Ti12 - July 2021

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L DIRECTOR: MANUEL SERRÃO

GUILHERME PAIXÃO

Borgstena Group Research & Development Manager

“WE HAVE REACHED PRE-PANDEMIC PRODUCTION LEVELS” P 8&9

INNOVATION

TINTEX CREATES ALTERNATIVE LEATHER FOR JAN ‘N JUNE P3

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

A DISPLAY OF THE TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY'S FUTURE P 12&13

COMPANY

SUSTAINABILITY IS PART OF SOURCETEXTILE'S DNA P 14

GROWTH

ORFAMA INVESTS ONE MILLION EUROS IN MACHINERY P6

E-COMMERCE

FARFETCH LAUNCHES NEW PRE-ORDER SERVICE P4

HISTORY

BARCELOS CELEBRATES BARCELCOM'S 100TH BIRTHDAY P 10

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Anuncio T Internacional 235x295(241x301)cm ER 2021 quarta-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2021 10:30:58

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TINTEX CREATES ALTERNATIVE LEATHER FOR JAN ‘N JUNE

EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão

AT EASE… BUT NOT TOO MUCH

It’s an alternative to leather developed by TINTEX for a capsule collection for the German brand JAN ‘N JUNE. The innovative Portuguese textile process is based on a foam coating of 100% organic cotton mesh, and is a sustainable alternative to leather. The collection encompasses six items for daily use, ranging from pants to coats or even bags for women.

According to a statement from TINTEX, the JAN N’ JUNE brand has chosen a coating

that is distinguished by its lower environmental impact compared to traditional technologies. "No inorganic solvent is used, nor toxic or harmful substances will be found in the final product, ensuring the safety of the user, and of the environment", the statement reads. And because it is 100% cotton, "it’s very comfortable, and made from a natural raw material that grows without the use of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers”.

This is an innovative TIN-

TEX process that provides a foam-on-mesh coating, forming micro-channels in the coating that allow air to pass through. The company also carried out benchmark tests with good abrasion and friction performance, as well as water resistance.

JAN ‘N JUNE is a German brand with a strong sustainability component that sells to more than 15 countries in three continents, a factor that has reinforced its connection to TINTEX. t

A friend who I cherish a lot, and with whom I like to joke a lot, always tells me “we can be at ease... but not too much” whenever she thinks some limit is close to being crossed.

It was because of her and her words that I decided to write this text about how the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry is dealing and reacting to this endless pandemic crisis. It has already been said that the textile and clothing industry’s reaction was quick, resilient and innovative.

So it seemed that the textile and clothing industry was becoming more comfortable with the situation, managing to adapt to new times and new demands. However, with the soon arrival of autumn and the predicted rekindling of the pandemic across Europe, we realize that we can be at ease... but not too much.

Therefore, it is not surprising that many businessmen, and especially their associative representatives, have already begun to make government leaders feel the strong need to include the sector in the growing group of companies that have to keep benefiting from government and European Union aid. And it's the companies that didn't have difficulties before Covid should be the priority. t

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"EXPORTS OF GOODS IN 2021 WILL BE HIGHER THAN 2019" The Portuguese Secretary of State for Internationalization, Eurico Brilhante Dias, expects that “In 2021, Portugal will reach a higher value of exports of goods, in comparison to the one reached in 2019. Compared to 2019 (January to September) exports grew 4.8%”. The export of services, on the other hand, is still very limited by the pandemic process, which had a far greater impact than the one felt in most industries.

That means that Portugal “is effectively growing in the international market, and gaining market share in the ex-

port of goods”, says Brilhante Dias in an interview to Jornal Económico. “We have seen a very favourable behaviour in very relevant markets for our exports of goods: Spain grew more than 25% when compared to 2020, France 15%, and Germany 10%. Spain, which is our main export market, already has levels of trade of goods higher than in 2019”.

The Secretary of State for Internationalization warns, however, that “in total (goods and services), it’s not yet expected to return to pre-pandemic values: service exports are

still around 30% below 2019 values, which means that our global exports are about 6% below 2019”.

Recalling that "this pandemic affected all sectors, but in a very asymmetric way, with tourism and passenger transport being the most affected", Brilhante Dias did not fail to note that, "with the advance of vaccination, and a slowdown in the global pandemic situation, consumers are beginning to gain confidence, so our expectation is that 2023 can be the year that Portugal recovers to pre-pandemic values”. t

Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal NIF: 501070745 Editor: Mário Jorge Machado Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-03164 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: tdetextil@atp.pt Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: cl.tdetextil@gmail.com ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http:// tjornalinternational.com/editorial-statute/

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ATP CONCERNED ABOUT LACK OF WORKERS The lack of labour threatens to delay the recovery of the Portuguese textile and clothing sector in the post pandemic.

A problem that might not be a direct consequence of the salaries offered by companies, but that is linked with an image of lack of modernity and innovation that it’s no longer a reality, said in an interview the president of the ATP – The Portuguese textile and Clothing Association, Mário Jorge Machado. The solution lies in professional training, which must “continue to be promoted”, and by valuing the industry, which is due to attract young people and rejuvenate the sector.

"At the moment, Polopique is working mostly with sustainable materials" Isabel Carneiro Polopique's Vice-President

YAY RELEASES SUSTAINABLE “UGLY SWEATERS”

It is a sustainable and Portuguese version of the famous ‘Ugly Sweaters’, which appeared at Christmastime in the 50's, and are already creating a buzz. The project, designed by the Portuguese sustainable children's fashion brand Yay, is materialized in a capsule collection developed from surplus production. This collection features three models: a jumper, a dress and a reusable bag for Christmas shopping. t

FARFETCH LAUNCHES NEW PRE-ORDER SERVICE With the desire of bringing new digital experiences, and a more responsible approach to fashion, Farfetch has launched a new pre-order service available monthly, offering on firsthand several models from ten different luxury brands.

Balenciaga, Oscar de la Renta and Off White are some of the brands that have already joined this sustainable initiative. In a statement, Farfetch underlines that the new service is available to all customers, with no need for a VIP subscription. Orders take about four weeks to be shipped.

According to Jamie Freed, global vice-president of Farfetch's Private Clients division, the goal is "to create a more conscious way of

shopping so that brands can better meet the consumers’ real demands", thus making it possible to reduce stocks and waste, as well as offering a more premium buyer experience.

The advertising campaign, done partially by influencers, will also be neutral in terms of carbon footprint: virtual reality systems will be used to 'dress' the pre-order outfits.

This is yet another of Farfetch's eco-friendly initiatives, along with clothing restoration services.

Farfetch, a platform that specializes in the online sale of luxury goods, registered a profit of 75 million euros in the second quarter of 2021. Turnover rose by 43.5% to 447 million euros in the same period. t

GREENIN SUPPORTS CREATIVES WITH FUNDING PLAN In solidarity with the Portuguese artists, Greenin has just created an Artistic Development Plan, where part of the sales amount of the brand’s new 'Arte' line will be given to young artists from the most diverse areas.

For now, two pieces are avai-

lable for women (leggings and top) and two for men (t-shirt and shorts), with patterns created by the artist Falcão.

The presentation of the initiative took place in an event where several other works of the artist Falcão

helped raise the first funds for the project. Greenin present itself as a premium and sustainable brand: the materials used in its active wear clothing, are 100% made in Portugal, respect the highest standards of quality, and concern for the environment. t

CONTEXT COSTS WILL RISE CLOTHING PRICES

MAROC IN MODE AT THE END OF MARCH

Portugal is one of the few countries in Europe where inflation has not yet reached the clothing and fashion sector, but this will change. There is a storm affecting the textile and clothing industry that will be reflected in product prices from the beginning of next year.

The notice on issued by Jornal de Notícias, which says that "the cost of producing clothes will rise 15% to 50%, and will inflate prices", as a result of the combined increase in energy, transport, raw materials, and supply chain disruptions.

Due to logistical issues related to the event’s grounds, the Moroccan textile fair was postponed to March 30 and 31, 2022. The organization of AMITH – Moroccan Textile and Clothing Association expects a strong presence of Portuguese companies, especially suppliers of accessories and leather goods, with strong sustainable component. Increasingly seen as a sourcing partner for Portuguese textile and clothing industry, the textile production of this North African neighbour looks to Portugal as an important supplier, especially regarding sustainable products.

7,5 million

liters of water were already saved by Smartex technology

LOUIS VUITTON CONSIDERED THE MOST VALUABLE LUXURY BRAND Interbrand's latest report places Louis Vuitton at the top of the world's most valuable luxury fashion companies. Top Global Brands 2021 assigns the French brand the 13th place in the ranking, and is still the only one related to the fashion universe in the 20 top positions. The LVMH group's brand is currently valued at US$36.766 million, showing a 10% increase over 2020 in the brand's value. The LVMH conglomerate is strong in this ranking with the presence of Sephora, Tifanny & Co., Henessy and Dior.

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SANJO USES BUREL FABRIC IN ITS SNEAKERS For the next autumn-winter, the Portuguese Sanjo and Burel Mountain Originals are collaborating once again on a line of sneakers made in wool, coming from the Serra da Estrela sheep.

The classic K100 and K200 models once again incorporate the traditional burel, a rain-resistant fabric, ideal for cold days, and often used in coats. The models are available on the brand's official website in seven different colours: brown, burgundy, navy, grey, beige, green, and black.

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"We are the only company in Portugal that produces, under the same roof, fabrics, circular knits, ketten knits and raschel knits" ALEXANDRA ARAÚJO LMA Administrator

INDITEX STRENGTHENS ITS BET ON PROXIMITY PRODUCTION Inditex is adapting to the inflationary pressure on context costs, betting on proximity production: currently 60% of its production is being made in Portugal, Spain, Morocco and Turkey. The group is also applying a short-cycle model to ensure a quick response to the market, and simultaneously avoid stocks. In recent months, companies have witnessed a sharp increase in the costs of raw materials, sea transport, energy prices and other expenses essential to their activity, increases that have led several brands to rethink their strategy and relocate their supply network.

ORFAMA INVESTS ONE MILLION EUROS IN MACHINERY Orfama has just finalized an investment of one million euros in Shima machinery, which will allow the company to increment product differentiation and, consequently, increase profit margins. In addition to updating the equipment, the company also carried out a reorganization of the factory grounds, in order to better optimize its production processes, and expects to reach the goal of six million euros in turnover in 2021.

With this investment, which was carried out over the last three years, the company dives into the 4.0 industry movement, and is able to offer integrated production. “These new machines allow not only the Orfama team, but also the customer to monitor the entire production process online, from A to Z. This means that you know in real time the status of each product you ordered, whether it is finished or not, and when it will be delivered. It is a tremendous asset, as the customer knows what deadlines he is working with, when he should re-order, etc.”, explains António Cunha, Area Sales Manager at Orfama.

England, Germany, France,

Holland, Sweden and Denmark are Orfama's main export destinations, which works at 97% for the foreign market. The United States and Japan are in the list of countries where the company, which directs its activity to niche markets, is already present.

“Our product is differentiated, and that is why we only work with customers who are willing to pay extra for this differentiation. We

are not interested in large quantities, but in profitability”, explains António Cunha, manager of the company that has always succeeded to grow in recent years, even in times of pandemic.

“In 2019 we were a little under five million euros and in 2020 we were able to reach that goal, even during pandemic times. Now we want to reach six million”, he adds, optimistically. t

SMARTEX AWARDED BY THE PORTUGUESE INNOVATION AGENCY The technology created by the Smartex start-up to reduce waste in the textile industry was distinguished with the Born from Knowledge Award, given by the Portuguese Innovation Agency within the scope of the Altice International Innovation Awards.

Already installed in several Portuguese textile companies, the technology created by Smartex comprises sensors, cameras and accelerometers that, through com-

puter vision and artificial intelligence systems, can detect defects in fabrics right from weaving.

In addition to the cash prize of 50 thousand euros, Smartex also won the possibility of carrying out a pilot project with the Altice Group, which will happen at least for nine months.

The decision highlights that the Portuguese startup, founded by three students from the Faculty of Engineering of Porto, has developed

a technology that, through Artificial Intelligence, allows to detect imperfections in fabric production, thus avoiding defects. Therefore, the technology allows for the reduction of material and production costs, in addition to presenting significant environmental gains.

Founded by António Rocha, Gilberto Loureiro and Paulo Ribeiro, Smartex has already installed the system in at least 30 textile industrial units.t

MARITA MORENO DISTINGUISHED AT THE GERMAN DESIGN AWARDS It is yet another distinction for the sustainable accessories brand Marita Moreno, which has just been declared a winner of the renowned German Design Awards with the Dali Azores shoes, women's shoes in white cork and bicolour handcrafted weaving, produced with cork-a-tex, a cork and cotton thread. The shoes won in the Excellent Product Design and Eco Design categories.

A recognition that for Marita Setas Ferro, the brand's creative director, “has reinforced the importance of design as an aggregating element in society: for this Dali Azores model we combine technology, industry and craftsmanship.

To go further into the word of sustainable, social and environmental responsibility, it is important to look for alternatives, as fashion is the second most polluting sector”.

Dali Azores is a classic shoe model with a twist. The exterior in made with Portuguese cork and handcrafted weaving. The sole is made of natural rubber. With side laces, this model is enriched with handcrafted weaving by certified Azorean artisan Eduarda Vieira, made from cork and hand weaved with CORK-a-TEX, Sedacor's innovative cork and cotton yarn. t

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n INTERVIEW Guilherme Paixão The Research and Development Manager of Borgstena group is in the front line of one of the sectors which is most exposed to innovation: textiles car parts have upon them the pressure of huge world competition. The group, which was formerly Swedish and now is South-Korean, has been able to sustain an international position as one of the most valid players of the sector. The pandemic caught the group by surprise – as it did the entire world – but the response was fast in technological terms and efficient from the business rational point of view. To Guilherme Paixão research and development of new technologies and new textile proposals is, in company terms, a matter of survival

PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

"EVERYTHING FOR VOLVO NEEDS TO BE FROM RECYCLED MATERIALS"

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n a phase in which the pandemic star ted dic tating the r ules in a series of industries, the most for tunate ones risked diversification to the medical equipment produc tion. Borgstena did more than this: it created a new business and geared up with equipment that goes way beyond masks.

Mask production is your most recent investment . However, the business seems to be fleeing to southwestern Asia.

Our inv e s tme n t i n th e m edical ar e a ha p p e n e d b e c a us e w e re alized th at o u r o r d er s , i n a pande mi c s c e n a r i o , w er e dec r easing. W e wan t e d t o do s om e thing mo r e p r o a c ti v e i n s t ea d of cro ssin g o u r a r ms a n d w a i t i n g fo r e ver y t h i n g t o p as s . W h i c h w as the ma r ke t t h at h a d s om e ac tiv ity ? The me d i c a l eq ui p m en t o ne.

With highlight to masks?

We saw it was the segment through which we would be able to enter more quickly. We thought it would be a small window of inter vention but after all it is prov ing to be bigger: the pandemic is taking longer than expec ted. We have decided to invest mainly in masks – community and surgical ones. An investment of around 3,6 million euros was made, with Compete 2020, which funded 80%.

In the meantime competition arrives.

In the beginning we sold a lot. At the moment we are starting to realize that in all tenders what matters is price and stock availability – we thought business would boost with 80% State funding – and it’s not like that.

Should there be positive discrimination?

It shouldn’t be called like that, there should be self-sufficiency.

If we look at the financial par t only, we know that China can produce cheaper. However, when we needed masks there wasn’t enough quantity nor quality. The way out was for the European Union to have a degree of self-sufficiency, and there were such aids throughout the EU. This limit didn’t verify when bigger tenders star ted.

Were you surprised?

It is strange for us to have received this kind of help and then see that the winners in international tenders are price and stock availability. Several tenders were won by agents that don’t even own a fac tory but are mere Chinese masks importers which place them in the market at a much lower price than what we are able to produce. There must be some protectionism which should be referred to as self-sufficiency. It isn’t easy to recoup the investment.

Did Borgstena feel identical difficulties in other European countries?

Borgstena is originally Swedish but at present, after Dual’s purchase, it is South-Korean. Counting with Dual we have fac tories in Korea and China and some technical par tnerships in India and Malaysia, among others. Portugal is producing this type of materials only at a European level. The goal was always to have a new business area, taking advantage of an opportunity with future.

What is the best case scenario in these circumstances?

The best case scenario is that we have to increase our facilities – we already have space for it – we need to increase the purchase of machinery and aim to boost orders. This is the most appealing scenario. Then there is the possibility of maintaining what we already have.

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Volvo – it is something with several vec tors that need to be discriminated and marked out.

Every time we talk about sustainability with our clients we talk about natural and recycled materials and more and more recyclable final complexes. To some brands this may be referred to by 2050 but Volvo is always pioneer in this area and is already mov ing forward. Everything we are c urrently producing for Volvo must be made from recycled materials. The complex isn’t to tally recyclable yet but we have several projec ts on the move in order to reach that goal. All our clients say that sustainability stopped being an abstrac t concept to become something concrete that is more and more related to suppliers’ valorisation and classification – and we are working a lot in this area. We need solutions that distinguish us from other suppliers – which means innovation and design – and finally the ser v ice keeps being a must.

Nowadays we need to do things well, better than the others, and we need to be quicker. Quality, price, ser v ice.

How does all of this impact the company in Portugal, namely at the investment level?

In Portugal we have not only the big mass produc tion centre but also the development of new technologies – all new areas are developed here and then we either export or not to other units.

With what investment?

Namely in what concerns employment?

Namely in what concerns employment and its conditions.

In total the group was counting on reaching 600 million in 2021.

Is that scale maintained?

I t w i l l b e r e v ised in l ow . W e k eep D ua l ’s goa l of sel l in g m ill i on s b y 2 0 3 0 .

Why the bet in the United States?

It wasn’t correc tly our own strategy. In automotive there are more and more brand producers which, at a certain time, wanted to have global suppliers. That is why we went to Brazil, due to Scania. Volvo (from the Chinese Gealy, which still has Lotis, Lincon, Jaguar, among others) has decided to assemble a fac tory in the United States. Volvo represents 25% of our sales and has asked suppliers to accompany this evolution.

Future challenges?

The sustainability issue is present in all brands, and not only

We are talking about an intermediate level of investment, around 3 to 4 million euros a year.

Best case scenario do you predict the need for new investments in the short term?

W e h av e s e v e r a l t e c h n o l o g i e s i n w h i c h w e a r e go i n g t o b e t strongly – one of them is in production as we need to be able to produce piece by piece.

For now, we are talking about small series but we don’t know whether the future of this tec h n o l o g y w o n ’ t r e v e r t co m p l e tely to production – much more targeted and customised. For a small series, 20 thousand cars, t h e i nv e s t m e n t i s b e t w e e n f o u r and 5,5 million euros, depending on the type of machine we are about to buy. There is another area, embroidery (on top of automotive fabrics), in which we want to grow together with our suppliers. And the area of b i g vo l u m e s . To u s , i nv e s t m e n t has never been a problem – the p a y b a c k m u s t b e w i t h i n co r p o r at e r u l e s , a n d s o f a r t h e r e h a s a l w a y s b e e n av a i l a b i l i t y . t

the questions of João Gomes Chief Operations Officer CeNTI What relevance do you see in the targets defined by the European Technology Park, namely the textile and automotive sectors’ green targets?

We are working towards waste reuse, going back to circular economy. We were doing this even before legislation as we need to respect our clients’ own rules. To them the ecological footprint will already be a part of our supplier’s sheet. If it is not according to stipulated parameters, we may stop being suppliers. It is a problem but also an excellent opportunity.

What evolution do you predict for technologies and textile products aimed at automotive interiors, bearing in mind the advent of new interiors to autonomous vehicles?

The car will be a living room and comfort will be even more appreciated. The great future challenge will always be: with all the new technologies and different approaches will we be able to maintain all other technical specifications that are required for car interiors?

Fernando Cunha Executive Director Fibrenamics at Minho University How do you expect the revision of shared vehicle models will take the pandemic into account?

There will be the need to have many more cars – not all at the same time but they will wear out more quickly. In what fabrics are concerned the challenges are different: when the car is used by one person only there is the worry about cleaning, hygiene, friction; when the car is used by many people, fabrics must have “self-cleaning” and washability features or of not getting dirty.

What is the future bet, considering the new model created to answer the absence of protective equipment?

We have a project with Fibernamics in which we are creating what we call a multigrade mask: instead of several sheets only one complex is produced, which is the mask itself. It is a mask with a certain level of innovation which will bring comfort and different ergonomic and will be much easier to produce.

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BARCELOS CELEBRATES BARCELCOM'S 100TH BIRTHDAY

LUXURY CUSTOMER IS CHINESE AND IN EARLY TWENTIES The new consumer of luxury products on international markets is Chinese, in his early twenties, and spends at least seven thousand euros a year on this type of items.

In the coming years, those born after 1990 are expected to increase their consumption of luxury goods by up to 30%. The luxury market in China – which has been booming for a few years now – is undergoing a paradigm shift due to the rise of a new generation of consumers: buyers born between 1990 and 2000 account for 50% of the total luxury consumer base in the Asian country, and account for 46% of sales of this type of goods.

"To achieve excellence in sustainability and innovation we have to work as a group, we cannot do it alone" Susana Serrano Acatel CEO

CIRCULAR ECONOMY WILL GENERATE 600 BILLION OF REVENUE BY 2030 It was with a conference and an exhibition that showcased the company’s old documents and equipment that the municipality of Barcelos celebrated the centenary of Fábrica Barcelense, which was at the origin of Barcelcom. Gaspar Sousa Coutinho, the company's current general director, was one of the guest speakers.

To mark the occasion, the company specialized in technical textiles for health and spor ts came forward with a new logo and a strong statement : “We are not just 100 years old, we are liv ing them intensely”.

At the conference promoted by the municipality, the general director spoke about "Timelessness and management of a family business". After the conference, was time to inaugurate the exhibition (photo), which will run until the end of

January at the Municipal Library.

Founded in 1921, Fábrica Barcelense began its activity with the manufacture of lace and trimmings. In 1931, the company started manufacturing socks, and in 1935 the following investment was opening the dyeing section. Later, it was equipped for wool spinning and in 1960 started the manufacture of knits and garments.

Today, Barcelcom is positioned in technological and innovative articles, with emphasis on compression socks and sleeves, geared towards the health sector (postoperative treatment, for example), sports and physiotherapy (the recovery of muscle injuries). With presence in multiple markets – it has just entered Iraq -, Barcelcom's main objective is now to accelerate the internationalization process that was halted in 2020 by the pandemic. t

PORTUGUESE BRAND MAXI LEAF LAUNCHES ONLINE STORE Maxi Leaf is one of the most recent Portuguese brands to highlight the sustainable traits of its sleepwear and outwear products as a distinctive feature, and the company’s arrival on online sales is an invitation to show that side to the market. Influenced by nature and by the respect for its diversity, all the pieces named after fruits, flowers and trees.

Defining itself as a slow-fashion brand, Maxi Leaf’s items are 100% produced with high quality sustai-

nable materials, according to a statement from the brand. The quantities produced are also small and controlled, choosing quality over quantity, so that the customer can understand the history of each piece and appreciate every detail, knowing that it was made in a sustainable way, and respecting the environmental ethics.

The brand's labels are made of recyclable paper and parsley seeds that can be planted afterwards. In addition to selling clothes,

Maxi Leaf’s founders want to contribute to a better, fairer and more sustainable world. For this reason, the brand seeks balance and unification of the direct relationship between humans and nature, valuing purity, freshness, lightness and the environment. Its commitment extends to an excellent, efficient and pleasant service.

Maxi Leaf’s products, for adults and children from age 3 to 12 years old, are exclusively available on the brand’s online platform.t

According to an Ellen MacArthur Foundation study, circular business models have the potential to increase the fashion industry’s revenue, while reducing the production of clothing and accessories. All in all, areas such as second-hand rental and sales could generate more than 600 billion euros in revenue by 2030. The study, called Circular Business Models, states that circular business models offer a very significant potential for increasing revenue, while reducing the volume of clothing and accessories production.

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billion euros was the value of the European Union's textile and clothing exports

MARTA ORTEGA REPLACES PABLO ISLA IN THE LEADERSHIP OF INDITEX

The Galician group Inditex has just reorganized its management structure, and has once again placed an Ortega in the lead. This time it is Marta Ortega, the founder's daughter (both in the image), who replaces Pablo Isla, the top manager of recent years, considered the father of the group's modernization, and considered one of the best managers in Spain.

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2. "IT IS AN EXAMPLE OF RADICAL INNOVATION”, DESCRIBED BERNARDINO CARNEIRO, FROM RIOPELE, A COMPANY THAT LED THE CONSORTIUM THROUGHOUT THREE AND A HALF YEARS

PHOTOSYNTHESIS Por: António Moreira Gonçalves

1. CITEVE’S MANAGING DIRECTOR, ANTÓNIO BRÁS COSTA, ASSUMED THE ROLE OF TV HOST AND CONDUCTED THE PRESENTATION OF RESULTS, LIVE STREAMED

A DISPLAY OF THE TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY'S FUTURE It was the biggest and most ambitious textile innovation project in the textile trade fair. Throughout three and a half years TexBoost gathered 28 companies and 15 research centres in a combined and structuring effort to develop new products, materials and manufacturing processes. It was the biggest and most ambitious textile innovation project ever in the textile trade fair, with the objective of reaffirming the position of the Portuguese Industry in the forefront of innovation, sustainability, digitalization and 4.0 industry. The results were made public in a unique session conducted by CITEVE's team in which more than 70 new solutions were presented: a true display of the future, which goes through the several sectors of the textile industry and which promises to bring to Portugal exports amounting to 100 million euros

7. TEXTILE STRUCTURES FOR AGRICULTURE IN EXTREME ENVIRONMENTS WERE ALSO DEVELOPED. GILDA SANTOS (CITEVE) GIVES THE EXAMPLE OF A SUIT FOR THE HARVEST OF THE PRICKLY PEAR

6. THE WOOLLEN CLUSTER WAS ALSO PRESENT WITH BENIKDE REIS (UBI) PRESENTING A SERIES OF NEW MATERIALS DEVELOPED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH FITECOM

11. TEXTILE ALTERNATIVE TO CLOTHING BASED IN VEGETAL WASTE PRESENTED BY AUGUSTA SILVA (CITEVE)

10. IN HOME-TEXTILES, JOSÉ SILVA (CENTI) PRESENTED A MATTRESS PROTECTION WITH A HEATING / COOLING SYSTEM TO PROVIDE WELL-SLEPT NIGHTS ALL YEAR LONG

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4. THE PRESENTATION OF THIS NEW TEXTILE GENERATION STARTED ON WHEELS WITH THE DEMONSTRATION OF A SENSORISED OUTFIT ABLE TO REGISTER AND COMMUNICATE THE MOVEMENTS AND TRAINING INDICATORS OF TOP-LEVEL ATHLETES

5. CYCLING OR RUNNING AT NIGHT WILL BECOME SAFER WITH THE NEW GENERATION OF FIBRES AND TRIMMINGS RESPONSIVE TO LIGHT. RITA MARQUES (CITEVE) PRESENTED SOME OF THE PROTOTYPES

3. JOSÉ MORGADO, THE PROJECT’S TECHNICAL COORDINATOR, PRESENTED THE TEAM: 237 TECHNICIANS FROM 43 ENTITIES INVOLVED IN A 400 THOUSAND HOUR-JOINT WORK

9. JOÃO MENDES (A.SAMPAIO) HAS BROUGHT TO LIGHT NEW STRUCTURES IN KNIT MATERIALS GEARED WITH MULTI-RISK PROTECTION TARGETED TO SPECIALIZED MARKETS SUCH AS WORKWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR

8. IN THE AREA OF NEW TEXTILE STRUCTURES KEVIN RODRIGUES (CENTI) SHOWED SOME OF THE PROTOTYPES CREATED TO CUTTING-EDGE SECTORS SUCH AS THE AUTOMOTIVE ONE

13. CIRCULAR ECONOMY WAS THE CENTRAL THEME OF THE LAST GROUP OF INNOVATIONS PRESENTED. AMONG THEM THE NEW MATERIALS CREATED BY ERT FROM EVA AND LEATHER WASTE

12. RICARDO SILVA (CENTI) PRESENTED AN AUTOMOTIVE SEAT CAPABLE OF CAPTURING THE DRIVER’S BIOMETRICAL INDICATORS SUCH AS WEIGHT, BLOOD PRESSURE, TEMPERATURE AND BREATHING

14. TEXBOOST ORIGINATED A DISPLAY OF TANGIBLE EXAMPLES OF TEXTILE INNOVATION. MORE THAN 70 SOLUTIONS ARE IN EXHIBITION AT CITEVE’S ATRIUM

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SUSTAINABILITY IS PART OF SOURCETEXTILE'S DNA

+351 BETS ON ORGANIC COTTON The urgency in embracing the new organic world drove the Portuguese brand +351 to reinforce its commitment to organic cotton. Now, 90% of its products are 100% organic, a step towards sustainability that took shape with its latest collection, the New Organic World. As the brand underlines “organic methods support diversity and healthy ecosystems”, while “improving soil quality and generally using less water”.

60%

is the goal of JF Almeida for water reuse

MARKS & SPENCER AND HIRESTREET TOGETHER IN CLOTHING RENTAL

Its history only counts fifteen years, but the stories, successes and awards collected show an above-average business maturity.

Along the path of the history of SOURCETEXTILE, a private label brand for the upper-middle segment, we find, for example, the Circular Economy Award, won in 2019, the most prestigious certifications in the area of sustainability (OEKOTEX 100, STEP BY OEKOTEX AND GOTS), and the annual Sustainability Report on the company's website.

“We were born with this environmental responsibility well established. We are one of the few Portuguese companies that publicly presents its sustainability report, and shares profits with employees. We want to be, and we are, in fact, differentiating and sustainable”, states João Paulo Barbosa,

CEO of SOURCETEXTILE. It turns out that a good environmental basis and social responsibility are just one of the foundations of the company's global sustainability. With solid double-digit annual growth, this 100% exporting company – with special emphasis on the Nordic (Sweden and Denmark), French and German markets – was born in 2006 in a small factory with 280 square metres, and has grown to a 2200 square metres modern facilities, which are already becoming too small for SOURCETEXTILE’s current needs.

“In 2020, we grew above 15%. It was a great year for us”, reveals João Paulo Barbosa, who in the near future also intends to conquer the North American market, and reinforce its position in the production of technical textiles for fashion. t

The British group Marks & Spencer has launched a fashion line on the Hirestreet clothing rental platform, owned by Zoa – startups. The store chain has invested around half a million euros in the project, which will provide 40 pieces of women's clothing to fulfill the demand boom of these products during the Christmas season. This is Marks & Spencer's first test in clothing rental, and the pieces will be available at Hirestreet for 13 pounds (about 15.5 euros) for four days. The store price for these goes from 81 to 350 euros.

"Despite having suffered, the textile industry was very versatile in navigating this pandemic" António Rocha Co-fundador da Smartex

SKATEBOARD AND WORKWEAR IN SANJO'S NEW COLLECTIONS

PETRATEX PARTNERS WITH OVER 150 MAJOR BRANDS Specialized in the manufacture of all types of luxury and high-end clothing and thanks to its versatility, Petratex Confecções is today the strategic partner of more than 150 renowned brands.

The goal is to continue to innovate and make the company’s textile R&D department a world reference.

Characterized by quality and great versatility in multiple areas, from haute couture to high performance sporting goods, Petratex "is considered a leader in the internatio-

nal market, with patented techniques and endowed with great versatility", as explained in the latest edition of BOW, the magazine of AEP- Business Association of Portugal.

Having participated in unique projects such as the creation of Speedo's LZR Racer, the famous swimsuit that revolutionized swimming at the Beijing Olympics, Petratex is currently also “working on research projects to facilitate scientific expeditions to the Antarctic, as well as other pro-

jects in the health area”, informs the magazine in a two-page article dedicated to the company.

As a result of the strong investment in new communication technologies, processes, and in-house services of digital stamping, sublimation, laser, and others, BOW points to Petratex as one of the great examples in its Internationalization Radar, showing that the company is fully integrated in 4.0 Industry, and has its digitization area strongly consolidated.t

With a strong skateboarding culture, the Portuguese company Sanjo has just launched a new clothing collection, this time in collaboration with the skateboarding magazine Surge. The new proposals range from shorts to t-shirts, with imprints related to the art of skateboarding. There are also new shirts and zipper jackets, in shades of black, white, beige and dry green. ‘Timeless Resistance’ is also part of the Portuguese brand's new portfolio, a work wear collection that mixes the brand’s traits from the 50's with a sporty style.

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OPINION THE PANDEMIC IN THE TEACHING OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Luís Almeida University Professor of Textile Engineering in Minho University and ATP’s Board Member

ENERGY: ANYWHERE THE WIND BLOWS João Costa ATP’s Board Member and ASM’s president

T h e p a n d e m i c h a s s i g n i f i c at i v e l y a f f e ct e d a l l t h e e co no m y f o r o n e y e a r no w a n d t h e t e x t i l e i n d u s t r y i s no t a n e xc e p t i o n . T h e l i m i t at i o n s t o c i r c u l at i o n o f p e o p l e , t h e s a l e o f no n - e s s e n t i a l p r o ducts (as textiles are classified) and the strong impact in the hospitality sector l e d t o a s i g n i f i c at i v e r e d u c t i o n o f t e x t i le orders, mainly of clothing and home textiles (in this case a higher perman e n c e at h o m e h a s s l i g h t l y m i t i g at e d this reduction).

I would like t o approach a less spoken aspec t but that may also affec t our sec t or in the future : the limitations the pande mic imposed in the teaching of Textile Engineering. The strong restric tions t o presential learning have translated int o a significative reduc tion of lab classes and almost eliminated the possibility t o develop field trips. From March 2020 onwards we have witnessed a strong in centive t o the use of distance learning

The energetic crisis, coinciding with the pandemic relief has materialised in a sharp increase in natural gas and electricity price in the wholesale market, and is creating difficulties to companies with higher intensity in energetic use, such as Spinning, Weaving, Dyeing and Trimming. Since the beginning of Summer natural gas prices in the wholesale market – which in 2019/20 were around 15€/MWh and from January to April around 15-20€/ MWhn – started a price hike that culminated in 116€/MWh in the beginning of October (more than seven times higher than the average price in 2019/20), having, from that moment onwards, inverted the trend to values around 65-75€/ MWh in the beginning of November.

The trend is edging downwards for the rest of the year, in 2022, and the following years. The price of electricity showed a similar behaviour. From an average price of around 40-50€/MWh until April 2021 it reached a peak of 297€/MWh on the 7th October. It has been declining ever since but in the beginning of November it is still around 170€/MWh, although evidencing a declining trend to the rest of the year, to

t ools but the contac t with the prac tical reality may not be replaced efficiently by informatic means. It is more and more essential for an engineer t o be able t o dominate informatic t ools, whose utility is undeniable. However, the industrial produc tion is made from raw-materials, machines and, mostly, people in an in dustr ial atmosphere and not in front of a computer. For instance, CAD t ools ena ble the conception and v isualization of textile items. However, we can not get dressed with v ir tual clothes. We there fore hope that restric tions will end soon, and t hat prac tical classes and field trips may be reinstated in full.

To co n c l u d e , t h e r e a r e go o d n e w s : a c co r d i n g t o t h e G e n e r a l - D i r e c t i o n o f E d u c at i o n a n d S c i e n c e o n 2 0 1 5 -2 0 1 9 g r a d u at e s E m p l o y a b i l i t y d at a , T e x t i l e E n g i n e e r i n g i s o n e o f t h e f e w co u r s e s o f Minho University with an 100% employ a b i l i t y r at e . t

2022, and subsequent years.

The energetic transition that has been operating in Europe – and in which Portugal, by the Government’s political option intends to be champion – with guidelines so as to abandon coal plants and implement high C02 emission taxes (in which coal production, being the one that issues the most, is the most penalized) left electricity production very dependent on renewable sources, namely wind power, and made non-renewable productions too expensive.

Portugal has great installed wind power capacity of around 5.500 MW, which is good when it is windy because variable production costs are null, but, due to its volatility and intermittence the existence of backup centrals to guarantee production when wind fails becomes necessary.

As there was little wind over the past months wind energy was very reduced (sometimes less than 20% of the production in normal months), which obliged the intensification of production with natural gas, thus increasing its consumption.

Sines coal-plant, with 1.256 MW power, was shut down on the 15th January

2021 and Pego plant, with 628 MW, was to be closed on the 30th November 2021.

From the 1st November 2021 onwards, Argelia closed the Magrebe/Europe gas line which goes through Morocco and was operating since the 1st November 1996.

It exported around 10.000 million m3 of natural gas per year to Spain and Portugal.

The supply is intended to be compensated through another gas line (that doesn’t go through Morocco) that exists since 2011.

However, this one is operating in its full capacity of 8.000 million m3 per year. The increase in exports of liquefied natural gas by sea may determine an increase in price.

However, the additional cost of electricity production in special regime has converted into a gain, which alongside other factors will enable a reduction in the high network access fees. The reduction presented to the Government by ERSE is from 94% to MAT, AT and MT and will be enforced from the 1st January 2022 onwards.

As network access fees represent, in MT, around 40% of the invoice (with normal electricity prices), this will have a reduction of around 37% of its value, which will enable the reduction of company costs. t

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