, XIX

47. Russell Frame 1999-2008 Then: server.

Now: R.I.P.

48. Ryan Vickers 2006-2012, 2014, Present Then: cook/baker. Now: baker, HWG.

49. Sean O’Connor 2006-2010 Then: cook.

Now: exec chef, Red Ox Inn.

50. Sarah MacKinley 2007-Present Then: server.

Now: hostess.

51. Sasha Sproule 2013–Present Then: server. Now: licensed practical nurse.

52. Shane Thomas 2001-Present Then: busser.

Now: waiter.

53. Steven Hugens 1996-2001, 2011-2016 Then: server. Now: F & B director, Mayfair Golf & Coutry Club.

54. Tracey (Lomnes) Waritsky 2002-2006 Then: sous chef.

Now: assistant manager, NAIT Catering.

55. Wendy Perusini 1996-2006 Then: busser.

Now: OnOurTable.

36. Michael Love 2012-2016 Then: apprentice cook.

Now: cook, Corso 32.

The Tomato | November December 2016 23

Drink Fortify me Fortified wines offer a snapshot of a region, a taste of history and an ability to communicate a true sense of place. Wines of immense character, these one-ofa-kind styles have evolved over generations of trial and error and dedication to quality.

Your LOCAL choice for Gluten Free since 1991

Gluten Free, Fresh 10940 - 120 Street Open Tuesday to Saturday www.GetItFresh.ca 780-732-7527 GLUTEN FREE HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD®

During the evolution of winemaking in regions as varied as the Douro Valley, Portugal, Jerez in Spain and the Madeira archipelago, it was discovered that adding neutral grape spirit to the base wine (fortify) created a wine that was able to age longer, was more durable, fuller-bodied and more enjoyable.

The Douro Valley vines cling to centuries-old handmade terraces to produce Port, a legendary classic of the wine world. Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cão and Tinta Amarela are the principal grapes of the 30 indigenous varieties of the region allowed for Port.

Port begins its life as a red wine. When the winemaker decides the wine is at the perfect level of sweetness it is time to fortify with aguardente, a high-alcohol neutral grape spirit. This process, like all fortification, halts fermentation by killing the yeasts. This preserves the sugar and hence sweetness.

©2016 Palm Bay International Boca Raton, Fl.

24 November December 2016 | The Tomato

It may be that no wine is more steeped in history than Port. The history of wine in Portugal dates to before the modern era and Port itself was first recorded in the 17th century. In the 18th century Portugal and specifically Port wine had the benefit of preferential tariffs and treaties with Britain, leading many English, Irish and Scots to set up business in the Douro region—a legacy we see today in the names of shippers and producers such as Graham’s, Warre’s and Smith Woodhouse.

After generations of this preferential treatment these benefits were restricted.

Port had to evolve. The visionary, if dictatorial, Marquis de Pombal implemented valuable improvements.

The most revolutionary of these was the

demarcation of the Douro appellation in 1756. This directed the focus of Port to the quality of vineyards, paving the way to Port as we know it today—high quality and highly prized.

Port can be divided into two categories: ruby and tawny. The best quality ruby Ports, such has LBV and vintage Port, possess rich colours and complex flavours. Vintage Port is the most serious offering, comprising only two to three per cent of production and declared only in the best years. Vintage Port can last decades. A venerable British tradition is to gift a case of vintage at birth. To start your own collection look for 2000, 2007, 2009 and particularly 2011, which will be one of the greats.

Tawny Port is aged in the barrel developing more toffee, roasted nuts and dried fruit flavours. Tawny Ports include an age date (10, 20, 30 or 40 years) on the label. This is not an average age of what is in the bottle but is based on taste and the experience of the producer/

Moscatel de Setúbal The port town of Setúbal on the sunny coast of Portugal, south of Lisbon, is home to a historic fortified wine. The wine is fortified during fermentation and the skins are added back to soak in the wine for up to six months or longer, adding aroma and complexity.

Enjoy pineapple upside down cake with a glass of Casa Ermelinda and forget the wintry weather.

Vins Doux Naturel (VDN) Vins doux naturel are made by a process called mutage, developed in the south of France during the 13th century. Grape spirit is added near the end of fermentation then aged, resulting in a wine of 15-18 per cent alcohol that is sweet, yet balanced. Styles vary. Rivesaltes, made from Grenache, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris is rich with notes of toffee, butterscotch,

Tomato Ad-October copy.pdf

1

2016-10-18

3:29 PM

Margaux Burgess C

M

Y

shipper—if it tastes as a 10-year Tawny should, it will be labeled as a 10-year Tawny.

If there is any one producer whose history is intrinsically linked to the story of port it is Taylor Fladgate. While not the first producer in the region, Taylor Fladgate has, through three centuries of independent family ownership, persevered with a focus on quality and innovation. Taylor Fladgate established late bottled vintage (LBV) Port, creating a wine that was approachable and drinkable much earlier. After four to six years in wood LBV is bottled. The process allows it to take on some of the mellow characteristics of Tawny, yet keep the fruit and structure of a Ruby.

Like vintage Port it is always made from a single vintage, but filtered before bottling, ready to enjoy upon purchase.

My own introduction to Port was indeed a glass of Taylor LBV at the end of the meal with my grandmother and her Christmas cake.

raisin and baking spice due to its oxidative aging, often in wood, ideal with crème brulee. Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is completely different, with bright and fresh grapey notes—an elegant aperitif or elevate a dish of fresh fruit simply by pouring some over the top. Chapoutier offers a classic version.

Vermouth Vermouth is called an aromatized wine. Flowers, herbs and other botanicals contribute flavour and aroma characteristics to a wine that has been fortified with alcohol.

Vermouth was considered medicine and we still enjoy vermouth for its ability to open the appetite or aid digestion. Dolin from Chambéry is a classic French producer that crafts several vermouths using a secret herb and spice blend.

You may also come across two other styles of Port: White Port made from white grapes, in both off-dry and sweet versions, rich with primary grape and fruit flavours, is an excellent aperitif served chilled or on the rocks with a slice of orange.

CM

MY

CY

CMY

Need a venue for your Christmas Party?

We love parties!

Call Rob or Janine for information.

K

@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228

www.theglassmonkey.ca

5842-111 Street

Croft, the first Port house to offer a pink (rosé) Port owes the creation to Australian winemaker Jen Pfeiffer. The fruity, fresh and vibrant flavours with a lively sweetness works as an aperitif or finds a home in cocktails. Jen has since returned home to Rutherglen, Australia where she carries on the fortified legacy at her family winery, Pfeiffer Wines.

Sherry is a wine of complexity and structure unlike any other. The wine hails from the sun-kissed Andalusian coast in the far southwest corner of Spain, in the Sherry Triangle, the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlucar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria.

In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience • Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850

The path to becoming Sherry is fascinating and complex. While all dry Sherry is from the Palomino grape, it is the aging method that determines what will end up in your glass. When fermentation is complete and the wines are totally dry, the more delicate wines are determined to be best suited for Fino. These are fortified to 15.5 per cent with mitad y mitad, a gentle mixture of grape spirit and mature Sherry. At this point, the barrels are not completely full—room is left for the development of flor, unique to the region. The flor allows the wine to age without air contact creating a refreshing and searingly dry pale wine with notes of citrus, almond and crisp salinity, a perfect aperitif and an excellent match for tricky-to-pair foods such as vegetables, salad and olives.

The not-so-delicate wines are fortified to around 17 percent. Due to the higher alcohol the flor does not grow, which allows contact with oxygen and the development of dried fruit, walnut and woody flavours. These fuller-bodied dry

Where all the best parties happen.

780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street

Please see “Port” on page 27.

The Tomato | November December 2016 25

Gold Chef Eric Hanson of Prairie Noodle Shop created a Nordic-inspired exercise in restraint: a single perfect spot prawn poached in a smoky sturgeon broth.

Flavour elements both sweet and savoury highlighted the prawn’s delicacy and created layers of complex flavour. This most intellectual dish, demanding your full attention, was paired with the 2014 Summerhill Ehrenfelser.

Silver Chef Doreen Prei of Get Cooking presented impeccably pan-seared Icelandic salmon and allowed it to take centre stage with only crunchy coldsmoked pumpkin seeds adding texture, two charred Brussels sprout leaves, a dot of chanterelle and celeriac purée and a subtle butternut squash miso sauce.

This sort of effortless simplicity requires a lot of rigour. Wine match: 2014 50th Parallel Pinot Noir.

ink-powder stencil of a whale, to the startling garnish evoking whalebone.

In between were flavourful elements of creamy sablefish, charred skin accenting its richness; a bite of albacore tuna set on sweet corn; one Brussels sprout leaf with a precious cargo of tiny vegetables.

Chartrand’s dish was surely the most beautiful of the evening. Culmina’s 2015 Unicus Grüner Veltliner was the match and also chosen as wine of the night.

The competing chefs have always been the heart and soul of the Gold Medal Plates event but it can be tough (and expensive) to leave their restos to compete. How to make it easier to compete and more fun to win? New this year: each team’s food budget increases by $500, all the teams receive their own dining experience right after the competition and each chef gets two free tickets for spouses or family to attend the event in their city. Here is the fun part: the winning chef in each city receives a one week Vineyard Villa Package at Borgo San Felice, in the heart of Chianti. Sweet!

The combo of chefs, Olympic athletes and Canadian musical talent raises serious dosh for the Canadian Olympic Foundation through the silent auction and bidding for trips. Over $11 million has been raised for Olympians so far.

Thank you generous Edmonton.

We had two extraordinary guest judges with us this year, 2015 national champion, chef Ryan O’Flynn, and Karl Johann Unnarsson, executive chef of Hotel Ranga in Iceland, one of the new destinations for Gold Medal Plates trips. The night was sold out. The overwhelming support that Edmontontians consistently show for Gold Medal Plates is gratifying. It’s a privilege to be part of it.

The best part? The energy that the apprentices and NAIT culinary students brought to the competition. What a stellar learning opportunity; what a night!

The 2016 Gold Medal Plates gold medal went to chef Eric Hanson (top centre); chef Doreen Prei (top left) took silver, and bronze went to chef Shane Chartrand (top right). Below from left: Olympians Erica Wiebe, Rosie Maclennan and Stephanie Labbe.

26 November December 2016 | The Tomato

Bronze Chef Shane Chartrand of Sage’s plate, called Charcoal and Smoke, was an ode to the Haida Gwai, from its cuttlefish-

Chef Hanson joins the winners of regional Gold Medal Plates competitions to vie for top spot at the Canadian Culinary Championships (CCC) in Kelowna, February 3-4. It’s a fun weekend. For information and tickets visit goldemedalplates.com.

Mary Bailey, editor of The Tomato, is the senior Edmonton judge.

Kids Continued from page 19.

never returned. “I can’t make that for you. My dad would kill me,” he remembers telling the customer—but with an assuredness that indicates the answer would remain the same today.

Today, Tony Mazzotta Sr. is comfortable in his retirement in his home town of Lago, in the Calabria region of Italy.

His sons say that he is proud of their efforts and that the Condé Nast poll that has given worldwide recognition to the restaurant he started.

At The Lingnan, mother and father Quon leave the day-to-day operations to Miles, but they are very much visible around the restaurant greeting customers. And until her next special project, Sheila Rich is happy to trek across the continent. In the meantime, they all share the knowledge that the kids are doing alright.

Communications professional Stuart Adams began research for his article in the ’80s while on his way to evening courses at the U of A, and he’s also bet a few food bills on the outcome of the Oilers versus his beloved Canadiens.

Port Continued from page 25.

Amontillado and Oloroso sherries are a perfect match for heartier fare such as venison and pork cheeks.

All styles of Sherry are aged in a solera system, a unique way of blending the wine with new wines from each vintage topping up older stocks. This guarantees a continuity of quality, style and remarkable value. Even entry level Sherry is in excess of four years of age with much of it being considerably older.

The vast majority of Sherry is dry.

Look for the words Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado or Oloroso on the label.

Cream, Medium, and Abacado are sherries sweetened with raisined Pedro Ximinez grapes.

The Madeira archipelago, the birthplace of both Ronaldo and Madeira, the world’s longest-lived wines, lies about 100 km off the coast of Portugal.

Madeira is impervious to the damage that heat and oxygen wreak on other

wines due to unique aging processes called canteiro and estufagem. These mimic the repeated heating and cooling effects of the ocean voyages of Portuguese captains visiting the many territories of their homeland.

The must is fortified with a 95 per cent grape spirit added as soon as a few hours after fermentation begins. After fortification, the wine aging—based on the historical shipboard aging under the tropical sun—begins. The estufagem process starts with heating the wine via hot water coils for three months, with further aging in wooden casks. During the more artisan canteiro process, the wine is cask-aged for at least two years in actual attics, exposing the wine to natural warming and cooling. This slower process produces complex and refined flavour characteristics.

www.themarc.ca

@themarcedmonton

There is Madeira for any occasion—look for Sercial with its citrus and almond notes if something dry is desired.

Toffee and vanilla-scented Malmsey is the sweetest style and best saved for dessert. In between are the smoky, medium-dry examples made from Verdelho and the rich and aromatic Boal with characteristics of cocoa, nuts and espresso.

Rutherglen, Victoria may have a shorter history than Port and Sherry but it is no less storied. Rutherglen Topaque (formerly called Tokay) is the only fortified wine made from Muscadelle, an antique French grape that found its way to Australia generations ago.

Try the complex and luscious Pfeiffer Rutherglen Topaque, luscious and rich with notes of toffee, caramel and butterscotch tempered with brewed tea notes. Look for Rutherglen Muscat if you prefer more treacle and chocolate notes.

Fortified wines are one of the great treasures of the wine world. They intimately communicate the soul of a region and allow you to take a step back in time. With a glass of fortified wine, be it Port, Sherry, Madeira or any other, you are tasting history and enjoying wine as it was enjoyed more than a century ago.

Margaux Burgess works to share her love of the fortified wines of the world. While completing her WSET Diploma she began visiting the Sherry triangle and is now a Certified Sherry Educator.

www.wusthof.ca Experience the WÜSTHOF difference at a retailer near you: The Pan Tree 550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park

Hendrix Condon Barr 11935 145 St. Edmonton

The Tomato | November December 2016 27

From the Archives

28 November December 2016 | The Tomato

first printed November December 2006

CULINARY BOOT CAMPS PREPARE FOR YOUR NEXT CULINARY ADVENTURE!

NAIT’s Culinary Boot Camps reveal the secrets to cooking and baking like a pro through hands-on practice, lectures and demonstrations in our state-of-the-art kitchens. Get your culinary skills in shape through lessons on planning, preparation and flavour pairings. Learn from NAIT’s celebrated chefs. Registration opens in February.

PASTRY BOOT CAMP [BAKG330] | Mon – Fri | July 10-14 Fee: $1,475 (+ $500 material fees)

FOR THE LOVE OF CHOCOLATE BOOT CAMP [CULG310] | Tue – Fri | July 18-21 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)

CULINARY BOOT CAMP [CULG305] | Tue – Fri | July 11-14 or July 18-21 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)

CURED MEATS, CHEESES AND PICKLES BOOT CAMP [CULG330] | Tue – Fri | July 11-14 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)

GOURMET BOOT CAMP [CULG306] | Tue – Fri | July 18-21 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)

MEAT BOOT CAMP [CULG340] | Tue – Fri | July 11-14 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)

Enlist today! Call NAIT at 780.471.6248 or register online at nait.ca/bootcamp

A LEADING POLYTECHNIC COMMITTED TO STUDENT SUCCESS

Nourishing Entertainment!

Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video. metrocinema.org Two Lovers and a Bear

November 11 - 17 Set in a small Nunavummiut town near the North Pole, where roads lead to nowhere, the film is a hypnotic romance about two star-crossed lovers who find that even the icy expanses of the Arctic offer little refuge from their pasts.

It’s a Wonderful Life - Food Bank Fundraiser

December 11 @ 12:30PM An angel helps a compassionate but despairingly frustrated businessman by showing what life would have been like if he never existed.

Admission is free with a non-perishable food or monetary donation to the Edmonton Food Bank.

Theater of Life

December 23 - 28 A deeply moving documentary about life, food, and waste. Theater of Life tells the riveting story of the Refettorio Ambrosiano, its chefs and the refugees and homeless it fed. A visual feast, this film will feed your spirit and your appetite.

Metro Cinema at the Garneau

Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:

8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org

Entertaining Menu

Bring the broth to a gentle boil.

Continued from page 7

Prepare the leeks. Cut off and discard the top third and bottom root of the leek.

Remove the first layer of the leek to avoid any woodiness in your risotto. Cut the leek into roughly ½-inch slices. Place in a bowl and rinse to remove and dirt. Strain and set aside.

Place the cheeses and juice of half a lemon in a bowl. Using a fork, mix until very well combined. The mixture should be thick and creamy but not dry, add a splash of cream if it is too dry. Season to taste with salt and lemon.

Evenly distribute the guanciale in a large non-stick pan. Cook over medium high heat until just crispy (do not overcook).

Remove from pan, set aside.

Place the parsley and zest of 1 lemon in a bowl. Dress with the juice of 1 lemon and a generous drizzle of olive oil. Season to taste with salt and a generous amount of coarsely-cracked black pepper.

Drizzle olive oil over each crostini.

Bake in the oven until golden but not dry. Dollop a spoon of ricotta on each crostino followed by 2 pieces of crispy guanciale and a pinch full of the parsley mixture. Serve immediately.

Serves 6-8.

Parmigiano and Leek Arancini The sweet leeks and nutty Parmigiano make a beautifully balanced arancini. If you want to take the extra step, stuff each arancino with a piece of fontina or mozzarella. If you have extra risotto: fry in a non-stick pan until golden, top with a sunny-side-up egg and a little grated Parmigiano for the perfect Boxing Day breakfast.

6 c

chicken or vegetable broth

2 c

arborio or carnaroli rice

6

leeks

2 cloves

garlic, whole

300 g parmigiano reggiano, freshly grated 1 piece parmigiano rind (cut off the end of your parmigiano) (optional) 4 T

freshly squeezed lemon

5 T + 2 T unsalted butter 2 c

dry white wine

2 T

extra virgin olive oil

5 leaves

fresh sage

kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper

30 November December 2016 | The Tomato

In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat 5 T of butter and olive oil over medium high heat. Add the leeks, season with a pinch of salt and cracked pepper. Cook for approximately 10 minutes or until the leeks are soft, add the whole garlic cloves and sage, continue cooking for 1 minute. Add the rice, stir with a wooden spoon, cook for about 1 minute stirring frequently. Add the white wine, turn the heat down slightly, cook until the wine has evaporated. Add a large ladle of boiling broth (or enough liquid to just cover the rice) and the Parmigiano rind. Continue cooking and stirring occasionally. Once the broth evaporates, add another ladle or 2 of broth.

Once the risotto has completed cooking, about 20-25 minutes total (the rice should have a slight give but no crunch) remove from the heat. Add the remaining butter and Parmigiano to the risotto; gently stir to incorporate. Add the lemon.

Season to taste with more cheese, salt and lemon. The risotto should have the consistency of loose, creamy porridge not mashed potatoes. If the risotto is too thick, add a little more broth. Pour the risotto onto a baking sheet, allow to cool for a few minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to fully cool in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Remove and discard the garlic cloves and sage. Roll the risotto into golf ball-sized balls.

Place the breadcrumbs, eggs and flour in separate bowls. Beat the eggs well and add ¼ c of water. Mix to combine. Roll each risotto ball in the flour, shake off any excess, then dip in the egg and finally roll into the bread crumbs.

Heat 1.5 L of sunflower oil or other frying oil in a large pot to 360ºF (ensure the pot is only half full of oil to avoid boiling over). Fry the arancini in batches of 8 to avoid overcrowding. Fry until the arancini are golden (about 3 minutes).

Gently remove the arancini with a steel slotted spoon, place them on a paper towel and season with a little salt.

3 c

bread crumbs

3

eggs

Serve with a little grated Parmigiano on top.

1 c

flour

Serves 6-8.

“As far as I’m concerned, there are only two really important decisions in a cook’s life: choosing a mate and buying a chef’s knife. If that seems like an overstatement, you just haven’t found the right knife.”

— Russ Parsons, former L.A. Times food writer

Enjoy the Canadian wilderness… and eat it.

POP UP INSIDE KENT OF INGLEWOOD 10816 Whyte Avenue, Edmonton • (587) 521-2034

10820 Whyte Avenue • 587-521-2034 • @knifewearYEG • knifewear.com

Kitchen Sink wine tastings, happenings and events Learn how to make a killer cheese board at The Cavern Cheese School (10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca). The November classes focus on creating sublime cheese and wine pairings. Two dates: Sunday, November 6 and Sunday, November 20 from 2-4pm, $75/pp. Call to book.

Bar Bricco starts a series of Winemaker Tastings starting with central Italian (Cortona) producer Tenimenti D’Alessandro, Tuesday, November 1 and northern Italy’s Franz Haas from Alto Adige on Wednesday, November 9. Email info@barbricco.com for tickets.

The Glass Monkey (5842 111 Street, Lendrum Shopping Centre, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) has two stellar events planned in November. A Tasting of Red Bordeaux, including some fine older vintages, $45 is on Wednesday, November 16. The popular Monkey Business, five courses paired with five wines, $89, is on Wednesday, November 23. Contact Janine to book, 780-760-2228.

Have dinner with noted Tuscan producer Antonia Zaccheo of Carpineto: Wednesday, November 9 at Pack Rat Louie’s (10335 83 Avenue, 780-433-0123 packratlouie.com), and Thursday, November 10 at Sorrentino’s Downtown (10162 100 Avenue, 780424-7500, sorrentinos.com). Call restaurants to book.

Sorrentino’s Truffle and Wine Dinner is at Bistecca (2345 111 Street, 780-439-7335, bisteccasteakhouse. com) Thursday, November 24. This annual dinner always sells out quickly. Call 780-439-7335 for tickets, 6pm start, $95/pp.

Upcoming tastings at Hicks Fine Wines (#109, 150 Bellerose Drive, St. Albert, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines.com): Tuesday November 15, Wines of Northern Italy with Italian Wine Ambassador Marcia J. Hamm, 7pm, $40; HFW Annual Christmas Open House, absolutely free, December 1, 5-8pm. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday, enjoy in-store bar pours.

There may be a few spots left for Cibo Bistro’s (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com) Five-Year Anniversary Dinner, Monday November 7. Enjoy five courses inspired by their recent trip to Northern Italy paired with five inspiring wines. Tickets, $155/pp, cibobistro.com.

Enjoy holiday appies and wine pairings with chef Doreen Prei at Color de Vino (9606 82 Avenue,

32 November December 2016 | The Tomato

780-439-9069, colordevino.ca) Saturday, November 19, from 7-9pm. Tickets $60, call to book. Taste the season at the Color de Vino Christmas Open House, Saturday, December 3, 1-5pm.

Lots of fun opportunities to finish holiday shopping and indulge at Aligra Wine & Spirits (8882 170 Street, Entrance 58, West Edmonton Mall, 780483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com). On Fridays and Saturdays in November and December enjoy free wine tastings in-store from 2-6pm. Learn how to brighten holiday entertaining with seasonal spirits at the Christmas Spirits Tasting, Tuesday, November 29, 7-9pm, $25/pp. The Customer Appreciation Open House is Thursday, December 15, 4-8pm.

Are you a woman in agriculture? Learn more about the new Women in Agriculture group during a networking event at Farmfair International (FFI), Thursday, November 10, 7:30pm, International AgBusiness Centre (Room 202). RSVP to bobbi@cheesecakecafe.ca.

Mark the date: Join Francesca Dal Cero of family estates Tenuta Montecchiesi (Cortona, Italy) and Tenuta di Corte Giacobbe (Soave, Italy) for a tasting and dinner at Kitchen, Wednesday, December 7, 6:30pm, $135/ pp+GST. Reserve at info@kitchenbybrad.ca.

product Knifewear, our favourite spot for cool knives and shaving gear, opens the pop-up shop From the Wild in partnership with wild-living expert Kevin Kossowan.

Up the game on your everyday carry and be ready for winter camping with field-tested gear for all-season fishing, cooking equipment, hunting knives, axes, Swedish outdoor wear, and trekking foods from Jeff Senger. Owner Kevin Kent calls the collection “a curated outdoor box store.” Find it at the back of Kent of Inglewood (10816 Whyte Avenue, 780761-0305, kentofinglewood.com). Holiday hours starting December 8 at Knifewear and Kent: 9am-8pm Monday-Saturday, 9am-6pm on Sundays.

from 4-9pm. Visit 124street.ca for all the deets. Holiday hours at Heart of the Home start December 7, open late Wednesday, Thursday and Friday until 8pm.

Zocalo (10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754, zocalo.ca) has lots of cool new things in store for the holiday. Make your own butter using the Kilner Butter Churn, made in England and ideal for the DIYer, $60. For the tea lover, check out the Umbra My Tea, a bendable stick tea infuser, dishwasher friendly, $13. The Fiesta Collection of colourful, hard-wearing Portuguese ceramics are a cheerful complement to any table. The eight-inch pasta bowl ($15), 12-inch serving bowl ($30) and the pitcher ($25) are available now. Zocalo stocks art-inspired tea towels and dishtowels ($12-18) by April Cornell and local artist Vicki Warnekki of Mezzaluna Studios.

We love gifts you can eat. The Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca) suggests a gift box filled with artisan crackers, jams and other delectables.

For cheese lovers think Cavern Cheese Club, available in three-, six- or 12-month subscriptions. Yum.

cooking classes Learn some updated techniques for the holiday meal during a Festive Do Ahead class at Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704 kitchenbybrad.ca): Tuesday, November 1, 6:30pm; Wednesday, November 8, 6:30pm; Saturday, November 5 and 19, 12pm. Classes are $135/pp +gst and include food, wine and the recipes.

Kitchen also offers a streamlined afternoon class TuesdayThursday for a minimum of eight people. Book until December 16, $50/pp.

January means Ukrainian at Kitchen. Learn how to make pyrohy, nalysknky, nachynka, Ukrainian gravy, cabbage rolls and bigos (hunters stew): Thursday, January 5, 6:30pm; Saturday, January 14, 12:30pm; Tuesday, January 17, 6:30 pm: Saturday, January 21, 12:30pm.

Classes are $135/pp+GST, recipes included.

Don’t miss Newget for the holidays. Find at the St. Albert Country Craft Fair, November 19 and 20; The Royal Glenora Club Gift Show, November 20; Make It Show November 24-27 and at the Festival of Trees, November 24-27. This year, The Festival of Trees is helping to bring Canada’s First Stroke Ambulance to the University of Alberta Hospital.

Here are three tasty cooking classes coming up at The Ruby Apron (780-906-0509, therubyapron.ca): Canapés, November 25, 6-9:30pm, $90/pp; Sourdough Workshop November 27, 10-12pm, $65; and Brunch, December 4, 10-1:30pm. All classes are taught by Kaelin Whittaker, a graduate of Ireland’s legendary Ballymaloe cooking school. There are still some catering dates available for the holidays.Visit the website to book a class or enquire about catering.

Light up the night and enjoy mulled wine, fondue and special offers at the Heart of the Home (12539 102 Avenue, 780-705-4928, heartofthehomeyeg.ca) during the All is Bright Festival, Saturday, November 19,

Gail Hall’s Seasoned Solutions Holiday Entertaining Express Class: Hors D’oeuvres, is on November 23, 6:30-8:30pm, $49.94/pp+gst. To register, visit seasonedsolutions.ca.

what’s new and notable

C AV E R N Gail plans a Culinary Tour to New York, May 18-21, including Broadway, a cooking class and other signature food experiences. Email gail@ seasonedsolutions.ca for details.

November cooking classes at The Pan Tree (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive Sherwood Park, 780-4644631, thepantree.ca) starting with Bread Making Basics with chef Toll, November 9; Exploring India with chef Cherwoniak, November 15; Wine Basics and Cooking with chef Cherwoniak, November 16; Zwilling Cookware Class with chef Deland, November 21; Squash with chef Toll, November 22; Holiday Treats with Sarah and Jade, November 29. Holiday hours: open Sundays 11am3pm and open until 8pm during the week of December 19-23.

restaurant buzz Lots of holiday merriment at Madison’s (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com) including holiday features November 15 to December 23; a five-course Christmas Day Dinner, $99.50/pp, and a five-course dinner on New Year’s Eve, $99.50/pp. Wine pairings are available, menus online soon. Enjoy a sumptuous à la carte New Year’s Day Brunch, four courses at two seatings, 10:30am and 12:30 pm.

Take a mini-break at the Union Bank Inn using the festive rate (code XMAS), which includes à la carte breakfast, wine and cheese and free Wifi. As well Madison’s has a few dates available for private events for 75 guests. Contact madisons@unionbankinn.com to book.

Check out Sunday brunch at North 53 (10240 124 Street, 583-524-5353, north53.com) with a tasty and compact menu, nifty brunch cocktails and a DJ spinning mellow grooves.

Nineteen St. Albert (150 Bellerose Drive, St. Albert, 780-569-1819, dinenineteen.com) is having a dinner in support of the High School Culinary Challenge, 6pm, Monday, November 14. Tix $100/pp, eventbrite.ca.

There is a new chef, Daniel Diaz Mora (Daniel) and a Peruvian-inspired new menu at The Blue Chair (9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861, thebluechair.ca) Love music? Think of the Blue Chair for NYE.

DIFFTF t XJOF CFFS t FTQSFTTP

GIFTS

son a e S y a id l o H This Give the Gift of Eating Well

Enjoy a casual wine and spuntini New Year’s Eve at Bar Bricco (10347 Jasper Avenue, 780-424-5588, barbricco.com) Two seatings, 6pm and 10pm. Email info@barbricco.com to book.

Corso 32 (10345 Jasper Avenue, 780-421-4622, corso32.com) has three seatings for NYE Dinner with a set menu and wine pairing. Email eat@corso32.com for menus and reservations.

10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG

Uccellino (10349 Jasper Avenue, 780-426-0346, uccellino.ca) offers their regular menu as well as a festive tasting menu and wine pairing for NYE. Enjoy four courses with wine at Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-4551336, thecavern.ca) on NYE with two seatings to choose from, 5pm and 9pm.

Reservations, 780-455-1336.

Opening soon Several bars, restos and a donut shop plan to be open before the end of the year: Malt & Mortar, 10416 82 Avenue, with menu by the burly chef Daniel Huber; Doughnut Party, Moonshine Doughnut’s storefront right by Duchess Provisions in Holland Plaza; Bundock, chef Ryan Hotchkiss’ new space at 10228 104 Street (not the ‘80’s Quebecois folk rock band) and Northern Chicken in the Relish Burger space on 124 street and 107 avenue. We’re especially excited about Baiju, the Shanghai in the 30’s concept by North 53, opening soon in the Mercer Building. The new look Hundred Bar & Kitchen, McLeod Tavern (10009 101A Avenue, 780-4250100) is now open.

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

The Tomato | November December 2016 33

bonjour Good bread, speciality cheese.

Tonight, or for a special occasion

8612-99 Street 780.433.5924 www.bonjourbakery.com

According to Judy Twenty years and counting…

So it’s been 20 years, eh? A couple of decades. Not a lot of time, if you say it fast.

But yes, it was only 20 years ago when a woman named Mary Bailey decided to do something about the quality and quantity of dedicated food writing in Edmonton. Enough with the old recipe sections; there was a lot more to food than that.

She started small, with 16 pages of staple-in-the-middle newsprint known as City Palate, soon to become required reading for local foodies.

Gradually, Edmonton’s City Palate morphed into a kind of newspaper/ use-paper/magazine highlighting local food and wine events, stirrings and happenings in restaurants, back door to front-of-house.

10117 101 St. Downtown Edm. Reservations 780.424.4218 Open late • 7 days a week • bistropraha.com

Judy Schultz

No longer satisfied with reading a few columns in our reluctant daily’s token food section, Bailey’s coverage of the burgeoning food scene here and elsewhere grew and grew.

Having dragged food-in-print out of its recipes-only doldrums, she was poised to catch the nearobsession with the culinary arts that began rolling over North America in the mid-to late-90s.

As the restaurant critic and food writer at the Edmonton Journal, I had become the city’s resident curmudgeon, constantly griping about our culinary shortcomings. Edmonton had too many steakhouses, too many bored chefs and boring menus dedicated to the dreaded catch-all: continental cuisine.

As a respected chef from Quebec-viaSwitzerland explained to me, the state of food arts in Canada was a work in progress. “When I came to this country, chefs were still (considered to be) nottoo-clever people hiding behind our saucepots.”

The birth of the Food Television Network, back in November of 1993, was destined to bring dramatic changes to the role of the professional chef.

34 November December 2016 | The Tomato

Out from behind their saucepots strode a youthful army of homegrown Canadian chefs, with regional NorthAmerican roots and sensibilities. Finally!

With them came Martha Stewart, the original food entrepreneur, challenging print media with her own magazine, television, radio and a flurry of cookbooks.

There was still no Bobby Flay or Giadda deLaurentis to make on-camera cooking look sexy, but we’d moved beyond the earnest and scholarly demos of Julia Child who, try though she did, could not make black-and-white television do justice to the ingredients for a vibrant bouillibasse.

YEARS

Celebrating Edmonton’s Food Culture Since 1996

Food television pushed the growing celebration of cooking and winemaking as legitimate art forms. It embraced trends, including the self-styled food writer, known as a blogger, jostling for online attention.

In the year 2000, Bailey and Crystal Armstrong created an Edmonton food and wine show called Indulgence, bent on pairing producers, chefs and VQA wineries. It was an instant hit; it still is. Along with the Edmonton Junior League, it supports culinary bursaries at NAIT. But even with Indulgence, local ingredients hadn’t yet found their niche.

Chefs were still investing heavily in out-of-season ingredients from faraway places. Then, in 2005, a Canadian

couple introduced their 100-mile diet.

To their great surprise and ours, it swept the North American food scene.

Although not entirely practical, the 100mile diet started a trend that changed the way we produce and consume food in this country. The locavore was born, and City Palate was there, celebrating local producers and a new crop of savvy homegrown chefs who were eager to work with them.

Along the way, vegetables were rediscovered. No longer stuck in the baby carrot/broccoli lane, we were introduced to pea shoots, heirloom tomatoes, varieties of squash we’d never heard of. Good God, is that kale on my plate? What next? Purees, foams and gastriques, that’s what. We had chefs who knew all about them, and in Bailey’s magazine, recipes from local experts were part of the deal.

The meat scene changed too.

Several Edmonton chefs had discovered offcuts and began to use entire animals, nose-to-tail.

In some kitchens there was even a ripple of interest in offal.

In 2010, Bailey decided to refresh her growing coverage of the food scene by re-naming her magazine The Tomato. The 2016 anniversary edition was a fat one including full-colour shots of The Tomato Food and Drink Kitchen Design Awards.

The Tomato’s contributing writers continue to examine local foodways. Craft beers, organic wines; a growing coffee culture; kitchen art and architecture; opinion and information.

It’s all here.

But Bailey hasn’t settled for local.

Twenty years later, she still wanders the globe like a hungry pilgrim. From Georgia to France, England to Italy, she eats and drinks on behalf of her readers.

Long may she wander.

Judy Schultz and Mary Bailey wandered the province and co-authored two volumes of The Food Lovers Trail Guide to Alberta. writer@judyink.ca

FOODOVATION 2016 food+innovation

Evening Reception

Conference 8am ­ 4pm

LIMITED TICKETS AVAILABLE

For more information Contact: Melissa melissa.bourgoin@agfoodcouncil.com

MAKING SPIRITS BRIGHT

Discover more at the Le Creuset Boutique in Southgate Centre or visit LeCreuset.ca

Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories