TI 17 - June 2022

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ANA VAZ PINHEIRO, ADMINISTRATOR AT MUNDOTÊXTIL

“ENERGETIC COSTS ARE A NIGHTMARE” P 8&9

FOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

DIRETOR: MANUEL SERRÃO MENSAL | ASSINATURA ANUAL: 30 EUROS

OPINION

MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO ABOUT ENERGETIC PROBLEMS

N U M B E R 1 7 J U N E 2 02 2

INNOVATION

GARMENT DYED IS THE ORFAMA'S GREATEST ASSET P3

P 15

TRADE SHOWS

PORTUGUESE COMPANIES AWARDED AT ISPO

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

INDUSTRY

THE RETURN OF MODTISSIMO TO EXPONOR

CARJOR GROWS 15% AND REACHES HISTORIC RESULTS

P 12 & 13

P4

P6

SUSTAINABILITY

RDD PRESENTS NEW FIBRE FROM ORANGE SCRAPS P 10

COMPANIES

I N T E R N AT I O N A L DIRETOR: MANUEL SERRÃO

TINTEX GIVES WASTE A NEW LIFE P 14

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n EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão

THE VAZ PINHEIRO FAMILY

GARMENT DYED IS ONE OF ORFAMA’S GREATEST ASSETS

The ability to customize and respond to the customer’s requests, together with the proximity and extreme quality of the products, are Orfama’s greatest assets, which is investing in this triptych of added value to stand out from the competition. Working intelligently and valuing added value is the golden rule of the clothing company, which currently divides its operation into two distinct areas: its own brand and private label.

To feed this exclusivity strategy, the company works only with

100% organic yarns, organic wool and with differentiated treatments, such as Garment Dyed, a dyeing technique that gives the final piece a touch similar to cashmere, which seduces customers for its softness and comfort.

“In addition to being soft, this technique allows for great customization because it basically consists of knitting the piece raw and then dyeing it.

This allows the customer to choose in detail the colour they want, not being limited to a pre-establish colour palette”,

explains António Cunha, Area Sales Manager at Orfama.

Another highlight is the use of the 70 euros a kilo organic cotton, which costs three times more than 100% wool. “This is only for customers who are willing to pay for an exclusive product, who value exclusivity.

This is type of customer that we favour. In addition, a close relationship is formed between Orfama and the customer, who knows that only here they obtain this type of item”, reveals the company’s Sales manager. t

I know José Pinheiro from Mundotextil, who honours me with his friendship, since Portex times. We did one of T newspaper’s first covers in an interview with him. Back then, around 5 years ago, he told us he only passed by the company for brief moments as it was his daughters who managed Mundotextil’s businesses.

The time has now come for us to do our cover with his daughter Ana. The first certainty with which I left Mundotextil this time is that my friend José Pinheiro can go and play golf relaxed. The second certainty is that he must feel great pride in the succession he has promoted.

Being able to innovate processes and mindsets, in constant adaptation to new times and the meteoric evolution of world markets, without opting for prejudiced cuts, alongside the companies’ historic past, is a recipe which has provided desirable fruits.

We witness that with Ana Vaz Pinheiro when she reveals that Mundotextil has had a stunning growth in income in 2021, reaching 55 million euros. First with the father and now with the daughters, the Vaz Pinheiro family does what is needed. t

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Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal NIF: 501070745 Editor: Mário Jorge Machado Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-03164 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: tdetextil@atp.pt Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: cl.tdetextil@gmail.com ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http:// tjornalinternational.com/editorial-statute/

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PORTUGUESE TEXTILE ON THE BASIS OF THE UN SUSTAINABILITY AWARD It’s based on the production of Portuguese companies such as Valérius Group and Crispim Abreu that the House of Baukjen brand has been acknowledged as a leader in sustainable fashion, having been awarded the Climatic Neutrality Now award by the United Nations. It is the first time that this global award is given to a fashion company.The London-based House of Baukjen sustainability program is led by Portuguese Ana Carneiro, and more than 80% of all the brand’s clothes are produced in Portugal.

"We are global, we are present on three continents and we import from all over the world" Ricardo Almeida Givachoice Administrator

KATE WEARS BLOUSE MADE BY PEDROSA

The Duchess of Cambridge was photographed these days wearing a red blazer and a white top, the latter created by the portuguese company Pedrosa & Rodrigues. Proud, the manufacturer shared the look on social media, noting that “the body of the vest was cut in soft and stretchy jersey, and also features a chic V-shaped ruffle”. The piece was produced for the luxury brand ME+EM, and the pictures make us proud. After all, it’s not every day that one of the royals wears the made in Portugal label. t

CARJOR GROWS ABOVE 15% AND REACHES HISTORIC RESULTS Despite the difficulties and constraints that affected the sector, in 2021 Carjor textile registered its second-best result ever, growing above 15%. “It’s a great achievement, especially because we’ve been reducing staff and costs, and we still keep growing. It’s all about efficiency gains”, explains CEO Honorato de Sousa.

Created in 1969, and always devoted tochildren outwear manufacturing, Carjor is a family company exporting 100% of its production, and has made a decisive and consistent bet on stabilization on productive improvement.

Honorato Sousa, is a production engineer and is the second generation at the head of the company, is proud to explain that he is not concerned with prices, competition, producing more or winning new customers.

“The goals are set. We work with solid customers in the long and medium term, and our goal is to produce more efficiently, that is, making the most of time and of our installed

capacity. We don’t want to produce more, we want to be more efficient”, he reinforces.

With a growth only surpassed in 2016, and a turnover close to three million euros, 2021 is the company’s second-best year ever. “On our scale, it’s a huge achievement. However, it has been a very difficult to achieve due to the increase in production costs, especially gas, energy, transport and raw materials”, explains the CEO. These results that can be explained by the growth of some of its main customers, in France and Italy. “We’ve never had so much demand. They are big brands, with a strong technological component, and that have grown a lot online while keeping their entire traditional business”, explains Honorato de Sousa.

A feat that also encompasses the pursuit of circularity and sustainability goals: Carjor manages to produce the same quantity with fewer resources, less waste and less consumption. t

PORTUGAL INCREASES EXPORTS TO THE UNITED KINGDOM The latest trade data (January-September 2021) shows a sharp drop in textile imports and exports between the European Union and the United Kingdom, but Portugal contradicts that trend and increased exports to the UK,

in comparison with the same period in 2020.

In the first nine months of 2021, and compared to the same period in 2020, the EU recorded a drop of 44% (almost two billion euros) in imports and of 22% (about 1.6 billion)

in exports. However, in Portugal the trend is the opposite: in the period in question, textiles and clothing sent to the United Kingdom reached 292 million euros, an increase of about 7% compared to the same period in 2020. t

MODATEX IN PROJECT FOR GENDER EQUALITY

MANGO MORE THAN DOUBLES MANUFACTURERS IN PORTUGAL

Modatex is participating in the IgualPro project, under the responsibility of the Commission for Equality at Work, which seeks to promote gender equality in the access to professions. Through this participation, the training centre wants to show that the textile industry is not exclusively for women or men, but rather to all who are interested in clothing and fashion.

As a result of its production proximity policy, Mango significantly strengthened its supply chain in Portugal and Spain throughout 2021. The 19 manufacturers in our country in 2019 increased to 57 by the end of last year. Toni Ruiz, Mango’s CEO, says that this process will intensify throughout 2022 as a way to react to the turmoil in the supply of raw materials and in transport circuits.

44%

was Mundotêxtil's sales growth in 2021

FOR MILAGRUS, SUSTAINABILITY IS MORE THAN A PASSING TREND For the fashion brand Milagrus, sustainability is much more than a buzzword. It is serious business, and it goes from materials to human resources and even to the business model – in limited quantities so that there is no production surplus.“The materials are of plant origin. That is, they are made from tree pulp. The outer part of the tree is removed and made into a pulp, and from there the fibre is removed”, explains Vanda Eugénio, the brand’s designer. A fibre then made into a fabric that, guarantees the designer, in addition to being much more ecological, is also much more fluid and comfortable.

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Anuncio T Internacional 235x295(241x301)cm ER 2021 quarta-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2021 10:30:58

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TAJISERVI PRESENTS NEWS IN THE ON-DEMAND SEGMENT Bringing innovation to the textile industry for over 27 years, Tajiservi has just presented the most current innovations for sustainable on-demand textile production, with the most advanced solutions on the market for digital textile printing, embroidery and consumables for textile embellishment. “At a time when the textile production paradigm is changing from large productions to small productions or even unique pieces, production and customization must be fast and hassle-free.

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"Inovafil supports its customers in the development of customized projects" Pedro Martins Inovafil Export Manager

FARFETCH SUPPORTS YOUNG WOMEN WITH MENTORING PROGRAM The online luxury fashion platform Farfetch has just announced a new edition of the Plug-in Mentoring For Girls program, which gives opportunities for young women with higher education. The goal is to offer expert advice and support from professionals in the areas of technology, engineering and mathematics. Farfetch will welcome 10 candidates to join the mentoring program, scheduled to start on April 8. “Throughout the program [the young women] will have access to formal quarterly sessions, with coaching and access to different areas, will have the opportunity to apply the knowledge gathered, and exchange experiences and opportunities related to their professional path”, advances the platform in a statement.

CARVEMA, TINTEX AND COLOR FOR TEX AWARDED AT ISPO

Bloomati by Car vema, Color for Tex and Tintex are the three Por tuguese companies awarded in the Autumn-Winter 23/24 edition of ISPO Munich Textrends For um. The largest internatio nal fair for sports textiles highlights the three companies’ produc ts for their performance, technology and sustainability, and will be included in the Trendbook guide.

With four knits awarded, Bloomati by Car vema stands out. “Last year we had one mesh awarded, this year ther e w e r e f o u r. W e a r e v e r y h a p p y a n d c e r t a i n o f o u r p at h ” , reveals Alice Sampaio, responsible for the brand’s

marketing, who saw a mesh made of modal and elastane d i s t i n g u i s h e d i n t h e To p 1 0 B a s e L a y e r c at e go r y , w i t h a f i n i s h t h at i m p r o v e s e l a s t i city by 20%. A mesh in recycled polyester and elastane, with an antibacterial finish, was also highlighted.

In addition to the knits a w a rde d in the To p10 Base La ye r cate go ry, fo r spo r ts us e , Blo o mati is also o n the S e le c tio n list o f the Base Laye r c ate go ry, with a re cycle d po lye s te r and o rganic co tt o n rib with a te mpe rature - re gulating finish. It was also s e le c te d in the Pe rfo rmance F inis he s cate go ry with a po lya mide e lastane fibre , with a ntiba c te rial finish.

Tintex, on the other hand, was distinguished in the To p 5 P e r f o r m a n c e F i n i s h e s c at e go r y w i t h a s p o r t s p i q u é f a b r i c t h at c a n b e u s e d b o t h by the sportswear market, as well as the luxury loungew e a r. D r a p e d i n a n o r g a n i c co t t o n k n i t , t h i s p i q u é a l s o f e at u r e s a f u n c t i o n a l f i n i s h t h at f i g h t s o d o u r s c a u s e d b y b a c t e r i a , s w e at o r e nv i r o n mental sources.

The Por tuguese textiles were also distinguished with a print by Color for Tex, a fabric made of cotton and polyester with zero percent water waste - and which is now par t of the Top10 Innovation category. t

PETRATEX BETS ON COMPRESSION SPORTS LINE An athleisure compression collection is Petratex’s latest bet. The goal is to go even further in the field of sustainability and innovation, without forgetting technical and functional features. The Bonded Compressive capsule encompasses twelve pieces made from recycled materials.

The compression feature appears on leggings and sports bras, with the aim of providing “greater support, especially during more intense workouts. The shaping fabric stylizes the silhouette without restricting movements”, states the company. One of the leggings models has an elastic band around the waist, designed for a more slimming effect.

The company also highlights that this is an environmentally friendly collection, made from recycled material. The techno-fabric used is called Vita and is made from regenerated Nylon – ECONYL. “It is versatile, hyper-resistant, thin, elegant, elastic, soft, and breathable”, underlines Petratex.

The new outfits also have a reflective effect, resulting from the application of a reflective film into the fabric itself, a feature that brings more “safety to the user on busy or dimly lit streets”, they also emphasize. t

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n INTERVIEW Ana Vaz Pinheiro 41 years old, administrator and commercial director at Mundotêxtil, where she has worked since 2011.

She has a Degree in Law by the University of Coimbra and had a Law Office in Vizela before moving to the company led by her father. She says she “had no idea how the company worked as family life had always been separated from the progress of the company”, a detail which seems to have helped in the leadership she shares with her father and her sister.

PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

"ENERGETIC COSTS ARE A NIGHTMARE"

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nnovation and differentiated product are key to maintaining Mundotêxtil’s success. 2021 meant the return in force to business after 2 years profoundly marked by the pandemic. However, and against all odds, the current year will be particularly difficult as a result of the increase of production costs alongside inflation, a poisoned gift.

How did business go in 2021?

It was an incredible year: we reached an income of 55 million euros, representing approximately 44% of growth when compared to the previous year.

Mundotêxtil’s exports represent 98% of our income and 25% of the volume of Portuguese Felt Exports. That’s the reason why it was a good year.

How do you explain these numbers which, you may agree or not, are surprising?

They aren’t surprising because they are the result of hard work. There was an increase in the demand for the type of product we manufacture – highly due to the pandemic and the fact that people were more at home, which led to a change in the type of consumption.

Only major brands or the ones which had digital tools developed and a good distribution network managed to increase sales in 2020 and take off in 2021.

Do you think 2022 will be the downside, as consumption may return to fashion and clothing?

2022 will bring a combination of factors. It won’t be an easy year at any levels. However, I hope there isn’t a sharp decline in consumption. There will probably be some stagnation, also related to the inflation and production costs which are completely out of control.

Which were your best markets?

Around 70% of our products are exported to Europe. In Europe our clients are in France, United Kingdom and in the traditional Spanish market.

Spain hasn’t been a good market for some products.

It has been a good one for us. It is a stable, mature market and our customer portfolio has been loyal for many years.

Denmark and Sweden increased a lot.

Outside Europe we highlight Israel which started to become an important market for us in 2019. They decreased purchases in 2020 but increased again in 2021. In Asia Japan, Hong Kong and Taiwan are very good markets. In Asia more than 50% of Portuguese felt exports are from Mundotêxtil.

Doesn’t North America attract you?

Yes, it does, as well as Mexico where we have some sales. Latin America, on the other hand, is completely stagnated.

After Europe the United States are the biggest market we have.

Which of these markets reserves the biggest growing ability?

The United States, of course. It is a market that knows the Portuguese product very well and that absorbs it very well.

At least in our area it is considered a quality product. It is a huge market with a high purchasing power. When there are price increases they are the first ones to accept them – and the ones who don’t fear passing this increase to the final customer. In Europe there is a bigger reluctance of doing this transfer.

Which other export markets can become a priority?

Mundotêxtil exports to 46 countries.

There isn’t much margin for expansion.

We can eventually increase our market share in some countries but we have a comfortable position in most ones.

What is the dimension of Mundotêxtil’s installed capacity? Are there buyers from other companies?

Mundotêxtil is made up of 596 people.

We have a logistic distribution centre 5km away from our factory and we have several participated companies abroad – Germany, Spain, United States an Mozambique – cotton farming and yarn production.

Is it the company related to the programme Cotton made in Africa?

Exactly, MCM (Mozambique Cotton Manufactories) is a partnership with Crispim Abreu which already employs 300 people. It is located a 20-minute drive away from Maputo in former Riopele’s facilities which were disabled after the 25th April.

Is the number of Mundotêxtil’s staff stabilized?

In 2021 it grew to 40-50 workers after decreasing in 2019 and having remained stable in 2020.

In 2018 you invested 18 million euros. What is your investment policy?

The year of 2018 was the last one in which we made a great investment in terms of machinery. From 2018 to 2021 we invested over 12 million euros and we are now concluding a project of more than 2,5 million – investing in modernization. The machines have a long life-span but there are technological challenges that we must keep up with.

We are concluding an investment in yarn dyeing and in changing the factory layout. The pandemic also helped to look inside and understand where we could increase efficiency and productivity.

2022 represents the return to presential fairs. Is it important for Mundotêxtil?

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It is. Even for our commercial and product development teams it is essential to contact with clients. This doesn´t mean contact hasn’t been established – as we export for 46 countries we can’t go everywhere every year. We have created contact tools to tackle the lack of physical contact. However, we don’t feel the markets through the internet, we don’t understand what people wear or what they want if we aren’t in the places.

How did you observe the way in which the Portuguese Textile Sector has responded to the pandemic?

One of the things that characterizes us as people, as a country, is the ability to adapt and textile accompanies that capacity. We must bear in mind that companies need to have foundations: a confusing transition will not bear fruit. Solid, capitalized companies with a strong technological component that value labour force have responded. These companies have managed to adapt more easily.

How about the way the government found to help companies, what comment would you like to make?

We are lucky as more than half of our income comes from permanent programmes on an annual or biannual base – so we knew we would have production. The government responded as it could. The payment of the lay-off was very important – mainly in the textile the treasury needs to be long: 9 months may go from the purchase of the raw material until the invoicing. I have no bad remarks to do.

Is the RRP (Recovery and Resilience Plan) a lost opportunity?

It is a unique opportunity. I understand it is important to channel funds to structural reforms that the State needs to do. But in order to have better salaries and reduce unemployment one needs to strengthen companies. If one loses the current opportunity for digitalization, decarburization, resilience of social issues in a conjugated strategy between the public and the private one will lose the unique opportunity to leverage the country.

In which way are the increase in the cost of raw materials, transports and energies impacting Mundotêxtil?

It is a great impact. The current energy cost is a nightmare – the price of gas increased more than 300%. Cotton is at historically high levels – there are lots of people earning money in the commodities market.

Which is more important: the label “made in Portugal” or “made in Europe”?

I believe “made in Portugal” is very important nowadays. It prevails over “made in Europe”, at least in this type of product. Probably it is different in clothing. t

the questions of Raul Fangueiro Director of the Science and Textile Technology Centre of Minho University What is the importance of the relation with the R&D centres, namely with UM, in the development of Mundotêxtil?

Partnerships are the most efficient way for a company to adapt to changes and propel innovation.

The support of partners that share the same strategic vision and are pioneers in their performance areas is essential. The University of Minho is, without any doubt, a strategic partner of Mundotêxtil which has contributed greatly to the culture of innovation we have been developing and fostering.

What is the future strategy of Mundotêxtil considering the binomial innovation and sustainability?

Sustainability and innovation go hand in hand. It is impossible to accelerate the rhythm of change and transform the current business model making it circular without including innovation in this equation.

João Abreu General Manager at Crispim Abreu Facing the increase in production costs do Portuguese textiles, and specifically home-textiles, face the risk of losing competitiveness?

It is crucial to draw plans to minimize the expectable negative impact. It may involve an acceleration of the energetic transition, the optimization of productive processes, the increase of productivity and efficiency and, of course, an increase of the sale price.

In what ways have the well-being and the appreciation of human resources reflected in Mundotêxtil’s performance?

Our compromise has long been centred on those who are a part of us. Fostering the growth of our teams and promoting a healthy environment are a priority in our day-to-day, which is obviously reflected in the connection the teams have among themselves and the company.

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SOEIRO WITH HANDS FULL OF ORDERS

EURATEX REQUIRES EU INTERVENTION IN ENERGY PRICES The energy crisis that began at the end of last year has been getting worse: energy, gas and oil prices have soared, and Euratex draws attention to the fact that companies are at risk of interrupting production.

An intervention in prices is urgently needed. European gas prices at the Dutch TTF hub rose by 330% last year, “the textile and clothing industry faces an unprecedented situation, with many companies considering closing production because of energy costs”, says the condeferation.

"The product has to be increasingly sustainable in all aspects" Paulo Melo Somelos President

ZEITREEL REACHED 345 MILLION EURO IN 2021

If there were still doubts about the pro duc tion returning to Europe, and the advantages for the Por tuguese textile and clothing industry, Soeiro is here to prove that the change is already underway. The company has no doubt that the demand it felt in recent months is motivated not only by proximity, but also by the quality of Made In Europe.

A demand that has grown so much that the only concern the company has is finding seamstresses to carry out the orders. “We have a lot of orders, and a lot of diffic ulty in finding people to work, especially seamstresses. I think the training offer should be streng thened in this craft so that we can get around the problem, c ustomers are in fac t returning to Europe, and it is a type of c ustomer that does not mind paying for quality of the produc t, as is the case of Switzerland and Holland”, explains Cristina Basaloco.

“They arrive here and immediately ask: is the produc tion Por tuguese? And the raw materials? And the cotton? They want everything Made In Por tugal!”, says the head of the clothing company that c urrently employs 100 workers, and works 100% for expor t.

France, Holland, England, Belgium, Switzerland and Germany are some of Soeiro’s markets, which works exclusively on a private-label basis. “Occasionally, we also make some partnerships, that is, instead of us presenting a model, the customer presents the design of a product they want to make, and we do it”, explains Cristina, who also adds that Soeiro’s sustainable offer, attested by OEKO -TEX certifications is very successful amongst customers. So much so that in recent years, in the midst of a pandemic, the company has never stopped growing.t

The Portuguese company Zeitreel reached a total turnover of 345 million euros in 2021, slightly above 2020.

These results had a particularly positive contribution from the international B2B businesses. In a statement, Sonae group adds that the fashion business has shown “relevant progresses in all brands: Salsa has developed several corner stores with leading multi-brand partners; MO has a new international managing partner; and Zippy and Losan benefited from a joint wholesale approach of both brands”.

42 million were the Impetus group sales in 2021

RDD PRESENTS NEW FIBRE FROM ORANGE SCRAPS

CRISTINA BARROS GROWS 20%

BY THE END OF 2021 Cristina Barros brand increased it’s turnover by 20% in 2021, compared to the values recorded in 2020. Between 2019 and 2020, the company increased around 30%, in counter-cycle with the trend felt by the textile industry during the pandemic crisis. As a reason for the success, Marco Costa, the company’s commercial director, points out the consistency of Cristina Barros, who never stopped working, and presented herself as a reliable

and dependable solution for her customers.

“We never stopped working, and with that we were able to convey great security to our customers. They knew they could count on orders delivered on time, which in a time of instability is a great asset. And with the guarantee of our quality”, explains Marco Costa.

A success largely leveraged by the rising transport costs, which brought many

customers back from Asian markets to Europe. “With the outbreak of the pandemic, customers realized that they could not be dependent on raw materials and products coming from Asia”, explains the commercial director.

“What the customer wants now is proximity, which for Portugal is a great value. We can offer high quality Portuguese production with the advantage of being close", ”, says satisfied Marco Costa. t

RDD Textiles has just introduced a new fibre, the O/ Range Citrus Textiles by RDD, which results from the processing high quality cellulose, extracted from orange remains.Described as “soft, with a silky touch, light, and able to be used alone or mixed with other fibres”, the goal of this yarn is to, once again, reuse as much as possible the waste generated by the food industry. This is not the first novelty presented by the Valérius Group involving fruit. A few months ago, RDD Textiles also presented a natural dyeing process made from blueberries and other fruits and vegetables.

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2. THE LOOK AND STYLE OF MODTISSIMO 59 TEAM WERE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF MARJOMOTEX, WITH DENIM AS THE PROTAGONIST

PHOTOSYNTHESIS by: Bebiana Rocha & Cláudia Lopes

1. DURING THE TWO DAYS OF THE EVENT, AROUND 5 THOUSAND VISITORS, A NEW RECORD

6. FOR THE FIRST TIME AT MODTISSMO, JOSÉ PINTO CARDOSO, WITH ITS OWN BRAND PIERLORENZO. A WINNING BET, SAID COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR CARLOS COSTA

THE RETURN OF MODTISSIMO TO THE OLD HOUSE Back at Exponor pavilions, MODTISSIMO exceeded the best expectations and left everyone satisfied: the exhibitors, who returned to the atmosphere of large international fairs; visitors, who appreciated the extended space and the convenience of having all the stands of the different areas in the same space.

And the organization – happy to please everyone – could not be more satisfied with the return to Exponor. And top of the tops was the new visitor record and the return of US buyers. And also from Russia, who would imagine… This was MODTISSIMO 59, which will be back in the same space on the 6th and 7th of September

5. SUSTAINABILITY, COMBINED WITH INNOVATION, WAS ONCE AGAIN IN FOCUS AT ITECHSTYLE CITEVE SHOWCASE

10. TMG BET ON PASTEL COLORS AND SOFT AND SMOOTH FABRICS TO ATTRACT BUYERS

9. KNOWN FOR THE QUALITY OF ITS FABRICS, RIOPELE ALSO CAUGHT THE ATTENTION OF DESIGNER KATTY XIOMARA

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4. VERY BUSY WAS ALSO CARLOS ARAÚJO, FABRIC SALES MANAGER AT ADALBERTO, SHOWING THE NEW LINE OF FABRICS WITH THERAPEUTIC AROMAS AND NEW SUSTAINABLE FIBERS

3. AT ITALPOR STAND, THERE WAS NO STOPPING FOR THE TWO DAYS, WITH THE STAFF HAVING TO UNFOLD TO SERVE SO MANY BUYERS

8. LMA PRESENTED AT MODTISSIMO A SET OF ECO-FRIENDLY KNITS WITH APPLIABLE TO SPORTS

7. AND THE ACTION AT ALEC GROUP STAND (ALEC, GBTX, GABRITEX AND IRIS) LEFT NO DOUBTS ABOUT THE VITALITY OF THE NATIONAL TEXTILE

12. ... SUCH AS THE SUSTAINABLE FASHION FROM PORTUGAL PROJECT WHICH EXHIBITED A SHOWCASE, COMPOSED OF TEN 100% SUSTAINABLE COORDINATES

11. ONE OF THE BIG NEWS OF EDITION 59 WAS THE PRESENTATION OF THE GREEN WAVE MAGAZINE FROM PORTUGAL, AN ATP INITIATIVE

13. PROUD OF YET ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL EDITION, THE MODTISSIMO TEAM IS BACK TO EXHIBITION IN SEPTEMBER

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CAIMA INVESTS 40 MILLION TO REACH CARBON NEUTRALITY Caima, a producer of cellulosic fibres for the textile industry, is investing 40 million euros in the construction of a biomass boiler, which will allow the company to abandon fossil fuels throughout its production process.

This investment is the final step of the Caima Go Green project, which should be completed by the end of 2024.

In a statement, the biorefinery states that the goal of this investment is to “guarantee total energy autonomy exclusively from renewable sources".

1300

is the number of Salsa stores worldwide

TINTEX GIVES WASTE A NEW LIFE

Circularity is at the heart of the gift Tintex recently offered to Soalheiro. The Vila Nova de Cerveira company covered an armchair with a coating developed from the residues of the Alvarinho harvest from Quinta do Soalheiro, more specifically from the grape skin. The raw material thus returns to its origins, but with a new shape, as we can see in the image. t

ROQ GROUP GROWS 20% AND HIRES 100 MORE EMPLOYEES The ROQ Group, world leader in the manufacture of textile printing machines and equipment, closed 2021 “with a growth of around 20%, which proves its strong presence in the markets, and the company’s potential for growth”, according to an official statement. In the midst of the pandemic, in 2020, the company had already grown 9%, having now reached a turnover of more than 70 million euros.

This growth was accompanied by the reinforcement of human resources: “despite the difficulties caused by the pandemic”, 100 new employees were admitted. “The ROQ Group team has more than 50 engineers who are constantly developing product innovations, and seeking to respond to the markets demands. The company thus intends to add 100 new employees to the team, in operatio-

nal areas”, the statement added.

ROQ managed to overcome the obstacles imposed by the current pandemic and, being 2021 “a year of high demand”, it did not want to fail to highlight “the effort and dedication of all workers, since, through them, it was possible to reach the goal set for another challenging year”.

To turn this recognition into something tangible, the group has decided this year to offer health insurance to all employees, thus cementing the relationship between the employer and the company’s human resources.

Present in the market for over 38 years, the ROQ Group presents itself as one of the leaders in its market, competing internationally with the largest companies in the world, and exporting to more than 80 countries. t

LANIDOR INCLUDES ECOTEC YARN IN ITS KNITS On the way to sustainability, Lanidor started to incorporate Ecotec yarn – produced from textile waste, pre and post consumption clothing or plastic bottles – into its knits. A change that will allow the Portuguese brand to save almost half of the water used until now in the manufacture of its knits.

The yarn makes it possible to save “48% of water, 57% of energy, 43% of value and 38% of total resource consumption” in the production process, explains the brand on its official website. The company also notes that more than 50% of the knitwear sold is produced in Portugal.

Recently, the company has taken other measures toward a more sustainable path, starting with the use of solar energy in the production process.

The energy is produced in the company’s industrial park, thanks to 650 solar panels installed in 2021, which save “more than 80 tons of CO2 per year”. t

LION OF PORCHES WANTS TO GROW IN SPAIN To double the network of stores in the Spanish market in the next two years is the most recent bet of the Portuguese brand Cães de Pedra Group, owner of the Lion of Porches brand. With around 100 multi-brand points of sale and seven corners in El Corte Inglés, the goal is to make Spain responsible for 20% of the brand’s turnover, and surpass Portugal as its first market. “Our focus is set on the multi-brand stores, that's where we want to double our presence”, explains Nuno Azevedo, director of international markets, in statements to the Spanish edition of Fashion Network.

"Europe should apply a sustainability tax on textile imports" Mário Jorge Machdo ATP's President

LATITID CELEBRATES 10TH BIRTHDAY WITH 'THE ICONICS' COLLECTION

The most iconic models in the history of Latitid are now reinvented in the 'The Iconics' collection, which marks the tenth anniversary of the Portuguese swimwear brand. The new capsule is made up of ten models that mix bikinis and bathing suits, each with variations in colour and print. “It's a mix of bestsellers and important pieces for the brand and for each of the collections”, says Inês Fonseca, co-founder of Latitid. The novelty is the Iconic 10, which is part of the summer 2022 collection, and whose main reference is the French Riviera.

For the first time, Latitid allows its customers to choose different sizes of bottom and top, in selected models.

June 2022

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OPINION A WAR WAS NEEDED FOR US TO DISCUSS ENERGY’S REAL ISSUES Mário Jorge Machado President of ATP

THE NEW WORLD (DIS)ORDER Paulo Vaz AEP’s Administrator and ATP’s Consultant

ATP has been the voice we hear the most in the fight for the defence of companies’ interests regarding the energetic crisis we have been going through.

We witnessed the start of this critical situation in the end of last year when the prices of electric energy and mainly natural gas went up.

From that moment onwards we have strengthened our contacts with the government, raising awareness to the difficulties of the sector and the consequences of this situation but mainly appealing to the need to take urgent and efficient measures to support companies.

At that point we only managed to get a reduction in the access fee to electric energy and the possibility for cogeneration to sell energy to the electricity network at market prices. Slight measures, considering the severity of the problem.

Apparently, there was nothing the government could do regarding the natural gas issue, whose prices increased 600%. “It’s the rules of the international market, there is nothing we can do”, said the politicians in charge.

We need direct support to companies that either don’t want to or can’t go into debt any longer. We need a more flexible lay-off, the simplified lay-off, that may respond to the current needs of companies, which are actually stopping production due to the great increase of the price of gas and the impossibility of reflecting this increase in the clients. We can’t forget we are acting in a highly competitive and globalized market, meaning that international clients, who always seek the cheapest price, can easily find supply alternatives in other geographies.

Even though rules are defined in the international market, we know there are countries in which

We are currently living times of profound paradigm transformation. Everything changed two years ago with the COVID19 pandemic and now things are changing again with Russia’s invasion to Ukraine, bringing war to Europe once more and raising the spectrum of a nuclear conflict.

All of the above is having a profound impact in the international order, until now founded on the globalization process. Thanks to it we have benefited from a long period of great freedom in the circulation of people, capital and goods. We have democratized access to a great number of goods and services and controlled inflation, thus lifting hundreds of people in several parts of

energy is much cheaper than in Portugal. Some of them are our competitors and are benefitting from the deviation of orders that should have remained in Portugal.

In what regards direct support they tell us “only with Bruxelas approval”, regarding lay off, “there is a lay off in Labour Code that companies may use”.

Anyway, they are always very available but do little to defend the national economy!

Unfortunately, a war in Europe was needed for this issue to be debated again in Brussels (and because Portugal isn’t the only country affected), which ended up authorizing the member states to directly support companies, to discuss maximum prices to energy or the reformulation of price calculation, as well as the interconnection of supply systems to enable the talk concerning a unique market. It is difficult to understand that coal plants are closed when there are no guarantees for alternative supply. It is also difficult to understand how Portugal, one of the countries that has invested the most in renewable energies, still has the most expensive energy in Europe…

We can’t talk about the decarburization of the economy and industry without mentioning the companies’ competitiveness. If they want companies to invest in decarburization it is essential that there is a cost-benefit relation which promotes that investment!

For the companies which compete in the international market, as it is the case of the textile and clothing sector, sustainability will always be aligned with the improvement of its competitiveness.

You should not keep shooting yourself in the foot as long as this is not a real priority. t

the world out of misery. In contrast we have witnessed the exit of transformation activities, such as textile and clothing, from industrialised countries erasing these skills and know-how memory to transfer them to distant geographies, which we have become dangerously dependent on.

Everything changed suddenly but amongst general uncertainty something is certain: we will not go back to 2019 and so we have to adapt to the new challenges. In this new era it is not a catastrophe that the world’s epicentre is located exclusively in Asia / Pacific. The need for common defence and safety unites the United States and the European Union, creating a

new centrality in the North Atlantic and making room for the negotiation of a new agreement of free commerce and investment between the two biggest economic blocks in the world, dragging Latin America as well to finally ratify the agreement between European Union and Mercosul.

The innovative and competitive Portuguese Textile and Clothing industry has a great deal to gain with all this, as long as there is resilience and public policies targeted to precise and reproductive support, able to offer the possible way for the best to prevail and for the sector to survive, better and stronger. Today, as well as yesterday and certainly tomorrow. t

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