The Tomato September/October 2014

Formerly City Palate

Take a bite of your city | September October 2014 | thetomato.ca

To grow a garden Meet the 2014 Gold Medal Plates Chefs Gardeners’ vegetable recipes

10816 – 82 Avenue, Edmonton • (587) 521-2034 kentofinglewood.com• @kentofinglewood

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editor

Contents

Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

publisher BGP Publishing

copy editor Don Retson

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Peter Bailey Jan Hostyn Cindy Lazarenko Liana Robberecht Judy Schultz

Features

6

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The front yard, vacant lot, community garden revolution | Mary Bailey

10

Gardeners’ Recipes

12

Meet the 2014 Gold Medal Plates Contenders

14

The Essential Kitchen

28

The Art of Pizza

Vegetables from the garden

What do we really need in a kitchen? | Mary Bailey

A photo essay | Curtis Comeau

Departments

illustration/photography Curtis Comeau Photography To Be In Pictures Gerry Rasmussen

To Grow a Garden

5

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

16

Feeding People

18

Beer Guy

20

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire

22

Pantry

24

In Season

26

Lunch Lady

29

Wine Maven Event Calendar

30

Kitchen Sink

34

According to Judy

How I learned to stop worrying and love the kitchen gadget | Jan Hostyn

Growling for beer | Peter Bailey

Meghan Dear, Localize your Food

In a pickle | Liana Robberecht

The three sisters | Mary Bailey

Back to school (lunches) | Cindy Lazarenko

What’s new and notable

Vegomania | Judy Schultz

Cover photo: Susan Cleary and Patti Hartnagel at the Green and Gold Garden, University Farm, photo: To Be In Pictures.

thetomato.ca

The Tomato | September October 2014 3

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8/8/14

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gastronomic happenings around town | taste of markerville long table dinner One of those can’t-quite-believehow-perfect-it-is nights, that (perhaps) we have had our fair share of this summer. An evening truce between the mosquitos and the wasps; a zephyr of a breeze occasionally ruffling the wildflower bouquets sashaying down the table dressed in pickle jars. Amusing fellow diners and just enough Sumac Ridge wine and Alley Kat beers paired with an amazing dinner — eight courses by Calgary chefs Darren McLean, Downtownfood; Duncan Ly, Hotel Arts; Andrew Winfield, River Café; Top Chef alumnus Pierre Lamielle, and John Jackson and Jessica Pelland of Charcut/Chabar; working with 13 local farms and ranches such as Markerville Berry and Vegetable Farm and Sweet Meadow Farmstead Cheese.

After the last bit of just-picked strawberries with sichaun peppercorn shortbread, after the goodbyes and see-you-soons, we drove home, the sun sinking to the west, knowing we are the most fortunate people on earth.

have your cake and eat it too Liz Pearson’s philosophy of a little positive thinking along with good food and the occasional indulgence reaches full flower in her latest cookbook, Broccoli, Love & Dark Chocolate (304 pages, Whitecap Books). Our first response to the cookbook cum chicken soup for the soul, was ‘why, oh why’? But it turned out to be a bit like Mary Poppin’s spoonful of sugar, easy going down and entirely engaging and fun. Dive into the extensive nutrition info with 69 healthy, familyfriendly recipes coupled with (really) charming life lessons with each one.

dish

food + wine + music = tavola

FOOD ON FILM Esterina Manyluk and Susan Manyluk of The Farm with The Good Food, which supplied the spectacular beef and pork for Taste of Markerville dinner.

FOOD ON FILM

Daniel Costa’s groundbreaking new app has more than 50 traditional and modern Italian recipes along with suggested wine pairings and a musical playlist. Why an app? “I wanted to create an experience that gave emotion to the recipes and a traditional cookbook couldn’t deliver that,” the co-owner and exec chef of Corso 32 and Bar Bricco says. The app is fully interactive featuring dramatic photography, crystal clear directions and an easy-peasy user interface. Chef Costa collaborated with local design firm Versett. “Music and food are a natural fit and we knew that the iPad was capable of completely reinventing the cookbook experience, ” says Doug van Spronsen, Versett’s managing director. To download, visit the Apple App store or usetavola.com

room service

FOOD ON FILM

Actress Hannah Saric in a scene from Voila!.

Photo: Dan Power

FOOD ON FILM

Catch the premiere of Voila!

Saturday September 20, 4pm at Metro Cinema (8712 109 Street, metrocinema.org). Voila! (12 min/2014) is the coming-of-age story of an 11 yr-old girl named Patty who experiences luxury for the first time circa 1969. In an effort to experience some of the exotic grandeur surrounding her, Patty orders room service. Voila!, filmed at the Fairmont Hotel Macdonald and in the kitchen at the Shaw Conference Centre, was written by Conni Massing and directed

by Geraldine Carr. For the premiere, Isabelle Ortiz-Martinez of Olive Me has created a special olive treat (California olives stuffed with pickled onion and Crissa and Peruvian olives, dressed with fresh dill and a light Dijon mustard sauce) called The Empress.

relish the movies Love food movies?

Don’t miss the inaugural Relish Film Fest November 13-16. Enjoy savoury drama, spicy comedies and food for thought docs including the Western Canadian premier of the Slow Food Story, Carlo Petrini’s biopic. (He may not dance like James Brown, but he’s quite the character nonetheless.)

The home for Relish is Metro Cinema; expect delicious French language screenings at La Cite Francophone and Dinner and a Movie nights at several restaurants around town where you can watch fave food flicks such as Ratatouille, Eat Drink Man Woman, Tampopo and Big Night. Find all the deets at relishfoodonfilm.org including volunteer opportunities, tickets and passes, and the opening night gala.

diner en blanc avec deluge

FOOD ON FILM

FOOD ON FILM

Glasses of champagne and good company made up for the inclement weather at Edmonton’s first Diner en Blanc in Louise McKinney Park earlier this summer. Wind gusts and pouring rain didn’t dampen the enjoyment of the combination outdoor picnic and promenade started 25 years ago in Paris, now a world wide phenom. Favourite outfit? The matching white pillbox hats worn by a mother and daughter duo.

even julia child dropped the bird Struggling with a steaming hot cooked turkey is always fraught. We love the elegant clean lines and the utility of this new poultry lifter from Oxo. Move the bird from roasting pan to cutting board effortlessly. $15.

The Tomato | September October 2014 5

To grow a garden Mary Bailey with photos by To Be In Pictures

Ryan Mason, Robert Kirchner and Cathryn Sprague with plants at Reclaim Urban Farm.

There is a revolution going on.

A garden revolution. We’re not alone; it’s happening all over North America. It’s happening in front yards and back, on vacant lots, on rooftops and in the field. Armed with runner beans and watering cans, people are gardening for social justice; some are gardening for a living; some do it for community. Others grow for research, or so they can pick fresh vegetables for dinner.

Whatever the reason, people are changing what it means to grow a garden. That change has the potential to transform our city with front yard gardens, food forests, farms on vacant lots and more community gardens.

6 September October 2014 | The Tomato

Urban Farmers Urban farms are nothing new.

Endangered perhaps, yet a vital part of our landscape, such as Riverbend Gardens in the north end agricultural corridor. The newish wrinkle in urban gardening is the SPIN (small plot intensive) market garden farming practised

by Lactuca and Reclaim Urban Farm. A landowner permits the gardener to work a piece of land (often a backyard) for a share of the produce. The rest is sold in a CSA or at a farmer’s market.

Calgary has, at last count, 14 SPIN operations. Kelowna, with its milder climate, has been home to several successful SPIN gardens for many years, actively supported by the restaurant community. Why Calgary has so many more than Edmonton is not clear. Ryan Mason of Reclaim Urban Farm thinks it may be because of the pioneering skills-building Verge Permaculture has done in Calgary. Perhaps our perennial labour shortage and lack

of clarity around zoning also has something to do with it.

As far as zoning is concerned, there isn’t. Current zoning requires that a vacant lot be vacant until it is built on. For example, Reclaim’s Garneau site was previously a parking lot; also not considered a proper use as the land is zoned R9, the most dense residential use.

Reclaim is confident that they’ll work through the zoning tangle with the city.

I’d rather rows of veg than a weedy vacant lot. How about you?

Market Gardens “I took the rototiller by bicycle today,” says Ryan Mason of Reclaim Farm.

The rototiller up to this point had been a problem. Ryan and his business partner Cathryn Sprague like to do everything by bicycle, yet moving heavy equipment was proving to be a challenge up until today.

They move around their 15 plots in the Whyte Avenue Bonnie Doon, King Edward Park area of the south side by bike, hauling the harvest in Rubbermaid totes, starting with the furthest away.

It’s about a half acre in total, from which they pull about 100 pounds of greens every week and 30-50 pounds of other things. “We plant every single week; with each yard averaging three plantings a year,” says Ryan. They grow 20 varieties of greens; kale, spinach arugula, minutina, sorrel, beet greens, dark red leaf lettuce, mustard greens, scarlet frills, romaines and cos, mache, a red-veined sorrel called bloody doc, and lots of herbs, dill, cilantro, sage, parsley, Thai basil, lemon balm, golden frond fennel, and sell it at the downtown farmers market and to a couple of restaurants. “The nice thing about the market is that the conversation helps to sell things,” says Cathryn.

“There was so much land preparation in the beginning; replacing sod, adding compost. We

have a mix of soils; some have been gardens for many years, and some need more love, but the yields will keep going up as the soils improve.”

If, in chatting with Ryan or Cathryn, you are left with the impression that Reclaim is as much social experiment as business you wouldn’t be far off, but there’s no doubt it’s a lot of hard work.

“We want to show how urban agriculture can be profitable and we want to be part of the food movement,“ says Ryan. “We’re researching urban agriculture as part of our thesis work in environmental sociology; discussing community and civic engagement — how and why people are working to make more sustainable systems.”

Their business model is unique: they pay for the land and water

usage in vegetables and sell their greens at the farmers market and to a few restaurants for cash. Their helpers are interns, learning to garden with them. They’ll trade labour next year.

So we thought, let’s do something sustainable; let’s make a garden.

Reclaim’s most visible plot used to be a parking lot, on land owned by the St. John’s Institute on 111 Street near campus, an oasis surrounded by houses, office buildings and a high-rise. It’s this piece of land that prompted the city to rethink zoning for vacant lot agriculture.

“We grow apples, black and red currants, fennel, garlic, chives, artichokes and borage, rhubarb, stevia, mint, sage, oregano, lemon balm, zucchini, corn beans and squash together as the three sisters, strawberries, hot peppers, six different varieties of tomato, basil, parsley, winter kale, pansies, violets, nasturtiums, comfrey, and bergamot.

The Edible Front Yard “We had water pooling in our front yard, there had been some settling and it looked really crappy,” says Paul Pearson. “At the same time my wife Suzanne, a Red Seal chef with a degree in environmental science, had started an organic day home.

“We lasagna mulched with layers of cardboard, mushroom compost and cedar mulch, then put top soil where we wanted it.

“We’re getting a lot of mileage out of a small plot.

“We have expanded our back garden too. Our kids grew what they like — Oscar, lettuce and spinach, and Anya, potatoes and carrots.

“We spend about two hours a day in our gardens — the kids help.

We share our harvest with the neighbours and we’ll can tomatoes and dry beans this year. “

The Rooftop Garden Mercer’s Catering has a large garden of planters and raised beds on the top floor of their operation in a north-end commercial space. “I plant as early as I can in May so we can have edible flowers all summer long,” says owner Jill Mercer. “I call it the garnish garden. We grow violas, nasturtiums, lots of mint and basil and other herbs, and tomatoes in planters and raised beds. My office and the tasting room are up there and look out on the garnish garden; sometimes we have client parties here. Wish it could be year round.”

Please see “Gardens” next page.

Clockwise from upper left: Beans and corn in the Pearson front yard garden (Paul Pearson photo); front yard tomatoes, 95 Street; front yard lettuce, 95 Street.

The Tomato | September October 2014 7

The tomato patch at Prairie Urban Farm at the University Farm (South Campus).

gardens from previous page

Community Gardens The University Farm Gardens (South Campus) The Green & Gold Garden started as an idea to help do some good work in Africa. Now it’s a thriving two-acre garden that supports the Tubahumurize Association.

The garden is a joint project of the Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environmental Sciences (ALES) and the University’s School of Public Health. Seeds, plants and equipment are donated; the labour is volunteer.

All the produce is sold by donation two nights a week and all of the donations are sent to Tubahumurize, a Rwandan nonprofit that assists women with vocational training, life-skills coaching and opportunities for sustainable income generating activities.

The story of the Green & Gold Garden could be it takes a village to help a village.

8 September October 2014 | The Tomato

The garden was founded in 2009

by Sarah Bowen, School of Public Health, and her husband Ed Parrada. Shirley Ross joined that spring.

“It combines two things for me;” says Shirley, “the joy I find in gardening and my interest in Africa, where I had lived for five years.”

On an early July morning the garden looks spectacular, the very definition of bountiful. While Johwanna the photographer sets up shots, volunteer Patti Hartnagel and I chat about her journey to the garden. “Actually, its funny,” she says. “I did a lot of peace education and after awhile, the older you get the more things repeat themselves. I was tired of not seeing any successes. I was tired of not knowing if it had any impact. So I shifted gears and got involved in starting the southwest farmers market. Which we did.

Then I heard about Green & Gold at a community league meeting.

“We have about 65 active volunteers, an average of 20-25 on

any given workday. Maureen Metz coordinates the volunteers, we have fabulous potlucks, and long table dinners in the garden.

“It’s bumper sticker wisdom, isn’t it,” she says, “think globally, act locally. The garden is thriving. In a little over five years we have sent $100,000 to Rwanda; we can see the good we’ve done to help women who have been through things we can only imagine, all through this wonderful produce, and it has broadened the whole community of people I’ve interacted with.

“Along with the garden we have built a community.”

Just across the road in front of the old red barn is the Edmonton Organic Growers Guild Garden, worked by a low-key, loosely organized group of volunteers who share their produce amongst themselves and the Edmonton Food Bank.

Joining Green & Gold and the Growers Guild gardens on south campus is the Prairie Urban Farm.

It’s a teaching garden, part of the Faculty of Agricultural Life and

Environmental Sciences (ALES).

“U of A is a leader in agricultural sciences with the lions share of research grants generated in production agriculture. Some really big and important questions around sustainability tend not to get research attention,” says Dr. Debra Davidson, professor in the Department of Resource Economics and Environmental Sociology and the director of Prairie Urban Farm.

“Most of the land at the University Farm is not used for research. Most of it is used to produce feed for the cows. Making hay is not the best use of this prime property.

“The garden was formed by a handful of academics who work in food security and urban sustainability; we decided we should be doing more than teaching classes and publishing papers. We envisioned something more active.

“This piece of land will take years to reach its ecological potential; we’ll build the soil, establish perennials and the social core,

people working together,” Dr. Davidson says. “We’ve had a stellar first year.

“I would say that the Prairie Urban Farm represents a cornerstone of a new social movement around food,” says Dr. Davidson. “This is the way people are choosing to get active on political issues and agriculture and food security are political issues.”

“I grew up gardening with my grandma during summers in Saskatchewan,” says Nicole Martin, project coordinator. “I’m able to combine my degree, which is ecology, and love of being outside with gardening.

“The plan is to use regenerative agricultural practices such as sheet mulching and swale building, and to provide skill building opportunities, and ultimately to grow community resiliency through more local food.

Our produce is shared among volunteers and food banks.

“It’s our first year and we’re learning a ton of new things. Our

squash got powdery mildew so what do we do; we planted more tomatoes than perhaps we needed and had to figure in the time spent pruning and staking. We planted scarlet runner, royal burgundy and blue lake beans with our squash and corn and learned that with the three sisters (corn, beans, squash) it’s all about the timing.

“We have some folks who have been gardening for decades and their transfer of knowledge has been critical. And it’s happened in such an organic way; pulling carrots is where friendships are made.”

The Community Garden Experience Many Edmontonians, possessed with the desire to garden, but either lacking the land or preferring a communal experience, have joined community gardens.

There are about 30 community gardens around the city — next door to community leagues, on church property, by apartments.

Veterans of creating community gardens say it can be a long, overly involved process that wears out groups before they have put spade to turf.

Amanda LeNeve’s experience has been a happy one. Amanda signed up for the Trinity Community Garden on the south side because she wanted a place where she could garden with others, close to home. “I had done my own thing in the past, sign up for a plot, grow your own and harvest your own,” says Amanda. “This time I wanted to garden in my community.

“The commitment is $20 a year; you choose a crop to nurture once per week; I’m doing peas and beans, plus there is one work bee per month. I can bring my veg peelings for the compost.

“The church donated the land; I’m sure part of the intent was to make it beautiful for the community around it and to give gardeners within the neighbourhood a place to garden, but the garden is not directly affiliated with the church. There is a wide spectrum

of interest and experience in the group — some are novices, some have taken permaculture courses, somebody is passionate about composting. During the work bees all this knowledge is shared.

“We have peas, lots of beans, potatoes, lettuce, Swiss chard; we mounded the dirt for an herb spiral, we have flowers and kale in a beautiful jumble. It’s all sustainable, just bone meal, compost and water barrels.

“It’s too easy to not be connected to your community when you live in a condo. I like feeling like part of the neighbourhood.”

Reading List In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan Food and the City by Jennifer Cockrall-King All the Dirt, by Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch, Robin Tunnicliffe Locavore by Sarah Elton

Clockwise from left: produce at the Green & Gold Garden; sunflowers at the Riverdale Community Garden; Nicole Martin weeding at Prairie Urban Farm.

The Tomato | September October 2014 9

This extraordinary summer is capped by the acres of luscious produce still available from your garden or local farmers’ market. We asked our community gardeners how they enjoy the bounty.

amanda’s beets “I like to cut the beets in thin slices to give a good beet-to-cheese ratio.”

– Amanda LeNeve, Trinity Garden 1-3

fresh beets

goat cheese or feta

mint

olive oil

fresh cracked pepper

Scrub beets, cutting off any gnarly bits and dress with a bit of oil, salt and pepper. Wrap tightly in tinfoil and roast in the oven (or on a barbecue) until soft, about 20-30 minutes. When cool enough to handle, slip off skins. Serve with cheese crumbled over, a drizzle of oil and seasoning. Add chopped mint if have.

prairie urban farm arugula pesto “We had a lot of arugula coming on at once. Pesto is a nice way to preserve it.”

– Nicole Martin 3 cloves

garlic (or to taste)

1 c

arugula

½ c

basil

handful walnuts

juice of 1 lemon

¼ c

cold-pressed canola oil

sea salt and freshly cracked pepper Chop garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Add arugula and basil with lemon juice and process until finely chopped. Add walnuts and oil and pulse until well mixed. Test for seasoning. Use right away or fill an ice cube tray and freeze for future use.

Makes about ½ c.

pea, leek and fennel soup with harissa scallops “I can't remember where the original inspiration came from for this recipe. I make it in the summer when the peas are ready to harvest. The sweetness of the scallops matches that of the peas and counters the freshness of the fennel and spice in the marinade.” – Suzanne Pearson 1½ T

butter or olive oil

2 sm

shallots, diced finely

1 med

fennel bulb, chopped

3 cloves

garlic, minced

½ t fennel seeds, crushed or freshly ground

salt and pepper to taste

2 med

leeks, white parts only sliced

3 c

fresh peas

4 c chicken or vegetable broth Saute the shallots, fennel and fennel seeds in the butter or olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables start to soften, about 3-5 minutes. Add the leeks and cook a further 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute before adding broth. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered 15 - 20 minutes or until vegetables are quite soft. Add the peas and cook for 5 - 6 minutes more.

½ t

ground ginger

1 t Evoolution Harissa oil

salt and pepper to taste

1 lemon creme fraiche and fresh mint, finely julienned for garnish.

In a medium bowl, toss scallops with oil, garlic, coriander, cumin, and ginger. Let sit for up to 20 minutes in the refrigerator. Heat a sauté pan to medium high and add scallops.

Season with salt and pepper. Turn once as scallops start to become opaque and cook the other side for only a few minutes. Do not overcook.

Remove from the heat and toss with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and harissa oil.

To serve: Ladle soup into 4 bowls.

Spoon a few scallops onto the top of the soup. Drizzle with crème fraîche and garnish with fresh mint.

Serves 4.

reclaim urban farm peanut sauce “I use peanut sauce as a staple in my household in order to maximize the use of our garden produce — for salad rolls, lettuce wraps, fresh cut veggies and an easy stir-fry with chard, spinach and mustard greens.” – Ryan Mason

karen mcfarlane’s beet greens “I like to cook young and tender beet greens just like spinach. You can leave the little beets (the ones you weed out early in the season) attached to the greens. Wash, steam, and serve with butter and salt.” – Karen McFarlane, Cloverdale Community Garden Committee 3-5 handfuls

beet greens

butter vinegar salt Steam until tender and serve with vinegar, butter and salt.

Serves 2.

salmon with new potatoes and beets “Carrots and zucchini also roast nicely, particularly if sliced lengthwise and fairly thickly.” – Patti Hartnagel, Green and Gold Garden 1

salmon filet

fresh rosemary

a few fresh out-of-the-garden young beets, red, gold and chioggia cleaned and cubed 2-3

potatoes, cubed

extra virgi olive oil

salt and pepper

Remove from heat and purée. Strain the soup using a fine mesh strainer to remove pulp and produce a fine silky texture. Return the soup to the heat and keep warm while you prepare the scallops.

¼ c

natural peanut butter

2 T

soy sauce

2 T

honey

Preheat oven or grill to 350.

juice of 2 limes

dash

sesame oil

harissa scallops

something hot — small minced hot pepper, dash of hot sauce, or chili paste.

Brush the fish with oil and sprinkle with salt and fresh rosemary. Place on a cookie sheet lines with foil.

8-12

scallops depending on size

1 clove

garlic, minced

2 T

olive oil

1 t

coriander

1 t

cumin

Mix together until smooth and serve as dipping sauce or in a stir- fry.

Toss the beets and the potatoes, separately, with some olive oil and salt and pepper. Place on a second cookie sheet lined with foil.

Roast at 420 for about 20 until fish flakes easily with a fork. Season to taste and garnish with fresh herbs.

Serves 4 or 2 with leftovers.

10 September October 2014 | The Tomato

sarah and eduardo’s carrot leek soup with thyme Adapted from Fields of Greens by Annie Somerville 6 c

vegetable stock

2 T

olive oil

2 T

unsalted butter

3 c sliced carrots (about 1½ pounds)

salt and pepper

1 c peeled and sliced potatoes, (about ½ pound) 1 lg

leek, white part only

2 cloves

garlic minced

½ t

dried thyme

2 T heavy (whipping) cream optional

mint lovers carrots

1 bunch

MENU

fresh carrots, trimmed

¼ c or so Zinter Brown Cool Mint Sauce

global fusion restaurant

Steam carrots and toss with a generous amount of the sauce.

sheena moodie’s kale caesar salad “This is a delicious savoury salad that tastes so healthy.” – Pamela Johnson, Riverdale Community Garden 1 lg head kale, chopped finely

Gruyere cheese, grated

1

carrot grated

fresh thyme for garnish

1-2

beets peeled and grated

Heat 1 T of the oil and butter in a soup pot; add the carrots, ½ t salt and a pinch of pepper. Saute over medium heat until the carrots begin to glisten and release their juices, about 10 minutes. Add 1 c stock, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot to loosen the sugars. Add 3 more cups stock and potatoes; bring the soup to a gentle boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes, until the carrots are very tender. Add 2 more cups of stock and puree in a blender or food processor until smooth. Return to the pot and cook over low heat.

1 T

hemp seeds

1 bag

cherry tomatoes

2 T

nutritional yeast

While the soup is cooking, cut leek in half lengthwise, wash and thinly slice.

Heat 1 T olive oil in a saute pan and add the leeks, garlic, ½ t salt, thyme and a pinch of pepper. Cover and cook over medium heat until the leeks are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (The water on the washed leeks will help to wilt them.)

Shake or whisk all ingredients until emulsified and season to taste.

Add the leeks to the carrot puree and cook, uncovered, over low heat for another 30 minutes. Stir in cream if using and season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish each serving with cheese and sprinkle with fresh thyme.

REDEFINED

Fresh carrots with Zinter Brown Cool Mint Sauce poured over; it couldn’t be simpler or more delicious. Crack the jar, and the kitchen is filled with the exhilarating aroma of fresh mint.

fresh lemon juice

2 T

hemp or flax seed oil seed

1 t

garam masala

½ t

Dijon mustard

1 t

honey

2 t

Bragg's

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dressing 1 T

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sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper to taste

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Chop kale in thin strips, removing thick part of the stem.

Mix kale with carrots and beet if using. Massage dressing into the kale mixture and let it sit for at least a ½ hour. (The kale will soften with the liquid dressing and lemon juice.) Add hemp seeds, tomatoes and nutritional yeast.

Serves 4.

Please see “Garden” on page 13

Makes 9 to 10 cups.

The Tomato | September October 2014 11

Meet 2014’s Gold Medal Plates contenders Top row from left: Steven Brochu, Steve Buzak, Shane Chartrand, Stephen Chung and Keoma Franceschi. Bottom row from left: Sachin Joshi, Brayden Kozak, Blair Lebsack, Ryan O’Flynn and Lindsay Porter.

It’s The River House chef Steven Brochu’s first Gold Medal Plates. “We’re using all Canadian ingredients and wanted to show our sense of humour; the dish has some whimsicality. The competition is held in high regard and we’re ready to put ourselves out there.” Chef Brochu graduated from NAIT culinary, then spent time on the west coast, then a year teaching English in Taiwan before coming home for the exec chef position at The River House.

“My favourite thing about cooking?

Flavours and making people happy through food.”

Edmonton native Steve Buzak, the Royal Glenora Club’s exec chef is expecting to have a good time at Gold Medal Plates. “Bring some of the staff, go for the gold medal plate, looking forward to it,” he says. Chef Buzak’s background — NAIT butcher and culinary arts program, advanced pastry at Vancouver’s Dubruille, champion ice carver, ISG sommelier, plus extensive Canadian experience on the Rocky Mountainer and at Delta Sun Peaks creates a worthy competitor.

Veteran competitor Shane Chartrand, exec chef, Sage, says; “I’ve never been more excited, because of all the new competition.

12 September October 2014 | The Tomato

These kids work at or own some great restaurants out there. This is the first time I’m not doing seafood and the first year I’m doing an aboriginal dish. It’s taken a long time to create and I think the pay off will be worth it.”

Stephen Chung is part of the rejuvenation of Edmonton’s iconic Chateau Lacombe. His global cooking background includes hotels in Hong Kong, Belgium, Holland and most recently the Fairmont Hotel Macdonald where he became known as a master ice carver. This is his first time competing at Gold Medal Plates.

“It’s good for all the chefs,” he says. “It’s exciting and I’m looking forward to it.”

This is Keoma Franceschi, exec chef of Massimo’s Cucina Italiana’s first Gold Medal Plates but by no means his first competition. Chef Franceschi is a native of Tuscany with several years experience cooking in south west Tuscany, Livorno, Florence and a stint at Michelin-starred restaurant Il Convivio in London, England.

“Cooking is like a game, take a few ingredients and create infinite possibilities and dishes,” he says.

Sachin Joshi, the exec chef at the Fantasyland Hotel brings decades and continents of experience — trained in Mumbai, five years with Oberai hotels, on the Cunard QE2 10 years, (until he decided to stop floating around and get married ) two years with Fantasyland — to the competition. His philosophy? ”If you don’t plan to win, don’t participate.“ “My friend Brian at the Acorn won in Vancouver last year,” says Brayden Kozak, chef/ partner at Three Boars Eatery.

“He encouraged me to try it out. It’s pushing myself into an uncomfortable position; I’ll challenge myself, see how it goes, no expectations. I want to cook food with other talented chefs.

Whatever happens, happens; at worst it’ll be a lot of prep, then a fun evening.” The dish? “Not solid on the dish, but it will be something that respects what we do at the Boars. We’ve been experimenting and testing flavours out with our red wine pairing.“ “Now that I have a new restaurant we want to showcase what we’re doing,” says Blair Lebsack, coowner and exec chef of RGE RD. “We’re very proud of RGE RD and it’s nice to be asked.

“We’re still debating four different dishes. We want it to be something that reflects what we do on a daily basis. But, it will be with a white wine and the flavours will be bright; with so many dishes that night, we want to create something that cuts through the noise.”

“Just tasted the wine today,” says Ryan O’Flynn, Westin Edmonton’s exec chef and a first time competitor. “Between now and the competition I’m going back to London to eat and to sharpen skills. I’ll spend some time in the kitchens at Ledbury and Ducasse where I have worked before.“ His Gold Medal Plate dish?

“Lighter is my strategy, different textures, obscure/novel ingredients. The dish will be classically inspired but kind of old world/new world in philosophy.”

Lindsay Porter, Mercer’s Catering’s exec chef’s Gold Medal Plates dish started with this idea; “we didn’t want to use just any old regular cut of meat. We’re doing something really savoury and local, taking unusual products and using in a different way.”

Why Gold Medal Plates? “I helped other chefs, David Cruz, Shane Chartrand, now it’s time to do it myself.”

garden Continued from page 11

kale and roasted cauliflower salad with parmesan Adapted from Love, Broccoli and Dark Chocolate by Liz Pearson, Whitecap

roasted cauliflower 1 T

extra virgin olive oil

1 T

freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 cloves

garlic, minced

¼ t

freshly ground black pepper

salt 1 head cauliflower, cut into bite-size pieces (about 6 cups) ¼ c freshly grated Parmesan cheese

mesquite broccoli with lemon aioli “Lemon compliments broccoli, adding a refreshing zip to the mundane vegetable we eat for Sunday supper. Who does not like aioli? It’s rich tangy flavour adds life to any grilled vegetable.” – Jimmy Ng, Wildflower Grill

lemon aioli 1 c

mayonnaise

1 t

roasted garlic puree

1 t

honey

pinch

kosher salt

fresh juice and zest from ½ lemon Mix all ingredients together in a small mixing bowl. Keep chilled in the fridge.

shallot oil

salad

½ c

canola oil

1 lg bunch kale

½ c

olive oil

1 T

extra virgin olive oil

1 sm

shallot, sliced fine

2 t

freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 cloves

garlic, smashed

1 t

pure maple syrup

In a small saucepot, simmer oil on low to medium heat until you see garlic and shallots start to brown. Once shallots are brown, remove oil from the heat and strain out solids. Reserve the flavoured oil.

salt ¼ t

freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

In a medium bowl whisk together the oil, lemon juice, garlic, pepper, and salt. Set aside.

Add the cauliflower to the oil mixture and toss to coat well.

Arrange the cauliflower in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, turning halfway through.

(The cauliflower should be tendercrisp when done.) As soon as it comes out of the oven, toss the hot cauliflower with the cheese.

Meanwhile, make the kale salad. Using a sharp knife, remove the thick stem that runs along the centre of each kale leaf. Chop or tear the kale leaves into bite-size pieces. (You should have about 12 cups loosely-packed chopped kale.) In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, maple syrup, salt, and pepper. Add the prepared kale. Using your hands, massage the dressing into the kale leaves until fully coated.

Add the roasted cauliflower to the kale salad and toss to combine well. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6.

vegetable broth This is a great way to build flavour — make a light poaching broth to par-cook the broccoli (or any vegetable).

8 c

water

3 cloves

garlic

1 c

leeks, rough chopped

1 c

carrot rough chopped

1 c

celery rough chopped

1 t

black peppercorn

2 t

kosher salt

1 t

honey

In a small saucepot, bring all the ingredients to a simmer for about 20 minutes. Strain out the stock so you can use it to poach the broccoli florets.

Mortar the spices together or grind spices in coffee grinding machine.

Reserve. (This can be used as a rub on a wide variety of vegetables and meats)

mesquite broccoli 1 head broccoli, stems removed, leaving medium size florets Have broccoli cut up into 2 bite sized pieces so it can be poached lightly in the vegetable broth for about 2-3 minute (al dente). Quickly remove from stock to chill in the refrigerator.

While the broccoli is cooling down, preheat your grill to about 400F or ready your charcoal. I choose mesquite wood but you substitute any wood chips for this.

Drizzle broccoli with shallot oil, toss lightly and then place it on the hot grill to give it some charred flavor for about 1-2 minutes. Spoon a good dollop of lemon aioli on a serving plate. Arrange grilled broccoli on the aioli and rub some of the aleppo chili seasoning on it. Enjoy this recipe with your favourite rib chops or just by itself as a starter.

Serves 4-6.

cherry tomato salad with bagna cauda vinaigrette Bagna Cauda is a Piemontese tradition; a strongly-flavoured anchovy-based dip served hot with raw vegetables, usually during the holidays. Daniel Costa (corso 32, Bar Bricco) created a dip like this, serving it as a first course with impeccable raw vegetables at a Prova sparkling wine event.

1 bag Gull Valley mixed cherry tomatoes (or equivalent) 2 sm head butter, little gem or any other soft lettuce, washed and leaves separated

vinaigrette 1 tin anchovy fillets in oil, drained and rinsed of excess salt.

2 cloves

garlic (or to taste)

aleppo chili seasoning

½ t

Dijon mustard

1 T Aleppo chili (find at the Anatolia Food Market, 15920 Stony Plain Road)

sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper

1 t

Montreal steak spice

1 t

smoked paprika

1 t

ancho chilli powder

1 t

kosher salt

1 t

black pepper

Crush garlic in a large bowl, then whisk in mustard, seasoning, lemon juice, vinegar and oil until fully emulsified.

Check the dressing for taste and texture, adding more seasoning, juice or oil if needed.

Add anchovies, crushing with a back of a wooden spoon until they practically disappear into the dressing.

You could also whiz all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth.

Check for seasoning. The dressing should have vivid flavours, with the oil, lemon, salt and anchovy in perfect balance.

To serve: arrange lettuce on 6 plates with tomatoes on top. Drizzle dressing over, passing extra on the side.

fried green tomatoes A marvellous way to use every single tomato in your garden.

1

egg, lightly beaten

½ c

buttermilk

½ c

flour, divided

½ c

cornmeal

1 t

salt

½ t

pepper

3 med green tomatoes, cut into 1/3-inch slices

canola oil

salt to taste

Combine egg and buttermilk; set aside.

Whisk ¼ cup flour, cornmeal, salt, and pepper in a shallow bowl.

Place ¼ flour in another shallow bowl.

Dredge tomato slices in flour, dip in egg mixture, then in cornmeal mixture.

Place on a pan lined with parchment.

Cover a cast iron or heavy pan with ¼ to ½ inch oil and place over medium high heat (375ºF). Place tomato slices in the hot oil, taking care not to crowd the pan, and cook for about 2 minutes on each side until starting to brown.

Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle hot tomatoes with salt.

Serve hot or cold.

juice of 1 lemon

2 t

white wine vinegar

¼ c

fruity extra virgin olive oil

The Tomato | September October 2014 13

The Essential Kitchen What do we really need in a kitchen?

What pots, which knife, what gadgets are truly indispensable?

What do we keep for the downsized kitchen? What do we insist upon for the first apartment or for the student going away to school for the first time? What do good cooks and housewares experts deem essential?

A good knife was at the top of everyone’s list.

“For the minimalist, a chef’s knife,” says Kevin Kent, owner of Knifewear. “For a small set, but a lot more utility, you’ll need one paring knife (120-135mm), one multipurpose knife (santoku, gyuto or chef knife), in whatever size you are most comfortable with; one utility knife (150mm), one bread knife and maybe a slicer for roasts and turkey dinners.”

“My daughter is off to Mannheim, Germany and I was just thinking what will she really need in her small kitchen?” said Karen Visser of Bella Casa. “A good paring knife and a chef’s knife are musts. A couple of good pots, one small and one larger; one non-stick frying pan, a peeler and a grater (and a microplane) a good spatula, a whisk, a colander and a chopping board, even a little one that folds, and some things in bright colours,” says Karen.

14 September October 2014 | The Tomato

Teresa Spinelli of the Italian Centre Shop calls her pressure cooker the most essential item in her kitchen. “I cook everything in it, risotto, a roast, vegetables. It keeps the moisture in. I like the speed (instead of standing and stirring a risotto which I love to do when I have time, but who has the time?) just throw it all in a pot, and it’s ready in no time.”

“No matter what, you need a good knife, a Zwilling Pro 8 inch chef’s knife to start,” says Jane Simpson of the Pantree.

“A frying pan. Le Creuset forged non-stick fry pans are indestructible. I would need that in my kitchen. A cookware set would be good. I like Zwilling Sensation with the Silvinox coating which makes clean up amazingly easy. A good can opener is essential. The Zylis Lock ‘N Lift can opener is super easy, not tricky, and perfect for seniors.”

Le Creuset Braiser Think of a pan the size of a sauté pan with the built-in versatility of two-handles and the enameled cast iron finish allowing it to move from stove-top to oven to table without a hitch. Braise chicken with olives, cook fish quickly without it drying out, or potatoes and other vegetables easily. Le Creuset colours are so gloriously French, contemporary sunny shades, along with true blue and classic black and white. This is the new Palm, three sizes priced from $190-$365.

Le Creuset Stainless Steel Stockpot with Pasta Insert This well-built stockpot will see you through countless family dinners, canning bees, saucemaking adventures and weekly soup over a cooking lifetime.

Features included patented staycool handles, built-in steam vents in the lids, and it’s good for every sort of cooktop, including induction, and oven safe to 500°F. Love the concentric grooves on

the stainless lids, a design feature which echoes Le Creuset’s cast iron enameled cookware. In three sizes, with excellent heat conductivity and distribution, and easy-to-use handles, even when full of hot liquid, three sizes, $250 to $350. Stainless steel sets, fivepiece $560, 10-piece $800.

Le Creuset Round French Oven Every kitchen needs a French oven for stews, soups and vegetables due to its oven to table versatility, wonderful cooking properties of cast iron and easy clean up of the enamel exterior. This style is in flame, Le Creuset’s trademark colour and style since 1925. Eight sizes to $430.

The Microplane The handy microplane grater/ zester is the workhouse of the kitchen. Create fine citrus zest, clouds of grated cheese, thinly shaved dark chocolate, or reduce a knob of ginger to dust for stir frys or smoothies. The new models have a comfortable handle and a plastic blade protector. Easy care: rinse off, hang up, it’s done.

Under $20, depending on size and model.

Cole and Mason Morley Crank Pepper Mill The spring-loaded carbon steel grinding mechanism cuts cleanly, releasing the fullest aromas and flavours. The handsome beechwood and stainless steel exterior is attractive, and it’s built to last, with a lifetime guarantee on the grinding mechanism. Also comes in a salt mill. $50.

Joseph Joseph Elevate Jar Spatula There’s no reason why a lowly spatula can’t be bright and cheerful. The Elevate, made of tough polypropylene with a flexible silicone head, is designed with a built-in tool rest to keep the business end off the counter. Entirely suitable for non-stick pans, in several shapes and colours, and is heat resistant up to 650°F. $12.

Zwilling Sensation Frypan Everybody needs a basic high-quality fry pan for both stove-top and oven use.

The Sensation line of cookware from Zwilling undergoes a proprietary process called Silvinox, which prevents discolouration

over time and makes the surface virtually nonstick. Fry pans in three sizes, $150-$200. Find the set on promo in several stores, $1000.

Prepara Herb Savor It’s been a summer of glorious fresh herbs in abundance, ready for the picking. In winter? Not so much — the Herb Savor helps preserve those precious market herbs to see full value out of every bunch. $30.

Prepara Herb Shears Why dirty a knife and cutting board to chop a few herbs? Herb shears makes snipping dill and other leafy herbs a cinch. $16.

Staub French Oven (Cocottes) High-quality enameled cast iron is essential in every kitchen, for beauty, longevity, and performance.

We love Staub’s flat continuous selfbasting lids and

dishwasher.

Four sides for precision grating of cheese, vegetables, bread. $20.

sturdy constriction. Several sizes in both ovals and round styles, in of-the-moment colours, even one with a rooster knob, for coq-au vin of course. $207-520.

Oxo Serrated Peeler Oxo’s trademarked ergonomic handles are comfortable to hold and make using the tool less tiring. The serrated stainless steel blades are ideal for both fruit and veg, $10.

Danesco Box Grater Sturdy, balanced, doesn’t shimmy on the counter. High quality stainless steel doesn’t rust even after numerous trips through the

Prepara I Prep Tablet Stand A sturdy I Pad stand is the new essential in the kitchen, all the better to follow Daniel Costa’s new Tavola app. The iPrep has a non-slip rubber grip and weighted base to keep it stable and comes with a handy stylus to keep things clean. Gift boxed. $30.

ChopStir The original Chopstir breaks up ground meat while it cooks, effortlessly.

It’s also excellent for chopping whole canned tomatoes, no muss, no fuss.

Solid plastic, dishwasher safe, made in the USA. $13.

The Tomato | September October 2014 15

feeding people

| jan hostyn

How I learned to stop worrying and love the kitchen gadget Bacon seems to be taking over the world. Bacon cupcakes, bacon popcorn, bacon butter, maple bacon donuts, bacon brittle…it’s everywhere and in everything. It’s gotten so bad I barely bat an eye when I see bacon anything anymore.

Until the other day.

That’s when I almost ran smackdab into a huge stack of Bacon Bowls. They were impossible to miss, perched precariously high and numbering into the hundreds (or so it seemed). I had been on a mission to hunt down the perfect pillow, but these contraptions quickly stole my focus.

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Upon closer inspection, I discovered there wasn’t an ounce of bacon present in that pile of boxes.

Instead, tucked neatly inside each package was a curious little device that you could wrap bacon around. Pop it into the oven or microwave and ta-da, out comes an edible bowl (made of bacon, of course). Just the thing for plopping chocolate ice cream in, evidently.

They did not tempt me. At all. You see, I’m one of those rare creatures who doesn’t actually understand the appeal of bacon. If I really, really liked bacon? Well, maybe.

There was a time, though, when simply the fact that it could be classified as a kitchen gadget/ gizmo/doodad/thingamabob would have turned me off instantly. They were all dirty words in my world.

Things like that just seemed so, well, unnecessary.

Not that I wasn’t interested. I used to be fascinated with practically anything kitchen-related, no matter how gimmicky, but usually more

16 September October 2014 | The Tomato

in a car wreck kind of way. I didn’t really want to look, but I couldn’t seem not to, either. It all seemed like just more stuff to clutter up my already cluttered kitchen.

Then something happened.

My unfailingly reliable and perfectly pleasing popovers suddenly decided that popping was passé. I went from being able to effortlessly whip up respectable popovers to being totally incapable of achieving any sort of pop whatsoever. My muffin tin, my whisk, my bowl and I spent endless hours sequestered in the kitchen, experimenting with countless recipes, and the results always turned out the same: pffft.

I took some comfort in realizing that, after a bit of research, I wasn’t the only one who was perplexed by popovers.

Popover mishaps are a very common occurrence. It was deflating, though.

And then I read about popover pans and their penchant for producing the loftiest popovers ever. I was torn. A popover pan has one purpose and one purpose only, and to me that made it a gadget.

I did not buy gadgets. But I wanted popovers. Desperately.

Out I went. When I came back, I was the somewhat hesitant owner of a brand-new shiny popover pan. And you know what? It worked. Popover success — times a gazillion. Now, no matter what I do or don’t do, my popovers pop to the loftiest heights ever. I can’t seem to make them not pop.

Gadget is no longer a bad word in my kitchen. My popover pan has

seen to that. Now a gadget is just a thing. And I’ve come to terms with the fact that we all need things.

Just different things.

I deem my garlic press as essential as a knife, or a cutting board, or my multiple sets of measuring cups.

Admittedly, it does only one thing, but in my kitchen, it does that one thing all the time. I have a friend who is not a garlic press fan at all.

Her utensil of choice is a knife. A quick smash and voilà, perfectly crushed garlic. Or so she says.

Another friend absolutely adores her Whirley Pop popcorn popper (kind of like a pot, but it stirs the popcorn as it pops). Me, well, I think I’ve dug mine out only a couple of times in too many years to count. My beat-up old camping pot makes better popcorn handsdown.

You can get everything these days: batter dispensers; herb scissors; corn peelers; banana slicers (anything slicers, actually); clear toasters (so you can see when your toast is done); cupcake corers (they take out the centre so you can fill the cupcakes); mugs with a little compartment for cookies or crackers; boil buoys (floating devices that chime when your water boils); ice cream scoops that scoop cylinder-shaped blocks of ice cream (so you can plunk it in a cone and it doesn’t fall out); a contraption that hooks onto your cookie so you can dip away without ever being in danger of dropping your cookie in your milk, and so on.

Interesting? Definitely. Useful?

Perhaps.

I won’t tell which of those have found spots next to my treasured popover pan. Chances are pretty good you won’t find me eating bacon popcorn out of a bacon bowl any time soon, though.

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A former kitchen-gadget/gizmo/doodad/ thingamabob phobic, Jan Hostyn is slowly but surely conquering her fears.

The Tomato | September October 2014 17

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18 September October 2014 | The Tomato

beer guy | peter bailey Growling for beer “Rushing the growler” sounds like something for which a football ref might call a penalty. But no, it’s a good thing: bringing beer back from the bar in a largish container called a growler.

Back in the day (the 1800s through mid-1900s) when dad asked you to go get a beer, he didn’t mean the fridge. He meant grab a pail, head to the pub and don’t spill a drop on the way home. The hissing sound the beer made as it escaped the pail’s lid sounded like growling, apparently, hence the term growler. Prohibition put a stop to growlers, and later beer bottles and cans took their place.

The advent of brewpubs and craft breweries has meant a rebirth in growlers. Today’s growler is most commonly a 1.89 litre (half a U.S. gallon) or 1 litre brown glass bottle with screw top or stopper.

One fills them at brewpubs, breweries or beer stores, and the beer lasts two days to a week or so, depending on the system used. The best system is a counter-pressure filling method that removes oxygen from the growler before the beer goes in. This most closely resembles actual bottling, allowing the beer to last for much longer in the growler versus the one or two days for a growler filled from the tap and capped.

Growlers are a boon for small breweries, especially start-ups. A bottling or canning line is a big expense, and growlers can ease a brewery’s way into the retail market. Hog’s Head, Edmonton’s newest brewery, started off with growlers before moving to standard size bottles. Brewmaster Bruce Sample told me he likes the flexibility of growlers, giving him an outlet for his out-there

experiments like a rumoured triple imperial milk stout. Hog’s Head’s new tap room at the St. Albert brewery has 15 taps, all ready for growler filling.

In beery B.C., growlers are hot. On Vancouver’s hipsterific Main Street, former Albertan Conrad Gmoser is brewmaster at tiny Brassneck Brewery. No bottles, no kegs – just growlers. Brassneck says: “it’s not ‘cause we’re precious, or because we’re trying to be fuss pots. It’s so we can have as many options as possible for those who make the journey to Main & 6th.”

Not everyone is riding the growler bandwagon.

Brooklyn Brewery’s brewmaster Garrett Oliver is not a fan, noting that growler beer can be the “equivalent of a fine restaurant meal scraped into a bag, refrigerated for days, and then heated up in a microwave.”

He has a point. Once a growler is opened, the beer starts to degrade, since in contrast to wine, beer really, really doesn’t like to breathe.

And even beer geeks don’t always have the people around willing to share a one-litre growler.

But growlers can be magical, allowing one to bring that perfect beer moment home. I rushed my first growler in 2002 at Gahan House, a brewpub in Charlottetown, P.E.I., just across the bay from a friend’s cottage in Rocky Point. Gahan House was a godsend, an escape from the tyranny of the no-booze-sales-onSunday provincial liquor store. I remember explaining cider to a puzzled store employee: “No call for that round here, b’y.” We drank the growler of Gahan amber ale with mussels dug from the shore and potatoes from the field. Heaven.

That growler still sits on a shelf at my home. Someday I’ll return to those bucolic red shores for a refill.

Yeg Growler Guide From nothing much a few years ago, there is now a host of places in Edmonton and area to rush a growler or two. Even better, almost all the places encourage you to try before you buy.

Brewsters Brewing Edmonton The launch of Brewster’s Beer Revolution pubs gave people a reason to give the venerable brewpub chain another look.

Brewsters added growlers last year and will sell their beer in bottles at retail this fall. Try their Curly Horse IPA, an affably hopped English-American hybrid IPA.

Enjoy an all-inclusive evening out the Grape Escape

Keg n Cork Liquor Edmonton The first retailer with a growler system, the southside beer temple Keg n Cork Liquor, was the growler pioneer in Edmonton. Dave Scott notes that with eight taps they are able to service most tastes, from the geek entranced by the barrel-aged Mikkeller Man in the Moon imperial stout to the rookie looking for an easy-drinking pilsner for his BBQ.

Wine, Spirits & Beer Festival

October 17 & 18, 2014 5pm - 9pm Expo Centre, Edmonton Northlands

Wine and Beyond Sherwood Park, Edmonton These two ginormous local liquor shops from Liquor Depot do nothing on a small scale. The Windermere store has a large sampling bar with 32 taps, all available for takeout by growler. Recent hits have included Lost Coast Raspberry Brown and the ubiquitous Stiegl Radler.

Sherbrooke Liquor Edmonton Beer Manager Stephen Bezan says Sherbrooke took some time to research and acquire the best growler system, the Pegas counter-pressure system. Sherbrooke has eight taps, ranging from their most popular, local favourite Yellowhead Lager, to draft exclusives from brewers like Dieu du Ciel or Anderson Valley.

Liquid Harvest St. Albert When the Enjoy Centre was in the planning stages, Bill Hole told me he hoped to have a microbrewery on-site. Alas, this was not to be, but there is a nice little liquor store there with a top quality six-tap growler system from Canadian Growler. Exotics like North Coast Brother Thelonious Abbey Ale do well here.

Hog’s Head Brewing St. Albert While there is no craft brewery in St. Albert’s Enjoy Centre, Hog’s Head is literally across the road. Their tap room launched in August with a full food menu and 15 taps which feature draft exclusives and one-offs. I’m partial to their session IPA, Boss Hog Oatmeal IPA. Peter Bailey has been known to growl now and then.

He tweets as @Libarbarian.

You’ll sample from a seemingly endless selection of wines, spirits and beer. Tickets are $50+gst per evening and include samples from over 75 producers.

We’ve created this tasting event for you, our Co-op members, and your guests.

Tickets to this all-inclusive event are available at http://guestli.st/277572 for Friday or http://guestli.st/277581 for Saturday, or at our MacTaggart Ridge location.

5962 Mullen Way – 780-432-2258 coopwinespiritsbeer.com The Tomato | September October 2014 19

the proust culinary questionnaire Meghan Dear, Localize your food In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era — he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.

Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist.

Local has become a culinary buzzword in recent years. “We have found that there has been a significant change in consumer behaviour — they want to support the local economy, but cannot always see how,” says Meghan Dear, founder of Localize your Food.

“Grocery shelves are competitive places; it’s challenging for a small company to get exposure. We make it easy for consumers to see these products on a grocery shelf.

On the other hand, the grocer faces a lot of demands from their customers for local products. It’s not easy for them to put together a plan, and we help monitor sales and profitability.”

Localize creates transparency. The labeling system helps shoppers learn at a glance where products come from and other information about its production.

Meghan Dear started Localize in 2011.

“I was inspired by work in Africa. Some of the issues I saw with small-scale agriculture there were similar to issues I saw here in Canada. Mainly, that it’s difficult to market your product when you are little.

“If you don’t have a market you don’t have a lot of power, so anything that enhances your ability to access markets will enhance your ability to thrive.

“It’s incremental, we label hundreds of products across a grocery store which turns into hundreds of thousands of dollars each year. We simply celebrate what is local and give companies a tool to measure it. “ You’ll find Localize labels on items in several grocery stores and the company is expanding to over 250 stores in Western Canada this summer.

20 September October 2014 | The Tomato

Localize Ltd. won the top prize of $100,000 in the 2014 VenturePrize Fast Growth competition, which supports emerging Alberta businesses. localizeyourfood.com

Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)?

Hometown?

Wetaskiwin, I’m a farmer’s daughter.

Who would cook?

My dad, with potatoes and beets straight out of the garden.

Where would you like to live?

Rural Alberta, its where my roots are.

That’s the big dream, escape the city and go back to the roots.

Your favourite food and drink?

I could have cheese for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I’m a huge coffee fan. I make a latte every morning with my stove top espresso machine.

What would you be doing if you weren’t localizing?

I’d be farming vegetables, a market garden.

My dad’s retiring this year; if there were two of me one of us would be taking over that farm.

What do you most appreciate in your friends?

Authenticity. I’ve come to appreciate people who are chasing things that are important to them — aligning what they are doing for a living with what they care about.

Your favourite qualities in a Localize partner?

Problem solving. We work with multiple partners, grocery stores, food producers and customers.

When we are able to align everyone’s interests we have a perfect and powerful trio.

Margaret Atwood, George Stroumboulopoulos, Wendell Berry.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

In my work these words matter a lot; process, scalability and impact.

Current culinary obsession/ exploration?

Kale. It’s in my blender, my wok, my oven, finding its way into everything.

Meaningful/crazy food experience?

I lived in an undeveloped region of northern Ghana. Meal preparation was done over coal fires, and everything was an ingredient until you made it. The daily

presents

CHEC

What’s next?

We won the 2014 Venture Prize — a top business award for fast growth companies. It’s a validation that we built something that can support local anywhere. It seemed unlikely that a little local food labeling company could win, but we successfully demonstrated how we plan to turn this into a world-wide application (patent pending). Any grocery store, anywhere.

CH

F”

UPGRADED MOBILE APP

WF

Philosophy?

Commit.

E TOR

OUR APP S KY

R

Mentors?

From three years ago, not knowing how to run a business, to where we are now is because of a lot of people who have spent time with me. An example is great friend Ashley Good who taught me how to fail fast. When I started out,

my big idea was just that, an idea.

She helped me find a way to test it quickly to see if it had legs, and the confidence to start talking to grocery stores, which was way on the other side of my comfort zone.

Get it out there, see if it can run.

SEA

staple is tzed, a thick porridge of fermented millet. You walk for two miles to mill the grain, then it has to ferment over 24 hours. That makes the millet more flavourful and nutritious, as the fermenting breaks down the protein, making it more available. You make only enough for the next day, and then you cook it. I cherish the memory of waiting an hour while the tzed cooks. It gives me pause — food takes a lot of effort there, it takes a lot of time and a lot of women’s hours.

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The Tomato | September October 2014 21

pantry

| liana robberecht

In a Pickle Pickling has found its way onto the What’s Hot Culinary Trend List for 2014. However, if you take a deeper dive into the brine, you’ll find that pickling is far from modern.

In fact, it’s been around since 7th century BC. Before refrigeration methods of preservation were widely available, pickling was the primary method to conserve food. Crossing geographical, socioeconomic and religious boundaries, pickles really hit their stride as a food preservation effort in 16th century Europe with the arrival of a number of new foods from abroad.

A recent trip to Spain showed me that the tradition is still alive and kicking in Europe. The pickles at the Valencia market — the most wonderful pickled onions I have ever tasted — reinforced my own personal love of pickling.

The process of pickling itself simply means to preserve food in acid (i.e. vinegar). Vinegar is made when starches and sugars are fermented into alcohol and then oxidized by the addition of certain types of bacteria. These bacteria create acetic acid, the preserving ingredient in vinegar.

Perfectly placed to make fine wine and good friends. www.tinhorn.com

22 September October 2014 | The Tomato

With such a broad definition, there is plenty of room for chefs to play. This time of year in the Calgary Petroleum Club kitchen the team is obsessively pickling everything in sight, from cherry tomatoes to stone fruit. Just about anything you can think of can be pickled: walnuts, onions, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cherries and apricots, to name a few. Each food produces a unique flavour, which can be enhanced by varying the vinegar or brine one uses (for example; malt, apple cider, rice or white balsamic). Wines, beers and ciders can be transformed into delicious vinegars that create diverse flavour foundations for your pickles.

Different salt and spice combinations (bay leaves, pepper-corns, cloves, star anise and tarragon) can perfect the balance between food and acid. By playing with spices, you can create endless flavour combinations ranging from sweet to spicy, tart to savoury.

In addition to the taste, Chinese culture teaches that fermented

and pickled foods play a large role in digestive health. My friend Nicole Gomes of Nicole Gourmet Catering (and the season three sweetheart of Top Chef Canada) says that the tradition of pickling holds a special place in her heart due to her Chinese background.

Chef Nicole upholds tradition by salt-pickling radishes and bamboo shoots, and she innovates the genre with an Asian take on an old German favourite, turning pork and sauerkraut into pickled mustard greens with braised pork belly.

Pickling has a rich history with endless possibilities. Once you understand the foundational elements, you can begin to experiment with pickles of your own. Choose a pickling subject, vinegar and spice combination and get pickling.

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade. If life hands you anything else, pickle it.

roasted golden beet, swiss chard and pickled onion salad This salad will pair nicely with any proteins on the barbecue, such as salmon, chicken or steak.

1 medium golden beet, roasted, peeled, cut into sticks 1 c Swiss chard leaves, chiffonade 1 c

shredded cabbage

½ pickled red onion (recipe below) ½

sweet pepper, julienne

2 T

olive oil

4 T

apple cider vinegar

2 sprigs

fresh dill, clean off stem

2

radishes, sliced thinly

Explore vertical gardening, charcuterie, craft beer and more.

October 10 & 11, 2014 Highlights:

• Alberta Ate Chef Collaborative dinner featuring 9 top Alberta chefs • Hands-on workshops • “Pickles, Pies, & Peppers” Retro-style contests • Free demos and tastings Web diginstalbert.ca

twitter @diginfest

salt and fresh-cracked pepper to taste

quick pickled red onion ¼ c

rice vinegar

¼ c

sherry vinegar

¼ c

mirin rice wine

¼ c

white sugar

cracked peppercorns

1 T

salt

2

bay leaves

red onion, peeled and sliced into rings Mix all ingredients but the onions together until the salt and sugar have been dissolved.

Blanch onions in hot water, drain, then place in a glass jar. Cover with the pickling liquid. The onions will be ready in 30 minutes to an hour.

To serve: Toss all together. Adjust seasoning as desired.

Serves 4.

Liana Robberecht is the executive chef at the Calgary Petroleum Club, and always samples the pickles wherever she is traveling.

FLAVOURFULLY IMAGINED

Locally Immersed Innovative Dining Coming Soon

ampersand27.com

The Tomato | September October 2014 23

in season

| mary bailey

The Three Sisters

coming

soon mill creek

Corn, beans and squash were some of the first crops domesticated by early Mesoamerican societies, and where I grew up, we learned about the Iroquois planting the three vegetables together, often burying a fish head in the bottom of the hole.

Like sisters do, the plants relied on each other; the beans fixed the nitrogen in the soil and used the corn to climb; the squash prevented weeds, the vines help to retain moisture and ward off insects with their fuzzy/prickly leaves. Southwestern tribes included a fourth sister to attract bees.

The legend is that corn, beans and squash are three sisters who must live together to thrive, and thrive they did, providing fertile soil and a healthy diet for generations (corn and beans create a complete protein when eaten together).

They planted the three sisters this year at the Prairie Urban Farm (without the fish head.)

Authentic Italian flavors with a modern twist.

Everything local, fresh and made in house.

Build a mound about a foot high and smooth out the top. Plant several corn seeds close together in the centre. Once the corn is six or so inches tall, plant pole beans and squash around the corn, alternating seeds.

24 September October 2014 | The Tomato

4-6 mid-length (4-5 inches) zucchini cut into long strips or wedges.

Whisk together oil, half the juice, zest and seasoning in a large bowl or plastic ziploc bag. Brush zucchini with oil/lemon mixture, or place in the bag and shake to coat zucchini. (Don’t leave in the bag for more than a few minutes or the zucchini will get too soft.)

Place on a medium grill, and grill on one side for about 3-5 minutes to get grill marks. Turn over and cook for about another 5 minutes until the zucchini is soft and starting to brown.

Take off the heat and right before serving, drizzle with the rest of the lemon juice and zest. Season to taste.

Serves 4-6.

green beans with tomatoes, garlic and basil (fagiolini con pomodoro, aglio e basilico) Enjoy the classic Italian late summer combination of green beans and tomatoes, hot or cold. Adapted from Marcella’s Italian Kitchen by Marcella Hazan.

1 clove garlic, chopped (or to taste)

Late summer/early fall is a delicious time to eat corn, beans and squash.

4-6 fresh ripe tomatoes (1 pound) peeled and rough chopped

grilled zucchini

4 c green beans (approx 1½ pound- green beans,

A mix of yellow and green zucchini looks marvelous. This is an excellent party dish to do ahead and keep warm.

Leftovers are tasty in a sandwich.

Open Tue - Fri 11.30 am – 2 pm • Tue – Sat 5 pm – 10 pm 780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com • 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square)

sea salt and freshly-cracked pepper

1-2 T

extra virgin olive oil

juice and zest of 1 lemon

¼ c

extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly-cracked black pepper 1 C

fresh basil leaves

Peel tomatoes by dropping into boiling water for a few minutes. Fish out with a slotted spoon and, when

Eat and drink in French

Bistro

cool enough to handle, slip off the skins, then chop into large chunks.

Sauté the garlic in oil until golden in a large skillet. Add chopped tomatoes, and cook at high heat for about five minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the beans and a shake of salt and pepper. Cook for about 5-10 minutes until the beans are done.

Remove the beans and reduce the sauce if watery. Return beans to the skillet, add the basil, taste for seasoning and serve.

themarcrestaurant @themarcedmonton www.themarc.ca #100 9940-106 St. 780.429.2828

Serves 4-6 as a side dish.

pure prairie corn chowder Adapted from The Pure Prairie Eating Plan by Dr. Catherine Chan and Dr. Rhonda Bell. pureprairie.ca 1 T

canola oil

1½ c

chopped red pepper

1½ c

small cauliflower florets

kernels from 2 cobs fresh corn (about 1½ C) 1 c

chopped green onions

¼ c

low-fat cream cheese

2 c

skim milk

1 t

ground cumin

½ t

salt

½ t

black pepper

½ c

chopped fresh parsley

2 T

sharp cheddar shredded

Join us for our Seafood Summer starting July 7 Reserve Your Table Now www.pampasteakhouse.com

Heat the oil in a saucepan over med high heat. Add peppers and cauliflower and cook for 8 min or until tender.

Add corn, green onions, cream cheese; stir until cheese melts. Add milk and cook, covered, for about three minutes or until heated through. Do not boil.

Stir in cumin and seasoning and ½ the parsley.

Let stand for 10 minutes to combine flavours.

To serve: Spoon into 4 bowls and garnish with the rest of the parsley and the cheddar.

available Monday to Thursday for dinner service only

Serves 4.

The Tomato | September October 2014 25

lunch lady

| cindy lazarenko

Back to school (lunches) Back to school, back to the routine of homework, going to bed early and planning for school lunches.

In the summer, the kids get up late and often don’t eat immediately — breakfast and lunch meld together like everyday is Sunday and everyday they have brunch.

Sadly, without the usual bells and whistles.

It might be eggs and toast or simply just time for a second helping of oatmeal. If we’re hanging out at the cabin it’s more likely to be pancakes or waffles.

Whatever it is, it’s enough to get them through to an early dinner with a few satisfying afternoon snacks in between.

BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER 10053 Jasper Avenue Edmonton, AB

780.401.2222

www.unionbankinn.com Come Experience A Culinary Adventure

In September, we go back to being a three-meala-day family which means constantly having to dream up lunch ideas that are easy to eat, easy to pack and not embarrassing.

I admit, it’s taken me a few years to understand why some lunches come back uneaten. It’s the reverse of what is sometimes called “snack shaming”. What kind of mother sends their kids to school transporting tuna salad with black beans and corn in a sesame lime dressing? Imagine the horror when your child unscrews the lid from the stainless steel thermos to expose the smell of stinky fish and sesame so that their entire circle of friends can scream ‘ewwww’ and proceed to plug their noses.

My offspring have been exposed to some of the best food that Edmonton has to offer. Five years of their lives were spent hanging out in my own restaurant where they were introduced to many

26 September October 2014 | The Tomato

delicious, locally sourced and sometimes uncommon food items.

They’ve been to every farmer’s market and nearly every specialty food store in Edmonton. They dine at restaurants like Corso32 where recently they devoured whole plates of freshly made pasta and munched on arugula salad. They love the cheese selection at Cavern and will always beg for a chocolate bar from Jacek, their favourite being The Jackie, caramelized milk chocolate accessorized with fleur de sel. They regularly get to feast on food from Culina, aka Uncle Brad, and they’ve eaten more charcuterie and condiment selections then most adults.

So why then, I ask, will they not eat half of the lunches I pack for them for school? Often lunches are leftovers, which puzzles me because our dinnertime is generally a positive experience, enjoyable and void of complaints. Yet, pack it up for lunch and suddenly it becomes weird.

So the food is great for dinner in the privacy of our own home but it’s weird at school. I get it.

Peer pressure. No normal, selfrespecting kid eats spinach at lunch time. Understood.

When I was in junior high I remember walking home for lunch.

Some days, with both my parents at work and with a few Home Ec cooking classes under my belt, I loved to make myself a scrambled egg sandwich. I would take two slices of soft, fresh, white bread, which my mother stocked up on each week from the Co-op and stored in the freezer. We were never without white bread. I would spread both sides with just the right amount of butter. I’d grab our

best Teflon pan and crack a few eggs into it and proceed to watch the eggs set a little, then I would poke into the yolk and slowly scramble the eggs together with a fork (sorry mom – I probably never used the right utensil on your Teflon pans) until they firmed up just enough. Crispy, brown edges were not accepted. I placed them onto one of the buttered slices, the eggs melting the squishy bread. I would pour a bit of salt in my hand and ever so lightly season the eggs.

Top with the other slice of bread, slice in half and sit down to eat the most enjoyable lunch of my childhood.

I just spent a year making lunches for the Highlands Junior High students. With a fairly well-stocked kitchen and donated food items I was able to create all kinds of healthy, comforting, yet interesting dishes for the students. I happily made soups, stews and curries many times accompanied by fresh vegetable platters and wonderful salads, which they would, for the most part, gobble up. I introduced them to fresh fennel, coconut rice and homemade iced tea. I got to know the kids who were allergic to zucchini, the one who detested beans of any kind and the girl who simply adored punkin pie.

I served sliced apples sprinkled with a bit of brown sugar and cinnamon – like apple pie without the crust. I never put out whole oranges, always quartered, because it seems to be the only way to get kids to eat an orange. Any leftover oranges would often go into banana orange smoothies the next day made by some of the student volunteers.

I prepared a potato salad with yogurt dressing using organic potatoes I received from Sparrow’s Nest Organics. I used millet (donated by Culina) to replace rice on many occasions and eventually the students grew to like it, especially if it was doused with a flavourful sauce. On special days they were treated to minicupcakes from Whimsical Cakes,

Belgian chocolate ice cream from Pinnochio and the happiest day of all was when they got to sample Eva Sweet Waffles, all donations from generous friends in the food business.

What dish garnered the most requests both at school and at home? My mom’s beef barley soup.

My 10 year old pleaded, ‘Please mom, can you make it exactly the way Nana makes it. Don’t add anything else to it.’

Here is my mom’s recipe for beef barley soup, untouched.

beef barley soup Recipe from Taste of Home Magazine 1 lb beef top round steak, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 t

canola oil

cheese • wine+beer • espresso

discover us on 104 st. promenade 10169 - 104 street • edmonton | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | thecavern.ca mon - wed: 7am to 9pm | thurs - fri: 7am to 11pm | sat: 8am to 11pm | sun & hols: closed

Quality. Selection. Service.

No Compromises.

Aligra.

West Edmonton Mall • Inside Entrance 58 • Reserved Parking 780.483.1033 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com

facebook.com/aligrawine @Aligrawine

3 cans (14½ ounces each) beef broth 2 c 1/3

c

1 t 1/8

t

water medium pearl barley salt pepper

1 c

chopped carrots

½ c

chopped celery

¼ c

chopped onion

3 T

minced fresh parsley

1 c

frozen peas

In a Dutch oven, brown beef in oil; drain. Stir in the broth, water, barley, vegetables (except for frozen peas) salt and pepper. Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat; cover and simmer for ½ hour or until vegetables are tender. Stir in peas; heat through.

OnOurTable chef Cindy Lazarenko spent a year managing the hot lunch program at Highlands Junior High School.This year you will find her volunteering for the same program, presenting corporate Lunch & Learns discussing easy, healthy lunches to take to work and collaborating with her brother at Culina Catering.

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10525 Jasper Avenue • www.thewineroom.ca

The Tomato | September October 2014 27

Art of Pizza For the past 15 years I have been fortunate to have been commissioned to photograph food across Western Canada for various magazines, several book publishers and numerous restaurants. Without question, pizzas are my favorite food to photograph.

The circular shape of the dough is pleasing to the eye. Ingredients that can be used on a pizza are colorful and can be seemly endless.

But more importantly is that pizzaiolos who create them are artists in their own right. All of these elements combined are the reasons pizzas are themselves their own works of art.

For this photo essay I chose a cross-section of artisan-based pizzas from six different Edmonton pizzerias.

28 September SeptemberOctober October2014 2014 || The TheTomato Tomato

The images you see is what you will get if you visit one of these venues. There is no Photoshop, no food photography tricks or supplemental lighting for this series. Each pizza is photographed in natural light within minutes of being taken out of the forno oven.

Enjoy the art of pizza. — Curtis Comeau Pizzas provided by (clockwise from upper left): Rosso Pizzeria, Royal Pizza, Parlour Italian Kitchen and Bar, Rigazzi Bistro Italiano, Tony’s Pizza Palace and Cafe Leva.

event calendar friday sep 5 - sun sep 7

thursday, october 2

Brazil Independence Day Weekend Celebration, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, 780-756-7030

Port 101 Tasting Leduc CO-OP 780-980-5139

wednesday september 10 Gerard Bertrand Winemaker’s Dinner with Jean Pierre Turgeon The River House, 780-458-2232

monday, september 15 Miguel Torres Winemaker Dinner Renaissance Edmonton Airport Hotel tania.bodden@marriott.com

tuesday, september 16 Kettle Valley Winemaker’s Dinner with Bob Ferguson RGE RD 780-447-4577

tuesday, september 16 Miguel Torres Winemaker Dinner Pampa Brazilian Steak House 780 756-7030

wednesday september 17 Miguel Torres Winemaker Dinner featuring Torres Mas la Plana 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Continental Treat, 780-433-7432

monday, september 22 Yalumba Winemaker Dinner with Jane Ferrari The Melting Pot 780-465-4347

thursday, september 25 Italia with Gusto Fundraiser for Meals on Wheels mealsonwheelsedmonton. org/news/italia-with-gusto

tuesday, september 30 Edmonton Epicurean Society Dinner members.shaw.ca/epicurean

wednesday, october 1 Battle of the Bubbles Winemaker’s Dinner with Domaine Carneros’ Eilleen Crane and Taittinger Champagne’s Mikael Falkman Hardware Grill, 780-423-3133

fri, oct 3 - SAT, OCT 4 Octoberfest Northlands Expo Centre albertabeerfestivals.com

sunday, october 5 Harvest Wine and Cheese Festival Fundraiser for the French Quarter Farmers’ Market La Cité Francophone, eventbright.ca.

tuesday, october 7 Greywacke Vineyards Tasting with Kevin Judd, Crestwood Fine Wines 780-488-7800

Register Now for fall cooking classes!

SHARPEN UP YOUR CHEF SKILLS

thursday, october 9

For information call 780.464.4631 or visit register.thepantree.ca

Henry of Pelham Wine Tasting with Paul Speck Keg ’n Cork, 780-461-0191

#550, 220 Lakeland Dr. Sherwood Park, AB

friday, october 10

@PanTreeKitchen

/ThePanTree

Henry of Pelham Winemaker Dinner with Paul Speck Royal Mayfair G & CC, 780-433-9666

saturday, october 11 Dig In Festival Food and Wine Pairing with certified sommelier Mary Bailey diginstalbert.ca

fri, oct 17-sat oct 18 The Grape Escape by Co-op Wine Spirits Beer, coopwinespiritsbeer.com

fri, oct 24-sat, oct 25 2014 Edmonton Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival rockymountainwine.com

tuesday, october 28 Edmonton Epicurean Society Dinner members.shaw.ca/epicurean

wednesday, november 5 Glenfarclas Scotch: Tasting Speyside with George Grant Fort Edmonton Park, 780-442-5311

date tba Petrus Tasting The Wine Room thewineroom.ca

The Tomato | September October 2014 29

kitchen sink | what’s new and notable restaurant ramblings Celebrate all things Brazilian at Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse’s (9929 109 Street, pampasteakhouse.com, 780-756-7030) second annual Brazil Independence Day Weekend Celebration, September 5-7, including live Samba dance performers during dinner service.

Two new Mexico-inspired restaurants opened over the summer, El Cortez Tequila Bar and Kitchen (8230 Gateway Boulevard, 780-760-0200, elcortezcantina. com) featuring artisan mescal and tequila and Alex Sneazwell’s modern take on Latin cuisine, and Rostizado (102, 102 Mercer Warehouse, 10359 104 Street, 780761-0911, rostizado.com) the delicious new venture from the Tres Carnales dudes. And coming soon to the Central LRT station is Nate Box’s new venture called Burrow, bringing a new and tasty dimension to riding the LRT rails.

Expect good things from chef Nathin Bye’s new Ampersand 27, in the Murrietta’s space on Whyte Avenue, opening later this fall. “There are 27 bones in the human hand; these are the tools that help to cultivate and cook the food that we eat,” says Nathin. I have always loved different fonts and type and symbols, so the name is an amalgamation of art, font, number.” And let’s not forget delicious food. Chef Bye, the 2012 Gold Medal Plates champ is working with several local farmers and purveyors for the menu. We’re looking forward to this truly culinary addition to the Whyte Avenue scene.

Enjoy Dinner and a Movie nights at several restaurants around town; fave food flicks such as Ratatouille, Eat Drink Man Woman, Tampopo and Big Night are all part of the Relish Food on Film Festival, November 13-16. Find all the deets at relishfoodonfilm.org.

product news You can now purchase Mojo Jojo Pickles (mojojojopickles.com) in the local section of several SaveOn Foods in Edmonton and Sherwood Park, Baseline, Summerwood, Fir Street, Ellerslie, Hamptons, Summerside, Strathcona and Railtown, with more to come. “It’s been a game changer for us,” says chief pickle

30 September October 2014 | The Tomato

creator Johwanna Alleyne. “We’re really excited for the support and partnership they’ve shown our small but mighty local company.”

wine tasting happenings and events

Paraiso Tropical (9136 118 Avenue, paraisotropical.ca 780-479-6000) our favourite Latin American grocery, is opening a second store on the south side at 6924 Calgary Trail. “It’s a replica of our first store, only bigger,” says Aura Magana.

“We’ll still have a take out food area and eventually, we hope to open an actual café.”

Get ready for a jam-packed season of winemaker dinners and tastings this fall.

The amazing lineup starts with a four course winemakers dinner with Gerard Bertrand (2012 Red Winemaker of the Year) with export director Jean Pierre Turgeon, September 10 at The River House (8 Mission Avenue, St Albert, riverhousedining.net, 780 458-2232).

Tickets are $80++.

About.spud.com spud is a new online grocery delivery service headed by Edmonton-born, Seattle-based Peter Van Stolk, the founder of Jones Soda.

Spud joins locally owned Organic Box in offering organic, local and specialty groceries to Edmonton area households.

Check out Earth’s General Store (9605 82nd Avenue, 780-439-8725, 10150 104 Street, 780-757-3274gs.ca) second location on the 104 street Promenade.

It’s marvellous — friendly, well-stocked, well-organized and carries Q Tonic. Owner Michael Kalmanovitch is a pioneer in organic and eco-friendly products; it’s great to see this addition to downtown.

The Marketplace at Callingwood (69 Avenue and 178 Street) hosts the 16th Annual Cornfest, Saturday, September 12pm-5pm. Funds raised benefit the Firefighters Burn Treatment Society.

Newget Kompany (newget.ca, 780-9951115) is your one stop solution to gift giving. Stock up on your favourite Newget at the City Market downtown on 104 Street, September 6, October 4 and 11.

cooking classes Learn tips and tricks of the trade gleaned from decades of holiday cooking with Brad Smoliak at Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, kitchenbybrad.ca, 780-757-7704).

Brad shows how to make meal planning a cinch, from the turkey and easy side dishes to do-ahead gravy. Classes run October 2 or October 11. Enjoy a lesson in Southern comfort food on October 7 and October 18.

Classes are $135 per person + gst. Space is limited. Contact info@kitchenbybrad.ca for bookings. Check the website for the most up to date listings of classes and events.

The newly opened Renaissance Edmonton Airport Hotel presents a decadent four-course dinner by chef Brandon Pridie with the wines of Spain’s Miguel Torres with Anna Manchon, Torres brand ambassador, Monday, September 15. Contact tania.bodden@ marriott.com for tix, $50/person.

Want to tell your chenins from your chards? Or learn why some wines taste like vanilla and others like butter? Learn to taste like a pro in a Wine Spirit Education Trust (WSET) program, taught in 58 countries, and in Edmonton by wine professionals Natasha Susylinski and Mary Bailey. Level I Foundation begins Mondays, October 6-November 10 (no class Thanksgiving weekend); Level II, Wednesdays, October 8-December 17; and Level IIIa Advanced, Tuesdays, October 7-December 23. Visit winecollege.ca, or call 1-888-988-8009 and ask for Angela Landon.

Meet the entertaining and talented Bob Ferguson, owner of Kettle Valley in Naramata, at a winemakers dinner at RGE RD (10643 – 123 Street, rgerd.ca) Monday, September 15. For tickets, $150 including tax and gratuity, call 780-447-4577.

Prost! Enjoy Octoberfest at Northlands Expo Centre, Friday October 3: 4pm-10pm; Saturday, October 4, 2pm- 9pm. Edmonton Oktoberfest features local and authentic Bavarian brew and a wide selection of craft beers, delicious foods to sample, authentic Oktoberfest music from the German Knights Band, dancers and games. Tickets available at all Brewster’s locations and albertabeerfestivals.com. Proceeds to the Edmonton Food Bank.

GM Ad Final April 18, 2014.pdf

1

2014-04-21

1:57 PM

Love wine? Join us for “Happy Monday”!

C

It doesn’t get much better than delicious Spanish wine and Brazillian-style barbecue. Enjoy both at the Miguel Torres Winemaker Dinner, Tuesday, September 16, with Anna Manchon, at Pampa Brazillian Steakhouse (9929 109 Street, 780-756-7030).

The Continental Treat (10560 82 Avenue, ctfinebistro-hub. com) presents a Miguel Torres Winemaker Dinner with special treat 2009 Torres Mas la Plana Cab Sauv (and Anna Manchon) Wednesday, September 17. Tickets, $125, 780-433-7432.

Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge’s annual Christmas in November ramps up with three packages November 7-16. Reason enough to attend: the inestimable chef Lynn Crawford, Iron Chef, Top Chef, 2014 Hokansen chef in residence, and proprietor of Toronto’s Ruby Watchco. If you need more reasons, RGE RD’s Blair Lebsack and Caitlin Fulton; John Jackson and Connie DeSousa of Calgary’s Charcut Roast House; Julie van Rosendal and Pierre Lamielle; Anna and Michael Olsen (who will be working with Alberta Pork on the secrets of the charcuterie board) and Tres Carnales. Find all the details at christmasinnovember.com Meet the irrepressible Jane Ferrari of Yalumba Winery and get your bottle of 2010 Signature (with Jane on the back) signed during the Yalumba Winemaker Dinner at The Melting Pot (2920 Calgary Trail, meltingpot.com). Call 780-465-4347 for tickets, $70 and $95, Monday September 22.

Soup Night with Maggie Stuckey, Thursday, September 18, 7pm8:30pm, St Albert Public Library (5 St Anne Street, St Albert, sapl. ca/programs). Soup brings people together and when neighbours share, strong community ties are built. In Soup Night: Recipes for Creating Community, author Maggie Stuckey shares recipes, explains how to start a neighbourhood soup night. To register, 780-459-1682.

The Edmonton Epicurean Society has two dinners planned for the fall, Tuesday, September 23 and Tuesday October 28.Visit members.shaw.ca/epicurean for further details.

M

Y

Bottles under $40... half price!

All other bottles... $20 off!

CM

MY

CY

CMY

Love Italian wine? Don’t miss the 2014 Italia with Gusto, Thursday, September 25, at Porsche Centre Edmonton (11107 – 170 Street) from 7pm -9:30pm. Tickets: $100, mealsonwheelsedmonton.org, 780-429-2020. It’s the best Italian tasting of the year bar none.

Proceeds to Edmonton Meals on Wheels.

K

Love bubbles? Don’t miss the Battle of the Bubbles Wine maker Dinner featuring two giants of sparkling wine, Eileen Crane of Domaine Carneros and Mikael Falkman Taittinger. Enjoy the fabulous menu paired to suit

by Larry Stewart, Wednesday, October 1 at Hardware Grill (9698 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-0969, hardwaregrill.com), $125 includes tax and gratuity.

Learn everything you always wanted to know about port at the Leduc Co-op Port 101 Tasting with special guest Cynthia Opsal, the brand ambassador for The Fladgate Partnership, $25/person, Thursday October 2 at the Leduc Co-Op (100 Deer Valley Drive, leduccoopliquor.ca, 780-980-5139).

Enjoy the Harvest Wine and Cheese at La Cité Francophone, in support of the French Quarter Farmers’ Market, Sunday, October 5, from 12:30pm-3pm. Expect local and French cheeses, wines, door prizes and a silent auction.

Tickets, $60 at Café Bicyclette, and eventbright.ca.

Meet and taste with New Zealand wine icon Kevin Judd of Greywacke Vineyards, 7pm, October 7, at Crestwood Fine Wine & Spirits (9658 142 Street, crestwoodfinewines.com, 780-488-7800).

5842 - 111 Street

www.glassmonkey.ca

780.760.2228

UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT

Friendly, knowlegable WSET-trained staff.

9658 - 142 Street | 780-488-7800 | crestwoodfinewines.com

LOCAL FOOD wine - beer - whisk(e)y

Wed-Thu 4-10pm

Fri-Sat 12-12

please call or email for reservation 100, 21 Perron St. • St. Albert • 780-569-5479 • privadawinebar.com

Where all the best parties happen.

780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street Please see “Kitchen Sink” on page 32

The Tomato | September October 2014 31

kitchen sink Nourishing Entertainment!

Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video.

continued from page 31

Meet Paul Speck of Niagara’s Henry of Pelham at Keg n ’Cork Liquor Company (3845 99 Street, 780-461-019, kegncork.com) Thursday, October 9. Tasting begins at 6:30pm, $20/person.

Creature from the Black Lagoon Celebrate Metro Cinema’s 3rd Anniversary at the Garneau with this classic creature feature in 3D. September 12, Doors @ 6PM

Chef A chef who loses his restaurant job starts up a food truck.

September 23, 30 @ 7PM October 1 @ 9:15PM

The God of Ramen The life of the man behind Japan’s most treasured ramen. Screening as part of the Japan Film Festival.

October 5 @ 2PM

Free admission!

Metro Cinema at the Garneau

Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:

8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org

FINE WINE, SPIRITS AND ALES

The Royal Mayfair Golf and Country Club presents a fourcourse winemaker dinner with Paul Speck of Henry Of Pelham Family winery, on October 10.

Tickets $50, call 780-433-9666.

Lots of events to choose from at Dig In!, St. Albert’s Horticulinary Festival, October 10 and 11. Enjoy hands-on seminars on landscaping, gardening, mixology, jam-making, pickling and an interactive wine tasting October 11 with the Tomato’s certified sommelier, Mary Bailey. The Blue Flame Kitchen will be there, and you have the opportunity to bake with Top Chef Canada’s Karine Moulin.

Don’t miss the Alberta Ate Chef Collaborative dinner featuring chefs Blair Lebsack (RGE RD); Julia Kundera (The Glasshouse Bistro); Doreen Prei (Edmonton Petroleum Club); Danielle Job (Holt Renfrew Café); Brad Lazarenko and Steven Furgiuele (Culina). Book dinner tickets and your sessions at diginstalbert.ca Here’s a terrific tasting opportunity; The Grape Escape brought to you by Co-op Wine Spirits Beer, Friday, October 17 and Saturday, October 18, from 5pm to 9pm at the Expo Centre, Edmonton Northlands. The Grape

Escape is a fun and informative evening featuring wine, spirits and beer samples from producers from all over the world. Tickets are $50 each +GST, available at the Co-op MacTaggart Ridge (5962 Mullen Way), 780-432-2258, or online coopwinespiritsbeer.com The popular Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival rolls into town Friday, October 24 and Saturday, October 25. Sample premium wines, spirits, import and micro-brewed beer as well as a mouthwatering array of dishes from several of Edmonton’s top eateries. The Festival features a Saturday afternoon session, providing even more opportunity to sip and sample. Indulge! Tickets at rockymountainwine.com Taste fine Speyside at the Glenfarclas Scotch Tasting with owner George Grant on Wednesday, November 5 at Fort Edmonton Park (7000 143 Street, fortedmontonpark.ca, 780-4425311). Lineup includes 15, 17, 21, 25, 30 and 40 year single highland Malt Whisky. The tasting begins at 7pm, $50/person.

The Wine Room (10525 Jasper Avenue, thewineroom.ca, 780-7567666) is planning a black tie Petrus Tasting sometime in October or November featuring three vintages from the 1990’s and three from the 2000’s. Wow! Check thetomato.ca or thewineroom.ca for details when released.

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

Fine Wines by Liquor Select Coming soon to Edmonton Centre!

780.458.4777 • info@unwined.biz www.unwined.biz • 2, 512 St. Albert Trail

Fine Wines | Exceptional Staff | Private Tasting Room Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen.

8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com

32 September October 2014 | The Tomato

Fall Event Tasting Calendar Sip, swirl and sample during unique tastings featuring wine, spirits or beer. hardware grill est. 1996

hardware grill est. 1996

hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

Pick yours up in store today!

5962 Mullen Way – 780-432-2258 coopwinespiritsbeer.com

seasonal prairie cuisine • the evolution of tradition www.hardwaregrill.com / 780.423.0969 / 9698 Jasper Ave also visit our newest downtown restaurant: tavern 1903 at alberta hotel

according to judy | judy schultz Vegomania The summer whizzed by, as the best summers always do. In a season gone, but not forgotten, the memorable meals all started in the garden.

If I had half a dozen do-overs, they’d include one golden evening in tiny Markerville, when the population suddenly quadrupled and we all sat together at a table that stretched for blocks. The Taste of Markerville’s Long Table Dinner showcased nine Alberta chefs, 13 local producers and a pack of friendly people enjoying, among other good things, an English pea gazpacho, a rhubarb marshmallow with crispy prosciutto and cucumber, and pickled baby potatoes with dill sour cream. Yum. Then there was a warm evening on the deck at The Marc, not a whiffle of a breeze anywhere, just cold Sauvignon Blanc and a pile of hot frites with truffle-kissed aioli for dipping.

At the height of tomato season, the usual orange and yellow cocktail tomatoes were joined by dark green, striped and purple-to-black varieties that turned my salad platters into rainbows.

These oddball tomatoes weren’t just a pretty face. They were sweet or sharp or spicy, depending on variety, and probably on heat units. In a dark green and purple tomato with rather tough skin, I feared bland, but got sweetness with a touch of spice.

My favourite tomato dish of the summer was an accident, a tomato mozza toast that started with baby tomatoes and bocconcini that had been marinated in a fruity olive oil with garlic and basil. There were leftovers, which I spooned onto toasted baguettes. Sprinkled the toasts with a few shards of Asiago, ran it under the broiler. Again, yum!

I also loved an accidental kale and arugula omelette. Bought the baby kale and arugula mixture to beef up one lonely arugula plant from my kitchen-door garden, and had leftovers. Rough-chopped them, made a fast stir-fry with a single slice of bacon, poured in beaten

34 September October 2014 | The Tomato

eggs, topped it with crumbles of goat cheese. The bitter edge of arugula and kale mellowed nicely and the cheese brought it all together. Next time I’ll throw in a few mushrooms.

The best berry dishes were fresh and wild. When our friend Freddie showed up on his Kawasaki with a huge pail of saskatoons, what could I do but make pie? Dug up the family recipe from Saskatchewan – no fancy fluted edges, just a casual, gorgeously rustic pie with a subtle afterglow of almond, that almost-not-there flavour that fresh saskatoons always bring to the dish.

(There was also the hand-churned saskatoon/rhubarb ice cream at a Saskatchewan reunion, and Saskatoon waffles, but you had to be there.)

Now, about carrots. I don’t care what anybody says, carrots right out of the garden are beyond delicious.

They’re the reason I’m part of a community garden. Scrub ‘em, steam ‘em, stir in some butter. Speck of salt, whiz of pepper. Those sweet baby carrots were among the best thing I ate this summer, along with skinny yellow beans and fresh green peas.

Finally, in praise of the lowly onion, here’s an end-of-summer onion salad to go with beef, any cut, any time.

More method than recipe, it’s perfect for a fall barbecue. Start with two big, fleshy onions, one red, one white.

Slice them into a bowl, and blanch them. (Pour fiercely boiling water over onions, count to ten and drain.

Immediately, cover with ice cold water. Drain that too.) The onions will be pliable, though still crunchy, and will have lost the hot, sulphuric bite that makes onion-haters squirm.

Now add a dressing: half mayo, half sour cream, and as much celery seed as you like. Season to taste, cover and refrigerate several hours. Stir in a good bash of chopped parsley and the juice of half a lemon. This is terrific piled on burgers, or as a side with steak. Enjoy.

Judy Schultz is a food and travel writer.

She never met a vegetable she didn’t love.

FOOD ON FILM

FOOD ON FILM

A film festival about food culture

A different kind of film festival

Foodists, faddists, paleos, vegans, vegetarians, gluten freeists, beer geeks, cocktailists, wine lovers, Japanese knife aficionados, kill your dinner, eat it raw, chefs, cooks, heaters of water, makers of reservations.

Films about people and food.

FOOD ON FILM After all, everybody eats.

Whatever wolf pack you belong to we have a movie for you.

On screen November 13-16, 2014 at Metro Cinema – the home of Relish.

Dinner and a Movie events at restaurants around town.

FOOD ON FILM

French language food films at La Cité Francophone.

Kid’s Programme sponsored by the Italian Centre Shop and the Frank Spinelli Memorial Foundation. FOOD ON FILM

Movies worth watching on a big screen Films to inspire and entertain; documentaries to provoke and enlighten; classics, comedies, culinary dramas; wine adventures, gastronomic extravaganzas, movies for kids and the young at heart.

Speakers to inspire conversation.

Food and drink experiences.

A place for food lovers to gather.

Relish Food on Film Festival is brought to you by:

Volunteer and sponsorship opportunities available.

Frank Spinelli Memorial Foundation

www.relishfilmfest.org FOOD ON FILM @RelishFestyeg #relishfoodonfilm

Frank Spinelli Memorial Foundation

Le Creuset Stainless Steel Cookware

Barb’s Kitchen Centre 9766 – 51 Avenue NW 780-437-3134

Bella Casa 9646 – 142 Street NW 780-437-4190

The Pan Tree Sherwood Park 550 – 220 Lakeland Drive 780-464-4631

Zenari’s 10180 101 St NW #135 780-423-5409

Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories