The Tomato July August 2015 by Tomato

Take a bite of your city | July August 2015 | thetomato.ca

Alberta chefs cook it raw Grilling with the House of Q Tomato Kitchen Design Award winners

From left to right: runnersup Janice and Russel Smella, SmellaQue, Calgary, Alberta. Grand prize winners Scott and Gisele Chomos, Arrowhead North BBQ, White City, Saskatchewan.

! ou y k n a Th

The Porkapalooza BBQ Festival was a big hit because you, your family and friends all came out to have fun and enjoy some great food in the park. Congratulations to the Porkapalooza BBQ Festival Grand Prize winner Gisele and Scott Chomos, Arrowhead North BBQ, White City, Saskatchewan.

Alberta Pork thanks all partners, sponsors, supporters and smoke loving volunteers for helping us make the second Porkapalooza BBQ Festival a success. We look forward to seeing you all next year for a bigger and better Porkapalooza.

Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Contents Features

Publisher BGP Publishing

Copy Editor Don Retson

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Caroline Barlott Giselle Courteau Judy Schultz

Illustration/Photography Mary Bailey Ian Grant Photography Kevan Morin, Curtis Comeau Photography Merle Prosofsky Photography Wayne Ritchey Photography Michael Shandro, Shandro Photo Paul Thurlin, Edge Photography

Advertising Sales

Winning kitchens | Mary Bailey

10 12 14

Distribution For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802

A Recipe for Indulgence Celebrating 15 years of Indulgence | Mary Bailey

Down Highway 13 Take a summer road trip east | Mary Bailey

Oh Canada! Wines What to drink this summer | Mary Bailey

Giselle Courteau Bakes Pies Tips and tricks from the duchess of pie | Giselle Courteau

Design and Prepress

Greenline Distribution

Grilling with the House of Q The secret to championship ribs

Departments

Bossanova Communications Inc.

Printer

Alberta Chefs Cook It Raw Chefs seek to create iconic dishes | Mary Bailey

John Quark

PrintWest Communications

TKDA Winners

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Beer Guy Beer and bikes | Peter Bailey

Feeding People Crunching on crickets | Caroline Barlott

Drinks The art of the cocktail | a photo essay by Kevan Morin

28 32

Wine Maven Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

According to Judy New Orleans: it ain’t that easy | Judy Schultz

Cover photo: Grilling with the House of Q’s cheese-stuffed bacon-wrapped hot dogs

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The Tomato | July August 2015 3

10643 123 St.

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Great food is your pleasure.

Great pairings are our business.

9658 - 142 St. NW Edmonton . t ood n n . om

Dish

gastronomic happenings around town may the best cook win!

chopped!

the end of an era The unheardof restaurant has closed after 35 years in business. Not only does it take skill, bravery and a bit of craziness to be in the restaurant business at all, but to be in it for 35 years—these folks deserve a medal. The building has been sold and it’s soon to be a law oﬃce. Wondering how you will survive without chef/owner Lynn Heard’s bisque? Join the bisque list at unheardof.com.

“The Chopped experience is crazy,” says Dave Omar, executive chef, Zinc. “They did a full day of taping here at Zinc, at my house, and then the studio.” The latest version of chef Omar’s jellyroll chicken is on Zinc’s summer menu—jellyroll chicken wing with a parsnip and carrot coleslaw. “The hardest thing is to keep it all under wraps,” Dave says, referring to the time lag between taping and airing. Would he do it again? Yes! “I would love the opportunity to do another show.” Watch Dave Omar’s episode 23, Rib N’ Roll: foodnetwork.ca. Paul Thurlin, Edge Photography

Love to cook? Love to compete? Enter the Canadian Food Championships. The competition July 21-25 is open to both pros and talented amateur cooks. Lindsay Porter, Doreen Prei, Cecilia Hoang, Anil Buddhi, Daniel Ducharme, Dean Gossen, Rodney Khoo, Roberto Laqui, Tu Le, Gabi Marin, Nathan McLaughlin, Erin Mueller, Lauren Scheit, and Pawanjit Singh are some of the pros in the arena. Winners move on to the World Food Championships in Florida in November. With over $50,000 in cash and prizes on the line it promises to be a lively competition.

Michael Shandro, Shandro Photo

the culture of food Food culture was front and centre during the opening of the National Congress on Culture, held in May at The Art Gallery of Alberta. Members of the Alberta Ate Chef Collaborative (chefs Shane Chartrand, Sage; Joao Dachery, Pampa; Josh Dissanayake, North 53; Edgar Gutierrez, Tres Carnales; Evert Maris, Get Cooking Edmonton; Lino Oliveira, Sabor and David Omar, Zinc) welcomed delegates with delicious food along with samplings of Alberta’s first craft spirits from Eau Claire Distillery. Alessandro Porcelli, founder of Cook it Raw, introduced the Alberta Cook it Raw experience, which will continue this September in Kananaskis.

Pampa’s cheerful new patio has a new à la carte afternoon menu with individual skewers (shrimp, vegetables, rumpsteak) cheese platters and small plates. What a wonderful spot to spend some time with a freshly shaken caipirinhina or glass of sangria. The traditional rodizio (service on a skewer) is always available for lunch and dinner. A nice touch—heat lamps. Look for the lively yellow patio umbrellas, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, 9929 109 Street, 780-756-7030 pampasteakhouse.com.

Top: Alessandro Porcelli meets Carolyn Campbell, Deputy Minister of Culture and Tourism. Middle: Dave Omar behind the line at ZINC.Bottom: Ryan O’Flynn and Jamie Salé.

Gold Medal Plates photo

patio lanterns

dig it at dig in Mark your calendars for St Albert’s Dig In Horticulinary Festival October 1-3, the festival that merges horticulture and culinary into a celebration of eating, growing and staying local. The action begins Thursday, October 1 with a culinary walking tour of the Perron District and continues until Saturday with high-energy interactive cooking, composting and winter gardening sessions. On Friday, October 2, enjoy the Dig in Chef ’s Collaborative Gala Dinner, with a fantastic lineup of chefs participating: Andrew Cowan (Packrat Louie), J.W. Foster (Fairmont Banﬀ Springs), Danielle Job (Holt Renfrew Café), Tony Krause (The Salt Room), Rino Lam (Nineteen) and Brad Lazarenko (Culina). Discover the full program, purchase tickets or watch the video to get a taste of Dig In, at diginstalbert.ca.

doing it old school Chef Ryan O’Flynn is on a roll. The Canadian Culinary Gold Medal champion not only has a fine new ride, he has completely revamped the menu at Share in the Westin Hotel. There was a time you wouldn’t be caught dead in a hotel dining room. Not any more. Chef O’Flynn’s menu is über-Canadian. “I’d say it’s 90 per cent Canadian, with about 60 per cent of the ingredients coming from Alberta,” Ryan says on the phone from N.W.T. where he is foraging for morels. Those morels will be pickled, dried and otherwise put away to be used all year long. “We have a lot of game and foraged things on the menu. We are going back to how people used to do things—how did settlers cook it? How did the Aboriginals? For example we’re curing bison in birch sap collected by a guy in the Yukon who runs around by himself tapping wild trees. When he gets to the nearest town he Fed-Exes it out.” The space has undergone a refresh and reopens July 16, Share Restaurant, Westin Edmonton, 10135 100 Street, 780-426-3636, westin.com/Edmonton.

The Tomato | July August 2015 5

e D n e h c t i K TKDA T

The Tomato Food and Drink Kitchen Design Awards

d o o to F

a m o T e Th

A n g i s De Ian Grant Photography

n e h c t Ki

n i r &D

Residential New Build First Place: Habitat Studio

Residential Renovations First Place:

Second Place:

Revington Renovations

Aquarian Renovations

This kitchen possessed undesirable impediments often found in older kitchens—the closed-in feeling due to poor lighting and a non-functional layout with plenty of wasted space. The goal was to revive the kitchen’s primary purpose by creating a lively welcoming space for family and friends. This was achieved through an artistically-designed layout, lots of additional light and a mixture of beautiful white and dark cabinetry.

This 1990’s built, two-storey Westmount infill was in need of substantial updating, especially the kitchen. Having a warm, comfortable and engaging kitchen was extremely important to this social family. Aquarian Renovations removed the wall separating the kitchen and dining room to create one large functional kitchen built to accommodate the family along with numerous guests. The centre of the kitchen has a large 13foot island with seating for eight. The large east facing windows provide plenty of morning light and energy efficient LED pot lights brighten the kitchen during winter.

—Revington Renovations

Judges comments This kitchen was a unanimous first choice due to the workability and function of the design. “This stands out, lots of light, great sink, love the materiality.” Project lead: Ken Wurtak, Revington Renovations. Brenda Brix, AMR Design; Brett Waygood, Waygood’s Kitchens

6 July August 2015 | The Tomato

—Aquarian Renovations

Judges comments ‘A great family gathering space with lots of light.” Project lead: Aquarian Renovations Lina Baz, Kitchen Craft

The focus of this custom home design was to create a functional and beautiful living space fit for a busy family. The kitchen has a direct view to the great room area and the beautiful fireplace feature wall. The clients emphasized their preference for a neutral palette with natural finishes that still reflected their family’s unique character. Caesarstone countertops and high gloss white cabinets create a crisp contrast with the lively book-matched walnut cabinets. These unique textures paired with natural colours is further showcased by the oversized windows which allow ample daylight into the kitchen ensuring it feels fresh and inviting for all. —Habitat Studio

Judges comments The judges loved the contrast of the high-gloss white and walnut cabinetry, the continuity of materials and the island with its compact and inviting seating area Project lead: Trevor Hoover. J. Hoshizaki Designs, Florkowskys’ Woodworking & Cabinets Ltd.

Wayne Richey Photography Merle Prosofsky Photography Ltd.

Upper spread: Second Place Residential Renovations, Aquarian Renovations. Lower spread: First Place Residential New Build, Habitat Studio.

The Tomato | July August 2015 7

Residential New Build Second Place: Integri Kitchens The clients desired a space that was ideal for everyday living and a great entertaining space—a look that was both crisp and clean and warm and inviting. The transitional look achieves this. The windows framing the stainless range and hood provide beautiful light yet were a design challenge as their placement was critical to the overall plan in terms of balance. The range and hood are centered between the windows framed by stacked cabinets from the counter to the ceiling. The kitchen is chock-full of pot drawers, pull-outs and a recycling/waste centre. The centre island has a thicker countertop providing wow factor along with plenty of seating. —Integri Kitchens

Judges comments The judges loved all the built-ins and storage options in this kitchen.

Integri Kitchens photo

Project lead: Karen Scott, Integri Kitchens

Outdoor Kitchen First Place: Bossio Stone

—AB Tile & Stone Project lead: Tony Bossio, Carol Donald, AB Tile & Stone

8 July August 2015 | The Tomato

AB Tile & Stone photo

Our Edmonton client wanted to have an outdoor kitchen/cooking space in which they could entertain large groups. They also loved the idea of an authentic Italian woodburning oven. We’ve done several oven installations over the years but this one remains one of our favourite projects as it’s a great gathering space for family and friends. The tiled countertop is easily maintained as is the engineered stone face. The oven is lined with refractory brick, which allows the temperature inside the dome to reach 400ºC or 750ºF with a small amount of wood.

Commercial Kitchen Design First Place: ONPA Architects To reflect a corporate culture that promotes a collaborative environment, a large atrium kitchen was designed to be the central hub for the entire office. The client required a kitchen intimate enough for a small lunch group yet capable of hosting a sizeable event. Reclaimed wood was incorporated as a natural element to add warmth to the kitchen and contrast the white walls and high gloss millwork. Sliding glass doors to the kitchen are marked with bright colours that allow light to filter both in and out of the space. The result is a bright and open kitchen that staff and clients are immediately drawn into. —ONPA Architects

Judges comments This design was a unanimous choice of the judges. They loved the contrast of materials and found the entire space to be well-composed. “It’s a happy place.” Team: Erin Murray-Green, Jason Said, Erin West and Adrienne Sitko.

The Judges

Darrel Halliwell Darrell Halliwell is an architect and managing principal for DIALOG’s Edmonton Studio. He is a member of the firm’s leadership team, responsible for strategic direction and management of the firm across Canada.

George Ilagan George Ilagan, a partner at Hasting Ilagan Design, is an architect by inclination and training (Beaux-Arts Method, University of Santo Tomas, BS. Arch Class of 1976.) George has designed a myriad of kitchens, ranging from the simple to the sublime. hastingsilagan.ca

Plaid Interactive

Michele Roach Michele Roach, principal and co-owner of Wolski Design Group– one of Edmonton’s top interior design firms–is a minimalist-design pioneer, animal print enthusiast and self-proclaimed “creative problem solver with a soft spot for logistical nightmares”. wolskidesign.com

The Tomato | July August 2015 9

cook it raw

Alberta Chefs

Mary Bailey

The Alberta Cook it Raw journey begins on Cucumber Island in Winston Churchill Park, Lac la Biche, on a glorious weekend in late May.

chefs were allowed in the sweat lodge on the second day. All seemed transformed when they came out. Was it the smoky heat or the experience? Or both.

The idea? Put several of Alberta’s top chefs together in an isolated place to get to know each other. Why? To experience Alberta’s food culture on the land.

“I started Cook It Raw because I wanted to bring chefs back to a ‘raw’ state of mind,” says founder Alessandro Porcelli. “Textures and sensations were becoming more important than deliciousness. All of the food conferences that I attended were very ascetic—no contact with ingredients, food. The most interesting aspect was what was happening behind the scenes with the chefs. This is what I wanted to bring attention to.”

It was a smoky and delicious couple of days. The fish were jumping. There were colossal stuﬀed pike cooked over an open fire along with charred root vegetables and spring greens; a tub of watercress was kept cool in the lake. There was time to catch up, for walks around the island and canoeing. Only

Alessandro was interested in Connie and John Jackson’s approach at their restaurant Charcut and invited them to Cook it Raw in Charleston. “We were cooking with people we didn’t know in an unfamiliar place,” says Connie. “It was uncomfortable; then it was great.” Connie and John then introduced Alessandro to the Alberta Culinary

From left: Shane Chartrand (Sage), Eric Daniels, (sweat lodge ceremony leader) and Alessandro Porcelli. “This experience is bigger than life,” says Shane.” It’s emotional, meant to make us think and dream. I can’t quite explain it, but it’s the unanswered questions that make it exciting.” Tourism Alliance (ACTA) when ACTA brought Alberta chefs to the Terroir Symposium in Toronto.

and what people bring to that. Ours

Food culture marries tradition, technique, customs, ingredients and people. Food culture is what grows here,

brought farming and ranching, modern

is rich—think in terms of aboriginal traditions and practices, settlers who immigration. Japanese, Chinese, Celtic, Nordic, English, French, European,

Above: Connie DeSousa (Charcut) prepares a dish in Violet’s cook shack. Left: Brayden Kozak (Three Boars Eatery) and Eden Hrabec, (Crazyweed) did a lot of prep on the island.“I made some great connections with some talented chefs,” says Brayden. “By the end of the trip it was ‘all you people are awesome’.”

10 July August 2015 | The Tomato

Mary Bailey photos

Blair Lebsack (RgeRd, pictured), Brayden Kozak, Alessandro Porcelli and videographer/outdoorsman Kevin Kossowan went to the island early to build the mud oven and the grills.

Violet Cardinal demonstrates how to scrape a bison hide. She teaches traditional arts and crafts and creates cultural education experiences. We spent a day at her place on the Beaver Lake Cree Nation, where the chefs broke down a bison and helped scrape the hide, then cooked a meal for 40 on open fires. They made dinner with the Alberta ingredients each chef had brought including dandelions, stinging nettles, morels, bison and barley.

middle-Eastern, Mediterranean, Caribbean, east Asian, south Asian, Latin, who hasn’t contributed? On the last night of the Lac La Biche experience chefs were paired with an Alberta ingredient and producer. Over the summer each team will work on creating iconic dishes, then come together as a group this fall in Canmore and the Kananaskis to collaborate with seven international chefs. Their work will be celebrated at Cook it Raw dinners in Calgary and Edmonton. Why Alessandro Porcelli and Cook it Raw? These chefs are already at the forefront of Alberta’s culinary scene, interpreting our food identity in their restaurants and kitchens, but doing it for the most part as individuals. Cook it Raw allows them to work collectively. Like the wake of a canoe, what the chefs learn from their Cook it Raw exploration, ripples through their kitchens and beyond. "We’re Canadian, we’re humble, we don’t really know what we have here,” says Tannis Baker, the executive director of Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance. “Sometimes it takes an outsider to say ‘wow, look at this!’ At its core, Cook It Raw Alberta is a mentorship program helping chefs, producers and farmers identify the materials and techniques unique to our region in order to craft a compelling culinary narrative that resonates with a global audience.”

The September teams Blair Lebsack, Rge Rd, and Cam Dobranski, Brasserie Kensington: root vegetables

FINE WINE, SPIRITS AND ALES

Brayden Kozak, Three Boars and Paul Rogalski, Rouge: bison Connie DeSousa, Charcut Roast House and Duncan Ly, Yellow Door Bistro: honey Shane Chartrand, Sage and Andrew Winfield, River Café, Andrew: red fife wheat Scott Pohorelic, SAIT, and John Michael MacNeil, Black Pig Bistro: Saskatoon berries Darren Maclean, Shokunin, and Liana Robberecht, Winsport: canola Eden Hrabec, Crazyweed, and Justin Leboe, Model Milk: beef

Now in Edmonton Centre!

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The Public Campaign: Alberta Culinary Ambassadors Be a part of Cook it Raw. What does Alberta food look like to you? Visit cookitraw.org to enter to win a spot at the invite-only dinner in September.

Indoor or Outdoor

Wood Burning Ovens

Fatima Terrabain of Portage College gets together with a group of women from the Lac La Biche community to cook traditional Lebanese dishes. The women descended upon the island one night, bringing their sunny energy along with tubs of creamy hummus, home-made paper-thin bread called khobz marquq, beef koftas and garlic-scented chicken to be skewered and cooked. Lebanese people first settled the Lac La Biche area early in the 1800s. The tradition of female communal cooking exists everywhere in the world and evoked family memories for many. “It was like cooking with my aunts,” said Connie.

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The Tomato | July August 2015 11

Brian Misko

Grilling with the House of Brian Misko, co-owner of House of Q, a competition BBQ team from Surrey, British Columbia, has spent more than a decade in competition smoking and grilling foods. His new best-selling cookbook Grilling with House of Q is imbued with the smoky essence of professional barbecue competition.

hot dogs on the cool side of the grill, close the lid and cook for 20 to 60 minutes, glazing them with the BBQ sauce when the internal temperature of the meat reaches 145°F. When it has reached 165°F, transfer them to a plate. Cut the baguettes to the same length as the dogs. Smear your favourite condiments on the bread, add a cooked cheese dog and dig in!

“The hardest part was telling that story,” says Brian. “The travel, the camaraderie, sharing the barbecue love. The recipes were the easy part.”

Championship Slow-smoked Ribs

Along with tips and tales about backyard and competition cooking, find great recipes for rubs, brines and sauces. Here’s how to make award-winning ribs, and the world’s best bacon-wrapped cheese dog.

If there is one category in which House of Q has excelled in competition over the years, it has been ribs. We have won many first-place awards using this exact cooking technique. Master it and you will have great ribs—quite possibly even ribs that will beat House of Q’s! Be sure you have some wood chips on hand— apple, cherry or hickory work well—and a roll of heavy-duty aluminum foil. And for variety, replace the honey and brown sugar in the foil packets with such flavours as peach, pear or apple juices; whisky or rum; or maple syrup, corn syrup or even soda pop.

Cheese-stuffed Baconwrapped Hot Dogs What says summer more than hot dogs? From the ball game to the backyard, no celebration is complete without these smoky treats that appeal to kids and adults alike. Here’s my homemade version, dressed up a bit with cheese on the inside; it’s a tribute to Ted Reader, cookbook author, grilling guru and inspiration. Load up the cooked dogs with mustard, mayonnaise or barbecue sauce, and serve them topped with some Shaved Fennel and Onion Salad and a handful of napkins!

Serves 6 to 8

Barbecue sauce

cup House of Q Rock’n Red

Serves 6 to 8

BBQ Sauce or your favourite

tangy barbecue sauce

lbs ground pork, chicken or turkey

Tbsp House of Q House Rub or your favourite barbecue seasoning

6-8

storebought cheese sticks (or cut your own from a block of mozzarella, Jarlsberg, Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese), each ½-inch × ½-inch × 4 to 6 inches

lb bacon, cut in thin slices (optional)

12 July August 2015 | The Tomato

baguettes, sliced lengthwise

In a large bowl, mix together the ground meat and rub (or seasoning) until well combined. Divide the meat into 6 or 8 equal balls. Place 1 ball on a cutting board and cover it with a layer of plastic wrap. Using a rolling pin, press the meat into a thin rectangle—the thinner the better. Remove the plastic wrap and set a cheese stick in the centre of the meat, and

then roll up the ground meat around it, folding in the edges to seal in the cheese. If you choose, wrap a slice of bacon around each hot dog, arranging it in a spiral pattern from one end to the other. (Depending on the size of your hot dogs, you may need more than 1 slice of bacon to wrap each one.) Roll, fill and wrap the remaining dogs, and then arrange them on a plate, cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Prepare your grill for indirect cooking on medium heat. Place a sheet of aluminum foil under the cool side to catch the bacon drippings. Arrange the

cup lightly packed brown sugar

cup apple cider vinegar

cup House of Q Slow Smoke Gold BBQ Sauce (there really is no alternative!)

Slow-smoked ribs 3

racks of pork ribs, sides or back

6-8

Tbsp House of Q Slow Smoke Gold BBQ Sauce or your favourite prepared mustard

½-1

cup House of Q House Rub or Pork Rib Rub

cups honey

cups lightly packed brown sugar

Barbecue sauce: Place the brown sugar, cider vinegar and BBQ sauce in a medium saucepan on medium heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring often and then reduce the heat to low and allow it to thicken for about 10 minutes. Once the sugar has completely dissolved, remove the sauce from the heat and set aside. (You’ll be using this sauce for basting the ribs at the end of cooking.) Slow-smoked ribs: Prepare the ribs by removing the membrane on the back. To do this, start by lifting an edge of the membrane at the end of a bone. Using a paper towel, grasp the membrane and pull to remove it from the back of ribs. Discard the membrane. (Some butchers will do this for you; just ask when you purchase your ribs.) Starting on the back side of the ribs and using your hands or a silicone brush, smear half the Slow Smoke Gold BBQ sauce (or mustard) all over the ribs, and then coat them generously with the rub. Allow the ribs to sit at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes so the rub can start to draw moisture from the meat and stick to it. If you move the ribs too soon, all of the rub will fall oﬀ. Turn the ribs over and repeat the layering of BBQ sauce (or mustard) and rub on the top side, the “presentation” side for the judges. Prepare your smoker by lighting a small charcoal fire. Place unsoaked wood chips such as apple, cherry or hickory on top of the charcoal. Set the ribs in your cooker, close the lid and smoke the ribs for 90 minutes to 2 hours. This first step gives the meat a lot of flavour and sets the rub on the meat. You are ready to move on to the second step when the surface of the ribs is dry and “crusty.” In competition BBQ, we call this step “establishing the bark.” Cut a large sheet of heavy-duty foil the width of one of the racks of ribs and big enough to wrap it completely. Drizzle the foil with 2/3 cup of the honey and 2/3 cup of the brown sugar. (You can be creative with what you put inside the foil pouches: the goal is simply to braise the ribs and add lots of flavour.) Place a rack of ribs, meat side down, on the foil. Loosely wrap the foil around the ribs and set aside. Repeat with the remaining ribs, honey and brown sugar. Place

the wrapped ribs back on the smoker, and cook for another 45 minutes to 1 hour. This step makes the meat soft and tender. You will know that you are ready to move on to the third and final step when you lift each rack and feel for the tenderness of the meat. The racks should be pliable, and if you wanted to, you could easily fold them in half (but don’t!). There are a couple of other methods to test for tenderness. First, gently open a foil packet and loosely grasp the tip of a bone at one end of the rack in your left hand and the tip of a bone at the other end of the rack in your right hand, and then pull gently outward. If the meat looks like it is gently pulling away from the centre bones, almost as if it were ready to tear away from the bones, it is tender. Second, with experience you can simply lift a rack of ribs with a pair of tongs and feel the texture. If the meat slightly breaks in the centre of the rack and feels rather “flip-floppy” as you lift it, it is tender. If it is rigid, cook the rack longer or the meat will be tough.

Shop where the chefs shop.

Remove the ribs from the heat and carefully open the foil pouches. Pour the hot syrup from the packets into the pot of barbecue sauce and stir to combine. Remove the ribs from the foil and return them to the smoker, back side up. Place the barbecue sauce back on the stove, and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Allow the sauce to cook and thicken for a few minutes. Using a silicone brush, generously brush the ribs with the barbecue sauce, close the lid and allow the meat to cook for a few minutes. Turn the meat over after the sauce has started to thicken and stick to the back of the ribs. Brush the front of the ribs and continue to cook for another 20 to 45 minutes. This step, called glazing, allows the sauce to set on the ribs and tighten up some of the meat so the racks don’t fall apart after softening in the braising liquid. Remove the racks from the grill and allow them to rest for 10 minutes. To serve, cut between the bones. Arrange the ribs in your competition tray for the judges, or place them on a platter for your guests.

278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449.3710 Open Monday to Friday 10 am - 5 pm • Saturdays 9 am - 5 pm

Beef Garlic Sausage

YOUR EUROPEAN TASTE OF HOME 9944-82 Avenue NW Edmonton, AB 780.439.6913 w w w. k a n d k f o o d l i n e r. c o m

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The Tomato | July August 2015 13

A RECIPE FOR

Combine all ingredients in a saucepot and simmer over medium heat until thick. Let cool. Charred Scallion Aioli

(L-R) Juanita Krause (Vesta Gardens); Sasha McCauley (Vintage West Wine Marketing); Deb Krause (Vesta Gardens); Steve Buzak (Royal Glenora Club). Back row: Pawanjit Singh, Joseph Dias (Royal Glenora Club).

For 15 years, Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine has introduced local farmers to local chefs to create long-term business relationships as well as introducing both to fine VQA wine and regional craft beers. In addition to its key role in fostering our unique prairie gastronomy, Indulgence raises funds for children’s programs by The Junior League of Edmonton (over $100,000 to date) and the Indulgence Slow Food Bursary for NAIT Culinary students. Ampersand 27, Sun Works Farm, Red Rooster Winery

Chicken Galantine with Char Siu Sauce and Charred Scallion Aioli Red Rooster Hen House White Nathin Bye, executive chef, Ampersand 27 A galantine is a traditional French charcuterie technique, deboned chicken stuﬀed with a ground chicken mixture and cooked, oﬀering two textures and an elegant presentation. Ampersand’s had a subtle Asian flavour and was the hit of the night, garnering the people’s choice award.

clove garlic, minced

splash

Chinese cooking wine

T hoisin sauce

beaten egg salt and pepper

In a pan, sweat the shallot, ginger and garlic, then deglaze the pan with the cooking wine. Set aside to cool. Debone the chicken legs and lay them flat skin side down. Season. In a bowl combine the cooled onion mixture, ground chicken, egg and hoisin sauce. Mix with your hands until well combined. Form this mix into logs the length of the chicken legs and about 1.5 inches in diameter. Place the ground chicken logs on to the deboned chicken leg and roll the leg around the log. Using plastic wrap tightly wrap both of the chicken galantines at least ten times and twist the ends tightly. Secure both ends of each log with string to lock out any moisture. Poach the logs in simmering water until registering an internal temperature of 165 F. Cool. Unwrap the galantines, pat with paper towel and slice. Serve with drizzled Char Siu sauce and the aioli. Char Siu Sauce ½

c light soy sauce

T ketchup

T honey

Chicken Galantine

T demerara sugar

large chicken legs

splash

Chinese cooking wine

boneless, skinless chicken thighs, ground (or

T hoisin sauce

pinch

5 Spice powder

pinch

ground cloves

equivalent ground chicken, approx 500 gm) ¼

c minced shallot

t minced ginger

14 July August 2015 | The Tomato

bunch scallions

c mirin

c soy sauce

c good quality mayonnaise

T sesame oil

Char scallions on the barbecue or over high heat on a grill. Let cool. In a small saucepot combine mirin and soy sauce, reduce by half. Let cool. In a food processor or blender combine mayonnaise, sesame oil, charred onion and mirin mixture. Blend until smooth. Royal Glenora Club, Cedar Creek Estate Winery, Vesta Gardens

Moose Wood Acres Duck with Vesta Gardens Spring Greens Cedar Creek Estate Riesling Steve Buzak, executive chef, director food and beverage, Royal Glenora Club The rillette was served with a splash of colour from early spring pea greens, French breakfast radishes, dandelion blossoms, cattail hearts and asparagus pickle, finished with a dusting of fleur de sel and paired with Cedar Creek Estate Riesling.

Duck Rillette 1

4 lb whole duck

c finely chopped thyme, plus 4 sprigs

c kosher salt, plus more to taste

Ingredients B 4

T ground ginger

c duck or chicken stock

T whole black peppercorns, lightly crushed, plus freshly ground to taste

cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

bay leaves

fennel sliced

orange wedges

star anise

T coriander seeds

cardamom pods

Ingredients C 1

piece ginger, about 2 inches, peeled and thinly sliced

⅓

c brandy

⅓

c finely chopped parsley

c grated orange zest

⅛

t ground cloves duck fat salt and pepper

Place duck on a baking sheet. Rub with finely chopped thyme, salt, and ginger. Cover with plastic wrap; chill for 6 hours. Shake and rub oﬀ excess spice mixture from duck and transfer to a large (8L) pot. Add ingredients B (ginger, stock, peppercorns, cloves, garlic, bay leaves, fennel, orange, star anise, coriander seeds, cardamom pods) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, covered slightly, until meat is very tender, about 2 hours. Remove from heat and let cool in the pan until room temperature; cover and chill overnight. The next day scrape solidified fat from the top and set aside. Remove meat from the bone discarding the skin and bones. Strain and reserve ¼ cup stock; save remaining stock for future use. Transfer meat to a standing mixer. Add stock and ingredients C (ginger, brandy, parsley, ornage zest, cloves)

Mix on low speed adding some of the reserved duck fat if desired Underseason slightly as the dish will be finished with fleur de sel. To store: Tightly pack rillette into mason jars. Melt reserved fat plus 1 cup duck fat in a 1-qt. saucepan over medium heat; pour over rillettes to cover. Keeps refrigerated under the fat cover for up to 2 weeks. To serve: Push fat aside, garnish with cornichons or pickled vegetables. Kitchen By Brad, Irving’s Farm Fresh, Benjamin Bridge

Bubbles and Balls Benjamin Bridge Brut Methode Classique Chef Brad Smoliak, Kitchen by Brad Irving’s farm fresh bacon and ground pork mixed with cabbage and rice, rolled into a ball and simmered in tomato sauce and paired with Bengamin Bridge Brut Methode Classique.

Ukrainian Meatballs These were delectable with a beautifully light texture and rich flavour, highlighted by the refreshing Nova Scotia bubbly.

c ground bacon ends (4 oz.)

c finely chopped onions

c finely chopped cabbage

T paprika

t crushed garlic

t marjoram

t kosher salt (may need to add more depending on saltiness of bacon)

t coarse black pepper

c ground back bacon

c cooked short grain rice

egg

Cook ground bacon over medium low heat just till the fat starts to render out. Add onions and cabbage and cook for 10-15 minutes or until vegetables start to soften. Add the remaining ingredients and cook over low heat until all the vegetables have cooked down and the mixture is a deep rich color. Remove from heat, chill until cold. In the bowl of an electric mixer, or by hand, mix together the cooked bacon and cabbage mixture with the ground pork bacon, egg and rice, mix until well combined. Pan-fry a little patty to see if seasonings need to be adjusted. Adjust with salt and pepper if need be. Please see “Indulgence” on page 30.

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The Tomato | July August 2015 15

Down Highway 13 Mary Bailey We saw them in the nick of time, near the right bumper, a mother duck with babies in tow marching on to the shoulder of the road. We drove past before they reached the pavement, but soon they would be on the road, small and brown and hard to see. I honked and waved energetically at the red Subaru wagon heading in the other direction. Somehow, the driver understood and we saw brake lights. Then, the most extraordinary thing happened. The driver turned the Subaru around and, with high-beams on and emergency lights flashing, acted as a crossing guard for the duck family. It was a neighbourly thing to do, and a good omen for a road trip. I was with Gord Snyder, the project manager for Eat East of Edmonton who is originally from Wainright. He has spent several years helping people discover east central Alberta. We were heading east with a plan to stop for bedding plants and sausages, have coﬀee in Camrose, see what could be seen. So far the seeing included a lone moose in a poplar grove, a rangy coyote and some fine examples of hay bale art. We were also on a quest to see if you could travel Hwy 13, up to Wainwright for lunch, then back to Edmonton on Hwy 14. It can be done but I don’t recommend it. It’s too much ground to cover in one day.

Above: Ravidass of Sacred Arts Café; upper right: Jam Tarts in Killam, lower right: Sedgewick’s Wooden Spoon

The following are generally open during business hours, but many country businesses are closed on Sundays or open only by appointment. Check the website or call first. Don’t forget the cooler and ice packs.

faces to farmers’ market shoppers. See the Berkshire living outside and shop at their on-farm store.

You’ll miss stopping to take photos of hay bale art and falling-down barns, and checking out every historical place marker. Or watching cloud shadows scud across fields of glorious yellow canola blooming against limitless blue sky.

Maplewood Acres (Lyseng Farm) maplewoodacres.ca Maplewood is a long-time vendor at the Old Strathcona Market but it’s fun to go to the farm and buy fresh-picked veg.

Sacred Arts Café, 5006 50 Street Camrose, sacredarts.ca Calgarians Lisa and Ravidass have opened a charming yoga studio and café in Camrose’s attractive historical district. The muﬃns and energy balls are worth the trip.

Do Hwy 13 one weekend and Hwy 14 the next. Who knows? Maybe you’ll get to guard for ducks crossing.

Irving’s Farm Fresh Meats, Round Hill, irvingsfarmfresh.com Nicola and Alan Irving are familiar

Jam Tarts, Main Street Killam Popular community spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner, try the Rueben.

16 July August 2015 | The Tomato

Wooden Spoon Café and Cake Shop, Main Street, Sedgewick Open for lunch or coﬀee and dessert (closed weekends). Haus Falkenstein in the Lougheed Hotel, Lougheed, haus-falkenstein.ca The Lougheed Hotel is not really a hotel so don’t plan an overnight. Don’t ask for spatzle either with any of your 60-plus schnitzel. Actually, it’s the same juicy house-made pork schnitzel

Go East Events A selected list of some of the culinary adventures possible east of Edmonton this summer. Visit the Go East website for directions, tickets and the fine print, goeastrto.com or eateastofedmonton.ca Friday July 3 –Sunday July 5 Vegreville Ukrainian Pysanka Festival, Vegreville Delicious authentic Ukrainian food, cultural performers, folk art. Sunday July 5 Savour Strathcona County Gourmet cuisine art and culture restaurants, food trucks, artists. Thursday, July 16 Taste of Wainwright

Above: brewmaster Aaron Hogarth at Ribstone in Edgerton. Right: Ashley Morgan in Wainwright. Below: Keith and Aileen Brower with Cooper.

Saturday, July 18 Bears and Berries Fest, Elk Point Teddy Bear picnic, berry desserts, barbequed burgers. Saturday, August 8 Wildberry Festival Pancake Breakfast, Boyle Street market, beer tent, BBQ stands.

with over 60 diﬀerent toppings, the best seller being the Jägerschnitzel with mushroom and bacon sauce. Or, go old school and order the classic Wienerschnitzel, unadorned schnitzel served with lemon. Ribstone Creek Brewery, Edgerton, ribstonecreekbrewery.ca This craft brewer is making great beer in a little town near Wainright. Try the new seasonal Great White Combine, a hoppy wheat ale named after what prairie farmers call a crop-destroying hail storm.

Saturday, August 8 Holden Legion Pig Roast, Holden Legion A whole pig with lots of side dishes. Saturday, August 15 Elk Island Annual Bison Festival, Elk Island National Park Enjoy a celebration of conservation, culture and cuisine. Fireside Grill, 4903-4921 45 Street, Czar The home of the exotic burger menu— snapping turtle, python etc, along with the more plebian choices of elk, bison, or beef, and their pulled pork is tasty. Brower House Bed and Breakfast, Wainright, bbcanada.com Keith and Aileen Brower are lovely hosts. Delicious light and fluﬀy cinnamon buns and honey from their Poplar Glen Apiary. Jack’s Place, 218 10 Street, Wainwright The mother and daughter team of Sonjia and Ashley Morgan have created an adorable multi-use space in an old department store with wonderful mid-century furniture from the old Wainright Hotel.

Sunday, August 16 Camrose Forestburg Garden and Gourmet Train ride, garden tours, lunch. Saturday, August 22- Sunday, August 23 Babas & Borshch Ukrainian Festival,Andrew Baba Magda, borshch, singing, dancing, drinking. Sunday, August 23 The Great Alberta Potato Derby, Victoria Settlement Provincial Historic Site, Pakan Baked potatoes, spud car racing. Sunday, August 30 Glendon Pyrogy Festival, Glendon Home of the giant pyrohy. Sunday, September 13 Harvest of the Past & Harvest Food Festival, Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village Traditional harvest activities. Sunday, October 25 Octoberfest Sausage Supper Take the Octoberfest train to Heisler's annual sausage supper.

Please see“Hwy 13” on page 29

The Tomato | July August 2015 17

Beer Guy Beer and Bikes I must come clean. I’m a member of a shadowy, underground organization that has been wreaking havoc on city streets for years. We call it the Pedal Bike Pub Crawl (PBPC).

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For the past six years, a group of normally quite responsible people have hopped on their bikes to ride from pub to pub on an Edmonton summer’s day. Five pubs in all, some classy, some dodgy. The route is carefully mapped by a couple, she with a Master’s in Recreation and Leisure Studies, he a CMA. The route must cross the river, can’t repeat more than one pub visited previously, follows trails and bike lanes as much as possible, and—of course—focuses on patios. The pubcrawl is a real summer highlight, reacquainting me with my long-neglected bike and reminding me of Edmonton’s shy beauty and quirky charms. Without PBPC, I’m sure I would never have ended up biking with a motorcycle gang or dancing with homeless guys to ABBA covers in Churchill Square. And I’ve learned some things about beer in Edmonton— for instance, discovering that places like Remedy or Cha Island stock great craft beer. If you think pedals and pints can’t be pals, you haven’t been to Portland. Or Colorado. Or Munich. In the early 20th century, Franz Kugler owned the Kugleralm, a tavern 12 miles outside Munich at the end of a cycling trail. One sunny Saturday in 1922, thousands of thirsty cyclists

18 July August 2015 | The Tomato

showed up at his bar looking for beer. Knowing he would soon run out of beer, Kugler mixed his beer 50/50 with lemon soda he had languishing in the cellar. Achtung baby, the radlermass beer style was born (in German radler means cyclist and mass means liter). Or so the story goes. Biking brewery to brewery in Belgium is high on many beer geeks’ bucket lists. A 1989 bike trip through Belgium inspired Colorado homebrewer Jeﬀ Lebesch, who returned to the States and founded New Belgium Brewing and launched their flagship beer, Fat Tire Amber Ale. There are similar origin stories throughout craft beer, with bike geeks becoming beer geeks. Indeed, craft beer and bikes have a similar culture, a devoted, sometimes cult-like crowd of true believers always ready to spread the gospel of good biking or good beer. Drink local, ride local. A librarian friend of mine manages to do a perfect nerd trifecta, combining bikes, beer and books. The group, Cycling for Libraries, bikes from library to library in Europe, sleeping in hostels and ending up at a library conference. This year, they are cycling from Oslo, Norway to Aarhus, Denmark, a distance of over 600 km. My friend assures me this is more fun than it sounds. He claims there is great beer everywhere they cycle. I’ll have to take his word for it as I’m sticking with the Pedal Bike Pub Crawl: the bike ride from my house to Beer Revolution and then on to the Sugarbowl is less than six km, not 600 km.

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Beer, summer and biking make a delightful trio. Pick up these bike-friendly beers at better beer shops like Sherbrooke Liquor or Keg n Cork.

New Belgium Fat Tire Amber Ale Fort Collins, CO

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Named after the fat-tired mountain bike New Belgium founder Jeﬀ Lebesch used to cycle through Belgium on his trip inspiring him to found New Belgium. Fat Tire is a pleasant, biscuity and a bit sweet American amber with nothing Belgian about it except the name.

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Alley Kat Lemon Hefeweizen Edmonton For years Alley Kat has supported the MS Bike fundraising tour from Leduc to Camrose, entering an Alley Kat team and supplying all the beer for the nearly 2,000 riders. A perfect beer for those thirsty cyclists is this summer seasonal, an unfiltered hefeweizen with a hint of lemon zest.

Oskar Blues Dale’s Pale Ale, Lyons, CO Biking, especially mountain biking, is deeply engrained in the culture of Oskar Blues Brewery. They even started a bike manufacturing division called Reeb (beer backwards). Dale’s Pale Ale is a feisty American pale ale, famous for being the first quality craft beer marketed in cans.

In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience • Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850

Deschutes Chainbreaker White IPA, Bend, OR Born as a brewpub in Bend, Oregon’s outdoor capital, bikes are in Deschutes’ DNA. The Chainbreaker name comes from an epic mountain bike race, the Cascade Chainbreaker. Mixing elements of a Belgian wheat beer with a Pacific Northwest IPA was true genius and makes for an outstanding beer.

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Hopworks Lager Portland, OR

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Portland is both beervana and bikevana, with hipsters on tricked-out fixies meeting up with spandex-clad road racers and Gore-Tex-clad oﬀ roaders at one of Portland’s many bike-friendly brewpubs like Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB). Their quaﬀable Czech pilsner satisfies all the bike tribes.

Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen. 8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com

Parallel 49 Tricycle Grapefruit Radler, Vancouver, BC Stiegl had great success bringing the German cycling beer, radlermass, to North America a few years ago. Parallel 49’s take on radler combines ruby red grapefruit juice with lager and tastes a little more malt-forward (aka beery) than the Stiegl. Perfect for a post-ride patio. Peter Bailey is currently in training for Pedal Bike Pub Crawl VII. Please give him a wide berth. He tweets as @Libarbarian.

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The Tomato | July August 2015 19

DRINK SUPERIOR

Feeding People Crunching on Crickets The idea of eating insects might make some people’s stomach churn. But if we can get past our cultural bias, these crunchy arthropods might be the future of sustainable, nutritious and high-end plates.

Keg n Cork Liquor Company

Over 70 of the finest Bourbons to choose from. 3845 99 Street www.kegncork.com info@kegncork.com 780.461.0191

Avocados and bananas are positioned near a bank of windows in the downtown location of Earth’s General Store, while teas, rice, beans and all the non-perishables line the aisles. It’s like most grocery stores except, the focus is on organic sustainable food. But one corner of the store showcases items that you probably haven’t seen in your typical big-box grocer—at least not in this corner of the globe. Hanging from a rack are several bags full of bugs, including seasoned whole crickets and mealworms along with cricket flour that can be used to bake muﬃns or cakes.

www.themarc.ca

@themarcedmonton

While owner Michael Kalmanovitch is a vegetarian and isn’t interested in sampling the edible insects, he believes the bugs he’s been carrying in his store since November are a great source of protein for those interested in a healthy and environmentally sustainable product. He’s not alone. In 2013, the United Nations released a report that stated eating insects and using them as feed for livestock could increase food security, while decreasing our impact on the Earth’s resources. Eating insects is not a new concept invented for the adventurous. For centuries, many individuals from around the world have dined on everything from silkworm larvae to scorpions along with hundreds of other insect species. But in North America and Europe, eating bugs is viewed as foreign at best, and completely repulsive at worst. In other words, in this part of the world, insects aren’t even generally viewed as food. Instead, they’re often looked at as something that’s a threat to our

20 July August 2015 | The Tomato

food supplies. The King’s University psychology professor Heather Looy, who studies people’s attitudes towards eating bugs, says individuals in North America and Europe look at insects as one homogenous, repugnant group. And our attitudes extend beyond the insects, believing anything they’ve touched has become contaminated, creating a big environmental problem, according to Looy. “It leads us to waste a lot of food because people will not buy food that has been affected by insect presence,” she says. “So, it leads to the overuse of pesticides which means that you kill the beneficial insects along with the pests. It means pesticide run-off can get into the water table and affect the eco-system. That can have all kinds of ripple effects.” And the ripple effects extend beyond our environment to the lives of people living in other parts of the world. As some villages in Africa switch from subsistence farming to single crop agriculture, pesticides are used to eradicate colonies of insects that were once a source of protein, especially for children. As a result, levels of anemia rise, explains Looy. Those from the West who instigated this new plan didn’t think of the insects as food, and the people of the village didn’t want to talk about it, understanding that western people would pity them for eating something they find distasteful. But looking at insects as a dirty, diseaseridden, last resort option for the poor is simply incorrect, says Looy. For one thing, Jarrod Goldin, co-founder of Next Millennium Farms—the producers that grow the bugs carried at Earth’s General Store—says insects have very different DNA from humans. And that’s a good thing, he says, because the further away our DNA is from our food source, the less chance there is for transference of illness. There are plenty of direct benefits to eating insects as well—they’re packed full of nutrition. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of

Caroline Barlott the United Nations’ document, Edible Insects: Future Prospects for Food and Feed Security, meal worms are just slightly lower in protein than beef, comparable in mineral content, generally have a higher vitamin content and have a lower fat content than their meat counterparts. Meanwhile, the environmental benefits are substantial. According to Goldin, it takes about 100 gallons of water to produce 10 grams of meat protein, while one gallon of water can produce 10 grams of insect protein. Also, insects grow quickly—they require just six weeks to mature—which means the amount of feed and electricity needed to raise them is far less than traditional meat livestock. Not only that but insect farmers are able to use leftover stalks or husks from other crops to further prevent extra waste. The fact that a company exists in Canada that actually processes insects for human food is a testament that things are changing. Prior to Next

Millennium Farms’ start in 2013, you could only order edible insects from other countries, and in many cases, the products catered to the novelty or grossout factor, including beetles in lollypops, or chocolate covered ants.

on restaurant plates, not unlike other once taboo foods like sushi, though she admits insects face a whole other hurdle—collectively we’ve never really thought of them as food in the first place.

While professor Looy would like to see people’s ideas shift about bugs, she says it is important that those curious about experimenting with insects do so safely. There are far too many risks with trying to hunt insects on your own. “Just like you wouldn’t go out into a field and take a random bite out of a cow, you shouldn’t just go out into a field and pop a cricket in your mouth,” she says. There are potential contaminants that could be involved from pesticides and other chemicals, plus most people would not know the edible insects from the inedible ones. It’s best to go with a grower who is transparent about how the bugs are fed and looked after.

The attitude is especially perplexing when considering the fact that crustaceans such as lobster and shrimp are considered delicacies. Prior to cooking, crickets and shrimp look strikingly similar, which shouldn’t be a surprise since they are both arthropods. And yet, shrimp are considered a highend food, while their country cricket cousins are relegated to the bottom of the slop barrel.

Looy believes there is hope that insects will become the next big hit

“Shrimp feed on decaying matter on the bottom of the ocean; what they eat is really gross. And we don’t have a problem culturally that humans can eat them. Crickets, locusts and scorpions are vegetarians, they eat fruit and plants, fresh stuﬀ,” says Looy. “So, if you’re going to be rational about what

you’re going to eat, you would flip the categories. But we don’t because it’s not about that.” Because, she says, our aversion to insects as food is simply not rational. Despite having tasted meal worms, crickets, honey bee larvae, locusts, and flies, among others, Looy still struggles with her own gag reflex when eating them. But she is gradually seeing progress, and while she doesn’t believe everyone needs to run out and start frying up some crickets, she believes that by changing our attitudes towards bugs, there will be strong environmental and social benefits. Caroline Barlott is a freelance writer whose goal is to bake cricket cupcakes for her next dinner party.

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Oh Canada! What to drink this summer? Look no further than these new Canadian releases. Tinhorn Creek 2012 Cabernet Franc (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $25 Sandra Oldfield at Tinhorn Creek is a long-time champion of Cabernet Franc in the valley; let’s just say that Tinhorn was making Cab Franc long before it was cool to do so. Their commitment pays oﬀ in both the Oldfield Series and its little brother, the 2012—full-bodied, possessing aromas and flavours of red currant and herbs along with a good whack of silky tannins and balanced acidity, just the thing for steak on the grill. Norman Hardie 2013 County Pinot Noir (Prince Edward County VQA, Ontario) $39 Norman Hardie spent several years making wine in Burgundy, Oregon and South Africa before coming to Prince Edward County, a spit of land east of Toronto near Belleville better known for apples and beaches than wine growing. (Sound familar?) Hardie found impeccable seams of limestone where he now makes astonishing wines—vivid expressions of terroir and winemaking with a light touch. If you love Pinot yet haven’t experienced Norm Hardie, it’ll rock your world. The 2013: gorgeously balanced sappy red fruit with juicy

22 July August 2015 | The Tomato

acidity vibrating with a glorious tension. Drink now with druck breast, or cellar. Le Vieux Pin 2011 Equinox Syrah (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $90 Top of the line Equinox wines from Severine Pinte in the south Okanagan include this dusky Syrah, a powerful and elegant beauty with layers of vibrant peppery blackberry flavours. For something more in line for everyday drinking try the Petit Rouge, mostly Merlot or the Petit Blanc, an aromatic white blend, $20ish. Summerhill 2012 Merlot (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $23 Wine maker Eric von Krosigk founded Summerhill Estate Winery with the Cipes family, left to do other things, then came back in 2006 to help the winery gain certified organic status. This Merlot, made from transitional grapes not yet certified organic, is a treat. It charms with its simplicity, nice clean fruit not junked up with tons of wood or technique. The price makes a glass completely guilt free. Culmina 2013 R&D Red Blend (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $32 Drink this delicious Merlot-dominated blend this summer while you are waiting for your

Wines Mary Bailey

Culmina Hypothesis to take on some deserved cellar time. With loads of ripe cherry, blackcurrant and mocha notes in the aromas and flavours, R&D is approachable, yet serious enough to have with dinner. The R&D refers both to the vineyard philosophy at Culmina and the image on the label—twins Ronald and Donald Triggs, age 11, on the farm in Manitoba. 50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $40 Grant Stanley is an accomplished winemaker and pinophile, and it’s been exciting to watch his new young winery north of Kelowna develop. The 2013 delivers the contradiction we love from Pinot Noir—lightness yet depth, taut structure yet rich flavour. Expect some lively berry fruit along with some spicy clean-dirt notes and a crisp texture. Love this with pork roast lavished with fresh thyme and rosemary. Cedar Creek Platinum 2012 Desert Ridge Meritage (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $40 “The vineyard is about 20 years old, “says winemaker Darryl Brooker. “Most of the south Okanagan is sand—you get really fruity wines from the sand. This is a narrow strip of old river rock, hand-sized round stones. It’s really distinct. The roots go very deep on that rock. “This is the first vintage entirely from Desert Ridge, we had used the grapes in other wines up until now, but

Platinum is what I really wanted to do. The blend will depend on the vintage, 2012 was a cooler year—it’s mostly Merlot. The 2014 I expect will have more Cab Sauv.” Meritage denotes a wine made from the classic Bordeaux varieties. The 2012 is 54 per cent Merlot, 37 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot completing the blend. The wine has incredible structure and depth, reinedin, a bit restrained at this time. Drink with your best grilled beef. “This vineyard creates rich big reds that are amazing at five years old, but could cellar for 10 years, easy,” says Darryl. “The stone doesn’t lend itself to opulence; the 2012 will reward the patient.” Little Farm 2013 Riesling (Similkameem Valley, British Columbia) $43 Climbing over the Richter Pass from the Okanagan to the Similkameem is a little like entering another world. How diﬀerent the valleys are, the Okanagan wide and pastoral, the Similkameem tight and brooding—the wind howls down the valley and the sun sets early behind the forbidding Cascades. Often with wine, it’s these improbable spots that deliver the most amazing quality. Rhys Pender and Alishan Driediger started planting their Mulberry Tree vineyard near Cawston in 2009, joining Similkameem wine pioneers Orofino and the Herders. The land was less expensive than Okanagan parcels and the soil possessed an unusually high proportion of calcium carbonate (broken-down limestone). Grapes love that. I visited Little Farm after their first vintage, tasting the Riesling from barrel; I think the total output was 300 bottles. The current release builds on

the promise of that first eďŹ&#x20AC;ort, revealing a delicious wineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;bone-dry, textured, multi-layered, tasting of rock and citrus and honey, catnip for lovers of fine Riesling. Have with lovely cheeses or grilled halibut. Norman Hardie 2013 County Chardonnay (Prince Edward County VQA, Ontario) $38 Norman Hardie is equally adept at making chardonnay. His bottlings will turn heads, especially for those who had given up on the grape, having tasted too many wines masquerading as butterscotch sundaes. Hardieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2013 reverberates with juicy minerality, delicate (but not a lightweight) with lots of nuance in the citrusy, slightly saline, briochy flavours. Unfined and unfiltered, drink now with glorious seafood, or put away for a few years. Tinhorn Creek Gewurztraminer (Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia) $20 This is the ultimate fridge door wine, the wine you need to have on hand all the time, for unexpected guests, to have a glass while cooking, or just because. The style is dryish, with inviting muskiness and hints of lychee and ginger. Always refreshing, never cloying, as suitable with grilled chicken as it is with a sesame kale salad.

demand for what is now thought of as one of the Okanaganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature cool climate grapes. Love the lime, yellow peach and tangy rhubarb flavours in this lively wine. Pour as an aperitif or have with a goat cheese salad. Henry of Pelham 2013 Riesling (Niagara Peninsula VQA, Ontario) $20 Enjoy this lovely bottling of Niagara Riesling, fruity and floral, (think tangerine citrus and roses) with some sweetness balanced by refreshing acidity, mouthwatering in the best possible way. Henry of Pelham was one of the first Ontario wineries to pull out their Concord and Niagara grapes taking a chance on Riesling and Chardonnay. The three brothers, Matthew, Daniel and Paul continue to make characterful wines on the Short Hills Bench. Drink with Thai pork dishes.

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Benjamin Bridge 2014 Nova 7 (Nova Scotia VQA) $26 Winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslauriers creates fine wines in the Gaspereau Valley near the Bay of Fundy, which we Albertans are finally getting to experience. The Nova 7 will become your quintessential summer brunch wine. This softly sparkling, mostly Muscat blend is a pale coral colour, with aromas of orange blossoms and roses and bright flavours of star fruit and warm citrus, slightly sweet yet balanced and refreshing.

Gray Monk 2013 Pinot Auxerrois (Okanagan

Find these wines at Aligra Wines ! " "#$% & % Valley, VQA British & Spirits, Bin 104, Color de Vino, Columbia) $20 Crestwood Wines, Hickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fine Wines, Gray Monk brought Pinot Unwined Wines and Spirits and other Auxerrois vines to BC from fine wine shops. Not all wines at every the Alsace in the 1970s, store. All prices are approximate. creating in the process a

The Tomato | July August 2015 23

EAT East of Edmonton

THIS SEASON!

July 16

Taste of Wainwright Bacon Fest

July 18-19

Boian Museum BBQ and Picnic

August 8

Boyle Wildberry Festival

August 8

Holden Legion Pig Roast

August 15

Elk Island National Park Bison Festival

August 16

Battle River Rail Garden & Gourmet

August 22-23

Alberta Open Farm Days

August 22-23

Babas and Borshch Ukrainian Festival in Andrew

August 22-23

Camrose County Prairie Fun Days

August 23

Victoria Settlement’s Great Alberta Potato Derby

August 30

Glendon Pyrogy Festival

September 13

Taste of Heritage at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

September 30 Eat East of Edmonton: a showcase of local food October 3

Smoky Lake Pumpkin Festival

October 10

Andrew Garlic Festival

October 25

Battle River Rail Octoberfest

October 30

Camrose Octoberfest

Eat East of Edmonton: a showcase of local food Wednesday, September 30 Viking Community Hall, 4pm-7pm Meet local food producers, taste, shop and celebrate local food. Brought to you by the Go East Regional Tourism Organization and the Battle River Alliance for Economic Development.

www.goeastrto.com www.eateastofedmonton.com Eat East of Edmonton 2015 is helping to grow emerging and existing culinary events, enhancing and promoting producers and connecting events and tours in our region.

24 July August 2015 | The Tomato

Drink The art of the cocktail Ampersand 27 “We want to ensure that our guests are experiencing unique balance, flavour profile and taste sensations in their cocktails,” says owner Nathin By. Mixologist Janice Bochon. Santa Maria 2 oz pineapple juice 2 oz spiced rum 1 oz simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water, flavoured with cardamom and black pepper) 2 basil leaves Shake all ingredients over ice and pour into a rocks glass. Serve with pineapple wedge.

Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse Pampa not only makes the best caipirinha in town, they make over 12 diﬀerent variations, from the classic lime to a dessert caipirinha with banana and cinnamon. Strawberry Caipirinha 1½ ounces cachaca liquor 1½ fresh strawberries 2 fresh lime wheels 2 tablespoons of refined white sugar 1 full scoop of ice Cut the tops oﬀ the strawberries and cut into quarters. Place strawberries, lime wheels and sugar into a shaker. Muddle with a pestle so as to release the juices and oils from the strawberries and lime

wheels. Add ice, cachaca and a splash of water to the shaker. Shake vigorously. Pour mixture into glass, garnish, and serve.

Three Boars Eatery “Cocktails raise the respect of alcohol. They force you to pay attention, it’s not just a let’s-get-drunk-shots-and-highballs mentality.” —Chuck Elves Gins & Needles 1¾ oz Spirit Bear Gin ½ oz spruce liqueur ¼ oz dry Vermouth dash Scrappy’s cardamom bitters float Fernet Branca

photos by Kevan Morin, Curtis Comeau Photography

SUMMER ITALIAN MENU Inspired by the exhibition Illuminations: Italian Baroque Masterworks in Canadian Collections

zincrestaurant.ca Luca Giordano (Italian 1634–1705), Massacre of the Children of Niobe (detail), c. 1685, Oil on canvas, Art Gallery of Hamilton, Ontario, The Joey and Toby Tanenbaum Collection, 2002.

TOMATO EDMONTON.pdf

6/12/15

3:37 PM

JOIN US FOR

cibo

X1X Nineteen

“Our cocktails are simple and delicious just like our food,” says manager Lisa Vaughn. “There isn’t a single cocktail on our menu that contains more than five ingredients.”

“Our cocktail menu is classy and refined,” says manager Nicole Hewson. Assistant manager Susan Teskey is in charge of cocktail creations and garnishing. Susan serves the Shiva in a footed cocktail glass with a flower ice cube.

Negroni Bianco 1 oz gin ½ oz St. Germain ¼ oz Bittermans Liqueur ¼ oz Cinzano Extra Dry Serve over ice and finish with a large lemon rind.

CMY

Happy Hour

ON THE PATIO

Shiva 1 oz Grey Goose Citron Vodka ½ oz Chambord ½ oz St. Germain

MONDAY - FRIDAY 1:30-5:00PM ALL SUMMER LONG

9929 109 St NW, EDMONTON

Mix over ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

Cocktails clockwise from top: Shiva (XIX), Negroni Bianco (Cibo), Gins & Needles (Three Boars), Strawberry Caipirinha (Pampa), Santa Maria (Ampersand 27).

The Tomato | July August 2015 25

GISELLE COURTEAU BAKES PIE

Giselle Courteau is co-founder of the beloved Duchess Bakeshop. Everyone has a favourite can’t-live-without item from the Duchess, but along with their stellar macarons, Duchess is probably best known for their delicious pies and tarts. Giselle generously shares her love of pie, tips and tricks for making pie plus two recipes from the Duchess Bake Shop Cookbook. Growing up in Spruce Grove, my mom and I had a simple tradition of baking tourtière pies together. Well, more like she’d make them, and I’d just make a mess. I was three years old when I first began baking with my mom, and while I wasn’t much help with making the pie dough, I always helped with the assembly, rolling out the dough and filling the shells with a savoury pork filling. The tradition continued over the years, and the smell of cloves and pork still reminds me of that time. We’d make forty of these tourtière, which mom par-baked and froze to have on hand for special holidays throughout the year. Pie dough seemed like this magical bunny that miraculously appeared out of my mother’s hat. So when I started baking in earnest in high school, I baked everything but pies. I was terrified of it. ‘What if it turns out hard as a rock,’ I'd ask myself. ‘How could I get that flaky texture I love? What if it’s not flavourful at all?’ Selfdoubt always hovered over my shoulder until another woman entered my life. As many do, I looked up to Julia Child. In my early 20s I bought Baking with Julia, and read it every night before bed. I'd read the book back-to-back four times before building up the courage to tackle pie dough. Armed with bravado and Julia’s imaginary hands, I took a deep breath and started mixing flour and butter, shortening and salt, and a bit of ice water. The first pie dough I ever made was from that book and, it was amazing! I still remember pulling that first apple pie out of the oven, all golden and bubbly, and when Garner saw it, he said, “Wow, that is a good pie!” 26 July August 2015 | The Tomato

I quickly realized there was no magic involved, and making pie dough was nothing to be feared at all. With my new-found confidence, I made apple pie, then peach, then strawberry–rhubarb. When I’d exhausted all my recipes, I called my mom for more. Just like anything else I learn to do, once I did it I gained a little more confidence each time.

baking it not all the way through. To do so, roll out the dough, place in the pie plate and poke with a fork. Next, line it with parchment and weigh it down with pie weights, beans or rice on top. Place it in the oven and when it is almost done, pull out the pie and remove the weights. Place the shell back in the oven and bake until golden brown (about 5 minutes).

Trust me, it’s easy to make pie dough, and you can master it quickly. Here are two critical tips to get you baking right away:

Use a pie wash and don’t be stingy: To give your pie that shiny, golden look, mix egg whites and a little bit of cream, and brush the egg-wash all over the top and sides. Don’t forget the little nooks and crannies! The same goes for the sugar: sprinkle it on generously and it will caramelize beautifully.

Make sure your butter and shortening are really cold and use ice water. Do not over mix the dough. You need the butter and shortening to remain lumpy because, when they melt during baking, they leave behind pockets in the crust, creating perfect, flaky goodness. Tips to better pies Use a stand mixer: For a short time, we mixed our pie dough at the bakery by hand until we could not keep up. We introduced the mixer and haven’t looked back because the piecrust is just as good. To mix, put the flour, butter, shortening and salt in your mixer with a paddle attachment and, on speed 1, mix just enough for the fat to be small chunks. This should only take 10-15 seconds and the mixture should still look slightly dry. Still on speed 1, add your ice-cold water all at once. Mix only long enough for a dough to form.

Freeze pie dough in balls: Dough can last in the freezer for up to six months, so make your dough in batches and freeze what you don’t use. Baking times: When baking pies, always position your oven rack in the middle of the oven. Baking times may vary depending on your oven, the depth of your pie plate, and whether you’re using disposable aluminum pie plates or glass/ceramic ones. All of our recipes are tested using glass pie plates, but even if that’s what you’re using too, you should use our baking times as a guideline only.

The shortening versus butter debate: My mom made an all-lard dough, and the more research I did, I realized that butter gives it flavour but shortening makes it flaky. I like to use a fifty-fifty mix. Pies are the only item we use shortening for at Duchess.

Getting the perfect pie crust is really about checking the pastry during baking for the right colour. For a blind-baked shell, it should be a light golden brown; for covered and lattice-top pies, it should be a medium to darker golden brown. Place pies directly on the oven rack for baking rather than on a tray. If you’re concerned about dripping, place a piece of aluminum foil on the rack below.

Pre-bake anything without a top: (otherwise known as par-bake) When you make a pie with a crumble topping, it’s a good idea to par-bake the shell first, which means

Experiment with fillings: Sweet or savoury, open or closed, pies, tourtières, quiches or tarts—once you master pie dough there are no limits on what you can do with it.

Easy Mixer Pie Dough

Farmer’s Saskatoon Pie

Makes 3, 9-inch pie shells or 1 covered or lattice-top pie plus an extra shell. This recipe will make more than you need for our pie recipes. Pie dough can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two days or in the freezer for up to six months. You can easily halve this recipe to make exactly what you need for one pie, but because pie dough freezes so well, I always like to make the full recipe and keep the extra dough in my freezer ready to go for when I need to make dessert in a pinch.

I remember spending summers picking saskatoons at the lake with my family. I would go home with my picking bucket nearly empty as I spent most of the time just eating berries oﬀ the bushes.

We use a 9-inch pie plate (standard, not deep dish). If your pie plate is a diﬀerent size, you may need to adjust baking times accordingly; for smaller pies, be careful not to overfill the shells. You will need a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. 640

g (4 cups) all-purpose flour

226

g (1 cup) unsalted butter, in

200

This pie was inspired by farmer Wade of Berry Ridge Orchards. He came into the shop in overalls with a video of his saskatoon farm.

Pie Dough 1

batch easy mixer pie dough

large egg white

T cream

Crumble Topping 45

g (½ cup) old-fashioned rolled oats

½-inch cubes, cold

g (⅓ cup) all-purpose flour

g (1 cup) vegetable shortening, in

g (⅓ cup) firmly packed brown sugar

½-inch cubes, cold 1

tsp salt

t ground cinnamon

242

g (1 cup) ice water

g (¼ cup) unsalted butter, at

Place the flour, butter, shortening, and salt into a stand mixer bowl. Mix on low speed until the fats are in small chunks and the mixture looks a bit dry. This should only take 10 to 15 seconds. Add the ice water all at once and mix on medium speed until the dough just comes together. Some small lumps of fat should remain in the dough. Shape the dough into three balls. Wrap each ball in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, making sure the dough is fully chilled before rolling out. At this point the dough can be frozen. Let it thaw completely before using it, but when you roll it out, be sure it’s still cold.

room temperature

Combine the oats, flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a bowl, Add the butter and, using your hands, work it into the dry ingredients until large clumps form. Set aside.

Saskatoon Filling 880

g (6 cups) fresh or frozen saskatoons

T water

T fresh lemon juice

200

g (1 cup) sugar

g (⅓ cup) all-purpose flour

t ground nutmeg

T cornstarch

To make the filling, in a saucepan, combine the saskatoons, water, lemon juice, and sugar. Cook over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to simmer. Stir in the remaining ingredients and continue to cook until the mixture thickens. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Fill the shell to the rim with the saskatoon filling and generously top with crumb topping. Bake the pie for 45 to 50 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbling. Serve the pie slightly warm or let it cool completely. This pie will keep at room temperature for up to three days. Makes 1, 9-inch pie.

The Tomato | July August 2015 27

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Nature’s Nourishment Sunday, September 13 Enjoy exquisite local foods while supporting your local land trust! Delight your palate with this wine paired 5 course gourmet dinner. Each course is artfully prepared with local foods by Chef Blair Lebsack of RGE RD Restaurant.

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28 July August 2015 | The Tomato

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Viva España Wines from Spain continue to amaze due to their value and the style—a natural for the Alberta palate—fullthrottle reds with swagger, ideal with savoury dishes from the grill. Spanish reds tend to higher alcohol, 14.5 per cent and up. On hot days, plunk into the fridge for 15 minutes before serving, yes even the reds, to bring out the fruit and diminish the alcohol sensation. El Petit Bonhomme Tinto 2012 (Jumilla) $16 Tasting of juicy ripe fruit and wild herbs with just enough tannin and fresh acidity to keep it interesting. Drink with black olive tapenade on crostini. Jean Leon Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2007 (Penedes) $28 Beautifully structured, with ripe plum, spice and harmonious toasty flavours from judicious barrel aging. Drink with grilled top sirloin. The licorella (dark slate) soil, the vertiginous hills and the unique climate, hot during the day and freshened by

Mary Bailey breezes oﬀ the Mediterranean at night, give wines from the Priorat, about 1½ hours south of Barcelona, a special character—big, powerful, concentrated yet also fruity and fresh. Decant a few hours before serving to help develop the brooding flavours and compelling aromas. Finca el Puig 2010 (Priorat) $37 Old vine Grenache-dominant with Syrah, Carignan, and Cab Sauv making up the blend—notes of fig, white pepper and mineral, tasting of cherry and ripe raspberries, chunky yet balanced tannins, slightly astringent with a dusty finish. This wine adores red meats and fat— think juicy sausages charred on the grill. Grand Clos 2006 (Priorat) $61 Classic Priorat style with Grenache and Carignan dominating the blend; lots of fresh red berry notes, well-balanced acidity and silky tannins. It’s elegant structure pairs well with roast bison or beef. A tremendous value for a wine almost a decade old.

Hwy 13 Continued from page 17

Honeypot Eatery & Pub, 823 2nd Avenue, Wainwright, thehoneypot.ca Credible menu with excellent burgersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; juicy, locally-made patty with highquality toppings. The attractive secluded patio is a good break from the road. 1979 Taphouse & Grill, 1418 14 Avenue A combined restaurant nightclub and sports bar run by a well-regarded family who opened their first pizza place in 1979â&#x20AC;&#x201D;bar snacks, pizza, steak, salads and a chicken shish kebab. This place looks like it would be a lot of fun on a Saturday night.

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The Bruce Hotel, 5140 54 Street, Bruce, brucehotel.ca Wildly popular for their Friday and Saturday night buďŹ&#x20AC;ets. They are quite strict: a reservation is a must. Check the website for when you can actually make it.

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Meatco Sales, 102 17 Street, Wainwright, meatcosales.com Another reason to bring your cooler. They make the burgers for the Honey Pot.

Very Beary Honey, Township Rd 504, Tofield, bearyberryhoney.com The on-farm business makes twenty blends of flavoured honey, seven honey glazes and six vinaigrettes.

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The Tomato | July August 2015 29

10 restaurants... 5 courses... 280 people... 1 really, really long table. Blink, Catch & The Oyster Bar, Charcut Roast House, Divino, Teatro, Wine-Ohs, The Belvedere, Trib Steakhouse, Home Tasting Room and The Bank & Baron will each prepare a dish for this remarkable dinner, with wine pairings from The Cellar. A long stretch of downtown Stephen Avenue will be our venue. Gather your friends, and make some new ones at this unique event that celebrates the culinary side of Calgary. Tickets: $200pp available now: reallylongtabledinner.eventbrite.ca For hotel packages: VisitCalgary.com #capturecalgary

join us in Calgary! Monday, September 14th, 5-9 pm

city palate’s 3rd annual

Really, Really Long Table Dinner

Indulgence

Pickled Green Papaya

Continued from page 15

medium size green papaya

red bell pepper, julienned

carrot, julienned

shallots, sliced thinly crosswise

large garlic clove, sliced thinly

Tomato Sauce 1½

c chicken stock

c canned tomatoes (La Pavoncella - just saying)

t kosher salt

t black pepper

t paprika

t white sugar

t paprika

t marjoram

Place all ingredients in pot, and simmer until reduced by half, to smooth out the sauce use a stick blender. Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, Straw Man Farm Bison, 50th Parallel

Bison Top Sirloin wrapped with Bacon, with Pickled Green Papaya and Chimichurri sauce 50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Noir Chef Archimedes Cailao, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse Give your next barbecue a little Brazilian flavour with these easy to do, delicous to eat bison bites.

30 July August 2015 | The Tomato

t salt

t whole peppercorns

Pickling Solution 1

c vinegar

c white sugar

T pickling spice

t salt

Peel the papaya and discard seeds. Shred, using a vegetable grater or a cheese grater with bigger holes. Put the shredded papaya in a bowl, sprinkle with the teaspoon of salt and toss. Let sit for 30 minutes to an hour, squeeze by the handfuls, discarding the juice. In a saucepan mix together the pickling solution and bring to boil stirring until sugar and salt are completely dissolved. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Put everything in a bowl and pour the cooled pickling solution on top and mix well. Refrigerate covered and let pickle for a day or so before serving. Chimichurri Sauce 1

c lightly packed chopped parsley

Bison Top Sirloin

c lightly packed chopped arugula

lbs bison top sirloin

c lightly packed chopped cilantro

lb bacon

cloves garlic, minced

cloves chopped garlic

1½

c canola oil

t mustard

c extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

T coarse sea salt

bamboo skewers

t freshly ground black pepper

t chili pepper flakes

t habanero flakes

c red wine vinegar

c white wine vinegar

c dried oregano leaves

Soak bamboo skewers for 30 minutes in cold water.

citypalate.ca

crosswise

Cut the steak into 1-inch cubes and season. Cut bacon slices in half. Add chopped garlic and mustard and mix together. Wrap steak with bacon and skewer, 2 to 3 pieces per skewer. Grill over medium heat or cook in the oven at 350F for 10 minutes or until the bacon is crispy and the bison is medium. Serve with pickled green papaya, roasted summer vegetables and chimichurri sauce.

Combine finely chopped parsley, cilantro and arugula. Add oils. Add remaining ingredients and mix well until emulsified. Chill for 24 hours before using.

XIX Nineteen, Four Whistle Farm, Culmina Family Estate Winery

Chicken Liver Pâté with a Saskatoon Berry Gastrique Culmina Hypothesis 2012 Andrew Fung, executive chef X1X Nineteen The silkiest chicken liver mousse imaginable, and one of the most compatible pairings of the night.

Chicken Liver Mousse 4

t ground prosciutto

med onion, diced (just under a cup)

t diced shallots

scant c dry red wine

t brandy

chicken liver (approx 250 gm,

until finger-tip tight. Place jars into preheated water bath and cook for 2 hours. After 2 hours, use a digital thermometer to check the core temperature, is should be 154ºF, if not put back in the water bath and cook longer. When it reaches a core temperature of 154ºF transfer to a ice bath and chill completely. Refrigerate immediately after cooling. Chef’s note: If you don't have a sous vide machine, bake in 325ºF oven with a water bath until it reaches 154ºF (about 1.25 hours ) Once cool, spread mousse on crostini and top with Saskatoon gastrique, drizzle honey and sea salt on top. Saskatoon Berry Gastrique

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T oil

T minced shallots

T Saskatoon berries

t minced fresh thyme

rinse clean with water and

t curry powder

2015 recipient of OpenTable’s Top 100 Best Restaurants in Canada

strain)

c red wine

www.hardwaregrill.com 780.423.0969 97 Street & Jasper Avenue

whole eggs

T veal reduction

CHEF’S TABLE IN THE KITCHEN • PRIVATE CONFERENCE ROOM

egg yolk

t red wine vinegar

salt and pepper

c apple juice

1½

t whole cold butter

soaked overnight with milk,

.85 gm (0.03 oz) sweet spice mixture: (40g star anise, 16g dried ginger, 12g vanilla bean, 12g cinnamom, 6g nutmeg, 10g dried orange peel, 4g dried cloves, ground together and sifted) .9

c (7 oz) clarified butter

Sous vide: preheat a water bath to 154ºF. In a skillet over medium heat, cook prosciutto, onion, and shallot until soft. Add red wine and brandy to the pan and boil for about 1 minute. Turn oﬀ heat and rest for 10 minutes. Strain through a chinoise to extract most of the liquid. Let the liquid cool. In a blender, combine liquid with the rest of the ingredients except butter. Blend just until smooth, don't blend too long or the heat from the blender will cook the livers. Once the livers are thoroughly blended, slowly add the butter while slowly blending to keep the mixture emulsified. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Transfer the puree to mason jars. Twist the lids

Monday to Thursday 5 pm - 9:30 pm Friday and Saturday 5 pm - 6:30 pm Visit our Facebook page for weekly menus

salt and pepper

Sauté shallots and berries on medium heat until the berries begin to bleed color, add thyme and curry powder. Add wine and apple juice, veal reduction and red wine vinegar. Reduce liquid to syrup state, add cold butter. Add salt and pepper to taste.

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The Tomato | July August 2015 31

Kitchen Sink wine tastings, happenings and events Check out the Culinary Adventures at Taste of Edmonton (Churchill Square, July 16-25, tasteofedm. ca) for delectable, hands-on experiences led by some of Edmonton’s most interesting culinary personalities. On July 18 and 25, join Get Cooking’s Kathryn Joel for a Taste of the Market walking tour of the City Market, followed by a market cooking workshop, $65/person. Taste of the Cantina July 19 and 25 with chef Lindsay Porter, El Cortez Cantina, for a truly Mexican gastronomic experience, $90/person. Taste of Beef July 19 and 25 with chef Matt Phillips at Lux Steakhouse + Bar, $49/person. Taste of Chocolate July 19 and 25 with Jacqueline Jacek, Jacek Chocolate Couture, $60/person. Adventures include an all-inclusive ticket to the evening’s Sip ’n Savour Pop Up event. A special Taste edition of Get Cooking’s Edmonton Food Fight, Sunday July 19, tasteofedm.ca. The HOST Hospitality Hub debuts at Taste of Edmonton with a welcome reception on Sunday, July 19, 5pm-11pm. Take part in the seminars at The Westin Monday, July 20 to discover the latest and the greatest in wine, hospitality, and innovation. Host provides a central place for hospitality professionals to learn, share, and grow, tasteofedm.ca. Get ready for a really long table dinner—outdoor and on the field at Commonwealth Stadium. The CapitalCare Foundation’s Feast on the Field, August 12, features a classic picnic-style menu by chefs Steve Buzak (Royal Glenora Club), David Omar (Zinc) and Brad Smoliak (Kitchen by Brad)—potato salad, coleslaw, corn on the cob, baked beans, smoked brisket and barbecue chicken along with a pie bar for dessert. Tickets are $150/person at feastonthefield.com and include free parking in the northwest lot (or take the LRT). Funds raised go to support seniors in long-term care at CapitalCare facilities. Aligra Wine & Spirits (1423 West Edmonton Mall, entrance 58, 780-483-1083, aligrawineandpsirits.com) is holding a Great Canadian Wine Sale June 27-July 4 to celebrate their eighth anniversary and Canada Day. Purchase any Canadian wine and save up to 15 per cent. On July 22 enjoy a taste of Mucho Moscatos from 7-9 pm, $30/person. For all information on weekly informal tastings, visit aligrawineandpsirits.com. The Sip ’n Savour pop-ups are where the action is during Taste of Edmonton. Two not to miss; Alberta Pork’s Pork and Pinot Wednesday, July 22, with chefs David Omar, Eric Hanson, Steve Buzak, Mike Nguyen of Canteen, and Alberta Canola’s Chefs’ 32 July August 2015 | The Tomato

what’s new and notable

Favourite Family Recipes, Friday, July 24 with chefs Eric Hanson, Paul Shufelt, Doreen Prei, Evert Maris and Sheridan McLaren. See the full schedule and book tickets at tasteofedm.ca/sip-n-savour/evening-pop-ups Chef Brad Smoliak (Kitchen by Brad 10130 105 Street, 780 757-7704 kitchenbybrad.ca) creates two lovely outdoor dinners at Elk Island National Park (yes, there is a rain plan) just 35 minutes from downtown Edmonton on August 22 and September 12. Tix $135/ person, includes park admission, at kitchenbybrad.ca. July 15 is the last day for early-bird pricing for the Okanagan Food & Wine Writers Workshop September 11-13 in Kelowna. The workshop, which includes writing seminars and incredible food and wine experiences, is open to writers of all levels. Visit foodwinewriters.com for all the info. The Canadian Celiac Association (CCA) Edmonton chapter annual gluten-free pancake breakfast is at Kinnikinnick Foods (10940-120 street, 780-4242900, getitfresh.ca) 9-11am, July 18, cash only, $6/ adult, $4/children eight and under. All proceeds go to the Edmonton chapter for educational initiatives. Here’s the line up for Gold Medal Plates (Thursday October 22) Steve Buzak, Royal Glenora Club; Nathin Bye, Ampersand 27; Andrew Cowan, Pack Rat Louie; Bryan Cruz, The Marc Restaurant; Anthony Krause, The Salt Room; Corey McGuire, Tzin; Lindsay Porter, El Cortez; Paul Shufelt, Century Hospitality Group; Joe Srahulek, Chateau Lacombe Hotel; Jan Trittenbach, Solstice. Three past champs are returning to compete, Nathin Bye, Paul Shufelt, and Jan Trittenbach plus newbies Andrew Cowan, Bryan Cruz, Anthony Krause, Corey McGuire and Joe Srahulek. Gold Medal Plates has generated over $9.4 million for amateur Olympic athletes since 2004. Visit goldmedalplates.com for tix soon; Edmonton always sells out early. Sunset Soirée Sunday, July 5, 8pm, French Quarter Grand Marché, La Cité Francophone and Relish Food on Film Festival present an outdoor screening of the adorable Amélie. Make it a romantic date night; bring a blanket to enjoy a magical evening en plein air. There will be Café Bicyclette’s delicious food, French beverages from Color de Vino and live music. Tickets are $22, include a glass of wine and canapés, available at 124grandmarket.com, the 124 Grand Market, the French Quarter Grand Marché and Color de Vino. Doors open at 8pm, film at 10pm.

people Stanley Townsend, program chair of NAIT Culinary Arts, has retired. Chef Townsend was passionate about his students’ culinary education both at NAIT and through organizations as diverse as Skills Canada, the Canadian Culinary Federation’s (CCFCC) High School Culinary competition and the Toque Demagny Culinary scholarship. Stanley was inducted into the CCFCC honour society at a ceremony in St. John’s followed by a celebratory dinner prepared by chef/ owner Jeremy Charles at the excellent Raymond’s.

restaurant buzz Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com) is closed for holidays June 28-July 14. It’s not just any holiday, owners Lisa and Rosario will be married in Jasper on July 4. Cibo reopens for regular lunch and dinner service July 15. The Hardware Grill (9698 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-0969, hardwaregrill.com) is closed for their annual summer holiday until July 7, reopening for dinner July 8 at 5pm. Normand’s (11639 Jasper Avenue, 780-482-2600, normands.com) is now serving breakfast seven days a week from 8am-3pm. Hooray! Culina Mill Creek (9914 89 Avenue, 780-466-1181, culinafamily) is having some fun with their menu this summer, adding several daily and weekly dishes as the spirit moves them based on what comes to their door from their local suppliers. The new menu also features the house-cured meats chef Steven Furgieule has been developing into a line of charcuterie called FUGE Fine Meats. There is a new slate of cocktails to enjoy as well along with cocktail, wine, and beer specials oﬀered Tuesday through Saturday from 5pm-7 p.m. Let’s not forget that Culina Mill Creek has one of the sweetest patios in town. Giddy-up! The lovely secluded patio at The Glass Monkey (5842 111 Street, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) is now open, all the better to enjoy their Monday wine specials, half-price wings on Wednesday and beer and pizza specials on Thirsty Thursday. Check it out! Check out the Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street, 780-990-1938, wildfloweredmonton.com) new summer menu of lighter fare to enjoy on their lovely patio. We are big fans of the green goddess salad with quinoa on Boston bibb and the Atlantic lobster rolls.

You will now be able to use the convenient Open Table system to book dinner reservations at La Ronde in the Chateau Lacombe Hotel (10111 Bellamy Hill, 780-420-8357, chateaulacombe. com/laronde-restaurant).

pampasteakhouse.com), 10am Saturday, August 1. The class will explain how to prepare the meats, make marinades and prepare their delicious salads. Classes are intimate with eight people only, $100/person, 780-756-7030 to reserve.

Expect camera crews and gaﬀer tape around Battista’s Calzone Company (11745-84 Street, 780 458-1808, battistacalzone.com) on July 6, when the Food Network Canada’s You Gotta Eat Here tapes an episode. Co-owners Liv Vors and Battista Vecchio’s excellent calzones are now available frozen at Italian Centre Shops.

Gail Hall of Seasoned Solutions oﬀers a Market Fresh Cooking class on July 18. Find more details and the full schedule at seasonedsolutions.ca.

Urbano Pizza (in the Boardwalk, 10220 103 Street) the new concept from Sabor owners Christian Mena and chef Lino Oliviera is now open. The menu has six pizzas made in four super-fast TurboChef Fire pizza ovens to take away or to eat there (there is seating for about 20). Check out the Piri-piri chicken with chorizo, the vegan Garden Fire with peppers, portobello, eggplant, artichokes, or experiment with your own combo; $10-$12 per pie. It’s Veuve Clicquot rosé by the glass all summer long at Cavern (10169-104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca) as well as new and delicious tapas such as foie gras with triple crème brie or smoked salmon, or pequillo peppers filled with chèvre, as well as new charcuterie boards for those with lactose sensitivities. Watch for 104 Street Pairing Pop-Ups on Saturdays at Cavern with neighbouring merchants Jacek Chocolate and Evoolution.

cooking classes Taste of Edmonton (Churchill Square, July 16-25, tasteofedm.ca) oﬀers several cooking classes and demonstrations called Culinary Workshops: Backyard Grilling with chef Brad Smoliak, July 19; Butchery with Allison Thacker of Sunworks Farm Organic Meats, July 19; Fresh Pasta with chef Wendy Mah, July18. Tickets, $25/person, tasteofedm.ca. Love Brazilian barbecue? Learn how at a class in the delights of Brazilian at Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse (9929 109 Street, 780-756-7030,

ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen (main floor, 10035-105 Street, 780-420-1010, atcoblueflamekitchen. com) oﬀers Baking on the Barbecue, Thursday, July 23, 11:45am, $15/person. Have a craving for pie but don’t want to heat up the house? Why not bake it on the barbecue? Join the ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen for a Learn at Lunch session to learn how. Samples are provided but not lunch. To reserve you spot email lisa.vogel@atcogas.com.

product news The Italian Centre introduces Albertaraised Piemontese beef to their deli counters. The DenOudstons of Peony Farm near Lacombe started breeding Piemontese in the 1980s. The white cattle from northeast Italy carry a gene that creates a higher lean-to-fat ratio, with less connective tissue, but also less marbling. Body builders like the Piemontese not only because of its mild yet beefy flavour, it is also lower in calories, higher in protein, and contains a higher percentage of omega-3 fat. The Italian Centre is working with Messinger Meats in Red Deer to supply all four stores with this unique beef. Who doesn’t love bacon? The ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen has launched a free digital bacon cookbook with 10 of the Best Bacon Recipes Ever! Mmmmm Bacon. 10 of our best bacon recipes ever bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin with chorizo and bacon cheddar brioche. Download the cookbook for free from the ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen website, atcoblueflamekitchen.com. The Pan Tree (550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca) now has the Gefu Spiralfix in stock. Make zucchini ribbons for salads and pasta or spiral

cut just about any sized and shaped vegetable. Clever design, the handle and bottom piece fit inside to save cupboard space, $56. K&K Foodliner (9944 - 82 Avenue, 780-439-6913 kandkfoodliner.com) oﬀers a variety of fresh, house-made soups, salads and casseroles such as Shepard’s pie, lasagna and pot pies. Some are gluten-free and available in both individual portions and larger sizes, from $5-20. The Italian Centre’s new Calgary store (9919 Fairmount Drive, SE, Willow Park) opens July 2. We can’t wait to see it, especially the cathedral of cheese, a 13 foot high x 40 foot wide temperaturecontrolled glass showcase chock full of wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano, Piave Vecchio and the like. The new 12,000 square feet store features western Canada’s largest deli with more than 600 types of meat, cheese and antipasti, including that delicious truﬄed Pecorino from Sardinia. Store manger is Gino Marghella, who many will remember as a tyke working the deli counter at the Little Italy store.

culinary travel Gail Hall oﬀers several upcoming tours—A Taste of Alberta from Camrose to Provost, September 1213 includes a visit to the Bodo bison hunting archeological site. Portugal, October 26- November 6 explores Lisbon, Obidos, Porto the Douro Valley and Evora. South India, February 25 - March 9, 2016, explores the culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Find the details for all tours at seasonedsolutions.ca. August 22-23 is Alberta Open Farm Days, an opportunity to get out in the country, visit some farms and eat some great local food. Find the full gamut of open houses, dinners and events along with maps and directions at albertafarmdays.com. A few highlights to help you plan your weekend: The Farm Box Dinner at Ellis Bird Farm in Lacombe County features local pasture-raised meats and exceptionally fresh produce prepared by chef Blake Anderson of Terre it Up Catering,

6pm, Saturday August 22, $75/person, 403-586-4547, terreitup.com. The Multicultural Heritage Centre in Stony Plain presents Tomatoganza! Everything Tomato, Saturday, August 22, 10:30 am-2pm with a tomato plot tour, salsa competition (register at multicentre.org) along with bruschetta and gazpacho tastings. If you haven’t had a chance to visit Barr Estate Fruit Winery yet, think of going during their open house on August 23, from 10am-5pm for tours of the sheep farm and orchards. Tour of the winery and wine tasting for adults, a small fee applies, barr.ca. Rootstock a fresh field experience at Fisher Farms, Didsbury, Saturday, August 22, 5 pm, $150/person. Start the night with a mini-market, cocktails, intimate farm tour with Nolan Miller, followed by dinner. As the stars fill the sky, enjoy a high-energy performance by Cowpuncher. Proceeds raised help support We All Grow: an online agriculture learning portal initiative, fisherfarms.net. Enjoy an afternoon tea party with teas grown or foraged on the farm, along with farm-made sweet and savoury treats at the Vesta Gardens Farmed and Foraged Tea, 3pm, Sunday, August 23. Dress is garden party. Early bird tickets $35, 780-901-9506, vestagardens.castivals.com. The Prairie Gardens & Adventure Farm (Bon Accord, PrairieGardens.org) annual RgeRd Gourmet Field to Fork Harvest Dinner starts at 5pm, Sunday, August 23, $135/person. The Morinville Country Fair Farm to Table Dinner, Saturday, August 22, 5:30pm. The day starts with a free pancake breakfast and ends with the dinner and street dance. Northlands Urban Farm Dinner (northlands.com) is Sunday, August 23. The Lloydminster Agricultural Exhibition Association (306-825-5571, lloydexh.com) has theirs in a secret location, Saturday, August 22, $100/person. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

The Tomato | July August 2015 33

According to Judy

Judy Schultz

New Orleans: it ain’t that easy… We’re in New Orleans, the Big Easy, and I’m loving it. The beat, the heat, the fried artichokes, the buttery voices and honeyed accents that come with southern hospitality. On a steamy night in Preservation Hall, everybody knows the anthem. “C’mon Baby, let the good times roll!”

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July - August

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34 July August 2015 | The Tomato

But where to start? Antoine’s or Le Bayou? Kingfish or Deanie’s? Grits or gumbo? At a street festival they’re ladling bright red crawdads (crayfish, or mud bugs, if you wish) into big white bowls with sweet corn and baby potatoes, all boiled with hot peppers. “Gives them some kick,” says a customer who tears into the crays with his fingers. Shells crunch under his feet. Time to check out the rich and famous. At the Commander’s Palace, an army of servers line up at the door. “Welcome! Welcome in…” and the waiter, who oozes southern charm, knows the menu backwards, forwards and in between. He discusses macque choux and jambalaya, gumbo ya-ya and crawfish etouﬀée, “juicy crawfish tails smothered in a buttery blend of onions, peppers, celery…”

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Shades of BB King and Quincy Jones. Laissez les bon temps rouler…

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And oh, the oysters! They’re available many ways, he says, each more delicious than the last. I tell him I’ll turn blue and die if I eat just one oyster, no matter how it’s done. He expresses genuine sympathy and promises a bourbon-laced soufflé for later. Around midnight, back in the French Quarter, we find the only bar in town with NHL playoffs on a big screen. They offer ‘gator burgers and fried catfish, but we’re into overtime, the Ducks have pulled their goalie, and the suspense is just too much. Fool that I am, I order a Sazerac.

Sazerac, the quintessential Big Easy libation, starts with a glass full of ice. In a second glass, a sugar cube is dribbled with three generous dashes of Peychaud's bitters and a single drop of Angostura, then crushed with the back of a spoon. Now add two ounces of Buffalo Trace Bourbon. Toss the ice out of the first glass. Swirl the glass with the mysterious green liqueur called Absinthe, which tastes of licorice and was once outlawed for having driven several notable Frenchmen barking mad. The bartender rolls a bit of lemon peel around the rim, pours in the bourbon mixture, and says in his buttery voice, “Please enjoy.” The goalie’s back! In celebration, I suck up a big swig of my first Sazerac. Bad idea, the swig. “Enjoy sipping it,” says the bartender. “Slow-ly!” My souvenirs of the Big Easy include a CD of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band and a recipe for beignets, the fluffy, sugardusted, lighterthan-feathers fried bread this city made famous. The recipe is kindly shared by Robert, “That’s pronounced Roe-BER,” a seventhgeneration Creole food-lover and one heck of a cemetery guide. “Your basic beignet ain’t nuthin’ but a hunka dough fried in bubblin’ hot oil,” says Roe-BER. “Beignet is easy!” Yes? Note to self: simple isn’t easy. My beignets, which I made the very hour we got back, were neither light nor fluffy. The first six burned by the time I fished them out of the bubbling oil. They were still doughy-gooey in the middle. More notes to self: Let the hot oil bubble. Let the good times roll. Let a pro cook the beignets. Judy Schultz is a food and travel writer currently living in Alberta. She loves a good beignet.

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