The Tomato Food & Drink January-February 2015

Formerly City Palate

Take a bite of your city | January February 2015 | thetomato.ca

Winter picnics • What not to eat when you’re expecting • Alberta beverage awards

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Contents Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Features

Publisher BGP Publishing

Copy Editor Don Retson

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Jennifer Crosby Cindy Lazarenko Jacquie Lycka Judy Schultz

Good things to eat outside in the cold | Mary Bailey

14 What not to eat when you’re expecting Don’t believe Dr. Google | Jennifer Crosby

22 Eating from the pantry Bits of cheese and tins of rice | Mary Bailey

Jason Dziver Gerry Rasmussen

Departments

Advertising Sales

5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Design and Prepress Bossanova Communications Inc.

8 Alberta Beverage Awards Check out top wines of 2014

Illustration/Photography

John Quark

6 The winter picnic

16 Beer Guy Beer League | Peter Bailey

Printer

18 Feeding People Groceries to go | Jacquie Lycka

Distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@telus.net

20 The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Ryan O’Flynn, executive chef Westin Edmonton, 2014 Gold Medal Plates gold medalist

26 Wine Maven

For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

28 Kitchen Sink

The Tomato is published six times per year:

January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

What’s new and notable

30 According to Judy The goddess of gravy weighs in | Judy Schultz

Cover illustration: Kyle Brownrigg (kylebrownrigg.com)

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca

The Tomato | January February 2015 3

ICS_DecemberAd.pdf

1

12/10/14

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you know you want more...

9929 – 109 Street NW

www.pampasteakhouse.com 780.756.7030

Dish

gastronomic happenings around town

under the knife Don’t miss Sage exec chef Shane Chartrand, on this season’s Chopped Canada (episode nine: Every Round Has its Thorn). We’ve been big fans of Shane ever since his apprenticeship days. He’s an active participant in our culinary scene, a stalwart competitor in Gold Medal Plates, and has graced several local kitchens. Good luck! Other contestants with an Edmonton connection include the affable Roary MacPherson from Mount Pearl, Newfoundland, former Fairmont Hotel Macdonald exec chef, and NAIT-trained chefs Abraham Wornovitzky and Daryle Ryo Nagata.

four and twenty blackbirds Café Blackbird has opened in the former Jeffery’s Café spot in Crestwood Shopping Centre. Expect live music at night, great coffee, sweets made by the owner’s mother, and a killer signature dish, the deliciously mushroomy Blackbird pie. The owners enlisted Culina founder Brad Lazarenko to help get them up and running — they had met Brad through the Culina Cantina at Edmonton Police HQ. Open daily with brunch available on the weekends, 9640 142 Street, 780-451-8890, cafeblackbird.ca.

it’s a wrap!

The inaugural Relish Food on Film Festival offered three days of screenings and events at Metro Cinema, including a lively panel discussion on what it means to farm today. The panelists, vegetable grower Jenny Berkenbosch of Sundog Farm; lamb producer Vicky Horn of Tangle Ridge Ranch; cheesemaker Rhonda Headon of the Cheesiry, and urban farmer Kathryn Sprague of Reclaim Urban Farm described their experiences of farming as a modern career choice. Relish-goers enjoyed dinner and a movie at Culina (Tampopo), Kichen

by Brad (Knifehammer) and Get Cooking (Tortilla Soup); Le Cite Francophone screened French language films. Relish will be back next fall with another entertaining lineup of food films and events.

don’t forget the marabou slippers Who doesn’t want a heart-shaped box of chocolates?

Apparently, everyone does. According to a Chocolate Manufactuerers Association survey, 36 million heart-shaped boxes of chocolates were sold in the US last year. What’s more fun? When the box is chocolate. This offering from cococo (Bernard Callebaut) comes in three sizes of milk or dark chocolate filled with a variety of fresh hand-crafted chocolates. From $31.

aspiring planners need to know NAIT Continuing Education’s new event management certificate is one of the most comprehensive in the country. “We completely redeveloped the event management offering,” says Nancy Milakovic, program manager, Business and Hospitality, Continuing Education. The certificate covers everything aspiring planners would need to know including marketing, sponsorship and critical path analysis.

“It prepares people for a meaningful career in events, the depth we’ve gone to, people can hit the ground running. They will be able to walk into any environment and get started,” says Nancy. For the complete course lineup, visit nait.ca/docs/ConEd.

save the date The California Wine Fair rolls into town Wednesday, April 22, 7pm-9:30pm, at Shaw Conference Centre. The annual fundraiser for the Citadel is a highlight for wine lovers, both for its affordable price tag and for its many delicious libations from the sunny state. Tickets, $75, at the Citadel Box office, 780-425-1802.

just in time for Valentine’s day Any dish will taste delicious in this darling pot, a heartshaped Le Crueset casserole.

Love it for more than its looks, it is dishwasher safe, made from efficient enameled cast iron with a heavy-duty tight-fitting lid (the knob is ovenproof to 450ºF).

Tortilla Soup screens at Get Cooking — part of Relish Fest 2014.

The Tomato | January February 2015 5

Mary Bailey

The Winter Picnic Good Things to Eat Outside in the Cold

The dazzling cerulean sky, the razorsharp crispness in the air, the brilliant sunlight sparkling on snow — we have that. A whole season of it, and yes it’s gorgeous to look at from the comfort of the couch. But live in it? We do it reluctantly.

This year, rather than grousing about the cold, let’s embrace it — let’s layer up and get outside for a picnic. Park benches don’t disappear in the winter and what better way to refuel after a ski or snowshoe.

How about a picnic in the backyard?

Light the firepit, crank up the barbecue, scoot under some blankets to stay cozy.

We’ll feel invigorated and winter won’t seem half as long.

What to eat at a winter picnic.

You want to be able to stay bundled, hats and gloves on. Anything that requires dexterity is out. Oysters we won’t be shucking, but a sandwich and a thermos? The heaviest mittens can handle that. The food doesn’t need to be complicated, as everything tastes better when enjoyed in the open. Hot soup on cold days is an obvious choice, but make it smooth-textured, not chunky, all the better to sip from a thermos cup.

A grilled cheese sandwich can survive being wrapped in foil and kept warm via body heat. Think of pairings that contrast with the mellow richness of cheese — cheddar with mustard, nutty Gruyere with dried cranberries, or a young Sylvan Star Gouda with a tangy beet horseradish relish.

Make hand pies. Empanadas, Cornish pasties, Jamaican beef. A sturdy pastry crust (filo is too flaky) and the half moon shape makes them easy to eat wearing mittens. Sweet or savoury, a pie 6 January February 2015 | The Tomato

2

litres vegetable stock

kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

you can eat with one hand is ideal for a winter picnic.

½ c gin (a gin with an overt juniper character such as Tanqueray is best)

What to drink at a winter picnic.

Hot chocolate, tea or coffee, with or without alcohol. Use spirit sparingly, as a flavouring for your hot drink, as too much has a chilling rather than a warming effect. Paradoxically, icy Champagne is a terrific winter beverage — something about the bubbles, perhaps?

Gin Tomato Soup Adapted from the original Le Crocodile recipe; we use canned tomatoes instead of fresh. The alcohol in the gin cooks out, leaving a subtle hint of wintery juniper flavour.

1

medium onion, chopped

2

T butter

2 large cans tomato (we recommend La Pavoncella brand, at the Italian Centre Shops) 1

potato, cut into chunks

4

c chicken broth

2

T tomato paste

2

bay leaves

In a large saucepan, sauté the onion in butter until soft and translucent. Add tomatoes, potato, chicken broth, tomato paste, bay leaves, salt and pepper and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes.

Remove bay leaves, purée the mixture in a food processor or blender and put through a strainer. Return the strained mixture to the saucepan and stir in the cream and gin. Add the nutmeg and simmer for an additional 10 minutes.

Pour into a thermos.

1

c cream or milk

Serves 6-8

Cranberry Kale Sausage Hand Pie 2½ c flour plus more for rolling 1 c (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1½ t salt ½ c ice water 1

T extra-virgin olive oil

1 c (about 2-4 sausages depending on size) broken-up sweet or hot Italian, turkey or pork sausage

Makes 6 servings.

1

med onion, diced

Cibo Bistro’s White Bean With Rosemary Soup

1 bunch kale (or Swiss chard)

Cibo’s chef/owner Rosario Caputo serves this soup with a drizzle of house-made rosemary oil.

kosher salt and fresh-ground

4

sticks celery, chopped

1

onion, chopped

3

T olive oil

1 branch fresh rosemary, leaves taken off the woody stem and rough

kosher salt and fresh-ground black pepper

dash nutmeg

Sweat the onions, celery, rosemary and cloves in oil until the onions are soft.

Add beans and stock. Simmer for an hour. Blitz the soup with an immersion blender (or put in a blender or food processor) then strain. Return to the pot to reheat and taste for seasoning. Pour into a thermos.

chopped 2

whole cloves

750 g dried white cannellini beans, soaked and cooked

chopped fine, tough ribs removed. ¼ c dried cranberries pepper egg wash for brushing

In a food processor, pulse flour, butter, and salt until mixture resembles coarse meal, with a few pea-size pieces of butter remaining. With machine running, sprinkle with about half of the ice water; pulse until dough holds together Please see “Winter Picnic” on page 11

More Good Things The Cavern’s Tricia Bell on Grilled Cheese “Selecting a cheese with appropriate melting characteristics will generate the most predictable results. However, playing around with non-classic melters (like fresh chèvre) can be a super fun adventure.

Cook on a low-medium temperature for even melting and cooking.

Use butter, preferably salted. My favourite recipe for grilled cheese is with Appenzeller, a classic Swiss melting cheese. Its pleasantly sweet taste is in contrast to the savoury jam, leaving a wonderfully balanced and rich sensation on the palate.”

Appenzeller with Roasted Onion Garlic Jam 56 g (approx 4 T) Appenzeller 4 T roasted onion garlic jam

A Sensory Experience!..

The ShopS aT Boudreau | ST. alBerT, alBerTa #109 150 BelleroSe dr. | hickSfinewineS.com | 780-569-5000

butter to spread evenly sourdough or French bread

Spread butter evenly on the outside of each bread slice. Spread half of the onion garlic jam on inside of one sourdough slice, layer Appenzeller, then spread the remaining jam on the inside of the other.

Grill in a 100 per cent stainless steel pan or cast iron skillet. Cook until golden brown on each side and the cheese has completely melted, 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning once. Before removing from the pan, flip sandwiches to reheat first side, about 15 seconds. Serves 2.

Takeaway Winter Picnic

In-Store Tastings | Food & Wine Pairing

A winter picnic might be a spontaneous idea; now we’re talking takeout coffee and a pick-up order. Sushi could work, especially the small, one-bite size, or a sandwich. The key to a good sandwich experience when wearing mittens is to make sure the sandwich is not too saucy or drippy — this is not the time for a runny egg in your sammie. Or, for something completely different, try savoury arancini (deliciously cheesy rice balls) from Cibo Bistro.

• Fun and Education — it’s all about the experience

Cibo Bistro 11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426 closed Sunday Monday A four-pack of arancini from Cibo for $8, divine.

The Italian Centre Shop 10879 95 Street open daily, pick up only The Italian Centre sandwich is an (almost) foot-long layered beauty, chock-full of salumi and cheese with just enough sauce for flavour.

• Wines for every occasion • Premium & Luxury Spirits • Craft Beers 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850

ULTIMATE SOCIAL EXPERIENCE in downtown St. Albert

Wed-Thu 4-10pm

Fri-Sat 12-12

please call or email for reservation 100, 21 Perron St. • St. Albert • 780-569-5479 • privadawinebar.com

Farrow Sandwich 8422 109 Street, 780- 757-4160 Wednesday thru Monday Vegans, vegetarians and carnivores are equally happy with the offerings at Farrow.

Kim Thuyet 10645 97 Street, hours vary This tiny Vietnamese sandwich spot in the heart of Chinatown is our bet for the tastiest bahn mie.

Café Blackbird 9640 142 Street, 780-451-8890, open daily Café Blackbird’s Blackbird Pie (old-school pastry with a toothsome mushroom filling) could qualify as a hand pie, even though it’s round.

Where all the best parties happen.

780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street

The Tomato | January February 2015 7

A L B E R TA B E V E R AG E AWA R D S 2 0 1 4

Best in Class MARY BAILEY

The Alberta Beverage Awards, sponsored by Calgary’s Culinaire Magazine, are becoming an important source of accolades for wines, spirits and beer sold in the province. The home-grown competition, only two years old, had over 500 wines entered this year, with wines from 80 grapes from 17 different countries, and nearly 200 beer and spirits.

“We were thrilled by the range and quality of the entries, and hope that you enjoy them as well,” said Tom Firth, competition director.

Erin Chipchura, sommelier, Co-op wines, myself, and Chuck Elves from Three Boars Eatery were invited to judge, rounding out the Calgary-based group of somms, educators, and retailers. It’s a massive undertaking. Several members of the wine community pitch in to run the back room where every beverage is opened, tasted for faults, then poured for the judges.

Did I taste all 500 wines? It felt like that was so, but no, we blind tasted several wines in several flights over two days. Sometimes, unbeknownst to the table, we tasted the same wines twice (and were happy to realize it, not as easy as it sounds).

Here are the best in class category winners, followed by judges’ comments.

SPARKLING WINE Champagne H. Blin NV Brut Champagne, France, $34 Relatively new to the Alberta market, the NV champagne from H. Blin was the top scorer here. Toasty notes with bright fruits, mineral presence, and a long, lean finish. – Erica Tocco, wine director, Vin Room

WHITE WINES White Single Vintage 2012 Graf von Schonborn Estate Weisser Burgunder, Franken, Germany, $18.

This is 100 percent Pinot Blanc from Germany (more than just good Riesling comes from Germany), judges loved the texture of this wine with its good concentration of fruit, mineral, and colour. – Kim Spence, national beverage director Moxie’s and Chop Steakhouse

8 January February 2015 | The Tomato

White Blends 2012 Wayne Gretzky Okanagan The Great White, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $14.

A modern blend of primarily Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling with a bit of Chard, Pinot Gris and Semillon in the mix. The result? An easy-going drop, mediumbodied with honeyed-citrus flavours; a fabulous popcorn and a movie wine.

– Mary Bailey, AIWS, sommelier

Riesling 2012 St. Urbans-hof Estate Old Vines Riesling, Mosel, Germany, $14.

Germany reigns supreme with this captivating and pretty example of riesling. Crisp acidity, tart fruits, and excellent minerality from start to finish. – Matt Browman, operations manager, Highlander Wines and Spirits

Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio 2013 Poplar Grove Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $14.

The top Gris in the 2013 Alberta Beverage Awards as well as this year’s competition, judges loved the balance of fruit and texture from Poplar Grove. – Erica Tocco

Sauvignon Blanc 2012 J. Lohr Carol's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, California, $20.

From the warm St. Helena district of the Napa Valley comes this creamy-textured, complex Sauvignon displaying green gooseberry, grapefruit, and passion fruit. – Alex Good, sommelier, Merlo Vinoteca

Chardonnay 2012 Poplar Grove Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $15.

Tropical fruits led the way here, with stone fruit, melon, and citrus and a long, almost delicate finish. – Jackie Cooke owner/ sommelier Avec Bistro

Tied with 2011 Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $22.

Citric and crisp with lemon curd and lemon pie notes along with yellow apple and a touch of vanilla. Fresh and clean, a nice glass. – Tom Firth, Cowtown Wine

RED WINES Pinot Noir 2011 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand, $32.

Lush and juicy, it has earthiness and dried herbs on the nose with spicy red fruit on the palate. An excellent accessible wine that bridges the gap between the Old and New world. – Darren Fabian, sommelier Alloy Restaurant and Candela

Malbec 2013 Tilia Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, $10.

The category champion Tilia did a lovely job highlighting Malbec’s floral, dark fruit, and refreshing acid qualities.

– Brad Royale, wine director, Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts

Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Cameron Hughes CAM Collection Lake Country Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake Country, California, $23 All the cedar, cherry, and cassis flavours one could want with firm tannins, spice box, and tobacco.

Great cab all around. – Nathalie Gosselin, chief experience director, Vine Styles

Bordeaux blends 2009 Mascota Vineyards Unanime, Argentina, $12.

Tight and full-flavoured with blueberries, cherry, and perfume notes.

Tannins are full, but balanced against the juicy fruits. – Tom Firth

Syrah/Shiraz 2012 Harcourt Valley VineyardsHeathcote Shiraz, Australia, $22.

Bursting with blackberries and black pepper, dried herb, and violets, judges loved the fine balance and long finish from this delicious shiraz. – Tom Firth

Rhone Blends 2012 Yalumba The Strapper GSM, Australia, $17.

A blend of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mataro to pull out the best of big fruit, earth, and spice. Tasty and quaffable. – Jackie Cooke

Red Single Varietal 2011 Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $30.

Cabernet franc is making waves in the Okanagan with well-made examples popping up all over.

Look for cherry fruits, pepper, perfume, and a decent tannin presence. Poplar Grove’s is drinking very well now.

– Matt Browman

Other Red Blends 2012 Casillero Del Diablo Devil's Red, Chile, $13.

This gem, Syrah with Carmenere and Cabernet sauvignon, has big fruits with plenty of herb and spice to balance the tannins. Great for the barbecue or chilling out on a cooler evening. – Tom Firth

Merlot 2010 Poplar Grove Merlot, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $20.

Bursting with dark fruits, spice, and tannin, this is a new classic from the Okanagan. Drinking well now and can also improve over two –five plus years. – Erin Chipchura, sommelier Co-op Edmonton

Rose 2013 Chapoutier Tavel Beaurevoir, Rhone, France, $19.

The wine has the deeper ruby colour typical of Tavel, aromas of pepper and ripe cherry, tasting of red stone fruits, with fresh acidity and a hint of tannic structure. The Beaurevoir is delicious with game birds such as duck or pheasant, Thanksgiving turkey or serve with a charcuterie board. – Mary Bailey 2010 Torres Gran Coronas, Spain, $15.

Great varietal character of cherry and cedar with cassis and tobacco. The

addition of a little Tempranillo gives it a little added complexity.– Tom Firth

BEST OF ITALY 2010 Talamonti Tre Saggi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy, $13.

A great bottle from Abruzzo packed with sour cherry and some firm-ish tannins. With lush floral tones and a bit of earthiness, it shines with game meats or cheese.– Tom Firth

Locally made

CHEF GEAR A hat for every head.

Tied with 2010Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico DOCG, Tuscany, Italy, $18.

Here’s a wine that, vintage over vintage, has stood the test of time and has delivered authenticity and quality year after year.

It’s a great buy in Tuscan Sangiovese showing bright fruit, spice, cedar, dark cocoa, and dusty tannins. – Alex Good

FRUIT AND HONEYBASED WINES Fieldstone Strawberry-Rhubarb Fruit Wine NV, Alberta, Canada, $18.

The sweetness of the strawberry is balanced by the rhubarb with bright, clean flavours start to finish. Serve chilled on the deck or patio for best results. – Tom Firth

14536 - 115 Ave. • 780.420.6700 info@chefs-hat.com • www.chefs-hat.com

bonjour Try our new Ancient Grain Purple Wheat Bread with cranberry and walnut. It’s delicious and nutritious.

FORTIFIED WINES Rubin Garling Stradivari Red Dessert Wine NV, Ciumai, Moldova, $21.

There was no denying the rich fruit, sweet and spice, and floral/herb characters, and above all, this wine had some excellent balance. – Tom Firth

8612-99 Street 780.433.5924 www.bonjourbakery.com

DESSERT AND SWEET WINES 2012 Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $50.

I still believe that Riesling makes the best icewine and this is an elegant and noteworthy example. Bright citrus and stone fruits, all the sweetness of icewine adding texture and hitting all those sweet spots in the mouth, and some excellent acids bring balance.

Delicious. – Tom Firth Where to buy: These wines are available at better wine shops across the province. If out of stock your merchant would be happy to recommend a similar wine. All prices are approximate.

The Tomato | January February 2015 9

BEST THINGS TO EAT OR DRINK

IN EDMONTON

2015

A C C E P T I N G E N T R I E S J A N U A R Y 5 - 2 3 AT T H E T O M AT O . C A

GM Ad FINAL December,14 2014.pdf

WInter Picnic continued from page 6

when squeezed (add a bit more water if necessary). Do not overmix. Form dough into a ball, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (or overnight).

to make a slurry. Whisk in the rest of the cocoa powder, the sugar and milk, whisking constantly until the mixture starts to give off steam. Take off the heat and add vanilla. Pour into a thermos while piping hot.

Boozy Hot Chocolate

Preheat oven to 400ºF. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough to ⅛-inch thickness. With a large round cookie cutter or a glass, cut out eight 6to 7-inch rounds, rerolling scraps where necessary. Place ½ cup sausage mixture off-centre and fold over filling to form half-moons. Crimp edges firmly to seal using a fork, or with your thumbs. Place pies on baking sheets and brush with egg wash. Make little meatballs with any leftover filling and cook at the same time.

Bourbon Manhattan Tea

Cut a small vent in each pie and bake until golden and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating sheets halfway through. Let cool slightly on a wire rack.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 8 hand pies.

Classic Hot Chocolate You could use more sugar if desired but don’t leave out the vanilla. Due to some trick of the taste buds, the addition of vanilla makes it more chocolatey. Feel free to melt in a few squares of high quality chocolate near the end, or to add natural mint extract for minty hot choc.

6-8 T unsweetened cocoa powder, divided 2

T tablespoons sugar

pinch salt

6

c milk or a mixture milk and cream

1

t vanilla extract

Place 1 T cocoa powder in a pot over medium heat and whisk in 1 T milk

M

Thank you for making our first year a success!

See you again soon!

Y

CY

CMY

K

c steeped cherry tea

4

T sugar, simple syrup or honey

4

measures bourbon

7:19 PM

MY

Follow the method above, then whisk in your choice of alcohol (Bailey’s, rum, cognac, Canadian whisky, Sambuca, cherry Luxardo, a combo of Grand Marnier and brandy) near the end.

Whisk for about a minute or so to lose the overt alcohol taste, leaving behind a warm glow to pour into the thermos.

4

2014-12-15

CM

Makes 6 portions.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high. Add sausage and cook, until browned, about 5 minutes.

Drain if it looks very oily, leaving some moisture and oil in the pan. Add onion and cook until translucent, about 6 minutes. Add kale/chard and cranberries and cook until kale/chard is almost tender, about 5 minutes. The mixture should be fairly dry, not soupy. Remove from heat and season.

C

1

Mix together over heat and pour into a thermos while hot.

@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228

www.glassmonkey.ca

5842-111 Street

DIFFTF t XJOF CFFS t FTQSFTTP

Cozy up on Valentine's Day with a Four Course Set Menu Saturday February 14 First seating: 5:30 - 8:30 | Second seating: 9:00 - Close | Reservations Required Also available:

Gift Boxes with Cheese & Chocolate Pairings 10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG

Makes 4 servings.

The Birkie Break Edmonton’s 2014 Signature Winter Drink by Josh Hockin.

3 oz double strength brewed coffee (35 grams to 8oz of water) 1 oz Zacapa 23 or other sweet dark rum 1

oz spiced syrup, recipe follows

twist orange rind

Mix all ingredients together and garnish with orange rind. Drink while hot.

Spiced syrup Add 10 grams of cinnamon bark, 5 grams of green cardamon seeds and 5 grams of allspice to 2 c water. Allow mixture to steep at room temperature for 2 hours, then pour through fine mesh strain into a pot. Add 2 T of freshly grated ginger root and 10 T dark molasses sugar and simmer on low heat for 1 hour.

Cool, then strain through fine mesh strainer.

Makes 1 Birkie Break.

Fine Wines by Liquor Select Fine Wines | Exceptional Staff | Private Tasting Room Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen.

8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com

A VA L E N T I N E S E V E N T F O R T H E K I D S K OT TAG E F O U N DAT I O N TICKET

S

$100

Enjoy hundreds of wines, silent auction, live jazz, elegant food pairings and a chocolate buffet.

Friday, February 6, 2015 at 7pm – 10pm at the Delta Edmonton South Hotel and Conference Centre

For tickets www.kidskottage.org or call 780-448-1752

The Tomato | January February 2015 11

nk i r D d&

o o F to

a m o T The

n e h c t i K

Kitchen Design Awards Submissions Deadline April 29, 2015

Winners will be feaured in the July/August 2015 issue of The Tomato and online at thetomato.ca and in all press releases and materials related to TKDA

Food

beef (ok, it was from my mom), we made big pots of chili and golden sweet cornbread. Another day we had heaps of cauliflower and we prepared cauliflower rice. I was skeptical as to whether they would like it but they were openminded, and mostly curious to see how in the heck I was going to make rice out of cauliflower; they played along and in the end we all agreed it was pretty tasty. It doesn’t seem to matter what the end result is of our culinary efforts; what matters is we are working together, talking, learning and sharing. That seems to be reason enough to keep them coming back.

k n i r &D

I handed over the lunch cook position at Highlands Junior High to the very capable Teresa Bradley, who worked with me in the kitchen at Culina Highlands. I still cover lunch shifts at the school when I can and try to keep Teresa stocked up with produce and spices and anything else I can get my hands on to help make her job easier.

It’s much more challenging this year because the number of students coming down for lunch each day has nearly doubled. What helps is the sweetest bunch of junior high students who enthusiastically show up each day to help serve. They manage the high volume by setting themselves up as an assembly line and, with firm, clear voices, encourage the students to ‘take your lunch and move on so we can serve everyone’ which can, depending on the day, come across as cheeky, sarcastic or humorous. They’re serving their peers and instinctively they seem to know how to get the job done right from the start.

n e h c t i K

Th

Finalists notified by Kitchen Design Awards May 29, 2015

12 January February 2015 | The Tomato

Cooking with Kids

o t a m e To

The Tomato Food & Drink

thetomato.ca

The Lunch Lady

It’s a new calendar year, yet we are already halfway through the school year.

The Tomato Food & Drink Submissions open: March 2, 2015

n g i Des

s d r Awa

n g i Des

I don’t get to see the kids each day as I did last year, so in October I started a casual, go-with-the-flow kind of after school cooking club. We meet on Tuesdays in the Home Ec lab. A handful of kids show up (usually the same darling group of kids that help at lunch). We adopt leftover produce or ingredients that need to be used up and we just…cook. The first day, with donated frozen berries bulging from the freezers we baked blueberry muffins and made some rather bland-tasting smoothies. The following week, using a generous anonymous donation of

s d r a w A

Well, the word spread quickly in our Highlands neighbourhood and one thing led to another. The next thing I knew I was hosting an afterschool cooking class for several kids ranging from eight to 12 years old from Virginia Park Elementary School, the school my daughters attend. Not surprising to me, I also had two students from Highlands Junior High volunteer as my assistants.

At the start of the class we doublewrapped large white aprons around their tiny bodies, guided them to the handwashing station and informed them of the menu, receiving only one groan with the mention of salad. First up: romaine salad with Gala apples, candied pecans, white cheddar and a creamy, sweet, lemony dressing. Everybody chopped lettuce, grated cheese and measured and whisked the ingredients together for the dressing. They watched me make the candied pecans and sampled so many we had to make another batch. Fine by me.

Now that my little garde manger cooks have mastered the art of preparing cold food we were ready to move on to the entrée, handmade gnocchi — light and fluffy little pillows of potato dumplings.

Cindy Lazarenko

They measured cups of flour, cracked eggs and scooped out the flesh of baked potatoes. The next thing we knew we had a soft, pliable dough which proved to be irresistibly enjoyable to work with because, unlike Play-Doh, they knew they would eventually be allowed to eat it. I quickly demonstrated how to roll, slice and flick, and before long, each student had a pan of their own handmade dumplings ready for the plunge.

They finished the gnocchi with butter, a bit of tomato sauce and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano, then gathered at the table and indulged.

These are just a few examples of the countless ways we can cultivate the love

of good food with our children and have a deliciously good time doing it. A fun, positive experience in the kitchen will almost guarantee even the pickiest of eaters will sample new foods. My non salad-loving student commented “it’s pretty good. It’s sweet. I like it.”

I love how proud these kids are to pack up the leftovers to take home to their families. If only they were as excited about doing the clean up afterwards.

Cindy Lazarenko is the chef/owner of OnOurTable, a volunteer at Highlands Junior High in the school lunch program, and a co-worker with her brother at Culina Catering.

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Recipe adapted from thekitchn.com

1

head cauliflower

6-8 pieces thick-sliced bacon, optional 2

large eggs

1

T minced ginger

3

cloves garlic, minced

2

carrots, diced (about 1 cup)

1

c corn, fresh or frozen

½ c frozen peas 4

green onions, thinly sliced

grease, reserving the grease. If not using bacon, place 1 teaspoon canola oil in the pan.

Place the pan back over medium-high heat. Whisk the eggs and pour them into the skillet. Quickly scramble the eggs. Transfer the eggs to a cutting board and roughly chop into pieces.

Wipe the skillet clean and warm 1 tablespoon of bacon grease or vegetable

¼ c cashews or almonds

oil over medium-high heat. Add the

2

ginger and garlic, and sauté until

T soy sauce

Cut the cauliflower into florets, discarding the tough inner core. Working in batches, pulse the cauliflower in a food processor until it breaks down into ricesized pieces. You should have 5 to 6 cups of cauliflower rice.

Cook the bacon in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crispy. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel to drain.

Once cooled, roughly chop into pieces.

Drain off all but a teaspoon of bacon

fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the carrots and sauté until crisp-tender, 2 minutes. Stir the corn, peas and the cauliflower rice into the pan, mixing the ingredients thoroughly.

Lower the heat to medium, cover the pan and cook until the cauliflower is tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Uncover and stir in the bacon, eggs, green onions, nuts and the soy sauce. Taste and add more soy sauce to taste. Serve immediately.

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The Tomato | January February 2015 13

Jennifer Crosby

What not to eat when you’re expecting The night I told my husband we were going to be parents was also the first time he had to eat my dinner.

We were celebrating our news at the just-opened Hart’s Table restaurant in Terwillegar, scanning a menu of favourites like duck confit poutine, tuna tataki, moules frites, antipasto and croque monsieur.

I knew pregnancy would change what and how I ate, but never could I have predicted how much. Of course it would mean a dry spell for this wine-lover. But what caught me off-guard was the long and diverse list I soon dubbed the ‘What Not to Eat When You’re Expecting’ list.

This list stretches into the far reaches of the kitchen pantry and across the broadest menu. And those recommendations vary between different health professionals, authorities, common practice and ‘what everyone says is OK.’ However, during this celebratory dinner I was just beginning to discover the depth of the conflict. An apology is owed to that night’s server for the endless questions and delays. We eventually ordered an appetizer kale and cheese dip that was both delicious and pregnancy-safe. We knew this because we insisted she find out exactly what kind of cheeses it contained and I quickly Googled ‘safe cheeses for pregnant women’ when we were alone with our menus again.

When our mains came, I excitedly cut into my croque monsieur. The first cut foreshadowed months of food-related struggle. I had forgotten to ask about the ham.

Some meats are off-limits to expectant mothers. Where did this ham — described as gammon ham on the menu — fit on the safety spectrum? Still in the secrecy zone, we couldn’t exactly ask. So I watched my husband enjoy what he reported to be a delicious sandwich, and my adventures in pregnancy eating began in earnest.

Because pregnant women have more delicate immune systems, foodborne illnesses like listeriosis or salmonella can have serious consequences — for mother and baby.

I carry around a mental list of stuff I can’t have, maybe.

Different sources dictate no cold cuts, no raw sprouts, no organ meats and no unpasteurized honey or apple cider. I’m told I

14 January February 2015 | The Tomato

should avoid smoked salmon, any meat that’s not fully cooked, most herbal tea, Caesar salad dressing, mussels, clams, cold pizza and limit canned tuna and ground flax. That’s in addition to the most widely cited limitations: soft or blue-veined cheeses, sushi and raw eggs.

Cheese and charcuterie pose two of the largest hurdles. If you only wanted to eat mass-produced cheddar and well-done meatloaf you’d be in the clear. Beyond that, Health Canada’s online resources are far from useful for foodies. One overview prescribes avoiding ‘non-dried deli meats’ in favour of ‘dried and salted deli meats.’ Safe examples are salami and pepperoni – but what about mortadella? Capricolla? Capricciosa? And most importantly, prosciutto?

Contradictions are everywhere. While Health Canada steers me toward dried and salted meats, the popular website Baby Center says to curtail cured meat, which it says is ‘also known as dried or salted meat.’

Cheese constitutes a similar conundrum. Pregnant women are told to avoid soft, raw cheeses. But what if the cheese is soft yet pasteurized, like the Brie and blue varieties at our local grocery store? Or hard yet unpasteurized?

A federal government website advocates avoiding soft cheeses like Brie even when pasteurized. The Mayo Clinic wants me to skip the Brie and blue unless pasteurized or made with pasteurized milk. A third recommended source, the Motherrisk tool through Toronto’s SickKids Hospital, endorses soft cheeses. My number one wish becomes discovering a definitive guide to cheese — a flow chart for expectant mothers.

When dining out we err on the side of caution, even when it means committing restaurant faux pas. At RGE RD, we repeatedly confess we’re not ready to order — then turn back to our smartphones. A dish including cheese from The Cheesiry catches my eye. The website text on my smartphone’s small screen shows the company produces both raw milk and pasteurized cheeses. It’s an inexact science. I look for an option I can be sure of.

At home, cooking methods can solve some dilemmas. Health Canada approves of certain meats if they are heated until steaming. It is a generally unappetizing thought until I realize this means crispy prosciutto should be safe. I broil up several strips to garnish a baked pasta — and eat most of it before the pasta makes it to the oven. I relate my victory to a doctor who asks, “Prosciutto, isn’t that cured?” Foiled again, maybe.

The same is said for certain cheeses — they are considered safe if heated until bubbling. Still, I choose to opt out of some beloved food events. No one wants to be the person at Indulgence or What The Truck pestering participants with, “I know it’s hot — but did you actually personally see that meat steam and that cheese bubble?”

I’m aware I sound paranoid and frankly, a little nuts. Pregnant women around the world eat all manners of food under all kinds of safety standards — or lack thereof. I could have done more research, been more persistent in tracking down answers. But growing a human turns out to be exhausting. And I’m hungry all the time.

My logical, analytical side wants simple, clear answers and can’t understand why there is not more agreement among authorities. Perhaps with the weight gain and cankles and insomnia, this is the thing I can control — the level of caution with which I’ll approach eating for nine months.

Midway through pregnancy and dreaming nightly of Italian Centre signature sandwiches, it’s time to meet my OB. Before I can even ask about conflicting food advice, he tells me with a smile, “don’t believe Dr. Google.” He points out our health systems have come a long way. And large companies have volume, which means product turnover. And no one — especially them — wants another listeria scare.

It gets easier once I can point to my growing belly as the reason for my many detailed queries. And eventually I come to a happy medium between my cravings, conflicting warnings and fulfilling food experiences. I keep my eye on the prize — our healthy, beautiful baby. And all of the things I’m going to eat as soon as she’s born.

I can’t wait to introduce her to a wonderful world of Brie, prosciutto and adventures in food.

Jennifer Crosby is on maternity leave from co-anchoring the Morning News on Global Edmonton. After the birth of their baby girl, her husband ducked out to retrieve another special delivery — an Italian Centre sandwich.

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Perhaps not surprisingly his advice on eating is in line with most general health recommendations: moderation.

But since my doctor can’t be on call for menu-specific questions 24/7, Google does become a voice among many.

My iPhone only needs the letters “can p-r-e...” typed into the Google app and the suggested searches come up: Can pregnant women eat sushi; eat shrimp; eat feta cheese; drink coffee…. the list goes on.

The Tomato | January February 2015 15

Beer Guy Beer League “In life, nothing is so delicious as anticipating that next hockey game,” wrote Bill Gaston. Sure, but what about anticipating that next beer?

Beer and hockey are great teammates.

As Gaston explains in Midnight Hockey, his book about oldtimers hockey, there’s a reason they call it beer league hockey.

Every stinky, sweaty dressing room is full of players there as much for the beer as for the glory of assisting on an empty netter.

My first beer memory is overlaid with watching Hockey Night in Canada on a Saturday night in the early seventies in the family rec room. My dad wasn’t much of a hockey fan but it was either the hapless Leafs on CBC or The Littlest Hobo on CTV. My dad wasn’t much of a beer drinker either, but he did give me good advice, noting that his Molson Export beer was an ale, not insipid lager. I didn’t like the sip I tried of his stubby of Export, but an aledrinker was born that night.

As to hockey, I only played a couple years as a kid before giving it up for skiing. But I grew up in small-town Ontario where long winters meant town life revolved around the arena. Hockey for the boys, figure skating for the girls, curling for the old people. Not playing hockey sometimes left me on the outs socially but in my teen years I became a beer hero. The Beer Store was the only place to buy beer in town. All the men who worked at the Beer Store were hockey coaches so knew almost every teenage boy in town – except me.

Thanks to this anonymity and my early facial stubble, I was the hero walking out of the store with a two-four of Blue or Canadian.

16 January February 2015 | The Tomato

I moved to Edmonton in 1981, and watching Wayne Gretzky and the Oilers during their Stanley Cup prime was a revelation. I came to understand hockey’s beauty. But from Northlands Coliseum then to Rexall Place today, hockey beer is terrible. Hockey is a conservative sport, slow to change, even with beer. As Bill Gaston wrote, “no fancy-assed designer beer belongs in a dressing room. It’s just wrong. Hockey bags should be checked for microbrew contraband.”

I asked Edmonton Oilers Captain Andrew Ference if things are different at the NHL level. “No,” he said, “the majority of the guys drink Coors Light or whatever. There are maybe a couple of guys on the team who are into craft beer.”

Ference is one of those guys.

A foodie and a craft beer fan, he looks for small, indie, organic restaurants when he’s on the road with the Oilers. Ference isn’t a big drinker but he enjoys trying new beers, rarely having the same one twice.

When he played for Boston, Ference had a grocery store near his place that was one-third beer. Boston’s Harpoon Brewery brewed a beer in honour of Ference, with him on the label, and when the Bruins won the Stanley Cup in 2011, he was able to drink his own beer from the Cup. Ference knows his beer, thanks in part to playing in the Czech Elite League during NHL lockouts. In 2012 he played for the team in České Budějovic, the home of Budvar, the original Budweiser. Here in Edmonton, Ference and I hope that the new downtown arena will serve craft beer, like other NHL arenas do.

How about it, Mr. Katz?

Peter Bailey

All-Star NHL Beer Starting Lineup Six all-star craft beer from the Canadian NHL cities (except Ottawa, which has yet to send its craft beer west). These beer are unrestricted free agents and can be drafted at good local beer stores such as Andrew Ference’s favourite, Sherbrooke Liquor.

Lundberg knows a thing or two about rice.

It’s been a part of their lives since 1937.

1995

2015

Half Pints Little Scrapper IPA, Winnipeg Jets On left wing, an aggressive American IPA. Like the Jets, Half Pints is a hard-working, underappreciated outfit toiling in semiobscurity on the great plains. But you don’t need analytics to understand that Little Scrapper is a fine IPA, bitter and punchy but approachable.

Alley Kat Full Moon IPA. Edmonton Oilers

Healthy food choices for smart eaters available at

At centre, a solid power forward. Like the Oilers, this classic has undergone a rebuild recently with Alley Kat going bigger, beefing up its flagship pale ale into an IPA (from 5 to 5.5 per cent alcohol and from 31 to 45 IBUs bitterness). This rebuild is a victory, maintaining Full Moon’s deliciousness but bumping its power up a notch.

Wild Rose IPA, Calgary Flames

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At right wing, a forceful American IPA, one of the first new-style IPAs in Canada back in the 1990s. But like the Flames, you can’t coast on past success. With beer drinkers’ palates now used to big, hoppy IPAs, Wild Rose re-tooled their IPA in 2013, bumping up the bitterness to 69 IBUs. A nice tweak to an Alberta classic.

Steam Whistle Pilsner, Toronto Maple Leafs On defence, a Czech-style pilsner brewed a stone’s throw from the Air Canada Centre, home of the venerable Maple Leafs. Like the Leafs, Steam Whistle harkens back to a simpler time when beer meant lager and Toronto won Stanley Cups. A crisp, tasty pilsner for a postgame thirst.

Bomber Pilsner, Vancouver Canucks On defence, a brawny Czech-style pilsner from a hip new Vancouver brewery. The Bomber brewers are “friends with a passion for playing hockey and savouring good beer,” starting the brewery from the bench of the Bombers Hockey Club. A quaffable lager perfect for the dressing room.

Unibroue La Fin du Monde, Montreal Canadiens Backstopping this all-star brew crew in goal is a classic from Chambly, across the river from Montreal. While the Canadiens were owned for years

by Molson Brewing and now by members of the Molson family, the class of the NHL deserves a classy beer like this big Trappist-style tripel.

Peter Bailey plays left wing (badly) for the mighty Division D Pylons, currently 13-1. He tweets as @Libarbarian.

The Tomato | January February 2015 17

Feeding People Authentic Italian flavors with a modern twist.

Everything local, fresh and made in house.

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Groceries to Go Are you a busy young professional who cares about where your food comes from, but don’t have the time to leisurely peruse the farmer’s market? Are you a member of a busy family with lots on the go, but still want to make local, organic and healthy food a priority? Are you mobility challenged and would like access to good, local food without having to leave your home?

Edmonton now has two services that deliver groceries to your door: SPUD and the Organic Box. The Organic Box (theorganicbox.ca) Danny and Miranda Turner opened the Organic Box in 2010. The Turners, organic cherry and apple farmers from Creston B.C., created the Organic Box because they felt that there was a community of people who wanted access to organic and local food year round. The Turners still farm, and have grown the Organic Box over the last five years, and now connects growers and producers to restaurants, businesses and the community.

“We’re more than an online delivery service,” says Danny. “The core of our business is helping farmers get their products to market, and the delivery service is just one means of directselling products to customers. We have a wholesale and packing division with a storage and processing space and we have delivery and pickup options for restaurants.”

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18 January February 2015 | The Tomato

The Organic Box website encourages customers to access information, such as whether the product is fair trade, Canadian-made or GMO free, as well as containing short producers profile, telling the story behind the farm.

“Each product is vetted by our grocery team to meet our strict standards,” says Danny. “When a producer says they’re organic, we need to see the certification from the Canadian Organic Regime.

Our definition of local means that the

people who grow the food own their land, pay their workers a fair wage, and that the profits stay in that community, whether that’s in Edmonton, in B.C. or in Peru. We focus on sourcing products from here first, and if a product is out of season, we will try and extend the season by freezing fresh berries, for example.”

Turner explains that should a conventional producer want to supply the Organic Box rather than being turned away he will help that producer move towards organic production.

“For example, someone who makes tortilla chips might approach us; however, they don’t use organic flour,” says Danny. “Rather than turning them away we will help connect them with an organic corn flour supplier because we want to grow the industry.”

As for selection, the Organic Box offers only the best items from a category.

“When you go to a grocery store today,” says Danny, “you have to choose from hundreds of different varieties of potato chips. At the Organic Box, we pick out the best local and organic products from that aisle and provide it to our customers.”

The Organic Box’s delivery schedule could make it difficult to accommodate customers’ delivery preferences, but if a customer requires their order to be delivered on a different day, they offer an express service at an additional cost.

The Organic Box believes that “we need to be conscious of where our food comes from and act as stewards of our planet so that future generations can live healthier lives.” In order to meet that commitment, they’ve teamed up with Bullfrog Power and Carbon Farmer to become carbon neutral. The process involves understanding and measuring, reducing and offsetting their carbon footprint, by changing their warehouse lights from florescent to LED for example.

“We have an agreement with Carbon Farmer to contract the trees in an Edmonton Area Land Trust Reserve (EALT), using that as our offset for the next couple of years,” says Danny.

Jacquie Lycka SPUD (SPUD.ca) SPUD (Sustainable Produce, Urban Delivery) is the new kid on the block, having just set up shop in Edmonton.

The vision was an online delivery service to give busy people the opportunity to get quality, healthy, local and organic products without having to take time out of their day to go to the store.

SPUD started in the USA and expanded to Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton.

The CEO, David Van Seters, was born in Edmonton, and with our relentless winters and the rise in interest in local food, SPUD saw a great business opportunity.

At SPUD, customers pay for items individually. As for cost, Corbin Bouree, managing director of SPUD in Edmonton explains, “We’re very comparable to Blush Lane or Planet Organic. For any products that we carry that come from the farmer’s markets, you won’t pay more.” Bouree also finds that customers who use the service feel they spend less because they can more

easily plan ahead by scanning the fridge before placing an order and are not tempted with in-store impulse buys.

SPUD has very strict criteria their vendors must follow to be able to supply their customers, including practising sustainable growing methods, having a commitment to the local community, and being GMO-free. They bring in third-party auditors and regulatory agencies to ensure that the criteria are met. If not, those vendors are no longer welcome to supply customers through SPUD. SPUD’s definition of local is products must be grown or made within 800 kilometres of the warehouse. When local products are not available or out of season, SPUD will source them outside of the local region. Items that do not grow in Edmonton, like bananas or avocados, are sourced from the closest geographical location to us.

Just like the Organic Box, using SPUD’s online store is simple. Customers can browse their categories and click on specific products for more information.

Each product page offers details such as whether it’s GMO, wheat and gluten free, and provides a short write-up about the producer.

SPUD takes measures to ensure that their products are perfect when they arrive at their customers’ doors, such as using insulated bins and refrigerated trucks, and packing frozen items in dry ice.

“When the product is not perfect, SPUD has a 100 per cent money back guarantee,” says Corbin. “Another benefit is that customers don’t need to sign a contract or a membership to use SPUD. This is something our customers really appreciate.”

According to Corbin, the disadvantage to shopping with SPUD is that with online shopping, a customer doesn’t get to meet the farmer at the market or smell the fresh bread at the bakery.

With that in mind, SPUD only delivers between Tuesday and Friday, so whether you value or loathe the shopping

experience, you can have the choice between both worlds.

Sustainability is at the very foundation of how SPUD functions. (It’s in their name, after all.) From purchasing postconsumer paper for business operations to tracking food miles on products, SPUD doesn’t pay it lip service. They are B Corporation Certified, meaning that they’ve undergone a long operational audit process to prove their commitment to environmental, economic and social sustainability. “It’s all about making conscious decisions throughout our entire business process,” says Corbin.

Whether you’re a hard-working young entrepreneur, a busy mom or a housebound senior, we are fortunate to have two choices that deliver local and organic food right to the door.

Jacquie Lycka spends her Saturdays shopping local and Sundays crafting culinary concoctions in her Parkallen home kitchen. She’s got a freezer full of harvest fruit, and she’s not afraid to use it.

The Tomato | January February 2015 19

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Ryan O’Flynn, executive chef Westin Edmonton and 2014 Gold Medal Plates gold medalist In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era — he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.

Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist.

Ryan O’Flynn has an impressive resume.

Years cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe; a stage in Gordon Ramsay’s kitchen where cooks with less grit left halfway through service (often leaving expensive knives behind, they were in such a hurry to get away); exec chef of an important kitchen at 29 years old, the accolades go on and on.

Were we surprised when he popped up as exec chef at the Westin? Perhaps, but thrilled to suggest that he might want to consider competing at Gold Medal Plates. Perhaps competing is in his blood — his father Maurice O’Flynn was the guiding force behind the culinary teams that brought Canada to international prominence a few decades ago.

Ryan is a chef to watch. This friendly, down to earth, hard-working chef has a vision of quality and we fully expect his contribution to have a lasting effect on our culinary scene.

Hometown?

Edmonton.

Years cooking?

12-14.

Where would you like to live?

Barcelona is the perfect city — food, wine, culture, people. The smell, the feel, the nightlife, the architecture and the siestas.

20 January February 2015 | The Tomato

Your favourite food and drink?

I’ll drink anything Romanee Conti. I don’t want to eat anything out of season or anything from Monsanto.

What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking?

Eating.

What do you most appreciate in your friends?

A good sense of humour, honesty.

Your favourite qualities in a dish?

Getting it right.

A cook?

Dedication.

A wine?

If I’m eating, I like a wine with a good balance of tannins. If it’s just to enjoy, a wine with lower alcohol and a great nose.

Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)?

I’d like to eat by myself.

Who would cook?

Gordon Ramsay app, Heston Blumenthal main course, Jordi Roca (El Cellar de Can Roca) for a crazy dessert.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

The f word from being in the kitchen my whole life. Did you season that? Do it right or do it twice. No you can’t leave early.

Current culinary obsession/ exploration?

Figuring out what we can do here at the Westin that keeps me both passionate and successful.

Meaningful/crazy cooking experience?

I had a bit of savings and went on a three-month eating tour of Michelin

star restaurants — in Dubai, Wales and London, France, Monaco, St Jean, Cap Ferrat, Italy, probably 150-200 stars in all. In some I was able to work in the kitchen for a few days in exchange for dinner. These are 18 hour days — the dedication of the European chef is amazing.

It was the best culinary experience so far in my life.

I finished it off in Mexico and Cuba, rented a scooter in Havana.

One place had only sous vide in the back, didn’t expect that. The food was classic dishes, nothing pretentious, just really, really good.

Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you?

Becoming the executive chef at the Milestone, a five star hotel, and flagship of the group. We took it from one Rosette* to three Rosettes. I was 29 years old.

Mentors?

My Dad.

Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food?

A pint of Guinness.

Philosophy?

You can’t have a great restaurant without great fundamentals — produce, meats and passion.

What’s next?

We’re bringing the quality of the banquets at the hotel up to restaurant standard, starting from scratch. The biggest transition is 80 per cent of our offerings are made in house, even ice cream, compared to about 60 per cent previously. Meats are aged, fowl are brine-cured and fish comes in fresh and whole. We’re getting beautiful East Coast cod and pickerel from the northern lakes as long as my arm. We’re serving things like confit duck leg and frisee lardon salad to 1,000 people. It’s a real transition in quality.

* The AA Rosette program is similar to the CAA Five Diamond Awards, highly coveted awards for a dining room experience in a hotel.

The Tomato | January February 2015 21

from the After the bursting cupboards and a refrigerator-so-full-the-door-doesn’tshut of the holidays, most of us spend January peering into that same fridge and thinking ‘there’s nothing to eat.’

To make porridge: Place 1 cup cooked barley in a saucepan with ½ cup milk or water. Add honey if desired and dried fruit and nuts. Cook for about 15 minutes until the porridge is creamy.

...a packet of dried mushrooms

But what about those bits of cheese in the freezer, the bin full of slightly limp carrots and onions, the boxes of pasta and rice and the dried chilies ready to expire? The cans of tomatoes, the leftover cranberries, nuts and various packets of frozen veg.

…a tin of rice

1

packet dried porcini mushrooms

5

c water

3

T butter

2

T olive oil

2

T onion chopped very fine

Time for some culinary sleight of hand.

Dried fruits and nuts go into smoothies or over breakfast cereal; those frozen packets of veg do make a good stock and oven risotto is actually really easy to make.

The bonus? You’ll have room for the oils and vinegars and fancy salts people gave you for Christmas.

Oven Risotto with Kale and Squash This is the dish to make when you can’t stand around with a glass of wine and stir the risotto.

The texture is not quite as unctuous but it’ll do, especially on a busy weeknight.

2

T canola oil

2

shallots, diced

3-4 fresh thyme leaves, chopped fine 1½ c Arborio rice kosher salt and freshly-ground black pepper ½ c dry white wine

...a bag of barley Belila (or barley for breakfast) Barley’s nutty flavour and rich texture makes it ideal for breakfast porridge. Cook a large batch Sunday night and pop in the refrigerator or freezer in single servings. In the morning add milk, some dried fruit, chopped nuts, (pistachios and cherries are a lovely combination) and you’re off. Pot barley takes longer to cook than pearl but it has more fibre. You can also do this with farro if you have a bag of that hanging around in the pantry.

1 c pot barley (also known as Scotch barley) 3

c water

½ t salt

Cook on low heat covered, for about 45 minutes, until the grains are tender, yet still a bit chewy and the water is absorbed.

Makes 6 cups cooked barley.

22 January February 2015 | The Tomato

1 medium butternut squash chopped, medium dice (about 4 cups diced), or use diced sweet potato or chunky carrot slices 4

c stock (vegetable or chicken)

1 bunch kale, tough bottom stems removed, cut into bite-sized pieces (or use swiss chard) ¼ c or so grated Parmigiano or Grana Padano

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Heat oil over medium-high in a medium Dutch oven.

Add shallots and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until opaque, about 3 minutes. Season.

Add wine and cook, stirring, until completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.

Add diced squash and broth and bring to a boil. Stir in kale. Cover and bake until rice is tender and most of liquid is absorbed, about 20-30 minutes. Give it a toss, check for seasoning, stir in some of the grated cheese and pass the rest at the table.

Mushroom Risotto

1 c chopped fresh mushrooms (optional) 2

c arborio or canaroli rice

kosher salt and freshly-ground black pepper ⅓ c freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese

Bring water and dried mushrooms to a boil in a medium pot. Reduce heat, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain stock and chop the mushrooms into a fine dice. Reserve mushrooms. Return stock to the pot and keep warm.

Meanwhile melt 2 T of the butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.

Cook fresh mushrooms until the liquid is released and they are golden in colour, about 5 minutes. Reserve.

Place the rest of the butter and the oil in a large pot with the onion and sauté over medium-high heat until the onion is translucent. Add the rice and stir quickly to coat each grain. Add ½ cup of broth and stir rice until the liquid is absorbed. Add more broth, ½ cup at a time, always stirring until the stock is absorbed.

When rice has cooked for about 10 minutes, add the reconstituted mushrooms. Keep adding broth and stirring until there is no more left, about 20 minutes. Taste the rice, it should be soft and yielding on the outside with a hint of resistance at the very centre with no starchiness. If not, add a bit of water and continue to stir.

When the rice is done, remove risotto from the heat. Grind some pepper, add a bit of butter and grated parmesan, and toss quickly to coat the grains. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to a platter, top with the fried mushrooms if using and pass the cheese.

Serves 6.

…too many lentils Red Lentil Peasant Soup with Sizzling Mint Butter I love lentils. In restaurants. When I attempt to cook them at home, such as placing a nice piece of sablefish on a bed of green lentils or with roast chicken, they come up short. Not enough duck fat perhaps; hence the many boxes and bags of lentils in the pantry. So, back to the chefs — let them figure it out. Love this savoury soup with the flavours of Turkey in every spoonful, and the tender little Puy lentils with Middle Eastern spices.

Adapted from Turquoise, a chef ’s travels in Turkey, by Greg and Lucy Malouf, Chronicle Books.

2

T olive oil

1

large onion, finely diced

1

carrot, finely diced

2

cloves garlic, finely chopped

1

t ground cumin

1

t hot paprika

1½ t sweet paprika 1

T tomato paste

1

c red lentils, rinsed

1½ quarts chicken stock ¼ c fine bulgur or kishke sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper 4

T unsalted butter

½ t dried mint

lemon wedges to serve

Heat the oil over low heat in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir the

onion, carrot and garlic in the hot oil; add the cumin, hot paprika and 1 teaspoon of the sweet paprika. Saute for 5-8 minutes, until the vegetables soften.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook for a minute. Add the lentils and chicken stock and bring to the boil. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring from time to time.

When the lentils have broken down and become creamy, add the bulgur. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for 10 minutes.

When ready to serve, ladle the soup into warmed serving bowls. Quickly heat the butter in a small frying pan until it foams, then add the remaining sweet paprika and the dried mint. Swirl the sizzling butter into each bowl of soup and serve with wedges of lemon.

Serves 6-8.

minutes, then add the tahini, lemon juice, about a ¼ cup water, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper.

Turn down the heat to medium and cook gently, stirring for a few minutes more until hot and thickened. Roughly mash the lentils with a potato masher so that some are broken up and you get a thick, porridge-like consistency.

Spread the lentil mixture on a platter; run a fork through to make a wavy pattern. Scatter on the sliced onion, the remaining coriander and a drizzle of oil. Serve warm with pita and the hardboiled eggs alongside.

Adapted from Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi.

This dish is similar to hummus and equally satisfying.

Black Beans and Rice

1 c dried kidne y beans, soaked overnight and drained 6

c water

2

cloves garlic

1¾ c coconut milk

c Puy lentils

1

2

T unsalted butter

3 green onions, thinly sliced, plus

2

T olive oil, plus extra to finish

3

cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1

t ground cumin

2

sun-dried tomatoes chopped

4

T tahini paste

2

T lemon juice

salt and black pepper

½ small red onion, peeled and sliced very thin 2

eggs, hard-boiled and quartered

Rinse the lentils if necessary, but don’t soak. Bring a medium pan of water to a boil. Add the lentils and cook for 15-20 minutes until completely cooked, drain and set aside.

Put the butter and oil in a large sauté pan and place on a medium-high heat.

Once the butter melts, add the garlic and cumin, and cook for a minute. Add the tomato, coriander and the cooked lentils. Cook, stirring, for a couple of

Friday 11 - 8 PM Saturday 11 - 7 PM Sunday 12 - 5 PM

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…full of beans

1

1 small bunch coriander leaves,

Monday 11 - 7 PM Tuesday 11 - 7 PM Wednesday 11 - 7 PM Thursday 11 - 8 PM

Serve 2-4

Cheap and cheerful and delicious.

Crushed Puy Lentils with Tahini and Cumin

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T canola olive or bacon drippings

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Modern, Authentic Malaysian Cuisine

more for garnish 1 Scotch bonnet pepper, chopped, or use jalapeno for less heat 3

sprigs fresh thyme

global fusion restaurant

1½ c long grain rice kosher salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Place beans and garlic in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water.

Bring to simmer and cook until the beans are tender, about 1 to 1½ hours.

When beans are tender, stir in coconut milk, green onions, peppers, and thyme, and increase the heat to a boil. Stir in the rice, add some salt and pepper, cover the pot, lower the heat and cook until the rice is tender and has absorbed most of the liquid. Transfer to a large serving bowl, check seasoning and garnish with more sliced green onions.

Sherbrooke was Doing Beer Before Beer was Cool

Serves 6-8.

Please see “Pantry” on page 25

11819 St Albert Trail 780.455.4556 www.sherbrookeliquor.com

The Tomato | January February 2015 23

It’s a wrap!

Sponsors of Relish

To all the makers of reservations, heaters of water, cooks, chefs, foodies, wine lovers, beer geeks and cocktailists, thank you for making RelishFest 2014 a success.

To our sponsors, volunteers, and friends of Relish, we live in gratitude.

Friends of Relish

See you in autumn 2015 with another line up of savoury dramas, spicy comedies and food for thought documentaries.

La CitĂŠ Francophone

www.relishfilmfest.org The Cheesery

Reclaim Urban Farm

Sundog Organic Farm

Tangle Ridge Ranch

Pantry Continued from page 23

2

4 c brown stock (if don’t have use chicken or vegetable stock, or

Spicy Chickpeas Better than potato chips! Adjust the spice to suit your palate or even easier, toss with Brad’s BBQ Rub instead.

2 large cans chickpeas, rinsed, drained and dried on a kitchen

water) 6½-inch thick slices crusty bread, preferably pain au levain 6 generous slices melty cheese such as Gruyere.

2 T finely-grated grana cheese such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana

towel 2

T canola oil

1

t smoked paprika

½ t ground cumin

cayenne pepper to taste

kosher salt and freshly-cracked black pepper

zest of one lime

squeeze of fresh lime juice

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Combine all the ingredients but lime juice and zest in a bowl and toss to coat.

Season to taste. Place on a parchmentlined baking sheet in a single layer. Bake until crisp, 25 to 35 minutes, shaking the tray occasionally to toss the chickpeas.

Remove from the oven, drizzle with juice, place in a serving bowl and toss zest over.

Makes about 2 cups.

…bits of cheese French Onion Soup The recipe reads like way more trouble than it actually is. Think leftover cheese, some stock, some onions and an occasional pass by the stovetop. What results is culinary alchemy, rich caramelized onions, melty toasty cheese, all sorts of deliciousness — no wonder this soup is a classic.

My brother-in-law taught me the wisdom of the long and slow caramelization — most recipes call for 45 minutes only. Go the distance, it’s worth it in the end.

A salad and a glass of wine makes this bowl of soup dinner, especially if you’ve been out in the cold. ¼ c butter ¼ c olive oil 1

clove garlic

4

large yellow onions sliced

3

sprigs fresh thyme

2

bay leaves

1

c dry sherry* (or dry white wine)

t flour

Padano or Pecorino

Melt butter and oil with garlic in a large deep saucepan. Add onions, herbs, take out garlic. Cook slowly over low heat for an hour; add sherry. Cook for another hour, stirring occasionally.

The onions will be very soft and a deep golden brown colour. Season. Raise heat to medium; stir in flour and cook for about 5 minutes. Add broth and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally for about 30 minutes. Check for seasoning.

When ready to serve, toast bread slices on both sides under a broiler and reserve.

You want them to be dry, not soft in the middle.

Discard herbs and divide the soup into six oven-safe bowls on a baking sheet. If you have some of those some retro onion soup bowls with the handles, even better.

Place a toasted bread slice on top of each, and cover with the cheese slices, then sprinkle with the grated cheese.

Broil until cheese is melted, bubbly, and starting to deepen in colour, about 2 minutes. You could also hit it with a blow-torch (as in creme brulee) if you do that sort of thing.

5

slices bacon, cooked and crumbled

⅓ c mozzarella cheese 3

green onions, sliced thin

3

cloves garlic, minced

½ t sea salt 1

c steamed spinach, chopped

1

c breadcrumbs

3

jalapenos, chopped (optional)

1

t canola oil

In a large bowl, mix together cooked quinoa, bacon, eggs, cheese, green onion, garlic, salt, cooked spinach, and breadcrumbs; add jalapenos if desired.

Allow mixture to rest for a few minutes, it should be moist by not runny or too dry. Form patties, using about ⅓ of a cup of the quinoa mixture for each.

Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumlow heat. Fill, but don’t crowd, the pan with patties. Cover the pan and let them cook for 5-8 minutes until browned.

Flip and cook the other side for another 5-8 minutes until both sides are nice and brown. Eat warm with salsa. *To make from scratch: rinse ¾ cup of quinoa, place in a medium saucepan with

1½ cups of water. Allow to soak for 10 minutes. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce to a simmer. Cook until tender and liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

…leftover tequila Winter Margaritas This is the season for citrus — look for juicy Texas Red grapefruit and small, heavy limes chock-full of juice. ½ c blanco tequila 2

T triple sec

¼ c fresh lime juice ½ c fresh grapefruit juice lime wheels and chile salt for garnish: mix equal amounts of sea salt and ground chile pepper

Combine the tequila, triple sec and juices in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice and shake vigorously for 15 seconds.

Strain over ice into chilled rocks glasses rimmed with chili salt. Garnish with hardware grill lime. est. 1996

hardware grill est. 1996

Serves 6. * Look for Alvear’s Fino Montilla, found in most good wine shops.

hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

…oh right, quinoa Cheesy Bacon Quinoa Patties Adapted from a recipe by Sharman Hnatiuk, Passion for Pork in the AFMA cookbook From the Farm.

2 c cooked quinoa* (or ¾ cup uncooked quinoa with 1½ cups water) 4

eggs, whisked

seasonal prairie cuisine • the evolution of tradition www.hardwaregrill.com / 780.423.0969 / 9698 Jasper Ave also visit our newest downtown restaurant: tavern 1903 at alberta hotel

The Tomato | January February 2015 25

Wine Maven Every few months or so, sommelier Nicole Weinkauf and chef Daniel Costa hold a night called Prova — an intimate food and wine tasting where attendees explore a particular Italian region’s wine paired with typical dishes. The setting at Bar Bricco on a Sunday night is casual and easy, the wine and food top-notch. There are none scheduled for January or February so far, but when you do come across a Prova notice, book it, as they sell out quickly.

Keep your eye on Hahn Family Wines from Monterey California. The SLH 2012 Pinot Noir ($40) is hand-picked fruit from their Lone Oak, Smith, Doctor’s and Hook vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands, with fresh cherry, plum and all-spice notes and a lovely velvety texture. On a more everyday note — love the fragrant and spicy Grenache fruit in the Hahn GSM and the $20 price tag equally as much.

The star-studded tequila, Casamigos, created by George Clooney, Rande Gerber and Michael Meldman has officially launched in Alberta. Expect a small batch, ultrapremium tequila made from hand-selected 100 per cent Blue Weber agaves, grown in the rich red clay and cool climate of the Highlands of Jalisco. Both the blanco and the reposado are available in over 30 locations in Alberta and are featured in The Keg’s national cocktail program.

Sommelier Nicole Weinkauf of Bar Bricco and Prova.

Allessandro Lunardi at The Wine Room.

Alessandro Lunardi, director Frescobaldi Group, visited Edmonton last year to talk about the iconic Ornellaia and the other wines they produce, Le Serre Nuove and Le Volte. These delicious wines, affordable enough to drink every day, bring a little Ornellaia magic to the dinner table. The estate is in Maremma, which overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea near Alba. Maremma has become an important wine growing region in Tuscany, and is also home to another iconic Italian wine, Sassicaia.

More wine business news: Unwined opened a second shop in late fall, taking over the location at 203 Edmonton Centre, 780-421-0015; Jordan Lee has signed on with Crush Imports, and Valerie Albrecht is now with Enotri Wine Marketing.

26 January February 2015 | The Tomato

The high-end kitchen store with the in-store kitchen

From left to right: Jodh Singh, Select Resturant; Christian Chabirand, Prieure La Chaume; Jon Elson, Solstice Food.

Oenologist Christian Chabirand spent several years making Champagne which explains his masterful touch with chard and pinot in the Prima Donna blend. Now he considers himself more of a vine grower. A decade or so ago, he found a little island of chalk in the south Vendee, equidistant between the Loire Valley and the Medoc; a geographical oddity. He gambled on it being an excellent place to grow wine. The bet has paid off.

All-Clad: An original lasts a lifetime.

Featuring Stainless Steel, D5 and Copper core collections Sign up for weekly cooking classes Gift Cards also available! #550, 220 Lakeland Dr., Sherwood Park 780.464.4631 www.thepantree.ca @PanTreeKitchen

/ThePanTree

The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in a still white wine is an unusual blend. Rarely do we see these grapes together in a still wine, and from the Loire? It’s just not done. Christian gets away with this because, technically, from a French wine rules perspective, his estate isn’t in the Loire.

We’ll leave the French wine rules to the French wine police. We’re content to drink these unforgettable, vibrant, elegant, rich without heaviness, delightful examples of well-grown fruit, communicating their terroir without effort. Now, you’re saying that’s a lot for a wine to express. Yes it is, but the most interesting wines always have something to say.

Look for the luscious Prima Donna, the approachable Bel Canto; the well-aged 2008 Orpheo, and the exuberant Rigoletto in better wine shops.

Doug Hicks was introduced to fine wine while playing hockey in Europe, opening Crestwood Wines in 1994, after a 15-year pro-hockey career, three of them with the Edmonton Oilers. Fast forward to the present — after selling Crestwood to Satesh Narine and living in the Caribbean for three years, Doug is back with Hicks Fine Wines. “The opportunity to open a store in a beautiful new shopping centre in St. Albert was too good to resist,” he says, “I’m looking forward to getting to know new people and welcome my former clients.” Marcia Hamm (WSETLevel3) followed her love of wine into retail, and is now managing the store. Visit the website for information on upcoming tastings, special guests and events. Hicks Fine Wines, #109, 150 Bellerose Drive, St. Albert, 780-569-5000, hicksfinewines.com.

Juanita Roos (AIWS) has opened Color de Vino, a charming shop on east Whyte near the Unheardof Restaurant. It’s a family affair, Juanita’s Dad built most of the shelving, daughter Kelsey and son-in-law Ramon can be found in the shop most days helping customers. The selection of craft beers, spirits, and wine is well-curated with an emphasis on affordable, small-production selections. The store is arranged by colour, rather than the usual wine-by-country layout, which helps shoppers discover new tastes. 9606 82 Avenue, 780-439-9069, colordevino.ca

The Tomato | January February 2015 27

Kitchen Sink Restaurant Ramblings We are more than sad to see Tavern 1903 shuttered.

The owners (Larry and Melinda Stewart) were abruptly locked out of their restaurant and presented with a cancellation of their lease by the sub-landlord, December 5, in the thick of the holiday season. (Is that even legal?)

Besides depriving dozens of people of their livelihood, the action inconvenienced hundreds of customers who had to scramble to rebook holiday lunch and dinner plans, let alone events in the new year. On a personal note, The Tomato has had a business relationship with the Stewarts for almost two decades, and they have always worked with us in a straightforward, upstanding way.

The action taken by the sub-landlord was foul ball and a lousy way to treat members of the community.

The Glass Monkey (5842 111 Street, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) celebrates their first year anniversary with a reserve wine list with gems from Italy, Spain, Australia and France. Pair with their daily specials or the delish grilled flat iron steak with chimichurri, duck confit with chili and palm sugar glaze, and Moroccan-style braised lamb shank.

There will be beer and sausage, tart flambé and Gewürztraminer during The Marc Restaurant’s (9940106 Street, 100 Sterling Place, 780-429-2828, themarc. ca) annual Alsace Week, January 16-24. Bring your lederhosen and your beret. It’s great to see the Marc back on track after a damaging flood last year.

Blue Chair Cafe (9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861, bluechair.ca) is ideally suited to become Ritchie’s neigbourhood café, especially with news of breakfast and lunch service starting mid-January — coffee and baked goods at breakfast, and what owner Harold Wollin is calling simple home-cooked comfort lunch specials, meatloaf and the like.

Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com) It’s not too soon to be thinking Valentine’s Dinner at Cibo Bistro. Order off the northern Italian-inspired winter menu or indulge with savoury osso bucco for two.

Cavern (#2, 10169-104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca) offers a Valentine’s four-course set menu on Saturday, February 14, two seatings: 5:30-8:30pm and 9pm-close. Reservations are required.

Think Madison’s Grill (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780401-2222 unionbankinn.com/site/madisons_grill) for a romantic Valentine’s evening. Visit their website for up to the minute Valentine’s menus; the six-course dinner for two is $190, add wine pairings, $310.

28 January February 2015 | The Tomato

Bronze Gold Medal Plates medalist Lindsay Porter has signed on to run the kitchen at the still new El Cortez Tequila Bar and Kitchen (8230 Gateway Blvd, 780-760-0200, elcortezcantina.com). We’re supremely curious and look forward to new menus in late January.

Joe Rockwood is the new general manager of the Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street, 780-990-1938, wildfloweredmonton.com). It’s a homecoming of sorts, Joe opened the restaurant back in 2008. “I have renewed fervour for Wildflower,” he says about the flagship of the Lazia Group. “We are working toward a five diamond standard of anticipating guests needs and we want to create some warmth in the dining room. Richard has dined all over the world and knows what he wants.”

Exit stage right. Andrew and Rachel Borley along with several front of house personnel are no longer part of Woodwork (10132 100 Street, 780-757-4100, woodworkyeg.com). Mike Scorgie is now the sole proprietor of the popular restaurant.

One of our favourite chefs, Filliep Lament, now runs the kitchen at the revamped North 53 (10240 124 Street, 587-524-5353, north53.com) owned by Kevin Cam. Check it out, the food is great, the atmosphere is playful, and it’s open late!

Enjoy the best value lunch in town at Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426, cibobistro.com).

They reopen for lunch January 6, Tuesday-Friday, 11:30am-2pm. And look out for their new winter menu with dishes inspired by a new year’s trip to San Francisco.

wine tastings, happenings and events It’s not too late to enter your concoction in the Second Annual Winter Signature Drink Competition. Here’s the deal: craft a unique beverage (hot or cold, alcoholic or not) that signifies winter to you. It’s all part of the WinterCity Edmonton initiative encouraging us to embrace winter. See what’s entered already at facebook. com/WinterCityEdmonton. Contest wraps up January 31, so get measuring.

Kitchen by Brad (#101, 10130 105 Street, 780-7577704, kitchenbybrad.ca) offers a special evening with Bender wines, February 5. Details weren’t confirmed by our press time, visit kitchenbybrad.ca for all the deets.

Here’s a liquid way to celebrate Valentine’s Day, Winefest Edmonton, Friday, February 13, 7-10pm and Saturday, February 14, 2-5pm and 7-10pm. Attendees can even take advantage of the Sobeys Liquor store onsite.

Included in the ticket price: all tastings and samples, hors d’oeuvres, a festival guide and a complimentary wine glass. Tickets: celebratewinefest.com Seasoned Solutions Culinary Tour of New York, May 14 -18. Gail Hall’s fourth tour to the Big Apple includes Broadway, a cooking class, signature food experiences and accommodations at the Waldorf. Visit seasonedsolutions.ca to book.

Taste hundreds of wines, delicious hors d’oeuvres, and enjoy live jazz by Sandro Dominelli at Kid’s Kottage’s elegant Valentine fundraiser, For the Love of Wine, Friday, February 6, 7-10pm at the Delta Edmonton South. Tickets: $100/person, 780-448-1752. Sponsors include Color de Vino and Global Edmonton.

The Okanagan Food & Wine Writers Workshop, Food Bloggers of Canada and Tourism Kelowna have teamed up for Blog Your Way to Kelowna. The winner receives travel, accommodation and workshop registration fees for the 2015 Okanagan Food & Wine Writers Workshop. Competition closes January 31, foodwinewriters.com.

Want to learn lots more about your favourite cheeses?

Check out the Cavern’s (#2, 10169-104 Street, 780-4551336, thecavern.ca) Cheese School, Sunday January 25, from 2-4pm. The theme is Canadian Artisanal Cheese Meets Old World Wine.

Aligra Wine & Spirits (1423, 8882 170 Street Entrance 58, West Edmonton Mall, 780-483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com) tasting classes: Tuesday, January 13, Wine 101 & More, $45; Tuesday, January 27, A Winter Scotch Tasting, $45. Register online aligrawineandspirits.com/events.

product news The Cavern (#2, 10169-104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca) offers delightful Valentine’s gift boxes with artisanal cheese and Jacek chocolate pairings.

Amaranth Whole Foods Market (101 Riel Drive, St. Albert) in the Enjoy Centre, 780-651-7367 amaranthfoods.ca) stocks PB2, a peanut butter powder with all the flavour and texture of peanut butter with 85 per cent less fat. It’s ideal for traveling; also perfect for smoothies; two sizes, $6 and $11. A staff favourite is the Splendour Garden Cultural giftpack by the Canadian Organic Spice & Herb Company, containing six organically grown spice blends — 5 spice, garam masala, Italian seasoning, Jerk seasoning, Mexican blend, and curry powder, $30.

what’s new and notable cooking classes Kitchen by Brad (#101, 10130 105 Street, 780-757-7707, kitchenbybrad. ca) Cooking Classes: January 3, 6 and 27, Baba’s Cooking; January 8 and 10, Icelandic Fish; January 13, 17 and 29, Soup, Stew and Comfort Foods. All classes are $135/person. Love to cook and hang out with your friends? Think of creating a custom class with chef Brad Smoliak for a minimum of eight people, max 12, $135/person.

Barb’s Kitchen Centre (9766-51 Avenue, 780-437-3134, barbskitchen. com) cooking classes and product demo lineup. January 8, February 19, Breadmaking; January 15, February 26, Hearty Soups and Chowders; January 22, Rustic Whole Grain Breads; January 29, One Pot Meals; February 5, Cakes, Cookies and Muffins; February 12, Specialty Breads. Classes are $10/person, start at 6:30pm, and must be prepaid.

10816 82 Ave

Inside Knifewear

ESTABLISHED 2013

Seasoned Solutions (780-437-0761, seasonedsolutions.ca) now offers twohour demonstration classes: January 28, Comfort Food; February 10, Foods from the Heart $49.95/person. To register, gail@seasonedsolutions.ca The Pan Tree (220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631, thepantree.ca) class line up: January 7, Delicious Detox with chef Bianca

Osbourne; January 21, Knife Skills with chef Richard Toll; January 23, Robbie Burns Dinner with chef Richard Toll; February 10, Cooking for Your Love with chef Richard Toll; February 11, Gluten Free Breads with Natalie Pepin.

Register by phone 780-464-4631.

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.

Wine. Spirits. Beer. Specialty Items. Unique Gifts.

Your very own boutique liquor store, right inside West Edmonton Mall. We’re worth the trip.

10643 123 St.

West Edmonton Mall Inside Entrance 58 Beneath the Scotiabank Theatre Reserved Parking • 780.483.1033 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com @Aligrawine

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The Tomato | January February 2015 29

Nourishing Entertainment!

Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international and independent film and video. metrocinema.org

Hollywood Osc-travaganza!

Hollywood’s greatest night of glamour! Prize draws and live entertainment to fill in those awkward breaks in the show.

February 22 - Doors @ 5:00, Show @ 6:30 Tickets: $30 @ metrocinema.org

Canada’s Top 10 Film Festival Come celebrate the finest films our country has to offer and some the best filmmakers the world over. Visit metrocinema.org for full schedule and film details.

January 22 - February 2

Chicken Run

Reel Family Cinema

A comedy escape drama with a touch of passion set on a sinister Yorkshire chicken farm in 1950s England.

Free admission for children 12 & under!

January 31 @ 2:00

Metro Cinema at the Garneau

Metro Cinema receives ongoing support from these Arts Funders:

8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org

FINE WINE, SPIRITS AND ALES

According to Judy

The goddess of gravy weighs in Down here in New Zealand, we have something called the New Years Honours List. The media have hours of fun with it.

It starts with a proclamation: “Her Majesty has been pleased, on the celebration of the New Year, to make the following appointments,” …blah blah and so forth.

The Honours List Down Under includes doctors, lawyers, Maori chiefs. In fact, almost anybody who makes enough noise, from dog-groomers to sausagemakers, can be knighted. Sir Peter Leitch, aka The Mad Butcher, was knighted because he made wonderful sausage for his chain of meat shops. And there’s Dame Alison Holst, a woman best known for being a terrific cook.

Maybe nobody has informed Queen Liz that other good cooks are thick on the ground down here. Dame Judith does have a certain ring to it, yes?

Sadly, Canadians aren’t eligible for knighthoods. (That’s my excuse, and I’m stickin’ to it.) Conrad Black wanted to be Lord Black, and renounced his Canadian citizenship. He’ll never get it back. And I’ll never be Dame Judith.

Yet, in certain circles I do have a title.

I’m known as the Goddess of Gravy. The Diva of Drippings.

During the recent feasting season, starting with the Thanksgiving bird and running straight through New Year’s Day, my gravy graced two turkeys, a chicken, a duck, three pheasants and selected parts of a Canada goose. Not all on the same day, but still, it was a lot of gravy, and it was delicious.

The bird’s the thing, and we’ll get to that,

Now in Edmonton Centre!

780.458.4777 • info@unwined.biz www.unwined.biz • 2, 512 St. Albert Trail

30 January February 2015 | The Tomato

Judy Schultz

but of greater import is the base, a stock so rich and redolent it defies words.

The secret? Vegetables, beginning with the holy trinity of gravy: onions, celery with leaves and carrots. A big whack of rutabaga for sweetness, plus one tiny parsnip. Parsnip tastes faintly of turpentine but it does add a certain je ne sais quoi, so in it goes, along with half a sweet potato and a mitful of parsley; a few sage leaves; a branch of rosemary, same of thyme.

Simmer slowly in a big pot of water.

When the water is reduced by half, strain it into a plastic container that goes in the freezer. Voila, the Magic Stock Box. Money in the bank. Vegetarians could stop here, add a smidge of miso, and use it to improve their wretched Tofurkey.

Now to the bird. Suppose it’s a turkey, a goose or even two ducks. Whatever birdbits aren’t destined for the serving platter – wings, neck, pope’s nose, gizzard, heart, liver – should be slow-roasted along with a leek and a slice of bacon until it’s all brown and crispy. Discard the roasted liver; any passing cat will take it off your hands. Add a good glug each of water and whatever wine you have open and simmer until brown bits and drippings dissolve. Strain into your Magic Stock Box, which will now contain roughly two litres. Back to the freezer with it.

The rest is easy. Whenever the spirit moves you, roast a bird. Decant drippings into a pot, add thawed contents of the MSB and thicken as you wish. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Mmm, tasty. Houston, we have gravy.

Judy Schultz loves gravy. She divides her time between Alberta and New Zealand.

Le Creuset Stainless Steel Cookware

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