Take a bite of your city | September October 2016 | thetomato.ca
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Contents Features
Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net
The best kitchens of 2016
Publisher BGP Publishing
Copy Editor
Tracey L. Anderson Peter Bailey Judy Schultz Pamela Young
Illustration/Photography Kiefer Layne Hagen Ian Grant Photography Ryan Patrick Kelly Photography Aspen Zettel
Design and Prepress
14 The Great Pumpkin Recipe feature
18 The Enduring Power of the Poppy Seed How I discovered that poppy seeds could be used for more than making muffins | Pamela Young
20 The Castle Culinary Experience What if you went to Banff and never left the hotel? | Mary Bailey
Advertising Sales Shauna Faragini
12 Falling for Pumpkin More than pies, lattes and jack o’ lanterns | Tracey L. Anderson
Bill Rankin
Contributing Writers
6 The Tomato Kitchen Design Awards
22 Meet the Gold Medal Plates 2016 Contenders
26 The Tomato Food Stage
Bossanova Communications Inc.
WebMeister Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist
At the Edmonton Fall Home Show
Printer
Departments Distribution Greenline Distribution
For advertising information call 780-431-1802.
The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year.
5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town
For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net
10 Beer Guy Hop to it | Peter Bailey
16 Wine Maven Mary Bailey
24 From the Archives Teresa’s Journey | Mary Bailey
28 The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Mary Bailey, Publisher, The Tomato Food & Drink
32 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
34 According to Judy
20
Gatherings | Judy Schultz YEARS
thetomato.ca
Cover illustration: Marc Nipp, El Designo Inc., www.eldesigno.ca
Celebrating Edmonton’s
20 YEARS
Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | September October 2016 3
Come join in the fun! Celebrating 10 years on the Southside.
Party: September 10th, 2016 11:00 am - 3:00 pm
Family fun & lots of food! 5028-104A Street
italiancentre.ca
Dish
gastronomic happenings around town
edmonton cooks Edmonton Cooks by Tina Faiz and Leanne Brown is a collection of over 75 recipes from several of Edmonton’s most interesting restaurants and chefs. Learn how to make your favourite dishes, such as Hardware Grill’s truffled potato pyrohy, Izakaya Tomos’ tonpiei yaki or the Sugarbowl’s lamb burger, Shanghai 456’s Chinese eggplant, or Corso’s bolognese. You won’t be able to wait to get into the kitchen to start cooking. $37.95, Figure1 Publishing.
why is a raven like a writing desk? Cally’s Teas offers a Mad Hatter’s Tea on October 19 with currant cake and several drink-me teas, followed by Tea with Poirot on November 16, featuring tisanes and hot chocolate. The Christmas Tea in December has a Jane Austen theme and will feature plum puddings. Expect actors, readers, prizes and quizzes and, of course, tea and cake.
happy sixth birthday to the marc The Marc turns six years old in October, and we get the present: a bottle of Champagne Pierre Paillard Grand Cru Brut and frites with truffle aioli for $55, during Bubbles and Frites week, October 10-15. Another present from the Marc. Pull out some of your best bottlings from the cellar and take them to dinner. The Marc offers free corkage for reservations after 8:30pm Monday to Thursday throughout October.
cook like a chef at the tomato pro-am Want a crash course in how to cook? Think you’ve got the stuff to cook with an awardwinning chef? Find out in the Tomato Pro-Am. Enter to win a spot cooking with either Doreen Prei or Shane Chartrand during the Tomato Food Stage Pro-Am, Sunday, October 23. The teams will have 30 minutes to make their dish. Yes, there
FOOD STAGE
are prizes! How to enter: Send a tweet, facebook or instagram message with the hashtag #tomatoproam. Or send an email to tomatoproam@thetomato.ca. The small print: contestants must be able to be on the Tomato Stage (Northlands) from noon until about 3pm on Sunday, October 23.
ice ice baby New at the downtown Earth’s General Store (10150 104 Street, 780-757-3274, earthsgeneralstore.ca) is nitro cold brew. This long and gentle process is said to conserve more flavour and extract less acid and bitter oils. The beans used are certified Fair Trade and organic, of course. The other cool thing about Earth’s General cold brew is that it contains nitrogen, the same substance that’s added to Guinness to give it that lovely creamy foam right out of the can.
grab a yeg java Edmonton’s second annual Coffee Week runs October 14-22. During the week enjoy a home roasting workshop, a coffee crawl (by bike or foot), or learn where coffee comes from, at events that range from free to $40 with most in the $5 to $20 range. Sarah Jackson, the creator of Yeg Coffee Week, hopes to further conscious conversations over coffee. “I believe that coffee is a tool to help facilitate connection,” she says. “Cafés used to be the hub of information, the place where communities came to learn about art, technology, religion and more. Last year we had over 20 events and over 400 people attended.” Kick-off is at HIV Edmonton Art Gallery. Tickets and the full schedule at yegcoffee.com.
From top: the must-have cookbook for every Edmontonian; drink like Alice at Cally’s Teas; The Marc’s classic frites (Amanda LeNeve photo); YEG coffee week and The Tomato’s food stage at the upcoming Edmonton Fall Home Show.
The Tomato | September October 2016 5
e D n e h c t i K TKDA T
The Tomato Food and Drink Kitchen Design Awards
The Judges Darrel Halliwell Darrell Halliwell is an architect and managing principal for DIALOG’s Edmonton Studio. He is a member of the firm’s leadership team, responsible for strategic direction and management of the firm across Canada. dialogdesign.ca
d o o to F
a m e To
Th
n e h c t Ki
n i r &D
A n g i s De
George Ilagan
Michele Roach Michele Roach, principal and coowner of Wolski Design Group— one of Edmonton’s top interior design firms—is a minimalist-design pioneer, animal print enthusiast and self-proclaimed “creative problem solver with a soft spot for logistical nightmares”. wolskidesign.com
Ian Grant Photography
George Ilagan, a partner at Hastings Ilagan Design, is an architect by training and passionate about design. George has designed a myriad of kitchens, ranging from the simple to the sublime. hastingsilagan.ca
First Prize The renovation transformed a cramped and outdated kitchen into a modern-day showpiece. We kicked things off by gutting the space, blowing out the back wall and adding a contemporary style quad sliding patio door. The original flooring was replaced with large grey porcelain tile, and the space was sectioned off into two rooms, a kitchen and dining room that
6 September October 2016 | The Tomato
flow seamlessly into one another. In keeping with a mid-century aesthetic, the custom cabinetry is a combination of high-gloss white upper cabinets and horizontal-grain walnut lower cabinets. The vibrant aqua back-painted tempered glass backsplash adds a punch of colour. The kitchen island and countertops are in a stunning white quartz. Inspired by mid-century design and infused with 21st century
amenities, this kitchen is now a beautiful and functional space with chic style.
Designer/Builder Revington Renovations
Category Residential Renovation < $300K
What the judges said “Very nice material vocabulary, clean
Ian Grant Photography
Ian Grant Photography
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simple layout, easy space to work in.”
“Reno complements a mid-century house without being a mid- century reproduction.” “A nicely detailed light-filled space with refined hardware.” Please see ”TKDA” next page.
Ian Grant Photography
“Great relationship of the dining, kitchen and outside patio.”
The Tomato | September October 2016 7
n g i s e D n e h c t i K TKDA o T e h T
Second Prize
d o o F ato
Aspen Zettel photo
Budget-friendly white appliances were chosen for a light and fresh look. To fit the modest budget, but also to create a modern aesthetic, Ikea base cabinets and gloss-white cover panels were finished with book-matched solid walnut door and drawer fronts made by a local carpenter. A functional cutaway handle profile was designed for the drawers to minimize hardware, and an open shelf and back panel were designed to finish the island without the need for any additional cabinetry.
k n i r &D
s d r a w A m o n T g i e h s T e D n e h Kitc
This kitchen was an infill project in Parkview: the owners removed the roof of their 1950’s bungalow to add a suite for multigenerational living. The kitchen size is under 200 square feet, due to the small footprint of the bungalow, but still needed to function well for cooking, baking and casual seating.
Designer/Builder Joshua Kupsch, Land Faculty
Category Residential Renovation < $300K
What the judges said
“I like the choice of color and wood with the white.”
Honourable Mention Our kitchen is the central hub in our home. We designed it, acted as our own general contractor and decorated the end result. It was the hardest thing we have ever done.
Designer/Builder Deborah & Eric Anzinger
Category Residential DIY > $300K
What the judges said ‘Love the pantry! Especially the lighting fixture.” “Stupendous appliances.” “Like the use of colour in the furniture, appointments, artwork and carpet.”
8 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Aspen Zettel photo
“A playful fun kitchen on a modest budget.”
Aspen Zettel photo
“Bright and fresh, a place I’d like to hang out.”
Ryan Patrick Kelly Photography Ryan Patrick Kelly Photography
Ian Grant Photography
Third Prize With a white-on-white kitchen, it’s all about the details. Take a closer look and you’ll see that each window and interior door was framed with custom-trim work. The glass interior doors leading into the hallway and dining room were salvaged, repaired and refinished. A large, energy-
to brighten the space and highlight crisp white cabinetry. This renovation transformed the original 1950s yellow kitchen into a well-designed space with classic tailoring.
Designer/Builder Revington Renovations
What the judges said “Beautiful, pristine ambience, a classic Canadian kitchen.” “Lights over the island are great and well suited to the space.” “ As an island buff, this one is almost perfect as a multifunctional
efficient window was installed, along
Category
piece of millwork. The overhang
with LED potlights and pendants,
Residential Renovation < $300K
could have been six inches deeper.”
Honourable Mention This Avanti show home kitchen in Windermere was Frank Lloyd Wright inspired, with a mix of woods, paints and natural stone finishes.
Boulangerie
bonjour
Good bread and speciality cheese. Tonight, or for a special occasion. 8612-99 Street • 780.433.5924 www.bonjourbakery.com
NEW
Expanded Store YOUR
Icelandic Fish Connection
Designer/Builder Rebecca Gagne, Cucina Bella Ltd.
Category Residential New Build < $300K
What the judges said “Nice work flow, a perfect triangle, and the coffee nook is a nice touch.” “Beautiful stone work, especially the herringbone backsplash.” “Recessed ceiling is an added bonus as it helps the scale of the room.”
Quality
WILD
Seafood OCEAN ODYSSEY INLAND 10027 167 Street www.oceanodysseyinland.ca 780-930-1901
The Tomato | September October 2016 9
Beer Guy Hop to it
SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton
Some dads dream of their sons playing in the NHL, but for a beer geek, what could be better than a son working in the surging BC craft beer biz? This past summer my son, Will, did historical research for the BC Hop Company in Abbotsford, BC. BC Hop Co is part of an ongoing Canadian-grown hops renaissance. In the early 20th century, hops were a significant crop in Canada, particularly in British Columbia. Hop cultivation began in Saanich on Vancouver Island in 1862 but really flourished in the Fraser Valley, where growing conditions for humulus lupulus were perfect. At the industry’s peak in the 1940s, over 2,000 acres of hops were under cultivation around Chilliwack, with more than 4,000 workers employed during harvest. But after World War II, BC hop production went into decline due to increased competition from hop growers across the border in Washington and Oregon. The last BC hop farm closed in 1997. That is, the last BC hop farm until the craft beer revolution and its hopforward brews created a new market for locally grown hops. Rebecca Kneen in Sorrento, BC, showed the way, planting hops in 2001 on her organic farm to supply her husband Brian MacIsaac’s organic craft brewery, Crannóg Ales. In 2008, Christian Sartori saw the growing demand for local hops and planted 13 acres of hops on his Sartori Cedar Ranch near Chilliwack. The BC Hop Company is an ambitious start-up founded by Dwayne Stewart. It is a reboot of the company that operated over 300 acres of hop yards in the Fraser Valley from 1902 to 1954. My son was researching the predecessor company, looking for a link between the hops of the Fraser Valley and the ales produced in England in the early 20th century. Stewart understands that craft brewers will pay a premium to use local hops in their beers, but only if the quality and consistency are there, so Stewart has
10 September October 2016 | The Tomato
invested in high-quality, hop-processing equipment. The hop renaissance isn’t limited to BC. New hop yards have opened in Nova Scotia, Quebec and Ontario. In 2012, there were only five hop yards in Ontario; in 2016, there are 80. In Alberta, barley remains king, with 4.3 million tonnes produced in Alberta in 2015, over half the total Canadian production. But some brave souls are determined to grow hops commercially in Alberta. Sisters Catherine Smith and Karin Smith Fargey established Northern Girls Hops in Darwell, about an hour west of Edmonton, planting their first hops in 2013. Today, they have 800 plants growing on a 0.7 acre plot. As with BC growers, they planted Cascade and Centennial, two of the popular, American-developed “C” variety hops, plus Golding and Sterling. They found the Centennial variety has done especially well in the Alberta climate. At 53 degrees latitude, Northern Girls is the most northerly commercial hop yard in North America, past the 50 degrees line for optimal growing conditions. But Smith Fargey told me, “we located our hop yard to make the most of micro-climate: our hop yard is sheltered and slopes towards the south while sitting on a rise of land.” Even an early Alberta snowfall in September 2014 didn’t faze them, coming through with a successful harvest. As with all Canadian hop producers, the demand for Northern Girls hops far outstrips the supply. The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture estimates there are 339 acres of hops being farmed in Canada in 2016. A ridiculously small amount, but it is growing quickly. And as Smith Fargey says, “the market for hops is wide open in Alberta. We are now seeing more producers entering into this market. The exciting thing is that we have an opportunity to grow hops in a distinctive environment, and we’re excited to see that reflected in flavour. We are really looking forward to seeing what the Alberta hop picture looks like three to four years from now.”
Peter Bailey
Hop To It Six-Pack Only a small (but growing) part of Canadian craft beer production uses Canadian hops. Look for special releases this fall that use wet hops, fresh from the vine, like Driftwood’s Sartori Harvest IPA.
w TASTE & TRADITION w
For generations the Zenato family has perfected traditional Veronese winemaking methods to create their award-winning wines.
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Chico, CA The craft beer icon that invented the American pale ale style, finally available in Alberta. In 1980 homebrewers Ken Grossman and Paul Camusi took the aromatic, American-made Cascade hop and used it brew the first batch of American pale ale. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale would go on to kick-start the craft beer revolution. Forget Budweiser, this is the great American beer, full-stop.
Russell Peaks and Valleys Extra Pale Ale, Surrey, BC Chilliwack Hop Farms is one of the new breed of Fraser Valley hop growers looking to fill the demand for local hops by the burgeoning BC craft beer industry. Here Russell Brewing uses Chilliwack Hop’s super Cascade Centennial hops plus malt from Gambrinus Malting in Armstrong, BC, to make a hoppy all-BC pale ale.
Exclusively imported by Galileo Wine & Spirits www.galileowineandspirits.com w www.zenato.it
Alley Kat High Level IPA, Edmonton Northern Girls co-owner Karin Smith Fargey told me it was a highlight last fall for Northern Girls hops to be used in Alley Kat’s all-Alberta beer (Alberta Dragon IPA). This spring Alley Kat used spruce tips gathered at Northern Girls to brew their first Back Alley Brew (Spruce Almighty). New this fall is a hop-bursted IPA full of El Dorado, Mandarina Bavaria, and Jarrylo hops.
Yeg Coffee Week Oct 14 -22nd
Blindman Long Shadows IPA, Lacombe A big, delightfully juicy, hop-forward take on the American IPA style, with what Blindman Brewing calls “all the flavours and aromas of the Pacific Northwest—floral, pine, citrus, pine and funk.” Dry-hopped with Citra and Simcoe hops to bump up the hop aroma and flavour.
Parallel 49 Craft Lager, Vancouver A crisp and refreshing pale lager with a touch of tart and a touch of sweet. Brewed with Sterling hops from Sartori Cedar Ranch in Chilliwack. Sterling hops are similar to Saaz hops, which give Czech pilsners their snap and pop. This was a gold medal winner for lagers at the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards.
Big Rock Mosaic Lager, Calgary/Vancouver Opening Big Rock Urban Brewery in the heart of Vancouver’s craft beer scene seemed like carrying coals to Newcastle. But it is proving to be a source of good ideas, including this tasty India pale lager designed by Vancouver brewmaster Jody Hammell. The marvelous new Mosaic hop from Yakima is the source of the beer’s rich fruit, pine and herbal flavour and aroma. Peter Bailey will be presenting a tasting tour of Alberta beers at St. Albert’s Dig In! Festival on October 15. He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian.
Learn about Edmonton’s coffee community through events, workshop, tours and more.
Art & Coffee Show
Coffee Week Launch In partnership with HIV Coffee Shops Roasters Edmonton & Faces of Edmonton. Oct 13, 7-9 pm Equipment Coffee Week 9702 111 Ave
Fo l l ow Us : @ Ye g C o f f e e
YegC offee .com for a list of participating cafes.
The Tomato | September October 2016 11
FA L L I N G F O R P U M P K I N : more than pies, lattés and jack-o’-lanterns TRACEY L. ANDERSON
Ah, pumpkins, the classic symbol of autumn. These bright orange fruits can be found at farmers’ markets, grocery stores and u-pick farms. But many of us don’t know how to savour them beyond baking a Thanksgiving pie, spicing a latté or carving a jack-o’-lantern.
Picking the Perfect Pumpkin For carving or decorating the front porch or dining table, Tam Andersen recommends Prize Winner, Atlantic Giant or Gargoyle. “The farm won Best Looking Pumpkin in the Smoky Lake Pumpkin Weigh-Off one year with a Prize Winner,” says Tam. An Atlantic Giant holds the world record for the heaviest pumpkin at over 1,000 kilograms. Gargoyle is hard shelled and keeps for months. “Unlike field pumpkins, which are bred for flavour, these pumpkins have been cultivated for size. For all intents and purposes, they are inedible,” says Tam. • Choose a pumpkin without soft spots, mould, cuts or scrapes. • A broken stem can lead to rotting, so always choose a pumpkin with an intact, solidly attached stem. • Keep the pumpkin indoors at a cool 15°C. • Don’t store pumpkins on a concrete floor; condensation can cause soft rot and the bottom can fall out. • If you’re buying from the grocery store remember that the ones in parking lot bins may have been exposed to rain and/or frost. If possible, select one on display in the store.
Tam Andersen describes her role at Prairie Gardens as the Director of Fun. Some of the pumpkin fun you can find there includes the Haunted Pumpkin Festival, which starts September 24 and runs every weekend in October, including Thanksgiving Monday. Don’t miss the pumpkin cannon that hurtles pumpkins high into the air to splat into bits as they crash to the ground. For more details, visit prairiegardens.org.
12 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Prairie Gardens photo
Pumpkin Fun at the Farm
Tam Andersen, the owner of Prairie Gardens and Adventure Farm in Bon Accord, has been growing pumpkins for many years. She loves them “in all their wonderful, lumpy bumpy shapes, sizes and colours,” and believes they are one of the most under-utilized foods from the garden. The twelve-acre pumpkin patch at Prairie Gardens produces over 50 varieties, mostly short-season types that grow from seed to maturity in about 100 days. Harvest usually starts around mid-September. In a successful year, the farm grows a scale-tipping 225,000 kilograms of pumpkins. Pumpkins vary from shades of red, tan, pink, white and blue. Their skins can be smooth, creased, wrinkled, warty, bumpy or even striped. No matter what they look like though, pumpkins provide unlimited pleasures for your palate. They may be autumn favourites, but they can be enjoyed all year if stored well or frozen. Each pumpkin variety is best suited to specific tasks and dishes; those suitable for eating are not good for carving or decorating and vice versa. “Generally, the heaviest pumpkins for their size are the best culinary types, but they each have special qualities,” says Tam. Pumpkins are extremely versatile, with velvety, smooth textures and flavours that range from rich and earthy, to nutty, to sweet. Aside from pumpkin pie, you could make other desserts such as cakes, loaves, mousse, cheesecake or cookies. But pumpkins aren’t just for dessert; their textures and flavours lend themselves well to savoury dishes too. “We have used pumpkins in every course of the meal at Prairie Gardens,” says Tam. Nearly any cooking method works—baked, boiled, roasted or fried. Or try them raw as a crudité, mixed into a smoothie or pickled.
Since pumpkins are part of the squash (cucurbita) family, use as you would your favourite squash, such as acorn or butternut. Try pumpkin on a pizza, in ravioli, gnocchi or risotto, in chili or curry, in soups and chowder, or in vegetarian dishes such as veggie burgers or grilled cheese sandwiches. You can also serve pumpkin as a side dish: roasted with sea salt and rosemary, or as pumpkin fries, which Tam says taste “like sweet potato fries, only better!” If you’re starting with a whole pumpkin, Tam suggests two cooking methods. Cut the pumpkin in half. Clean out the stringy flesh and seeds. Roast the pieces cut-side down in a pan at 350°F for about an hour or until the flesh is tender. Or, roast the pumpkin whole. Pierce the skin so that it doesn’t explode. Place it in the coals of a fire. When it’s cooked (in about an hour), split it in half, remove the guts and peel off the burned skin. The Grey Ghost, a Japanese pumpkin with a grey-blue rind (yes, blue!) and deep orange flesh, is Andersen’s favourite. It keeps well and improves with age; it’s actually at its best after two to five months. The sweet earthy taste, similar to a sweet potato, makes this variety one of “the best cooking pumpkins because of the thick meat and superior flavour.” It pairs well with anise, chili powder, cumin, rosemary and tarragon. Because of its unique colouring, Tam suggests serving Grey Ghost roasted or grilled with the skin on. She enjoys it fire-roasted and served with chimichurri. Another blue-hued pumpkin is the Jarrahdale Australian Blue, aromatic, mild and sweet, best in curries, stews and soups. Lumina White tastes mild, sweet and fruity; try it in waffles, tarts and flans. Cannonball Pie—more traditional looking, with an orange rind—is popular for pies, but also for cheesecake or a pumpkin apple crisp.
Suggested pairings include pecans, maple syrup, citrus, vanilla and chocolate.
Tracey’s Pumpkin Pancakes Pumpkin isn’t just tasty and versatile, it’s good for you. One cup has 30 calories. It’s rich in antioxidants, fibre and vitamins A, C and E. The seeds are cholesterol free and good for the brain because they contain omega-3 fatty acids. One cup of dried, shelled seeds has 721 calories, 30 g protein and 110 per cent of the recommended dietary allowance (RDA) of iron. 2 c flour ½ c brown sugar 2 t
baking powder
2 t
baking soda
¼ t salt 1 t
cinnamon
½ t nutmeg ½ t allspice ½ t ginger 1 c milk, room temperature 1 c pumpkin purée 2 eggs with yolks and whites separated ½ c applesauce, room temperature
oil for the pan
Prepare the frying pan with oil or butter. Heat on medium until hot. In a mixing bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and ginger. In a separate bowl, combine the milk, pumpkin, egg yolks and applesauce. Mix wet ingredients (except egg whites) into dry ingredients just until moistened. Beat the egg whites until firm. Gently fold egg whites into batter. Turn the heat on the pan to low. Ladle in the batter. Use 2 T or more per pancake. Cook until the bottom is light brown. Flip and cook for 1 to 2 more minutes. Serves 8. Tracey L. Anderson is a writer, editor and poet from Edmonton. She first learned to love pumpkin during her overseas travels. Mornings are her favourite time to savour its distinct flavours because pumpkin pancakes taste like pie for breakfast.
The Tomato | September October 2016 13
The Great Pumpkin
Pumpkin lends a earthy and sweet flavour to brittle, hummus, soups and dessert. Just be sure to buy an eating pumpkin (or squash) not a carving pumpkin.
Pumpkin Seed Brittle
Pumpkin Hummus Adapted from taste.come/au.
½ small pumpkin, peeled, cut into small pieces (about two cups)
1 clove
garlic, crushed
2 T
fresh coriander, chopped
Place pumpkin on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Drizzle oil over and roast at 350ºF until golden, about 25 minutes.
This is a favourite of Tam Anderson at Prairie Gardens. Recipe by Matthew Cetta.
1 (400g) can chickpeas rinsed and drained
1⅓ c sugar
2 T
tahini
¼ c
1 T
lemon juice
Place roast pumpkin, chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, ground cumin and garlic clove in a food processor. Season. Process until smooth. Stir in fresh coriander.
ground cumin
Makes about 1 cup hummus.
light corn syrup
2½ T unsalted butter ¼ c
water
¾ t
salt
¼ t
baking soda
½ t
chipotle powder
1 t
1¾ c pumpkin seed (pepitas)
Generously grease a cookie sheet with oil. Heat a large cast iron or other heavybottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast until lightly golden brown (about 4-5 minutes). Remove from heat and set aside. In a medium pot, combine sugar, light corn syrup, butter, and water. Whisk briefly to combine. Over medium heat cook until the mixture caramelizes and is a nice medium brown (about 15 minutes). At this point the mixture can burn very quickly, so keep a close eye on it. Remove the pot from the burner. Whisk in the salt, baking soda, and chipotle powder. Add the pumpkin seeds and stir until they are fully coated. Working quickly, pour the contents of the pot out into the prepared baking sheet. Using a rolling pin, spread the mixture out about ¼-½ inch thin. Allow the brittle to cool and break up into pieces. Makes about 1½ pounds of brittle and can be stored for up to a week in an airtight tin.
14 September October 2016 | The Tomato
The Right Tools
Cast iron coated with enamel is ideal for cooking and serving, and offers the best in cooking superiority and easy-to-clean performance. It’s the best of both worlds; the sturdy enamel coatings resist chipping, cracking, rust and do not need seasoning, while benefiting from cast iron’s easy-does-it cooking qualities. These pumpkin-shaped legacy pieces will be on autumn tables for decades.
Pumpkin Marmelata This jam-like chunky spread is excellent with roast pork, or as part of a cheese or charcuterie board. 1 sml-med
pumpkin
4 c
raw sugar
1 t
ground clove
1 t
allspice
Preheat oven to 375°F. Mix sugar and spice in a large bowl and set aside. Peel and seed the pumpkin. Rough chop flesh, toss with sugar and spices and place in a roasting pan. Roast in the preheated oven for about an hour until the pumpkin is soft and browning. Mash in a food-mill or food processor (mixture should be chunky). Check the sweetness and add more sugar if desired. Makes about 4 cups and keeps for about two weeks in the fridge.
The Le Crueset Pumpkin Dutch Oven Casserole (2.1 litre, $250) is a seasonal piece in the classic Flame colour. The black matte cast iron knob is positioned off centre to mimic nature.
Chez Panisse Butternut Squash Soup
The Staub Black Pumpkin Dutch Oven Casserole (3.2 lire, $400) comes with a decorative brass handle, which is oven-safe to 500ºF. Staub also offers individual ceramic pumpkin-shaped cocottes in orange and white.
Our version of a simple, extremely satisfying soup first tasted at Alice Water’s Chez Panisse. 4 c rich chicken or vegetable stock 1
butternut squash (or similar)
1 bunch
fresh sage
2 c stale rustic bread cut or torn into large chunks sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper best quality extra-virgin olive oil for croutons and drizzle
Preheat oven to 400ºF.
Cut the squash in half, place about half the sage on the cut side and roast, cut side down, about an hour or until soft. Remove to a cutting board until cool enough to handle. Scoop out, then rough chop the flesh, leaving behind the seeds, skin and the blackened sage. About 15 minutes before the squash is done, toss the bread chunks with a good splash of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a cookie sheet and toast until golden brown and crunchy on the outside. Reserve. Heat stock to just under boiling in a saucepan on the stove. Place the squash and any pan juices in the hot stock and simmer for about 15 minutes to marry flavours. To Serve: Place ¼ of the croutons in each plate or bowl. Ladle hot soup over. Garnish with a few leaves of the fresh sage and drizzle with oil. Add a crumble of bacon if desired Serves 4-6.
Pumpkin Soup with Thai Flavours Sweet, creamy and spicy, have it chunky or smooth. 1
red onion, chopped
2 T
grated fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 red chili (Thai bird chili) chopped seeds removed 3 c
vegetable or chicken stock
1 can
coconut milk
2 T
fish sauce
1 T
packed brown sugar
8 c peeled and chopped pie pumpkin
Pumpkin Gnocchi with Spinach, Kitskoty Pecorino and Pine Nuts “Making gnocchi with pumpkin is fun and a little bit different. People underestimate the versatility of the pumpkin.” – Tracy Zizek, Kitchen by Brad.
Pumpkin Gnocchi 1 med pumpkin (about 2 lb) ½ t
grated nutmeg
½ t
salt
¼ t
white pepper
2¾ c
flour
The Cheesiry’s Kitskoty sheep’s cheese for garnish (or aged Italian pecorino) toasted pine nuts, for garnish
Preheat oven to 400ºF. Bake pumpkin whole for about 1 hour and 45 minutes until a sharp knife can be inserted with ease. Cool until the pumpkin can be handled. Cut pumpkin in half and remove seeds. Scoop out flesh and purée in robot coupe or food processor.
“But where,” she wondered, “would she find that drink she loved so much? Customized baskets and gift cards for all her gift-giving needs? Exclusive tastings, classes and Wine Club? A warm, welcoming store and the best staff in town?”
West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58, Beneath Simons Like us on Facebook • Follow us on Twitter • Find us on Yelp www.aligrawineandspirits.com • 780.483.1083
Place purée in a large bowl. Add seasonings and flour and mix by hand. The dough will be quite sticky still. Flour countertops and hands. Take small parcels of dough and roll to the thickness of your index finger. With a floured sharp knife, cut dough into small, bite-sized sections. If the dough is too sticky to work with, you can add more flour, but keep in mind that the more flour added to the dough, the more dense and heavy the gnocchi will be. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and put gnocchi in. Cook for roughly 5 minutes or until al dente.
DIFFTF t XJOF CFFS t FTQSFTTP
Indulge in Cavern Wine Bar 10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG
8 c peeled and chopped winter squash
Spinach Purée
2 T
lime juice
1 head fresh spinach
½ c
chopped fresh cilantro
½ med yellow onion, diced
In a stockpot, sauté onion, garlic and ginger until soft, about 10 minutes. Add chili. Add stock, coconut milk and fish sauce. Add pumpkin squash and sugar and cook at a simmer until the squash is softened. Stir in limejuice. Taste to adjust seasoning, adding salt, pepper or juice as needed. Leave chunky, or puree with an immersion blender. Garnish with cilantro and a bit more coconut cream if desired.
10025-106 Street • 780-423-2117
¼ c
white wine
1 T
butter
1-2 T
heavy cream
sea salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
Sauté onion and spinach in butter until onions are translucent. Purée mixture in blender, then season. In a separate pot,
Serves 6. Please see “Pumpkin” on page 30.
In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience • Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850
The Tomato | September October 2016 15
Kiefer Layne Hagen photos
Wine Maven The cognac was flowing at the not-quiteyet-open Bar Clementine in August for the 2016 Alberta Hennessey Cocktail Competition. In competition for a trip to visit Hennessy Maison in Cognac were James Grant, Woodwork; Julie Gobeille, Yellow Door, Calgary; Mike Krumins, El Cortez; Leland Morrison, The Black Pearl; Jeff Savage, Proof, Calgary; Jordan Watson, Chvrch of John; Fern Zevnik, The Bourbon Room, Calgary and Taylor Zottl, Mercer Tavern. “It was a fantastic event,” says judge Chuck Elves. “I don’t think I’ve have ever seen that many people at a cocktail competition.” First place (and the trip) went to Fern Zevnik for Le Terre Vine, a savoury blend of Hennessey VS Cognac with shitake honey syrup, fresh mushroom, porcini tincture, Calvados, fresh lemon and salt bitters. Fern is the bar manager of Calgary’s Bourbon Room. “Hennessey has beautiful fruity notes but also an earthiness. I wanted to celebrate that in my cocktail.” Fern Zevnik in action at the Hennessey Cocktail Competition.
We had a sneak taste of the CheckMate Chardonnays this summer, the winery lambasted for launching in NYC and for the price by some, the wine eagerly anticipated by others. This sort of chat is nothing new for Anthony von Mandl, owner of Mission Hill, who has been confounding critics and wowing wine drinkers for 40 years. He did it in 1994 when John Sime’s 1992 barrelfermented chard won Top Chardonnay in the World at International Wine & Spirit Competition in London, and he’s doing it again with CheckMate. Some will remain unconvinced that CheckMate has anything new to say about Okanagan wine, yet cannot deny that von Mandl’s bold move to lead the world to Okanagan Chardonnay raises the bar, again.
In second place was Woodwork’s James Grant and third went to another Calgary bartender Jeff Savage.
Tinhorn 2013 Oldfield Series Cabernet Franc (BC VQA Okanagan Valley, $32) We love the yin/yang of Cabernet Franc’s herbal notes with its bright red fruit and this bottling has it in spades. Oak is wellintegrated, drink now or cellar for six to eight years. Cedar Creek 2015 Ehrenfelser (BC VQA Okanagan Valley, $20) Ehrenfelser is getting harder to find in the valley as people rip up vines to grow something considered more important. But these vines are a treasure, over 35 years old and make a fresh, aromatic off-dry white that is a pleasure to drink. Have at brunch or with a crab salad. Cedar Creek 2013 Platinum Desert Ridge Meritage (BC VQA Okanagan Valley, $50) Mostly Cab Sauv with Cab Franc, Merlot and six per cent Malbec. Desert Ridge is a special bit of land in Osoyoos, an old stony riverbed, ideal for Bordeaux varietals. This wine has great structure, beautiful complexity and is a keeper. Find these wines and spirits at Aligra, Bin 104, Color de Vino, Hicks Fine Wines and other fine wine shops. Not all wines in each shop. Prices are approximate.
Ingo Grady, Director of wine education at CheckMate, holds a three bottle case of CheckMate.
The winemaker is Chardonnay specialist Philip McGahan (Australian, formerly of Williams Selyem in the Russian River Valley). The wines, bottled unfined and unfiltered, reflect their sites and gentle, unobtrusive winemaking. Capture, from the vineyard 13 kilometres from the US border, possessing a subtle spiciness in the aromas and flavours along with lovely wet stone, lemon and peach. The wellintegrated malo contributes to the firm texture and balanced acidity. Queen Taken (Golden Mile) has beautifully integrated fruit, a restrained, buttery texture, that hint of spicy and an intriguing feral note along with some fruity muscat aromas. Little Pawn is for oak lovers, soft-textured with lemon curd aromas and flavours. Fool’s Mate is an assemblage from all the vineyards—complex, with a rich texture and attractive lemon/lime notes. Attack from the Black Sage Bench was made in a foudre, large, thick-staved oak barrels. The oak influence is less and the wine responds differently to oxygen in these large containers. Attack was also 100 per cent inoculated; the others have some ambient (vineyard) yeast influence. Prices range from $80-$125.
16 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Lots of Canadian wine releases this month, a few to consider for fall drinking and cellaring: Tinhorn Oldfield Series 2015 2 Bench White (BC VQA Okanagan Valley, $20) With almost equal weighting of Chard, Sauv Blanc and Viognier, along with some Semillon and five per cent Muscat, expect ripe apricot stone fruit, zesty tropical aromas and flavours and a rich mouth feel. Drink with tandoori chicken now or cellar for four to six years.
Mary Bailey
EVENT CALENDAR TUE. SEPTEMBER 13
THUR. OCTOBER 6
Winopedia Wine Fundamentals 101, $40, Aligra, 780-483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com
Taylor Fladgate Port Tasting, $40
FRI. SEPTEMBER 16 Touring the Okanagan, BC VQA Tasting, $50, Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines.com
WED. SEPTEMBER 21 Yalumba Dinner with Jane Ferrari, $100, Continental Treat, 433-7432.
THUR. SEPTEMBER 22 Yalumba Dinner with Jane Ferrari, $95+gg, Harvest Room at the Hotel Macdonald, 780-429-6424.
THUR. SEPTEMBER 22 Monkey Business at the Glass Monkey, $89, The Glass Monkey 780-760-2228.
Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines.com
TUE. OCTOBER 18 Viva Italia, from Prosecco to Cannonau, $35, Aligra, 780-4831083, aligrawineandspirits.com
WED. OCTOBER 19 Mayor’s Battle of Strathcona Chefs 2016, $125, Festival Place Box Office 780-449-3378.
THUR. OCTOBER 20 Taittinger Champagne Dinner $95, Ernest’s Restaurant (NAIT) October 20, 780-471-8676.
Edmonton Oktoberfest albertabeerfestivals.com
hicksfinewines.com
WED. OCTOBER 5 Taylor Properties Port Tasting $40, Crestwood Fine Wines 780-488-7800.
780.464.4631 www.thepantree.ca 220 Lakeland Dr., Sherwood Park On the corner of Lakeland Dr. and Broadmoor Blvd @PanTreeKitchen
/ThePanTree
Penfolds Tasting, 7pm, $30 Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000
Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné Wine Dinner, $50, The Alberta Hotel Bar and Kitchen, 780-760-0062.
Available at The Pan Tree
THUR. OCTOBER 20
SEP. 30 & OCT. 1
MON. OCTOBER 3
FOR A LIFETIME OF DELICIOUS COOKING
WED. OCTOBER 26 Joseph Drouhin Winemaker Dinner $60+gg, Mayfair Golf & Country Club, swalters@mayfair.ca
THUR. OCTOBER 27 Monkey Business at the Glass Monkey, $89, The Glass Monkey 780-760-2228.
Your LOCAL choice for Gluten Free since 1991
Gluten Free, Fresh 10940 - 120 Street Open Tuesday to Saturday www.GetItFresh.ca 780-732-7527 GLUTEN FREE HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD®
The Tomato | September October 2016 17
The enduring power of the poppy seed How I discovered that poppy seeds could be used for more than making muffins. — Pamela Young — As a kid growing up in north Edmonton in the 1960s, I looked out our dining window one autumn afternoon to see a man I didn’t know rummaging around in our mostly harvested garden, stuffing something into an open burlap sack. Curious and a little afraid, I alerted my mother, who scared off the intruder by banging fiercely on the window and making vigorous shooing gestures. We waited until my dad got home to see what the stranger had taken. All that was missing were the seed heads of most of our poppies. My dad laughed. “If he’s planning to use them the way I think he is, he should have been here a couple of months ago when the heads were green, and the poppy juice was still running. I doubt the seeds will do him much good now.” I had no idea what my dad was talking about, so that evening in the garden, I received my first lesson on the ways in which poppy seeds can be used for more than making muffins. Although this was strange and fascinating news to me at the time, the opium poppy’s many properties have been common knowledge for thousands of years. Archeological evidence of papaver somniferum cultivation—in Latin, the sleep-bringing poppy—dates back more than 7,500 years to sites along the Mediterranean and in Western Europe. Ancient societies used poppy seeds as a source of food, fuel, medicine and for altering states of consciousness. Archeologists found the remnants of a poppy seed cake in the ruins of Pompeii. Tutankhamen’s wife is depicted on an ancient Egyptian wall mural, tending to her sick husband with an opium poppy. Hypnos and Thanatos, the Greek twin gods of sleep and death, are frequently represented with poppy seed heads on
their crowns. Clearly, the Greeks were well aware that the poppy could bring on the sleep of the dead, figuratively and literally. Our fascination with the poppy’s multiple uses continues into modern times. Britain’s Royal College of Anaesthetists depicts poppy seed heads on its coat of arms. Seinfeld’s Elaine misses out on a trip to Nigeria with her boss because she tests opium-positive after eating a poppy seed bagel for breakfast. Even Google reflects our curiosity; do a search for poppy seed and you’ll get more than 1.6 million returns, most of which fit into two categories: how do I use poppy seeds in baking and cooking? And, can I use poppy seeds to get baked and cooked? Customers visit the Kingsway-area Baltyk Bakery to indulge in the nutty crunch of poppy seed rolls, buns and cakes. These products are especially popular with Edmontonians of Polish, Ukrainian, Czech, and Slovakian heritage who are looking for a
18 September October 2016 | The Tomato
nostalgic taste of their mothers’ and grandmothers’ kitchens. “Poppies are very easy to grow in Eastern Europe,” says Kasia Zubik, the Baltyk Bakery’s manager, “almost like weeds. Traditionally, the seeds provided a cheap source of energy to a poor population. Not only that, but they could be stored easily over a long winter.” Each poppy pod contains hundreds, if not thousands, of seeds, so plants are plentiful and their flowers multiply quickly. As a result, Eastern Europeans viewed poppies as a symbol of wellbeing, prosperity and fertility. Perhaps in association with this symbolism, some Polish households invited visitors to compete with one another in poppy seed grinding contests. According to traditional thinking, the winner would be the first to marry. Zubik believes these competitions may have been motivated as much by practicality as symbolism. The preparation of a tasty poppy seed filling still takes a full day: soaking the seeds
Orange Poppy Seed Dressing 1 T
extra-virgin olive oil
2 T fresh lemon juice (about ¼ lemon, juiced) 3 T orange juice (about ½ small orange, juiced) ½ t
grated orange rind
1 t chopped chives or green onion 1 T
poppy seeds
1 T heavy cream or 1 T greek yogurt (optional) sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Whisk together oil and citrus juices until emulsified. Add rind, chives and poppy seeds. Add dairy if you prefer a creamy dressing. Check seasoning and adjust if necessary. Toss with butter lettuce or small cooked beets. Makes about ½ c dressing.
for several hours in hot water; draining them; grinding them into a smooth paste, and mixing in other ingredients such as eggs and sugar before rolling the paste onto the pastry. “So maybe this tradition was just a way to get the hard work of grinding the seeds done a little more quickly,” says Zubik . Lawrence Bliss, owner of Bliss Baked Goods, Edmonton’s only kosher bakery, says that poppy seeds were equally important in Ashkinaze Jewish households of Central Europe. Mohn, the Yiddish word for poppy seed, is related to manna from heaven. “People were poor, they used what they had,” says Bliss. “Poppies regrew quickly, so people associated them with abundance and the belief that God would bring them exactly what they needed.” Poppy seeds also had a number of other advantages in Jewish households. They were a readily available protein source and easily transportable when migration became an unavoidable necessity. Also, unlike meat and dairy, which cannot be served together according to Jewish food law, poppy seeds belong to the neutral food category, which can be eaten with either meat or dairy, adding to their versatility. Bliss’s customers enjoy the flavour and texture of poppy seeds in buns and cakes throughout the year. Purim, a holiday which commemorates the Jews’ deliverance from the evil government official Haman, who planned to annihilate them, provides the occasion for the bakery to make hamantaschen, a pastry-like cookie traditionally filled with poppy seeds. The triangular shape represents Haman’s taschen—his pockets or purse. The poppy seeds have been interpreted variously as symbolizing the taxes Haman collected, or the bribe
money he offered the King of Persia to do away with the Jewish population. Both Bliss and Zubik acknowledge that these traditional cultures were well aware of the poppy seed’s non-food uses. “Life was physically hard and winters were cold,” says Bliss. “Poppy seeds had an analgesic effect, so people could eat them and feel a little better.” Zubik says that Eastern European parents calmed their children by giving them poppy seeds soaked in water with sugar. In pre-Christian Poland, people ate a mixture of mushrooms, honey, and poppy seeds, which they believed would help them to contact the dead. Do Zubik and Bliss have any concerns about eating poppy seeds? Zubik says no; her children eat them all the time with no problem. Bliss’s poppy seed Danish comes with a tongue-in-cheek ‘Don’t Take A Drug Test’ warning, just in case. Which brings us to the second mostasked, poppy-related question. Could eating poppy seeds actually impact a drug test? Sabina Valentine, a registered dietician and U of A lecturer, says that
the answer lies in how thoroughly the seeds have been cleaned during processing. There is no regulation or standardization of this process, meaning the amount of morphine that may still be clinging to even small amounts of poppy seeds could vary country to country. “So, yes, poppy seeds could cause a person to exceed the morphine threshold,” she says. Unlike the ancient Greek Olympians, who ate poppy seeds mixed with honey, today’s athletes are advised not to eat any poppy seed products before competition. While Valentine realizes poppy seeds can be misused, she recommends we focus on their benefits. “They add a nutty taste and interesting texture to food, and they’re a source of polyunsaturated fat, carbohydrates, and dietary fibre.” The key, she says, is “not to eat them in excessive amounts.” Good advice to follow with any food we love, and even better when that food is as complex as the poppy seed. Pamela Young enjoys eating poppy seeds, but only for non-medicinal purposes. magpielearner.com.
The Tomato | September October 2016 19
Fairmont Banff Springs photo
The Castle Culinary Experience What if you went to Banff and never left the hotel? ~ Mary Bailey ~ Banff used to mean hiking and biking in the summer and skiing in the winter. But if you happen to be there during shoulder season with a knee injury, staying in, especially if you are house-bound at the majestic Banff Springs, looks like a more than attractive option. It doesn’t mean you won’t work up an appetite. There’s no lack of stairs, several pools, a fully-equipped gym, fitness classes and walking to and fro on the property. The main event will be what’s to eat.
The Samurai is the oldest restaurant in the hotel, and in the days when the Banff Springs was vacation destination number one for all of Japan, it was twice the size. Now it burbles along, still creating delicious sushi every day presided over by sushi chefs Kaorho Osada and Masa Endo. We order a tasting menu of shrimp and vegetable tempura, light as air; tuna tataki with a citrus soya glaze, a rainbow roll with tuna, yellowtail, salmon, shrimp, and crab, shima aji (Japanese jackfish) and a toothsome sablefish with some sweet caramelization glazing the surface. Bonus: all the fish served is Oceanwise certified. Make sure you leave time before dinner at the 1888 Steakhouse to have a drink with head barkeep Randy Tait. Not only will he serve you some of the most delicious savoury popcorn (flavours change daily) he makes a lovely cocktail. His Negroni is made
Mary Bailey photos
Grapes Wine Bar Cosy, Swiss-Italian inspired, with fellow diners in jolly Nordic sweaters and hiking boots. Enjoy charcuterie and cheese boards along with an excellent selection of wines by glass or bottle. Breads are made in-house (those truffle parmesan sticks are second to none). Cheese selections were Canadian farmhouse, primarily Quebec-made but also Avonlea cheddar from PEI. Several choices of pâté, rillettes, smoked fish, candied nuts and condiments, all
made in the Springs’ kitchens, round out the menu. We’re off to a great start.
Executive Chef JW Foster.
Chef Tyler Thompson, Grapes Wine Bar.
20 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Jennifer Pye-Finch makes parmesan sticks.
Sushi chef Masa Endo at Samurai.
with the Botanist and Amaro Lucano. The ginger pomegranate mohito also looked amazing, but I settled on a flute of Blue Mountain sparkling. It’s devilishly hard to find in wine shops. Now I know why—it’s all at the Banff Springs. Remember those truffled parmesan sticks from Grapes? We are touring the main bakery trying not to drool over those, plus every kind of square and tart you can think of. Then come the chocolates. (The stand-alone chocolate shop is due to open in 2017.) There are 10 kitchens in the Banff Springs Hotel, presided over by the affable executive chef JW Foster, with a food and beverage budget of about $45 million. The hotel will serve 6,0008,000 on a busy summer’s day plus another 4,000 staff meals in The Bean. These kitchens are a hive of focused activity. The largest kitchen takes care of room service, Grapes, the spa, and includes the garde manger (cold kitchen) and pastry. Banquets has their own kitchen with a conveyor that can handle 10,000 meals in 45 minutes. Waldhaus and Stanley’s Smokehouse have their own kitchens. The 1888 Steakhouse has its own kitchen as does the Bow Valley Grill. This is where most guests have breakfast; in summer months about 700 people hit the buffet in the BVG. It is a marvel, even for non-buffet lovers (me). From smoothie shots to just-fried donuts, omelette bar and everything else you could possibly imagine having for breakfast, it is fresh and good. While I was laying down tracks in the buffet line my friend was at the spa. That menu has an intriguing bento box selection based on the elements fire, air and water. The boxes, by the way, include a small indulgence—chocolate cake. Exec chef JW Foster What exec chef Foster is most proud of is the apprenticeship program the Springs now offers to cooks. “When I first came here we had 10 apprentices. Now we have 30. We receive 90-100 applications a year.” The three-year program rotates cooks between 13 restaurants, the butcher shop, garde manger and the pastry shop. Cooks who stay with it (and most do) become accomplished chefs who go on to great
things. “We want them to go on to travel; we have three to the Savoy this year,” he says. “The hotel didn’t do their own butchery when I got here. Now we go through two full animals a month. We need that in order to have our own tomahawk steaks for 1888, which we dry age for 45 days. We also operate a teaching greenhouse and staff do the Banff Farmers’ Market too.” The Stanley’s Smokehouse menu combines well-executed renditions of clubhouse fare (such as a clubhouse sandwich, burgers, fish and chips, nachos and chile) with southern barbecue—St. Louis ribs, smoked brisket, chicken and pulled pork. A better-than-most-golf-clubs wine list, on-tap beer offerings, and a clever cocktail list, including non-alcoholic offerings such as house-made ginger ale and a cucumber soda, round out the offerings. The views, looking down the Bow Valley, are spectacular even on a rainy day. One of my favourite spots on the Spring’s property is the Waldhaus, nestled away in the woods, the original golf course clubhouse. Now the focus is fondue, cheese-based in three flavours: Swiss, smoked cheddar or shaved black truffle and hot oil with beef and vegetables. Or have the wurst plate, an excellent pan-fried trout, choice of schnitzel or a very good striploin. If you have climbed a mountain that day you deserve the Waldhaus experience: a salad followed by the cheese fondue, then the beef, ending with chocolate fondue, all with wine pairings. The pub downstairs serves a very good breakfast which you can tuck into with relish. Keep in mind that if you cannot make the stroll down to the Waldhaus for fondue or to Stanley’s Smokehouse on the golf course, there is a shuttle every 15 minutes. If you miss the last shuttle because you are in the pub, somebody may pick you up in the Lexus. No time like autumn to hit the Springs. Albertans get special rates! fairmont.com Food and wine writer Mary Bailey didn’t spend all her time that weekend eating. There was a bit of drinking too.
The Tomato | September October 2016 21
Meet the 2016 Gold Medal Plates Contenders On October 20, 10 chefs vie for three spots on the podium of the Edmonton Gold Medal Plates competition. Some Gold Medal Plates facts: Chefs must be at the executive chef level or own their own restaurant. Past competitors are always welcome, but newcomers are encouraged to compete. Last year’s champ (Jan Trittenbach) sits out of competition and takes a turn at the judges’ table. The gold medal winner goes on to represent Edmonton at the national Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna next February. Chef Ryan O’Flynn has been Edmonton’s sole podium finish (gold in 2014) at nationals, yet the event here is always the first to sell out. Gold Medal Plates has raised close to $11 million for the Canadian Olympic Foundation. Tickets: goldmedalplates.com.
Bryan Cruz, The Marc “I was raised by my grandmother and my uncles in the Philippines, and I remember watching them, whether it was making the day’s meal, or preparing for Christmas and New Year’s Eve. When we moved to Canada, my first restaurant job was cooking hamburgers while I was in high school. Food has to taste good first, and then it has to look good. Keeping a minimalist approach is something I’m constantly working on.” Bryan’s dish for October 20 involves pork and BC Tree Fruit’s Broken Ladder apple cider.
Steven Brochu, Chartier (Beaumont) “I’m really looking forward to the competition; it’s such a great mix of chefs this year. I am part of a restaurant that has a strong belief system and a tight focus on one style of cuisine, so our dish is a classic Canadian dish—tourtiére. We make it in the restaurant, but we are going to chef’s-table it up. We’ll pair it with a cocktail, either gin or vodka, with all-Alberta ingredients.”
Eric Hanson, Prairie Noodle Shop This is chef Hanson’s first appearance at Gold Medal Plates and probably the first time he’s been in one place long enough to compete. Between stints of travel and working abroad, Eric has been involved with Passion for Pork, Niche, Get Cooking, North 53 and is now settled in at Prairie Noodle.
Geoffrey Caswell-Murphy CCC, Share at the Westin “When our team won bronze in Regina, my exec sous and I came up with the dish at the last possible second. This year we are planning ahead. We have chosen the winery, Red Rooster, but not the wine yet, and we are playing around with something quite different for me—cold instead of hot, with ingredients from all across Canada. We’re thinking pheasant, or perhaps nose to tail, which is difficult for so many chefs.”
Tony Krause, Privada Wine + Tapas (St. Albert) “This is my first time heading up a team for Gold Medal Plates. GMP is a great cause, and it’s nice to support the Canadian culinary scene. I helped a team in Saskatoon, so I have some idea of what it takes. It’s a lot of fun too. The main idea is rockfish, perhaps a terrine, still working it out and we’re still talking about the wine.”
Shane Chartrand, Sage “I have always wanted to do a strong aboriginal dish, and this year I have the team to do it with. The dish is a tribute to the Haida Gwaii— west coast seafood, charcoal smoke with all its earthy flavours, and we’ll be pairing with either Culmina or the new Indigenous World Winery.”
22 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Lindsay Porter, el Cortez El Cortez executive chef Lindsay Porter comes back to GMP after scooping the bronze in her first try. “It’s pretty steep competition this year—I have my work cut out for me.” The dish? “We went to the southern US earlier this year to do research for the menu at our new sister restaurant Have Mercy. There was an amazing dish —a long charcoal-smoked rib—at a place
in Memphis called Rendevous. So I’m heading in that direction—pork, charcoal, smoke to pair with the Hester Creek 2014 Syrah Viognier. “My goal this year (besides winning) is to try more of the other chef’s dishes.” Doreen Prei, Get Cooking Chef Prei won silver at her first Gold Medal Plates and gold at the Canadian Food Championships in the Seafood category. “I visited 50th Parallel Winery this summer and found so many quail living on the property. It’s not so nailed down yet, but 50th Parallel with quail is the direction.” Paul Shufelt, Workshop Eatery Chef Shufelt is our most seasoned competitor, but this is the first time he has entered at the helm of his own restaurant. “We’re planning on duck from Four Whistle Farm and using the whole bird. Confit the neck and legs, use the kidney, heart and liver in a savoury terrine. We are looking at either TH Wines from the Okanagan or Benjamin Bridge from Nova Scotia. “I love the versatility of duck and duck fat. The key is to not overcook it; crisp the skin, and cook it nowhere past medium rare. Duck is funny—if it’s rare it’s chewy, if medium, it’s tough, gotta find the sweet spot.” Emmanuel Theriault, Pack Rat Louie Chef Theriault has an impressive resume, having worked with Martin Picard at Pied de Cochon and Fred Morin and David McMillan at Joe Beef and Liverpool House in his native Quebec. Three years ago he moved to Edmonton to follow his love (his wife) and passion (cooking). Lucky us. “I am making a dish that is usually made with rabbit braised in a strong red wine. Instead we are using bison (probably sous vide) and pairing it with a Sandhill wine. It’s a country dish, and using bison reflects where I live now.”
Need a venue for your Christmas Party? We love parties! Call Rob or Janine for information. @GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228
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5842-111 Street
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780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street
Cibo / chee-bo / noun. Ital. 1 food. 2 a place to eat great Italian food.
OCTOBER 29 780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com • 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square) yo u r ag a . c a / d a n se m ac a b r e
Lunch 11.30 am – 2 pm Tue-Fri • Dinner 5 pm – 10 pm Tue-Sat
From the Archives
The Tomato has published legions of marvellous food stories over the past 20 years. We will share one in each edition over the next year. Enjoy this profile of Teresa Spinelli of the Italian Centre Shop first published in the July August 2006 issue.
TERESA’S JOURNEY Teresa Spinelli, the little girl who played cashier, all grown up.
“I was born into this business;”
says Teresa Spinelli, owner of the Italian Centre Shop (10878 95 Street). “My father opened his store in 1955. My mother Rina was the cashier. We were raised in the store, behind the counter. I took my first steps down the pasta aisle.” Teresa worked as a cashier in high school and in the office during university. “I thought I wanted to be a social worker. But I didn’t like it. I liked being in the store.”
Mary Bailey
“There was no doubt that the business would be taken over by my brother,’ she says. “We were a traditional Italian family. I was supposed to get married and raise a family.” Things didn’t work out that way. Teresa’s brother, Peter, passed away at 32. Just six months later Frank Spinelli, Teresa’s father, paragon of the community, was diagnosed with cancer. “The first year was very difficult. I missed my dad and my brother. I had many long-time employees, many of whom thought of me as the kid who used to play cashier. I was newly married. My middle name became stress.” she says. Many of those long-time employees had witnessed the first steps down the pasta aisle. They were grieving too and not quite ready to accept Teresa in this new role. “My father was an outstanding human being. He won many awards, contributed much to our community and our city. I had very big shoes to fill. No one, including me, was sure that I could do it.”
24 September October 2016 | The Tomato
first printed July August 2006 “I started to gain respect because I worked hard, not just in my office, but on the floor. But I didn’t have the time, the knowledge or the energy I needed to bring our business into the 21st century. We were a multi-million-dollar business and we ran it as if it were a corner store.” Teresa’s education started. She took courses to learn about investments and finance. She joined a business group for support and to learn from other business owners. She hired an HR consultant to help build an organizational chart, develop job descriptions and a good wage strategy. “My dad never had meetings. But I called a meeting because I wanted to put an end to the many rumours about selling the business. I let my employees know I wasn’t going anywhere. I let them know that the decisions I was going to make, not everyone was going to agree with. I was willing to discuss their issues or problems with the changes, but we were going to find the best way to implement the changes. It was going to happen.”
www.themarc.ca
Teresa held a visioning session with key employees. From this, came the idea that Italian Centre Shop would grow with multiple locations. Two years, almost to the day after those meetings, the second store will open at 5028 - 104A Street.
@themarcedmonton
You can tell the seasons by the produce aisles at the Italian Centre Shop. Spring is heralded by the tiny, red-fleshed blood oranges. Then come baby eggplants, glistening like jewels, followed by carciofi (artichokes) with their lovely purple and sage green colouring. The fennel disappears, only to come back more fragrant than ever. Fresh figs announce mid-summer, along with the astounding bounty of field tomatoes and riot of peppers from the Okanagan. Rusty-coloured persimmons, best to eat dead ripe, sit wrapped in their purple and green paper in October, then it’s the chestnuts of winter and the holidays. The store fills with towering stacks of brightly packaged pannetonne; then on to the dove-shaped colombe bread at Easter. It was in the spring, four years ago, that Teresa noticed there were no swings anymore in the park across from the store. “I called the city and they said that the community has to find the money for swings. Well, it was important to me that the park had swings. This is an inner-city park. Those kids have so little to begin with. “Part of the city’s plan is that you have to go around the community and ask everyone what they wanted to see in the park. Our community is so diverse that this simple park project took on a life of its own.” What started as a simple plan to replace the swings became a major revitalization program. The Giovanni Caboto Park now has a large set of swings, a statue of Frank Spinelli playing cards, and the Ortona Edmonton Friendship Fountain, a symbolic replica of the fountain in the town square of Ortona, Italy. It commemorates the Battle of Ortona, fought by members of the Edmonton Loyal Regiment. The original fountain was one of the few structures standing at the end of the 16-day assault. Teresa is a powerful speaker whose eloquence and meaning come from her life as she has lived it. She connects with people in her down-to-earth fashion, telling funny little stories to illustrate her points. She is a passionate, ambitious woman who has taken to the business like a duck to water. She credits her husband Mike for much of her success. They have learned to separate work (he handles the real estate) and their relationship, to make the best of both. I push my cart through the aisles at the soon-to-be-remodeled Italian Centre Shop Number One, and wonder if the new south side store will have half the character. Of course it will. Gioia di vivere doesn’t come from a building, it comes from the lively mix of staff, music and customers of all colours, ages and genders that sum up the Italian Centre experience. I reckon I’ll still be arguing about the amount of brine in the olives or requesting the other goat cheese ‘the one you keep in the back’ for decades to come, on both sides of the river. “I consider myself very fortunate to have had the privilege to inherit a good, healthy business,” says Teresa. “I know now that I am not living my dad’s life. I’m living my life, and I’m excited about the future.”
A Sensory Experience! THE SHOPS AT BOUDREAU | ST. ALBERT, ALBERTA #109 150 BELLEROSE DR. | HICKSFINEWINES.COM | 780-569-5000
B I S T R O 76
Fine Italian comfort food. BISTRO76.COM 11214 - 76 AVE NW 780 . 800 . 1976
The Tomato | September October 2016 25
FOOD STAGE Friday, October 21 2pm Steve Buzak, Royal Glenora Club Steve Buzak wears two hats at the Royal Glenora Club; he is the executive chef, and the director of food and beverage. His training includes NAIT and Vancouver’s Dubrulle Culinary School; his cooking experience ranges from the Rocky Mountaineer to running resort hotel kitchens. We love chef Buzak’s generous attitude towards his community; he features local suppliers in his menu offerings; he is a Gold Medal Plates competitor; he cooks at Capital Care’s Feast on the Field. He is also a champion ice carver. 3pm Ayumi Yuda, Ikki Izakaya “I’m doing this Japanese pub thing in Edmonton to show Japanese culture, and I’m doing the Tomato Stage at the Home Show to explain sushi. What is the difference between an izakaya and a sushi bar? An izakaya is a Japanese pub. In Japan an izakaya is about 80 per cent drinking, 20 per cent eating, whereas a restaurant is the opposite. People in Alberta like to drink—when I’m working I’m not drinking, but sometimes when I clock out I can drink too. I must have got the drinking genetics from my father.” 4pm Jimmy Shewchuk, Sandwich & Sons Jimmy Shewchuk is one half of the duo that created Sandwich & Sons, its first location in the industrial northwest end of the city. Now they have an outpost downtown, which makes sandwich lovers deliriously happy. House-made condiments and pickles along with inspiring meats make each sandwich a sublime craft experience. 5pm Rob Filipchuk & Darcy Radies, The Glass Monkey Rob Filipchuk, the owner of Edmonton’s casual Glass Monkey, and Darcy Radies, the executive chef, show us how to coax flavour from the simplest ingredients. Chef Radies, who operated the The Blue Pear for 10 years, understands how to take favourite familiar dishes into extraordinary territory. That, coupled with Rob’s wine saavy, delivers a unique dining experience at the Glass Monkey.
6:30pm Cocktail Combat featuring Brandon Baker, Have Mercy & Tyler Gushaty, North 53 Tyler and Brandon go shaker to shaker preparing three signature cocktails for the judging panel. Each restaurant will also prepare a sampler plate for up to 50 people in the reserved seating. Cash bar on site, and the area will be reserved for this presentation only. Get your tickets early: edmontonfallhomeshow.com
26 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Saturday, October 22 12pm Tony Le, Century Hospitality Group Chef Le’s formal culinary education was at NAIT, but he credits following his mom around the kitchen for his early inspiration. Now as corporate chef of the Century Hospitality Group, he inspires his team to exceed their guests’ expectations with beautiful, playful and delicious food meant to create warm and lasting memories. 1pm Shannon Reid & Rosalie Rheume, Crave Cupcakes Shannon is the atore manager and Rosalie is their head baker. Crave Cupcakes was started by two sisters from Alberta who wanted to share their passion for baking. Their sweet, simple, baked products taste amazing and are made from real ingredients. 2pm Levi Biddlecomb, Attila The HUNgry Food Truck NAIT-trained Red Seal chef Levi Biddlecomb is best known for Duck Tots, a toothsome Asian-inspired riff on poutine: Thai-braised duck leg with deep-fried tater tots, hoisin aioli and Srirachi with lime. Levi’s training includes several years at the celebrated Le Beaujolais in Banff, Edmonton’s Lux and Zinc at the AGA. This is chef Biddlecomb’s second time on the Tomato stage. “I love competing, I like being on stage, I like the attention.” His next move is a bricks and mortar resto. Stay tuned! 3pm Matt Phillips & Andrew Cowan, Northern Fried Chicken One of chef Cowan’s favourite things is pork and the other, fried chicken. Chef Cowan took silver at the 2014 Gold Medal Plates with his perfect slice of house-made ham and, later this year, opens a fried chicken joint called Northern Chicken with his good friend chef Matt Phillips. “We love fried chicken,” says Matt.
Sunday, October 23 12pm Peter Keith, Highlands Golf Club Peter Keith has the Red Seal certification from NAIT, where he competed at over 15 events worldwide, winning gold at the 2012 Culinary Olympics. Besides cooking at HGC, chef Keith teaches at Metro Education and is co-owner of the soon-tobe-opened Meuwly’s Charcuterie and Preserves. “I’m excited about the direction the food is taking at Highlands. We make our own burger patties, dressings, some of the sausages and I want to showcase that.”
Sunday, October 23, cont’d 1pm Tomato Pro-Am featuring chefs Shane Chartrand, Sage & Doreen Prei, Get Cooking Seasoned competitors Shane Chartrand and Doreen Prei face off in the first annual Tomato Pro-Am. Chef Prei is a Michelinstar trained chef from Germany who won silver at her first Gold Medal Plates Championship and gold at the 2015 Canadian Food Championships, Seafood. Shane Chartrand hails from Alberta, has stood on the podium in Gold Medal Plates competition several times, appeared on Chopped Canada and is a Cook It Raw chef. Want to be their amateur partner? Send a tweet, facebook or instagram message with the hashtag #tomatoproam, or tomatoproam@thetomato.ca.
frisée or flambé? Follow us on Snapchat for exclusive content and offers. To follow The Tomato Food & Drink just open the Snapchat app, point the camera at the ghost then tap it. Or you can enter our username tomatofooddrink.
3pm Parag Singh, Wildflower Grill Chef Singh’s resume includes Miami’s Four Diamond VIX and top-notch hotels all over Canada. Now he brings a global (European, Indian, Thai and central Asian) culinary approach to Wildflower’s signature Canadian progressive cuisine. One thing he never forgets; “the trick is for food to always taste as good as it looks,” says chef Singh. 4pm Nelvin Reyes, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse Chef Reyes Nelvin is looking to showcase the flavours of Brazil with two traditional foods, their gluten-free cheese bread (pão de queijo) made with tapioca and full-flavoured black bean stew (feijoada). “Being on the cooking stage gives me the chance to interact with people, see the smiles when they try the food.”
5pm Mariel Montero and Humberto Hernandez, Huma Mexican Restaurant Mariel Montero and Humberto Hernandez met in their home town of Puebla, the spiritual home of mole. Both have travelled, working in kitchens around the globe, and Mariel was a Chopped Canada contestant before opening Huma. “In Mexico you want to go to a place where it feels friendly and you can have good food every day. That was our goal with Huma. We’ll be making a Mexican comfort food dish which is, essentially, Mexican lasagna made with tortillas.” 6pm Daniel Huber, Malt and Mortar Chef Daniel Huber loves bourbon, pop-ups and southern food, not necessarily in that order. Chef Huber is working on the newest addition to the Whyte Avenue landscape, the 250seat gastropub called Malt and Mortar as well as upcoming Louisiana-style pop-ups with live music. “Bourbon has amazing food affinity, from salad dressing right on through to dessert.”
www.wusthof.ca Experience the WÜSTHOF difference at a retailer near you: The Pan Tree 550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park
Hendrix Condon Barr 11935 145 St. Edmonton
The Tomato | September October 2016 27
The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Mary Bailey, publisher, The Tomato Food & Drink In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album. Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist. Mary Bailey started The Tomato Food & Drink (then called City Palate, the flavour of Edmonton’s food scene) in 1996. She wanted to explore and celebrate the people who were creating our food culture—the chefs, the cooks, the farmers, the restaurauters, the merchants and the diners. She wanted to write those stories and thought people would like to read them. It’s been quite a ride. Along the way Mary co-founded the local food event Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine in 2000 and started Edmonton’s first Slow Food convivia in 2002. She is also the creator of the Relish Food on Film Festival, called one of Alberta’s Top 10 Food Festivals by Alberta Culture. She is a board member of the Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance (ACTA) and was co-chair of the Edmonton Food Council. These are all volunteer pursuits. She wrote two books about Alberta food with Judy Schultz, The Food Lover’s Trail Guide to Alberta, Volumes I & II. In order to understand winemakers and growers better she continued a lifelong pursuit of wine knowledge. She has pruned vines, picked grapes and tasted wine on five continents. Mary holds the Wines & Spirits Trust (WSET) Diploma, is a certified sommelier (International Sommelier Guild, Diploma) and has certifications in Spanish and French wine. Accolades include being named a 2015 Global Woman of Vision and awarded a GALA (Growing Alberta Leadership Award) for community spirit in 2007. Now, 20 years later, her commitment to local food and drink remains undiminished.
28 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Hometown? Kingston, Ontario. Years in food and drink? All my working life. Where would you like to live? Edmonton is terrific, yet a landscape of vine-covered hills and the sea is so compelling. Your favourite food and drink? Something grilled fresh from the sea with a minerally white wine. A glass of Champagne, always. What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking? I would be a sports reporter. What do you most appreciate in your friends? A sense of humour. Loyalty. It’s nice to know your friends have your back and vice versa. Your favourite qualities in a dish? Balance. A cook? Discipline and drive but also a little wooliness. I find the best chefs have a wild side and are at times a bit excessive (like me). A wine? Balance. Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)? I had dinner with some amazing German winemakers last year; would love to do that again; Lily Bollinger, the widow Cliquot, Helen Masters and some Canadian wine women I hold in high regard, Sandra Oldfield, Trudy Heiss, Severine Pinte, Heidi Noble and Natalie Bonhomme. Who would cook? My mum, Julia Child, Madame Benoit, Rose Gray.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse? I can’t say them here. Current culinary obsession/exploration? Uccellino’s spaghetti bottarga. I can’t get it out of my head. Meaningful/crazy cooking experience? Probably Cook it Raw. That was just a tiny bit insane. I love what’s happening right now in our food scene. Cooks are talking to farmers; people are making beer! Lots of people are going for it, opening independent restaurants, and Edmontonians are going right there with them. It’s all one crazy fun mix, and I love it. Best thing that ever happened to you? I have been so fortunate: every day I’m inspired by the food and wine people I’ve met. Getting my Wine & Spirits Trust Diploma (WSETLevel 4) in 2012 was a big deal. Also being awarded with a Gala back in 2007 and being named a Global Women of Vision last year—I am grateful for the acknowledgement. Mentors? Writing two books with Judy Schultz was like getting a master’s degree in writing. Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food? My work involves a lot of eating and drinking, so sometimes I just want an apple. Philosophy? Stay curious. Be kind. What’s next? We have had a great run in print and will continue to do so. I love the immediacy of social media, the idea that you can have a conversation, it’s exciting. We are starting on Snapchat this month. Follow us @tomatofooddrink!
you say,
tomato we say,
gin! 780-455-4556
11819 St. Albert Trail | sherbrookeliq uor.com
The Tomato | September October 2016 29
Nourishing Entertainment! Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video. metrocinema.org
Angry Inuk
Dreamspeakers Premiere: September 28 Encore: October 27 - 30 Inuit director Alethea Arnaquq-Baril joins a new tech-savvy generation of Inuit as they challenge long-established perceptions of seal hunting.
Abbas Kiarostami Tribute
Taste of Cherry - September 4 & 5 Certified Copy - September 11 & 12 Abbas Kiarostami (1940-2016) was an Iranian filmmaker whom many believe to be not only amongst the best from Iran, but also one of the best filmmakers of his era.
Eva Hesse - Art Docs
September 7 @ 7:00PM Documentary feature film focusing on the life and times of Eva Hesse, a ground-breaking artist who was active in New York and Germany in the 1960’s.
Metro Cinema at the Garneau
Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:
8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org
Pumpkin
Flan Mixture
Continued from page 15
1 can 400 mL, coconut milk, cream only (put can in fridge to separate water from cream)
heat white wine and reduce by ¼. Add spinach purée and simmer until a saucelike consistency is reached. Finish by whisking in cream. Take off heat. To serve: after gnocchi has been boiled and drained, heat a large pan with olive oil. Place gnocchi in pan and fry until golden. Add spinach purée and toss to coat the gnocchi. Place in pasta bowl. Grate Cheesiry’s aged pecorino over and sprinkle with toasted pine nuts. Serves 6.
Spiced Pumpkin Flans Shannon Minor, executive sous chef, el Cortez
Caramel (can be made ahead of time) 2 c granulated sugar 1 c water 3
oranges, zested and juiced
Place ovenproof 4-oz ramekins in a shallow pan. Using a stainless-steel pot with a tight-fitting lid, bring all ingredients to a boil. Leaving the lid on will prevent crystallization of the caramel. Once mixture is boiling, lower to a medium heat and cook until amber in colour. Check often as the caramel burns easily. Once caramel is ready, pour carefully into ramekins, one at a time. Tip ramekins to coat bottom and sides, pouring any excess caramel back into pot. If caramel starts to harden, warm over low heat. Set aside to harden.
Pumpkin Mixture 4 lb fresh sugar pumpkin, peeled and roasted, seeds set aside ¼ c
butter
1 sml piece
fresh ginger, grated
1 T
ground cinnamon
¼ t
ground nutmeg
¼ t
ground cloves
pinch salt
Melt butter with ginger and spices, cook until butter is browned. Mix with 2 cups of the roasted pumpkin. Puree until smooth. Set aside.
30 September October 2016 | The Tomato
1½ c whipping cream ½ c
sugar
1½ t
vanilla (preferably Mexican)
5
egg yolks
3
whole eggs
Preheat oven to 300°F, with a rack in the middle position. Heat coconut cream, whipping cream, sugar and vanilla over medium heat, until mixture is at a gentle boil. Whisk to ensure sugar is completely dissolved. Take off heat. Whisk eggs and yolks in a bowl until frothy. Temper egg mix by whisking in the hot cream mixture, a small ladleful at a time. When egg mix is warm to touch, mix in remaining cream and whisk thoroughly. Combine with pumpkin mixture, stirring until completely combined. Line a medium-sized strainer with a double layer of cheesecloth, and place in bowl. Carefully pour flan mixture into cheesecloth, gathering the ends and twisting them to push mixture through. Keep twisting until all liquid is forced out. Cool over an ice bath or in the fridge. Assembly: Once flan mixture is cool, fill caramelized ramekins ¾ full. Carefully pour hot water into shallow pan, until flans are two-thirds submerged. Bake until set (the centres should be firm), 45-60 minutes, rotating pans halfway through. Garnish with coconut whipping cream and candied pumpkin seeds, if desired. Makes 6 flans.
10816 Whyte Avenue
kentofinglewood.com
@kentofinglewood
Two doors down from Knifewear.
10820 Whyte Avenue
knifewear.com
@knifewearyeg
Two doors down from Kent of Inglewood.
Kitchen Sink wine tastings, happenings and events Italian Centre Shop’s Southside (5028 104A Street) is 10 years old and they are having a party, Saturday, September 10, 11am. Food sampling and demos, bocce, soccer, music, dancing, and yes, there will be cake. Tastings at Hicks Fine Wines (109-150 Bellerose Drive, St. Albert, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines.com) begin Friday, September 16, with Touring the Okanagan, BC VQA Tasting, 7pm, $50; Thursday, October 6, Taylor Fladgate Port Tasting, 7pm, $40 and Thursday October 20, Penfolds Tasting, 7pm, $30. Enjoy the bar pour Fridays from 3pm-6pm and Saturdays from 2pm-5pm starting September 9. Experience five Burgundian-inspired courses with wines to suit at the Joseph Drouhin Winemakers Dinner, Wednesday, October 26 at the Mayfair Golf & Country Club. Special guest is the affable and witty Laurent Drouhin. Tickets, $60+gst, call 780-391-8414. Love port? Want to know more? Experience the Taylor Properties Port Tasting with brand ambassador Cindy Opsal at Crestwood Fine Wines (9658 142 Street, 780-488-7800, crestwoodfinewines.com) October 5, 7pm, $40. Call to book. Fall tastings at Aligra (Entrance 58, WEM, 780-4831083, aligrawineandspirits.com): Tuesday, September 13, Winopedia, Fundamentals of Wine, 7pm, $40; Tuesday, October 18, Viva Italia, from Prosecco to Cannonau, 7pm, $35. Tix: aligrawineandspirits.com. Enjoy a fabulous dinner as Jason Oliver (Farm to Fork Eatery) and Kevin Gall (Joey Sherwood) go head-tohead in a black box challenge for charity at the Mayor’s Battle of Strathcona Chefs 2016, Festival Place, 100 Festival Way, Sherwood Park, Wednesday, October 19. Appetizers and wine, 6pm, dinner, 7pm. Proceeds to culinary arts scholarships and the Strathcona Food Bank. Tickets, $125, Festival Place box office, 780-449-3378. Come early for dinner or stay later for a drink and watch the city roll by at the SmashArt Painting Events at La Ronde (Chateau Lacombe Hotel, 10111 Bellamy Hill, 780-428-6611, chateaulacombe.com) on September 19, October 17 and November 21. Tickets, smashart.com. Get up to some Monkey Business at the Glass Monkey (5842 111 Street, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) on September 22 and October 27 and enjoy five courses paired with wine, $89. Call Rob or Janine at 780-7602228 to book. The Glass Monkey is also taking bookings for holiday parties. 32 September October 2016 | The Tomato
Two chances to experience a lively night of great wine and storytelling with Yalumba’s Jane Ferrari, on September 21 at The Continental Treat (10560 82 Avenue, 780-433-7432, ctfinebistro.com), $100. On September 22 at The Harvest Room at the Fairmont Hotel Macdonald, (10065 100 Street, 780-429-6424, fairmont.com) $95+gg. Enjoy four courses with wine to suit at the Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné Wine Dinner at The Alberta Hotel Bar and Kitchen (9802 Jasper Avenue, 780-760-0062, albertahotelbarkitchen.com) Monday, October 3, guest speaker Arnauld Trouve. Tickets, $50, 780-760-0062. Get on your bike and take a Foodie Bike Tour September 10. Stops include Highlands Golf Course and Nourish. Tickets: $99, foodbiketour.com. Don’t miss Lit Fest, October 13-23. Highlights include the Top10 Soirée at Latitiude 53 and For Love of Money: Ten Years of Food Writing in YEG. All the details at litfestalberta.org. Love bubbles? Don’t miss the Taittinger Champagne Dinner with special guest Mikael Falkman at Ernest’s Restaurant (NAIT) October 20, 780-471-8676, $95. Edmonton Oktoberfest features local craft and authentic Bavarian brews, delicious beer-friendly food, festive Oktoberfest music from the German Knights Band, dancers and games, September 30 and October 1. Tickets: albertabeerfestivals.com. Cheer on your favourite team of first responders and raise money for the Kid’s with Cancer Society at the Pan Tree’s Chili Cook Off, September 17. Tickets, The Pan Tree (220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca). #BaconDay2016 is Saturday, September 10 at The Workshop Eatery (2003 91 Street SW, 780-705-2205, theworkshopeatery.com). Tickets $90, with 100 per cent of ticket sales going to YESS (Youth Emergency Shelter Society). The goal? $25K. Tickets: eventbrite.ca. It’s not to soon to be thinking holiday parties. Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704 kitchenbybrad.ca) offers intimate bespoke dining—a minimum of 12 people during the week, up to a maximum of 20 people for a sit-down dinner, or up to 28 people for substantial grazing. Three-course lunches from $50pp. Call 780-757-7704 to book.
If you are new to a gluten-free diet, Kinnikinnick Fresh (10940-120 Street, 780-424-2900, kinnikinnick.com) is the place for you for information and education. Chef Lori Grein will be offering a selection of comfort food and harvest-time favourites to try and recipe cards to take home on September 22, 23, 29, 30 from 10am -1pm.
product news Tastes of the season at Cobs: Try the pumpkin scone with pumpkin puree, a cream cheese icing and caramel drizzle; or the pumpkin tart, like your very own individual pumpkin pie. Scones are available at all Cobs locations September 1, tarts by September 22, both until November 9 only. The big new Duchess Provisions (10934 119 Street, 780-705-3344, duchessprovisions.com) offers plenty of room to stock treasures for the gastronomically obsessed, esoteric things like candied rose petals and more everyday items cooks need, such as two sizes of offset spatulas. All in all, Provisions is an incredible resource for people who love food. The Holland Plaza development is shaping up to be a lively gastronomic destination, with the Local Omnivore, the Wine Gallery and Cafe Linnea as well as the Kinnickinnick store across the street. Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com) Check out the new menu inspired by a summer trip to Italy. Dishes like fedelini—tiger prawns with fresh lemon, sundried tomato pangrattato and bottarga offer a sublime taste of the ocean. The Newget Kompany will be at the City Market Downtown on 104 Street on September 10, 17, 24 and October 1, 8. We are looking forward to the return of our favourite seasonal Newget, the Perfect Pear, such a delicious combination of dried pear, pistachios, rosemary, roasted almonds and creamy white chocolate. Find the delicious tarts and other baked goods by Dauphine Bakery at both the City Market and the 124 Street Grand Market until October 8, but the main location on 104 Street is closed. We hope to see them reopen and wish Linda Kearney, Paul Bumanis and their staff encouragement through the transition. Check out the spacious new look at Bonjour Bakery (8608 99 Street, 780-433-5924), all the better for a more comfortable Saturday lineup. Check out the online Cavern Gift Catalogue and give the gift of eating well. Or visit the shop at 10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca.
what’s new and notable presents
cooking classes and tours The Pan Tree (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-4644631, thepantree.ca) has an amazing demonstration kitchen that will be put to good use this fall. Highlights: September 13, Pasta with chef Cherwoniak; September 14, Riverbend Gardens CSA with chef Toll; September 28; Adobos and Moles with chef Alvarez; October 11, Sausage with chef Toll; October 18, It’s Pizza Time with chef Cherwoniak. Tight on time? Take an Express Cooking Classes at Seasoned Solutions: October 5, Sides for Thanksgiving; November 23, Holiday Entertaining. Classes are two hours long starting at 6:30pm, $49.94+gst, seasonedsolutions.ca. Take an Edmonton Food Tour with Liane Faulder and Cindy Lazarenko every Saturday from September 3 until October 8. The 104th Street Feast kicks off at 10am with a bountiful Ukrainian breakfast at Kitchen by Brad, followed by an exploration of the City Market’s food stands and a peek at other food stops nearby, $115. It’s bound to be lively and fun and chock-full of good food. Visit edmontonfoodtours.com to book. The Cavern Cheese School will be back in session beginning late September. Class themes include: Wine and Cheese Pairing Fundamentals for all levels, Regional Pairings, Wine and Cheese Pairings for Entertaining and, back by popular demand, Cavern Champagne Cheese School. At the Cavern, 10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca.
restaurant buzz Uccellino is in the running for Enroute’s Best New Restaurant. Chef Chris Hyde’s intrepretation of classic Roman flavours with seasonal Alberta ingredients is a winner by all standards. Fans were asked to vote for their favourite over the summer; no word yet if Uccellino made the cut. Fingers crossed.
Love breakfast and brunch? Get yourself down to the new Cafe Linnea (10932 119 Street, 780-758-1160) The cured arctic char and blini are sublime and high tea is offered on Sundays. The 60seat café is part of the bigger Duchess footprint (a teaching kitchen, proper office space and an expanded Provisions) in Holland Plaza, home to the Local Omnivore and the Wine Gallery. Bar Clementine (11957 Jasper Avenue, barclementine.ca) is open! Andrew Borley, Jordan Clemens, and Evan Watson (the Volstead Act) have created an intimate, Paris bistro-style hang out, and chef Roger Letourneau’s Gallicinspired menu is just the thing heading into crisp days of fall. With the opening of Clementine, West Jasper is becoming a gastronomic destination with a trio of fun spots to duck into, including Ikki Izakaya and Japonais Bistro.
2016 GRAND TASTING HALL Friday Evening 5 - 10 pm Saturday Afternoon 12 - 4 pm Saturday Evening 6 - 10 pm
Indulge ...
ALBERTA’S LARGEST SELECTION OF FINE WINE, PREMIUM SPIRITS, QUALITY BEER & GOURMET FOOD
EDMONTON
Nov. 4 - 5 Shaw Conference Centre
Proudly supporting the Edmonton and Wood Buffalo Food Banks, as well as the NAIT culinary school. Please enjoy your beverages responsibly. Minors are not permitted.
PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS TODAY! rockymountainwine.com
Chef Nathin Bye has sold his shares in Ampersand 27 and is on hiatus pondering his next move. Whatever it is, it’ll taste good—he’s a talented chef. Bistro Praha (10117 101 Street, 780-424-4218) invites you to join them for a Tartare Experience—their classic filet mignon steak tartare with avocado tartare and tuna tartare—every Friday night in September and October. The full menu is also available along with their specialized list of imported beer and wine. Open late, seven days a week, right downtown, just north of Jasper Avenue. Call for reservations.
Coming soon At least one of Ben Staley’s storefront restaurants on Jasper Avenue; Baiju, Kevin Cam’s new bar/speakeasy/supper club in the Mercer; a charcuterie shop called Meuwly’s; a fried chicken joint called Northern Chicken and Malt and Mortar on Whyte Avenue and 104 Street. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca. The Tomato | September October 2016 33
According to Judy
Judy Schultz
Gatherings
1996: Motorola introduces the flip phone;
Macarena by Los Del Rio is Billboard’s #1 song; Donovan Bailey wins gold at the Olympics; Mel Gibson’s Braveheart wins Best Picture, and
Hardware Grill’s Beef Tenderloin with Goat Cheese Crust was $20
2016: Help us celebrate 20 years of great food.
From September 19 to October 21, Hardware Grill invites you to enjoy a selection of original menu items at original 1996 prices.* *Limited quantities available, not available for groups of 8 or more.
16 consecutive Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence 16 consecutive years listed in Where to Eat in Canada www.hardwaregrill.com • 780.423.0969 • 97 Street & Jasper Avenue CHEF’STABLE INTHE KITCHEN • PRIVATE CONFERENCE ROOM
34 September October 2016 | The Tomato
The end-of-July appearance of the giant plastic snowman in the local Costco made it official: winter will come. Far too soon, it’ll be time to retire the barbecue. As we entered the second half of the year, I realized that this is probably my favourite season…the feasting season. Suddenly it’s all about getting together, while there’s still time. As summer winds down, our collective celebrations heat up, and we need to grab them while we can. We gather around tables with friends, family or total strangers; in city stadiums, in farmer’s fields, in churches and community halls. The kick-starter this year was possibly the quirky, secretdestination diner en blanc, with everyone wearing white clothes and waving white napkins (don’t ask). And it only gets better. So is it the scent of fallen leaves, the crackle of autumn fires, the bundles of sunflowers or the earlier-falling darkness that promotes these joyful huddles? As fall closes in, entire communities are suddenly moved to set up big, convivial tables. In Alberta, these long-table reunions happen on small-town main streets with farm-to-fork themes and local cooks showcasing local crops. If feasts in the fields aren’t your thing, there are beef dinners, pyrohy suppers, game dinners and our soon-to-be-celebrated Canadian Thanksgiving, when everybody but the local turkey population has reason to celebrate. The seasonal harvest of root vegetables and game birds makes me want to open
a bottle of Pinot Noir and glug half of it into a huge, slow-simmering stew while contentedly swilling the other half. Our big collective meals are more than snacky brown-baggers. They’re full-on celebrations in search of a crowd, and the older I get, the more important the gatherings become. Now is the time to break out the generous potluck dishes we remember from way back; food for all, enough to feed everybody who comes through the door. We had such a gathering recently, in our kitchen, with 47 members of my family lining up to fill their plates. They sat wherever they could because, outside, the rain was bucketing down. The youngest guest at the feast was five weeks old; the eldest will be 103 in October. Two huge roasts, a lot of chicken and many bottles of wine later, the noise level was just below a screech. Me? I was counting my blessings. Friends, family, enough to eat, so much to talk about, so much to be remembered. It was proof positive that gatherings like this among friends or family are timeless and not to be taken lightly. As members of the human race, imperfect and troubled though we are, we need to spend more time gathered around tables, breaking bread together. Find that old tureen and stir up a vat of soup, dig out the platter in case there’s a turkey, sharpen the carving knives. Check your weapons at the door. We have much to celebrate. Judy loves to cook for a crowd. writer@judyink.ca
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