THE
MEN’S ISSUE
Glorious Undercuts Grooming Essentials
STRUT STYLE, TRENDS & RUNWAY UNDER TONI&GUY
TONIGUY.COM
UNDER CUTS by Ashley Berryhill
TONI&GUY Education Director, South Coast Plaza Academy and TONI&GUY Art Team Member
After patiently waiting to see men’s hairdressing change by leaps and bounds, we’ve come to one conclusion – it isn’t going to happen. The truth is that when it comes to men’s hairdressing the evolution is much slower than it is for its female counterpart; however, over the last couple of years we’ve seen a strong wave of influences from shows like “Boardwalk Empire” and “Mad Men” bringing back the extremely tailored look. This year puts a twist on these classics as more relaxed versions are starting to take root, creating hairstyles that are distinctly now. One thing that all of these hairstyles have in common is that they are all undercuts - glorious, glorious undercuts! Here is a guide to the many undercuts you will navigate this year and beyond. Don’t let this serve as the be-all-end-all of what you offer. Take some risks and have fun with it! SLICKED BACK UNDERCUT With one foot in the past and one foot in the present, this hairstyle pulls its influences from the 1920s Dust Bowl Era. It is defined by two requests: short underneath and long on top. This cut is best-suited for men with a good strong hairline. Its style can be made wearable for everyone from the conservative to the street savvy, simply by adjusting the amount of disconnection from top to bottom. Here we have two examples: styled slick to give it that old-school Americana vibe, and a longer, messier version that has an ‘80’s skater feel. These looks are not for the product shy and can require a bit of mirror time to perfect, or not perfect, depending on which direction you decide to take it.
SLICKED BACK UNDERCUT
TEXTURED COIF The textured coif is the most rugged of the undercuts featured here. It shares its roots with the slicked back undercut of the 1920s by keeping with the short sides/long top dichotomy; however, that is where the similarities end. This style is for men who appreciate conservatism but decide the amount of mirror-time dedication needed to style the slicked-back look is really just not for them. It’s inspired by designers whose influences bend strongly in the direction of the tried and true. Think Levi’s Vintage, Mr. Freedom or RRL. Men with wavy to curly textured hair will wear this look best, but don’t be afraid to offer your clients a body wave if their hair is too straight. MODERN CROP This modern military inspired cut is the most versatile of the undercuts shown here. We have been seeing different variations of this sporty look for years. Featured most recently on the runway for the newest Louis Vuitton collection, this look promises to be a crowd favorite. What makes the modern crop new is the skin-tight fade below, with little to no blending of the length on top. This enables a nearly endless amount of styling possibilities to suit most individuals. Depending on the look of the day there is little to moderate styling required. Want to learn more about updating your men’s cuts repertoire for your clients? Join Ashley and other TONI&GUY advanced educators for our 2-day Men’s Cuts class. Learn more at TONIGUY.COM under the “Advanced Education” section.
TEXTURED COIF
GET A BEHIND THE SCENES LOOK – YOUTUBE.COM/TONIGUY PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID EVANS, NATIONAL EDUCATION DIRECTOR
MODERN CROP
“This year puts a twist on these classics as more relaxed versions are starting to take root, creating hairstyles that are distinctly now.” – Ashley Berryhill SLICKED BACK UNDERCUT
– FASHION FINDS BY CAROLINE –
TEN STAPLES
THE MAN’S CLOSET By Caroline Mascolo
TONI&GUY Fashion Director
BUILDING A WARDROBE DOESN’T HAVE TO BE TRICKY IF YOU INVEST IN KEY PIECES WHICH WILL WORK WELL NOW AND LATER. INCORPORATING SIMPLE PIECES IN GENTLE COLOURS WILL FALL SEAMLESSLY INTO YOUR EXISTING WARDROBE, WHILE ACCESSORIZING WITH BRIGHTER COLORS CAN PERSONALIZE YOUR LOOK TO YOUR INDIVIDUAL STYLE. MAKE WISE CHOICES AND IT WILL GIVE YOU AND YOUR WALLET LONGEVITY FOR MANY YEARS TO COME!
JEANS: Many gentlemen can become emotionally attached to their denim. Choosing the perfect one (preferably slim fit for a more modern look) will allow many years of good use. $200
Acne Max New Raw acnestudios.com
A BIKER JACKET: A staple since the ‘30’s and probably not going anywhere. Also a great layering piece for the change of season “I don’t know what to wear” conundrums. $449
Barbour International Jacket orvis.com
GO-TO BUTTON UP: You can always rely on it to keep you looking clean and professional, no matter how you’re feeling. $64
NECK ACCESSORIES: This is the detail that will set you apart from the rest. Zara Bowtie zara.com
$19
Slim Secret Wash White Shirt jcrew.com
SHAWL COLLAR SWEATERS: V-neck sweaters may look best with collared shirts, and crewnecks may look great with T-shirts, but this looks good with everything.
PERFECT T: A must-have in any wardrobe. Invest in a good quality fabric that fits nicely for many years of wear.
SLIM FIT BLACK SUIT: A go-to for any special occasion or looking extra sharp for work. You will wow your clients! $145
ASOS Skinny Fit Suit us.asos.com
$35 H&M Sweater
James Perse
hm.com
$50 Black V-neck Tee jamesperse.com
A LEATHER BOOT: An absolute must for foot wear, it can go with almost any look. So when in doubt, chose the boots! $200
Dr. Martens Bentley Brogue Boot in Navy dmusastore.com
QUIRKY SOCKS: “Don’t hate the player, hate the game.” - Zak Mascolo
$12 American Apparel
Memphis Socks store.americanapparel.net
A MASCULINE BAG (MURSE): An essential for all of your gadgets, blowdryers and personal items we need not discuss. $110
Steven Allen Bag ‘N’ Noun Canvas Tool Bag stevenalan.com
Joseph Marzioli is the TONI&GUY Advanced Education Director in
California and a leader of the TONI&GUY Artistic Team. With more than 15 years of hairdressing experience, Joseph serves as a driving force in keeping TONI&GUY at the forefront of hairdressing fashion. His work appears in TONI&GUY collections including New Puritan, Reflective and Freedom. In addition to teaching in TONI&GUY advanced academies, Joseph travels across the country bringing TONI&GUY education to hairdressers in all corners of the United States.
Dallas Mavericks A die hard Mavs fan, but love to go to Clipper games
JOSEPH’S
Baby Blues BBQ Finger lickin’ good
DotA I’m 35 and still play Gamba Vineyards Red Zin No other red zin like it
Session Series True Wax My go-to hair product for any texture
Phineas and Ferb Still catch myself watching when my kids are over it
Louise Haircut Most impactful on my career
Chopped Up Indian Scout This is my baby No.3 Showclass Mag Dope underground bike mag that you can’t find on the shelves Levis Best when never washed
ESSENTIAL TOMMY’S TRICKS OF THE TRADE
GROOMING
by Tommy Gomez
TONI&GUY Regional Cosmetics Director
MOISTURIZE Moisturizing your face on a daily basis will help promote hydration, smooth texture and protect against environmental elements that lead to premature aging. Be sure to use a product with an SPF of 15 or higher. EXFOLIATE Exfoliation is a key step in every good skin care regimen, but most guys may not realize the benefits of a good scrub. Regular exfoliation helps get rid of dead skin cells and reveals the younger, healthier skin underneath. Exfoliating also helps with acne breakouts, to minimize pores and to get a closer shave. SMOOTH SHAVE – 3 STEPS 1. Always wash your face before you shave. This removes oil and dirt so you can get a closer shave. Gently exfoliate for an even smoother shave! 2. Shave with hot water on moist (not wet) skin. This helps to soften your facial hair. 3. Don’t forget to change your razor blade frequently for less irritation. Sensitive skin? Try shaving in the shower. Steam and moisture help soften your hair and lubricate skin to reduce irritation. BROW FIGHT THE UNIBROW To find where the brow should start, use something straight (like a pencil) from the outer sides of the ball of your nose to your brows (see example). This should be the farthest you go in to remove hair, otherwise you risk making them look too feminine. SHAPE If you’re removing hair on the bottom part of the brow, make straight or slightly curved lines. Only remove hair that is outside the main shape. TOOLS Good tweezers make the job faster and easier by gripping the hair effectively. Tweezerman Slant Tweezers are one of my personal favorites. PAIN TIP: Tweeze right when you come out of the shower when your hair follicle is relaxed. The hair will slide out more easily.
Bruno notes from
I am a firm believer that change is progress and you are only as good as your latest work. This mindset is what has built TONI&GUY and kept it relevant through the decades. It is important to note that creativity comes in many forms and, in my experience, it is more often the result of hard work then a flash of brilliance. Creativity needs to be worked through and that’s why we encourage our team members to try new things, capture their work and collaborate with each other. An ongoing venue to share creativity and be inspired is our annual Photographic Awards, but it is up to you to perfect your craft locally year around. STRUT is a place where we highlight individuals who do just that. Recently we have featured work from Aaron Watkins of Scottsdale Fashion Square Salon, Ashley Berryhill of South Coast Plaza Academy, Rachel Brumbaugh of South Coast Plaza Academy, David Evans of Santa Monica Academy, Jared Smith of Hillcrest Salon and Devon Faldon of the Dallas Academy, just to name a few. We also spotlight team members through a regular diet of how-to videos on our YouTube channel where we post new content every Tuesday and Thursday. Check out the latest videos here – youtube.com/toniguy. I am so proud of our team members and the strength and energy they bring to TONI&GUY. I hope you are as inspired as I am by the work they share. Keep up the innovation!
Bruno Mascolo, CEO