Tomato July August 2016 by Tomato

Take a bite of your city | July August 2016 | thetomato.ca

Pulse Day The Tao of Gin Farmers’ Market Recipes Celebrating Edmonton’s

20 YEARS

Food Culture Since 1996

Find us in Downtown Edmonton at 9929 - 109TH STREET NW SEAFOOD MONDAYS, PINEAPPLE TUESDAYS, WINE WEDNESDAYS, EXOTIC MEAT THURSDAYS, HAPPY HOUR FRIDAYS, KIDS SATURDAYS, INDUSTRY SUNDAYS Join us for Happy Hour & enjoy a caipirinha (or 2) on our Brazilian Patio! Now Catering Lunch!

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Contents Features Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Pulse Day Alberta chefs trade jackets for lab coats

Publisher

at the Leduc Food Product Development Centre | Mary Bailey

BGP Publishing

Copy Editor

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Shawna Dirksen Michelle Peters-Jones Judy Schultz

Hola Mexico! The flavours of sunny Mexico in a backyard barbecue | Mary Bailey

Illustration/Photography

The Tao of Gin The preferred tipple of Queen mothers is on a roll | Mary Bailey

Curtis Comeau Photography

Design and Prepress

A Market Summer Stories and recipes from the farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets | Michelle Peters-Jones

Don Retson

Bossanova Communications Inc.

A Recipe for Indulgence Top recipes from Indulgence 2016

WebMeister Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist

Departments

Printer

5 Distribution

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Greenline Distribution For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net

12 18

January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca

What Do You Eat? Ricardo Miranda, Alberta Minister

For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

The Tomato is published six times per year:

Beer Guy The next wave | Peter Bailey

of Culture and Tourism | Shawn Dirksen

Wine Maven Mary Bailey

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Oscar Lopez, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse

Kitchen Sink Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new and notable

According to Judy Ladiees and Gen-tel-men! | Judy Schultz

Cover photo: Chefs Doreen Prei, Christine Sandford and Lindsay Porter at the Leduc Food Product Development Centre, Mary Bailey photo.

The Tomato | July August 2016 3

Gathering family and friends together since 1959.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. CafĂŠ.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

italiancentre.ca

CALGARY Willow Park

Dish

gastronomic happenings around town the Harvest Food Festival at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village on September 11. Check out the full array at goeastofedmonton.com.

fly little bird fly Uccellino, the newest member of the Daniel Costa family, is now open. The spare, modern, multi-level design is generations removed from the red-checked tablecloth, yet the gastronomic inspiration is pure and timeless Roman trattoria—the crispy fried artichokes, cacio e pepe, and savoury octopus would not be out of place in Trastevere. Christopher Hyde is the chef. There are plans for all day service (espresso in the am, yes please!) but right now it’s dinner only 5pm11pm Wednesday through Sunday. Reservations are recommended, especially at peak periods. Exceptional wine list, exceptionally well-priced. CRAFT Uccellino, 10349 Jasper Avenue, 780-426-0346.

everything is coming up roses

SIPPIN’ A ALBERT

TRAIL BEVER AGE

if you love spritz like we love spritz

sip your way around alberta

There are only a couple of rules to follow when it comes to enjoying a spritz—it has to have bubbles, it should be low in alcohol and the time to drink it is between the end of the work day and dinner. While the Aperol Spritz has become the standard bearer for the category, the spritz is more about a feeling and an attitude than one specific cocktail.

Curious about the burgeoning craft beer scene? Want to experience a distillery tour? Crazy about mead? Find all 32 Alberta craft breweries, fruit wineries, distilleries and meaderies in the Sippin’ Alberta Craft Beverage Trail Guide available for download at albertaculinary.com. The handy guide divides the province into six regions and oﬀers hours of operations, directions and tour info, along with stories about the makers and their products. The print version will be available at Visitor Information Centres, at all stops along the trail and also in some liquor stores. Check it out!

You’ll learn this and many other fascinating things about northern Italy’s liquid contribution to convivial relaxation in the new book Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes by Talia Baiocchi, Leslie Pariseau, Ten Speed Press.

things go better with ruinart Tricia Bell loves champagne and most of all she loves Ruinart. “It’s now owned by a large luxury brand but it is kind of the indie darling of that group,” she says. “I love its pure elegance and style. We want to let people come to know it and love it.” The iconic wine has been available by the glass (and bottle) at The Cavern for a few months. What’s the best cheese to serve with it? “No question, Prestige de Bourgogne triple crème.” We’ll second that. The Cavern, 10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca.

Even if you knew all that already, find 50 recipes for regional specialties and delicious nibbles to have with them, all to turn your aperitivo hour into a slice of Italy you can enjoy right here, right now.

rob tyron wants to be your seafood dude

go east of edmonton Enjoy a summer brimming with culinary extravaganzas east of Edmonton: Pysanka Festival in Vegreville, July 1-3; Savour Strathcona County, July 10; Bears & Berries Festival in Ft. George and Buckingham House, July 16; Taste of Wainwright, July 21; the Bison Festival in Elk Island National Park, August 13; the Country Roots Tour in the Flagstaﬀ region, August 19; Babas & Borshch Ukrainian Festival in Andrew, August 20-21; the Great Alberta Potato Derby (Victoria Settlement), August 21 and

This refreshing blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah from Gérard Bertrand in the Languedoc comes in the prettiest bottle—an attractive curvy shape with a base in the shape of a rose, finished oﬀ with an elegant glass closure—created by a young designer from the prestigious Ecole Boulle art school in Paris. Côte des Roses Rosé, around $25 in better wine shops, destined to be the wedding wine of the season.

From top left: delicious fried artichokes at Uccellino; 2014 Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Rosé, Languedoc, France; The Sippin’ Alberta Guide; Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail; Cavern proprietor Tricia Bell with pal Allan Linklater, MacEwan University; Effing Rob over oysters at The Cavern; kubasa and sauerkraut at the Ukrainian Cultural Village.

Eﬃng Rob (to his friends) is the hardest working oysterman in the business. Most nights you’ll find him shucking somewhere; during happy hour at x1x Nineteen; at a demo class at Get Cooking; at the Southwest or St. Albert farmers’ markets. Last month he was telling oyster stories at The Cavern. Whether it’s sturgeon roe from the east coast (available by pre-order at the Italian Centre shops) or fresh clams and fish from the west; if it’s seafood, Rob is ready to sell it to you, giant grin on the side, eﬃngseafoods.com.

The Tomato | July August 2016 5

Mary Bailey

Pulse Day

Photo courtesy Alberta Pulse Growers

Alberta chefs trade jackets for lab coats at the Leduc Food Product Development Centre.

6 July August 2016 | The Tomato

2016 has been designated the International Year of Pulses (IYP) Chances are that can of chickpeas or bag of split peas you picked up at the grocery store contains pulses grown an hour away. Nutritious, tasty and cheap, pulses, aka beans, peas and lentils, are eaten the world over. So why do they have such a low profile here? Canada is the largest exporter of pulses in the world. Peas are ideally suited for the Peace region and central Alberta, where millions of tonnes grow across two million acres of farmland. But even though pulses are considered a commodity crop—it’s unlikely you’ll find them at the farmers’ market for example—local growers want to make sure they are on our radar. What better way to do that than to invite chefs to create some delicious dishes? The Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance along with Alberta Pulse Growers set up a professional development day for 10 chefs; a visit to a farm to see yellow pea seedlings (three inches high, just starting to unfurl their tendrils) followed by lunch at Eco Café (tasty beet/chickpea hummous, lentil flatbreads) and an afternoon at the Leduc Food Product Development Centre (FPDC). The purpose? To introduce the chefs to the idea of creating a food item featuring pulses that could be scaled up and sold far beyond their restaurants. One of the chefs, Brad Smoliak, is a research chef who has worked on several projects at FPDC. “There is nothing like the product development centre in Canada. It’s world class,” says Brad. “Edmonton and Alberta could be a food processing capital. We have everything here, we have the chefs, we have the university, we have this plant, we have the environment for business and we have entrepreneurs. We just need to start working together.” The chefs did not disappoint. Doreen Prei, Get Cooking, crafted a sophisticated pea soup with quail egg; Christine Sandford, Staﬀ Meal and Acme Meat Shop, a deeply-flavoured split pea miso soup; Brad Smoliak, Kitchen by

Brad, created a bright quinoa and bean salad and Lindsay Porter, El Cortez, a toothsome chicken and black bean enchilada. Melanie Hennessey from Calgary’s Winsport brought the gluten-free chocolate cookie created by their executive chef Liana Robberecht. Andrea Harling, Made Foods, a red lentil cracker, with smoked hummus and a sprouted lentil salad; Kerry Bennett, Care Bakery, a gluten-free chocolate coﬀee macaron; Maria Besuijen, Salad & Fork, pulse pyrohy and Sean Cutler of the Kensington Riverside Inn Chef ’s Table made a savoury duck cassoulet. Chef Sandford’s miso was a most intriguing dish—fermentation being a source of fascination for many these days. Leduc’s food scientists thought it might be too gnarly for them; the six-month fermentation required for traditional miso being beyond the scope of the facility at this time. Another dish that resonated was chef Bennett’s glutenfree macaron, which she made with the leftover liquid from a can of chickpeas, another buzzy culinary topic (see sidebar next page).

DIFFTF t XJOF CFFS t FTQSFTTP

Summer Picnic Select Your Favourites From Cavern Retail Collection or Cavern Picnic Box Menu 10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG

In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing • Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience • Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850

After the tasting and tour of the facility, FPDC’s food scientists walked the group through what it takes to commercialize a product. A few days later each chef received an evaluation of their dish, how suitable it might be for scale-up or what they would need to do to make it suitable, based on food safety, shelf life and freezability, packaging and equipment necessary. Not all chefs want to make food products for the grocery store, but it was a fascinating look into how it’s done. “I was really blown away by the experience,” said Lindsay. “I had no idea a production plant of this magnitude was right outside on our doorstep and the pulse program was impressive to see. It’s a great opportunity and I want to seriously take a look at pursuing it.”

Please see “Pulse Recipes” on page 8

Your LOCAL choice for Gluten Free since 1991

Gluten Free, Fresh 10940 - 120 Street Open Tuesday to Saturday www.GetItFresh.ca 780-732-7527 GLUTEN FREE HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD®

The Tomato | July August 2016 7

Pulse Recipes Continued from page 7

The Fabulous Aquafaba Black Bean, Pinto and Chicken Enchiladas with a Creamy Verde Sauce and Homemade Garbanzo Bean Tortillas Lindsay Porter, el Cortez Chef Porter made a savoury chicken enchilada with black and pinto beans as well as garbanzo beans in the tortilla. Wouldn’t you love to be able to pick these up in the frozen foods aisle!

That thick greyish substance you have been putting down the drain every time you opened a can of chick peas? Turns out it is a simple-touse egg substitute, coming soon to a food product near you. Bean water as egg substitute started with an experiment by French tenor Joël Roessel. American software engineer Goose Wohlt furthered the idea and coined the word aquafaba. The food scientists at Leduc say the way the proteins and starch are suspended in the liquid is what makes it all work. Now, people are using it for mayonnaise substitutes, in baking, anywhere you would use an egg. An American company is making a vegan mayonnaise from the waste bean water of a nearby hummous manufacturer. Kerry Bennett of Calgary’s Care Bakery is developing a gluten-free vegan macaron. Do try this at home:

You could buy 6-inch tortillas if you don’t want to make your own.

Aquafaba Meringues

Black Beans, Pinto Beans and Chicken Mixture ½c

black beans

½c

pinto beans

2 whole

chicken breasts

chili powder

ancho powder

canola oil

red pepper, chopped into large chunks

jalapeño

6 cloves garlic, whole ½

red onion, chopped into large chunks

1½ c

Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

Follow the same rules you would for egg-white meringues to make the aquafaba version. Start with room-temperature chick pea liquid and add the sugar slowly. Recipe courtesy The New York Times.

Once beans are mashed and chicken and vegetables are cooked, let both cool down enough to handle. Chop the chicken and vegetables altogether, leaving jalapeño seeds inside the mix for a bit of spice.

8 July August 2016 | The Tomato

½c

cream cheese

¼c

cream

3 cloves garlic 3 stalks

mint

3 stalks

parsley

4 stalks

cilantro

jalapeño, seeds taken out

tomatillos

green onion

of honey salt and pepper

Rough chop all vegetables and herbs and place all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste. Reserve.

15-ounce can of chickpeas at room temperature

Chick Pea Tortillas

⅔c

granulated sugar

⅔c

almond extract

Bob’s Red Mill garbanzo (chick pea) flour

⅓c

wheat flour

lard

salt

½c

warm water (may need extra)

Heat oven to 250ºF. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Drain the chickpeas, reserving the bean liquid (aquafaba). You should have about ¾ cup liquid. (Save chickpeas for another use.) Pour liquid into the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on high speed with the whisk attachment until stiﬀ peaks form, about 15 minutes. Add the sugar, one heaping tablespoon at a time, and whisk until the mixture is glossy, then add the almond extract. Use a tablespoon to scoop the aquafaba mixture into mounds on the baking sheets. Bake for 1½ to 2 hours or until the meringues are dry and firm to the touch. Let meringues cool before serving. Meringues will keep in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days.

DIY Vegan Mayonnaise

salt and pepper

Rub the chicken with the chili powders and salt, and sear oﬀ in oil in a hot cast iron pan. Add jalapeño, red pepper, garlic cloves and red onion to the same pan and cook until chicken is cooked throughout and vegetables are soft and slightly blackened on the outside.

Creamy Verde Sauce

¼ bunch cilantro, chopped

Soak the black beans overnight, drain liquid and rinse with cold running water. Cook on the stovetop with water, 1 tablespoon of oil and salt for 45-60 minutes. Once finished, strain and mash until half of the beans are mashed up and half are still intact.

Mix the chicken mixture into the beans with 1 cup of cheese and cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Reserve.

Recipe courtesy The New York Times. 1

15-ounce can of chickpeas

white vinegar

½t

fine salt

½t

sugar

lemon juice

dry mustard

¾c

sunflower oil

Drain the chickpeas, reserving the bean liquid. (Save chickpeas for another use.) Measure out ¼ cup of the bean liquid in a large glass measuring cup or bowl. Add vinegar, salt, sugar, lemon juice and dry mustard. Using an immersion blender, mix until combined. With the blender running, very slowly drizzle in the oil in a thin stream. It should take 4 to 5 minutes to add all of the oil. The mixture will emulsify and thicken.

In a mixing bowl combine the two flours and mix together with salt and lard. Combine until just mixed and there are no large clumps of fat. Slowly add the water and mix until a smooth ball forms and starts to pull away from the bowl. The dough needs to be wet enough so it doesn’t fall apart and crack but not wet enough that it doesn’t ball together and pull away from the bowl. Either add more water or add more flour depending. Take the dough ball from the bowl and make 6-7 balls (or use a 2-oz scoop). Using a hand-held tortilla press, place two saran wrap strips or parchment paper over the presses with the ball of dough between. Press to a size of approximately 6 inches. Heat a fry pan on medium heat. Place the pressed tortilla on the pan and cook until it just begins to puﬀ. Reserve until all tortillas are cooked. To assemble: Preheat oven to 350ºF. Fill the tortilla shells with the chicken filling and roll the shell as tightly as possible. Place enchiladas in a baking dish or a

large pan and top with verde cream and remaining cheese. Bake in the oven for about 25 minutes. Take out of the oven and using an oﬀset spatula, scoop enchiladas onto a plate. Makes 6-7 enchiladas.

Bean-o-ua Salad Brad Smoliak, Kitchen by Brad

Chocolate Cricket Lentil Cookie Liana Robberecht, executive chef of Winsport, developed this cookie after a challenge to use cricket flour. “I had a vision of creating a cookie or bar that would be healthy, gluten-free and with the additional protein of the cricket flour. Cricket flour is a growing niche market as people are looking more and more for alternative protein sources.” –chef Liana Robberecht. 2c

chickpea flour

½c

cricket flour (optional, if unavailable use another ½ cup of chickpea flour or brown rice protein flour

½t

baking soda

½c

dark cocoa powder

1½ t

salt

cinnamon

Soak beans overnight, drain and cook for 1½-2 hours or until tender

½T

allspice

⅛c

ground flax seeds

Drain, rinse, then chill.

⅛c

salted hemp seeds

½c

pumpkin seeds

½c

dark chocolate chips

½c

raisins

½c

cranberries

soft dates (microwave for 2 minutes to soften, then mash while still hot)

cooked and pureed red lentils

maple syrup

ginger

“This recipe is more of a method than a specific recipe. Use whatever is fresh from the market, green onions, tomatoes, peas, green beans, squash, fresh herbs. Basically, use an equal amount of beans by volume; 1 cup each chickpeas, black beans, navy beans or whatever your favourites are. Make sure to soak and cook separately as beans cook for diﬀerent times.” – chef Brad Smoliak.

Make equal amount of quinoa according to package directions. Make honey mustard dressing (below). There may be more than you need. It will keep up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Mix dressing, vegetables and dressing together, season with salt and pepper. Let sit for an hour in the refrigerator before serving.

Honey Mustard Dressing

zest of 1 orange

½c

sherry vinegar

¼c

honey

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

fresh garlic

¼c

grainy mustard

¼c

chopped rough fresh dill

1½ t

salt

Combine the flour, baking soda, cocoa powder, salt, cinnamon, allspice, ground flax, hemp seeds, pumpkin seeds and chocolate chips in a bowl and mix.

½t

pepper

1½ c sunflower oil ¼c

water

Place vinegar, honey, garlic, mustard, salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons fresh dill in a blender. Blend for a few seconds. Slowly add sunflower oil in small drizzle until dressing becomes emulsified. Add water and blend for a few more seconds. Remove from blender and stir in remaining 2 tablespoons of fresh chopped dill. Find lots more pulse recipes at pulse.ab.ca –ed.

dark chocolate Callebaut callets

Add the raisins, cranberries, dates, lentil puree, maple syrup, ginger, orange zest and callets. Mix until combined. Use a 1-oz scoop or weigh scale to portion the batter. Place the mounds of cookie dough onto a parchment-lined or nonstick baking sheet, ½-inch apart. Press the top of each cookie to flatten a bit and bake for 7 minutes. Remove the cookies to a rack and cool. Store in an airtight container if eating within a few days, otherwise, they freeze well.

you say,

tomato we say,

gin! 780-455-4556

11819 St. Albert Trail | sherbrookeliq uor.com

Makes 65 cookies. Mary Bailey likes her lentil soup with lots of lemon.

The Tomato | July August 2016 9

A market Michelle Peters-Jones

summer

My family and I moved to Edmonton in February, just over six years ago. As we were moving, we heard a lot of stories about how gorgeous summers here are, but let’s face it, when you’re dealing with sub-zero temperatures for the first time in your life, it is really hard to imagine a bright, sunny, hot summer with green trees, fragrant flowers and farmers’ markets with an abundance of produce. I might have even asked, in shock after a late May snowstorm, if the snow would ever melt and go away.

Turns out ‘they’ were right, summer did arrive in all its glory, and my tropical soul started rejoicing. I still remember my first trip down to the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market. It was a sunny Saturday, and accompanied by my bouncing three year old, we walked to the market. As we got near, I started seeing people carrying back fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplants, and before I knew it, I was walking through the stalls, marvelling at everything that I never thought I’d get in Edmonton. Fresh and colourful produce heaped on pallets and the hustle and bustle of the market reminded me so much of my beloved outdoor Indian markets, albeit more polite and with less yelling and bargaining. After that first trip, I’ve made many, many more trips to the markets, delighting at the urban City Market, and looking forward to the others opening up almost yearly. I am always guaranteed to find vendors I love and visit, shooting the breeze as well as learning so much about their lives. For me, summer cooking is light and easy, relying on the fresh produce and meats from the markets, and making sure that these ingredients shine. I love being inspired by my own culture, and those in which I have travelled, bringing together local

10 July August 2016 | The Tomato

flavours with global flair. Summers are also about parties and drinks and lounging with friends in back gardens, and the recipes I have here reflect my favourite season of the year. As much as Edmonton would like to call itself a winter city, summer is really where it’s at. As it should be!

Serben’s Organic Farms I am always curious about farms that have been in the same family for decades. Serben’s Organic Farms, previously Serben’s Free Range, is now currently in the fifth generation. I asked Julia, one of the owners of the farm, if she saw the farm passing into the sixth generation (she and Jerod, her husband, have three kids.) She laughed—her four-yearold boy definitely wants to take over the farm, she says. Though his real ambition is to be a zookeeper, I guess that’s not so much diﬀerent from being a farmer now, eh? Serben’s Organic Farms went organic a few years ago, and the owners, Julia and Jerod believe that was the best decision they’ve made. It’s not always easy to be certified organic. Their farm is inspected regularly, they have a defined set of rules, and the hogs they raise are provided an organic diet. Julia readily admits that it is more expensive to run an organic farm, but as she puts it, the response from their customers has been worth the eﬀort. She talks to me about their vision, a vision they’ve had for a while, of making sure that everything they do on the farm is transparent and earth friendly. Jerod and Julia are particularly excited about their new processing facility on the farm, which gives them control over their pork products and the ability to give customers exactly

what they want. Originally Serben’s also raised poultry and lamb, but they cut down on their species to adhere to the organic status and now only raise hogs and eggs. As for challenges, well, Serben’s is a family farm, and Julia reckons that they face the same as any small business would. With just a few of them working the farm, they work long, hard hours with not many breaks, necessary to keep the farm going. They do love coming to the market however, rain or shine (Jerod was warming up in the van while I talked to Julia), as they get a chance to interact with their customers and get feedback on their products.

Goan-Spiced Pork Pies To make the best use of the delicious, flavourpacked pork from Serben’s Organic Farm, I decided to incorporate my own heritage into this recipe. Growing up on the edges of Goan culture, pork has always been an important protein in our diet. Goan food has several pork recipes, from the traditional vindaloo, to a sweeter, pickled version called indad, and a long, slow cooked curry, the bafat. When the Portuguese colonized Goa, they brought with them many of their own dishes, which were then adapted by the Goans with spices and heat. These pork pies, also called empadinhas, are a classic combination of Portuguese and Goan culinary traditions. Spicy, tangy pork is encased in buttery puﬀ pastry, making for the perfect appetizer or light lunch. The Goans would serve this with their local tipple, a small shot of cashew fruit liqueur called feni, but you can spare yourself that taste, and serve these pies as appetizers at a garden party, pairing them with a chilled gin and tonic with a twist of lime. 500 g

ground pork

canola oil

1 small

onion, finely chopped

1" nub

ginger, grated

4 cloves

garlic, crushed

red or green hot bird’s eye chile, finely chopped

red wine vinegar, plus extra to taste

¼c

hot water

sugar, or to taste salt to taste

4 sheets

pre-rolled puff pastry

egg, beaten

Spice Mix 5

cloves, whole

peppercorns

whole cumin

½t

ground cinnamon

mild cayenne pepper (to taste)

sweet paprika

Make the spice mix. Place the cloves, peppercorns and whole cumin in a small pan and toast them, tossing together, for about 30 seconds, until warm. Add the remaining spices, transfer to a spice blender and blend to a fine powder. Set aside. In a heavy pan add the oil over medium-high heat, sauté the onion for 5-7 minutes until it begins to brown around the edges. Add the ginger, garlic and chile and sauté for another minute or so until the garlic is fragrant. Add the spice mix, and stir gently for 3-4 minutes adding a couple tablespoons of water if the mixture seems too dry. Mix in the ground pork and red wine vinegar and sauté for about 10 minutes, until the pork is cooked, adding more water if the pork is too dry. Season to taste with salt and the sugar. The mixture should be tangy and spicy with a hint of sweetness. Let this mixture cool completely, or refrigerate overnight. When ready to make the pies line a baking tray with parchment paper. Using a cookie cutter, cut out rounds of the puﬀ pastry. Place half the rounds on the baking tray and spoon a little filling into the middle of each round and brush with a little egg wash around the edges.

FOR A LIFETIME OF DELICIOUS COOKING

Carefully place another round of pastry on top of the filling and press gently around the edges to seal. Brush more egg wash over the pies being careful not to leave drips. Use a sharp knife to make a small hole in the centre to let the steam escape. Chill the prepared pies. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425ºF. Bake the pies for 15-20 minutes until the pastry has risen and is golden brown.

Available at The Pan Tree

Serve warm or cold.

On the corner of Lakeland Dr. and Broadmoor Blvd

Makes 10-12 small pies.

780.464.4631 www.thepantree.ca 220 Lakeland Dr., Sherwood Park

@PanTreeKitchen

/ThePanTree

Please see “Market” on page 30.

The Tomato | July August 2016 11

Beer Guy The Next Wave

SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton

We’ve always had the ingredients for a vibrant craft beer scene in Alberta: world-class barley and malt; clean, pure water; smart, entrepreneurial people who build things and a young, thirsty populace. The first wave of pioneering microbreweries like Big Rock and Alley Kat showed the way, educating a skeptical province of lager drinkers about dark beer and the pleasures of bitterness. But as other regional beer scenes such as British Columbia’s gained momentum, Alberta’s fell behind. With access to hundreds of diﬀerent beers from around the world, we’ve been drinking other peoples’ local beers instead of our own. Now, finally, the pieces are falling into place. Alberta craft beer is having a moment. And if things continue to grow, this moment could become a wave. A couple of new ingredients have proven crucial to making the Alberta craft beer recipe work. First, the start of Olds College’s brewing education program in 2013 has fed trained brewmasters into the industry. You can find Olds’ grads throughout Alberta craft beer. Second, the lowering of the minimum brewing capacity regulation by the province in 2013 has been crucial in encouraging enthusiastic amateurs to make the leap to become professional brewers. This new wave is made of people like brothers Charlie and Graeme Bredo, who founded Troubled Monk Brewing in Red Deer in 2015. “We had always been beer lovers and craft brewers,” Charlie says. “But when they changed the laws it made it practical for us to start.” Their head brewer Garret Haynes is from the first graduating class of the

12 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Olds College brewing program. Haynes and the Bredos are brewing world-class beer. When I tried their Pesky Pig Pale Ale I thought, ‘these guys are the real deal.’ I’m not alone in my opinion. This May, at the World Beer Cup in Philadelphia, Troubled Monk’s Open Road American Brown Ale won a silver medal, finishing ahead of 79 brown ales from around the world. Troubled Monk’s ace in the hole is the world-beating barley of Central Alberta. Most of this barley goes to two big Alberta malting plants, Rahr Malting in Alix and Canada Malting in Calgary, where it becomes malt for beer around the world. But an exciting local development occurred this year with the launch of Red Shed Malting by the Hamill family. The family has been growing barley near Red Deer since 1929, sending their crop (like everyone else) to the two big plants. A couple of years ago, inspired by his own homebrewing experience, Joe Hamill coaxed the family into becoming maltsters themselves, with the goal of supplying the craft beer industry with unique quality malts. A craft maltster, as it were. Troubled Monk used Red Shed’s first production malt in their Insomniac IPA this May and they tell me that they will “absolutely” be using more in the future. Red Shed’s Hamill talks of making malt traceable, “to make a truly local pint possible, where the person enjoying the beer can trace its history from field to glass.” We’re talking beer terroir here, knowing the farm and the field where your beer began. With Red Shed, Troubled Monk, Something Brewing (Red Deer) and Blindman Brewing (Lacombe), we have the beginnings of a Central Alberta beer destination. Look out Okanagan Valley!

Peter Bailey

Next Wave Six-Pack Relaxed brewing regulations in 2013 allowed brewery tasting rooms and taprooms to grow. Check out the Sippin’ Alberta Craft Beverage Trail Guide available on the Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance web site (albertaculinary.com) and take a summer road trip to try these beers at the breweries. Most are also available at better beer shops.

GP Brewing Blowout Stout, Grande Prairie They’re an independent, self-reliant bunch up in the Peace Country and GP Brewing reflects that ethos. By 2017, they aim to use 100 per cent Peace Country barley in their beer, what they call farm2can. Brewmaster Jim Lague, an Olds College grad, has created a chewy English-style stout with a touch of sweet chocolate and coﬀee flavour.

Bench Creek Naked Woodsman Pale Ale, Edson Andrew Kulynych wants Edson to be more than a place to stop for coffee on the way to Jasper. Located in the deep woods north of Edson, he hopes Bench Creek can be a rural destination brewery. Naked Woodsman is a nicely bitter and easily quaffable American pale ale. Be sure to ask them the story behind the name when you stop off at the taproom.

FLAVOURFULLY IMAGINED

Locally Immersed Innovative Dining Open Now

ampersand27.com

Blindman River Session Ale, Lacombe Blindman Brewing co-founder Hans Doef is a member of the Doef ’s Greenhouse family, so knows a thing or two about local food. Now he has gathered a gang of beer geeks around him with a goal to brew the best beer in Alberta. River Session Ale is Blindman’s flagship beer, what Doef calls “an accommodating beer for both crafties and non-crafties alike.”

Troubled Monk Open Road American Brown Ale, Red Deer Brewmaster Garret Haynes shows a deft hand in brewing a subtle, nuanced beer that reveals its complexity in the glass. The beer that won Troubled Monk a silver medal at the World Beer Cup is a brown ale— balanced, nutty and malty with a light touch of fruit and citrus from the Cascade and Mt. Hood hops.

Two Sergeants Bangalore Torpedo IPA, Fort Sask. Two Sergeants is Fort Saskatchewan’s very first brewery, founded in 2015 by Kevin Moore and Keith Edwards, two retired veterans with 46 years experience in the armed forces between them. Their flagship beer is a big, aggressive, yet drinkable IPA with an eye-watering bitterness of 100 IBU and 7.4 per cent alcohol.

Situation Brewing Afternooner Tea Saison, Edmonton Situation Brewing founder Wayne Sheridan has launched something that was sorely needed on the Edmonton beer scene—a brewpub/brewery committed to not only brewing great beer but to upping the craft beer game in Edmonton. Case in point, this delightful saison infused with mango Oolong tea, a fruity yet tannic-dry beer perfect for summer quaﬃng. Peter Bailey will see you down the road this summer. He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian.

The Tomato | July August 2016 13

Hola

MĂŠxico! The sunny flavours of Mexico are ideal for a backyard barbecue on a summery Alberta evening. Start with seafood ceviche and braised pork tacos, then continue with grilled beef in adobo, corn, grilled salmon. Finish with grilled fruit and a boozy popsicle.

14 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Seabass Ceviche

Slow Braised Pork Shoulder Rub

Chef Edgar Gutierrez, Rostizado

green chilis, dried

cumin

salt

black peppercorns

coriander seeds

fresh lime juice

1½ c

fresh orange juice

habañero chiles, stemmed, seeded and chopped

kosher salt

3 leaves

mint, chopped

5 fronds

cilantro, finely chopped leaves and stems, divide into two parts

1 lb 3

seabass (raw, sushi grade) trimmed and sliced orange segments

Combine lime juice, habañero, one part cilantro and salt in a large bowl and mix thoroughly but gently. This mixture may be stored up to 3 days. Add fish and marinate for at least 2 hours before portioning. Add orange segments, mint and remaining part cilantro to garnish. Serve with tortilla chips. Serves 4 as an appetizer.

Carnitas (Braised Pork Tacos) Chef Kate Symes, The Fairmont Banﬀ Springs

Make the rub, braise the pork, make the salsa, assemble the crema and the garnishes, then top warmed tortillas. 16

8” flour tortillas

1 kg

braised pork shoulder (recipe below)

½c

crema (half and half mixture of heavy cream and sour cream plus salt)

½c

salsa (recipe below)

radishes, sliced thin, for garnish

jalapeño, seeded and diced small, for garnish

red onion, sliced very thin, for garnish

16 sprigs

cilantro, for garnish

lime, cut into 8 pieces, for garnish

What to Drink The bright citrusy flavours and heat of Mexican-inspired dishes pair well with a cold hoppy beer. Crisp whites, rosé, and lighter reds also fit the bill. As spicy food can unbalance a wine in short order, stick to wines with lots of fruit, little or no obvious oak, lower alcohol, a crisp acidity and even a little sweetness. Riesling, or a versatile red such as Joie Farm’s PTG, are ideal.

Combine all the dried spices. Blitz to a fine powder.

1 kg

pork shoulder

And, of course, tequila and mescal. Since we are all responsible adults we’ll leave the shots for another day; a jug of margaritas or palomas is the way to go— there’s no better way to start the evening. Use the best quality 100 per cent agave tequila blanco or mezcal you can find. Don’t try to make these drinks without salt—it’s an essential part of the flavour profile.

spice rub

onion, chopped

4 cloves

garlic

carrot, chopped

jalapeños

litre chicken stock

Judith’s Frozen Margarita Blender drinks go in and out of fashion. Currently they are…. in? Who cares, there’s nothing better on a hot day. Limes in Mexico grow everywhere—deep green, quite small, thinskinned, not super juicy and a bit sweeter than the limes we buy here. They take forever to juice. Judith, the lady who helped us around the house I rented with some friends this winter, had a delicious solution. She washed a handful of limes, whacked them with a knife, then popped the fruit in the blender, skins and all. The slight bitterness of the pith and the fragrant oils from the skin oﬀset the sweeter juice and added some texture to the drink. 1c

tequila blanco

7-10

small Mexican limes, halved

1 shake

salt

¼c

Curacao

Pulse until the ice is well-distributed, then blend until thick. Pour into cocktail glasses rimmed with salt. Makes 4-6 drinks.

ice to the top of the blender

The Paloma The Paloma is usually a long drink —tequila topped with Jarritos Toronja (fizzy Mexican grapefuit soda) with a dash of salt. You can get fancy and make like a margarita with fresh grapefruit juice and simple syrup. ¼c

fresh grapefruit juice

fresh lime juice

simple syrup

¼c

mescal or tequila

¼c

club soda

Build over ice and serve in a salt-rimmed glass. Garnish with a grapefruit wedge. Makes 2 drinks.

Citrus is not at it’s best in Edmonton in the summer. What to do? Use a readymade syrup. These two artisan syrups will take your Paloma, or any drink for that matter, up a level. Experiment with the proportions, but each bottle will make approximately 15 drinks, depending on taste.

Upson’s Classic Lavender Grapefruit Cordial Made right here in Edmonton. Mix with soda for a summery lemonade, a flowery gin for a lovely cocktail or with tequila or mezcal for a fresh take on the Paloma.

Bittermilk #5 Charred Grapefruit Tonic This makes a fantastic gin and tonic and an even more delicious Paloma: 1 part mezcal or tequila, 1 part soda, 1 part Bittermilk #5. Build over ice, serve in a salt-rimmed glass and garnish with a grapefruit wedge.

Mary Bailey, DWS

Slow Braised Pork Shoulder

Season the pork shoulder with the rub, it should be rubbed over all the meat. In a large pan with canola oil, sear oﬀ the pork shoulder on all sides and put into a large roasting pan. Lightly brown the onions, carrots and garlic in the same pan you seared the pork shoulder in. Add to the roasting pan with the jalapenos cut in half, lengthwise. Bring the stock to a simmer in the same pot and pour it over the pork shoulder in the roasting pan. Cover the roasting pan with aluminum foil and put it into the oven at a low temperature, 250F for 8-12 hours. Once the pork shoulder is nice and soft, remove it from the oven, take out of the liquid and let it cool. Take a fork and shred the meat. Meanwhile, reduce the liquid with all of the vegetables still in it to a thick glaze. Season the liquid as needed, but wait until the end as the flavours will get stronger as it reduces. Strain the liquid and combine with the shredded pork.

Salsa 1 kg

tomatoes

small onion

jalapeño

3 cloves

garlic

1 sml bunch cilantro 1T

lime juice salt to taste

Quarter the tomatoes, finely dice the onions and jalapeños, mix together in a roasting pan. Roast in the oven for 10-15 minutes on high heat to char the Please see “Mexico” on page 18

The Tomato | July August 2016 15

Mexico Continued from page 17

tomatoes. Add finely diced garlic. Pulse in the food processor but do not over blend, leave it chunky. Season with salt as needed and add the chopped cilantro and lime juice. To serve: Warm the flour tortillas on a grill or in a pan. Place warm braised pork shoulder on each and top with the crema, salsa and garnishes. You will have extra-braised pork shoulder but you really can never have too much braised pork shoulder. Serves 8.

Adobo Rojo (marinade for meat or fish) Chef Israel Alvarez, Comal Mexican Table Chef Alvarez’s background includes sous chef at Mexico City’s Pujol (ranked #16, World’s 50 Best Restaurants) and teaching cooking classes at Get Cooking. His most recent project is the Comal Mexican Table, a series of pop-up dinners. “This preparation is an ancient method which adds rich flavours and tenderizes. For quick grilling I recommend skirt steak, flank steak, top sirloin or rib eye. For grilling chicken use a whole one and grill it butterfly style. This recipe can also be used for cooking larger cuts of meat in a crockpot or to make pulled brisket or lamb. Life shelf in the fridge is 1½ weeks, frozen, four months or more. Enjoy it with a dark beer, your favourite pico de gallo salsa, guacamole and fresh corn tortillas.” –Israel Alvarez. 12

guajillo chile, cleaned, slit open, seeded

mulato chile, cleaned, slit open, seeded

chile water for blending (see recipe instructions)

red onion

7 cloves

garlic, peeled

¼c

apple cider vinegar

kosher salt

cane sugar

½t

toasted ground cumin

½T

Mexican oregano

Preheat a pan over medium-low heat, and toast the chiles 2 or 3 at the time, turning them over and pressing down on them frequently with a clean kitchen towel, until fragrant and slightly toasted. This process shouldn’t take longer than 15 seconds, as dry chiles tend to burn which can produce a bitter taste.

16 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Soak the chiles with hot water to cover for 15 minutes. Drain and reserve soaking water for blending. Add a cup of chile soaking water into the blender jar with the chiles and the remaining ingredients. Blend until smooth, adding a little more water if necessary to puree. If you like a silky texture, strain the adobo through a sieve. Place your favourite meat in a zip-lock bag and add enough marinade to coat the meat and seal the bag. Keep it in the fridge for a minimum of 6 hours and no more than 12 hours for beef or chicken, and only a couple of hours for white fish. Makes 1½ cups.

Elotes de Feria Chef Victor Hugo, La Mar food truck “Elotes de feria are a savoury street food treat enjoyed at festivals across Mexico. This corn on a stick is dressed with a creamy and spicy sauce. Be sure to have lots of napkins on hand as the fun is in the messines!” –Victor Hugo. 5 cobs

yellow corn, peeled

canola oil

sour cream

1 clove

garlic, minced

queso fresco or feta cheese, grated pinch salt

½T

chili powder (Tajín)

1 pinch

pepper

wood or steel sticks for corn (or forks)

Mix the sour cream, garlic, salt and pepper in one bowl. Cover corn with oil using a brush and place on BBQ grill for 5 minutes each side until soft and brown. Stick the corn with the wooden or steel holders. Cover the corn with the cream mixture, sprinkle with cheese and the Tajin clili powder. Enjoy! Makes 5.

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BC Salmon with Orange Achiote Rub and Coconut Raisin Rice

Watermelon and Strawberry Margarita Paleta (Popsicles)

Chef Lindsay Porter, el Cortez

Chef Kate Symes, The Fairmont Banﬀ Springs

4 filets

salmon, skin on

¼ pkg

achiote paste*

“This will make just over a liter of paleta mix. Depending on the size of your molds, this will make about 12 paletas.” –Kate Symes

½c

canola oil

orange zest and juice

1 med watermelon, chopped, seeds removed

4 cloves

garlic, minced

1 lb

2 stalks

green onion

½ bunch

cilantro, chopped

2 large

stalks mint, chopped

Blend the watermelon and strawberries together and strain. This should make 1 liter of puree.

½t

salt and pepper

lime, juiced

2016-06-16

1:23 PM

Mix the achiote paste (careful not to spill as it stains easily), canola oil orange zest and juice together in a bowl. Chop the garlic, green onion, cilantro and mint and mix into the paste with the salt and pepper. Rub the paste on the salmon filets and let marinate for about 30 minutes. Grill the salmon on medium, skin side down for approximately 10-12 minutes or until it is opaque and comes oﬀ the grill easily, basting with remaining marinade when needed. The marinade may start to char slightly but this adds a wonderful smokey charred flavour. Drizzle with fresh lime juice.

CMY

Eat & Drink... Outside! Our beautiful patio is open!

½c

raw sugar

¼c

tequila blanco (optional, but fun)

Combine 1 cup of the puree with the sugar and bring to a simmer. Add that back to the rest of the puree and add the tequila. Mix well, pour into paleta molds and freeze. Makes 12 paltetas.

Grilled Hot and Sweet Fruit with Honey A company in Calgary used to make the most amazing honey with star anise. It was a wonderful accompaniment to stone fruit. Best to use a Mexican hot sauce such as Cholula, which has lots of flavour, not just heat. local honey

Coconut Raisin Rice

2 buds

star anise

white rice

1-2 sprigs thyme

tomato paste

2 med

nectarines, halved

coconut milk

2 med

peaches, halved

¼c

raisins

3 med

apricots, halved

½c

water

hot sauce Cholula

½t

salt and pepper

canola oil

½ bunch

cilantro, chopped

lime, juiced and zest

*Find achiote (achotay) paste at the Paraiso Tropical food shops.

@GlassMonkeyYEG

strawberries

¼c

In a medium, heavy-bottom pot add rice, tomato paste, coconut milk, raisins, water, salt and pepper and cook on a medium low heat until cooked and fluﬀy. Before serving, add fresh chopped cilantro and lime zest and juice. Serve with the charred achiote salmon.

Bring honey, star anise and thyme to a simmer and cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes to marry flavours. Take oﬀ the heat and remove anise and thyme. Reserve. In a bowl, toss the fruit with oil. Brush the cut side with hot sauce. Brush the grill with oil to prevent the fruit from sticking. Grill fruit on medium-high, cut side down, until lightly charred, soft and heated through, about 3 minutes. Transfer to individual plates or bowls, drizzle honey over and serve with a spoonful of cream, yogurt or vanilla ice cream. Serves 4. Mary Bailey likes her margaritas en las rocas and her adobo spicy.

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The Tomato | July August 2016 17

What Do You Eat? Honourable Ricardo Miranda, Alberta Minister of Culture and Tourism

What Do You Eat asks Edmontonians who are in the news for reasons other than food or culinary achievement what they eat. Because we know everybody wants to know—it’s the food equivalent of peeking in the medicine cabinet.

Appointed Alberta’s Minister of Culture and Tourism last February, Minister Miranda is always on the go supporting Alberta’s artists and cultural sites, promoting tourism in our province and managing his Ministry’s $343-million budget. In his spare time, he travels home to Calgary to spend time with his family (who are always cooking), and loves to read and watch movies. Q. What are your eating habits? I used to have a structured way of eating, when I actually had time to. These days, I eat when I can. There are evenings where I’ll have two or three events and there’s meals at each one of them, so I’ll have three dinners, you could say. It’s basically going out and taking the opportunity to eat whenever you can, and trying to keep it balanced and healthy. This job isn’t conducive to that because of the times you keep, so it’s important to get in nice, balanced meals whenever you can. Q. What time do you usually eat dinner? Yesterday I had dinner at 6:30. When I’m at home we usually eat at that time because that’s when everybody is home from school and work. It’s during the few hours in the day that everyone is at home and awake and together after a long day. You can go to anyone in my family’s home around that time and you’ll know there’s a square meal for you. Q. Do you know what or when your next meal or snack will be? Whenever I find the time, I eat. But I’m very lucky because there’s always food around. I’m surrounded by a lot of food lovers as well (in the legislative building), so it’s always easy to find snacks and meals. We try to have fresh fruit at our meetings so we have healthy snacks to keep us going throughout the day, but I admit I have some jellybeans in my desk. They’re for a sugar boost, and I also have some chips in my bag. It’s my emergency stash. Q. Do you usually bring your lunch to work or buy your lunch? A combination of both. When I have the opportunity on Sunday, I try to cook and then bring some meals in but when I don’t get that chance I buy lunch. Q. What do you always have in your fridge or pantry? Ice cream. I love ice cream. I always have popcorn because I love to watch movies. I even like to watch the news and eat popcorn for some reason. It’s one of those things in my family that we do. We love sitting and watching TV and eating popcorn. Q. Will you be cooking tonight? What are you making? I’m in session until 10 o’clock tonight, so I probably won’t. But if I could, I would. I’d make pasta. I can make it from scratch, too. I have the little turn thing I bought from the Italian store. When I was working as a flight attendant, we used to go to Rome. When you spend enough time in a place, you start to get tips and what have you … something as universal as pasta, when it’s made fresh and with good ingredients, it’s just mmmm. And when you make your own sauce as well, putting all the ripe tomatoes in and peeling them, it’s just a ritual. Q. What is your favourite comfort food? Hmmm. It’s a Nicaraguan thing. It’s called salpicon. It’s minced meat and garlic and lots of onions and lemon juice. You put it over rice and

18 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Shawna Dirksen, Curtis Comeau Photography

fried plantains. It’s what my grandma used to make for me when I was young. My other one is mac and cheese. It’s one that you’d consider more Canadian. We recently visited Northlands because, as you know, a lot of the (Fort McMurray wildfire) evacuees have been there. One of the opportunities we had was to work in the food line, and there was mac and cheese. I could see a lot of people coming by were picking (that dish); it’s because it’s a a comfort food. I think I even got two helpings of it. It’s hard not to love it.

A Sensory Experience!

Q. What is your guilty pleasure? Chocolate. Lots of chocolate. Q. Where do you shop for food in Edmonton? In Edmonton I’ll shop at Save-on-Foods, but I also try to make it to the farmers’ market in Old Strathcona because it’s on my way into the city. At home (in Calgary), I like to shop at ethnic stores. Some of them for the spices and some of them for the variety of condiments and what have you. There’s a place not too far from my home called LaTienda, and they have a lot of Spanish food and even have Nicaraguan soup. Instant soup from Nicaragua. I don’t know where (they get it), but it tastes good. It tastes familiar.

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Q. In an average week, how often do you eat out or order take out? These days, on a percentage basis, I’d say 75. Q. What is your favourite restaurant in Edmonton? Sicilian Pasta Kitchen. I went there with the Minister of Labour and the Whip last night. We were in the mood for Italian food, and it’s great Italian and within a good distance for us. I love the risotto. And the gnocchi. I very much enjoy it there. Q. What is your favourite summer food? Watermelon is one of those things that just screams summer. There’s nothing better than being on the patio with some watermelon, you know? Q. What does food mean to you? It means family. It means comfort. It means feeling connected to the people around you. When you look at food—and especially when I think of my grandmother—it’s a way of showing love for one another and a way of caring for one another. You’re taking that comfort and that love, and I guess it’s another way of communicating that with people. Q.Is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable? Oh, the controversial stuﬀ! Oh my. Well, it depends how you use it. The way I use it mostly is as a vegetable, but I can see the argument for it being a fruit. Q. What are our province’s culinary highlights? We are very lucky to have people from all over the world here. Where I live in northeast Calgary, there are many Indian restaurants, there’s a Sudanese restaurant, there’s Lebanese, German, Portuguese. When you put together great Alberta beef with good products from our farmers and our fields, and some of the culinary touches from all the cultures that come to this province, you have a lot of variety of food to pick from. Q. What Alberta food does someone visiting our province have to try? When we’re talking about the indigenous people of our province, bannock is one that comes to mind. It’s a staple food, but one that can translate into diﬀerent culinary genres. Q. What is Alberta Open Farm Days? It’s an opportunity (for farmers) to open up their farms and for people to have that landto-table kind of experience. It’s a way for farmers to get access to markets they normally wouldn’t have access to. It’s an opportunity for them to educate people about life on Please see “What Do You Eat?” on page 22.

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The Tomato | July August 2016 19

We are in the midst of a gin explosion. Sales are up across the province; there are new bottles on the shelf every time you walk into a shop; it’s a welcome development for gin lovers. Why is gin, the preferred tipple of elderly British ladies, so hot right now? According to Manuel Barreira, Global Wine Merchants, importer of several fine gins, tonics and vermouths, “it has always been gin. The classic cocktails of a century ago were gin based. Vodka came on strong in the ’60s when vodka became part of popular culture; I blame it on James Bond. Now, with the renaissance in cocktail bars, it’s the golden age of gin.” Peter Hunt, head distiller at Victoria Gin, also credits the evolution of cocktail culture for the swing back to gin. “With gin you have lots of elements to play with. Bartenders get a chance to show their creativity to people who like to actually taste the alcohol.” It helps that there are so many diﬀerent expressions of gin to experience. “I like the flavoured gins, like Eau Claire’s Equineox, the Ferdinand Quince, Sloe gin and Dillon’s Cherry and Rose gins, a touch sweet with lower alcohol, fun to have on the rocks,” says Juanita Roos, Color da Vino. “Tinto, the red gin from Portugal; Dillon’s is unique; Spruce Gin tastes like a forest; the gin from Saar and Boodles is pretty fun too. And of course the mainstays; The Botanist, Hendricks, Tanqueray, Fords. Yikes, I might just really love gin.” Juanita’s reaction to all this bounty is typical. There is an entire world of gin out there to try. The thing to remember is that quality counts. The base spirit must be well-made and the botanicals used make a compelling diﬀerence. “Gin had this sort of sordid nasty history, but it’s like a naughty teenager who became an elegant adult,” says Tommie Cheng of north 53 and Uccellini. “The trend is if you can distill a cool artisan batch gin you are the story these days, but gin is a vulnerable spirit,” says Tommie. “Makers better understand what the end product is going to be because there is nothing to mask the flavour, time and wood won’t change the profile.”

20 July August 2016 | The Tomato

TAO GIN the

MARY BAILEY

Gin is a distilled spirit made with neutral spirit produced from grain, barley, molasses, corn, even grapes, with the addition of botanicals. Cheap nasty gins use essences rather than the real thing. Highest quality gins are pot distilled with juniper, angelica, orris root, citrus, flowers and various herbs and spices. Each house blend is a trade secret, some use as little as six, others 47 diﬀerent botanicals. Flavoured gins such as sloe gin macerate gin with fruit. Hayman’s Old Tom (England, $32)

Noticeably heavy on the palate with well-integrated sweetness and botanicals

with a decidedly juniperish top note. A mellow spirit with a long finish. Plymouth Gin (England, $43)

Attractive earthy notes in the aromas and flavours, liquorice, coriander, some pine and lavender. It’s a full-bodied gin with a nice round texture, flavourful and satisfying. Hayman’s Family Reserve (England, $45)

This gin spends three weeks in a barrel rounding out any rough edges. It’s extremely well-integrated with a juniper focus and a long finish. The creamy

texture and warmth rather than heat means this gin is quite capable of being drunk on the rocks. Herno Sloe Gin (Sweden, $65)

Sloe gin is made from a maceration of sloe berries (blackthorn, related to the plum) gin and sugar. This sloe is on the dryer side, subtle on the palate with complex red fruit flavours. A fine spirit handmade by a small company in Sweden. Hayman’s Sloe Gin (England, $32)

It’s an English tradition to make sloe gin in the fall to have it ready for Christmas. Or, you could have Hayman’s, plum tart and red berries along with some nice ginny botanicals; lots of body and flavour with noticeable sweetness. Serve on the rocks with a slice of lemon like you would Dubonnet. Dillon’s Cherry and Dillon’s Rose Gins (Canada, 375mL, $30)

The base for both is Ontario rye whisky distilled into a London-style-gin. These are the Canadian version of sloe gin, the Rose infused with rose petals and rose hips, the Cherry with, well, cherries. Both possess clarity and complexity of flavour, are well-balanced and not cloyingly sweet. To paraphrase another gin lover, Queen Victoria, we approve! Drink on the rocks or in a cocktail. Ferdinand Quince Gin (Germany, $66)

Their dry Saar gin is infused with quince then cut down to bottling strength with Rausch Kabinett Riesling. A fine spirit loaded with citrus flavours, pine and woodsy notes, honey. A bit confounding (it’s a bit like drinking marmalade, in a good way) but you’ll find yourself going back for another taste forthwith. Saffron Gin (Gabriel Boudier, Dijon, France, $42)

The neon orange colour may be oﬀ-putting but the gin is most definitely, emphatically not. First of all, it smells beautiful, like a flower garden with violet, lavender, orange blossom, also curry leaf, mustardy, along with coriander and bay leaf and allspice undernote. Crazy! Complex

and herbaceous, sublime in a Negroni; try it in your favourite holiday punch recipe and we have been told it makes an amazing Caesar.

Koval Gin (USA, $65) Organic

This is an elegant gin with attractive wildflower pine and meadow aromas, peppercorn and bitter orange flavours with a satisfying weight on the palate and a long warm finish. Made with organic grains.

Ungava Dry Gin (Domaine Pinnacle, Quebec, $35)

Ungava is made with indigenous Quebec herbs, Labrador tea, juniper, cloudberry and wild rose hips harvested by hand during the short summer around Ungava Bay. This gin is incredibly balanced, with grassy flavours, juniper and thyme, citrus and floral notes with a hint of bitter greens, a Jagermeister-ish note, on the finish. Its taxi-cab yellow colour is startling, yet calms down to a soft creamy shade over ice or with tonic.

Monkey 47 (Germany, $180)

Monkey 47 is fast becoming a legend, as much for the price as for the 47 botanicals that make up the infusion. The hype is warranted. It is an amazing gin, fine, balanced, with a penetrating warmth and depth of flavour. It has a lively yin/yang of sweetness/bitterness, a refreshing acidity and a remarkable smoothness. A gin of contemplation.

BARTENDERS TALK GIN

Gin Tinto 61 (Portugal, $60)

This wine-coloured gin is triple distilled from barley and rye spirits, juniper, orange and lemon peels, then macerated with poppy, a local red-skinned pear called perico, blackberries, laurel, wild celery and wild herbs picked near the sea. It tastes of herbs, red-skinned fruits, lemon balm, sweet cherry pie, friendly and approachable. Tanqueray Rangpur (England, $34)

Citrus lovers, look no further, you have found your gin. Exotic and heady with overt citrus, a hint of bay and some juniper on the finish, crisp and beautiful. Rangpur limes, which are also called Canton lemons and look remarkably like a mandarin orange, make up a good part of the botanicals. Berry Bros. & Rudd No.3 (England, $54)

A classic London dry gin. There seems to be a trend afoot; who can put the most botanicals in their gin? Berry Brothers eschews all that. “Just three fruits and three spices, collectively known as botanicals, are all we deem essential to the flavour of No.3 London Dry Gin.” No wonder they ruled the world. Gilpin’s Westmorland Extra Dry Gin, (England, $58)

Focused, crisp, fine, dry with aromas and flavours of warm citrus (lime, lemon bitter orange, with juniper, sage, borage, coriander and angelica. An elegant and sophisticated London dry gin.

Elizabeth Yu, Three Boars Eatery

Eau Claire Parlour Gin

GVine Floraison (France, $69)

(Canada, $54)

Parlour has become the darling of many due to its origin story, the great package and its soft and easy drinking personality. Pine and lavender, citrusy rose hip, berries and warm spices, what’s not to like?

GVine Floraison possesses a lovely lushness and balance and complex flavours of nutmeg, licorice, juniper, coriander, ginger, a hint of pepperiness, orange citrus and sweet pastry notes. Smooth and a bit winey, displaying its grape spirit origin.

Victoria Cocktail Gin

Poli Marconi (Italy, $73)

(Canada, $50)

Well known for grappa, the Marconi 46 is their first foray into that other aromatic white spirit, gin. It smells so good we don’t know if we are to drink it or date it—warm notes of rose, germanium, orange peel, juniper, cardamom and coriander, cool mountain pine and mint. Have it in a cocktail at corso 32.

Canada’s first craft gin, in a bright new package, has a slightly lower proof and a new home on the Sidney B.C. waterfront. Still delicious, citrus, warm spice (star anise and cardamom) with some nice woodland floral and subtle juniper flavours. Dillon’s Unfiltered Gin 22 (Canada, $45)

Ferdinand Saar Dry Gin

The Dillon family makes their base spirit from Niagara region grapes that are pruned during green harvest (thinning the fruit) Even if the gin wasn’t spectacular (which it is) you’d have to give them kudos for being a vital part of their community. Then it’s copper pot distillation with 22 botanicals, followed by bottling the gin unfiltered. A lovely gin, junipery with cool citrus and warm spice notes.

(Germany, $66)

The gin is a lovely project between winemaker and distiller, Dorothee Zilliken (VDP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Zilliken) and Andreas Vallendar (Avadis Distillery). We love the complex Riesling flavours, grassy notes, rose, juniper and hit of ginger on the finish. A remarkable gin.

“There are a couple of gins I’m really stoked about. One is the Ferdinand Saar Gin. It’s made with beautiful German Riesling and distilled spirit, floral, very beautiful. The other is the Ranson Old Tom. They rest their gin in wine barrels. It has a slight whiskey hue and deeper character due to the corn and barley base spirit.” The Tomcat, Elizabeth Yu 1 oz

Ranson Old Tom

1oz

Pineau des Charentes

1 oz

Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao

lemon peels

Stir to dilution, strain and serve in a coup. Elizabeth talks ice. “The thing to remember about a cocktail is that that you are cooking with ice. It’s important to use enough ice and at least 1x1 inch cubes not smaller, too much dilution. Ample ice means the drink gets cold before it dilutes too much. Taste at the beginning there will be burning astringency. After stirring there will be a mellowing out, all the flavours are married.” Tyler Gushaty, North 53

“As much as I love classic London dry, the funky new American style gins are fun to work with. I love Victoria especially the Oaken gin; Berry Bros #3 is super peppery, love it in a Vancouver cocktail. For the season it’s Hendrick’s for the rose and cucumber and, always, Monkey 47. Please see “Gin” on page 22

The Tomato | July August 2016 21

Jordan Clemens, Bar Clementine

Gin

1½ oz

Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin

½ oz

Cocchi Rosa

½ oz

rosemary grapefruit syrup

¾ oz

fresh lemon juice

“I like Tanqueray 10 for a gin and tonic; Beefeater for cocktails is the definition of London dry with that biting juniper. Plymouth is much lusher, more lemony, less junipery. I like Dillon’s a lot. My desert island gin would be Monkey 47 or G’vine Floraison.”

¼ oz

fresh grapefruit juice

The Southside

Continued from page 21

The One Meter, Tyler Gushaty

Add all ingredients into a shaker tin with ice. Shake to dilution. Double strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with rosemary. Makes 1 cocktail

2 oz

gin (something floral and citrusy is best)

¾ oz

lemon juice

¾ oz

simple syrup (or honey or really any sweetener),

‘I am a self-proclaimed gin addict. Within one category you can have so many diﬀerent expressions—the juniper hit of Beefeater, the citrus heart of Tanqueray. Then there’s the more modern styles like Uncle Val’s Botanical, Ranson Old Tom and the Botanist. But for a martini it’s Gilpin’s.”

8-10

fresh mint leaves

Gilpin’s Martini

1 oz

Genever (Dutch malted gin)

2½ oz

Gilpins

¼ oz

maraschino liqueur

¾ oz

Dolin dry vermouth

raw honey

2 drops orange bitters

¼ oz

lime juice

Stir until very cold. Serve with a twist

¾ oz

fresh pressed green apple juice

Brandon Baker, el Cortez and Have Mercy

Combine gin and mint leaves in bottom of shaker and gently muddle. And the other ingredients, plenty of ice, and shake vigorously. Double strain into a chilled cocktail coupe. Garnish with fresh mint leaf. Slate, Bar Clementine original

Combine ingredients in shaker and shake short to incorporate ingredients, but not dilute too much. Strain into a white wine glass onto large piece of ice. Top with 3-4oz of sparkling Riesling (we use Andreas Bender Sekt), garnish with apple spiral. Tommie Cheng, North 53, Uccellino, Biaju this fall.

“One of my favourite gins of all times is the Botanist, so amazing, so much happening. And Ungava, truly Canadian, love it, Nordic, juniper, wild rose hips—it really does speak to terroir. “I am just starting to think about cocktail for Baiju (opening this fall) but I do love making cocktails inspired by places from all over the world.” “This drink is a riﬀ on the Last Word. It looks like golden sunshine.” The Yellow Card, Tommie Cheng 1 oz

gin

¼ oz

yellow chartreuse

marashino

saffron infused simple syrup

Shake, double strain and serve in a coupe. Makes 1 cocktail. Ramon Miranda, color de vino, corso 32

“Gin is the best summer spirit,” says Ramon. “The botanical aspects of gin reflect what grows in the summer and what’s available in the garden, like the cucumber in a Pimm’s cup. Right now we are selling a lot of Eau Claire, Ungava, unique gins. I find that people who don’t like gin do like the barrelaged gins. It’s as if it bridges the gap between gin and whiskey. I’m loving the Italian gin Poli Marconi right now. The guys at Bar Bricco made a cool rhubarb spirit and I made a rhubarb sour.” Rhubarb Sour, Ramon Miranda 1½ oz

Poli Marconi

1 oz

rhubarb syrup

1oz

lemon juice

Shake together in a mixing tin, then strain into a coupe. Garnish with rosemary. Makes 1 cocktail. Mary Bailey likes Gilpins and Q tonic after editing The Tomato.

22 July August 2016 | The Tomato

What Do You Eat? Continued from page 19

the farm, and recruit the next generation of farmers as well. It’s an opportunity also for them to highlight the products they are growing. Again, it’s a great opportunity from a tourism perspective for people to get connected back to the food they eat. You know, it’s quite something when you go to the farm and you’re picking the fruits and vegetables and then making food with that. I think you get an appreciation for what goes into it—it’s not just something you put on a scale at a store. A lot of good, hard work goes into having great product. I think it’s excellent. I’m going to try to make it out to as many farms as I can. Q. How can people take part in Open Farm Days? A listing on the website (albertafarmdays. com) tells people which farms are available to visit. Q. When and where is Open Farm Days? It’s August 20 and 21. All over Alberta. Q. Is there anything you’d like to add? I would say, you know, I’ve travelled a lot around the world, but before becoming an MLA I worked as a researcher and organizer in CUPE (Canadian Union of Public Employees), which meant I had to go everywhere in the province. Everywhere I went I always found a place that had food that would fill your soul. There’s lots of beautiful restaurants around this province. There’s such variety and such good food being made everywhere. Like, there was the borscht I had at the Polish Canadian Community Association. It was really, really good. Then I learned the controversy between red borscht and white borscht; it’s about whether or not you use beets. There’s some great, great stuﬀ happening here. I don’t feel like I have to travel as much because of that. Shawna Dirksen is an Edmonton-based writer who spends the summer embracing in-season fruits and vegetables, pinot gris from the Okanagan and festival-quality green onion cakes.

10816 Whyte Avenue

kentofinglewood.com

@kentofinglewood

Two doors down from Knifewear.

10820 Whyte Avenue

knifewear.com

@knifewearyeg

Two doors down from Kent of Inglewood.

A recipe for

A Canadian Epic

of Food and Wine

Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine, introduces local farmers to local chefs to create longterm business relationships as well as introducing both to fine VQA wines and regional craft beers. In addition to its key role in fostering our unique prairie gastronomy, Indulgence raises funds for children’s programs by The Junior League of Edmonton (over $150,000 so far) and the Slow Food Indulgence Bursary for NAIT Culinary students.

whisk to combine. Continue stirring until the cheese melts and the mixture begins to thicken slightly, you will need to cook out the cornstarch flavour, which will take about 4-5 minutes of stirring and cooking.

Swiss Chard Compote

Butter

Finish with seasoning, hot sauce and a squeeze of lemon juice. If you find the fondue too thick, add some stock or water. Serve immediately with the delicious bread cubes.

⅓c

apple cider vinegar

brown sugar

finely chopped rosemary

Serves 4.

Sylvan Star Gruyere Fondue

Stoney Creek Farm Rabbit Galantine with Swiss Chard Compote and Crispy Leaf

Chef Paul Shufelt, Workshop Eatery

Andrew Fung, X1X Nineteen

“Serve in a fondue pot, or carefully serve in a double boiler, which will hold the heat for the duration of your meal” –Paul Shufelt

Place a small pan on medium heat

The galantine was a delicious match with the 2014 Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris.

The fondue was paired with TH Wines 2014 Pinot Noir.

Saute the bacon until just beginning to brown lightly

Rabbit Galantine

l 1b

Sylvan Star Gruyere

cornstarch

¼c

white wine

chicken or vegetable stock

lemon, juice only

4 slices

Irvings Farm Fresh bacon, small dice

jalapeño, seeds removed, cut in small dice

minced garlic

Valentina’s hot sauce

1 loaf

Bon Ton Bakery’s country sourdough sea (or kosher) salt and fresh-cracked black pepper

24 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Add the diced jalapeños, minced garlic, and sauté another minute, then remove from heat and set aside. Grate the gruyere. Tear or cube the bread into manageable pieces. Place a medium pot on the stove with about one inch of water in it. Place the chicken stock and wine in a stainless steel bowl large enough to sit in the pot, creating a double boiler, to allow you to heat the cheese gently, without causing it to become grainy. Let stock and wine come to a simmer; add the bacon and jalapeño mixture. Place the grated Gruyere in a large bowl. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the cheese, and slowly toss to combine. Once warm, slowly fold in the grated cheese and

2 lb

rabbit meat

1¾ c

heavy cream

½T

Salt

pepper

¼c

pickled cactus (diced)

2 slices

bacon (diced)

Place rabbit in the robot coupe, add cream, puree to smooth texture. Place rabbit, diced bacon and cactus into mixer and mix well on low speed. Shape rabbit mixture into round log shape with plastic wrap. Sous vide rabbit for 3 hours at 142ºF or poach in water bath until it reaches an internal temperature of 160ºF. Cool down completely before slicing.

¼ med

red onion, finely diced

1 sml bunch

swiss chard stem, finely diced leaves reserved)

Sweat red onion and swiss chard on med-low heat with butter until soft. Add sugar and vinegar until onion mixture caramelizes. Add rosemary at the end. Chill.

Crispy Swiss Chard Leaf Brush leaf with olive oil, bake at 350ºF oven until crispy To serve: slice galantine and top with a spoonful of compote and a crispy chard leaf.

Irving’s Farm Smoked Ham Hock with Pickled Cucumber Salad, Ginger Spiced Peanuts and Pea Sauce Chef Rabih Hyar, Delta Hotels.

The ham dish was paired with the 2015 Conviction ‘The Industrialist’ Sovereign Opal.

Braised Ham Hock 1 pc

smoked ham hock from Irving’s farm

vegetable stock pickled red pepper

chopped cilantro

Braise the ham in stock on a mediumlow heat until fully cooked and the meat is falling oﬀ the bone. Strain, reserving 2 cups of the broth. Pull the meat, then add salt, pepper, cilantro, pickled red pepper. Mix well. Reserve in refrigerator.

Cucumber Salad

Strawberry Rhubarb Cheesecake (vegan) Chef Nicole Beaudry, Noorish

This layered dessert is raw and vegan and best made in a springform pan. It was paired with the 2014 Henry of Pelham Riesling.

English cucumber thinly sliced

1 lrg

carrot chopped small dice

red pepper small dice

Crust

½c

rice vinegar

walnuts, soaked and dehydrated

¼c

sugar

½c

lucuma

salt

¼c

almond butter, preferably raw

⅓c

dates

¼c

coconut sugar

ginger

cinnamon

¼t

salt

Combine vinegar, sugar and salt in a small pot and heat until all sugar is dissolved. Set aside to cool. In 2 separate containers combine cucumber and carrots in one and the pepper in the other, pour in the vinegar mixture into both containers and let it sit for 30 minutes in the fridge.

Pea Sauce

Place walnuts in food processor and chop into a fine meal. Add remaining ingredients and process until well combined. Press into spring form pan.

red onion chopped

salted butter

Bottom Filling

¼c

rum

¾c

coconut milk

ham broth

¾c

maple syrup

salt and pepper

Sauté the onion with butter in a pan until onion is translucent. Add the rum and let simmer for 1 minute. Add broth. When it boils add the peas, salt and pepper then immediately remove from heat and puree using a blender.

Ginger Spiced Peanuts 1.5 c roasted peanuts, chopped 1t

ground ginger

sugar

egg white

Whisk the egg white until doubled in size, in a separate bowl, combine sugar ginger and peanut then fold it into the egg white. Using a flat baking pan lined with parchment paper bake the peanut for 5 minutes at 350 F. To serve: combine the pickled cucumber and carrots with the peanuts. Divide the ham mixture into 4 equal portions, using a hot sautéed pan and salted butter, pan fry each portion for about 1 minute on each side and place on top of the salad. Serve with warm pea sauce. Serves 4.

@themarcedmonton

1-2 T coconut oil

250 g frozen peas

www.themarc.ca

1½ c soaked cashews 1½ c melted coconut oil 2c

rhubarb

strawberries

lemon juice

½t

salt

Irish moss, rinsed and soaked

Combine all bottom ingredients in Vitamix and blend until smooth. Add coconut oil and Irish moss last. Pour onto piecrust and smooth with 3-inch oﬀset spatula.

Top Filling ¼c

coconut milk

¼c

maple syrup

soaked cashews

½c

melted coconut oil

½t

vanilla

fresh lemon juice

¼t

salt

Irish moss, rinsed and soaked

Combine all top ingredients in Vitamix and blend until smooth. Add coconut oil and Irish moss last. Pour and swirl. Let pie set overnight in freezer. Cut and store in fridge.

www.wusthof.ca Experience the WÜSTHOF difference at a retailer near you: The Pan Tree 550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park

Hendrix Condon Barr 11935 145 St. Edmonton

Serves 12.

The Tomato | July August 2016 25

Wine Maven Three rosé to drink this summer (you can call them pink, but don’t call them sweet) time you shop. The Pure Provence is a juicy blend of Xavier Rosé (AOP Côtes-de-Provence, France, Grenache, Syrah and Rolle, tasting of zesty citrus and under $20.) We fell in love with the wines of red fruits, a versatile and delicious wine for lazy summer consultant oenologist Xavier Vignon during a visit afternoons. this spring, thrilled by their pure expression, clarity and balanced flavours. The Côtes-deProvence, a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, is a breath of fresh air—pale salmon, with elegant crisp acidity and a whisper of berry fruit, entirely refreshing. This will be your fridge door rosé all summer long. Pure Provence Rosé (AOP Côtes-deProvence, France, under $20.) Provence rosé producers have a fair amount of latitude around which grapes can comprise the cuvee, creating an intriguing journey for the drinker and a compelling reason to try a new one every

Culmina Saignée (Okanagan Valley, BC, $25ish) Saignee is an old school red wine making process— some of the must is “bled’ oﬀ, thereby concentrating the juice remaining and creating a more complex rosé. The juice is Culmina’s Hypothesis made from the Bordeaux varietals (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc) grown on the Triggs’ family estate. We love the more structured style of this wine. While still in the bright and sunny rosé family, you’ll find more complexity and body along with terrific minty, savoury and red fruit notes. This rosé can take you right through dinner.

Looking for an affordable bubble? Think crémant These are the sparkling wines made in the traditional method (like Champagne) in regions of France other than Champagne, such as Crémant d’Alsace, or Crémant de Bourgogne for example, giving you a similar highquality wine for a lot less cash. We are especially taken with the Crémant de Loire from Langlois-Château. The house grows 71 hectares of vines in the Loire Valley, 45 in Saumur, 11 in Saumur Champigny and 15 in Sancerre, all Terra Vitis certified (sustainable viticulture). The Blanc Brut is made from Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc. It spends at least 24 months on the lees which creates a fine rapid mousse, always a sign of quality for bubbly wines. We loved its elegant mineral and citrus flavours. Prefer pink? The Rosé Brut is 100 per cent Cabernet Franc, spends a minimum of 18 months on its lees and possesses delicious fresh strawberry aromas and flavours. Both are dry, elegant and ready for all sorts of festive occasions, $27-ish. Dianna Funnell, Sherbooke Liquor and Flavien Lepert, Langlois Chateau.

Mission Hill grows fruit in several parcels all over the Okanagan allowing them to make small lots of characterful wine that express terroir. We tasted several recently with head winemaker Darryl Brooker. Mission Hill Terroir Series 2012 Sunset Ranch Unoaked Chardonnay, (Okanagan Valley, $30ish). Very little of this remarkable Chardonnay is made every year as it’s the same fruit that creates Perpetua, Mission Hill’s iconic chard. Chablis enthusiasts will love the story of the pure cool climate fruit—quiet at first, with a whiﬀ of lively lemon and chalky mineral, followed by layers of pear and citrus flavours with a persistent finish. On the other hand, the Lone Pine Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley, $30ish) is barrel fermented, about 25 per cent new French—impeccably balanced with just enough roundness and texture to keep fans of full-on chard very happy indeed. Mission Hill 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley, $30ish). Sadly, lovers of the heartbreak grape have become accustomed to disappointment—it’s so hard to find a decent everyday drink that actually tastes like Pinot. Look no further: this bottling satisfies, possessing savoury forest floor aromas and juicy red fruit flavours at a price that is a bargain in pinot world.

26 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Mary Bailey

Benjamin Silver’s first job in wine was in Martha’s Vineyard. Now the down-to-earth Bay Stater makes wine on the other American coast in Santa Barbara county from French and Italian varietals— Pinot Noir, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. The Trentotto File Syrah has full-throttle aromas and flavours, gaminess and spice; the 2010 Nebbiolo, tar and roses, smoke and violets along with firm meaty tannins, suitable for aging. Find the best selection of Silver wines at Devines and Crestwood, in the $45-$50 range. Benjamin Silver at The Marc.

10117 101 St. Downtown Edm. Reservations 780.424.4218 Open late • 7 days a week • bistropraha.com

Alois Lageder practises biodynamic agriculture high in the sudtirol region of Italy, close to Austria. It’s a gorgeous area, hilly, with apple orchards interspersed with vineyards. The mix of German and Italian language and culture is charming, as are the wines; Gewurz, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and indigenous reds such as Lagrien and Schiava. Here’s two to try: 2104 Porer Pinot Grigio (Sudtriol, Alto Adige, Italy, $38). The Porer single vineyard Pinot Grigio stands out in the sea of indiﬀerent pg on the shelf, not just because of the high altitude or the care and attention paid to the grape growing, but because it tastes so darn good. Aromatic with sublime tension, the rich honeyed citrus and stone fruit held in check by a lovely salty minerality and backbone of (almost) razor-sharp acidity. Mediumbodied, long on the finish, find on the list at Uccellino. 2015 Gewürztraminer (Sudtriol, Alto Adige, Italy, $32) Gewurz can overpower, too much spice, too thick, too much. This wine remains elegant to its core, dry, with evanescent floral notes, lychee, subtle spice and an attractive pithy bitterness on the finish.

you know you want more...

Lorenzo Marotti-Campi makes beautiful wines on the east coast of Italy from grapes most people have never heard of, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Lacrima di Morro d’Alba. The whites are delicious—stony, peachy, nutty, excellent with pasta, light meats, or all by themselves. (You can find the Salmariano by the glass at Bar Bricco.) The Lacrima finds expression in the Orgiolo Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Superiore, a full-bodied red with fine and persistent tannins; Xyris with a soft bubble and touch of sweetness, plus a delicious rosé. “Lacrima was disappearing because it is so hard to grow,” says Lorenzo; “and it’s a polarizing grape for wine drinkers—fragrant and floral, it’s not for everyone.” Where it really shines is with food—mushrooms, duck, rabbit, pork (like the pork ragu served at a recent Corso 32 Marotti-Campi dinner). “People never ask are those your grapes, especially wines that come from across the ocean,” says Lorenzo. “But that is the most important thing. These vineyards are for my kids; I am going to take more care. A colleague wants me to join a movement called Vignerons Indépendants. I don’t like groups usually but that one is for me.” –Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi ‘Albiano’ DOC Lisa Caputo (cibo bistro) and Lorenzo Marotti-Campi (Marotti Campi) taste Orgiolo.

Prices are approximate. Wines are available at Aligra, Bin 104, Color de Vino, Fine Wines by Liqour Select, Hicks Fine Wines, Sherbrooke Liquor Store, Unwined and other good wine shops. Not all wines in all shops.

The Tomato | July August 2016 27

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Oscar Lopez, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse

28 July August 2016 | The Tomato

In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album. Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist. Oscar Lopez and Joao Dachery opened the first Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse on 109 Street in downtown Edmonton in 2011. Since then they have introduced thousands of diners to churrasco (grilling Brazilian-style), the savoury wonders of the juicy rump cut and to the caipirinha, Brazil’s national drink. Oscar Lopez answers the Proust Culinary Questionnaire. Hometown? San Salvador, el Salvador Years in the restaurant business? 12 Where would you like to live? In a very small wooden shack on a beach somewhere in Central America. Your favourite food and drink? Sashimi and a really cold beer. What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking? I would be a professional soccer broadcaster. What quality do you most appreciate in your friends? A sense of humour. Otherwise I would annoy the hell out of them. Your favourite qualities in a dish? Strong flavours, potent flavours. A cook? I like a cook who can put a dish together with their bare hands, with minimal tools, like flipping tortillas for example.

A wine? I like a lot of depth in flavour and aromas like what you find in Chilean and American wines. Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)? People who inspire me, Grant Achatz, my business partner Izaias Tolio and my mom and dad. Who would cook? It would have to be the master of the grill in Brazil, Luiz Gonçalves who first taught me churrasco. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Please! Current culinary obsession/ exploration? My wife Susana and I are exploring a plant-based diet and eating a lot more vegetables and fruits. Meaningful/crazy cooking experience? When I came back from Brazil I was broke (of course) and living with my parents. I had to figure out a way to test grill by myself. I transformed an old propane bbq and started to experiment with charcoal; good charcoal was hard to get. My friends would show up with beer and wine and critique the test runs. It was pretty nerve-wracking at first but I ended up even catering a few weddings for that group.

Joao Dachery, day in day out. He’s a bit older and more experienced, knows business.

Philosophy? Live for today. I don’t look back but sometime I don’t look ahead either, which is probably not so good.

Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/ afterwork food? Susana and I used to work together a lot and we’d drop into Izakaya Tomo on the way home.

What’s next? Pampa Ellerslie in south Edmonton opens in spring 2017. That will be our third restaurant.

T e h T

The Tomato Food & Drink

Kitchen Design Awards Winners will be featured in the September/ October 2016 issue of The Tomato

Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you? At one point I took a six-month contract with the city. When that ended I never felt so rejuvenated and happy to go forth with Pampa. From then I have never looked back. Even when it’s a long hard day and people don’t show up for work or there are unhappy customers. That experience made me realize it was more than a cool project; even if it took 10 years it’s what I have to do. Having a job outside really brought home that I was doing the right thing. Mentors? Luis Gonçalves, and my business partner

thetomato.ca The Tomato | July August 2016 29

Market Continued from page 13.

J–Conn Farms, Quail Products, Eggs and Meat

H A R D WA R E G R I L L YOU DON’T NEED A SPECIAL OCCASION to enjoy fine food at reasonable prices. Introducing our

3 COURSE PRIX FIXE • $50 A 3-course menu designed for those looking for a quick dinner, on their way to a movie or event, or who just want to avoid cooking at home—great value, even greater food. Monday to Thursday 5 pm - 9:30 pm Friday and Saturday 5 pm - 6:30 pm Visit our Facebook page for weekly menus 2015 recipient of OpenTable’s Top 100 Best Restaurants in Canada www.hardwaregrill.com 780.423.0969 97 Street & Jasper Avenue CHEF’S TABLE IN THE KITCHEN • PRIVATE CONFERENCE ROOM

J-Conn Farms are based just east of Camrose, and are a family farm, raising quails for over 25 years, having got into it almost by accident. They have recently been a vendor at Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market, and I bumped into Julianne when purchasing quail for my last recipe feature in The Tomato, and was curious about the farm and their products. Julianne and her husband took over the farm from his parents about six years ago and have concentrated on expanding it and educating people about quail meat, eggs and products. The quail at J-Conn Farms are all raised from scratch, they don’t use a hatchery and they are able to control the quality of the birds they raise with no antibiotics or hormones. They collect eggs and package them everyday to ensure freshness. The farm also owns their own provincially inspected processing facility, and as Julianne puts it, it is useful for them to know and be able to control the products they sell, and to make sure that there is no cross-contamination during the butchery process. This keeps the entire farm and their products as local as possible. One of Julianne’s best selling products is their pickled quail eggs, and she is blown away by how such a simple product can be so well loved by their customers. She loves talking to people at the market about quail meat, especially as it is not as well known as chicken. She loves that people are getting more adventurous and willing to try diﬀerent kinds of local products though, and it helps that she can talk people through it.

Quail Egg Shakshuka with Cherry Tomatoes Quail eggs are perfect for a quick breakfast or dinner, and I love the combination of sweet and savoury in shakshuka, aka baked eggs in tomatoes. This Middle Eastern dish is the epitome of a simple breakfast, and is usually served with fresh pita or bread to mop up all those delicious sauces. I love using local cherry tomatoes from Gull Valley Farms, onions from Riverbend Farms, red peppers from Doef ’s and herbs from Morinville Greenhouses. To me, this dish just screams summer. You can serve it all

30 July August 2016 | The Tomato

in one skillet, or if you want to do a fancier brunch, make up little individual cast iron pans for each person. The delicate flavours work well with the smoky spices, and you can also adjust the spice levels to your own taste. I’ve kept this relatively mild, to let the quail eggs and cherry tomatoes shine, but you can always add extra spice to punch it up. 2T

olive oil

1 small

onion, finely diced

1 small

red pepper, finely diced

1 fat clove garlic, crushed ½t

ground cumin

½t

mild ground cayenne pepper

½t

paprika salt, to taste

450 g

sweet red and yellow cherry tomatoes, halved

quail eggs freshly ground black pepper, to season

1 small

handful each, fresh cilantro and parsley, finely chopped

pitas, warmed and quartered, to serve

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Place the oil in a large, heavy, oven-safe skillet on a medium heat. Add the onions and the red pepper and fry together for about 10 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic, and sauté for a minute. Add the cumin, cayenne pepper and paprika, along with a little salt. Cook for an additional minute until fragrant. Add the cherry tomatoes and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes start to wilt and release their juices, but are still relatively whole, about 7-8 minutes. Taste and season again if desired, with salt. Carefully make 12 small indents in the tomato mixture, circling around the pan. Break a quail egg into each indent. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for 4-5 minutes, until the whites are just set. Remove from the oven and serve with a sprinkling of fresh ground black pepper and the cilantro and parsley scattered on top. Serve with the warm pita breads. Serves 4.

Coal Lake Honey Farms From the shipbuilding town of Cumbria in England to rural Alberta is quite the journey, but Christine and Joe made it, along with their two daughters in 2000, in search of better opportunities for the

family. Joe had been an avid beekeeper in England since he was 11, and at 68 he’s still going pretty strong with his passion. Joe and Christine decided to follow the same path here in Alberta, starting Coal Lake Honey with four hives and expanding to just about 250. For Christine and Joe, the day starts in the fields when they extract the honey from their hives and then take it to their Honey House where they package it and also process it into other products. Their two daughters, Emma and Stella, both qualified teachers, help in the summers, keeping Coal Lake Honey a family-owned and operated farm. Christine strongly believes in the health benefits of raw honey, and their honey is unprocessed, creamy and unpasteurized, though if you want it runny, all you have to do is melt it down. As she puts it, the honey is kept as natural as possible. Both Joe and Christine are at a lot of markets in the area, and Christine loves talking to people and explaining to them the philosophy behind what they do. Like most farmers, they are thankful for the good years, and do worry about years when there can be diseases that can take out bees. But they have been lucky so far, and except for one bad year, they have definitely had more successes than failures. While the job itself can be quite hectic and intense, neither Joe nor Christine have any intention of slowing down just yet.

125 ml

There is nothing better in the summer than sitting outside and scooping in cold frozen bites of freshly-made ice cream. This is a tangy, sweet and fresh ice cream, and one of my absolute favourite ones to make in the summer. Being a Philadelphia-style ice cream, it doesn’t need a custard base. Instead it is kept very light by using a lighter half and half cream and relying on the ginger and citrus to keep it creamy and smooth.

SAVOUR EVERY SIP THIS SUMMER.

freshly squeezed lemon juice

1-inch nub ginger, grated, with juice strained out ¼c

sugar

honey

half and half pinch of salt

¼c

candied ginger, finely chopped (optional) extra honey, to serve, melted if creamed

Place the lemon juice, ginger juice, sugar and honey in a small blender or food processor. Blend until the sugar dissolves. Taste, adding a bit more honey, if you would like it sweeter. Add the half and half and salt to the blender and blend until well mixed and the cream has thickened, about 1-2 minutes. Transfer to an ice cream machine and churn, following its instructions, until creamy, adding the chopped candied ginger, if using, at the last minute. Transfer to a freezer-safe container and chill for at least 2 hours, before serving. If you don’t have an ice cream machine, place the prepared mixture, without the honey, into a freezer-safe container, stir in the ginger bits and freeze for about 2 hours. Take out and whisk to break up the ice crystals, repeating this step every hour for 2 more hours. Swirl in the honey, then leave to freeze overnight. Serve out scoops with extra honey drizzled on top. Makes about a quart.

Ginger, Lemon and Honey Ice Cream

Founded in 1692, SPIER is one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms. Today the farm has a modern, conscious energy, with a commitment to sustainability, organic farming and fair trade.

Michelle Peters-Jones loves vegetable and food markets, Edmonton summers and hot, tropical days followed by evening thunderstorms. Though she could do without the zillion mosquitoes. Find her at The Tiﬃn Box, www.thetiﬃnbox.ca.

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ANCIENT HISTORY. NEW LIFE.

e t a L Open for an

e t a t D Ar

Coal Lake Honey is definitely a business that is born out of love. As Christine puts it, we all have to do something, and what better to do than something that you love in the first place.

tend to freeze harder than regular store bought, so take the container out a few minutes before serving. I love to serve this ice cream with fresh honey drizzled on top, which adds a slight chewiness to this summer treat.

Wednesdays and Thursdays all summer long With drop-in art classes, film nights and lots of new exhibitions, your AGA is the perfect destination for a summer night out.

youraga.ca/nights

An ice cream machine is your best bet for making this treat in a hurry, but if you don’t have one, I’ve also included a way to make this without a machine. Homemade ice cream does

The Tomato | July August 2016 31

Kitchen Sink restaurant buzz The Hardware Grill (9698 Jasper Avenue, 780-4230969, hardwaregrill.com) will be closed for summer holidays Sunday, July 3, reopening Wednesday, July 13. Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com) will be closed for summer holidays Friday July 1, reopening Wednesday July 20. Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse (9929 109 Street, 780-756-7030 pampasteakhouse.com) oﬀers a Brazilian summer patio menu with grilled meat skewers from $6; fresh salads from $7; and special happy prices: caipirinhas $8; wines $6 and $5 beer on tap. Check out the patio at The Glass Monkey (5842 111 Street, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) in Lendrum. It’s private and secluded, all the better to enjoy their casual mix and match menu, well-priced wine list and Pinocchio ice cream for dessert. Summer hours at Bistro 76 (11214 76 Avenue, 780-800-1976, bistro76.com) are 11am-10pm Tuesday to Friday; Saturday and Sunday from noon to 10pm. Closed Mondays. Along with their popular pasta dishes expect several honey-themed summer specials. We’re hearing good things about the Reinette Café and Patisserie (301 Woodvale Road West, 780-577-0974); Paris-trained pastry chef and tasty casual menu. Check it out! Chef Julia Kundera is back at the Holt’s Café (2nd floor Holt Renfrew, 10180 101 Street, 780-425-5300) Her summer menu features Oceanwise seafood, Gull Valley tomatoes, Four Whistle lamb (for the lamb burger) and burrata and fior di latte from Calgary’s White Gold Cheese Factory. We follow this chef wherever she’s cooking and are thrilled Julia is back downtown. An inspiring mix of young talent and seasoned competitors have signed on for Edmonton’s 2016 Gold Medal Plates competition: Steven Brochu, Chartier; Geoﬀrey Caswell-Murphy, Share at the Westin Edmonton; Shane Chartrand, Sage; Andrew Cowan, Pack Rat Louie Kitchen and Bar; Eric Hanson, Prairie Noodle Shop; Tony Krause, Privada Wine+Tapas; Lindsay Porter, El Cortez Mexican Kitchen + Tequila Bar; Doreen Prei, Get Cooking, Bryan Cruz, The Marc Restaurant and Paul Shufelt, Workshop Eatery. The fundraiser for Canadian Olympic athletes is Thursday, October 20. It’s not too soon to get tickets: goldmedalplates.com. 32 July August 2016 | The Tomato

Cally’s Teas (10151 82 Avenue, 780-757-8944, callysteas.com) oﬀers a fun contest during Art Walk July 9-12, A Spot of Tea Adult Colouring Contest. The winner of the draw wins a cream tea, which is a tender house-made scone served with cream and jam along with a pot of tea. And, from Monday to Friday, July 11-August 11 Cally’s features Happy Hour, half price on cream teas from 3pm-5pm. Their chef Jackie Boudreau (Sunterra, Dauphine) makes amazing pies and scones, all from scratch, natch! Join Brad and Tracy at Kitchen (10130 – 105 Street, kitchenbybrad.ca) for Meatball Madness every Friday from 11:30am-1pm. Enjoy delicious meatballs, a diﬀerent flavour every week. Attack with gusto at the community table and make some new friends, or take away, the choice is yours. Summer and festival season at the Bistro Praha (10117 101 Street, 780-424-4218, bistropraha.com) includes over 15 specially imported beers on the menu, including Pilsner Urquell, Czechvar and Hubertus Lager from the Czech Republic. These beers are ideal with Praha’s European menu. Open late every night.

opening soon Bündok is opening late summer in the Fox Towers (104 Street and 102 Avenue) Chef Ryan Hotchkiss (Jack’s, Red Star, Central Social) is the owner/operator, a new father and a really good cook. “I’m influenced by the Paris bistros I ate in last summer,” says Ryan. “I want to make a place where people can eat every day.” Matt Girard assists in the kitchen and Joe Rockwood is handling front of house. Kevin Cam’s new concept Baiju, downtown in the Mercer Building promises innovative drinking/dining with an Asian twist including a speakeasy for late night. October opening. Mid-summer is Bar Clementine’s debut in the Pearl Tower and, later this fall, Cafe Linnea (Duchess) in the Marv Holland Plaza beside the new Wine Gallery.

product news The Italian Centre is stocking high-quality, sustainably sourced wild Acadian Sturgeon caviar from New Brunswick, starting at $73 for 30 grams. Pre-orders only. Contact: Carmelo at Little Italy, 780-424-4869; Camilla, Southside, 780-989-4869; Lorie, West-end, 780-454-4869l and Gino in Calgary, 403-238-4869.

cooking classes The Blue Flame Kitchen (Main level, 10035 105 Street, BlueFlameKitchen.com) Lunchtime Demonstration Classes are a quick and fun way to find cooking inspiration from 11:45am-12:45pm and cost $15 + GST. July 8, It’s Time for Thai; August 5, Light Meals for Hot Days; September 16, Meals in 30 Minutes. The evening hands-on classes are from 5-pm-7-pm, $50 + GST. July 27, Summer Jamming; August 23, Summer Pie; September 22, Cabbage Rolls. Call 780-420-7282 to register.

wine tasting happenings and events Ready for some lively kitchen competition? Knifewear throws down the knives in a Black Box Competition with the Local Ominvore, July 16, at the Local Omnivore (10933 120 Street, 780-660-1051, thelocalomnivore.com). Ticket details: facebook.com/ knifewear. Be there for 7:30 to see who has the chops! Kinnikinnick Foods will be flipping gluten-free pancakes rain or shine during the Premiere’s Pancake Breakfast at the Legislature Grounds, 7am-9am, July 20, kinnikinnick.com. Not to be missed: the Country Roots Tour in Flagstaﬀ County, Friday, August 19. It’s a full day celebration of food, farms and history. For tickets call 780-384-4118. Enjoy a bit of Monkey Business at the Glass Monkey, (5842 111 Street, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) at a dinner with five courses and five wines, Friday, July 22, 6:30pm, $89 all in. Call Rob or Janine to book, 780-760-2228. Brad Smoliak of Kitchen by Brad has several Elk Island Dinners on deck for the summer: Saturdays, July 9, July 30, August 20 and September 10. Only 24 seats are available for these spectacular dinners under the prairie sky beside Astotin Lake; $150/pp + GST includes admission to the park, an Elk Island interpretive experience and a family-style dinner paired with local craft beers and wines. Private dinners can be booked with minimum of 12 attendees. Don’t miss Feast on the Field, a fundraiser for Capital Care Foundation with chefs Brad Smoliak, David Omar and Steve Buzak at Commonwealth Stadium, August 17, feastonthefield.com. Register for the Bite (thetomato.ca) to get the latest news in food and drink including details on the

what’s new and notable

Culmina Wine Maker’s Dinner in Jasper, August 22 with special guest Sara Triggs. Savour local food and drinks and connect with producers at Locavore Lacombe on the Lacombe Memorial Centre’s front lawn, 1pm-4pm, Saturday, July 23. “What better way to show off the abundance that Lacombe offers than through the work of some fine cooks,” says Chelsey Gavins, Locavore Lacombe committee chair. Producers include Blindman Brewery, Rangeland Meats, Bison, Rock Ridge Dairy, Billyco Junction, Gull Valley Greenhouse along with talent from the Red Deer College Culinary Program, Leto’s Steakhouse and the Red Boar Smokery. Tickets, $25, lacombedays.ca until July 19. The Sturgeon County Culinary Cookout celebrating Sturgeon County area farmers, producers and chefs is in Cardiff Park Friday, August 5, 4pm9pm. Highlights include chef Andrew Fung’s team from Nineteen Restaurant (St. Albert) as culinary ambassadors, Kids Cooking Workshops with chef Phil Hughes and the Morinville Farmers’ Market. Tickets eventbrite.ca. For six years Shannon and Danny Ruzicka of Nature’s Green Acres have opened their farm for a spectacular dinner with RGE RD. This year don’t miss the multi-course extravaganza, complete with horseshoeing demo (Danny is a licensed farrier) and tours of the property, starts at 3pm, Saturday August 20, at the farm near Viking. Tickets, $150 all in, naturesgreenacres.com

Alberta Farm Days August 20-21 There are dozens of terrific events, open houses and experiences happening across the province during Alberta Open Farm Days. Highlights: Babas & Borshch Ukrainian Festival celebrates the best of Ukrainian culture: food, music and dance. At the Saturday night Zabava enjoy a full Ukrainian banquet,

live choral and dance performances and a dance band, tickets $50. Sunday includes lots of great food, tours, performances and speakers, babasandborshch.ca. GP Brewing Company Local Brewery Tour & Tasting oﬀers self-guided tours on Saturday and private bus and tasting tours on Sunday, facebook.com/ GPBrewingCo. Vesta Gardens Annual Farmed and Foraged Tea, Sunday, August 21, 4pm-6:30pm, features farm-style finger foods and teas that have been grown or foraged on the farm. Dress is garden party. Tickets, vestagardens.ca. Prairie Gardens Fire Roasters Longtable Dinner & Stories, Sunday August 21. Enjoy a five-course longtable dinner by Solstice Seasonal Cuisine featuring the farm’s exceptional produce, paired with wines and craft beer. 5pm start. Tickets $149/pp, $278/couple, prairiegardens.org.

Mark the date Two opportunities to experience Jane Ferrari, Yalumba Family Winery’s ambassador; Wine Maker’s Dinner at Continental Treat on September 21 and at a dinner at the Fairmont Hotel MacDonald on September 22. Jane Ferrari is a legendary communicator, funny, a little salty, unforgettable. Spend an hour with Jane and you’ll find out more about the heritage of Yalumba and Australia’s Barossa Valley than most locals learn in a lifetime.

FINE WINE, SPIRITS AND ALES

Dig in, St Albert’s Horticulinary Festival, gets underway October 12-15, diginstalbert.ca. Cally’s Teas (10151 82 Avenue, 780757-8944, callysteas.com) begins a series of tea classes, such as Tea with Alice and Tea with Jane Austen, in September. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

Now in Edmonton Centre!

780.458.4777 • info@unwined.biz www.unwined.biz • 2, 512 St. Albert Trail

The Tomato | July August 2016 33

According to Judy

Judy Schultz

Ladiees and gen-tel-men! In the wake of a local festival known as Porkapalooza, I give you bacon butter. For the sake of eﬃciency, we’ll call it BB. A bit of history. My grandmother was a frugal farm cook. She may have invented the phrase, use-it-or-lose-it, especially as applied to that great culinary luxury, bacon fat, which she hoarded in an empty tomato can above her stove. Keep reading, you’ll thank me for this later. As the proud owner of a Jersey cow, she also made her own butter. Whenever she had extra butter, it went into the tomato can along with the bacon fat (the duck fat, the chicken fat, the goose fat, etc…like I said, she was a frugal farm cook.) And there it sat, Gram’s go-to fat for frying everything. Yes, she should have kept it cold, but she didn’t, and nobody died. She also made the best fried vegetables I’ve ever tasted. Instead of the tomato can, start with a clean jar, one on the smaller side. Cook as much bacon as you’re prepared to eat – a toasted bacon and tomato sandwich is a good start. Immediately pour the drippings through a small sieve into your jar and add to this a roughlyequivalent amount of butter, which will melt into the bacon fat. Refrigerate. Sorry, Gram. It will develop a creamy-ivory colour and the consistency of honey butter. What we have here is BB, one of the world’s tastiest frying mediums, equalled only by duck fat. Now for the vegetables. The thinner they are, the faster they’ll cook, so a mandolin slicer is a great idea. Potatoes and onions are a given, but young carrots cooked in this mixture are sheer genius, especially if you add a drizzle of maple syrup once they’ve started to brown. For mature carrots, slice them on the diagonal for

34 July August 2016 | The Tomato

more surface. Carrots fried this way are totally, sweetly delicious. Next up, zucchini. Always better when it’s fried, it needs a high, fast heat to give it that golden-brown sheen. The BB treatment improves zucchini so much that people actually enjoy it, especially if you add a thinly-sliced young carrot. And so to greens, nemesis of small boys and carnivores. Wash any mixture of spinach, beet tops, chard, arugula, mizuna, kale or almost any of the Chinese greens. Dry them in a salad spinner so they won’t go soggy. Toss them fast, in a hot pan generously endowed with BB. The instant they begin to wilt, serve ’em up. A drizzle of balsamic vinegar wouldn’t be out of place. If you want corn with your dinner and are temporarily cobless, this works with niblets. Fry them in BB, along with diced sweet red pepper, red onion, maybe a finely diced jalapeño. Season liberally with freshlyground black pepper. It’s important to give the corn enough heat to caramelize it, shaking the pan vigorously. Fried green tomatoes are a given, but finally, there’s the blistered tomato, a perfect side dish for steak, and for the excess of the tiny tomatoes that must be dealt with at the winding down of the season. I like a mixture of red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Melt a generous amount of BB in a frying pan, and the minute it begins to sizzle, toss in the tomatoes. Crank up the heat as far as it will go and shake the pan while the tomatoes sizzle. The skins will begin to pucker, and that’s the moment to sprinkle them with a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Season with salt, pepper and a few leaves of torn oregano. Yum. Judy Schultz never met a slice of bacon she didn’t love.

THANK YOU

From left to right: Reserve Champions Janice and Russell Smella and family from SmellaQue, Calgary, AB and Giselle and Scott Chomos and family from Arrowhead North BBQ, White City, SK.

The 3rd annual Porkapalooza BBQ Festival was again a big hit because you , your family and friends all came out to have fun and enjoy some great food at Clarke Park/Stadium. Congratulations to our 2016 Porkapalooza Grand Champions Giselle and Scott Chomos from Arrowhead North BBQ in White City, SK. Alberta Pork thanks all partners, sponsors, supporters and hard-working volunteers for helping us make Year Three of the Porkapalooza BBQ Festival a success.

DINNERWARE

Discover more at a Le Creuset Boutique or find a retailer at LeCreuset.ca Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories