Issue 8: Culture Shock

INSIDE! Where to get picked up, taste traditional wagashi, shop for lingerie and watch live music

OCT - DEC 2015 NO.8 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

FREE

CULTURE SHOCK

100 ways Japan will blow your mind, starting with pop sensation

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

October – December 2015

Hello Tokyo…

Whether you’re visiting Japan on holiday or you’ve moved here permanently, the culture shock is bound to hit you in big – and small – ways. But we think the things that make the country so different are the very things that make it wildly inspiring.

To prove the point, we’ve rounded up 100 ways that Japan will blow your mind, from the bizarre to the basic. Kicking off our list is J-pop sensation Kyary Pamyu Pamyu who is steadily wowing the world with her very own version of kawaii.

Culture shock Discover the darker side of J-pop icon Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, p20

Inside 06 Tokyo Update

City news, city views 12 Tokyo Diary

Essential events 15 Courtesy calls

How to cry like a Tokyoite 20 Culture shock

100 ways Japan

will blow your mind 38 Eating & Drinking 42 Shopping & Style 50 Art & Culture

Tokyo

61 Music 66 Nightlife 69 Film 70 LGBT 71 Sport 72 Travel & Hotels 74 Getting Around 78 Tohoku Update 81 The evolution of sushi 82 You know

you’re in Tokyo when…

Cover Art direction: Steve Nakamura Photography: Yasunari Kikuma (MILD) Styling: Kumiko Iijima (IUGO) Hair and make-up, mask paint: Minako Suzuki

KYARY PAMYU PAMYU: YASUNARI KIKUMA, BREAKFAST: YASUHISA SHIMBO, PICK-UP SPOT: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.jp Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

Tokyo

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The best breakfasts Finally, the trend is catching on, p38

Editors Yukako Izumi izumi@timeout.jp Annemarie Luck annemarieluck@timeout.jp Planning Editor Ryoko Baba ryokobaba@timeout.jp Digital Content Editor

3

The best lingerie Beyond the frills, the bows, the padding, p42

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The best pickup spots Where to meet people, sans Tinder, p66

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The best hotels For those who like a little luxury, p72

JOIN THE CONVERSATION ON FACEBOOK, TWITTER AND THE TOKYOITE BLOG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo Ili Saarinen ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Editorial Assistants Mayumi Koyama Kosuke Shimizu Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Staff Writers

Yasuhisa Shimbo Kisa Toyoshima Kunihiro Miki Joyce Lam Mari Hiratsuka Aisté Riabovaité Shiori Kotaki Jun Harada Kirsty Bouwers

Crystal J Huang Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Manabu Morooka Administration Momo Ando Yuko Ota Distribution Takaki Matsuda

@TimeOutTokyo Takahiro Takeuchi Sales Assistant Aki Hashiya Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani Chairman Hiroshi Hasegawa

timeout.com/tokyo/blog International Content Director Marcus Webb International Art Director Anthony Huggins International Managing Director Time Out Digital David Woodley Universal House, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, President, TO Group Noel Penzer W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Founder +44 (0)20 7813 3000 Tony Elliott

Check out our brand-new site!

It’s been a busy few months in the Time Out Tokyo office. Just as we were going to print on this magazine in September, we also launched our primped and preened new website.

Head over to www.timeout.com/tokyo for all the latest news and events, all fed to you in one very spiffy looking package, if we do say so ourselves.

FIND US www.timeout.com/tokyo

Time Out Tokyo

@TimeOutTokyo

timeouttokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5

Tokyo update

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CITY FAQ

Why did Japan scrap Zaha Hadid’s Olympic stadium?

n July 17, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe told the world: ‘I have decided to scrap the current plan for the new national stadium, which is the venue for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics and Paralympics, and to start from scratch.’ Even though the stadium design and cost have been under fire for nearly three years now, the announcement flummoxed not only the public but also the designers at Zaha Hadid Architects (ZHA), who weren’t officially informed but had to read about the decision in the press.

‘It was a shock, not just to us but to other organisations in Japan too,’ says ZHA’s Jim Heverin, who has served as the project director since the firm’s

design was chosen in 2012. ‘Just a week earlier, everything had been signed off. We have no idea why it was so suddenly reversed.’ At the time of going to print, ZHA was waiting to hear news from the Prime Minister on the final decision – which will apparently be announced towards the end of this year – but Heverin believes they can still work together on a solution. ‘We know from experience it’s better to work with what we have, rather than start from scratch.

We believe we can moderate the current design to achieve a lower cost.’

As we wait for an update, perhaps the real question is will the new Olympic stadium be ready in time for the 2020 Olympics?

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES…

WHAT THE CRITICS SAID

Last year, Pritzker Prize winner Fumihiko Maki ran a petition with fellow prominent Japanese architects including Toyo Ito, Kengo Kuma and Sou Fujimoto to protest against Hadid’s 70m-high structure and pressurise her to downsize the stadium giant. Here are some of the harshest criticisms Hadid has had to face from Japan’s architects and other industry professionals.

‘If the stadium gets built the way it is, Tokyo will surely be burdened with a gigantic white elephant.’ ‘[It is] a monumental mistake.’

‘It will be a disgrace to future generations.’ ‘…a dull, slow form, like a turtle waiting for Japan to sink so that it can swim away.’

‘The sight left me in despair.’

‘I’m saying it’s just ridiculous.’

All-you-can-drink sake At the new Kurand Sake Market Asakusa, a ¥3,240 entrance fee gets you unlimited access to a selection of around 100 varieties of nihonshu. Simply pick out the bottles you want. They even let you bring your own food along. kurand.jp/sakemarket/shop/asakusa

A super spa in Kabukicho Kabukicho sure ain’t what it used to be: the ‘sex district’ has undergone a cleanup this year and the latest swanky new opening is spa complex Thermae-Yu. Open 22 hours every day, it features hot spring baths, a beauty salon, scrub treatments and a lounge with eateries. thermae-yu.jp

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Netflix The world’s largest paid online video provider has finally come to Japan.

Launched in early September, Netflix brings some welcome variation to the games shows we generally have to put up with. They’re offering free one-month trials and thereafter monthly charges from ¥650. www.netflix.com/jp-en

‘The new stadium design, though scaled back from the original, is still a mammoth totally out of sync with its verdant surroundings.’

FOOD APPS For scent cravers, halal seekers and diary keepers

HANA YAKINIKU Best for Those who get off on the smell of meat, or those on a serious budget.

How does it work? After downloading the app, you pick your favourite scent: short ribs, beef tongue or buttered potato. Plug the Scentee aroma dispenser (bought separately) into your smartphone’s headphone jack and enjoy a real bowl of, say, plain white rice (like we said, it’s good for budget eaters), while being surrounded by your chosen scent. Confused brain guaranteed.

Get it Free from the App store, but remember you can’t actually smell anything unless you buy the Scentee gadget. Starter kit, ¥4,980 (excl tax) at scentee.com/apps/hanayakiniku

Where in Tokyo is this?

CAT CAFE: MANABU MOROOKA

Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photo was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This photo’s clue: Spanish street artist Pejac worked his magic on this wall, which you’ll find on the outskirts of Tokyo near a temple that’s particularly famous for its seasonal, vibrant rhododendron bushes.

There’s a new cat café in town

Paint your face like a Tokyoite

Lovers of small, cute cats, beware: you might not want to leave this place. Opened in July 2015, Mocha’s decor seems as if it was designed with nothing but the cats’ well-being in mind, with lots of perches, hideouts and even small alcoves through which they can run to the staffroom if the attention just gets a bit too much. Two floors and ample seating space means it’s never cramped (unlike most animal cafés), and the price tag of ¥200 per 10 minutes means you can easily pop in just for a wee bit of playtime. catmocha.jp

Thick lashes, ‘big eye’ make-up, doll faces…

The make-up styles of Tokyo women are everevolving. And here’s some good news for those who want to try out one of the many varied looks. Face Tokyo, known for seasonal beauty products and techniques, is releasing a line of cosmetic boxes. The line includes four different types of boxes, each with its own theme – for example, the Raw Face Box places importance on maintaining a natural look, while the Doll Face Box supports a cute but sexy image. Each box comes with seven make-up items such as eyeliner and blush, as well as a booklet that explains how to apply the make-up.

And just like that, you can master current Tokyo makeup trends!

Available from Oct 1. face-tokyo.jp

HALAL GOURMET JAPAN Best for Finally being able to find non-haram food quickly in Tokyo.

How does it work?

Featuring over 400 eateries, this app is jannah for those looking to get their halal fix in Japan. You can set specific requirements for the restaurants, including ‘pork free’, ‘halal meat’ or ‘Muslim owner’, and search by area and food types. The pictogram-interface also makes it very easy to use.

Get it Free from the App store and Google Play.

MEAL – REMEMBER YOUR DAILY MEAL Best for When you want to keep a food journal.

How does it work? A very user-friendly app that creates a photo record of all your meals and when you ate them.

Just take a photo of your meal using the app (or import it from your camera) and it will be displayed in a lovely calendar format to help you keep track of what you’ve been eating. Photos are organised and sorted automatically into date order and according to breakfast, lunch and dinner – reminiscing about last week’s or last month’s meal has never been more enjoyable.

Get it Free from the App store.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Local legends #8

What the future holds Look into the crystal ball...

The hat guy

2017

Moomin theme park It’s been two years since news first broke of a Moomin theme park opening in Japan, and since then fans have eagerly been waiting to hear about the what and where. Finally, the deets have been announced, and the Moomin Theme Park is reportedly set to open in 2017 near Lake Miyazawa in Hanno, Saitama Prefecture. The organisers are keeping close to Moomin’s Finnish roots, choosing a natural, lakeside setting that emanates the land of forests and lakes. moomin.com

E

ijiro Miyama, aka ‘Boshi Ojisan’, is an outsider artist based in Yokohama. You’d notice him by his flamboyant clothing alone, but it’s his larger-than-life hats that really surprise passers-by. His self-made decorative headwear features things like an electric umbrella, Styrofoam mascots and magazine cutouts.

In his younger days, Miyama worked sporadically as a day labourer in skid rows such as Yokohama’s Kotobukicho and Tokyo’s Sanya. In his sixties, he began spending his days walking the streets wearing his elaborate hats. When asked what got him started on this amusing pastime, he replies, ‘Everyone has times when their life isn’t going well and they feel like their life will be over if they don’t do something about it. I felt like that and needed to try something a little different.’

At first he paraded around town with simple objects like cup noodle containers on his head, but he gradually started to decorate them. In 2006, Miyama attracted

attention as an outsider artist thanks to an exhibition at the Borderless Art Museum NO-MA. His work caught the eye of the curator from Collection de l’art Brut in Lausanne in Switzerland, leading to his inclusion in the Art Brut Japonais exhibition. He was invited to Switzerland for the show and rode around town on a bicycle, exhibiting his hats. Though Miyama has become known as an outsider artist, he prefers to call himself a ‘jumpedup sandwich-board man’. Although pleased to be called an artist, he’s also evidently uncomfortable with the lofty title, saying, ‘Anyone can just put things on a hat.’

He turned 80 last December, and he maintains his vitality by drinking a small amount of black vinegar each morning (a health regimen of his own invention) and singing plenty of karaoke. Want to meet him? He says you can often find him at big festivals in Yokohama or in areas like Harajuku, Sugamo and Asakusa about once a month.

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

New skyscraper and observation deck in Shibuya The days of waiting forever to nab a window seat at the Starbucks overlooking Shibuya crossing are set to be over – at least, they will be in 2019 when a 230m-high observation deck will be unveiled atop a new skyscraper. Tokyu Corp has announced its plans to build an East Tower for the Shibuya Station complex, including a 3,000 square-metre deck complete with helipad. Some predict its popularity might even surpass that of good ol’ Hachiko, but given its altitude, we don’t think it’ll be the new meeting spot…

LOCAL LEGEND: KISA TOYOSHIMA, MOOMIN: © 2015 MOOMIN MONOGATARI, LTD

2019

Three reasons to visit the all-new Epson Aqua Park

SECRET CITY Attractions off the beaten track

A

fter months of renovation, Shinagawa’s Epson Aqua Stadium (aqua-park.jp) recently reopened inside the Prince Hotel, boasting not only a new name but also a completely revamped entertainment section. The familiar shows and tanks have been combined with cutting-edge audiovisual displays, while the tunnel with stingrays and sharks had a fab facelift. Divided into 11 zones, including a fantastic sea space and a jungle area, it’s worlds away from the city outside.

Here’s what you can look forward to…

1

You can ride a seahorse for ¥500…

2

You can walk amongst jellyfish…

3

Noge Otsuka Kofun An ancient tomb mound in a park in central Tokyo? That almost sounds like an urban legend.

This one, however, is true: the historic site sits on the grounds of Tamagawa Nogemachi Park, just minutes from Todoroki Valley. The scallop-shaped tumulus dates back to the Kofun period (1600 years ago) and is the biggest in the Noge tomb group. Replicas of excavated relics are lined up along the path, which ends at a grassy stairway that leads you to the top of the mound. 1-25-1 Noge, Setagaya (Todoroki Station).

You can amble through a stingray tunnel…

The strange laws of Japan In light of the recently overturned ban on dancing in Japan and the slightly bizarre enforcement of bicycle laws, we’ve compiled a list of the strangest laws in Japan, rated according to their level of bizarreness.

STRANGE

STRANGER

STRANGEST

6

months

6

6

month

6

month

EPSON AQUA PARK: JUN HARADA, SECRET CITY: JOYCE LAM

month

You need to obtain a licence or certificate before being able to handle fugu (pufferfish). The emperor is also banned from eating it, just in case he gets a poisonous bit. The rest of the imperial family can, however.

Marriage will be invalidated if you married the wrong person. (Probably related to former arranged marriage traditions. We’re curious how this works out nowadays.)

Women (note: not men) who get divorced must wait six months before marrying again. If you give birth to a child during these six months, that child is legally your ex-husband’s.

It is forbidden to damage or throw away money (if you do, you could be fined up to ¥200,000 or spend a year in prison) – so no coin pendants for you.

If a child is born to a foreign mother out of wedlock, the father must officially ‘recognise’ the child while it’s still in the womb for it to become a Japanese citizen. Otherwise, the father has to ‘recognise’ the child before he or she reaches the age of 20.

If you discover life in outer space, including the moon, that may be hazardous to public health, you are required to immediately report it to the Secretary-General of the United Nations, as well as to the international scientific community.

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month

Kaminoge Station Who would’ve guessed that this small, modest station on the Tokyu Oimachi line was designed by the world-famous Tadao Ando? month Originally built in 1929, the station was renovated in 2011, which is when Ando transformed the station with his iconic concrete walls. What’s more, Tamagawa Nogemachi Park (see above) is only a 10-minute walk away. 1 Kaminoge, Setagaya.

6

Okutama Ootaki Literally ‘big waterfall’, Ootaki is the largest of the three waterfalls that dominate the hiking trail leading to Mt Otake.

Drive all the way up to Unazawa Enchi (the entrance of the trail, located just past the America Camp Village) and from there it’s a 70-minute roundtrip on foot to see all three waterfalls. Climb the rocks to get as close to the falls as you can and picnic under the splashing water. Okutama, Nishitama District (Unazawa Enchi is 15 minutes by car and 30 minutes by bicycle from Okutama Station).

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

The truth about city living Over 15,000 people worldwide answered Time Out’s City Living Survey, revealing – among other things – the formula for urban happiness. Here’s how Tokyo fits in

STAY! 54%

ERR YEAH, I MUST HAVE, LIKE, FOOD POISONING OR SOMETHING

9% of city employees feigned illness to get out of work in the last seven days.

SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? In Tokyo, it’s a toss-up between staying and going: 54% of Tokyoites think they’ll stay, 46% think they’ll leave. And it seems to be a love it or hate it kind of thing: 13% of respondents said they’d definitely be living in Tokyo in the next five years, and another 13% said ‘hell no’. Two sides of the same coin indeed.

THE CITY-DWELLERS MOST LOYAL TO THEIR ’HOOD ARE FROM... ...Melbourne, with a whopping 26% of residents saying they’re definitely staying. London is a close second at 25%. Istanbulites and Parisians are less loyal, with only 7% pledging to firmly stay put, with both Beijing and Shanghai having the dubious honour of zero respondents willing to stay for five years. Pollution factor, perhaps?

01. MELBOURNE 02. LONDON 03. KUALA LUMPUR 04. TOKYO 05. SINGAPORE 06. HONG KONG 07. NEW YORK 08. SYDNEY 09. ISTANBUL 10. PARIS

26 25 14 13 12 11 11 9 7 7

IS TOKYO THE BEST CITY? Even though ‘Monocle’ named us ‘most liveable city’, not all of us are convinced by our haunt. A staggering 27% of those thinking of leaving feel there are better cities to live in.

Others (33%) think that the jobs elsewhere are better – gotta make a living somehow.

YET IT’S GETTING BETTER… At the same time, for those who are staying put, life is on the up. 56% say the city is getting better for someone like them, and a mere 5% actually thinks it’s getting worse.

We’re a positive bunch after all.

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

+ + – =

Happiness If you want to be a happy city person, spring out of bed at 6.30am. Get some exercise, ideally by cycling for 22 minutes to your fancy job, where you’re paid 2.7 times more than the average person. Try not to check your emails or Twitter too obsessively, drink plenty of tea, then head home for a spot of rest and relaxation (and sex!) with your partner. Just be sure to be in bed by 9.30pm, because people who get nine hours’ sleep are the happiest.

HAPPINESS VS SLEEP IN TOKYO Our sleep to happiness ratio seems to peak at 7 hours – but Tokyoites getting an extra half hour are apparently among those unhappiest. Add another 30 minutes, and you’ve got yourself a happy bunny again. Timing is key indeed. But with our alarms going off at 7am on average, we have the choice of going to bed at 11pm or 12am.

No late nights for you, m’dear.

7AM

The percentage of urbanites around the world who have trouble sleeping.

‘Work worries’ is the most common reason for insomnia.

9AM

The time most Tokyoites set their alarm for.

LET’S DE-STRESS

31%

7 IN 10

45%

2 IN 5

Exercised in some way or spoke to your parents

Have been drunk enough to have a hangover the next day

Watched porn or had some sex

PARTY HARDY… OR NOT?

¥

¥5,540,403 The average annual salary of Tokyo respondents.

Either our respondents are very tame or us Tokyoites don’t like to risk the drug laws (including in survey responses) – out of over 100 respondents, only 4 said they had tried cannabis, 3 did MDMA/XTC and 2 did cocaine. Keeping it clean, guys.

ILLUSTRATIONS: PETER REYNOLDS AND YUKI MASUKO

The time most Tokyoites are expected at work.

MONEY MATTERS

Living in a big city can be tough.

What have you done in the past seven days?

Had a bit of a cry

62

BROKE WITH EXPENSIVE TASTE The average city-dweller thinks they need a 22% pay rise to feel ‘comfortably off’. Even the richest respondents feel the same.

DEBT-LESS

JUST PLAYING Of those people who flirted with a stranger in the last week, 35% are already in a relationship.

In Tokyo, we’re good with our finances: a skyrocketing 74% said you’re not really in any debt, compared to 50% of your Hong Kong brothers and sisters and 42% in Kuala Lumpur.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 11

Tokyo Diary AROUND TOWN ZOMBIE RUN Following the example set by similar events in the US, Singapore, Germany and other countries, the Japan version of Zombie Run takes place in the seaside surroundings of Chiba’s Inage and features a 2km course littered with undead corpses.

Sign up with a team of at least four but no more than ten runners, and prepare to fight off ravenous brain-eaters along the way. If you’re looking for a quirky Halloween experience, this one sure fits the bill.

Oct 18 Inage Seaside Park, 7-2-1 Takahama, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl. com/TOTzombierun. ¥4,860 (incl. souvenirs).

Tokyo Diary

What’s on in town October-December 2015 Make the most of the city with our editors’ picks of the best things to do over the next three months a ‘memorial service’ for tools, a tool market, performances by taiko drummers and a kids’ brass band, cheerleaders and more. Look out for discounts and bargain-priced services.

Oct 6-12 Kappabashi-dori. tinyurl. com/TOTkappabashi. Free entry.

October AROUND TOWN ODAIBA OKTOBERFEST Wow, a Tokyo Oktoberfest that actually takes place in October!

Odaiba’s second 2015 edition is also the last German sud extravaganza in the city this year, so cast off your inhibitions and head over for quality brews, endless sausages, oom-pah music and a cool autumn breeze by the seaside.

Oct 2-12 Symbol Promenade Park Central Plaza, 1-2 Daiba, Minato /1-2 Aomi, Koto/2-3 Ariake, Koto. tinyurl. com/TOTodaibafest. Free entry.

AROUND TOWN SETAGAYA BREAD FESTIVAL Setagaya’s super-popular Bread Festival returns in October, centring once again on the many renowned bakeries and bread shops around Setagaya Ward and backed up by quite a few visiting participants from around Japan. Sample local delicacies, pop into bread-related workshops and talks at the ‘Bread University’, and shop for sweets and baked goods.

Oct 3 & 4 IID Setagaya Monozukuri Gakko, 2-4-5 Ikejiri, Setagaya. tinyurl. com/TOTsetagaya. Free entry.

AROUND TOWN TOKYO GRAND TEA CEREMONY 2015 Always wanted to learn more about the Japanese tea ceremony? This

event sees both first-timers and tea masters getting together over two weekends to enjoy the wonders of the green drink. The first edition will take place at the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum in Koganei, while the second event is held at the Hama-Rikyu Gardens.

Oct 3 & 4 Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei-shi.

Oct 10 & 11 Hama-Rikyu Gardens, 1-1 Hamarikyu Teien, Chuo. tinyurl. com/TOTgrandtea. Tea ceremony for beginners ¥300, outdoor tea ceremony ¥300, tea ceremony workshop for children ¥200.

Entrance to the Hama-Rikyu Gardens charged separately.

AROUND TOWN 32ND KAPPABASHI KITCHEN TOOLS FESTIVAL An annual festival held in Kappabashi, the wholesale district between Ueno and Asakusa that specialises in tools and kitchen supplies for the restaurant business. The festival will feature a variety of attractions, including

12 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

FILM SHORT SHORTS FILM FESTIVAL & ASIA One of the biggest international short-film festivals in Asia, featuring six programmes highlighting awardwinning films, plus a number of artrelated documentaries such as ‘Obey the Giant’, which is about street artist Shepard Fairey, and 2012’s ‘A Brief History of John Baldessari’.

Oct 13-16 Andaz Hotel (51F Studio), 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato.

Oct 14-18 Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. tinyurl.com/TOTshortshorts. Free.

Magic men Peter Barakan’s Live Magic!, Kevin Spacey in ‘The Ventriloquist’ to be screened at the Short Shorts Film Festival (top)

FILM TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Tokyo’s top cinematic extravaganza is back. This year, the opening film is ‘The Walk’, a 3D biographical drama about French high-wire artist Philippe Petit (Joseph GordonLevitt) who walked a tightrope between the World Trade Center towers in the ’70s.

Oct 22-31 Roppongi Hills and other venues. tiff-jp.net/en. Prices vary.

FILM SITGES FILM FESTIVAL FANTASTIC SELECTION Screening selected movies from Europe’s most famed horror and fantasy film festival, including the zombie-comedy ‘Burying the Ex’, directed by Joe Dante, and the impactful ‘Wolfcop’.

Oct 24-Nov 1 Human Trust Cinema, 7-8F Cocoti Bldg, 1-23-16 Shibuya. www.shochiku.co.jp/sitgesfanta.

Prices vary.

MUSIC PETER BARAKAN’S LIVE MAGIC! Radio DJ Peter Barakan’s excellent morning show may have been axed

by InterFM last year, but that doesn’t seem to have slowed the man down:

jazz can still have mainstream appeal. Backed by Flying Lotus’s ever-evolving Brainfeeder label and a contributor on Kendrick Lamar’s masterful ‘To Pimp a Butterfly’, Kamasi is one of the genre’s hottest properties right now.

Oct 30-Nov 1 Blue Note Tokyo, Raika Bldg, 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTkamasiw. ¥7,800.

FILM 6TH TOKYO FOOD FILM FESTIVAL This year, the festival includes ‘restaurant screenings’, presenting different eateries with various food styles. Some of the films to look forward to include the documentary ‘Finding Gaston’, Yasujiro Ozu’s ‘Early Summer’, and the animation ‘Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs’.

Oct 31-Nov 13 Theatre Image Forum, 2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuya. tokyogohan.com. Adults ¥1,300, repeat visitors, children, seniors ¥1,100.

MUSIC COURTNEY BARNETT Australian Courtney Barnett is one of the hottest songwriting talents around at the moment, crafting sharp, witty lyrics that tease out the hidden significances in everyday life. She and her powerful band pair those words with circling psych-rock melodies and touching, downbeat indie-pop, and play highlights from her excellent debut album ‘Sometimes I Sit and Think, and Sometimes I Just Sit’ at Liquidroom in October.

Oct 30 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTcourtney. ¥5,500.

MUSIC KAMASI WASHINGTON His three-hour triple album ‘The Epic’ made serious waves earlier this year, demonstrating that innovative

AROUND TOWN MT TAKAO MAPLE FESTIVAL Various activities will be taking place around Mount Takao in November, including kokeshi doll demos and pop-up stalls selling masuzake (the curious boxed beverage). The main attraction is of course the autumn foliage. Main event locations include the Takao Forest Center at the foot of the mountain, Kiyotaki Station and the Ju-Itchome tea house on the hillside.

Nov 1-30 Area around Mt Takao, Hachioji. tinyurl.com/TOTtakaofes.

Free entry.

AROUND TOWN 11TH NISHI-OGI TAKIGI-NOH In addition to the kyogen play ‘Obagasake’, you can look forward to a rendition of the Noh classic ‘Hagoromo’. It tells the story of a fisherman and a ‘tennin’ (aerial) spirit, who cannot return to her heavenly home without her magical feather-mantle, which the fisherman has found and refuses to return to her. Head over to Zenpukuji Park to enjoy this popular drama.

Nov 3 Igusa Hachimangu Shrine, 1-33-1 Zenpukuji, Suginami. tinyurl. com/TOTnishiogi. Adv ¥3,000, at the door ¥3,500.

AROUND TOWN HANAZONO SHRINE TORI NO ICHI This market at Hanazono Shrine gets underway with a warm-up festival on the Wednesday night,

though the main event is on the Thursday. There’ll be 60-odd stalls selling decorative ‘kumade’ rakes, plus 200 other vendors hawking food and other festival knickknacks.

Nov 4 & 5, 16 & 17, 28 & 29 Hanazono Jinja, 5-17-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTtoriichi.

Free entry.

Japan, and street performers giving live shows for the duration of the festival.

Nov 14-Dec 6 Icho Namikidori & Meiji Jingu Gaien, 1-1 Kasumigaokamachi, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTginkgo. Free entry.

AROUND TOWN MARUNOUCHI ILLUMINATION During this annual winter tradition, the trees along a 1.2km-stretch of Marunouchi Naka-dori get lit up, creating a beautiful champagnegold road. The good news is they’ve worked hard to reduce the power consumption per ball, making this a (sort of) eco-friendly illumination.

Nov 12-Feb 14 Marunouchi Nakadori and surroundings. tinyurl.com/ TOTmaruillumi. Free. Dates may vary.

AROUND TOWN JINGU GAIEN GINKGO FESTIVAL This festival begins as autumn turns the surrounding ginkgo leaves yellow and includes stalls selling noted products from different regions of

AROUND TOWN RIKUGIEN AUTUMN LEAVES LIGHTUP Rikugien’s annual lightup returns for autumn, creating a magical and unforgettable atmosphere in the park, which stays open until 9pm for the duration of the event.

Nov 19-Dec 6 Rikugien, 6 Honkomagome, Bunkyo. tinyurl. com/TOTrikuleaves. Adults ¥300, seniors ¥150.

FILM LIVE CINEMA CONCERT OF 2001: A SPACE ODYSSEY Bunkamura Orchard Hall will be showing an uncut version of Stanley Kubrick’s masterful ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ with an accompanying live performance by Japan’s Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted

by Robert Ziegler. We don’t want to give too much away, but the set includes famous works by Richard Strauss.

Nov 25-Nov 26 Bunkamura Orchard Hall, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. www.kajimotomusic.com/en/ticket.

From ¥6,000.

AROUND TOWN FIESTA DE ESPANA One of the last of Yoyogi Park’s large-scale national festivals in 2015, this colourful celebration will feature dozens of food and drink stalls dealing in delicacies like paella and tapas, plus booths selling Spanish knickknacks, groceries, wine and more.

Visitors will also be treated to entertainment like flamenco performances and groovy gigs.

Nov 28 & 29 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTespana. Free entry.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary

November

Bright nights Rikugien Autumn Leaves Lightup, Hanazono Shrine Tori no Ichi (above)

PHOTO FROM PREVIOUS EVENT

in addition to hosting several shows, he set up his very own music fest last year called Live Magic! This year it returns with a mix of classic rock, soul, jazz, world music and more, served up by the likes of Daymé Arocena (Cuba), Gurrumul (Australia) and local talent in the form of Tin Pan, Oki Dub Ainu Band and Yuji Hamaguchi.

Oct 24 & 25 Yebisu The Garden Hall, 1-3-2 Mita, Meguro. tinyurl. com/TOTpeterlive. One-day ticket ¥12,000, two-day ticket ¥21,000, students ¥7,000/¥11,000.

Tokyo Diary since collaborated with Kanye West, Charli XCX, Tinashe and Miguel, further enhancing his status around the world. Catch him live for one night at Unit.

Dec 5 Unit, Za House Bldg, 1-34-17 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTcashmere. Adv ¥5,000, at the door ¥5,500.

Tokyo Diary

December

AROUND TOWN CHICHIBU NIGHT FESTIVAL As one of Japan’s ‘big three’ float festivals (along with Kyoto’s Gion Festival and the Hida Takayama Festival), this has been Chichibu’s main December event for 300 years.

The festival’s showcase attractions are two elaborately carved floats resplendent with lanterns, which are pulled along and then hoisted up by men in ‘mawashi’ loincloths. The climax of the festival is the incredibly popular fireworks display, which is particularly beautiful in the clear winter air.

Dec 2 & 3 Chichibu Shrine, 1-3 Banba-machi, Chichibu, Saitama. tinyurl.com/TOTchibunight. Free.

Tongue twisters Oneohtrix Point Never, Chichibu Night Festival (left)

MUSIC ONEOHTRIX POINT NEVER Brooklyn-based composer Daniel Lopatin, aka Oneohtrix Point Never, has always deftly balanced the experimental with the accessible, defying genre barriers ever since breaking into the spotlight with 2011’s ‘Replica’. Creating conceptual worlds of ambient sound, he’ll be stopping by Tokyo in December on the back of new

album ‘Garden of Delete’, set to be released in November.

Dec 3 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTonepoint. ¥5,940.

MUSIC CASHMERE CAT Norwegian-born musician, DJ and producer Cashmere Cat first attracted attention with his 2012 debut EP ‘Mirror Maru’. He has

AROUND TOWN SETAGAYA BOROICHI Around 700 stalls line the street during the annual Setagaya Boroichi, a venerable flea market that’s been going for more than 430 years now. Held twice a year, the event attracts tens of thousands of visitors, making it one of the highlights on Setagaya’s yearly calendar. If you don’t mind the long queues, it’s worth sampling one of the market’s popular daikan mochi (rice cakes).

Dec 15 & 16, Jan 15 & 16 Boroichidori, 1-29 Setagaya, Setagaya. tinyurl. com/TOTsetaboro. Free.

For more events, go to timeout.com/ tokyo

P this lease pr e mag azin sent e to get all fo od a nd d rink orde rs!

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14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 8 How to cry like a Tokyoite Don’t get caught sobbing in public, rather find a more organised outlet.

Words Grace Buchele Mineta. Illustration Bunny Bissoux

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social media, amassing over two million views in less than a week.

esterday I saw a young woman crying at the train station. She sat near the ticket gates holding her cellphone and softly sobbing. ‘Should... we help her?’ I asked my husband (he’s Japanese so he has a better understanding than me of the social courtesies here). He shook his head and told me to just let her be; she would feel better after a good cry (and might be embarrassed if we drew attention to her).

We all have days like that, when the pressures of life threaten to tear down the last of your walls and all you want to do is curl into a ball and bawl for 20 minutes. But unless you work for that one Japanese company that offers ‘heartache leave’, you might very well end up bottling it all up and then breaking down in public. There are better places to cry than a train station, though, and I’m here to help you with the dos and don’ts of crying in Tokyo.

DO: JOIN A ‘TEAR-SEEKING’ EVENT A few years back, an ‘International Study on Adult Crying’ found that Japanese men and women are among the least likely to let the tears flow. No real surprise, since public outbursts of emotion are generally frowned upon here. That’s where rui-katsu, or ‘tear seeking’ events come in handy. These communal weeping groups were started in Tokyo in 2013 by former salesman Hiroki Terai and have been popping up across Japan in the last year. Essentially they give you permission to sob uncontrollably in a friendly space, providing sad video clips designed to help open the floodgates. Some events are free; others charge a small amount

DO: RENT A ‘CRYING ROOM’ AT THIS HOTEL Combine a good cry with some pampering at the Mitsui Garden Hotel Yotsuya near Shinjuku. In March, the hotel launched a handful of designated ‘crying rooms’ and the concept has proven so popular that they’ve extended the offer, which was meant to end in August, to the end of the year.

Stocked with soft tissues, eye masks, heat pads and tear-jerker films (think ‘Forrest Gump’ and ‘The Diving Bell and the Butterfly’) to help get you in the mood. Sorry guys, this particular heartbreak hotel is for ladies only.

Book it: From ¥10,000 per night, tinyurl.com/cryingroom

to cover hosting costs. All you need to bring is a box of tissues and a willingness to cry.

DON’T: CRY ON THE JOB If you don’t let the pain out every once in a while, you could end up like the most famous example of Japanese people crying on the job: the fortysomething provincial politician Ryutaro Nonomura who broke down during a filmed press

conference in July 2014. Nonomura was accused of wasting over ¥3 million of public money on personal expenses and after two hours of struggling to answer question after complicated question, the pressure got to be too much. Nonomura broke down. With tears streaming down his face, he slammed his fists on the table, apologised, and shouted nonsensical phrases. Shortly afterwards, the video went viral on

DO: BOOK A TRIP ON THE ‘TAXI FOR THE BROKEN-HEARTED’ Just been dumped? This is the perfect opportunity to escape to Kyoto and book a tour with the Shitsuren Taxi (‘Broken Heart Taxi’).

The driver picks you up at Kyoto Station or at your hotel if it’s in central Kyoto and takes you to popular and historic spots around the city, with a special itinerary designed to heal a shattered heart. The 6.5-hour tour includes temples, shrines, tarot cards, green tea, silk textile dying, lunch, and plenty of beautiful sights for the soul. They even offer an English-speaking assistant. You can book a solo trip, giving you plenty of time to sob between stops, or go with friends for moral support.

Book it: ¥33,000 for one person (price decreases if you bring friends), tinyurl.com/TOTshitsuren For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 15

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

I,TOKYO Misha Janette Founder of www.tokyofashiondiaries.com, fashion writer and stylist, 31

What brought you to Tokyo?

I wanted to be a stylist, but I knew that growing up in Washington State and not having much money was going to make it difficult to stand out.

And in fashion, you have to stand out first, and then show what you’re made of. So I decided to come to Japan and study at Bunka Fashion College, and immerse myself in a completely different culture where I could mix in my American sensibility.

You came here 10 years ago. How was the fashion different back then?

For one, it was way more expensive. A basic T-shirt cost ¥10,000. I remember I couldn’t even find a camisole for less than ¥7,000. These days, there is a lot more variety in price range!

You’ve also been through a kawaii phase, even presenting for NHK WORLD’s Kawaii International TV show…

Yes, this began after I started my blog, about four years ago. Around the same time I was introduced to [kawaii champion] Sebastian Masuda and kawaii fashion. People started asking me to wear the clothes and this led to presenting for NHK with a ‘Harajuku girl’ persona. These days, my role has changed as now I’m focused on showing the evolution of fashion here, and explaining foreign views versus the way it really is in Japan.

You recently worked with Sebastian on creating costumes for Harajuku’s Kawaii Monster Cafe. Tell us about your inspiration.

We were going for an ’80s club kids vibe and wanted to give visitors something weird and wild

Misha (third from left) with Kawaii Monster Cafe’s ‘Monster Girls’ whose costumes she designed

and fun. I also wanted to break away from the obvious cute comparisons with Kyary Pamyu Pamyu so I went for something more adult: tight, short, showing off the décolletage.

Also, the costumes had to be on par with Disneyland characters because, after all, it’s a themed restaurant.

Which store should every tourist visit?

Dog in Harajuku. It’s a bit intimidating to go in there, and you might not be able to find something to buy, but you’ll be welcomed into this world that is the gravitational pull of Harajuku. If that store goes, Harajuku will be no more.

What do you think makes Tokyo special?

For me, Tokyo is like a refuge. People who live here know that there are a lot of societal rules, but at the same time there is a freedom because

you don’t bother other people; you let them be.

You don’t have to worry about being accosted in the street for looking different. Because of that, fashion has thrived.

New trends to look out for?

One of the things I love about Japan is that you can mix two completely opposite things together and it’s okay. Right now, I’m into mixing street styles, and I’m really enjoying ‘neo street style’ – it’s an emerging trend featuring things like yarn dreads in the hair, hardcore oversized clothes and Buffalo platforms, lots of piercings, but then a cute Pikachu hat on the head. It’s a colourful, manga, hip-hop, retro, urban, raver, cyber style.

When did you first feel like a Tokyoite?

When I was squished into the trains on my way to Bunka College in Shinjuku every day!

INTERVIEW: ANNEMARIE LUCK, IMAGE: KISA TOYOSHIMA

How has your own style evolved?

I’ve kind of gone in circles. Right now, I’m back to dressing how I did when I was a student here: black and white, graphical. When I was starting out as a stylist, I met a hat designer who made these beautiful statuesque Isabella Blow-like hats, so I started wearing them to Tokyo Fashion Week. I essentially styled myself.

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country,

I, GLOBAL Domo NHK mascot

Discover a different Tokyo Step off the beaten path and find your way to the city’s top secret sights

T

ime Out Tokyo's recent travel survey confirmed it: most visitors to Tokyo still head for the obvious spots, be it Shibuya’s scramble crossing, the neon streets of Akihabara or Shinjuku’s wonderfully OTT Robot Restaurant. However, if you’ve already seen all of the above and are itching to get under the skin of this incredibly diverse city, tune right in to NHK WORLD’s ‘Tokyo Eye 2020’, a new internationally focused travel show. Combined with ‘Tokyo Eye’, which takes you behind the scenes of the city, it helps you discover a Tokyo that’s very different from the guidebook version.

Mission Akihabara

©NHK-TYO

As we mentioned above, most tourists coming to Tokyo pay a visit to Akihabara. However, the area is constantly changing, making it a bit of a challenge to locate the top spots. ‘Tokyo Eye 2020’ brings you the latest trends, plus useful tips for first-time visitors.

Slurp your way around the city

Ramen has become a global culinary phenomenon, but Tokyo is still the noodle capital of the world. Join the locals on a tour of their favourite ramen joints, from well-known shops to obscure suburban gems.

Take an intro to indie central

Shimokitazawa is one of Tokyo’s hippest neighbourhoods, packed with vintage shops, record stores, small theatres and gig spots.

‘Tokyo Eye’ serves up a selection of unmissable things to do in this laidback centre of cool.

on your TV, computer or mobile device, visit nhk.jp/nhkworld

Tower or tree?

Since opening in 2012, Tokyo Skytree has become one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. But can it really match the charm of Tokyo Tower, the venerable orangeand-white Tokyo icon? ‘Tokyo Eye 2020’ investigates.

Art out in the open

Autumn is the perfect season for artsy adventures. Let the ‘Tokyo Eye’ crew guide you to the city’s hottest galleries, open-air pieces and shops, plus a bunch of visitworthy spots unknown to your average tourist.

24 hours

Sleep can wait. In Tokyo, there’s so much going on 24 hours a day that FOMO is a constant threat. In this issue we’re celebrating all the fabulous ways Japan will blow your mind, and we want to show off just what makes our favourite city so unique. So we asked our readers to send us their personal photos, taken at all times of the day, to give you a glimpse at Tokyo in all her traditional and modern glory.

7am

6am

Up early in Asakusa.

Fish market stand in Kichijoji.

Image: Luis A Suarez

Image: Naoko Fujishima

9am

Harajuku.

Image: Emilie Hébert

10am

Looking down from Tokyo Tower. Image: Erika Cota

11am

Shinkansen reflection in the window near Shinagawa Station.

18 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Image: Arseny Rossikhin

Image: Emilie Hébert

in

12pm

Clockwise from above: Asakusa Park, Imperial Palace street scholars, Omotesando. Images: Max Golomidov

3pm

2pm

Blending in with the crowd in slow motion, Ginza.

Image: Quah Su Gin (Sid)

Man walking in Takadanobaba.

Image: Justin Epperson

5pm

Gotoh Museum Kaminoge – tradition meets modernism.

Image: Pascal Bergougnou

9pm

Dinner at an izakaya in Shimokitazawa.

Image: Amy Chang

11pm

A couple’s adventure begins. Image: Becky Dowding

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 19

20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

When people first land in Japan, the most common phrase used to describe the experience is: ‘It blew my mind.’

We’ve taken this feeling, analysed it, and broken it down into 100 specific ways that this country will blow you away.

Starting with kawaii icon Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, our list includes things like the receptionist robots at newly opened Hennna Hotel, the crazy new Kawaii Monster Cafe in Harajuku, the bonsai that ‘flew’ to space, and everyday wonders like the pens with erasable ink and the sun visors that sparked a fashion trend on global catwalks. Who ever said culture shock was a bad thing? Words James Hadfield ART DIRECTOR STEVE NAKAMURA PHOTOGRAPHER YASUNARI KIKUMA STYLING KUMIKO IIJIMA HAIR AND MAKE-UP, MASK PAINT MINAKO SUZUKI

MEET THE ART DIRECTOR Born in 1973 in Los Angeles, California, Steve Nakamura is an art director and designer who has been based in Tokyo since 2001. A graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Steve has created a wide body of work that has profoundly influenced pop culture in Japan and abroad. He has served as art director for Kyary Pamyu Pamyu’s album covers since her debut, has worked on annual ad campaigns for the iconic department store Laforet Harajuku, and has designed Time Out Tokyo’s magazine covers since issue 2. stevenakamura.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

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001 Kyary Pamyu Pamy As the Japanese pop culture icon prepares for her October concert in London, we ask her what’s behind those bizarre costumes and cheeky facial expressions.

Interview Kunihiro Miki You’re known for your outlandish costumes. Did you enjoy the wardrobe for this issue’s cover shoot?

I’ve done Japanese-themed shoots before, where I wore kimonos or yukatas. But this was my first time doing something that was, I guess, masculine. It’s kind of cool and innovative.

different at each venue, you truly get to experience what it’s like to perform in another country. I was surprised to see that a lot of the London fans were very punk-ish.

Quite a few people had long hair and were wearing punk T-shirts. It was interesting to realise how many of them aren’t the type of people who are into cute things.

What do you wear on your days off?

I really like clothes, but I get tired of always wearing bright, pop-style clothes, so on my days off I often wear darker colours. Like black dresses and sporty looks. I think it’s a little different from the public image of Kyary Pamyu Pamyu.

What do you always do before a show?

I practise greetings in each country’s language. The Asian languages are especially hard, because if you change the intonation even a little, it can change the meaning. I’m not very good at English either, so I want to work on that.

Of all the phrases that have been used to describe you in overseas media, which one resonated with you the most?

Oh, I wonder… Maybe when they say ‘Japanese pop icon Kyary’. That is something I always wanted to achieve, so when people from other countries say it, it makes me happy.

I like dark stories... things with heartless relationships, stalkers...

Do you come across misleading clichés about Japan in the Western media?

Yes, I get asked a lot of strange questions during interviews. In terms of fashion, they always ask me about designers, which is something that hardly ever comes up in Japan.

Any surprises in the overseas reports on you?

When I was introduced on TV as part of Cool Japan, I was really surprised. My image of Cool Japan was mainly anime, food or culture, promoted politically, and so I didn’t imagine music or artists would be considered part of that.

I would think that including you actually improved the image of Cool Japan. What do you personally think is cool about Japan?

I think traditional Japanese culture is cool. Like with today’s shoot, I was shown pictures of Children’s Day dolls as inspiration, and I thought those gallant young boys in dignified poses were really beautiful. And there’s the Girls’ Festival (Hinamatsuri) too. So depending on the occasion there are parts of tradition that are beautiful and have elements of fashion. I want to incorporate these things into my outfits. I want to display my identity as Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, while mixing in traditional culture.

You’re performing at Roundhouse in London in October. Previously you played at Shepherd’s Bush Empire and 02 Academy Brixton. What’s it like to perform at such historic venues that are unlike anything found in Japan?

It’s absolutely nothing like in Japan. It feels almost like being in a church and since the atmosphere is so

You’re known for your poses and facial expressions. What are you feeling when you make these?

I sometimes make a cute pose when I’m wearing cute outfits, but to really show off my personality, I also make funny or mischievous faces. I don’t always know if those bits will get used, though [laughs].

Your music videos also contain some darker elements. What are these inspired by?

My apartment has a lot of pink, cute things in it, but the manga I have on my shelves are things like ‘Himizu’ and ‘Ushijima the Loan Shark’. I like dark stories [laughs]. It’s the same for movies; I like things with heartless relationships, stalkers, that kind of thing. I try to put some of that darkness into my music videos and concerts, too.

Are you influenced by any Western musicians or pop stars?

I’ve always been a huge fan of Katy Perry. Lately, I’ve been listening to a lot of Meghan Trainor. Most of her songs are about being true to yourself. I also like how the tunes have a retro feel. Her music videos are also super cute.

Are you interested in Japanese idols from the ’80s and ’90s?

Kyoko Koizumi is super enchanting. I met her once and she mentioned how she was sick of the logic that idols had to be cute and fluffy all the time, so she chopped her hair into a boyish look – that ushered in a new craze and the ‘Kyoko Koizumi look’ became a thing. I like the idea that something that starts out from your frustration can turn into a success.

You also have this aspect of seeming like a cute pop idol at first, but in fact you’ve carved out a unique aesthetic. Do you plan to develop a different persona going forward?

I’ll be 23 soon, and up to now most of my work has focused on the cute aspect of things, so I want to explore something more edgy. I definitely want to develop a new side.

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

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myu

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

TECHNOLOGY

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THE ROBOTS ARE TAKING OVER (AND IT’S KINDA COOL)

Making good on its ‘country of the future’ reputation, Japan has been stealthily repopulating its service industry with automatons. At the newly opened Henn-na Hotel (www.h-n-h.jp/en) in Nagasaki’s Huis Ten Bosch theme park, the receptionists and porters are all robots. The venerable Mitsukoshi department store in Nihonbashi, Tokyo made headlines earlier this year when it put a kimono-clad humanoid on the front desk for a couple of days. Things are going cybernetic on the home front, too. In June, SoftBank started selling the world’s first personal robot, Pepper, a cutesy droid that can read people’s emotions (www.softbank.jp/robot/ special/pepper). Despite costing ¥198,000, the first batch of 1,000 sold out in a minute. And there’s more to come: Suzumo Machinery has even developed a line of sushi-making robots.

003

INTERCITY TRAVEL HAPPENS AT BULLET SPEED

The world’s first high-speed rail service, the Shinkansen (aka ‘bullet train’) is still one of its best, with a network extending from Kagoshima in southern Kyushu to Aomori in the north. The only thing more impressive than its operating speed (up to 320km/h) is the time it takes station staff to clean an entire train: just seven minutes. Expect things to get considerably faster when a new maglev line linking Tokyo and Nagoya opens in 2027. In test runs in April 2015, the train set a world speed record of 603km/h.

TECHNOLOGY IS GETTING 004 3DMIND-BENDING From ceramics to prosthetics, Japanese businesses are making inventive uses of 3D printing technology. One of the most impressive developments comes from scientists at the University

of Tokyo Hospital, who are working on a bio-printer that uses stem cells and a collagen-like substance to make artificial implants. Need a new ear? Meanwhile, imaging experts are muddying the divide between the physical and virtual realms: Japanese researchers recently unveiled a 3D hologram that you can actually touch.

005 EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED

There’s been a lot of buzz recently about the Internet of Things – where everyday objects embedded with electronic devices can communicate with each other – but few countries have done as much legwork as Japan. Aided by some of the fastest Internet speeds in the world, the country has spent the past decade networking everything from infrastructure to vending machines, household appliances and umbrella stands (no, really). The market was valued at ¥11 trillion in 2013 – and that’s predicted to double by 2018.

Buckle up.

GOT THE FOOD (AND FUEL) OF TOMORROW 006 WE’VE

You need a microscope to see it, but a microalgae being commercially cultivated in Japan may be the

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

answer to two of the world’s most pressing problems. Hotly fancied start-up Euglena is pitching the eponymous single-celled organism as a nutrition-rich dietary supplement that could solve world food shortages – and as a viable biofuel, too.

BEAUTY PRODUCTS ARE NEXT LEVEL 007 THE

Overseas fashion magazines are just waking up to the wonderful world of Japanese cosmetics, turning beauty products such as Cure Natural Aqua Gel and DHC Deep Cleansing Oil into must-have items. It’s hard not to love the novel treatments and preference for natural ingredients here. And with so many pharmacies around, prices stay competitive, too.

A GROOVIER WAY TO PLAY YOUR RECORDS 008 THERE’S

Why mess with a classic? 35 years ago, Tamco released the Sound Wagon, a toy VW camper van that plays records by driving over the grooves. DJ gear specialists Stokyo just unveiled an updated version, the Record Runner, which offers better sound quality than the original, without sacrificing an iota of cuteness.

009 YOU’VE GOTTA HAVE ‘ECO’

Japan’s automakers have been a driving force (sorry) in developing fuel-efficient hybrid cars and electric vehicles such as the Nissan Leaf. But you’ll find all kinds of eco-friendly products here, from Panasonic’s energy-saving intelligent air conditioners to PET bottles that are made from other recycled PET bottles.

010

SELFIES? BEEN THERE ALREADY Long before selfie sticks became the accessory of choice for teen narcissists, Japanese youngsters had purikura: photo booths where you can pose with friends, then decorate the pictures and print them as stickers. Oh, and spare a thought for Hiroshi Ueda, a Minolta engineer who patented a commercially unsuccessful selfie stick way back in 1983.

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013

THE GAMING INDUSTRY IS STILL BOOMING

ALWAYS ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT 012 THERE’S

HIGH-RISES KEEP RISING 011 THE

HENN-NA HOTEL: COURTESY OF HUIS TEN BOSCH; SHINKANSEN: SHUTTERSTOCK, WASHLET, IC CARD, PENS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Improvements in anti-seismic technology are allowing Japanese developers to be ever more ambitious. Tokyo is in the grip of a skyscraper boom that’s transforming the city’s skyline, while Osaka boasts the tallest building in the country, the 300-metre Abeno Harukas. And don’t forget Tokyo Skytree: at 634 metres, the tallest tower in the world.

Given that fares have barely changed since the early 1990s, you’d think that Japan’s public transport system would be suffering from benign neglect. Think again: rail companies are constantly upgrading their rolling stock and investing in large-scale redevelopment projects, while bus operators are taking pains to make their services more accessible to foreign tourists.

Japan may have given the world many of its greatest videogame consoles, but these days most of the gaming action has gone mobile. Ludicrously popular smartphone game ‘Monster Strike’ – produced by social media company Mixi – is currently raking in ¥500 million every day, while rivals ‘Puzzle & Dragons’ and ‘Tsum Tsum’ aren’t far behind. Still, it’s too soon to call time on the traditional console makers: worldwide sales of Sony’s PlayStation 4 passed the 25 million mark earlier this year, taking even the company’s executives by surprise.

STUFF THAT MAKES LIFE BETTER…

016 Toto washlet

Once you’ve experienced a heated toilet seat, there’s no going back.

The Toto Washlet elevates the act of excretion to wondrous heights, complete with built-in bidet, blowdryer and an automated seat that rises to greet you.

014 EVEN THE APPS ARE CUTE

Making sure even your smartphone can get the kawaii treatment, CocoPPa is an app that lets you customise your phone’s wallpaper and icons (even for standards like Facebook and YouTube), choosing from over a million designs. With 40 million downloads and counting since 2012, this is one of Japan’s most successful apps ever.

017 Rechargeable IC cards

Not just a convenient way to pay your train fare: you can use them at convenience stores and vending machines too. What’s more, a Suica or Pasmo card bought in Tokyo is compatible nationwide.

015

YOU CAN DRIVE THE CAR OF THE FUTURE It may bear a passing resemblance to the bubble cars that Messerschmitt churned out in the ’50s, but don’t be fooled: one day, the Toyota i-Road (below) could be the automobile of choice for city dwellers. Powered by a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, this compact, car-motorbike hybrid is both eco-friendly and easy to park. If you need something smaller, try Honda’s Uni-Cub, a personal mobility device that ‘USA Today’ compared to ‘a bar stool on wheels’, or Cocoa Motors’ WalkCar, a moving platform that’s dinky enough to fit in a briefcase.

018 Sci-fi stationery

Rather than lament the death of handwriting, Japan’s stationery makers continue to innovate. Pilot’s FriXion pens use heat-sensitive ink that you can actually erase, while Kokuyo’s Harinacs is a stapler without the staples. Brilliant.

019 Stackable parking

Space is at such a premium in Japan’s major cities that around 540,000 car parks nationwide have gone vertical, using lifts and conveyor belts to stack vehicles on top of each other.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 25

FOOD AND DRINK

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YOU CAN COOK WHILE YOU EAT Diners who like to take a more active role in the preparation of their meals are glutted for choice here. Okonomiyaki (right), shabu-shabu, yakiniku: there’s a plethora of restaurants that let you cook your own food. At the Zauo chain of fish restaurants, you can even catch your dinner before eating it.

A NATION OF PERFECTIONISTS 021 IT’S

‘I do the same thing over and over, improving bit by bit,’ says octogenarian sushi master Jiro Ono in 2011 documentary ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’. ‘There is always a yearning to achieve more.’ Perfectionism is hardwired into Japanese cuisine (washoku), and you don’t have to go to Sukiyabashi Jiro, Ono’s Michelin three-star restaurant, to appreciate it. In fact, you don’t even need to eat washoku: from haute cuisine to burger bars and pizzerias, Japanese chefs show an attention to technical mastery and carefully sourced ingredients that leaves many of their Western contemporaries in the dust. There’s a reason why Tokyo has more three-star Michelin restaurants than Paris.

FLAVOURS WE’RE FAMOUS FOR…

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Umami: There aren’t many countries in the world that can claim to have birthed an entire taste category, are there?

Wasabi: The pungent plant is an essential – and frequently eye-watering – condiment for sushi and other washoku.

Sansho: Frequently confused with Sichuan pepper, this spice brings a tonguetingling citrus kick to any dish.

Tsukemono: Japanese pickles encompass a rich array of tastes, from refreshing cabbage shiozuke to mouthpuckering umeboshi.

Miso: A meal just wouldn’t feel complete without a bowl of soup made from this fermented soybean paste.

Shio-koji: When you’re in need of an umami kick, reach for this natural seasoning – like MSG without the drawbacks.

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WHISKY IS BETTER THAN SCOTCH 028 THE

Japanese whisky has been in such demand recently that producers can barely keep up. That’s hardly surprising, when Suntory and Nikka are scooping up international awards, and esteemed critic Jim Murray picked a single malt from Suntory’s Yamazaki distillery as his whisky of the year for 2015. Closer to home, the success of NHK’s TV series ‘Massan’ – based on the life of early whisky pioneer Masataka Taketsuru and his Scottish wife, Rita Cowan – has encouraged a new generation of drinkers to kick out the drams.

THE EXPENSIVE LUNCHES ARE CHEAP 029 EVEN

Perhaps the best advice you can give to someone on a culinary tour of Japan is: eat out at lunchtime.

Discount lunch sets are the norm here, especially on weekdays – and that’s as true at high-end hotel restaurants and sushi shops as at the cheaper eateries frequented by office workers. Even the odd Michelin three-star restaurant is getting in on the act: Aoyama Esaki in Tokyo offers a Saturday-only lunch course for a surprisingly reasonable ¥5,500.

AND DRINKING IS 030 EATING THE THING TO DO

As your parents might have warned you, drinking on an empty stomach is the fastest ticket to a stinking hangover the morning after. That’s less of a problem in Japan, where

26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

drinking sessions tend to take place in izakaya – meaning there’s always plenty of food to help soak up the booze.

A COFFEE BOOM BREWING 031 THERE’S

The days where visitors struggled to find a good cup of Joe in Japan are long gone. Specialty coffee is booming at the moment, thanks in no small part to the likes of Karuizawa’s Maruyama Coffee and Tokyo’s Nozy Coffee. And the ¥100 coffee on sale at 7-Eleven and other convenience stores? It’s actually pretty drinkable, too.

SAKE SCENE IS GOING PLACES 032 THE

As the US and UK grow ever thirstier for sake, young Japanese drinkers

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are also rediscovering the pleasures of premium nihonshu. Following years of slumping sales, sake producers are innovating like wild: adopting eye-catching packaging, embracing new styles like sparkling sake, and reviving old-school techniques such as the kimoto brewing method.

FAST FOOD IS ACTUALLY GOOD 034 THE

Washoku isn’t all fancy, you know.

Over the past decade there’s been a resurgence of interest in heartier, homier fare such as ramen, Japanese-style curry rice, okonomiyaki and donburi rice bowls.

Dubbed B-kyu gurume (B-class cuisine) by the locals, it’s the kind of fast food that you won’t feel guilty about eating.

WAGASHI WILL REFINE YOURSWEETTOOTH

Sophisticated, seasonal, unlikely to make your teeth rot: there’s a lot to like about wagashi, Japan’s traditional sweets. These elegant morsels evolved as a complement to the tea ceremony, and were crafted in such a way that their shape, colour and flavour would subtly evoke the time of year. Today’s wagashi are just as classy, and forward-thinking sweet shops such as Tokyo’s Higashiya and Yokohama’s Kouro-an are putting a fresh spin on traditional techniques.

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CRAFT BEER IS ON THE RISE

Twenty years after Japan deregulated its beer industry – and after a ‘lost decade’ of fairly awful microbrews – the craft beer scene is in rude health. It’s not all hoppedup IPAs, either: the likes of Baird Brewing, Coedo and Y Market Brewing are using local, seasonal ingredients to make some only-in-Japan beers too.

037 ONE WORD: ONIGIRI

TO TURN YOUR FOOD INTO ART? GO AHEAD 036 WANT

If you want a pocket-sized snack that will keep you going for a few hours, there’s nothing quite like an onigiri (rice ball). Every convenience store offers a wide variety of these nourishing treats, with typical fillings including umeboshi (pickled plums), salmon and mentaiko (seasoned cod roe), wrapped in a layer of nori seaweed.

038

EVEN THE LUNCHBOXES ARE INSPIRED

Why settle for a sandwich and a packet of crisps when you can have a well-balanced meal? The bento lunchbox puts most other takeaway options to shame, and there’s a dizzying variety on offer in Japan.

Bento artists such as Mari Miyazawa transform their ingredients into cartoon characters, giving new meaning to the phrase ‘playing with your food’.

You’ll never look at sushi the same way again after encountering the work of Tama-chan. Known to her friends as Takayo Kiyota, the illustrator and sushi artist sculpts multicoloured makizushi rolls to resemble everything from Buddha statues to ukiyo-e prints and Vermeer paintings. Good, wholesome fun, in other words.

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Real estate doesn’t come cheap in major Japanese cities, and bar and restaurant owners have adapted by squeezing into every available space. Many of the best spots to eat and drink in cities like Tokyo and Osaka are crammed into locations barely any larger than a student bedsit, resulting in a gloriously intimate experience.

YOU CAN HAVE A THEME PARK WITH YOUR DINNER

Like an izakaya and amusement park ride rolled into one, Japan’s theme restaurants offer some of the most bizarre dining experiences imaginable. Whether you want to eat in a zombie-infested prison hospital (that’d be Alcatraz E.R. in Shibuya), have your food served by ninjas (Ninja Akasaka), or spend an evening inside the pages of ‘Alice in Wonderland’ (Alice’s Fantasy Restaurant, which has seven branches nationwide), there’s something to suit most proclivities.

The newest – and cutest – addition to the ranks is the just-opened Kawaii Monster Cafe in Harajuku (kawaiimonster.jp), a lysergic, dayglo fantasia created by artist and Kyary Pamyu Pamyu collaborator Sebastian Masuda.

Kawaii Monster Cafe OKONOMIYAKI: MANABU MOROOKA, WAGASHI: ANNEMARIE LUCK, TAMA-CHAN'S 'BAREFOOT MERMAID': © MITSURU MARUYAMA, BENTO: USAKO/PIXTA, ALLEYWAY, ONIGIRI, MATCHA, GOBO, NATTO, GOYA, COLLAGEN: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

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COSINESS IS AVIRTUE

WE DON’T NEED KALE. WE’VE GOT THESE…

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Matcha Used in traditional tea ceremonies, the antioxidant-rich, powdered green tea is also a popular flavouring in ice creams and desserts.

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Gobo The long, slender root vegetable, also known as burdock, contains ample antioxidants and is believed to be effective against high blood pressure.

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Natto They may not look appetising, but these pungent, fermented soybeans are rich in vitamin K2 and probiotics that keep your gut healthy.

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Goya A staple of Okinawan cuisine, the appropriately named bitter melon is a good source of Vitamin C, and said to lower blood sugar levels.

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Collagen Japan helped kickstart the trend for ingesting this skin-rejuvenating protein. You can get collagen-infused hotpots, health drinks – even beer.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 27

Promotional feature

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LOCAL INSIGHT

EVEN THE CANNED FOOD IS DELICIOUS T

Tokusen Akebono Crab Leg Meat

Foreign team: HHH Japanese team: HHH Who would imagine that this small can could be packed with such authentic crab meat? If you can get past the rather strong aroma, you’ll be impressed by how tender it is. This is like crab meat for royals (it even costs ¥9,800!).

Sanma Kabayaki

here is probably no other nation on earth that loves to put things in cans the way the Japanese do. Besides the staple canned foods like salmon and mackerel, you can buy pretty much anything in tins here – from the kind of top class red king crab you usually only see at luxury restaurants, to roast chicken, volcanic ash, or even air captured at the peak of Mt Fuji.

It’s a mystery when exactly this love affair with canned foods began, but the reason is pretty obvious: the kind we make in Japan is really quite delicious. Here, we introduce you to 10 high-quality examples from Maruha Nichiro Corporation. To make things a little more interesting, we asked both the foreign and local editors at Time Out Tokyo to rate* each one – do you think the flavours will go down equally well? *Star rating is out of three

La Cantine Balsamico

Foreign team: HHH Japanese team: HHH Prepared with the popular flavour of ‘kabayaki’ (a sweet and sticky soy-based sauce used for grilling fresh fish), this local sanma (saury) has a genuine barbecue taste that appeals to universal palates.

Foreign team:HHH Japanese team: HH The charm of this new series lies in their quality sauce and their trendy packaging that goes against the canned-food norm. Out of the different flavours on offer, this one is especially popular for dipping bread.

Sardines in Ume Sauce

Tokusen Red Salmon Chazuke

Foreign team: H½ Japanese team: HH½ Sardines and ume? Some may find this combo strange, but have faith in the delicate palate of the Japanese and give it a try! The slightly sour taste is highly addictive.

Foreign team: HH½ Japanese team: HH½ This product superbly mimics the taste of fresh salmon. It’s salty and fatty, so we recommend eating it with rice or toast and salad. Although it didn’t get the top rating, it got the nod from everyone on both teams.

Tinned Smoked Mackerel

Foreign team: HH½ Japanese team: H½ Smoked mackerel is a flavour that’s found worldwide so it was interesting to note the drop in score on this one. The Japanese team in particular found the taste to be a little plain.

Chicken Ga-Prao from Thailand

Foreign team: H½ Japanese team: HH½ This canned food series is themed after Asian cuisine and faithfully reproduces the authentic spicy taste of Thai dishes. Pair it with white rice for maximum enjoyment.

Products available from Maruha Nichiro Plaza, 1F Toyosu Front, 3-2-20 Toyosu, Koto-ku, Tokyo, 03 6833 0280.

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YOU CAN GO TO AN ART ISLAND. THREE, IN FACT Since 1992, a sleepy island in the Seto Island Sea has been slowly transforming into a modern art sanctuary, teeming with galleries, site-specific installations and architecture that blends into the landscape. As if Naoshima wasn’t impressive enough, it now has siblings, Teshima and Inujima, with stunning art shrines of their own.

IS A NATIONAL PASTIME 048 REMIXING

The rise of otaku has made remixing a central part of pop culture. Fanmade dojinshi art concocts new (and lewd) storylines for characters from popular manga, open-source Vocaloid star Hatsune Miku lends her voice to thousands of songs produced by fans, and Nico Nico Douga is awash with the aptly named ‘MAD movies’ – hilarious remixes of TV shows, ads and anime.

ARE IN FOR A FEAST 049 BIBLIOPHILES

There’s more to Japanese fiction than Haruki Murakami, you know.

The literary scene is ripe with talent at the moment, as authors including Hiromi Kawakami, Hideo Furukawa, Risa Wataya, Tomoyuki Hoshino and Yoko Ogawa (all woefully underrepresented in English translation) take the modern novel in new and unexpected directions.

NAOSHIMA ART ISLAND: AISTE RIABOVAITE, SHOES: ANNEMARIE LUCK

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ANY MESSAGE CAN BE MANGA-FIED

In a nation raised on comics, it’s only natural that manga would end up being used to educate as well as entertain. School textbooks aside, there’s a rich library of informational manga on topics ranging from disaster preparedness to social security reform, making even the dreariest of subjects accessible.

051 BONSAI AIN’T DEAD YET

Bonsai, the millenniumold art of cultivating miniature trees, may not seem like the most obvious candidate for a high-tech makeover, but Makoto Azuma has managed just that. The selfdescribed flower artist has been taking bonsai to some unexpected places recently, from fashion shows to an abandoned power plant in

Belgium. Most famously, in 2014 he sent a 50-year-old white pine bonsai up into space, as part of his ‘Exbiotanica’ project.

052

THE POP MUSIC IS DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT

With international pop music reaching peak homogeneity – as artists from Sweden to South Korea enlist the same genre styles, songwriters and production techniques to craft songs that sound staggering similar – thank heavens Japan has remembered how to be different. Love ’em or loathe ’em, Oricon chart heavyweights like AKB48, Exile and Arashi couldn’t be mistaken for music from anywhere else. Meanwhile, some mutant strains of J-pop have been finding

a well-deserved audience overseas, from Babymetal’s inspired idol-mosh mash-ups to Kyary Pamyu Pamyu’s kawaii singalongs, Scandal’s chipper pop-rock and Perfume’s 22ndcentury electro-pop.

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THERE’S A MASCOT FOR EVERYTHING. MAYBE THREE

In recent years, a pot-bellied, rosecheeked bear has been giving Hello Kitty and co. a run for their money.

But Kumamon is no ordinary cartoon character: he’s an official mascot, originally created in 2010 to promote a new bullet train link to Kumamoto Prefecture in southern Kyushu.

Japan is home to thousands of such mascots, known as yuru-kyara, which supply a cute public face to everything from local industries to police forces

and prisons. There are so many, in fact, that the Finance Ministry proposed a nationwide cull last year.

POP STARS ARE ALREADY A REALITY 054 VIRTUAL

When William Gibson’s ‘Idoru’ came out in 1995, the idea of a holographic pop star still qualified as science fiction. Not any more: in 2014, Hatsune Miku – a bluehaired avatar whose voice is created using vocal synthesiser Vocaloid – opened for Lady Gaga in the States and performed live on ‘Late Show With David Letterman’. For many overseas viewers, it was their first taste of Japan’s hugely popular Vocaloid scene, an alternate-reality J-pop universe where the stars are all virtual.

055 WE’VE GOT THE

WORLD’S BEST SECOND-HAND SHOPS The petite size of the average Japanese home makes life difficult for hoarders, but a bonanza for second-hand shoppers. With people constantly shedding their unwanted clobber, there’s never a shortage of products for the nation’s many impeccably stocked recycle shops and vintage clothing emporia – and you can find bargains aplenty.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 29

ART, CULTURE AND FASHION

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WE’VE GOT THE BEST MUSIC FESTS IN ASIA

Though they’re facing increasing competition from events in South Korea and China, Japan’s outdoor music festivals are still the top dogs in the region. Fuji Rock Festival is the closest you’ll get to an Asian version of Glastonbury or Roskilde, while the twin-city Summer Sonic serves up big-name pop and EDM acts at locations within easy striking distance of central Tokyo and Osaka. There’s also a vibrant scene of festivals that specialise in homegrown acts, including Rock in Japan and Rising Sun.

IN JAPAN’ IS KEEPING TRADITIONAL ARTS ALIVE 057 ‘MADE Japan has one of the richest artisan cultures in the world, but with many traditional crafts requiring long and demanding apprenticeships, they’ve been at risk of dying out. That’s all starting to change, as an increasing number of fashion and product designers find new uses for age-old techniques. At department stores such as Coredo Muromachi in central Tokyo, there’s an explicit emphasis on ‘Made in Japan’ products, which are updating traditional crafts while shedding some of their fustier associations. Win-win.

SCARY MONSTERS ARE IN A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN 058 THE While Western writers content themselves with endless rehashes of vampire, werewolf and zombie

tropes, Japan has a much broader pantheon of spooks and monsters to draw on. Collectively known as yokai, these range from yurei – best represented by Sadako, the vengeful wraith in horror movie ‘Ringu’ – to magical foxes and Akaname, the notorious ‘bathroom licker’. They bring a ghoulish edge to many manga and anime: try current kids’ favourite ‘Yokai Watch’, or Shigeru Mizuki’s classic series ‘GeGeGe no Kitaro’.

ARE CELEBRATED 059 OBSESSIONS

One of the biggest shifts in Japanese pop culture since the early 2000s has been the rise of otaku, the obsessive fans who gorge on anime, videogames and idol pop. But the country was a hotbed of hobbyists long before the

30 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

otaku went mainstream. Wander around the unashamedly nerdcentric Nakano Broadway mall in Tokyo, and you’ll find shops devoted not just to manga, cosplay and figurines, but also model trains, lucha libre masks, antique dolls and accessories shaped like cats. It’s like nothing is too niche.

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THE ARCHITECTURE IS WORLD-CLASS

It’s no secret that Japan’s architects are among the best in the world; only the United States has produced more winners of the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize, the industry’s answer to the Nobel.

2014 laureate Shigeru Ban is perhaps the prize’s worthiest winner to date: his pioneering use of paper tubing has allowed him to create temporary structures for disaster

survivors in countries including Rwanda, Japan and, most recently, Nepal. While there’s much to admire in the concrete edifices of earlier masters such as Tadao Ando and Kenzo Tange, Ban is crafting a sustainable, humane architecture for the future.

CULTURE IS STILL THRIVING 061 ANALOGUE

Remember Tower Records?

The once-mighty chain of music emporiums is still alive and well in Japan. Digital media may be booming, but consumers haven’t lost their love for the analogue here, whether it’s magazines, books or vinyl. Bibliophiles are advised to start at the expansive Daikanyama T-Site, a shrine to print media, while crate diggers should head to one of the many branches of Disk Union.

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IT’S ALL ABOUT THE LITTLE THINGS Sticklers for detail will be in heaven here. Pay close attention, and you’ll discover thoughtful touches in some unexpected places, from the localised designs adorning manhole covers to the station-specific melodies that play when train doors are closing. Even humdrum packaging isn’t spared – witness the fish-shaped soy sauce bottles included in bento boxes.

WE’RE STILL INSPIRING FASHION TRENDS

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FUJI ROCK: JAMES HADFIELD, MANHOLE, VISOR ON THE STREET: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, VISOR ON THE CATWALK: ANTONIO DE MORAES BARROS FILHO/GETTY IMAGES

THERE’S A SOLUTION FOR EVERYTHING – EVEN YOU-KNOWWHAT Japan has a well-deserved reputation for attention to detail, and that extends to life’s unmentionables, too. The greater Tokyo area has over 50 branches of Takarajima 24, an internet café specifically geared to customers who want to watch porn (they even give you a condom when you check in). And then there’s Tenga, the ‘Apple of adult goods’, whose stylish masturbation aids and luxury vibrators have picked up Red Dot Awards for their sophisticated product design.

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ON THE STREET

THE REVOLUTIONARY BRIEFS

Wondering what this sexy golden pair of men’s briefs is doing on the list? Well, it’s made by local brand TOOT, which is credited with revolutionising the way Japanese men view their underwear. Since the brand’s launch in 2001, its premium fabrics, artisanship and styles have by all accounts turned men onto the value of expressing their individuality through their underpants.

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KARAOKE KEEPS ON GETTING BETTER

Even people who profess an abject hatred of karaoke may be forced to reconsider after a visit to the glitzy Pasela Resorts chain or the lavishly equipped Karaoke Adores in Akihabara, which has booths where aspiring axe gods can practise their guitar licks. The karaoke industry just keeps on moving forward: recent innovations include Joysound Musicpost, which lets users upload songs, and an initiative by NTT to make karaoke machines easier for elderly people and foreigners to use.

066

IT’S A BRAND THING

Don’t just take our word for it about how great this place is. Last year, Japan came first in FutureBrand’s Country Brand Index, which rates nations on factors ranging from awareness to whether they evoke positive

associations. Beating out Germany and Switzerland to the top spot, the country was ranked particularly highly for its business potential, heritage and culture, and the quality of its products. Can’t argue with that.

067 MOVE OVER, LEVI’S

The secret’s out: long championed by obsessive bloggers, Japanese selvedge denim is starting to attract mainstream attention.

Okayama-based brands such as Evisu and Momotaro take an oldschool approach to manufacturing, using vintage shuttle looms and natural indigo dyes to produce fabric that’s prized for its distinctive texture, colour and durability. Japan’s artisanal denim is now increasingly in demand, too: UK high street fashion brand Topman recently teamed up with Okayama’s Kurabo Mills to produce a limited-edition range of clothing.

ON THE CATWALK

068 Darth Vader style

Sure, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen caused a kerfuffle when they brought the visor back to the catwalk in 2012, but Japanese grannies had been sporting them for years to shield their skin from UV rays.

Take that, fashionistas.

069 Kabuki chic

New York designer Thom Browne went the whole geisha with his Spring 2016 menswear collection, featuring kimono suits and geta clogs. This high-fashion tribute to Japan makes a lot of sense: the country is Browne’s biggest market.

070 Origami all around

Fashion designers including Calvin Klein and Gareth Pugh have found inspiration in the techniques and motifs of origami, but recently it’s been turning up in furniture too, from Julie Walbel’s ‘cone’ seats to Tracey Tubb’s folded wallpaper.

071 Foot wrapping

Searching for a follow-up to its minimalist FiveFingers shoe, Italian footwear brand Vibram turned to the traditional wrapping cloth known as furoshiki. The company’s namesake shoe is a gripped outsole that wraps around the wearer’s foot. Nifty.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 31

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072 JAPANIMATION! Introducing the studio that’s paving the way for a new kind of digital animation in Japan.

Words Dai Yoshida

W

hen people imagine what it’s like to work at a Japanese animation studio, they usually visualise piles of drawings stacked up high and a group of exhausted-looking creatives who’ve been working steadily with little pay or sleep. Studio Colorido, however, is bucking the overworked-underpaid industry trend, and its office space looks more like an orderly IT startup with a bright future.

The company, which is set in the regenerated Tokyo Bay district of Tennozu Isle, is an up-and-coming animation studio founded by Hideo Uda. A former corporate planning manager of a largescale electronics manufacturer, Uda gained experience in the animation industry by working on Gonzo’s ‘Saikano’ and Khara’s ‘Neon Genesis Evangelion’. After experiencing first-hand the harsh working conditions, Uda vowed to open a studio of his own where employees could work in a more

comfortable environment. ‘The turnover rate is high [in this business]. This is because of long working hours and low wages; I want to improve this first.’ Uda has also had to find a solution to make up for lack of funding, so he branched out into digital animation.

THE DIGITAL FUTURE At Colorido, one of the youngest and most talented employees is Yojiro Arai. At just 26 years old, he directed the anime ‘Taifu no Noruda’, which debuted in June this year. Arai began his career as an animator at Studio Ghibli. But even though he was working for one of the most revered animation studios in the world, he felt the need to find an outlet for his overflowing creativity. ‘There were things I wanted to do, and in such an already perfected environment I felt constrained.’

Around the same time, Hiroyasu Ishida, known for the independent animation ‘Fumiko’s

At just 26 years old, Arai directed ‘Taifu no Noruda’

32 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Confession’, reached out to him. Ishida works for Colorido and invited Arai to the studio. ‘Colorido has extensive digital animation know-how, much of it brought in by Ishida. In a way, he is my rival, but I respect him,’ says Arai.

Colorido is indeed committed to digital animation. By using liquid crystal pen tablets, they are able to maintain the hand-painted style of traditional Japanese animation while greatly reducing the workload. This has a huge impact on the workplace.

Kentaro Kurisaki, who is in charge of checking the final videos, says, ‘One of the features that allows us to be very thorough when it comes to movement is the ability to preview and play back freshly completed work. However, the biggest change that this technology has brought about is the communication between the staff.’ Within a traditional Japanese animation studio, work flow is usually as follows: the chief animator first draws the original beginning, middle and end point of motion. Then the head video animator draws the parts in the middle to make the motion smooth.

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OTHER ANIME BY STUDIO COLORIDO

‘Taifu no Noruda’ (left, above and right) Released in June 2015, this is Yojiro Arai’s debut as an anime director.

The film is set at a school in Japan where students must wait for a typhoon to pass. Two friends have been arguing when they meet a mystery girl called Noruda and must figure out her connection to the storm. Notable scenes that show off the excellent animation include the two boys running and the depiction of the swirling typhoon standing in Noruda’s way.

‘TAIFU NO NORUDA’ IMAGES: ©2015 TYPHOON NORUDA COMMITTEE, ‘HINATA NO AOSHIGURE’: ©STUDIO COLORIDO, ‘MARUKOME CM’: ©MARUKOME CO., LTD., ‘FASTENING DAYS’: ©YKK CORPORATION, KURISAKI: YASUHISA SHIMBO

While this system is very efficient, the downside is that it’s very similar to an assembly line; animators find it hard to imagine what their drawn portion will look like when complete. The answer to this problem is communicating through a digital animation system. ‘For each section of work, we share and check what the finished product will look like through a movie on the display. Every animator will then have a clear picture of what they need to do before starting work. The digital tools are also helpful when passing on one’s work to colleagues,’ says Kurisaki.

‘Taifu no Noruda’ is full of these digital animation techniques. Despite being only 26 minutes long, it has a total of around 18,000 frames. When you realise that the average 30-minute-or-so anime tops out at around 10,000 frames, you get a sense of just how much extra animation they were able to fit in.

Arai describes the film: ‘It’s a story about two boys who get in a fight and then make up. We

Hinata no Aoshigure (2013)

want the viewers to get a deep sense of their relationship. We worked hard on the motion, the rain, the wind, and other parts of nature.’

Kurisaki, on the other hand, says that he wants viewers to pay attention to scenes featuring a Colorido speciality: camera mapping. 3D models are pasted onto the background and technology is used to make the characters move around on this background, satisfying fans of both hand-drawn and CG animation. Why is this important? Because while Disney and Pixar have built up a reputation for their 3D animation, Japan’s industry has preferred to stick to the old-fashioned hand-drawn style. There is a certain charm to this style that doesn’t exist in 3D. And while Colorido doesn’t intend to entirely abandon this traditional style, they are definitely paving the way for innovative techniques and technologies that just might lower resistance to 3D anime in Japan. Watch this animated space.

Directed by Hiroyasu Ishida, this is the tale of elementary school student Hinata, who secretly falls in love with his classmate, Shigure. One day, the shy and reserved Shigure, unable to make conversation with her peers, transfers to another school. Hinata, desperate to express his feelings for Shigure, sets out to find her.

Marukome CM (2015)

A series of commercials for miso and food manufacturer Marukome. The commercials are titled ‘Mother and Son’, ‘Working Away’ and ‘Supper’, with the first one telling the story about the family bonds of parents and children living far away from each other. ‘Mother and Son’ was directed

by Yojiro Arai.

Fastening Days (2014)

Kurisaki at work

This commercial was created for the world’s largest zipper manufacturer YKK, and has been aired multiple times abroad. The protagonists are a boy and girl who live in a city in the near future, and the ending theme of the ad is sung by famous Japanese band Perfume.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 33

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LIFESTYLE

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WE TAKE CUSTOMER SERVICE TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL

‘O-mo-te-na-shi.’ Speaking before the International Olympic Committee in 2013, in support of Tokyo’s winning bid to host the 2020 Games, bid ambassador Christel Takigawa stressed the importance of Japanese-style hospitality. And if the way she pronounced the word – pausing between each syllable for emphasis – prompted a few giggles at home, the message rang true. Meticulous, deferential and disarmingly polite, customer service in Japan can be a wonder to behold, and that’s not just true of the luxury ryokan (traditional inns) and Ginza department stores. Even the shop assistants in Uniqlo take their omotenashi very seriously indeed.

LIFE IS OUTRAGEOUSLY CONVENIENT 074 CITY Japan has over 50,000 convenience stores nationwide, most of them absurdly well stocked, with facilities ranging from ATMs and photocopiers to public toilets and dry cleaning services. More impressive still is the tally of vending machines: over five million, or one for every 25 people.

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THERE ARE NO RAIL STRIKES

Technical expertise and careful management aren’t the only things that make Japan’s public transport system so reliable.

Thanks to a variety of factors, from the waning influence of unions to an ingrained customer service mentality, there hasn’t been a major rail strike in the country since 1992.

HOME DELIVERIES ACTUALLY ARRIVE WHEN 076 YOU WANT THEM TO

There’s no need to spend a whole day waiting at home for a package

to arrive. Offering the convenience of a courier service without the ruinous expense, Japanese home delivery companies let customers choose exactly when they want a parcel to turn up – and even let them pay cash-on-delivery.

ARE REALLY, REALLY GOOD AT QUEUING 077 PEOPLE When Blue Bottle Coffee opened in

Tokyo in February 2015, customers queued up to three hours just to get a cup. Waiting in line is a national pastime in Japan, and it’s been refined to a high art: passengers form orderly queues on station platforms, and you hardly ever have to worry about people cutting in.

LOCAL HIGH STREETS ARE STILL GOING STRONG 079 THE

While big-box stores dominate the retail landscape in rural Japan, city dwellers still do much of their shopping in their neighbourhood shotengai. These old-school arcades can be found throughout the larger cities, and while some

are faring better than others, they’re always interesting, packed full of small eateries, family-run businesses and lots of local flavour.

CAN DRINK 080 YOU ANYWHERE, ANYTIME

On the corner, in the park, riding the train: there are no restrictions on public drinking in Japan, meaning you can hit the bottle wherever you like.

With alcohol on sale 24/7 at many convenience stores, as well as a plethora of late-night bars and izakaya keeping the liquor flowing, you can drink whenever you like, too.

078

THERE ARE LIVELY TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS HAPPENING YEAR-ROUND Age-old traditions are kept vividly alive at Japan’s matsuri, the boisterous street festivals that erupt throughout the year. There are few more inspiring spectacles than watching local residents don traditional garb and haul heavy portable shrines through the streets, to the accompaniment of taiko drumming and lots of sake.

FLOOR CULTURE ROCKS

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Tatami Fashioned from tightly woven rice straw, tatami mats have been the flooring of choice in Japanese homes for centuries. It absorbs carbon dioxide, regulates humidity, and is comfortable enough to sleep on.

082

Futon Speaking of sleeping on the floor: futons are the perfect complement for a tatami room. Firmer than the average Western mattress, they’re also easy to fold up and stow away, meaning you can use a single room for multiple purposes.

083 Tea ceremony

You’d think that a centuries-old ritual devoted to making a cuppa wouldn’t have many modern adherents. In fact, many people continue to study tea ceremony. For the rest of us, it’s a handy introduction to Japanese aesthetics.

34 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

084

Kotatsu Winter is the best time of year to appreciate Japan’s floor culture.

Homes tend not to have central heating, so families snuggle around a kotatsu, a squat table with an electric heater built into its belly. It makes every evening feel like a slumber party.

085

No shoes Some Japanese customs seem odd. Others, like the tradition of removing your shoes on entering a home, don’t brook any argument.

The habit is so ingrained that you’ll even see children slip their shoes off before standing on the seats of trains.

[ C U LT U R E S H O C K ]

IS ACTUALLY A THING 086 ALL-YOU-CAN-DRINK

In a binge-drinking nation like the UK, any establishment offering free-flowing drinks at budget prices would probably go out of business within the week. In Japan, cheap nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) deals are standard at a lot of izakaya and karaoke boxes – and if you’re an even moderate drinker, they can be an absolute steal.

DON’T HAVE TO TIP – EVER 087 YOU

While restaurants in the US are only just starting to experiment with enforcing no-tipping policies, Japan is already way ahead of the curve.

Waiters, taxi drivers, hotel porters: you don’t have to tip any of them, and they’ll actively rebuff you if you so much as try. Haggling is rare, too: what you see is what you get.

088

LOST-AND-FOUND ACTUALLY WORKS

When you lose something here, there’s a good chance that you’ll actually get it back. It’s easy for people to turn in lost items at the nearest police box (koban), and they tend not to pilfer the contents first. Last year, Tokyo’s Metropolitan Police Department Lost & Found Center processed nearly ¥3.5 billion in cash that had been turned in by the public, three quarters of which made it back to the original owners.

FIREWORKS WILL 089 THE MAKE YOUR JAW DROP

Think you’ve seen some impressive fireworks in your time? Wait until you witness the bombastic displays that happen throughout Japan during the summer months: the largest events, like the Suwa Lake Fireworks Festival in Nagano Prefecture, use a staggering 40,000 fireworks.

CUSTOMER SERVICE, TATAMI, FUTON, TEA CEREMONY: SHUTTERSTOCK, FESTIVAL: JAMES HADFIELD, KOTATSU, NO SHOES: PIXTA, GARDEN: ANNEMARIE LUCK, PUBLIC BATH: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

THE BIRTHPLACE OF EMOJI 090 IT’S

the passing year. Unlike the ‘Word of the Year’ tradition in countries like Germany and Norway, it’s less focused on buzzwords – and, crucially, the public gets to do the voting.

092 THE GARDENS ARE

STORES: RETAIL HEAVEN 097 DEPARTMENT

EXQUISITE

For a taste of retail paradise, go to a Japanese department store when the doors open in the morning, and watch in awe as the staff line up to greet customers with a bow. In a country where shopping is akin to religion, department stores are the high temples.

Many have tried, but nobody does Zen shrubbery quite like Japan’s gardeners. You can still find beautiful traditional gardens in the middle of major cities, where they provide a serene – and slightly surreal – oasis amidst the din of modernity.

CAN FIND A NICHE FOR (NEARLY) EVERYTHING 098 YOU

FLYERS ARE ACTUALLY HANDY 093 IT’S A NATION OF CYCLISTS 095 THE

From schoolchildren to salarymen, young parents to pensioners, everyone seems to cycle here. There are an estimated 72 million bicycles in Japan, and 14 percent of all journeys in Tokyo are made by bike. Only a handful of countries in northern Europe boast higher usage rates.

Most people aren’t interested in being given leaflets, so Japanese companies started bundling their flyers with stuff that people did want. Tissues are the most popular option, and in the summer you can snag a complimentary uchiwa fan outside most stations.

WON’T MIND MINDING A CHARACTER YOUR MANNERS FOR EVERY YEAR 094 YOU 096 THERE’S If you’re going to tell someone how to act, you might as well do it imaginatively. For decades, Tokyo Metro’s subway manner posters have been using smart, witty designs to encourage people to behave a little better towards each other. What’s not to like?

Each December, the Japanese Kanji Proficiency Society unveils the character that best represents

100

Restaurants that specialise in a single dish, shops that specialise in a single product, bars that specialise in a single type of drink: none are considered remotely unusual in Japan. It’s all just a question of finding your niche.

099 A CAT CAN SAVE A COMPANY

Faced with closure, a lossmaking railway line in Wakayama Prefecture revived its fortunes in an unusual way: by appointing a stray cat as a stationmaster. Though Tama-chan passed away earlier this year, her popularity helped restore Wakayama Electric Railway to profitability – and she now has a successor, Nitama (Tama the Second).

THE PUBLIC BATHING CULTURE IS OH SO REFRESHING

For a nation with a reputation of being a bit uptight, Japan is awfully blasé when it comes to getting naked with strangers. Whether you’re taking a dip at an onsen (hot-spring) resort or a neighbourhood sento (public bath), you’ll have to leave your inhibitions where you left your clothes: in the changing room. The bathing culture can take a while to get used to, but it’s worth persevering. Thermal onsen waters have a range of therapeutic effects, while a trip to the sento can be a fascinating social experience. The practice of washing before you get in the bath is something that more Westerners might learn to emulate, too.

A staple of every smartphone, the cute ideograms known as emoji were originally created by NTT Docomo employee Shigetaka Kurita, who drew on manga and kanji characters for inspiration. Instant messaging app Line takes the idea even further with its vast (and mildly insane) library of stickers.

TO A HAIR SALON IS 091 AA TRIP TRIP TO PARADISE

Wander past many Japanese hair salons and you’ll see the staff practising late into the night. As if their precision hairdressing techniques weren’t enough, salons habitually shower customers with perks, from complimentary drinks to free ear cleaning and head and shoulder massages.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 35

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10 THINGS G-SHOCK MT-G DOES BETTER The multitasking Casio watch just got even smarter

LOCAL INSIGHT

MT-G GPS HYBRID MTG-G1000D-1A2 ¥160,000 (excl tax)

For more information

1

Determines local time, even in the middle of the desert Casio developed the world’s first hybrid system that combines GPS satellite radio waves with standard radio waves. This means that even when you’re in areas with poor reception, it’s still possible to determine local time accurately.

It’s 3pm already? Stop the caravan, it’s tea time!

2

Resists all kinds of shock

The G-SHOCK MT-G boasts a shock resistance so great that even daredevil pilots swear by it. What’s the secret? The Triple G Resist function, which can withstand powerful gravitational forces and violent vibrations.

4

Sheds light

Whether you’re on a long-haul flight and the lights are out, or you’re off on an adventure and waiting to see the aurora in pitch darkness, you’ll still be able to tell the time with MT-G. Its dial is illuminated with a high-intensity LED, ensuring clear visibility at all times.

Switches 5 between cities at the touch of a button

Who says multifunctional watches are difficult to operate? With MT-G, you can switch between home time and local time at the touch of a button. There’s no need to carry that thick user manual around.

7

Stays loyal for life

Featuring a layer of fine resin panels that are smooth to the touch and have low thermal conductivity, the solid stainless steel band is light and comfortable to wear. It also ensures less wear and tear than conventional urethane bands, so you know you can depend on this timepiece for years to come.

Combines 9 delicacy and toughness How does the MT-G mix functionality with elegance? The trick is in combining an extremely robust scratch-resistant titanium body with a highly specialised and elegant textured polishing technique, which only a handful of experts in Japan practise.

Keeps you Employs 8 on time, no matter what zone 10 Japanese manufacturing you’re in

The hassle of figuring out time-zone differences is no more. MT-G has the ability to display the time in two different cities on one watch face, so no matter where you are in the world, you’ll be able to instantly compare the local time with the time back home. Even when distracted by a dazzling Himalayan night sky, a simple glance at your watch will remind you that it’s time to make that goodnight call to your family.

techniques

From design to parts manufacturing and even assembly, Casio performs virtually the entire watch-making process at its own factory in Yamagata, Japan. The brand’s highend product lines, including MT-G, are Casio masterpieces, issued from premium production lines with personal workmanship, assimilating artisanal craftsmanship with LSI technology.

Where to buy your G-SHOCK MT-G watch

3

Maintains its core strength

What really sets MT-G apart is its Core Guard Structure, which guards the watch’s resin core with metal frames secured with screws cushioned by Alpha GEL. It’s this gel that makes the Triple G Resist function so effective as it absorbs external vibrations.

6

Beats the glare

MT-G’s face is protected by sapphire crystal mineral glass with an antiglare coating, ensuring you’re never affected by the sun’s reflection when trying to read your watch.

on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit world.casio.com

G-SHOCK STORE MARUNOUCHI 3F Kitte Marunouchi, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03 3217 2026 Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun & hols 11am-8pm

G-SHOCK STORE ODAIBA 3F Aquacity Odaiba, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03 3599 2251 Daily 11am-9pm

Eating & Drinking

Eating & Drinking

Can’t find an early-morn breakfast?

We know, it’s damn near impossible in Tokyo. But we’ve made it our mission to bring you five delicious breakfasts, all served from 7am. A round of applause for Ili Saarinen (words) and Yasuhisa Shimbo (photographs)

G

etting a decent breakfast in Tokyo is no problem at all – unless you’d actually like to have your morning meal in, uh, the morning. Until very recently, the pickings have been extremely slim for early risers, limited mainly to the ubiquitous convenience stores and centrally located branches of Starbucks and smoky local competitor Doutor. And even though things have improved, pancakes, French toast, acaí bowls and other trendy treats – breakfasty as their origins may be – are apparently only fit to be served hours after your average salaryman has clocked in at the office.

Still, the belated brunch revolution that’s been shaking up the city’s restaurant scene over the past five years or so is, slowly but surely, also impacting earlymorning eating. Spotting a breakfast joint worthy of the moniker remains a challenge, but it’s now become one well worth taking up. We set our alarm clocks, crawled out of bed before dawn, and embarked on a quest to find Tokyo’s top early-bird eateries, all open from no later than 7am.

SAWAMURA

Best for: freshly baked treats and piping hot omelettes Hailing from the resort town of Karuizawa, the sleek and stylish but homely Sawamura deals in artisanal bread, pastries and a range of savoury baked treats on the quieter side of Hiroo, a brisk walk north from the station towards Nishi-Azabu. Take your pick of excellent croissants, sourdough rolls, quiche and the like at the ground-floor café, or head upstairs to the restaurant for more substantial meals. The breakfast menu lists six set options, from Nicoise-style salad to sausage, eggs and bacon: we’re especially fond of the fluffy Spanish-style omelettes, served in a hot iron pan and accompanied by a plate with salad, veggie appetisers and Sawamura’s signature toast, plus coffee, tea or juice. An accurate English menu is available, and the service is relaxed but impeccably friendly. 5-1-6 Minami-Azabu, Minato (Hiroo Station). 03 5421 8686. b-sawamura.com/hiroo (Japanese only).

Café open daily 7am-10pm, breakfast served 7am-10am.

38 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BONDI COFFEE SANDWICHES

Best for: whole-grain goodness Although Bondi sits right behind the University of Tokyo’s Komaba campus, the clientele is more Shibuya office lady than future bureaucrat at this hip café specialising in – you guessed it – sandwiches. With an Australian surf atmosphere befitting the name, pop art on the walls, long communal benches and free wi-fi, it’s a comfy spot that just happens to also bake some of the best bread in the area. The whole-grain, fully vegan baguettes can be had with filling mixtures from chicken and avocado to all-veg and BLTE, none of which will set you back more than ¥650. We also love the flat white coffees and figure-friendly eggs benedict with avocado (¥850), slapped on top of a whole-grain loaf instead of the usual English muffin. A real Aussie brekkie on a Shibuya backstreet?

You best believe it. 2-22-8 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Komaba-Todaimae Station). 03 5738 7730. tinyurl.com/TOTbondi. Daily 7am-8pm.

IVY PLACE

IWASA SUSHI

Best for: the ultimate Tsukiji spread Breakfast at Tsukiji is an essential Tokyo experience, and one that tends to be better the earlier you arrive at the world-famous fish market. Most eateries both inside and around the market open at 6am and serve up their tastiest treats right from the get-go – arrive a few hours later and you’re likely to be greeted with ‘sold out’ signs and apologetic bows at the most popular spots. The folks behind Iwasa, one of these top purveyors, buy up the finest seafood available every day and turn it into trademark Tsukiji sushi, but their operation has so far managed to avoid the kind of tourist-inflicted overcrowding seen at some of the more centrally located shops.

For the whole nine yards, there’s no beating the 13-piece omakase (chef’s selection) set (¥3,600), although the tokujo (special) nigiri set (¥3,100) might make for a more gentle awakening for your innards. Tsukiji Market Bldg 1, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji-Shijo Station). 03 3544 1755. iwasasushi.com/en. Mon-Fri 6am-2.30pm, Sat 6am-3pm, closed Sun, hols and 2nd & 4th Wed of every month.

LA VIE (HILLTOP HOTEL)

Best for: orthodox washoku Entering the Hilltop Hotel in Ochanomizu is like stepping into a bygone era: formally dressed clerks move gracefully across the retro lobby, where mostly elderly Japanese patrons lounge on vintage leather couches, sipping whisky or scribbling in notebooks. We imagine this joint – once a regular hangout for Japan’s literati from Nobel Prize winner Yasunari Kawabata to ‘shitamachi poet’ Shotaro Ikenami – has hardly undergone any visible changes since it opened back in 1954. Served at the La Vie restaurant, the Hilltop’s venerable washoku breakfast has also stayed the same for decades: although the main dishes rotate daily, you can always look forward to an impeccably presented set of rice, miso soup, assorted tsukemono pickles, fish, tamagoyaki omelette and a side of stewed veg – a wonderful harmony of textures and flavours that’ll shake any lingering drowsiness right off. ¥2,200 (plus tax and service) for breakfast may sound steep, but you’re paying for more than just the grub here. 1-1 Kanda-Surugadai, Chiyoda (Ochanomizu, Jinbocho stations). 03 3293 2836. yamanoue-hotel.co.jp/eng/index.html.

Breakfast served daily 7am-10.30am.

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Eating & Drinking

Best for: pancakes in the garden Already something of an institution among Tokyo’s early risers, the effortlessly hip Ivy Place has been able to stay ahead of the competition with its generously sized but refined morning treats – and the location, part of Daikanyama’s T-Site and complete with a garden terrace, hasn’t hurt either. For a sweet start to the day, go for the classic buttermilk pancakes, served either simply with butter, maple syrup and honey, or with additional fruit toppings. The free coffee refills are always much appreciated as well, and help push Ivy Place’s breakfast into that rarefied category of meals that have the power to turn even the gloomiest of mornings into something productive – or at least that’s how we’d like to describe an entire day spent sniffing paper at Tsutaya Books next door. 16-15 Sarugakucho, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 6415 3232. www.tysons.jp/ ivyplace/en. Breakfast served daily 7am-10.45am.

Eating & Drinking

In search of N

o Japanese tea ceremony would be complete without wagashi. These exceptionally pretty confections are an integral part of the tradition and balance out bitter matcha tea with their sugary sweet azuki bean paste. You might think that by buying one of those plastic-wrapped azuki bean sweets from the konbini and pairing it with a cup of green tea at home counts as experiencing this time-honoured combination (they are still pretty tasty, even the ones from 7-Eleven). But until you’ve visited a proper Japanese teahouse, where the setting epitomises zen aesthetics and the wagashi is expertly made, you cannot truly appreciate it with all five senses – which is one of the points of the tradition.

FOR DESIGNER SWEETS: Yakumo Saryo This contemporary shop consists of a restaurant and a tea room, Sabo, which sells wagashi by confectionery brand Baishinka. It was founded by the owners of popular tea salon Higashiya, but what sets it apart from the latter is its seclusion.

It’s in a quiet neighbourhood and it boasts a garden of Japanese plum trees, which you can gaze at through a perfectly placed window in the tearoom. The tearoom itself is a quiet, dimly lit space featuring one large wooden table and a counter at the back where you can watch your waitress expertly frothing up your matcha. The menu is in Japanese, but if you ask for wagashi,

Annemarie Luck visits five unique teahouses to experience afternoon tea – the Japanese way

they’ll bring out a set of exquisite samples for you to choose from. All sweets are seasonal and cost from ¥220 per sweet. The azuki bean sweet we chose was the smoothest, most delicious we’ve ever tasted, while the matcha tea was the most bitter we’ve ever had (which we’re assuming is a good sign). 3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro (ToritsuDaigaku Station). 03 5731 1620. yakumosaryo.jp.

Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, closed Sun & pub hols.

FOR A TRADITIONAL HOME SETTING: Kosoan There are some things that Japan really gets right.

Tea is one of those things. Garden landscaping is another. And creating a calm space within a massive busy city is also right up there. Kosoan, which is set in an immaculate old Japanese house, offers all three. Taking our shoes off at the entrance, we breathed in grassy tatami and then found a spot on the floor around one of the low tables that dot the main tearoom. We ordered Matcha with Sweet (¥830), which arrived on a black tray, the bitter, creamy green tea served in a large deep bowl. The sweet on the side was a crystallisedsugar azuki bean treat, which cracked pleasantly as we sliced it up with a knife so tiny it is surely meant for dolls.

Knowing that the space was once someone’s home gives

From left: Kosoan, Kasoyo, Funabashiya Koyomi. Above: Yakumo Saryo

40 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Kosoan a wonderfully authentic feel. Actually, we felt so at home that we have begun to dream up scenarios in which this really is our home. 1-24-23 Jiyugaoka, Meguro (Jiyugaoka Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTkosoan. 11am-6.30pm, closed Wed. FOR TEA AND KIMONOS: Kasoyo Kasoyo is actually a kimono shop, which means you’ll get to drink matcha tea and snack on chewy but tasty tsukumo mochi while watching kimono maker Kotaro Nakano hand-sew his creations.

When we visited, he sat next to us and showed us how he ties little knots into the fabric, which he then dyes to create a kind of floral tie-dye pattern on the kimono material. Since the menu is in Japanese, we simply asked for wagashi with matcha (¥1,000). Sitting at a small wooden table, surrounded by kimono fabric and peering out antique wood-paned windows, this is a wonderful way to experience the look and feel of a well-preserved traditional home while enjoying an equally traditional tea set. 2-19-21 Shimo-Ochiai, Shinjuku (Mejiro Station).

03 3565 3265. tinyurl.com/ TOTkasoyo. Café usually open Thu-Sun, but check the calendar on their website as they often have irregular holidays.

KOSOAN, KASOYO, KANTOKU-TEI: ANNEMARIE LUCK, KUZU-MOCHI: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Eating & Drinking

WAGASHI

FOR TWO CENTURIES OF TALENT: Funabashiya Koyomi Kameido-based traditional confectioner Funabashiya marked its 200th anniversary by opening this shop and café in Hiroo in 2005.

The ground floor shop sells sweets for takeaway, but head upstairs to enjoy your dessert in the elegant café space. We ordered a plate of kuzumochi, a traditional Japanese summer dessert that comes with a modern twist: it’s gluten-free.

Chewing your way through kuzu-mochi, which is made from starchy kudzu (arrowroot), might not be as pleasing to the senses if it weren’t for the Japanese brown sugar syrup (similar to molasses) drizzled on top and the kinako powder, made from ground roasted soybeans, that floats on top and then mixes in to hold everything together in one harmonious mix of sweet goopiness. 5-17-1 Hiroo, Shibuya (Hiroo Station). 03 5449 2784. tinyurl.com/ TOTfunabashiya-koyomi. Daily 11am-8pm (café 11.30am-5pm).

MAKE YOUR OWN WAGASHI Try these sweet cooking classes

Simply Oishii Japanese Cooking Class Miyuki Suyari welcomes you into her home where she’ll teach you how to make traditional sweets for ¥6,000 per person (20% discount for groups of three or more). On October 16, she's holding a taster session for ¥3,500 per person. simplyoishii.weebly.com Buddha Bellies Cooking School Tokyo Within walking distance of the Imperial Palace, this award-winning cooking school offers wagashi-making classes for ¥5,400 per person in a cosy home environment. buddhabelliestokyo.jimdo.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 41

Eating & Drinking

The décor is a little rudimentary and you may find yourself sharing a table with a couple of salarymen who seem to flock here for the affordable lunch sets, but turn your attention towards the view and none of that will matter. Also, your matcha tea set will cost a mere ¥540. 1-6-6 Koraku, Bunkyo (Iidabashi, Korakuen stations). 03 3811 3015. tinyurl.com/TOTkoishikawa. Gardens: daily 9am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm, closed for New Year hols), admission ¥300, free English guided tours every Sat 10am & 1pm (no reservation needed).

FOR AN EXQUISITE GARDEN SETTING: Kantoku-tei: Kantoku-tei lunch 12pm-4pm The impressive Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens was (LO 3.30pm), built in 1629 and is designated as one of Japan’s dinner: Special Historic Sites as well as a Special Place of 5pm-8.30pm Scenic Beauty. Take a stroll around the beautifully (LO 7.50pm), not landscaped grounds with its picturesque ponds, fairy- open every day tale bridges and wealth of seasonal blossoms before so it’s best to call Kantoku-tei (also above) taking up a window seat inside Kantoku-tei tearoom. ahead to check.

BE YO ND

L L I R F

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Vivian Morelli wades her way through Tokyo’s ‘kawaii’ lingerie in the hope of finding something a little less, well, cute

F

rills, bows, ribbons, ruffles, volume, padding, pastel hues, oh my. For many nonJapanese women, shopping for underwear in Tokyo can be a bubblegum-overload adventure – that is, if you can manage to squeeze yourself into the small sizing. Everything is so… padded. So sweet. So cute. But cute isn’t usually what we look for in lingerie, especially if you’re buying it for date night. We want seductive, sheer, barely-there. We look for gauzy fabrics, smooth lines, pieces that just disappear under form-fitting clothing.

‘However, what is considered sexy overseas isn’t necessarily considered sexy in Japan, and perhaps our lacy, black and see-through underthings are just not the locals’ cup of tea,’ notes Nicola Thiele, a Tokyo-based fashion blogger at tiredoftokyo.com and master’s student at Bunka Fashion College. Indeed, what’s trending now in Japan is the kawaii (cute) movement, which actually goes beyond colour-coordinated outfits, cute bows and sparkly manicures. Kawaii encompasses all things adorable, delicate and beautiful, but it is also about uniqueness, confidence and wearing things for yourself, as opposed to just pleasing others – opposite sex included.

Naturally, the lingerie trends in Tokyo mirror the current kawaii wave, featuring pretty and saccharine details that exude innocence, playfulness and femininity. Most underwear stores present seas of pale pinks, baby blues and light greens, which all go hand-in-hand with the softness

of kawaii. Those girlish Japanese collections offer coverage and modesty, and are usually adorned with flowers, hearts or bows. Many lines also feature popular characters from Disney or Sanrio.

‘Most Japanese bras are heavy on the padding and ruffles. As pretty as they look on the hanger, they simply do not work under T-shirts and other tight-fitting clothes,’ says Nicola. ‘The only way to achieve a smooth look is to wear an undergarment on top, such as a camisole or tank top, and shorts over underpants, which is an extra step and layer,’ she adds.

And judging by the endless rows of basic undergarments on display at chain store Uniqlo, ranging from nude-toned tanks to slimming bodyshapers to camisoles with built-in bras, there is indeed a market for items to conceal frilly underwear, and to enhance curves.

turned-fashion designer is the latest It Girl, and her wildly popular daily Instagram feed is providing heaps of inspiration for local street style.

As a result, the lingerie trends are also transforming: Japanese brands such as Peach John are now offering naked-like collections and sheer creations that show a lot more skin and curves. Their underwear is meant to be seen, perhaps with just a pop of colour peeking from underneath a tank top. French lingerie brand Princesse Tam-Tam, recently acquired by the Fast Retailing group (alongside Uniqlo, Theory, J Brand and GU), made its big entry into Japan, bringing its naughty-yet-nice combos to this side of the world.

Japanese fashion and culture is experiencing a revival, and the body image, attitudes, sexuality and trends are evolving – with lingerie going in the same direction.

While there is still a definite frills overload in underwear shops everywhere, the international influence can increasingly be found in local brands, and shopping for underwear in Japan doesn’t have to be a cringe-inducing experience any more. In fact, when we asked one sales assistant at the Ginza branch of Princesse TamTam what their best-selling item upon opening was, they told us it was a simple see-through black bra – sans bows, padding or underwire.

Very Parisian, n’est-ce pas?

Everything is just so... padded

But change is on the lingerie horizon Fortunately – at least, for those of us who don’t look good when dressed up as dolls – the kawaii movement is evolving into something a bit more bold and fashion-forward thanks to social media and the exposure to international brands.

Tokyo fashion in general is changing, too: think bleached locks, pastel highlights, defined brows, high-waisted shorts, exposed stomachs, faux-fur vests and lots of bling – à la Alisa Ueno, founder of clothing brand Fig & Viper. The Japanese model-

42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

MAIN IMAGE: ISTOCK

Shopping & Style

Shopping & Style

Where to shop for lingerie Try the kawaii look or find something more sleek

SMOOTH AND SEXY: Peach John

Celeb favourite Peach John offers a playful sleepwear collection with sexy lines. While they offer their share of ribbon-adorned undergarments, they also tend to stay away from the extra padding and instead opt for smoother, barely-there designs.

One of our favourites is the ‘no-bra bra’, a light and form-fitting creation that’ll make you forget you’re even wearing a bra while offering a perfect silhouette. 3F Shibuya 109, 2-291 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). www.peachjohn.co.jp. Daily 10am-9pm.

CUTE AND DELICATE: Amo’s Style by Triumph

At first sight, Amo’s Style by Triumph is the embodiment of the word kawaii: overall a soft palette, delicate appliques and lots of ruching and trimmings. Yet in addition to all the pretty bras and frilly panties, they have black string bikini underwear, thongs and shapewear to smooth out those thighs. They also have a nice wedding section with alluring corsets, showing that the brand grows up with their clientele.

1B2F, 3-24-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3350 6220. Daily 11am-9pm. jp.amos-style.com

The boudoir-like Bradelis shops are not only found overlooking trendy Omotesando or in chic department stores: they now have storefronts in New York City, namely in Soho and on Madison Avenue – not too shabby. The Japanese brand has a unique three-step technique when it comes to creating a shapely décolleté, and it can apparently be done by redistributing tissue from the back, upper abdomen and underarms to sculpt and refine the breasts. Sounds a tad confusing? They do offer free consultations and expert fittings, so it’s worth dropping by to see what it’s all about.

6-1-4 Jingumae, Shibuya (MeijiJingumae Station). 03 6427 1431. www.bradelisny.com. Mon-Sun 11am-8pm, irregular hols. For the full list of stores, visit the website.

SHEER AND ELEGANT: Wacoal DIA

If you have a few yen to invest on quality undergarments, head out to Ginza for a purely luxurious experience at DIA, the upscale line from well-established Japanese brand Wacoal. The chic, sophisticated designs are a lot more La Perla and a lot less ‘cupcakey’ than the usual local offerings. Think plunging necklines, sheer fabrics, string thongs and lots of black, all hand-sewn by artisans. Their seasonal collections also feature items that can be worn out on the town, such as diaphanous cocktail dresses to complement your elegant lingerie. 6-7-9 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5537 0850. www. wacoaldia.com. Mon-Thu, Sun & hols 11am-8pm, Fri & Sat 11am-8.30pm.

FRILLS AND LACE: Tutuanna If you’re in the market for frills, lace, padding and pastel-toned underwear, Tutuanna is the place to go – that is, if you can squeeze into their limited range of sizes. In addition to their extensive collection of socks and textured and coloured tights (the best selection in the city, if we must say), they also carry a popular and affordable lingerie line. The extra-padded bras will definitely give your cleavage all the dimensionality you can dream of, along with a matching pair of panties, as they all come in sets.

Takeshita-dori, 1-6-13 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku or Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 5771 6045. www. tutuanna.jp. Daily 10am-9pm.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 43

Shopping & Style

CHIC AND SHAPELY: Bradelis

Shopping & Style

Looking for sports gear, musical instruments, Japanese textiles or something equally specific?

Kumi Nagano guides you through Tokyo’s specialised shopping districts

S

ince the Edo and Meiji eras, Tokyo has seen a boom in shopping districts. Some developed as wholesale markets, others a result of post-war black markets, while others grew to meet the demands of their student populations. Stocked to the brim, there’s nothing you can’t find in these specialised districts – and when we say specialised, we mean it.

Each area caters to a different kind of shopper, whether you’re looking for music instruments, ski equipment, books, kitchen utensils etc. Mostly, you’ll be buying from experts in the relevant field, which means you can also get the best advice.

Often you can find goods for bargain prices, too. While these shops were originally aimed at professionals, these days many open their doors to the general customer as well. Here are six of the best to get you started.

FOR MUSOS: OCHANOMIZU The Musical Instrument District extends south from Ochanomizu Station, with a number of instrument-packed stores lining Meiji University Street. It apparently got its start because of the university students who gather in the area.

Here you can find new, secondhand and vintage guitars, brass instruments, drums, keyboards, effectors, amplifiers, recording equipment, microphones and more. All the major manufacturers are represented, including Ishibashi, Kurosawa, Shimamura and ESP. If you’re a beginner player, shop for cheaper items near the entrances; if you’re a seasoned muso, you’ll find what you’re looking for towards the back of the stores.

Closest station: Ochanomizu Station

From top: Ochanomizu, Kanda Ogawa, Jinbocho, Kappabashi

FOR SPORTSMEN: KANDA OGAWA Going skiing, snowboarding or mountain climbing?

Head to Yasukuni-dori, between Jinbocho and Ogawa, for all the gear you need. This district got its start during the ice-skating boom in the late ’50s, when Hakusan-dori was lined with skating rinks. These days it’s more focused on ski and

44 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

snowboard goods, however, since the 1972 Winter Olympics in Sapporo inspired a string of related stores to open up.

The larger stores are found along Yasukuni-dori, but if you go one block back from the main street, there are many smaller shops worth exploring too. From September, you’ll start seeing new merchandise on the shelves, and if you’re around in early November, don’t miss the annual Kanda Sports Festival.

Closest stations: Ogawamachi and Jinbocho stations FOR BIBLIOPHILES: JINBOCHO One of the world’s largest secondhand book markets sits at the Jinbocho intersection between Yasukuni-dori and Hakusan-dori. Besides 150-plus small shops selling used books, you’ll also find major stores and publishers displaying brand-new publications. The shops cater to niche audiences, whether you’re into novels, movie-related books, comics or academics. If you’re interested in art and design, head to the following stores: Minamotokido Shoten, Nanyodo Shoten, Bohemian Guild, Sakanayama Shoten, Yamada Shoten Art Department and Keizo Books. If you’re after cooking-related books, you best bets are Yukudo Shoten, Takayama Honten, and Toriumi Shoten.

Having escaped damage from WWII, the neighbourhood boasts a 130-year history, and from the end of October to the beginning of November it buzzes with events like the Kanda Used Book Festival and the Jinbocho Book Festival. Buy a stash of new reading material and then stop off at one of the many curry restaurants or old-school cafés for lunch while browsing the pages of your purchases.

Closest stations: Ochanomizu and Jinbocho stations FOR CHEFS: KAPPABASHI Also known as ‘Kitchen Town’, this neighbourhood got its start in the early Taisho period and holds

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Shopping & Style

SHOP LIKE A PRO

a collection of 170 stores that stretch for about 800m north to south between Asakusa and Ueno.

These wholesale stores carry every kind of pot, dish and kitchen utensil imaginable, along with interior décor and food-related products. While many are geared towards professional chefs, all foodies are bound to enjoy this shopping experience.

As you walk down Asakusa-dori from Tawaramachi Station towards Kitchen Town, you will notice the giant chef’s head on the roof of the Niimi building. From here, turn right into Kappabashi-dori. Looking for one of those plastic food samples you see outside restaurants all around Tokyo? Find them at stores such as Ganso Shokuhin Sample Store, Tokyo Biken, and Iwasaki Kappabashi Showroom, where you can even watch them being made. Note that most stores are open on Saturdays but closed on Sundays.

Closest station: Tawaramachi Station

Catering to the constant flow of tourists, many of the stores are duty-free, and if you head over there on a Sunday afternoon, you’ll be able to traipse the main street without worrying about traffic since it gets closed off as a pedestrian zone (unless the weather is bad).

Closest station: Akihabara Station FOR FABRIC HUNTERS: NIPPORI You don’t have to buy an expensive kimono to get your hands on the very original, beautiful fabric designs of Japan. At Nippori Textile District (or Fabric Town), which runs for one kilometre along Nippori Chuo-dori, there are more than 60 textile stores carrying both Japanese and Western

fabrics at surprisingly low prices. You’ll also find buttons and other accessories, and at most stores you can request to have your purchases delivered to your home.

Instead of just wandering around aimlessly, pick up the ‘Nippori Textile Town Map’, available at most stores, to figure out which ones you want to target. We recommend Tomato Honkan, where you can get your hands on just about anything, and Yasuda Shoten 3-Chome, which is famed for its linen. Plenty of the stores here offer retail level service, even as wholesalers, but note that many are closed on Sundays and don’t accept credit cards.

Closest station: Nippori Station

Discover more of Japan with UnionPay

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 45

Shopping & Style

FOR TECHIES: AKIHABARA No doubt you’ve already heard about Electric Town in Akihabara. Around Chuo-dori, there are over 500 crowded shops, making this Japan’s largest appliance and electronics district. Its history dates back to the post-war black market and it’s known for its abundance of cheap parts as well as otaku-attracting stores selling plastic models and figurines. These days, you can also find arcades, maid cafés and plenty of manga.

Akihabara, Nippori (right)

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

Challenge

No.

1 WHO SINGS BETTER?

This one is a straight-up test of singing prowess. LIVE DAM STADIUM’s ‘SEIMITSUSAITEN DX - G’ function rates fundamental vocal expressions: not only pitch but also tempo, vibrato and ‘shakuri’ (a technique that sounds a bit like convulsive crying while you sing). Don’t be nervous, it’s nowhere near as harsh a judge as Simon Cowell.

R1

THE

And the battle begins! Saki chose ‘Perhaps Love’ by Korean outfit J & HowL (Request No. 7024-38), while Aisté went with the visual kei J-pop song ‘HELLO’ by HYDE (Request No. 6977-13).

VS

Saki

KARAOKE CHALLENGE Team

lo

artist?

MAROON 5 d pleaser? = Your top crow aki ‘Touch’ by Yoshimi Iwas = How often do ? oke kara you go to 1-2 times a year = Favourite

l ca

Mei

Saki

artist?

FTISLAND pleaser? wd cro top r = You J & HowL ‘Perhaps Love’ by do en oft = How e? you go to karaok nth mo a Once = Favourite

VS

Tea m

Karaoke isn’t just about the singing. It’s also about the competition! Here we introduce you to just some of the unique features found in Japanese karaoke boxes that make for a fun evening of trying to outshine your co-singers.

For our very own showdown, we asked two local kawaii models to challenge two Time Out Tokyo writers.

Read on to find out which group came out tops…

e Out m i T

Kirsty

= Favourite

artist?

Kyteman = Your top crowd pleaser?

‘Wonderwall’ by Oasis = How oft do you go to kaen raoke?

3-4 times a yea r

Aisté

= Favourite

artist?

Sigur Ros top crowd please r?

‘Hoppipolla’ by Sigur Ros = How oft do you go to kaen raoke?

Every 2nd month

= Your

46 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

= Without hesitation, Saki leaps into

Aisté

= Don’t let Aisté’s soft features fool

the Korean ballad, baby-voiced and pitch perfect.

you: her rich, powerful voice packs a punch.

= No-one in the room can understand

= But wait, did she just go off pitch?

the lyrics, but Saki knows all the words. 사랑인

This could affect her score…

가요

I was so nervous, I made a ton of mistakes!

Score

90.790

66.259

Saki scored top marks without breaking a sweat. For all the heart and feeling Aisté poured into her performance, the quaver in her voice let her down.

With the first challenge concluded, each group has one

Challenge

No.

2

WHO CAN BURN THE MOST CALORIES?

Ever wondered how many calories you burn when you sing? Well, now you can find out: Japan’s karaoke systems have a unique feature that tells you just how much energy you plough through with each song. Challenge No. 2 sees our singing teams battling it out to be the biggest loser.

Kirsty

9.5

kcal burnt

Kirsty’s been going to rock festivals since she was 16, so she picks a rock favourite, ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’ by Queen (Request No. 7051-19), assuring us ‘it’s a given for burning calories’. Even though it turns out the song seems to have more talking than singing, she gives it her all and the score shows it!

Saki

10.2

kcal burnt

Saki picks ‘Kokuhaku’ by FUNKY MONKEY BABYS (Request No. 7003-44) because it’s the kind of song you can really throw yourself into. She sails through this passionate love ballad with her adorable voice, even adding a few dance moves – does she realise these don’t count towards her calorie burn?

How to use SEIMITSUSAITEN DX-G

karaoke like a pro

Touch this icon at the top menu of your remote to activate the system, then punch in your song request.

Once the song finishes, your score and analysis will be displayed. Note that certain songs cannot be scored.

R2

This youthful duo competed with nostalgic tunes. Mei went for the up-tempo anime song ‘Touch’ by Yoshimi Iwasaki (Request No. 1748-01), while Kirsty picked rock ballad ‘Don’t Look Back In Anger’ by Oasis (Request No. 4816-41).

VS

Mei = Mei’s oh-so adorable singing voice

Time Out Tokyo recently sent two writers (and karaoke enthusiasts), Aisté and Kirsty, to try out LIVE DAM STADIUM’s newly released karaoke machine, which incorporates 3D live sound. Here are their tips for having the most live-tastic karaoke session ever…

Kirsty

FIRST THINGS FIRST Here’s a close-up shot of the LIVE DAM STADIUM machine. To activate the Live Sound function, press the red button (see left). Aisté and Kirsty say they were seriously impressed with the quality of the sound.

= Kirsty hesitates a little on the

is matched with an equally cute ‘Touch!’ gesture.

opening lyrics, but once she reaches the hook, her singing is spot on.

= She finishes off almost perfectly,

even on the tricky high notes.

= She belts out the melody with

dramatic flair.

Touch !!!

BUT THAT’S NOT ALL…

Score

82.308

83.453

Wow that was close! By just one point, Kirsty is the vocal victor, her volume and expressive power cinching the title.

win and one loss. Challenge No. 2 will decide their fate…

Aisté

6.6

kcal burnt

Having burned her way through 13kcal in the first challenge, Aisté seems the likely winner. She sings a perfect rendition of ‘I Bet You Look Good On The Dancefloor’ by Arctic Monkeys (Request No. 1070-04), her voice resonating through the room. Everyone is convinced she’s going to win. But wait, only 6.6kcal! Perhaps she should’ve picked a longer song?

Mei

To really feel the difference between your average karaoke experience and this enhanced sound option, choose the Live Karaoke function (circled right in red). This presents a selection of high-quality videos from live concerts, with the 3D sound carrying the cheers from the crowd right into the room with you. It’s way better than singing along to MTV on your high-def widescreen. If you want to hear the original voice of the artist throughout the song, choose the Mama-Oto (まま音) version.

DON’T WORRY IF YOUR JAPANESE IS NOT UP TO PAR…

AND THE WINNER IS… It was close, but Team Saki and Mei claimed the number-one spot.

It’s tough to beat the locals!

While taking their loss in good spirits, Team Time Out says, ‘We will be back!’

Aisté and Kirsty belt out a Backstreet Boys’ song using the Mama-Oto function. Backstreet’s back, alright?

The studio has this handy guide by Moshi Moshi Nippon in English, Korean and Chinese, so you’ll easily be able to get to grips with the basic functions of the machine.

If you’re not sure where to start, there is a helpful list of songs to choose from – simply punch in the request number and the song will come up.

9.2

kcal burnt Finally, Mei is up, singing ‘Biscuit’ by YUKI (Request No. 6694-63). Her voice is on par with YUKI’s and she uses all her energy to give an incredible performance.

Yet somehow, even with all that power, her score falls short.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 47

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

mtv81.com

A

nime has become one of Japan’s biggest cultural exports, rivalled only by softpower giants sushi and video games globally. Yet the cartoons themselves aren’t the only things that have proven extremely popular. Anime songs – shortened to ‘anisong’ in Japan – have proven to be just as iconic, with the themes to series such as ‘Sailor Moon’ and ‘Dragonball Z’ proving popular worldwide. And they are big money makers, too.

The first anime to feature a song was the 1929 short ‘Kuro Nyago’, a cut-paper animation about a black cat. Yet the foundation of the modern anisong industry came during WWII, when the main song from the propaganda cartoon ‘Fuku-chan’s Submarine’ was sold as a record. Subsequent programmes in the next half-century, such as ‘Astro Boy’ and ‘Speed Racer’, featured unique tunes that proved as popular as pop hit singles.

WHAT’S KAMI-KYOKU?

Quick Japanese lesson: kami-kyoku literally translates as ‘god song’, and refers to top-level tunes; the sort that everyone respects. The anisong realm has its own god-tier, and here are some of our choices for that divine category.

‘A CRUEL ANGEL’S THESIS’ (FROM ‘NEON GENESIS EVANGELION’):

WORDS: PATRICK ST. MICHEL

DIAL IN TO THE LATEST MUSIC AND CULTURE FROM JAPAN

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH ANISONG?

‘GET WILD’ (FROM ‘CITY HUNTER’):

The theme to the most popular and influential anime of the ’90s, this song should even be recognised by casual Japan fans.

‘City Hunter’ serves as a great encapsulation of the decadent Bubble Era in Japan, and the theme perfectly matches the ’80s Tokyo backdrop.

‘CHA-LA HEAD-CHA-LA’ (FROM ‘DRAGON BALL Z’):

‘GOD KNOWS…’ (FROM ‘THE MELANCHOLY OF HARUHI SUZUMIYA’):

Dramatic, overly masculine, catchy as heck – yep, the perfect song for ‘Dragon Ball Z’.

A catchy rock number representing one of the Oughts’ most well-known series.

number of fans that packed the Saitama Super Arena 80,000 The each day for three days at Animelo 2014, the world’s biggest

concert devoted to anisongs. That figure was only topped by the number of glowsticks in the building.

LATEST DEVELOPMENTS

Like the J-pop industry, the anisong world is constantly changing. Here are some of the newer developments.

‘LOVE LIVE!’:

ANIME HITS THE CLUBS:

One of the most popular anime right now is ‘Love Live!’, which tells the story of highschool girls starting a pop group. Spurred by massive music sales, the folks behind the series have started a real version of the show’s performance troupe, with the voice actors representing the cartoon characters in real life.

In recent years, anime dance nights have become popular across Japan. Some venues, such as Tokyo’s Mogra club in Akihabara, specialise in ani-centric nights, where DJs spin songs and transform familiar tunes into bass-heavy remixes.

Today, anisongs are some of the best-selling songs every year, and young bands whose tunes are used as an opening or ending theme can expect a big boost in popularity and sales.

There are also plenty of singers who exclusively perform anisong, to the point where it has become a genre all its own. What’s more, festivals devoted to cartoon music have sprung up, as have club nights. Suffice to say, anisongs are no longer just theme songs in Japan.

US VS JAPAN

The global popularity of anime has resulted in plenty of series being aired overseas. To match local cultures, however, certain things need to be adapted – and this includes the songs. You’ll probably recognise these notable Englishlanguage anisongs, but have you heard of their Japanese counterparts?

THE ANIME

JAPANESE ANISONG

ENGLISH ANISONG

POKÉMON

In Japan, the theme for the first run of this anime was the uptempo, practically rapped ‘Mezase Pokémon Master’.

The English version was the dramatic ‘Pokémon Theme’, starting with the fittingly ambitious line, ‘I want to be the very best.’

DRAGON BALL Z

The aforementioned ‘Cha-La Head-Cha-La’ fitted well with the fighting anime’s theme.

But in the US this needed to be more… with it. Enter ‘Rock the Dragon’, which is basically nu-metal.

ONE PIECE

This popular pirate anime features a pretty standard, upbeat number in Japan called ‘We Are!’

In the English-speaking world, it was cooled up as the ‘Pirate Rap’, and adds some ’tude to swashbuckling.

NARUTO

This ninja-centric series’ Japanese original theme was an attempt at an American-style power ballad.

In the US? The original opening tune in English is faster, though it also incorporates a person shouting ‘power!’ in Japanese.

WHO TO LISTEN TO

• MITSUKO HORIE : One of the most prolific anisong singers ever, Horie has sung the themes for ‘Candy Candy’, ‘Sinbad no Bouken’ and ‘Belle and Sebastian’. You can still hear her voice every Sunday at the start of the long-running series ‘Sazae-san’.

• MARY MACGREGOR: The American singer is best known for topping the Billboard charts with ‘Torn Between Two Lovers’ in 1976, and she was also one of the first non-Japanese crooners to provide a song for anime, for 1981’s ‘Adieu Galaxy Express 999’.

• LISA: Currently, singer-songwriter LiSA holds the anisong crown in Japan.

She’s contributed numbers for some of the bigger series in recent memory, and also released albums that have topped the Japanese charts.

What’s Moshi Moshi Nippon?

Simply put, it’s a project that seeks to spread Japanese pop culture overseas. It aims to hold events – both in and out of Japan – to showcase elements such as fashion, music, anime and cuisine with new perspectives so as to attract a global audience.

The

4 elements of Moshi Moshi Nippon by world-famous J-pop singer and 4. Hosted kawaii icon Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, the MOSHI

of the last tour, MOSHI MOSHI NIPPON FESTIVAL, they 1. Asheldparta number of Japanese pop culture festivals around the

MOSHI NIPPON TV show gives you fresh insights into both traditional and contemporary Japanese culture.

The show airs twice a month on NHK World and jibtv, reaching out to people in more than 150 countries.

More info at moshimoshi-nippon.jp/en/tv.

world. The events offered live music, Japanese food, exhibition booths and meeting/networking spaces for businesses. They also regularly hold events in Japan as a way to help boost regional economies.

MOSHI NIPPON delivers the latest news on tourism, 2. MOSHI lifestyle and Japanese pop culture for anyone who is thinking

about or already planning a trip to Japan. They also offer interactive features through which Japanese pop culture fans can communicate with each other.

3.

In 2014, they launched the first of these tourist information spaces in Tokyo under the name MOSHI MOSHI BOX, and they’ll be launching more of these in cities across the globe.

MOSHI MOSHI BOX serves as a place where people can learn about Japanese culture, buy souvenirs made in Japan, and even experience things like karaoke.

! d w o cr

Join the

TOTAL 3,329 ( FOREIGNERS 1,547 / JAPANESE 1,782 ) WHERE IN THE WORLD OUR VISITORS COME FROM

USA CHINA HONG KONG AUSTRALIA FRANCE

10% 9% 8% 6%

20%

*These numbers are approximate.

FIND THE FLAG

Look for this flag featuring the MOSHI MOSHI NIPPON logo and you’ll know you’ve found one of the MOSHI MOSHI Karaoke Boxes. Head inside to try your hand at singing or simply to take advantage of the English-friendly services.

Since launching in 2014, MOSHI MOSHI BOX in Harajuku has attracted on average 107 visitors per day.

Here’s who you’ll be mingling with when you visit*…

THOSE WHO TRIED KARAOKE:

Foreigners 73 Japanese 134 = Many came on Wednesdays or

Sundays when you can take part in the crepe challenge. = Most karaoke singers come from the US, with the UK, Australia and France next on the list respectively. = Want to know if you’ll be singing in your age group? Here’s the percentage of karaoke singers by age:

FAQ FROM TOURISTS: 1. How do I get to Meiji Shrine, Yoyogi Park, Kiddyland, Oriental Bazaar?

2. Can you recommend a good Japanese restaurant?

3. What’s the best cat café and rabbit café?

4. Where’s the toilet?

AND THE MORE UNIQUE QUESTIONS: 1. Where can I buy foreign idol goods?

2. Can you direct me to Sailormoon Café?

3. How do I watch sumo morning practice?

4. Which bars open from noon?

Total 207 30s

6% Teens

30%

Other

4%

20s

60%

*Statistics gathered from May 1-31, 2015

WORD ON THE STREET NIKKI, 25, USA = Why did you come to Japan?

Travel = Why are you here at the MOSHI MOSHI BOX? To ask the location of a cat café. = Which of the products on sale here do you like most?

The suiteki, shaped like a beer mug. = What do you find most interesting about Tokyo?

Everything!

KAÑA, 33, BRAZIL = Why did you come to Japan?

Modelling = Why are you here at the MOSHI MOSHI BOX? To exchange money. = Which of the products on sale here do you like most?

The onigiri cellphone strap – because I like eating tsunamayo (tuna mayo) = What do you find most interesting about Tokyo?

Everything!

‘PIPE’('KISERU'): SUZUKI HARUNOBU

Art & Culture

Art & Culture

Would you call these images obscene?

In Japan, shunga is considered so erotic it’s been dubbed ‘Edo porn’.

Matt Schley looks at the history of the art form and the new exhibition that’s set to challenge the controversy

O

n September 19, the Eisei Bunko Museum in Tokyo bravely unveiled an exhibition of traditional Japanese erotic art called shunga. Despite the historical nature of the pieces, the art show doesn’t come without a fair bit of controversy: shunga is still considered obscene in many circles, and despite a successful showing at the British Museum two years ago, the exhibition was

turned down by over ten Japanese museums before Eisei Bunko bit the bullet. So why is this art form from hundreds of years ago still causing so much hand-wringing in Japan? Here’s the big reveal…

What is shunga, actually?

Though the earliest shunga (literally ‘spring pictures’, with ‘spring’ being a Japanese euphemism for sex) can be traced back much earlier, the

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

art form is most closely associated with the Edo period and its ukiyo-e, woodblock prints that depicted Edo’s hedonistic ‘floating world’ of geisha, kabuki, sumo – and sex.

Shunga was painted by some of the best ukiyo-e artists of the day, including Kitagawa Utamaro and Katsushika Hokusai (Hokusai’s most famous shunga, which features some octopus-on-woman action, was the subject of a 1981 film titled

‘Edo Porn’). Shunga was in demand, and one commission from a wealthy buyer would reportedly keep an ukiyo-e artist eating for months.

One, ahem, standout element of shunga is the exaggerated genitalia. This flourish was not, in fact, ukiyo-e artists bragging about the size of their, uh, brushes, but rather an expression of the genitalia as a ‘second face’, one that, unlike the face presented to the public every day, represents one’s true primal desires – hence both the similarity in size and often unnatural physical proximity to the noggin’.

Another unique shunga element: both partners are usually fully (well, almost fully) clothed. Unlike in the West, where bare flesh was seen as simultaneously tantalising and taboo, men and women of Edo-era Japan saw each other in the nude regularly at mixed baths and the like. If anything, it was more appealing to see men and women in shunga clothed, as it helped to identify the characters’

UTA MAKURA ‘POEM OF THE PILLOW’: KITAGAWA UTAMARO

‘SODE NO MAKI’ (‘HANDSCROLL FOR THE SLEEVE’): TORII KIYONAGA (INTERNATIONAL RESEARCH CENTER FOR JAPANESE STUDIES) KATSUSHIKA HOKUSAI ‘ADONIS FLOWER’ (‘FUKUJUSO’): MICHAEL FORNITZ COLLECTION

One Hokusai shunga features some octopus-onwoman action

So why all the fuss?

Indeed, anything but taboo, shunga was widely accepted in the Edo

Shunga stay or shunga go?

Ironically, it’s again Western influence that’s changing Japanese attitudes towards shunga – this time toward a positive re-evaluation.

Many 20th century Western artists have cited the influence of shunga on their work (Picasso liked Hokusai’s aforementioned octopus-starrer so much he painted his own version), helping legitimise the form in the West while it was simultaneously being banned in Japan.

More recently, over the past decade there have been major exhibitions of shunga in Helsinki, Milan and Barcelona, culminating in the 2013 exhibition at the British Museum that serves as the basis for Tokyo’s, which ‘The Independent’ praised as being ‘the most explicit and brilliant pictures of pleasure ever produced’.

Today, it’s possible to buy books and even vintage prints of shunga.

Still, with over 10 other Tokyo museums passing on the current exhibition before Eisei Bunko picked it up, it’s clear the shunga taboo in Japan persists. Keep an open mind, leave any Puritan attitudes you may be carrying at the door, and make your way to the Eisei Bunko Museum before December 23. Provided you’re over 18, that is.

And remember: it’s okay to laugh.

EXHIBITION DETAILS ‘KINOE NO KOMATSU’: KATSUSHIKA HOKUSAI

Pour some shunga on me Why was shunga in such hot demand, anyway? One reason was the Edoera system in which the wives of Japanese lords were required by the shogun to live in the capital, making for some lonely evenings for lords in the countryside. Despite their questionable anatomical accuracy, there is also evidence shunga was used as a sex guide for unpractised young men and women.

Finally, though undoubtedly erotic, there was also an element of humour to shunga, which was sometimes referred to as warai-e, or ‘laughing pictures’.

Shunga works are artefacts of an era in Japan where attitudes about sex were freer, to the point where it could be laughed about.

period, owned and displayed by both men and women. Reports from early foreign visitors to Japan describe visits to Japanese homes in which the man and wife of the house proudly show off their shunga collections to their horrified Western guests.

The de-shunganisation of Japan came in the Meiji period. Opening itself up to the Western world after centuries of isolation, the Japanese government sought to bring the country in line culturally and morally with the ‘civilised’ West, banning shunga (not to mention fun practices like public nudity and mixedgender bathing).

Police raids in the early 1900s led to the confiscation and destruction of thousands of pieces, and shunga, though no longer banned outright, has remained taboo since.

The Shunga exhibition is showing at Eisei Bunko Museum until December 23, 2015.

Address: 1-1-1 Mejirodai, Bunkyo (Edogawabashi, Zoshigaya stations).

Open: 9.30am-8pm (Sun until 6pm), Sep 19-Nov 1, Nov 3-Dec 23, closed Mon (except on hols).

Admission: ¥1,500 (no admission for children under 18).

More info: www.eiseibunko. com/shuna/

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 51

Art & Culture

walk of life and to emphasise the parts that were exposed (as if they needed any more emphasising).

Art and fashion that pushes boundaries, the restless passion of one photographer, and the challenge faced

by Japan’s architects

extensive retrospective highlights her journey through more than 100 pieces, providing a comprehensive look at this tireless rebel’s artistic struggle. 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato.

03 5777 8600. www.nact.jp/english.

10am-6pm (Fri until 8pm), closed Tue (except for Nov 3) and Nov 4.

‘Niki de Saint Phalle Exhibition’ The National Art Center, Tokyo (NACT), Sept 18-Dec 14 Revolver in one hand, paintbrush in the other, Niki de Saint Phalle was a woman who believed that art is a means to an end. She tried it all, from huge Gaudi-style papier-mâché sculptures to shooting at paint-filled bags against a canvas.

Working from the ’50s through to the ’90s, her unique artistic vision touched on outsider art, new realism and feminism, always advancing socio-political causes while forging a colourful, almost pop art-like style that eventually came to appeal to a wide audience. This

‘Kimono Modernism’ Sen-oku Hakuko Kan (Tokyo), Sep 26-Dec 6 During the Taisho and Showa periods, new fabrics emerged with

52 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

designs that came to form richly patterned kimonos. As aesthetic sensibilities changed through the cycles of art nouveau and art deco, women in particular began to wear more colourful and modern kimonos.

To mark the 20th anniversary of Nagano’s Suzuka Classic Museum, a selection of 100 kimonos are unveiled here at Sen-oku Hakuko Kan (Tokyo). 1-5-1 Roppongi, Minato.

03 5777 8600. www.sen-oku.or.jp/ english/. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), closed Mon (except for Oct 12 & Nov 23), Oct 13 & Nov 24.

‘Marking the 400th Year since the Passing of Furuta Oribe – Momoyama Period Ceramic Tea Utensils and Oribe’s Taste’ Hatakeyama Memorial Museum of Fine Art, Oct 3-Dec 13 Furuta Oribe (1544-1615), a military commander and master of the tea ceremony, served under the three lords who endeavoured to unite Japan in the 16th and 17th centuries. Although he continued the tradition of the tea ceremony created by Rikyu, he is known for being fond of bringing a bold and free spirit to the ceremony. Oribe’s creativity tended towards the novel and unconventional, and it came into full bloom in tune with the mood of the Momoyama period. Designs that were said to reflect ‘Oribe’s taste’ were favoured and supported by the

‘MARKING THE 400TH YEAR SINCE THE PASSING OF FURUTA ORIBE – MOMOYAMA PERIOD CERAMIC TEA UTENSILS AND ORIBE’S TASTE’: IMPORTANT CULTURAL PROPERTY WATER CONTAINER, HIDASUKI (FIRE MARK) TYPE, BIZEN WARE. ON DISPLAY NOV 7-DEC 13

Essential exhibitions

‘KIMONO MODERNISM’: KIMONO WITH DESIGN OF INTERLOCKING HEMP LEAVES (1920s-1930s), SUZAKA CLASSIC MUSEUM

‘NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE EXHIBITION’: NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE (NANA FONTAINE TYPE), 1971/1992, PHOTO: MASAYUKI HAYASHI, YOKO SHIZUE MASUDA COLLECTION © 2015 NCAF, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Art & Culture

‘TOKYO ART MEETING (VI) “TOKYO”: SENSING THE CULTURAL MAGMA OF THE METROPOLIS’: TABOR ROBAK, STILL FROM ‘20XX’, 2013, COURTESY: THE ARTISTS AND TEAM GALLERY INC., NEW YORK

Art & Culture

people of the times. This exhibit, which will mark the 400th year since Oribe’s passing, focuses on the ceramic tea utensils of the time when he was active and pursues the kind of beauty he sought after.

2-20-12 Shirokanedai, Minato. 03 3444 5787. tinyurl.com/TOToribe.

Tue-Sun 10am-4.30pm (last entry 4pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a pub hol), Nov 6.

‘Labyrinth of Undercover “25-year retrospective’’’ Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Oct 10-Dec 23 This is a retrospective exhibition

by Japanese fashion brand Undercover, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year.

The brand attracted enthusiastic

‘FESTIVAL/TOKYO 2015: BORDER FUSION’: SHIZUOKA PERFORMING ARTS CENTER (SPAC) ‘A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM’, PHOTO: K. MIURA

‘Festival/Tokyo 2015: Border Fusion’ Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre and others, Oct 31-Dec 6 This international performing

arts festival brings together artists representing different genres, nations and generations.

The lineup includes Otomo Yoshihide’s PROJECT FUKUSHIMA!, contributions by Toshiki Okada and Norimizu Ameya, and overseas artists including Spanish director Angélica Liddell. Three artists from Myanmar feature in this year’s ‘Asia Series’ programme, while the opening show will be ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ directed by Satoshi Miyagi and staged by the Shizuoka Performing Arts Center. 1-8-1 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima. 03 5391 2111. www.geigeki.jp. Showing times and venues vary according to programme.

‘Tokyo Art Meeting (VI) “Tokyo”: Sensing the Cultural Magma of the Metropolis’ Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, Nov 7-Feb 14 Focusing on the theme ‘Tokyo’, this event features different forms of expression and new possibilities in art, explored and rearranged through multimedia and from different angles. Works are by Japanese artists as well as overseas visitors, including an eagerly anticipated contribution from ambitious Danish group Superflex. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto.

03 5245 4111. www.mot-artmuseum.jp/eng. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (except for Nov 23 & Jan 11), Nov 24, Dec 28-Jan 1, Jan 12.

‘Architecture since 3.11’ Contemporary Art Gallery, Art Tower Mito, Nov 7-Jan 31 A special exhibition exploring new architectural trends in Japan since the 3.11 disaster after which the industry was heavily impacted.

The 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami forced architects to fundamentally rethink their understanding of architecture and society’s systems. What role will be demanded of architects hereafter, and what kind of future should they envision? Including sections covering energy and environment, the exhibition will review the endeavours of 21 architectural offices, and ponder the architect’s role.

1-6-8 Gokencho, Mito-shi, Ibaraki.

029 227 8111. arttowermito.or.jp/ index_en.html. 9.30am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), closed Mon & hols.

For more exhibitions, culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 53

‘ARCHITECTURE SINCE 3.11’: ITO TOYO + INUI KUMIKO + FUJIMOTO SOU + HIRATA AKIHISA + HATAKEYAMA NAOYA, ‘HOME-FOR-ALL’ IN RIKUZENTAKATA, PHOTO: HATAKEYAMA NAOYA

‘LABYRINTH OF UNDERCOVER “25-YEAR RETROSPECTIVE”’: 2006-2007 A/W ‘GURUGURU’ PHOTO BY MAMORU MIYAZAWA ‘SHOJI UEDA EXHIBITION ILLUSION/THE RETURN’: © SHOJI UEDA OFFICE

‘Shoji Ueda Exhibition Illusion/ The Return’ Books and Modern, Oct 16-Nov 6 Shoji Ueda was known globally for his striking black-and-white photos taken on the sand dunes of his native Tottori as well as his portraits of family members and friends.

Later in life, he started capturing

images of imaginary landscapes by creating miniature sand dunes and microcosms with objects placed on his kitchen table. The series titled ‘Illusion’ (1987-1992) is his last collection and differs considerably from his signature style. While also functioning as a diary of his inner dialogue, it shows a lesser-known side of the photographer and reveals his restless passion and experimentation in the photographic medium. 201 Palais Nogizaka, 9-5-26 Akasaka, Minato. 03 6804 1046. booksandmodern.com/en.

12pm-7pm, closed Mon, Tue.

Art & Culture

support from youngsters when it launched in 1990, and founder Jun Takahashi has continued to attract global attention since. He has twice won First Prize in the Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix. Focusing not just on fashion, but also photography and video, the brand is revered for presenting its own unique world.

3-20-2 NIshi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku.

03 5353 0756. www.operacity.jp/ en/ag. Tue-Sun 11am-7pm (until 8pm on Fri & Sat, last entry 30 min before closing), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is pub hol).

Art & Culture

The power of art

The TURN Festival kicks off in March 2016 and will be held every year in the run-up to 2020.

As Tokyo gears up for the 2020 Olympics and Paralympics, cultural projects are popping up everywhere. We chat to artist Katsuhiko Hibino who’s leading the TURN project, focusing on the creative potential of people who come from different backgrounds. Words Kosuke Shimizu Hibino put pen to paper while visiting these facilities: ‘When I visited Mizunoki in Kyoto, I started drawing on the second morning. My body felt completely different. I’ll never be able to replicate what I drew that day. Even if asked to, I could never reproduce it.’

‘The role of art is not just the creation of objects. It is about expression and the experience of the viewer being moved. An apple looks different when painted by an elderly person or a child. Art allows us to see the differences from person to person. That is the basis of art.

I want to share that experience. I want this fundamental power of art to be witnessed again by society and to revive this function.’

It’s not necessarily art as we know it

54 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

PORTRAIT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Art & Culture

K

atsuhiko Hibino appeared on the Tokyo art scene in the ’80s with his works made from cardboard, immediately attracting a following from the enthusiastic younger generation.

His works have since been widely exhibited and used for TV costumes and sets as well as shop and restaurant decor. In recent years, he has released several projectbased works that involve building the pieces together with participants at art festivals.

Under the name TURN, Hibino has now turned his sights to art created by persons with disabilities. It’s not necessarily art as we know it, in the form of painting or sculpture, for example. To use Hibino’s own words, this is art expressed as ‘the common values that not just the disabled, but all humans share’, a kind of ‘expressive power’ and ‘appreciation of art’.

The core of the project will be played out at the TURN Festival, where several artists will take up short residencies at facilities for those with disabilities, presenting their works while there. These exhibits will go beyond the work made by the artists to encompass works made by others at the facility.

The goal is not to create an array of works on display, but to ‘recreate the environment of three days shared by artists, users of the facilities, and those interested in art – all coming together with different viewpoints’.

Hibino himself has completed short residencies at facilities for persons with disabilities. He felt them to be ‘even more remote than another country’. Hibino says that when visiting different regions, the more remote the place, the more he feels the need to capture the experience in a drawing. ‘Why draw?

I want to see, through drawing, how I react to being in a new environment.

Since I will never have that experience again, I want to make it concrete. The drawing is not the goal – rather, it is a tool for bringing the experience into being.’ So naturally,

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

DISCOVER THE ESSENCE OF JAPAN Visit Presenting Japan, an event that heads to London this October in the runup to the 2019 Rugby World Cup

The time has come for the Ceylon-loving Londoner to switch to Japanese green tea. At least, for those who’ll be following the Rugby World Cup to Japan, where it’s set to be held in 2019. This October, while the current tournament takes place in the UK, Japanese creatives and entrepreneurs will descend upon London to showcase their country’s allure to a worldwide audience. In addition to all the wonderful, unusual presentations and live art on display, traditional Japanese cuisine and sake will be served. Fancy immersing yourself in the very best of Japan this autumn? Here’s your guide to what’s in store.

Cultural food Japanese cuisine, which is now part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, is far more than just food – it encompasses Japanese philosophy. At this event, both Japanese and Western chefs will share their perspectives on the charms of Japanese cuisine.

‘Japanese cuisine has a special charm to it’ Yoshinori Ishii, presenter at this event and executive chef at Umu London, shares his thoughts on washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine)…

Describe the difference between Japanese and Western cuisine.

It’s generally thought to come down to ‘umami’ and holding local and seasonal ingredients in high regard, but I disagree. There are other kinds of cuisine that feature the same elements. However, Japanese cuisine has a special charm to it. That is, it intertwines culture and food, including the flower arrangements and the interior decor. I make my own bowls and arrange all of the flowers in my restaurant myself.

How does Umu stay true to Japanese cuisine?

Most overseas chefs have a predetermined menu, but at Umu, I decide on the menu each day, depending on the fish that was caught the day before. This is quite a common thing in Japan, but since there is no system abroad where Fukuoka Oita Kumamoto

you can buy freshly caught fish or just-harvested vegetables, it took me five years to build a network of local fishermen and producers from whom I can obtain fresh ingredients.

Are the tastes of Londoners and Japanese different?

They are the same. When I arrived here five years ago, I was aware that British people like condiments such as ketchup and mayonnaise, but the reason they use them so much is that there is no distribution system in place for procuring fresh ingredients, like in Japan.

The truth is, they think the flavours of Japanese cuisine are also delicious if made with fresh ingredients. It is not that the Japanese palate is superior, but rather that the Japanese distribution system is amazing.

Toyota,

Kam

What is Umu’s most popular Aichi Kum dish?

Kobe Hyogo Toky The Chef’s Selection: Assorted SashimiHigashiosaka, Selection.

Shizuoka Yokohama, Osaka It’s popular because it features quality and Kanagawa variety that only comes from Umu. Sometimes people ask if we serve spicy tuna rolls. I tell them that we don’t, but give them something else to try instead, and they are always satisfied.

Traditional and pop culture have both come to symbolise Japan.

Although at first glance these two elements might seem like complete opposites, is it possible that they actually influence one another and thereby evolve in new directions? This event will include time- and space-defying presentations.

Experience Tokyo

If you’ve ever been to Tokyo, you will have been struck by the city’s energy, which mingles chaos and calm. Let us peer into the future of Tokyo, a city that is about to transform in preparation for the 2020 Olympics, and consider it as both a tourist destination and a business hub.

Sport for Tomorrow

Why do judo wrestlers bow to their opponents? Is the Japanese spirit of fair play, ingrained in even the youngest children, actually rooted in the way of the samurai?

In preparation for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, Sport for Tomorrow will discuss Japanese sportsmanship and how they wish to pass it on to the rest of the world.

Explore Japan Sapporo, Hokkaido

magai, Saitama

,

As an earthquake-prone country that’s facing environmental challenges, Japan continues to develop ideas to support change and improvements for the future of the country. We look for clues about how to solve the world’s problems by studying social innovations that began in Japan.

Technology with heart Did you know that one of Japan’s most adored pop idols is actually a virtual reality star created by a singing voice synthesizer called Vocaloid?

Top Japanese creatives will reveal the inventive technology they use to give robots like this a range of ‘emotions’.

‘We are interested in the relationship humans have with technologyand media’ Daito Manabe, director of Rhizomatiks and presenter at this event, discusses the interaction between art, people and technology…

maishi, Iwate

yo

Social innovation

Japan’s true appeal lies not only in major cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, but also in the smaller towns. This event presents the highlights of the 12 Japanese cities that will be hosting games during the 2019 Rugby World Cup. This is your chance to plan ahead and pick out destinations for your trip to Japan.

Presenting Japan YouTube Challenge Love Japan? Got a video clip you want to share with the world? Upload your ‘True Japan’ video to YouTube with the hashtag #presentingjapan and it might be selected to air at the Presenting Japan event in London.

For further information on the date and venue, visit www.presenting-japan.jp

The artistic projects of Rhizomatiks come across as media art that treats humans as devices, such as the live footage used for pop band Perfume. Is this intentional?

We are interested in the relationship humans have with technology and media. Sometimes we utilise biological aspects like the breath and movements of the muscles, while in other cases we pursue the human context vis-à-vis video media. We also take an interest in human thought processes, computer algorithms, and artificial intelligence. While stage performances that make use of robots and drones would stand on their own without the presence of people, the real point we’re mining is how technology expands and augments human expression.

We will be giving a performance in December at Spiral in Aoyama featuring humans and machines.

Are you inspired by Japanese culture?

It’s possible that certain things unconsciously inspire me.

In elementary school, I liked Nintendo, Namco and Taito games, and the works of artist

PHOTO BY SHIZUO TAKAHASHI

Timeless creations

collective Dumb Type were also a major discovery for me. I don’t particularly have Japan in mind when working. However, I produced a piece with dance company Elevenplay that integrated the dancers, robot arms, drones, and projection footage etc. The artists and curators who saw it said that the detailed design of the system and choreography were something only Japanese people could achieve. I guess that software engineering and manipulation are a kind of ‘artisan craft’ that resembles other Japanese crafts.

Rhizomatiks considers experimentation to be important. What technology and experiments are you interested in right now?

These days, there is a lot of research being done into machine learning and training computers to understand images and music, then using that for new expression.

These projects usually make use of neural networks. I’m interested in this field and collecting a range of data right now.

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

VISIT JAPAN IN 2019!

Combine the Rugby World Cup with the trip of a lifetime If you’ve always dreamed of visiting Japan, then there’s no better time to make the trip a reality than in 2019. As host country for the next Rugby World Cup, Japan is gearing up for the event in a big way, promising not only a festive tournament atmosphere but also plenty of activities to keep visitors inspired.

Here, we look at the 12 cities that have been chosen as venues for the games. It’s never too early to make travel plans!

Fukuoka, Fukuoka Prefecture A gastronome’s paradise, Fukuoka is best enjoyed at night when you can hop between the curtained stalls in the areas of Tenjin and Nakasu. Lift your glass and toast the beautiful local ladies in these cosy quarters, and don’t forget to end the night’s escapades with a hearty bowl of ramen.

Prefecture famous for: Curtained food stalls, cod roe, motsu-nabe (offal hotpot), ramen Best local spirits to cheers with: Morinokura sake, Shigemasu sake Time from Tokyo: 1.5-hour flight

Kumamoto, Kumamoto Prefecture The city’s centrepiece is Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s three most famous castles. As you leave the city, Kumamoto Prefecture’s nature spreads out before you and you’ll catch sight of Mt Aso, whose giant caldera is one of the world’s largest. Take the opportunity to go for an absorbing drive through the magnificent scenery.

Prefecture famous for: Kumamoto Castle, Mt Aso, hot springs, horse meat, noodles, Kumamon mascot Best local spirits to cheers with: Kuro-Kirishima shochu, Bishonen sake Time from Tokyo: 1 hour and 40 minute flight

Oita, Oita Prefecture Oita has long been loved as Japan’s top-rated hot springs resort. After the rugby game, step into the exquisite healing hot waters and enjoy the elegant hospitality at one of the Yufuin or Beppu inns. After your bath, wrap yourself in a comfortable cotton yukata and enjoy superb cuisine made with local ingredients. Sure to be a highlight of your trip.

Prefecture famous for: Hot springs, chicken, dumpling soup Best local spirits to cheers with: Shinrabansho sake, Nikaido sake Time from Tokyo: 1.5-hour flight

Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture Along with Yokohama, Kobe is famed as a modern port city and here you can enjoy a luxury stay while surrounded by many exclusive boutiques and restaurants. Be sure to order the highest grade of Kobe beef, an exquisite treat that is loved by the world’s gourmands.

Prefecture famous for: Kobe beef, night views, Arima Onsen, Mt Rokko, Ijinkan Best local spirits to cheers with: Fukuju sake, Rokko beer Time from Tokyo: Around 3 hours by bullet train

Fukuoka

Hyogo Oita Osaka

Kumamoto

Higashi-Osaka, Osaka Prefecture Although Osaka’s size can be compared to Tokyo’s, its people are known for being a far more lighthearted bunch. Mingle with friendly locals at the Rugby World Cup venue, which happens to be one of the most renowned rugby stadiums in Japan.

Prefecture famous for: Kintetsu Hanazono Rugby Stadium, Shinsaibashi, takoyaki grilled octopus balls, okonomiyaki Best local spirits to cheers with: Akishika sake, Goshun sake Time from Tokyo: Around 3 hours and 20 minutes by bullet train and private railway lines

Sapporo, Hokkaido Prefecture Serving as Hokkaido’s political and economic centre, Sapporo is most famed for its annual snow festival, exhibiting artistic snow sculptures and attracting over two million people from all over the country. It’s a must-see event. From leisure activities to gourmet cuisine, you can enjoy a deeply satisfying trip to Sapporo.

Prefecture famous for: Sushi, ramen, Genghis Khan (lamb dish), soup curry, the Clock Tower.

Best local spirits to cheers with: Chitosetsuru sake, Sapporo beer Time from Tokyo: 1.5-hour flight

Kumagaya, Saitama Prefecture Although close to Tokyo, Saitama Prefecture is full of natural riches. Throughout the year, Kumagaya consistently records top temperatures, but it has profited from the heat waves by developing merchandise that plays on the city’s scorching climate. Kumagaya is also home to Sakuratzuzumi, where some 500 cherry trees bloom in gorgeous profusion, and Ryusenji temple, which is surrounded by beautifully coloured foliage in autumn.

Prefecture famous for: Heat waves, Inari zushi, Kawagoe, Chichibu Best local spirits to cheers with: Naozane sake, Kagamiyama sake Time from Tokyo: Around 40 minutes by bullet train

Kamaishi, Iwate Prefecture

Hokkaido

The poet Kenji Miyazawa once called Iwate Prefecture ‘ihatov’ (‘utopia’). Within Iwate, Kamaishi is nestled on the coast and is blessed with the glorious Sanriku Sea. A superb view of the deeply indented coastline is its ultimate attraction. Known as the birthplace of modern steelmaking, the city’s ruins of old blast furnaces are of keen interest.

Prefecture famous for: The rias coastline, abalone, southern ironware, Morioka cold noodles, iron mine Best local spirits to cheers with: Hamachidori sake, Nanbu Bijin sake Time from Tokyo: Around 3 hours by bullet train to Shin-Hanamaki

Tokyo Iwate

Aichi

Saitama Tokyo

As the capital of Japan and one of the world’s top cities, Tokyo is a concentrated centre for everything from culture to politics to economics. Its myriad tourist attractions include areas such as Shibuya, Akihabara, Shinjuku and Asakusa, while Tokyo’s east side has gained attention in recent years as an epicentre of the newest fashions.

Prefecture famous for: Tokyo Skytree, Imperial Palace, cosplay, crowded trains, being a matrix Best local spirits to cheers with: Highball, Yebisu beer

Shizuoka Kanagawa

Toyota, Aichi Prefecture Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture developed as the town near the country castle of the Tokugawa shogunate and the city is now Japan’s third largest, after Tokyo and Osaka. Nearby town Toyota is home to Toyota Motor Corporation, Japan’s flagship industrial enterprise. Join a factory tour and discover the secrets of Toyota’s constant innovation.

Prefecture famous for: Hitsumabushi, miso pork cutlets, Nagoya Castle,Toyota Motor Corporation, Nagoya Cochin Best local spirits to cheers with: Kikuishi sake, Edel-Pils beer Time from Tokyo: Around 3 hours by bullet train, JR and private railway lines

Kakegawa, Shizuoka Prefecture Renowned as the region where Japan’s tea is grown.

Shizuoka’s Kakegawa boasts a large volume of tea production and is conveniently near the Rugby World Cup venue. Savour the taste of authentic green tea in the tearoom at 400-year-old Kakegawa Castle and you’ll be transported back to the age of the samurai.

Prefecture famous for: Green tea, eel, Kakegawa Castle, nature, hot springs Best local spirits to cheers with: Kaiun sake, Kiwi wine Time from Tokyo: Around 1 hour and 50 minutes by bullet train

Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture This prefecture boasts a unique culture that is completely different from other regions, with historic Kamakura offering a beach scene that’s almost like a mini California. Among Kanagawa’s delights is the port town of Yokohama, where the gourmet food of Chinatown and the romantic night views have turned it into a popular date spot.

Prefecture famous for: Kamakura, the beach, Enoshima, Yokohama, Chinatown, night views Best local spirits to cheers with: Yokohama beer Time from Tokyo: Around 30 minutes by train

Music London samurai Iconic Japanese guitarist Tomoyasu Hotei tells Kunihiro Miki about taking on the UK

Music

A

Japanese person who ventures overseas under their own steam to try their luck in the global market is known as a ‘samurai’.

Three years ago, locally renowned guitarist Tomoyasu Hotei took up the challenge, leaving his rock-solid reputation in Japan behind and relocating with his family to London.

While there are many ‘samurai musicians’ who find success overseas, taking the risk at the age of 50 is something else.

Having just celebrated his 53rd birthday this year, it seems Hotei has taken a philosophical approach to the move, saying, ‘I’ve reset everything here. Now, I actually feel close to how I did back when my band first debuted.’

Hotei had dreamed of living in London since his teens, and his musical roots can clearly be traced to the style of British bands from the ’80s. ‘I became addicted to glam rock at the age of 14; I have always loved the unique, artistic, and fashionable rock ’n’ roll in the UK… David Bowie, Jesus Jones, Sigue Sigue Sputnik...’

These days, Hotei gets to share a stage with the very musicians who influenced him. In 2015,

he played alongside post-punk group Gang of Four, who formed in 1977. ‘At the Gang of Four concert, in which I played as a guest artist, the opening act was Lonelady. You could tell that the female vocal lead had also inherited her style from the postpunk era… The British approach to instruments is very raw; they don’t try to manipulate the sound too much. Instead, they create rhythm at the moment the guitar is heard. I get the feeling they really dislike processed music.’

This spring, Hotei signed with record label Spinefarm Records/ Universal Music, and he’s just put the finishing touches on his debut international album, ‘Strangers’.

The album features guest artists such as Iggy Pop, Matt Tuck from Bullet for My Valentine, Richard Z. Kruspe from Emigrate/ Rammstein, Shea Seger, and Noko from Apollo 440, who also supports Hotei at live concerts.

‘Noko, the guitarist for Apollo 440, has the same birthday as me. Our backgrounds are also really similar. I feel like he is my UK alter ego; like he instinctively senses what I want to do.

It’s a big deal for me that he’s at my side.’

When it comes to music production, rather

They are very cut and dried about eliminating material. It would be hard for anyone in Japan to say that kind of thing

than push his Japanese sensibilities, Hotei has focused on immersing himself in the London way. ‘I asked a few London producers for help, and I became, as we say in Japan, a carp on the cutting board, letting them prepare what I provided however they saw fit. For example, they might tell me during recording that this or that guitar solo is too long [laughs]. They are very cut and dried about eliminating material. It would be hard for anyone in Japan to say that kind of thing.’

So what prompted Hotei to finally make the break? As times change, so does the significance of Japanese artists moving overseas – we are beginning to seek out new inspirations. ‘Japan has a lot of interesting and beautiful things, including entertainment. You don’t have to bother going abroad to find enough enjoyment; the Japanese are content with what they have,’ says Hotei. Yet it’s exactly this that led him to leave his home, to regain some of the edge that he’d lost in the belly of his comfort zone. And London, the city of his dreams, was the ideal place to kickstart his creativity.

‘Strangers’ is out on October 16. www.hotei.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 61

Music

Music

THE GREAT EDM DEB W

hen mega EDM festival Ultra made its debut in Japan last year, it was official: electronic dance music had finally been embraced on our shores.

There’s more to come, too – the US’s Electric Daisy Carnival is set to hold its first Japan edition in Tokyo in July 2016. But how is the genre – which has long battled against naysayers and controversies – truly fitting into the music scene here? Especially in light of the peculiarly Japanese tradition of importing culture from abroad but then moulding it to suit the local context… Will the genre end up transforming into something entirely different?

Will EDM make it in Japan, or will it end up as just another temporary trend?

– Atsushi Shikano

To compete with European artists, the genre needs to be developed further here in Japan – Tomo Hirata

62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

LOCAL VS GLOBAL According to DJ Tomo Hirata, EDM in Japan is only vaguely connected to global trends, with the exception of big-time events like Ultra Japan. ‘In Japan, the genre really just entails club DJs stringing together hit tunes in an all-mix style,’ he explains. This contrasts quite heavily with EDM’s producer culture overseas where ‘DJs play mainly their own tracks, instead of just acting as selectors’.

This is true for many of the genre’s current superstars, most of whom

hail from Europe, the birthplace of EDM: David Guetta is French, Avicii is Swedish, Zedd is German, and Hardwell is Dutch. Notably, it was 2009’s ‘I Gotta Feeling’ by Guetta and the Black Eyed Peas that marked the start of the European EDM ‘invasion’.

Meanwhile, journo Atsushi Shikano points out that EDM’s global popularity may be due to its lack of distinct categories or styles, much like mainstream pop. Still, agreeing with Hirata, he says ‘there is a certain “EDM style” shared by everyone from international superstars like Zedd to small-time players appearing in front of only a few hundred partiers’.

Japan, it seems, still has some catching up to do.

WHY IS EDM STILL ATTRACTING CRITICISM? Shikano believes the genre’s tendency to veer towards the mainstream and the generic is to blame: ‘Just like [Japanese producer] Tetsuya Komuro’s ’90s dance hits, EDM is easy to get into.

But if everyone just listens to the same stuff, the music scene will end up being like a city where everyone’s wearing the same clothes.’

MAIN IMAGE: SUZANNE TUCKER/SHUTTERSTOCK, PORTRAITS: MANABU MOROOKA, EDC: © GMO CULTURE INCUBATION, INC

Hirata, however, says the critics who call it mainstream are not justified: ‘Trends in the EDM sound change every year – we just had stuff like hard kicks and bounce, while future house and progressive house are coming into vogue now. People are trying new things all the time, so EDM is no more one-dimensional than, say, rock.’

While Shikano does admit that EDM’s commercial success is impressive in an age of declining music sales, he still believes the DJs need to come up with their own ‘thing’. ‘For example, a genre like hiphop has had a huge influence both on the history of music and popular culture as a whole. Unless EDM can cement its own place, it might just end up as a passing fad, as so many pop styles have in the past.’

HOW CAN IT STAY RELEVANT IN JAPAN? While Shikano points out that EDM influences are already being used for added flavour in J-pop, Hirata draws attention to the genre’s credo, ie. PLUR, which stands for Peace, Love, Unity and Respect. ‘This spirit originated in the early ’90s UK rave scene and

continues to underlie electronic is where EDM’s true strengths lie. dance music events like Belgium’s ‘If people lose focus of that, the Tomorrowland, which draws genre will remain shallow. The partiers from over 140 countries.

Japanese scene is full of people Without this ethos, EDM wouldn’t who used to play chart hits and hipbe much more than a musical fad, hop, so there’s a tendency to just go poised to fizzle out sooner rather with a quick and easy mix. There’s than later.’ no future for DJ culture if everyone’s Ultra Japan however, has turned just appealing to the lowest common into something of a playground for denominator.’ local celebs and general hedonists.

Shikano wonders whether this situation properly represents the genre’s ideals: ‘Perhaps the idea of a musical ethos needs to be emphasised more actively in Japan, and maybe EDM DJs should strive to be better recognised as serious artists and performers.’

Hirata agrees, EDC (Electric Daisy Carnival), the world’s largest EDM festival, arguing that the is headed to Japan in July 2016. This will be the event’s first quality of the edition in Asia, and will include theme park rides, fireworks and music and the costumed performers. www.electricdaisycarnival.com producer culture

WHERE TO GET YOUR EDM FIX

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Music

BATE

Electronic dance music has finally arrived in Japan, but is it just a passing fad? We ask music journalist Atsushi Shikano and genre pioneer Tomo Hirata to weigh in.

Words Kunihiro Miki

Music

And we’re live!

LIVING ROOM CAFE BY EPLUS

Shibuya has its fair share of live music clubs, but the latest addition to the lineup claims to be Japan’s biggest live music café yet. Combining music, food and art, Living Room Cafe by eplus (one of Japan’s most well-known ticket sellers) opened in July and features 1,200m² of floor space and 300 seats. It’s divided into five main areas including living, dining, patio, main bar and terrace room, which hints at the concept behind the name: you should feel as though you’ve been invited to an artist friend’s home to chill out and listen to music. The idea is to encourage people to stop by for nightly live music concerts.

Music

Bands are returning to bars and cafés to reach new audiences, and it’s putting a serious spring in our step.

William Bradbury checks out the latest live music scene

A

s CD sales continue to decline and music downloads increase, musicians in Tokyo have begun to reignite the live music scene. This way, new artists get the chance to promote themselves and established musos can appeal to new audiences, while you get to enjoy music the way it should be enjoyed – everyone wins, if you ask us. As an introduction to the casual live music scene in Tokyo, we’ve rounded up five of our favourite café-style venues, all offering something a little unique in terms of music and setting.

64 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

On weekdays, the entrance fee is ¥300 for the live performance area (when musicians are playing).

On weekends, ticket prices vary according to performances and bear in mind that you might need to buy tickets in advance. 5F Shibuya Prime Bldg, 2-29-5 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station).

03 6452 5424. tinyurl.com/TOTlivingroom. Daily 11am-midnight.

THE GUINGUETTE BY MOJA

A five-minute walk from Shibuya Station, this restaurant featuring live shows is on the basement level of a three-storey café and shop called Moja.

Oshare (stylish) is probably the best word to describe the interior. Colourful lanterns hang from the ceiling and the vibe is classy – in keeping with the ambience, the jazz musicians we watched performed in suits and top hats. The bands that play here are focused more on traditional genres like jazz and pop oldies rather than breaking new ground, but there’s an enthusiasm and upbeat atmosphere that makes it a fun night out even if the music isn’t something you’d usually listen to.

Shows are scheduled about three times a week, starting at 7pm and finishing at midnight, and featuring a range of bands, DJs and other performers. We were even treated to a burlesque

show as a warm-up to the main gig. It’s still family friendly, though: one customer had her young son with her and the burlesque dancer playfully placed a top hat on his head – definitely more sweet than sexy. The elegantly dressed audience is a mix of photographers, businessmen and groups of friends. B1F COI Nishi-Aoyama Bldg, 1-11-1 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station).

03 6418 8984. tinyurl.com/TOTmoja (Japanese only). Mon-Thu 5pm-2am (Fri & Sat until 3am), closed Sun. Entrance ¥1,000-¥3,500.

and this is also a good time to order food as it’s hard to find space to eat while the performance is going on. The menu includes reasonably priced snacks such as chilli beans mixed with chickpeas and sausages for ¥500, and French fries with sweet chilli sauce and sour cream for ¥700.

1-24-8 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku (Okubu, SeibuShinjuku stations). 03 6279 2022. buena.tokyo (Japanese only). Tue-Sun 7pm-1am, closed Mon. Entrance ¥1,000 when events are held (fee varies with events), otherwise free for normal bar nights.

ART SPACE BAR BUENA

440

Found in the ultra-hip neighbourhood of Shimokitazawa, this bar takes a softer approach to live music with mostly folk and acoustic sets.

When we visited, the main act was a semi-famous Japanese comedy duo performing pop songs on guitar and piano, interjected with comedy skits.

The indie Japanese musicians who play here are likely to be unknown to you. But the positive spin on this is that it gives you real insight into local culture. You could end up discovering some native talent that might otherwise never have crossed your path. Most of the venue is seated and drinks cost ¥600 each. Food options include fish and chips for ¥850, chilli con carne for ¥600,

ROOSTER

With live events almost every day and a bartender who occasionally performs magic tricks in between live performances, this intimate bar is one of our favourites. The music is mostly jazz and blues – the band we watched focused on interpretations of works by artists such as John Coltrane. The vibe is laidback and relaxed, and the interior is adorned with pictures of jazz greats such as Billie Holiday and Louis Armstrong. Almost all the acts are Japanese and, although they’re not famous, the musicians are top level and clearly highly skilled.

Rooster offers a snack menu with options such as pizza, salad, sausages and cheese for ¥500 per dish. Perhaps due to the traditional nature of the music, the bar seems to attract an older crowd, and it’s a place where you’ll feel just as home enjoying beers with friends as you will nursing a whisky on your own. B1 Inoue Bldg, 5-16-15 Ogikubo, Suginami (Ogikubo Station).

03 5347 7369. tinyurl.com/TOTrooster. Shows daily from 7pm. Entrance ¥2,500-¥3,000.

Music

Clockwise from main image: Living Room Cafe by eplus, The Guinguette by Moja, Art Space Bar Buena, Rooster, 440

LIVING ROOM CAFE BY EPLUS, ART SPACE BAR BUENA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, 440: KISA TOYOSHIMA

This art gallery come bar is one for the noise and electro fans. Their regular events, mostly on weekends, are not your average kind of gig. When we visited, audience members were encouraged to wear blindfolds, and in true punk-rock fashion one of the noise artists pushed his table of gear over as he ended his set (we’re not actually sure it was intentional, but hey, it made an impact).

They also host rakugo (traditional Japanese comic storytelling) events in case you’re interested in experiencing another side of Japanese culture.

Although the noise bands attract a more otaku crowd, Buena draws a mix of curious customers.

There’s plenty of time to mingle after the show,

and chorizo for ¥700. SY Bldg, 5-29-15 Daizawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 3422 9440. tinyurl.com/TOT440. Entrance ¥2,500 to ¥4,000.

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HOW TO GET A DATE IN TOKYO

Without resorting to Tinder, we mean. Kirsty Bouwers heads to six bars to try and meet people (and perhaps find a little romance) the old-fashioned way

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T

okyo – 13 million people yet loneliness still strikes. Plain human contact can be a challenge, with everyone racing from A to B, constantly on their phones or in their own little groups. I’ve been living here for a year, and although I must admit I’m a smartphone convert as well, I still prefer meeting (new) people in the flesh.

So what’s a single girl to do to find a bit of entertainment, or possibly true love? Head to a bar, in the hope that some Dutch courage and music will fracture the tight-knit groups and loosen up the tongues a bit. And my oh my, the results were as varied as the bars...

Night 1: A971

Time till first flirt: 50 minutes Crowd watch: Expats, lost tourists and the occasional foreigner-hunting Japanese guy One Japanese blog billed A971 as the place to meet high-ranking expats. Perfect. Somewhat upscale pick-ups in Tokyo’s international central. As it’s the first venue on my list, I decide to call in a wingwoman.

In hindsight, perhaps not a great idea. We now have a group, and are automatically redirected to a table: first in the quiet dining area and then outside on the terrace, far away from everyone else. A full 50 minutes pass before we get a wave and a smile-wink – from a guy walking past.

Does that count? Considering the circumstances, yes.

It’s about time I take some action, so I head inside. Bingo.

While ordering, a tipsy Japanese guy starts chatting me up, but soon decides to become an impromptu wingman for the solo Korean-American standing behind us. After introductions, I find myself in the age-old conversation of whether I would ‘date an Asian’, whether I can tell the difference between Koreans and Japanese – and which I prefer. Across the bar, another guy has started literally picking up women and swinging them around. Just your average Thursday night.

9-7-2 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 5413 3210. tinyurl. com/TOTA971

IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA AND MANABU MOROOKA

Nightlife

Nightlife

Night 2: Club Atom

Time till first flirt: A few seconds Crowd watch: Japanese students and young office workers looking for a dance and a mate. Eighty percent male

Night 3: R2 Supperclub

Time till first flirt: Erm, that’s a fail Crowd watch: Well-dressed expats and groups of thirtysomething salarymen A place that has a dress code can either be very right or very wrong for meeting people. At first it looks like there’s potential: small groups of men and a few solo ones, all perched at the bar casually glancing around as soon as we walk in, with looks back and forth once we sit down. Unfortunately, that’s where the action ends, as everyone firmly stays in their seats. My friend leaves after one drink – I stay for another to see what happens if I’m alone. The verdict? Zilch. Not even one chatup line from the guy across the bar, who has been eyeing me up from

Night 4: Jumanji 55

Time till first flirt: 2 minutes (after 11pm) Crowd watch: Anyone who wants to drink on the cheap in Roppongi The first words that come to mind are ‘English student bar’. Then you spot the mannequins dressed in underwear and pink feather boas perched above the stairs (sadly, the dinosaur that used to be at the entrance has retired), and you realise things might get interesting.

Not at 9pm, however, which is when we walk in. Besides two girls and a few small groups of guys, it’s very quiet, and no-one seems to be interested in a friend for the night.

I come back a few hours later for round two, armed with another wingwoman, and this time it’s packed with barely lucid partygoers screening the crowd, holding their drinks and bobbing to pop music.

One of them, half my size, sluggishly states his wish to dance with me after I order a drink. I admire his liquid courage but decline, down my drink and leave for greener pastures.

At least something happened.

1F-2F Marina Bldg, 3-10-5 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 5410 5455. jumanji55.com

Night 5: Dining & Bar Kitsune

Time till first flirt: Oh dear, another fail Crowd watch: Well-to-do locals and

office workers looking for a cool place to dine and drink As soon as we walk in, we conclude that tonight may not be the best night. It’s Obon, and although the low tables are full with groups, there’s no-one sitting at the round bar besides one guy – who admittedly does look good and glances over often. He also apparently knows the staff. My wingman and I end up having too much fun chatting together, and the only vague attempt at meeting people is when the waiter asks if we’re together. We reply we’re co-workers – loud enough for the solo guy to hear, just to dispel any doubts. Still no action. As we get up to leave, I give it one last shot and start talking to the guy, but he seems happy alone. Conclusion: bring a fun friend for entertainment. B1F Chatelet Shibuya, 2-20-13 Higashi, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5766 5911. tinyurl.com/TOTkitsune

exchanged (tourists). My wingman starts selecting men he thinks are suitable, and beckons me over. The last specimen is a Japanese guy who studied abroad and has lots of interesting stories. I’m exhausted though, so decide to just Facebook friend him and then head off to catch the last train. One hundred percent meet and stories guaranteed at this spot – if you don’t have any luck (as a woman), I’ll eat my hat. 1F Kubo Bldg, 33-14 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3463 0077. www.tasuichi.co.jp

Night 6: Tasu Ichi

Time till first flirt: Under 10 seconds Crowd watch: Japanese looking for foreigners and foreigners (tourists and locals) looking for anything.

The ¥300 beer helps. Eighty to 90 percent male on weekends Hot damn. It’s 11pm on a Friday night. My wingman makes me walk in alone, and in the 10 seconds it takes me to put down my bag and order a drink I’ve been eyed up by more men than in any of the other bars we’ve been to. Two alcohol-red guys start talking while I order; a guy across the bar gives me the thumbs up for my time record. Tomato Red 1 eventually starts putting his arm around me; I politely decline and turn towards the three guys next to me who are intently observing the situation. We talk amicably, but they leave after a while and sadly no numbers are

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Nightlife

Walking into Atom on a Saturday night as one of the few blonde girls in the club can either be described as a very flattering or utterly terrifying experience. Within a second, at least five guys are eyeing me up, and while I try to push my way through the crowd with my friends, many a blurry face tries to strike up a conversation over the deafening music. One charmer decides that the best way to declare his interest is to swing out his arm and slap my arse. Others try to hump me, badly. (No, I didn’t know that was possible either). I head for my saving grace – the ‘ladies only’ dancefloor. On the plus side, at least meeting people here is easy.

2-4 Maruyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3464 0703. tinyurl.com/ TOTAtom

the start. The bar is now full, filled with groups of expats who all seem to know each other, and I’m left as the only solo drinker in between groups. I feel a bit desperate. To be fair, I’m also likely the youngest and most unconnected person in the bar. This mission has failed.

7-14-23 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6447 0002. tinyurl.com/ TOTr2

Promotional feature

‘MY FIRST TIME AT ROBOT RESTAURANT’ By now, you’ve all seen the photos and read the reviews.

But does Robot Restaurant live up to the hype?

Kirsty Bouwers goes along to find out

A

s a Robot Restaurant virgin, I was given the task of watching the show and reporting back on the experience. While most people will by now have seen tons of images online or at least have an idea of what it entails, I went in virtually blind. My only frame of reference was the hard-to-miss exterior of the Kabukicho venue, and perhaps an old ‘Transformers’ movie as an idea of what the robots might be like. And boy, was I in for a surprise.

The show is a pure bombardment of the senses, and the first few minutes may give you more of a ‘Lost in Translation’ feeling than anything else. But the spectacle thunders on, and ropes you in with its pure adrenaline.

Here’s my rundown of the best bits of the show, and what to look out for at this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

ROBOTS WITH PERSONALITY If you thought robots were just static pieces of metal with no soul, think again. Robot Restaurant makes a point of imbibing each robot with a personality, from the evil robot on its way to kill the poor forest people to the raving one rocking out with technicoloured LED lights blinking across its body.

The latter was paired with a group of breakdancers, dressed in suits with similar LEDs, creating a spectacle of man-meets-robot. The end scene was equally impressive, with huge Transformer-esque robots (they did make an appearance after all) lined up and having a wiggle before taking a bow.

COOL CHICKS They may be wearing little more than a bikini-like costume, but don’t write them off as merely hypersexualised girls – the women of the show are in control. The entire first act is a full-blown taiko drumming war, with the girls beating their hearts out to the drums. By the looks of it, that takes some serious energy. These ‘josen’ continue on into the second act, which sees forest and water characters battling an evil army, led by yet another fierce woman. (We won’t say what happens to her, but it involves an angry dinosaur-snake, reared by the opposing female forces.)

A DRUMMING BUNNY Because Tokyo wouldn’t be Tokyo if there wasn’t at least some injection of kawaii-ness. This routine, which I’m told is new to the show, features a fluffy pink bunny headbanging while playing the drums.

The contrast between the bunny wagging its tail and the divas in glitter-minidresses and knee-high boots singing Supremes-inspired songs was stark, but lightened up the act. It also meant that the all-important kawaii factor was brought by something other than the ladies – for a change.

ANIMAL ROBOTS I was expecting something more mechanical as opposed to massive animals recreated as robots. All of them are herded by women, and are the main foot soldiers to the josen. The fire-breathing dinosaur and the snake were especially impressive: the detail in construction was amazing, with perfectly formed teeth and smooth transitions. They moved with surprising ease and grace for their size. Those in the front row, be warned: when they say lean back, they really do mean it – or risk a bloody nose.

Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily, starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm on weekends and holidays), and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥7,000, excluding food and drinks.

Note that the schedule might change due to maintenance. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station).

03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

Bring the discount coupon on page 67 with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off your bill.

IMAGES: MANABU MOROOKA

HOW TO BOOK

Film Cinemas with a difference Tired of crowds and big complexes?

Check out these quirky mini-theatres around Tokyo. Words Kunihiro Miki

Cinema Amigo

Cinema Amigo has a wonderful seaside feeling

CINEMA AMIGO: MANABU MOROOKA, CINEMA NOVECENTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

FUKAYA CINEMA Found inside a renovated sake brewery along the old Nakasendo Road in Fukaya, Saitama, this theatre got its start when a group of residents began collecting signatures in 1999 to motivate the establishment of a cinema. It may have taken a decade for their wish to materialise, but it finally opened in 2010. Tickets are ¥1,100 and the theatre mainly shows popular art house and classic films. They also often hold stage introductions and talk events by directors and actors, making this already unique movie theatre an appealing option even for those who are just visiting the area. 9-12 Fukayacho, Fukaya-shi, Saitama, former Nanatsuume distillery (Fukaya Station). 048 551 4592. fukayacinema.jp. 10am-10pm, closed Tue. BRILLIA SHORTSHORTS THEATRE Opened in Minato Mirai in Yokohama in 2008, this is the first cinema in Japan to specialise in short films. Seeking to stimulate the shortfilm scene and uncover talent among young artists who will inevitably lead the movie industry in the future, the theatre presents the cream of the crop gathered from across the world. The interior takes its inspiration from the red carpet, and the theatre is equipped with specially designed Quinette Gallay chairs, making for a luxurious viewing experience.

The lobby café serves up light snacks such as pizza sticks and quiche, along with a selection of local and international beers.

2F Filmee, 5-3-1 Minatomirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohamashi, Kanagawa (Shin-Takashima Station). 045 633 2151. www.brillia-sst.jp. 10am-10pm, closed Tue.

Cinema Novecento

CINEMA NOVECENTO It’s a rare occasion when a new small-scale movie theatre opens in the Tokyo area, but Novecento surprised us all by opening in February 2015 in Yokohama. It has a mere 28 seats and it only screens 35mm and 16mm films. Old-school cinema fanatics will love the down-to-earth vibe, which makes it easy to strike up conversation with the staff and fellow movie fans, while the associated restaurant (‘trattoria’) is good for getting snacks and drinks before or after the movie. The programme ranges from time-honoured classics to short, privately distributed features, while the

space also hosts talks and events like rakugo (traditional comic storytelling) performances.

To top it off, loyal film enthusiasts can try their hand at the projectionist’s job during the regular workshops. 2F Iwazaki Bldg, 2-1-8 Chuo, Nishi-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa (Tobe Station). 045 548 8712. cinema1900.wix.com/ home. Cinema opening times vary according to schedule, restaurant open from 5pm-12am.

For upcoming events and movie reviews see timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 69

Film

CINEMA AMIGO Just a minute’s walk from the Zushi coastline, this café and cinema has a wonderful seaside feeling, with the smell of the ocean wafting through its windows. Opened in 2009 in a renovated house, Cinema Amigo shows films four times per day (10am, 3pm, 5.30pm, 8pm).

The lineup changes on a weekly basis and focuses on new releases in all genres from documentaries to popular art house films that showcase the owner’s quirky taste. Many people stop by for lunch at the attached Amigo Kitchen café and bar, where the lunchtime chef prepares cuisine using local vegetables and seafood. 1-5-14 Shinjuku, Zushi-shi, Kanagawa (Zushi Station). 046 873 5643. cinema-amigo.com. Daily 9.45am-12am.

LGBT Mothers and child Yuki Keiser chats to two female couples to find out what it’s like to raise children in an LGBT family in Japan

LGBT

‘F

rom our point of view, we are just an ordinary, run-ofthe-mill family,’ says Haru Ono. The head of LGBT family support group Rainbow Family, Ono lives with her same-sex partner and their three children (whom they gave birth to during their previous heterosexual marriages). ‘We’ve explained our circumstances to close friends and family, and they understand,’ she says. While the couple, who married symbolically five years ago, have not come out at the boys’ school, they are both treated as the children’s guardians. They admit they have some concerns, but mostly feel that they are treated like an ordinary family in their everyday life.

Through her work at Rainbow Family, Ono has realised just how many different forms of LGBT families there are in Japan. One increasing new trend, she says, is the number of lesbians in their twenties and thirties who are pursuing pregnancy. While many families are raising children they had during heterosexual marriages, Ono says that the number of female couples using artificial insemination has been on the rise for several

The number of female couples using artificial insemination is rising Rainbow family Kumi and partner, with their two boys

years now, especially since 2014.

I spoke with one female couple who live in the countryside of Japan and who gave birth to two children through artificial insemination. Kumi, who is in her thirties, sought out an anonymous sperm donor through a Californian facility four years ago and underwent artificial insemination here in Japan. Her partner of 10 years is Canadian. After meeting in Japan, they lived in Canada for three

70 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

years and then returned to Japan six years ago. Like Ono, they have come out to close friends and family. ‘We haven’t told the neighbours or the daycare, but everyone in our town knows that we live together and are raising children. In terms of everyday life, it feels as if people regard us as an ordinary family.’

However, Kumi’s partner notes that, while they get along well with their neighbours, there are times when she feels uneasy. ‘The boys treat me as their mother, and I’ve loved them as a mother since they were born, but since I didn’t give birth to them, society does not consider me as such. When I go back to Canada, there is no trouble telling anyone that I’m their mother, and everyone understands. It’s easier to fit in. But in Japan, people don’t see my children as being my children, so I’m scared that they may one day hear me saying I’m not their mother.

In the end, the ones that will be most hurt by this are them.’

Aside from this very real concern,

there is also the worry that if the birth mother dies and the children are still under age, the second parent will be treated as a third party by society and the children will be taken away from her. The notion of ‘two fathers’ or ‘two mothers’ is still unfamiliar in Japan, so there are those who are uncomfortable with the concept.

That is, until they actually meet an LGBT family.

‘As someone who has experienced having both an “ordinary” family and an LGBT family, I can testify that the fundamentals are very much alike,’ says Ono. ‘However, in the LGBT case, the social dimension is sort of tucked away.’ Nevertheless, there is no doubt that LGBT families will continue to increase in Japan.

I’ll sure be keeping an eye on how Japanese society and public opinion change and adapt going forward.

For more LGBT features and listings, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Sport

W

hile the sports world is buzzing in the lead-up to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics and Paralympics, the topic of sports in the context of disabilities is gaining traction too.

One organisation in particular, the People Design Institute NPO, is working to encourage what they call ‘barrier-free minds’. By cooperating with local and foreign universities as well as with local governments in Shibuya and Kawasaki, their People Design project seeks out creative ways to make cities more diverse and accommodating towards sportspeople with disabilities.

Last year, they organised the technology and design-focused exhibition called ‘Super Welfare Expo’. This November, the show returns to Shibuya’s Hikarie department store and also teams up with the futuristic-sounding Superhuman Sports Society at Miyashita Park.

The hope is that it will encourage people to think about how technology can open up new possibilities and help to make participation in sports more equal. In contrast to the exhibitionand symposium-heavy programme at Hikarie, the new event at Miyashita Park invites visitors to participate – prepare to get physical…

Sport

NO LIMITS

Blind bowling, silent rugby and wheelchair DJing – things you can do at the Super Welfare Expo in November. Words Yukako Izumi

of Image Arts and Sciences at Ritsumeikan University along with KMD: Graduate School of Media Design at Keio University. It has wheels that act as turntables, spouting out tunes when prompted by the accelerometers that record the rotation of the wheels. Visitors can try it out for themselves to feel what it’s like to ‘dance’ and create music at the same time, while onlookers can synchronise their smartphones with the beat by shaking them in the air.

PLAY SILENT RUGBY Forget the charging, tackling and kicking of a usual rugby game. This silent version is the polar opposite: the slower you walk, the greater your chances of winning. A blind sport, silent rugby is played with a special ball that makes a noise whenever the ball carrier stops or runs. This means that slow, careful walking is a smart strategy as it allows players to carry the ball into the opponent’s area and score points without being noticed. Of course, it also helps minimise the chance of you crashing into fellow players since you’ll be blindfolded while playing.

experienced players can try aiming at a soundemitting goal.

DRIVE SUZUKI’S PERSONAL MOBILITY UNIT Take a test drive in a zippy personal mobility vehicle designed by Suzuki. The futuristic little unit may not go that fast, but it’s still super fun.

It has wheels that act as turntables

BE A WHEELCHAIR DJ Head for the skatepark, where you’ll hear music being played by a wheelchair DJ. This specialised chair was developed by the College

TRY BLIND BOWLING A sport you can play all on your own, blind bowling entails moving a remote-controlled ball with your iPhone. Beginners can compete to see who can get a ball to move five metres and touch their feet in the quickest time. More

EVENT DETAILS: ‘Super Welfare Expo’ Nov 10-16 at Hikarie, Nov 14 at Miyashita Park.

Free entry. peopledesign.or.jp This event is open to everyone, with or without disabilities, as the public’s understanding and welfare support go a long way in helping those with disabilities enjoy more freedom.

Additional activities planned in the surrounding area include ‘fashion town tours’ around Ships, Beams and Mont-bell using electric wheelchairs.

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Travel & Hotels

Travel & Hotels

CITY-CENTRE RETREAT

COMFY INNOVATION

GRAND HYATT TOKYO

A symbol of the neighbourhood’s cosmopolitan beat, this hotel is a favourite for both international and domestic travellers looking to experience Tokyo in style. Found in the Roppongi Hills shopping and entertainment complex, Grand Hyatt Tokyo provides a restful retreat for anyone looking to kick back in the heart of the city. Wondering what to do while you’re in Tokyo? The good news is all 387 of the hotel’s comfy rooms, including the exclusive suites, feature a copy of our mag – so you’ll have plenty of entertainment options to choose from. 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station).

03 4333 1234. tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/en

TOKYO’S BEST HOTELS

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TOKYO

HOMELY LIFESTYLE ANDAZ TOKYO

The Hyatt group’s lifestyle brand Andaz opened its first Tokyo hotel on the top of the 52-storey Toranomon Hills complex in June 2014. The hotel houses 164 guestrooms, a partially open-air rooftop bar, and a whopping 50m² guestroom, the largest of its kind in Tokyo. To allow guests to enjoy their own style of stay, the Andaz Hosts, who take on the traditional roles of doormen, receptionists and concierges, are there to assist in any way.

To make you feel more at home, they don’t wear black uniforms or name tags and will engage with guests to provide the best recommendations and suggestions for exploring Tokyo like a local. 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato (Toranomon, Shinbashi stations). 03 6830 1234. tokyo.andaz. hyatt.com/en

72 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Situated in old-town Nihonbashi, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo is the antidote to that feeling that luxury hotels are the same the world over. Many of the materials are sourced from local artisans, and the lobby and rooms all hint at traditional Japanese motifs, such as the antique woven obi and kimono fabrics that hang in place of paintings. The bird’s-eye view from the rooms trumps most of its top-end rivals, with a mosaic of lights from the business district in the foreground, and Tokyo Skytree and Mt Fuji beyond. 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 3270 8800.

HISTORICAL www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

ELEGANCE

AMAN TOKYO

Uber-private luxury resort brand Aman is known for attracting celebrities, business high-rollers and others who prefer to keep their whereabouts a secret. In a surprise 2014 move, Tokyo’s Otemachi business district saw the opening of Aman’s newest branch, an exclusive hotel located on the upper floors of the Otemachi Tower building that marks a new high in urban opulence. Otemachi Tower, 1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). 03 5224 3333. amantokyo.com

DAZZLING GREENERY

THE PENINSULA TOKYO

Facing Kokyo Gaien National Garden, this hotel is surrounded by greenery. It’s one of the largest hotels in the city, with 47 suites and 314 guest rooms decorated with a traditional Japanese touch. The suites boast views of the Imperial Palace, Hibiya Park and the city’s busy streets. The Lobby restaurant is open for all-day dining and offers a popular afternoon tea. Hei Fung Terrace on the second floor serves up a pagoda kakuni (braised pork) worth trying. Also, thanks to its convenient location, you can access all major areas such as the shopping capital of Ginza and the business hub of Marunouchi. And the hotel’s first and second basement floors directly connect to Hibiya Station, offering access to four major train lines. 1-8-1, Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Hibiya Station). 03 6270 2888. www.peninsula.com/tokyo

For those who like to rest in the lap of luxury

From the outside, the hotel building bears the less-than-attractive hallmarks of its 1964 construction, but inside, the dim lighting and spacious foyers recreate the feeling of a luxury cruise ship. To the rear of the hotel is a beautifully laid-out and tended Japanese garden. Several of the hotel’s restaurants, including Japan’s only branch of the legendary Parisian La Tour d’Argent, look out onto the pretty greenery. 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda (Akasaka-Mitsuke, Nagatacho stations). 03 3265 1111. www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo

SPRAWLING HIDEAWAY

STATION SPLENDOUR

THE TOKYO STATION HOTEL

The only hotel in Japan that’s built within a National Important Cultural Property, the Tokyo Station Hotel remains in vogue while continuing to develop its history and exclusive hospitality. The redbrick facade of Tokyo Station is one of the few prominent survivors of Japan’s rush to modernisation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries – and it’s looking even better after a six-year renovation that restored it to its former splendour. The in-house hotel had to close its doors for the duration of the restoration, but has been open again for business since 2012 and is steadily reasserting itself in an increasingly crowded luxury accommodation market. 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 5220 1111. www. thetokyostationhotel.jp

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 73

Travel & Hotels

HOTEL NEW OTANI

Getting Around ¥400, elementary and junior high school students ¥200.

ROAM THE CITY Niko and… is a fashion and lifestyle store along Meiji-dori and is the first of its kind to provide a ‘share cycle service’ in the heart of the city. Rent one of their sleek black electric bicycles by Daikanyama’s bike expert Motovelo; you’ll see them neatly lined up outside the shop’s entrance.

6-12-20, Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 11am-10pm. ¥1,000/three hours (before tax).

Getting Around

Where to rent and what to see

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espite confusing cycling rules, narrow streets and virtually no bicycle lanes, Tokyoites love to get around by bike.

If you’re here on holiday or just want to experience seeing a different side of the city, these are some of the best spots to rent your own ride – just remember to take some form of photo identification along with you.

PICK UP AND GO With Community Cycle you can rent and return your bike at different docking ports around Chiyoda, Minato and Koto wards, as well as Yokohama. To get your ‘unlocking passcode’, you simply register online: follow the instructions on their English website. Choose from 30 minutes, one-day pass or monthly memberships (different rates for each ward). docomo-cycle.jp/ chiyoda/en

CIRCLE THE PALACE The Palace Cycling Course offers free bicycle rental on Sundays, but the downside is that these bikes can only be used on the designated route. To explore the Marunouchi district or otaku mecca Akihabara – both a short ride away from the palace – rent a bicycle from Muji Yurakucho Store.

Palace Cycling Course: Look for the reception just outside Nijubashimae Station exit 2, next to the Imperial Palace police box. Sun 10am-3pm. tinyurl.com/ TOTpalace-cycling Muji Yurakucho Store: 3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). 10am-8pm (bike pickup until 6pm). Mon-Fri ¥500/day, Sat, Sun & hols ¥1,000/day (a deposit of ¥3,000 is required so bring enough cash). Reservations on 03 5208 8241 or in person.

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EXPLORE OLD TOKYO Tokyobike Gallery is based right in the middle of retro neighbourhood Yanaka, perfect for exploring on wheels. Note that the rental service is not available overnight and you must return the bike before the store closes on the day of rental.

4-2-39 Yanaka, Taito (Sendagi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTtokyo-bike.

Bicycle rental available Mon, Tue & Fri 10.30am-6.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-5.30pm for a set price of ¥1,000/day. Closed Wed & Thu. RIDE ALONG THE EDO RIVER Head to Yamada Yoji Museum, built as a tribute to the director of famed Japanese movie series ‘Otoko wa Tsurai yo’. The museum offers a bicycle rental service on its rooftop.

From here, you can cycle along the riverbank to Mizumoto Park in approximately 30 minutes. 6-22-19 Shibamata, Katsushika (Shibamata Station). Bicycle rental available on Sat, Sun & pub hols, from Mar-Oct 9am-5pm, Nov-Feb 9am-4pm. Adults

TRY A TANDEM Yoyogi Park Cycling Center, on the north side of Yoyogi Park, lets you rent a tandem bicycle but you have to stay within the park on their designated cycling tracks. Still, could be a fun first date. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. 03 3465 6855. Tue-Sun 9am-4.30pm (bike pickup until 4pm). ¥210 for the first hour, plus ¥100 every extra 30 minutes.

For more essential travel info go to timeout.com/tokyo

COMPILED BY: JOYCE LAM, IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK

Discover Tokyo by bicycle

GO WILD If you want to explore Japan’s forests and mountains by bicycle, head to Okutama (around one hour and 40 minutes by local train from Shinjuku) where you can rent a mountain bike from Trekkling. 197 Hikawa Okutamamachi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station). Call to reserve: 0428 74 9091. trekkling.jp/english/index. html. 9am-5pm (closed on irregular weekdays, bike pickups close at 3pm).

From ¥2,500/day

Going underground?

Welcometo tothe theworld’s world’smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 75 For

Getting Around

Autumn eats ’Tis the season for foodie festivals

Getting Around

1. 27th Hokkaido Fair in Yoyogi This gut-busting bonanza in Yoyogi Park features over 100 stalls of Hokkaido cuisine. Feast on freshly grilled seafood and lamb meat, superb sashimi and miso ramen. Cheapos will enjoy the ¥390 special menu. Oct 2-4. 10am-6pm. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya (Harajuku, Yoyogi-Koen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). tinyurl.com/TOThokkaido27 2. Tsukemen Grand Prix presents: Tsukemen vs Ramen Every week over the month of October, five tsukemen joints and five ramen shops go head to head, with the burden of picking a winner left to you, the slurpers.

Restaurants from all over the country will be participating. Oct 2-25. 11am-9pm.

Okubo Park Theatre Park, 2-42-3 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku, Seibu-Shinjuku stations). tinyurl.com/TOTramentsuke 3. Shibuya Nonbei Yokocho Festival Shibuya’s ‘Drunkard’s Alley’ boasts bars, bistros and quirky shops right by the station, providing a taste of bygone times. This annual autumn festival packs everything from jazz performances to mikoshi parades, in addition to special offerings of food and drink at virtually all of the alley’s eateries. Oct 8-10. 6pm-11pm.

Nonbei Yokocho, 1-25-10 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTshibuyanonbei

6. Tokyo Ramen Show The greatest ramen makers from all over Japan gather in Komazawa Olympic Park for every noodle-lover’s dream event.

Slurp up regional specialities and try new soups and combinations created just for this occasion. Oct 23-Nov 3. 10am-9pm (Oct 27,28 & Nov 3 until 6pm). Komazawa Olympic Park General Sports Ground Central Plaza, 1-1 Komazawa-Koen, Setagaya (Komazawa-Daigaku Station). tinyurl.com/TOTshowramen

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7. Aoyama Bread Festival This event is a great opportunity to stock up on quality baked goodies, offered by a total of more than 40 bakeries, cafés and shops. You can also look forward to handdrip coffee, wine, cheese, jam and more.

Oct 24-25. 10am-5pm. United Nations University Farmers’ Market, in front of UN University, 5-53-70 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando, Shibuya stations). tinyurl. com/TOTaoyamabread 8. Kanda Curry Grand Prix There are over 300 curry shops in Kanda, and this event brings together more than 20 to do battle for the Grand Prix title. Sample the spicy delicacies and vote for your favourite – the winners are announced at the end of the event. Oct 30: 4pm-8pm, Oct 31: 11am-7pm, Nov 1: 11am-5pm. Ogawa Square, 3-6 KandaOgawacho, Chiyoda (Ochanomizu, Jinbocho stations). tinyurl.com/TOTkanda-curry

4. Tokyo Vegefood Festa In October, one of the more long-suffering communities gets its moment in the sun: the vegans. Tokyo Vegefood Festa boasts around 100 stalls including macrobiotic cafés, vegetable vendors and fair trade goods. As a new addition for this year, the Vege Festa Night on October 17 features live music in the cool evening air. Oct 17-18. 10am-5pm. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho (Harajuku, Yoyogi-Koen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTvegefood

9. Deutschlandfest The German Embassy presents this annual festival offering sausages and beer, traditional German handicrafts, workshops and dance performances. Learn how to make bread or pick up some handmade candles. Oct 30-Nov 3. 11am-9pm (Oct 30 4pm-9pm, Nov 3 11am-8pm).

Metropolitan Aoyama Park (southern section sports ground), 7 Roppongi, Minato (Nogizaka, Roppongi stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTdeutschfes

5. Nihonbashi Bettara-Ichi Feel the spirit of Edo at this festival featuring more than 400 stalls – the main attraction is bettara-zuke, the daikon radish pickles known as a local speciality.

The festival also has mikoshi parades and a magical atmosphere at night when the street in front of the shrine is lit up with lanterns. Oct 19-20. 12pm-9pm. Takarada Ebisu Shrine, 3-10-11 Nihonbashi-Honcho, Chuo (Ningyocho, Kodenmacho stations). tinyurl.com/TOTbettara-ichi

10. Cheese Festa November 11 is Cheese Day in Japan, and fromage fiends can get their fix at this twoday event featuring seminars and tastings of both Japanese and foreign cheese, as well as an award ceremony for the best cheese recipe. There’ll be hundreds of different types on display, many of them available to buy. Nov 11-12. 11.30am-8pm (Nov 12 until 7pm). Ebis 303, 3F Event Hall, 1-20-8 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). tinyurl.com/TOTfestacheese

76 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

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[TOHOKU UPDATE]

New learning for a new future Akiko Toya visits a recently launched centre in Ogatsu that aims to build awareness and offer interactive learning for children affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake

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FISHING AND FORESTRY One of the main programmes of Moriumius Lusail involves fishing.

Depending on the season, children go out to fish for scallops, sea squirts and oysters. One draw of the programme is that freshly caught seafood can be ‘cleaned’ on the ship and eaten on the spot. When the children first see sea squirts fished from the sea, they shout things like, ‘It’s a monster!’ Their first taste of this delicacy seems to be ‘a little bitter’. They also get involved in

chose to renovate an old building, even though it would have cost less to build a brand-new building.

The point, however, is to retain the wooden schoolhouse’s 90-year history, especially in this town where almost none of the original buildings remain. Many residents are still forced to live in temporary housing and the local elementary school is still in a state of disrepair after the tsunami. While visiting the centre, take time to visit the town’s school and other areas to increase your and your children’s awareness of those who are still suffering. forestry, using hatchets and saws to cut out trees. The cut wood is later used as material for woodworking programmes.

MOUNTAIN ADVENTURING Just nearby the centre there’s a winding stream along which the children can go on little adventures. Some children wear streamclimbing shoes that help them not to slip and slide, but others brave it barefoot, enjoying the feel of the moss-covered rocks underfoot.

There’s no need to worry about it being dangerous as attentive staff are present at all times. Harmony with nature is an important theme

here, and the water used at the centre and in the fields is circulated by state-of-the-art technology.

OPEN-AIR BATHING At the open-air bath next door, you can see the local craftsmanship handed down from ancient times – in the fences made of bamboo that’s sourced from the mountains, or in the walls that are painted with soil. The firewood that’s used to heat the bath water is split by hand by the children who visit the facility.

Children go out to fish for scallops, sea squirts and oysters

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REMEMBERING WHY WE’RE HERE The founders of Moriumius Lusail

INSPIRING LEADERS Children of all ages from Japan and abroad gather at Moriumius Lusail, encouraging diverse encounters.

Younger elementary school students follow the lead of the older students; older elementary school students follow the lead of junior high school students; junior high school students follow the volunteer leaders; and the leaders follow the local artisans and professionals from various fields who visit the centre – there is always somebody to be inspired by here. Spending time with new friends of various nationalities, ages and backgrounds is another wonderful way to expand awareness.

For more information, visit www.moriumius.jp

IMAGES: © MORIUMIUS LUSAIL

he town of Ogatsu in Miyagi Prefecture lost approximately 80 percent of its buildings and houses during the tsunami caused by 2011’s Great East Japan Earthquake. To help rebuild the community and provide an interactive learning environment for the town’s children, a new centre opened in July this year. Moriumius Lusail (the name means ‘forest, sea, and tomorrow’ in Japanese) welcomes elementary and junior high school kids, and features a variety of programmes where children can experience fishing and forestry. The centre is housed in an old school building, which closed down in 2002 but has now been renovated for its new purpose. To see just how the centre is helping to encourage change and development, I went along for some first-hand experience...

Find your way in Harajuku Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box

Moshi Moshi Nippon Festival 2015 Register beforehand and flash your foreign passport to gain free entry

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he Moshi Moshi Nippon Project, which aims to spread Japan’s pop culture around the world, will hold the Moshi Moshi Nippon Festival 2015 in Tokyo this November, offering fashion, music, food and more. Similar events have already been held in Taiwan, Paris, London and other cities this year, all of which have been hugely successful. On stage you’ll be treated to Kyary Pamyu Pamyu (this issue’s cover star), Natsume Mito, Dempagumi.inc, Golden Bomber, to name just a few. Hungry? Head over to the free entry area for a meat fest. Nov 6-8 at the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, www.moshimoshi-nippon.jp

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s the shopping district that symbolises Japanese pop culture, Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating.

Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist information centre that’s right in the heart of the area.

To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area, including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as courier assistance, a foreign currency exchange machine, and free wi-fi. But that’s not all: aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities such as karaoke. There’s also a souvenir shop where you can pick up must-haves like a traditional tenugui, Mt Fuji artwork and even a pair of sushi socks. And don’t leave without trying the character-themed crepes. 3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp.

Daily 10am-6pm.

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too!

Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Select Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops

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ime Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for nearly all the top areas including Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

We’ve also recently expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Ise-Shima or Sapporo in Hokkaido – both make for a great mini getaway.

80 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

All of these publications, along with issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Prince Park Tower Tokyo and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run.

Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) and more restaurants

Has sushi lost its roots?

Takeo Funabiki wrestles against the modern forms of Japan’s biggest culinary export

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IMAGE: AIR7650/PIXTA

hy is it that non-Japanese people, who once balked at the thought of raw fish, have now started eating sushi?

As a Japanese person, this feels at once rewarding, embarrassing and frustrating. Nobody seems to remember that the Japanese were once discriminated against as ‘weirdos who eat raw fish’. This ‘historical awareness’, however, does not seem to be shared by our younger generation, so losing my temper is really quite pointless.

After all, my anger flows from a major misunderstanding: what people around the world eat these days isn’t really sushi (鮓) – it is ‘sushi’. Now you might be confused – isn’t sushi just sushi? Well, sure, sushi is sushi, but the original Japanese term and what people mean by ‘sushi’ nowadays do not always refer to the same thing.

On the origin of sushi species Forty or 50 years ago, a new ‘species’ of sushi, topped with avocado and mayonnaise, was born in California. Later referred to as the California Roll, this innovative creation appealed to Westerners’ fascination with new things and came to be associated with health and diet foods. Slowly, types of ‘sushi’ that had little or nothing in common with the original came into being, as I personally found out at a

Japanese restaurant in the Nordics around the year 1990, when I was ‘treated’ to some terrible ‘sushi’ while celebrating my son’s birthday.

This new group of species known as ‘sushi’ has subcategories – ‘maki’ and ‘nigiri’ – and is steadily expanding. The original Japanese strain of sushi lives on, but it has now become part of a larger whole.

This is what I mean when arguing that 鮓 is ‘sushi’, but not all ‘sushi’ is 鮓. One should also note that even the original is undergoing change – call it degeneration or evolution – with stray subspecies like ‘natto temaki’, upsetting the intentions of selfproclaimed purveyors of ‘Edomae’ sushi, who pretend to offer the most original kind.

‘sandwich’ can now be used even for non-culinary purposes – it aptly describes a certain pro wrestling move. This makes me wonder if we’ll eventually start using ‘sushing’ in reference to the way football players jump all over each other to celebrate a goal (well, maybe not…).

Still, my anger smoulders on. Even though I know ‘sushi’ in New York is never going to be the same as 鮓 in Japan, I still feel upset when confronted with the concept. My discomfort flows from a larger problem, namely the closed-off nature of Japanese culture and cultural identity.

Here’s an analogy: football first developed in England, from where it spread around the entire globe. England, however, hasn’t been able to win the World Cup for some time. Adding insult to injury, some pundits even claim the heart and soul of football is best expressed by South Americans or – worse – by recent champions Spain. I presume the English feel their cultural identity is being violated by such claims. Yet, at the same time, I suspect the English can ease their minds by reminding themselves of their evolutionary position in this case – being ‘original’ allows for a certain sense of superiority.

Japanese were once called ‘weirdos who eat raw fish’

Food evolution is real Sushi’s culinary evolution has precedents. Take sandwiches, for example. If we accept the definition of a sandwich as meat, vegetables and other fillings placed between two slices of bread, it allows for a huge variety of ‘species’. Any allegiance to the Earl of Sandwich, the presumed originator of the word, has long since vanished. Indeed, the word

Embracing evolutionary change Returning to sushi, what I wasn’t able to do in New York was to act like a self-righteous English football fan.

If only I had managed to do so, I could have gone without losing my temper at the sight of the Big Apple’s ‘rice topped with a slice of fish’.

I should instead have rejoiced at the wonders of evolution and how far Japan’s very own sushi has come.

Perhaps the reason I fell short has to do with our isolation of culture. Japan lacks the long history of interaction with the outside world that gives the English an advantage in dealing with mutated forms of sandwiches and football.

Japanese culture has obviously spread to foreign lands before as well, but it always did so under labels like ‘exotic’ and ‘strange’. Sushi may have started out the same way, but eventually evolved into something different, just like 柔道 become ‘judo’. In the future, as they become globally accepted, more aspects of Japanese culture may undergo similar changes.

When this happens, Japanese people should consider it an honour, rather than clinging to a narrow form of cultural identity. We’re already eating gyoza tacos and onigiri burgers while dreaming of establishing a Japanese style of football – cultural evolution clearly brings net positives.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 81

You chase a van just to buy a sweet spud

By Benjamin Boas

MATSUTAKE MUSHROOMS Used in ceremonial gifts to mark the passing of the colder seasons, matsutake are the royalty of mushrooms. They are hard to find and command supreme prices, selling for around ¥20,000 per kilogram, or more! What’s so special about them?

They can grow up to 20cm in length and it’s believed their strong earthy aroma stimulates the appetite. They’ve been part of the Japanese diet for more than a thousand years and are a symbol of longevity. So if someone sends you a gift basket of mushrooms, you can take it as a massive compliment.

YAKI-IMO

Winter warm-up

(ROASTED SWEET POTATO) Many things mark the passing of autumn, but only Japan has the melodious yet slightly sad tune of the yaki-imo vendor wandering the residential neighbourhoods enticing you to sample his wares. Back in the day he’d only have a cart and a bicycle, but today you’ll hear the tune emanating from open-backed vans. This is your cue to run outside and offer him a couple of hundred yen for a spud snack. The song goes like this: ‘Ishii ya-kimo, yaki-imo, yaki-imo’ (‘Stone-baked sweet potatoes, baked potatoes, baked potatoes’). Can’t track down the van?

Look out for stalls outside shops boasting rows of the purple veg.

NABE (HOT POT) Sukiyaki! Yosenabe! Shabu-shabu! They’re not baseball cheers, they’re names of Japanese hot pot dishes popular for home parties. The word ‘nabe’ pretty much covers all of these and is essentially a kind of stew packed with vegetables, meat and/or seafood, prepared and cooked in fondue style. To host a winter nabe party of your own, you’ll need a nabe pot and a gas or electric burner.

Prepare a soup broth in the pot, then slice all ingredients into bite-sized pieces (or simply buy the nabe party pack at the supermarket) and place them in the pot until it’s about twothirds full.

Once cooked, serve in little bowls.

SANMA FISH Thin, long and silvery, this idiosyncratic fish could almost be mistaken for a Japanese wakizashi short sword. Sanma (Pacific saury) is the fish most Japanese people associate with autumn and is normally grilled whole and served with grated daikon (radish), soy sauce and, if you’re lucky, a small kabosu citrus fruit.

The sharp taste can take a bit of getting used to, but try a few and it’ll be something you look forward to year after year. Every September, the season kicks off with the Sanma Matsuri in Meguro, and after that you can find the fish at supermarkets and street food stalls.

ODEN

(A PARTICULAR TYPE OF NABE) You’ve seen it: the little collection of small vats near the cash register at the 7-Eleven or those carts in outdoor shotengai (shopping streets). But what exactly is this browncoloured collection of food soaking in water, and why is it so appealing to the masses here? The ingredients vary from region to region but generally include eggs, daikon (radish), fishcakes, meatballs and tofu – all of which are boiled in a soy-based broth. At convenience stores, each piece costs between ¥75 and ¥120, and you can mix and match your favourites to create a cheap, warming, salty, protein-rich meal.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

What to eat this winter

Wondering where to dine during the colder months?

Wonder no more...

82 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from December

ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

W

inter is coming. But the impending cold is no reason to dampen your spirits! In fact, it’s the perfect excuse to eat more – there’s even a Japanese saying that goes ‘Shokuyoku no aki’ (‘Autumn is the season for hearty appetites’). Japanese culture is famous for its appreciation of each of the four seasons, especially in the realm of food. The ingredients may not be what you’re used to, but hey, that’s never stopped you from doing anything in this country before, right? Join the locals and help yourself to one of these five delicious dishes so you can survive until the cherry blossoms come out.

You know you’re in Tokyo when…