The Tomato September October 2015

Take a bite of your city | September October 2015 | thetomato.ca

The Autumn Issue

NOVEMBER 5-7, 2015

An Alberta Culture

Top 10 Alberta Food Festival A film festival about food culture.

Movies worth watching on the big screen.

Speakers to inspire conversation.

Food and drink experiences.

A place for food lovers to gather.

Relish Fest is presented by the Relish Food on Film Festival Society

On screen November 5-7, 2015 at Metro Cinema in Edmonton’s historic Garneau Theater: the home of Relish Food Fest.

Films about people and food.

After all, everybody eats.

• Dinner & a Movie events at restaurants around town.

• French language food films at La Cité Francophone.

• Call for entries for short films on food: Tell us a Food Story

www.relishfilmfest.org @RelishFestyeg

#relishfoodonfilm

Contents

Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Features

Publisher BGP Publishing

Forging Alberta’s food culture identity | Mary Bailey

Copy Editor Don Retson

Illustration/Photography

12 Meet the Gold Medal Plates chefs Ten hopefuls compete to become Edmonton’s top chef

14 How to Eat Like an Italian!

Italians are famous for their love of food | Vivian Zenari

Departments

Advertising Sales

5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Design and Prepress Bossanova Communications Inc.

10 Make the Most of the Harvest Bounty Seasonal vegetable recipes

Mary Bailey Curtis Comeau Photography Two Words Productions

John Quark

8 36 Hours in the South Okanagan Autumn is glorious in wine country | Mary Bailey

Contributing Writers Tracey L. Armstrong Peter Bailey Shawna Derksen Cindy Lazarenko Judy Schultz Vivian Zenari

6 The Making of the Cook It Raw Stories

16 Wine Maven Mary Bailey

Printer

18 Beer Guy Cider rules | Peter Bailey

Distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802

20 What Do You Eat? Pilar Martinez, Edmonton Public Library CEO | Shawna Derksen

22 Feeding People Fruit spared, abundance shared | Tracey L. Armstrong

24 The Lunch Lady Of course I can! | Cindy Lazarenko

26 The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Kathryn Joel, Get Cooking Edmonton

32 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

34 According to Judy Ode to a small garden | Judy Schultz

Cover illustration: Pierre Lamielle, pierrelamielle.com.

Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca

The Tomato | September October 2015 3

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Dish

gastronomic happenings around town chefs rock in calgary

oil and vinegar do mix

Photo courtesy Charcut

The top-notch Women Chefs and Restaurateurs (WCR) mentorship organization is coming to Calgary, October 2 with an amazing roster—chefs Lynn Crawford (Ruby WatchCo, Top Chef Masters), Elizabeth Falkner (WCR past President, Chopped All-Stars), Connie DeSousa (Charcut, Top Chef ) and restaurateur Sal Howell (River Café, Boxwood).

Winsport exec chef and WCR member Liana Robberecht, instrumental in bringing the conference to Calgary, is chair of the first WCR event to be held outside the US. What’s in it for you? Whether you are an established chef or restaurateur, or just starting out, come to the WCR conference to meet and learn from some the biggest names in the field. It’s an opportunity to be inspired, to gain insight and to network with hospitality colleagues. Tickets: wcrconference.info. Early bird tickets are $175, $225 after September 14.

Chef Nathin Bye of Ampersand 27 had three things in mind when creating menus for Diner en Blanc.

“Even though the food is made to be served cold it still has to have substance and good taste,” he says. “It has to stay true to the idea of a French picnic and the food has to be in the Parisian style of eating—nibble, take a sip of wine, share or trade a bit of bread and cheese.”

Lisa Makelki photo

Guests chose from three options: the vegetarian Une Belle Soiree, salad, pecorino and house-made ricotta cheeses, house-made pretzels and mustards, a goat cheese vol-au-vent and a smoked single origin chocolate mousse. The Pièce de Résistance menu adds duck and chicken liver pate, a variety of house-made charcuterie, candied and smoked salmon, and a salted caramel marcaron. Saveur Traditionelle is a three-course dinner starting with a frisée and roasted beet tartlette, a confit Sunworks hen leg and thigh, marinated green bean salad, tomato, roasted fingerlings, and a vanilla and ice wine panna cotta. The organizers expect 1500 people this year on September 3. Let’s hope we don’t get hit with a deluge like last year.

vegetables a to z Rose Murray’s newest book contains over 250 tried and true recipes ranging from homey to dinner party-worthy, all in an easy peasy alphabetical format. Each chapter is headed by practical information on how to choose, store and cook each vegetable—lots of good stuff here.

We feature the tarragon-buttered beets recipe on page 10. Rose Murray’s A-Z Vegetable Cookbook, Formac Publishing, $24.95.

Oil & Vinegar, Commerce Place, 10155 102 Street, 780-705-7150, opening mid-September.

dinner in white

relish food on film It’s year two for the Relish Food on Film Festival at Metro Cinema, La Cité Francophone and RelishFest Dinners & a Movie around town. Highlights: The northern Alberta premiere of An Alberta Farm, which garnered first place in the 2015 Big Rock Eddies; special screenings of the Cook it Raw videos; RelishFest Dinner & a Movie featuring chef Doreen Prei at Get Cooking October 29, and a unique long table dinner at La Cité Francophone.

Relish was chosen as one of Alberta Culture’s Top Do Not Miss Food Festivals in the province. New this year is Tell us a Food Story.

Relish is looking for short films on food by pros and amateurs alike. Find the call for entries and the full program at relishfilmfest.org and get ready to go to the movies!

Lisa Makelki’s new shop Oil & Vinegar features extra virgin olive oils from Greece, Italy, Spain, Turkey, South America and California; high-quality grape seed oils from California; walnut, avocado and pumpkin oils and Mediterranean pantry items such as spices, mustards, tapenades and hand-made Italian pastas. “My mission is to have Edmontonians use these oils like Mediterranean people do,” says Lisa. “There is study after study that supports the Mediterranean diet and the importance of good quality olive oil to heart health.”

Curtis Comeau Photography

Top: Connie DeSousa of Calgary’s Charcut; middle: Lisa Makelki’s soon to open Oil & Vinegar shop; middle left: Relish Food on Film Festival; middle right: Ampersand 27’s Nathin Bye and Diner en Blanc platter; bottom: Rose Murray’s latest cookbook.

The Tomato | September October 2015 5

The making of the

COOK IT stories RAW

Three Edmonton Cook it Raw chefs talk about their ingredients, their Calgary partners and what happens next in forging the Alberta food culture identity.

Tannis Baker (ACTA), Jay Lawrance and Locke Vincent (Two Words Productions) film Shane Chartrand (pink shirt) and John Schneider for their Cook It Raw food story video at Schneider’s Gold Forest Grains farm, while Cindy Schneider (print dress) looks on.

Photos by Mary Bailey, except where credited.

6 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Two Words Productions still image

In October, top chefs from around the world—Albert Adria, Spain; Elizabeth Falkner, Amanda Cohen, Preeti Mistri and Brandon Baltzley,US; Magnus Ek, Sweden; and Syrco Bakker,Holland— join the Alberta Cook It Raw chefs in Kananaskis for a week of discussion, cooking, foraging, discovery and creation, culminating in the creation of seven iconic Alberta dishes.

Win dinner with the chefs: every week Cook It Raw shares a question about Alberta gastronomy. Post an answer with a photo or video to social media using hashtag #rawAlberta @cookitraw.

The Edmonton Cook it Raw chefs worked on the farm and in the kitchen this summer with their southern Alberta chef partners and video producers Two Words Productions. The Cook it Raw food stories will air later this year online and at the Relish Food on Film Festival.

Here they talk about their ingredients, the collaborative experience and what happens next in defining the Alberta food culture identity.

Blair Lebsack, Rge Rd and Cam Dobranski, Brasserie Kensington

ROOT VEGETABLES “It’s fun that we’re getting to work together in a way that makes us focus on the community as a whole,” says Blair.

“The question is: how can we be true to what we are doing in our restaurants and collaborate? Not Cam’s food, not Blair’s food but Alberta’s food. And it’s not about Inset photos from top left facing page: Cam Dobranski scrapes hide and Blair Lebsack prepares salad at the Cook It Raw event held this summer at Lac la Biche; Andrew Winfield; and the results of Shane and Andrew’s labours.

how wierd we can be, but what can we do with ingredients people love every day.

“So far we are thinking about potatoes, beets, turnips, some sunchokes we hope, and then we’ll get into how to draw out extra flavour—maybe salt baking some of the veg. When you salt bake they steam a bit more, push out their juices and concentrate flavours. Our thinking is revolving around the fire—we like those natural ways of cooking with hot rocks or wood to help to finish off the dish.

“Kananaskis is still out there as this mystery goal. Working with the international chefs will be like having a whole new brain, one that has never seen this territory before. We’ll have freedom and creative juices flowing, as we don’t have a chance to think about this every day.

“It’s all coming together in an organic way. I’m ready to get together with our group of friends and do some cooking.”

presents

Shane Chartrand, Sage and Andrew Winfield, River Cafe

RED FIFE WHEAT “We met at SAIT to make our Red Fife dish,” says Shane. “I hadn’t met Andrew before and it could have gone in many different directions but it was almost too easy.

2015 GRAND TASTING HALL ALBERTA’S LARGEST SELECTION OF FINE WINE, SPIRITS, BEER & GOURMET FOOD

“He opened his cooler from the garden and we had a few ideas.

“We stood face to face at the SAIT workstations and started drawing our dish on paper. We were talking about making bread, that was the obvious choice. We started grilling green onions and bouncing ideas. Ok, what do you think about Red Fife lightly battered quail legs, little lollipops?

EDMONTON Nov. 6 - 7 Shaw Conference Centre

SIP, SAMPLE, VOTE IN THE FESTIVAL APP!

Friday Evening Session: 5 - 10 pm Saturday Afternoon Session: 12 - 4 pm Saturday Evening Session: 6 - 10 pm Supporting NAIT culinary school, Edmonton Food Bank, Mealshare, and Jumpstart.

Please enjoy your beverages responsibly. Minors are not permitted.

For Tickets, Festival and Contest Details, visit rockymountainwine.com

Please see “Cook It Raw” on page 27.

The Tomato | September October 2015 7

thirty-six hours in the

south okanagan • mary bailey • Autumn is glorious in wine country. Harvest is on the go, there are concerts and winery dinners to attend and the roadside stands are overflowing with late season stone fruit, apples and pears and colourful pumpkins and squash.

A ray of sunlight, or “God talking” in the barrel room at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards.

September October October 2015 2015 || The The Tomato Tomato 88 September

All photos Mary Bailey.

But don’t knock yourself out and spend most of your trip driving Hwy 97. Decide to spend your visit in the north, central or south and explore it in a leisurely fashion making time for hikes, swims in the pool, long picnic lunches, cinq à sept on a winery patio. Or, take advantage of the guided sit-down tastings several wineries are now offering to learn what’s happening in the vineyard and in the cellar.

WHERE TO TASTE Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 537 Tinhorn Creek Road, Oliver, tinhorn.com Tasting room/wineshop open Culmina Family Estate Winery Road 13, Oliver, culmina.ca Sit down guided tasting by appointment.

Maverick Estate Winery 3974 BC-97, Oliver, maverickwine.ca Tasting room/wineshop open Black Hills Estate Winery 4318 Black Sage Road, Oliver blackhillswinery.com Sit down guided tasting.

tinhorn creek vineyards

Le Vieux Pin 5496 Black Sage Rd, Oliver, levieuxpin.ca Tasting room/wineshop open, plus Celler Chaperone guided tasting.

Mirador Restuarant is a don’t miss for the views, chef Jeff Van Geest’s sure-footed kitchen style, demonstrated by a dish made with fresh burratta and fruit picked just a few miles away, and for Manny Ferreira’s hospitality.

The wine list highlights not just Tinhorn but stellar bottlings from up and down the valley.

Stoneboat Vineyards 356 Orchard Grove Lane, Oliver, stoneboatvineyards.com Tasting room/wineshop open

The 2014’s are winemaker Andrew Windsor’s first vintage. “I have been working with these vineyards for over 20 years,” says Sandra. “I wanted to see our fruit through someone else’s eyes. It’ll still be Tinhorn but it’s exciting to see what Andrew brings to it.”

WHERE TO STAY Spirit Ridge Resort 1200 Rancher Creek Rd, Osoyoos spiritridge.ca

culmina family estate winery

Watermark Resort 15 Park Place, Osoyoos watermarkbeachresort.com

“Let’s pop up to Culmina to get some photos. It was raining and cloudy the last time I was here.”

WHERE TO EAT

There’s no popping up to Culmina. The spectacular new vineyard perched on the top of the Golden Mile Bench offers a guided tasting which is well worth booking. We were fortunate to be able to join a tasting with some Ottawa visitors led by Donald Triggs and his daughter Sara. Their veteran winemaker Pascal Madevon was in the vineyard, eager to show off the quality of the fruit and the state of the art monitoring system. “Look at these vines,” he says excitedly. “We’re three weeks ahead and they are impeccable.”

Black Hills Estate Vineyard Kitchen 4318 Black Sage Road, Oliver blackhillswinery.com, 250-498-0666 Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek 537 Tinhorn Creek Road tinhorn.com/Restaurant, 250-498-3742 Talons Restaurant at Spirit Ridge 1200 Rancher Creek Road, Osoyoos spiritridge.ca/talons-restaurant, 250-495-5445

maverick estate winery Bertus Albertyn of Maverick Estate Winery may be new to Canada but he is not new to wine—he is an accomplished wine maker and viticulturalist from South Africa. There is an Alberta connection—fatherin-law Shalk de Witt practised medicine in Vegreville for a few decades. It is a family affair. My first experience at Maverick saw the entire family hauling in small bins of just-picked Sauvignon Blanc last fall. Just Please see “36 Hours” on page 28.

Watermark Wine Bar and Patio 15 Park Place, Osoyoos watermarkbeachresort.com, 250-495-5508

Photos clockwise from top: Chef Jeff Van Geest in the kitchen at Tinhorn; Culmina winemaker Pascal Madevon; Culmina’s vineyard dog Barry, backed by spectacular scenery.

Both Air Canada and West Jet fly to Penticiton via Calgary or Vancouver (approximately three hours). Car rentals are available at the Penticton airport.

The Tomato | September October 2015 9

MAKE THE MOST OF THE

Harvest Bounty MARY BAILEY

It’s the end of the tender beets, corn and rapini. Zucchinis threaten to become doorstops. We want to eat soup again.

And everything is better with cheese.

Here’s how to enjoy it all before the first heavy frost.

Corn and Arugula Salad with Roasted Pine Nuts and Parmigiano Vinaigrette “This simple salad is perfect during BC and Alberta corn season. Make sure you grate the Parmigiano as fresh and fine as possible to ensure it emulsifies into your vinaigrette.”

– Daniel Costa corso 32 2 c corn, freshly shucked or frozen, thawed 3

handful arugula

¾ c Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly and finely grated ¼

c lemon juice

½

c extra virgin olive oil

½

c pine nuts

1

t kosher salt

Preheat your oven to 375ºF. Bake the pine nuts on a sheet pan until golden, about 8 minutes, moving the pine nuts every couple of minutes to avoid burning.

If using fresh corn, cut the kernels off the cob. In a medium pot of boiling and salted water blanch the corn for 30 seconds or until just tender. Using a spider, pull the corn out of the water and place in an ice bath.

Place the lemon, olive oil, salt and grated cheese in a bowl and whisk until emulsified.

To serve: place the arugula, corn and pine nuts in a large bowl. Using your hands, gently toss the vinaigrette into the salad, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with a little more freshly grated Parmigiano and pine nuts on top.

Serves 4 as an appetizer.

Indian Summer Squash Soup Indian spices go particularly well with squashes and pumpkin. This is an excellent way to use up yellow zucchini, crookneck or pattypans that have gotten too big.

Serve the soup garnished with the chopped tomato and parsley.

3

fillets anchovy, finely chopped

1

c dry white wine

Serves 6-8.

1

pinch chili

Rose Murray’s Tarragon Buttered Beets

3

T butter

1

t cumin seeds

1

t coriander seeds

1

t yellow mustard seeds

¼

t cardamom seeds

⅓

c butter

2

star anise (or to taste)

1

t finely chopped fresh tarragon

½

t salt

½ t ground cinnamon

¼

t pepper

½

t turmeric

½

t finely grated lemon zest

¼

t cayenne pepper, or to taste

2

t fresh lemon juice

1

T chopped fresh parsley

1 1-inch piece cinnamon stick or

1½ t fresh ginger root, peeled and minced 1

large yellow onion, sliced

4 c chopped yellow summer squash sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper 6

c water or vegetable stock

½

c cream or plain yogurt

1

tomato, chopped for garnish

parsley for garnish

Using a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle, grind the cumin, coriander, cardamom, yellow mustard seeds and the star anise to a fine powder. Add to the turmeric and cayenne. In the bottom of a stockpot or Dutch oven, heat butter and add the ground spices. Stir over medium heat until fragrant (about 3 minutes) then add the onion and cook until transparent. Add the squash and cook until limp, about ten minutes. Add the ginger, cinnamon stick, seasoning and about ½ cup of stock. Continue to cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add the rest of the stock and simmer for about 15 minutes.

Remove the cinnamon stick and using an immersion blender whiz the soup making it as chunky or smooth as you like. Thin with more stock or water if necessary, check seasoning and stir in cream or yogurt.

10 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Adapted from Rose Murray’s A-Z Vegetable Book.

3 dozen tiny beets (or equivalent large, chopped in quarters)

Wash the beets and remove the tops except for 2 inches (5 cm) of the stems.

Leave the roots on. Place the beets in a large saucepan and cover with boiling salted water. Cook, covered, until just tender when pierced with a fork (about 20 to 25 minutes for fresh young beets).

Do not overcook. Drain and cool under running cold water. Rub off the skins and cut off tops and roots. (The beets can be prepared in advance to this point).

In a large, heavy skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add beets, tarragon, salt, pepper, lemon rind and lemon juice.

Shake the pan well or stir gently and allow the beets to heat through, about 5 minutes. Serve on a heated platter with a dusting of parsley.

Serves 8.

Braised Rapini “This is my all-time fave fall/winter veg. My nonna had this on the table pretty much with every meal.” – Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro 1

bunch rapini, chopped

½

head roasted garlic

2

T extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper

On medium heat put oil, garlic, anchovy and chili in a medium-deep pan. Heat these ingredients about 3 minutes so your flavours start to come together.

Add rapini to pan and toss to cover with oil mixture. Reduce heat to a simmer, add the white wine, season to taste and cover with a lid. Simmer about 15 to 20 minutes tossing every 5 minutes.

Serves 4-6.

Chard with Butter and Cheese (Coste al Burro con Parmigiano) My neighbour had a ton of chard this year, some damaged by hail but still tasty. Adapted from Two Greedy Italians Eat Italy.

1

large head of chard

2

T butter

spritz lemon juice ½

c walnuts, chopped

½

c Parmigiano, grated

sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper

Cut the tough ends from the chard, then wash well. Tear the leaves and chop the stems into bite-sized pieces.

Melt butter in a pan, add chard stems, season and cook with the lid on for about ten minutes, basting with water when necessary. Add leaves, spritz with lemon juice and cook for about another 5-10 minutes with the lid on.

Add the nuts and the cheese and cook without the lid until any excess moisture has dried up and the cheese is melted.

Serve immediately with more cheese if preferred.

Serve 4-6.

Cabbage and Bacon Bread Pudding

Madison’s Grilled Corn Salsa

Brad Smoliak, Kitchen by Brad

“My favourite accompaniment for beef, pork or fish.” – executive chef Jon Spanton, Madison’s Grill

1 loaf crusty bread, diced in approx ½ inch cubes (about 6 cups)

4 heads of corn, grilled until 50 per

5

eggs, beaten

1

c 10 per cent cream

½

red onion, diced

1

c chicken stock

½

red pepper, diced

1

t salt

1 jalapeno

¼

t pepper

1

bunch cilantro

2

t fresh thyme, rough chopped

juice of 1 fresh lime

½

t honey, or to taste

2 c buttered cabbage (recipe follows)

cent black

sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper

Pre-heat oven to 300ºF. Mix together the eggs, cream, stock, salt and pepper. Pour over the diced bread.

Mix well and set aside for 10 minutes.

Add the cabbage to the bread mixture and mix until combined.

Place in well-greased muffin tins.

Cover loosely with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove foil and continue to bake for another 15 minutes or until light golden brown. Let sit for 15 minutes and then serve. These may be made ahead and frozen until needed.

Once corn has cooled slightly, cut off the cob and mix with diced vegetables.

Toss with lime juice, honey and salt and pepper.

Pumpkin Crème Caramel

• Alberta Ate Chef Collaborative dinner featuring top Alberta chefs • Hands-on workshops, tours, demos and tastings

Web diginstalbert.ca

twitter @diginfest

Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse

1

t honey

Place in hot oven for 15 minutes or until hot.

½

t water

1

can condensed milk

Buttered Cabbage

1

can evaporated milk

1

T butter

6 eggs

½

medium onion, diced

1

c pumpkin puree (recipe follows)

1

med (about 2 lb) cabbage, sliced

sweetened coconut

1

t salt

1

t black pepper

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Have 6 ramekins ready.

¼

c chicken stock

Serves 8.

Highlights:

Presented by:

c sugar

To reheat, quickly heat in a pan with some stock and cold butter just until hot.

October 1 - 3, 2015

“The cabotia pumpkin is smaller and sweeter, perfect for dessert.” – Archiemedes Cailao,

1½

Heat butter, then add onions and cook till soft. Add the cabbage and toss well with onions and butter. Cover and cook 5 minutes. Remove lid, add the remaining ingredients and cook just until cabbage is bright green. Remove and chill.

Explore bacon making, worm composting, craft beer and more.

Heat the sugar, honey and water on moderate-high heat in a frying pan. As soon as the sugar comes to a boil, swirl the pan. Cook until the liquid sugar is dark amber in colour. Pour into the ramekins and swirl to coat sides evenly.

Sprinkle some sweetened coconut into the hot caramel. Refrigerate.

Blend condensed milk, evaporated milk, milk, eggs, pumpkin puree. Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins and cover with aluminum foil. Bake in the bain-marie (or a roasting pan half-filled with water) covered and sealed with Please see “Harvest Bounty” on page 30.

The Tomato | September October 2015 11

Meet the Gold

Medal Plates Chefs 2015

Steve Buzak Steve Buzak (Royal Glenora Club) says, “The competition is looking tough— we’ll have to bring our A game. We want to be out of the box, to be innovative, to go in a direction not many have gone before. We’re going for the gold.”

Bryan Cruz First time competitor Bryan Cruz (The Marc Restaurant) is “testing a few things here and there, nothing solid quite yet,” he says. But they will be working with Arctic Char and Ungava gin.

12 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Nathin Bye Nathin Bye (Ampersand 27) is not only a gold medalist, he is a staunch supporter of Gold Medal Plates, having donated dinners every year. “I love the event and am excited to be participating.

It’s great for team building. My approach is perhaps not as avant-garde this time— it’s more familiar things served in a different way. I’m thinking vegetarian so far, maybe red bean, coconut, mushroom, cheese, paired with an unusual wine, Stoneboat Pintotage.”

Corey McGuire What is he making? “Definitely pork, a sexy pork dish,” says Corey McGuire (Tzin Wine and Tapas). “It’ll be a challenge to see what we can do out of this tiny kitchen; we’ll have to get creative with organization. The event is a lot of fun and a good cause and a good showcase too. It’s great to get feedback from so many people at once and it gives us a night off from service.”

Andrew Cowan “It’s an exciting opportunity to be able to compete to show what I can do,” says Andrew Cowan (Pack Rat Louie). “I haven’t quite finalized the dish, thinking a play on fried chicken or maybe charcuterie. Whatever I do I want it to be spectacular because I want to win.”

Lindsay Porter Chef Porter (El Cortez) nabbed the bronze on her first trip to Gold Medal Plates last year. This year? “I’m taking a different route, working with a whisky, Callingwood Rye, and the dish will be Latin-inspired. Haven’t quite decided on the protein yet— maybe black cod?

It’s pretty stiff competition— I’ll try my hardest and I’m more than happy to take part.”

If you can dream it, we can build it.

Cory Rakowski Cory Rakowski (12 Acres) has worked behind the scenes eight times regionally and once nationally. This is his first year heading a team. “ I learned as much as I could while competing with others.

It’ll be great to engineer the dish from the beginning. We want to showcase our animals from the farm so are thinking a beef dish with a lot of textural differences and Saskatoon berries. It’s Alberta on the plate.”

Joe Srahulek “We’re thinking scallops and chicken liver and Bartier Brothers Syrah,” says Joe Srahulek (La Ronde, Chateau Lacombe).

Paul Shufelt This is veteran competitor Paul Shufelt’s (Workplace Eatery) first time competing as an owner/operator. “My big question for the past few weeks was ‘will my restaurant be open in time?’ This field is fierce with past winners and some new young talent. My dish is coming together in my mind with probably some beets and Chinook salmon involved.”

Jan Trittenbach Jan Trittenbach (Solstice Seasonal Cuisine) the gold medal winner in 201l, returns to competition this year. “I’m excited to be back. We are working with Sandhill Winery and I’m flip-flopping between hot and cold. I have never done a cold dish. This competition does something for sport and for cooking — it’s my favourite competition. We are a small restaurant and this is a good way to showcase it.”

Top quality at affordable prices • 780-221-8453 • phil@greenviewcabinets.ca

“This is a great opportunity to raise money for the athletes. It’s great for morale. Our team is excited and a bit anxious—it is a daunting effort, but they’re pretty jazzed; it gives everybody a chance to be part of something big.”

The Tomato | September October 2015 13

“My mom had six brothers and I had 30 cousins. We would eat homemade pasta and meatballs at my nonna’s house every Sunday. Our family was so large that there were two shifts for all the relatives. Our family was there for the 12 o’clock lunch shift. After we ate lunch the supper shift would show up around 1:30pm and major bocce would begin on the gravel alley behind the house.

Out came the homemade wine and the games began. They played for the afternoon and dinner was served once again at 5pm sharp. The lunch crew went home and the supper crew would eat.

Imagine cooking two large meals every Sunday for one family. The ladies would cook, the uncles would play bocce and the cousins would get in trouble. Now, that’s Italian.”

Mike Bianco, Canbian Inc. “There is always a pasta course and always someone bringing something because they need to outdo whoever is making dinner that night. We’re a very competitive people, especially about food.

Over the holidays there is at least five turkeys.

Nobody goes anywhere empty-handed.

“I’m very proud of what we do here at Cibo, but nobody cooks like my mom. I crave her pasta.”

Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro “In our house during family celebrations we always had a big lasagna in addition to any traditional foods for that meal.

So, at Thanksgiving we would have roast turkey

How to eat like an

Italian!

• Vivian Zenari •

Italians are famous for their love of food and my family is no exception.

I suppose, my mother threw in some croissants from Costco.

I have always suspected that Italian families eat differently than other people do. To see if I was correct, I recently asked four family members to serve me a different meal—breakfast, lunch, coffee break and supper.

My father made another typical Italian breakfast, a bowl of espresso with hot milk and chunks of bread thrown in.

Although I now find the combination disgusting, the childhood me LOVED this. Maria said that yogurt and ricotta are also common for breakfast; whereupon my mother brought out a plate of Activia single serves. Further discord arose when Maria noted that there was no cheese on the table. My mother came out with some mozzarella.

Maria said, “That’s not the right mozzarella. It’s supposed to be fresh cheese, formaggino Bebè, soft semiripened cheese triangles.” Fine. Neither was there any pane biscollato, dry, slightly sweet, similar to Melba toast.

Note that I did this on four different days; eating like this on one day would, as you will see, have sent me to the cardiac unit.

When I walked into my childhood home at nine o'clock for breakfast, waiting expectantly with my parents were two guests: my maternal aunt Maria and my paternal aunt Francesca.

I was the only native-born Canadian in the room. Immediately an argument broke out over what Italians eat for breakfast. When the dust cleared, I gathered that Italians don’t really eat breakfast. They will have espresso and maybe a brioche, possibly purchased at a bar on the way to work or school.

Francesca declared that when someone woke up in the morning feeling out of sorts, zabaglione (raw egg whipped with marsala) was considered a reasonable breakfast. What a country!

Despite the cultural inaccuracy of it all, my mother served a whiz-bang breakfast—home-made brioche and cranberry lemon muffins baked that morning; watermelon slices, whole bananas, red grapes, strawberries, red plums, fresh figs and homemade rhubarb-strawberry and plum jam.

Just in case there wasn’t enough food,

14 September October 2015 | The Tomato

As we drank espresso from the caffettiera (stove-top machine) my father offered a cautionary tale of the Italian man who moved to the US and acquired the taste for bacon and eggs for breakfast. The man returned to Italy but continued his bacon and eggs habit, so that he would even eat this for lunch. A habit, which, my father said, sent the man to an early grave. My mother subsequently brought out a white rhubarb sauce, useful for topping things or eating straight like applesauce. Believe me when I say that I did not need to eat for the rest of the day.

In any event, I arranged for lunch at Maria’s house. At first, she seemed to be more of a purist than my parents. Lunch had to be at one o’clock because that’s

what Italians do. Present were Maria, her daughters-in-law, her grandson and one daughter-in-law’s mother, who is Ukrainian but says gnocchi is better than pyrohy. Pasta is always served at Italian lunch, so we had rigatoni with tomato sauce and small meatballs. Maria also served the sausage that she cooked in the meat sauce. The sausage was made by my mother who has just started to make sausage, ‘because everyone is doing it now.’

Next was the main course, fresh buffalo mozzarella from the Italian Centre Shop (or Spinelli’s, as Edmonton Italians call it), served with tomato along with a plate of cucumber rounds and a green salad with tomatoes and vinaigrette.

Even though she said that Italians don’t usually eat meat at lunch (and I hope you are seeing a pattern here), Maria served Rome-style veal saltimbocca and Calabrese meatballs. A saltimbocca is a thinly-sliced and pounded veal cutlet with prosciutto and sage, breaded, then quickly pan-fried. It was to die for. Also to die for were the Calabrese meatballs: deep-fried ovals of meat, bread and cheese. To drink we had the option of red wine, white wine, water and brewed ice tea. On the side (!) focaccia and oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping.

This was followed by what my aunt said was the normal dessert in Italy: fruit (in this case cherries and sliced cantaloupe), bread (a big round pagnotta from the Italian Bakery), and Asiago and Cambazola cheese. We then had espresso from a Nespresso, which is replacing the caffettiera in some of my Italian relatives’

kitchens. Since the day was so smoking hot, Maria made iced coffee with milk and a little sugar. Even though my aunt assured me that Italians don’t serve sweet desserts at lunch, she served some anyway. She said that since she didn’t make it herself, it didn’t really count as part of the Italian lunch. It was tiramisù, by the way.

In Italy, lunch is followed by a siesta, which I rather wanted to take. Since we finished lunch at 3:30 pm, however, I technically would have had to roll myself to work right away.

Before going to work, however, an Italian may visit someone’s house for coffee. Since Italians eat supper at eight o’clock, people don’t visit in the evenings. My aunt Nella, who was my coffee-time visit, said, ‘all people in Italy do is have coffee. That’s it.’

Sure. At her place, just coffee ended up being served to me, two daughtersin-law, one daughter-in-law’s mother, three grandchildren, one grand-dog, and of course her husband, Giovanni. We had espresso in tender blue and white demitasses. People tend to own more than one coffee machine (two-person, three-person, four-person, six-person) because the number of surprise guests is unpredictable. Nella whipped out a sponge cake layered with vanilla and chocolate pudding and garnished with pansies. Some debate arose as to what to call this delicious thing: zuppa inglese or torta genovesa or pan di spagna.

Nella also brought out mini eclairs and homemade Eatmore bars. Okay, my aunt conceded, sometimes Italians serve biscuits at coffee time.

Finally, I went for supper at my brother Dario’s house. He and his family had just returned from a trip to Italy and they were enthusiastic about Italian eating. My sister-in-law Maureen works for a wine agency and before supper she served a typical Italian wine, Fiano — pale, dry, crisp, with a piquant sourness she likened to sucking a peach pit. I may have had two or three glasses of this.

The first course was gnocchi that Dario had made. Gnocchi day was always a big day when we all lived at home.

Dario served his with a Gorgonzola cream sauce. These were not the striated gnocchi that my mother makes. They were smooth and chubby like a tiny

baby’s buttocks. As no one needed to say, though of course being Italian we made a point of saying it often, rolling gnocchi pieces off a fork to get those striations is time-consuming and hard on the fingers, and we need our fingers to hold our fork as we pick off the gnocchi from our plates. The bread on the table, standard on Italian supper tables, sat neglected for a while.

On to the next course: tiny roasted potatoes, a marinated vegetable salad and duck. (Maureen’s favourite dish on her trip was the duck at La Mandragola in San Gimignano.) Maureen made duck breast medallions, medium rare, served with a sauce made with strawberry, raspberry and red plums.

“Only one wine accompaniment was possible, and that is Sassicaia,” Maureen said.

The 2009 was a bit young, Maureen admitted, she had decanted it and let it breathe for the entire day. “Smooth, elegant, nice fruit, dark red berries,” she said. Or, as I said, “oh, yum.” I found myself chanting Sassicaia under my breath. In no time I had made up a little tune to go with the word Sassicaia.

Then came espresso, served short, as Italians in Italy do it, followed by dessert.

When I say that many members of my family love cooking I am including the young people. My 16-year-old niece Chloe and 14-year-old nephew Aidan made the chocolate biscotti with panna cotta and strawberry coulis. The biscotti were firm and dry as they should be, not cakey or dipped in chocolate as North Americans seem to prefer. I asked my nephew if the panna cotta was hard to make; he shrugged and said, ‘not really.’

I glowered and hummed my Sassicaia song to soothe myself.

We pretended the poplars outside the dining room window were Tuscan cypresses. With satisfaction and pride, we mused on the fact that Tic Tacs and Nutella were invented by the same guy in Italy.

What a people. What a country.

Vivian Zenari is an Italian-Edmontonian who owns one caffettiera and one Nespresso machine.

and lasagna; at Easter a ham and a big lasagna and so on. The other thing, when we were kids we were never allowed to have milk with dinner. It was not a dinner food according to my parents.”

Maria Iacobelli, co-executive producer, Relish Food on Film Festival “We always have a lasagna at every family gathering.

Or at a picnic — my 88-year-old aunt Rosaria makes it. She makes the noodles, fresh, the whole thing. There’s always so much food. As soon as we finish eating we start thinking about what we’re having for dinner.”

Teresa Spinelli, Italian Centre Shop “I would wake up to old Neopolitan music playing and the smell of the sauce on the stove; any Italian kid can relate. I would get a piece of bread and dip it in the sauce, then take it and go watch TV. My mother would say don’t eat any more sauce, there won’t be enough, as if there was never not enough sauce; there was enough sauce for a week. I remember the chaos of getting ready, but by the time everybody came, the antipasti was on the table, then we would have pasta, then the meat. Then a break, some fresh fruit, some nuts, maybe some cheese.

Then the digestivi would come out; the men would drink grappa and amaro.

After that, coffee and dessert. There was always a lot of discussion and disagreements — it was dramatic and exciting.”

Daniel Costa, corso 32

The Tomato | September October 2015 15

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2014 Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2Bench White, Okanagan Valley VQA, Canada, $27.

The name refers to the two vineyards where the grapes are grown, the sandy Black Sage Bench on the east side and Tinhorn Creek vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench on the west side. The blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, with a bit of Viognier and Muscat is beautifully aromatic and flavourful with smoky notes from barrel fermentation, stone fruit, tropical fruit, tangerine and lime. In all, a gorgeous dry white with enough substance to partner with Thanksgiving turkey.

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Try them out to see what goes with what and why, though keep in mind that the disc on Le Blanc’s label denotes a Brie- or Camenbertstyle mild and creamy cheese, not cake.

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The Tomato | September October 2015 17

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“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” wrote Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin in The Physiology of Taste (1825).

Or, in beer terms: you are what you drink.

Brillat-Savarin came to mind recently when the whole family, adult kids and all, sat down to watch High Fidelity on Netflix. John Cusack plays Rob, a record shop owner examining his failed romantic life, and Jack Black plays Barry, an epically obnoxious record store snob. For me the film is about taste; as Rob says, “What really matters is what you like, not what you are like.” At one point, Barry sends a customer packing when he has the temerity to ask for a copy of I Just Called To Say I Love You. When Rob asks Barry, ‘What did he ever do to you,’ Barry responds, ‘he offended me with his terrible taste.’

As the credits rolled on High Fidelity, my kids agreed: Dad is Barry, the sneering record store snob. This stung, for years ago I consciously decided not to judge people for their taste in music or books or beer. Or at least, appear not to judge people. It’s not always easy and you don’t always fool people—clearly my kids are onto me. When people you love and respect enjoy things you do not, perhaps it is time to examine your aesthetic choices, or your life may prove to be a lonely one, my friend. So when my editor suggested I have a look at cider for this column, did I take my own advice? Eventually.

As tough as it is for me to imagine preferring a cider (aren’t they essentially alcopops?) over a beer, is it right for me to judge those rediscovering a traditional beverage?

18 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Ask my wife—a long-time cider drinker (and sufferer of my snobbery).

Cider is the “it” beverage. Sherbrooke Liquor’s Stephen Bezan tells me cider is the hottest category at the store these days, with 30 new ciders added over the last six months to the dozens in Sherbrooke’s beer cave. Stephen suggests the cider surge is the result of the surge in gluten-free awareness and the artisan food movement, with people looking for unique hand-crafted and farm-fresh products. Stephen has seen a crossover from craft beer too, with beer geeks looking for a new taste and cider-makers using hops or beer yeasts.

Even wine-lovers appreciate the terroir aspect of cider, with craft ciders tied to specific apple varieties grown in particular orchards in variable seasons.

My wife is chuffed to be ahead of the curve on this one. Why not outsource this cider column to the in-house expert? You guessed it: the beer snob in me. Having tried whatever ciders are on offer in pubs, restaurants and liquor stores from Montreal to Maui, my wife’s taste tends to fall on the sweeter, thus often more popular, side. And, reflexively, beer geeks (and music snobs) are suspicious of anything popular, like the record store clerk who sees his indie band become U2.

“Aren’t they too sweet?” I say of her choices, falling right into a rhetorical trap. Sweet, yes; too sweet—that, my wife reminds me, is a matter of taste.

Why, she laments, is dry always valued over sweet? Quickly backpedalling, not wanting to end up like Barry in High Fidelity, listening alone to “sad old bastard music,” I agreed we should try some ciders together, with an open mind and an objective palate.

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Cider is fermented apple juice, pure and simple. Commercial ciders like Magners or Strongbow are made of 10 to 30 per cent apple juice and often filled out with sugar and water while craft ciders are 80 to 100 per cent juice. We sampled a variety of ciders and chose to feature the six below—one French and five Canadian.

CM

MY

CY

CMY

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Domaine de la Minotiere Cidre Fermier Bio Brut, Normandy, France

@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228

www.theglassmonkey.ca

5842-111 Street

A classic organic unfiltered Normandy cider from Calvados in the Loire Valley.

This cider reveals its rural French terroir with its dirty gold colour, earthy aroma and dry, mellow, slightly beefy taste. Indeed, one taster remarked at first sip, “it tastes like bacon.”

Bulwark Traditional Craft Cider, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia A new world cider made from old world apples. People have been growing apples in the Annapolis Valley since the 1600s and they know what they’re doing. Bulwark’s flagship cider is a delight, right on the line between dry and sweet. The aroma is of a fresh white wine. You taste the apple but it isn't overpoweringly juicy. Outstanding.

Brickworks Ciderhouse Batch: 1904, Toronto, Ontario

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Country born, city crafted says Brickworks, which sources apples from Niagara and Georgian Bay and makes the cider in Toronto. Batch: 1904 cider uses a mix of Ida Red and MacIntosh to make an off-dry cider. We found the cider very light and almost too apple juicy in taste. Serving it over ice with a squeeze of lime balanced it out.

Rock Creek, Calgary, Alberta Calgary is no one’s idea of an apple-growing district but the Okanagan certainly is. In 1993, apple grower Chris Turton drove from Kelowna to Calgary to show Big Rock founder Ed McNally his English cider apples.

Just as he did with Alberta barley, McNally saw the possibilities and in 1994 Big Rock launched their Rock Creek cider. A solid, tart, dry cider.

Left Field, Little Dry Mamette Lake, BC Two sisters turned their family’s cattle ranch in the middle of nowhere (OK, the BC interior, 30 minutes north of Merritt) into a chic craft cidery. The Little Dry cider, made from traditional English cider and British Columbia table apples, is a champagne of a cider, bubbly and pale gold, almost translucent, with a delicate light taste and just a touch of sweetness.

Sea Cider Kings & Spies, Saanich, BC Down the road from the Brentwood Bay ferry dock on Vancouver Island is the Sea Cider Ciderhouse. In 2004 Kristen Jordan planted a thousand apple trees and soon began making superb ciders. Made from Northern Spie and King apples, this cider is elegant, dry and crisp. Delightful.

Peter Bailey vows to bite his tongue even if he sees you drinking Shock Top or Lucky Lager. He tweets as @Libarbarian.

The Tomato | September October 2015 19

What Do You Eat? Pilar Martinez, Edmonton Public Library CEO What Do You Eat asks Edmotonians who are in the news for reasons other than food or culinary achievement what they eat. Because we know everybody wants to know—it’s the food equivalent of peeking in the medicine cabinet.

Pilar Martinez, the Edmonton Public Library’s new CEO, has a busy life overseeing EPL’s 19 branches, 700 staff members and $62-million budget and playing soccer, practising bikram yoga, running and hanging out with her husband and two teenage boys.

20 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Shawna Dirksen with photos by Curtis Comeau Photography

Sign up for Q: How do you eat?

I’m a grazer. A healthy grazer. Except for the occasional, you know, chocolate … you still gotta indulge! But I definitely do eat throughout the day; not just the three meals, for sure.

Q. Where do you shop?

Mostly at the Valleyview IGA because it’s close to where I live and the service is fantastic. I also shop at Planet Organic, Safeway, SaveOn, but certainly our mainstay is the Valleyview IGA.

Q: D o you know what your next meal will be?

No, I don’t think I know. I will decide when I get home and talk with my 15-year-old and my husband. Often my husband starts dinner or we’ll work something out together. We may even decide to go out.

Q. How often do you eat out or get take out?

I would say, probably three or four times a week.

Q: What do you always have in your fridge or pantry?

Fruit is a staple in our house. Bananas, that’s something that’s quick, on the way to yoga. The kids can grab one before school. Lemons. I like having carbonated water with lemon. Milk. We are frequenters of Bon Ton Bakery, so I’ll have their bread. Cheese is a big one in our house—cheese and crackers. And, you know, the usual, like eggs. Actually last night we had green onion cakes as a little appetizer and we always have that great hot chili sauce in our house.

Almonds. I eat lots of raw almonds.

Q: What is your signature dish?

It’s a chicken satay that my kids love.

Also, a Mexican chicken lasagna. It’s really good. Instead of tomato sauce you use salsa, it has Monterey jack cheese, and chilies. It has a real punch to it.

You’ve got to like some spice if you want to eat that one.

Q: What does food mean to you?

Sometimes its fuel, like when I think about grabbing that banana before a run. I think it’s a real opportunity, though, to build relationships, to slow down, relax, and catch up. As a family we are really into Sunday dinners and make a point to sit down together a couple times a week. When out with friends, it’s a way to connect. It’s a tradition that’s really important to me.

When we take the time to prepare, have friends over, start with some cheese and crackers, then the meal, it’s such a lovely way to connect.

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Q. What’s your favourite restaurant?

I like Rge Rd. I really like Bibo for wine and appies. We often go for lunch on Saturday or Sunday to the Tin Palace.

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Q. Do you take lunch to work, buy lunch or go out for lunch?

I try to take my lunch to work, but I’m not very successful. I will go out and grab something to eat or will go out to meet people for lunch as well. There’s a great little café called Sequel on 100 Avenue. They serve homemade soups and salads, so especially when it’s colder, I’ll go grab a soup.

Q. What do you eat in September and October?

We have a humongous crop of tomatoes.

I love tomatoes so I’ll be eating a lot of them in September. Zucchini and spaghetti squash will be in there, too.

Q. What is your comfort food, the food from your childhood you eat when you aren’t feeling well?

If I have an upset stomach, plain old chicken noodle Cup-a-Soup. And peanut butter toast feels like home.

Q. What’s your guilty pleasure— the food you love but know you shouldn’t eat?

I love chocolate! Green and Black’s organic sea salt chocolate. And red licorice.

Shawna Dirksen is an Edmonton-based freelance writer who spends the fall brainstorming exciting ways to grill, bake, steam and season copious amounts of zucchini, string beans, potatoes and carrots from her husband's over-abundant garden while simultaneously avoiding anything that's been pumpkin-spiced.

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The Tomato | September October 2015 21

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Feeding People Fruit spared, abundance shared Fruit trees and shrubs bloom in yards all over Edmonton in the spring. Their beautiful blossoms are signs of hope, signs that fresh local fruit, everything from apples and apricots to pears and cherries, will be ready to eat in just a few months’ time.

Sadly, though, too much of that juicy, delicious homegrown fruit never gets into people’s mouths. It falls to the ground and rots, or it gets thoughtlessly tossed away if homeowners can’t or don’t harvest it. Thankfully, Fruits of Sherbrooke and Operation Fruit Rescue Edmonton have recognized that this unharvested bounty can help feed the growing number of hungry people in our city—they have come to the fruit’s rescue to save and share the otherwise wasted abundance.

Fruits of Sherbrooke Carol Cooper, Christina Piecha and Alan Cosh were tired of seeing apples from neighbours’ trees in the trash.

“We should do something about all the waste. People are hungry in our city,” said Christina one evening in 2010 as their local gardening group walked down an alley. The three partners started Fruits of Sherbrooke, a not-for-profit society, to connect volunteer pickers with homeowners who needed assistance to harvest their fruit.

Carol sums up their mission: “No fruit wasted. No fruit forgotten.” They donate rescued fruit to local families and partner organizations such as the Hope Mission, the Mosaic Centre and the culinary arts program at Jasper Place High School.

They also create flavourful products to

support their work and to show people that they can make good things with neglected fruit. All their products are made with at least 60 per cent rescued fruit.

Christina calls Carol the chef and creative genius behind their unique products such as the best-selling chipotle rhubarb ketchup and ginger pear, tarragon crab apple and chocolate cherry jellies. Carol supervises about five people who work several days a week in their rented kitchen at Westmount Community League. The group offers jam-making classes to teach others how to use their own fruit or the rescued fruit.

Fruits of Sherbrooke also gratefully accepts donations from British Columbia fruit vendors and The Organic Box. Owners Danny and Miranda Turner are happy to contribute.

“Fruit rescue operations are important because they see the connection between food shortages and food waste, and they do something about it,” says Miranda. “They turn a sad situation—seeing beautiful fruit turn to mush—into a positive experience.”

Each year Fruits of Sherbrooke rescues more fruit. In 2014, they shared about 15,000 kilos of mostly apples, rhubarb, saskatoons, raspberries, sour cherries and pears; sometimes they also rescue things that people may be surprised to find here: apricots and hairless kiwis.

Last year Fruits of Sherbrooke delivered several kilograms of rescued apples to the Mosaic Centre, a charity that helps people dealing with poverty, hunger and homelessness. “We are grateful for the work that they do,” says Linda Deveau, director. “Many individuals go without

fresh fruit due to life circumstances and the high cost of produce.”

Unfortunately, volunteers, money and transportation remain challenges as well as what to do with the apples. Most community groups need eating apples, but the majority of the rescued apples are cooking apples. Since many organizations don’t have kitchen facilities, they can’t take advantage of the available cooking apples, which causes frustration for Fruits of Sherbrooke. This year’s goal is to develop a system for turning the apples into apple chips or applesauce to help inner city soup kitchens and school lunch programs. Carol says, “We are looking for someone to sponsor and run it. This is good food that will feed people. We need someone to provide the facility and knowledge and the funding.” They hope to develop a partnership with a school or other organization. See page 32.

Carol, Christina and Alan have never made a penny from the significant time and energy they dedicate to fruit rescue.

The money from product sales covers only mileage and expense reimbursement, and they don’t receive funding. What they lack in funding, though, they make up for in passion and purpose. Christina says that the rewards they receive in return are “the sense of community and help we give. We hope we have created awareness around an important local food issue.”

Despite the commitments and challenges, Fruits of Sherbrooke will continue to rescue Edmonton fruit. Christina says, “There’s a lot of people not getting fresh food. There’s no need for that. Especially somewhere like here, where there’s so much.”

Operation Fruit Rescue Edmonton One afternoon in 2009, during a group discussion over potluck about the desire to do something local and use traditional skills, Jessica Roder suggested forming a fruit rescue organization. Amy Beaith and others offered to help build it. They modelled OFRE after Toronto’s Not Far From the Tree and Victoria’s Fruit Tree Project. In 2013, OFRE incorporated as a non-profit society with a mission to

Tracey L. Anderson

“mobilize volunteers to harvest, process, and preserve local fruit [to] get the fruit in the hands, mouths, and minds of people… by fostering community involvement and knowledge sharing.”

Mike Johnson, Amy’s husband and OFRE president since 2014, says fruit rescue means “minimizing food waste and providing a service to homeowners to pick their trees and redistribute the fruit throughout the city.” OFRE keeps 25 per cent of what they rescue for cider pressing and workshops. They give 25 per cent each to the homeowner, the pickers and charitable organizations such as Ronald McDonald House Charities Northern Alberta, Sorrentino’s Compassion House and The Mustard Seed Edmonton.

This year OFRE aims to double the paid membership base to about 200 so that they can double or triple the amount they pick and in turn feed more people. They hope someday to support their work by collecting enough to create a rescued-fruit cider with a local brewery.

The volume of fruit OFRE distributes to those in need grows annually. In 2014, they gathered over 2000 kilograms and anticipate collecting around 6000 this year if they meet their membership goal. But just as valuable is that “we’ve built a community. We’ve engaged Edmontonians in fruit rescue,” Mike says.

Last year Operation Fruit Rescue Edmonton planted a micro-orchard of 50 trees at McCauley School. Non-fruitbearing trees return nitrogen to the soil to feed the apple, pear and plum trees.

The orchard, where grapes and kiwis were planted this spring, produces some of the fruit for cider pressing, pruning and preserving workshops and for donation.

OFRE is excited about the orchard’s potential as “something that can live and grow and change over the years."

Community-Based Fruit Rescue Small community-based groups have also started finding ways to share fruit abundance with neighbours in their own communities. The Westend Food Hub Alliance, for example, started in late 2013 as a partnership of Jasper Place Wellness

bonjour Delicious bread and tasty cheese for your spring picnic!

Centre, Trinity United Church, Jasper Place High School and WECAN Food Basket Society of Alberta.

But it’s not necessary to start an official group in order to ensure local fresh fruit doesn’t go to waste; homeowners who grow fruit they don’t harvest can donate it to a fruit rescue organization or to a charity on their own.

Fruit rescue is flourishing because urban food needs are growing, and people increasingly feel a responsibility to use available food productively rather than waste it. As more people understand that they can contribute fruit from their own yards to help meet the needs of others, fruit rescue in Edmonton will continue to expand. That means more of the fruit grown here will get from treetop to tabletop.

8608 - 99 Street 780.433.5924 www.bonjourbakery.com

Tracey L. Anderson is an Edmonton freelance writer who loves fresh summer fruit—rescued or otherwise—preferably with a generous portion of whipped cream.

INTERESTED IN A MEMBERSHIP, VOLUNTEERING OR DONATING YOUR OWN FRUIT?

boulangerie

you know you want more...

Contact

Fruits of Sherbrooke fruitsofsherbrook.ca 780-244-0129 Operation Fruit Rescue operationfruitrescue.org 780-433-2235 Fruits of Sherbrooke products are available at local farmers’ markets and retail locations.

For details visit fruitsofsherbrooke.ca

The Tomato | September October 2015 23

EAT East ofTHIS Edmonton SEASON! Sep. 13

Taste of Heritage at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

Sep. 30

Eat East of Edmonton: a showcase of local food

Oct. 3

Smoky Lake Pumpkin Festival

Oct. 10

Andrew Garlic Festival

Oct. 25

Battle River Rail Octoberfest

Oct. 30

Camrose Octoberfest

Eat East of Edmonton: a showcase of local food

Wed., Sep. 30, Viking Community Hall, 2pm-7pm Meet producers and visit booths and displays 2-5pm Local fresh food dinner and guest speakers 5-7pm ($25/plate).

www.goeastrto.com www.eateastofedmonton.com Eat East of Edmonton 2015 is helping to grow emerging and existing culinary events, enhancing and promoting producers and connecting events and tours in our region.

The Lunch Lady Of course I can!

I am completely obsessed with canning. My fridge is full of homemade preserves as well as relishes, chutneys and jams and jellies from the farmers’ market.

I am fortunate to have food coming my way from all directions. My in-laws share a community garden and it is not uncommon for me to get home from work to find that grandpa Bob came by and left us rhubarb, beets, potatoes and carrots on the back porch. I’ve also come home to find boxes of apples, pumpkins and tomatoes on the steps from people who know their beloved fruits and vegetables will be put to good use. Canning is the perfect solution to food waste.

My brother Tim, who took an organic Master Gardening course a few years back, grows plenty of vegetables to keep our family kitchens busy, including the most wonderful tomatillos which became roasted tomatillo salsa verde and tomatillo relish.

I pulled out my canning equipment in August and started the season off with a lemony triple berry jam. Whenever we didn’t get around to finishing a basket of berries, into the freezer it went and eventually I had enough berries to make a decent amount of jam.

When the carrots pop up I make carrot cake jam with raisins, pears and warm spices. Eat this on top of a graham cracker spread with cream cheese and you have a quick cheesecake-like treat.

Who doesn’t like pickled carrots? Easy

24 September October 2015 | The Tomato

as can be. Homemade apple chutney on a warm crispy samosa or a combination of tomatoes and nectarines make a wonderful condiment for chicken or pork.

I think there actually might be a National Sneak Some Zucchini On To Your Neighbours Porch Day. Well, you don’t have to sneak it on to my porch.

I’ll happily take it off your hands to make cakes, cookies or a quick shred in my robocoupe to freeze and use later. Or zucchini pickles and relish with dill or even curry.

I haven’t been canning long and I can’t say I really have any childhood memories of being in the kitchen with my mother or my baba and watching them in action.

I think the first time I attempted to can was when I owned a restaurant. I was given loads of green tomatoes and we made a green tomato relish. We served it with everything.

When I first started canning, I would make as many jars as possible. I loved knowing my pantry was stocked full and it was there for the taking. The problem was that I never took. I hoarded. It’s not like back in the days when one survived the harsh winters by eating canned fruits, beans and jams. It’s not likely that if I use up my last jar of jam in February I’ll go without until the next canning season. Now I make smaller batches to share or trade and to give as hostess gifts.

When it comes to canning, I have no fear. When the mood hits me, I’m all in.

It doesn’t matter if I can’t find my special jar retriever or the magnetic wand

Cindy Lazarenko

Authentic Ethiopian Dining

ABYSSINIA There are so many good reasons to can food—for health, for taste and for the sense of community. Whether you’re pitting cherries, halving peaches or skinning and seeding tomatoes there is much to be said about coming together to share recipes and stories. Plant something or purchase a case of your favourite vegetable or fruit. Stock up on canning supplies and get to it.

RESTAURANT Vegan Buffet Wed. & Fri. 5 pm - 9 pm Meat & Vegan Buffet Sat. 5 pm - 9 pm Regular menu always available

10810 95 Street • 780.756.8902 www.abyssiniaedmonton.com Open 7 days a week 11 am - 10 pm

Dot’s Pickled Beets 12 c beets, washed, peeled and cubed

used for collecting the lids. Tongs work just fine for me. Even if boiling water dribbles down my arm I don’t care. My measurements are almost always off, I am often without the proper ingredients, but I just go for it. The worst thing that has happened so far is lids that don’t pop. In that case I just leave them in the fridge to eat right away.

Our family has land close to Smoky Lake and this year we had an abundance of saskatoon berries. It was impossible to pick them all and even harder to find the time to bake pies. I canned Saskatoon pie filling and can now make a pie any old time I feel like it.

When we’re at the cabin we often visit Linda’s Market Garden. You can always count on finding fresh dill for pickling and all kinds of vegetables. We love her potatoes. If you are lucky enough to be there during strawberry season, order a strawberry milkshake. Please.

Andrew hosts an annual Garlic Festival in October. Last year we brought back bags full of garlic bulbs that taste nothing like the garlic you buy at the grocery store. Flavourful and juicy, we peeled, then pickled the cloves using Auntie Val’s recipe. Those zingy little morsels appeared on many a charcuterie board afterward.

3

c vinegar

3

c water

2

c white sugar

3

T pickling spice

1

T pickling salt

Bring a large pot of water to boil and cook beets until tender, approximately 10 minutes depending on size. Drain.

Sterilize 12, 250 ml jars by placing in boiling water for 5-10 minutes. Remove jars and fill each with beets.

Prepare the brine: Mix vinegar, water, sugar and spices together in a large stainless steel pot. Bring to a boil for one minute. Strain the seeds (you can leave in, but my mom always strains them) and pour brine into jars leaving ¼” space from the top of jar. Seal lids.

Prepare the water bath: Fill half a large stockpot with water and bring to a boil.

Carefully place jars into water leaving a bit of room between each jar. You may have to do this in two batches depending on the size of your pot. Be sure water is a few inches higher than the tops of the jars. Bring to a boil and continue to boil for approximately 10 minutes. Remove and let cool.

A Sensory Experience!..

The ShopS aT Boudreau | ST. alBerT, alBerTa #109 150 BelleroSe dr. | hickSfinewineS.com | 780-569-5000

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wine specials on Enomatic

Perfect for your after work

Rendez Vous Monday to Friday

cheese • wine+beer • espresso

10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 info@thecavern.ca | thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG

Makes 12 jars.

Cindy Lazarenko is the chef/owner of OnOurTable, a volunteer at Highlands Junior High, and helps her brother at Culina Catering.

The Tomato | September October 2015 25

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Kathryn Joel, Get Cooking Edmonton In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.

Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist.

After raising two children and a career in banking Kathryn Joel decided to follow her first love—cooking.

She enrolled in Leiths School in London, did a work experience gig at Billingsgate Fish and started a food manufacturing business. Then her personal life brought her to Edmonton. She was determined to stay in food. After starting

with cooking classes in her home, she built the Get Cooking studio in a space on the main floor of the MacEwan student residences.

Her aim is to send people home feeling empowered to cook. Joel loves to teach, and some of the classes are also taught by chefs just back from a stage or traveling and between jobs.

Then there is Food Fight, a culinary adventure with her friend Mike Hudema, a lively experience for guests and chef competitors alike. There’s always something interesting going on at Get Cooking.

What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking?

Writing novels.

What do you most appreciate in your friends?

Kindness.

Your favourite qualities in a dish?

Assertive flavours.

A cook?

High energy.

A wine?

Subtlety.

Hometown?

Melbourne, Australia.

Years cooking?

Since 2006.

Where would you like to live?

Bangkok.

Your favourite food and drink?

A perfect piece of Brie de Meaux, and a glass of red Burgundy.

Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)?

My two kids, (British chef ) Mark Hix, Charlotte Bronte, Alice Waters.

Who would cook?

Mark Hix. Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

Awesome, brilliant.

Current culinary obsession/exploration?

Fermentation.

Meaningful/crazy cooking experience?

When I was 13 I decided to make my Dad a ballotine of duck. We were living in Ottawa at the time. I found the recipe in a book—it was a huge amount of fun.

Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you?

I went to a cooking class taught by Mark Hix. He cooked traditional English dishes made from things he had foraged and he made a stargazy pie.

Mentors?

MoJo JoJo founder Johwanna Allyne, CJ Jackson (Billingsgate Fish Market, London) and my kids. I learn from them all the time.

Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food?

I am a cheesehound—love a good piece of cheese with some fruit. Dim sum.

Philosophy?

I’m all about food being accessible and fun.

What’s next?

Christmas menus and looking at venturing into catering.

26 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Cook it raw

DRINK SUPERIOR

Continued from page 7

“I started pickling beets; Andrew made some baby gnocchi. We made a quail and chorizo sausage and a quail reduction—adding the chorizo to the carcasses with morel mushrooms, wild garlic. It looked like a stony mustard.

“We had 15 ingredients on that plate— pickled veg, kohlrabi puree, quail eggs, charred baby carrots, all small and bitty, gorgeous baby cherries, super bitter. We made the ragout out of the Red Fife heart, took about five hours to cook it down. Our dish ended up looking unreal with lots of colour and tasted great.

“We pulled a great dish. What I took from it all was how different we all are.

He’s very knowledgable about gardening, has his own gardening lady. Last time I did any gardening I was a kid.”

Keg n Cork Liquor Company

Exclusive Edmonton retailer of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

3845 99 Street www.kegncork.com info@kegncork.com 780.461.0191

Left: Braydon Kozak, above: Paul Rogalski Cook It Raw at Lac la Biche.

“After being part of the bison kill and having been to kill days at Jeff Senger’s, I wanted to highlight that this was once an animal. We came up with a landscape of farm/kill floor starting with beet gastrique in a gunshot pattern with steel cut oats. We honoured our Ukrainian backgrounds with beet green rolls. We gave each other feedback. The dish itself is not practical, you won’t have this in a restaurant—we took a philisophical approach.

“My experience with Cook it Raw? It’s new every time we do something. On the fly is how we roll.

Brayden Kozak, Three Boars Eatery and Paul Rogalski, Rouge Restaurant

BISON “I was excited to work with Paul because of his time in the industry and his restaurant is very successful,” says Brayden. “He has a lot of knowledge about cooking and food in general. I did not know him before we met on the island (Cook it Raw part one, Lac la Biche in May) and we clicked on our farm tour. He is one of those people you like being around and want to be around. That was nice.

www.themarc.ca

@themarcedmonton

“Kananaskis will be an absolutely exhausting week. Satisfying and grueling. It’s good for Alberta and good for us individually. The idea is to brainstorm; the international chefs will have their own perspective on what to do with the ingredient. I’m looking forward to rubbing elbows.

“I didn’t really know Blair or Shane until now and it’s really interesting how Cook it Raw is blurring the line between Edmonton and Calgary. I’ve gone from not knowing anyone to knowing a decent handful of top chefs in that city.

Cook it Raw has already achieved what they wanted it to do—bringing chefs together to think collectively.

“It’s mind blowing to be a part of it and a pretty surreal experience overall.”

The Tomato | September October 2015 27

36 Hours Continued from page 9.

released: the traditional method sparkling wine Ella 2103 (80 per cent Pinot, 20 per cent Chard) is available to taste on Fridays only—time your visit accordingly. Nice people, fine wines, convenient location right by the side of the highway.

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Gluten Free, Fresh 10940 - 120 Street Open Tuesday to Saturday www.GetItFresh.ca 780-732-7527 GLUTEN FREE HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD®

28 September October 2015 | The Tomato

From top: Mexican journalist Marck Guttman poses in front of Maverick’s wine wall; Stoneboat Vineyard’s Lanny Martiniuk in the vineyard and (inset) Bill Adams in the barrel room.

The loungable pool at Black Hills.

stoneboat vineyards Lanny Martiniuk has been growing fruit in the south Okanagan for several decades.

He grew for commercial wineries, was a part of the Becker Project (how the Okanagan discovered it could grow vinifera, not just hybrids) and helps establish vinyards for new wineries. In other words, there’s not much Lanny Martiniuk doesn’t know about growing grapes. So, when he tells you his Pinotage doesn’t smell like bandaids or taste funky you listen.

Shop where the chefs shop.

Former Blue Mountain assistant winemaker Bill Adams’ expertise is valuable for Stoneboat’s newest project, elegant sparkling wines.

The Pinotage are glorious—fragrant, big and rich, tasting of smoked meat and brambly fruit with fine silky tannins and good structure. The sparkling wines go into the trunk for sipping later by the pool. Stoneboat’s wine shop has an excellent selection of BC grown foodstuffs as well. And, if you are lucky, the adorable new shepherd puppy will be in the house.

black hills estate winery “We still have a few bottles of the 1999 Nota Bene, probably enough to do vertical tasting for another 20 years,” says Glenn Fawcett, referring to the iconic red wine that made the reputation of the winery.

Black Hills is not just about structured Bordeaux blends built to last. They make a lively Carmenere that is snapped up by wine club members; an exceptional white wine called Alibi created by the original winemaker Senka Tennant—a forthright blend of Sauv Blanc and Semillon that rewards the patient—as well as two affordable everyday wines, Cellar Hand Free Run White and Punch Down Red. This year’s tasting of the 1999 to 2013 Nota Bene, with a barrel tasting of the 2014, will be on Saturday, October 3.

The winery experience at Black Hills is fun—loungy with cabanas around the pool and a DJ spinning along with great food coming out of chef James Holmes’ trailer.

Wine. Spirits. Beer. Specialty Items. Unique Gifts.

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The Tomato | September October 2015 29

Harvest Bounty Continued from page 11.

aluminum foil. Make sure that each ramekin is well-sealed; no water vapour should get into the crème caramel. Bake for 32 minutes in 375ºF oven.

Pumpkin Puree

H A R D WA R E G R I L L YOU DON’T NEED A SPECIAL OCCASION to enjoy fine food at reasonable prices. Introducing our

BEFORE SUNSET MENU • $50 A 3-course menu designed for those looking for a quick dinner, on their way to a movie or event, or who just want to avoid cooking at home—great value, even greater food.

Monday to Thursday 5 pm - 9:30 pm Friday and Saturday 5 pm - 6:30 pm Visit our Facebook page for weekly menus 2015 recipient of OpenTable’s Top 100 Best Restaurants in Canada www.hardwaregrill.com 780.423.0969 97 Street & Jasper Avenue CHEF’S TABLE IN THE KITCHEN • PRIVATE CONFERENCE ROOM

1

cabotia (kabocha) pumpkin

1½

c sugar, divided

1

T cinnamon

1

T nutmeg

Serves 4.

Cut cabotia pumpkin into segments and remove seeds.

Myhre Family Borshch

In a hotel pan or roaster, pour an inch or so of water, then lay a piece of foil on top. Place pumpkin on top of the foil and sprinkle with 1 cup of sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. Cover, seal with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle remaining sugar on the pumpkin, cover and reseal with the same foil and bake for another 15 minutes.

Chef Gail Hall, Brad Smoliak, and myself were judges for the borshch cook off at the Babas & Borshch festival in Andrew. The soups were amazing, each made with fresh garden vegetables and lots of love; it was extremely hard to pick three winners. New to me was the Doukhobor version of borsch, a cabbage and potato-heavy, pale gold version. Kim Myhre’s was particularly delicious, rich and savoury.

Kim sent the recipe along with this note:

When done baking, use a large spoon to take the flesh off the skin. It should have a soft texture. Discard the skin and puree the caramelized pumpkin flesh with a hand blender until smooth. Set aside and refrigerate.

Makes 6 pumpkin crème caramel.

“My family gets together for Russian parties; my sister makes the borshch and I make Pudhea (another Russian dish we grew up on). We eat, share a few shots of vodka (I’m sure that is another Russian tradition!) Below is my grandmother’s recipe for borscht—she didn’t have amounts but just the process—and my process has developed each time I make it.”

—Kim Myhre

Fry onions, tomatoes, green pepper.

Fill pot full of water.

Grilled Leeks in Vinaigrette

Add carrots and potatoes.

Gail Norton, From the Farm, The Alberta Farmers Market Association Cookbook

Fry with butter – set to side.

12

young leeks

Add cream to cooled potatoes.

2

T Dijon mustard

Put fried cabbage into pot.

2

T vegetable or chicken stock

Add potatoes last.

2

T sherry wine vinegar

Watch beet.

⅓

c good olive oil

Bring soup back to boil.

sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper 2

hard boiled eggs, chopped

garnish of chives

Wash the leeks very well and trim the green leaves to about 1 inch from the

30 September October 2015 | The Tomato

white part of the leeks. Steam leeks until slightly cooked, then finish them on the grill until tender. Once they are cooled, slice them in half lengthwise and lay on a platter or on the individual plates. Whisk together the mustard, stock, vinegar, salt and pepper, then begin adding the olive oil until you have a thick emulsion. Taste and adjust with more vinegar or oil. Pour the vinaigrette over the leeks and garnish with the finely chopped egg and chives.

Beet, quarter it and add it to the pot.

Chop up cabbage.

Take out potatoes once cooked.

Mouth-watering food and jaw-dropping scenery. Could get messy.

Bon Appétit Banff is back. For 10 mouth-watering days - November 12 to 22 – over 30 of the finest restaurants in Banff and Lake Louise will create unique three-course menus at fixed prices of $27, $37, $47 & $57. Plus, check out new culinary events and dine-arounds for the complete mountain dining experience.

For all the delicious details, visit BanffLakeLouise.com/BonAppetitBanff

FINE WINE, SPIRITS AND ALES

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780.458.4777 • info@unwined.biz www.unwined.biz • 2, 512 St. Albert Trail

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what’s new and notable Kitchen Sink wine tastings, happenings and events Crazy hot culinary talent coming for Alberta Cook it Raw: Albert Adria (Spain), Elizabeth Falkner, Amanda Cohen, Preeti Mistri and Brandon Baltzley (US), Magnus Ek (Sweden) and Syrco Bakker (Holland).Tickets for the closing event at Rouge, October 11, $125/p at cookitraw.org. Don’t miss it.

Love Port? Don’t miss the Fonseca Port Party, September 9 at NAIT’s Ernest’s Restaurant (11762 106 Street), 6pm, $35/p, csoderlind@nait.ca to book.

Chef Brad Smoliak (Kitchen by Brad, 10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704, kitchenbybrad.ca) is having another lovely outdoor dinner at Elk Island National Park (yes, there is a rain plan) just 35 minutes from downtown Edmonton on September 12. Tix are $135/p, includes park admission, at kitchenbybrad.ca.

St Albert’s Dig In Horticulinary Festival is the event that merges horticulture and culinary into a celebration of eating, growing and staying local. The action begins Thursday, October 1 and continues until Saturday with high-energy interactive cooking, composting and winter gardening sessions. On Friday, October 2, enjoy the Dig in Chef ’s Collaborative Gala Dinner with a fantastic lineup of chefs participating: Andrew Cowan (Packrat Louie), J.W. Foster (Fairmont Banff Springs), Danielle Job (Holt Renfrew Café), Tony Krause (The Salt Room), Rino Lam (X1X Nineteen) and Brad Lazarenko (Culina), diginstalbert.ca.

Join whisky chef Matt Jones at Mansgiving, Friday October 23, at Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704 kitchenbybrad.ca). Enjoy food by Brad and handcrafted cocktails featuring Jim Beam. $145/p + gst. Seating limited, tickets on sale September 12.

Love animals? Join Nora Bumanis and Micki Ruth, rescuers of Gracie and Merlin at a fundraiser for the Animal Rescue Society at Color da Vino (9606 Whyte Avenue, 780-439-9069 colordevino.ca), Monday September 28, 7-9pm, $75/p. Nora, an acclaimed Edmonton harpist and her band mates will play a few sets with wine and snacks. Ticket price and a percentage of sales are being donated.

There are still opportunities to experience a stellar Rge Rd dinner at Prairie Gardens & Adventure Farm (Bon Accord, PrairieGardens.org). On Wednesday, September 9, Fall Harvest Midweek Getaway Dinner; Sunday, September 13, Edmonton Area Land Trust Fundraiser Dinner; Sunday, September 20, Falloween

32 September October 2015 | The Tomato

Pumpkin Palooza Theme Longtable Dinner; Sunday, November 8, Last Winter Dinner of the Season: Roots, Shoots and Winter Squash. To book, visit prairiegardens.org/range-road-gourmet-dinner.

Parallel 49 Beer tasting; October 1, Masi Wine tasting with snacks, 7:30pm, $35/p, book online; October 2, Drop-in Old World Wine tasting. The drop-in tastings are free and start at 4pm.

Help Color da Vino (9606 Whyte Avenue, 780-4399069, colordevino.ca) celebrate its first anniversary on September 12 from 1-4pm with wine and beer sampling and snacks by chef Doreen Prei.

The Rotary Club of Edmonton Gateway and Kegn’Cork present Robust Reds at the Delta Hotel on September 11. Tickets, $75/p, robustreds.ca.

Edmonton Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival returns to the Shaw Conference Centre November 6 7, for its 14th year. The Grand Tasting Hall offers a unique opportunity to explore new wines, premium spirits, single malt and blended scotches, port, specialty liqueurs, and craft beers in every price range. Early bird tickets on sale until September 30 at rockymountainwine.com.

Break out your lederhosen and dirndl for the 2nd annual Edmonton Oktoberfest at Expo Centre, Northlands, October 2-3, featuring craft beers, cask samples, dancing to the German Knights polka band with the Schuhplattler dancers. Tickets at albertabeerfestivals.com. Ein Protist!

Fruits of Sherbrooke has teamed up with E4C to raise $17,000 for commercial equipment, kitchen supplies and packaging materials to produce 50,000 apple snack bags for E4C’s Healthy Snack Program. It provides a nutritious mid-morning snack or breakfast every school day to over 5,600 students in 23 high-needs schools. To donate to Project: Fruit Stars, visit KickStarter.com.

Don’t delay, the campaign runs until September 16.

No time like now to start thinking about family and corporate holiday parties. The Union Bank Inn and Madison’s Grill will have fall and holiday menus online in late September, unionbankinn.com Upcoming tastings at UnWined Fine Wines, Spirits & Ales (#2 512 St. Albert Trail, St. Albert, 780-458-4777 and #203 Edmonton City Centre, 780-421-0015) Accidental Sommelier Beyond Series: September 22, Beyond Turkey; October 27, Beyond Sangiovese.

Both tastings are at the St Albert store.

Color da Vino (9606 Whyte Avenue, 780-439-9069 colordevino.ca) upcoming tastings: Winemaker vs Terroir, 7pm-9pm, September 30, with sommelier Stacey-Jo Strombecky, $25/p. Check the website colordevino.ca for last minute tastings and events.

Check out the fall tastings at Keg n Cork Liquor Company (3845 99 Street, 780-461-0191, kegncork. com): September 11, 6:30pm, September 17, Drop-in

Don’t miss Bacon Day October 17, 6pm at the Workshop Eatery, 2003 91 Street SW) if only to watch chefs Andrew Cowan and Paul Shufelt go head to head (or is that snout to snout) in the Bacon Dessert Cookoff. October 17, 6pm, tickets eventbrite.ca. Proceeds to YESS (Youth Empowerment Support Services) Boulangerie Bonjour is planning a series of international wine and cheese evenings to raise funds for the Help One Another Foundation starting in November. Food by chef Doreen Prei, wine by Color da Vino and bread and cheese from Boulangerie Bonjour. Full details at helponeanotherfdn.org.

Who doesn’t love a trip to the mountains, especially in November when they are not so crowded? Explore Bon Appétit Banff from November 12-22. Exceptional restaurants in Banff and Lake Louise offer unique three-course menus, including three options per course, at four price levels from $27 to $57/p. This 10-day food festival includes Dine Around Banff and unique culinary Signature Events. Visit BanffLakeLouise.com/ bonappetitbanff for participating restaurants and menus and start planning your shoulder season getaway.

cooking classes Get Cooking (11050 104 Avenue, 780-934-8058, getcookingedmonton.com) has a terrific lineup this fall of classes with guest chefs: September 8, Modern French with David Leeder; September 10, Spanish with David Leeder; September 20, Taco Shop with Israel Alvarez; September 22, Pressure Cooking with Ben Staley; September 27, Roasting, Boasting & Hosting with The Local Omnivore; September 30, Cooking for Gents with Alexei Boldireff; October 13, A Vegan Vacation with Rylan Krause; October 17, Harvest Preserves with Ben Staley, and October 29 is the Relishfest Dinner & a Movie with chef Doreen Prei. Find all the info at getcookingedmonton.com.

Check out the lineup of cooking and product demos at Barb’s Kitchen Centre (9766 51 Avenue, 780-4373134, barbskitchen.com). Classes include specialty and whole grain breads, and holiday treats.

Learn some quick tips for making festive side dishes at Seasoned Solutions Express Cooking Class: Sides for Thanksgiving, September 30, 6:308:30 pm, $49.95 plus GST. To book: gail@seasonedsolutions.ca or 780-4370761. See the full class schedule at seasonedsolutions.ca.

Wondering what to do with all those fabulous fall vegetables? The Pan Tree (550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca) is having a cooking class featuring the Riverbend CSA program September 29, and on September 30 a class devoted to squash. If you love veg, register on their web site or call the store.

culinary travel Join chef Vinod Lohtia on a culinary tour featuring the flavours, culture, colours and history of south India, on the Culinary Journey of South India, September 17-30, 2016. Visit toureast. com/Destinations/IndianSubcontinent/ India/Culinary-Journey-of-South-Indiawith-Chef-Lohtia for all the details and itinerary. Chef Lohtia leads tours to Vietnam and Cambodia in fall 2017.

Take a culinary journey with Gail Hall: A Taste of Alberta from Camrose to Provost, September 12, 13, includes a visit to the Bodo bison hunting archeological site. South India, February 25 - March 9, 2016, explores the culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, $5,295 plus taxes, grats and airfare. Details and highlights for all tours at seasonedsolutions.ca.

product news Bella Casa (9646 142 Street, 780-4374190, bellacasadcl.com) has launched their online shopping portal at shop. bellacasadcl.com. It’s a great resource to compare styles and colour or just to check if that Le Creuset piece you are lusting after is in stock.

This time of the year can be fantastic for produce. The Green & Gold Community Garden on the University of Alberta’s South Campus (approximately 118 street and 61 Avenue, off 113 street behind the School

for the Deaf ) is bursting with stellar veg up until Thanksgiving weekend. Visit Tuesday evenings 6:30pm - 7:30pm and Saturdays 11am-1pm. Buying vegetables there supports the Tubahumurize Association (www.rwandanwomencan. org), an organization for Rwandan women that supports victims of violence or socioeconomic hardship.

The Newget Kompany will be at the Edmonton Downtown Market (104 Street, north of Jasper Avenue) September 19, 26 and October 3 and at several fairs this fall: St Albert’s Country Craft Fair November 21, 22; the Royal Glenora Gift Show November 22; and Make It November 26-29 at the Edmonton Expo Centre in Hall H. Or order on-line at newget.ca, call 780-995-1115, or email newgetko@gmail.com.

Spencer Thompson (Toast at the Old Strathcona Market) and general manager Brandon Baker are taking over the Tavern 1903 space in the Alberta Hotel.

“It’s part of my 10-year goal to have a restaurant of this size (120 seats). Our concept is honest food and an awesome cocktail program,” says Spencer whose experience includes several years with the Sorrentino’s Group. The menus will be highlighted by produce from their eight-acre farm near Mirror. The new resto expects to be open in October.

Lazia Restaurant (10200 102 Avenue, Edmonton City Centre, 780-9900188, lazia.ca) offers a cool promotion to highlight their new menu— a complementary small plate with the order of any two entrees. That’s an appetizer on the house! The offer is available after 2pm daily.

10643 123 St.

restaurant news Rg Rd (10643 123 Street, 780-4474577 rgerd.ca) is close to completing their new space called The Butchery, an open-concept kitchen with a second wood burning oven for their baking program by chef Rob Ingram, a full butcher shop and a private dining room with soaring open ceilings overlooking it all. The expansion allows them to fully utilize the whole animal, a fundamental aspect of a sustainable kitchen, and something that chef Blair Lebsack, partner Caitlin Fulton and their kitchen team have practised from the beginning.

Now they will be able to do it all of the time. Opening late fall.

Former Century Hospitality exec chef Paul Shufelt is opening The Workshop Eatery this fall in the Mosaic Centre, 2003 91 Street. Key staffers include sous chef Andrew Morrison and chef de partie Vilma Casimiro. Chef has been in the throes of construction all summer “I have been thinking, what the hell have I got myself into?”

Expect a menu with a farm to table focus (there are bee hives on the roof for their own honey and a pickling room) in a glass/polished concrete/butcher block/ minimalistic look with 69 seats. We’re thrilled that there are more interesting places opening up in the deep south.

Here’s the lineup for Gold Medal Plates Thursday October 22: Steve Buzak, Royal Glenora Club; Nathin Bye, Ampersand 27; Andrew Cowan, Pack Rat Louie; Bryan Cruz, The Marc Restaurant; Corey McGuire, Tzin; Lindsay Porter, El Cortez; Cory Rakowksy/Nathin Henry, 12 Acres; Paul Shufelt, Workplace Eatery; Joe Srahulek, Chateau Lacombe Hotel; Jan Trittenbach, Solstice. Gold Medal Plates has generated over $9.4 million for amateur Olympic athletes since 2004. Visit goldmedalplates.com for tix soon; Edmonton always sells out early.

✸

780 447 4577

RGERD.CA

Great food is your pleasure.

The 104 Street Promenade is home to a new café called Santé (10184 104 Street @santeyeg) open 8am-4pm, serving cold-pressed juices and smoothies, salads, and baked goods from Bliss Bakery. Check it out! enRoute Canada’s Best New Restaurants list has become the goto source for where to eat across the country. Now diners have a chance to make sure their fave makes it to the final 10. Rostizado is the sole Edmonton contender (admittedly, we didn’t have many openings last year) and needs your vote. Visit EATANDVOTE.com to vote.

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

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9658 - 142 St. NW Edmonton www.crestwoodfinewines.com

The Tomato | September October 2015 33

According to Judy

Judy Schultz

Ode to a small garden Our garden is tiny, by any standards. For the past several summers we’ve been part of a community garden, and I’ve cherished every square centimeter of available dirt.

I like the tight, neat rows, the friendly chatter among fellow gardeners, the smell of fresh dillweed, the generosity of successful squash growers. Our community garden patch at Old Man Creek has to move next year in the name of progress, and as the summer of 2015 winds down, I feel a bit nostalgic.

Nourishing Entertainment!

Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video. metrocinema.org Celebrating 75 years of on Screen Magic

September 18-21 a 4 day extravaganza highlighting both 1940 and 2015, as well some signature Metro events.

Cowspiracy: The Sustainability Secret

October 8 at 7:00PM A groundbreaking environmental documentary uncovering the most destructive industry facing the planet today – and why the world’s leading environmental organizations are too afraid to talk about it.

How To Change The World October 9-12 Chronicling the adventures of an eclectic group of young pioneers who set out to stop Richard Nixon’s atomic bomb tests in Amchitka, Alaska, and end up creating the worldwide green movement.

Metro Cinema at the Garneau

Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:

8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org

34 September October 2015 | The Tomato

This year, in five short rows, we’ve grown tomatoes and purple kale, wax beans and hyacinth beans, beets and a few carrots. We also produced a dozen gorgeous sunflowers, a happy accident from a previous gardener in a previous year. They grew like weeds. I cut armloads of them to stuff in big pitchers, and magnificent is the only word for them.

I admit, my horticultural successes have been hit-and-miss. Last year’s bumper crop was carrots, which I supplied to family and neighbours whether or not they wanted them. This year? No carrots.

The carrots-that-didn’t-grow came as a rude shock. I replanted in mid-June, with little success. Now I know what it means to have a crop failure.

My great success this year was tomatoes.

Three enterprising children in our garden club took plant orders way back in February, and I signed up for cherry tumblers, beefsteaks and Indigo Rose, advertised as an exotic black tomato.

In due course the tomato plants showed up, each one in its own Styrofoam cup.

The Indigo Rose is the most exotic tomato I’ve ever grown: small blackskinned fruit with red-purple flesh. The flavour is subtle, more tart than sweet, with hints of fried green tomatoes and

my favourite tomato paste, a dark, rusty looking concoction I buy in tubes at the Italian Centre Shop.

Loving vegetables as I do, I was thrilled to see my friend Rose Murray top off the 2015 gardening season with her latest project, Rose Murray’s A-Z Vegetable Cookbook. Rose, who has presented at Christmas in November many times, is a consummate cook, gardener and supporter of farmers’ markets. This book includes 250 of her best recipes, everything from asparagus to zucchini, including kale chips, curried eggplant, black bean chili, and my own favourite recipe for sweet pepper tapenade with sun-dried tomatoes.

One recipe that didn’t make it into Rose’s new collection is this one, a throwtogether dish for a day when you have too many tomatoes.

They need to be ripe, and the bigger the better.

Butter a pie plate.

Slice four or five big beefsteak tomatoes, overlapping them in the plate. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Reduce four slices of bread to coarse crumbs and brown them in butter and olive oil, along with two slices of bacon, finely diced, a clove of minced garlic, a couple of chopped green onions and a few leaves of fresh oregano. Sprinkle this mixture over the tomatoes.

Top generously with your favourite grated cheese (a combination of Swiss and mozza works well) and bake at 350ºF until the cheese bubbles.

Expect the tomatoes to take about 20 minutes, unless you want to run them under the broiler, in which case it won’t take more than 10. Serve them warm.

Tear a few fresh basil leaves over them if you have any left. This is good for brunch or lunch, with scrambled eggs, toast and a heap of bacon.

Judy Schultz loves bacon in everything except ice cream.

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