TI 10 - May 2021

N U M B E R 1 0 M AY 2 021

T

I N T E R N AT I O N A L DIRECTOR: MANUEL SERRÃO

MARCO COSTA

CFO & Business Development in Blackspider

“WE WILL DOUBLE OUR CAPACITY” P 8&9

COMPANY

FLM WANTS TO REACH THE FIVE MILLION EURO MARK BY 2026 P6

SUSTAINABILITY

SOMELOS INVESTS THREE MILLION IN PHOTOVOLTAIC PANELS P4

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

HERE ARE THE LONG-AWAITED FFF WINNERS P 12&13

GROWTH

FASHION DOUBLES RDD TURNOVER IN 2020 P 14

COMPANY

INOVAFIL DEVELOPS HELMET FOR THE GERMAN ARMY P3

CIRCULARITY

TRACEABILITY IS ONE OF IMPETUS GROUP'S PRIORITIES P 10

02

T

May 2021

GROUP

www.spormex.com

Events • Exhibitions • Conferences • Fairs • Stands • Tents

THE STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIP THAT ELEVATES YOUR BUSINESS ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD.

NORTH PORTUGAL

SOUTH PORTUGAL

+351 253 233 000

+351 218 942 148

comercial@spormex.pt

comercial.lx@spormex.pt

33 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN ASSEMBLING EVENTS AND EXHIBITIONS:

May 2021

T

03

INOVAFIL DEVELOPS HELMET FOR THE GERMAN ARMY

n EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão

CONGRATULATIONS, DEAR TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The fibre producer Inovafil is working in partnership with the German army to develop the coating for a military helmet.

The Portuguese company is responsible for producing the entire textile interior of the helmet, with thermoregulation technology that makes it more comfortable and adjustable to different weather conditions.

“Helmets have been around for a long time, and they fulfil their function. However, now the goal is to go further and innovate, making them not only

safer, but also more comfortable.

We are going to cover the helmet with a thermoregulating fibre, which has the ability to manage the temperature according to the environment around”, says Rui Martins, CEO of Inovafil.

According to the businessman, we are talking about “a phase change material”, a liquid that changes its state according to temperature. That is, when exposed to high temperature, the material becomes liquid, and when exposed to a lower temperature it becomes solid.

“When the liquid inside our clothes goes below 26 degrees, it becomes solid, so that the heat does not come out, and the body temperature is maintained.

When, with this same garment, we move to an environment with a temperature of above 26 degrees, it turns liquid, changes state, letting the heat out and making the garment cooler”, explains Rui Martins.

The thermoregulation fibre, which is already being marketed

by Inovafil, will be used to coat the German army helmets.t

In the beginning was the Word... export. And nothing has changed because nothing can change!

In this editorial, we decided to pay tribute to the TCI, the textile and clothing industry.

The whole TCI. The one that fights all crises.

The one who never lowers its arms.

The one that reinvents itself in the face of each new difficulty.

The one that goes to the end of the world looking for new customers, in markets never before explored.

To the whole TCI, but also to everyone who works at the TCI. Those who don't flee hard times.

The ones who continue to give their best in times of great uncertainty.

Those who are available to reinvent themselves, to change and innovate when necessary.

Those who do not shy away from going outside their comfort zones for the sake of the companies’ success, but also of Portugal's economy.

At a time when cancelling, postponing, virtualizing and digitizing are the command words, the TCI confirms that it wants to arise, resist, and show why the verb export has been its favourite since the beginning. t

SALSA FOCUSES ON WOMEN'S FASHION FOR THE SPANISH MARKET Salsa, a Sonae group company, is developing a new store concept in the Spanish market, with the aim of strengthening its female positioning and to develop a new multi-brand operation model of growth in the omnichannel segment.

This is Salsa’s strategy – which has in Spain its second-largest market – to reach a turnover of 60 million euros, the brand’s mark before the pandemic. The Portuguese company believes it can reach this number again in 2022.

El Corte Inglés is the main Salsa channel in Spain – with a network of 70 corner shops, which account for 28% of sales in that market –, and in 2022

the Sonae company intends to strengthen its presence in large department stores.

However, the big change will come from the multi-brand channel. Salsa, which operates with 300 wholesale selling points in Spain (23% of turnover), intends to implement a model that combines in-store sales with the stock management of digital transactions.

At the same time, Salsa started implementing a new store concept in Spain, the Women Jeans Studio, dedicated almost entirely to women's fashion.

The first store under this concept opened in the summer at Calle Hermosilla, in Madrid,

and the medium-term goal is for the entire chain to have this new format, with some exceptions – such as the store located on the emblematic Gran Vía.

This way, the brand’s Spanish stores are conceptually different from the Portuguese ones, which will continue to hold both men's and women's fashion. According to the Spanish newspaper Modaes, the company's plans also include opening new stores.

Salsa's distribution network in Spain also includes its own digital channel and marketplaces, which accounted for 23% of 2020 turnover (compared with 14% in 2019). t

T

Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal NIF: 501070745 Editor: Mário Jorge Machado Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-03164 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: tdetextil@atp.pt Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: cl.tdetextil@gmail.com ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http:// tjornalinternational.com/editorial-statute/

PROMOTED BY

CO-FINANCED BY

04

T

May 2021

PORTUGAL IN 5TH PLACE PRODUCING FOR FASHION GIANTS Fashion giants have reduced their dependence on China as a production supply centre after the Covid-19 pandemic, and Portugal appears to be one of the alternative countries gaining from the changes induced by the health crisis. The top 5 of the production markets, right after China (which still remains in first place), are Turkey, Bangladesh, India and Portugal. The four largest fashion producers in the world (Inditex, H&M, Fast Retailing and Gap) now aggregate, according to data collected by the Spanish newspaper Modaes.

"Carvema has reached a level where it can only grow in quality, not in size or quantity" José Carvalho Carvema Administrator

JF ALMEIDA EQUIPS MARBELLA CLUB HOTEL

JF Almeida's bedroom, table and bath textiles will equip the Marbella Club Hotel Golf Resort and SPA, which entrusted the company with the complete renovation of its textiles. To rise to the challenge, JF Almeida designed a special collection for the hotel, made with noble materials, natural fibres, more environmentally friendly production processes, and careful finishes. The products will be made from “high-quality organic cotton thread”, guarantees João Almeida, the group's Bussiness Manager. t

SOMELOS INVESTS THREE MILLION IN PHOTOVOLTAIC PANELS Somelos has just completed an investment of three million euros in photovoltaic panels, which in total will manage to save around 20% on the company’s energy bill.

This investment started in 2020, and will reduce the fabric company's CO2 emissions by two tons.

In all, 7250 panels were installed, which can produce 4,500 megawatts of energy annually and thus lessen Somelos' energy bill. In addition to being another step taken in line with the company's sustainability concerns, it is a strategy that also is present in the collections.

“Currently, a large portion of our collec-

tion demonstrates our strong commitment to sustainable materials. Linen, cotton, merino wool: everything is certified”, guarantees Gabriela Melo, Creative and Design director at Somelos Fabrics, for whom this strategy, in addition to the benefits for the planet, also presents many commercial advantages.

“Today, people are looking for quality, they want less, but better, and that is the best sustainable strategy. Sustainability and quality go hand in hand because if something has quality, it will last longer and that is the best thing you can do for the planet. Somelos is a synonym of quality, so this is a trend that suits us very well!”, jokes the director. t

TINTEX JOINS THE MANIFESTO FOR DECARBONIZATION Tintex Textiles is one of the signatories of the most recent manifesto prepared by the Business Council for Sustainable Development (BCSD). The document includes 11 points with goals related to nature, Research & Development, and Energy, among others, designed to accelerate decarbonization and sustainability.

Tintex has been making remarkable progress in redu-

cing its ecological footprint, and this new commitment, led by CEO Ricardo Silva, is another step on the path towards sustainable transition.

The entrepreneur joins more than 80 entities, which also subscribe to the document.

The ‘Towards COP26’ Manifesto reinforces the urgency of debating climate change and the relevance of the 26th United Nations Con-

ference on Climate Change, scheduled for November, in Glasgow. “Limiting the Earth’s warming to 1.5°C implies reducing by half the global emissions by 2030. If climate action was limited to the policies currently under way, this would result in a minimum global warming of 2.9°C”, alerts the Business Council for Sustainable Development. t

IMPETUS ADDS NEW RECYCLED YARNS TO ITS PRODUCTION

PORTUGUESE COMPANIES HIGHLIGHTED IN PV SPORTS

Impetus group decided to go further and add two new types of yarn to its range: E*Retrace and the 100% carbon positive cotton yarn Good Earth Cotton (GEC). The company is increasingly choosing recycled fabrics made from post-consumer material or industrial waste mixed with virgin fibres.

Première Vision’s selection for autumn-winter 2022-23 in the ‘Sports’ category is already known, and strongly highlights the made in Portugal. Lemar, Familitex, LMA, A. Sampaio & Filhos, Tintex and RDD are the Portuguese companies that saw their fabrics chosen by the organization of Premiére Vision as sports trends, with a total of 19 options.

80%

is Riopele's goal for sustainable production by 2025

PERYOD: THE PORTUGUESE BRAND FOCUSED ON FEMINISM Peryod is a new fashion brand that puts women in the centre of the feminist cause. The name, which refers to the menstrual period, is the beginning of a statement that is extended to all the pieces, which combine comfort, simplicity and sustainability with messages of female empowerment like “Let me feminist you”, “Woman influence” and “Proudly Feminist”. Launched on March 8, International Women's Day, the brand embraces the feminist cause, with symbolic phrases stamped on the pieces, accompanied by a simple and transversal look for women of all ages.

May 2021

T

05

06

MASK PRODUCTION BECAME A CASE STUDY IN 2020 Production is now scarce, but masks are here to stay.

Exports continue, as masks became another product in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry portfolio, but the agility, speed and efficiency with which the textile sector responded to the health crisis has become yet another case study that highlights the country’s know-how. The president of ATP estimates that “the bet made on masks weighed 20% to 30% on the sales of many companies in 2020, making a decisive contribution to balance accounts, and avoid furloughs.

T

May 2021

"Every day, just to make yarn, we are preventing three tons of waste" Patrícia Ferreira Valerius Hub CEO

FOR IDEPA, "IT IS TIME TO GET BACK TO THE GAME" For the Portuguese company Idepa, it’s about time for the textile sector to return to its normal activity, with the reinforcement of its recycled and sustainable solutions. “For those who like football, we can say that the last year and a half was an intermission, where some things were done, but still an intermission. Now it's time to get back to the game”, explains Nuno Almeida, commercial director at Idepa. For the new season, the company will present a reinforcement of recycled and sustainable solutions, “a macro trend, and it is here to stay”, states Nuno Almeida.

FLM PLANS TO REACH FIVE MILLION EURO BY 2026

RIOPELE WANTS ITS PRODUCTION TO BE 80% SUSTAINABLE

Specialist in sportswear, underwear and swimwear production, FLM Têxtil has just obtained the ISO 9001 certification, the most widely used standard, and an international reference for Quality Management Systems Certification.

For the company, this is an important step in the path to amount, by 2026, a turnover of five million euros, and to reach the one hundred employees mark.

According to Filipe Marinho, leader and founder, FLM Têxtil also plans to move its facilities to a space “that is ours, and that is open to whoever wants to enjoy it, thus creating a connection with the community where we operate. Furthermore, we want it to be a building that fits in with nature, and conveys our mission and vision”. The change will make possible to add packaging, distribution, logistics and brand management sectors to the company’s internal activities, which will lead to an estimated sales volume of around five million euros.

After having started a partnership with the University of Minho to implement the requirements of the 'Global Recycled Standard'

Riopele has set new environmental and sustainability goals: by 2025, it wants 80% of its products to be fully sustainable – having already reached, in this segment, a share of 45%. The company's decision, led by CEO José Alexandre Oliveira, follows Riopele’s long-established commitment to sustainability: “When I started working at the company in 1979, we already had projects to save water and to become energy efficient”.

In the last five years, the company has reduced its energy consumption by around 16%, not only through the installation of a photovoltaic solar plant, but also through the purchase of industrial equipment with greater energy efficiency. Over the past five years, Riopele has cut CO2 emissions by 13% for every meter of fabric it produced.

Currently, 48% of the energy that Riopele uses comes from renewable sources, but José Alexandre Oliveira believes that, “given the evolution that is being registered in the energy sector, namely with strong business investments, it will be perfectly possible for Riopele to consume only green electricity in 2027”.

The company also recycles around 55% of water, while a central rainwater collector installed on the roofs of its industrial building supplies 2% of the water consumed in the manufacturing processes.

Present in more than 30 markets, to which it exports 95% of its production, Riopele has around 700 customers, including major brands such as Massimo Dutti, El Corte Inglès or Zara. t

certification, and ensure that all products are made with minimum impact on the environment, FLM Têxtil now obtained the ISO 9001 certification, “which ensures the consistency and improvement of work practices, including the products made and services provided”, states the company.

About to celebrate ten years of existence, FLM Têxtil has evolved since 2016 from 7 to 28 employees, and from a sales volume of 907 thousand euros to an estimated 1.7

million in 2021. Initially manufacturing conceptual underwear, FLM Têxtil added swimwear and technical sports items to its portfolio, and began to internally ensure the product development, manufacturing and cutting processes.

In the short and medium term, FLM Têxtil will continue with the GRS and GOTS certification processes, and will intensify production control and monitoring systems, as well as Information and Business Intelligence.t

FALCÃO INVESTS 1.1 MILLION IN PORTUGAL 2030 Falcão group is preparing an investment project of more than 1.1 million euros within the scope of Portugal 2030 investment program. António Falcão, the group's CEO, told T that the group's intention is to increase its productive capacity.

The new investment is part of Falcão's reindustrialization strategy, which became a reality

during the pandemic. In fact, in recent months, the group stopped working only as a trader to become a manufacturer and trader.

In recent months, Falcão has invested around half a million euros – 250,000 in Falcão and an identical amount in Fitexar, the group’s two companies – to follow this strategy. “Children's underwear and lingerie are our core business,

but with the pandemic, we became less a trading company to be more an industry”, says António Falcão. These investments were made using equity capital.

The group earned around 11 million euros in 2020, a little less than the 12 million achieved last year.

However, the decrease poses no serious difficulties to the Falcão group, stresses the group's CEO. t

May 2021

T

07

08

T

May 2021

n INTERVIEW Marco Costa At 36 Marco Costa, accumulates the financial and the commercial direction of Blackspider – and still adds a profound knowledge of the company’s reality and external circumstances in which it evolves. In order not to let the pandemic interfere too much the company has moved forward to a structural investment that had been thought of before the appearance of the sanitary crisis.

The new facilities will enable to maintain and strengthen their distinctive features and also, according to Marco Costa, to increase with exports, which seems to be the healthiest form of corporate growth

PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

"WE WANT TO INCREASE EXPORTS UP TO 50% OF OUR PROFITS"

May 2021

d

espite the pandemic, Blackspider’s, owner of the brand Cristina Barros, not only didn’t stop but continued to expand, even with some restrictions. The need for new facilities, already felt before the pandemic, will move forward, to be ready by next year.

collection we are closing the sales of Spring-Summer 2021 and I can say we haven’t suffered major changes.

You have a company in Spain that directly supplies that market. Outside Spain the remaining markets were at a good level. What is the percentage of exports in your turnover?

Around 40%.

T

09

Donald Trump’s Presidency?

We didn’t. I don’t know if it has to do with the type pf product we offer.

European Fashion is highly valued in the United States and I believe this may be one of the reasons. There is a great demand for “made in Portugal” with the quality and design associated to it.

“Made in Portugal” is becoming an increasingly stronger point for companies.

It is already a synonym of quality.

Is it a comfortable percentage for you?

It is never comfortable. When we decided to bet on internationalization we placed our focus on the 50-50. We aim to increase exports up to 50% of the income.

When did you feel this leap forward?

You are preparing a structuring investment. What can you say about that?

You started internationalization in 2012.

Is there a before and an after this date?

We aim to increase our ability to meet demands, and to accept new challenges.

These new challenges require other type of facilities, therefore we need new ones which will, most of all, address the demands we currently have.

Exactly.

It is often said that brand creation is one of the difficulties felt by Portuguese companies. Is Blackspider here to demonstrate the opposite? What’s the secret?

How was the company before 2012?

The company appeared in 2001 and up to 2012 it was focused on the national market.

Private label or own brand?

Built from scratch?

There are going to have 4.200 m2 – which means we will double our capacity at the moment. The building will serve as warehouse but also as office, and we will set up the company's headquarters there too. The estimated investment will be around 1,5 and 2 million euros. The works have already started – this year – and we expect to be working in the new facilities. It is clear that the pandemic situation delayed some bureaucracies but this is what we predict.

There won’t be many companies doing an investment of this dimension in a pandemic phase. Does it mean that Covid-19 hasn’t affected the company?

It hasn’t affected us in a profound way. Of course we feel its effects – mainly by the cancelation of several international trade fairs that used to open new markets and raise brand awareness. This dimension has been affected. However, if we consider our regular customers we can say that we haven’t been affected: we keep the same customers, who continue to buy.

Therefore there was no reason to postpone investments.

When we started the project for the new facilities it was leveraged in a base and strength that already existed. There was no reason to cancel the project.

Haven’t 2020 revenues been affected as well?

2020 revenues will have a small reduction but they are in line with 2019.

Will 2021 be the year of economy recovery?

I believe it will the a sort of foundation year. It will be the beginning of a new cycle, probably in the second half of the year.

Mainly own brands. Then we decided to start a project with QREN support and bet on internationalization. After that it has been one of the main focus of the company.

Was the creation of the company in Spain the first step?

No, we launched it before, for three or four years.

How was brand management done?

We started with Blackspider and only launched Cristina Barros later on.

We only felt a change in the Spanish market. The remaining markets we work with were always in the same level. We haven’t suffered changes neither in terms of revenues nor orders. As we work per

António Dinis CEO of Dilina Têxteis

Maybe after 2016. After that “Made in Portugal” became an added value. We are working this fact very well.

We are very sought after due to the quality of our service. We have twenty year-old customers who have bought for the first time, and never stopped doing so. That’s a synonym of quality not only of the product but also the service. One of the secrets is our team, which is very united and qualified.

What are the service’s main assets?

The compliance with production and delivery deadlines and the ability to repeat are all very important features. I can assure you there are few companies able to do what we do, the commercial part, warehouse, distribution, customer assistance department – everything is aligned and we manage to accomplish all the goals.

How do you foresee the future of trade fairs after the pandemic experience?

We feel that trade fairs are getting stronger and are reinventing themselves. It is in times of crisis that people manage to innovate and find new ways to overcome their difficulties. Trade fairs are going to become stronger after the pandemic.

Why did you replace the name Blackspider with Cristina Barros?

We had both male and female collections and we decided to focus more on the feminine segment. It seemed like Blackspider wasn’t a very attractive name to this segment. We found out that, after all, a Portuguese name sells better abroad.

What makes the product distinctive?

How was the internationalization experience?

In 2012 Portugal was still suffering with 2008’s profound economic downturn and the company felt that widening the horizons was the answer. We knew that if we worked well we would have demand.

Which were the first expansion markets?

France, United Kingdom and Poland.

It is 100% produced in Portugal, we work with noble materials and we excel with our design, which I can characterize as innovative. Our customer’s feedback is that it is difficult to have garments that are both pretty and comfortable. That’s what we manage: to provide comfort and design.

Besides that the collection is transversal with respect to age – a casual-chic product targeted to a medium-high segment.

What are the main markets at present?

It is still France. We added Ireland – which we are working very well - Germany and the United States, where we have been for around one year and a half.

Do you still work with private label?

What are the companies’ growing geographical locations?

Are online sales attractive to companies?

We are working with Canadá. We are going to start a showroom there, the second one. We believe it has potential: the market is similar to the United States and as we were successful there it seems to be a good hypothesis. We already have customers in Canada who are requesting repetitions. When we closed the first showroom the clients got in touch wanting to buy from us directly.

We still have some private label requests but we manufacture our brands mostly.

The weight of the private label is residual.

We will have a reserved area to our clients but the company policy is not to have direct online sales.

Do you mean that physical shops aren’t in your horizon as well?

No, direct sales are for our clients. Our policy is not to compete with them and they value this very much. On the contrary, we are planning to experiment marketplaces.

How do you see the future of the sector?

How did the worst lockdown phase go in international terms?

the questions of

Are the United Sates working well?

Very well. There was a decrease in this pandemic phase but we hope that next year will be better.

Did you feel any constraint from North-american economy in these four years of

It is normally in the end of periods of crisis that major steps can be taken. There is an opportunity for Portuguese companies, which have always had the skills.

Competition based on price seems to be being replaced by other factors that may be a benefit for national textiles. t

Cândido Correia CEO of Givec

In what way did the cancellation of trade fairs affect Cristina Barros businesses?

Trade fairs are extremely important to promote the brand, mainly to acquire new customers. The cancellation of trade fairs slowed down the growth pace in some markets and influenced buyer’s trust negatively. We have managed to minimize losses through our showrooms.

Is the offer targeted to the active woman to keep or are you planning to diversify to other market segments?

Our collections are always focused on woman because the active woman values our timeless garments the most. Therefore we have no intention of diversifying to other market segments.

10

T

May 2021

GET IN VIBE, THE NEW BRAND OF THE GIVEC GROUP It is the new brand from the Givec group and wants to empower women with vibrant colours, versatile cuts, and comfortable high-quality fabrics. Get in Vibe was a project developed between mother, Isabel Correia, CEO of Givec, and daughter, Ana Gomes, fashion designer. The designer's three daughters are the inspiration for the entire collection. . “It's a fresher brand, where slow fashion is prioritized. Most of the fibres are of natural or recycled origin, and everything is made in Portugal”, reveals Ana Gomes.

"We have a team completely focused on the online, that's where the future is"

VALÉRIUS 360 REACHES LONDON AND CANADA

Keep Moving, Valérius 360's first fashion film, is selected for the London Fashion Film Festival and Canadian International Fashion Film Festival.

Through a symbolic narrative, Valérius 360 intends to awaken viewers to the life cycle of clothing and textile recycling. With a short video, the young recycling unit also tries to convey its values, and present its products and services, while inspiring the audience to think ahead and “let the pieces continue their circular movement towards sustainability”. t

TRACEABILITY IS ONE OF IMPETUS GROUP'S PRIORITIES Continuing to follow the path of sustainability and reinforcing transparency and circularity is the main goal of Acatel, Impetus Group's dyeing, mercerization, printing, knitting and fabric finishing company. The company's new CEO, Susana Serrano, is preparing to launch new products on the market.

Among the novelties, stands out the partnership established with Good Earth Cotton, a company that produces cotton in accordance with good practices, which allow a zero-carbon index. “We have developed an excellent line made only with this cotton, which is being very well received by our customers”, adds the CEO of Acatel.

The product’s circularity, resulting of a partnership with Texloop, a company that develops yarns using textile waste, is also a bet of Impetus Group, which now presents a line that incorporates 47.5% of this recycled yarn in the knits composition.

However, the use of planet-friendly raw

materials is not enough for the Impetus Group, who announces another partnership, in this case with Fibretrace, a technology that, through a small device, allows the article’s tracking. “A pigment is placed, in this case in the Good Earth Cotton, which, later, through a small device, allows us to check whether the piece was actually produced with this cotton”, explains Susana Serrano.

“If the light is green, we know that the piece is made with Good Earth Cotton, which, in this case, was the pigmented material. If the light is red, we know that the piece does not have this material in the composition”, she clarifies. Traceability and transparency are the new greatest goals of the Impetus Group.

For the future, the group plans to develop, also in a partnership regime, a more advanced traceability device that allows not only to identify raw materials, but also to measure the percentage of each component in the fabric’s global composition. t

Bruno Correia Play Up Manager Director

EURATEX CALLS FOR EU SUPPORT AGAINST ENERGY PRICE RISET Following the exponential rise in energy prices in several countries of the European Union – Portugal included – which caused costs to increase up to three times last year, Euratex calls on the European Commission to counterbalance these increases by ending the energy’s associated fees.The European organization for textiles and clothing asks the Commission to ease the burden of energy costs by reducing the ICMS - Tax on the Circulation of Goods and Services, applied to any product sold or service provided, as the energy supply.

3,1

millions was the growth of Portuguese exports at the end of July, when compared to 2019

ADALBERTO INSPIRES VALENTINO AND DIOR

PRINTS ARE SAN MARTIN'S NEW BET In a year that put weddings, christenings and other ceremonies on indefinite pause, San Martin, a company specialized in fabrics and accessories for haute couture, decided to invest in printed fabrics, a very different segment from its core business, in order to deal with the drop in sales caused by the pandemic.

A strategy that allowed the company to keep its head over water, and whose success dictated the entry into the San Martin’s portfolio.

“The prints open doors to a more varied market, so we decided to create this line and turn business from the ceremony to the “chic” segment.

We were satisfied with the

result, and are going to keep it in our portfolio. We can only win”, guarantees Nuno Lemos, Co-Owner of SanMartin.

Alongside this new bet, the company is also leaving its mark on sustainable production by investing in chiffons and sustainable satins, and by introducing cotton lace and macramé in the haute couture and bridal lines.t

The collection presented by Adalberto at MODTISSIMO is becoming an inspiration for haute couture brands such as Valentino and Dior. The designs are digitally made, and seek inspiration in tarot cards. “We are setting trends for the future, and that is what we are proud of: being one step ahead”, says the company on social networks. This collection also uses 3D, explored at Adtech, Adalberto’s new laboratory.

May 2021

T

11

100 95 75

25 5 0

Anuncio T Internacional 235x295(241x301)cm ER 2021 quarta-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2021 10:30:58

12

T

May 2021

6

2. THE MUCH DESIRED TROPHIES. MORE THAN 170 COMPETING FILMS ASPIRED TO TAKE HOME SUCH A STATUE

PHOTOSYNTHESIS by: António Moreira Gonçalves

1. ELEGANT, AS ALWAYS, THE ENTREPRENEUR AND MODEL DIANA PEREIRA CONDUCTED THE FFF GALA, WHICH WAS HELD AT CASTELLO LOPES CINEMAS, IN ESPAÇO GUIMARÃES

6. MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO, PRESIDENT OF ATP AND MEMBER OF THE JURY, WAS ALSO THE HOST AND ANNOUNCED THE WINNER OF THE CATEGORY BEST FASHION FILM, ONE OF THE MAIN AWARDS

HERE ARE THE LONG-AWAITED FFF WINNERS The 7th edition of the Fashion Film Festival was rich in suspense.

These were really the most expected awards of the great Portuguese competition for fashion cinema.

Tradition was kept and a presential ceremony was held, gathering public, winners and jury in a loud applause. The final gala of the 7th Edition had been postponed until the conditions were finally met.

The party took place in Guimarães and celebrated both the best of national and international fashion cinema and the work developed by several Portuguese companies, from fashion to technical textiles, from sports to home textiles

5. INOVAFIL WAS ONE OF THE NIGHT’S HOSTS, RECEIVING THE AWARD FOR BEST TECHNICAL TEXTILES FILM. RUI MARTINS, THE CEO OF THE COMPANY FROM FAMALICÃO, TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO HIGHLIGHT THE GROWING VALORISATION OF INNOVATION IN ITV

11. FREDERICO MIRANDA, DIRECTOR OF “STONERS: SLICES OF INFINITY” WAS ONE OF THE NIGHT’S WINNERS, RECEIVING THE AWARD FOR BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AND BEST FASHION DESIGNER FILM. IN THE PHOTO HE IS RECEIVING AN AWARD FROM THE HANDS OF DESIGNER HUGO COSTA

10. EVEN WEARING A MASK, RAFAELA GOMES AND SOFIA LOPES, THE WINNERS OF THE FFF T NEWSPAPER AUDIENCE AWARD, DIDN’T HIDE THEIR ENTHUSIASM LAUNCHING A THANKFUL CRY TO THE ENTIRE AUDIENCE

May 2021

T

13

4. BESTICH WON THE FIRST EDITION OF THE AWARD FOR HOME-TEXTILES FILM. ANA PAULA FERNANDES AND RUI MACHADO THANKED AND TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO INVITE ALL THE PUBLIC TO WATCH THE FILM “À FLOR DO LINHO” ONCE MORE

3. RICARDO COSTA, ONE OF THE NIGHT’S HOSTS AND TOWN COUNCILLOR IN GUIMARÃES CITY HALL, ASSUMED THE DELIVERY OF THE TROPHY FOR BEST HOME-TEXTILES FILM, A NEW CATEGORY CREATED IN HOMAGE TO THE INDUSTRY LOCATED IN GUIMARÃES

8. CONCRETO WAS ANOTHER WINNING BRAND. CÉSAR DE JESUS AUGUSTO TOOK HOME THE TITLE OF BEST PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR IN FASHION BRAND FILM, WITH THE PRODUCTION OF “FROZEN TEAR”

7. IT HAD ALREADY RECEIVED THE AWARD AND HAS ONCE MORE BECOME WINNER. THE SWIMWEAR BRAND LATITID CONQUERED, WITH THE FILM “ESCAPISM”, THE TITLE OF BEST FASHION FILM AND THE AWARD WAS DELIVERED TO THE DIRECTOR LEONOR BETTENCOURT LOUREIRO

9. MANUEL SERRÃO, DIRECTOR OF T, WENT ON STAGE TO ANNOUNCE THE PUBLIC’S MOST VOTED FILM. ALL THE COMPETING FILMS WERE AVAILABLE TO BE VOTED THROUGHOUT SEVERAL WEEKS ON T NEWSPAPER'S WEBSITE

13. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! THE FASHION FILM FESTIVAL TEAM IS ALREADY PREPARING THE 2021 EDITION

12. BRUNO NACARATO RECEIVED THE AWARD FOR BEST ALIVE MOBILE FASHION FILM FROM PATRÍCIA BARNABÉ, FROM MAXIMA MAGAZINE. THIS CATEGORY RECOGNIZES PRODUCTIONS FILMED WITH SMARTPHONES OR TABLETS

14

T

May 2021

MINERALS DYES ARE TROFICOLOR'S SUSTAINABLE NOVELTY Denim specialist Troficolor Denim Makers has just launched a denim line in earth tones, dyed with minerals. A process that, the company guarantees, in addition to giving unique colours to the fabrics, is completely free of chemical products, and uses less water and energy in the dyeing process. The line goes by the name of Colour Denim Mineral Dyeing, and is entirely made with 100% organic cotton. The process begins by dyeing the yarn with clay-based mineral dyes, and after the fabric is finished, it receives a natural dye coating to fix the colour. This process, which is shorter and does not use harmful chemicals, saves around 80% of water when compared to normal dyeing.

400 PORTUGAL THE ROUTE OF MANGO’S NEW BRAND

thousand euro was how much Inarbel invested in the Skylab line The Spanish brand Mango is preparing to launch a new women's brand, Alter Made, and the Portuguese textile industry is part of the brand's set of partners. Alter Made is designed for more conscious consumers who are looking for long-lasting and timeless pieces – and Portugal is among the countries selected to collaborate with the brand in its cotton items. Alter Made wants to make a difference by producing locally and shorten supply chains, located between Europe and Turkey, and by having certified suppliers. t

FASHION MAKES RDD DOUBLE TURNOVER IN 2020 It wasn't the masks, gowns or any other personal protective equipment: RDD, the textile company of the Valerius Group, doubled its turnover in 2020, reaching eight million euros, a feat that in the midst of a pandemic year was achieved with sales made exclusively for fashion.

“For us, 2020 was a superb year. We managed to double our turnover, and it was not due to personal protective equipment. We never went into that area. It was all in our sector, which is the fashion sector”, reveals, satisfied, Elsa Parente, CEO of RDD. As the cause for that success, the businesswoman points out the company's great know-how in sustainability, its central pillar, and the fact that at a time when the market turned to the online and to slow fashion, the company knew to stand out from the competition.

“When the pandemic hit and everyone turned

online, we were already well-prepared. In addition, the online customer is very much in tune with our values: they are more informed, more demanding, more concerned with what they are buying...”, explains the CEO, adding that the demand for European products established during the pandemic was also vital. A very important paradigm shift for the Portuguese industry, which, according to Elsa Parente, is here to stay.

“Then we just joined forces with business partners that have the same values as us, and that were equally prepared for this model, and everything went very well. We have been in the sustainability business for a long time, and when a customer comes to us and asks “Do you know how to do it? Do you know this fibre?" we are already familiar with the materials and the processes. Customers like that because they can start working right away”, he adds. t

WAY 2 TEX WANTS TO BRING TOGETHER PORTUGAL AND BRAZIL The enormous size and potential of the textile sector in Brazil still has few links with its Portuguese counterpart – customs fees are the most visible impediment – and the role of Way 2 Tex, of Febratex group, is to bring businesspeople from both countries closer together. “We manage internationalization of the textile sector in both directions: from Brazilian business men to Portugal, the gateway to the European Union, and from the Portuguese to Brazil”, Giordana Madeira, executive director of the Febratex Group, told T Jornal.

"The requests from customers who were producing in Asia can be clearly seen" Mário Jorge Machado ATP's President

LIPACO BETS ON THE BEST SELLERS TO GROW IN 2021

ADALBERTO INVESTS IN SMART LABELS Providing precise information about the carbon footprint, the origin of the fibre, the place of yarn manufacture, and even the amount of water used during the manufacturing process is the purpose of Adalberto's innovative smart label or QR code. With this new tag, the company provides greater transparency to customers.

Susana Serrano, the Company's CEO, highlights that the most important thing is to have total transparency in the value chain. “In the past, we couldn't embrace the entire chain. Now we already cover the entire chain, from the moment we pick the yarn that will make the mesh until the moment it reaches the final consumer”, she explained.

Traceability is also important to attest the company's good environmental practices, such as blockchain technology, which ensures that all energy comes from renewable sources.

In terms of production processes, Adalberto has the best and fastest digital printing machine, with a production capacity of 40 meters per minute.t

In order to transform 2021 into the true year of recovery, Lipaco's goal is to grow its business volume. For that, the company decided to invest in its bestsellers, a guaranteed success. “We are betting on sustainable fibres, which always leave our customers very curious: 95% of our clients want to know more about this type of products, which are already a safe bet”, guarantees Vítor Silva, responsible for Lipaco's marketing.

T

May 2021

15

-

OPINION LINK UNIVERSITY/COMPANY: NEW GENERATION Rui A. L. Miguel President of the Textile Science and Technology Department of the Universidade da Beira Interior and Member of ATP's Advisory Board

MODELS FOR FAMILY COMPANIES AND COMPLEXITY MANAGEMENT STRUCTURES Luís Todo Bom Manager and Professor at ISCTE

The demands arising from the opening of markets, the level of knowledge of consumers and the fluctuation of the fashion cluster, associated to the huge evolution potential of science and technology, constitute an enormous challenge to companies’ competitiveness, which may only be overrun by knowledge. TCI’s industrial area requires more and more senior technicians with classic training (University Degree, Master’s or PhD) in chemistry, in the case of dying and finishing, in mechanics and electronics for the maintenance of equipment and facilities and in informatics, due to the irreversible path of digitalization.

There are, however, two professional profiles with higher education specific to TCI (Textile and Clothing Industry). Fashion Designer (textile and clothing), who associates creative skills, trends interpretation abilities, perception of clients’ needs (B2B and/or B2C), knowledge of materials and the potentiality of the available technology with sustainability concerns.

Seniors (textile and clothing) have technical knowledge on raw materials, finished products, transformation and its processes, operation and production flow and quality parameters. The study plan of these Degrees and Master’s must be eclectic and include complementary training themes, such as Lean Management, 4.0 Industry, sourcing and chain of supply, international fashion trade, sustainability and circular economy, among others. It is a professional profile targeted at in-

The several models available to manage complexity through the development of integrated structure, may be grouped as follows, by growing order of complexity: – Captain Model, which occurs in the case of a SME (small and medium sized company), in a traditional industry, managed by the founder.

– The Imperor Model, which integrates several business areas and family, united by a leader, who may or may not be the founder.

– Family Team Model, which includes an extensive family, but all working in a small traditional business.

– Professional Family Model, in which we find few members of the family, designated by the governance organs of the family, involved in a complex business.

– Corporation Model, which consists of a complex family that governs a complex company in terms of differentia-

dustrial companies but also production sourcing and products in commercial companies.

The training of this staff, with new generation upgrade that answers to current demands, must involve, in an organized manner, the participation of companies in the definition of study plans and the courses’ curricula, as well as the involvement of staff in the lecturing of some modules or seminars.

Short-term internships in companies shall be framed during the training cycle, as well as the possibility of developing master’s degrees or similar non-awarding degree courses in collaboration with companies aiming for a more assertive and specific preparation for the professional world. Still in the same line of thought, online training, in coordination with companies, may represent a very important contribution from universities to lifelong training of TCI staff.

Universities may and shall multiply what has been done in promoting the creation of startups in the TCI cluster, in business incubation and development centers, in the campus itself or in associated technological parks thus promoting entrepreneurship and self-employment for recent graduates. The strategy shall be able to attract senior consultants, investors, investment funds and also TCI companies into becoming qualified shareholders, even if minority ones, thus enabling the externalization of specific business areas with intense knowledge in science and technology. t

tion and dimension of the several business units and requires complex models of governance and family.

– Family Investment Group Model, when families invest together in businesses of varied complexity, which corresponds to a process of segregation of business areas and their distribution through several company members.

The development of the structure increases gradually in terms of complexity and management demands from the captain model until the family investment group model. In a systemic way we can state that there is a triangle of efficient management of the family company, with three areas of intervention to manage complexity: evolution of the model, complexity reduction and structure development. According to this model the efficient management of complexity implies systemic interven-

tion in three levels: 1. In the management of the evolution of the complexity model throughout the five models described below, through the changes needed to the family and company governance instruments.

2. In the reduction of complexity of the family and / or the company business areas, in the sense of reducing structural risk bearing in mind that the reduction of complexity is mandatory in case we find ourselves in limit situations.

3. In the development of the structure to manage complexity, refining the structure model and the management instruments according to the degree of complexity of the family company. *Text extracted from Manual de Gestão de Empresas Familiares, 1ª edição, Edições Sílabo, Lisboa, pp. 51-53. t

T