Travelireland Volume 3 Issue 25 May 2016
Pat Liddy on
The Oscar Wilde Statue
Listowel
magazine
A Rainbow Coalition
at The International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival
Writers Week
Flash Back Memory Festival
Viking Cities Explored
Watch out! Miss Daisy is Driving to The Gaiety Theatre
CONTENTS
4 Welcome To Leinster 6 Dublin Dance Festival 8 Driving Miss Daisy 10 Theatre 12 Gay Theatre Festival 14 The Oscar Wilde Statue 16 Leinster Restaurants 19 Explore Leinster 20 Leinster Pubs 24 Flashback Memory Festival 26 Shopping 28 Welcome to Munster 29 Explore Munster 30 Listowel Writers Week 32 Munster Pubs 33 Munster Restaurants 34 Fastnet Film Festival 36 Killarney Racing Festival 37 Dingle Crystal 38 Welcome to Connaught 39 Explore Connaught 40 Children of Lír 42 Connaught Pubs 43 Connaught Restaurants 44 Viking Cities 45 Welcome To Ulster 46 Explore Ulster 47 The Gobbins 48 Ulster Pubs 49 Ulster Restaurants 50 Great Irish Writers
Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag
Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our May issue. Whether this is your first time visiting our shores, or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. There’s so much to do and see all year round in Ireland and as we enter the summer, May has many delights on offer. Take in some theatre at the Gaiety with the wonderful Driving Miss Daisy, or one of the many shows at the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival. Sample some culture at Listowel Writers’ Week or the Fastnet Film Festival. We’ve a great feature on Ireland’s Viking heritage, as well as the Oscar Wilde statue and we profile the great man himself in our Great Irish Writers series. You could also take trips to the Children of Lir festival, the International Literature Festival or racing in Killarney. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte. Enjoy your stay.
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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Aran Sheehan (aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie, 085 711 0826) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Patrick Donald Photography. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without
GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making 4
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river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.
Stephen’s Green Park them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne
St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland
Round Tower, Glendalough which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
International Literature Festival Dublin You Complete The Story... The International Literature Festival Dublin returns to the city, with a host of big names set to appear at a fascinating set of readings, discussions, interviews and debates from 21 - 29 May. Festival goers are invited to ‘Complete The Story’ at over 80 events in 21 venues across the city. A diverse range of established and emerging Irish and international writers will be in attendance - from feminist icons, to economists, to sports stars and beyond, ensuring there’s something that everyone can enjoy. “Putting together the programme for ILFDublin 2016 has been a fantastic experience, especially as Ireland celebrates a momentous centenary,” said Programme Director Martin Colthorpe at the launch of this year’s festival. “But while Ireland looks forward to a progressive and peaceful future, dispatches from other parts of the world reflect a more unstable reality which we want to reflect in the programme. Greek economist Yanis Varoufakis discusses his vision for a new Europe, while Jean Pierre Filiu and Shiraz Maher explore the rise of jihadism across the Middle East, acclaimed Palestinian refugee poet and activist Rafeef Ziadah showcases her album of poetry and songs We Teach Life, and Margaretta D’Arcy, the Guantanamo Granny, discusses her extraordinary life as an activist. Closer to home Bressie discusses his advocacy for mental health and why men find it so hard to ask for help, sporting legend Packie Bonner discusses his autobiography The Last Line, and Lucy Caldwell reflects on the renaissance in Irish fiction.” Female writers are also well represented at this year’s festival. Feminist icon Chris Kraus will appear at Smock Alley Theatre on 21 May. She will discuss her genre-defying book I Love Dick, a startlingly original take on femininity, desire and the epistolary novel that has become a feminist cult classic. Later that evening at the same venue Lionel Shriver, author of We Need To Talk About Kevin will discuss her new novel, The Mandibles: A Family, 20292047, which charts the disintegration of one affluent family as financial crisis engulfs an America of the near future. As always, ILF Dublin will feature a strong children’s and young adult’s programme. Frances Hardinge will reveal the secrets of The Lie Tree (a tree that feeds off whispered lies) and share writing tips with her school groups in The Ark on 24 May. Chaos Descends on The Ark on 21 May as Shane Hegarty provides a hilarious rollercoaster ride through the third book in his actionpacked Darkmouth series. The following day, at the same venue, Monkeyshine Theatre will perform their delightful interactive theatre show The Magic Bookshop for audiences age 5 and up. Old City, New Words is the title of the exciting Fringe programme run by the festival. Over the nine days of the
festival, a host of local businesses in Temple Bar will celebrate all things books-related with a wide range of events, from window displays to bike tours, poetry readings, book signings and even a human library. Luan Parle will invite lovers of lyrics to take part in a songwriting workshop, while book lovers can drop by The Bakery and Queen of Tarts for some delicious literary delicacies, or treat their favourite book to a beautiful leather cover from Thundersolas. That’s a seriously impressive line-up that is sure to tantalise bibliophiles, wordsmiths and lyricists alike. With a range of thought-provoking events on a whole host of stimulating themes, the International Literature Festival Dublin promises to be a book lover’s dream.
www.ilfdublin.com May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Dublin Dance Festival W
orld premieres, film screenings, exhibitions, discussions and more are on the agenda at this year’s Dublin Dance Festival, which runs from 17 to 28 May. The festival is the leading dance event on the Irish arts calendar, bringing together dancers and choreographers from all over the world. This year will see performers from the USA, Canada, Greece, the Netherlands, Italy, Switzerland, France, the UK and Ireland take to stages all over the city for an extravaganza of dance. This is the first festival from new festival director Benjamin Perchet, who promises audiences “an inspiring journey of aesthetic pleasure and intellectual stimulus”, exploring themes of migration, mobility and transformation.
A host of big names from the world of dance will be in attendance, including US ballet master Alonzo King. He will be bringing his celebrated ballet company on a first visit to Ireland. The twelve extraordinary dancers will be presenting two technically brilliant and sublimely beautiful works at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre on Sunday 22nd May. This exquisite programme bridges classical ballet technique and modernity and showcases King’s visionary choreographic style. The festival will also host the hotly anticipated European premiere of Betroffenheit. This is a critically acclaimed new dance-theatre work by Olivier Awardwinning Canadian choreographer Crystal Pite and pioneering playwright/performer Jonathon Young. Touching on universal themes such as trauma, loss, addiction and recovery, the five performers use movement, comedy, drama and text to tell the tale of Young’s tragic central character. Having taken North America by storm, it’s sure to be a massive hit on this side of the world too. Co-commissioned by Dublin Dance Festival and Siamsa Tíre,The National Folk Theatre of Ireland, brand new show Anam (meaning ‘soul’) brings together the skills of world-class step dancers from the U.S., 6
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Canada and Ireland in an exhilarating fusion of styles. Authentic and raw, this percussive dance piece celebrates their distinct hard shoe traditions while injecting them with fresh energy to create something new. This uplifting new show will be performed to live music and song composed by acclaimed Irish musician Fergal Ó Murchú at the Samuel Beckett Theatre from 23-25 May. Greek choreographer Patricia Apergi will explore the themes of immigration and transformation in the Irish premiere of urban fusion piece Planites. This high energy work combines step dance, flamenco, and Arabic and African moves, and is influenced by hip-hop and street culture - a fascinating mix that is sure to be a hit with festival goers.
Families are catered for with two fantastic events during the festival. Moveable Feast is a free event in Merrion Square Park on 22 May. Pack up a picnic basket and head to the park to enjoy a host of great activities, including a Baby Boogie for the 0-3s; a tea dance tent; impromptu dance performances; family hula-hooping workshops; a chill-out area for parents, a family Zumba finale and more! On 27 and 28 May, one of the world’s leading choreographers Akram Khan will bring Chotto Desh to the O’Reilly Theatre. Drawing on Khan’s unique quality of crosscultural storytelling, this family-friendly production creates a thrilling and poignant tale of a young man’s dreams and memories from Britain to Bangladesh. An enchanted imaginary world is skilfully brought to life using a magical mix of dance, text, visuals and sound. Presented by Dublin Dance Festival and The Ark. With so much to do and see, Dublin Dance Festival will add even more vibrancy to an already vibrant city when it sweeps into town for almost two weeks this month. It will enthral, it will get you thinking - and it might even get you dancing too. www.dublindancefestival.ie
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Celtic Lodge Guesthouse
In the Heart of Dublin City Centre
Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.
81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie
Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.
www.thecelt.ie
The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1
When Alfred Uhry’s Driving Miss Daisy premiered Off-Broadway in 1987 it was an instant success, earning him the Pulitzer Prize for Drama in 1988 and going on to become an Oscar winning film starring Morgan Freeman and Jessica Tandy. Now this heartwarming tale of friendship premieres in Ireland, with a stellar cast set to take the Gaiety stage from 4 - 28 May.
Set between 1948 and 1973, the play tells the story of the 25 year friendship between Daisy Werthan, an elderly Jewish lady from the Deep South, and her African-American chauffeur, Hoke Colburn. When 72 year old Daisy crashes her car, her son Boolie insists on hiring Hoke as her driver. Set against a backdrop of great civil unrest and upheaval, the relationship between the pair is frosty at first. But audience hearts are sure to melt as a deep respect, admiration and friendship grows between them.
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The production is directed by John P. Kelly and stars Gwen Taylor as Daisy, Ernest Perry Jr. as Hoke and Simon Delaney as Boolie. John P. Kelly is vastly experienced. Before moving to Ottawa in 2004, he had a long and distinguished career in Irish theatre and with the Irish National Broadcaster, RTE, where he was responsible for Radio Drama production. Since moving to Ottawa he has been awarded Director of the Year three times by the Ottawa Critics and his production of David Mamet’s November was awarded Best
Production in 2013. Gwen Taylor is an extremely talented actress, who has played a wide variety of roles throughout her long and distinguished career. Her numerous TV roles include Anne Foster In Coronation Street, Peg In Heartbeat, The Title Role in Barbara and more recently she has appeared in many guest roles on The Tracey Ullman Show. She also has numerous stage credits to her name, including The Last Of The Duty Free, The Butterfly, Calendar Girls; Quartet, Prick Up Your Ears, Shirley Valentine, Who’s Afraid Of
“
Gwen Taylor is an extremely talented actress, who has played a wide variety of roles throughout her long and distinguished career.”
Virginia Woolf? and Time Of My Life. Ernest Perry Jr. also brings a wealth of experience to the role of Hoke Colburn. A native of Chicago Illinois, his many theatre credits include, As You Like It, Cry, The Merchant of Venice, All’s Well That Ends Well, Playboy of the West Indies, Henry V and Of Mice and Men. He’s no stranger to the Irish stage either, having previously appeared in The Iceman Cometh at the Abbey Theatre while his film and TV credits include appearances in ER, Star Trek: Deep Space Nine, Lady Blue, Barbershop 2, Roll Bounce, Liar, Liar, Rage in Harlem
and The Colour of Money. Rounding out the main cast is Ireland’s own Simon Delaney. Perhaps best known to Irish audiences for his starring role as Michael in Bachelor’s Walk, Delaney has carved out a successful career internationally. He has recently appeared in the hit US show The Good Wife as well as starring opposite Vince Vaughn in The Delivery Man. His theatre and musical credits include Mrs Brown’s Boys at the 02 Arena London, Stones in His Pockets at The New Ambassadors & Duchess Theatres in London’s West End, One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest and the
Irish premiere of the Broadway smash hit Defending the Caveman. With such a great cast and production team behind it, one of the most beloved American stories of the late 20th century is in good hands for its Irish premiere. Opening night is 10 May but you can avail of low-price previews from 4 May until opening night. Make sure you book your ticket early though as the show is only available for a limited run and you don’t want to miss out on this brilliant production of a modern American classic.
www.gaietytheatre.ie
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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre Maloney’s Dream
who is plotting Othello’s downfall. 5 May - 11 June Tel: 01 8872200 Also at The Abbey this month; Tina’s Idea of Fun (14 April - 14 May).
The Gate Theatre
Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ? A family-friendly bilingual show set against the backdrop of Easter Week 1916, Maloney’s Dream is the story of how one man’s dream collides with the birth of a nation. Thaddeus Maloney dreams of opening a hotel on Sackville Street (now known as O’Connell Street) on Easter Monday 1916. Full of historical references and jam packed with live music, Maloney’s Dream is a great day out for all ages. 18 - 19 May Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also in the Mermaid Arts Centre this month; Bray Jazz Festival (29 April - 1 May), The Office for Common Sound - Sven Anderson (2 May), Marguerite (2 May), Bray Music Centre (3 May), The Impressionists (5 May), The Blue Boy (7 May), Last Hijack (9 May), Action Arts 2016 (11 - 15 May), Anomalisa (16 May), David O’Doherty (20 May), Junior Musicals Silver Jubilee (21 - 22 May), Victoria (23 May), Stagedoor Ireland - Glí (24 May), Gay Byrne (25 May), Performers Theatre (27 - 28 May) and After ‘16 (30 - 31 May).
Bord Gais Energy Theatre Chicago
Based on real life events from the Roaring 20’s, nightclub singer Roxy Hart shoots her lover then tries to stay off death row with the help of her smooth talking lawyer Billy Flynn. Featuring legendary show tunes such as All That Jazz, Razzle Dazzle and Cell Block Tango. 11 - 21 Mayl Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie
29 May Also in the Olympia this month; Spirit of Freedom 1916 - 2016 (1 May), Nevesta Na Prokat (7 May), Anastacia (8 May), Elvis Is My Daddy (11 May), G-Eazy (22 May), Pentatonix (23 May), The Last Shadow Puppets (25 May), The Bootleg Beach Boys (28 May), Benjamin Clementine (30 May), Inside Intercom Dublin (31 May).
Theatre Royal, Waterford Directed by David Grindley and starring Fiona Bell, Denis Conway, Mark Huberman and Sophie Robinson, Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ? Is a stunning piece of American theatre. Edward Albee’s thought provoking masterpiece exposes marital discontent and delusion through a war of attrition between a university professor, his wife, and their unwitting guests. 21 April - 11 June Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042
National Concert Hall
The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. Highlights this May include; Vanbrugh Quartet (1 May), Once More, From The Top (3 May), Bel Canto by Candlelight (7 May), The Magic of Vienna (10 May), The Irish Guitar Quartet (13 May), Back to Broadway (16 May), Banff Mountain Film Festival (18 May), Bellissima Duo (20 May), Music Without Borders (23 May) and Giants of Ragtime & Stride Piano (27 May). www.nch.ie
Mick Flannery
One of Ireland’s modern troubadours, Mick Flannery now has four albums under his belt - two of which have hit the Number 1 spot on the Irish charts. His insightful, emotional songs have struck a chord with audiences the world over and his passionate live shows are not to be missed. 27 May www.theatreroyal.ie Tel: 051 874402 Also at the Theatre Royal this month; Oklahoma (3 - 7 May), Theatrebox Showcase (10 - 14 May), Tumble Circus (15 May), The Matchmaker (20 May), Rebecca O’Connor as Tina in Simply The Best (21 May), Puss In Boots (22 - 23 May) and Midnight Magic (29 May).
The Gaiety Theatre
Smock Alley Theatre
The Irish premiere of Driving Miss Daisy comes to the Gaiety this May, starring Gwen Taylor, Ernest Perry Jr and Simon Delaney. This heartwarming tale set in the Deep South charts the 25 year friendship of the sharp tongued Daisy Werthan and her driver Hoke Colburn (see pages 8 & 9 for more details).
Based on Frank O’Connor’s biography of Michael Collins, The Big Fellow is an edgeof-the-seat adventure, full of action, intrigue and humour. The play charts the rise of Collins from volunteer to military leader, as well as the turmoil of O’Connor, who is seeking reparation, having once been an adolescent soldier fighting against Collins.
The Abbey Theatre
4 - 28 May Tel: 0818 719 388.
3 - 7 May
The Abbey present Peter Macon as Othello on the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death. Internationally acclaimed director Joe Dowling returns to direct this classic tale of love, jealousy, betrayal and revenge. Othello, the protector of Venice has won many battles but perhaps has put too much trust in the supposedly loyal Iago,
Also at the Gaiety this month; The Birthday Party (30 May - 4 June).
Also at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month; Tell Me on a Sunday (1 - 3 May), Bord Gáis Energy Student Theatre Awards 2016 (5 May), Christy Moore (6 - 7 May), Alonzo King LINES Ballet (22 May), Derren Brown: Miracle (23 - 28 May), Josh Groban ‘Stages’ (29 May) and The Circus of Horrors (31 May).
Othello
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They’ve sold out every other previous visit here and this time should be even more special, with the indie-rock choir phenomenon celebrating their 20th anniversary. Taking classic rock and indie songs and reinventing them as elegiac hymns - this promises to be a night like no other.
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Driving Miss Daisy
The Olympia Theatre Scala & Kolacny Brothers
Scala & Kolacny Brothers return to Dublin.
The Big Fellow
Also in Smock Alley this month; Harold Pinter: Theatre of Menace (20 - 21 May) and International Literature Festival Dublin 2016 (21 - 29 May). www.smockalley.com Tel: 01 6770014
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Founded in 2004 by Brian Merriman to mark the 150th anniversary of the birth of Oscar Wilde, the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival is now the biggest festival of its kind in the world. Running from 2 - 15 May, the festival’s aim is to celebrate positive LGBT identity through theatre and the contribution of gay people to the arts. By the time this year’s festival is finished, they will have presented over 3,500 performances since their inception 13 years ago - a phenomenal achievement and testament to the great work done by the team of volunteers who run the festival every year. There’s always a great range of theatrical productions on offer and this year is no exception.
“We are delighted to once again host the world’s biggest and most diverse LGBT Theatre Festival from May Bank Holiday for two weeks in this commemorative year,” said Brian Merriman at the launch of this year’s festival. “2016 not only allows us commemorate the contribution of gay people to the freedom of Ireland as a republic, but the many people who led the way to a more equal world for LGBT people. This is our thirteenth year staging new and diverse theatre, welcoming artists and audiences regardless of their sexual identity. Everyone is welcome in this unique festival of theatre.” There will be 10 performances per night in theatres all across the city, with companies from Ireland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Iran, Germany, the Netherlands, Spain and Greece all taking part. The varied programme encompasses music, drama, comedy and dance and given the year that’s in it, there will also be a number of 1916-themed productions. This includes Brian Merriman’s own Eirebrushed, in which the hidden gay and lesbian heroes of 1916 return to discuss their place in modern Ireland. This will be complemented
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by a series of historical shorts and a free academic seminar detailing the forgotten role of LGBT people in 1916. Another historical figure who will be examined during the festival is Sir Roger Casement. McKenna’s Fort by Arnold Thomas Fanning draws from the infamous Black Diaries. Starring Michael Bates as Casement, the play explores all of the contradictory elements of a fascinating man - including his humanitarian work and his much-speculated-onsexuality.
Ireland made history last year by becoming the first country in the world to endorse gay marriage by public referendum and this will be celebrated at the festival. Colette Cullen’s play, Yes, captures the drama excitement and humour of the marriage referendum as it follows four very different characters on their personal journeys campaigning for marriage equality. Peter (David Grant) is a veteran gay activist, Gina (Denise Quinn) is a straight woman campaigning for her gay son, Laura (Andrea Cleary) is a lesbian woman in a committed relationship and Josh (Andy Gallagher) is a gay student who has just arrived from the country. Unfortunately there are still places where LGBT people are oppressed and for the first time this year, artists who endanger their lives by living as LGBT people in Iran will perform at the festival. Ara B will tell his Iranian coming out story, which happened only after his mother entered the final stages of dementia. These artists wouldn’t be allowed to perform these works in their own countries and Brian is honoured that they are part of the festival. “The fact that these heroic modern day artists see our festival not only as a safe space but as an affirmation of their art form is a real honour for us,” he said. “Now they deserve an audience.” There will be a range of other topics in store over the course of the two weeks, with Oscar Wilde, Helen of Troy,
the Greek banking crisis and Julie Andrews as the devil just some of the wide ranging material on offer. The International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival is a wonderful and affordable festival. It offers visitors the chance to open their minds to subjects that they may not have heard about and celebrate the contribution of LGBT to the arts. As always, people from all walks of life are welcome and with such a diverse range of subjects, there’s sure to be something for everyone to enjoy.
Secure online booking is now open on www.gaytheatre.ie. Tickets are priced at €15 per show (€13 Concession/€10 matinee). Nightly Venue tickets; two plays in the same venue (7.30pm/9.00pm), available at €25. Matinees are on Bank Holiday Monday (May 2) and each Saturday (May 7/14). Box office opens April 25th from 12 noon to 3pm daily in Flanagan’s Restaurant, 61 Upper O’Connell Street, Dublin 1. +353892029673
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The Oscar Wilde Statue By Pat Liddy
Photograph Patrick Donald
Very rarely does a city have a commemorative statue that stands so much out of the ordinary that it becomes a ‘must-see’ for visitors and citizens alike. Copenhagen has its Mermaid and Brussels its Manneken Pis. However, I believe one stands head and shoulders above all the others, both literally and metaphorically. It is Dublin’s great salute to its own brilliant son, Oscar Wilde. Sitting high on its massive 30- ton granite perch, the statue of Oscar Fingal O’Flahertie Wills Wilde looks thoughtfully, even arrogantly, from its own corner of serene Merrion Square Park across to his childhood home, number one Merrion Square. He was the great-grandson of a Dutch officer who had come to Ireland with the army of William of Orange in 1689 – his original name was actually de Wilde. Born in 1854 to a renowned eye and ear specialist, Sir William Wilde, and to a poet mother known as Lady ‘Speranza’, Wilde excelled in Trinity College and later in Oxford before carving an extraordinary career for himself in the world of literature. But all that is for another day. What we want to admire here is the remarkable sculpture by Danny Osborne to the great man. Wilde adored colourful clothes and precious stones and mindful of this Osborne created an exceptional composite sculpture using exotically coloured rocks. The shoes and socks are made from black Indian granite. The jacket is crafted from green jade and its cuffs and collar from Norwegian pink thulite. The trousers are cut from larvakite, also from Norway. For the head and hands, a pale-coloured jade from Guatemala was used. This jade was so hard that it took weeks to just polish each section. A special commemorative committee raised the money for the statue and Guinness also supported it. It was unveiled by Wilde’s only grandson, Merlin Holland, in 1997. Oscar memorably once noted that “The only thing worse than being talked about, is not being talked about”. He needn’t have worried. Wilde doesn’t need a statue to attain his rightful place among the immortals but he would surely approve of Danny Osborne’s work as equal to and wonderfully reflecting his own exceptional genius. Dublin is the winner on both accounts
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A GUIDED TOUR THROUGH 10,000 YEARS OF IRISH HISTORY Celtic Gods will take you on a journey from 8,000 BC to present day in Ireland’s only cinematic theatre. Experience their cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes. Opposite Hop on/off Bus Stop Smithfield, Dublin 7
E: info@storyoftheirish.ie T: +353 (0) 1 873 3537
Open from 10:30 - 7:00pm with Shows Every Hour. Duration 60 Minutes www.storyoftheirish.ie May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Restaurant FortyOne
Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin. 41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie
DeSelby’s
DeSelby’s may be a relatively new establishment but they’ve already gained a reputation for great food and great service. Situated in a beautiful Georgian building on Camden Street, they offer an exciting range of brunch, lunch and dinner options, complemented by an enticing wine list chosen by their award winning sommelier. 9 Camden Street, Dublin 2 087 138 8766, www.deselbys.com
Camden Kitchen
Corfu Greek Restaurant
Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050
Le Bon Crubeen
Frite Haus
Frite Haus offer a unique artisan fast food experience with care and attention given to every aspect of the menu. A relaxed Belgian style ‘Chip Shop’ restaurant, Frite Haus serve authentic Belgian fries with a range of craft sauces and delicious Jane Russell sausages. Jane Russell sausages use only prime fresh cuts of Irish pork, free from preservatives so you know that you are getting the finest, freshest meat. They also serve a fantastic range of craft beers, including delicious Belgian Trappist Brewery beers. Frite Haus is the only choice for a fine dining experience at very reasonable prices. 87 Camden Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 475 8948 www.frite-haus.com
A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff. 3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie
This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality. 81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 1026 www.leboncrubeen.ie
Mexico to Rome
Suesey Street
Café Topolis
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Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
Suesey Street is Dublin’s new social destination, promising good times in the bar, great food from the kitchen and a relaxed vibe on the outdoor terrace. Located on the corner of Fitzwilliam Place, it is a welcoming space full of atmosphere and comfort, offering an informal approach to drinking and dining. The food is classed as modern Irish, changes with the season and is very creative - the flavours are awake and the customer is in for a real gourmet experience.
Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961
26 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 669 4600 www.sueseystreet.ie
23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2016
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Pacino’s
Ideally situated on Suffolk Street, just off Grafton Street and opposite Trinity College, Pacino’s offers authentic Italian food in an old world vibe of stylish brickwork, wooden floors and soft lighting. The restaurant offers authentic, rustic Italian cooking with ingredients sourced from only the best local butchers, fishmongers and artisan producers. 18 Suffolk Street Dublin 2 01 677 5651 www.pacinos.ie
Zaragoza
The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines. Open Mon-Sun 12noon - Midnight (last orders) 18 William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 4020 www.zaragozadublin.com
The Larder Restaurant & Brewhouse
Asador
La Resérve Brasserie
La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you. La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie
Kafka Restaurant An oasis of quality, The Larder offer excellent Brunch, Lunch and Evening menus made from the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients. These dishes are finished off with herbs grown in their own walled garden and complimented by their range of own brand beers. The meal can then be topped off with their own brand coffee; Dublin Roaster. ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food. ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie
8 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 633 3581 info@thelarder.ie www.thelarder.ie
The Meeting House
The Meeting House has all bases covered for a great night out, with live music and DJ’s to keep you entertained and delicious, affordable Burmese cuisine served in an ‘Asian Tapas’ style. A wide range of gluten-free and vegetarian options are also available and the staff are super friendly and helpful. They also open for an amazing brunch at the weekends. Sycamore Street, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, 01 670 3330 www.themeetinghousedublin.com
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Zaytoon
Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street. 14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie
Thornton’s Restaurant
Chez Max
Peploe’s
Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin! Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.
Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.
133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899
La Ruelle Wine Bar
This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them. Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008
The Blind Pig
Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie
Marcel’s Restaurant Want to know where to find the best cocktails in Dublin? We know the place but you have to keep it secret. The brainchild of award winning mixologist Paul Lambert and named after the police who turned a blind eye to speakeasies in the prohibition era in the US, The Blind Pig is Dublin’s best kept secret and the perfect place to go to enjoy the finest cocktails and the best food that Dublin has to offer. Originally a pop-up speakeasy bar, The Blind Pig is now in permanent residence and has developed a loyal fanbase thanks to the unique experience that this venue offers. So how do you find them? Give them a call, book through their website, and await further instructions. Tel: 085 874 7901 www.theblindpig.ie reservations@theblindpig.ie 18
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2016
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com
Salamanca
Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie
Mykonos Taverna
Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City. 13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 660 2367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie
Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin. Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! 76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745
Explore Leinster
Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin
Revolution 1916 at The Ambassador Event Centre
The Old Jameson Distillery Experience the Old Jameson Distillery whiskey tour and let expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson Irish Whiskey. At the end of the tour, all visitors are rewarded with a complimentary dram of whiskey at the Jameson Bar and partake in a comparison whiskey tasting session where you will learn how to tell the differences between Scotch, Irish, and American whiskey. The tour finishes at the exclusive gift store where people may choose to buy a personalised bottle or a memento of their visit. Dublin is a city famous for its whiskey and a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery is essential for any person looking to explore, sightsee or even just enjoy themselves and have a drink. Open Daily from 9am-6pm Tel: 01 8072348/ 2316
If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages. In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule. Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.
Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular visitor attractions. Glasnevin Museum proudly tells the story of modern Ireland through interactive exhibitions, re-enactments, lectures and daily walking tours. Visitors learn about the harsh realities of life in Dublin, hear about gravediggers and grave robbers, cholera epidemics, and world wars. A visit inside Daniel O’Connell’s Celtic Romantic designed crypt and iconic tower, the tallest in Ireland, forms part of the tour. There is also a genealogy research area, where extensive online records can be accessed. The museum shop stocks a terrific collection of Irish crafts, jewellery, mementos, historical books, and other interesting gift items. www.glasnevintrust.ie
This original and authentic exhibition will give a fascinating insight into the 1916 Rising and coincides with the Centenary Celebrations that will be taking place all over the country. The exhibition features the largest private collection of 1916 artefacts, which have been kindly donated by the Irish Volunteers Commemorative Organisation. There will be over 500 items on display, including an original 1916 Proclamation, uniforms from the Irish Volunteers, Cumann na mBan and na Fianna, 1916 weapons including Howth Mausers, German Lugers, a Peter the Painter C96 machine pistol favoured by Patrick Pearse, French Bayonets and even the actual door handle of the G.P.O. from 1916. www.ambassadordublin.com
Story of the Irish
Powerscourt House and Gardens Beautiful Powerscourt House and Gardens was recently voted No.3 in the World’s Top Ten Gardens by National Geographic and is one of the must-see tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the wild Wicklow countryside, overlooking the Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt enjoys a breath-taking panorama. The Gardens stretch over 47 acres and offer visitors a sublime blend of formal gardens, sweeping terraces, statues and ornamental lakes, secret hollows and rambling walks. Voted in the Top Ten Houses in the World by Lonely Planet, Powerscourt House features a range of artisan stores and the Avoca Terrace Café. Also located on Powerscourt Estate are two championship Golf Courses, Ireland’s Highest Waterfall and the Powerscourt Hotel. W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000
A unique attraction using live actors and cinema: Experience 9,000 years of Irish cultural triumphs, feel their proud defiance as they fight against annihilation, witness their heart wrenching famine, and rejoice at their unbelievable rise from the ashes. This is a great starting point to any vacation, giving context to; Ireland’s Ancient East and West, Newgrange, the Vikings, St Patrick, the Book of Kells, Invasion, the British, Famine, 1916 Rebellion and Modern Ireland. Open daily 10am to 7pm. Duration 1 hour. Located in central Dublin. Tel: 01 873 3537 www.storyoftheirish.ie May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Pubs in Leinster 57 The Headline
Sin É
JJ Smyth’s
Sin É
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Situated only a short walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral and Teeling Whiskey Distillery, 57 The Headline is the ideal spot to sample the best of Irish Craft Beers and Whiskeys. With 24 taps dedicated to the best of Irish and International beers, you won’t be stuck for choice. They offer Beer tasting trays from 3 to 9 choices and 5 Whiskey trays. They also serve the best bar food in Dublin 8 and you won’t be paying city centre prices. Visit their website for all products, opening times and more.
Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is definitely the place to be.
Clanbrassil St. Lower, Dublin 8 Tel: 01 532 0279 www.57theheadline.ie
14 -15 Ormond Quay Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037
With live music six nights a week, JJ Smyth’s is the home of jazz and blues in Dublin. The family run pub is steeped in history and the welcoming atmosphere keeps the loyal regulars coming back for the finest service and some of the best music that Dublin has to offer. JJ’s started out as a family owned grocery store and public house in the 1730’s and is one of the city’s oldest continuous licensed premises. It was also the birthplace of the famous Irish lyrical poet Thomas Moore, who was born there in 1779. If you love jazz and blues, then you’ll love JJ Smyth’s.
The Liquor Rooms
Doheny & Nesbitt’s
12 Aungier St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 475 2565
Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.
One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.
7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 Tel: 087 339 3688
5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 2945
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2016
Dingle Whiskey Bar
The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnán O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for €18. 44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie
CEMETERY MUSEUM CEMETERY MUSEUM & GUIDED TOURS Winner Ireland’s BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCE
Irish Tourism Industry Awards 2015/16 RECOGNISING SUCCESS and INNOVATION
WINNER
IRELAND’S HISTORY CARVED IN STONE
CEMETERY MUSEUM
museum and 1916 exhibition tours and re-enactments
CEMETERY MUSEUM MUSEUM CEMETERYCEMETERY MUSEUM
GLASNEVIN CEMETERY MUSEUM, FINGLAS ROAD, DUBLIN 11 PHONE 01 882 6550 MUSEUM@ GLASNEVINTRUST.IE May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Pubs in Leinster The Porterhouse
There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.
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Temple Bar, 16-8 St,west, Dublin 2and strolling into the celt is likeParliament taking a trip to the play boys chailĂnĂ01 payfor attention Tel: 679 8847and dance along the way to the early light ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜
The Celt
The Brazen Head
Dating back to 1198, The Brazen Head is officially Ireland’s oldest pub. The many pictures and scrolls that adorn the walls will transport you back to a time when the famous old pub was frequented by the likes of James Joyce, Brendan Behan and Michael Collins. You might even spot a famous contemporary face or two in there enjoying the great food and drink or live music and storytelling that the pub is famous for. 20 Bridge Street Lower, Dublin 8 01 677 9549 / 01 679v5186 www.brazenhead.com
Johnnie Fox’s
Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster. Glencullen, Co Dublin Tel: 01 295 5647
Tap House
Dice Bar Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie
Grogan’s
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 22
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2016
Situated on the corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street, near Smithfield Square, at Dice Bar they strive for three things – great drinks, great staff and great music. The welcoming staff offer a range of premium Irish whiskeys and if whiskey isn’t your thing then you have another great option. Dice Bar brew their own beers; the delicious Revolution Red and Augustine With so much choice and a relaxed setting, Dice Bar warrants many return visits. Open from 3pm daily. 93-94 Benburb Street Tel: 01 633 3936 www.thatsitdublin.com
Be prepared to enter into the world of true beer artistry, where friendly knowledgeable staff will guide you to that perfect beverage, served in the especially designed Munique glass, which optimises the aroma, retaining carbonation and cooling until the last drop. With possibly finest bar food and cocktails in town, your whole party will be catered for in this wonderfully unique establishment. 60 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 491 3436. www.taphouse.ie
POWERSCOURT GARDENS Voted No.3 Garden in the World – National Geographic
OOTB
Out of the Blue
Seafood
Japanese Gardens – Pepperpot Tower – Pets’ Cemetery Terrace Café – Gift Shop – Garden Centre
W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000 Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, County Wicklow, Ireland
Dinner daily from 5.30pm and Sunday Lunch Reservations +353-6691-50811 www.outoftheblue.ie Dingle May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Physics Square in Trinity College. This unique festival promises to ask some big questions in an unusual way and will strengthen the cultural bond between Ireland and France. The organisers hope to present an original perspective on the theme of collective memory and all are invited to come and participate and share their views. If you’re looking for something totally different to do this month, then the Flashback Memory Festival is the perfect place to go to challenge the mind and stimulate the senses. www.alliance-francaise.ie
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Flashback Memory Festival
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STEP INSIDE THE HOME OF
JAMESON BOOK YOUR TOUR AT
JAMESONWHISKEY.COM
See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes
Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience
On social media:
Book online at www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com and receive a 10% discount on adult tickets
www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000
Recommended Shopping Irish Linen House
Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Unit 1, Malt House Square, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01 820 8774
ThunderSolas Leather Designs
Kilkenny Design Centre
ThunderSolas provide handmade leather designs for men and women. Their products are made from high quality cow leather and include bags, belts, bracelets, wallets, coin holders and more. Their workshop is also in the shop so customers can see the leather skins that they have in stock and the staff are happy to make adjustments or design new pieces to order. Don’t forget to mention Travel Ireland to avail of a 10% discount. 2 Cow’s Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 01 6798713, www.thundersolas.com
Kilkenny Design Centre is situated in the heart of Ireland’s Craft capital, Kilkenny City. Once the Castle Stables dating back to 1760’s, Kilkenny Design is now home to three restaurants and a Shop stocking the very best of Irish products including Nicholas Mosse, Max Benjamin, Hairy Fruit Art, Áine Knitwear and Orla Kiely.
Cows Lane Designer Studio
Mitchell & Son
Mitchell & Son have been trading in Dublin since the 19th century and are the only wine company in Ireland that is run by descendants of its founder. They offer high quality wine, champagne and spirits from all over the world, including their Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskey, as well as Riedel Glassware. They also run wine appreciation courses that teach you how to get the best from your bottle of wine and give you an understanding of the Irish wine market. CHQ, IFSC, Dublin 1, 01 612 5540 54 Glasthule Rd. Sandycove, Co. Dublin 01 230 2301 www.mitchellandson.com
Patrick Donald Photo Gallery
Cows Lane Designer Studio is a colourful, fun retail space run by a group of independent designers and makers. With an eclectic mix of handcrafted, Irish designs including textiles, knitwear, jewellery, millinery, ceramics, prints, homewares and more, there is something for everyone. The perfect place to browse and be inspired! Unit 2, Essex Street West, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8. Tel: 01 679 8366 Info@clds.ie www.cowslanedesignerstudio.ie
Dipili Boutique
64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 26
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Situated at the heart of Dublin on Dawson Street, this is a ‘must visit’ if you want to get a quality souvenir of your time in Ireland! Patrick is well known for his black & white Irish landscape and Dublin Street photography. Gift sizes images are reasonably priced at €35. He will even ship them for you anywhere in the world free of charge! 8/9 Royal Hibernian Way Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 681 5225
Designer Exchange
Jam Art Factory
Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.
Castle Yard, Kilkenny Tel: 056 772 2118 www.KilkennyDesign.com
Dipili Boutique is an independently owned shop in the heart of Dublin. They offer an accessible selection of emerging designers from Ireland & around the globe. You’re sure to find a piece you can’t wait to take home. From fashion accessories to home decor promoting internationally lauded designers including Una Burke, Lili Radu, & Triwa, discover fresh talent. Tax Free shopping for non-EU residents. Shop in-store & online, worldwide shipping is available. 6 Ormond Quay Lower, Dublin 1, D01 W8W8 01 8729077, contact@dipiliboutique.com www.dipiliboutique.com
Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands and Tax Free shopping to non EU residents. 53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd
Recommended Shopping Celtic Whiskey Shop
Tights Department
Ireland’s premier whiskey shop has become a mecca for whiskey lovers since it first opened in 2003. They have daily whiskey tastings and the knowledgeable and experienced staff are always on hand to offer their expert advice and guidance. If you’re travelling, the staff are happy to wrap your purchases in protective wrapping and can arrange shipping to national and international destinations.
Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.
27 - 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 9744 / 01 675 9768 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
Article
This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and dream trees on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com
Mackintosh by Francis Campelli
Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands when you visit this store. They offer the finest quality, waterproof Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure from €425 as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. 46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 608 8608 www.franciscampelli.com
25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. 085 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)
The Donegal Shop
Bagatt
Bagatt are serious about footwear. With over a hundred year’s experience, the shoes available at Bagatt are all manufactured in Italy and have been developed with craft and style. They stock an exciting range of quality, stylish mens and womens shoes that have remained in tune with fashion trends and meet the every need of the modern shopper. 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 01 6489110 www.bagatt.it
Kennedy of Ardara The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com
Kildare Village
Kildare Village is Ireland’s leading luxury shopping destination. With designer boutiques providing fashion and luxuries for the home, Kildare Village offers a unique selection of Irish and international brands with savings of up to 60% on the recommended retail price, seven days a week and all year round.
www.kildarevillage.com
Kennedy of Ardara is an independent family owned business that has been at the heart of Donegal knitwear for over 100 years. The company have a factory outlet store in the scenic heritage town of Ardara. Kennedy of Ardara are renowned manufacturers of aran hand-knits and the famous ‘Hillwalker’ outdoor sweater. Kennedy of Ardara stock a wide range of traditional and contemporary knitwear and gifts. Shipping service available so no need to worry about case space! Front Street, Ardara, Co. Donegal Tel: +353 (0)74 9541106 www.kennedyirishsweaters.com info@kennedyirishsweaters.com May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Cork at night
Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. Reginald’s Tower
County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. 28
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One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’
Blarney Castle
and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
Explore Munster
Cliffs of Moher
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Jameson Experience, Midleton Co.Cork
The Hunt Museum
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.
Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com
The Ring of Kerry (Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.
Bunratty Castle
Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Titanic Experience Cobh
Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience. The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site. Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.
Ring of Kerry
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.
Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.
www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie
Tel: 021 438 5252 May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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1st to 5th June 2016
s d r o W f o m o d g n i K A
F
iction, Philosophy and Football are just some of the themes at this year’s Listowel Writers’ Week, which takes place between 1 – 5 June 2016. Award-winning Irish and international writers descending on the beautiful Kerry heritage town include Gerbrand Bakker, Joanne Harris, AC Grayling, Danielle McLaughlin, David Park, Lucy Caldwell, Louis De Berniéres, Anakana Schofield, Patrick De Witt, James Runcie and AL Kennedy. Also making an appearance are Pulitzer prize-winning poets Paul Muldoon and Gregory Pardlo, who will be travelling from New York to woo the Listowel audiences with their poetic vision. Other internationals attending are awardwinning writers Jean Echenoz from France and Israel’s Savyon Liebrecht. Home of the Creative Writing Workshop in Ireland since 1971, a wide selection of two and three day workshops take place during the mornings of the festival and are directed by world-renowned Irish and international writers and teachers such as Ferdia MacAnna, Thomas McCarthy and Magi Gibson. Places are still available, but you’ll need to book soon! Faber Academy’s Richard Skinner, who will direct the Advanced Novel Workshop, will also be discussing his new book The Busby Babes with award-winning sports journalist Weeshie Fogarty.
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The festival also hosts thriving children’s and young adult events, which this year includes Francesca Simon, author of the staggeringly popular Horrid Henry series and Louise O’Neill, described by the Guardian as ‘the best YA fiction writer alive today.’ An innovative addition this year will see IMPAC Winning Dutch writer (and gardener) Gerbrand Bakker take a small group of lucky people to one of Listowel’s most beautiful spaces, the Garden of Europe, where he will talk about sense of place and the link between nature and writing. Well known for its friendliness and informal atmosphere, Listowel Writers’ Week has something for everyone, with its diverse selection of readings, interviews, forums, poetry, art, theatre, book launches, pub trails and bus & walking tours. Whether you visit for a day or stay for the week, the unique atmosphere of the festival will leave you with a lasting impression of the famous Magic that is Listowel. Tel: 068 21074 email: info@writersweek.ie www.writersweek.ie You can also find #ListowelWW16 on FB (Listowel Writers’ Week) and Twitter (@ Writersweek)
Summer Term 7 June - 29 July 2016 French Courses forAdults, Teenagers, Children & Toddlers The French Language & Cultural Centre in Dublin 1 Kildare Street, Dublin 2 / www.alliance-francaise.ie
Recommended Pubs in Munster Jack Meades (under the bridge) Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day. Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950
The Bierhaus
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.
An Brog
An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week. 72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork Tel: 021 427 0074
Buckley’s Bar
The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration. The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 064 663 1037
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Dick Mack’s
Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960
Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)
Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Strand Inn
fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.
The Smuggler’s Inn
Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811
La Boheme Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com
The Munster Room Restaurant
The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort was awarded 2AA Rosettes in 2001 and currently continues this elite standard further confirmed with multiple awards and its review in the 2015 Michelin Guide. With its warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls, ornate ceiling, and further complemented by an extensive wine cellar and exciting seasonal menus it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Using the finest local produce, gifted head chef Michael Thomas and his culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. Waterford Castle, The Island, Co. Waterford Tel: 051 878203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com/munsterroom-restaurant
Out of the Blue
They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no
La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie
The Copper Hen
This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie
The Lobster
Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629
The Cliff Restaurant The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on. Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie
The Cliff Restaurant is a new addition to The Strand Inn. The Cliff is a relaxed, casual affair serving brunch from 1pm, and is open for food until 9pm. The Cliff contains a bar and two dining rooms. Downstairs is kid friendly, while upstairs is kid free making it the perfect place for both a family occasion or an evening meal with friends. The menu is wide ranging and includes pizzas, pastas, great salads and burgers, as well as delicious steaks. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford Tel: 051 383 839 May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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FFilamsFtesntiveatl T
he Fastnet Film Festival comes to West Cork from 25 - 29 May. Over five days at the end of May, in the stunning seaside village of Schull, this Film Festival without a Cinema explores alternatives. They use “Distributed Cinema”, Schull’s dedicated server to short films. Anyone with a smartphone, laptop or iPad can access the submitted films through Wi-Fi, anywhere on the Main Street of Schull during the festival. Shorts and features are also screened in venues all over the town - from a bookshop; to an art gallery; numerous local pubs and restaurants; The Long Island Cinema; and the hotel and village hall. This year the Film Festival without a cinema, will actually have 18 cinemas. The names are changed outside each of the premises - to The Savoy, The Adelphi, The Plaza, The Metropole and more to give that authentic cinema experience. This is an ‘up close and personal’ festival, where young filmmakers, internationally renowned directors, producers, and invited guest speakers, all share the same space. Guests in the past have included Jim Sheridan, Gerard Stembridge, Jack Gold, Kirsten Sheridan, Steve Coogan, Greg Dyke, Tony Barry, Lenny Abrahamson, Carmel Winters, Ken Wardrop, Andrew Freedman, Ian Power, David Puttnam, Sandy Lieberson, Mike Leigh among many others. This year sees the inclusion of films from over 30 countries. Visitors to Schull will be treated to screenings, Premieres, Workshops, live music, parties, and wonderful free family entertainment at a festival that does wonders in supporting young independent filmmakers. For further information check out www.fastnetfilmfestival.com 34
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Killarney May Racing Festival I
reland’s Most Scenic Racecourse is the place to be this month for the Killarney May Racing Festival. The festival offers three days of top class racing from 15 - 17 May in the beautiful Co. Kerry town. The racecourse is situated in Killarney town and looks out on to the magnificent scenery of Killarney National Park, making it the perfect venue for racegoers to enjoy some thrilling summer racing. Killarney has a long, established history of racing, with the first race recorded there in 1822. The present course opened in 1936 and remains the home of racing in Killarney. The Killarney May Racing Festival offers a mix of National Hunt and Flat Racing. Sunday and Monday are both National Hunt cards while Tuesday is a Flat Racing card. The first race is at 2pm on Sunday 15 May, which is also ‘Mad Hatter’s Day’. There are some great prizes on offer for the winners of the ‘Mad Hatter Hat Competition’ and the theme of the day is ‘fun and colour’, which is sure to make for a hugely entertaining first day of the festival. On the track, the big race of the day will be the Grade B Ladbrokes.com Handicap Hurdle, with a prize fund of €50,000 up for grabs.
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The fun continues on Monday with Lá na gClub. Some of the county’s best footballers will compete in a free-kick taking competition and this will be followed by the first race at 5pm. The featured race of the day will be the McSweeney Arms Hotel Killarney National, which has a prize fund of €40,000. This will be followed on Tuesday with a Flat Racing card, with the first race once again starting at 5pm. So get your colours out and start working on those crazy hats and you could be in with a chance of winning some great prizes. Or maybe you’re feeling lucky and fancy a flutter on one of the big races. Whatever you decide to do, you’re sure to have a ball at this year’s Killarney May Racing Festival. www.killarneyraces.ie
Dingle Crystal
F
rom humble beginnings, Dingle Crystal have established themselves on the world stage thanks to their commitment to producing mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal. In an era when many other brands have gone down the wholesale route, this family-run company still proudly produce unique, hand crafted pieces that can be found in the collections of the President of Ireland and Bono to name but two. With every piece signed and dated, it’s not hard to see why Dingle Crystal’s work would be appealing to those visiting the country, looking for an exclusive souvenir of their trip to Ireland. They also cater to those living abroad, shipping worldwide. Their fantastic work in this field was recently recognised at the SME Awards 2016, where they won the award for Best Online Exporter. If you do visit Dingle then a trip to the Dingle Crystal store is a must. While there you can take a tour of their workshop. There you will find company founder Sean Daly hard at work. This is a wonderful opportunity
to observe a master craftsman and see how Dingle Crystal’s wonderful designs are created. They offer group demonstrations that can cater for up to 35 people and this is an opportunity that should not be passed up. There aren’t many craftsmen left making pieces the way Sean and his sons do and the tour is fascinating and informative. From bowls to glasses, candlesticks and vases, Dingle Crystal can create the perfect souvenir or gift that you won’t find anywhere else. They also offer beautiful whiskey glasses that have proved extremely popular all over the world. These glasses are the perfect match for Irish whiskey but make sure you get your order in early - these handmade glasses are in great demand. It’s not hard to see why as they really are astounding creations that would stand out in anyone’s collection. Dingle Crystal, Green Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 915 1550 info@dinglecrystal.ie www.dinglecrystal.ie
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Welcome to Connaught
Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty
The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city
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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.
Explore Connaught
Kylemore Abbey
Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was reopened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.
Glencar Waterfall
Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.
Croagh Patrick
Connemara
Mullaghmore
Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.
Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. Tel: 098 64114 May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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The r í L f o n e Childr Festival
T
he Children of Lír Festival celebrates the connection between the world-famous Clann Lír legend and the beautiful Erris region in Mayo. Located along the Wild Atlantic Way, the unique family festival takes place in an area that has been voted ‘the best place in Ireland to go wild!’ (The Irish Times) On the weekend of May 27 to May 29, events and activities will be held in Belmullet (the main town of Erris), in surrounding villages, and on islands off the coast. The legend concerns four children who were turned into swans by their vengeful stepmother. Unable to break the spell until they were blessed by a monk, the children spent 300 years on Lough Derravaragh, followed by 300 years in the Sea of Moyle, and finally 300 years on the waters of Irrus Domnann in Erris. It was there that they were blessed by St Brendan the Navigator and the spell was finally broken. However, being 900 years old, they immediately turned to dust and it is said that their final resting place is on the nearby Inis Gluaire Island. Belmullet is the largest town in Erris and this quaint town, full of decades old family-run business is a throwback to an Ireland of days gone by, and the perfect place to celebrate this towering Irish legend. They have a fantastic lineup of activities planned for a weekend that is sure to be educational and fun for the whole family. The weekend will kick off with the official opening concert from the Belmullet National School Band. Visitors can also enjoy craft exhibitions, children’s games and refreshments before enjoying a rare treat in the Talbot Hotel in the evening. Food and Folklore with Eddie Lenihan will take place in the hotel from 7pm. The renowned author, storyteller and broadcaster will delight the audience with tales of myth, magic and mystery while they enjoy a three course meal - and all this costs just €25. A great price for an amazing evening’s entertainment. Saturday will be a very busy day with a range of family-friendly activities during the day, followed by some fun for grown ups in the evening. Craft Workshops in Lúnasa shop will bring the legend of the Children of Lír to life, while visitors can hear that legend and more during the Loop Walk, which takes in the Children of Lír sculpture.. There will also be storytelling and a special Cineclub na nÓg showing of Song of the Sea at Áras Inis Gluaire. Later that night, festival goers can enjoy traditional music in Denny’s Pub, or a Cocktail Trail around the town, with live music in participating pubs. The final day of the festival, there’s a special treat in store too - a chance to visit the final resting place of the Children of Lír. The 40
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Discover the Island of Inis Gluaire Boat Trip will give visitors the rare chance to experience a guided tour of this incredible island - a place steeped in mythology and history. It’s the perfect way to round off what is sure to be an incredible weekend. A weekend where you can immerse yourself in the fascinating world of Irish mythology in the beautiful town of Belmullet. www.facebook.com/childrenoflirfestival
Excite your senses at Northern Ireland’s most spectacular cliff path walk
Advance booking is essential. Pre-book your tour today online: www.thegobbinscliffpath.com This project is part-financed by the European Union’s INTERREG IVA Cross-border Programme managed by the Special EU Programmes Body
Tel: 028 9337 2318 Follow us on
Recommended Pubs in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad. 17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820
Furey’s Pub
The Quays
Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers. Bridge St, Sligo Tel: 087 958 3080 Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!
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Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.
11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347
Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534
Roísín Dubh
Matt Malloy’s
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.
Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540
Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655
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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café
An Port Mór Restaurant
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730
The Cottage Restaurant
Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West. Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933
Ashford Castle
Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.” Sea Road, Galway City. Tel: 091 526 003
Eala Bhán
Upstairs @ West Restaurant
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000
Waterfront House Restaurant
Ireland’s largest stockist of Designer Sunglasses If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823
Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.
The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.
Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255
Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120
The Yew Tree Restaurant
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Discover Ireland’s Viking H eritage
A
s you tour through Ireland, you will notice that the country has a very rich historical background. Celts and English culture, of course, play their part, but did you know that Vikings also played a huge part in founding and developing some of Ireland’s biggest cities? There is still plenty of evidence of Viking settlements in these cities and many interesting tours that you can take to learn more about Viking settlements in Ireland. The Irish Viking age started around 795. At this time, sons of Scandinavian noblemen who stood to inherit nothing from their fathers, started gathering groups of warriors and raided down the Irish coasts, pillaging settlements. The small groups of warriors would land on the west coast, and quickly attack the monasteries. The raiders would seize anything of value that was compact enough to carry on their ships. This included gold and silver, but also iron tools and weapons, as well as clothing and food. They would then go back to Norway or Denmark to sell their ill gotten gains. These raids continued for several decades but by 830, the method had changed. Vikings began arriving in large fleets and begin to settle temporarily in parts of the country so they didn’t have to brave the sea during the winter months. Over time these settlements became permanent and some would eventually become what are still the major cities in the country today. Dublin was established as a Viking settlement in the 10th century and, despite a number of rebellions by the native Irish, it remained largely under Viking control until 1169. Two Viking settlements have been uncovered in the city, one at Wood Quay and the other at Christ Church Cathedral. There is a permanent Viking exhibition in the National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology, where you can learn more about Irish Viking settlements. If you are interested in seeing what being a Viking was like, Dublinia (www. dublinia.ie) offers the chance to discover Viking and Medieval Dublin in an interactive museum, with events every two weeks. If outdoor tours are more your thing, the Viking Splash Tours will allow you to enjoy the sights of Dublin, by land and water. Cork was originally a monastic settlement that the Vikings first attacked in 820. After a few raids, the city achieved an urban character when Viking (also called Norsemen) settlers founded a trading port there. Like Dublin, Cork was an important trading 44
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centre in the global Scandinavian trade network. The monasteries and Vikings reached an agreement to coexist peacefully - with churchmen using Norsemen trade to purchase English salt, French wine or other imported products. You can enjoy a fascinating trip back in time thanks to a Viking walking tour, that will lead you through the oldest streets of the city. This private tour (2 people minimum are required) offers 90 minutes of historical discovery, led by passionate and knowledgeable guides. Waterford, Ireland’s oldest city, became a Viking settlement in 853. The name comes from Old Norse Veðrafjǫrðr, meaning “weather fjord”. In 2003, archaeologists discovered a big Viking settlement in Woodstown, a small town upriver, five miles west of Waterford City. Woodstown is unique – there is no evidence of such a large 9th century Viking settlement anywhere else in Western Europe. Waterford was an important Viking settlement, which you can see in the Waterford Viking Triangle. Part of this triangle, the Reginald’s Tower and its exhibition display a superb collection of artefacts telling the story of Vikings in the city. If you are more into fun and dynamic shows, or if you have children, then Waterford Epic Tour provide a family friendly tour of the Viking Triangle, which is fun and informative. The tour is actually a theatrical comedy with costumes, singing and dancing that will be enjoyable at all ages. Limerick city dates from 812, making it possibly the earliest Viking settlement in the country. However, history suggests the presence of earlier settlements in the area surrounding King’s Island, the island at the historical city centre. In 812 the Vikings pillaged the city, burning the monastery of Mungret but were forced to flee when the Irish attacked and killed many of them. The Normans redesigned the city in the 12th century and added much of the most notable architecture, such as King John’s Castle and St Mary’s Cathedral. To discover more about Vikings in Limerick, you can book for the Red Viking Tours, a bus tour that will bring you back to the Viking arrival to let you enjoy the lovely folklore of the city. You can also visit Lough Gur Heritage centre, a magical place where you’ll find archaeological buildings from the stone age. While they may have initially arrived as a hostile force, the Vikings contributed so much to Irish culture, heritage and architecture and no trip to Ireland is complete without exploring the Viking heritage of our beautiful cities.
Welcome to Ulster
The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the
‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.
new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Mount Errigal
Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or
County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the
Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Ulster
The Old Bushmills Distillery
Belleek Pottery
Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. Tel: 028 9076 6386
In 1608, King James I granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel: 028 2073 3218
Ulster American Folk Park
The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. Visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value. The National Trust oversees the Causeway and provides the half million tourists who go there every year with all the information that they need. 46
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Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. You can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918
When you step into the world of Belleek Pottery you enter one of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages. Visitors can enjoy a little retail therapy in the Belleek Pottery showroom and no visit is complete without taking a little time out at the Belleek Pottery restaurant to enjoy some well deserved refreshments from the savoury and sweet menu served. Tel: +44(0) 28 6865 9300 Email: visitorcentre@belleek.ie Facebook.com/belleekpottery
Florence Court
Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. Outside, visitors can discover the working estate including a sawmill, forge and carpenters shop, ice house, the historic rose garden and the mother of all Irish Yews. The Stables tearoom and Coach House gift shop are also onsite. The forest park has 10 miles of trails to enjoy on foot, by bike or on horseback. Tel: 028 6634 9001
Excite your senses at the breathtaking
Gobbins Cliff Path Walk The stunning coastal cliff path walk, in Islandmagee, is now open for bookings ahead of the summer season. Comprising of suspension tubular bridges, caves, steps, and tunnels carved through the spectacular rock face, The Gobbins is a reimagined treasure that has brought what was once a thriving 1900’s hotspot into the 21st century. The Gobbins attraction aims to retrieve its title as Northern Ireland’s premier visitor attraction, as in its heyday it was more popular than the Giants Causeway. Along the trail, visitors will enjoy spectacular views of the natural landscape, get up close to a diverse range of wildlife and gain privileged access to Northern Ireland’s only mainland colony of Puffins, alongside various other bird species. As well as the geological interests, The Gobbins Cliff Path boasts tremendous history and heritage. The Gobbins is a truly amazing experience and has preserved its original charm to offer the same spellbinding appeal that it did in its prime. Steven Dickson from Lisburn, has already revisited the Gobbins on a family adventure with his young son, Jack and his wife Kit. The visit served as a trip down memory lane for the couple who had previously visited the original site together many years ago when it was a lot less accessible and not officially open to the public. On his return to The Gobbins, Stephen Dickson commented: “In the late 1980’s my now wife and I visited the Gobbins as thrill
seeking outdoor activity instructors. We scrambled around the derelict Victorian cliff paths and tiptoed across the old tubular bridge before it later collapsed into the sea. We explored the caves and bivouacked in them on a few occasions. “It’s been brilliant to see the path brought back to life, with 2015 engineering so that others can enjoy this adventure. It’s not for the faint hearted, instead it is perfect for an adventurous day out. “It was great to be able to now take my son to where we had some great adventures. Jack loved the tubular bridge, where you can look down at the sea below and the spooky caves with the booming cannon like waves. “Well done to the council for having the vision to take on such a daunting refurbishment task. It will be a different experience in every changing season and another Northern Irish wonder!” Of those who have already trodden the
cliff edge path to date, the general consensus is that it is a fabulous addition to tourist facilities across Northern Ireland. ‘World class’, ‘a never to be forgotten experience’ ‘spectacular’ and a ‘five star attraction’ are just some of the testimonials from those who have already undertaken the new tour of the reimagined Gobbins cliff path. Whitehead Gallery Owner and organiser of Tours of The Edwardian House, Cynthia Waddell admitted that she anticipated a relaxing walk on her visit, but confesses she got so much more than what she bargained for: “I had expected a leisurely walk along the coastal path but nothing prepared me for this experience,” said Cynthia. “The Gobbins is a world class attraction from the visitors centre onwards. There is spectacular scenery and sea views wherever you look. Ailsa Craig and the coast of Scotland can be seen in the distance. Passing the sea birds in their nesting places on the cliffs you could almost reach out to touch them,” she added. The cliff path walk requires a reasonable level of fitness and there is also a height restriction in place. Pre-booking of the tour is essential. Book your tour online now via www.thegobbinscliffpathwalk.com Tours take place daily and depart on the hour from 10am until 6pm is essential. Tickets cost £10 per person, £25 for family tickets and are free for registered carers. May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Pubs in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768
White’s Tavern
Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080
Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058
The Duke Of York
The John Hewitt
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062
Peadar O’Donnell’s
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 48
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox
Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
The Ginger Bistro
Coco
1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121
55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421
Deane’s Restaurant
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150
Shu
They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655
Vanilla Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
Telfords Restaurant
Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268
Lough Erne Resort
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000
Sun Kee Restaurant
One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134
Sakura
In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590
Speranza Restaurant
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
Lusty Beg
This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300
16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Great Irish Writers
O
Oscar Wilde
By Angeline Le Mercier
scar Wilde was an Irish playwright, novelist, essayist, and poet. He’s known for his exuberant personality, consummate wit and imprisonment for homosexuality as much as for his literary works. Wilde was born in Dublin on 16 October 1854. His father, William Wilde, was an acclaimed doctor and his mother, Jane Francesca Elgee, was a poet and a skilled linguist. She had a deep influence on her son’s later writing. Oscar Wilde was a bright and bookish child. He attended the Portora Royal School, Trinity College in Dublin, then Magdalen College in Oxford. During all his school years, Wilde excelled academically, receiving first class marks in both classics and classical moderations. He received many prestigious prizes for his literary works as a student. After he graduated, Wilde settled down in London to start his literary career and soon became part of the aesthetic movement - a movement which praises aesthetic values rather than socio-political subjects in literature. On May 1884, Wilde married a wealthy Englishwoman named Constance Lloyd. They had two sons: Cyril, in 1885, and Vyvyan, in 1886. A year after his wedding, Wilde was hired to run Lady’s World, a woman’s magazine that once was very popular. He renamed it The Woman’s World, and changed it almost completely to make it fashionable. He stayed a few years at the head of the magazine, but by 1889, he left it for literature, and The Woman’s World faded. At this time, the author entered a seven-year period of creativity, during which he produced a great part of his literary works. He wrote many short stories and plays, as well as his only novel; The Picture of Dorian Gray. This book tells the story of a beautiful young man, Dorian Gray, who wishes that his portrait ages while he remains youthful and lives a life of sin and pleasure. Today, the novel is known as a classic, but at the time, it was very controversial, with many criticising the book’s lack of morality. Wilde defended himself saying that “vice and virtue are to the artist materials for an art.” Over the next few years, Wilde produced several great plays. Most were satirical comedies of manners, including A Woman of No Importance (1893), An Ideal Husband (1895) and, perhaps his most famous work - The Importance of Being Earnest (1895). Wilde was enjoying a period of great literary success, and was recognized as one of the great Victorian writers. But he also began an affair with a young man named Alfred Douglas, an author and poet that was 16 years younger than Wilde. This relationship, which neither tried to hide, was scandalous and illegal at the time. In 1895 Douglas’s father sent Wilde a card addressed to “a posing somdomite”, and the author, offended, took him in court for libel. In order to prove his innocence, Douglas’ father (Lord Queensberry) had to show that Wilde was indeed gay, which he did, exposing the scandalous details of Wilde’s life, including the love letters that he had written to 50
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Douglas. The trial lead to Wilde’s arrest on charges of “gross indecency.” He was convicted on May 25, 1895 and sentenced to two years in prison. This was the beginning of the downfall for Wilde. His wife and sons moved to Germany and changed their last name to Holland to avoid the scandal, although they never divorced. Wilde emerged from prison in 1897, physically and emotionally exhausted. He went into exile in France, living in cheap hotels and friends’ apartments. There he wrote his last work, The Ballad of Reading Gaol. Wilde remained in France until his last days, and died of meningitis in Paris on November 30, 1900 at the age of 46. A sad end for one of the greatest writers of the Victorian era.
THE FILM FESTIVAL WITH NO CINEMA
OUR VILLAGE IS OUR SCREEN
25-29 MAY 2016 SCHULL, WEST CORK
www.fastnetfilmfestival.com Please join us on Facebook, Twitter & Instagram Box Office, Main Street, Schull, West Cork. Tel +353 (0)28 28600
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie