Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 62

Travelireland ireland magazine

Volume 6 Issue 62 June 2019

Cork to Host Some

Corker Concerts

Turn of the Screw Set to Terrify

Glasnevin Cemetery is Dead Interesting!

Bloomsday Pat Liddy Puts the Joy in Joyce

In the Summertime An Irish Gig Guide

Riverdance

Up Your Sliabh

Kicks Its Way into the Gaiety Shandon Street Fest Goes from Strength to Strength

Donegal’s Stunning Sea Cliffs

Kilkenny’s

Class Summer Programme

Super Stoneybatter

Dublin 7’s Fantastic Fest

Irish Pirate Queen Honoured with New Jewels

CONTENTS

4 Welcome to Leinster 6 Stoneybatter Festival 8 Glasnevin Cemetery Museum 10 Theatre 12 Bloomsday by Pat Liddy 14 Jennifer Kinnear 16 Kilkenny 18 Explore Leinster 19 DoDublin 20 Leinster Bars 21 Turn of the Screw 22 Leinster Restaurants 24 Riverdance 26 Welcome to Munster 28 Explore Munster 30 MCD Cork Gigs 32 Munster Bars 33 Munster Restaurants 34 Cobh Heritage Centre 36 Welcome to Connaught 37 Explore Connaught 38 Connaught Bars 39 Connaught Restaurants 40 Shopping 42 Shandon Street Festival 44 Welcome to Ulster 45 Ulster Restaurants 46 Ulster Bars 47 Explore Ulster 48 Sliabh Liag 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1.

Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our June issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here.

This month, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include Turn of the Screw and Riverdance at the Gaiety Theatre and the Stoneybatter Festival in Dublin; the Shandon Street Festival and the Irish Independent Park concerts in Cork; and the recent renovations at Sliabh Liag Mountain in Donegal.

We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see this month while Pat Liddy discusses the history of Bloomsday and the special tour he is offering those curious to learn more. The magazine also highlights Kilkenny’s wonderful summer programme, DoDublin tours, the iconic landmark that is Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and a jewellery designer putting an Irish spin on her work. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay.

Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Cover image © Edward Cooke Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley.

We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre.

The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions.

Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland.

Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College.

Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land.

Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum.

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula.

So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre.

Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic!

Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Super Stoneybatter Dublin 7’s Fantastic Festival June will be a busy month for the residents of Dublin’s most vibrant urban village as the Stoneybatter Festival returns for its third year from Friday, June 21 to Sunday, June 23.

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eaturing culture, food, music, sport and history along with a strong emphasis on celebrating the community in Dublin 7, over 100 events are planned for across the three days.

The festival will kick off Friday night at the Village Green (the junction of Aughrim Street and Prussia Street) at the Festival Wishing Tree. There the local St. Gabriel's National School will perform with Irish United Nations Veteran Association Pipers leading all to the local Community Centre for the opening ceremony.

Following this on Friday night is Storybatter which will see Clarks City Arms Pub on Prussia Street hosting writers Eoin Butler, Patrick Freyne and Sarah Breen. Meanwhile, over at Kavanaghs Pub, Stoneybatter Laughs will be taking place, with stand-up, impressions and sketches from comedians Gary Cooke (Apres Match) and John Colleary (The Savage Eye).

The festival will also be launching a craft beer specially brewed for the weekend. Titled ‘On the Batter’, it can be found at The Drink Store on Manor Street.

Saturday will mark Stoneybatter Festival’s Open House Day. This is where museums, galleries, local businesses and private homes will open their doors with tours, talks and heritage events. Pop into some of the interesting houses in Stoneybatter chosen for their architectural design, fabulous finishings, or historical relevance.

As part of Open House Day, attendees can see the birthplace of the poet Austin Clarke on Manor Street. Today the location is home to luthier Jim Beatley who makes cellos and

violins in his workshop there. To celebrate these two’s connection to Stoneybatter, there will be music and readings of Clarke’s poetry.

Festival-goers can experience tours of buildings such as Áras an Uachtaráin, the Central Criminal Courts, the Former Dublin Metropolitan Police Barracks, the Greek Orthodox Church, the Law Society of Ireland headquarters and Saor Ollscoil na hÉireann.

The latter was formerly the City Arms Hotel and was frequented many times by James Joyce. It is referenced several times in his seminal novel Ulysses.

There will also be tours of other landmarks.

These include the graveyard of the 1916 leaders at Arbour Hill and the Irish United Nations Veteran Association headquarters where a cup of tea will be had after.

Saturday will see the return of the Stoneybatter Slideshow in the Secret Cinema on Stable Lane. This is where filmmakers, photographers and visual magpies of Dublin 7 will present a selection of their favourite images.

Other cultural and entertainment events happening on the Saturday include Where Art Thou?, an innovative new exhibition of work

by Dublin 7 artists displayed in the windows of Manor Street’s businesses; the book launch of Stories from Stoneybatter, a collection of local residents recollections of the area; and Humans of Stoneybatter, a photo slideshow of ordinary people with extraordinary tales.

Music is to play a big part in the Stoneybatter Festival. Clarkes City Arms will take centre stage for various talent shows; jazz, rock, punk and folk gigs; and open mics.

Photographs: theirishphotographer.com Photograph: Andy Kohn

There will also be trad sessions, DJ sets and tribute act performances held across the pubs of Stoneybatter, as well as the Stoneybatter Festival Concert. The latter takes place Saturday evening in the beautiful surrounds of St. Laurence’s Church in Grangegorman.

St Brendan’s GAA club will host a range of sporting activities at TU Dublin City Campus in Grangegorman on Saturday with games for all ages including a 5-a-side soccer tournament. There will also be yoga, pilates, mindfulness and meditation classes throughout the weekend to help people unwind.

On Sunday, Stoneybatter and Manor Street will be closed to traffic. This is to facilitate an action-packed family fun day with games, music, talks, food, craft stalls, pop-up gardens and more on offer for kids.

Other highlights of the Sunday programme are the Great Batter Bake Off with Pauline McLynn (Father Ted) and

the return of the dog fancy dress contest Woofstock. Plus, a range of local food and drink businesses will come together for a sensory quiz, whiskey tastings and markets stalls offering samples of local food.

Coffee-roasting superstars Charles and Anne from Koppi Fine Coffee Roasters in Sweden will DJ on the roof of Stoneybatter cafe Love Supreme as part of the family fun day. At the same time, Walsh’s pub - recently voted Best Pub in Ireland - will stage a pop-up Gaeltacht alongside their open trad sessions all weekend.

The festival will conclude on Sunday night with after-parties in the local pubs and the annual Festival Senior Citizens Party at the Community Centre. The latter is a hooley featuring music and dancing for Stoneybatter community’s elderly.

For more information and to learn about other Stoneybatter Festival events, visit www.stoneybatterfestival.ie. www.stoneybatterfestival.ie.

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DEAD INTERESTING

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY MUSEUM & GUIDED TOURS

Hop on a bus to Glasnevin Cemetery – a seemingly unlikely place to visit but an absolute treasure trove of information about the history of Ireland.

Opened in 1832, Glasnevin is a Victorian Garden Cemetery and is Ireland’s national cemetery. Located only 2.5km from the bustling city centre, Glasnevin is a peaceful oasis in urban Dublin. The cemetery encapsulates the history of Ireland and is the burial place of over 1.6 million people including an abundance of iconic historical figures.

Arriving at Glasnevin offers visitors a wonderful surprise. Many expect a dull, morose, possibly even depressing cemetery visit. However, from the moment they arrive, it is evident that this is far from the case. The combination of architecture, iconography, the spectacular O’Connell tower, mature indigenous trees, wildlife, the beautifully manicured landscaping and sheer vastness of ornate monuments speckled over 124 acres is eye-catching and aweinspiring.

Glasnevin is a goldmine for genealogists, history buffs and anyone with an interest in Irish history.There are more people ‘at rest’ in Glasnevin than there are living residents in the whole of Dublin City.

Ireland’s vast and fascinating history is dissected via immensely enjoyable historical anecdotes by knowledgeable and charming guides. They will take you on a journey to visit the graves of Ireland’s heroes such as Michael Collins, Eamon De Valera, Daniel O’Connell, Maud Gonne, Countess Markievicz, to name only a few.

One of Glasnevin’s wonderful guides, Bridget Sheerin really enjoys watching visitors spotting names similar to their own. She says: “There is a sudden sense of mystery, wondering if they are related. There is an immediate connection, something familiar, even a sense of a possible belonging”. Each burial

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record has been digitized and information is available online or through resident genealogist, Lynn Brady. That’s over 1.6 million names.

Glasnevin offers a window into Irish history. The tours are filled with wry stories that bring it to life. Include a trip to the museum afterwards and it’s clear that to leave Dublin without visiting Glasnevin would be a grave mistake.

The cemetery’s founder, legendary Irish statesman Daniel O’Connell is buried beneath the spectacular O’Connell tower, the tallest of its kind in Ireland, standing at 168ft. O’Connell’s crypt is particularly beautiful. He rests in a lead-lined coffin in a tomb capped by a slab of stunning

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Glasnevin offers a window into Irish history.The tours are filled with wry stories that bring it to life

Kilkenny marble. Inscriptions around the ornate walls designed in the Celtic Romantic fashion were influenced by designs from the Book of Kells and include O’Connell’s final words: “My body to Ireland, my soul to heaven and my heart to Rome”.

Following a bombing in 1971, the tower has been restored to its former glory and is now accessible to visitors. Climb the 198 steps to breath-taking views of Dublin, Wicklow and the Irish Sea.

Glasnevin is a not for profit organization.

All proceeds are redirected to the restoration of the cemetery. The mission today remains as it was handed from Daniel O’Connell. This is “to bury people of all religions and none”, to preserve and honour the heritage of past generations, serve and respect the needs of the present generation and provide a legacy for future generations.

Since the museum opened in 2010, Glasnevin has won a multitude of awards.

It is proudly listed as a Top Attraction on TripAdvisor, highlighting the landmark as a cemetery of historic importance. This is something that people might not expect of a cemetery, but it is a testament to the pride and integrity held by those who work there and those who visit.

DAILY GUIDED TOURS The General History Tour visits the gravesides of the inspirational figures that shaped the Ireland we know today. This tour runs at 11:30am and 2:30pm daily, with additional tours taking place during the summer months.

The Dead Interesting Tour offers an alternative view of the varied heritage that Ireland's largest cemetery holds and the history within its walls. Learn of its sculpture, symbolism, architecture, sporting heroes, natural life and the lesser known stories of extraordinary lives and extraordinary events.This tour runs at the weekends and on Bank Holiday Mondays at 1:00pm.

From April to September, opening hours for Glasnevin Cemetery are 10am – 6pm.

From October to March, they are 10am – 5pm. For more information visit www.glasnevinmuseum.ie or call +353 (0)1 882 6550.

Meanwhile, for group bookings email booking@glasnevintrust.ie.

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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre

Brothers of the Brush by Jimmy Murphy

25 years since the original production of this classic, Brothers of the Brush returns. Set just at the dawn of the Celtic Tiger, it tells the story of three house painters, making a meagre living, overseen by an arrogant and shifty boss who is running a small business.

Dates: Jun 22 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: Don’t Throw Out Your Fat Pants Jun 25.

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre The Girl on the Train

Adapted from Paula Hawkins’ novel – an international phenomenon selling over twenty million copies worldwide – EastEnders’ Samantha Womack stars as Rachel Watson, someone longing for a different life. Her only escape is the perfect couple she watches through the train window every day, happy and in love.

Or so it appears. When Rachel learns that the woman she’s been secretly watching has suddenly disappeared, she finds herself as a witness and even a suspect in a thrilling mystery in which she will face bigger revelations than she could ever have anticipated.

chorus of voices, Dylan Coburn Gray’s Verity Bargate Award-winning work centres on three generations of a Dublin family on one day.

Featuring teen discos, late night taxis, home nurses, Jewish launderettes, vigilantes, babies, immigrants and seagulls, the Abbey describe it as ‘intimate and sweeping, cerebral and compassionate, joyous and ridiculous.’

The Gaiety Theatre Turn of the Screw

Dates: May 25 – Jun 8 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey this month: The Unmanageable Sisters Jun 14 – Aug 3, Two Pints Jun 24 – Aug 10.

The Gate Theatre

The Snapper by Roddy Doyle

Based on Roddy Doyle’s classic novel and the second entry in his acclaimed Barrytown Trilogy of books, The Snapper revolves around the unmarried Sharon Rabbitte's pregnancy, and the unexpected effects this has on her conservative, working-class Dublin family. Veteran actor Simon Delaney stars as Sharon’s father Jimmy Snr – a role previously made famous onscreen by Colm Meaney in The Commitments.

Dates: Jun 6 – Aug 3 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie

The Olympia Theatre

A Conversation with Bob Woodward

A new adaptation of Henry James’ iconic tale, in 1840, a young governess agrees to look after two orphaned children in Bly, a seemingly idyllic country house. But shortly after her arrival, she realises that they are not alone. There are others – the ghosts of Bly’s troubled past.

The Governess will risk everything to keep the children safe, even if it means giving herself up to The Others. Years later, confronted by the past she is compelled to account for what actually happened to her and the innocents under her protection.

Dates: Jun 4 - 8 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at the Gaiety this month: Riverdance 2019 Jun 11 – Sep 15.

Smock Alley Theatre

My Heart and I: The Life and Loves of Josef Locke

Dates: Jun 3 - 8 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gáis this month: Fame: The Musical Jun 18 – 22, Dirty Dancing Jun 24 – 29.

The Abbey Theatre

Citysong by Dylan Coburn Gray

One of the two journalists who broke the infamous Watergate Scandal and author of the book Fear: Trump in the White House, Bob Woodward will give a live talk for one night only in Dublin. Moderated by Fintan O’Toole, the two will discuss the state of the US Presidency.

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Dates: Jun 10 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

A romp through the life and loves of Irish tenor Josef Locke, this two-man show brings you the fellow artists, agents and marriage partners of this working-class hero. The singer’s extraordinary voice soared over the bustle of showbiz wheeling and dealing as he clambered to the top of his profession, no matter what.

Dates: Jun 10 - 15 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com Also at Smock Alley this month: Edinburgh Previews Jun 16 – 22, Below Below Jun 25 - 29.

Bloomsday

By Pat Liddy

There is one unique day celebrated in Dublin every year that has no real comparison anywhere else in the world.

That day is known as Bloomsday and falls on June 16.

Hundreds of people, maybe even a few thousand, stroll the streets of the city literally following in the footsteps of the stories contained in the pages of one of the most renowned books ever written; Ulysses by James Joyce.

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The iconic book is precisely set on June 16, 1904 across a period of approximately 18 hours. So, fans of the novel, many wearing the dress, costumes and headgear of that Edwardian period, follow the journeys of the main characters and visit the places associated with Joyce or closely described in Ulysses. It’s a rather dazzling and special day of times past that seems to flawlessly integrate into the normal activities of the city as it goes about its modern-day business.

James Joyce was born in Dublin in 1882, the eldest of ten surviving children. His father managed to squander a substantial legacy and the family soon struggled moving from house to poorer house as their income declined. All these moves actually helped James Joyce to discover every nook and corner of the city that would prove so valuable to him later on.

Joyce was furnished with an excellent education by the Jesuits and he then went onto university. You can see Belvedere College, which he attended from 1893 to 1898. It’s still a secondary school situated on Great Denmark Street, just a stone’s throw from O’Connell Street. Newman College, where he received his degree in modern languages, is on the south side of St Stephen’s Green.

Joyce was a brilliant student and mastered Italian, French, German, Latin and taught himself Norwegian so he could read Henrik Ibsen.

He had a brilliant memory and could recite whole pages of prose from memory.

Joyce found both the Roman Catholic religion and the so-called Celtic Revival literature of Yeats and others to his distaste. He resolved to leave Ireland but before doing so he wooed and captured the affections of Galway woman, Nora Barnacle. He first dated her on June 16, 1904, the date he selected for the action of his greatest novel. Soon after, Joyce and Nora eloped to live in Pula, Trieste, Zurich, Paris and finally back to Zurich again when the Nazis occupied Paris. Joyce died from a perforated ulcer in 1941 at the age of 59 and is buried in Fluntern Cemetery in Zurich.

Joyce’s best-remembered works are Dubliners (1914), Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man (1916), Finnegan’s Wake (published 1939 and indecipherable to most!) and the universally acclaimed Ulysses (1922). An accompanying ‘guide’ book would be useful when first reading it. Dublin has changed and grown enormously since Joyce departed in 1904 but many of the places he knew and mentioned in his novels are still there. Trinity College, the Ha’penny Bridge, the National Library, St George’s Church, Westland Row Railway Station, Glasnevin Cemetery and even the Martello Tower in Sandycove where the novel opens with the glorious words: Stately, plump Buck Mulligan came from the stairhead, bearing a bowl of lather on which a mirror and a razor lay crossed. A yellow dressing gown, ungirdled, was sustained gently behind him by the mild morning air. He held the bowl aloft and intoned: -- Introibo ad altare Dei. The rest is literary history!

Gone, however, are the Turkish Baths, Number 7 Eccles Street (the home of Leopold Bloom - but a plaque designates the site on a hospital wall), The Freeman’s Journal (where Bloom worked) and Nighttown, the notorious brothel area off Talbot Street where, today, one of the streets in this newly developed quarter is appropriately named James Joyce Street!

But still there and trading as it always has, is the bar of Davy Byrne on Duke Street where Bloom stopped to have lunch of a Gorgonzola cheese sandwich and a glass of red Burgundy wine. This is the main terminus of Bloomsday aficionados who are more likely to be quaffing beer than wine and pour out onto the street in their hundreds, gaily dressed and noisy as a

turkey farm. It’s a must-stop for Joycean fans, even outside of Bloomsday.

There are four places in and around Dublin which Joycean fans must visit. The Dublin Writers Museum on Parnell Square (www. visitdublin.com/see-do/details/dublinwriters-museum), the Joyce Centre on North Great George’s Street (jamesjoyce.ie), Sweny’s Pharmacy on Lincoln Place (www.sweny.ie) and the Joyce Museum in the Martello Tower in Sandycove (jamesjoycetower.com). There is a statue to Joyce on North Earl Street close to the corner with O’Connell Street.

If you are lucky enough to be around you too can participate in the genteel frolics of June 16 or even follow in the shadows of Ulysses on any

day of your choosing but maybe not in costume or you might attract glances of bemused curiosity. You can join the author of this article or one of his entertaining guides on Bloomsday for the celebrated annual guided walking tour.

Ideal for those interested in a first introduction to James Joyce it will celebrate his life by walking through the streets of Dublin partly following Leopold Bloom along his famous wanderings. Tours depart at 10.30 am or 2.30 pm from outside the Gate Theatre, Cavendish Row (off the top-end of O’Connell Street).

Cost is €14 each (seniors/ students €12). You can turn up on the day or book through www.walkingtours.ie.

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IRISH TREASURERS

New Jewellery Collection Honours Pirate Queen Irish jewellery designer Jennife Jennifer f r Kinnear dra fe draws raw ra aws on the spirit of o a fierc r e and fe rc ffearless arless 16th-century pira r te queen in her new ra fierce pirate collection for 2019: Granuaile - the Irish Sea Queen.

Granuaile lived from 1530 to 1603. At 16, she was forced into a marriage of convenience with Dónal an Chogaidh, the wealthy heir of a neighbouring clan.They had three children together.When an Chogaidh was killed in battle, Granuaile inherited his castle and raised the children on her own. Her father was Chieftain of the Ó Mháille clan and upon his death, she took over his title along with his ships and sailors. Feisty and fearless, Granuaile commanded respect and loyalty from her men.

Now a powerful pirate queen, Granuaile increased her wealth by demanding taxes and goods from ships sailing around Ireland, Scotland and even the dangerous waters of Spain. Ever the tactician, she then married Risdeárd an Iarainn, the 18th Lord of Mac William Lochtar, but soon divorced him under Brehon law. She seized his property.Yet, despite kicking him out of his castle, Granuaile used her wile and cunning to remain allies with an Iarainn.

By the late 1500s, as England sought increasing power over Ireland, relationships between the English aristocracy and the rebellious Granuaile had soured. Lord Richard Bingham killed her eldest son and imprisoned the other two.The Irish sea queen sailed up the Thames and demanded a meeting with Queen Elizabeth. By the fireside, Grainne worked her charms on Elizabeth, another powerful woman. Ultimately, she secured her two sons’ release and lived out her days on the sea privateering and pirating without interference.

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Kinnear imaginatively tells Granuaile’s story through beautifully crafted gold and silver pendants, rings and earrings. The collection includes a compass, ship wheel and star pendant necklace; an octopus tentacle necklace and earrings; a medallion necklace depicting Granuaile and Queen Elizabeth’s famous fireside encounter; large stone rings set with citrine that look as if they were forged in the 15th century; and pearl and bow necklaces, earrings and bracelets based on treasure the pirate queen may have found along her travels.

Well known in the fashion industry for creating eye-catching, must-have accessories for every budget, Kinnear speaking about her collection says: “My work has always been inspired by the sea and I grew up sailing boats in Ireland, so this collection is a perfect fit for me.To this day, many women continue to show courage and defiance against all the odds, just like Granuaile. I love her and I think you will too.”

Kinnear’s work is stocked in jewellers across Ireland including The Jewellery Collective in Dublin and can also be purchased online at jenniferkinnear.com. Prices for her latest collection start at €75/350.

For more information, contact Kinnear via email at jk@jenniferkinnear.com or phone 0034679281537 or 00353872485717.

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Reasons to Visit

Kilkenny This Summer

From comedy to history and music to adventure, there’s something for everybody in Kilkenny this summer. Have a gander below at some of the county’s amazing events and activities on offer.

Cat Laughs Comedy Festival: 30 May – 3 June 2019 The annual Cat Laughs Comedy Festival returns to Kilkenny City for the June Bank Holiday weekend with a huge line-up. Now in its 25th year, the festival is one of the most popular and well attended in Ireland. Tommy Tiernan, Dara O Briain, Alison Spittle and Jason Byrne are among Ireland’s top comedians set to fill venues with lots of laughs and giggles. Ticket choices include ‘The Weekender’ for €195, ‘The Saturday and Sunday Ticket’ for €126 and ‘The Birthday Ticket’ for €70. www.thecatlaughs.com Kilkenny Country Music Festival: 14 July 2019 The idyllic grounds of Gowran Park will become home to the Kilkenny Country Music Festival taking place on Sunday, July 14. Taking the stage at this year’s festival are country music sensations Mike Denver, Patrick Feeney, Trudi Lalor, Michael English, Jimmy Buckley and Cliona Hagan along with The Conquerors as backing band for the day.

There’s something for everyone with activities for the kids, state of the art facilities, giant dancefloor for dancing and onsite bars and restaurants. For a day of fun, music and dance with some of the best Country musicians in Ireland, Gowran Park this July is the place to be. Tickets are €25. www.kilkennycountrymusicfestival.ie

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Kilkenny Outdoor Music Festival: 3 – 4 August 2019 Heading into its fourth year, the Kilkenny Outdoor Music Festival returns to Castlecomer this summer

with Erin’s Own GAA Club Grounds and The Avalon House Hotel playing host to top Irish acts Hudson Taylor, Paddy Casey, The Frank and Walters, The Alkove and DJ Welshy across August 3 – 4. Saturday tickets are €30 and weekend tickets are €40 (no Sunday only tickets). www.kilkennymusicfest.com Kilkenny Arts Festival: 8 – 18 August 2019 The 46th Kilkenny Arts Festival returns this summer from August 8 – 18. The ten-day festival welcomes the best of Irish and international music, literature art and theatre. It is one of the leading festivals in Ireland, celebrated for its effortless blend of tradition and innovation, and for its electrifying range of events. Various venues across the city will play host to Ivor Novello Award-winning and Grammy Award-nominated legend, Richard Thompson; prodigiously gifted Ukrainian pianist, Alexander Gavryluk; and distinguished RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra conductor and baroque singer, Nathalie Stutzmann to name a few.

The full 2019 programme will be announced in June. www.kilkennyarts.ie Castlecomer Discovery Park With over 80 acres of woodland and lakeside to explore, Castlecomer Discovery Park is the perfect place to experience nature, get fit and enjoy the great outdoors. Open daily this June and July from 11am – 3pm, there are lots of outdoor activities to enjoy such as the tree top walk and climbing wall, zipline, canoeing, archery, orienteering, raft and

catapult building and axe throwing. The fun isn’t just for the adults – kids can enjoy the timber tumbles playground, junior woodland course and the elf and fairy village. When you have worked up an appetite, grab a bite at The Redwood Café or The Canopy Café (open daily from 10am during the summer months). www.discoverypark.ie Dunmore Cave Leave the daylight behind and descend the steep steps down the grassy bank into Dunmore Cave. The cave, consisting of a series of chambers formed over millions of years, opens daily from 9:30am – 6pm (last admission 5pm) this June, July and August. Sitting in the tea room on a summer’s day, re-warming your hands around a drink after climbing back up the steps into the daylight, you sense that even in the darkest places there is magic and light. Access is by guided tour only with a maximum of 40-50 people and lasting one hour. Admission is €5 for adults and €3 for children/students. www.heritageireland.ie/en/south-east/dunmorecave/ Ireland’s Medieval Mile From the magnificent Castle to the enchanting Canice’s Cathedral and everything in between – explore the hidden gems that Ireland’s Medieval Mile has to offer. Stepping through the centuries, you’ll see historic buildings, streets, and slipways. Climb the 9th century St. Canice’s Tower (only one of 2 round towers you can climb in the country) and take a glimpse inside the lives of the Butler family and their servants at Kilkenny Castle. Or feel the hairs rise (and your heartbeat) at tales of witchcraft in Kyteler’s Inn, here since 1324. Visit as many of the top attractions in Kilkenny City as you can, in one day, with your Medieval Mile Pass – only €39 for over €100 worth of entries and offers. The Medieval Mile Museum opens daily from 10am – 6pm from April to October. www.medievalmilemuseum.ie

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Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk.

Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site.

Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages.

Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world.

Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm.

Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm.

Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit.

Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance.

Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions.

Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant!

Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

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DoDublin See the Dublin You Know and the Dublin You Don’t

DoDublin offers the ultimate Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin and is the ideal way to view the city.

Dubliners born and raised, the DoDublin guides possess both the wit and charm of Irish storytellers and an unrivalled knowledge of Dublin. The latter has been nurtured through years of growing up and living life in Ireland’s biggest city but more importantly by driving its buses around an ever-changing town.

That’s right, all DoDublin guides are Dublin Bus drivers. They have spent their careers being dedicated proud hosts of the city. For this reason, you can be sure of the fact no-one knows the capital quite like them.

What does the local recommend? DoDublin guides love all the major attractions. They are especially proud that such world-famous landmarks as St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Guinness Storehouse, and Kilmainham Gaol are just a stone’s throw from where they played as children.

Hop on a green DoDublin tour bus and learn the great stories that helped the capital evolve into the city it is today. Then, hop off and explore attractions you’ve wanted to see for years from Dublin Zoo to the National Museums or new sights like The Vaults Live off Thomas Street.

DoDublin’s guides have their own personal favourites though. These are places just off the beaten track and easy to miss. The tour guides are only too happy to share these spots with visitors to the city, making for a more authentic personalised tour.

When in the Guinness Storehouse, before you hop back on the bus, don’t forget that you are in the Liberties, one of the beating hearts of the city.

There are so many experiences in this part of town.

It is an area that should be enjoyed by all visitors.

If you are lucky, at one end of the cultural

quarter Temple Bar, the Designer Mart on Cow’s Lane will be in full swing. After you have had a browse through the pretty jewellery, art and craft items on sale, learn about the history of this unique part of Dublin city centre.

Meanwhile, it’s often forgotten that the capital has a plentiful supply of parklands and walking trails on its doorstep. Not far from the heart of the city, you can meander the leafy trail running alongside the Royal Canal.

Near Stop 2 on the DoDublin Tour, you will find Hardwicke Place. It’s worth paying a visit to St. George's Church, which was modelled on St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, near Trafalgar Square in London. The church is somewhat quirky in the Dublin landscape. It’s perceived as being built incorrectly, as it is wider than it is longer.

Another site that is really an oddity in Dublin is St. Michan’s Church - located not too far from the Jameson Distillery Bow Street (Stop 31 on the DoDublin Tour). Underneath the church, which dates back to 1095, are five long burial vaults containing the mummified remains of many of Dublin's most influential 17th, 18th and 19th century families.

Due to limestone in the walls, this spooky underground space is home to the well-preserved remains of a 400-year-old nun, the Sheares Brothers - who took part in the 1798 rebellion - as well as various other Irish figures. The crypts are completely accessible. If you dare, you can reach out and touch the bodies’ fingers or even shake their hands delicately. What about that for something different?

With every Hop-On Hop-Off ticket, you will get free entry to the Little Museum of Dublin at

St. Stephen’s Green worth €10. It’s one of the top museums in Ireland, featuring fantastic storytellers and thousands of Dublin related exhibits dotted through the museum.

You will also get a free walking tour worth €14 with Travel Ireland’s own Pat Liddy, one of the best walking tour guides in the business. As evident from his monthly column for this magazine, he is a true blue Dub who knows the city better than anyone.

Kids go free (two kids under 14 with each adult). For more information, visit DoDublin’s website at dodublin.ie JUNE 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street.

9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is

ǧ

definitely the place to be. ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂ­nĂ­ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn O’Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.

the celt

Grogan’s

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

15 S William St., Dublin 2.

Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pim’s

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The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre.

They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local beers such as 5 Lamps and craft beers such as Sierra Nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list.

Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week.

The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2, D02 NR59 Phone: (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

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One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy.

Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards.

88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1.

01 828 0028

Turn of the Screw to Terrify Irish Audiences

Photography: Tom Grace

H

enry James’ classic ghost story Turn of the Screw is coming to the Gaiety Theatre in the form of a new stage adaptation from June 4 - 8.

Set in 1840, a young governess agrees to look after two orphaned children in Bly, a seemingly idyllic country house. However, shortly after her arrival, she realises they are not alone. There are others – the ghosts of Bly’s troubled past.

The Governess will risk everything to keep the children safe, even if it means giving herself up to The Others. Years later, confronted by the past she is compelled to account for what actually happened to her and the innocents under her protection.

First written in 1898, the novella is considered a classic of both gothic fiction and horror and has been continually adapted in other mediums even a century after its publication.

These have included a 1950

Broadway play, the 1961 film The Innocents, as well as the upcoming Steven Spielberg produced film The Turning and the second season of Netflix smash hit series The Haunting of Hill House.

This new adaptation of the iconic tale stars Janet Dibley (Doctors, EastEnders, The Two of Us) and Maggie McCarthy (Dancing on the Edge, Call the Midwife). The Gaiety call it: “A masterclass in stage-craft, with captivating performances, deliciously atmospheric sets and lighting design and an evocative soundtrack.”

Reviewers seem to agree. Turn of the Screw earned a five-star rave from Theatre News who called it “impressively seamless…sophisticated…thoughtprovoking,” while The Stage called it ‘intelligent’ and ‘insightful’.

Tickets are on sale now. They cost from €21. For information about Turn of the Screw at the Gaiety, visit the theatre’s website at www.gaietytheatre.ie.

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list.

12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep.

Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you.

The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes.

It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks.

22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

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Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

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Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture.

The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts.

Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine.

Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4.

Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’.

ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers.

Perfect for the festive season or any events.

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal.

All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie JUNE 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Irish Trad Classic to Kick Off at the Gaiety Riverdance will kick its way into the Gaiety Theatre from June 11 to September 15.

A

theatrical show consisting mainly of traditional Irish music and dance, Riverdance originated as an interval performance act during the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest, composed by Bill Whelan and featuring Irish dancing champions Jean Butler, Michael Flatley and the vocal ensemble Anúna. Transmitted to an estimated 300 million viewers worldwide, it became immediately iconic – earning a standing ovation and going down in history as one of Eurovision’s most famed moments.

The song from the performance titled "Riverdance" was then released as a single featuring Anúna and the RTÉ Concert Orchestra. It entered the Irish Singles Chart at No. 1, staying there for 18 weeks. This is the longest amount of time a song has ever topped the Irish chart and is currently the second highest-selling single of all time domestically, behind only Elton John's 1997 double A-side "Candle in the Wind 1997"/"Something About the Way You Look Tonight".

After witnessing the enthusiasm for

Riverdance in Ireland, husband and wife production team John McColgan and Moya Doherty decided to invest over $1 million into producing a full-length touring theatrical show. Opening in Dublin in 1995, since then Riverdance has been performed over 11,500 times to a live audience of over 25 million people in 515 venues worldwide, throughout 47 countries across 6 continents.

Tickets for the Gaiety Theatre run of Riverdance are on sale now. They can be purchased in person at the Gaiety Box Office or online at www. ticketmaster.ie/Riverdance. They cost between €21 and €71, while a family ticket for four can be purchased for €128.

Riverdance will also return to the INEC Killarney in Co. Kerry from September 18 - 22.

Tickets for these performances cost between €26.90 and €44.

More information can be found at www.inec.ie/riverdance/.

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Persian Cuisine

14-15 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 1 - 01 677 3595 44/45 Lr Camden St., Dublin 2 - 01 400 5006 Delivery Number 01 4005700

Established in January 2000 Zaytoon restaurants have two branches in 14/15 Parliament street and 44/45 lower Camden street.

They are casual diners offering delicious kebabs served with freshly made naan bread which is cooked in a traditional Persian clay oven. Often referred to as having the best kebabs in Ireland.

Here at Zaytoon we pride ourselves on sourcing and providing the highest quality products. All our meat and poultry are Irish and fully traceable.

By day Zaytoon is full of tourists and business people, by night it’s packed to the gills with midnight revellers jostling to get one of our famous kebabs!

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture.

From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

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you would expect from a truly Irish experience.

The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art.

One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry.

When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again.

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

An Unmissable Experience!

Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration.

Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania.

Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland.

Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08

Putting the Cork in Corker of a Concert Cork’s Irish Independent Park, also known as Musgrave Park, will become a hub for live music for a week in June.

Both Irish and international stars are set to grace the venue with their presence from June 20 – 26. The first day will see English singer, songwriter and guitarist George Ezra headline. Best known for smash hit singles ‘Budapest’ and last year’s ‘Shotgun’, in February 2019 he picked up a Brit Award for British Male Solo Artist.

The following day – June 21 – will see Irish four-piece Walking on Cars take to the park stage. Acclaimed in Ireland for their brand of indie pop, in April of this year they released their highly anticipated sophomore album Colours to positive reviews. The release followed their 2016 number one Irish record Everything this Way. Walking on Cars will be joined for the gig by Lewis Capaldi and Tom Walker.

Earlier this year, Capaldi scored a UK number one single with ‘Someone You Loved’ and released his debut album Divinely Uninspired to a Hellish Extent.

Meanwhile, Walker won the Best Breakthrough Act at the 2019 Brit Awards.

Another homegrown band is set to headline. Fronted by Danny O’Reilly, son of Irish music royalty Mary Black, Dublin rockers The Coronas will be performing June 22. Breaking onto the scene in 2007 with their debut record Heroes or Ghosts – featuring classic tracks like ‘Grace, Don’t Wait!’ and ‘San Diego Song’, the band have gone from strength to strength.

Their follow up Tony Was an Ex-Con won Best Album at the 2010 Meteor Awards, beating LPs from the likes of U2, Bell X1 and Snow Patrol. No strangers to huge crowds, The Coronas have supported Paul McCartney and Justin Timberlake. Their fifth and most recent record Trust the Wire earned a top spot on the Irish album charts. They will be supported at Irish Independent Park by Norwegian singer and BBC Music Sound of 2018 winner Sigrid.

June 23 will see legend of modern

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rock and roll Liam Gallagher take to the Cork stage. The singer found acclaim with British band Oasis, founded with his brother Noel. Together they recorded legendary records such as Definitely Maybe and (What’s the Story) Morning Glory?

With an arsenal of classic tunes under

their belt – like ‘Champagne Supernova’, ‘Cigarettes & Alcohol’, ‘Don’t Look Back in Anger’, ‘Lyla’, ‘Roll With It’, ‘Supersonic’, ‘The Hindu Times’, ‘The Importance of Being Idle and of course ‘Wonderwall’ – Oasis disbanded in 2009. Since then Liam Gallagher has found further success with follow-up band Beady Eye and as a solo artist.

In 2017, Liam Gallagher released As You Were.

His debut as a solo musician, it reached number one in the UK, outselling the rest of the top 10 of the UK Albums Chart combined and achieving gold certification in its first week.

It has since been certified platinum. He will be backed at Irish Independent Park by fellow indie rocker Gerry Cinnamon.

On June 25, Irish musician, singer, and songwriter Hozier will headline. In 2013, he released his debut breakout single ‘Take Me to Church’, which went multi-platinum in several countries, including the US, the UK, and Canada.

His self-titled debut studio album, released in 2014, topped the chart in Ireland and scored top ten positions globally. He followed this up with acclaimed EP Nina Cried Power in 2018 and his sophomore record Wasteland, Baby! in March 2019. The latter debuted atop the US Billboard 200. He will be joined in Cork by American singer-songwriter Maggie Rogers.

Last but certainly not least to play Irish Independent Park is American singer, songwriter and rapper Lauryn Hill on June 26.

Raised in New Jersey, Hill found acclaim as part of Grammy award winning 90s band Fugees.

Renowned for their blend of hip hop, soul and Caribbean sounds, the group also featured well-known artist Wyclef Jean.

Known around the world for hit singles like ‘Killing Me Softly’, the Fugees split in 1997. Hill returned in 1998 with her first and only solo record to date The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill.

It received critical acclaim for its contemporary take on the soul genre.

The record debuted at number one on the U.S. Billboard 200 and has sold over eight million copies there. This included the singles "Doo Wop (That Thing)", "Ex-Factor" and "Everything Is Everything". At the 41st Grammys, the album earned her five awards, including Album of the Year.

During this time, she won several other prizes and became a common sight on the cover of magazines. However, soon afterward, Hill dropped out of the public eye, dissatisfied with the music industry – making her Cork gig a rare chance to see the legend in the flesh.

● Thurs, 20 June: George Ezra ● Friday, 21 June: Walking On Cars w/ Lewis Capaldi & Tom Walker ● Saturday, 22 June: The Coronas w/ Sigrid ● Sunday, 23 June: Liam Gallagher w/ Gerry Cinnamon ● Tuesday, 25 June: Hozier w/ Maggie Rogers ● Wednesday 26 June: Lauryn Hill

Photograph: Edward Cooke

For the full list of dates for the Irish Independent Park concerts, see below.

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Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Dick Mack’s

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day.

93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town.

The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics.

Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more!

62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.

Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience.

The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City.

Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The Castle's Award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide, and holder of two AA Rosettes. Under the direction of the Resort’s Head Chef Tom Spruce, the award winning culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience.

The restaurants original oak panelled walls, ornate ceilings, dramatic portraits and painted scenes creates an atmospheric backdrop to an exquisite dining experience, perfectly complemented by a comprehensive wine cellar.

Visit our Fitzgerald Bar which houses the finest Irish whiskey collection. Located just ten minutes from Waterford City, and ninety minutes from Dublin and Cork airport, Waterford Castle Resort is a destination not to be missed.

Voted #5 of the Ten Best Hotels in Ireland 2018 by Condé Nast Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Luxury Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island |Waterford | Ireland w. www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant t. +353 (0) 51 878 203

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits.

The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes.

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford.

Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017.

47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland.

Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie JUNE 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

T

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story.

The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia.

The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork.

The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

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1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected.

The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea.

Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese.

It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking.

“Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim.

Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all.

Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors.

There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe.

Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

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Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife.

8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540 38

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Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017.

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles.

Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu.

You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Courtville – Matthew Weldon

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience.

The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination.

They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.

www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.

64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 40

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Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 01-6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear.

They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations.

27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands.

53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2.

35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.

Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years.

They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat!

They specialise in a wide range of jewellery.

From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please.

38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists.

Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more.

Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland.

There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design.

29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories.

Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce.

6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock.

James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online.

119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.

Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland.

Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland.

They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com JUNE 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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t e e r t S n o d Shan

l a v i t FGoeessFrenogmthStrength to Str

S

handon Street Festival will welcome everyone to the area of Cork City on Saturday June 22 from 1pm – 6pm to celebrate their great community.

This is the 13th year of the festival, having gone from strength to strength since its foundation. It’s a free family fun day which takes place on and around Church Street in the shadow of the Shandon Bells.

This year the festival is packed with family friendly activities. These include street entertainment, magic shows, cake decorating events, balloon modellers and sand art workshops.

Not only is there a puppet show, but children can also take part in a drumming workshop.

Wonderworld Productions will also provide family entertainment with dancing, games and audience participation events.

Soccer mad under 10s are encouraged to take part in the 5-a-side soccer tournament. This will take place in St. Anne’s Park along with a whole host of other activities like hula hooping and rope-skipping for all age groups.

Those fond of music will be in their element.

They can enjoy the sounds of Muddy Lee and the Shandon Shawlies, as well as The Laughing Shamrocks. There will also be a selection of choirs who will perform in Shandon itself. Meanwhile, you can also dance along to the Ceili All Stars.

Foodies can savour delicious treats and snacks at a wide range of food stalls. Everything from sweet donuts, crepes, ice-cream, candy floss, cakes to savory sausages and kebabs will be on offer.

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Amateur photographers are also asked to get involved. They can do this by taking photographs and posting them to the Shandon Street Festival 2019 Facebook page, as well as their Twitter account found with the handle @shandonstfest.

For more information about this year’s Shandon Street Festival, visit its website at www.shandonstreetfestival.com

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.

The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak.

The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014.

Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace!

Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore.

Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 46

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast.

Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there.

In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore.

You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal.

Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

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Photographs: Paul McGuckin

DONEGAL’S STUNNING SEA CLIFFS A signature point along the Wild Atlantic Way in Donegal, Sliabh Liag mountain boasts the highest accessible coastline cliffs of Europe. Reaching almost 2,000 feet, they are almost three times taller than the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare.

Offering dazzling panoramic views across Donegal Bay, Sliabh Liag currently attracts in excess of 160,000 visitors per year. That number looks set to increase, however, with the completion of major works by Donegal County Council and Fáilte Ireland.

Costing €4.95m, the Sliabh Liag Strategic Development Project was officially opened last month. The money was used to build a ranger station with car park and toilet facilities, make road improvements from Carrick village where the mountain is located, renovate Sliabh Liag’s visitor centre and install 2.5km of new mountain path.

Now within the visitor’s centre, which includes a cafe and seating area, there are interactive activities available for younger visitors. Titled ‘On the Edge’, these new ‘interpretation panels’ feature artistic illustrations which animate stories surrounding the mountain. They will also provide essential information regarding Sliabh Liag’s routes, as well as safety advice

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for navigating the sublime landmark.

For the 2.5km of new path, each stone was hand picked and sourced locally from another part of Sliabh Liag, the mountain’s scree slopes. This enabled the new walkway to maintain a natural look. Stones were lifted via helicopter with the path now creating a single, defined route through some difficult and steep sections of the mountain.

Speaking in advance of the official opening which took place on May 13 in the new visitor centre, Minister Joe McHugh TD said “There’s no match for a place like Sliabh Liag, sitting right on the edge of Donegal’s Gaeltacht. We have a huge opportunity to grow the spectacular location to become a major flagship tourism project for the county.”

“Sliabh Liag continues to attract growing numbers of visitors. This investment will assist greatly with onsite management and also the protection of the mountain

through the new path having regard to the increased footfall.”

“Providing these essential facilities will undoubtedly enhance the visitors' experience at Sliabh Liag. It will also enable the local community to avail of the potential that exists, while at the same time protecting and preserving the unique landscape and culture of the area that makes Sliabh Liag such a special place.”

Donegal County Council in association with Donegal Tourism has developed a website and social media presence for Sliabh Liag.

Cathaoirleach of Donegal County Council, Cllr. Seamus O’Domhnaill believes all these developments will create jobs locally and stimulate local investment.

Speaking on the matter, O’Domhnaill said: “The Sliabh Liag Strategic Development Project represents a substantial investment in what is one of the most iconic visitor destinations in Donegal. This is about

UP YOUR SLIABH

delivering quality tourism development by enhancing a sustainable tourism product and raising awareness worldwide of the brand that is available here.”

Speaking about their €2.3 million investment in the visitor centre, Fiona Monaghan, Head of Activities at Fáilte Ireland, said: “A signature discovery point along the Wild Atlantic Way, Sliabh Liag is a key attraction for Donegal and one that supports Fáilte Ireland’s ambition to put Ireland on the ‘outdoor tourism destination’ map.”

“We are committed to building on the success of the Wild Atlantic Way. Investment in projects like this ensures that we can provide an unparalleled visitor experience and encourage visitors to explore lesser travelled parts of the West Coast. This, in turn, drives job creation and revenue growth in local areas.”

For more information about Sliabh Liag, visit the mountain’s website at www.sliabhliag.com.

“

“Sliabh Liag continues to attract growing numbers of visitors.This investment will assist greatly with onsite management and also the protection of the mountain through the new path having regard to the increased footfall.”

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Great Irish Writers JAMES JOYCE

I

t's no exaggeration to say that James Joyce is one of the most influential writers that the English language has ever known. His novels, including Finnegan’s Wake and Ulysses, have enthralled and perplexed the public in equal measure since they were first published in the early part of the last century. That scholars still pour over them and Bloomsday is celebrated every June 16 in Dublin to this day is testament to his lasting legacy.

Joyce was born on February 2, 1882 at 41 Brighton Square in the Dublin suburb of Rathgar. He initially lived in Bray in County Wicklow and was educated in Clongowes Wood School in Kildare but when his family fell on hard times, mainly due to his father’s problems with alcohol, they relocated to the North Inner City of Dublin and Joyce completed his education at Belvedere College.

After studying modern languages at University College in Dublin, Joyce left for Paris to study medicine in 1902. He was recalled to Dublin a year later by his father when his mother was taken ill. Due to Joyce losing his faith, he refused to kneel praying with the rest of his family as his mother died. This incident, along with others from his childhood were recounted in his first novel, A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, which was published in 1914 with the help of the poet Ezra Pound.

By that stage Joyce had left Ireland and was never to return. He met his partner Nora Barnacle, first

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stepping out with her on June 16, 1904, the date that Ulysses is set. He left Ireland later that year and only made four return visits until 1912. After this he never set foot in Ireland again. He spent the rest of his life in Europe, living in Trieste, Rome, Zurich and Paris.

His best-known work, Ulysses was published in 1922 and caused a scandal due to the perceived obscenity of some parts of the book. However, it has since gone on to be recognised as one of the towering and most significant novels in the English language. Joyce then spent a long and protracted time writing what would be his final novel, Finnegan’s Wake, which was finally published in 1939.

Unfortunately, Joyce would not be around much longer. He suffered from problems with his eyes which required multiple operations during his lifetime and he also had a tendency, like his father, to drink too much.

He underwent surgery for a perforated ulcer but died two days later on January 13, 1941. He was buried in Fluntern Cemetery in Zurich.

However, his work lives on. Visitors to Ireland who are interested in learning more can visit the James Joyce Centre on North Great George’s Street in Dublin, as well as the James Joyce Museum in the Martello Tower in Sandycove. The latter is where the opening passage of Ulysses takes place. For more information on how to celebrate Bloomsday this year, see page 12.