Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 60 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland ireland Volume 6 Issue 60 April 2019

Disney on Ice

Skates into Belfast and Dublin One City One Book Dublin to Honour The Country Girls

Cúirt Galway’s

Page Turner of a Festival

magazine

Amazing Armagh West Waterford Festival of Food

Dig in at Dungarvan

War Horse

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre’s Mane Attraction

DoDublin The True Dubliner’s Guide

Pat Liddy Listens to Handel’s Messiah

CONTENTS

Welcome to Leinster

Disney on Ice

War Horse

10 Theatre

14 Shopping

17 DoDublin

Leinster Restaurants

Leinster Bars

One City One Book

Welcome to Munster

Explore Munster

West Waterford Festival of Food

Munster Bars

Munster Restaurants

Cobh Heritage Centre

Welcome to Connaught

Cuirt Literature Festival

Connaught Restaurants

Connaught Bars

Explore Connaught

Welcome to Ulster

Ulster Bars

Explore Ulster

Ulster Restaurants

Game of Thrones

48 Armagh

Handel’s Messiah by Pat Liddy Explore Leinster

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our April issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country including the Dublin: One City One Book Festival, the West Waterford Festival of Food and the Cúirt International Festival of Literature in Galway. We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see including Bord Gáis Energy Theatre’s War Horse and the upcoming Disney on Ice show coming to Dublin’s Citywest Hotel and Belfast’s SSE Arena. Pat Liddy writes about composer George Frideric Handel and his relationship with Ireland while the magazine highlights the wonderful sights of Armagh and Dublin, the latter one can see with the help of DoDublin’s tours. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

Great Irish Writers

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

GOURMET FRENCH CUISINE PRE-THEATRE & EARLY-BIRD DINING VEGETARIAN, COELIAC & GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS PRIVATE DINING ROOMS AVAILABLE

81 - 82 TALBOT STREET, DUBLIN 2 |TEL: 01 704 0126 |EMAIL: INFO@LEBONCRUBEEN.IE |WWW. LEBONCRUBEEN.IE

Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

s e o r e H s y Disne lfast and Dublin Ice e B n o e t a k to S

Celebrate magic, spirit and family fun as an extraordinary line-up of Disney stories come to life right before your eyes in The Wonderful World of Disney On Ice. This skating spectacular visits the Irish capital for seven performances over three days at Dublin's Citywest Hotel from Friday, May 10 to Sunday, May 12. It will also play at Belfast's SSE Arena seven times across the May Bank holiday weekend from Friday, May 3 to Sunday, May 5. Audiences are promised a night of spectacle. The show will feature renowned figure skaters portraying famous Disney characters, retelling well-loved tales through the medium of ice-skating.

The Wonderful World of Disney on Ice combines Disneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic figures with the heroes of their recent smash hit animations. This means there should be something to appeal to the whole family, both young and old. 6

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Lion King will be seen prowling the Pride Lands of Africa; Aladdin, Jasmine and the Genie will show how friendship is fearless; and various other Disney princesses from the likes of Mulan, Sleeping Beauty, The Little Mermaid and The Princess and the Frog will take to the ice to showcase the courage and determination that led them to achieve their dreams. Originally named Disney Land Adventure and then Treasure Trove, The Wonderful World of Disney on Ice debuted in 2005. Following its retitling, in 2016, it was performed in Da Lian, China - making it the first Disney on Ice show to premiere outside the United States.

The Wonderful World of Disney on Ice is from Feld Entertainment. The live company is the worldwide leader in producing and presenting live touring family entertainment experiences. Their shows seek “to uplift the human spirit and bring people together.”

Join Mickey Mouse and his friends Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck and Goofy as they walk down memory lane and reawaken those iconic Disney moments that have spanned generations. Experience the beauty of Walt Disney’s first animated feature film, as Snow White creates her own happily ever after with the help of seven new friends. Dive deep into the East Australian Current with your favourite school of fish from Finding Nemo and Finding Dory as the two titular characters set off on an adventure to discover the true meaning of family. Travel to the wintry world of Arendelle with Anna and Elsa and the hilarious snowman Olaf from Frozen as they learn how powerful a love between sisters can be. And reach for your dreams with Tangled’s Rapunzel, as her determination illuminates her inner strength. Meanwhile, Toy Story’s Buzz and Woody will have audiences jumping out of their seat for a thrilling foot-stomping hoedown; Simba, Timon and Pumbaa from the soon to be rebooted The

Along with The Wonderful World of Disney on Ice, other properties of theirs include Monster Jam, Monster Energy Supercross, AMSOIL Arenacross, Disney Live, Sesame Street Live and Marvel Universe LIVE. Across these events, Feld Entertainment has entertained millions of families in more than 75 countries and on six continents, so you know you are in good hands. Tickets for The Wonderful World of Disney On Ice in Dublin start at €20.50. They are available now by calling Ticketmaster on 0818 719 300, logging online via www.ticketmaster.ie or visiting a Ticketmaster outlet. Tickets for the Belfast shows cost from £24.00. They can be sought by contacting The SSE Arena’s Belfast Box Office at 02890 739074 or by website via www.ssearenabelfast.com. Tickets can also be acquired in person from Ticketmaster outlets nationwide in person or by calling 0844 277 44 55. Each Disney On Ice performance lasts approximately two hours and includes one 15 to 20 minute intermission. APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

War Horse

The Bord Gais Theatre’s Mane Attraction

n astonishing life-sized puppet steed is set to canter onto the Bord Gais Theatre’s stage as The National Theatre’s smash hit play War Horse returns April 10 – 27 as part of its 10th anniversary tour. Based on the novel of the same name by Michael Morpurgo, the story recounts the experiences of Joey, a horse purchased by the Army for service in World War I France and the attempts of young Albert, his previous owner, to bring him safely home. Since receiving its world premiere in 2007, it has won 25 awards including a Tony for Best Play on Broadway and has been seen in 10 countries by over 7 million. It was also adapted into a film in 2011 by Steven Spielberg. A horse’s lung capacity is the same as three people. Thus, Joey is operated by three puppeteers. He showed off a

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handful of party tricks to journalists at a preview on February 1. These included standing on his hind legs and snatching an attendee’s handbag with his teeth. With his astonishingly life-like movement, breathing and sounds, one could be forgiven for mistaking the puppet – crafted by The Handspring Puppet Company from South Africa – for the real thing. Speaking at that preview, War Horse Residency Puppeteer Director Matthew Forbes explained: “He’s life-sized, beautifully handmade and brilliantly looked after by our puppet technicians and brought to life by the puppeteers.” How does Joey work? Forbes explained that the puppet functions through a series of triggers built into the horse structure made from a cane frame and stretched fabric. Each puppeteer is then responsible for a distinct set of tasks to mimic a real steed.

The head puppeteer stays outside the horse and is focused on moving Joey’s head. Their most important roles are to make sure the steed’s face is raised so the audience can see where he is looking and to operate his ears. The latter help convey emotion. The more forward the ears are, the more relaxed the horse seems. Inside the horse is first the heart puppeteer whose main function is to sell to the crowd the weight of Joey through careful manoeuvring of the front legs. Also, by shifting the puppet’s frame up and down, they give the audience a sense of how tired the animal is. The higher up, the sprightlier Joey appears. Lastly is the hind puppeteer. They are responsible for the horse’s huge back legs, as well as his tail. All three of the puppeteers have also microphones attached to them throughout the show, enabling them to provide breathing and animal noises for Joey, on top of carrying his weight of 10 stone. Speaking to Travel Ireland Magazine about the energy required for the show, heart puppeteer Michael Taibi said: “It’s physically demanding but also rewarding. When you first start, your body must get used to the strain but when you do, you learn to pace yourself throughout the show.” According to hind puppeteer Derek Arnold, the National Theatre always employ a travelling physio with them and provide pilates classes. “You’re constantly looked after. They put so much effort into helping you maintain what you need.” Both Arnold and Taibi had no puppeteering experience prior to War Horse, coming from an acting background. According to the two, the latter was a huge help in bringing Joey to life. “You can tell if someone’s just operating the puppet with blank emotion in their human face. It’s conveyed in the puppet,” says Taibi. “But if someone’s really investing in it emotionally, that comes through the puppet and therefore to the audience.” The three puppeteers – including Sam Clark as head puppeteer – believe the manoeuvrability of Joey elevates the play. “What’s lovely about War Horse is they don’t hide the fact there are puppeteers there. What that does is invite the audience to believe in this make-believe world,” says Arnold. “That’s why at the end of two hours, people cry and are emotionally connected. They are invested because they have put in two hours of work just like the people on stage.” Joey really needs to be seen to be believed. Thankfully, Irish audiences will have a chance. Tickets are from €21.00 and are on sale now from Ticketmaster. For more details, see bordgaisenergytheatre.ie. APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre Slap and Tickle by Liz Aggiss

The Abbey Theatre

In Our Veins by Lee Coffey

The Olympia Theatre Rhythm of the Dance

Life-long Dublin docker Patrick has passed away surrounded by his beloved wife Esther, his son and his grandchildren. As they remember his life, Esther recounts a tale they are yet to hear. A new play, In Our Veins follows its central family through 100 years of the Irish capital, from the notorious madams of the Monto to love in the dark tenements. Dates: April 10 - 20 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Conceived, written, choreographed and performed by Liz Aggiss, Slap and Tickle is an award winning, dark and ribald physical commentary on cultural mores and sexual taboos. A disorientating display of interpretations and contradictions about women, girls, mothers, and senior citizens, the work beats a path through the personal and historical. Described as a ‘feminist soup’, Slap and Tickle moves from spoken word to expressionist movement, from music hall to radio nostalgia, from costume change to prop manipulation.

Also at the Abbey this month: Dublin Will Show You How Apr 4 – 6, Ulster American Apr 9 – 20, It was easy (in the end) Apr 26 – May 4, Trad Apr 30 – May 11

The Gate Theatre

Beginning by David Eldridge

An exciting two-hour trip through hundreds of years of Irish dance and music, this event features 22 award-winning dancers and 25 dazzling costume changes. Experience flailing fiddles, flutes, inspiring dances and live vocalists, all complimented with a sensational sound and light show. Organisers say worldwide toes are tapping and hands are clapping to the feet of Rhythm of the Dance. Dates: Apr 6 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

The Gaiety Theatre

Stones in his Pockets by Marie Jones

A small village in rural Ireland is turned upside down when a major Hollywood film studio descends to make a historical blockbuster on location. The story is told through the eyes of Charlie Conlon and Jake Quinn, employed as extras along with numerous other locals. As cultures clash, it becomes clear that Tinseltown’s romanticised dream of Ireland is a long, long way from reality.

Dates: Apr 18 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre War Horse

Dates: Apr 8 - 13 Also at the Gaiety this month: Menopause: The Musical Apr 1 – 6, The Verdict Apr 16 – 20, Light a Penny Candle Apr 23 – May 4

Smock Alley Theatre Spotless by Gary Duggan

Based on the novel by Michael Morpurgo, War Horse recounts the experiences of Joey, a horse purchased by the Army for service in World War I France and the attempts of young Albert, his previous owner, to bring him safely home. Featuring astonishing puppet work to depict its central character, the Tony-winning theatre adaptation has been seen in 10 countries by over 7 million. For more details, see page 8. Dates: Apr 10 - 27 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie 10

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Set in the aftermath of a housewarming party, Beginning takes place in real time as the lonely host and a divorced friend of a friend flirt while bonding over their isolation. Staring Eileen Walsh (Catastrophe, Women on the Verge) and Marty Rea (Citizen Lane), this two-hander has been described as the perfect anti-romance for 21st century life, focusing on single people dealing with the challenges of connecting and sharing. Dates: Mar 28 – Apr 20 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie Also at the Gate this month: The Glass Menagerie Apr 25 – Jun 1

This darkly humorous and gripping suburban thriller focuses on forty-something Genevieve - who has downsized from an affluent suburb and struggles with life in her new home backing onto a grim block of flats - and Jenny - a leaving cert student who lives in the flats and wants a way out. When these two very different people become entangled with a mysterious young man, neither woman’s life will ever be the same again. Dates: Apr 22 - 27 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com Also at Smock Alley this month: 48 Apr 8 – 13, The Seamster’s Daughter Apr 15 – May 4

Almost immediately a busy round of engagements started for the famed composer and he was feted by the great and noble, by charitable institutions, music impresarios and the churches who regularly performed his music. The court of Dublin Castle, led by the Viceroy himself and attended by the aristocracy of the land, indulged his every wish. Competition was keen to invite the presence of the man who many thought of at the time to be the world’s greatest living composer. So why did such an eminent personage come to a city which you might have thought was a bit of a European backwater. Well, you couldn’t be more wrong to have thought of Dublin then as a non-consequential place. In fact, it was considered to be the second city of the British Empire at the time and several internationally famous musicians, composers, actors and performers in the arts were frequent visitors. What inspired Handel, German-born but now a naturalised British citizen, to come to Ireland was primarily an invitation he received from the Viceroy in Ireland, William Cavendish, Duke of Devonshire. It came at a very appropriate time for Handel as his career in England was faltering due to Italian opera, previously his main output, beginning to go out of fashion. He also had incurred serious debts arising from some failed business enterprises.

Handel’s Messiah

By Pat Liddy

After a sea-sickening voyage, George Frederic Handel arrived into the harbour of Dublin on November 18, 1741, possibly landing on the pier where the Clarence Hotel is today (Wellington Quay). He quickly sorted himself into his lodgings on Abbey Street (today’s Upper Abbey Street near Liffey Street – alas his house has since been demolished).

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Once settled in Dublin, Handel was not one to hang about. He correctly sensed an insatiable appetite in Dublin for his music and he organised a busy programme of public concerts of his work. The first six concerts were quickly sold out and, ever-conscious of solving his financial predicaments, he promoted a further six. Cutting out the middleman the canny Handel sold all the tickets himself from his own house. Also, knowing the lesser value of the Irish currency, he calculated his sales in English guineas and shillings. All this time, in the midst of a whirlwind of concerts and social engagements, Handel was planning to launch on an unsuspecting world his latest creation, Messiah. The oratorio (an oratorio being essentially an opera without costume or acting) was written in an incredibly short time of around 3 weeks in London, before he left for Dublin. He fixed April 13 for his premiere and being a man of generous spirit (which he could now literally afford to be) he decided to offer all the proceeds from the first performance to three charities. Dublin may have been a rich, progressive city but the rising tide didn’t lift all boats. Most of the population, mainly oppressed Roman Catholics, was grindingly poor in a city governed by a privileged Protestant elite. The three fortunate charities were Mercer’s Hospital, the Charitable Infirmary and the Society for the Relief of Imprisoned Debtors. His venue for the historic occasion would be the recently opened Neal’s New Musick Hall on Fishamble Street. Handel assembled singers and musicians of the highest quality available. His orchestral leader was Dubliner and personal friend, violinist Matthew Douberg. One of his singers was actor and contralto Susannah Cibber, sister of Thomas Arne, the composer of Rule Britannia, also in Dublin at the same time promoting programmes of his own music. The choir was drawn from the cathedrals of Christ Church and St Patrick’s. Jonathan Swift, Dean of St Patrick’s and author of Gulliver’s Travels, was initially vehemently opposed to the use of his singers until it was explained to him that the performance was for charitable purposes. The music hall could accommodate 600 patrons but Handel was anxious to earn as much as possible for the charities so to squeeze in even

more he ordered the men not to wear their swords nor the women to don their wide skirt hoops! The oratorio, with Handel himself leading from the organ, was an outstanding success and completely reaffirmed his reputation as the foremost composer of his time ( J. S. Bach was active at the same time but his work was less well-known in his lifetime). Handel, now completely reinvigorated, returned to London in August of that year and over the remaining 17 years of his life produced some of his greatest oratorios. He always felt that he owed Dublin the credit for his ‘restoration’. However, Handel’s health slowly deteriorated including going totally blind from an unsuccessful cataract operation and he died in London on April 14, 1759. The last musical performance he heard, on April 6, was of his own Messiah. He was buried in Westminster Abbey, recognized in England as the greatest composer of his day. Messiah itself has become, perhaps, the most enduring of all choral works ever written. In recognition of his memorable visit to Dublin, there is a free public performance of Messiah extracts held on the street outside the site of the former music hall on Fishamble Street on April 13 this year at 1.00pm (details for this and other associated events see www.olcs.ie/wp/ events). Finishing in time for the street concert this author will lead a tour on that day celebrating Handel’s visit to Dublin and his enrichment of the life of this city. The tour will start from outside the church on St Andrew’s Street (beside the Molly Malone statue) at 10.30 am, price €14. See www.walkingtours.ie.

dodublintours

TED VO

Whether you want to sit back and soak up the culture at Dublin’s historic sites or get out there and explore the streets, meet the people and sample the Guinness, our guides can help you make the most of your holiday and see the city like a local.

Dublin’s No.1 Bus Tour A D VIS

FREE Kids FREE Hotel Shuttle FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum of Dublin

Book a Tour

The Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin

Book online dodublin.ie

Buy in person at Dublin Bus Head Office 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Hop on and pay driver

dodublin.ie APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Courtville – Matthew Weldon

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.

www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 14

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Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 01-6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

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This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - APRIL 2019

DoDublin See the Dublin You Know and the Dublin You Don’t

DoDublin offers the ultimate Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin and is the ideal way to view the city.

Dubliners born and raised, the DoDublin guides possess both the wit and charm of Irish storytellers and an unrivalled knowledge of Dublin. The latter has been nurtured through years of growing up and living life in Ireland’s biggest city but more importantly by driving its buses around an ever-changing town. That’s right, all DoDublin guides are Dublin Bus drivers. They have spent their careers being dedicated proud hosts of the city. For this reason, you can be sure of the fact no-one knows the capital quite like them. What does the local recommend? DoDublin guides love all the major attractions. They are especially proud that such world-famous landmarks as St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Guinness Storehouse, and Kilmainham Gaol are just a stone’s throw from where they played as children. Hop on a green DoDublin tour bus and learn the great stories that helped the capital evolve into the city it is today. Then, hop off and explore attractions you’ve wanted to see for years from Dublin Zoo to the National Museums or new sights like The Vaults Live off Thomas Street. DoDublin’s guides have their own personal favourites though. These are places just off the beaten track and easy to miss. The tour guides are only too happy to share these spots with visitors to the city, making for a more authentic personalised tour. When in the Guinness Storehouse, before you hop back on the bus, don’t forget that you are in the Liberties, one of the beating hearts of the city. There are so many experiences in this part of town. It is an area that should be enjoyed by all visitors. If you are lucky, at one end of the cultural

quarter Temple Bar, the Designer Mart on Cow’s Lane will be in full swing. After you have had a browse through the pretty jewellery, art and craft items on sale, learn about the history of this unique part of Dublin city centre. Meanwhile, it’s often forgotten that the capital has a plentiful supply of parklands and walking trails on its doorstep. Not far from the heart of the city, you can meander the leafy trail running alongside the Royal Canal. Near Stop 2 on the DoDublin Tour, you will find Hardwicke Place. It’s worth paying a visit to St. George's Church, which was modelled on St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, near Trafalgar Square in London. The church is somewhat quirky in the Dublin landscape. It’s perceived as being built incorrectly, as it is wider than it is longer. Another site that is really an oddity in Dublin is St. Michan’s Church - located not too far from the Jameson Distillery Bow Street (Stop 31 on the DoDublin Tour). Underneath the church, which dates back to 1095, are five long burial vaults containing the mummified remains of many of Dublin's most inﬂuential 17th, 18th and 19th century families. Due to limestone in the walls, this spooky underground space is home to the well-preserved remains of a 400-year-old nun, the Sheares Brothers - who took part in the 1798 rebellion - as well as various other Irish figures. The crypts are completely accessible. If you dare, you can reach out and touch the bodies’ fingers or even shake their hands delicately. What about that for something different? With every Hop-On Hop-Off ticket, you will get free entry to the Little Museum of Dublin at

St. Stephen’s Green worth €10. It’s one of the top museums in Ireland, featuring fantastic storytellers and thousands of Dublin related exhibits dotted through the museum. You will also get a free walking tour worth €14 with Travel Ireland’s own Pat Liddy, one of the best walking tour guides in the business. As evident from his monthly column for this magazine, he is a true blue Dub who knows the city better than anyone. Kids go free (two kids under 14 with each adult). For more information, visit DoDublin’s website at dodublin.ie APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - APRIL 2019

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

Café Topolis

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven. 37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

The Left Bank Bistro

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com

La Ruelle Wine Bar

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals. 140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

La Resérve Brasserie

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you.

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin Ă&#x2030;

Sin Ă&#x2030; on Ormond Quay is Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original late night alternative music venue. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, Sin Ă&#x2030; caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin Ă&#x2030; is

Ç§ definitely the place to be. Ä&#x2020;Ä&#x17E;ÇŚ Ä&#x17D;Ä&#x2019;Ä&#x160; Ä&#x160;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201C; Ä&#x2039;Ä&#x2014;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x2019; Í&#x2022;Í&#x2013; Ä&#x201C;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201C;

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about Í&#x153;Í&#x2022;ÇŚÍ&#x153;Í&#x2013; Â&#x2013;Â&#x192;Â&#x17D;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2013; Â&#x2022;Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2013;ÇĄ Â&#x2020;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2039;Â? Â&#x2026;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2013;Â&#x203A; Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â?Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021; the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Ç¤Â&#x2013;Â&#x160;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2013;Ç¤Â&#x2039;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2013;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;ÇŁ Í&#x201D;Í&#x2022; Í&#x153;Í&#x203A;Í&#x153; Í&#x153;Í&#x161;Í&#x2122;Í&#x2122; Tickets available at the bar for â&#x201A;Ź18.

the celt

Groganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local beers such as 5 Lamps and craft beers such as Sierra Nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2, D02 NR59 Phone: (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - APRIL 2019

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history was renovated. Now run by the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028

Persian Cuisine

14-15 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 1 - 01 677 3595 44/45 Lr Camden St., Dublin 2 - 01 400 5006 Delivery Number 01 4005700

Established in January 2000 Zaytoon restaurants have two branches in 14/15 Parliament street and 44/45 lower Camden street. They are casual diners offering delicious kebabs served with freshly made naan bread which is cooked in a traditional Persian clay oven. Often referred to as having the best kebabs in Ireland. Here at Zaytoon we pride ourselves on sourcing and providing the highest quality products. All our meat and poultry are Irish and fully traceable. By day Zaytoon is full of tourists and business people, by night itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s packed to the gills with midnight revellers jostling to get one of our famous kebabs!

Photo: Shane Connaughton

ONE CITY Country Girls ONE BOOK Dublin to Honour The Trilogy

dna O’Brien’s Country Girls Trilogy will be the featured book in this year’s Dublin: One City One Book Festival. The event is an exciting reading initiative, started 14 years ago by Dublin City Council Public Libraries. Its goal is to encourage people to read a book associated with the capital during the month of April. People are encouraged to read the trio of novels, published by Faber & Faber. It consists of The Country Girls (1960), The Lonely Girl (1962) and Girls in Their Married Bliss (1964). Together they tell the story of two young girls

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - APRIL 2019

from Co Clare, Cait Brady and Baba Brennan, tracking them from childhood through adolescence, emigration to Dublin and then London, marriage and the terrible reckonings of adult life. Often credited with breaking silence on sexual matters and social issues in a period when the Catholic Church held inﬂuence over Irish life, the first entry in the trilogy was banned in the country by the authorities and publicly burned by the clergy. Notoriety quickly turned to fame, however, as the coming of age story became a best-seller, achieving critical acclaim internationally. The Country Girls was even adapted

into a 1983 film starring Sam Neill for which O’Brien wrote the screenplay. Speaking about the three novels today, organisers of the festival say: “They changed the temperature of Irish literature and inspired generations of readers and writers.” O’Brien, in reaction to her trilogy being chosen for the event, said: "I worked in Dublin from 1948 to 1952. It's where I first encountered literature and set out on the very secret and profane matter of writing The Country Girls Trilogy. I never dreamed the trilogy would last so long and make it to this winning post. I am delighted and hope

Photo: Fennell Photography

The month-long festival will feature dramatised readings; a new Dublin City Council Libraries exhibition on banned books titled Evil Literature and talks on censorship, coming of age novels and women’s roles in Irish society in the 1950s and ‘60s.

new readers won’t have to hide it under the bedcovers as they did in the sixties and onwards … Dublin has given me longevity.” The month-long festival will feature dramatised readings; a new Dublin City Council Libraries exhibition on banned books titled Evil Literature and talks on censorship, coming of age novels and women’s roles in Irish society in the 1950s and ‘60s. There will also be music performances, film screenings, documentaries, workshops and seminars. The ﬂagship event is An Evening with Edna, a night of music, readings and discussion in The Round Room, Mansion

House on Wednesday, April 24. In the writer’s home county of Clare, book clubs affiliated with Clare County Libraries will also be reading the trilogy this April. On top of this, RTÉ Radio One’s The Book on One will be putting a spotlight on The Country Girls, while the new theatre adaptation of the novel by O’Brien continues its run at the Abbey until April 6 before going on a national tour. The latter will see performances of the play at Cork Opera House (April 16 – 20), Galway’s Town Hall Theatre (April 23 – 27) and Limerick’s Lime Tree Theatre (April 30 – May 4).

The trilogy is available to borrow from libraries in print and audio formats and can be downloaded as an eBook from the libraries’ free Borrowbox app. It can also be bought in bookshops. O’Brien has continued to write prolifically, releasing 18 novels, as well as several short story collections, plays, biographies and a memoir entitled Country Girl in 2012. Her highlyanticipated upcoming novel Girl will be published this Autumn. For more information about the Dublin: One City One Book festival, visit the event’s website at www.dublinonecityonebook.ie.

APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

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you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 26

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08

West Waterford Festival of Food n a v r a g n u D t a in Dig Taste, trails and theatre will take centre stage at the 12th annual West Waterford Festival of Food, happening in the scenic seaside town of Dungarvan from April 26 – 28.

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“This year’s programme is bigger and hopefully better than ever,” said chairperson for the festival, Anita Geoghegan, at the festival’s launch party at the Cliff Townhouse beside Dublin’s Stephen’s Green on March 14. “We have over 120 events in just three days which is spectacular. On top of that, we’ve more than 100 stalls on the Saturday and Sunday for the festival’s markets.” Now one of the largest and best-known food festivals in Ireland, this year’s event will tie together the best of indigenous produce from the region, taken from between the Comeragh Mountains and Celtic Sea. It also features a vast line-up of household-name chefs, dinners in historic venues, pop-up dining events, workshops, demos and tasty restaurant and foraging trails. An early highlight of the festival is its opening event. The historic Lismore Castle will play host to discerning diners

seeking a taste of the past, bundled into 800 years of history. Guests will have the opportunity to enjoy a Michelin starred menu designed and prepared by chefs Ross Lewis (Chapter One), Danni Barry (Balloo House) and Paula Stakelum (Ashford Castle). On the festival’s Saturday, there will be another event set in a stately home as Woodhouse Estate in Stradbally will be opened for ‘A Great House Dinner’. Ireland’s rising female chefs Rose Greene (In de Wulf, Belgium), Holly Dalton (3fe / Gertrude) and Maeve Walsh (Canteen and Eurotoques Young Chef of the Year 2015 & 2016) will delight diners with a wonderful celebration of Irish food and their vision of what the future holds for the country’s dining. Other noteworthy events include ‘Supper Theatre’ in Dungarvan Mart, which returns for its second year. Actor Aidan Dooley will deliver a performance

based on the travels and tales of Antarctic Explorer Tom Crean. This will then be followed by a ‘Ship’s Supper’ served by chef Louise Clark (Nude Food). It will be made with ingredients one could find at the South Pole. The festival will also host an Irish premiere – ‘The Cushty Dining Experience’. A tribute to classic British sitcom Only Fools and Horses, traditional Irish pub An Seanachaí will transform into the show’s bar The Nags Head for a night of wheeling, dealing and dining with Rodney, Del Boy and friends. Speaking to Travel Ireland Magazine, Geoghegan was particularly excited about the festival’s collaboration with FoodCloud, a social enterprise that redistributes unwanted, in-date food from businesses to charities. “They have made 45 million meals that otherwise would have gone to waste. That’s stunning.” As well as giving a talk, FoodCloud

will host a dinner. Chef Tom Walsh (Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links) will be preparing a feast from salvaged produce. “As far as I know, it’s going to be a five-course tasting menu,” says Geoghegan. “The price is €30. I’ve heard discussion of what they want to serve, and it sounds elaborate, though they can’t think up the menu until they know what’s in FoodCloud that week. It will be an interesting, different kind of event.” In terms of trails, lovers of fresh air and food can avail of tours of spots like the Comeragh Mountains and Colligan Wood. Also available is a seaside trip focusing on the bounty available on the coast and a Georgian quarter restaurant trail, taking in some of the town’s historic buildings and three different restaurants over three courses. On top of all this, there will be Middle Eastern feasts, Mexican pop-ups, as well as the festival’s Saturday and Sunday markets.

According to the festival chair, there is plenty for all age groups: “It goes on all weekend. There are some free public events. If you have a tenner in your pocket, you’ll have a good time. If you wanted, you could spend multiples and multiples of that.” Geoghegan revealed the line-up took six months to plan. She said the programme is so packed in fact that ‘no matter how hard you try this year, you can’t get to half the events.’ Over 50,000 people from across Ireland attended in 2018. However, Geoghegan is confident the festival will draw bigger numbers next month. “This year, weather permitting, is going to be even better. That’s because we’ve got more lined up, events that will suit the whole community.” Tickets for the West Waterford Festival of Food are on sale now. For more details, see the event’s site at westwaterfordfestivaloffood.com

APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Dick Mack’s

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

Out of the Blue

The Castle's Award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide, and holder of two AA Rosettes. Under the direction of the Resort’s Head Chef Tom Spruce, the award winning culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. The restaurants original oak panelled walls, ornate ceilings, dramatic portraits and painted scenes creates an atmospheric backdrop to an exquisite dining experience, perfectly complemented by a comprehensive wine cellar. Visit our Fitzgerald Bar which houses the finest Irish whiskey collection. Located just ten minutes from Waterford City, and ninety minutes from Dublin and Cork airport, Waterford Castle Resort is a destination not to be missed. Voted #5 of the Ten Best Hotels in Ireland 2018 by Condé Nast Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Luxury Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island |Waterford | Ireland w. www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant t. +353 (0) 51 878 203

The Strand Inn

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays)

The Smuggler’s Inn

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo

2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Lobster

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford.

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it.

Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

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1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

Dingle Crystal F

rom humble beginnings, Dingle Crystal have established themselves on the world stage thanks to their commitment to producing mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal. In an era when many other brands have gone down the wholesale route, this family-run company still proudly produce unique, hand crafted pieces that can be found in the collections of the President of Ireland and Bono to name but two. With every piece signed and dated, it’s not hard to see why Dingle Crystal’s work would be appealing to those visiting the country, looking for an exclusive souvenir of their trip to Ireland. They also cater to those living abroad, shipping worldwide. Their fantastic work in this field was recently recognised at the SME Awards 2016, where they won the award for Best Online Exporter. If you do visit Dingle then a trip to the new Dingle Crystal Factory & Visitor Centre is a must. While there you can take a tour of their workshop where you will find company founder Sean Daly hard at work. This is a wonderful opportunity to observe a master craftsman and see how Dingle Crystal’s incredible designs are created. There aren’t many craftsmen left making pieces the way Sean and his sons do and the tour is fascinating and informative. From bowls to glasses, candlesticks and vases, Dingle Crystal can create the perfect souvenir or gift that you won’t find anywhere else. They also offer beautiful whiskey glasses that have proved extremely popular all over the world. These glasses are the perfect match for Irish whiskey but make sure you get your order in early - these handmade glasses are in great

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demand. It’s not hard to see why as they really are astounding creations that would stand out in anyone’s collection. Visit their new Factory & Visitor Centre. They cater for groups of all sizes, with personal demonstrations with Master Craftsman Sean Daly and his sons. Please contact Adam on 0669151550 or email adam@dinglecrystal.ie to organise a tour. Dingle Crystal Unit 4 Ballinaboola Industrial Estate Dingle Co. Kerry 066 9151550 info@dinglecrystal.ie www.dinglecrystal.ie

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all. APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Photograph © Soela Zani

Cúirt Festival Witness Galway’s Great Literary Event

Photograph © Matthes & Seitz Berlin

The Cúirt International Festival of Literature in Galway is set to shine a spotlight on both national and international literary talent from April 8 – 14.

rogramme highlights include Nigerian writer Ben Okri, international spoken word poets Patricia Smith and Rafeef Ziadah, acclaimed American novelist Joshua Cohen, leading Irish author Joseph O’Connor, classical musician Min Kym, The Irish Times’ Sinéad Gleeson, in addition to Galway writers like Nicole Flattery, Mary O’Malley, Rita Ann Higgins, Ndrek Gjini, Aoibheann McCann, Gerry Hanberry and Nuala O’Connor.

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“In our 34-year history, this is one of our most broadly international Cúirt Festivals yet, featuring renowned writers from over 15 countries, as well as the very best Irish authors,” says Programme Director Emily Cullen. “Each of these storytellers carries with them unique experiences from distant lands and cultures and Cúirt is honoured to enable the exchange of knowledge, language and ideas.” As part of Cúirt’s central ‘literature of witness’ theme this year, the festival will be presenting two riveting, provocative voices on the international contemporary spoken word stage. Multi award-winning author Patricia Smith (Incendiary Art) will perform alongside Palestinian poet and human rights activist Rafeef Ziadah, whose works such as ‘We Teach Life, Sir’ and ‘Shades of Anger’ went viral within days of release. This event will be chaired by journalist and broadcaster Olivia O’Leary and recorded for ‘The Poetry Programme’ on RTÉ Radio One. A reading by Nigerian-born Booker Prize winner, Ben Okri is another notable highlight this year. An acclaimed essayist, playwright, and poet, he will be in conversation with writer and broadcaster, Vincent Woods.

The two will discuss freedom, the role of the artist, the inspiration behind his novels and traditions of storytelling in Nigeria and Ireland. The Cúirt keynote, ‘Human Rights in the Age of Terrorism: Perspectives and Reﬂections’, will be presented by Irish academic lawyer Fionnuala Ní Aoláin (On the Frontlines: Gender, War and the Post Conﬂict Process). For the past two decades, democracies have made counter-terrorism efforts a foreign policy priority. However, a number of these measures have raised serious human rights concerns. This event will be chaired by Prof. Siobhán Mullally, Director of the Irish Centre for Human Rights at NUI Galway. A unique event, ‘Transhumanism: Extending Mortality’ will explore just how far humanity can accommodate technology in the quest to extend life expectancy. Mark O’Connell will read from his provocative book, To Be a Machine, which was awarded the 2018 Wellcome Book Prize. Meanwhile, internationally-acclaimed young novelists, Joshua Cohen (Moving Kings, Book of Numbers) and Will Eaves (Murmur), will feature in another special reading.

‘Gone: A girl, a violin, a life unstrung’ will showcase the literary and musical talents of Min Kym, author and virtuoso violinist. Cúirt, in partnership with Music for Galway, will present this unique event featuring the Koreanborn, London-raised musician. She will discuss growing up as a child prodigy, providing insight into the world of a budding soloist, as well as perform some of the musical works mentioned in her bestselling memoir. The theme of ‘witness’ resonates once again in ‘Voices from Albania: Beyond Dictatorship’ which features English PEN award-winner, Luljeta Lleshanaku and Galway-based Albanian poet, Ndrek Gjini (founder of The Galway Review). An upsurge in Albanian writing followed the collapse of Enver Hoxha’s dictatorship in 1990. Poets and writers were given complete freedom to write, almost overnight. This new work was original because the poets had experienced virtually no contact with the literature of the outside world. Join two old friends as they enlighten festival goers about the fraught and gripping

history of Albania and its literature. Cúirt will also launch its panEuropean project, ‘Read Me I Am Yours’ as part of its World Literature Day on Tuesday, April 9. This day will enable the sharing of stories from a host of other cultures, with a special focus on minority languages. Culminating in the popular ‘World Perspectives’ event celebrating international literature in English translation - participants shall include German writer Esther Kinsky (River), France’s Sylvain Prudhomme (The Greats), Croatia’s Igor Stiks (The Judgment of Richard Richter) and Slovenian writer, Jasmin B. Frelih (In/Half) Cúirt provides a vital platform for emerging young writers alongside

established ‘household names’, Sarah DavisGoff, Sue Rainsford, Emilie Pine, Ian Maleney, Nicole Flattery and Aoibheann McCann will share their vibrant visions. Likewise, the poetry line-up features both well-known poets like Tess Gallagher, Thomas McCarthy, Mark Granier and Moyra Donaldson alongside notable newcomers such as Ailbhe Darcy, Jessica Traynor and John Kelly. On top of all this, the Anne Kennedy Professional Development Day for writers on the first day of the festival is back. It’s been expanded to include a diverse array of workshops for writers at all stages of their careers. It will be addressing the novel, the short story, writing for young adults, spoken word, and advanced poetry. The festival is also offering a free masterclass on the appreciation of Irish music with Cúirt’s musician-in-residence and uilleann piper, Ronan Browne. He will be sharing the distinctive sound of the Irish pipes at various events during the festival week. The full Cúirt Festival programme is available at Cuirt.ie, along with more details. Meanwhile, tickets are on sale via The Town Hall Theatre at tht.ie

APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

Upstairs at Wood & Bell

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

A new restaurant by the celebrated former Ireland rugby player Keith Wood is now open in the lakeside village of Killaloe, Co Clare. Led by executive chef Paddy Collins, Upstairs at Wood & Bell features a succinct and assured menu offering classic, French-influenced dishes. Many of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s own gardens which overlook Lough Derg and are managed by Keith’s wife, avid gardener Nicola Wood.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Main Street, Killaloe, Co Clare. Wednesday to Saturday, 5.30-9.45pm. Advance booking is advised. Tel: 061 517 480 Email info@woodandbell.com Facebook: / woodandbell

Eala Bhán

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie 38

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Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Brasserie on the Corner

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate! Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 42

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play. 44

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Game of Thrones: The Touring Exhibition g in om C is r te in W g, in pr S in Even Call your bannermen … Game of Thrones: The Touring Exhibition will make its debut visit to the UK and Ireland at the TEC Belfast, Northern Ireland, for a limited run from April 11, 2019.

Based on the smash hit HBO fantasy series, the dramatic exhibition combines costumes, authentic props and majestic settings from all seven seasons of the show to create an interactive and immersive Game of Thrones experience like no other. The largest public display based on the George R. R. Martin adaptation yet, it will run until September 1, 2019 in the 5,000m2 venue. Given how much of the series was shot in Belfast and other areas of Northern Ireland, the exhibition continues Game of Thrones’ incredible legacy in the region. In fact, the TEC Belfast - which is in the footprint of the legendary Titanic Studios – is where much of the series was filmed over a 10-year period. As such, fans will be able to authentically immerse themselves in the fictional villages of Westeros and Essos, as well as relive the trials and tribulations of those who struggle for survival in the shadow of the Iron, ahead of the highly anticipated eighth and final season. The exhibition will give attendees the experience of a lifetime with an up-close and personal look at the artistry and craftsmanship behind the Emmy award-winning series. Fans will have the opportunity to see the wintry landscapes of the North and the tree-lined pathway of the Kingsroad; view a garrison

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of Unsullied warriors and the iconic costumes of House Targaryen; step into the House of Black and White; explore Castle Black - the home of the Night’s Watch; and battle for the Iron Throne. Opening times for the exhibition throughout April and May are 10am to 7pm daily. Featuring Irish actors Aidan Gillen, Aisling Franciosi, Ciaran Hinds, Conleth Hill, Ian McElhinney, Jack Gleeson, Liam Cunningham, Richard Dormer and Michelle Fairley, Game of Thrones premiered on HBO in April 2011. It is set in a mythical continent and follows several powerful families as they fight for control of the land. Throughout its time on the air, it has attracted record viewership for the network and has earned a broad, active, international fanbase. It is also critically acclaimed, with the show receiving 47 Primetime Emmy Awards, including Outstanding Drama Series in 2015, 2016, and 2018, more than any other primetime scripted television programme. The eighth and final season of Game of Thrones is scheduled to premiere on April 14 on HBO in America and April 15 on Sky Atlantic in the UK and Ireland. Unlike previous seasons, it only consists of six episodes and will wrap up in May 2019. Thus, now is the time to bend the knee and book tickets for this not-to-be-missed blockbuster exhibition. From April to May, tickets cost £15 Monday to Thursday and £17.50 Friday to Sunday. For more details, visit Game of Thrones: The Touring Exhibition website at www.gameofthronesexhibition.co.uk.

Armagh

City Youth Hostel is the Place to Stay

Located in Armagh City Centre, Armagh City Youth Hostel is the ideal location to stay while exploring the town’s landmarks and checking out the many great events taking place in the county this Spring.

ll the main city attractions are within a comfortable walking distance from the hostel. These include two impressive cathedrals dedicated to St Patrick on account of the Irish patron saint’s special relationship with the town. Also, on offer is Armagh Observatory and Planetarium, the Armagh County Museum, the Mall and the Market Place Theatre, along with guided tours exploring the town’s gorgeous Georgian buildings, stunning ancient sites, and age-old walkways. If that’s not enough, there are plenty of great places to eat and drink. Enjoy a light bite or a sumptuous meal in one of the city’s many award-winning eateries including 4 Vicars, Uluru Bar & Grill and Groucho’s. Meanwhile, from wine to cocktails, craft beers and the traditional black stuff, great spots like Red 48

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Ned’s, The Hole in the Wall and Keegan’s have you covered. Coffee lovers won’t be caught short either with uniquely independent outlets like Embers, The Basement, Allen’s and Tin House Coffee. Recently refurbished, Armagh City Youth Hostel offers comfortable modern accommodation at an affordable price. With groups of all sizes welcome, it is suitable for individuals, groups and families seeking both a relaxing holiday or an explorative break in the area. Within the 4* rated hostel, there are 18 rooms, including twin, double and dorm rooms, all offering en-suite bedroom facilities. The hostel offers its residents free car parking, a fully equipped kitchen, spacious dining and lounge areas, free Wi-Fi and a left luggage facility. On top of all this, the building is

wheelchair accessible. Armagh City Youth Hostel has received a host of five-star rave reviews on leading travel website TripAdvisor. Users have called it ‘superb’, praising its central location, friendly and helpful staff and unbeatable price. For further information about Armagh City Youth Hostel and to book a stay, contact info@ armaghyouthhostel.com. The Apple in Armagh’s Eye | The Apple Blossom Festival Why not combine your stay at Armagh City Youth Hostel with the county’s upcoming Apple Blossom Festival, marking the start of 2019’s growing season. Taking place from Friday, May 10 to Sunday, May 12,

apple producers and related businesses will open their farms to the public for a wide range of special events. Long Meadow Cider Company will be providing Orchard Tours where you can sample the business’s delicious produce. They will also host event Art in the Orchard, an opportunity for attendees to let their inner artist free, as well as a Flower Installation workshop. Meanwhile, the home to the original Bramley Apple producer in the county, Crannagael House, is offering special Bramley Beginnings tours. Dan Winters Cottage will be producing tempting apple puddings with their Blossom to Griddle event, while National Trust property Ardress House will celebrate the blossom season with Apple Blossom Sundays, a chance for the family to enjoy orchard activities and tastes. Another notable event-taking place this spring in Armagh is the multi-award winning F.E. McWilliam Gallery and Studio in Banbridge’s exhibition Locky Morris: once a day every day all day long. It focuses on the Northern Irish artist’s work made since 2010. After enjoying a showcase of his work in Pittsburgh, New York, Belgrade, Prague and

Salzburg, the gallery says Morris is a master at finding beauty in the quotidian details of life and that he has created unexpected and often humorous art out of his everyday experiences. Admission is free and the exhibition continues until May 18. While there, check out F.E. McWilliam Gallery and Studio’s inhouse award-winning restaurant Quails. Also with the 75th anniversary of the D Day landings, Brownlow House in Lurgan is home to an interactive WW2 exhibition. As a headquarters during this period, the location hosted a large US Army contingent, with many secret operations being planned there. Admission to that exhibition is also free. Just a couple of miles from the city is a place where myth and reality meet - the Navan Centre & Fort. Step back in time 2000 years with a visit to its Iron Age dwelling, where attendees will meet the Celts who bring history to life. Find out how they survived and thrived as part of an experience filled with interactivity and hands-on delight. For further information on activities and offers visit www.visitarmagh.com. APRIL 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers KEVIN BARRY

escribed as a blend of Roddy Doyle and Nick Cave, acclaimed writer Kevin Barry was born in Limerick in 1969. According to interviews, he spent much of his youth travelling, living in 17 addresses by the time he was 36, including places in Cork, Santa Barbara, Barcelona, and Liverpool before settling in Sligo. There he purchased and renovated a run-down Royal Irish Constabulary barracks. The desire to settle down was reportedly driven primarily by Barry’s difficulty moving his large number of books from house to house. During his time in Cork, Barry worked as a freelance journalist, contributing a regular column to the Irish Examiner. Keen to become an author, he purchased a ‘Father Ted’ style caravan and parked it in a field out West in the county, spending the next six months writing what he later described as ‘a great bulk of pastiche’. Since then Barry has earned a vast amount of acclaim with novels City of Bohane (2011) and Beatlebone (2015), as well as short story collections There Are Little Kingdoms (2007) and Dark Lies the Island (2012). For his debut novel – a dystopian thriller set in West Ireland in 2053 – Barry won the International Dublin Literary Award, receiving €100,000. Lord Mayor of Dublin at the time Naoise Ó Muirí said he was "thrilled" that someone of "such immense talent’ took home the award,” calling Barry’s characters "ﬂamboyant and malevolent, speaking in a vernacular like no other." In 2015, his follow up Beatlebone – a fictionalised account of John Lennon’s time in County Mayo - won the £10,000 Goldsmith’s Prize. The award aims to reward British and Irish fiction that breaks the mould or extends the possibilities of the novel form. Barry is set to make the transition to screenwriter, with this year’s Irish film Dark Lies the Island, directed by Ian Fitzgibbon (Moone Boy, Perrier’s Bounty). Adapting one of his own short stories, it centres on a family feud in a small 50

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Irish town over the course of a week. Featuring an impressive cast of Irish stars – Charlie Murphy, Moe Dunford, Pat Shortt, Peter Coonan and Tommy Tiernan – the movie recently had its premiere at Virgin Media Dublin International Film Festival. There, festival director Grainne Humphreys described it as ‘a hallucinogenic black comedy of the darkest kind’, calling it ‘Killnaskully meets Twin Peaks’ before stating: “Once seen you will never be the same again.”